the
Cellar Door Wi n e and p ossi b i l i t ie s by Banville & Jone s Wine Co.
salud spain! Issue 9 June – September 2011
Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodríguez
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contents Features 25 A Dream for Spain: Telmo Rodriguez
Tina Jones sits down with Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodríguez to discuss the history and future of the Spanish wine industry.
25
35 What About Spain?
Mike Muirhead explains why Spain is at the cutting edge of Old World wine and food culture.
45 Barcelona to Bilbao: Where Tradition Meets Innovation
Syliva Jansen shows us how one corner of Spain can illuminate the uneasy truce between history and innovation in this most diverse country.
35 45
Cover: Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodríguez. Photo courtesy of Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez.
www.banvilleandjones.com 5
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contents Columns
10 A Message from Tina Jones 13 Ask a Sommelier 40
16 Banville & Jones and Company 20 Product Review
53
23 Behind the Label: Grupo Pesquera 30 Gary’s Corner
Spain, the modern traditionalist
38 Deciphering the DO
What Spanish labels are trying to tell us
40 Gluggy
An evening of tapas and wine
42 Green Cork Glass bottles weigh heavily on the environment
50 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 55
51 Wine Online 52 Banville & Jones Events 55 Test Kitchen
Chef Tristan Foucault serves our Sommeliers his Spanish Mixed Paella
59 Sidebar
Real men drink RosĂŠ
60 Culinary Partners 61 Shopping List 59
62 Top Picks www.banvilleandjones.com 7
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Publisher and Marketing Director Megan Kozminski megan@poisepublications.com
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Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Graphic Design Aubrey Amante cr3ativegraphics@gmail.com
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Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Scott Berry, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Tristan Foucault, Sarah Kenyon, Gary Hewitt, Brooklyn Hurst, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Pauline Lomax, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Karen Nissen, Betty Setka, Rob Stansel Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by
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www.poisepublications.com
Let our personalized and professional service find the car of your dreams, and deliver it to your door.
Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Baville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com
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a message from tina jones For me, Spain is a place of fascination, curiosity, and energy. The country is so similar to other European regions—a long history, beautiful terrain, and easy-to-love climates—yet there is a difference that sets Spain apart from its neighbours. The difference is difficult to describe—and that’s the intrigue! There is an excitement in the air in Spain. Spain is poised as a leader in gastronomy and in wine. Visionary winemakers such as Telmo Rodríguez know there is huge potential in Spain’s rich wine heritage, and they are committed to bringing it to the world stage. Telmo Rodríguez has embraced the essence of Spain’s unique wine heritage and is taking it to levels never before realized! He is among many young people passionate about the rise of Spanish wine. They know that a healthy respect for traditional Spanish grape varieties, coupled with the right techniques, produces something very special. Their counterparts in the world of cuisine are using fresh, local ingredients to dazzle the palates of the world. The country, its people, and its wines are in a special place right now. There is such tremendous diversity and dynamic movement that it can be overwhelming! In this issue, we put our finger on that pulse. I am delighted to share with you a lively conversation I had with the remarkable Telmo Rodríguez. Also in this issue, Gary Hewitt explores new developments in Spanish winemaking, Mike Muirhead introduces the fundamentals of Spain’s wine industry, and Sylvia Jansen explores one special corner of this exciting country. I invite you to join us in the intrigue! We are always excited to bring you this magazine. Now, less than three short years since our first issue, we are proud to say that we are part of an award-winning team! The Cellar Door received the People’s Choice Consumer Magazine of the Year Award at the Manitoba Magazine Publishers’ Association Maggie Awards in April of this year. Thank you to all our readers and advertisers for your loyal support!
Salud!
Tina Jones
10 www.banvilleandjones.com
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Atop the tallest hill on the Tolaini Estate stands a unique forest, known as al passo. Centuries ago local land barons hunted using trained birds as decoys to lure the prey into the passage (passo). Today this hill offers magical, breathtaking panoramic views of the countryside and sunsets over the towers of Siena. Named for the beautiful forest, al passo is a modern wine that combines the best Tuscan traditions.
