the
Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants
THE RESTAURANT ISSUE
Issue 38 February 2021 – May 2021
Tina Jones, Recipient of the Order of Manitoba
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contents Features 24 New Old Culture: The Winnipeg Restaurant
32
Sylvia Jansen explores what restaurants mean to life in Winnipeg—and what life has looked like for restaurants in the past year.
32 The Reinvention of an Industry Award-winning Sommelier and restaurateur Véronique Rivest talks to Sylvia Jansen about the challenges and inspiration of reinvention in the restaurant industry.
38 Restaurant SOS: Helping our Community Survive Practical ways that we can help our hospitality industry survive its most challenging year.
42 Luxury to Go: The New Fine Dining 42
A mouth-watering tour of food and wine pairings from a selection of Winnipeg’s best restaurants.
Cover: Photo by Thomas Fricke
JonesWines.com 7
22
contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 18 Jones & Company
54
22 Shop Local, Globally Break out of your wine rut!
28 Behind the Label Bacio Divino
36 Gary’s Corner The cost of wine
50 Trending A wine story
52 Wine and Drinks College Manitoba 53 Celebrating Tina Jones 56
54 Sidebar That was a good year*
56 Culinary Partners Our restaurant partners share their winter wine recommendations
58 Top Picks
8 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
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“We drizzle Frescolio's Koroneiki olive oil on our popular Sicilian Square. It delivers fresh, bold fruitiness and adds a punch of aroma and flavour.” —Chef Michael Sung, Wall Street Slice
Cellar Door
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Cook like a Chef
Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Josie Duthoit, Thomas Fricke, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, James Johnston, Tina Jones, Tracy Koga, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Alana MacKenzie, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin, Tom Penner, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Rob Stansel, Dylan Watkins, Leah Watkins. Thank you to all of the Jones & Company restaurant partners who contributed photography for this issue. Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com
For advertising information, please contact lisa@poisepublications.com
Order online or over the phone. Pick up your order in-store or get it delivered.* *Deliveries apply to city-wide orders $40 and up
In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.
Three locations in Winnipeg: 2-929 Corydon Ave. | 204-505-1455 5-1604 St Mary’s Rd. | 204-615-3885 1-1530 Regent Ave W. | 204-504-4200
1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463 JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants
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Photo by Thomas Fricke
a message from tina jones What a year this has been, and how developments have changed week by week! We do not even know what Winnipeg and Manitoba will look like when you read this or what our restaurant and hospitality scene will look like. There is so much that is uncertain. But what we do know is that working in wine is part of a culture of hope. Winegrowers tend vines and harvest fruit that will be enjoyed years in the future; winemakers make wines that will sometimes develop over a long time and then bring a special touch to an evening for people they will never meet. Wine merchants like us order wine a year in advance, hoping that wine lovers will love the wine we buy. The nature of hospitality brings together optimistic people. We want that to continue long into our future. When we began to discuss what this issue of The Cellar Door might look like, we could not help but talk about the dominating news of the past year. We have all needed to pivot continually, with regulations, shut-downs, the second wave—restrictions and worries that never seemed to stop. This reality meant that we quickly abandoned our original plan for this issue and decided to focus on a part of our community that has been very hard hit: restaurants. Please take some time to read every page of this issue. We look at the culture of restaurant hospitality with Sylvia Jansen, as well as the hard numbers about how they are affected and what each of us can do to support them. We shop local, taking a tour of Winnipeg restaurants, and see a sampling of the creativity by Winnipeg chefs with food and wine pairings by our wine team. Ricki-Lee Podolecki shows us how to venture into new wine territory, and Mike Muirhead offers pointers for building your wine collection. It has been challenging to put together a magazine when our talented photographer Ian McCausland, like so many other people in the creative community, has been deemed a “non-essential service” and is unable to work, even remotely. Thank you to our restaurants and customers who submitted photos to fill our pages! As always, we are grateful for your support, and we value your feedback. When you come in, please say hello to the Jones & Company family. We are all living in these crazy circumstances, and we still love to see our friends! To supporting our community!
Tina Jones
12 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
Everything good. Everything local. Shop online for essential items, groceries, craft beer, locally-made gifts, and so much more! All your favourite Manitoba businesses and makers, all on one website, all delivered to your door weekly.
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Supporting local isn’t seasonal. As we launched GoodLocal at the outset of Code Red, we had no idea how quickly and passionately Winnipeg would show up for small businesses. I was blown away by the unbelievable support and orders; makers, farmers, vendors were given a platform to showcase their products and we quickly went from 30 orders to 3000. Now, we need your help to continue to save small businesses in Manitoba: big box stores will be here after the pandemic, but your favourite bakery may not. When you place an order on GoodLocal.ca, you are using your purchasing power to support small businesses owned by your neighbours, friends, and corner-stores. You can help by shopping online and having your orders delivered safely to your door, knowing that you’re supporting families and reinvigorating our local economy. To help you do this now, please use the code CELLARDOOR to get free delivery on one order. Thank you for championing local entrepreneurs, and thank you for being a part of GoodLocal. - Obby Khan, Co-Founder at GoodLocal
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ask a sommelier Why isn’t all wine vegan? —Jen Wilson The filtering process is the main reason that not all wine is vegetarian or vegan. Filtering the wine provides a clear, stable, and consumer-friendly product, but wine has particles that are microscopic and can pass through these filters. On a chemical level, the wine needs either a lot of time before bottling (often really impractical) or help in removing those microscopic particles that would otherwise spoil it later. Fining agents such as casein (a milk protein), albumin (egg whites), gelatin (animal protein), and isinglass (fish bladder protein) can be used to fine/filter the wines. The fining agents are used to pull certain particles from the wine and then they are removed from the wine (you are not drinking fish bladder, I promise). This is where some wines do not meet the standards for a vegan diet. Many wineries are starting to indicate they are vegan on the back of the bottle, and we have a full list of vegan wines that any of our Sommeliers can help you with. I recommend you start with the following: from California, Farmhouse 2018 Red Blend ($19.99); from Alsace, France, Zinck 2016 Pinot Gris ($26.99); and two options from Australia, River Retreat 2019 Shiraz ($13.99) and Majella 2016 The Musician Cabernet Shiraz from Coonawarra ($25.99).
glass (i.e., made specifically for Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc), these are made to enhance the nuances of that particular wine perfectly. The way the glass is blown, the quality of the glass used, and the shape of the glass are all designed specifically for that particular style and structure of wine. We always suggest a fun little experiment: open your favourite bottle of wine, pour some into a regular, rolled rimmed, run-of-the-mill wine glass (or even a tumbler!), then pour that same wine into a breathable and/or varietally specific glass. Swirl, smell, then sip the wine from the regular wine glass. Note how the wine smells and tastes specifically. Then swirl, smell, and sip from the other high-end glass—you’ll notice a huge difference. The nose will be that much more expressive, and the flavours and complexity of the wine will be elevated. You won’t believe it’s the same wine! And for that reason alone, no matter if you drink a $15 bottle or a $150 bottle, those glasses made with a tailored design will take your wine experience to a whole different level. —Jill Kwiatkoski We are currently drinking so many blends from France. They are some of the best wines we have ever had. Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre, for example, or Carignan blended with the above mentioned as well as Cabernet and Merlot. Why are they so underrated in North America?
—Ricki-Lee Podolecki
—Brian Smith
We have used breathable wine glasses for years and swear they make our wine taste better. We have experimented with varietal glasses as well and found that the wine definitely tastes different in the proper varietal glass compared to just any old wine glass. Do breathable and varietal glasses make a difference?
The very notion of the blend is fairly misunderstood in our market. Despite the fact that many of the great wines of the world—with the exceptions of, say, Barolo, Burgundy, and premium Riesling, among others—are blends of more than one grape, consumers have been conned by the cult of the single variety.
