the
Cellar Door Wine a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i l le & J o n e s W i n e Co.
Issue 30 June 2018 – September 2018
SAUVIGNON BLANC
THE WORLD LEADER IN CUSTOM WINE CELLARS
24
contents Features 24 Sauvignon Blanc: Summer in a Glass Rob Stansel tells you all you need to know about the diverse styles of this truly international grape.
45
38 A World Apart Andrea Eby and Gary Hewitt tackle two very different approaches to Sauvignon Blanc in their interviews with Klaus Gasser of Cantino Terlano in Italy and James Healey of Dog Point Winery in New Zealand.
45 Backyard Pizza Party Diana Cline of Diana’s Cucina & Lounge and Chris Cabildo of Super Deluxe share their trade secrets for the perfect backyard pizza feast.
52 Spontaneous New Zealand Sylvia Jansen takes us on a tour of the sights and sounds of the North and South islands.
52
Cover: Photo by Ian McCausland
www.banvilleandjones.com 5
20
contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones
37
12 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company 20 Gluggy New Rosés Coming your Way…#roseallday
30 Gary’s Corner Cat Pee, Green Peppers, and Passionfruit
34 Behind the Label The Flight
50
37 Trending Crafty Wine
42 Banville & Jones Wine & Food Events 50 Profile Chef Sean McKay, The Mitchell Block with The Wet and Dry Department
56 Wine and Drinks College Manitoba 58
58 Sidebar To be for Not to Be…from an Appellate
60 Culinary Partners 61 Shopping List 62 Top Picks
6 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
WINNIPEG’S ONLY FASHION OUTLET
KENASTON BLVD & STERLING LYON PKWY OUTLETCOLLECTIONWINNIPEG.COM
the
Cellar Door Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com
Editorial Board Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com David Navratil david@poisepublications.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Kevin Baillie, Roger Belton, Matt Benger, Erin Crampton, Marc DeGagne, Josie Dutoit, Andrea Eby, Felton Road, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Jill Kwiatkoski, Megan Kozminski (Media Spur Inc), Steve Lagimodiere, Rebecca Lechman, Ian McCausland, Sara McDonald, Mike Muirhead, New Zealand Wine Growers, Russian River Brewing Company, Rob Stansel, te Pa Winery Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com
For advertising information, please contact lisa@poisepublications.com
In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. It is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com
8 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Printed in Canada by Transcontinental
GARDEN CENTRE
TOTAL LANDSCAPE & GARDEN MAINTENANCE SERVICES AVAILABLE CITY WIDE DELIVERY SERVICE TREES, SHRUBS, ANNUALS, PERENNIALS
Ron Paul carries a full line of Barkman Concrete items for enhancing your yard and garden. Come in and see the full line in our display.
GRAVEL AND SOILS
We carry Quality Sod, Soil and Decorative Landscape stones. They can be bagged and picked up, or we can deliver them to you.
PROUD SUPPLIER & INSTALLER OF
WE DELIVER SOD!
We are you source FOR EVERYTHING THAT GROWS in the yard.
BEDDING PLANTS | FLOWERS | TREES | SHRUBS | FERTILIZER SOIL | AGGREGATE LANDSCAPING | LAWN MAINTENANCE 204.257.2893 | 2641 St. Mary’s Road | www.rpgc.ca
Frescolio is Expertise! Michael was invited to attend the 2018 New York International Olive Oil Competition as a guest Sommelier. He is excited to share with you some of the best olive oils in the world!
frescolio.ca
fine oil + vinegar tasting bar
2-929 Corydon Ave. | 204-505-1455 5-1604 St Mary’s Rd. | 204-615-3885 Open Tuesday through Sunday
a message from tina jones TINA’S FAVES Sancerre: There is something magical about this tiny spot in France’s Loire Valley. Joseph Mellot’s Le Montarlet single-vineyard Sancerre is one of my favourites! New Zealand: When I took a brief stopover in New Zealand last winter, I was completely captivated! At home, I am drawn to Ka Tahi, whose wines are from Hawke’s Bay on the North Island and Marlborough on the South Island. They are fresh and easy to love. Italian Sauvignon Blanc: It is fascinating to me that Sauvignon Blanc has such a long history in Italy’s north. I am especially in love with Terlan Winkl, a stylish, sophisticated wine; but I also think that the Quadri Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshing, fun wine for a summer evening! Backyard Pizza: Nothing says summer like firing up the pizza oven! I can’t wait to try out the four new pizza recipes and wine pairings in this issue’s Backyard Pizza Party. (p. 45)
Welcome to the world of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines with clear style signatures that are so easy to like. In considering our theme, we realized that Sauvignon Blanc gives us the opportunity to travel the world and hold the same beautiful style in our glasses everywhere! From my own view, I will admit that I like to believe I am sophisticated enough to differentiate between the many styles of Sauvignon Blanc . . . but truthfully, I am not so sure of myself. For me, Sauvignon Blanc is almost always marked by an engaging freshness and lively acidity, but as to place of origin, I am sure I would be stumped in a blind tasting! But maybe we are missing what is important: I can easily point you toward a delicious Sauvignon Blanc that you should try! To begin to tease out the regional differences in this global grape, we have two great interviews: one with Klaus Gasser from Italian producer Cantina Terlano and one with New Zealand winemaker James Healey from Dog Point Vineyard. Rob Stansel further breaks down the range of Sauvignon Blanc with tasting profiles from around the world, and Gary Hewitt looks at the science behind Sauvignon Blanc’s more distinctive aroma qualities. To take you right to the source, Sylvia Jansen takes you on a tour of New Zealand, where Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme! My family and I visited New Zealand in 2017, and we were captivated by the incredible landscape, the outdoor adventure, and—of course—the wine! We also talked to Erin Crampton and Marc DeGagne (of Crampton’s Market), who have found New Zealand to be among their favourite destinations. Our wine experts travel the globe to bring you the best of the world's wine regions. Come in to Banville & Jones and toast to summer with a little sunshine in a glass. Cheers!
Tina Jones
10 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
INTRODUCING
CIVETTINA
A new red wine sourced from Tuscany by owner Tina Jones. Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Exclusive to Banville & Jones Wine Co.
ask a sommelier With all of these “natural” wines coming out, I’m told that some vineyards use a tremendous amount of ingredients and additives in their wines to expedite the process. What type of additives are added to wine, and is there a region of the world that uses more additives than others?
friendly neighbourhood Banville & Jones Sommelier for more suggestions that will suit your palate.
each vessel. This can be done with a variety of wine glasses as well to find the shape that works best for the wines you love to drink.
—Mike Muirhead —Saralyn Mehta Which countries limit pesticide use in vineyards?
—Karine Pelletier —Jody Wilcott-Sie Dear Karine, Dear Jody, There are many layers to this question. Wine was long believed by the consumer to be just fermented grape juice, but as with most agriculture, modern techniques have been adopted to attempt to create a more consistent and sound product. To paint any region with a wide brush on this topic would be quite unfair, because, while different regions have different regulations, more often, it comes down to the winemakers’ choices in the production of their wines. To clear up one misconception: natural wines can still use additives (sulphur consistently gets a bad rap, but is used somewhat commonly in natural wines as well as wines generally). Other wine additives often are a product of the environment in which grapes are grown, and include: yeasts, if there is not enough ambient yeast in the environment to start fermentation; tartaric acid for acidification in areas that are too hot; sugar enrichment in cooler regions; egg whites for fining; casein (milk product) to clarify—even oak is technically an additive! Not all natural wines are pure fermented grape juice, and not all “un”natural wines are adding all 200+ (!) available additives. Some wines I can recommend include The Juice Asylum Il Terzo Grado Rosso from Italy ($26.99) and Coriole Chenin Blanc from Australia ($21.99). Talk to your 12 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
With patio season here, more people will use plastic/melamine wine glasses. Is this safe? Does it change the taste of the wine? —Joseph Beck Dear Joseph, I cannot tell a lie: I spend all summer sipping rosé on my deck out of my plastic, stemless Govino wine glasses ($23.99 for a set of four glasses), so rest assured they are a safe option for the great outdoors. The most important factor to consider when choosing your glass is not what it’s made from but its shape. Using the proper glass for the wine you are drinking can shape your wine-drinking experience. The right glass can enhance the aromas and direct the wine to your palate in the optimal way. A fun experiment is to taste the same wine from several vessels. I suggest a red Solo cup, a tea cup, a tumbler, a plastic wine glass, and a proper stemmed wine glass. Pour a little of the same wine into each and taste away. Take time to notice how the nose and palate change with
All significant wine-producing countries regulate and limit pesticide use. Most belong to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development and share industry and regulatory information and research. Possibly more to the point, the Canadian Food and Drug Act stipulates that “all domestic and imported food must be free of harmful pesticide residues.” The key term here is “harmful,” which means that there are acceptable levels below threshold limits. Generally, testing is random with a notable exception being the LCBO, which tests every wine submitted for sale. Wine, like most foods, commonly contains detectible if not measurable amounts of pesticides. Although pesticide levels were a concern in the recent past, the LCBO states that harmful levels of pesticides are now rarely found. Wines made from organic grapes or from dry climates often contain lower levels of pesticide residue, but there is no guarantee that there will be none. —Gary Hewitt
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER @BANVILLEJONES.
YOU
innovation.
our experience.
Your Fillmore Riley. Drive your future forward by putting your innovation and our experience to work.
fillmoreriley.com Fillmore Riley LLP Lawyers and Trademark Agents
I NNO VAT IO N. INDEPENDENCE. INT EGRIT Y. We K now BEN E FI TS ™ GRO UP B E N E FI T S
G R O U P RE TIRE M E N T
IN D IV ID UAL IN S URAN CE
For more than 30 years, Belton Boisselle have been working with some of Western Canada’s most successful employers to maximize the value of their group employee benefit and retirement programs. With simple, effective communication, we develop innovative plans, build in transparency and adapt our services to your company’s own unique culture. Contact Kasey Boisselle or Roger Belton to book a confidential review of your plans. 1620 – 155 Carlton Street, Winnipeg, MB R3C 3H8 Phone: 204.956.9860
WWW.BELTONBOISSELLE.COM
2 N D F L O O R C I T Y P L A C E , 2 3 3 H A R G R AV E S T.
VISIT WINNIPEG’S ONLY
DOWNTOWN GAMING CENTRE
FEATURING ROULETTE, BLACKJACK, DOUBLE DECK AND THREE CARD POKER plus 140 SLOT MACHINES
VIBRANT LIFESTYLE, SPECTACULAR VIEWS
When you own a home at 390 Assiniboine, you’re surrounded by the best of urban living: Panoramic river views. Endless dining and entertainment choices. The beauty of the Assiniboine River Walk, just steps from your door.
STARTING AT $357,000* PLUS GST
* Includes heated indoor parking
Inside, you’ll enjoy the sophisticated design, expansive riverside entertainment area and sunny fitness studio. Even the parkade has a river view! MOVE IN THIS FALL The first condominiums will be available by early September 2018. Visit our website to explore the wide range of floor plans available.
