The Cellar Door Issue 43: The Art of Wine

Cellar Doorthe

The Art of Wine

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Here’s

contents

Features

22 First Impressions

Ricki-Lee Podolecki

the stories behind some of our favourite wine

34 The Vessel

Mike Muirhead talks wine packaging—from the ancients to modern-day innovations.

5 Questions for Col McBryde, Some Young Punks

One of Oz’s most innovative winemakers

gut

for a

51 The Great Gadget Challenge

We experiment with some new kitchen gadgets—and

following

Cover: Wines

Africa);

the cover

Cape Wine Company Juno SMV

Wine Co. Prototype Zinfandel (USA); Dumuerte

(Spain); Benazzoli Dafne (Italy); Botter Primitivo (Italy).

art by

Muirhead.

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Cellar Doorthe

@thecellardoormag

Publisher and Editor

Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com

Editorial Board

Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Ricki-Lee Podolecki

Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com

Contributors

Todd Antonation, Andrée-Anne Boisvert, Josie Duthoit, Erika Fridrik, Devon Gillingham, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Abby Ilchena, Tina Jones, Mike Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Alyona Lyubytska, Kurt Marykuca, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Apryl Nadeau, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Anton Sikorsky, Jenny VanDenDriessche, Benoit Vouillon, Dylan Watkins

Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, please contact lisa@poisepublications.com

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.

1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463 JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants © 2022 Poise Publications Inc.

a message from tina jones

If I had a marketing background, I could understand wine design. I will confess that working inside the wine industry means that I look at the label more as a source of information about what is inside the bottle and not so much as a tool to sell it.

But my friends and colleagues tell a different story: we buy on labels and packaging. Design is important. Elegance and creativity on the outside do not determine the taste of the wine inside, but do impact whether we even give that wine a chance. And creative wine design isn’t just for a new generation of winemakers—wine icons such as Château Mouton Rothschild have made ever-changing label design a part of their signature branding.

When it comes to labels, most wineries in the world are small operations without a budget for marketing, advertising, or design fees. They might be using an old family crest or an image of the winery, or they might have asked an artist friend to create a design that represents their personality—or their wine’s. The packaging—bottle, can, box—is likely more determined by what we as wine lovers want to see on shelves or what we perceive to be appropriate rather than what is best for shipping costs, handling, or the environment.

To celebrate the wide lens of creativity we see, we decided to devote an entire issue to wine design. Mike Muirhead takes us back to the start to explore the evolution of wine packaging, and Ricki-Lee shares the stories behind some of our most interesting labels. Gary Hewitt gives us a quick lesson in wine fraud, and Sylvia Jansen invites us to read the fine print like I do—to discover what is inside the bottle. And don’t miss our food and wine feature on this year’s kitchen gadgets—it might just give you some great gift ideas for the foodie on your list.

As always, there is a world of information inside these pages! I hope you can lose yourself in our exploration of wine design. When you are in the store, please ask us if we know the tales behind your favourite labels—and watch our social media (@joneswinemerchants), where our wine experts will be sharing their favourite label stories.

Cheers!

Tina Jones

ask a sommelier

Can (and should) I decant Champagne, or will it totally de-frizz it?

—Carol Sicat

For high-quality, young (younger than 10 years old) vintage Champagne, yes, you can. Some fizz will be lost, but the wine will thank you with lifted aromatics and a more expressive palate. Prime a relatively narrow decanter by pouring in a few millilitres of Champagne or similar-style white wine and swirl it around to pick up dust particles (which will reduce fizz-loss) and remove any off-odours. Then pour that out (a good reason to use a lesser wine). Decant slowly into the primed decanter. If the Champagne is a vintage with 10+ years in the bottle or a regular non-vintage, I recommend not decanting.

On the question, should you decant Champagne? I prefer to select a wine glass that will expose the surface area to oxygen and do not decant. Serving the Champagne directly into larger glasses offers similar gentle aeration. Champagne

Arnaud Moreau nv Brut Tradition Grand Cru ($73.99) is delicious poured straight into the glass; and Moreau’s beautiful 2016 Brut Erynne Blanc de Blancs ($143.99) benefits from either decanting or using a larger glass.

—Sylvia Jansen, Champagne Expert

It seems like all of our favourite pastimes are beset by “supply chain issues.” Do I need to worry about the supply chain affecting wine getting to Manitoba?

—Carl Weatherdon

Unfortunately, Manitoba is not exempt from the “supply chain issues.” In fact, it’s an even longer wait for us to get our shipments because we are in the middle of this extremely large country of ours. Wine cases are transported via shipping vessels and spend 1–2 months at sea. Wines from Europe and South Africa land in Montreal, whereas wines from South America, New Zealand, and Australia come up through Vancouver.

Upon arriving at port, the ships are then inspected by Canadian Customs (which can take up to a week or more) and then loaded onto semi-trucks (which can take another week or two). From there, they are trucked to Manitoba, which may take up to a week or more (weather depending, of course). That part of the shipping process alone takes between 2 and 3 months for the wine to leave its original port and land in Manitoba.

Then you have to factor in delays: dock strikes at departure and receiving ports, a shortage of dock workers, or a shortage of vessels leaving that port can all delay the wines from setting sail. From winery to wine store, with a typically smooth supply chain, shipping takes a minimum of 4–5 months to get here. Over the past 2 years, when things were at their worst, we have waited up to 7–10 months for orders to arrive—and not just from the other side of the world—we have waited that long for wines from our neighbours, the USA! Don’t worry, though—things are looking up: we are now seeing orders arriving on time (and sometimes even sooner than expected). We are adjusting to make sure you have your favourite wines for the holidays (and every day).

—Jill Kwiatkoski, Director of Purchasing

I have been into very expressive whites like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for a while, but they are starting to feel like too much. What white wines can I try that are a little more restrained but still interesting?

—Andrea Johnston

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc’s signature zippy acidity can be quite refreshing, but not long ago, like you, I was looking for something new. I took a deep dive into the world of Italian white wines and their many indigenous grape varieties. My absolute “Desert Island” wine is Montunal Montonale ($29.99), which is a white wine from Lugana made from a grape called Turbiana: it is fresh and minerally with lovely melon notes.

You might also want to try a Verdicchio. It packs all the citrus notes you love about New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc but with beautifully balanced acidity. My top pick for Verdicchio would be the Tavignano Costaverde ($19.99). Sticking with the “V” grapes, Vermentino would also be a great choice. Try the Il Palazzo Vermentino from Tuscany ($21.99): it’s medium bodied and slightly floral with a memorable finish that will leave you wanting more.

My last hidden gem of an Italian white is the Primosic Ribolla Gialla ($26.99). This delicate dazzler will surprise you with its elegant palate of orchard fruit and citrus that lingers on the finish. There are so many amazing Italian whites. Come down and see us—we would love to suggest some that are sure to become your new favourites.

—Saralyn Mehta, White Wine Aficionado

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Winery On Creations: Demuerte

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

When two creative forces meet, occasionally, they produce a project that is to die for. Demuerte is just such a project.

The Demuerte wines are the passion project of winemaker Pablo Cortes and designer Karel Eissner, partners whose vision was to design bottles that truly reflect the wines inside. Demuerte’s imaginative and eye-catching labels were created by Karel, designer, photographer, and Creative Director at Winery On Creations—and the love of Pablo’s life. Karel studied architecture in her native Bogota, Colombia, and later developed her love of design in Munich, Germany, where she took her master’s degree in graphic design and photography.