—Jodi Candaele
A single grape on a label is easily understood. It’s how many of us shop, because we’ve been conditioned by the big “New World Wines” machine: Aussie became synonymous with Shiraz, and California with Cabernet Sauvignon, very
Excellent question, Jodi! Yes indeed, proper glassware certainly does make a huge difference. Whether you choose a breathable glass or a varietally specific
14 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
powerfully, thanks to the success of those grapes and the marketing behind them. Add to that the somewhat classist notion that blends—such as Apothic and its many imitators—are “cheap” or “lowbrow” wines, and you’ve got a recipe for a major misunderstanding of the blend. Thankfully for those in the know, blends from the south of France especially are pure bang-for-your-buck goodness: crushable, often medium in body, with less overt oak and at a great price (many on our shelves are under $20!). For a great place to start, I recommend one of our top-selling reds: Claude Val 2018 Rouge Pays d’Oc, France ($13.99)—a blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, and Merlot, or from Languedoc, France, Laurent Miquel 2017 L’Artisan ($18.99)—Syrah and Grenache, with zero oak. For a South African twist on a Rhone Valley tradition, try Juno 2019 SMV from the Western Cape ($17.99)—a blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre, and Viognier. —Rob Stansel QUESTIONS FOR OUR SOMMELIERS? TEXT (9 AM-9 PM): 204.400.0499 @JONESWINEMERCHANTS @JONESMERCH1
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jones & company
Emily Palmer
Liv Hewitt
Andrew Fast
Linda Muirhead
Robin MacKenzie
Kristhine Guerrero
Annie Quinton
Emily Fedyk
Carly Johnston and Chris Minaker
18 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
Jesse Vreeken
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Simone Lambos
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JonesWines.com 19
SHOP LOCAL, GLOBALLY
Break Out of Your Wine Rut! By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET
How do you know if you are “stuck in a rut”? Do you always order the same item at a restaurant (the classic chicken tenders)? Are you constantly wearing the same black outfits (or, these days, the same pair of sweatpants)? Now, consider the wines you drink: are you always drawn to the same producer or style? Are you picking up the same bottle (or case) of wine each time you come in? In the midst of a year where each day bleeds into the next, perhaps it is time for your wine collection to receive the feng shui that the rest of your home projects are benefitting from. In the wine industry, we see many regular customers get stuck in wine ruts. People are not willing to bet their $20 that this strange bottle I’m holding up is going to be as good, if not better, than their usual selection—and I understand that. But we’re here to get you out of the rut! I promise, there’s so much more to the wine world than your current go-to wines. When we examine classic wines, it is often the structure that makes us love them—the acidity, tannins, dryness levels, and texture. The fruit character is built around these elements. When customers ask for new styles, we consider what wines they enjoy and suggest wines that have a similar structure. The benefit of shopping with Jones & Company is that you have access to all corners of the globe: our wine buyers “shop local, globally,” sourcing from smaller familyowned vineyards in some of the best plots of land in the world. The smaller wineries have less money to spend on marketing, which is why they sometimes get passed over for the big guys you see advertising. But because smaller producers put everything they have into a wine, they often put out higher-quality wines at the same price points. Starting with a list of classic styles, we offer here a few suggestions from smaller wine producers that you can explore. You can also try new styles on your own with a few tips to broaden the collection of wines you bring to the table. 20 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
1. When you order from your favourite restaurant, ask your server to select a bottle for you. Wine lists should be chosen specifically to pair with the food, and within that, certain wines are specially selected to go with certain dishes. They might choose a style you have disliked before but, with the right food, can become one you really enjoy. 2. Consider your dislikes as well as your likes. Take two seconds to snap a photo and write down a few notes about wines you try. It will help narrow down options when you come in for a new bottle. 3. Keep an open mind. Far too often, people say: “Anything but Chardonnay.” You may have tried a style of that wine you are not a fan of, but to use this example, Chardonnay styles are all very different depending on the winemaker or the region where they are grown. Don’t let one bad experience eliminate an entire grape variety! 4. Find someone who is educated that has similar tastes. This is a big one. The Sommeliers at Jones & Company have studied every style and can offer great suggestions. However, we also have personal preferences. Finding a Sommelier with the same passion you have for certain styles might be the key to trying new wines. Call us, text a Sommelier, or come in and ask questions—we are here to help. Give us some time to learn your preferences—it is just like finding a hairstylist who gives you just the right cut. 5. Like our brick and mortar store, our online store now has new categories! From smooth and sexy, bold, and natural, you can narrow down the options to find the right style and price. You might find your favourite wine next to something you never thought to try before. There is a world of wine out there—literally. Use your wine glass to travel to new places (since it looks like we are home for a while).
If you like Cabernet Sauvignon try:
If you like Merlot try:
If you like Syrah try:
If you like Pinot Noir try:
Big & Bold
Alpha Estate 2016 Hedgehog Xinomavro Amyndeon, Greece ($26.99)
Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Noi 4 Rosso Tuscany, Italy ($46.99)
Pirramimma 2017 Petit Verdot McLaren Vale, Australia ($32.99)
Terra Costantino 2018 Etna Rosso Sicily, Italy ($34.99)
Earthy & Funky
Jonc Blanc 2017 Fruit Blend Cabernet/Malbec/Merlot, South of France ($25.99)
Monteraponi 2018 Chianti Classico, Italy ($31.99)
Renner and Mitges 2017 Superglitzer Blaufränkisch/ Zweigelt/Saint Laurent/ Roesler, Neusiedlersee, Austria ($26.99)
Judith Beck 2016 Zweigelt, Austria ($22.99)
Fruity & Forward
Ventisquero 2017 Grey Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile ($24.99)
Remo Farina 2017 Ripasso Valpolicella Veneto, Italy ($23.99)
Les Copains d’Abord 2017 Le Premier Soir Gamay Burgundy, France ($24.99)
Domaines des Homs 2019 Cinsault LanguedocRoussillon, France ($18.99)
Smooth & Sexy
A.A. Badenhorst 2019 The Curator Red Blend Swartland, South Africa ($18.99)
Menhir 2018 Primitivo di Manduria Puglia, Italy ($20.99)
Spier Wines 2019 Pinotage/ Shiraz Western Cape, South Africa ($12.99)
Akilia 2016 Mencia Bierzo, Spain ($19.99)
J. Bouchon 2019 Viejo Pais Red Maule Valley, Chile ($32.99)
Aroa 2018 Le Naturel Tinto Rioja, Spain ($21.99)
Armonia 2016 Gioia Rosso Veneto, Italy ($34.99)
Alpha Box & Dice 2018 Tarot Grenache, South Australia ($27.99)
If you like Pinot Grigio try:
If you like Sauvignon Blanc try:
If you like Chardonnay try:
If you like Riesling try:
Rich & Round
Montunale 2018 Montunal Lugana Bianco Lombardy, Italy ($24.99)
Terlan 2018 Terlaner White Blend Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy 2018 ($34.99)
Paul Mas 2018 La Forge Marsanne Languedoc Roussillon, France ($18.99)
Lingenfelder 2015 Ypsilon Sylvaner Pfalz, Germany ($37.99)
Natural & Organic
Franz Weninger 2018 Vom Kalk Fumint Burgenland, Austria ($34.99)
Armonia 2018 Brio Pop Bianco Veneto, Italy ($18.99)
Alheit Vineyards 2016 Cartology Chenin Blanc/ Semillon Walker Bay, South Africa ($43.99)
Davide Xodo 2018 Nina White Blend Veneto, Italy ($32.99)
Zesty & Light
Adega Cooperativa de Penalva 2019 Indigena White Blend Dao, Portugal ($14.99)
Rabl 2019 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner Kamptal, Austria ($19.99)
Bat Gara 2017 Uno Taxakoli, Spain ($21.99)
Amalaya 2018 Torrontés/ Riesling Salta, Argentina ($17.99)
Fruity & Fun
Domaine Rollin 2017 Aligoté Burgundy, France ($25.99)
Poggio Anima 2018 Gabriel Pecorino Abruzzo, Italy ($17.99)
Bodega Zarate 2017 Albariño Rias Baixas, Spain ($26.99)
Sogrape nv Espiral Vinho Verde, Portugal ($14.99)
Natural & Organic
JonesWines.com 21
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226 ST. MARY’S ROAD, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, R2H 1J3
NEW, OLD CULTURE: THE WINNIPEG RESTAURANT By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier
Live music at The Common at The Forks (photo courtesy of The Forks)
Elsa Taylor, co-owner of The Roost on Corydon, The Oxbow Natural Wine Bar and Restaurant on South Osbourne and Forth Bar in the Exchange (photo courtesy of Elsa Taylor)
Family celebrations at Wasabi Sabi on Taylor (photo by Pauline Boldt)
Restaurants, bars, and eateries of all sorts have been the settings for first dates and long goodbyes; for weddings and anniversaries; for happy celebrations and wakes; for business encounters and gatherings of old friends. The experience of shared food and drink outside of our homes is so profoundly part of the fabric of human experience that we can struggle to articulate its importance. The past year has made that importance very clear.
short as a 20-minute drive. Layered on this backdrop are a host of ambitious and creative chefs, culinary teams, and restaurateurs who have been willing to invest in the city and its people. One of Winnipeg’s most renowned restaurateurs is Doug Stephen, president of WOW! Hospitality. WOW’s varied restaurant portfolio was created from Doug’s goal to
Eating out is not new. In Europe, the restaurant was first a necessity for travellers, pilgrims, or migrants who needed sustenance on their journey. The restaurant as we know it today began to take form only in the late 18th century and expanded significantly following the French revolution. (We can imagine the want ads from 1800: Experienced chef for hire: bosses lost their heads.) The very word “restaurant” derives from the French restaurer which means to restore or revive. For humans, this restoration is more than just eating: as creatures of meaning and social connection, we share meals and drink as part of our family experience, our cultural identity, and our sense of belonging. The restaurant has smoothed that experience and evolved into a meeting place, neighbourhood dining room, centre of delight, and symbol of special occasion. From cultural traditions that span the globe and also celebrate our prairie home, Winnipeg has long enjoyed an enviable range of varied restaurant choices. The city is surrounded by rich agricultural resources. Moreover, Winnipeg’s size means that “farm to table” can be as
529 Wellington’s iconic dining room at the historic Ashdown House on Wellington Crescent (photo courtesy of WOW! Hospitality)
JonesWines.com 25
La Roca’s downtown two-level patio (photo courtesy of La Roca)
offer distinctive experiences, specially curated wine lists, and extraordinary hospitality. An important anchor is 529 Wellington steakhouse, which has received multiple awards, including the prestigious Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence. “Whatever our concept,” Doug says, “we know that every life experience is marked by people getting together around food and drink. Restaurants gather us around that shared experience and let us enjoy those events even more. We always want our guests to have confidence they will experience great ambiance, food, and service.” Another leader in the city’s wine and drinks scene is Elsa Taylor, who led The Roost to become a Winnipeg drinks destination before expanding her reach to The Oxbow Natural Wine Bar and Restaurant and Forth Bar. The special brand of hospitality served up in her establishments is legendary. “I always loved the theatrical, elegant experience of creating cocktails and have wanted to offer a place where it is casual yet special,” she says. “The bar gives a different sort of conviviality and liveliness, and people love the theatrics!” Even the experience of a casual drink with a friend takes on a ceremonial significance. As she says, the bartender can “take us out of ourselves” by crafting something that is both beautiful and delicious.