TOLAINI
al passo
TOSCANA IGT 2006
E X C L U S I V E LY AVA I L A B L E AT
1 6 1 6 S T. M A R Y ’ S R O A D • W I N N I P E G , M A N I T O B A 204.948.9463 • BANVILLAEANDJONES.COM
ask a sommelier What’s the big deal with decanting? Is it necessary? —Chef Ben Kramer, Diversity Foods (U of W) Dear Chef Kramer, There are two main reasons to decant a wine. The first is to “open up” a young wine that has been designed to age. The idea is to expose as much air to the wine as possible in the hope that the wine will open up and be more expressive on the nose and the palate than it would have otherwise been. The second major reason to decant is for sediment. As red wine ages, pigments and tannins may aggregate to form particles heavy enough to fall out of suspension and form a sediment. The result is a paler and softer mature wine. The sediment is harmless but tastes gritty—a mouthful of sediment is no fun. To decant for sediment, handle the bottle carefully as to not disturb the contents. Pour the wine into the decanter very slowly, using a light to illuminate the neck. When you see sediment, cease pouring. You can always try to salvage the remainder by waiting until the sediment settles again. Finally, you may want to decant a wine simply because you like the look of your decanter. A nice touch, but hardly necessary. —Brooklyn Hurst I have been hearing about Sommeliers who are starting to pair wine and food based on shared molecules. How does this work? —Chef Adam Donnelly, Segovia Dear Chef Donnelly, Wine and food combinations can range from awful conflict (tannic Cabernet with raw oysters) to
sublime synergy (Sancerre with chevre cheese). Most pairings fall into the range of neutral (food and wine still taste good, but neither is improved by the combination) to good (either the food or wine tastes better in combination, but not both). Most successful pairings depend on matching the weight and body of the food and wine and the impact of the wine’s sweetness, acidity, tannins, effervescence, and alcohol. Aroma and flavour are considered mostly in terms of the Sommelier’s experience and intuition. A Canadian, François Chartier, has championed a new approach for matching aromas and flavours based on specific aromatic molecules, thereby improving the odds for a sublime pairing. Foods can be grouped according to their aroma components; for example, a large group of herbs (including fennel, mint, tarragon) and vegetables (including endive, parsnips, yellow beats) share a significant number of identical aroma molecules that harmonize beautifully with the fennel-like herbaceous aromas of Sauvignon Blanc. The theory accounts for classic pairings based on taste experience, but perhaps more importantly, it helps predict the success of new, exciting combinations for recipes and wine matching. On a molecular basis, it becomes clear why an intriguing affinity works (e.g., pineapple for vanilla and cloves) and why the simple addition of one aromatic ingredient (a pinch of tarragon for a dish paired with Sauvignon Blanc) can move a good wine pairing into the sublime. Overall, it’s about understanding the relationship between food and wine, and I relish having another tool to improve the odds of great pairings. Check out François Chartier’s recent
book, Taste Buds and Molecules, if you want to learn more. —Gary Hewitt On a recent trip to wine country, we noticed a lot of people are using French oak. Everyone wants to be sustainable in winemaking, so are the forests of France sustainable? —Chef Alex Svenne, Bistro 7¼ Dear Chef Alex, There are thousands of wineries in the world, and many of them buy French oak barrels. For example, in the Napa Valley there are 450 wineries; some wineries buy 5 barrels a year, and some buy 105. This answer required a lot of research and help from our friend Lisa Airey at the French Wine Society. Over 29 per cent of France is covered in oak forests, accounting for about half of all standing trees. Forty per cent of those forests were sustainable in 2006 and two-thirds of them will be by 2015. As for the long-term approach, as Lisa puts it: “With regard to planning for the future, the French started pre-planning for their use of oak 600 years ago.” All oak purchased by barrel makers (coopers) is done by auction, so it is a self-regulating system of supply and demand. On average, one oak tree produces between four and six barrels and has to be between 120 and 150 years old before it is cultivated for sale. France is the leader in sustainable forestry, and if wineries want more barrels, supply and demand will dictate and they will pay the price to keep the forests sustainable. —Mike Muirhead If you have a question for our Sommeliers, visit us at www.banvilleandjones.com/cellar.aspx
www.banvilleandjones.com 13
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Pizzeria Gusto is an extension of my dinner table, where friends, family and loved ones gather together to share conversation, laughter, food and wine. The aromas, sights and sounds are a constant reminder of centuries old Italian traditions, which instantly welcome you to the family. We believe that pizza is the perfect food. A blank canvas that has unlimited possibilities in both taste and texture. By using fresh local produce and authentic Italian ingredients your experience will surely have you saying “Buonissimo!”
