Ask a Sommelier (no. 34)

What is the difference between Petite Sirah and Syrah?

—Christine Woodholf

These two red varieties seem similar, but there is a big difference. Petite Sirah is a mostly North and South American name for Durif, a French variety. Petite Sirah/ Durif can be a generous, gulpable, and sometimes even age-worthy wine, and adds colour and body to blends.

Syrah, on the other hand, is the noble, stylish darling variety, world traveller, and star of this issue of The Cellar Door. (I should mention, though, that in the northern Rhône there is a smaller-berried version of Syrah that some growers call “petite syrah” which is really Syrah, not Durif.) DNA profiling suggests that Syrah is one of the parents of Durif, but that does not mean a lot. The genetic parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are Cabernet Franc (red) and Sauvignon Blanc (white), also very different from their child.

Petite Sirah/Durif has a particular following in the United States: psiloveyou.org gives a lot of information on this lesser-known variety. For some immediate research, try the delicious McManis Petite Sirah ($22.99).

—Sylvia Jansen

Why is Champagne, and other sparkling wines, usually white?

—Carsen McCandless

Champagne and other sparkling wines such as Cava, Prosecco, and Crémant can be made from white grape varieties (such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Macabeo, Parellada ... the list goes on and on)—but not all sparkling wines are made from white grapes! Many Champagnes are made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier blended with Chardonnay. These Champagnes are not a rosé colour because, as in wine production with white grapes, the dark grape skins

have no contact with the juice—they use only the white flesh inside the red skin. Winemakers can get the aroma, complexity, and flavour of these two dark-skinned grape varieties without adding their colour. Two beautiful examples of these blends are PloyezJacquemart Extra Quality Brut ($66.99) and Marcel Vezien Brut Tradition ($48.99).

However, there are also many rosé Champagnes and sparkling wines. To produce a rosé Champagne, still red wine is added to the blend to create the hue and complexity the winemaker wants to achieve. Take for example Jeeper Brut Rosé ($104.99), made of 88% Chardonnay with 12% Pinot Noir. Sparkling rosés can also be made from dark-skinned grape varieties like Gamay, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Tempranillo, and Pinot Meunier. Try one of my favourites: Zinck Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé ($31.99) made from 100% Pinot Noir.

Finally, there are some sparkling reds on the market. Sparkling Shiraz from Australia has made its mark on the world and is something crazy cool to try. If you are curious, I recommend Majella’s sparkling Shiraz ($46.99). For the newest trend in red bubbles, however, see the next question answered by my colleague Andrea about Lambrusco!

What exactly is Lambrusco? It seems like everyone is drinking it these days and I don’t really understand it. Is it a wine style or a grape variety? Is it dry or sweet? Help!

—S. Link

Lambrusco is a style of sparkling red wine. Once known for being a cheap, sweet, frothy, purple beverage, Lambrusco has recently undergone somewhat of a renaissance. The Emilia-Romagna region of Italy is home to more than 60 grape varieties allowed in the production of Lambrusco, but despite this diversity all the wines share bright acidity and fresh wild berry flavours.

Bottled with bubbles, the wines can range from the darker, more intensely flavoured examples made from the Grasparossa grape to paler pink versions, brimming with red berry fruit, that have been vinified from the more elegant Sorbara variety. Many of today’s examples are dry or sport just a hint of sweetness. Look for the word “dolce” on the label if you are seeking out a sweeter version, or take a peek at the alcohol percentage on the bottle: if it’s 9% or less you will be looking at something with perceptible sweetness. Drier versions will usually range from 10.5% to 12.5%.

The range of styles and flavours means that there is literally a Lambrusco out there for every palate and every plate. For a deep purple Lambrusco made from the Grasparossa grape, I recommend Bertolani Oro Lambrusco Secco from Reggiano ($17.99): with black cherry, blackberry, rhubarb, and cream flavours, it is the perfect pairing for cured meats and spicy pizzas. For a pinker version, try the Lambrusco dell’Emilia Secco ($16.99) by the Zucchi sisters. This blend of 70% Salamino and 30% Sorbara is a fruity but dryer style with watermelon, strawberry, raspberry, and pretty floral notes.

—Andrea Eby

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