390 A S SINIBOINE UP SC ALE LIVING | DOWNTOWN
Frank Cianflone
Claude Davis / Geoff Davis
Royal LePage Dynamic Real Estate
Royal LePage Dynamic Real Estate - Claude Davis
CALL OUR SALES CENTRE 204-510-5717
•
390ontheriver.com
banville & jones and company
1
2
4 3
A proud moment as Tina Jones receives the University of Manitoba Distinguished Alumni Award.
6
5
7
8
Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Joyce Luke, Shelly Ferec-LeGall, Collin LeGall, Dale Lepla; 2. Jason and Tiffany Pankratz, Kristine and Jason Greenwood; 3. Sheila and Sylvio Pittumbur; 4. Rob Stansel, Mike Muirhead, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Todd Antonation; 5. The Lushaws and Sages catch Game 7 at 2 AM in Mallorca Spain on a Gold Medal Plates trip; 6. Bernie Marcoux, Rosanne Marcoux, and Michael Yan; 7. Keith and Alex McDonald; 8. Rod and Linda Orchard.
16 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
10
11
12
14
13
Congratulations to Doug Stephen, who was honoured with the Winnipeg Nightlife Awards Lifetime Achievement Award. Years of hard work, great concepts, and a goal to Wow! all of his guest led to this distinguished award. The jewel in his crown, 529 Wellington, also took top honours the Best Restaurant of the Year.
16
15
17
Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 10. Anna Everett, Saralyn Mehta, and Matt Benger in San Gimignano,Italy; 11. Tina Jones, Paul Albrechtsen, and Jonathon Lyon; 12. Josie Dutoit, Jill Kwiatkoski, and Renée Vincent at Tolaini Estates in Tuscany; 13. Andrew and Krista Koop, Charlie and Dayna Spiring, Mike and Tina Jones, Todd and Lacy Degelman in Napa Valley; 14. Doug Stephen with his Winnipeg Nightlife Lifetime Achievement Award; 15. Francesco Rosi, Winery Manager/Head Enologist, Tolaini Estate, Tuscany; 16. Doug Danylchuk, Chris Frederickson, MaryAnn Tsai, Tina Jones, Tammy Woodall, Larry Tsai, Robert Woodall, Mike Jones, Janine Thomson, Verna Danylchuk, in Napa Valley celebrating Moone Tsai wines; 17. Paola Bianchi, Alex Allardyce, Chiara Biondo, Rebecca Lechman, and Rick Watkins at Tua Rita Winery, Italy.
www.banvilleandjones.com 17
WE DELIVER WINE TO YOUR DOOR! • FREE DELIVERY within city limits for orders over $200 (before taxes) • Delivery charge for orders under $200 is only $12 • SAME DAY DELIVERY if you order before 11 am*
Four ways to order: Text our Sommeliers at 204.400.0499 Order online at Cornervine: banvilleandjones.cornervine.com Call your favourite wine expert at 204.948.9463 Email us at wine@banvilleandjones.com
*Same day delivery applies to most orders.
1616 St Mary’s Rd | www.banvilleandjones.com
briggs-riley.com
e n g i n e e r e d f o r r e a l i t y . g u a r a n t e e d f o r l i f e .™
DAD OR GRAD?
CHAMPAGNE VINEYARDS, MONTAGNE DE REIMS, FRANCE
WHAT INSPIRES US? Taking summer travels to new heights. The Transcend ® collection. Featuring customizable VX ™ expansion.
Transcend’s innovative variable expansion provides up to 39% more capacity –
Transcend’s innovative variable expansion provides up to 39% more capacity – perfect for over-packers and souvenir seekers alike. perfect for over-packers and souvenir seekers alike.
175 mcdermot ave. · 943.1068 · www.unluggage.com
gluggy By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier
New Rosés Coming Your Way... #roseallday! In anticipation of our beautiful Manitoba summer, I ask: what better way is there to enjoy that hot weather on your deck or at the beach (or really, anywhere) than with a bottle of beautiful rosé? Rosés are made when winemakers keep the grape skins of red or black grape varieties in contact with the juice for a short amount of time (between 8 hours and one week) rather than the weeks or months it takes to make a deep red wine. Rosés are perfect for a red wine lover who wants to have something lighter in the hot summer weather, or for the white wine lover who wants to try something with more body that is still crisp and refreshing. Rosé truly is the best of both worlds. This summer, Banville & Jones has some new, amazing rosés that we are excited to see you fall in love with!
harmoniously. It pairs beautifully with spicy foods, grilled pork, cured meats, firm cheeses, and saucy BBQ.
Chantovent 2017 Bistro Signature Rosé Languedoc Roussillon, France ($19.99; 1000 mL)
te Pa 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé Marlborough, New Zealand ($21.99)
That’s right folks: it’s a 1-litre bottle of rosé! Made with 100% Gris Blanc from Southern France, this 1-litre bottle not only supplies more of this beautiful wine, but it comes in environmentally friendly packaging. Made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), this bottle is 100% recyclable—the cap too. (And guess what... there is a 1-litre Sauvignon Blanc coming in as well!) Look out summer, here we come!
This unique beauty queen shines brightly on the shelf. Our only rosé from New Zealand tastes like summer in a glass. Beautiful notes of raspberry, cranberry, and pomegranate linger on your palate; it finishes dry with a slight hint of spice. Just like the majestic Maori fish hook symbol that adorns the labels, this rosé is part of the te Pa family’s amazing 800-year history on their land.
Menhir 2017 Novementi Rosato Salento, Italy ($18.99)
Union Wine Co. 2017 Underwood Rosé Oregon, United States ($11.99/375mL; $21.99/750mL)
This rosato (rosé in Italian) is as vibrant on the palate as it is in the bottle. From the heel of the boot in the heart of Puglia, Italy, this rosato is made from 100% Negroamaro and has vibrant notes of wild strawberry and tart rhubarb that dance on your palate
Another cool size in the rosé department this year, Union Wine brings us the absolute best half bottle option: wine in a can! And you can’t beat its quality: notes of strawberry, pink grapefruit, and watermelon adorn your palate with vibrant acidity and a dry finish. Union Wine’s
20 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
motto, “It’s hard to keep your pinky up when you’re drinking wine from a can,” promotes fun all summer long. For goodness sake, you can’t be too pretentious to turn down wine from a can. #pinkiesdown Bacalhôa 2017 JP Azeitão Syrah Rosé Setubal, Portugal ($13.99) Browse the Portuguese section of the store and you will come across JP, a pretty pale pink rosé from Bacalhôa. Fresh, lively, and fun—it’s almost as if they are describing someone we all know! With notes of raspberries, rhubarb, cherries, and a hint of wild flowers and minerality, this rosé is a perfect pairing for some grilled shrimp, grilled fish or chicken, vegetable salads, appetizers—or just to sip by itself on a warm summer day. Enjoy rosé season! À votre santé! Salute! Cin Cin! Cheers! Saúde! And from my family to yours... Nazdrowia!
SUMMER SPARKLES Summer celebrations would not be complete without bubbles, and pink bubbles are a special treat! Our Sparkling Wine Wall at Banville & Jones features sparkling wine and Champagne that we have sourced from around the world—something for every palate and budget. Here are our pink summer sparkler recommendations: Caves de Lugny nv Brut Rosé Cremant de Bourgogne, France ($23.99) Ca Maiol nv Sebastian Brut Rosé Lombardy, Italy ($19.99) Zinck nv Brut Rosé Cremant d’Alsace, France ($29.99) Reassi nv Rosato Vino Frizzante Veneto, Italy ($17.99) Alta Alella nv Mirgin Laieta Cava Rosé Penedes, Spain ($44.99)
Insure wisely. Insure wisely. Insure wisely. ® Personal ® Personal ® Personal Chubb Masterpiece Insurance offers Chubb Masterpiece Insurance offers Chubb Masterpiece Insurance offers industry-leading customer experience and smart industry-leading customer experience and industry-leading customer experience and smart smart policies tailored to our clients’ individual needs. policies tailored to our clients’ individual needs. policies tailored to our clients’ individual needs. to know us better | chubbinsurance.com tous know us |better | chubbinsurance.com GetGet to Get know better chubbinsurance.com
J.M.Johnson Insurance been helping J.M.Johnson Insurance has been helping J.M.Johnson Insurance has has been helping Manitobans protect their homes since 1950. Manitobans protect their homes since 1950. Manitobans protect their homes since 1950. Family owned & operated. Family owned & operated. Family owned & operated. Contact Grant Johnson: Contact Grant Johnson: Contact Grant Johnson: (204) 489-1555 (204) 489-1555 (204) 489-1555 Free: (800) 876-9698 Toll Free: (800) 876-9698 Toll Toll Free: (800) 876-9698 1885 Grant Avenue 1885 Grant Avenue 1885 Grant Avenue (Corner of Grant & Kenaston) (Corner of&Grant & Kenaston) (Corner of Grant Kenaston)
TM TM TM Chubb Creates Certainty. Chubb Creates Certainty. Chubb Creates Certainty.
refers to member insurers theofChubb Group of Insurance Companies. Chubb refers to member the Chubb Group of Companies. Insurance Companies. ChubbChubb refers to member insurers of insurers the of Chubb Group of Insurance
Bank Trust Wealth Management
Finally, a mortgage rate as comfortable as your home.
2.94%
*
5-Year Fixed Rate *Promotional rate. Eligibility criteria and other conditions apply. See cwbank.com or your branch for details.
Canadian Western Bank (CWB) offers competitive rates and personal service that you won’t find anywhere else. No voice mail, line-ups, or hassle, just prompt service with a smile. We are pleased to offer you this special mortgage rate: • 2.94%* Five year fixed-rate mortgage With a full range of investment options, loans and mortgages available, our team of experts will work closely with you to understand your needs and help you achieve your financial goals. Drop by our Winnipeg Kenaston branch to take advantage of this offer, meet our staff and learn how we work hard to be efficient, down-to-earth and responsive in everything we do.
Carmen Dignazio, Account Manager, Retail Banking Winnipeg Kenaston t. 204.928-8509 | f. 855.341.7300 e. carmen.dignazio@cwbank.com
A CWB Financial Group company
cwbank.com
Canada’s Un-Bank The most successful new retail investment firm in Canadian history.
Charlie Spiring, ICD.D Founder & Chairman
Find out how we’re different. 204.925.2274
www.wellington-altus.ca
© Wellington-Altus Private Wealth 2018 Member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund.
Sauvignon Blanc: Summer in a Glass By Rob Stansel, Sommelier One of the most widely planted in the world, the vines that bear the green-skinned Sauvignon Blanc grape can be found in every major wine-producing country. Rooted in a variety of soils, thriving in a variety of climates, Sauvignon Blanc is a late-budding, early ripening grape best known for its pungent, herbaceous aromatics and refreshing, pronounced fruit flavours. Summer in a glass, basically.