The wine inside the bottle is just as outstanding as those labels! Pablo, who was born and raised in Valencia, Spain, studied agronomic engineering and holds a master’s degree in oenology. He has been making wine at award-winning Spanish wineries for over 15 years.

In 2012, the couple met in Valencia, and their lives grew together personally and professionally. When Pablo decided to leave his job to make wine of his own, he knew what he was looking for: “A place in the Mediterranean where the Monastrell grape was the protagonist. I have always been in love with Monastrell and wanted to get the most out of it.”

Seeking to bring a modern and creative spin to this traditional Spanish grape, they landed in the small wine region of Yecla in the southeastern part of Spain—where they wanted to take the traditional expression of Monastrell and add their own passionate approach. Monastrell also happened to be the reigning maestro of grape varieties produced in Yecla. In 2017, Karel and Pablo brought their creative passions together to create the magical world of Demuerte wines.

“We made the first wine in my friend Alfredo Candela’s winery. It still had no name or label, but someone said it was ‘De muerte!’—a Spanish expression meaning excellent or ‘to die for’,” explains Pablo. While travelling through Mexico, we were captivated by the strength and joy of the Mexican skull, an artistic and joyful manifestation of death. This is how we fused the concepts DEMUERTE and the SKULL. Karel designed an interpretation of La Catrina (an icon of the

Mexican Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead), and I developed a complete collection of wines with the Monastrell grape as the protagonist. These seven unique wines are designed so that each label is unique in colour and texture. They are not just labels—they are art on a bottle.”

The Demuerte wines and their bottles work together to tell a story: “Each label is unique—we wanted to put components on the label as an extension of the wine. Demuerte Deluxe is smooth and elegant like its velvet label; Demuerte One is daring and surprising like the luminescent label (it glows in the dark!); and Demuerte Black is the most exclusive wine in the collection. Swarovski crystals have a component of elegance and exclusivity—like this wine. The combination was perfect, and the crystals were perfect for the eyes of the skull.”

While he uses 100% Monastrell for his icon Demuerte Black, Pablo has also created red blends with Syrah, Petite Verdot, Garnacha Tintorera, and Cabernet Sauvignon and white blends with Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. “Our wines are what you feel when you smell, taste, see, and touch them. The visual design of our wines is an invitation to taste them, a prelude to the sensations that one should expect from the wine.” The wines are, indeed, to die for.

Demuerte wines arrive in October, with rosé to follow in summer 2023. Watch our Instagram @joneswinemerchants for the launch.

Pablo Cortes & Karel Eissner (courtesy of Winery On Creations)

First Impressions

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

What makes a wine label grab your attention? Is it colour? Is it intrigue? Is it a clever (or terrible) design? At Jones & Company, we have over 1,200 types of wine on our shelves, so what winemakers put on the outside of the bottle can be an important introduction to the wine

inside. Sometimes the label is compelling in its design—a work of art that complements the carefully crafted wine inside—and sometimes, it’s the story that makes us appreciate the depth of meaning. Here are some of our favourite labels and their stories.

Pedigree: Catena Zapata 2018 Malbec Argentino Mendoza, Argentina ($171.99)

Using four dramatic characters, this epic label captures the history of Malbec and its journey from France to Argentina. Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of Malbec in Cahors, France; The Immigrant symbolizes Malbec’s journey to the New World; and Phylloxera, a skeleton, represents the large-scale decimation of Old World Malbec by the phylloxera louse in the late 1800s. Adrianna Catena Zapata is the final woman on the label, symbolizing the renaissance of Malbec and the family’s four generations of winemakers. The wine is as epic as its label promises: it is produced from 100-year-old vines of the Nicassia Vineyard (named after winemaker Laura Catena’s greatgrandmother) and shows the sophisticated side of Malbec and its storied history in Argentina.

Creature Comforts: Lingenfelder 2018 Bird Riesling Pfalz, Germany ($19.99)

The Lingenfelder family has been making wine in Pfalz, Germany, for 14 generations (starting in 1520). During his tenure, Rainer Lingenfelder (generation 13) has brought great innovation to the family vineyard, including in marketing their wines. Recognizing that German wine names can be difficult to remember—or even pronounce—on the international market, Rainer decided to have an artist honour the different creatures found in Lingenfelder’s vineyards. This approach gave the “creature series” a distinct theme that would attract attention and stand out in wine lovers’ memories. The Bird label started it off, followed by the Bee, the Fox, the Hare, the Owl, and the Fish.

Wine with Personality: Benazzoli 2020 Dafne Bardolino, Italy ($19.99)

Benazoli is a woman-owned and operated winery with a dynamic team that injects imagination into everything they do. Each label showcases a drawing of a fictional woman whose personality and name represent the experience of the wine. The petals surrounding Dafne’s face echo the roses and geraniums (along with cherries and wild strawberries) on the nose. The wine itself—a light-bodied red with juicy acidity and well-integrated tannins—reflects Dafne’s personality, described by the winemakers as “young: she wants to grow up, but she’s afraid to lose her lightheartedness. She’s active, dynamic, determined, and full of joy.”

Blending Traditions: The Juice Asylum 2020 Maggie Mae Tuscany, Italy ($31.99)

As a buying group, we were torn about bringing this wine in. The juice is fabulous; the label… is risky. But the story behind the label made us fall in love with it. The image depicts Maggie Mae, the main character of a traditional Liverpool folk song about a prostitute who robbed a “homeward bounder” (a sailor coming home from sea). An intriguing dinner-conversation starter indeed! What could be more traditional than an Italian winemaker dedicating his wine label design to his love of British folk songs from the 1700s?

labels

A Moment in Time: Ventisei 2019 Bianco Toscana, Italy ($19.99)

Eline Aloy was 26 (ventisei in Italian!) when her passion for wine culminated in this intriguing blend. That year, she opened her first wine bar in Antwerp, Belgium, and her mother, Virginie Saverys, took over Avignonesi winery in Montepulciano, Tuscany. After sneaking into a blending session to try her hand at the art, she was hooked. She decided on the spot to start her own wine collection. When looking for the name and design for this wine, she says, she chose to capture the moment of “this intense and wine-fuelled year” that inspired her wine career.

It Wasn’t Me: Innocent Bystander 2019 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley, Australia ($26.99)

This winery’s philosophy holds that the grapes produced in the Yarra Valley are so outstanding that they simply need a gentle, nurturing hand to shepherd them through to outstanding wines. After many attempts by different artists, it was the son of a neighbour who was just starting out in graphic design who created a cardboard stencil and used spray paint to create the now iconic logo. It embodies the philosophy of the winery—rather than elevating a personality behind the brand, they work as a team of “innocent bystanders” in service to the wine.

Rebellion: Coudert Père et Fils 2020 Clos de le Roilette Fleurie, France ($32.99)

Why is this on our list? The label wouldn’t win any design awards, but that is actually the point. It starts with a winemaker frustrated with the rules. Considered one of the finest producers in Beaujolais, the vineyards of Clos de la Roilette sit on 9 hectares between the villages of Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent. When the Fleurie appellation was created in the 1920s, the landowner was infuriated with losing his “Moulin-à-Vent” designation to this upstart appellation with no reputation. In retaliation, he slapped an unflattering photograph of his racehorse, Roilette, on the label, without even mentioning Fleurie. It was a very French way of stating his disapproval. The Fleurie designation is now included on the label, and the winery continues to honour Roilette’s rebellion with the original equine label.

