The Cellar Door: Issue 15. Okanagan Valley. June 2013 - September 2013.

the

Cellar Door Wi ne a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i lle & J o n e s W i n e Co.

Okanagan ValleY Issue 15 June 2013-September 2013

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unforgettable. spicy mango prawns

Happy hour at Wasabi Sabi Monday to Friday, 3pm – 6pm.

Also enjoy Oyster Nights at Wasabi on Broadway every Tuesday night and Happy Hour at Wasabi Sushi Bistro every night starting at 10 pm.

For complete menus visit wasabigroup.com.

Wasabi on Broadway 588 Broadway Avenue 204.774.4328

Wasabi Sushi Bistro 105-121 Osborne Street 204.474.2332

Wasabi Sabi 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878

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Features 27 Your Summer Crush: The Okanagan Crush Pad Todd Antonation and Andrea Eby visit the Okanagan’s stateof-the-art crush pad facility, where new winemakers turn their grapes into quality B.C. wine.

34 The Lake Three friends explore simple luxury at the lake.

43 Heritage and Innovation: An Interview with Harry McWatters 34 43

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Sylvia Jansen discusses the merits of Meritage and future of wine in the Okanagan Valley with the patriarch of the B.C. wine industry, Harry McWatters.

52 Harvest Okanagan Mike Muirhead takes us on a fall tour of the Okanagan’s harvest festivals and winery highlights.

Thank you to our loyal readership for voting The Cellar Door Manitoba's Consumer Magazine of the Year in 2011 and 2012!

Cover: Blue Mountain Vineyard. Photo by Todd Antonation.

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contents 24

Columns

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10 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 18 Banville & Jones and Company 21 Behind the Label Sandhill Small Lots

24 Chef Profile Q&A with Chef Ă–sten Rice of Wasabi Sabi

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31 Gary’s Corner B.C. wines play hard to get

43 Especially for you Cottage Cases

47 Gluggy Summer sippers

48 Trending Wine & superfoods

50 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 56 Banville & Jones Wine and Food Events 58 Culinary Partners 60 Shopping List 61 Sidebar Secret Service

62 Top Picks

www.banvilleandjones.com 7

the

Cellar Door Publisher and Marketing Director Megan Kozminski megan@poisepublications.com

Domestically made ...

Internationally accepted

Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Graphic Design Shane Garrett, www.STG54.com

Advertising Sales Manager Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Scott Berry, Pauline Boldt, Mya Brown, Marisa Curatolo, Andrew Eastman, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Brett Lamoureux, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, Rick Watkins Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com For advertising information, please contact vanessa@poisepublications.com.

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Photo by Pauline Boldt

My FavEs 1. Visiting See Ya Later Ranch: Cool, fresh wines to enjoy while experiencing the fantastic views of the Okanagan Valley and listening to the crazy stories of a quirky original owner and his love of dogs!

2. Restaurants tucked into wineries: Quail’s Gate, Mission Hill, Burrowing Owl—these and many more help us dive into the food and wine culture.

3. Staying and playing at Summerland Resort in Summerland on Lake Okanagan—magical!

4. Casual picnic at Blasted Church, overlooking the valley and the lake. , 5. Discovering Howard Soon s Small Lots program—rich, expressive wines produced in tiny amounts!

a message from tina jones Early in my career I had the privilege of meeting Harry McWatters (whose interview we feature on page 43). Harry is the visionary who helped bring us the VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) system in Canada. His influence on me was profound: he believed that B.C. had what it takes to make great wine, and he believed that Canada could be in the same game as the big players. He made me a believer in Canadian wine, and in wine from the Okanagan.

Today that belief is being lived out as a reality! For me, the Okanagan is one of those truly wonderful places that Canadians can really celebrate! There’s an easy warmth about the region and the people, and a yet-to-be-discovered quality. Penticton, Lake Okanagan, and the whole region is a playground for families—a summer destination that everyone can enjoy.

And there’s a newness in the air around the wine industry. It is the unmistakable feeling of quiet excitement that comes from people who know they have something special to offer. Brilliant white wines, fantastic sparkling, and reds that get better with each vintage—it is a world-class wine destination, unfolding for us to enjoy.

Join us in an issue that uncovers some of the treasures of our Okanagan. We are especially thrilled to offer you an interview with the amazing Harry McWatters. His conversation with Sylvia Jansen gives us some great insight! Andrea Eby and Todd Antonation show us the ins and outs of the distinctive Okanagan Crush Pad project; Gary Hewitt explores why so much Okanagan wine is so frustratingly hard to get in Manitoba; and everywhere in the magazine we celebrate the great Okanagan wines that Banville & Jones is proud to offer!

Enjoy,

Tina Jones 10 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports strive to find the most interesting and affordable South African wines to bring back to Manitoba.

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Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot (2011) Simonsig Chenin Blanc (2012) An eminently drinkable and balanced wine with notes of pear, guava, and sweet melon. ($11.99)

Ripe red berries and black cherries lead into notes of chocolate and coffee flavours. A hint of spice sneaks in among the silky tannins of this blend. ($11.99)

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Delightful stone fruit flavours of peach, apricot and nectarine are accented with a creamy stroke of honey. Made with certified organic grapes from Bon Cap winery. ($14.99)

Bon Courage Unwooded Chardonnay (2012) A tropical experience, with green melon, pineapple, guava and a clean, citrus finish. ($14.99)

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ask a sommelier I want to buy a special bottle of wine for my husband to congratulate him on his new job. Can you suggest a wine that will age for 25 years (or however long it takes until retirement)?

–Rayna Vitt Dear Rayna, When considering wines that have aging longevity, always start with a good vintage. Other considerations are the producer, winemaking process, and grape varieties. A wine with that much aging potential and prestige will also come with a prestige price point, more than likely over $100.00.

A frontrunner, in my opinion, is Warre’s 1994 Vintage Port ($159.99).

Even though this port is already 19 years into its aging, it could be put down for another 30.

Once you choose your wine, proper storage is crucial. If a wine (no matter its quality) is not stored properly, its aging potential will be compromised, and it could even harm the wine. Store the wine in a cool dark spot where temperature and humidity do not fluctuate, and try to keep it away from vibrating appliances like a fridge or freezer.

—Saralyn Mehta Is aerating necessary for all wines?

—Kate Staniland Dear Kate, Accelerated wine aeration can involve funnels, aerators, decanters, vigorous swirling, shaking the bottle or glass, or even the use of a blender!

Aeration can dispel off-odours due to slight excesses of sulfur dioxide (an antioxidant-preservative added to wines), questionable winemaking, or the mustiness of some older wines.

Aeration may also liberate the low levels of carbon dioxide entrained in many modern white wines to keep them fresh.

Aeration can make a wine more expressive by unmasking aromas

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and flavours and by softening harsh tannins. However, delicate wines, including older wines, can be stripped of aromas and flavours. So, the potential benefit of aeration depends on the wine. I often test a small sample of a wine by covering my glass with my hand and giving the wine a good shake: I check to see if I like it better, and if I do, I aerate the rest of the bottle. Certainly, a wine aerator is a handy and possibly less messy way to carry out this procedure.

—Gary Hewitt I know that summertime means that most people switch to white, but I really prefer reds. Can you recommend some types of softer “summer” reds to try?

—Stephen Link Dear Stephen, In warm summer months, many people like refreshing wines, whether white or red. White wine is often the choice because of its naturally higher acidity, and because it is usually served cold. Red wine has drying tannins and generally higher alcohol levels, which reduce that refreshing sensation (the alcohol adds heat as well). Additionally, we normally serve red wine at a higher temperature.

If you are looking for softer reds, there are a few qualities to consider.