Perfect Summer Pairings: Pizzeria Gusto, Donna Laura & Tolaini Wines
Donna Laura Ali Sangiovese di Toscana
Donna Laura Alteo Chianti
Tolaini al passo
• 2007 • Sangiovese • IGT:
• 2006 • Sangiovese • DOCG:
• 2006 • Sangiovese/Merlot • IGT:
Grilled Flank Steak with roasted
cauliflower, salsa verde, and brown butter
Classic bruschetta- tomato,
basil, Parmigiano Reggiano
Grande Zio- grilled Italian sausage, spinach, peppers, extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic
Altezza- roasted beets, fresh
Antipasto- Chef's selection of
market greens, goat cheese,
Italian meat & cheese
walnuts, balsamic reduction,
peppers, salami cacciatore,
organic olive oil
salami Calabrese, mozzarella,
Lamb Bruschetta- slow roasted lamb, rosemary, garlic, pecorino, micro arugula
mozzarella di bufala
The Lucia- caramelized onions, salami Calabrese, fig jam, cambozola, arugula
887- tomato sauce, roast piquillo
Filetto- 7oz tenderloin, grilled asparagus, roasted cherry tomato, poached egg
PIZZERIA GUSTO • PIZZERIA GUSTO • PIZZERIA GUSTO Donna Laura and Tolaini wines available exclusively at: Banville & Jones • 1616 St Mary’s Road • 204-948-9463 • www.banvilleandjones.com
banville & jones and company
On April 28, The Cellar Door took home the 2011 Manitoba Magazine Publishers’ Association People's Choice Consumer Magazine of the Year Maggie Award, in what CBC's Terry McLeod termed a "landslide win," with double the votes of any other magazine nominated.
Friends of Banville & Jones (clockwise from the top): The 2011 Manitoba Magazine Publishers’ Association Maggie Awards: Jill Kwiatkoski (Banville & Jones), Megan Kozminski (Poise Publications), Lisa Muirhead (Poise Publications), Pauline Lomax (Banville & Jones), and Mike Muirhead (Banville & Jones); Jorge Crotta of Bodega Catena Zapata in Argentina enjoys The Cellar Door's Champagne issue; Serge Levesque of the Rolland Collection shares Michel Rolland’s wines with the customers of Banville & Jones.
16 www.banvilleandjones.com
(clockwise from top left): Andrea Eby pours for the Team Diabetes–Rome Marathon Fundraiser Wine Tasting in the Banville & Jones Tuscan Room; Gary Hewitt tours the Bodega Rolland in Argentina with winemaker Rodolfo Vallebella; Piero Incisa della Rochetta gives Gary Hewitt and Mike Muirhead a tour of the Bodega Chacra winery in Argentina; Team Diabetes-Rome Marathon host Sara Hutniak and friend Aisha Alfa enjoy a tasting at the benefit evening; Sylvia Jansen with Gil Nuñez Domenech, export manager and Josep Torres Sibill, winemaker, at Cava Bertha in Sant Sadurni d'Anoia, Spain; Jill Kwiatkoski and Tammy Mosek in the Casa Silva barrel room, Chile; Sylvia Jansen tours the Mas d'en Gil vineyards with Marta Rovira in Priorat, Spain. www.banvilleandjones.com 17
unforgettable. spicy mango prawns
Happy hour at Wasabi Sabi means a choice of 4 delicious sample-sized items for only $16 (Monday to Saturday, 3pm – 6pm). Choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few. Also enjoy Oyster Nights at Wasabi on Broadway every Tuesday night and Happy Hour at Wasabi Sushi Bistro every night starting at 10 pm. For complete menus visit wasabigroup.com.