26 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
The challenges of COVID-19 restrictions have been immense. Our social connections are not the only casualty. Restaurant staff who have been largely casual, hourly-paid workers, have been extremely hard hit. Businesses that supply restaurants have seen huge impacts. (At Jones & Company, for example, restaurants represent half of the entire business.) The solution has been to transform the meeting places of family and community into caterers for the private home. Most eateries have transformed food and wine menus to accommodate curbside pickup or home delivery. Some have also kept staff employed for deliveries, serving the home rather than the table. Restaurateurs have worked with customers to create virtual shared experiences. Many wine lists have been streamlined to make it easy to select a wine with the dinner order. Bar owners have experienced huge obstacles to stay afloat. Food and wine can be organized for offsite enjoyment, but it is against the law in Manitoba to deliver a cocktail. In the face of this reality, Elsa Taylor has used her trademark creativity to work on a collaboration between Patent 5 distillery and Forth Bar. Winnipeggers can now enjoy a made-in-Winnipeg pre-packaged cocktail for home delivery.
Creativity is in the DNA of chefs and restaurateurs, who have worked to provide new offerings as well as revised favourites. “There are a lot of great ideas out there for home dining,” says Doug Stephen. However, they need the rest of us to embrace their good ideas.
Bar-top dining at Rae’s Bistro, East Kildonan (photo by Ian McCausland)
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Restrictions of the past year have changed food and drink hospitality profoundly. At its core, though, is the culture of shared meals, helping define us as humans in relationships with one another. Those who have traditionally provided that hospitality have been actively re-imagining themselves. The setting may have changed, but the restaurant is still central to our culture, taking us out of ourselves and smoothing our connections. And that is something we all need.
BEHIND THE LABEL
Bacio Divino By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Bacio divino, “divine kiss,” evokes the sun’s kiss of the vineyard, Bacchus’s kiss of the winemaker, and wine’s kiss upon the lips. Bacio Divino is the inspiration of Claus Janzen, whose itinerant youth took him to the alpine ski slopes of Switzerland, to wine explorations in Provence, to an early career in commercial real estate in Winnipeg, to local renown as top taster in The Opimian Society, and to a fateful visit in the late-1980s to Napa Valley. There he met critically acclaimed rising star Chuck Wagner of Caymus Vineyards. They hit it off, and, when Claus suggested that he could grow Chuck’s international wine sales, he ended up moving his young family to Napa Valley to begin a new career. Bacio, I can make it the way I want…I can take a barrel or two of To Kalon, some Cloudy’s (estate vineyard), I can take some Georges III, I can take from wherever I want to make Bacio. It’s stuff that I love doing. —Claus Janzen In 1993, Chuck offered Claus the chance to make a wine from some excess Sangiovese to which he could blend in anything else from Caymus. Claus liked the idea of making a wine distinct from those of Caymus, observed that Super Tuscan wines were the rage, and embraced a non-conformist approach. Meanwhile, Claus and family (wife Diane, son Kyle, and daughter Risa) bought a remote 60-acre property on the east side of Napa Valley. Three small vineyards, 10 acres in total, were planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. In time, grapes from these “estate” vineyards joined those sourced from the Beckstoffer Heritage vineyards (To Kalon, Georges III, and Missouri Hopper), all among the most esteemed sites of Napa Valley. Bacio Divino represents the best blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from hillside (estate) and valley floor (Beckstoffer) vineyards with small additions of Sangiovese and sometimes other grapes. It is aged in top-quality new French oak that adds spice and complexity to create a master work that combines the intensity of Napa Valley with the finesse, elegance and complexity of a fine Burgundy or Bordeaux. Bacio Divino’s second wine—and best seller—Pazzo (Call me Crazy) has a solid core of Sangiovese with diverse blending partners that depend upon the vintage. On his first tasting with 28 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
Bacio Divino wines from left to right: Bacio Divino 2018 Pazzo (Call me Crazy) Red Blend, Napa Valley ($53.99); Bacio Divino 2017 Proprietary Red, Napa Valley ($182.99); Bacio Divino 2011 Janzen Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($247.99)
Claus, famous wine critic Robert Parker exclaimed “Call me crazy!” and it stuck. Parker later called Pazzo “the perfect bistro wine,” repeatedly extolled it as one of Napa’s best values, and gushed about how yummy it is. Bacio Divino also makes single-vineyard wines under the eponymous Janzen label. These are classic Napa Valley Cabernets with power and intensity created as expressions of the vineyard. Both Claus and son Kyle draw an important distinction between the Janzen wines and the Bacio Divino blended wines. They say that the Janzen wines reflect the style of their long-time consulting winemaker Kirk Venge, whereas Claus’s European sensibilities are more apparent in the blended wines. I think further research into this subject is required, and I would be happy to be the first volunteer in the study. Kyle Janzen now helms Bacio Divino day-to-day, but acknowledges, “My dad is the kind of guy that will never fully retire.” Kyle calls 2020 an “interesting year” while Claus calls it “crazy”—in reference to the dual challenges of COVID-19 and the bush fires that threatened the valley twice this past growing season. Claus tells of the fires that threatened their property, burned some out buildings, and how their home was saved. Both confirm that they will make less wine in 2020—quality will not be compromised—and how fortunate it is that the 2018 vintage wines are outstanding and plentiful. Asked about their links to the Prairies, Winnipeg-born Kyle admits that Manitoba is still his home. “I kind of have two homes now—it really is a special connection.” Claus’s roots in Winnipeg are also deep: “One develops primary friendships when you are young. When I left Winnipeg at the age of 44, I left many, many good friends—still my most important friends. I have a deep, deep connection to Winnipeg.”
Modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean cuisine combined with warm hospitality make dining at Beaujena’s special, regardless of the occasion.
From when we walked in the door to when we walked out, your place was the definition of class and quality. From the hospitality to the food, we were thoroughly impressed.
Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings By reservation only In the heart of St. Boniface at 302 Hamel Ave.
—Joel, Winnipeg
www.beaujenas.com | 204.233.4841 | beaujena@shaw.ca
WOW IS WINNIPEG!
Charleswood
There’s no better way to experience Winnipeg than with WOW Hospitality. WOW has been a part of Winnipeg’s culinary landscape for over 25 years. Our awardwinning chefs offer a variety of cuisine styles, and we are an intrinsic part of every neighbourhood that welcomes us. We inspire Winnipeggers to explore new corners of the city in their quest to be our guest. Thank you to Winnipeg for all of your support.
alenakitchen.com 204.944.8748
Charleswood
Culture, Creativity, Cuisine.
bluestonecottage.ca 204.944.8751
River Heights
529wellington.ca 204.487.8325
Exchange District
peasantcookery.ca 204.989.7700
Kildonan Park
prairiesedgewpg.ca 204.284.7275
Manitoba-wide
wowcatering.ca 204.452.1422
THE REINVENTION OF AN INDUSTRY:
an interview with Véronique Rivest Interview by Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Véronique Rivest represents the pinnacle of the Sommelier profession. She won Canada’s Best Sommelier competition in 2006 and in 2012; the Wine Woman Award 2007 in Paris; and Best Sommelier of the Americas in 2012. She became the first woman to make the podium by taking second place at the World’s Best Sommelier competition in Tokyo in 2013. In addition to being the wine columnist for La Presse newspaper, she writes for numerous magazines, is a regular speaker and guest on television and radio, and lectures around the world. Véronique has worked with Winnipeg businesses, including curating the wine list for The Common at The Forks. Since 2017, she has been Air Canada’s official sommelier, selecting wines for all of the airline’s business class flights. In 2014 she opened Soif Bar à Vin wine bar in Gatineau, a place to share and learn about wine. Soif was named among the Ten Best New Restaurants in Canada in 2015.
Véronique Rivest (VR) As a Sommelier and a wine professional, there are so many paths to explore—and that’s what I’ve always thought was fascinating about wine. What I love about my life is, with wine, you can do so many things. It’s so varied; when people ask me to describe a normal day, that always makes me laugh. There’s no such thing as a normal day. So, of course, the repercussions of the crisis are manyfold. I have my restaurant, Soif, and I have means as a writer, consultant, and educator. Most of what I do is writing and educational— like I did with The Forks or with private companies for events— that part has actually been going very well. We just switched to virtual. I can write from anywhere around the world, so that hasn’t changed.
With over 30 years in the hospitality and retail industries, wine education and consulting, she is uniquely positioned to talk about how hard the last 10 months have been on our industries. Sylvia Jansen caught up with her through—what else?—video conference.
I loved the confinement in the first weeks. I just love to be locked in and forced to do nothing. Because my husband is with the federal government, he didn’t lose his job. But we realized, oh my God, what were we doing, working crazy stupid hours? It is what we say in French, le temps retrouvé: it is time that we have found again. It was a great revelation at the very beginning, in March, April. And then obviously, there’s the rough part. Soif struggled a lot.
Sylvia Jansen (SJ) You are a very busy person. You work with Air Canada, you write, you consult, and you have this incredible bar and restaurant, Soif Bar à Vin. Tell me, how have things been for you?
SJ In Manitoba, our restaurants have needed to pivot and pivot again, with restrictions, shut-downs, and more. How have things been for you in Gatineau and for your colleagues in Quebec?
32 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
VR It’s been the same. It’s been on and off. We closed down the bar in March in full lockdown for three months. We reopened in the summer. Summer went very well, and then we shut down again in early October in Quebec. When we reopened, we all had huge smiles on our faces for the entire day, just to see our customers. We practiced hospitality as we always do. Hospitality is a lot about a relationship, not necessarily a product, so it’s absolutely more difficult to do when you’re in takeout mode. We’re engaging in that relationship with customers differently: online, email, phone, but we’re still having that wine conversation and that food conversation. We’re making custom menus for takeout. Wines have tasting notes with food recommendations, so you can buy some wine and have our tasting notes. You can buy some wine and organize a tasting; we’ll meet you on Zoom and lead the tasting. I often say—half-jokingly—that we’re working 10 times harder for 10 times less revenue.
In the first three months in lockdown, I became a lobbyist about our liquor laws. I was in contact with our politicians, on phone and video conferences with government ministers. In Quebec, there are two types of permits: restaurant or bar permits. I took the bar permit because, by law, if you want to allow guests to be able to only have a drink without eating, you need a bar permit. If you have a restaurant permit, they can only drink if they’re eating. Basically, in Quebec, if you have the bar permit, you’re considered like a criminal or a strip club. The minute you take out a bar permit, you get a visit from the police. At Soif, we were prohibited from doing takeout! So we lost six weeks of food takeout. Then another six weeks of wine takeout. We had to fight for every single right to do anything.