Reds that have slightly lower alcohol (13.5% or less, for example) are good bets; you can also ask for lowertannin reds that have a smoother feel on the palate. Finally, when the temperature rises on the patio, put your red on ice (yes, on ice) or in the refrigerator for long enough to bring the temperature down to about 16– 18°C. It will make a huge difference!

A few that are summer winners for me include Col dei Venti 2011 Barbera ($16.99), Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda ($16.99), and Clos de la Roilette 2011 Beaujolais ($26.99).

Enjoy!

—Sylvia Jansen

Banville & Jones Wine Co. recommends the Nuance Wine Finer to aerate your wine and filter out sediment for the perfect glass of wine.

If you have a question for our Sommeliers, visit us at www.banvilleandjones.com/cellardoor.php

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banville & jones and company

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Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Doug Stephen, Tina Jones, Winemaker Olivier Rivain, Andrea Eby, and Sylvia Jansen; 2. Celebrating the grand opening of The Paterson GlobalFoods Institute at Red River College (l-r): Keith M端ller, Steven Fletcher, Erin Selby, Stephanie Forsyth, Greg Selinger, Sam Katz, Andrew Paterson, Levinia Brown, Dudley Thompson, Mae-Louise Campbell; 3. Jill Kwiatkoski, Shirley Martens, Randy Sawatsky, Curtis Love, James Engstrom and Gary Hewitt at the CAPS inaugural event; 4. Harry Loewen, Dale Evanyshyn, Inna Loewen, and Heather Sarna at the Joseph Mellot Winemaker's dinner at Jane's; 5. George Addis, Christopher Sprague, Mel Eldridge and Ben McPheeSigurdson attend the CAPS inaugural event; 6. Mayumi & Greg Clifford at the Joseph Mellot Winemaker's dinner at Jane's

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7. Christie Mavety, owner of Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars, Okanagan Valley; 8. Jill Kwiatkoski (centre) with Laura Casella and Virginia Stagnari of Antigua Bodega Stagnari in Uruguay; 9. The Keeping Abreast Committee: (back, left to right) Judy Friesen, Kelly Boles, Darla Raddysh, Kenny Boyce, Karen Sagness, Tracey Moskal, Tracy Leckie, Cheryl Mazur (front, left to right) Tina Jones, Jackie Stephen, Pat Wedlake, Becky Parkes; 10. Todd Antonation and See Ya Later Ranch Winemaker Mason Spink, Okanagan Valley; 11. Sylvia Jansen with Laurence Ployez of Ployez Jacquemart in Champagne; 12. Julian Scholefield, Operations Manager at Okanagan Crush Pad.

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behind the label: sandhill small lots

By Rick Watkins, CSW

Sandhill 2007 one Phantom Creek Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. $41.99

Sandhill 2009 two Sandhill Estate Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. $42.99

Sandhill Estates is one of the most decorated wineries in Canada. The first winemaker to ever win all three of the top awards at the Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards (Best Red Wine, Best White Wine, and Winery of the Year in 2009), Howard Soon has a philosophy of strict noninterference. He believes that if you grow great grapes, the wines will make themselves.

Howard Soon has been head winemaker at the Okanagan’s Sandhill Estates since it produced its first wine in 1997.

In 2002, the winery purchased the iconic Sandhill Estate Vineyard, and was the first Canadian winery to produce only single-vineyard wines.

“Single vineyard” does not mean that only a single grape variety is grown and bottled. The wines made from each vineyard can be blends of different grapes that are all grown in that single vineyard. In fact, Sandhill Estate is stretching the boundaries when it comes to the grape varieties it grows in single vineyards. The Small Lots program has made wine from Sangiovese, Barbera, and Syrah, which are unique grapes in Canada. Growing different varieties of grapes in the same vineyard means that the grapes will have a similar flavour profile, due to shared terroir, while retaining the unique characteristics of their varieties.

Howard Soon feels that the wines grown in the Small Lots program are the truest expression of single-vineyard wines.

Wines in this program may come from special blocks of vineyards that are treated differently from the rest, or they may be aged in special barrels that stand out as exceptional from the rest. These wines show the distinctive characteristics and flavour profiles of the vineyards that they came from.

Sandhill 2008 three Sandhill Estate Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. $42.99

Sandhill has six different vineyards feeding the Small Lots program: Sandhill Estate, King Family, Phantom Creek, Osprey Ridge, Hidden Terrace, and Vanessa vineyards.

Wine Access magazine named Phantom Creek vineyard one of the 10 best single vineyards in the world!

The only downside to the Small Lots program wines is that there is never enough produced! Some years produce as few as 95 cases. (Compare this to First Growth Bordeaux that sells for $500.00–$2000.00 per bottle, and produces 5,000–20,000 cases of wine.)

With so little Small Lots wine produced every year, can you believe how lucky we are to stock three of their finest right here in Winnipeg? Sandhill 2007 one, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Syrah from the Phantom Creek Vineyard, is a full-bodied, powerful wine with velvety tannins and a long finish. Only 498 cases were produced. Sandhill 2009 two is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc from the Sandhill Estate Vineyard. A true Bordeaux blend, this wine exhibits a bouquet of black cherry, with cedar box, blackberries, black pepper, and black tea on the palate, and only 525 cases were produced. Sandhill 2008 three is a blend of Sangiovese, Barbera, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Sandhill Estate Vineyard. Only 175 cases were produced of this full-bodied wine with great acidity.

Howard Soon’s Sandhill Small Lots program is one to keep your eye on, as they consistently produce super premium, single-vineyard wines in their Okaganan estates. 

www.banvilleandjones.com 21

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chef profile

Östen Rice, Wasabi Sabi

Photos by Ian McCausland

Östen Rice is celebrating his fifth anniversary as head chef of Wasabi Sabi, where he has consistently kept the Japanese restaurant at the forefront of trend-setting flavours and techniques. In October 2012, he won Gold at the Gold Medal Plates Culinary competition in Winnipeg and was invited to Kelowna, B.C. in Winter 2013 to compete in the national competition.

The secret ingredient in your fridge: Korean black garlic.

They take a bulb of garlic and ferment it using heat and pressure. The resulting cloves are jet black, soft and develop a complex rich and fruity aroma reminiscent of a really good aged balsamic vinegar. I have used it in vinaigrettes, sauces or even spread on crostini for antipasto. Delicious.

The next new food trend: I think we are going to see more and more attention paid to the context in which food is eaten. So much of our dining experience has to do with memory and past experience. Beyond the food on the plate, the colour of the dish it is served on, the music playing in the background, the lighting and smell of the room, all play key roles in how we experience and even taste the food.

Favourite travel food destination: So far, it would have to be Chicago. But my dream is to spend a month eating and drinking my way across Spain.

Guilty pleasure: Corn dogs with yellow mustard and ketchup chips.

Favourite cookbook: It is a tie. The French Laundry by Thomas Keller really opened my eyes to the importance of refined technique and the pursuit of perfection. On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee taught me that there

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is a science behind every cooking technique, removing the stigma that cooking was some kind of mystery you eventually solve only through years of practice.

Most famous person cooked for: When I worked at Fox , Harb r Resort in Nova Scotia, I cooked for Bill Clinton.

Favourite homecooked meal: My mom’s meatloaf and mashed potatoes with mushroom gravy.

First meal that made you really pay attention to food: I remember sitting in the grass by the ocean in Malmö, Sweden, when I was maybe 10, eating this green-boned fish out of newspaper my Uncle Sven had just finished smoking. There was something surreal about the experience, I realized that food could be magic.

Favourite current dish on the menu at Wasabi Sabi: I am currently running a dish of seared Digby scallops with grapefruit, black garlic sauce, grilled asparagus and Anglesey flake salt.

Favourite wine: My favourite wine is always changing, but right now it is Tommasi 2010 Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore. 