Verified: Bond 2017 St Eden Napa Valley, USA ($1,999.99)

H. William Harlan and his team spent 25 years in search of what they consider the five best sites in the Napa Valley for Cabernet Sauvignon. Bond Cabernet Sauvignon from the St Eden Estate is considered a “First Growth” (the highest-quality designation used in France)—as you can see from its price tag. As an iconic producer and winery susceptible to fraud (see Gary’s Corner on page 28 for the scoop on counterfeit wine), they partner with the 250-year-old American Bank Note Company, which prints their labels on banknotes and transfers them to the winery via armoured vans. If you are lucky enough to get one of the very exclusive bottles allocated to Jones & Company, you can verify your bottle’s authenticity on their site with a special ID number.

Levelling Up

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

I will say that there is something immensely satisfying about the everyday pleasure of sipping a wine that is simple, predictable, and easy. On the other hand, a special holiday dinner that has been lovingly prepared from handmade ingredients accompanied by a wine with a great pedigree is an appeal that has me regularly upselling myself.

Going up the ladder in wine price and quality might seem complex, but if you occasionally treat yourself to a fine

dinner out, you already know the value of a great experience. To taste the wine range successfully and enjoyably, we have developed a method that will give you the flavour profile you like at various price points.

With these tips in hand, you can splurge on a new and unfamiliar treat occasionally. You may discover something wonderful. After all, some of our greatest love affairs happen in the most unexpected places.

LEVEL 1: Everyday Wine

Start with your own everyday wine. My “everyday” price range is under $20 for most wines. For that, I expect a straightforward, predictable wine that is delicious for the price. The wine should be true to its variety (or varieties) and should reflect its place of origin with honesty.

LEVEL 2: Once-a-Month Wines

Start with a wine style you like, whether that means big, rich reds; racy and lively whites; bubbles, sweet, or fortified. A cult classic or an expensive icon won’t be to your taste if you do not like the basic offering of that variety. A selection that is twice your regular everyday price range should be a wine with more panache, character, and intensity. The wine will congratulate you for spending more money without the need to leave a price tag hanging around its neck.

LEVEL 3: Special Occasion Wines

When choosing a special occasion wine, ask for a great wine that is enjoyable now. Some wines in the superpremium category will show best only after a few years of cellaring—not ideal if the occasion is this weekend. Great wine begins in the vineyard and comes to perfection in your glass. It pays tribute to sunshine and long hours of hard work in the vineyard; it has been lovingly tended in the winery and matured well, sometimes in (expensive) oak barrels. When you open it up and pour a glass, the wine should be something that centres the conversation, not just smooths it. A great wine can lift a special occasion to an art form and transforms any evening into something magical.

1

2 3

J.A. Les Fées Cabernet Sauvignon, Pays d’Oc, France ($15.99): Great value and classic black fruit character from the south of France.

Pulenta 2019 III Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina ($29.99): Highaltitude vineyards provide concentrated fruit and balance.

Moone-Tsai 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, USA ($199.99): Magical, concentrated, and attention-grabbing.

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Malbec 2 3

Doña Paula 2020 Los Cardos Malbec Mendoza, Argentina ($13.99): Your delicious entry in to the world of Malbec.

Famille Baldès 2018 Petit Clos Malbec Cahors, France ($22.99): Round and lovely, black fruit and smooth tannins, a spectacular Malbec.

Pulenta 2015 Gran Malbec X Valle de Uco, Argentina ($62.99): Intense dark fruit, with spicy edges, dried herbal notes, and well-integrated oak character all combine for a structured and complex beauty.

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Pinuaga 2021 Bianco Sauvignon Blanc Castile-La Mancha, Spain ($15.99): Clean lines and tropical fruit character without a big price tag.

Jax Vineyards 2020 Y3 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley, USA ($35.99): Single vineyard wine, fermented in concrete tanks and aged in neutral oak, offering up complexity and crispness with tropicality and beauty.

Terlan 2018 Quarz Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige, Italy ($85.99): An exciting, textured white wine from choice fruit, with special depth and tingle on the palate.

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Chardonnay 2 3

Finca Martha 2020 Chardonnay Mendoza, Argentina ($17.99): Balanced, with clean citrus and stone fruit, pineapple and a refreshing finish.

Domaine Rollin 2017 Les Clos Pernand-Vergelesses Burgundy, France ($79.99): A classic, with the complexity of ripe orchard fruit, floral and blossom notes, integrated texture and restrained (old) oak.

Signorello 2019 Hope’s Cuvée Chardonnay Napa Valley, USA ($174.99): A stellar wine that is rich, generous, and opulent with amazing depth and freshness.

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Giusti nv Extra Dry Sparkling Veneto, Italy ($17.99): Delicate fruit and floral notes.

Silverthorn 2018 The Green Man Brut Western Cape, South Africa ($43.99): Freshness and buttered-toast complexity, with beautiful structure, fine mousse, and a long finish.

Arnaud Moreau 2016 Erynne Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne, France ($145.99): Rare and remarkable, an irresistible combination of aromatic beauty, complexity on the palate and a long finish.

Sauvignon Blanc 2 3

Sparkling Wine 2 3

Dr. Dimitrios Balageorge

Orthopaedic Surgeon and Medical Director of Prota Clinic

GARY’S CORNER

Photo by Ian McCausland

Faking It

By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier

Billionaire Bill Koch thought he owned a bottle of 1782 Château Lafitte previously owned by Thomas Jefferson. It was engraved with “Th. J”—a sure sign of authenticity. But caveat emptor, the engraving was done with an electric engraver, an impossibility at the time. Another 20 bottles of famous and rare wines in Bill Koch’s impressive cellar were subsequently exposed as fakes—the cost at auction of these 21 bottles was $3.4 million!

An infuriated Koch vowed to bring the perpetrators to justice. His initial target was Hardy Rodenstock, the now infamous international wine collector and trader who first offered the Jefferson bottles at auction. But Rodenstock was just the beginning; litigious Koch (who previously sued both of his brothers and his mother) racked up lawsuits against auction houses, retailers, vendors, and collectors. One of these collectors is now the most infamous wine counterfeiter of our time, Rudy Kurniawan.

Rudy Kurniawan was a wine collector and investor with a reputation for spending millions at auctions. He was wellloved by those in California’s elite wine circuit, known for being kind and very generous with what was rumoured to be the largest private wine collection in the world. However, his background was shrouded in mystery—he demurred whenever someone asked where his money came from. In the early 2000s, Rudy began offering wines at auction, including magnums of 1982 Château Le Pin and bottles of Domaine Ponsot Clos St. Denis Grand Cru. It was Rudy’s early vintages of Ponsot Clos St. Denis (those between 1945 and 1975) that caught the winemaker’s eye in an auctioneer’s catalogue. You see, Laurence Ponsot’s family only started making the Clos St. Denis in 1982. Under the scrutiny of Koch, Ponsot, and, eventually, the FBI, Rudy’s nefarious wine scheme unravelled.

When the FBI raided his home, they found a workshop stocked with labels, corks, tools for counterfeiting, and authentic empty bottles to be refilled. There were stocks of inexpensive Napa Valley wines with notes on how to pass them off as older vintages of Bordeaux. He purchased old Burgundian wines from the cellar of a long-standing négociant that he could “adjust” and rebottle as more famous, more expensive selections. Rudy’s excellent palate plus his attention to detail created convincing counterfeits that under other circumstances

may have garnered real respect. Between 2000 and 2012, the “Great Gatsby” of wine collectors bought and sold so much wine that it is estimated that as many as 10,000 of his counterfeit wines could still be in private collections. In 2012, he was convicted of fraud, sentenced to 10 years in prison, and ordered to pay $28.4 million in restitution!