SJ We also had to fight in Manitoba for our restaurants to be able to offer wine for takeout—and we were among the last provinces to have it approved. A number of our restaurants have focused on the wine list The thing about reinventing yourself a lot more. Did you change is—I don’t hate it. I think it’s exciting. your wine list at all?
The thing about reinventing yourself is—I don’t hate it. I think it’s exciting. We should We should probably at least think about VR Wine has always been probably at least think it more often. But it’s the fact that we our specialty. And 95% of about it more often. But it’s our wine list is privately the fact that we keep asking keep asking this cruise ship to make a imported. A lot of the wines this cruise ship to make a 90-degree turn. that we want to showcase 90-degree turn. Normally, if are only available in smaller you develop a new product, quantities or lesser-known. So when we could finally sell wine you put some thought into it: What are we going to do? How to go, we didn’t have to change anything about our wine list. are we going to do it? We think it out; we practice it. So we had We’ve always had a very strong presence with unique wines to go online and make e-commerce user-friendly—but we only that you cannot find elsewhere in retail. had 48 hours to do it! And once it’s in place, it lasts for a few weeks, a few months—and boom! We have to change again. SJ A lot of people comment about the apparently high markWe’re trying our best. The toughest is the total uncertainty. ups for wine in restaurants. What are the added costs for serving wines rather than just sending the bottle out the door? SJ How have you managed the transition from in-person hospitality to online? VR A little part of me dies inside every time somebody tells me we’re expensive. And yet, we’re not making money. How VR We’re not e-commerce specialists. We went on our can we be expensive? I’m underpaying my employees and reservation platform, and they were amazing. We were closed, still not making money. People want local. They want fresh. so they turned around within 24 hours and offered e-commerce They want it, but they’re not willing to pay for it. Forty solutions. It’s not the most user-friendly e-commerce website, or fifty years ago, you could make a decent living with a but for us, it’s life-saving. restaurant—since then, profit margins have significantly declined. The prices of everything have gone up, but SJ People working in restaurants are some of the most consumers are so sensitive to the price of food and the price vulnerable workers because they’re operating on hourly salaries of wine, there’s a problem. without benefits or pension plans. Meanwhile, employers run on a thin margin, much thinner than most people realize. How Wine is the same as mark-up for everything else, notably do you manage that? food. People think: I can get chicken for $XX at the grocery store, why would I pay this price for a chicken dish? Well, VR That is the problem: the fragility of our industry. The crisis obviously, we bought the chicken (and most times have has highlighted so many things that are wrong with our society, developed a close relationship with the producer), stored like our health system. And I hope that as a society, we all learn it, transformed it, plated it, served it. That’s part one. Then from it and don’t forget too quickly. JonesWines.com 33
obviously, it is served by professionals who will tell you about it, its provenance, how it’s raised/made, and why. And add in all the overhead: the kitchen equipment and tools to make the food; the glasses, the plates, cutlery, and linen to serve it; the labour to prepare and serve the food and wine, then wash the dishes; the rent; the utilities; insurance; and so on and so on. And still, it’s not enough to pay our employees decent wages! SJ Do you think this is going to turn things around, or are people going to return to where we were? VR I tend to be a very optimistic person, and I don’t want to sound negative, but you know, this is the first of many more to come. We were lucky, right? Our generation didn’t live through a world war or the Great Depression. All of the generations before us went through something pretty big, and we hadn’t! There will be more, and hopefully each time, we can learn from it. If every small business can reinvent themselves, well, we should as a society too. Or governments should do that same exercise: How did we get here? What was not done well? And what could we have done better? And there’s so much room for improvement in health, education, and for me personally, liquor laws across the country!
SJ If you could snap your fingers and say, these are the rules that should change, that will help everybody in the industry, including vulnerable hospitality workers, what would it be? VR If we could only get a wholesale price on the wine we sell, it would save the restaurant industry. I could finally pay my workers a decent wage—people who work so hard and who are passionate about what they do. I have a hard time paying 20 bucks an hour without paying benefits whatsoever. In what other industry does a reseller not have a wholesale price? The thing I love most about the restaurant is creating a place where others can fulfill themselves, career-wise. For me to see some of the employees at Soif succeed and have a fulfilling career in life, that’s the grandest thing. But it’s my biggest struggle, every day. My chef has a young family with two small kids. I’ll go out and personally pay a dentist bill, but I can’t afford healthcare for my employees. It’s ridiculous. A lot of them are making minimum wage. I am not in it to make a fortune; I’m in it for a fulfilling career for me and for other people. If I can make people grow and succeed and have a successful career in this industry, that’s a huge accomplishment. If I can have slightly bigger margins that helped me offer them better conditions, that would make a huge difference.
(Good) Cheese Makes People Happy Ordering your favourite cheese + goods is easier than ever. Visit our website – thecheesemongers.ca– for a unique selection of cheese and provisions. • Cut to order cheese counter • Gift Boxes • Cheese, Charcuterie and Grazing Boards • Exclusive provisions and pantry items • Cheesewares, including handmade boards, knives, raclette machines and fondue sets • At-home-tasting kits
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March is Chardonnay month in memory of Rebecca Lechman (1977-2020) Shop Chardonnay at joneswines.com/shop
It has been one year since Rebecca passed away, and we think about her every day. To honour her memory, every March is Chardonnay month (big and dirty were her favourite). For the month of March, $5 from each bottle of Chardonnay sold up to $5000 will go into an education fund for her precious niece Aneska. Please join us in raising a glass of Chardonnay for Rebecca.
Photo by Ian McCausland
GARY’S CORNER
The Cost of Wine By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, SWS, Sommelier
The Manitoba Liquor Control Commission (MLCC) was established in 1923 in an environment rife with temperance. The Government Liquor Control Act, 1923, with Amendments 1924, was keenly focussed on the control and regulation of liquor distribution and sales. Among the basic powers granted to the MLCC was the ability to set liquor prices. As time passed, hefty taxation became justified to provide funds to offset the health and societal costs incurred from alcohol consumption. In more recent times, the mandate expanded to include funding for education, social services, housing, and infrastructure. In this context, the levy is a “societal” or “sin” tax and even a “corrective tax” designed to limit liquor consumption. As a society, we have agreed to place high taxes on liquor. The major Manitoba Liquor & Lotteries (MBLL) markup (they refrain from calling it a tax) is a straight percentage markup on all products within a category. Several other markups of lower impact are also added, and PST and GST are added at the till. In my 22 years as a wine buyer, there have been no significant or lasting changes to this liquor taxation strategy in Manitoba. In Manitoba, markups vary with the category of beverage—beer, wine, and spirits being the big three. All wines, for example, are subject to a 95% provincial markup applied to the total of the purchase price paid to the supplier, transportation costs, and federal excise tax and duty. The markup applies whether these costs total $5 or $50 per bottle: the markup adds $4.70 to the $5 bottle and $47.50 to the $50 bottle. The amount of markup grows proportionally with the price of the wine, turning many moderately priced wines into luxury products, exclusive to the wealthy. The MBLL has the ability to modify the taxation structure and still generate the same revenues. To
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cite Alberta as an example, a fixed provincial tax of $3.91 per litre is applied no matter how much the wine costs. The Alberta tax on the $5 and $50 bottles in our example would add a mere $2.93 per bottle in both instances. This massively reduces the surcharge on the more expensive wine. Other jurisdictions apply a basic markup up to a certain cost, and then a lower rate (or rates) as costs increase. Both alternatives place greater emphasis on taxing the volume of alcohol (the original and insinuated ongoing purpose of the regulations) and less emphasis on taxing the cost of the wine. Why does this matter? There are several reasons. One, Manitobans eager to explore today’s diverse wine world or collect wines face a punitive luxury tax. Two, because specialty and fine wines are unduly expensive, “affordable” mass-produced products tilt the market towards boring homogeneity. And three, wine-destination restaurants lack access to a greater diversity of wines from which to create great wine lists. Manitoba restaurants are further penalized because they generally pay full retail for wine rather than receiving a wholesale price. As a result, wine lists may appear expensive when, in fact, Manitoba restaurant markups are in line with or, in many cases, even lower than other jurisdictions. As a wine lover, I would be delighted to see an adjusted taxation system that makes “interesting” wines more accessible. As a restaurant patron, I would love to see more diverse and more affordable wine lists. Granted, tax reform can be contentious because of the many vested interests, but the potential to support a hospitality industry that often works on razor-thin margins makes reform worthwhile. Imagine creative taxation that reduces restaurant wine costs so that Winnipeg and Manitoba cultivate a restaurant wine culture that attracts tourism. Now wouldn’t that be a pretty picture for our hospitality future?
NOW OPEN:
MOTTOLA GROCERY
in True North Square
Winnipeg is home, and downtown is our heart. We saw the need for an experience like no other in the new True North Square. A place where you can meet, share a coffee or glass of wine. Pick up a quick lunch, or gourmet dinner on the way home. Flowers for your sweetheart. A last-minute gift for that friend who loves curated authenticity. Academy Group of Companies has been feeding Winnipeg for over 10 years. Our goal is to make you feel like family. Now with Mottola Grocery, you can shop like we shop, and join our family at your table or ours. Mottola Grocery at Hargrave Street Market in True North Square. Now open to serve you.