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The Okanagan Crush Pad facility, overlooking scenic Lake Okanagan (Photo by Lionel Trudel, courtesy of Okanagan Crush Pad)

your summer crush: The Okanagan Crush Pad

By Todd Antonation and Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW)

High on your list of “must-see� producers in the Okanagan Valley is the creatively conceived Okanagan Crush Pad, or OCP, as it is referred to by industry insiders. Todd Antonation and Andrea Eby returned from respective Okanagan adventures raving about this avant-garde facility, its stellar staff, and their delicious juice. Here, they make their case for why you should add OCP to your list of things to do in the Okanagan!

www.banvilleandjones.com 27

The Location

The Concept

OCP is located on the west side of Lake Okanagan in the quaint town of Summerland. With its great restaurants, wineries, wide variety of outdoor activities, and seemingly endless beaches, Summerland will quickly become one of your favourite corners in Canada. The near desert conditions, scorching summers, freezing winters, a latitude of 49–50° north, and vineyards located on some of the oldest rock formations in the world all contribute to a terroir that is unlike any other.

Setting up a new a winery is a daunting and debt-inducing undertaking. At its simplest, a crush pad allows farmers to produce their own wines without having to incur the significant costs associated with building and owning a winery. Established in 2011, the goal of OCP is to “provide assistance every step of the way from the field to marketplace.” The first of its kind in the Okanagan, OCP provides a range of services, from vineyard advice to branding and marketing support. The experts at OCP can do it all!

(Above) Vineyards cascade down the steep hills of the Okanagan Valley (Photo by Todd Antonation)

(Above) Steve Lornie and Christine Coletta, owners of the OCP, oversee the latest harvest with wine advisor David Scholefield (Photo by Lionel Trudel, courtesy of Okanagan Crush Pad)

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State-of-the-art equipment such as concrete fermentation eggs make OCP a leading facility (Photo by Lionel Trudel, courtesy of Okanagan Crush Pad)

The People Envisioned and owned by Christine Coletta (recognized as one of Canada’s premier marketers) and Steve Lornie (a 38-year veteran of the construction and development industry), this husband and wife team have surrounded themselves with industry stars.

Chief winemaker Michael Bartier is an Okanagan boy through and through.

Born and raised in the area, Bartier began working in the wine industry shortly after graduating from university. Today, he heads up winemaking at OCP, where he works closely with famous Italian consultant Alberto Antonini.

OCP also benefits from the contributions of Pedro Parra, an internationally recognized terroir consultant based in Concepcíon, Chile.

Other OCP stars include David Scholefield, one of Canada’s foremost wine experts and the inspiration behind the OCP concept, and Julian Scholefield, industry insider and operations manager at OCP. The Facility Full of innovations, the OCP facility is a fantastic combination of tradition and invention. From the graffiti-adorned concrete walls to the local artwork throughout the space, there is no shortage of wonder at OCP. Outside, the beautiful cover crops grace the rows of vines where chickens roam, eating pests, aerating, and fertilizing the ground and then returning to their customdesigned wine barrel coup! Perhaps some of the most interesting objects at OCP are the 2000 litre fermentation eggs. OCP was the first Canadian winery to use these revolutionary vessels. Weighing as much as a killer whale, each of the temperature-controlled, semi-porous, concrete eggs were carefully transported from California.

In anticipation of your next trip to the Okanagan, stop by Banville & Jones and pick up a couple of Bartier Scholefield wines to tide you over!

B.S. 2010 ROSÉ TABLE WINE $28.99 Made from 100% Gamay Noir, this is a dry-style rosé with beautiful, bright strawberry flavours and aromas.

B.S. 2010 WHITE TABLE WINE $28.99 A refreshing unoaked blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Chardonnay, the bright flavours of pear, apples, and lemon give way to a clean finish.

The Wines Ahhhh, finally we get to the good stuff: the wines! After processing over 80 individual lots of wine last year, OCP has hired associate winemaker Matt Dumayne to assist Bartier in crafting their spectacular wines. OCP currently produces two house brand wines under the Bartier Scholefield and Haywire labels. Client wines include such delicious offerings as the wines of Bartier Bros., Bella, Di Bello, Harper’s Trail and Rafter F. These wines tend to focus on cool climate varieties that thrive in the Okanagan environment.

The OCP facility represents the cutting edge in winemaking, and also wine tourism. Samples of their portfolio can be enjoyed on their patio as you soak up the Okanagan sunshine and watch the sailboats float by, truly a little slice of heaven that is already beckoning us back. 

www.banvilleandjones.com 29

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gary’s corner

By Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS

Photo by Paul Martens

VQA store under the auspices of the B.C. Wine Institute and dedicated to only B.C. wines, the percentage drops to 62%. If sold to the BCLDB, the margin is even lower.

B.C. Wines Play Hard to Get British Columbia is the toughest market in the world for us to get competitive pricing. We know the wines are great, that they are developing a unique regional character, and the standard of winemaking constantly improves.

We often hear from customers just home from a trip the Okanagan, “Please bring in this wine, it’s fabulous and costs only $18.”

We hear you, and we check out lots of requests, but with the exception of the bigger wineries that need to sell wines east of the Rockies, we have trouble negotiating wholesale prices that work. Does your fabulous B.C. wine seem so great at $36? Not likely.

Why does this happen? It all has to do with the pricing structure enforced by the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch (BCLDB). Estate wineries have legislated options regarding the routes by which they can sell their wines: the retail price will be the same, but the margins are dramatically different. Consider a wine sold at a BCLDB-mandated price of $25, including sales tax.

If sold at the winery cellar door, the winery will retain 88% of the sale. If sold to a private liquor retail store, the percentage retained drops to 74%. If sold to a special

If the wine is sold to Manitoba and the shelf price is to be $25 (not including sales taxes), the wholesale price represents only 43% of the sale! The winery makes about half of what they can make selling the wine at their cellar door.

If the wine is sold to Manitoba at the wholesale price given to the B.C. VQA stores, the Manitoba shelf price would be about $36; if sold to us at the cellar door wholesale price, our shelf price would be about $50!

If you were a small estate wine producer in the Okanagan, what would you do? I can tell you that I would sell as much as possible at the cellar door. I would not be looking to sell my limited production to Manitoba.

Without a doubt, the pricing scheme is strongly biased in favour of the B.C. market, a trait that has not gone altogether unnoticed by our foreign trading partners involved in free trade agreements. But before we advocate for enforcement of a level playing field, consider that Canada is an expensive country in which to produce wine. For example, in the Okanagan, land prices are high, labour and supplies are expensive, and the wine industry is relatively small with few economies of scale. In short, wine production is expensive. Strict compliance with trade agreements may drive up the cost of B.C. wines

across the board: how will we feel if that “fabulous $18 bottle” of B.C. wine is the same price in B.C. and Manitoba, but now costs $36 in both provinces? I suspect that neither the small estate producers nor consumers will rejoice.

In the meantime, Manitobans can enjoy wines from the big players of the B.C. wine industry, many of whom belong to large international beverage corporations that can afford to offer competitive wholesale pricing, or wines from a handful of medium-sized estate wineries who pay the penalty to sell outside of B.C. But I suspect that greater numbers of Manitobans will take advantage of the recently relaxed interprovincial laws to bring home wines from their visits “out West” or to order winerydirect and have wines delivered to their front door. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN, EXCEPTIONAL Just as I thought I’d pinned down the situation in B.C., we finalized arrangements with Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars that prove the exception to the rule. Blue Mountain, a fiercely independent estate winery since their inception in 1971, forged a reputation for outstanding Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and sparkling wine outside of the auspices of VQA. Limited allocations and high demand governed distribution with only a trickle escaping B.C. into Alberta.

But now Blue Mountain is ready to play in Manitoba with market-competitive prices.

We are thrilled to present Blue Mountain and encourage you to support their commitment to our market.