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product review Sanviver Lolailo Sangria Who says that a bag-in-a-box wine can’t be delicious? Prove all naysayers wrong this patio season with Lolailo’s bag-in-a-box sangria. Imported from Spain, Lolailo will assume a commanding position in your fridge; as your neighbours increasingly “swing by” for more than just the pleasure of your company. The bag-in-a-box technology keeps your sangria fresh for months! To share, simply drop frozen fruit and ice into a glass, serve, and prepare to serve a second round. Lolailo is the very best premixed red Sangria on the market, and it’s exclusive to Banville & Jones! Price: $30.99
WineTender and Rapid Ice Cooler Summer’s must-have accessory: the WineTender doubles as both a dispenser and rapid wine cooling system for your summer events. The WineTender is built especially for bag-in-a-box wines (perfect for Lolailo Sangria!). Chill the wine cooling element in the freezer, insert in the dispenser with a bag of your favourite summer wine, and you will have ice-cold refreshment within 10 minutes! Price: $49.99
Palette Bowls Bring a splash of colour to your summer BBQ with Palette bowls. The large and medium bowls make a great summer salad set, or combine the small and large bowls as an enviable serving set for your nachos and salsa. Lightweight and stylish, they are perfect on the deck, on the dock, on the patio, for the kids party, for the growns-ups’ party—anytime! Price: small: $14.99; medium: $24.99; large: $34.99
20 www.banvilleandjones.com
Guy Fieri BBQ sauces Guy Fieri, the face of the Food Network, has travelled across America, sampling local fare in his show, Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. His new line of BBQ sauces brings the diverse flavours of America to your summer grill. Pick up his whole line of BBQ sauces, Carolina No. 6, Bourbon Brown Sugar, Pacific Rim, and Kansas City, in the Banville & Jones specialty food section. Price: $6.99 each
make a difference this summer All summer long, Banville & Jones is helping raise money for the Scotiabank AIDS Walk for Life. Buy any Tolaini wine (Picconero, Valdisanti, or al passo) and we will donate $3 per bottle. Buy any Donna Laura wine (Bramosia, Alteo, or Ali) and we will donate $2 per bottle. Funds raised will support direct services for Manitobans living with HIV & AIDS.
www.banvilleandjones.com 21
"A robust mix of contemporary eclectic flavours, unique romance, and innovative technique will linger on your palate and keep you coming back for more." —100 points
2011
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Product of Winnipeg
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behind the label: grupo pesquera By Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG)
Condado de Haza 2007 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa $25.99
Tinto Pesquera 2008 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa $28.99
The Ribera del Duero region of Spain is an area steeped in history. For over 2,000 years, vineyards have graced the riverbanks of the Duero River, as it winds its way toward Portugal. By the dawn of the 20th century, however, quality wines were largely a thing of the past, and cheap, bulk wines prevailed. Wine lovers had forgotten about Ribera del Duero, or they had simply never heard of it in the first place. It took a visionary like Alejandro Fernández (a.k.a., the “King of Tempranillo”) to almost single-handedly propel this region, more famous for its sugar beets than its wine, from the forgotten to the forefront of the wine world. A self-made man, Alejandro Fernández made his fortune designing and manufacturing machinery for the booming local sugar beet industry. Few could fathom why, in 1972, when everyone else was busy ripping up vines to plant more profitable irrigated crops, he risked everything to invest in vineyards. Despite criticism, Fernández forged ahead with his dream to create a wine that would be different from all the others. Traditionally, the only internationally recognized wine style of Spain was from Rioja, a mellow wine that was completely aged before its release from the winery. It was his vision to craft a wine that would be dark and lush, with loads of ripe fruit and smoky oak, full of structure and tannin that would allow it to age in the bottle—the antithesis of Rioja. He took over his family’s vineyard, complete with a wine press from the 1600s, which was used for vintages from 1972 through 1982. Adding steadily to his family’s original vineyard holdings, the winery, Bodegas Alejandro Fernández, continues to grow and produces
Tinto Pesquera 2007 Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa $42.99
Condado de Haza 2001 Alenza Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa $81.99
several wines under the brand Grupo Pesquera, named for Alejandro’s hometown. Working strictly with Tempranillo, Fernández quietly began to make a name for himself and his wines. Any doubts that he may have harboured about the success of his venture were forever vanquished when influential American wine critic Robert Parker tasted the 1982 Pesquera Tinto, and lauded the wine as “the Petrus of Spain.” Fernández proved that Ribera del Duero— previously known only for the historic (and expensive) Vega Sicilia wines—was a contender on the world stage. Overnight, the winery and the region went from relative obscurity to international fame, with people clamouring to get their hands on a bottle from Pesquera. In 1992, there were only 70 wineries in Ribera del Duero. Now, in part due to the success of wines such as Pesquera, there are over 250. Not only has Alejandro Fernández catapulted the area to international fame, Spanish wine law was rewritten in 2008, granting Ribera del Duero the prestigious DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) status. Reserved for Spain’s most historic and high-quality wine regions, this designation confirms that Ribera del Duero has entered the big leagues. Fame and glory have had little effect on Alejandro Fernández. Now in his 70s, he continues to craft stunning wines in this rugged and remote corner of Spain. Recognized and respected around the world, Alejandro Fernández exemplifies what is possible when determination and inspiration combine. Long live the King of Tempranillo!
