The Cellar Door Issue 46

OVER 80 YEARS

OF COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCE.

OVER 80 YEARS OF COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCE.

Our team not only specializes in buying and selling, we also assist with tax appeals, can refer you to the best contractors, and moving companies Winnipeg has to offer, as well as guide you with any design decisions you may need to maximize your space and real estate return.

EXPERTISE YOU CAN DEPEND ON

EXPERTISE YOU CAN DEPEND ON

One of Winnipeg’s most iconic properties!

One of Winnipeg’s most iconic properties!

Completely remodelled, this character home is truly a Crescentwood beauty.

Completely remodelled, this character home is truly a Crescentwood beauty.

Call us for more information!

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Our team not only specializes in buying and selling, we also assist with tax appeals, can refer you to the best contractors, and moving companies Winnipeg has to offer, as well as guide you with any design decisions you may need to maximize your space and real estate return. @theparkesteam www.theparkesteam.ca |

THE PARKES TEAM

THE PARKES TEAM

(From left) Becky Parkes, Brad Parkes (personal Real Estate corporation), Garry Parkes, Rachael Danylyk & Dylan Keats

(From left) Becky Parkes, Brad Parkes (personal Real Estate corporation), Garry Parkes, Rachael Danylyk & Dylan Keats

When you need solutions, not scenarios.

With the single-minded goal of providing you with the best solutions, we pair our business acumen with our knowledge of the law to empower you to make smart, strategic decisions. At

34 Five Questions for Julio Bouchon

Your

48 What Grows Together Goes Together

Homes designed to fit your lifestyle.

Wine gets better with age Technology needs upgrades

Cellar Door the

Publisher and Editor

Lisa Muirhead

lisa@poisepublications.com

Editorial Board

Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin, Abby Pelechaty, Ricki-Lee Podolecki

Graphic Design

Ryan Germain

ryan.germain@gmail.com

Contributors

Todd Antonation, Kristin Froese, Lesley Glendinning, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Paige Jasper, Tina Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Gabrielle Konowalchuk, Alyona Lyubytska, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin, Abby Pelechaty, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Anton Sikorsky, Dylan Watkins

Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc.

www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, email lisa@poisepublications or visit poisepublications.com/the-cellar-door.

Canada’s Digital Adoption Program (CDAP) allows your business to access up to $15,000 to engage an expert consultant through the Boost Your Business Technology grant. Let us assist you through every step of the process – and help you uncork your potential through the strategic use of digital technologies.

Andrew Stibbard, CPA, CA, Regional Managing Partner

204.788.6097

andrew.stibbard@mnp.ca MNP.ca

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.

1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463

JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants

© 2023 Poise Publications Inc.

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a message from tina jones

This issue marks our 15th year of The Cellar Door magazine—and as we head into this issue, we rediscover just how challenging this industry is. It is a fractured, ever-moving picture, with tens of thousands of wine producers, each with a place in our global industry. We strive to equip you, our readers, with the tools you need to grow with us and hear more stories about the farmers, families, and winemakers we support. It is the people behind these labels that make this work so personal and rewarding for us.

It is an exciting time in the wine industry! There was a time in North America when one could expect, at best, a few dozen options on any given wine list, but now guests rightfully expect to discover new, exciting lists featuring small producers and growers from far-off corners of the wine world. Our job is to bring this big picture into frame for you and our restaurant partners. We help you focus on the parts that will enrich your wine experience.

In this issue, we share our thoughts on some of the big topics in the wine industry, as complex as it is. Gary Hewitt and Mike Muirhead tackle the corporatization of the wine industry and how it affects the diversity of choices available to you—as well as how the digital age is shaping how wine lovers make decisions about their purchases. Ricki-Lee Podolecki breaks down the very different palates of three generations of wine drinkers, and Sylvia Jansen challenges our thinking about what wines actually merit “100 points.”

This issue marks a special anniversary—a time to reflect on what we have explored together. We thank you, our readers, for your enthusiastic feedback; our advertisers and restaurant partners who help us bring you amazing articles and images; and our team at The Cellar Door for coming together for the last 15 years to learn, teach, and share all that our industry has to offer.

Cheers to many more!

Tina Jones

ask a sommelier

I feel like my palate has changed over time. Is that a thing?

—Andrea Johnston

Yes, our palates change over time! Wines change, wine styles change, and our opinions about wine styles change—all of which affect how we respond. Age can also be a factor: human taste buds do not regenerate as quickly as we get older, which can mean a greater preference for bolder flavours.

Then there is the factor of acquired tastes: over multiple trials and a willingness to keep trying, appreciation for a previously rejected food or drink can develop (try a dry fino Sherry 10 times—I suggest Hidalgo). This brings environment and emotion into play: surrounded by people you love who are lovers of a particular wine style, seismic palate shifts can happen. As well, the “same” wine changes over multiple decades: 1970s Bordeaux reds were about 12% alcohol, and tannins were sharper; today, the same cuvée might weigh in at 14.5% with riper tannins. All in all, an ever-moving set of factors can contribute to your perception of wines changing over time. Trust your palate (and your favourite wine expert) to guide you through new and exciting wines as your tastes change!

—Sylvia Jansen

What is your best advice for choosing a wine at a restaurant when you aren’t familiar with what is on the wine list?

—Aidan Biggs

Wine lists can be intimidating! Use these helpful tips to make your decision-making a little easier:

Pre-plan: Many restaurants have their wine list posted online, so looking them up before you go can help the decisionmaking process or can give you time to research what some exciting food and wine pairings could be.

Ask the staff: Asking staff for help navigating a wine list is the best tool at your disposal. Depending on how much wine training they have, they can direct you to the best pairings with your meal or let you know the current customer favourites. Many restaurants offer samples

for by-the-glass pours. Don’t be afraid to ask, as it will help the server learn your palate and lead you toward the best choice.

Organization: Look at how the menu is laid out. Many casual sit-down restaurants organize the list by style (light wine to bold wine), and you can narrow down options using this system. If wines are listed by region, remember: what grows together goes together—if you order pasta, try an Italian wine; if you have a meat-heavy meal, try something from Argentina.

permitted to a small extent. Some wines labelled as “made with organic grapes” indicate that the winemaking is not totally organic, in that sulphites or other adjuncts may be used. Many winemakers (especially in Europe) who have farmed organically for generations cannot be bothered to pay for certification, so just ask us for our favourite organic winemakers (both certified and stubbornly uncertified).

Wines by Domaine Montrose, including their Viognier ($22.99) and their Salamandre Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah ($41.99), are beautiful organic French wines. I also recommend ERA’s Pinot Grigio ($19.99) and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($18.99) as lovely, affordable Italian options.

Text Team Jones: Our Text A Sommelier service is the perfect tool when you are stuck deciding! Simply text a photo of the wine list to 204-400-0499 (from 9 am to 9 pm), and one of our highly trained wine experts will get back to you within minutes with rescue recommendations. Our customers have texted us menus from Hawaii to Tuscany to get our recommended food and wine pairings!

—Ricki-Lee Podolecki

What is the difference between organic and biodynamic wine?

—Jessica Stewart

The goals of both biodynamic and organic viticulture are to strengthen the vineyard and improve fruit (and therefore wine) quality at the same time. Some of the most prestigious and well-respected wine producers around the world grow their grapes organically or practice biodynamic principles.

Organic wines follow distinct practices that are regulated by regional certification rules. Broadly, growing organic grapes means farming without using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or synthetic fertilizers to boost your crops. In the winemaking process, sulphites cannot be added to organic wines, but those that occur naturally (as a byproduct of the winemaking process) are

Biodynamic wines follow many of the same principles as organic, but biodynamic winemaking also encompasses holistic, almost spiritual, components that synchronize growing practices with lunar and celestial phases. Biodynamic principles, created by Rudolf Steiner, consider the vineyard a continuous ecosystem—the living soil, flora and fauna, and grape vines are all a part of this interrelated system. Some growing principles are also based on an astronomic calendar that equates different days in the growing cycle to each of the elements (earth, wind, water, and fire). Each element correlates to biodynamic growing principles. For example, if the calendar indicates an “earth” day, it is a root day in the vineyard, making it the best time to prune the vines. An “air” day indicates a flower day, meaning it is best to leave the vines alone so they can blossom. A “water” day on the calendar is a leaf day in the vineyard, meaning it’s a good day to water your vines, and a “fire” day is a fruit day, meaning it is time to harvest the grapes.