But not all counterfeit wines imitate the super rare and expensive. In 2010, 1.3 million cases of Gallo’s Red Bicyclette Pinot Noir were sold in the United States. Gallo sourced the wine from Sieur d’Arques, a major producer in the LanguedocRoussillon of south France, a region with the capacity to produce a maximum of only 500,000 cases of Pinot Noir. Investigations revealed that liberal quantities of cheaper Merlot and Syrah made up the difference. After successful prosecution, the defeated lawyer for Sieur d’Arques seemed unperturbed: “Not a single American consumer complained.”

Estimates indicate that counterfeit alcohol costs the global drinks industry more than $3 billion per year. Although Scotch whisky and cognac account for about two thirds of the fraud, the impact on wine is still significant. China, followed by India and Turkey, is the largest producer of counterfeit goods, and the scale of fake wine in China is of legendary proportions— one estimate is that 60%–70% of all 1998 Bordeaux sold in China was fake in one way or another. In 2021, in the south China city of Guangzhou alone, a police operation uncovered a criminal network that had been selling counterfeit Penfolds wines for three years while pocketing $26 million.

Of course, producers are taking countermeasures. Patented embossed bottles and special corks make a counterfeiter’s job more challenging. Veuve Clicquot patented their special not-yellow-not-orange label as Pantone 137C, and Italy has introduced labels and seals with holograms, watermarks, and unique registration numbers à la printed currency. Globally, producers are using “smart labels” that incorporate radio-frequency identification (RFID) and QR codes or even microchips embedded into their bottles. As such, the age-old cat-and-mouse game between producers and counterfeiters continues to evolve.

As for Bill Koch, well, he has apparently lost his enthusiasm for collecting rare wines.

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together! So, will it be our place—or yours?

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together! So, will it be our place—or yours?

holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together! So, will it be our place—or yours?

So, will it be our place—or yours?

So, will it be our place—or yours?

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

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Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines. (204) 953-1950 (204) 452-1422

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines. (204) 953-1950 (204) 452-1422

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines. (204) 953-1950 (204) 452-1422

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines. (204) 452-1422(204) 786-6641 x247

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines. (204) 452-1422

(204) 953-1950 (204) 452-1422

Masonic Memorial Centre (204) 452-1422

289-2189(204) 953-1950 (204) 452-1422

953-1950 (204) 452-1422

So, will it be our place—or yours?

The Vessel

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, ISG, CMS

Imagine a world where the aluminum can was invented before glassblowing. Would we have been carefully setting our tables and laying out cans at every place setting while some wine expert tried to convince us that glass is a better option? The evolution of how we package and transport

wine has cemented the centuries of traditions and rituals we have developed around drinking it. The challenge for innovation today is shifting stubborn consumer habits when innovations can improve the wine experience so much that they simply cannot be ignored.

The earliest known wine vessel came from the region now known as Georgia and traces back to roughly 6,000 BCE. These earthenware containers known as kvevri were used in all stages of wine production. Then came the amphora that Greeks and Romans used to transport wine as they expanded their empires. These terracotta amphorae had handles and a pointed bottom that made them ideal for lining the curved walls of their ships’ holds.

Amphorae dominated wine transport for the next 5,500 years until the Celts invented the wine barrel in about 50 BCE. This invention was handy for transport (it fits well in the hulls of ships, and it floats), but it also had a lasting impact on the flavour of the wines. When the Romans started transporting wines in oak, they noticed that the wines became smoother and developed flavours like vanilla, caramel, and spice over time.

The barrel was the preferred method of transportation for nearly the next 2,000 years—until glassblowers developed the skills to create strong and stable bottles. Design decisions made centuries ago continue to influence how we experience wine: our current bottle size—750 ml—is based on the capacity of one fully expelled breath of an average glassblower.

In the last decade, as wine marketing has become more creative, we have seen the biggest (and most rapid) changes in wine packaging since we moved from the clay amphora to the wooden cask.

Need Closure?

Let’s start at the top (literally). Cork has been the undisputed king of closures since 2000 BCE, because it is abundant and easy to harvest (grown mainly in Spain and Portugal) and creates an airtight seal. What changed after 4,000 years? One precursor was the popular, persistent (and false) rumour of a cork shortage in the world. The truth is that cork can be unreliable—inferior cork can leak, causing oxidization, but more crucially, it can be infected with the naturally occurring chemical trichloroanisole (TCA), causing “cork taint” (a wet cardboard flavour in the wine).

The Stelvin™ screw top offers a food-grade seal that is breathable enough to allow age-worthy wines to develop in the bottle. Four thousand years is a long time, though—the wine consumer will take some convincing, as will European (Old World) producers, who are deeply entrenched in their traditions. New World producers have especially championed this shift for three main reasons: they are not burdened with history (it is illegal to seal Burgundy and Bordeaux under screw cap); they are not afraid to let technology and data influence their decisions; and they like to set themselves apart.

Weingut Werlitsch bottles their biodynamic orange wine, Glück, in clay as an ode to ancient wine vessels.

From left: Gérard Bertrand’s Côte des Roses seals its unique rose-bottomed bottle with Vinoloc; Cape Wine Co’s Juno is under screw cap; and Lolailo Sangria comes with a crown closure and a “Lightening” stopper to keep it fresh.

New Zealand put the closure on the map (they are almost 100% under screw cap), and since 2004, Australian Tyrrell’s iconic Vat 1 Semillon has been sealed under screw cap.

What might the future bring? Forward-thinking winemakers are exploring the glass closure called Vinoloc. These closures are 100% inert (meaning they won’t affect the flavour of the wine), easy to produce, and very reliable. The energy needed to recycle them is also significantly lower than the aluminum used for Stelvin. However, as the humble screw cap has taught us, revolution is slow, and proper marketing will be key to mainstream acceptance.

The Shape of Wine

In just 300 years of using glass bottles, there has been one really important innovation: the switch from woodfired glass to the thicker and stronger coal-fired glass (which meant an end to Champagne bottles exploding in the cellars). Glass is a fantastic inert vessel that can be recycled and reused, so—besides standardization and industrialization—we really had not seen any advances in wine bottles until the last 50 years. Glass is also heavy and an inefficient use of space for packaging, making transportation expensive and carbon-intensive.

Pinuaga’s 3L La Frasca organic red wine uses BIB to stay fresh for up to 6 weeks after opening.

However, you cannot stop the march of progress. We have recently discovered some successful new formats. In the last 3 years, more and more winemakers are offering their wares in aluminum cans. These cans are portable, recyclable, and the perfect single wine portion. We first brought in Underwood’s Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, eventually adding their bubbly. As the format has grown in popularity each year, we have added canned wines from Spier and Lubanzi (South Africa), Tawse (Canada), and Solis Lumen (France).

The popularity of cans has opened the door for a format that has been patiently waiting for its moment in the market. Although it has been around for decades, the Bag-in-Box format—now rebranded as the much trendier “BIB”— has seen the biggest recent push into the market. Quality materials and technology mean that winemakers from around the globe are offering this eco-friendly format. The

sealed bag means that wine lasts longer for casual wine drinkers—as well as for restaurants. Casual fine dining leaders Joey and Earls restaurants now pour their by-theglass wines from a proprietary 9L BIB, and Jones & Co. is continually searching for new wines that get the stamp of approval for price and quality. We are also keeping our eye on the “Bagnum”—a grab-and-go 1.5L bag (without the box) that houses quality French wine.