www.banvilleandjones.com 23
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A Dream for Spain:
Telmo Rodríguez An interview by Tina Jones
Telmo, who is often referred to fondly by only his first name, is a young legend of Spanish winemaking. His contributions to the wine industry are mature and sophisticated, yet his approach to life, Spain, and his accomplishments are humble and practical. Tina Jones travelled to Spain and sat down with Telmo Rodríguez to discuss his dream for Spain: to bring the traditions and culture of his country to the forefront of Spanish wines, while incorporating a respect for terroir into the passionate future of Spanish winemaking. Tina Jones: How many regions does Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez cover? Telmo Rodríguez: We are presently in Rioja, Ribera, Cigales, Rueda, Toro, Valdeorras, Cebreros, Malaga, Alicante—nine in total. In Rioja, Ribera, and Toro I produce three wines; in Malaga, Cebreros, and Rueda I produce two wines; in Alicante, one wine; and in Valdeorras, one wine, but I make both a red and a white. TJ: Why is your production area so vast, so spread out across Spain? TR: I didn’t want to be so spread out. My challenge when I started my project—it was more of a dream— was to go and recuperate the forgotten places. For me, it was very clear that I wanted to produce wines that were very original, very distinctive. At that time, there was a wine boom in Spain, but a lot of investors were planting Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Syrah. My challenge was to go completely in the opposite direction. Spain is a very exciting country because, here, you find a lot of different “Spains.” My challenge was not “Oh,
let’s go everywhere!” Not at all. Every project has been an adventure. It was never my intention to produce so many wines. I wouldn’t say that I’m working all over Spain, because it’s not true— in Spain you can find wines everywhere. There are as many wines as there are villages in Spain. But it’s true that my vocation was to find, or rediscover, the forgotten places. I’ve done a very exciting thing. Some of these places were going to die, and thanks to us, they will not. So, I am very proud. TJ: It’s very admirable. You are probably Spain’s most celebrated winemaker on the international market, and we often hear that Spain needs more Telmo Rodríguezes. Do you agree? TR: Maybe I’m well known outside of Spain because I have been working a lot. My project is all about producing original wines, and trying to find good clients who are very open and sophisticated. I may be one of the most well-travelled winemakers in Spain because I believe that energy grows through my importers and my clients. It is true that when you decide to produce wines in so many different regions, and you decide to export 80 per
www.banvilleandjones.com 25
cent of your wine, you have to work a lot. I don’t believe in “star” winemakers, however.
to produce a great wine in Spain. We don’t need that. We need more passion.
When I came to Rioja, in the late 1980s, early 1990s, a “surfer” like me with long hair was enough to make people notice and say, “Ah! This is the revolution—a winemaker with long hair!” At that time, all the wineries were in the hands of managers, and the winemakers were chemicos [chemists]; maybe it was not very sexy to be a chemico. I am of a generation that has moved away from a boring, traditional winemaking approach. Today, the Spanish wine industry is very exciting, with a lot of very talented, nice young people. I’m very proud of what we have done, but I got the impression that we have been working in silence. To write about my wines is very difficult, because I don’t think we have done a lot of iconic wines. We have never been looking to be very famous; in fact, our wines are very honest and very simple.
TJ: What is special about coming back to your family estate at Remelluri?