Blue Mountain Vineyard 2011 Pinot Gris $24.99 Blue Mountain Vineyard 2011 Chardonnay $24.99 Blue Mountain Vineyard 2011 Pinot Noir $29.99 Blue Mountain Vineyard nv Sparkling Brut $24.99

www.banvilleandjones.com 31

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wine, food & photography

the lake

Tina Jones and friends Marisa Curatolo and Pauline Boldt (le tre, “the three,” in Italian) have come together with a plan to nurture simple luxury. Le tre are creating a resource for simple, elegant recipes, wine insight, visual inspiration, and travel. It is an invitation to the luxury of taking a few moments to calm the noise of the world, to assemble a few good ingredients—friends, food, and wine—and to create an elegant moment out of simplicity.

Le tre will be contributing this regular feature in The Cellar Door. Whether travelling the world, being at the lake, or relaxing at home, they invite us to discover the extravagant in the ordinary.

Photography by Pauline Boldt; Food by Marisa Curatolo

www.banvilleandjones.com 35

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Many of us lead lives where time is at

To celebrate summer, the three friends

a premium—time to enjoy friends, food,

of le tre took a couple of days at the

wine, and the rich beauty of everything

cottage for a bit of that kind of luxury.

around us! For me, “luxury” is finding a

Our friend and chef, Marisa, brought

few minutes, and creating a few moments,

together a few ingredients in a cast iron

where we stop the clock, enjoy our friends,

pan, Pauline brought her camera,

enjoy some simple but elegant food,

we climbed onto the boat, and I opened

and a great glass of wine.

a bottle of Champagne for breakfast!

It was a moment of pure luxury.

– T ina J ones

www.banvilleandjones.com 37

BREAK FA ST BU BBL E S The high protein and textures of egg, whether hard-cooked or with a soft, runny yolk, are usually hard on wines. But with its natural high acidity and beautiful bubbles, Champagne makes a fantastic partner!

Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Brut Champagne $55.99 Billecart-Salmon nv Brut RĂŠserve Champagne $64.99 Guicciardini Strozzi nv Cusona Brut Sparkling Vernaccia $19.99

Pancetta & To m ato Sk ill et Eggs Serves 2 to 4

i n gr edi e n ts

5 thin slices pancetta 1/2 cup grape tomatoes 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves 5 eggs 1 tbsp olive oil sea salt and freshly ground pepper

38 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

m e t ho d

Cook pancetta in a large non-stick skillet over medium heat until crispy, about 5 minutes.

Transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, leave fat in skillet.

Add tomatoes and thyme to skillet and cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Drizzle oil over tomatoes and return pancetta to skillet.

Crack eggs over tomato mixture and cook eggs sunny side up for about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve eggs directly from skillet.

www.banvilleandjones.com 39

BAC ON AN D WI NE with On those days when all you have to do is enjoy life, what better way to start the day the day than with bacon and Shiraz? We discovered this amazing experience on our first trip to Australia, where both bacon and wine are taken seriously. It is a hedonistic delight, and possibly one of the most fun, simple luxuries of life! Enjoy le tre,s favourite bacon and wine pairings this Sunday!

Wine: Torbreck 2011 Woodcutter’s Shiraz Barossa Australia $33.99 Bacon: Salt cured and smoked, streaked strips of lean meat and juicy fat, usually salty and sizzling from the grill. The British call them “rashers.”

Wine: Laurent Miquel 2010 Nord Sud Syrah Languedoc, France $17.99 Back bacon: From the cured pork loin, lean, solid, virtuous and delicious.

Wine: Walter Clapis 2009 The Hedonist Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia $25.99 CANADIAN BACK BACON: Back bacon with a Canadian twist: lightly brined and coated with cornmeal, which forms a delicious crust to a juicy, ham-like core.

Wine: Tolaini 2008 al passo Tuscany, Italy $29.99 Pancetta: Italian bacon, salt cured and sometimes spiced, but not smoked. A quality option to rashers!

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We’re going to need more wine!

Banville & Jones Cottage Cases Available from May Long weekend through to the end of August.

Red Case: $129.99 for 12 dry reds (four different wines; three bottles of each) White Case: $129.99 for 12 dry whites (four different wines; three bottles of each) Mixed Case: $169.99 for a baker’s dozen (includes three different whites, two bottles of each; three different reds, two bottles of each; and one bottle of wine selected specially by our Sommeliers).

Save up to $50 per case!

Order online, by email, or by phone! banvilleandjones.cornervine.com • 948-WINE (9463) • wine@banvilleandjones.com

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Heritage and innovation:

An interview with Harry McWatters Photo by Voth Photography

Interview by Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

To call Harry McWatters a leader in the British Columbia wine industry is an understatement. He has been involved in the B.C. wine scene for more than 40 years. Harry was the driving force in the now hugely successful Okanagan Wine Festival; he helped to pioneer the Canadian VQA certification system; he was founder of B.C.’s first estate winery, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery in 1980; and he founded See Ya Later Ranch Estate Winery in 1995. Since his “retirement” from Sumac Ridge Estate and Vincor Canada, he has established Vintage Consulting Group Inc. and the Okanagan Wine Academy. He is currently involved in the McWatters Collection wine project, producing a small production Meritage from the Sundial Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench in the southern Okanagan. Sylvia Jansen spoke with him as he was returning home from a wine tour in New Zealand.

Sylvia Jansen (SJ) Harry, today your name is synonymous with everything great about Canadian and B.C. wine.

What was the moment you first realized you were a wine lover?

is an invented term; it is the blend of the words merit and age and rhymes with heritage.] Twenty years ago, I was the first to use “Meritage” outside the United States. At that time, the term Meritage could only be applied to American wine. When I talked to the Meritage Association Harry McWatters (HM) My mother pointed out that at about being allowed to use it in Canada, they rejected our three years old, I would sip wine from other people’s cups! application because it was not “American.” So I called I lived in an Italian neighbourhood when I grew up, and as them and asked if they had a map on hand. They did. I a good neighbour, my mother would bake for others. We said, “What’s that pink part above the United States?” He received wine in return, so it was normal for us to have said, “Yes, I see it, it’s Canada.” So I said that Canada jugs of Italian wine in our root cellar! is part of North America. I also I just grew up with wine. When I was It is the responsibility of the argued that the benefit of bringing 16 years old, I began making my own the term to Canada was that we retailer and restaurateur wine. It was not the beverage most 16 would bring Meritage into our VQA year olds were drinking, and it was to help their customers standards. That way, any wine being not great at first, but it got better! proposed as a Meritage wine would understand the difference have to go through the VQA tasting SJ One of your current projects is an between VQA wines and panel, and have an assured quality Okanagan Meritage. The concept designation. My argument was also non-appellation wines. of Meritage is an interesting one— that we in Canada would not be could you explain? inventing another competing term, but rather we would be reinforcing their concept. Our application was eventually HM A Meritage wine can be red or white, but must be successful and now in Canada you cannot market a wine made from Bordeaux grape varieties (blends of mainly labelled “Meritage” unless it is VQA. “Meritage” is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc for reds, recognized as a quality wine blend and in fact it can now with white wines, using blends of Sauvignon Blanc, be used by any winery in the New World.

Semillon, Muscadelle). No single variety can occupy more than 90% of the blend. A Meritage should be the best In the Okanagan, particularly out of the south, Meritage that you can do, and in fact I have never tasted anything can be great. We see hotter temperatures there, with a lot labelled “Meritage” that disappointed me. of ripeness in the flavours. In a good year, we can ripen In 2013, the Meritage Association will be celebrating its 25th anniversary. It was originally developed in the United States to pay tribute to “New World” wines that were made from noble Bordeaux varieties. [Ed note: “Meritage”

44 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

both Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which are later crops.