We have some really beautiful biodynamic wines in the store, including Jonc-Blanc Fruit Rouge from Bergerac, France ($29.99) and Kaltern K White from Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($23.99). We also carry four biodynamic wines from Zinck’s Portrait line: Pinot Noir ($36.99), Pinot Gris ($29.99), Gewürztraminer ($29.99) and Pinot Blanc ($25.99).

—Saralyn Mehta

QUESTIONS FOR OUR SOMMELIERS?

TEXT (9 AM-9 PM): 204.400.0499 @JONESWINEMERCHANTS

The secret behind a good mood

“After 12 long years of making really good wines for really nice people, I decided it was time to make some even better wines for myself. And obviously for you too. If you are keen on good wines that ooze personality, and want to keep up with the Jones’s, this is the place to be.”

RADLEY & FINCH

ALLEY PACK CHENIN BLANC $24.99

BALANCED, ROUNDED, SNEAKY STONE FRUIT, FRESH CEREALS

RADLEY & FINCH

LAZY HARE SHIRAZ $24.99

DEFINING, ACCOMPLISHED, RESTRAINED FLORAL, RED, DARK, JUICY

WHITE PEACH, WAX AND VERY SUBTLE SPICE. FRUIT AND OAK SWEETNESS BACKED BY TANNIN

Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.

VIKING POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC $24.99

CRISP AND DRY, UNLIKE A VIKING BOAT. RIPER TROPICAL FRUIT, VIBRANT PALATE

CRUNCHY RED FRUIT, FRESH GREEN TANNIN

Featured wines available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

Thinus Krüger CEO & PRESIDENT, WINEMAKER, GRAPE CRUSHER, SOLE EMPLOYEE

FRAM GRENACHE GRIS $36.99 RAW ALMONDS AND MARZIPAN, FLORAL AROMAS.

FRAM CHENIN BLANC $42.99

FRAM CINSAULT $36.99

RADLEY & FINCH

jones & company

The Cellar Door 15th Anniversary Advertisers’ Event: 1. Manon Paquin and Tina Jones; 2. Lisa Muirhead and Ken Aird; 3. Karly and Brad Ganczar, Mick Neufeld, and Krista Koop; 4. Lee and Rachel Barringer with Sylvia Jansen; 5. Clarice Maré, Don White, Kathy Schwartz, Doug Stephen, and Brennan Pratt; 6. O’Danis Fast, Dan Rutherford, Beverly Rutherford, and Dylan Fast.

The Cellar Door is celebrating 15 years!

The Cellar Door 15th Anniversary Advertisers’ Event: 7. Bonnie Chomiak, Robyn Anderson, and Shaelyn Saunders; 8. Emma Schettler, Shawn Alwis, and Becky Parkes; 9. Ray DuBois, Garry Parkes, Samara Bouchard, Tarren Jones, and Jeanne DuBois; 10. Toni Hudson, Jihan Aquino, Eric Robert, and Giselle Pieczonka; 11. Jill Kwiatkoski, Jen and Mike Goreski, Shirley and Paul Martens.

WINNIPEG’S CULTURAL HEART BEATS

AT THE FORKS. ON THIS HISTORICAL MEETING

GROUND, MANITOBANS

SHARE THEIR LIVES, FOOD, ART, AND MUSIC WITH EACH OTHER AND WITH VISITORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

The Inn at the Forks takes its place at this cultural centre as a destination for business travellers, local groups and gatherings, vacationers, and stay-cationers. In our oasis at the city centre, all are welcomed in to experience fresh Manitoba cuisine, rejuvenation and wellness, one-of-a-kind Manitoban service and hospitality, and a little slice of luxury where they can lay their heads.

At Inn at the Forks, we have created a destination for locals and out-of-towners alike, known for our focus on luxury, sustainability, courtesy, and style. Our meeting rooms for groups of 5 to 200 offer astonishing views of the river, the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, the Forks, and Winnipeg’s Downtown. Our guest rooms and suites are both sophisticated and comfortable, offering contemporary décor and snapshots of the most stunning views of the city. To ease your worries about your travel footprint, we are Green Key certified—the leading global standard of excellence in environmental responsibility and sustainable operations in the tourism industry.

SMITH RESTAURANT

Our commitment to elegance and service is evident as soon as you walk into the warm, modern rooms of SMITH Restaurant. Our menu is upscale, with big flavours created from the diverse lands and waters across Manitoba and Canada. In addition to nightly features, Chef Quinlan Cook invites you to Sunday dinner each week for homestyle dinner features. The lounge offers a range of spaces to gather in intimate moments and larger parties—and we feature Wednesday Night Jazz and live music Friday and Saturday evenings. The dining room is spacious with warm wood accents, and we offer several options for private dining: the Cabin offers your group of up to 12 people the feeling of dining in a sleek lake getaway; the Library offers a larger table for meetings and family celebrations (up to 22); and the Solstice is a sun-filled room for big, boisterous groups to gather, mingle, and eat (up to 50).

RIVERSTONE SPA

Riverstone Spa’s contemporary luxury setting will wash away outside worries and stresses from the moment you walk through the doors. In the retail boutique, you will find a range of locally made self-care products carefully selected to recreate the Riverstone experience in the comfort of your home. Our massage, skincare, and body treatments cater to your individual wellness needs, and we also fully cater to couples and groups in a nurturing and soothing environment that makes the outside world simply fall away.

Whether you are thousands of miles from home or just a few neighbourhoods away, everyone from our gracious front desk staff to our servers, estheticians and therapists, managers, and housekeeping staff strive to make Inn at the Forks a mecca of comfortable luxury and style in a truly welcoming atmosphere.

In addition to the bustle of The Forks, Inn at the Forks serves as the epicentre of Winnipeg’s art and culture scene.

Adjacent to:

• Canadian Museum for Human Rights

• Children’s Museum

• Manitoba Theatre for Young People

• Forks ScotiaBank Stage

• Shaw Park Baseball Stadium

Walking distance from:

• Manitoba Museum & Planetarium

• Centennial Concert Hall

• Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre

• Canada Life Centre, concert venue and home of the Jets

• Le Musée de Saint-Boniface

• Winnipeg Art Gallery and Qaumajuq

• Saint Boniface, Winnipeg’s French Quarter

• The Exchange District

• Osborne Village

LangeTwins Family Winery & Vineyards

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

Many of the Old World wineries we deal with are rooted in family wine histories that go back centuries. New World wineries had a later start than those in Europe, but we have built up relationships with many who also claim very impressive pedigrees. One of these amazing wineries—which we have worked with for over 15 years— is LangeTwins Family Winery & Vineyards in Lodi, California. LangeTwins—named after twin brothers Brad and Randall Lange—is the epitome of a family-run winery.

The Lange family has been on their land in Lodi for five generations: Brad and Randall’s grandparents started farming in the 1870s, growing non-irrigated watermelons. Their farm grew, and in 1916 they bought their first vineyards, where the twins’ father gained experience and started the family roots in viticulture. He eventually expanded their farm to include the River Ranch, where the twins would ultimately raise their families and reside to this day.

After returning from college in the 1960s, Brad and Randall purchased a small vineyard from their father and began their farming partnership. At the River Ranch, they built their lives as neighbours, raised their families, and reignited their love for the land. Joe Lange, Randall’s son and the brand’s International Sales Director, describes how “the two evolved their business past solely farming their own acres as their father did, starting a vineyard management company that provided the basis for growth over the last five decades.”

When you drink a fine wine, it is easy to forget that at the root of the experience is agriculture—a risky business that is not for the faint of heart. Joe describes his father and uncle’s journey: “In the early 1970s, they quickly realized that the 135 acres was not enough to provide for their two growing families. They chose to reinvest every nickel and dime back into their farm and vineyard management company—which was made possible with the incomes of their wives, Charlene and Susan.”

In the 2000s, at which time LangeTwins managed 7,000+ acres under vine and 30+ varieties across multiple appellations, they faced a wine industry in a time of major change. As a family, they decided to leverage everything, putting it all on the line to evolve their vineyard business into a winery operation as well. “For us, it was the only way we felt we could better guarantee our sustainable future on the land as farmers first,” says Joe. “Our journey into winemaking started and will always be based on the vines and our love for farming. Ultimately, respect for the farmer and farming is at the core of our family and our business.” Joe’s father, Randall, adds: “We have a family history here in the Lodi region, and we have a connection to the soils that we’re honoured to farm.”