I remember journalists saying, “You are making very modern wines, very stand-out, very international.” It’s not true—the problem is the word “modern.” The world has an image of Spain that is completely wrong. All my wines are based on original Spanish grapes. I’m not at all interested in spectacular wines. TJ: The wines you are producing are amazing and very value-oriented. What do you think about all of the “new money” and the foreigners pouring money into the wine regions such as Rioja and some of the other regions? TR: I think everything we do for wine is great—we need more money in Rioja. The young, talented people working in nice vineyards are the future of Spain. A lot of good and very passionate people will make very good, honest, and interesting wines. But, we have to be careful not to be in the middle of artificial projects. I don’t think it’s enough to have a good architect and a lot of money
TR: For me it is special because it is a place that I love. I have lived in Remelluri since I was very young, but it is also important for wine: it has history. Since the Iron Age, man has been working that estate. The monks in the 12th century had vineyards. It is a privilege to have a site with such history, like Clos de Vougeot, Château Ausone, or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The privilege for a wine producer is to have a place that holds all that historical information. For me to be back here is very interesting, because here, I have everything I never had; I am able to produce something original and very authentic. TJ: I would like to talk about wine labels. I think that labels are a representation of the balance between the art and the science of winemaking. Your labels express what you want people to see in your wine. TR: When I started my project, I didn't put too much “design” into the labels. I found somebody to design the labels who was Spanish in origin who didn’t know anything about wine labels. In Spain, wine labels were beautiful in the 18th century, but they were very ugly starting in the 1970s. Then, the new producers, like me, who had a background in French and Italian culture, started copying a little bit, with reference to the French and Italian wines. I didn’t want to produce a wine with a French or Italian label. I wanted it to be very Spanish. I didn’t want to work with a designer who had in mind all those nice French, Italian, or even American labels. I wanted to work with somebody who had a sense of the typography and the graphic design of Spain. So I worked with Fernando Gutiérrez, because I think he’s got that sense of quality and tradition. But it’s very funny, because
The following wines by Campania de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez are available at Banville & Jones Wine Co.: Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Basa Rueda DO, Spain ($16.99) Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Viña 105 Cigales DO, Spain ($17.99) Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 LZ Rioja DOCa, Spain ($19.99) Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Dehesa Gago Toro DO, Spain ($19.99) Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 De Matallana Ribera Del Duero DO, Spain ($47.99)
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TJ: In our store, we see your wines as a catalyst for where Spanish wine is going on the international market, in Canada especially. There is a quality renaissance going on. What is the next big thing we should watch for? TR: I think, for wine lovers, Iberia is going to be the next thing to discover. The beautiful thing about Spain, and about Portugal: they never cease to improve. Imagine that you go to a beautiful abandoned house, and in every room you enter, you find something beautiful. I think that Spain’s potential is huge. Today we talk about Priorat like “Ah, Priorat!” And Priorat is beautiful, but 20 years ago, it was nothing. I believe in Spain because there are amazing grapes and amazing terroirs.
Also, nobody knows that Spain is a country with amazing white grapes. It’s very exciting to think we have Godello, Treixadura, Verdejo. More and more, I think wine lovers are looking for something original. I think this is what we can offer. We have really good wines and really interesting flavours.
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TJ: Spain is also becoming a mecca for culinary arts on the world stage. TR: This is amazing because a few years ago, the worst restaurants in the world were Spanish! I remember telling my importer in America, “Don’t sell my wine in Spanish restaurants”—because they were horrible. All the restaurants had a torero and flamenco. For me it was disgusting, because it was not the reality in Spain. The real Spain has amazing food culture. TJ: So what changed? TR: It didn’t change. It was like our wine: Spanish wine was always here. Then, you went to Sweden, to Finland, and the worst of Spanish wine was there. The image of Spanish wine was that it was a “good value.” And the worst wines in the United States 30 years ago were Spanish, in the baskets for two dollars. The food was exactly the same, but it was very unfair, because
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it was not showing the reality of Spanish cuisine. You go to Alicante, you can have some of the most beautiful rice in the world. You go to Basque country, you can get some great seafood. Today, people discover that Spain is very interesting because we have top restaurants. We are a country that loves food, and that is fundamental to Spain’s contributions to new experimental cuisine. Ferran Adrià [Head Chef of El Bulli] has revolutionized the world of gastronomy. TJ: The Tempranillo grape is also known as the Noble Grape of Spain. Why do you think so? TR: It is well known because it was the grape of Rioja; it was the grape of the Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo has different names in different areas. But I think Grenache is an amazing grape that nobody talks about, and its origin is Spanish. Some of the most amazing red wines from France are made from Grenache. Tempranillo