SJ What’s the difference between the south Okanagan and the north?

HM Well, that depends on where you draw the line. Generally, the line is drawn at the McIntyre Bluff [near Okanagan Falls]. Essentially, north of Okanagan Falls, early to mid-season grape varieties do best. Pinot Noir is great in some of these places. Similarly, the Okanagan is great for traditional method sparkling wine—but again, people need to be careful—it is site-specific. Sumac Ridge has made great Stellar’s Jay wines, and the fruit for this has come from north of Okanagan Falls. And the heart of the blend was actually Pinot Blanc.

SJ What is happening in the Okanagan right now? In your opinion, are people planting the right things?

HM Yes, but there are also people planting the wrong things! We are in a highrisk area—the whole Okanagan is at the margin of being able to grow grapes for wine. It is important to do assessments on soil, topography, sunlight, rainfall, everything. But the area has great potential, and we are seeing it everywhere.

SJ How do Canadian wines, and B.C. wines in particular, compete in a strong, competitive market of international wines?

HM There are many wines that are produced in the $50 market that are a great buy. For Meritage wines that I have worked on, we have dropped grapes in the vineyard during the growing season for a smaller crop of great fruit; we have used just free-run juice, done in small batches, aging in barrel, and a great wine is the result. These wines are an excellent value compared to wines around the world.

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SJ One problem for us in Manitoba is actually getting B.C. wines into our market! Why is it so difficult for us to offer Okanagan wines outside of the Okanagan?

HM The problem is one of quantity. Many of us produce really tiny quantities of wine, and do not have enough to ship out of province. Even when there is enough, it is difficult to afford to sell it because of shipping costs—we would be losing money, and your customers would be paying a much higher price than in B.C.!

SJ Thinking about VQA regulations, the non-VQA “Cellared in Canada” designation allows for a great proportion of wines from other countries to be blended and bottled to look like Canadian products. Should there be more clarity on Cellared in Canada wines?

PROUD SUPPLIER & INSTALLER OF

HM I am not opposed to Cellared in Canada wines. All over the world, there are multinational wines being marketed under brand names. The Cellared in Canada term allows us to use some portion, even if it is a small portion, of Canadian wine with imported wines, and to bottle it in Canada using Canadian labour and Canadian equipment. If you think about the fact that orange juice or coffee— none of which is grown in Canada—can be processed here in a Canadian plant and then called a “product of Canada,” then Cellared in Canada is at least as fair. There is some Canadian wine in the blend, and processing, packaging and labour is also Canadian. Wine should not be subject to a tougher regulation than coffee or orange juice.

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It is the responsibility of the retailer and restaurateur to help their customers understand the difference between VQA wines [100% from the province of production] and non-appellation wines [such as Cellared in Canada]. Wine lovers should also decide for themselves whether they want to drink non-appellation wines, or to drink VQA. SJ Harry, thank you for everything you have done, and for everything you do for Canadian wine! 

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PURCHASE YOUR WINE ONLINE Too busy to stop by? We can help! http://www.banvilleandjones.conervine.com Contact us before 10AM, and we will deliver to your doorstep that same day!

Delivery is available within city limits Monday to Saturday from noon to 5 PM, and is free for orders of $200 or more before tax. For information about registering for CornerVine, contact Banville & Jones Wine Co. at 204.948.9463.

gluggy

By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG)

summer sippers There is something about summer that makes everything seem easier. Entertaining in the winter is always a whole to-do. You are using the oven, the stove, the microwave; you break out the dishes, cutlery, and glassware. You spend time doing food prep, wine pairings, table setting, and getting the ambiance just right.

Fast forward to summer: all you really need is a stack of paper plates, a roll of paper towel, a cooler full of ice, and a BBQ. It is acceptable to say BYOB (and even BYOM). The deck and the dock have built-in ambiance, and if you really want to go all out, you can light some lanterns when the sun goes down.

After surviving a winter like the one we’ve just had, most Manitobans are just happy to gather outside, no special treatment required. Summer sippers are a perfect match for summer fun because they always hit the mark and never break the bank.

I never fret over the perfect wine pairings for a BBQ— instead, I simply try and cover all the bases for my friends’ varied palates. My no-brainer for a starter is always sangria. No time, no problem: grab a box of Bodegas Sanviver Lolailo, a pitcher, and a bag of frozen fruit, and you’re done. If you have a little more time, make a fruity cocktail using Lillet (white or rosé) or Vineland Vice (icewine infused with vodka).

Open the cooler, push the beer to one side, and fill it up with super refreshing, inexpensive, cheerful overachievers like Bon Courage Unwooded Chardonnay, Simonsig Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, Ventisquero Reserva Sauvignon Blanc and the everpopular Quadri Pinot Grigio.

For my red-loving friends, I like to keep my choices light, and even a little chilled. Bodegas Aragonesas Don Ramon Tempranillo/Grenache is great served a little chilled, as is Backhouse Pinot Noir. For something with a little more body, my superstars are Simonsig Cabernet/Merlot and Beaulieu Vineyards BV Coastal Cabernet. No one will ever guess that every one of these wines is under $15, and some are even less than $12.

Finally, don’t forget the rosés! In the summer, I like to introduce my friends to killer dry rosés, such as Laurent Miquel Père et Fils Cincault/Syrah or Bodegas Alconde lo nuestro Garnacha.

As much as I enjoy a good party, I also really enjoy the odd summer moments I get to myself, and last year, I stumbled upon my new favourite summer hobby.

About two weeks into a crazy heat wave, I decided to get a blowup pool for my son, Max. Apparently the rest of the city had the same idea, so I ended up with a three-foot deep pool with the maintenance requirements of a real pool. I can’t tell you how many times I threw a floating chair in there and relaxed with a book and a glass of Bokisch Garnacha Blanca. As the sunny days turned into evening, I would light a fire in the pit and hit my hammock with my laptop, a movie, and a glass of Lander Jenkins Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon. No one celebrates summer like a Manitoban!

The start of summer still feels like the last day of school to me. Difficulties ease and heavinesss lifts and life becomes like that song, “Summertime and the living is easy.” Don’t overthink it: just take a deep breath and dive into the simple life. 

www.banvilleandjones.com 47

trending

By Rob Stansel

Wine & Superfoods Our mothers told us not to eat it. It was “just garnish,” a sprig of green on an otherwise earth-toned spread, something to brighten the carnivore’s plate, only to be scraped into the trash. Now it’s eaten by the bushel and hailed as a leafy messiah: kale, wonder green of stand-and-stir culinary heroes like Rachel Ray, nemesis to the four-ingredient would-be warriors of Chopped. I know: kale’s old hat, totally last winter. You’re probably already hoarding a littleknown pseudo-seed from Mongolia, refusing to name your supplier, and waiting out the impending quinoa bubble, aren’t you?

Well, I’m still learning the ABCs of complete proteins (A is for amaranth, B is for buckwheat…), but if your refrigerator, like mine, is something of a mystery basket at the best of times, then perhaps you can relate to my conundrum: where did all of these “super foods” come from, and what the heck am I going to drink tonight with my açaí and goji berry crumble?

Counter-intuitive, you say, to pour over Nutrition Facts tables until I can’t distinguish sugar from sodium and then reach for a bottle of Grenache? Hardly. Antioxidants and polyphenols and the French Paradox and all that, remember? We drink wine because we love it; that it might just make for a healthy heart is, as I see it, a bonus. We eat “ancient grains” because, well, Dr. Oz told us to. And let’s face it, he’s right: white rice is bland, red quinoa tastes better.

So if the super foodies are onto something—and even if they aren’t—it falls on the wine nerds to investigate.