Currently, the family winery’s legacy is being upheld by all five of the twins’ children. Randall’s daughter Marissa is President of the company, and her brothers, Aaron and Joe are VP of Vineyard Operations and International Sales Director, respectively. Brad’s son Philip is the Director of Vineyard Operations, and his daughter Kendra is the Sustainability Manager. “We think generationally, and we farm generationally. I think of my great-grandchildren and what they will do,” says Randall.

Family Grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel (all $27.99); Midnight Reserve Red Blend ($39.99); Centennial Zinfandel ($99.99)

Jones & Company is excited to carry the new Family Grown line from LangeTwins along with the Midnight Reserve Bordeaux-style Red Blend and Centennial Old Vine Zinfandel that we have carried for years. Joe describes this new line of wines: “As a wine-drinking family, we’ve always appreciated those wines which

pack in the value and really overdeliver on quality. These bottlings are focused on being varietally true, supremely balanced wines with consistent quality from vintage to vintage. On top of that, these are all dual-certified sustainably grown wines, estate-farmed and from a real farming family—the real deal.”

Three generations of the Lange family (photo courtesy of LangeTwins)

For the Love of Wine

By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier & Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, ISG, CMS

Today’s world has more well-made wine than ever. Advances in agriculture, winemaking, transportation, and storage logistics have largely overcome historical obstacles, such as vineyard disease, fouled fermentations, and mishandled wines. The diversity of available selections from all major

wine regions and from legions of producers is mind-boggling. Wine education and service training have expanding outreach that includes non-traditional markets such as Asia.

We live in a golden age of wine—but will it last? It depends.

On the positive side, winemakers have unprecedented knowledge and tools for controlling fermentation and maturation so that processes run smoothly and reliably to give clean, predictable products. In fact, surveys of consumers’ tastes are often the starting point for bigbrand wines, and their wines are designed to please the average consumer palate. Such wines are clean, fruity, soft, and off-dry, and can be, but are not always, produced on a huge scale. The market is literally gobbling them up. This is great news for the typical consumer. But when we look more closely, what does this mean for wine diversity and small producers?

Big Wine

Today’s global wine industry—and the wines it offers— is incredibly diverse, but strong forces of consolidation are at work. In mid-August, E&J Gallo bought Rombauer. If you are a Chardonnay lover, you know that Rombauer is one of the most recognizable names in California Chardonnay—but aren’t E&J Gallo most

popularly known for that sweet child of the 80s and 90s, White Zinfandel? In fact, Gallo is the fourth largest wine producer globally and the largest privately owned wine producer (they produce 3% of all wine globally)— but you may not know their myriad brands with a covert reach across the market. Among the over 100 brands they produce, you will find everything from value brands such as Barefoot, Apothic, and Dancing Bull to premium brands like Louis Martini, Clos du Bois, and Orin Swift.

They are not alone: brands like Veuve Clicquot, Oyster Bay, and Dom Perignon are all owned by the most powerful luxury brand in the world, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Australian heavyweights Penfolds, Lindemans, Wolf Blass, Wynn’s, and 19 Crimes—plus many others—are owned by Treasury Wine Estates. And, while most of these premium wine brands originated within a long family history of winemaking, the multinationals who acquired them can see these established names from a marketing angle rather than as continuing legacies.

Big Wine’s Top Three

When we talk about Big Wine, we are talking about companies that own and control significant swaths of the commercial wine market share. Below are the case sales of the top three in the United States in 2022.

E&J Gallo

100 million cases

3% global market share

Over 90 brands, including Alamos, Apothic, Barefoot Cellars, Copper Ridge, Dark Horse, Manischewitz

The Wine Group

50 million cases

1.5% global market share

Over 60 brands, including 7 Deadly, Big House Wine Co., Cupcake Vineyards, Franzia

Trinchero Family Estates

20 million cases

Over 50 brands, including Echo Bay, Ménage à Trois, Sutter Home, Trinchero Napa Valley

Source: Based on Wine Business Monthly, February 2023 Review of the Industry. Note that these numbers are wine sales in the US only, and do not represent global revenue or revenue from non-wine products.

The Industry

What is the effect of this type of brand consolidation on the wine industry? There are effects all the way from the vineyard to the consumer experience, including the diversity of the range of products available on the market. Acquisitions and growth mean that companies can cut costs on supplies, production, and distribution. Such cost savings afford the huge companies bigger budgets for marketing and advertising, which allow them to grab a bigger market share.

Our local market presents unique challenges. Manitoba is a highly regulated, high-tax market with a provincial

“monopoly.” The Manitoba Liquor & Lotteries (MBLL) retail operation is based on a grocery or department store model where suppliers compete for shelf placement, pay for promotional programs such as Air Miles and limited-time offers, and subsidize advertising. Currently, prospective wine selections in the MBLL are screened on the basis of how well they sell in other markets. They judge wines based on published reviews; in fact, the screening process does not even include tasting! Such a market plays to the strengths of the big players in the drinks business, reduces our selection, and challenges overall diversity in wine.

The Wine Lover

And what is the effect on you, the wine lover? Industry consolidation, whereby fewer and fewer producers control an ever-increasing percentage of the market, results in industrialized wine, an acceptable, perhaps even very good, homogeneous product. This type of thinking, however, also drives some companies to ignore traditional farming in search of volume and profits in a race to find the next Apothic—a mass-market pleaser that flies off the shelves with an incredible marketing budget behind it. But because some industrialists do not place intrinsic value in the art of winemaking, they are putting out products that do not tell a story of place, tradition, or the people behind it.

Is it hopeless? Certainly not! Our team at Jones & Company works hard to find wines from real people. We value farmers,

winemakers, and wine lovers who value the art of wine. Yes, as you pull back the curtain, it may feel like big, industrialized wines are taking over. However, because new-generation winemakers in all regions are highly educated, and as wine science continues to advance, they are highly motivated to produce great wines and adapt to the new conditions— whether they be a changing climate or evolving market.

Jones & Company will continue to travel the globe to source and support family wineries, experimental projects, and sustainable practices. And then, ultimately, it is up to you, the consumer, to demand unique wines with intriguing stories and distinct character made by dedicated producers. Together, we can nurture an ongoing golden age filled with diverse global wines available locally.

A Face Behind Every Label

We love sharing the stories behind our wines. Next time you are in the store, ask one of our wine experts about their favourite winemaker story!

Viña Zorzal

Three Sanz brothers, Iñaki, Xabier and Mikel, inspired by their father Antonio, created a new “project” in 2007 to rescue native Navarran grape varieties (Graciano), raise the profile of local Garnacha, and develop single-vineyard wines reflecting unique terroir. Now, Viña Zorzal also makes wine in Rioja and collaborates internationally with winemakers who, in turn, make wine in Navarra and then host Zorzal at home.

Weingut Lingenfelder

After 13 generations of Lingenfelders, one might think a winery might stick only to the tried and true. But Rainer Lingenfelder, throughout his tenure, has been true to sustainability (before it was trendy), philosophical in his overall approach, enthusiastic about lesser-known grape varieties (Sheurebe and Mario Muscat), and contrary when appropriate (his Ypsilon Sylvaner and Ganymed Spätburgunder labels defied authorities).

Pinuaga Bodegas y Viñedos

Esther Pinuaga is the third-generation owner and winemaker, working with her father, Valentin, on the family vineyards in Toledo, Spain. They are dedicated to preserving old bush vines and recovering Cencibel, an indigenous clone of Tempranillo originally planted by her grandfather. The Pinuaga vineyards are certified organic, and Esther is Vice President of the Spanish Organic Wine Association.

Chef Mark Merano James Avenue Pumphouse

Photos by Ian McCausland

The first thing you notice about Executive Chef Mark Merano’s enthusiasm for food is his openness and complete lack of pretension. His rise through the ranks from dishwasher at Moxie’s to Executive Chef of James Avenue Pumphouse is characterized by hard work and an eagerness to learn and do what is needed to progress to the next level. When he first moved on to the line in the kitchen, Mark says, it was a matter of “working, grinding, and learning how to be an adult— because the kitchen really shows you how to toughen up. You have to be in the fire.” After a decade of experience at Moxie’s, culminating with the title of Head Chef, he was offered the Executive Chef spot on the opening team at James Avenue Pumphouse. Developing the concept during the pandemic meant that Chef Mark and the team at True Hospitality had the time and focus to develop, test, and perfect recipes, creating a global menu that invites everyone to the table.