is the most well-known grape, but I think you will see that in Spain, in the future, we will talk about Mencia, we will talk about Monastrell, we will talk about Graciano, a lot of different, interesting grapes. And the beautiful thing is that they are grapes from Spain. And they are not Cabernet, and not Merlot. TJ: Tell me about why you are in love with bush vines. TR: Ah, bush vines. Always, my life has been like a fight. In Spain, I was fighting Cabernet and Merlot, of course. Fighting for our grapes. It was stupid to see so many investments based on Cabernet and Merlot. It was completely insane; they were destroying vineyards. I think by trellising all of Spain, we have destroyed the landscape. The bush vine is a very interesting way to manage your vineyard. I think that bush vines are very unique to Spain and that is our identity; we shouldn’t destroy them. In the future, to have a vineyard in bush
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vines will be an argument of simplicity and character. This is very important. I think we have to respect our origins and character, and then, if you are able to produce a better wine with this, and the wine is different and original, this is much better. It is our inheritance. TJ: How are bush vines unique? TR: Three of the top wines from Spain are Pingus, Vega Sicilia, and L’Ermita. Those three wines are bush vines. Peter was very clear about doing his Pingus with bush vines; and I thought, “This is great! We have something.” You have to be very careful: when you have been doing something for more than one thousand years, don’t change the density of your vineyards without thinking of your quality. In Spain, we should be much more sensitive to the vineyard, to the quality. One of the big mistakes, in Rueda, for example, was when an engineer from Navarra told the people, “If you want to be modern, use trellis, use smaller densities.” I think that was a mistake. Every country has to maintain its character. If not, we live in a world where everything is a “Spice Girl”—not very interesting. Maybe you can create a product and be very successful, but if you are in wine and food, it’s very important to maintain a link to tradition. The bush-vines are much more beautiful than the trellises. You know, at the beginning, I didn’t have any money to buy my vineyard. Today, I am very proud that there are no trellised vineyards in my company. TJ: Yes, you have a lot to be proud of Telmo. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and insight with me. On that note of pride, the interview ends when Telmo’s children come racing into the room. Telmo’s face folds into a smile with the announcement, “And now, welcome the monkeys!”
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gary’s corner By Gary Hewitt, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CWE
Spain, the Modern Traditionalist
perhaps this dichotomy is a characteristic of the Spanish.
In the dark, early morning hours of a harvest day, grape pickers, heads aglow with miners’ lamps, work rapidly to collect bunches of ripe Verdejo grapes. Their grape-filled baskets are whisked onto trucks to be layered with an inert gas (such as nitrogen) to minimize exposure to oxygen on the quick trip to the winery. Again under an inert gas blanket, the grapes are chilled to 15– 18ºC, crushed and pressed prior to a slow, cool fermentation in a shiny stainless steel tank. The new wine is protected by a gas blanket during stainless steel tank storage and on its journey to the bottle.
In the mid-19th century, staunchly traditional Rioja clung to methods as old as the Roman occupation when faced with importation of Bordeaux winemaking techniques by the likes of Marqués de Riscal. But resistance gave way to acceptance—by most producers—when the Marqués’s wines sold for unprecedented prices and the then-modern style of Rioja became established. This style, typified by the strong vanilla scent of American oak and gentle maturity of lengthy barrel aging, has more recently been challenged by the spicier accents of French oak and fresher fruit of shorter aging regimens. Today, once again, the traditional and modern coexist.
Such is the genesis of one of Spain’s great modern white wines from Rueda. Its delicate, fresh, and lively style was inconceivable a few decades ago. Traditional wines were harvested in the heat of the day, processed in stone troughs, fermented without temperature control, and aged in wood. Verdejo’s propensity to oxidize gave deepcoloured, heavy, nutty wines—a style severely out of step with modern tastes. Rueda wines emphatically illustrate the wave of modernization that swept over Spain subsequent to Miquel Torres’s first use of stainless steel tanks for white wine production in the Penedès region (near Barcelona) in the 1960s. One by one, oxidized white wines gave way to fresh, modern wines first championed by a few and then imitated by many. But always, a few stubborn traditionalists continued to make oxidative wines for their diminished following of diehard fans. Spain simultaneously became modern and retained tradition. Yet, there is historical precedent:
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The knowledge of Champagne production was brought to Spain in 1872 by Josep Raventós (founder of Codorníu) and, in time, was embraced by a small band of Sant Sadurní, Catalonia producers called the Seven Greek Sages. Their innovation and experimentation established optimal local grape varieties, equipment design, and process parameters. The gyropallette, now used worldwide— including in Champagne!— streamlined the clarification step of traditional method sparkling wine production and greatly reduced overall production costs. Traditional method made modern, ha! The story continues to unfold across Spain’s grand expanse, a sea of modern taste washing away most, but not all, of a long tradition. Export volumes now challenge those of Italy and France and we, in our distant market, still have much to discover. Explore the wines of Spain: historic Sherry, traditional and modern reds, and brilliant fresh whites, and enjoy.
