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PiWis: In a League of Their Own By Andrea Eby, DipWSET, Sommelier, IWS, CSW Sustainability represents one of the most holistic ways of addressing global issues such as climate change. Viticulturists and winemakers have realized that, in order to create a sustainable future for the industry, they must be willing to explore less traditional approaches. One such cutting-edge approach comes in the form of PiWis: an affectionately nicknamed class of superhero fungus-fighting varieties (PiWi comes from the German word Pilzwiderstandsfähig, meaning literally “fungus resistant”). Originally developed in Germany, these vines represent one of viticulture’s most exciting advances in the move away from chemical dependency. The first hybrid grapes were developed by crossing wellknown European grape varieties with lesser-known American vines. These hybrids were developed by scientists in an attempt to combine the palate-pleasing parts of European grape varieties (Vitis vinifera) with the disease resistance inherent to American vines. Original attempts created hardier, disease-resistant plants, but the wine crafted from the grapes was often criticized for its “foxy” flavours (think: strong, earthy, musky). Some of these hybrids have endured, despite their less conventional flavours, because other character contributions outweigh their flaws. Maréchal Foch, a common cultivar in Canadian vineyards, is one such hybrid. A complex crossing of an American riparia–rupestris vine and an early-maturing Muscat variety, Maréchal Foch has survived thanks to its ability to survive our Canadian winters. More recent attempts at creating such varieties have incorporated native Asian grapevines into the genetic pool. The ancient Vitis amurensis has strong resistance to frost, mildew and rot without the peculiar flavours of North American grapes. After decades of crossings, the resulting varieties are so genetically similar to the common Vitis vinifera that their wines are virtually indistinguishable in the glass. In fact, the only thing they have in common with “foxy” hybrids of the past is their disease resistance. This genetic similarity, coupled with the ability to produce high-quality wines, has 34 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Patrick and Karoline Uccelli in the vineyards at Tenuta Dornach