24 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
CLASSIC STYLES YOU CAN EXPECT: chalk / flint / lime / green apple / hay / nettle / elegant / mineral / herbaceous
Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé: These chalky, flinty, limestone-rich soils are perhaps the most famous appellations, and produce wines with pronounced acidity, minerality, and elegance. Try: Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Montarlet Sancerre, France ($33.99) Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Tronsec Pouilly-Fumé, France ($29.99) Bordeaux: SB livens up its weighty pal, Semillon, to produce age-worthy, complex white blends, many of which are barrelfermented. Other chateaux prefer to mimic the New World, bottling SB all on its own, in a fresh, crisp style, sometimes blended with the even more rare Sauvignon Gris! Try: Cailleteau Bergeron 2016 Tradition Sauvignon Blanc Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux, France ($15.99) Sauternes: Foggy, humid vineyards home to an SB grape that has shrivelled up and turned grey on the vine. Botrytis, or “noble rot,” results in perhaps the most iconic dessert wine in the world. Try: Chateau Guiraud 2011 Sauternes ($85.99/375 ml) Alto Adige, Italy: Where the grape is often simply labelled Sauvignon, it thrives in the high-altitude, cool-climate north, producing wines of vibrant acidity and aromatic complexity. Try: Terlan 2016 Winkl Sauvignon Alto Adige DOC, Italy ($34.99) Terlan 2015 Quarz Sauvignon Alto Adige DOC, Italy ($69.99)
Did you know... There are 275,000+ acres of Sauvignon Blanc vines worldwide. Pinot Grigio? A pitiful 70,000+. At some point in the 18th century, probably at a fancy ballroom party in a big castle, SB met Cabernet Franc and lovingly begat our good pal Cabernet Sauvignon.
www.banvilleandjones.com 25
KIWI STYLE YOU CAN EXPECT: grass / grapefruit / gooseberry / cat pee / bell pepper / jalapeno / juicy / pungent / citrusy
SB was first planted in New Zealand in 1973, when a hectare of land in Marlborough could be purchased for about $1,100. In 2018, that same hectare might set you back over $200,000. Sorry, Millennials, no land for you. New Zealand’s SB hit the global scene in the 1990s, challenging Old World domination of the grape. Marlborough: The mothership, producing 70% or more of NZ’s crop, and 90% of its SB. Try: Invivo 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley Marlborough ($18.99), Yealands 2017 Land Made Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($19.99), Dog Point 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($36.99) Hawke’s Bay: Warmer and tends to produce a slightly richer, riper style. Expect ripe melon, nectarine, and passionfruit flavours, often with a bit more sweetness than the South Island SBs. Try: Matua 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay ($18.99) Eco-conscious and experimental: A new generation of young winemakers is using Indigenous yeast, biodynamic farming, extended skin contact, and oxidative ferments for wines wildly different than the typical Marlborough style. Try: Supernatural Wine Co. 2014 Green Glow Skin Fermented Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke’s Bay ($31.99)
Did you know... Although we know the grape as a single-varietal wine, thanks in large part to New Zealand, this is a very recent phenomenon. Even the Kiwis had no idea how important the grape would be—the first plantings in the 1970s were intended to produce fruit for blending with everyone’s favourite white grape, Muller Thurgau. The logic of blending SB goes back to its roots in Bordeaux, where it was—and still is— used to brighten up its partner Semillon.
CALI STYLE YOU CAN EXPECT: melon / white peach / guava / smoke / toast / white flower / round / warm / fruity
The first SB vines planted in California, in the 1880s, were cuttings taken from the famous Château d’Yquem, in Sauternes, France. Border security wasn’t so on the ball back then. The Mondavi movement: By the 1960s, SB’s reputation in America was no good—it was sickly sweet, or bitterly vegetal, or some horrible combination of both. Robert Mondavi changed all of that by creating a dry, barrelaged SB that, taking a cue from the famous French appellation, he dubbed “Fumé Blanc.” Try: Ferrari-Carano 2016 Fumé Blanc Sonoma County ($29.99) The Valley: Napa and Sonoma growers who forewent the fumé marketing trend made SBs in a fresh, mineral-tinted, fruit-forward style, without the woody window dressing, often more full-bodied than their Kiwi cousins. Try: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2016 Aveta Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($44.99)
Did you know... Always keep us guessing, SB: Worldwide, Sauvignon Blanc has over 70 place names and aliases, but the most common you will see are Sancerre, PouillyFumé, Sauternes, and Fumé Blanc.
www.banvilleandjones.com 27
A DIFFERENT TWIST ON SB Easy-Drinkers: If taste descriptors such as cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush and vegetal inspire fear and trepidation, then begin your exploration of Sauvignon Blanc here. Wines in this category tend to have a softer flavour profile and they are not hard on the pocketbook either! As a budget- and palate-friendly introduction to Sauvignon Blanc, these examples are the perfect pick for warm summer nights and thirsty friends. TRY: Juno 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape, South Africa ($15.99)
Imitation & Innovation: Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. These Sauvignon Blancs are crafted to remind the wine lover of the archetype examples of the Loire and Marlborough. They hint at the classics while incorporating their own innovations, just to keep things interesting! Think cool, crisp, and mineral with a healthy helping of sexy Sauv Blanc flavours. TRY: Ventisquero 2016 Kalfu Kuda Leyda Valley, Chile ($22.99)
Smoke & Barrels: It’s not all smoke and barrels, but fumés tend to show a subtle incorporation of lees and toasty oak notes. These wines have all the poise and perfection of a classic Sauvignon Blanc but tend to the richer, rounder side of things, thanks to the time that they have spent mellowing out in oak barrels. If you haven’t tried this expression of Sauvignon Blanc before, you are missing out! TRY: Alpha Estate Sauvignon 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Florina, Greece ($33.99)
N OW S E RVI N G 20 FINE WINES C U R AT E D B Y VÉR O N I Q U E R IVE ST TO P F E M A L E S O M M E L I E R I N TH E W O R L D
C O M E S E E WHAT WE’R E PO U R I N G
FIND US IN THE FOOD HALL AT TH E FO R KS MAR KET
Celebrate Summer with New Arrivals. Walker Bay, Hermanus, South Africa.
Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens first visited South Africa in 1996. Thus began a love of the South African people, culture, and their eminently drinkable wines! They formed Blend Imports and return each year to explore South Africa’s boutique and family-focused wineries, bringing the most
blendimports.com
No one dreams of drinking an average bottle of wine.
interesting and affordable wines back to Manitoba to share with you.
Clarington Chenin Blanc $17.99
Clarington Merlot $17.99
Alheit Flotsam & Jetsam Chenin $25.99
Alheit Flotsam & Jetsam Cinsault $25.99
Keermont Terasse White Blend $29.99
Thorne & Daughters Paper Kite Old Vine Semillon $39.99
Photo by Ian McCausland
gary’s corner By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier
CAT PEE, GREEN PEPPERS, AND PASSIONFRUIT (PYRAZINES AND THIOLS) In the 1980s, there was a movie, the name of which I have long forgotten, with a reception scene in which one of the main characters discards a glass of wine on a passing server’s tray with a disparaging “tastes like cat piss.” I nudged my theatre-going friend and whispered excitedly “that’s Sauvignon Blanc!”—not that they cared. But I did. The movie comment was a cultural reference to California’s early struggles with a grape variety of strong, distinct character. Truly, the wines smelled of cat pee or litter box. The compounds that give rise to these off-putting smells, collectively known as pyrazines, are inherent in grapes, especially those of the Bordeaux “family” that include Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Carménère. At low levels, pyrazines impart pleasant grass and herb characteristics, but at high levels they can dominate wines with off-putting pungent green pepper, green bean, or cooked asparagus aromas. Less tolerant tasters consider any level of pyrazine to indicate a lack of ripeness in the grapes. This misconception clouds an appreciation of fully ripe wines containing pyrazines that create a distinct and desirable varietal character. Quite simply, without pyrazines, wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, 30 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
To distinguish his Sauvignon Blanc from the predominant litter-box style of the day, Mondavi called his wine Fumé Blanc in a direct reference to the less ripe, fresher, smoky style of the Loire Valley (in particular, the Pouilly-Fumé appellation). and Carménère, in particular, would blend into a sea of less distinct wines. Balance is key, and the key to balance lies in the vineyard. Vines grown under cool conditions with a lot of vegetative growth that shades ripening fruit produce high levels of pyrazines. This knowledge was revealed by viticulturalists in the late 20th century. Grape growers have since learned to modulate pyrazine levels in the vineyard according to the style of wine they want to produce. To minimize pyrazine levels, remove excessive shoots and leaves to expose ripening grapes to more sunlight. To create intermediate pyrazine levels, keep some grapes in the shade. This is a great example of how wine style relates to grape growing and reveals the wisdom of the older European term of wine growing. Despite enormous improvements in the character of wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, “cat pee” persists as a tasting term. Today’s new wine drinkers seem blissfully unaware of the relative tameness of modern wines. Perhaps some tasters like this facile touchstone for the identification of Sauvignon Blanc, or of green pepper for Cabernet Franc and Carménère. Sadly, these associations may actually decrease enjoyment of the wines. Any of a profusion of positive associations might improve the tasting: next time you taste one of the Bordeaux varieties, look for fresh peas, elderflower, fresh cut grass, tomato leaf, nettles, olive, dried sage, or oregano.
But Sauvignon Blanc is more than just these “green” flavours. What about all the lovely flavours of grapefruit, passionfruit, and guava? Where do they come from? The answer is: from another group of flavour compounds called thiols. Thiols are sulfurcontaining compounds formed by yeast from grape-derived precursors during and after fermentation. At low levels, thiols impart fruity blackcurrant, grapefruit, and smoky gun flint character. High levels are betrayed by flavours of cooked onions, garlic, and cauliflower! During winemaking, elevated thiol levels are commonly removed by exposing wine to air. But most Sauvignon Blanc wines are kept fresh by minimizing air exposure. Unlike pyrazines, which are determined by vineyard practices, thiol presence depends upon deft winemaking. Overall, a great Sauvignon Blanc results from the alignment of smart viticulture and smart winemaking. Many varietal wines contain pyrazines and thiols, but none so dramatically illustrate their impact as does a fresh and racy Sauvignon Blanc, unobscured by oak, with beautiful, transparent, and balanced green and fruit flavours. Look to the bold wines of New Zealand or the leaner herbaceous wines of the Central Loire. Be bold too and embrace their intensity—just beware of those best relegated to the litter box.