MottolaGrocery.com
Left: SMITH Restaurant, The Roost, Peasant Cookery; right: The Alt Hotel & The Merchant Kitchen
RESTAURANT SOS:
HELPING OUR COMMUNITY SURVIVE By Lisa Muirhead and Jill Kwiatkowski, Sommelier (CAPS) The restaurant industry is renowned for being one of the toughest roads to success, even in the best of times. Winnipeg, in particular, is a very challenging market, simply because our food culture is a thriving blend of prestige cuisine and down-home comfort food. Winnipeg celebrates its elder statesmen—the restaurants that have been around forever—as well as the new familyrun and trending restaurants that pop up every year. We are blessed with an incredibly diverse population that has opened thousands of family-owned restaurants that bring a world of culinary tastes to our doorsteps. We have diners and drive-ins—and we have nationally-renowned chefs that are on the cutting edge of food and drink trendsetting. 38 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
But our restaurants are in trouble. This is not news to anyone who has picked up a paper or had even a fleeting brush with social media. In November, the Manitoba Restaurant and Foodservices Association (MRFA) sent the results of an industry survey to the province to outline industry need. As of our press date, no provincial relief has been announced. Once restaurants are able to re-open, for those that survive, it will take many a year or more to recover from debt incurred during the shutdown. With input from our restaurant partners, this is intended as a guide to how to help support the recovery of Manitoba restaurants.
Restaurants are important to culture—but they are crucial to our economy. 95%
of sales go back into the economy (jobs, food and beverage purchases, charity and more).
50%
expect to permanently close by March 2021 if conditions don’t improve.
1.2 million
#1 source
people directly employed, making it Canada’s 4thlargest employer.
of first jobs for young Canadians.
80%
12%
of Manitoba restaurants had permanently closed by November 2020
31%
of restaurants are either losing money or barely scraping by.
of restaurant owners, operators and staff belong to a visible minority.
21%
of the foodservice workforce is still not working.
*stats from Restaurants Canada (December 2020) and MRFA (November 2020)
How to help: • Buy takeout! Figure out what you used to spend on eating and drinking out and redirect that money to takeout. • Buy direct! When you order takeout, call restaurants directly for pickup or use restaurants that run their own delivery service: 529 Wellington, Peasant Cookery, Rae’s Bistro, Amsterdam Tea Room + Bar, Café 22, Diana’s Cucina and Lounge, Pizzeria Gusto, King + Bannatyne, The Merchant Kitchen. • Buy gift cards! And if you can, hold off using them until restaurants are once again open to the public. • Buy wine! Restaurant wine lists are still available! If you want to pair your wine and dinner, why not trust the experts that put that wine list together? • Follow restaurants on social media! Because restaurants have had to pivot their entire business models on a dime, many are
depending on social media to keep their customers informed about new protocols, takeout menus, and features. Most are leaning heavily on Instagram, followed by Facebook. • Raise your voice! Tell your MP that you support local restaurants. It’s as easy as plugging your address into this letter: https://info.restaurantscanada.org/covid19recovery • Take to social media! Tag your MLA and the premier in a social media post to express your support. Add the hashtag #saveMBrestaurants. • Post your food snaps! Sharing photos of your food is an incredible way to express your support for your favourite restaurants. Show off your great taste and your mad amateur photography skills, and spread the word about the city’s best kept secrets—or old favourites your friends may have forgotten about.
8:34 PM
The moment you reconnected. Celebrate your love with a romantic Kiss & Wake Up escape – complete with sparkling wine, chocolate covered strawberries, a delicious breakfast for two in the comfort of your room, late check out of 3 pm, and complimentary self-parking for one vehicle. PROMO CODE: PRKIS1 For reservations or more information, please contact (204)957-1350, or email at lom.dutymanager@fairmont.com. Fairmont.com/Winnipeg
MANITOBA WINTER BINGO We would love to see your winter fun! Post your #MBWinterBingo events and tag @joneswinemerchants and the restaurant you supported!
Skating at The Forks followed by small plates by SMITH Restaurant + Laurent Miquel Rosé (France)
In-Room Gastronomy at The Alt Hotel, which includes a 3-course dinner from The Merchant Kitchen @althotel @themerchantkitchen
@smithwinnipeg @theforkswinnipeg
Dinner and a movie: The Godfather with Gusto North + Baglio Oro Dei Respiri Nero d’Avola (Sicily)
Winter BBQ: Backyard skating followed by a BBQ pack from Peasant Pantry + Chateau St. Antoine Red Bordeaux Superieur (France)
@gustonorthwpg @peasantcookerywpg
Jones & Co Tour Italy Virtual Wine tasting (March 5 or 26) + Monticchio Ristorante Italiano
A hike through Bois-des-Esprit trails followed by a pizza from Diana’s Cucina and Lounge (they even have gluten free!) + Tolaini Al Passo (Tuscany)
@monticchioswinnipeg
Dancing (in your dining room) followed by 529 Wellington’s prime rib + Xanthos Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
A ski or hike at Beaudry Park followed by Alena Bistecca Fiorentina + Reassi Sparviere Cabernet/ Cabernet Franc (Italy)
@529wellingtonwpg
@alenawinnipeg
Afternoon cross-country ski at Bird’s Hill followed by Jonesy’s ribs + Don Ramon Garnacha/ Tempranillo (Spain) @jonesysrestaurant @plain.bicycle
Online poker night with Tony Roma’s Ribs and Wings + Majella The Musician Cabernet Shiraz (Australia) @romaribswpg
@dianas_cucina_and_lounge
Tobogganing at Harbourview Park (Hwy 59) followed by Rae’s Bistro cheesecake + Bianco Nero Prosecco (Italy)
Snowshoeing at FortWhyte Alive followed by takeout + Mama’s Sangria Kit from Joey Kenaston @fortwhytealive @joeyrestaurants
@raesbistro
A walk in Assiniboine Forest followed by Preservation Hall’s Board & Bottle Bundle (charcuterie or plant-based) @preservationhall.eatery.wine
Fat Bike ride in Whittier Park followed by pasta from Mitchell Block + Craft Tea Cocktails from Amsterdam Tea Room + Bar @themitchellblock @amsterdamtearoomandbar @woodcockcycle
Massage at Thermea followed by their takeout Pickerel Smørrebrod + Yali Wild Swan Sauvignon Blanc
Dog walk at Garbage Hill followed by Earls Polo Park + Civettina Super Tuscan (Italy)
@thermeawinnipeg
@earlsrestaurant
Ski and snowshoe rentals: Plain Bicycle Project https://www.plainbicycle.org/tread-softly-glide-far/ Fort Whyte Alive https://www.fortwhyte.org/ Fat Bike rentals: Woodcock Cycle and Ski: https://www.woodcockcycle.com/
40 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
Thank you to our amazing clients for all your support during an unprecedented time.
Introducing your new
Grano a Grano Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles Topped all California Cabernets between $20-$30 in a blind taste test by 5 Sommeliers Available exclusively at Jones & Company Wine Merchants Buy online at joneswines.com/shop
The charcuterie board at SMITH Restaurant (photo courtesy of SMITH Restaurant)
Luxury To Go: The New Fine Dining The hospitality industry has shown incredible resilience in the face of unprecedented challenges. The have reduced their seating capacity, pivoted to takeout, retooled menus and wine lists, and developed in-house delivery systems in a bid to keep up with the outpouring of support that Manitobans have shown for local businesses, They have had to create new ways to express their culinary vision and get the word out in a virtual market that is filled with the voices of every other local business just trying to be heard. Many are making difficult decisions every day about how to keep their staff employed while keeping the lights on the and rent paid.
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This feature is an ode to the creativity, spirit, and dedication the hospitality community has shown that continues to inspire us. Challenged by the fact that our talented photographer, Ian McCausland, was unable to work on this issue, Jones & Company restaurant partners sent us pictures of feature dishes that you can order (by takeout, and hopefully by the time you are reading this, in-person dining). Then, the Jones & Company Sommeliers set to work finding the perfect pairing for each of these dishes. Wines that are available on the restaurant wines lists are marked with an * and the others you can find at Jones & Company Wine Merchants, either in store or online at joneswines.com/shop.