Your vision for James Avenue Pumphouse: We started offering global street food, which has evolved into global comfort food. Winnipeg is very diverse, and having a global menu allows different ethnicities to eat food that they are familiar with or try new flavours. Now that people are becoming familiar with our global theme, I want to try to push the boundaries of flavours and techniques more and more. That includes our plant-based menu. A lot of people think vegetarian and vegan food is only health food—just salad or soup. So we wanted to break that perception and offer something a little different.

Your favourite current trend: When we were developing the menu during COVID shutdowns, there were so many trends happening—but one thing no one could do was travel. We wanted people to be able to travel through food. I was excited to learn about different styles and allow people to experience dishes that they couldn’t try somewhere else.

Your favourite cooking inspiration: Right now, online food culture is crazy. You can learn from someone who may not be classically trained but they’re

creating these amazing dishes. If you follow one chef, they have one style. But if you’re learning techniques from a lot of people, you can create this fusion of ideas. I am learning from everyone.

Your profession if you weren’t a chef: A year ago, I probably couldn’t have imagined doing anything else, but recently, I have been developing a new love for photography—so probably a food photographer.

Glazed Salmon Bowl with crispy tofu

Your favourite place to eat on your day off: Sam Po Dim Sum.

The most popular wine on your list: Tempus Two 2021 Silver Series Pinot Grigio.

Your guilty pleasure: I grew up eating a Filipino dish called crispy pata, which is deep-fried pork belly or pig trotters. Think of it as a drumstick, but it tastes like pork belly with crispy skin.

Your dream dinner guests: My grandparents. I would want to see their reaction to oldschool versus new-school cuisine. I lost them at a young age, so they didn’t get to see me here now. And it would be awesome for them to try this kind of food with the flavours they grew up with.

Trapped on a desert island, these are your essential ingredients:

Salt and pepper, rice, spam, and eggs. That was something I grew up eating. I would wake up in the morning to spam and eggs frying up—my dad always made it. Sometimes the best things are simple.

The XL Perogy with smoked Gouda, kielbasa, onions, and fresh dill

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

is holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

holiday season, celebrate with friends, family or co-workers at Winnipeg’s premier restaurants and event centres—or have WOW! Catering provide everything you need for your get-together!

S o, w i ll it b e our place—or yours?

S o, w ill it be our place—or yours?

S o, w ill it be our place—or yours?

o, will it be our place—or yours?

So, will it be our place—or yours?

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

Whether at our place or yours, WOW! Hospitality follows all Manitoba Health Guidelines.

5 Questions for Julio Bouchon, Bouchon Family Wines & Longavi

Interview by Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

When you are born and raised surrounded by vineyards and a family history of winemaking that spans over 130 years, you are bound to embrace your family legacy and carry on the traditions. The Bouchon family’s wine lineage spans both international borders and generations. Emile Bouchon emigrated to Chile from a tiny wine region in France in the late 1880s to start the family wine cellar in Colchagua Valley. His grandson, Julio Sr, studied in France and returned to Chile to expand their family vineyards into the Maule Valley. Today, fourth-generation winemaker and producer Julio Bouchon proudly runs Bouchon Family Wines alongside his brother Juan and sister Maria. He is the global ambassador of the family brand and is making his own mark in history with Longavi—a new international winery project with his long-time friend, David Nieuwoudt, from South Africa.

1

How does your family history as immigrants from France contribute to the identity of Bouchon Family Wines?

Well, easy: the wine is in our blood. When you are born into a family that has been dedicated to wine, it is part of your tradition. When you are a little kid, you see wine on the table; when you see your grandfather working out in the vineyards, it’s in your DNA.

2

What is the significance of having the word “family” in the winery name?

The family is part of every process, every little detail. From important decisions to meeting all of our customers— always, the family is there. So, in the end, the project has a lot of our personality and our own style. We are part of a place—Secano Interior in Maule—and we try to express that region through our wine. When it is the same family making wine in the same place for generations, every bottle carries our stamp.

3How did your partnership with your friend David Nieuwoudt come about, and how have your family traditions impacted the creation of your joint wine, Longavi?

We met in London 20 years ago, presenting our wines at the London Wine Fair. He was next to me in the Bancroft Wines stand. I tasted his wines; he tasted my wines; we had some beer after the show. The year after was the same and then the same again, and we became great friends. We were young, and we wanted to make our own wines, which is also a part of our family tradition. I am part of the fourth

Julio Bouchon in the J Bouchon vineyards (courtesy of Bouchon Family Wines)

generation at Bouchon, and David is the fifth generation at Cederberg in the Western Cape in South Africa, so we have very similar family heritages. I think this was the key to starting to make wine together because we have the same vision. We are farmers, not businessmen. When we started in 2012, we wanted to make something very different, but we ended up making Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc—so not really different from our families. Then after some years, we came up with the Glup wines, which are all about natural fermentations and old vines from heritage varieties—very different from the more classic approach of our families.

from my great-grandfather, such as Pais, Cinsault, Semillon, and Carignan. These varieties are really old in our region, Maule, so they are really well adapted. These days, with the effects of global warming, they are performing much better even though they are dry farmed (without irrigation or trellises). I think Chilean grapes and wines are incredible, but we Chileans must work on our image to promote our more interesting wines. The Pacific and the Andes have an incredible climate, great soils, and you know what else? We have amazing people.

4

A lot of people think that being “sustainable” applies strictly to soil and land practices. What does “sustainability” mean to you and your family?

To be sustainable is not just focusing on land and soil. It is much more complex, where your economy must be a healthy circle. Most important are the people who are working on the project and the growers of your grapes. You need to have a sustainable relationship with them and treat them well instead of making it just a transaction.

5 Has your family ever made planting decisions based on trends (for example, when the popularity of Carménère grew), or have you always stuck to planting what grows best in your vineyards?

Well, this is a great question. For many years in the 1990s, we focused on Bordeaux varieties because this was an easy sell and what the wineries were doing for exports. We followed that trend for 20 years. Now the new generation is 100% focused on patrimonial varieties from vines passed down

Have you tried these new flavours?

Introducing the newest Civettina in the family...

CIVETTINA

ROSSO

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

TERRE SICILANE IGT

TRENDING Three Generations and a Bottle of Wine

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET (a Millennial)

You’re serving on a busy Saturday night at a top-tier restaurant. You approach a table of three and overhear the heated discussion on what wine to order: one guest wants an aged Barolo from the reserve list, the second wants a crisp Chablis, and the third suggests an orange wine from a region no one has heard of. It’s up to you to solve the dilemma of what this diverse trio should order. This small server nightmare is fictional—but a scenario that is possible when serving a Millennial, a Gen X-er, and a Baby Boomer.

How is it that each generation has a drastically different approach to wine selection when all three share a love for wine? Whether you are a Millennial, a Gen X-er, or a Baby Boomer, you likely started your wine journey with the sweet stuff and a wild hangover—with the help of Moscato, White Zinfandel, or Baby Duck, respectively. Some wine journeys (not all) then move into fruity white wines and eventually reds. After venturing through all the styles, we land on what we enjoy drinking the most. This is where our unique drinking habits show our age.

Baby Boomers (born 1946–1964/59–77 years old)

Baby Boomers represent the largest segment of the population for the past 50 years. Because of this, they have been the largest purchasers of wine—until recently. This generation has done its research, and they know what they want. Out of all the generations, they show the most loyalty to wineries, brands, or regions.

Baby Boomers are loyal because of how wine was filtered into the North American market when they were in their 20s and 30s (the 60s and 70s). While imported wine options were slowly popping up in the 1960s (think wines like Blue Nun, Mateus, and Chianti in fiasco baskets), importing wines looked nothing like today: communication was by post and telephone and payment through paper cheques. The 1970s showed huge growth in American markets, leading to more options on the shelves. Without the information technology we have today, suggestions from professionals became the key to what people were buying. Early influencers like Wine Spectator magazine (which launched in the 1970s) and Robert Parker in the 1980s had a massive effect on what arrived in our market. Parker’s love for bold, ageable reds

made its mark: the Baby Boomer generation drinks more reds than any other generation, spends the most per bottle, and is most likely to cellar their wines.

Born a Boomer? Try Fleur Haut Gaussens 2015 Bordeaux

Supérieur, France ($29.99): This wine is a classic Bordeaux Supérieur with a bit of age on it. The winery has been building a reputation since 1941 based on quality and consistency. Each generation learns from and improves on the last, creating consistent, classic Bordeaux.

Generation X (born 1965–1980/43–58 years old)

Gen X has had it good when it comes to wine, music, and so much more. However, when it comes to marketing and sales, they are a much smaller population and are often overlooked. This generation is all about enjoying wine with friends. Gen X has the most diverse purchasing profile compared to the other generations due to how they select their wines.