GOLD Winner SPRING PARADE OF HOMES
ENJOY ALL THE AMENITIES YOU NEED,
IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD YOU LOVE
Neighbouring Park West’s amenities and echoing Charleswood’s natural Neighbouring Park West’s and echoing Charleswood’s landscape, The Charles is anamenities apartment-style condominium development that natural landscape, The Charles is an apartment-style condominium plants you right in the neighbourhood you love, offering all contemporary development that plants you right in the neighbourhood you love, comforts, plus some extras. offering all contemporary comforts, plus some extras. Heated, anan exercise room andand lounge, and private Heated,underground undergroundparking, parking, exercise room lounge, common make greeneveryday space and private balconies everyday livingyou easier balconies living easier and moremake enjoyable - allowing to and more enjoyable – allowing you to really savour your surroundings. really savour your surroundings. FROM UNDER $200,000 INCL. GSTGST 11 & & 22BEDROOMS BEDROOMSSTARTING STARTING FROM UNDER $200,000 INCL
JENNIFER GULAY & ELLIOT DIDOMENICANTONIO 204.794.9464 & 204.990.2516 Royal LePage Alliance charles@qualico.com • thecharlescondo.ca
Summer Summer
WOW!
with
This summer, get out of the office and into a chair at one of WOW! Hospitality’s beautiful patios. From a decedant decadent river setting at 529 Wellington, to a courtside seat for all the action in The Exchange, or The Forks, we want you to come for the patio and stay for the food.
italian chophouse it alian chophous e
(204) 487-8325
(204) 938-2226
(204) 947-6653
(204) 989-7700
(204) 896-7275
Planning a backyard BBQ, wedding ceremony, or family get together? Let us take care of your next event! Call WOW! Catering.
(204) 284-7275
(204) 226-2018
(204) 947-5194
behind the label: Heron Ridge By Matt Benger
Heron Ridge sits at the foot of Helderberg Mountain (photo courtesy of Heron Ridge Wines); Heron Ridge 2014 The Flight Stellenbosch, South Africa $20.99
It is no secret that South African wine has had to struggle to get to where it is. Political changes, economic sanctions—even war—have made it difficult for South African wines to reach international markets. It is only since the global markets re-opened to South Africa that it has started really competing with the wine juggernauts of Europe. When global sanctions against the country lifted with the repeal of Apartheid, winemakers were able to learn wine techniques from internationally recognized producers and bring the latest technologies back to South Africa. This gave South African wine the boost in quality and production it needed. Heron Ridge is one of those wineries that has greatly benefited from the collaboration of winemakers and producers around the world.
small cellar was built, and the first vintage was released in 2001. The farm was the perfect size for one person to be able to grow the grapes and make the wine.
Nestled on a small farm in Stellenbosch, Heron Ridge is exactly what you look for in a winery. It is small, family run, and part of a close-knit community of winemakers and producers known for their red wines. In 1997, Jane and Pete Orpen decided to move their family from urban Cape Town to the country. When they settled on their farm at the base of Helderberg Mountain, Pete started growing Chenin Blanc and Cinsault grapes for a wine cooperative, which gave him time to learn how to grow, manage, and operate the farm.
In 2005, the year before Pete passed away, they named the vintage The Pete Orpen Flight. Every vintage since then has been a tribute to Pete and the dream he built. The Flight is traditionally a Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend, with one exception: the 2012 vintage was a Shiraz and Petit Verdot blend, because Pippa was not entirely happy with the quality of the Cabernet that year. The current vintage, 2014, is a lovely full-bodied wine with notes of red cherry and a hint of spice. It’s big and robust up front with a long, delicate finish.
One year, Pete decided to make a barrel of Chenin Blanc. While the family admits that “the wine itself wasn’t the definition of an award-winning wine,” what resulted was life changing. Pete became a winemaker and replanted the vineyard with Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2000, a 34 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
While raising vines, Jane and Pete also raised their three children, Pippa, Tom, and Harry. Pippa quickly took to winemaking, learning everything she could from her father. In 2006, Pete passed away, leaving Jane and Pippa in charge of the winery. Pippa split her time between South Africa and France, learning valuable lessons from the masters of the trade. Then, in 2014, Pippa’s life took a left turn when she decided to pursue a career monitoring endangered African wild dogs. Harry, Pippa’s brother, took over operations after finishing his schooling in viticulture and oenology.
The care that goes into each vintage of The Flight reflects Pete’s—and his family’s—patient dedication to quality: every bottle is hand crafted from the grape to the final glass on your table.
Showroom: 969 Fife Street, Winnipeg 204.586.2794 I www.yarrow.mb.ca
Whether your project is a renovation, addition, or a new home, our window and door experts are here to collaborate with you from concept to completion.
www.loewen.com
www.rockymountainhardware.com
• Metal Clad Wood Windows • Metal Clad Wood Doors • Timber Curtain Wall • Architectural Hardware • Professional Installation
www.karcher-design.com
Available from May long weekend through September long weekend. Red Case: $129.99 for 12 dry reds (four different wines; three bottles of each) White Case: $129.99 for 12 dry whites (four different wines; three bottles of each) Rosé Case: $84.99 for 6 dry rosés (three different wines; two bottles of each) Mixed Case: $169.99 for a baker’s dozen (two different whites, two bottles of each; three different reds, two bottles of each; one type of rosé, two bottles; and one special red hand-picked by our Sommeliers) Save up to $25 per case!
Four ways to order: online, by phone, by email, or text us at 204.400.0499
trending By Rob Stansel, Sommelier (CAPS)
Crafty Wine The wine industry in America is learning from its upstart sister industry—craft beer—and consumers, especially Millennials, are cool with it. It was a sunny Sunday morning in Santa Rosa, California. At quarter to eleven, we were in a line that was beginning to stretch down the block. It was time to go to church. Beer church. A brewery was about to open its doors to a flock of pilgrims who had travelled from far and wide to taste some of the finest craft beer in the world, in the heart of wine country. Devout and faithful craft beer nerd that I am, tap rooms are not to be missed wherever I happen to be travelling. But our experience at Russian River Brewing Co. that day was profoundly different. We didn’t get a flight board and a flatbread and move on. We ordered a bottle from the cellar. It had been aged five years, in bottle, after spending a year in barrels—sourced from a winery down the road— that once contained Chardonnay. The bottle was opened tableside, served to us in wine glasses, and the last bits were poured out carefully—there was sediment, you see. It was “sour,” which is craft speak for mouth-watering. It tasted like the best blanc de blancs. I wasn’t shocked to learn that the brewer used to make wine. Craft beer is booming. Despite fears of a ready-to-burst “craft beer bubble” in America—fuelled by speculation about how saturated the market has become—the industry continues to move forward, one dry-hopped, barrel-aged milkshake IPA at a time. Canada is catching up too. In the span of two years, the number of Manitoba-owned and operated breweries has gone from one to nearly 10. By the time this hits your mailbox, another may have opened its doors. There’s a lot of noise—and wine is starting to listen. Far from perceiving each other as threats, craft beer and the wine world are entering into a friendly, mutually beneficial dialogue. The discourse hinges on a demographic shift. Millennials, it seems, are drinking #allthedrinks, and their palates are gravitating not only to value but also to
Photo courtesy of Russian River Brewing Company
authenticity. Craft and wine share a common ground here: a concern about the ecological and economic impacts of what we drink, and attention paid to the idea of place. Yes, beer is now talking about terroir. It’s been happening in California, not surprisingly, for quite some time. It was palpable that day in Santa Rosa: wine was elevating the craft experience. Now, craft is beginning to de-formalize wine. So how exactly is wine adopting the strategies and ethos of craft? Craft, in its short lifespan, has gotten very good at marketing. It knows how to preach, and how to proselytize. Clever label design, sure, but packaging with both convenience and carbon footprint in mind, especially. More rosé in a can? It’s coming. Canned wine sales are skyrocketing in the U.S. Wine is learning from craft that the when and where of drinking is changing, and that not only are aluminum cans more environmentally friendly and resistant to oxygen and UV light—enemies of both beer and wine—they chill quickly and fit snuggly in a cooler bound for the beach. Craft, in turn, is appropriating wine’s long history of learning and its connection to the kitchen: beer and food pairing is everywhere now, spurred on by industry-leading figures such as Brooklyn Brewery’s head brewmaster, Garrett Oliver, who not only wrote an entire book about the idea, but found time between hop additions to edit the Oxford Companion to Beer. No big deal. Craft drinkers are passionate and loyal, but more importantly for wine, they are curious. One day a hop head downing the most in-your-face IPAs, the craft drinker will inevitably turn to barrel-aged stouts, then to Belgian-style sours, the funkier the better. And once that acid hits their uvula, it’s game over: pass the Riesling, bro. Converted.
www.banvilleandjones.com 37
A WORLD APART Two interviews by Andrea Eby, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier and Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Sauvignon Blanc is a truly international grape that finds unique expressions through regional soils, vines, climate and the viticultural philosophies of its winemakers. Andrea
Eby and Gary Hewitt sat down with two wineries whose approaches—and expressions—of Sauvignon Blanc show the range of this international grape.
Andrea Eby (AE): Can you tell me a bit about the region where you grow Sauvignon Blanc? Klaus Gasser (KG): Terlan is both the name of the winery and the name of the historic appellation, well known for its high-quality Sauvignon Blanc. The grape was first used as part of the Terlano blend in 1893. Sauvignon Blanc was first planted in our vineyards around 1850. From these original plantings Terlan has taken many cuttings and now 50% of our Sauvignon Blanc is comprised of regional Terlano clones.
OLD WORLD: Klaus Gasser, Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige, Italy Klaus Gasser is head of the marketing department of the world famous Cantina Terlano and helps to manage its over 140 growers, who farm more than 400 acres in one of Italy’s most extreme viticultural areas. Famous for their highly regarded white wines, Terlano has developed an international reputation for its distinctive interpretation of the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
38 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
The first single variety Sauvignon Blanc that we bottled was 1957. We then started to make Sauvignon Blanc 100%. Generally, we look for older vineyards. In other regions of the world, when Sauvignon Blanc vineyards get older, you start to lose a lot of overtly fruity flavours in the wines. If that is the style a producer is going for, then you are often forced to replant after only 10 or 11 years. But we prefer to make another style of Sauvignon Blanc. When you get close to 20-year-old vines, the wines become deeply mineral with a more complex and interesting texture. You have a different finish, a different deepness. Terlano produces two types of Sauvignon Blanc. We have Winkl, where we make use of our younger vines, and Quarz, produced from our oldest vines. In the Quarz, we look only for texture and deepness. We don't care so much about the flavours. Quarz is created to age for 20 to 30 years. Our vinification is designed to highlight texture and complexity, not fruity flavours. Our Sauvignon Blancs see a lot of time in contact with the yeasts and a lot of batonnage. With this type of winemaking, in the beginning, you’re losing a lot of flavours. Because these techniques encourage the wines to develop slowly, in a slightly reductive way, you need bottle aging. After a year or two in bottle, the wines emerge perfectly. We also believe that you need cork to age.
As a result, in our wines, you will find a different context for Sauvignon Blanc. In this appellation and for us, it’s one of our icon wines. In the past, we had a lot of problems explaining our philosophy—even in the Italian market. Our wines have always been very traditional, not buttery, not full of vanilla flavours. In the 1990s, this was the big boom here: everyone looked only for big, big flavours. But this changed in the middle of the 2000s. We have a strong identity. We haven’t changed our style, but the focus of the journalists has changed.
need to understand that these people are living at 600–700 metres, in the middle of nowhere with their families; the vineyards are so steep, and the people do everything by hand. When you give a grower good money, these people stay there, keeping up the tradition. They have enough money to survive, to have a good life, and so we can keep the whole system going in this area. Wine making is also thinking of the future. When you plant a vineyard, you plant it for the next generation. When you want to keep the tradition—and we have a long tradition—you need to go in maybe a different way, not only focus on the economic side of the business.