529 Wellington
22 oz Porterhouse Steak and Lobster / Argot 2014 Hawk Hill Pinot Noir (Napa Valley, USA)* The traditional surf and turf can be tricky to pair. You want to equally enhance both portions of the dish and have a harmonious balance. The Argot Hawk Hill Pinot Noir has a deep intensity with an elegance that can bring land and sea together. Sweet maple and soft fruit in the wine allow the lobster to show off its sweet meatiness, while the focused core creates an intensity that will meld well with the steak. The 2014 is now showing developing notes that add another layer of complexity to the experience. —Ricki-Lee Podolecki 529wellington.ca
Photo by Steve Salinkowski
Alena Rustic Italian
Traditional Porcetta with seasoned rosemary, black pepper, garlic, fennel / La Ragnaie 2017 Troncone Rosso (Tuscany, Italy)* This juicy- savoury, boneless pork roast spends hours on a rotisserie absorbing all the smoky goodness the oak fire has to offer. The Troncone is 100% Sangiovese: elegant with ripe red cherry flavours, herbs, and a hint of tobacco. The freshness of the wine rips through the richness of the pork while the flavours bring it all back together. —Todd Antonation alenakitchen.com
Amsterdam Tea Room + Bar
Hutspot Dumplings with kale, sauerkraut, cashew cream, garlic chili oil, and crispy onions / Judith Beck 2018 Ink Zweigelt/Blaufränkish (Austria) The dumplings are earthy, nutty, squishy goodness. The kale and sauerkraut would flatten out most lighter-bodied white wines and amplify astringency. These flavours need some sweetness, or a fruity red (not an oaky one). In this case, a natural, lightly funky, fresh red with soft tannins and no oak works wonderfully: the fruit rounds out the bitter elements of the dish, but doesn’t overpower the subtleties of the cashew cream the way a big, bold, oaky red would. I’d down a dozen of these dumplings on the daily. —Rob Stansel amsterdamtearoom.com
Beaujena’s French Table
Tomato Tartar fresh and sun-dried tomato tartar with radish, capers, Ambrosia apple, cured egg yolk, and fennel fronds / Poggio Argentiera 2019 Vermentino (Tuscany, Italy) When I think of this pairing, I picture myself sitting on at an oceanside café in the Mediterranean. The Vermentino has hints of white flowers, crisp green apples, ocean spray, and wild herbs that marry perfectly with the tomatoes, fennel, and briny capers. The cured egg yolk is key here, as it pulls all these great flavours together and begs for another sip of this crisp white.—Todd Antonation beaujenas.com
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Bluestone Cottage
Biscuit Benny with poached eggs, ham, traditional hollandaise, a toasted biscuit, and breakfast potatoes / Ashling Park Estate nv Brut (Sussex, England) There’s richness to this dish, with protein, salt, butter, and an additional salty, smoky note from the meat. It calls for a wine that has both a notable presence on the palate and a refreshing acidity. Sparkling wine fits the bill nicely, and a special wine like Ashling Park Estate’s Brut English sparkling wine will turn this dish into an art form. —Sylvia Jansen bluestonecottage.ca
Cibo Waterfront Café
Double Pepperoni Pizza with dry cured pepperoni, smoked provolone, mozzarella, and chili garlic crust / Montes 2017 Classic Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley, Chile)* When you’re craving a rich, meaty, cheesy pizza like this beauty from Cibo, the perfect wine to compliment it is the Montes Classic Series Cabernet from my beloved country, Chile. I am a huge Chilean wine fan, but this winery in particular makes absolutely stunning wines! The earthiness and deep juicy red fruit notes pair perfectly with the rich meatiness of the dry cured pepperoni and complements the smoked provolone and garlic in the crust beautifully. Winner winner pizza dinner! —Jill Kwiatkoski cibowaterfrontcafe.com
D-Jay’s & Ichabod’s Food & Drink
Mediterranean Twist Pizza a base of provolone cheese, D-Jay’s original sauce and crust topped with spinach, capocollo ham, red onion, brie cheese and cracked pepper / Ventisquero 2018 Reserva Pinot Noir (Casablanca, Chile)* When pairing with a pizza this packed with fresh flavours, it is best to serve up a refreshing and bright wine to complement it. The Ventisquero Reserva Pinot Noir shows off notes of cherry and red fruits to balance the salty capocollo ham and brighten up the creamy brie cheese. The wine’s spice and earthy characteristics tie in a complexity that gives each bit its own personality. Enjoy this wine off of D-Jays wine list any day of the week! —Ricki-Lee Podolecki djaysrestaurant.com
Gusto North
Short Rib Ragu with wood fire mushrooms, cippolini onion, Moliterno pecorino, pappardelle / Quercia al Poggio 2017 Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy)* Chianti and short rib is a match made in heaven—especially when you’re talking about the Quercia al Poggio Chianti Classico and our short rib ragu. The vibrant acidity in the wine cuts right through the richness of the short rib, and balanced earthy tones in both the wine and the ragu really allow for the ripe, almost dried red fruit character of the Chianti to shine. —Dylan Keats, Sommelier at Gusto North gustonorth.com
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Joey Restaurants
Japanese Gyoza with hot mustard / Paul Mas 2018 La Forge Estate Reserve Marsanne (Languedoc, France) The unctuousness of this delicious South of France Marsanne is the perfect pairing to Joey’s Gyoza. The fruit-forward weightiness of this wine complements with the hint of chili and the subtle sweetness of the reduced soy. The racy acidity is the perfect counterbalance to the richness of the pork dumpling. A dreamy pairing. —Saralyn Mehta joeyrestaurants.com
Photo by Velour Productions
Junction 59 Roadhouse
Country Fried Chicken with country gravy, veggies, mashed potatoes and gravy, and corn bread / Jaume Serra nv Cristalino Cava Brut (Spain)* Sparkling with CFC? Stay with me here. An underappreciated fact: sparkling wine goes AMAZINGLY with fried foods (and many others). The zippy acidity and the fresh lemon zest of this Cava (a Spanish sparkling wine designation) are just what you need to get your mouth ready for the next mouthwatering bite of Junction 59’s signature dish. Trust me, you’ll think you’ve died and gone to food pairing heaven! —Mike Muirhead junction59roadhouse.com
Pizzeria Gusto
Pollo Cremoso Pizza with Mascarpone cream sauce, chilies, braised chicken, bacon, baby kale, sweet potato, mozzarella, cranberry thyme agrodolce, goat cheese / Kaltern 2018 K Pinot Bianco Chardonnay/ Sauvignon Blanc (Alto Adige, Italy)* A fresh white wine full of life and vivaciousness. The bright acidity of this wine will bring life and a beautiful balance to the creaminess of the Mascarpone cream sauce, the goat cheese on top, and the dough of the pizza itself. It will also compliment and brighten the flavours of all the beautiful earthy toppings (chicken, bacon, kale, and sweet potato), and the hint of juicy fruit in the wine will balance the acidity and sweetness of the cranberry thyme agrodolce. —Jill Kwiatkoski pizzeriagusto.com
Peasant Cookery
Tourtière Manitoba pork, mushrooms, potatoes, spices / Saint-Antoine 2018 Reserve du Château Bordeaux Supérieure (Bordeaux, France)* A beautiful big Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that is made for dishes just like this. Notes of black currant, dried plums, cherry, licorice, and smoky spiced notes marry with the richness of the pork and mushroom. The spiced notes in the wine match wonderfully with the hints of spice in the tourtière. This traditional French Canadian dish works in perfect harmony with this traditional Bordeaux blend. —Jill Kwiatkoski peasantcookery.ca
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PF Chang’s
Mongolian Beef with sweet soy glaze, flank steak, garlic, and snipped green onion / Alpha Box & Dice 2018 Tarot Grenache (McLaren Vale, South Australia) O là là, a dish highlighting sweetness, spice-heat, and umami on a solid protein. Intuition suggests a red wine for the beef, but the wine needs ripeness, even some sweetness, to match the glaze and tame the heat. Also, we want to avoid high tannins that are accentuated by the umami. Some Californian Zinfandels or Argentine Malbecs may fit the bill, but I suggest a fresh, spicy, low-tannin Australian Grenache with raspberry-cherry fruit intensity.—Gary Hewitt pfchangs.ca
Prairie’s Edge
Wild Boar Bolognese pappardelle with ground wild boar, red wine, San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh ricotta, and basil / Il Palazzo 2018 Chianti (Tuscany, Italy) This pairing works on so many levels. The wine has a bright red cherry component with hints of orange zest that compliments the acidity of the tomatoes while cutting through the richness of the boar. There is a slight herbal finish in the wine that adds complexity, and the smooth tannins beg for another sip. —Todd Antonation prairiesedgewpg.ca
Preservation Hall
Duck Cassoulet duck leg confit, house-made garlic sausage, white bean and pork ragout, topped with gremolata / Gerard Bertrand 2019 Syrah/ Carignan (Minervois, France) / Chateau du Trignon 2019 Viognier (Cotes du Rhone, France)* This diverse, rich, and rustic stew is remarkably wine friendly. One approach is to go traditional—the dish originated in the south of France—but put two wines on the table, a red to match the savoury complexity and a round aromatic white to complement the creamy beans. The red is a classic Syrah-Carignan blend with bright red fruits, moderate tannins and a trace of Mediterranean herbs, and the white is the aromatic born-again Rhone variety, Viognier.—Gary Hewitt preservationhall-eatery-winebar.com
SMITH Restaurant
Braised Beef Chuck Flat 7oz boneless country-style chuck short rib, salsa verde, mashed potatoes, and fresh, local vegetables / Catena 2018 Fazzio La Posta Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)* I love braised chuck—the depth of flavours that you get from slow roasting really brings out some of the best in wine. For this pairing, I picked the Fazzio La Posta Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. What grows together, goes together, and everyone knows that Argentina is known for its beef. The richness and spiciness of the Malbec are a match made in heaven for the braising technique, and personally I love it with the saucy mashed potatoes as well. —Mike Muirhead smithrestaurant.ca
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Photo by Bohdan Dyck Photography
The Merchant Kitchen
Dan Dan Noodles with bok choy, broccoli, scallion, sweet pork, spicy Sichuan sauce, peanuts / Staffelter-Hof 2017 Knackarsh Liebl Riesling (Mosel, Germany) Dan Dan Noodles is a bowl of deliciousness with a lot going on: complex sweetness, nuttiness, a little bitter dark green, and a good kick from the spice. It all calls for a wine that is fresh, light, lively, and not bone dry. Tannins from red wines ramp up the spice, so unless that’s your thing, go white. My top choice is the Staffelter Hof Knackarsch Liebl Riesling, custom-made for this style of dish. —Sylvia Jansen themerchantkitchen.com
The Mitchell Block
Siracha Infused Macaroni & Cheese with smoked saffron béchamel and cheddar / Thörle 2018 Kabinett Riesling (Reinhessen, Germany) My personal pairing philosophy is that a little heat needs a little sweet, so my dream pairing for Mitchell Block Siracha Mac and Cheese is Thörle’s 2018 Kabinett Riesling. The decadent richness and heat of the Siracha Mac and Cheese screams for the honeyed texture and fruity sweetness of this Riesling. The pop of acidity keeps the fruit fresh and lively well into the finish. This dish with this wine is perfect harmony. —Saralyn Mehta themitchellblock.ca
Photo by Alex Johnson
Thermëa by Nordik Spa-Nature
Beet bowl with beet root hummus, puréed beets, beet slices, mushroom quinoa, alfalfa sprouts, cucumber, toasted walnuts, arugula, balsamic vinaigrette. / Cape Wine Co. 2018 Frank Rosé (Darling, South Africa) This is a dish with freshness and yet textural creaminess (in a plant-based dish), lightness and weight, zing and earthiness. An important feature is that it is served at a cool room temperature—not hot. A wine with some complexity, freshness, and a bit of weight makes magic. A great choice is rosé, and Cape Wine Frank Rosé would be terrific! —Sylvia Jansen thermea.ca
Photo by Janis Banman
We get it. Many things in life are better when paired with a glass of wine. Pairing it with reading your insurance policy…not so much. Like wine however, insurance is good to have. Look for an insurance broker displaying this symbol. Insurance brokers are the most knowledgeable resource at your disposal to ensure you’re properly protected.