The wine world is slow and steady, but as technology accelerates, innovators in the industry will keep evolving our experience of wine. If the last decade has shown us anything, it is that the wine industry is getting more comfortable with reinventing itself to adapt to economic and environmental challenges. It has also shown us how deeply ingrained our ideas of wine culture are and how much we cherish not just what is in the package, but also the rituals that surround it.

Swing and a Miss

The past decade has seen a few clever attempts to manage financial and environmental costs—but the market is a fickle beast, and logic does not always prevail.

LIFE IN PLASTIC

At an eighth of the weight of glass, the environmental savings of shipping plastic wine bottles are net positive. One of our long-time producers, Joseph Mellot in the Loire Valley, experimented with plastic bottles for over 10 years, trying to create something that looked like glass but was much better for the planet. When wine lovers lifted the smaller, lighter plastic bottles off the shelf, they assumed that there was less wine in the containers—and put them back. After 4 years, Jones & Company eventually discontinued the format on our shelves.

(NOT) HIP TO BE SQUARE

One of the most logical answers to economical shipping and lower environmental impact is square bottles—more cases of square bottles fit on a standard pallet, decreasing shipping costs per litre. However, tradition and history swayed wine drinkers away from sense and sensibility, and the square bottles died on the shelf.

Left: The California Square bottle (photo courtesy of designers Stranger and Stranger)

Jones & Co. wine in cans: Underwood Rosé (also available: Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Bubbles); Lubanzi Chenin Blanc; Solis Lumen Rosé; and Tawse Riesling (also available: Rosé).

Homes designed to fit your lifestyle.

Navigating Design

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

How do you tell a story on a 3 x 5” label? Do you start with the wine, the winemaker, or the art? If you are smart, you find a talented graphic designer—part artist, part typographer, and part marketer, with a talent for making a story come to life on a bottle.

Kurt Gonsalves is a graphic designer out of Napa Valley (KMGDesign) who has worked with over 150 brands and who has found a niche in designing wine labels. One of Kurt’s longest design relationships is with Napa’s Precision Wine Co. Trevor Sheehan, the winery’s vintner and proprietor, learned that teaming up with a talented designer can get your wine off the shelf and into people’s homes. “We started with a traditional, simple label—but it was when I changed our name to Precision and we came up with the gear label that the brand really evolved and attracted attention.”

for transportation. Then they realized that the wine tasted better when it arrived at the destination than when it left.” The celestial map that guides the ship on the Navigator label recalls ancient wine barrels travelling in ship hulls to their final destination in the New World.

The challenge is creating a brand that is captivating and that alludes to storytelling— that says just enough to capture your attention but also allows for interpretation.

An intrinsic element to a successful label is fruitful partnerships not only with artists but with those who will produce the label.

“The true success of many of my brands has been finding creative ways to push the limits of the manufacturing process, working very closely with our local printers and suppliers,” explains Kurt. “Navigator is a great example of a brand that creates an interactive experience as the bottle is turned. Taking a 360 degree bottle design approach through screen printing has been a great brand compliment. These partnerships create a distinct improvement that separates our brands from others in the market.”

Each wine label has its own process. “Sometimes we start with the name,” says Trevor, “and sometimes we start with an image and then come up with a name based on the imagery. And it can evolve over time. For the Navigator, we started with the idea of the celestial map on a barrel head— the way barrels came into winemaking was not for ageing but

A memorable label is truly a team effort between the winemaker’s team, the graphic designer, the artists creating the images, and the printer. Each project has its own rhythm—a collaboration that begins with an idea and ends in a story on a bottle.

The Creators

Pinot Grigio

SCHEDA TECNICA

Vitigno: Pinot Grigio Denominazione: D.O.C delle Venezie Varietà d’uva: Pinot Grigio Allevamento: Sylvot, Guyot Metodi di difesa: lotta antiparassitaria integrata ad impatto ambientale controllato Vendemmia: ultima decade di agosto, prima decade di settembre

Vinificazione: l’uva viene delicatamente diraspata. Successivamente viene pressata in modo soffice ed il mosto ottenuto viene chiarificato. Il mosto quindi fermenta a temperatura controlla in recipienti di acciaio inox.

Affinamento: a fine fermentazione il vino viene mantenuto sui lieviti nei recipienti di acciaio inox per 3 mesi. Il vino imbottigliato viene normalmente conservato in locali termo condizionati.

DATA SHEET

Varietal: Pinot Grigio

Appellation: D.O.C delle Venezie

Una freschezza che arriva dal mare, portando con sé i riflessi del sole e i profumi della pesca gialla. Il Pinot Grigio si caratterizza per freschezza e per una piacevole sapidità, con un gusto voluminoso e croccante, è particolarmente indicato

NOTE SENSORIALI

Colore: giallo paglierino con affascinanti riflessi dorati.

Profumo: complesso, potente, avvolgente.

Bouquet ricco e multi sfaccettato: l’apporto floreale margherita e glicine bianco evolve in note di frutta matura con albicocca, e pesca gialla in evidenza.

Grape variety: Pinot Grigio

Training system: Sylvot, Guyot

Pest management: integrated pest control with controlled environmental impact

Harvest time: last ten days of August, the first ten days of September

Vinification: the grapes are gently destemmed. Then softly pressed and the must produced is clarified.

The must then ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel vats.

Ageing: at the end of fermentation the wine is kept on the lees in stainless steel containers for 3 months.

Umberto Baccichetto 2021 Pinot Grigio Friuli/Venezia Giulia, Italy ($17.99) Michela Baso, Designer, Studio Quindici: The Pinot Grigio moves on the palate with the lightness of air, with the character and with the aromas that distinguish it. The illustration evokes these sensations: the gesture and the sign represent lightness and strength, the hint of the yellow peach (perceived upon tasting) leaves a permanent trace of itself.

The bottled wine is normally stored in temperaturecontrolled rooms.

SENSORY NOTES

Colour: straw yellow with enchanting golden hues.

Aroma: complex, powerful, embracing. Rich and multifaceted bouquet: the floral contribution of daisy and white wisteria evolves into notes of ripe fruit with apricot and yellow peach highlights.

Poggio Anima 2019 Samael Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy ($17.99)

Gusto: voluminoso, croccante, compatto. Pieno e progressivo. L’attacco è complesso e vellutato, fresco ed avvolgente. Eccellente corrispondenza aromatica al palato vengono arricchite da una bella freschezza e dalla piacevole sapidità. Il finale è fresco, teso e molto persistente con retrogusto di agrumi e frutta bianca.

Abbinamenti: particolarmente indicato per i piatti di pesce, antipasti di molluschi, risotti e sformati di verdure.

Servire a: 12-14° C

Taste: voluminous, crisp, intense, full-bodied. Rich and gradual. It is complex and velvety, fresh and inviting. Superb aromatic matching on the palate is enriched by a beautiful freshness and pleasant savouriness. The finish is fresh, taut and long-lasting with an aftertaste of citrus and white fruit.

Pairings: particularly suitable for fish dishes, shellfish hors d’oeuvres, risottos and vegetable pies.