48 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

I’m proposing that we play along with Francois Chartier, author of Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food and Wine, in embracing the “nobility of bitter tastes”: sweets be damned, our palates are—thanks to our ancestors’ need to detect poisons in order to survive—designed for the bitters, and the super foods phenomenon is nothing if not a playground of astringent, nutty, earthy flavours. Bitter is in.

But because food is generally the spoil sport of a pairing— wine tends to be easier on food than food is on wine—we’ll need to choose our wines carefully. 

Super Pairings Quinoa & toasted almonds?

Pair to the nuttiness with a dry Oloroso sherry, like our Hidalgo Gobernador (Spain, $25.99) Kale & curried apples?

Pit some sweet against the bitterness with an off-dry Riesling, like our Tawse Sketches (Niagara, $19.99) Avocado & rare tuna in your salad?

Bring on the acid with a bone-dry Riesling, like our Zinck Pfersigberg Grand Cru (France, $28.99) Pomegranate relish or blueberry salsa with your protein?

Match the fruit with a ripe red, like our Damas Vineyards Fiddletown Zinfandel (California, $23.99) Goji berry crumble?

Add some fizz to the crunch with a Moscato, like our Innocent Bystander (Australia, $11.99)

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wine institute

caps manitoba It’s official! As of March 2013, CAPS Manitoba is the newest chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. Although organized for and by sommeliers, the scope of CAPS reaches beyond the interests of professional sommeliers to embrace industry professionals from wineries, distribution agencies, restaurants, hospitality, journalism, and education. CAPS may even embrace you.

“It’s the Sommelier’s job to make your experience perfect, and find the match that makes you shiver,” says Jessica Harnois, CAPS President in The Cellar Door (Issue 14).

To this end, the activities of CAPS Manitoba promote excellence not only in wine but in hospitality service.

Provincial chapters host events, provide communication within the profession, and promote education from casual to intense, from novice enthusiast to professional sommelier. Banville & Jones Wine Institute is proud to be the host school in Manitoba for the CAPS Professional Sommelier Program.

CAPS is best known for high-profile sommelier competitions hosted by provincial chapters that feed national and international contests under the auspices of Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI). In March of 2013, Véronique Rivest from Quebec achieved second place in the world competition in Japan, becoming the first woman in the history of the competition to win a podium place.

The nascent CAPS Manitoba chapter will spread its wings by supporting and hosting events open to members and non-members. The potential scope of events is exciting.

Of course, wine tastings and food and wine events are de rigueur, but the world of sommelerie encompasses cuisine, beer, spirits, non-alcoholic drinks, service, and more, all of which are fair game for chapter activities.

CAPS Manitoba membership is open to sommeliers with accreditation from a recognized sommelier training program—not only the CAPS programs—and to individuals and businesses with an interest in the goals of this not-for-profit organization. If you would like more information, please contact CAPS Manitoba Secretary Andrea Eby at andrea@banvilleandjones.com.

50 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS Wine Specialist 100 (No prerequisite; acceptance on a first-come basis) WS 100 is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes basic instruction in restaurant wine service. Topics include the WSET® Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food with wine matching; and basic wine service.

WS 100 is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program.

Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks (non consecutive), 6:30–9:00pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week.

Course offerings: September 16, 2013 (Mondays) and January 2014 Cost: $600 plus GST

Wine Steward 200 (Prerequisites: WS 100; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits or ISG 1; acceptance on a first-come basis)

Photos by Ian McCausland

CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS (continued)

WS 200 is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. WSET® Level 3 builds on the topics of WSET® Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. WS 200 is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program.

Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks 6:30 to 9:00pm Course offerings: September 17, 2013 (Tuesdays) and September 2014 Cost: $1,200 plus GST

BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: WS 200; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications) The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous and challenging program that covers knowledge and service of wine, spirits, beer, and other beverages; sensory theory and evaluation; food and wine interactions; the business of wine; and management of a restaurant wine program. Graduates receive a professional Sommelier designation recognized by CAPS and ASI. A PSP is currently in progress: the next PSP start date is TBA. Cost: $3,250 plus GST Register for all courses at Banville & Jones, 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com.

For full course descriptions, please visit www.banvilleandjones.com and click on “Taste and Learn.”

WINE APPRECIATION: BASICS PROGRAMS Wine Basics, Level 1

Beyond Basics, Level 2

This course is for anyone who enjoys wine and wants to know more. The two evenings focus on: tasting wines from major grape varieties, putting words to wine tastes, discovering how quality affects price, navigating restaurant wine lists, and the basics of food and wine. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones.

Course offerings: September 18 & 25 (Wednesdays) or October 3 & 10 (Thursdays) Cost: $79.00, plus GST

An intermediate course that builds on the knowledge gained in Level 1.

This course covers: why place matters: tasting through the world's main wine regions; as well as sparkling, Champagne, Ports and fortified wines.

Four nights of classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones.

Course offerings: October 16 to November 6 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00, plus GST

Red River College Seminars Banville & Jones is partnering with Red River College to bring exciting wine seminars to their Continuing Education Programs. Fall programs in wine and food pairing held at the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute will be announced by early August at www.banvilleandjones.com/wineinstitute.php, and are open to all.

Register for Basics courses by calling Banville & Jones at 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com.

Gift cards are available for Banville & Jones Basics classes.

www.banvilleandjones.com 51

harvest okanagan

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS)

Where do Canadian orchards, award-winning vineyards, golf courses, beautiful lakes and amazing inland beaches live side by side? The answer is not the Whiteshell! It’s the Okanagan Valley, one of Canada’s most unique travel destinations. The Okanagan is one of the few places in the world where you can downhill ski in the morning, waterski in the afternoon, and sip unique wines by the fire all evening long. It’s a year-round playground for young and old, and the harvest season is my favourite time to visit.

Gamay grapes thrive on the slopes of the Okanagan Valley (Photo by Todd Antonation)

Fall festivals, and more festivals Harvest begins in mid-September and runs through October (weather permitting!). Flying into Kelowna at the north end of the valley will give you a bird’s eye view of the stunning fall colours and an impression of the sheer majesty of the region’s geography.

The Okanagan Wine Festival Society does an amazing job of organizing festivals from the spring planting season through to the fall harvest. The WestJet Wine Tasting events happen in both spring and fall. They are two-day events where you can sample over 250 Okanagan Valley wines along with local artisanal breads and cheeses. Why not start here, so you can plan which wineries you want to visit for the rest of your trip?

52 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

The society knows that tourists come from all over to try the wine, but the local cheeses also have a chance to impress during the festival season. The Harvest Reds and B.C. Cheese Festival and the Blind Wine & Cheese Soiree are two such events. The Harvest Reds and B.C. Cheese Festival is unique to the fall. In this interactive seminar, you will sample local fare alongside regional red wines, and learn what flavours make for the best pairings (and why). At the Blind Wine & Cheese Soirees (held in spring and fall), guests are served both wine and cheese with covered labels so each can test their palate and their knowledge.

Check out www.thewinefestivals.com for more information on all of the Okanagan’s great wine and cheese festivals.

Clockwise from top: Wine lovers flock to the Okanagan Valley for the Fall WestJet Wine Tasting event (Photo courtesy of the Okanagan Wine Festival Society); Poplar Grove's vineyards overlook the scenic town of Penticton (Photo by Todd Antonation); Howard Soon, head winemaker at Sandhill Estates (Photo courtesy of Sandhill Estates).

Okanagan’s own Once you have tasted through the wines offered at the valley’s wine festivals, make a plan to explore wineries throughout the Okanagan Valley. We have a few recommendations of our own to start you off. Heading from north to south, start your tour with a stop at one of the region’s biggest operations, Andrew Peller, located in the heart of Kelowna. Make sure to sample their iconic Sandhill Small Lots wine; run by head winemaker Howard Soon, the program produces small lots of wine that change each year and represent the best of the Okanagan terroir (read more about Soon and Sandhill Small Lots in Behind the Label on page 21). Their tasting room is fantastic: it is spacious, with knowledgeable hosts and a great set of wines to taste.

