Profile: Chef Melissa Makarenko Peasant Cookery

Photos by Ian McCausland

Like many of us Manitobans, Chef Melissa Makarenko grew up making perogies and holopchi with her Mom and grandmother. Her path to the kitchen was not a direct one, however. Melissa was in school pursuing marine biology, when the drudgery of university studies caught up with her. Melissa met a passionate chef at a local job fair who inspired her to explore culinary school. After working for the Fairmont hotels in Winnipeg, New Brunswick and Montreal, Melissa came home to roost with an 8-year tenure at Resto Gare in St Boniface. It was a place to learn and develop her own personal philosophy as a chef, and prepared her for her current home as Executive Chef at The Peasant Cookery.

How would you describe your cooking philosophy?

I describe it as “upscale comfort.” I want the flavours and the product to shine. The simplest ingredients can be the tastiest—but also the most complicated to make. I like to be honest and be true to every flavour.

Peasant Pot au Feu: Hylife pork with seasonal vegetables

Photo by Ian McCausland

You arrived at Peasant Cookery in the summer of 2019. What is your vision for the restaurant?

I feel so at home here. The restaurant concept is very much who I am. We are maintaining the housemade philosophy of the restaurant—we are still the only place in the city that makes everything on the charcuterie platter from scratch. I have developed a flex menu that changes daily, so when someone comes in, there will always be something new—whether it is a brand new dish or a dish that evolves. I have a plan to bring more daring dishes to the menu. I want people to come here for different and exciting dishes, but we are easing into it. You can’t just put a pig’s face on a plate and expect people to love it. The most daring dish I have offered so far is breaded sweetbreads. It is a traditional ingredient but served in a contemporary way.

Crispy sweetbreads with blue cheese mayo and mild harissa sauce

Photo by Ian McCausland

What’s the secret ingredient in your fridge?

Fresh produce: I got some quince in the fall and made jelly and jam. Quince is very tart, so I have been chatting with the lead bartenders about roasting them and making a fusion drink for the winter.

What is most interesting current food trend?

I have been paying attention to the fermentation trends, and I appreciate that, like wine, food is moving back toward honest expression.

What is your favourite wine?

Les Compains d’Abord 2017 Le Premier Soir Gamay (France, $24.99). We are also featuring many local craft beer and spirits on the bar side.

What is your favourite kitchen gadget?

My smoker gun is my newest tool. I make the beef carpaccio with a dome over it to release the maplewood smoke just before you eat it. When you smell the smoke, you experience a different flavour than if you are simply smoking the meat.

Maplewood smoked beef carpaccio

Photo by Ian McCausland

What is your favourite cookbook?

I use Joel Robuchon’s The Complete Robuchon, and there is one I always turn to called My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz.

What is your favourite food travel destination?

I love the South of France. The way they treat spices and seafood, and the time they take to build a sauce really inspire me. I would like to go to Morocco next.

What is your guilty pleasure?

Maple syrup; I use it in everything. They call me the Maple Chef.