Serving temperature: 12-14° C

Riccardo Campinoti, Winemaker, Poggio Anima: “There is an everyday dichotomy between good and bad in the world. Looking for balance in all things (including wine) is a vital quest for many. The white wines are named after religious archangels, while the reds are named after fallen angels. Each wine is specifically named for a persona of the grape, region, or style of the wine. In Jewish texts, Samael is better known as the ‘Angel of Death.’ Samael is both good and evil in that he does the work of God but desires man to do evil. Samael is viewed as the seducer, assuming the role of the serpent and tempting Eve in the Garden of Eden. The correlation here is that Montepulciano can be a very alluring and seductive grape that lends itself to pleasurable drinking. That said, oftentimes, Montepulciano is simple and thin. In many ways, it can offer both the good and bad of wine.”

Verum 2020 La Posada Verdejo La Mancha, Spain ($14.99)

Elias Lopez Montero, Winemaker, La Posada: “I spoke with our designer, Pedro Monjardin, who is based in Madrid, and told him about the type of wine we were doing. We asked Pedro to create a label that reflects Spanish culture in a modern way—without being rustic and old fashioned. We also wanted to express that La Posada is a wine for any occasion. La Posada is not listening to the trends, but we believe in its roots, and we trust that this style of wine will last forever—as will all the Spanish themes we chose: Don Quixote, the olive leaf, grapes, the bull, the art from Velazquez, and the flamenco dancers. They connect us to our roots.”

JAX 2019 Taureau Red Blend Napa Valley, USA ($45.99)

Dan Parrot, CEO, Jax Vineyards: “‘Taureau’ was the name of the Jackson family’s prized bull, legendary for his feisty, high-kicking, and vibrant personality. When perfecting this wine at their blending session, the JAX team concurred that the complex personality of their infamous bull reflected the complex structure and elements of this indulgent red blend—and what a perfect tribute to their family ranching legend. I believe some people want a little more than just a family crest or brand logo. The drawing of Taureau was done by [vineyard owners] Kimberly and Trent’s mother, Jane Jackson. Jane has been an artist and designer her whole life, and we loved adding that family touch as we are a small family winery.”

A.A. Badenhorst 2020 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($28.99)

Adi Badenhorst, Winemaker and Proprietor: “Each of the labels made has small details that tie back to either the family or a person or quality that helped create the wine. The Secateurs name is derived from the pruning shears that are used in the vineyard. This wine is an homage to those who work in the vineyards— from pruning in winter to harvesting in summer. The diagonal yellow band represents the sun and our eldest born, Samuel Sunnyskies Badenhorst. The jackal—representing the winery’s location on Jakkalsfontein Road—is helpfully positioned at the halfway mark on the bottle, so you can easily—and equitably— share a bottle with a friend.”

Château Méaume 2019 Bordeaux Supérieur, France ($21.99)

Sandra Johnson-Hill, Propriétaire, Château Méaume: “While the Bordeaux wine labels will have to adhere to strict regulations governing the factual information included on its veneer, the remaining space is open to the creativity and ingenuity of the winery. At Château Méaume, the current wine label has been the face of our wine bottles since 1980. Once all the strict Bordeaux Superieur regulations had been adhered to, Mark’s uncle Alan Johnson-Hill decided to put the chateau front and centre. To bring its personality and presence to the label, Alan sought the help of his close friend Tom Briggs, an internationally recognized architect and artist, known for his beautiful precision drawings of well-known buildings in Hong Kong.”

Chef Connie Klassen Pizzeria Gusto

Photos by Ian McCausland

Growing up in Morris, Manitoba, Chef Connie Klassen started out on a very different path than the culinary world she now inhabits. Her traditional Mennonite diet was truly a world away from the contemporary Italian fare she is known for at Pizzeria Gusto. When her early chosen career— accounting—wasn’t a good fit (in her defence, she chose that direction at age 12 to get out of science class), she decided that culinary school was her new calling. She went straight into Red River with no experience in the kitchen, growing skills with a stint in West Van and with a tight-knit crew at The Fairmont Winnipeg. She landed at Pizzeria Gusto in 2011, where she has been feeding Winnipeggers in search of fresh Italian food rooted in tradition as head chef since 2017.

The secret ingredient in your fridge: Lapsang souchong is a tea I use to cure meats and make seasonings. It brings a nice little smokiness.

Most interesting current food trend: I focus on foods that are healthy and sustainable for our bodies and for the planet, so I focus on local and working with farmers. I would say that it is gaining popularity, but I hope it’s a shift, not just a trend!

Your profession if you weren’t a chef: A pilot. I would love to fly.

Most popular wine on your menu: Botter Bianco Nero Prosecco (Italy).

Favourite kitchen gadget: Vitamix—and of course, the forno oven (which is not as portable).

Favourite cookbook: I use Thomas Keller’s recipe for fresh pasta. I use The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg for planning features. I also

Pollo Pizza: fig mascarpone cream, chilies, house bacon, fornobraised chicken, fior di latte, local basil, salsa verde

like their book, What to Drink with What You Eat. It pairs any beverage with any food—and because it’s by chefs (who have the worst diets), they have drink pairings for food like the McChicken and Kit Kats. It’s super fun.

The first dining experience that made you excited about food: My favourite food experience is probably eating pupusas with a Salvadoran friend at Mercadito Latino. At their former Henderson Highway location, which was more of a market, they had four tables, and the chef/owner of the market would cook for friends. She took us into the little backroom, and there was this little window where we watched her cook. She started talking to us about what she was cooking, why it was called pupusas, and why they are truly El Salvadoran because the pupusa flower only grows there. It was so delicious, and it’s something that I had previously never experienced.

Favourite place to eat out on your day off: Sargent Taco Shop. Carlos is such a great person, and his food is so amazing.

Guilty pleasures:

I don’t have time to feel guilty about things that I love!

Cavatelli with house-made fennel sausage, seasonal mushrooms, Calabrian chili sauce, San Marzano tomatoes, ricotta, local basil

Gift Baskets

HOURS:

REGULAR HOURS:

The team at Jones & Company Wine Merchants congratulates Tina Jones for receiving the Queen Elizabeth II Platinum Jubilee Medal. The medal celebrates those who have dedicated themselves to the service of family, community, and country.

Philanthropy and community are of key importance to Tina Jones. For over 20 years, she has contributed to Manitoban and Canadian charities and community organizations by means of donations, donations in kind, and community building.

Congratulations Tina Jones

Recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Platinum Jubilee Medal

She also devotes significant personal time, energy, and funds to serve charitable boards and causes, raising many millions of dollars in support of these charities. Most notably, she serves as Chair of the Board of the Health Sciences Centre Foundation.

The first step in making a better world is to imagine it. The next step is to chase that vision and work to see it become reality. Congratulations Tina, for your part in making this a better world.

5 Questions for Col McBryde, Some Young Punks

Can a wine be described as charismatic? Irreverent? When Col, Nic Bourke, and Jen Gardner decided over beers to “start a little wine brand,” they certainly didn’t have grand plans to be a part of a revolution in wine label artwork. As Some Young Punks in Adelaide, Australia, they set out to design a brand that didn’t take itself too seriously. Their labels were meant to capture the attention of wine lovers, and the wine was meant to hold it. Their Pulp Series made a big splash on our shelves, showcasing a series of cheeky covers from 1950s pulp fiction novels. The wildly popular labels went through a recent re-branding—so Mike Muirhead took the opportunity to ask Col about the new vision.

1Your wine labels have always stood out on our shelves. What is the idea behind the original pulp novelthemed labels?