A recent poll showed that this generation was most likely to make a wine selection based on the recommendation of a friend or sales staff and showed very low interest in awards or wine columns. Their lack of engagement with marketing means they are much more open to new experiences than the generation before them. Gen X is also careful about how they consume wine, with most choosing a drink with friends or during a meal—preferring an experience over daily consumption. Because this generation is open to in-person suggestions and often focuses on pairing wine with food, they are the highest consumers of white wines, show the most diversity in their choices, and are willing to pay mid- to highrange price points on special occasions.

A versatile Gen X-er? Try Cantina Castelnuovo del Garda 2022 Turbiana Lugana Veneto, Italy ($27.99): This wine is versatile for pairing, has a cool story, and is not yet widely known, making it a great wine expert’s recommendation. The Turbiana grape was once thought to be Trebbiano—but DNA testing showed that it was actually closer to Verdicchio. The history and evolving identity of this distinctive variety continue to interest researchers and inspire talented winemakers. It is also a very versatile food-pairing wine that many people have not yet tried.

Millennials (born 1981–1996/27–42 years old)

Millennials are the new target audience when it comes to marketing. They are a larger population than Generation X and purchase the same amount as Baby Boomers—however, at much lower price points. This doesn’t mean they don’t care for premium Old-World wines; it’s more reflective of the economy and how they are sourcing wine. Millennials want to be more connected to and educated about what’s in the glass—and with lifelong access to the Internet, they are the first generation to grow up with this information at their fingertips. Wines that have little to no information on the bottle or online are often left behind (like a Burgundy with a website that has been under construction for 10 years). With an affinity for sustainability, natural wines appeal to many of the “hipsters” in this generation. Millennials choose wines based on recommendations by wine experts at a store, where they look for a great-value wine with a good story. This generation is the largest purchaser of organic, natural, or wines with an interesting story. They want low- to mid-price wines that are ready to drink now.

Adventurous Millennial? Try Finca Casa Balaguer 2019

Tragolargo Monastrell Alicante, Spain ($18.99): This wine comes from a small up-and-coming wine region in Valencia, Spain, called Alicante. This side project of Andres Carull at Finca Casa Balaguer aims to produce stripped-back, honest

wines. Carull believes that the less intervention with the grapes, the better, growing grapes organically and biodynamically. This wine appeals to not only the sustainable mindset of Millennials but also their preferred price point.

Regardless of what generation you fall into, all wine lovers should be open to sharing something old, something new, and something entirely off the map.

Start Shopping Lynn & Liana Serveware in

(L to r): Bordeaux for Boomers, food-friendly Turbiana for Gen X, and affordable sustainability for Millennials.

is

celebrating 15 years of The Cellar Door

... and we want to celebrate with you!

WIN Box Seat Tickets to see

JETS VS. HABS

December 18

Take a trip down memory lane and share your photos from the last 15 years of fun, family, friends & your favourite wines with us!

Two ways to enter before December 10:

We will draw for a chance to win FOUR BOX SEAT tickets to the December 18th Jets vs Montreal Canadiens game at Canada Life Centre! Your photos will also have the chance to be featured in the next edition of The Cellar Door.

DECISIONS WORTH CELEBRATING

Wine at Your Fingertips

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier, CMS, ISG

In a time when we carry tiny computers and entire communities in our pockets, we have access to wine advice that is prolific and exponentially expanding. With all of this chatter, how can you zero in on the voices that will lead you to new wines to sip, pair, and talk about?

Marketing wine in the last 15 years has moved from strictly traditional media (snail mail, billboards, advertising, reviews in newsletters, etc.) to mostly online through email blasts, social media, websites, and apps. Within this context, the popularity of wine

reviews and ratings has drastically changed how and what people buy—but who is doing the reviewing has also shifted from industry expert-based evaluations to crowd-sourced and AI-based suggestions. Your in-store research can now be amplified with the help of apps that capture a label and tell you what the last 200 people to taste this wine thought of it—for better or worse.

From Micro to Macro Reviews

Published wine reviews were popularized with the launch of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate in 1978. Wine Advocate ’s “Parker Points” still have sway on shelf talkers attached to wines, and we field phone calls at the wine store each time Wine Spectator ’s annual Top 100 Wines are released to see if we carry any of these (instantly very scarce) wines. Wine education and reviews were available in books and magazines, and though they came from industry insiders with vast knowledge about wine, access was undoubtedly less democratic.

When reviews moved online, a diverse range of voices— including professional and amateur wine lovers—joined the conversation. At its best, the Internet and social media give the microphone to wine experts traditionally poorly represented in the wine industry—women, people of colour, the 2SLGBTQ+ community, and young, upand-coming mavericks in winemaking. At its weakest, it gives equal weight to the reviews of new, inexperienced wine enthusiasts and those with experience, education, and wisdom, rendering the overall crowd-sourced “scoring” of wines a lot more diluted.

From print publications, we moved to email blasts. You can now join countless e-newsletters and email lists to receive the latest wine news directly in your inbox. Wine lovers that used to count on their local wine merchant to relay trends and hot buys now receive (sometimes multiple) emails daily proclaiming the “Second coming of Screaming Eagle” or a “100-point Winemaker who has ‘Struck Gold Again.’” While many newsletters are a great way to receive information about your favourite wines, some are simply email lists purchased by wholesalers, who use clickbait to entice you into opening their emails (and their wines)—they are by no means balanced reviews.

A casual Internet search of popular wine apps about an unknown wine in a shop can call up a score of 4.9 out of 5, with a raft of suggestions for “similar” wines. That number has a lot of power. And those specific suggestions for alternates—wow, what great advice! How the review

was assembled and what wines are suggested can be a mishmash of AI algorithms; a community of people with widely different palates, preferences, and tastes throwing in opinions; and some pointed marketing. Compared to advances in wine technology, these advances in wine marketing technology are staggering. But none of these advances mean anything if you, the consumer, don’t end up with the wine that you are searching for.

Using an app with a wildly broad user base can give you a sense of the popularity of wine, as thousands of consumers’ tastes are influencing your decision at the store. These published reviews can be extremely persuasive, but it is their large user base that damages their credibility.

Popular choices don’t mean educated choices—and they certainly don’t mean choices tailored to your needs. Apps are populated with subjective metrics that look precise but are, in fact, anything but.

Online and in Person

As Manitoba’s biggest private wine merchant and wine educator, Jones & Co. wants you to come into the store to talk to us, learn about our winemaking friends, and let us find you the perfect wine for your needs. However, we are also excited about the opportunities that online communities give us to connect with our customers. We are not just sitting back and watching tech pass us by! We are finding ways to best reach our customers—even if we are not face to face.

One of our first forays into the digital sphere was 6 years ago when we launched our Text A Sommelier program. There is no AI involved here: when you text 204-400-0499, one of our eight wine professionals (including five Sommeliers and three WSET Diploma holders) will answer any wine question you might have. Our customers have texted us wine lists from restaurants as far away as Tuscany to ask for pairings, sent pictures of wines from their cellars to inquire

if they are ready to drink, and sent suggestions from faroff vineyards about new wines we should carry. We do this because we love talking about wine, and we love sharing our knowledge with our customers.

In addition, we recently revamped our website and online store CornerVine. On this site, you can create your own profile where you can access your wine shopping history and add to a favourites tab that follows you to every page. We have streamlined the search and added Winery Notes that introduce you to the people behind the labels and provide tasting notes. These notes are written by our JoCo experts, who have visited the wineries and are eager to share their stories. You can shop by style, see all of our new arrivals, and filter all of our wines to zero in on your favourites quickly and easily.

Even as the Internet shrinks the world around us, personal connections feel like they are moving further and further apart. While we do not want to appear to be luddites when it comes to how wines are marketed in this new reality, we persist in making the connection between our customers and the families we work with. As for wine apps, yes, they have a place in buying wine— but if you want my real opinion on them, you’ll have to come see me in person…

The five mostrated wines on CornerVine

Claude Val Blanc LanguedocRoussillon, France ($15.99)

Cantine Colosi Nero d’Avola Sicily, Italy ($21.99)

Joseph Mellot Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Loire Valley, France ($23.99)

Majella The Musician Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, Australia ($25.99)

Mullineux Family Wines Kloof Street Rouge Swartland, South Africa ($32.99)

Shop CornerVine for wine, gift cards, wine subscriptions, gift boxes, events and education, and more.