AE: With the younger vines, are you going after more of a fruit-forward, grassy, herbaceous style, or are you trying to make it always reflect Terlan? KG: No, our concept is always to make long-aging white wines, so we manage Sauvignon Blanc in many ways, including when we pick the grapes. Generally, when you pick it a little bit earlier, you have wines with a little bit more of the green flavours. When you look for a perfect physiologic ripeness, you have a little bit less of these strong green flavours, and you have also a better balance in the mouth-feel of the wine. We don't like overripeness; we want to have deeper flavours yet still maintain crisp acidity. AE: What are your favourite food pairings with your Sauvignon Blanc? KG: Sauvignon Blanc generally is not so easy for food pairings, especially when you have very green flavours. But our Sauvignon Blancs have four or five years of bottle aging, and the strong flavours are better balanced. With the younger Sauvignon Blancs, I look for dishes such as lamb and herbs, green asparagus or some vegetables. However, you can drink Quarz with a steak. The structure is there. You need food that is strong enough to balance the structure of this wine. AE: How difficult is it to manage so many growers at Terlan? What are your biggest challenges? KG: We thank God that we have this terroir. The terroir influenced everything in the past. You can’t have high yields, the terroir is too extreme—that’s just a natural thing here. And that’s the reason why we also have today fantastic vintages in the cellar from the 50s and 60s, despite the fact that the rest of Italy was focused on quantity over quality at that time. The growers trust us. We are committed to paying a lot of money in order to keep these guys in the mountains. You
NEW WORLD: James Healy, Dog Point Vineyard, Marlbourough, New Zealand James Healy fuelled the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc revolution during his early career at Cloudy Bay Vineyards, the first New Zealand winery to storm onto the international scene. In 2002, he, his wife Wendy and long-term business partners Ivan and Margaret Sutherland opened Dog Point Vineyards. Their intense, nervy, poised wines continue to push quality levels and are in the vanguard of wines defining sub-regional styles.
www.banvilleandjones.com 39
Gary Hewitt (GH): What can you tell us about the early days for Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand? James Healy (JH:) Sauvignon Blanc cuttings were imported and first produced in Auckland, by a winery called Mandurah Valley. In the early 1970s, Marlborough was first planted. I think the first actual Sauvignon Blanc in a bottle in Marlborough was 1979. GH: When did you know that you had a winner on your hands in Sauvignon Blanc? JH: Early in my career, and early in my love of wine, the company that I worked for had extensive vineyards down here in Marlborough. We were getting Sauvignon Blanc picked and then brought north—we didn't have a winery down here in those days. I just could not believe the intensity of the flavour of the Sauvignon Blanc. It was inspirational. It was really what made me and my wife want to move down to Marlborough. Like with any grape, I put it down to the soil and climate combination. The very free-draining soil [of Marlborough in general] tends to give you that very pungent, tropical, passionfruity character. Here where Dog Point is, in the southern valleys, it’s a silty, clay soil. You do get an element of that but you also get a citrusy influence: limey, grapefruity, lemony. GH: Marlborough’s still a very young region. How do you see it evolving? JH: It's an incredibly young region. We’re amazed at where this place has come to in such a short time. After it initially started to catch on, probably 1981–82, it took about 10–12 years to become established as a recognizable style. That style became reputably known. It’s amazing, honestly, when you live here and you’re part of it. Sometimes, you just sit there and you think, “My god.”
One of the primary things for Ivan and I, when producing Sauvignon Blanc, is to extract the juice in a more delicate way. At Dog Point we hand pick, which is unusual for local wine because it requires more labour and it's more expensive. Sauvignon Blanc has quite a lot of flavour caught up in the structure of the skins; flavour compounds that, if you machine harvest, you’ll get more of those things in the wine. It goes against the norm here, but if you go back and open any of our older Sauvignon Blancs under screw cap, all of those wines are bright, fresh, and still pale green—and we’re talking a 14-year old Sauvignon Blanc and it’s drinking brilliantly well. GH: The 2016 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t have an over-riding pungency like many New Zealand wines. It has finesse, high acidity, and deep intensity without being obvious. JH: Two words: hand picking. GH: Is the very fresh style somehow related to the change in closures from cork to screw cap? JH: We stayed with cork for other wines for a long, long time. But eventually, there was massive pressure, being a New World producer from New Zealand, for us to use screw caps. My opinion of screw caps is they are more consistent than cork. The wine ages perfectly well under there and it retains freshness. GH: Do you have favourite dishes that you like to pair with your Sauvignon Blanc? JH: Sauvignon Blanc made in the Marlborough style is nice by itself, but it’s really nice with fresh goat cheese and light seafood: shrimp dishes, scallops, anything like that. It’s a very food-friendly wine but it needs to compliment the food. GH: Well, you certainly have fans here.
GH: Have you done everything there is to do with Sauvignon Blanc? JH: Oh, no, you’ve never reached the end. The longer that we practice doing what we do here, the more we drill down into what’s important. The flavour that the grapes produce here, it's just there. It doesn't matter what you do, you’ve got it. All we try and do is, first, manage that culturally and, second, we ideally don’t work in the winery. It’s nice being in the vineyard. We try things to give the wine more longevity, give it more concentration, give it a wider variety of fruit flavours.
40 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
JH: The Marlborough region is a true international wine region and it’s just good to see that a lot more winemakers are starting to focus on quality as we do. It has to stay unique. There are great Sauvignons made in Italy; there are great Sauvignons made in France; and there are great Sauvignons made here. They’re different interpretations because of the soil and climate, and partly because of the people that make them too. There are lots of Sauvignon Blancs planted in different parts of New Zealand, but none come out like it does here. I think it’s just a marriage made in heaven really.
Medigas has the best pricing and service in Manitoba For ONLINE ordering, visit www.medi-gas.com and receive free shipping on orders of $75 or more.
Do you have obstructive sleep apnea (OSA)? Take the STOP BANG* questionnaire and find out! 1. Do you SNORE loudly (louder than talking or loud enough to be heard through closed doors)? 2. Do you often feel TIRED, fatigued, or sleepy during the daytime? 3. Has anyone OBSERVED you stop breathing during your sleep? 4. Do you have or are you being treated for HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE? 5. Is your BMI more than 35 kg/m2? 6. Is your AGE over 50 years old? 7. Is your NECK circumference greater than 40 cm? 8. Is your GENDER male?
HIGH RISK OF OSA: if you answered yes to three or more items LOW RISK OF OSA: if you answered yes to fewer than three items LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOU IN BRANDON AND WINNIPEG.
*Adapted from Chung, et al. “STOP Questionnaire: A Tool to Screen Patients for Obstructive Sleep Apnea” in Anesthesiology 108 (2008).
WINE & FOOD
EVENTS SCHEDULE JUNE 2018 THROUGH OCTOBER 2018
Wine & Food Evening
Cooking Demo
Join us for our wine and food pairing series! Our talented wine experts work with Winnipeg’s top chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $85.99 per person
Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs for an instructional evening of recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person
Thursday, June 7: Merchant Kitchen Thursday, July 12: Beaujena’s French Table Thursday, August 9: Chew Thursday, August 23: Wasabi Thursday, September 27: Pizzeria Gusto
Thursday, October 4: Chef Craig Guenther
Top Shelf Tasting Dedicated to the highest quality, most unique and rarest of wines. Explore the world of Top Shelf Wines at this interactive tasting hosted by our wine experts. Treat yourself to a taste of some of our most exclusive treasures. All levels of wine knowledge welcome, no tie required! Cost: $99.00 per person Saturday, October 20: Australia: Barossa & Beyond
42 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Essentials (Level 2) Essentials (Level 2) are one-evening classes that dig deep into specific topics of interest, with an educational and engaging approach.
Wine, Olive Oil & Empanadas Thursday, September 20 The Banville & Jones wine professionals are teaming up with certified olive oil sommelier Michael Graham from Frescolio Fine Oil + Vinegar to guide you through a special tasting. We will explore the history of EVOO and balsamic vinegar, how to pair it with wine, and how to use it in your home cooking. Our neighbours at La Pampa are bringing gourmet empanadas to sample alongside other delicious paired appetizers. Cost: $50.99
Wednesday August 8: Rosé Friday, October 12: South African Wines
Click on the Events & Education tab at banvilleandjones.com for updated information on wine and food events. To reserve a space or inquire about private events, call 204.948.9463. • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscany Room unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.
BANVILLE & JONES STORE HOURS: Monday to Friday: 10 am to 8 pm Saturday: 10 am to 6 pm Sundays and holidays: 11 am to 6 pm
Adventure.. made easy. FortWhyte Alive is your destination for paddling, hiking and outdoor exploration this summer. All you have to do is show up — we take care of the rest.
fortwhyte.org / FORTWHYTEALIVE
LET US ENHANCE YOUR NATURAL BEAUTY 100-1020 LORIMER BLVD., WINNIPEG, MB R3P 1C7 PH: (204) 272-9699 | FAX: (204) 943-8393 | WEB: WESTERNSURGERYCENTRE.COM FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER
Valdisanti 2014
Picconero 2012
Al Passo 2014
Al Passo 2014
93 pts
92 pts
Vallenuova 2015 Chianti Classico
Valdisanti 2014
3 bicchieri rossi
93 pts Vigna Sette 2013 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
93 pts
91 pts Vigna Sette 2013 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
91 pts
Valdisanti 2012
91 pts
Vigna Sette 2013 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
Valdisanti 2014
93 pts
Valdisanti 2014
92 pts Vallenuova 2015 Chianti Classico
2 bicchieri rossi
Picconero 2016
en primeur 95/96 pts Vallenuova 2015 Chianti Classico
91 pts
Tolaini Estate wines are available exclusively at banvilleandjones.com | tolaini.it
Picconero 2014
92 pts Valdisanti 2014
90 pts
92 pts 91 pts Vallenuova 2015 Chianti Classico
90+
Backyard Pizza Party! With Chris Cabildo (Super Deluxe), Diana Cline (Diana’s Cucina & Lounge), Andrea Eby and Matt Benger Photos by Ian McCausland
Nothing says summer like a backyard pizza party! To showcase Winnipeg’s best pie recipes, we challenged two of our favourite local pizza purveyors, Diana Cline of Diana’s Cucina & Lounge and Chris Cabildo of Super Deluxe, to share delicious summer pizza recipes (including their dough!). Diana’s Moosehead Pizza Dough is a local oven-baked favourite that cooks up crispy on the outside and malty on the doughy interior. Chris’s Super Deluxe Pizza Dough recipe produces a Neapolitan-style crust meant to be cooked at super-high temperatures (either in a pizza oven or a very hot stove) that yields a light and crispy crust. Both pizza chefs recommend cold-fermenting their pizza dough (letting it rise in the fridge over 1–2 days) to build flavour. Our pizza chefs gave our wine experts, Andrea and Matt, a pairing challenge, with pizza toppings that ranged from sweet (strawberries and balsamic) to salty (salsa verde and anchovy) and earthy (roasted vegetable) to classic (Margherita).