Available exclusively at
Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!
TRENDING
A Wine Story By Mike Muirhead, ISG, CMS, Sommelier I fell in love with wine while working in Sydney, Australia. I started my wine collection there over 20 years ago when a Sommelier I worked with was selling off his cellar in order to move across the country. I pored over the list of Australian gems for something that could meaningfully start my collection. I chose a 2000 Mount Mary Quintet, and at $100, it was 2 weeks of tip-out for a struggling bartender. I didn’t have a “cellar” in my rental with three other friends, but this was the start of my collection. The wine travelled back with me to Canada, where it first lived in the coldest closet I could find. I graduated to a small, 30-bottle fridge, where I started to add to my prized possessions, mainly other Australian wines I could get my hands on, sprinkling in some French and then Italian. My collection has moved over five times in Winnipeg, and as my “cellar” has grown, I continue to look back at my first bottle with fondness and excitement. When asked about starting a wine collection, I find that people make a couple of initial mistakes. First, they assume that they need to have an actual cellar. Second, they think they need to have wine from everywhere to make it a “complete” wine collection. Let’s start with the first misstep. Wine collectors are very lucky here in Winnipeg: most of us have basements, and most of them are (at least a little bit) cold. The key to cellaring is constant temperature, no movement or vibration, as little light as possible, and the ability to store bottles on their sides. Most of these criteria can be found in the corner of a basement closet. Even an outside wall closet in an apartment will often have decent conditions for mid-term “cellaring.” To address the second concern, we inject a little romance. Wine collections are often thought of as “show pieces”— things we can show off to impress guests when producing that special bottle for a special occasion. What I am suggesting, though, is that your cellar should be a reflection of your tastes and your experiences—it can tell a story. I’ll use my collection as an example. I have around 200 bottles that I have collected over the years. In the beginning, most of my collection was Australian, reflecting the wines that I had cut my palate on and also the most popular region of the
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time. As my wine education progressed, so did my desire to collect wines that were “required reading” for a Sommelier— Brunello, Barolo, Bordeaux, Sauternes. Many of these wines still reside in my collection, and in a few instances, in “vertical” format (multiple vintages of the same wine). However, I have few occasions to drink these wines, and no one ever seems to want to dive into dessert wines with me. In the last 5 years, I have started to think more about cellaring for occasions—wines that commemorate my wedding and the birth years of my two sons. (How is this for bad Sommelier luck: the years of my major milestones—kids, my wedding, even the year I was born—are all poor vintages.) The Sommeliers I work with have also seen their collections morph into something reflective of their own passions and tastes, not an expansive tour of the whole wine world. Gary Hewitt has a solid Riesling selection, while Sylvia Jansen leans more toward bubbles and port. Jill Kwiatkoski has wines that remind her of the places she has travelled, and Ricki-Lee’s is strong on Canadian content, reflecting the time she spent in the Okanagan. Instead of worrying about a wine collection that is “showable,” let your wine collection become a part of your story, as prized and full of memories as a photo album or a travel journal. My wine collection started by telling the story of my journey as a young collector-turned-Sommelier. It reflects how my tastes and my education have evolved over the years, punctuated by memories of where I have travelled, special life milestones, and gifts from the people in my life. And when I open a bottle, I am not just drinking a fine wine—it connects me to the moments that make up my life. Such is the power of a really good wine collection. For more information about Jones & Company’s Cellar Starter Club, email wine@joneswines.com.
CELLARING PRIMER DO
DON’T
Ask a Sommelier: Sommeliers can guide you to the best wines for cellaring, advise you on the length of cellaring time, and suggest wine that also fits your palate. Jones & Company also offers a Cellar Starter Club where we pick out some great wines for mid-term cellaring.
Get caught up in points: Just because a wine gets amazing points does not mean that it can age forever. I have seen $18 wines get 95 points—but that means that they are amazing now, maybe not in 20 years.
Focus on three important aspects: Fruit, tannin, and acidity (all in good quantity) are the building blocks of an ageable wine. Fruit will dissipate over the years, tannins will soften, and acidity will hold it all together—this is why Riesling does so well, even without the tannins. Wines that can age should be harder to drink in the early years because they need time for flavours to meld together.
Assume all pricey wine is good for aging: So you got married 19 years ago and splurged on a special bottle for $20 (that’s $50–60 in today’s dollars)? Unless your wine has the specific traits that are optimal for cellaring, consider opening that special bottle for your 20th anniversary as opposed to waiting until your 30th!
Buy wines to mark milestones but be creative about what you buy and be ready to drink it before you wanted. I chose some amazing Rieslings for my kids’ birth years (hopefully they are wine nerds at 18 too!). Where possible, buy in multiples so you can see how the wine is progressing.
Get caught up in cellaring for a long time: Some wines do amazing over short-term cellaring (3–5 years). This allows time for the tannins to meld and the wine to become more harmonious.
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OUTDOOR GEAR & ACCESSORIES
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WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.
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Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET, Educator and Buyer Ricki-Lee Podolecki left Winnipeg a few years ago with WSET 2 credentials from Wine & Drinks College and returned in early 2020 with an enviable resume in hospitality, wine country tourism, winery work, restaurant management, and the WSET Diploma. She has now taken her place in the management team as a buyer for Jones & Company Wine Merchants and an Educator for WDCM. Ricki-Lee has spent much of her career to date in Canada’s beautiful Okanagan, gaining invaluable experience at a number of destinations, including CheckMate Winery, Quails’ Gate, The Mark Anthony Group, and Burrowing Owl. While her main focus was restaurant management and winery hospitality, Ricki-Lee’s energy and commitment found her helping at harvest, in barrel rooms, and tasting with prestigious winemakers. During this time, she also completed the WSET Level 3 Award in Wines and the WSET Diploma in Wines. She is one of only a handful of Manitobans to hold the Diploma. She brings this wealth of experience to Jones & Company and to WDCM. As a valued member of our buying team, she has a particular focus on our Canadian portfolio. Like other Jones & Company wine professionals, Ricki-Lee can recommend great wine from any corner of the world.
Jones & Company’s Virtual Wine Tastings All tastings include an invitation to a virtual guided tasting with one of our wine experts. Sign up under “Events” at www.joneswines.com. Explore Canada: February 26 & March 19 Take a tour with two Canadian wines and a cider. The cool and refreshing cider comes from our Niagara region, and the red and white wines are from the beautiful Okanagan Valley. Come help us explore our own backyard! Cost: $75.00 Tour Italy: March 5 & 26
Manon Paquin, General Manager We are proud to welcome Manon Paquin, who began responsibilities as our General Manager in October 2020. Manon has more than 15 years of experience in management, team building, and hospitality. She has worked for much of her career with Joey Restaurants, a great partner of Jones & Company. A few years ago, Manon also took on the challenge of opening a new concept in a new city, launching The Local in Ottawa to great success. She returned to Winnipeg to head Joey Kenaston and managed that location for several years. Manon has joined Jones & Company, looking for a new challenge and a new adventure. She is looking forward to meeting all of our fantastic customers and friends. Manon loves wine, she loves teamwork, and she loves people. Please join us in welcoming Manon, her husband Stephen, and their son Huxley to the Jones & Company family.
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Enjoy wines from all over Italy. From the northern regions of Veneto and Emilia-Romagna, we will explore a Prosecco and the classic white of Italy: Trebbiano. We travel to the southernmost region of Sicily for a bold and flavourful red Nero d’Avola. Cost: $60.00 Natural Wines: March 12 & April 1 From grape to bottle, natural wines are quickly gaining in popularity. Try some of our favourites and learn what it means to be a natural wine with stunning white, rosé, and red from around the world. Cost: $75.00
Celebrating Tina Jones!
Tina Jones, recipient of the Order of Manitoba The Jones & Company family is so proud to congratulate Tina Jones, recipient of the Order of Manitoba (O.M.), our province’s highest honour! The O.M. is dedicated to recognizing certain Manitobans who have contributed and enriched the social, cultural or economic well-being of the province and its residents. Tina is owner of the Jones & Company group of companies and principal of Wine & Drinks College Manitoba. Tina is also an active partner in the dynamic concept The Rink Training Centre, providing innovative individual skill development to all levels of hockey players. Tina and her business partner Brad Rice are pioneers in Winnipeg, with the first Canadian Sports School Hockey League teams, The Rink Hockey Academy, and a newly completed $25 million Center of Excellence project. The partnership has also recently expanded to British Columbia with the exciting new Pursuit of Excellence acquisition to create The Rink Kelowna. Tina’s work also extends to partnership in Winnipeg’s popular Green Carrot Juice Company, a concept for fresh, cold-pressed juices that has grown since its inception in 2014. In her entrepreneurial work, she has blazed trails and broken ground. But she has not stopped there: Tina has also made an incredible contribution to our province in her community work and philanthropy. As Chair of the Health Sciences Centre (HSC) Foundation Board, her distinguished work has raised record funds and touched thousands of Manitobans. Her creative leadership with other charitable organizations has made a tremendous impact on the lives of Manitobans in the areas of health, education, arts, culture and diversity, to name only a few. Tina has been recognized by the Women’s Executive Network as one of Canada’s 100 Most Powerful Women (2018). The Association of Fundraising Professionals Manitoba recognized her as Volunteer Fundraiser of the Year (2017); and the University of Manitoba has honoured her with the Distinguished Alumni Award (2018).