Moving out of the city, and down Route 97, pass through Summerland, and stop at Sumac Ridge to try their sparkling wines. Nothing says “Hello, Okanagan!” like a refreshing glass of bubbly and a relaxing lunch on the patio!

Above: Sailboats dot Lake Okanagan (Photo by Todd Antonation); Below: Nk' Mip Cellar is North America's first Aboriginal owned and operated winery (Photo by Todd Antonation)

Spend the afternoon in the growing region of Naramatta Bench on the east side of the Okanagan Lake. Poplar Grove put a lot of time, money, and effort into their operation, having opened a state-of-the-art winery in 2011, and a restaurant, Vanilla Pod, in 2012. Stop for lunch or dinner and you can experience Okanagan wine at its best: paired with fresh seasonal food grown in the same soil!

Next, head off to Blue Mountain, home to both iconic wines and breathtaking views (as you can see on the cover of this issue). This amazing winery uses only estate fruit and has been continually farmed by the same family for over 40 years. Make sure you try both their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris!

As you head down to Osoyoos, be sure to check out the Golden Mile and Black Sage Road. Some of Canada’s best reds come from these sub-regions, with wineries such as Nk’ Mip (pronounced In-ka-meep), Burrowing Owl, and Church and State.

One final word of advice when it comes to the Okanagan: take your time!

There are over 120 km of ground to cover, and there is no shortage of wine, scenery, food, or great hospitality. Take your time to discover and savour all that the Okanagan has to offer. 

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43 Scurfield Blvd, Winnipeg, Manitoba R3Y 1G4

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Wine & Food Evening Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Cost: $79.99 per person Friday, July 19: The Velvet Glove Thursday, August 8: Amici Wednesday, August 21: The Current at Inn at the Forks Saturday, September 21: Wasabi Sabi Friday, October 4: Terrace in the Park Sunday, October 27: Peasant Cookery Thursday, November 7: All Seasons Catering

Cooking Class Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.

Luxury Tasting Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.

Cost: $99.00 per person Saturday, September 28: Italy’s Finest (in the Cave) Friday, November 1: Old and New World Collide!

Sampling Chef’s best at Banville & Jones Chef Tim Palmer of The Velvet Glove will be cooking up his favourite items from his Chef’s Table menu for our customers.

When: Drop by any time between 3 and 5 pm Saturday afternoons in June Where: Banville & Jones Wine Co.

Cost: $89.99 per person

banville & jones

wine & food

events schedule July 2013 through November 2013

Wednesday, July 24: Urban Prairie Thursday, October 24: Elements

Click on the Taste and Learn tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Food and Wine Events.

To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event.

• Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted.

• Prices do not include taxes.

Chef Palmer invites you to experience his six-course Chef’s Table dinner, offered evenings from Monday through Saturday at The Velvet Glove. For more information, please call 204.985.6247.

56 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Committed to the next generation of industry leaders.

We’re proud to celebrate the opening of the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute, a new state-of-the-art training facility that allows us to contribute to Manitoba’s economic growth by increasing the number of skilled graduates working in the culinary and hospitality arts.

rrc.ca

GoldsmithinG fine jewellery since 1993

We are the place your jeweller does not want you to know about.

Come and see why

services offered:

Custom Jewellery Designs CAD CAM services Diamond Engagement and Wedding Rings Jewellery Repair Professional Cleaning and Polishing Stone Setting Pearl Restringing Hand Carved Wax Design Insurance Claims Retail Sales Silver Fashion Jewelery

suite 316 - 283 Portage Ave winnipeg mB r3B 2B5 Phone 204-942-5236

hours of operation: 8 – 5: monday – thursday 8 – 4: friday

www.winnipegcustomjeweler.com

culinary partners

529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez!

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:00 for dinner.

956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

With a bright, sunny view of The Forks, The Current is the perfect place to wind down after work or host visiting guests to the city.

Experience a deliciously Canadian gourmet menu, complemented by an award-winning wine list. The lounge also offers live Jazz on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared old world dishes and topnotch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves.

Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch onthe-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts.

Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3pm to 6pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few.

3-1360 Taylor Ave 204.415.7878

Step into the Atrium of the Assiniboine Park Pavilion and you will find yourself in the warm and inviting atmosphere of Terrace Restaurant.

Relax and enjoy a glass of wine while Chef Simon Resch tantalizes you with his exciting new menu. Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality are offering a one of-a-kind seafood experience to Winnipeg: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods.

Unit B, in the Pavilion at Assiniboine Park 204.938.7275

58 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Amici at Niakwa Golf Club Amici Restaurant Bistro 7¼ Blaze Bistro Bombolini Brooklynn’s Bistro Café 22 Café Dario Diana’s Pizza Elements Elkhorn Resort Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Fitzroy Greenwood Inn & Suites Horfrost Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa Hy’s Steakhouse Jane’s Restaurant and Red River College Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood Le Cercle Molière Local Burger Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina Mulligan’s Restaurant and Lounge Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto Purple Hibiscus Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia Southwood Golf and Country Club South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Step'N Out Sukhothai Swiss Chalet The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine

Proudly featuring

Benjamin Moore • Paint bar • Spray booth • Wallcoverings • Flooring and tile • Window coverings • Richelieu hardware • Custom colour matching • Custom finishing work and a team of professional painters