www.banvilleandjones.com 45
DIANA’S MOOSEHEAD BEER DOUGH Yield: Four medium (300 g) dough patties 1½ cups 1 cup 2 tsp 2 tsp 2 pkg 2 tbsp 6 cups
Moosehead Beer (room temperature) lukewarm water (72°F) sea salt sugar (4½ tsp) instant yeast extra virgin olive oil (1 kg) unbleached all-purpose flour
Whisk sugar and salt into water/beer mixture. Add yeast and whisk until dissolved. Add flour and mix on low speed for 3 minutes. Add oil and mix another 6 minutes (total mixing time 9 minutes). If you have a heavy-duty stand mixer, mix on low speed for 3 minutes; stop mixer, add oil and mix on low speed for 3 minutes and on high speed for another 3 minutes. NOTE: the dough is very heavy compared to bread dough, so do not use a mixer unless it is heavy duty. Weigh out dough equally into four 13-oz dough patties (12” pizza). Roll into balls, but do not overwork the dough.* Cover and put in your fridge for 24–36 hours to rise. To cook pizza: Preheat your oven to 450°F. Roll out pizza dough, cover with toppings of your choice, and place on a lightly greased rimmed baking sheet. Bake on the centre rack for 4 minutes, then rotate 180°, popping any bubbles with a fork. Bake another 3-4 minutes until crust is golden brown. *If you want to freeze the dough, do so before you proof it in the fridge. Wrap the dough ball in plastic wrap and freeze in sealable freezer bags. To use, put in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow dough to rise in the fridge for 24-30 hours, or on the counter for 3-4 hours.
If you don’t have the time or the inclination to make your own dough, visit Diana’s Cucina & Lounge to purchase fresh and frozen dough. Choose from original, whole wheat, gluten free, and, of course, the Moosehead Beer dough.
Roasted Veggies with Feta 2 tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup mixed dry herbs: basil, oregano salt and pepper ½ cup Spanish onion, sliced 1 cup zucchini, diced 1 cup mushrooms, sliced 6 spears asparagus, blanched Moosehead Beer dough 1½ cups mozzarella 1 cup feta cheese, crumbled Fresh parmesan cheese, grated Preheat oven to 500°F. Toss veggies with 1 tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp dried herbs and one clove minced garlic. Spread a single layer of vegetables on a rimmed baking sheet covered with parchment paper and roast for 25 minutes. Cut asparagus into thirds and blanch for 3 minutes. Add asparagus to roasting vegetables for the final 10 minutes of roasting. Reduce oven temperature to 450°F for the pizza. Roll out Moosehead Beer Dough and place on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Cover dough with 1 tbsp olive oil, remaining dried herbs and garlic, and mozzarella. Cover with roasted vegetables and crumbled feta cheese. Bake as directed above. Serve with grated fresh parmesan.
PAIR WITH:
Alpha Estate 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Florina, Greece $33.99 Tenuta l’Armonia 2013 Rosso Montecchio Maggiore, Italy $21.99
Fragole di Capra (Roasted Strawberries, Goat Cheese and Balsamic Reduction) 1½ cups strawberries, de-stemmed and sliced 5 oz package fresh soft goat cheese 1 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded ½ cup fresh basil, torn 1 cup balsamic vinegar (reduces to ½ cup) ¼ cup honey To make balsamic reduction: Bring 1 cup quality balsamic vinegar* to a boil over medium-high heat. Simmer approximately 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the reduction is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Preheat your oven to 450°F. Roll out pizza dough and place on a baking sheet (Diana recommends using traditional pizza dough for this recipe). Cover dough with mozzarella cheese, strawberries, and goat cheese. Bake as directed above. Remove pizza from the oven and cover with basil and balsamic reduction to serve. *We used Frescolio’s Traditional Balsamic Vinegar for our reduction. Frescolio’s olive oil sommelier Michael Graham also recommends these alternatives to traditional: Frescolio Condimento Bianca, Fig Dark Balsamic, and Neapolitan Herb Dark Balsamic.
PAIR WITH:
Tawse 2016 Sketches Rosé Niagara Peninsula, Canada $19.99 Paltrinieri 2016 Solco Lambrusco Emilia Romagna, Italy $23.99
SUPER DELUXE PIZZA DOUGH Yield: Two 300 g dough balls 4 cups 2 tsp 1 tsp 1½ cups
Italian tipo "00" flour or bread flour kosher salt active dry yeast warm water
Dissolve yeast in warm water. Combine the flour and salt in a mixer bowl. Add the yeast and water to flour and mix on medium until a soft ball forms. Knead dough for 10 minutes (low speed or by hand). Transfer dough to a ziplock freezer bag and proof in the fridge for two days.
To prepare pizza, place a pizza stone on the centre rack and preheat oven to its highest temperature. Roll out the dough and place it on an unrimmed baking sheet or pizza paddle that is generously covered in cornmeal. Add desired toppings. Before transferring the pizza to the stone, cover stone in cornmeal to prevent sticking. Transfer pizza to the preheated pizza stone. Cook for 3 minutes, then rotate the pizza 180°, puncturing any bubbles, and cook for another 3 minutes. Salsa Verde and Anchovy Pizza Salsa Verde: 1 cup parsley 1 pinch chili flakes 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp lemon zest 2½ tbsp red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil salt to taste Combine all ingredients in food processor or blender and blend until smooth.
www.banvilleandjones.com 47
Salsa Verde and Anchovy Pizza (cont) Pizza toppings: 4 large bocconcini balls, cut into ¼-inch slices ¼ cup whole basil leaves 1 clove garlic, minced 1 pinch chili flakes (to taste) 8 white anchovy fillets 1/3 cup fresh parmesan cheese, grated Spread a salsa verde base on the dough. Top with basil leaves, bocconcini, garlic, chili flakes, anchovies, and fresh parmesan. Bake as per instructions on page 46. Top with fresh basil leaves and a lemon wedge to serve.
PAIR WITH:
Azienda Agricola Reassi 2016 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei, Italy $17.99 Vinã Zorzal 2016 Tempranillo Navarra, Spain $15.99 Margherita Pizza 2 cups San Marzano tomatoes, crushed and seasoned to taste 1/3 cup whole basil leaves 4 large bocconcini balls, cut into ¼-inch slices 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Cover rolled dough with crushed tomatoes and arrange mozzarella cheese on top. Top with basil and drizzle with olive oil to protect the basil from burning in the oven. Bake per directions above. If desired, finish with another little drizzle of olive oil to serve.
PAIR WITH:
Tenuta Santa Caterina 2015 Arlandino Grignolino D’Asti, Italy $23.99 Terra Costantino 2014 de Aetna Etna Bianco, Italy $34.99
48 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Seven-course surprise dinners expertly paired with fine wine.
Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.
www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca
THE CELLAR DOOR CELEBRATES 10 YEARS AND 30 ISSUES! Our team at POISE PUBLICATIONS INC would like to thank: • Our partners at BANVILLE & JONES WINE CO. • Our ADVERTISING PARTNERS for many years of support • Our LOYAL READERS WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU: What do you like about the magazine? What do you want to see in future issues? Do you have a question for our Sommeliers? Help us bring you the content you want: email your feedback (with your full name) to Lisa Muirhead (lisa@poisepublications.com) by July 15, 2018 and we will enter you in a draw to win a $50 gift card at Banville & Jones Wine Co.
Hereʼs to another 10!
profile Chef Sean McKay, the Mitchell Block with the Wet and Dry Department Photos by Ian McCausland Over the past five years, Chef Sean McKay has been building a very loyal following. Sean runs two programs in the 130-year old Mitchell Block building on east McDermot. On the main floor is the bistro with fresh handmade pasta and Mediterranean fare, and upstairs you will find the highly anticipated Wet and Dry Department (launching in June), with a livelier atmosphere, a fresh cocktail program and a menu featuring plates of shared upscale comfort dishes with a unique spin to draw travellers, neighbours and late-night connoisseurs. Your culinary beginnings? I got into food without really knowing it when I lived in Europe during high school. When we first moved to Belgium, we stayed in this cool chateau hotel in the forest because our house wasn’t ready. The kitchen was all Italian culinary students, and when they would make staff meals, I would come down and eat in the kitchen with them. My parents worked full time and neither could cook. I often skipped school and I would ride around on my motorbike and hit all the markets. I would come home, look up recipes, and then when my parents would get home from work, I would have a meal prepared as my get-outof-jail free card for skipping class. The secret ingredient in your fridge? Lemon ash is something we have on our menu now. We take a case of lemons and throw them into the oven overnight and let ‘em rip until they are black and hollow. The citrus oil in the lemons remains and so when you bust them up, you get this earthy black ash with a citrus blast. We are playing around with grapefruit and orange ashes now. Most interesting current food trend (international or local)? Keeping it simple. I think that when people go out to eat and visit with friends, they don’t always want to be challenged. They want to be comfortable. They want to have their minds blown by the food, but they don’t want to have to figure out how to approach a dish just to get it into their mouth. Favourite wine? Zorzal Tempranillo—it’s affordable and it goes well with food. 50 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Agnolotti with roasted sweet potato, sage, and house-made ricotta
Favourite kitchen gadget at home? The Kitchen Aid mixture is a game changer for small batch dough and breadmaking. I also use a Vitamix to make my coulis and soups fine and velvety. Favourite cookbook? flour + water: pasta by Chef Thomas McNaughton, of the San Francisco restaurant of the same name. It’s top-notch pasta with traditional techniques and a focus on flavour. It allows me to see what other people who are in love with pasta are doing. Favourite food travel destination? When I decided to change my concept on the second floor, I went to Vancouver and ate for four days. I hit maybe a dozen restaurants and bars a day. One of the coolest places I went in Vancouver was a second-storey walk-up in Chinatown: Kissa Tanto, an Italian-Japanese fusion restaurant with basically no signage. Guilty pleasure (food or otherwise)? After a busy night of running around and tasting food, I like to make comfort food like macaroni and cheese; or last week, we made pizza pops from scratch. The things that people crave late at night will be making an appearance on the menu at the Dry and Wet Department. My non-food guilty pleasure is collecting arcade games and fixing old pinball machines.
Choosing the right insurance is like choosing the right wine. In both cases, the best results require expert advice. Like a knowledgeable sommelier’s impeccable selection, professional insurance brokers are uniquely equipped to help you choose the insurance coverage that best suits your needs.
Ask your insurance broker about Portage Mutual Insurance. w w w. p o r t a g e m u t u a l . c o m
Spontaneous New Zealand By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier It is a small country, but big in experiences. New Zealand offers an incredible array of urban, wine and outdoor adventures. Four experienced New Zealand visitors— Erin Crampton and Marc DeGagne of Winnipeg’s own Crampton’s Market, and Tina Jones and Gary Hewitt of Banville & Jones—share their tips for visiting this amazing destination.