Dr. Dimitrios Balageorge

Orthopaedic Surgeon and Medical Director of Prota Clinic

Time-Honoured Friends

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

In 15 years of publication, The Cellar Door has featured hundreds of wineries and more than a thousand wines. Among these are a few whose wines have become customer and staff favourites, and where our relationship with each of them has grown. These six wineries straddle four continents and represent over 15 years of building ties.

Bodegas Aragonesas (Campo de Borja, Spain)

Our familiar red-wax-sealed Don Ramón red blend is not the only gem in the Aragonesas crown. Established in 1984 in Spain’s Aragon province, Aragonesas is the largest local employer and central to the area’s identity, partnering with the area’s 600 vine growers contributing to their wines. Director David Gimeno describes it as “a big family, with a good working environment, commitment from everyone, great value wines, and humility.” We admire how much they value and care for old-vine Garnacha, with a history dating back to 1145. “The old vines are our heritage,” David explains. “The way to keep them is with a lot of care and incentives to growers for great quality grapes. We know their yields are low, and we are happy to pay growers well for quality fruit. This arrangement is good for our growers, it is good for us, and it is so good for these old vineyards!”

McManis Family Vineyards (California)

With five generations of history, a commitment to social and environmental sustainability, and a range of expressive, delicious wines, we have been showcasing McManis for almost two decades as one of our favourite California wine producers. Husband and wife team Ron (fourth generation) and Jamie McManis focus on growing a wide range of grape varieties on 4,000 acres of premium vineyards in the rich agricultural region around Lodi, overseeing every part of the production from grape to bottle. With their certification in the Certified California Sustainable program and Lodi Rules—which promotes practices to enhance biodiversity, soil and water health, and community and employee wellbeing—the McManis family has helped us educate our customers about innovations in sustainable winemaking.

Hewitson (Barossa Valley, Australia)

Joseph Mellot (Loire Valley, France)

Over 5 centuries, the Mellot family has built a reputation for classic, terroir-driven wines. Company president Catherine Corbeau-Mellot grew up in a winemaking family: “By the age of four, I was helping my grandfather fill wine bottles!”

Catherine married into the Mellot family, and when her husband, Alexandre, passed suddenly in 2005, she stepped up to manage both the family and the estate. She honours the Mellot family traditions and has improved their sustainable practices. Their 25-year-old son, Adrien, has finished his wine studies and now oversees the vineyards. Their trusted export manager for the past 20 years, Olivier Rivain, has visited us in Winnipeg enough times to develop a love for the Winnipeg Jets!

In 1997, Dean Hewitson knocked on the Koch family’s door, hoping to secure an agreement to use Mourvèdre fruit from their ancient pre-phylloxera 1853-planted vineyard for his wine project. What he secured was a place in wine history. For more than two decades, Hewitson has built a storied reputation on these (and other) celebrated vines and his own inspired winemaking. “I had heard about this old Mourvèdre patch, so I knocked on Ross Koch’s door,” Dean says. “He gave me a go.” Their relationship continued: the 1853 vineyard was showcased in the iconic Old Garden Mourvèdre. That plot has produced cuttings for a newer vineyard dubbed Baby Bush (itself more than 20 years old). Our relationship with Dean Hewitson began in 2002 when Gary Hewitt visited the winery on a buying trip in Australia. The Hewitson combination of old vines, dry farming, and brilliant winemaking continues to draw global attention.

Along with customer favourite Don Ramón Garnacha/ Tempranillo (2020, $16.99), Jones & Company stocks

Centenaria Garnacha (2020, $28.99); Coto de Hayas Fagus Garnacha (2017, $52.99); Crucillon Garnacha/Tempranillo (2022, $14.99); and Crucillon Viura (2022, $14.99)—all from vineyards across Campo de Borja, Spain.

Jones & Company is excited to offer Joseph Mellot’s Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc from Loire Valley (2021, $23.99); Le Tronsec from Pouilly Fumé (2021, $41.99); and two special bottles of Sancerre: Les Vignes du Rocher (2019, $65.99) and La Chatellenie (2020, $47.99).

Jones & Company carries McManis’s Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (2021, $30.99); Petite Sirah from Lodi (2021, $26.99); and Chardonnay from River Junction (2021, $29.99).

Jones & Company carries Hewitson’s Gun Metal Riesling from Eden Valley (2022, $31.99); Baby Bush (2021, $31.99), and Old Garden (2020, $91.99) Mourvèdre from the Barossa Valley. Their Mad Hatter Shiraz from the Barossa Valley is expected in March 2024.

Heron Ridge Winery (Stellenbosch, South Africa)

This story is about the right people at the right place and time. When our intrepid lead buying team, Mike Muirhead and Gary Hewitt, visited South Africa with Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports, they attended a wine tasting at Post House winery in Stellenbosch. They experienced a dark, unfiltered wine that was an exploratory project of Pippa Orps, who was, at the time, assistant winemaker at Post House, but grew up on her own family winery, Heron Ridge. Following a serious discussion, Mike and Gary bought that wine—grown on a mere 2 hectares of vineyards—that did not yet have a name or a label (let alone a reputation). When it arrived at Jones & Co. under her family winery’s name, Heron Ridge, it sported a simple label, and the vintage served as the name: O-Nine. Manitobans fell in love with it, and since then, we have been the only retailer outside of South Africa that carries the label. Heron Ridge continues to craft interesting fine wines with depth, character, and complexity.

Quinta do Infantado (Douro Valley, Portugal)

Gary Hewitt first encountered João and Catarina Roseira of Quinta do Infantado in 1999 at an international wine show. The complexity, texture, and quality of their Infantado Ruby Port instantly struck Gary. This unfiltered Ruby was far more intense, structured, and complex than its basic “Ruby Port” category—and according to Gary, “the best Ruby that I had ever tasted.” The winery’s history goes back to 1816 when vineyards were established for the future King (“Infantado” refers to the prince). Their vineyards are near Pinhão, the centre of what is widely considered a “grand cru” of the Douro Valley in Portugal, where they have been pioneers of organic viticulture. The fifth and sixth generations of the Roseira family manage the estate, with João heading winery production. João is well trained—he made his first Port vintage with his grandfather when he was just 6 years old and has never missed a vintage.

Jamie and Ron McManis (courtesy of McManis Family Vineyards); Catherine Corbeau-Mellot with sons Adrien and Armand at the family winery (courtesy of Joseph Mellot); Dean Hewitson in the Old Garden Vineyard (courtesy of Hewitson).

Jones & Company is proud to carry Heron Ridge’s 2015 vintage of O-Nine Red ($23.99), along with The Flight Shiraz/Petit Verdot (2020, $24.99) and The Flight Chenin Blanc (2020, $23.99), all grown in Stellenbosch, South Africa

Jones & Company carries six beautiful ports from Quinta do Infantado: Ruby Porto (nv, $25.99); Tawny Reserva medium-dry Porto (nv, $55.99); Vintage Porto (2011; $49.99 for 375 ml or $129.99 for 750 ml); and Douro dry red blend ($35.99).

What Grows Together Goes Together

By Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead, and Abby Pelechaty

Photos by Ian McCausland

A perfect wine pairing can elevate a delicious meal to the sublime. If you don’t happen to be dining with three Jones & Company wine experts, however, how do you know what wine to choose? A wonderful little piece of advice that our wine experts love to share is this: what grows together goes together—meaning that wines pair magically well with regional ingredients that grow in the same soils.

Abby, Gary, and Mike reached out to winemaker friends in three regions to ask for a regional dish that is a natural

pairing with their wines. Angeliki Iatridou offered Abby a beautiful orzo and shrimp recipe to pair with their unique Alpha Estate wines that grow in the Amyndeon region of Greece; Christoph Thörle of Weingut Thörle in Rheinhessen, Germany, sent Gary a rich venison stew with German bread dumplings; Julio Bouchon of Longavi and J Bouchon Family Wines in Chile suggested that Mike prepare a simple dish of chorizo and pebre to pair with his wines. We are excited to share this truly global collaboration with our winemaking friends around the world.

GREEK SHRIMP AND ORZO

500 g shrimp, with shells on

4 cups water

2 bay leaves

1 onion, chopped fine

2 cloves garlic, minced

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, split

1 pinch granulated sugar

1 cup dry orzo pasta

2 tbsp tomato paste

½ cup cherry tomatoes, de-stemmed and halved

1.5 oz ouzo

½ lemon, juiced

3/4 cup feta cheese, cubed

2 cups arugula

salt and pepper

lemon wedges

pita bread

Remove the shells and tails from the shrimp. Place the shells in a pot with 4 cups of water and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes. Remove the shrimp shells and bay leaves from the water—discarding the shells but preserving the shrimp stock.

Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan on medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté for 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add sugar and stir into the onion and garlic mixture for 2 minutes.

Add the orzo and sauté it for another 2 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and sauté for a moment before adding the cherry tomatoes. Deglaze the pan with ouzo, and once evaporated, add the shrimp stock. Add salt and pepper, and simmer over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally for 10–12 minutes until the orzo is ready.

While the orzo is cooking, heat a frying pan over high heat until it is very hot. Toss shrimp in 1 tbsp olive oil, salt, and pepper and place in the frying pan, searing them for 1 minute each side. Right before you remove the pan from the element, deglaze with lemon juice. Add the shrimp and lemon juice to the orzo, remove from heat, and stir in cubed feta and arugula. Finish with olive oil and serve with lemon wedges and pita bread.

SHOP LOCAL:

We bought our shrimp at Gimli Fish Market and finished the pasta with Frescolio‘s Milanese Gremolata extra virgin olive oil.

PAIR WITH:

Alpha Estate 2022 Hedgehog Vineyard Rosé Amyndeon, Greece ($37.99)

Alpha Estate 2022 Turtles Vineyard Malagouzia Amyndeon, Greece ($29.99)

Alpha Estate 2022 Hedgehog Vineyard Xinomavro Amyndeon, Greece ($37.99)

Angeliki Iatridou suggested fresh seafood to pair with his Greek whites and rosé.

VENISON RAGOUT WITH CREAM CREMINIS AND GERMAN DUMPLINGS

Venison Ragout

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1.2 kg boneless leg of venison

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp whole allspice

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 tbsp brown sugar

2 tbsp fresh rosemary

3 cups chocolate or oatmeal stout salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut venison into 2-cm pieces. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven and sear the venison in batches over high heat for a few minutes to brown the outside.

Remove meat and reduce heat to medium. Add diced onion and allspice and stir-fry for about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, brown sugar, and rosemary. Deglaze with the beer and then add the meat. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer in the preheated oven for about 2½ hours until the venison is tender. Remove from the oven and season the ragout with salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley.

Note: Venison describes any meat from an antlered animal. We used elk, but if you have friends who hunt deer, meat from the leg is a good cut for this recipe.

German Dumplings

450 g day-old buns

½ cup walnuts, chopped

½ cup dried apricots

½ cup dried figs

2 tbsp butter

1 cups milk

3 eggs

While the ragout is simmering in the oven, chop the buns, walnuts, apricots, and figs. The smaller you chop these ingredients, the finer the dumplings will be. Larger cubes of bread will give you dumplings with almost a stuffing-like texture. Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Warm the combined milk and butter, pour into the bowl and mix well. Let the mixture cool so it doesn’t cook the eggs in the next step.

Once cool, add eggs, season with salt and pepper, and mix gently. Let the dumpling dough sit for about 10 minutes. Spread a clean, damp dishtowel on the work surface (use an older

dishtowel, as the dough might stick to it). Lay the dumpling mixture in a line down the middle of the towel or cheesecloth, leaving about a 5-cm border free. Form the dumpling mixture into a roll and wrap it in the towel. Use butcher string to tie the ends of cloth tightly on each end, forming a long, tightly wrapped tube.

In a large pot, bring plenty of water to a boil. Put the wrapped dumpling dough into the water and cook in lightly boiling water for about 30 minutes (you can bend the dough as needed to fit into the pot). Using tongs, lift the dumpling roll out and let it cool in the cloth before unrolling it.

Once cool, unwrap the dumpling from the cloth and cut into finger-thick slices. Heat butter in a large non-stick pan and fry dumpling slices until golden brown on both sides. Arrange venison ragout with dumplings either on top or beside it. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve.

Winemaker Christoph Thörle offered us his favourite autumn soul food to pair with his wines.

Cream Creminis

2 cups cremini mushrooms

1 tbsp butter

2 tbsp olive oil

½ cup onions, chopped

3 tbsp Parmesan cheese, grated

½ cup dry white wine

3/4 cup whipped cream

½ cup vegetable broth

flat leaf parsley for garnish

Clean mushrooms and cut into thick slices; halve or quarter smaller mushrooms. Heat oil and butter in a large, non-stick frying pan. Sauté mushrooms and onions over high heat for about 3 minutes. Deglaze with wine and let it boil down a bit. Add cream and broth, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce has a creamy consistency. Season with salt and pepper, stir in cheese. Remove pan from heat and serve immediately.

SHOP LOCAL:

Our venison was elk from Local Meats & Frozen Treats. Our stout choice was Devil May Care’s None Shall Pass oatmeal stout.

PAIR WITH:

Thörle 2019 Riesling Trocken Rheinhessen Qualitätswein $27.99

Thörle 2019 Spätburgunder Trocken Rheinhessen Qualitätswein $26.99

Thörle 2019 Saulheim Kalkstein Spätburgunder Trocken Rheinhessen Qualitätswein $36.99

Part

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CHILEAN CHORIZO AND PEBRE WITH GRILLED BREAD

Julio Bouchon suggested pairing his wines with this Chilean BBQ staple.

400g South American chorizo

1 baguette or sourdough

2 tbsp olive oil

2 large Roma tomatoes, quartered

1 bunch fresh cilantro, loosely chopped

6 green onions, chopped

6 cloves garlic

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

2 tbsp chili garlic paste

½ tbsp olive oil

½ tsp salt (to taste)

1 pinch black pepper

For the skewers and bread: Preheat your grill or a grill pan on high heat. Skewer the chorizo, leaving a little space between the links for air circulation. Grill links for 15–20 minutes until they reach an internal temperature of 160°F. After about 10 minutes, brush the sliced baguette with olive oil and place it on the grill, flipping once.

For the pebre: Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until combined. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours to let the flavours combine. Serve over chorizo and grilled bread.

Note: South American chorizo is not the dry, cured kind you find in Spain, so it will have to be cooked thoroughly before eating.

PAIR WITH:

J Bouchon 2022 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Maipo Valley, Chile ($21.99)

Longavi Wines 2019 Glup Carignan Maule Valley, Chile ($23.99)

Longavi 2016 Mabo Red Blend Maule Valley, Chile ($44.99)

SHOP LOCAL:

We found an incredible chorizo selection at the Latino Food Market, which carries different chorizo styles from multiple Central and South American countries. In the pebre, we used Frescolio’s Spanish Picual extra virgin olive oil, which has a robust green and peppery flavour, and their Red Wine Vinegar. Chili garlic paste can be found in Latin or Asian markets. D.A. Niels provided the double chorizo skewer and beautiful orzo bowl on page 48.

Gift Baskets

A gift basket for everyone on your list.

Order holiday prepared gifts today or contact us for a custom-made gift!

Solo Red or White ($25)

Duo Red or Mixed ($50)

Il Palazzo Gift Pack ($75)

Ho Ho Yum ($85)

FOUR WAYS TO ORDER:

Online: JonesWines.com: click on SHOP

Email: saralyn@joneswines.com

Phone: 204.948.9463

Text: 204.400.0499

(Text a Somm, 9am – 9pm)

Festive Favourites ($100)

Home for the Holidays ($140)

Tis the Season ($175)

Holiday Reds ($200)

WE DELIVER! 1 to 100 baskets!

Corporate orders delivered to your clients

$12 for delivery under $250 within city limits (plus taxes) Regular wine orders over $250 FREE (within city limits) Selected wines are also available for delivery through Skip the Dishes

Full descriptions of the baskets will be available at JonesWines.com after November 12.