STORE HOURS: Mon to Fri: 7am - 5pm Saturdays: 8am - 4pm Sundays: Closed

521 Hargrave Street Winnipeg, MB (204) 942-7271

www.westernpaint.ca

Serving Winnipeg since 1908

shopping list

Backhouse 2011 Pinot Noir Napa Valley, USA $12.99.............................................................................................................. 43 Bartier Scholefield 2010 B S Rosé Table Wine Okanagan Valley, Canada $28.99...................................................................... 29 Bartier Scholefield 2010 B S White Table Wine Okanagan Valley, Canada $28.99..................................................................... 29 Beaulieu Vineyards 2010 BV Coastal Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma, USA $13.99.......................................................... 47 Billecart-Salmon nv Brut Réserve Champagne, France $64.99................................................................................................... 38 Bon Courage 2012 Unwooded Chardonnay Roberston Coast, South Africa $14.99............................................................ 47, 62 Blue Mountain 2011 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, Canada $24.99............................................................................................ 31 Blue Mountain 2011 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, Canada $24.99........................................................................................ 31 Blue Mountain 2011 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, Canada $29.99........................................................................................... 31 Blue Mountain nv Sparkling Brut Okanagan Valley, Canada $24.99......................................................................................... 31 Bodegas Alconde 2011 lo nuestro Garnacha Rosado Navarra, Spain $13.99............................................................................. 47 Bodegas Aragonesas 2010 Don Ramon Garnacha/Tempranillo Campo de Borja, Spain $11.99................................................ 47 Bodegas Sanviver Lolailo Sangria Madrid, Spain (750 ml) $8.99 (3L) $31.99........................................................................... 47 Bokisch 2012 Garnacha Blanca Lodi, USA $21.99.................................................................................................................... 47 Caves de Lugny nv Brut Rosé Cremant de Bourgogne AC, France $21.99................................................................................. 62 Clos de la Roilette 2011 Beaujolais Burgundy, France $26.99.................................................................................................... 14 Col dei Venti 2011 Barbera d’Asti Piedmont, Italy $16.99......................................................................................................... 14 Damas Vineyards 2009 Fiddletown Zinfandel California, USA $23.99..................................................................................... 48 Dodgy Brothers 2011 GSM McLaren Vale, Australia $42.99.................................................................................................... 62 Flor nv Prosecco Veneto, Italy $19.99........................................................................................................................................ 62 Guicciardini Strozzi nv Cusona Brut Sparkling Vernaccia Tuscany, Italy $19.99........................................................................ 38 Hidalgo nv Gobernador Oloroso Sherry Jerez, Spain $25.99..................................................................................................... 48 Innocent Bystander 2012 Moscato Victoria, Australia (375 ml) $11.99..................................................................................... 48 Joseph Mellot 2011 Le Tronsec Pouilly Fumé, France $25.99 ................................................................................................... 62 Lander Jenkins 2011 Spirit Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, USA $18.99..................................................................... 47 Laurent Miquel 2010 Nord Sud Syrah Languedoc, France $17.99............................................................................................. 40 Laurent Miquel 2011 Pere et Fils Rosé Cinsault/Syrah Languedoc, France $13.99.................................................................... 47 Lillet nv Blanc Apertif Gironde, France $16.99.......................................................................................................................... 47 Lillet nv Rose Apertif Gironde, France $16.99........................................................................................................................... 47 Nuance Wine Finer $34.99........................................................................................................................................................ 14 Ployez-Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Brut Champagne, France $55.99...................................................................................... 38 Quadri 2011 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie, Italy $12.99............................................................................................................... 47 Quinta Do Vale Meão 2009 Meandro Douro, Portugal $31.99................................................................................................. 62 Sandhill 2007 one Phantom Creek Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, Canada $41.99............................................................... 21 Sandhill 2009 two Sandhill Estate Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, Canada $42.99................................................................ 21 Sandhill 2009 three Sandhill Estate Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, Canada $42.99.............................................................. 21 Simonsig 2012 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa $12.99............................................................................ 47 Simonsig 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Stellenbosch, South Africa $11.99......................................................................... 47 Tawse 2010 Sketches Riesling VQA Niagara, Canada $19.99................................................................................................... 48 Tolaini 2008 al passo Tuscany, Italy $29.99............................................................................................................................... 40 Tommasi 2010 Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Italy $26.68........................................................................................ 24 Torbreck 2011 Woodcutter’s Shiraz Barossa, Australia $33.99.................................................................................................. 40 Ventisquero 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley, Chile $11.99............................................................................ 47 Vineland nv Vice Icewine/Vodka Niagara, Canada $43.99......................................................................................................... 47 Walter Clapis 2009 The Hedonist Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia $25.99................................................................................ 40 Warre’s 1994 Vintage Port Duoro Valley, Portugal $159.99....................................................................................................... 14 Zinck 2010 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Alsace, France $28.99........................................................................................................ 56 Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina $16.99.................................................................................................... 14

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as availability of product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. 60 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

sidebar

By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

secret service Four of us tripped in off the dark street through the doors of Berry Brothers & Rudd on St. James’s Street in central London. It was ten minutes before closing at the historic wine shop, but this was our only opportunity to visit, so we wanted to make the most of it. I had a few questions, and I was looking for a wine or two. Despite the clock ticking, the staff person—a reserved, smartly dressed man in his forties—dealt with us graciously.

He gave us a brief history, from its start in 1698; an interesting artifact was a framed letter on the wall from the White Star Line, apologizing that 69 cases of their wine had gone down with the Titanic. We talked about wine. I was after an inexpensive wine, and was also searching out a particular small Champagne producer.

He helped me with the first, and about that Champagne, yes, they had two. We chatted. One was in a price range I was expecting for a good Champagne, about $60 Canadian, and the other was about twice the price.

Hmm, I thought. Probably more than I should spend.

Not hearing the conversation in my head, he explained the differences and asked which one I might like. Despite the fact that I really wanted the more expensive one, I asked for the other. “Absolutely.” He drew it from the shelf and began the invoice. As he was doing that I asked, “So, is the other one really that good?” He paused, as though we had all the time in the world. “Well,” he said quietly, “it is quite something.” He re-explained its taste profile and its rarity. At that moment, the extravagant wine geek inside me took over from the responsible one.

I had him swap up for the one I really wanted in the first place. When we left, it was after six.

The Champagne was divine. I was glad it was not part of what went down in the Titanic.

A week later, in the town of Troyes in southern Champagne, I came across another wine shop, a small stone building across from the big cathedral. The main floor display had single bottles, stacked wood crates, and a doorway that led to uneven stone stairs and a poorly lit basement. You knew the basement existed only if you asked about something not on display, but the culture of the shop was to greet customers and learn about their likes and dislikes. With the staff person’s help I bought some affordable wines; it was my friend who asked about an expensive one. We trundled down the stairs and talked over bottles in the dim light. I left the shop with only the inexpensive wines. Close to an hour later, after a glass of wine and a conversation, I walked back into the shop. The staff person greeted me with, “So, you have been thinking about your Corton Charlemagne?”

My secret agenda when travelling is to find interesting wines and wine shops. I am also on an even more secret agenda: I want to know how, and how well, wine shops serve their customers.

Wine is a distinct commodity, part agriculture, part commercial; it is partly about taste and partly about experience. And no one knows everything. But staff who know their wines, and who take the time to understand their customers, can help them find their ideal wine. The secret is in the service.

So here’s to you, secretly. 

www.banvilleandjones.com 61

top picks

Todd Antonation

Scott Berry

Jill Kwiatkoski

Flor nv Prosecco DOC Italy $19.99

Joseph Mellot 2011 Le Tronsec Pouilly Fumé AC, France $25.99

Caves de Lugny nv Brut Rosé Cremant de Bourgogne AC, France $21.99

Celebrity chef Lidia Bastianich collaborated with her son, renowned restaurateur Joe Bastianich, to create this over-delivering Prosecco.

Flavours and aromas of ripe pear, peaches, and Golden Delicious apples lead to an extremely lively and creamy mousse. This bubbly pairs well with decks at the lake, good friends, and hot summer days.

This beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley has an appealing nose of ripe gooseberry and grassy notes. The nose opens up even more with a flinty minerality that follows through to the palate with some great acidity and a long finish. A fantastic example of Pouilly Fumé with some very interesting distinctions that make it stand out.

This gorgeous bubbly is sure to make you fall in love with Cremant de Bourgogne! Aromas of fresh bread and strawberries with a hint of floral, this sparkler is lively on the palate with a clean finish. It is perfect as an aperitif with lighter appetizers and a lovely pairing with chocolate!

Rob Stansel

Brett Lamoureux

Mike Muirhead

Quinta Do Vale Meão 2009 Meandro Douro DOC, Portugal $31.99

Bon Courage 2012 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson Coast, South Africa $14.99

Dodgy Brothers 2011 GSM McLaren Vale $42.99

A barbed, bristling monster from the land of rubies and tawnies, this is one of only three wines produced by the Olazabal family estate. They carry a small portfolio of massive wines. The 2009 season was an exceptionally dry year in the Douro: expect a deep, brooding red with mouth-coating tannins. Get your decanter out and turn on the grill.

With our tastes attuned to lightertasting wines in these summer months, this medium-bodied citrus Chardonnay is great on your patio or in the backyard with friends.

Characterized by melon notes and a slight lime finish, this wine can be enjoyed with white fish, creamy salads, and lightly prepared chicken.

Dodgy Brothers are three friends who share a passion for amazing wine from the McLaren Vale, but get this: one of the “Brothers” is Winnipegger Wes Pearson, who worked at wineries in Canada and France, before settling in Australia.

The wine is rich with velvety tannins; fresh, purple flowers; raspberry jam; and a long, lingering finish.

62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

SINGLE VINEYARD WINE ONE DISTINCT VINEYARD. ONE DISTINCT WINE EXPERIENCE.

Discover how long sunny days, sandy soil and glacial mineral deposits produce rich, fresh whites.

Not to mention gold medals.

B C V Q A O K A N AG A N VA L L E Y