The friendly staff of Yealands Family Wines, Marlborough (photo courtesy of Yealands Family Wines)
52 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
North Island With a major international airport, Auckland is a frequent starting point for travellers. Auckland is a lovely walking city with a lively harbour, a cosmopolitan feel, and a vibrant food and wine scene, says Tina Jones. Restaurants, cafés, and casual bistros reflect the diverse nature of the population, giving an array of choices. Tina also recommends the countryside and towns of the North Island for active tourism: whitewater rafting, zip-lining, sulphur springs, backcountry hiking, and mountain biking are all easily accessible. “For active tourism, it is easy to have a plan—and just as easy to be spontaneous.” Hawke’s Bay: Many visitors to the North Island are drawn to the Hawke’s Bay wine region, centred around Napier. In the area, vineyards host live music events, and according to Erin Crampton, on summer weekends, “You can sip wine, nibble on great food, and just soak up the music of life!” Art lovers revel in the Napier Art Deco Festival; farmers markets abound; and the historic Maori fort in Napier is a rich cultural and historical site. In addition to these activities, visitors can go off the beaten track, and enjoy a cool swim on a hot summer day at Maraetotara Falls near the town of Hastings. The seemingly simple experience will stay with you for a lifetime.
South Island Marlborough: The Marlborough wine region that built the reputation of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc lies within easy striking distance of Nelson and Blenheim at the island’s northern tip. Three national parks surround the region; its towns support both active outdoor sports activities as well as a vibrant art scene; and world-class wines are down every road. Blenheim, Picton, and Nelson are known for their food and wine culture, warm weather, beautiful fresh fruits, and amazing green lipped mussels. The agriculture-based economy of New Zealand provides an evolving palette of seasonal specialties for chefs and for food lovers. To explore wineries and local products, supported cycling tours are offered in the region’s “Golden Mile” through Rapaura and Renwick. Tour operators will pick you up, bring you to the bicycle, provide a helmet, water and a map, and even carry your purchases as you enjoy the beautiful ride. For museum lovers, the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, in Blenheim near te Pa Winery, is a distinctive exhibit of historic aircraft, full of its fascinating reproductions and stories.
Marlborough Sounds is a series of sheltered inlets and small bays created by ancient sunken river valleys. Experienced guides based in Picton provide tours that explore the Sounds, its rich Maori legends of the region as well as native plants and wildlife. One company Erin recommends is Myths and Legends Ecotours (www.eco-tours.co.nz). Central Otago: Gary Hewitt, Banville & Jones senior buyer, visited New Zealand a few years ago; Central Otago was a highlight of his trip, and his visit to Felton Road was a highlight in the region. Producing an outstanding premium range of wines, including the iconic Pinot Noir wines for which the region is rightly famous, Felton Road is a destination in itself. (Appointments are arranged through their website feltonroad. com.) “The wines are beautiful, but the backdrop of the surrounding mountains is also stunning.” The region was also the home to the country’s gold rush. The historic bridges, mines, and dams remain ready to be explored, as is tourism in panning for gold. Adventure-seekers can easily access day hikes, lakes, and numerous adventure sports. Among these is the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge near Gibbston. The historic suspension bridge rises above the gorge on schist masonry towers and stretches across the 90-metre gap. “Tourists and locals now bungee jump off the bridge,” says Erin. “It is great entertainment to listen to the excited screams as people plunge toward the river below!” For those not interested in being tied to a large elastic band and throwing themselves from a bridge, Otago is also a driving haven, filled with stunning scenery used during filming of The Lord of the Rings movie series. The drive around Wanaka gives remarkable views of the rugged setting of the fellowship’s escape from Warg-riding Orks. The Central Otago Rail Trail, a cycling trail built over a decommissioned rail line, offers trips of a few hours or tours of a few days. Cyclists can be completely independent or travel as part of a group. (http://www.otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz) As always, after your chosen adventure, a fine glass of New Zealand wine will help your relaxation continue into the evening. Tina, Gary and Erin attest to New Zealand’s vibrant cities, small towns with deep histories, villages with first-rate restaurants, and country roads leading to wineries or to breathtaking volcano hikes. They have found the best food right around the corner of any small town, people who are welcoming and open, and the best baristas at gas station coffee bars. It is an easy country to love, and some of its best ambassadors are in Winnipeg at Crampton’s Market and at Banville & Jones. www.banvilleandjones.com 53
(Clockwise from top left): Napier Art Deco Festival (photo courtesy of Art Deco Trust); Rotorua Champagne Springs; Marlborough vineyards (photo courtesy of Marlborough Tourism); Checking in with the goats at Felton Road (photo courtesy of Felton Road); Erin Cramption cycling the Otago Rail trail (photo by Marc DeGagne); Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge.
54 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
A TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND To bring the New Zealand experience home is to buy the freshest ingredients and search out a perfect regional wine pairing. A few of our suggestions: • Fresh farm meats and produce are specialties of the Farmers’ Markets of Hawke’s Bay. To bring the taste home try grilled chicken satay skewers with Ka Tahi Pinot Gris (a proud Hawke’s Bay producer). • In Marlborough, seafood reigns supreme. A special regional treasure are the green lipped mussels, with an iridescent green shell and a sweet, tender taste. At home, find the freshest mussels possible, toss them with fresh herbs and zippy spice, and cook quickly on a hot barbecue. Pair with te Pā Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. • Central Otago boasts cuisine showcasing regional foods from the land and sea. Prepare a fresh pasta dish with seared fresh mushrooms, eggplant, zucchini and open a beautiful bottle of Felton Road Pinot Noir. Life will be good with New Zealand inspiration. Image courtesy of te Pā Wines
Our reputation speaks for itself luxury home renovations & new home construction Master Renovator
Quality
Experience
Service
gourmet kitchens lifestyle basements spa bathrooms
18 MHBA GOLD AWARDS
8 TIME TOP FIVE IN CANADA CHBA AWARDS
BEST RENOVATION IN CANADA CHBA AWARDS
BEST OF HOUZZ SERVICE 2016 & 2017
spectacular wine cellars
204.338.3151 | info@harwoodbuilders.com | harwoodbuilders.com
BA
EG
WESTERN CANADA'S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL. FORMERLY BANVILLE & JONES WINE INSTITUTE
T
O
W CO
LL
KS
D R & IN E NI
E
M
I AN
Andrea Eby, Vinitaly International Academy Ambassador In March, Andrea Eby, our Wine & Drinks College partner and Sommelier instructor, was selected as one of 50 top up-and-coming Italian wine experts in the world to attend the Vinitaly International Academy (VIA). Chosen from over 600 applicants, Andrea worked alongside the best of the best wine scholars for four gruelling days of intensive education and tasting leading up to a full day of examination. “That Andrea was chosen from among the top wine experts around the world is incredible,” explains Tina Jones. “The fact that she was awarded the designation of VIA Ambassador puts her in the company of only 1 of 13 Canadian wine scholars who have been recognized for this level of achievement and intense knowledge of Italian wine.” Following Andrea’s success at VIA, she was treated to an exclusive behind-the-scenes VIP tour of Vinitaly, the biggest annual wine exhibition in the world. Bring your best Italian wine questions to Banville & Jones—the Ambassador is ready! Andrea Eby (centre) with Stevie Kim, Managing Director of the Vinitaly Academy (left) and Ian d’Agata, Scientific Director of the Vinitaly International Academy (right)
56 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
At Banville & Jones, we are forever learning, changing, and growing to bring you the best from around the world. And what is better than bubbles? Nothing—which is why we have expanded our luxurious collection with our new SPARKLING WALL.
Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Dosage Zéro Champagne ($72.99): drawn from older vines and older wines for a dry Champagne with depth, intensity and 100% deliciousness.
Since bubbles scream for celebration, we popped open these favourites for the launch (and recommend you do the same for your summer celebrations!).
Jeeper nv Grand Reserve Brut Cuvée Champagne ($92.99): creamy, toasty and elegant (they use oak barrels for the first fermentation)
Marlène Delong nv Cuvée Privilège Brut Champagne ($59.99): organic, open and expressive.
COURSE SPOTLIGHT: WE’RE NOT JUST ABOUT WINE WDCM™ LAUNCHES WSET® LEVEL 2 AWARD IN SPIRITS! As a trusted Approved Program Provider of the renowned WSET® courses, WDCM is pleased to launch the WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits course this fall! Do you want to learn more about the incredible range of whisky/whiskey, vodka, gin, and other distilled spirits? How about exploring the use of spirits in cocktails? This course is suitable for beginners and intermediates, for those working in the industry, and for spirits enthusiasts. Upon successful completion you will receive a WSET® certificate and lapel pin, and will be able to use the associated WSET® certified logo. Class fee includes all course and exam fees, a set of tasting glasses, and WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits textbook package.
&DR INE I N
BA
EG
T
O
CO
LL
KS
W
Date: November 16, 17, 18, full days (exam November 18 afternoon) Tuition: $750 plus GST
E
MA
NI
sidebar By Sylvia Jansen,
DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier
To be or not to be... from an appellate Question: Where did you say this wine is from? Answer: Do you really need to know?
special and distinctive. Appellation systems strive to provide certainty about those places.
Whenever a new wine comes into our store, or I am shopping for wine in my travels, I always turn the bottle around to read all the information. Where are you from? I ask the wine. What grape varieties grow in your place? Are you far from here? What language do your people speak?
Not every wine leaves its place of origin in a bottle and arrives for sale bearing an appellation, or even a country of origin. Close to 40% of the world’s wine is exported in bulk, crossing borders in big containers or boxes (some the size of your living room). Then there is brokering, buying, and trading; then there can be blending with wines from other places, then packaging and selling to consumers in bag-in-box containers or bottles. It might sit on the retail shelf with distinctive packaging, sometimes a catchy name, and inevitably at an attractive price.
These questions are usually answered by the wine’s appellation. An appellation is a legally defined, specific place. An appellation can be as big as a region, or as small as a single vineyard. Rules governing appellations might be numerous and strict (defining geographical boundary, grape varieties, detailed vineyard and winemaking practices, packaging specifications); or not (geographical boundary only). On the label, the appellation is made clear using a logo, or seal, or initials (in Canada, it is VQA). The highest praise for a wine is that it sings from the glass of its quality and elegance, and eloquently speaks to the place where it was born. Certain places on this planet have the capacity to produce wines (and other agricultural or food products) that are
58 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
If a wine is non-appellation, it will likely be a product of this massive transport system. It may well contain wines from several different countries, and more than one vintage. Germans drink a staggering amount of inexpensive bubbly, made from widely sourced bulk wines. Many Canadians drink “cellared in Canada” wines. We tend not to ask these wines to give passport information. Non-appellation wines might well be sweetened to round out the palate and hide any rough edges, and inevitably taste, well, like general sorts of wines. But the place, or places, the wines were born? Not important.