The Pulp labels were a function of familiarity. It bounded a time when ideas around packaging were still typically parochial, and we wanted to do something a little more fun and something that resonated with us also. Nic had been a keen collector of ephemera from his teenage years, and he had a slew of these pulp novels, which we’d thumb through late nights after too many beers when we were studying at uni. So we found a source, and we licensed the use of them. Now, we weren’t by any stretch of the

Interview by Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, ISG, CMS

imagination the first, or even near the front, when it came to changing the way wine was packaged. We just had an idea at a time when there was a lot of change, and it caught people’s attention.

2

Your newest label for Passion has taken a large departure from the original theme but is still as eyecatching as the last incarnation. What was the impetus for this change?

We’ve had the Pulp range for 15 years, and it was time for a change. So, we thought we’d shake it up a little bit and travel in a direction that’s quite different. Jake Forman is an Adelaide artist with a cool style. We just said, “what’s your interpretation of these labels?” And he did the rest. We’re super happy with them.

3

Does the artwork on the bottles represent the winemaking inside?

Nah, not for Punks. It’s still about a modicum of fun. We just want to make delicious wines that people enjoy drinking. The package is the ultimate garnish. It’s there for conversation, a factor to bolster another memory, building on an idea that if someone has tried one of our wines before and enjoyed them, they might just want to try another—or more.

Col McBryde, courtesy of Some Young Punks

4What has the feedback been from long-time lovers of the wine?

We have received all kinds of feedback, from mortified to offended, inspired to excited. It is a huge style change, and I think many will lament the difference—but times they change, and we have to be mindful that what was cool and irreverent prior can be, to some, offensive or unjust.

5How does a wine stand out from its competition in such a fickle and fast-moving market?

I’ve no idea. We’ve always just done things based on a feeling; something that feels right and fun has always taken precedence. We’ve (potentially foolishly) never engaged in market research to build or create a package; we just do stuff we think is cool. Ultimately, the most important facet is the product. If the wine in the bottle isn’t engaging and enjoyable, then it will soon be found out, never to be bought again.

The Pulp line underwent a transformation in design for the 2021 vintage: Passion Has Red Lips is now simply known as Passion and Naked on Roller Skates is now Naked.

Planning starts with a focus on the bigger picture.

At Lawton Partners, we guide our clients with insight and experience. We believe it’s important to be leaders in our community as well as in business.

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The Great Gadget Challenge

By Mike Muirhead, Saralyn Mehta, and Kurt Marykuca

Photos by Ian McCausland

What foodie doesn’t love a good kitchen gadget? Playing with recipes and wine pairings is one of the great perks of working with wine nerds—people who love wine invariably also love a great meal. Facing the Great Gadget Challenge, we reached out to Winnipeg’s foodie destination, d.a. Niels Gourmet Kitchenware. They set us up with three of their most popular kitchen gadgets—the Breville Fast Slow Cooker, the Joule Sous Vide, and the Smoking Gun—and we challenged our food and wine experts to bring their best recipes and wine parings.

With food prices soaring, Mike Muirhead loves using sous vide (a process of slow-cooking meat in a carefully temperaturecontrolled water bath) to get prime rib tenderness and flavour out of less expensive cuts of beef. Saralyn Mehta brought us a great slow-cooker chicken cacciatore that can be prepped in the morning and enjoyed in the evening. And WOW Catering’s Kurt Marykuca, an avid fisherman, tackled the Smoking Gun—a new way to infuse smoky flavour into food and drink! He smoked salmon fillets—and to be honest, it was so much fun, we tried smoking almost everything in the kitchen that day! Mike and Saralyn paired incredible wines to make these meals extra special.

The Breville Fast Slow Cooker, Joule Sous Vide, and Smoking Gun, as well as the Himalayan Salt Block Cooking Plate, are courtesy of d.a. Niels Gourmet Kitchenware. Speciality oils, vinegars, and salts used in our recipes are available at Frescolio Fine Oil + Vinegar Bar.

ROSEMARY ROAST BEEF WITH CRISPY SMASHED POTATOES

4 lb chuck roast 6 sprigs fresh rosemary, split 6 cloves of garlic, split 2 tbsp butter

sea salt & pepper for seasoning

In addition to the sous vide cooker, you will need a large pot of water and a vacuum sealer or an extra-large sealable freezer bag.

Remove the roast from the fridge 1 hour before cooking and salt liberally on all sides. Place your sous vide cooker in the pot of water and set your temperature to 130°F (this will give you a perfect medium-rare roast). Strip 4 sprigs of rosemary and roughly chop 4 cloves of garlic.

When your water is to temperature, pepper all sides of the roast, rub it with the rosemary and garlic, and place it in the freezer bag or vacuum sealer bag. If using a vacuum sealer: vacuum seal the bag. If using a freezer bag: slowly lower your freezer bag into the water—this will expel the air so the roast will remain submerged in the water (air bubbles make it float to the surface). Seal the freezer bag once the air is expelled. Attach the bag to the side of your pot with a clothespin or bag clip so it does not float into the sous vide machine. Leave the meat submerged for 20–24 hours.

30 minutes before serving: Preheat oven to 250°F. Remove the plastic bag containing the roast from the water bath. Remove the roast and discard any garlic and rosemary.

Preheat a cast iron skillet to medium-high until it is very hot. Add olive oil and sear the roast on all sides until a brown crust forms. Once you place the beef in the pan to sear, leave it alone for 2–3 minutes per side—try not to move it until you flip it.

In a small pan, melt butter on medium-low heat. Sauté 2 cloves of minced garlic and the remaining fresh rosemary for 2 minutes. Spoon the garlic rosemary butter over the roast. Put the pan in the oven until it is ready to serve. (No need to rest the meat.)

Smashed Potatoes

2 lbs baby potatoes (yellow are best for smashing)

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped

2–3 cloves garlic, minced salt & pepper

Boil the potatoes in salted water until a fork can easily pierce them through (15–20 minutes). Drain and let them cool in a colander. (At this point, the potatoes can be refrigerated overnight if you are serving them the next day.)

To bake: Preheat oven to 400°F. Place the potatoes on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Using the back of a spatula, smash the potatoes flat (till they are about 1/4-inch thick). Drizzle with olive oil.* Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with rosemary and garlic. Bake for 40–45 minutes until crispy brown, flipping after 20 minutes.

recommends using their Garlic- or Rosemary-infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil for the potatoes and a robust varietal like Italian Peranzana for the beef.

CHICKEN CACCIATORE

1 whole chicken, in pieces (skin on)

1 tsp sea salt

½ cup flour

1 tbsp Italian seasoning

½ tsp sweet paprika

½ tsp smoked paprika

2 tbsp olive oil*

2 cups mixed mushrooms (morel, cremini, portobello), sliced

1 medium yellow onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 red pepper, diced

1 green pepper, diced

3 bay leaves

1 tbsp dry thyme

1 tsp black pepper

3 sprigs fresh rosemary cup chopped basil

800 ml can San Marzano crushed tomatoes

1 cup beef stock

pasta of your choosing fresh Italian parsley and parmesan cheese to garnish

Mix flour, Italian seasoning, and paprika. Season chicken pieces with salt and dredge in flour mixture. Heat olive oil on medium-high, then sear the chicken until the skin is crispy.

In the slow cooker, add chopped mushrooms, onions, garlic, red and green pepper, bay leaves, dried thyme, and black pepper. Add the seared chicken, then pour crushed tomatoes and beef stock over top. Cook on low for 9 hours.

One hour before serving, add fresh rosemary and basil.

When ready to plate, cook pasta to al dente. Gently remove chicken pieces with tongs and a large spoon (it will be falloff-the-bone tender) and serve on a bed of pasta. Spoon the cacciatore sauce over the chicken and garnish with chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley and parmesan to taste.

