4 minute read
PiWis: In a League of Their Own
By Andrea Eby, DipWSET, Sommelier, IWS, CSW
Sustainability represents one of the most holistic ways of addressing global issues such as climate change. Viticulturists and winemakers have realized that, in order to create a sustainable future for the industry, they must be willing to explore less traditional approaches. One such cutting-edge approach comes in the form of PiWis: an affectionately nicknamed class of superhero fungus-fighting varieties (PiWi comes from the German word Pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning literally “fungus resistant”). Originally developed in Germany, these vines represent one of viticulture’s most exciting advances in the move away from chemical dependency.
The first hybrid grapes were developed by crossing wellknown European grape varieties with lesser-known American vines. These hybrids were developed by scientists in an attempt to combine the palate-pleasing parts of European grape varieties (Vitis vinifera) with the disease resistance inherent to American vines. Original attempts created hardier, disease-resistant plants, but the wine crafted from the grapes was often criticized for its “foxy” flavours (think: strong, earthy, musky).
Some of these hybrids have endured, despite their less conventional flavours, because other character contributions outweigh their flaws. Maréchal Foch, a common cultivar in Canadian vineyards, is one such hybrid. A complex crossing of an American riparia–rupestris vine and an early-maturing Muscat variety, Maréchal Foch has survived thanks to its ability to survive our Canadian winters.
More recent attempts at creating such varieties have incorporated native Asian grapevines into the genetic pool. The ancient Vitis amurensis has strong resistance to frost, mildew and rot without the peculiar flavours of North American grapes. After decades of crossings, the resulting varieties are so genetically similar to the common Vitis vinifera that their wines are virtually indistinguishable in the glass. In fact, the only thing they have in common with “foxy” hybrids of the past is their disease resistance. This genetic similarity, coupled with the ability to produce high-quality wines, has meant that these PiWi varieties have been accepted into the European Union catalogue of approved vines. This move signals a dramatic departure from the previous anti-hybrid regulations. The wines created from these vines have also seen a huge jump in quality and, in blind tastings, often outperform the familiar varieties we know and love.
Winemakers committed to practicing environmentally sustainable viticulture are increasingly turning to PiWi varieties to fit their philosophies. Traditional grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay typically require chemical sprays up to 15 times a season in order to protect the vines from fungi and mildews. In fact, the use of chemicals is substantially higher in viticulture than in any other European agricultural sector. The French National Institute for Agricultural Research estimates that wine grapes receive almost 25% of all pesticide applications in the EU, while only accounting for 3% of the agricultural land. Adding to the environmental impact is the fact that each time the vineyard is sprayed, tractors contribute to pollution and soil impaction. PiWi varieties, on the other hand, are chosen for their inherent natural resistance to these same viticultural hazards: spraying for fungus and mildew can be eliminated, or at the very least, significantly decreased.
PiWis in Italy
Patrick Uccelli took over his family’s historic Dornach estate in the beautiful Val dell’Adige area of Italy in 2008. Trained as a viticulturist and oenologist, Patrick and his wife Karoline, a biologist by trade, quickly set to work converting the vineyards, using a mix of organic and biodynamic practices to bring the estate back into balance. Patrick is a firm believer in the core values of Rudolph Steiner, the founder of the modern biodynamic philosophy, striving in his lifestyle and on his farm to foster the development of a selfsustaining ecosystem.
“We started with PiWi because it’s a further possibility for us to shape a ‘clean’ agriculture,” explains Patrick. “Working without pesticides, it’s a great goal, and it’s offering us the opportunity to produce interesting white, red, and also orange wines.”
In the quest for truly sustainable viticulture, Patrick has dedicated a portion of his vineyards to these resistant varieties. “The greatest challenge is to find the right balance between the right PiWi variety for the wine type and the terroir where we live. It takes a lot of time. The greatest reward is to get really great wines from totally untreated grapes in a healthy environment.”
As consumer demand for organic, sustainable products continues to grow, winemakers around the world are increasingly turning to PiWi varieties. New World winemakers seem keenest to incorporate the vines into their climate change arsenal. European winemakers, weighed down by centuries of tradition and memories of “foxy” flavours lingering on the palates, have been slower to plant the vines. However, a new generation of wine drinkers, free of the dogmatic adherence to the mainstream grape varieties of their parents’ generation, has begun demanding more from the industry. Sustainability and drinkability are forefront in their minds. With support growing, PiWis stand poised to move out of the viticultural minors and into the big leagues.
Dornach 3 Vino Bianco: Solaris, Souvignier Gris and Cabernet Blanc are blended together to create an exotic white ($38.99)
Dornach 4 Vino Rosso: Regent, Prior and Merlot lend their personalities to this complex red ($38.99)