Before you accuse me of being a snob, I am not suggesting that all wines need to be appellation wines. But still, I would like to know in a general sense where the wine originated. Otherwise it is like getting oranges from the grocery store labeled “could be from anywhere.” These wines marketed in Canada have been labeled like that: a bit of information (sometimes tiny font size, gold ink on white) on the back label saying “cellared in Canada by (company and Canadian address) from imported and/or domestic wines.” As of March 2018, the “cellared in Canada” practice is being replaced by “International blend from imported and domestic wines” if the bottle contains primarily imported wines and “International blend from domestic and imported wines” if primarily domestic wines. The new rules do not require the release of any passport stamps from the wine’s travels before it was bottled, mind you, but at least they give a rough idea. For me, it would still be nice to know from where the wine originates. I want to get to know the place. So here’s to you, fully grounded.
From Corporate Picnics To Backyard Barbecues
Fairmont Winnipeg has Catering Covered
Book an offsite picnic or barbecue with a minimum of $10,000 food and beverage and receive: • A certificate to include a 1 night accommodation for a family of 4 in a Fairmont Room, breakfast and tickets to either Assiniboine Park Zoo or the Manitoba Museum. Offer valid for new offsite events not yet booked, confirmed, or already in the sales process. Offer must be mentioned at time of booking/request for proposal. Cannot be combined with any other offers or promotions. Bookings must be actualized by October 31, 2018. Offer is subject to hotel availability. Food & beverage minimum is $10,000 and excludes taxes and service charge. Contact 204-985-6212 for more information.
culinary partners
529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 529wellington.ca
Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean Cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion. 302 Hamel Avenue beaujenas.com
Banville & Jones Wine Co. partners with Manitoba's finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list. For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@banvilleandjones.com
Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue peasantcookery.ca
Carne is an elegant and contemporary Italian Chophouse featuring Waygu beef from Canada, USA or Japan as well as high-end single-source beef from select suppliers across the country. Or choose succulent seafood, fresh pastas and Italian classics such as Osso Bucco. Pair these entrées with an exemplary wine and cocktail list. Carne is just steps away from the MTS Centre and The Forks. Private rooms are available. Open for dinner Monday–Saturday. 295 York Avenue carneitalia.ca
Across the Board Aevi Spa Salon Boutique Aurora Pizzeria Café Beaujena’s French Table Boulevard Pub and Bistro Canadian Brewhouse Café 22 Café Dario Chew Clementine Cordova Tapas & Wine D-Jay’s Restaurant Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Elkhorn Resort Enoteca ERA Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Forth
Hotel Fort Garry Hy’s Steakhouse Inferno’s Bistro Joey Restaurants Joey’s Only Seafood Jonesy’s Restaurant Kristina’s on Corydon La Roca Le Cercle Molière Máquè Manitoba Club McGee’s Family Restaurant Mere Hotel Mon Ami Louis Monticchio Ristorante Italiano Muddy Waters Olive Garden Passero and Corso Pizzeria Gusto Prairie’s Edge Rae & Jerry’s
Riverside Inn Sabai Thai Segovia SMITH Restaurant South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Swiss Chalet Super Deluxe Pizzeria Tapp’s Neighbourhood Pub Teo's The Alt Hotel The Common The Merchant Kitchen The Mitchell Block The Victoria Inn Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina VG Restaurant at the Fairmont Wasabi Sabi
www.banvilleandjones.com 60
shopping list
Abadia De Totoreos 2016 Albarino Rias Baxias, Spain $23.99................................................................................................... 62 Alpha Estate Sauvignon 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Florina, Greece $33.99....................................................................... 28,46 Alta Alella nv Mirgin Laieta Cava Rosé Penedes, Spain $44.99.................................................................................................. 28 Azienda Agricola Reassi 2016 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei, Italy $17.99...................................................................... 48 Bacalhôa 2017 JP Azeitão Syrah Rosé Setubal, Portugal $13.99................................................................................................. 21 Blue Mountain 2015 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, Canada $36.99............................................................................................ 62 Ca Maiol nv Sebastian Brut Rosé Lombardy, Italy $19.99.......................................................................................................... 28 Caves de Lugny nv Brut Rosé Cremant de Bourgogne, France $23.99........................................................................................ 28 Chantovent 2017 Bistro Signature Rosé Languedoc Roussillon, France (1 litre) $19.99............................................................. 20 Cailleteau Bergeron 2016 Tradition Sauvignon Blanc Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux, France $15.99................................................. 25 Chateau Guiraud 2011 Sauternes, France (375 ml) $85.99......................................................................................................... 25 Coriole 2017 Chenin Blanc, McLaren Vale, Australia $21.99..................................................................................................... 12 Dog Point 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $36.99....................................................................................... 26 Felton Road 2014 Pinot Noir Central Otago, New Zealand $89.99........................................................................................... 55 Ferrari-Carano 2016 Fumé Blanc Sonoma County, USA $29.99................................................................................................. 27 GoVino Patio Glasses (4-pack) $23.99........................................................................................................................................ 12 Heron Ridge 2014 The Flight Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch, South Africa $20.99..................................................... 34 Invivo 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley, New Zealand $18.99........................................................................................... 26 Jeeper nv Grand Reserve Brut Cuvée Champagne, France $92.99............................................................................................... 57 Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Montarlet Sancerre, France $33.99................................................................................................... 10,25 Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Tronsec Pouilly-Fumé, France $29.99..................................................................................................... 25 Juno 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape, South Africa $15.99................................................................................................ 28 Juno 2016 SMV Swartland, South Africa $16.99........................................................................................................................ 62 Ka Tahi 2015 East Coast Pinot Gris Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand $17.99............................................................................... 10,55 Marlène Delong nv Cuvée Privilege Brut Champagne, France $59.99......................................................................................... 57 Matua 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand $18.99............................................................................................. 26 Menhir 2017 Novementi Rosato Salento, Italy $18.99............................................................................................................... 20 Mortar and Pestle 2017 Cabernet/Merlot Australia $17.99........................................................................................................ 62 Paltrinieri Solco 2016 Lambrusco Emilia, Italy $23.99............................................................................................................... 47 Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Dosage Zéro Champagne $72.99...................................................................................... 57 Quadri 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Delle Venezie, Italy $13.99.......................................................................................................... 10 Rafael Cambra 2013 Soplo Garnacha Valencia, Spain $13.99.................................................................................................... 62 Reassi nv Rosato Vino Frizzante Veneto, Italy $17.99................................................................................................................. 28 Strada Bianca Civettina Rosso Toscana, Italy $19.99.................................................................................................................. 62 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2016 Aveta Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, USA $44.99...................................................................... 27 Supernatural Wine Co. 2014. Green Glow Skin Fermented Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand $31.99...................... 26 Tawse 2016 Sketches Rosé Niagara Peninsula, Canada $19.99................................................................................................... 47 te Pa 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé Marlborough, New Zealand $21.99............................................................................................... 20 te Pa 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $21.99.......................................................................................... 20,55 Tenuta l’Armonia 2013 Rosso Montecchio Maggiore, Italy $31.99............................................................................................ 46 Tenuta Santa Caterina 2015 Arlandino Grignolino D’Asti, Italy $23.99..................................................................................... 48 Terlan 2016 Winkl Sauvignon Alto Adige, Italy $34.99......................................................................................................... 10,25 Terlan 2015 Quarz Sauvignon Alto Adige, Italy $69.99.............................................................................................................. 25 Terra Costantino 2014 de Aetna Etna Bianco, Italy $34.99........................................................................................................ 48 The Juice Asylum 2016 Il Terzo Grado Rosso, Montepulciano, Italy $26.99.............................................................................. 12 Union Wine Co. 2017 Underwood Rosé Oregon, USA ($6.99/375mL; $21.99/750mL).............................................................. 20 Ventisquero 2016 Kalfu Kuda Leyda Valley, Chile $22.99.......................................................................................................... 28 Vinã Zorzal 2016 Tempranillo Navarra, Spain $15.99.......................................................................................................... 48,50 Yealands 2017 Land Made Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $19.99...................................................................... 26 Zinck nv Brut Rosé Cremant d’Alsace, France $29.99................................................................................................................ 28
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. www.banvilleandjones.com 61
* C U STOMER P IC K *
top picks
ROGER BELTON
ANDREA EBY
REBECCA LECHMAN
Blue Mountain 2015 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, BC $36.99
Strada Bianca nv Civettina Rosso Toscana IGT $19.99
Juno 2016 SMV Swartland, South Africa $16.99
When I was asked to pick a “favourite” wine, I chose to be more predictable than adventurous. Pinot Noirs are my go-to reds, and I love the wines that come from the Okanagan. Blue Mountain is south of Lake Okanagan and this lovely, soft 2015 Pinot Noir reminds me of days spent touring the vineyards and time on a boat enjoying the beautiful views! Have a sip, close your eyes, and imagine the Okanagan!
Named for the flirtatious Civettina owl, this full-bodied, complex wine will lure you in just like its Tuscan namesake. This blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc from the heart of Chianti Classico seriously over-delivers for its price point. Plum, black cherry, black tea, leather, and thyme are framed by classic “dusty” Sangiovese tannins that invoke the white gravel roads crisscrossing the Tuscan countryside. Bravo, Strada Bianca: this wine has definitely got its talons in me!
Whenever I visit my BFF for a girls’ weekend, I always select a new wine to try with her. The criteria: great value, a little off the beaten path, and, of course, delicious. Juno, Roman queen of the gods, her chariot drawn by peacocks? Perfect. This full-bodied red is a blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, and a dash of Viognier. It’s full of mocha lusciousness and perfect for brisket on the smoker. Enjoy with your BFF this summer.
JOSIE DUTOIT
KEVIN BAILLIE
STEVE LAGIMODIERE
Abadia De Totoreos 2016 Albarino Rias Baxias, Spain $23.99
Mortar and Pestle 2017 Cabernet/Merlot, South Australia, $17.99
Rafael Cambra 2013 Soplo Garnacha Fontanars Dels Alforins Valencia, Spain $13.99
If you’re looking for an easy drinking red wine to sip on the patio throughout these warm summer months, look no further! This Cabernet/Merlot blend plays with a juicy, fruitful palate rich with notes of plum, dark berries, and a hint of chocolate. Enjoy with a plate of barbequed ribs or on its own with good company.
Soplo, in Catalan/Spanish dialect, refers to the wind blowing. Rafael’s use relates it to the way fond memories can pop into our minds. At only $13.99, I would say this Garnacha is pretty mind blowing! Ripe raspberry, dried strawberries, and light, dusty spice (likely stemming from the sandy soils that “blow” through the vineyard). A solid sipper for spring into summer. This Soplo calls for “many”!
From colour to aromatics to palate, this wine made me think of sunny patio sipping. A tropical bouquet delights you with mango, star fruit, passion fruit, and guava. The palate shows similar to the tropical nose but with more complexity, with minerally flint and a slight creaminess that gives it the slightest pleasant weight. Enjoy paired with sunshine, seafood, ham, or a light, crisp salad.
62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Let our exceptional orthodontic team
M A K E YO U R
SMILE SHINE BRIGHT
Hats Off to Summer! To a season filled with warmth and sunshine and the smile you’ve always wanted.
Call today to achieve your confident smile. P (204)832-3910 2541 Portage Avenue drdumore.com