*Frescolio’s oil experts recommend using the Tuscan Herbinfused Extra Virgin Olive Oil to heighten the herbal background in this recipe.

PAIR

APPLEWOOD SMOKED SALMON WITH MANGO SALSA

4–8 oz salmon fillets

1 tbsp olive oil*

½ tsp sea salt cracked pepper

1 ripe mango peeled, cored, and diced small ½ cup red bell pepper, diced small ½ cup orange bell pepper, diced small ½ cup red onion, diced small

½ cup pineapple juice

¼ cup lime juice (about 2 limes)

½ cup chopped cilantro

1 tbsp ground cumin ½ jalapeno, minced (or to taste) sea salt & fresh cracked pepper

Salsa: Starting with mango, mix together the next 10 ingredients for the salsa. If you want less spice, strip the seeds out of the jalapenos and discard before mincing. Refrigerate for a minimum of 2 hours. This salsa keeps well in the fridge for up to 5 days and also goes well with tuna or as a turkey burger topper.

Salmon: Fill the smoking gun chamber with applewood smoked chips. Place the salmon in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Place the hose under the plastic wrap, with the plastic sealed around it. Following the smoking gun instructions, fill the bowl with dense smoke and seal tightly (so no smoke escapes). Refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours or overnight, re-smoking once or twice if the smoke dissipates.

To cook: Brush salmon with olive oil* and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes.

*Frescolio suggests amping up the smoky flavour with Cold Smoked-infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Applewood Smoked Sea Salt. For the salsa, substitute half of the lime juice with Jalapeno Lime White Balsamic Vinegar for extra zing.

SHOP LOCAL: Ingredients

One of our secret flavour weapons is using the infused extra virgin olive oils, vinegars, and salts from at Frescolio Fine Oil + Vinegar: check the bottom of each recipe for their recommendations. We got our meat at our local butcher, Marcello’s Meats, and salmon at Gimli Fish Market. Fresh herbs and produce are from Jardins St-Léons Gardens and De Luca’s

PAIR WITH:

Primosic

culinary

Todd Antonation of Jones & Company works closely with our Culinary Partners to create wine lists that align with and complement their menus in both flavour profiles and price points. These are some of the exciting pairings on their fall and winter menus.

1. Amsterdam Tea Room: A North–South pairing of Marinière PEI Mussels (white wine, garlic, onion, parsley, and cream) served with fresh bread and the fresh tropical intensity of Ka Tahi Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

2. P.F. Chang’s: Crispy Honey Shrimp is lightly battered with tangy honey sauce and green onion, which pairs perfectly with the zingy citrus fruit flavours of Bees Knees Chenin Blanc/Viognier from the Journeys End winery in South Africa.

3. Restö at Thermëa Spa: Chef Maximus Navarro offers the Roasted Game Hen with porcini compound butter, smashed garlic potato bar, pea purée, and Manitoba honey glazed carrots paired with El Grillo y la Luna’s 12 Lunas Red Blend (Spain).

4. Peasant Cookery: The funky Chilean rosé, Glup Rosado, by Longavi Wine pairs perfectly with the house-smoked Sausage and Red Pepper Pappardelle

5. Prairie’s Edge: Wild Boar Bolognese in a red wine house tomato sauce, ricotta, and chives accompanied with a side of focaccia bread has met its match in this bold Oakbank Cellars

what we’re drinking...

Saralyn Mehta: El Grillo y La Luna 2019 12 Lunas Red Blend Somontano, Spain ($22.99)

Erika Fridrik: Majella 2019 The Composer Coonawarra, Australia ($31.99)

Todd Antonation: Poggio Anima 2020 Gabriel Pecorino Abruzzo, Italy ($17.99)

Josie Duthoit: Le Ragnaie 2018 Troncone Tuscany IGT, Italy ($27.99)

Dylan Watkins: J. Bouchon 2019 Pais Viejo Maule Valley, Chile ($32.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Longavi nv Glup Rosado Maule Valley, Chile ($23.99)

Abby Ilchena: Lubanzi 2020 Chenin Blanc Western Cape, South Africa ($22.99) Alyona Lyubytska: Grano A Grano 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA ($24.99)

our favourite labels

Anton Sikorsky: Maison Harbour

Gary

Ricki-Lee Podolecki: Ventisei

Apryl

Mike Muirhead: Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Cenerentola Orcia,

Benoit Vouillon:

Cellars

Jenny VanDenDriessche: Innocent Bystander 2021 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley,

Drink your appellations— they are good for you

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Prosecco DOCG bears the seal of the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry, along with a QR code to verify the wine’s authenticity.

Have you ever had Champagne from a can? How about Chianti Classico wine in a bag-in-box? And what does that word “Reserva” mean? To find the answers to these questions, just look up The Rules

In wine, The Rules ride under the banner of appellations Appellations are geographic areas, but for European Union wines, these are much more than just boundary lines. Any Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) has its own rules, and each country has its own PDO language. The little initials AC or DOCG or DOCa are windows into production details about the where, the what, and the how. The Rules behind these initials can tell you where the grapes were grown; what varieties are allowed; how grape growing and winemaking are done; how much is harvested; in some cases, how much comes off the press; and what happens in fermentation, maturation, bottling, and timing before a wine’s release from the winery. Regulations restrict what can be done and effectively create a list of what cannot be done.

The Rules for Italian Chianti Classico mean that this wine cannot go out to market dressed in anything but a straightshouldered bottle, sealed with a cork—no screwtop, no bagin-box, no experimental tetra pack. Spanish Reserva wines must spend certain amounts of time ageing in oak and in bottle before release. Wines often need to be submitted for evaluation before approval for particular PDO designations. No authentic Champagne or Prosecco can be sold in cans. Even if the producer thinks they have a better idea, they are not allowed to experiment with PDO wines. And these are not just rules on paper: regulators check in, inspect, and even prosecute rule-breakers.

The Rules are not an absolute guarantee of high quality, but they give a standard of expectation. And in general, the more tightly drawn the appellation, the higher our expectations

can be: a wine labelled “Brunello di Montalcino DOCG” will be from a much tighter boundary, made in a different way under more stringent rules than a wine labelled “Toscana Rosso IGT”—even if they both contain 100% Sangiovese.

Outside the European Union, rules differ from country to country. In general, geographic provenance is the focus. A “Napa Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon has tighter boundaries of production than a “California” Cabernet Sauvignon (and the required percentage of actual Cabernet Sauvignon in these wines is different). At the same time, a California winemaker can grow whatever varieties they think best, train vines how they wish, harvest when and how they want, and make wines as they see fit.

At the other end are rules so loose or unenforced as to be meaningless. A French winemaking friend told me that when she was in an internship at a New World winery, she was directed to “make Pinot Noir” by mixing leftover Pinot Noir skins with white wine grapes. She could scarcely believe she was being asked to do it: “In France, we complain about all the rules, but I realized that the absence of rules can be a very bad thing.”

Appellation regulations are not written in stone. In the face of climate change, some appellations are adding climatehardy varieties to approved lists. Boundaries, designations, and limitations can change from time to time. But one thing an appellation offers is a set of rules that can give a bit of the story and something of an ingredient list. So far, I have not seen any appellation regulation anywhere that endorses the logic of Pinot Noir skins + white wine grapes = a quality red Pinot Noir—and I am happy about that.

So here’s to you, ever compliant.