HOLIDAY HOURS:

December 18 – 22: 10am – 8pm

December 24: 10am – 4pm

REGULAR HOURS:

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 7pm

Sunday: 11am – 6pm

Holidays: 12pm – 6pm

Christmas Day: CLOSED

Boxing Day: 12pm – 5pm

New Years Eve: 10am – 5pm

New Years Day: CLOSED

jones & company

Todd Antonation: Demuerte 2020 Gold Yecla, Spain (6L/$432.99)

Manon Paquin: Monzio Compagnoni 2019 Franciacorta Brut Lombardy, Italy ($44.99)

Paige Jasper: Pikes Vintners 2020 Clare White Clare Valley, Australia ($19.99)

Abby Pelechaty: Radley & Finch 2022 Alley Pack Chenin Blanc Western Cape, South Africa ($24.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Il Palazzo 2020 Dinastico Tuscany, Italy ($16.99)

Gabrielle Konowalchuk: Saint-Maur 2022 Maur & More Rosé Provence, France ($31.99)

what we’re drinking

Saralyn Mehta: Huneeus 2019 Leviathan Red Blend California, USA ($85.99)

Kristin Froese: Domaine Astruc 2021 d’A Sauvignon Blanc Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($21.99)

Dylan Watkins: Copaboca 2021 Gorgorito Tempranillo Ribera del Duero, Spain ($22.99)

Ricki-Lee Podolecki: Fram Wines 2022 Grenache Gris Swartland, South Africa ($36.99)

Alyona Lyubytska: Journey’s End 2022 Honey Bee Chenin/Viognier Western Cape, South Africa ($19.99)

Anton Sikorsky: Domaine Montrose 2020 Salamandre Rouge Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($41.99)

WINE&DRINKS

COLLEGE MANITOBA

WSET programs are the gold standard in wine education and are offered in more than 70 countries. Our teaching staff has an unmatched depth of experience, subject expertise and passion, and a willingness to share it all with you. WDCM has trained Manitoba’s Sommelier graduates, and, with our WSET programs, many of our alums have followed careers as industry leaders.

WSET Level 1 Award in Wines: A great place to start is WSET Level 1, a one-day course in the world of wine, food and wine harmony, tasting classic wine styles, and describing wines accurately. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin.

Date: Saturday, October 14, 2023, from 9:30 to 5:00

Cost: $425, plus GST

WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS

WINE COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

WSET Level 2 Award in Wines: The Level 2 Award in Wines is a beginner- to intermediate-level qualification exploring wines suitable for industry professionals and wine enthusiasts. You will gain knowledge of the world’s principal and regionally significant grape varieties, wine regions, and styles of wine. Through tasting and theory, you will explore the factors that impact style and quality and learn how to confidently describe these wines. The course is eight evening sessions, with an exam in the 9th session. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSET-certified logo.

Dates: Classes start January 10, 2024, at 6:30 p.m.

Cost: $1,075, plus GST

WE ARE TAKING WINE EDUCATION ONLINE!

Do you live out of town? Do you prefer to do your learning online? We are now offering selected WSET classes in an online format!

Online classes are designed as an independent study program, with occasional scheduled inperson meetings at Jones & Company for tastings and exams. Classes are led by a tutor from Wine & Spirit Education Trust who will be available to guide you through the material and answer any questions you have.

WSET Level 3 Award in Wines (ONLINE only): WSET 3 is an advanced-level qualification for wine enthusiasts or professionals working in the wine or hospitality industry. This course provides deep study and detailed understanding of the world of wine, including the key factors in production of location, grape growing, winemaking, maturation, and bottling, as well as how and why these factors affect the style, quality, and price of wines. The course also builds your ability to assess wines accurately and to use your understanding confidently to explain wine style and quality.

This online program, led by a dedicated WSET tutor, runs over 9 weeks (not including the exam). Although the program is structured, you can access the modules on your own schedule— there are no set class times. Anticipate a minimum requirement of 84 hours of study time, including 30 hours of online delivery. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSETcertified logo.

Dates: Classes start January 8, 2024; dates for the tasting workshop and exam TBA.

Cost: $1,400, plus GST

culinary partners

Todd Antonation of Jones & Company works closely with our Culinary Partners to create wine lists that align with and complement their menus in both flavour profiles and price points. These are some of the exciting pairings on their fall and winter menus.

1. La Roca: Mikala suggests that Bleeding Heart Shiraz (Australia) can handle the Barbacoa Enchiladas with house-made tomato sauce, cheese, Mexican fried rice, and beans.

2. James Avenue Pumphouse: Sarah pairs the Vegan Crispy Tofu Parm, served with vegan cheese, pesto, garlic aioli, and tomato sauce, with Precision Wine Co’s Method Cabernet Sauvignon (California).

3. Junction 59 Roadhouse: Jeanelle pairs the Country Fried Chicken with Station 22 Oakbank Cellars Chardonnay (Australia).

4. Prairie’s Edge: Pan-Seared Salmon with lemon dill hollandaise and warm quinoa salad is served with Ka Tahi Pinot Gris (New Zealand).

5. Peasant Cookery: Stephanie Ponce recommends pairing the Pork Chop and roasted root vegetables with Cantina Girlan Pinot Grigio (Italy).

6. Restö at Thermëa Spa: Ventisquero Grey Glacier Single Block Carménère (Chile) shows its versatility beside the Croque Nordik sandwich and the vegan Farmer’s Sweet Potato Feast.

7. 529 Wellington: Moone-Tsai’s special bottle of Corinne Cuvée Pinot Noir (California) is a divine experience with 529’s Canadian Prime Beef Tenderloin and Lobster Tails.

8. Bluestone Cottage: Olivia recommends the Mezze Plate (hummus, tahini sauce, pickled and fresh veggies, crispy chickpeas and toasted focaccia) with a crisp bottle of Bodegas Sardasol Chardonnay (Spain).

9. Bellissimo Restaurant & Lounge: Greg and Jennifer Gagliardi recommend pairing their spicy house-made Rigatoni Diavalo with Precision Wine Co’s Windstorm Zinfandel (California).

10. Alena Rustic Kitchen: Pair the 16 oz bone-in New York Strip Loin with rosemary with the boldly smooth Grano a Grano Cabernet Sauvignon (California).

11. Bistro 330 (La Salle): Claude Val Rosé and Les Domaines Auriol Elegance Claude Vialade Pinot Noir (both from France) complement this feast of Bistro Chicken with warm basil tomatoes, Warm Crab & Jalapeño Dip, and Mussels with white wine cream sauce.

12. Cibo Waterfront Café: LangeTwins Family Grown Chardonnay (California) is the perfect coastal match with Grilled Octopus with chorizo, baby potatoes, romesco sauce, aioli, pickled onion, and arugula.

Points or Passion

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Have you ever tasted a wine that stopped you in your tracks, or transported your evening into something beautiful? If you have, did you know its “score”? Was it 100?

In almost every wine lover’s life is a wine that changes the game. This wine will be something special, from a producer who understands the soul of their place, vineyard, and art. The wine is opened at an especially superb time in its evolution, just when all the little aromas the grapes gathered in the summer sunshine mingle together to create something like magic, and the liquid shape is nuanced and balanced on the head of a pin. Like a piece of music that catches us at the right moment, or a painting that arrests our attention in a crowded gallery, the encounter is a surprise. It can capture our whole sensibility, beguiling us into a dimension we did not know existed. The occasions I have been surprised and touched have been enough to lure me into wine study and the industry.

At a recent tasting, I poured Domaine Rollin’s 2020 Les Cloux Pernand-Vergelesses white, a wine both intense and delicate, with a structured palate and a finish that seemed to expand beyond its own proportions. During the tasting, more than one guest was also moved, surprised, and delighted by this wine. It was by no means the most expensive wine of the evening. Its score? Not even ranked. A previous vintage had been favourably reviewed in a French publication, but no one ever mentioned surprise or magic. Yet there it was, as real as the glass that held it.

Beautiful wine moments are just that, though: moments in our own personal history. Yet occasion and moment are explicitly beyond the purview of a professional review. Critics work hard to review wines fairly and assess matters of quality, complexity, flavour characteristics, and balance. They often work in rather uninteresting lab-like conditions,

not swallowing and not talking to their friends about the wine. Then they write a short note (something we often skim) and assign a number (getting our attention). Scores over 90 attract a lot of attention, and a score of 100 is itself the stuff of legend.

For a wine to be magical, though, it must also be within the tasting wheelhouse of the taster. Effectively, it needs to fit and be great for the occasion and the people. Like high fashion, high scores are about the art of textures, lines, colours, and what is currently hot (according to reviewers). A wine—akin to fashion design—can be well made, style-driven, bold, and interesting, but that does not mean it will be perfect for everyone and be beautiful on every occasion. By checking wine scores, we are adding information to our research, but it is important to remember that fit, occasion, and our own palates are deeply personal and not part of the review parameters.

To return to those 100 points: surely there is something magical about that wine. Or is the magic in the number? The brain is a powerful tool. For many of us, tasting a highscoring or 100-point wine from a well-known reviewer can either raise our expectations beyond what our own moment of tasting gives or can sufficiently impress us to become a factor in creating that moment. However, in neither case does surprise come into play. The rare, magical wine moments have a lot less to do with numbers and more to do with good planning, good company, and good personal choices.

So here’s to you, always open to surprise.