Recipient of the Nellie McClung Mantoba 150 Women’s Trailblazer award This special historic award, introduced by the Nellie McClung Foundation in partnership with the Winnipeg Free Press, salutes the contributions that Manitoba women have made to social justice, arts, sports, politics, community activities, and promoting democracy while developing this great province. While her many accomplishments are remarkable, it is only in unfolding them that her worthiness for the 150 Women Trailblazer Awards in honour of Nellie McClung is truly evident. In all her endeavours, Tina’s contribution to Manitoba shows the spirit of Nellie McClung: she works in every way toward equity; she understands the immigrant experience; she mentors women starting out in business; she empowers women, and indeed everyone she encounters, to achieve great things; she works toward reform; she uses her power and influence to effect change; and she works tirelessly for what she believes is right. Manitoba is a better place because of Tina’s contributions. Tina’s award profile will be featured in a virtual book to be released on International Women’s Day, March 8th, 2021 and will be published on the Nellie McClung Foundation website, nelliemcclungfoundation.com. Congratulations Tina!!
SIDEBAR
That Was a Good Year* By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier *Said no one about 2020.
For most of us, 2020 is a year to forget, to write off, or to be remembered as a time that showed us the frailty of the human family. But for wine grapes grown in 2020 in Champagne, or Bordeaux, or Tuscany, it is a different story: a vintage with some potential. When grapes make their journey from harvest to fermentation, ageing, blending, and bottling, they are normally kept separate from the harvest of other years. The date that appears on a wine label is the vintage, the year of harvest (in the northern hemisphere, roughly September to October; in the southern hemisphere, March to April). The quality and quantity of the vintage depends largely on the weather during the growing and harvest seasons. Generally, the further from the equator, the more conditions vary from one year to the next. Influences such as spring frosts, hail, extreme summer weather (cold or hot), or a very wet harvest season can all inflict their own special torment on the vine and wine growers. Add to that variations caused by humans (vine management decisions, smoke and damage from forest fires, even war), and there are a lot of variables. When it works well, the very best wines let us taste warmth and sun, and invite us into
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a conversation with the people who pulled it all together. Even though our collective attention to vintage is not new (Roman writers praised certain vintages over others), it took us a long time before we marketed wines this way. Before the 18th century, wine was stored and shipped in large containers, including clay amphorae and barrels. When glass bottles began to look less like black water balloons and more like cylinders, they could be stored reliably. Eventually we used paper labels on bottles to report what was inside. The vintage was recorded. Laws and rules were established, first to allow wine to be sold in bottles, then to ensure that what was said on the bottle label was accurate. Not every wine label sports a vintage year. When a vintage is absent, it usually means that the wine is the result of blending from several years. Famous quality examples of this practice include most Champagne (where older “reserve” wines can give character and depth), Port (where “vintage” Port is only a tiny proportion of production, even if it grabs most of the attention), and Sherry (where its charm stems from older wines being blended with younger). In ordinary table wine, no
vintage can mean the wine is bulkblended to taste exactly the same, year in and year out—something fine and fair if the price is also modest. For those looking to age wine, vintage matters. Some years are better than others, and some years prove better for ageing than others. Research also matters: many vintage assessments are made shortly after harvest, and early predictions are not always borne out in the long run. Perhaps most importantly, the producer and the wine quality matter. For example, 2010 was widely considered a banner vintage in Bordeaux. Collectors will cellar a selection of top 2010 Bordeaux reds and make provisions in their wills in case the wine outlives the owner. But a 2010 bargain Bordeaux red is by now getting to be a good candidate for soup stock, not the cellar. Do not bother putting that one in your will. As for 2020, will we ever think of it as a good year? Well, the grapes tell us we might. There will be a lot of conversations to have about the remarkable 2020. Some will be inspiring. So here’s to a good year, for us all.
Join us in embracing your love for wine with our new JoCo Merchandise! Shop online at www.joneswines.com/shop
From Left to Right: JoCo Branded Crewneck Sweater (White) $35.00 Wine - The Glue Crewneck Sweater (Bone) $39.00 (also comes in black and grey - prices may vary with colour) JoCo Branded Crewneck Sweater (Burgundy) $35.00 JoCo Branded Corkscrew $9.99 Will Remove for Wine Mask $10.99
culinary partners
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We miss seeing our favourite restaurant staff on a regular basis, so we asked them to send in a picture with a wine they are currently enjoying off their wine list. Don’t forget to add wine when you call in your dinner order! 1. Joey Restaurant Brooke Childerhose, Regional Chef, Joey Winnipeg and Brianna Wilde, GM, Joey Kenaston: Adorn Pinot Noir (California, USA)
6. Pizzeria Gusto Connie Klassen, Head Chef: Tolaini Al Passo (Tuscany, Italy) and Amanda McGrath, GM: Terlan Terlaner (Trentino-Alto Adige)
2. Peasant Cookery Ryan Winston, Cook: Chateau Saint-Antoine Reserve du Chateau Bordeaux Supérieure (Bordeaux, France)
7. Amsterdam Tea Room + Bar Devin Nelissen: Windstorm Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi, USA) and Lance Magnaye Tawse Spark Riesling (Niagara, Canada)
3. Prairie’s Edge Spencer Strike, Assistant Manager: Don Ramon Garnacha/Tempranillo (Spain) 4. Bluestone Cottage Derek Grandpre: Some Young Punks The Squid’s Fist Sangiovese/Shiraz (Clare Valley, Australia) 5. Junction 59 Roadhouse Stephanie Patrick and Adam Mark, Chef: Oggi Pinot Grigio (Veneto, Italy)
8. Gusto North Dylan Keats, GM: Quercia al Poggio Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 9. Merchant Kitchen Cassandra Reis, Manager: Poggio Anima Samael (Montepulciano, Italy)
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10. PF Chang’s Gord Lovell, Assistant Manager: Oggi Moscato Frizzante (Veneto, Italy) and Cape Wine Co Juno SMV (Swartland, South Africa)
15. Beaujena’s French Table Randy and Beaujena Reynolds: Cape Wine Co Juno Shiraz (Paarl, South Africa)
11. The Alt Hotel Dane Surtees, GM: Paul Mas Claude Val Rosé (Languedoc-Roussillon, France)
16. SMITH Restaurant Sarah Szabo, GM: Vinessens Tragolargo Blanco (Alicante, Spain)
12. D-Jay’s Restaurant Robert Johnson and Heather Kristjansson: Oggi Pinot Grigio (Veneto, Italy) and Yali Wild Swan Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley, Chile)
17. 529 Wellington Christopher Sprague, Sommelier: Argot Wines Syrah (Sonoma, California)
13. Preservation Hall Chef/Owner Tristan Foucault and GM/Owner Melanie Foucault: Method Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley, USA) 14. Cibo Waterfront Café Sean Smith, Executive Chef and Kate Fredrickson, GM: Tosso Estate Malbec (Argentina) and Matua Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand)
18. Rae’s Bistro Jillian Flynn, Co-Owner, Pirramimma Petit Verdot (Australia) 19. Thermëa by Nordik Spa-Nature Thomas Stuart, Director of Food: Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut (Champagne, France) and Maximus Navarro, Head Chef: Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Rosé (Champagne, France)
* C U STOMER P IC K *
top picks
TRACY KOGA
JOSIE DUTHOIT
LEAH WATKINS
Giusti nv Extra Dry Prosecco Veneto, Italy $31.99
Terres Falmet 2019 Cinsault Languedoc-Roussillon, France $18.99
A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2019 Curator Red Swartland, South Africa $18.99
My takeaway from 2020 is that you don’t need a special occasion to celebrate with Giusti! This beautifully balanced prosecco is bursting with flavours of apple and lemon with just a hint of floral. It has the perfect balance of freshness and a touch of sweetness, making it my go-to bubbles for any occasion. Cheers to 2021!
Terres Falmet Cinsault is upbeat on the palate, showcasing bright red fruit characteristics like juicy strawberries and cherries with a hint of steeped black tea spice on the finish. Cinsault’s light body is incredibly versatile for food pairings. It is especially lovely with poultry and salmon with roasted vegetables. I give it a quick chill to accentuate its fresh qualities.
This daring, juicy blend of Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre from the Swartland region of South Africa showcases an array of spices, dark berry, plum, and smoked meat. This brilliantly crafted wine finishes with light tannins, leaving you wanting more. Sip this while you’re grilling your favourite steak or smoking a rack of lamb—classic South African cuisine.
JILL KWIATKOSKI
MANON PAQUIN
JAMES JOHNSTON
Lekker Cider Pacific North West Bru Dry Hard Cider, Canada ($8.99/473ml)
Poggio Anima 2018 Belial Sangiovese Tuscany, Italy $17.99
Fattoria Il Muro 2018 Violato Syrah Tuscany, Italy $19.99
Well, this is an unusual choice for me—it’s cider! I love a good crisp cider, and I’m so happy we are carrying Lekker Cider from Calgary, Alberta. Not only is this cider made right here in our beautiful country, but it is amazingly delicious with notes of crab apple, pineapple purée, Tutti Frutti, and a hint of cardamom. A perfect cider to have any time— winter, spring, summer or fall!
One of my go-to’s right now! The appearance is a beautiful dark ruby. Aromas of rosemary, lavender, and savoury spices with bright red cherries fill the glass. The juicy and smooth palate shows off characters of cherry, white pepper, and raspberry. The finish is lengthy with a refreshing high acidity that balances the soft tannins.
The name of the wine, Violato, is inspired by the colour of the Syrah grape: deep purple/violet. This full bodied, juicy red has flavours and aromas of black cherry jam, plums, flowers, and hints of figs that lead to a smooth peppery finish.
58 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop
CONTEST RUNS MARCH 1–31, 2021
WIN WINE FOR A YEAR
Every month for one year, you will receive 2 cases of wine curated by our Jones & Company Sommeliers and Wine Experts.
Details on how to enter will be announced on our social media channels and emailed to our mailing list on FEBRUARY 28TH. Follow us joneswinemerchants and sign up for our mailing list on joneswines.com to be the first to hear details on the biggest giveaway of the year
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