The Styles of Spain Increasingly, modern styles dominate the Spanish wine selection in our market. You may need to travel to Spain— an option that I strongly encourage!—to find many of their more traditional wines. However, knowledge of official style terms found on Spanish wine labels will help you find wines with less or more aging. Joven indicates young, fruity wines with no barrel aging, to be tasted within 12–18 months of release. Crianza (literally “breeding”) red wines are aged at least 24 months, with more than 6 months in wood barrels before release from the bodega (winery). Aging softens the wines and may infuse some oak flavours, but today’s wines are still intense and fruity upon release. Reserva red wines are aged at least 36 months, with more than 12 months in barrel. Top quality grapes can benefit from longer aging and give intense age-worthy wines, often with a stronger oak signature. Gran Reserva red wines are aged at least 60 months, with at least 18 months in barrel. These more traditional wines are produced only in the best vintages. Softened tannins, dried fruit nuances, and long finishes make a memorable impression.
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Join River East Travel and Cruise Centre and Banville & Jones Wine Co. on an once in-alifetime VIP tour of South Africa! This 12-day History, Wine & Safari Tour is guided by wine and travel expert Sylvia Jansen, CSW, Sommelier (ISG, CMS). This unique cultural tour is packed with South African experiences that will stimulate your mind and your senses. Don’t miss it! For more information, please contact: Philip Houde, CTM River East Travel & Cruise Centre 204 338-4677 • 800 653-1177 info@rivereasttravel.com www.rivereasttravel.com
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Rioja DOCa (Photo courtesy of Wines from Spain)
What about
Spain? By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW The superpowers of the wine world take a lot of our attention. France and Italy especially boast of long traditions, noble grape varieties, diversity, and dynamic movement toward the future. We study their wine regions, we enjoy the fact that their grape varieties have migrated around the world, and we celebrate the world’s imitations of their wine styles.
So what about Spain? Spain is at the forefront of a quiet wine revolution, reconfiguring the wine world and ushering in the new leaders in the Old World. It is a revolution that is turning that question into an awe-filled exclamation.
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A symbol of the Spain’s storied history, the Cathedral-Mosque of Córdoba has housed a pagan temple, Visigothic Christian church, mosque and Roman Catholic cathedral.
Tradition Tempranillo: The Noble Grape (Photo courtesy of Wines from Spain)
grapes of Spain Red Tempranillo (Temp-rahknee-oh) Region: Rioja and Ribera del Duero Garnacha (Gar-nach-ah), also known as Grenache Region: Rioja, Priorato, and Navarra Monastrell (Mon-az-trell), also known as Mourvèdre Region: Jumilla and Penedès Cariñena (Kari-nyen-ya), also known as Carignan Region: Calatayud and Costers del Segre White Verdejo (Ver-day-ho) Region: Rueda Albariño (Al-bah-reen-yo) Region: Rías Baixas Airén (Eh-ren) Region: La Mancha and Alicante
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Vines have graced Spain’s countryside for over 3,000 years, brought first by the Phoenicians, and perpetuated by the Romans. Since the 8th century, wine has been part of the fabric of Spanish progress. With the arrival of the phylloxera (the pest that devastated much of France), an influx of French winemakers moved south of the Pyrenees, and brought with them modern winemaking techniques and new grape varietals. When phylloxera hit Stpain, they were prepared, and the wine industry continued to grow unabated. The late 20th century has been the most important for Spain, with the development of regulations aimed at increasing quality, and an evolution in winemaking techniques and equipment. One grape to rule them all While Spanish winemakers work with a diverse set of grape varieties, Tempranillo is omnipresent. Tempranillo is unique in its ability to grow in many different climates, which has meant an abundance of wine styles emerging from this one grape. It can be fresh and perfumed in Rioja Alavesa, and big and broody in Toro. In Navarra, it is silky and voluptuous, whereas in Ribera del Duero, it shows blackberry and current, and an amazing affinity to oak. Tempranillo can be light and fresh when poured young, but also has amazing aging potential when sourced from Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo’s steady dance partner is normally Garnacha (Grenache), but it may also occasionally tango with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Diversity Spain’s diversity is often overlooked. It is the third largest country in Europe, and covers over 500,000 km2 across latitudes ranging from 36 to 44 degrees (most wine is grown between the latitudes of 30 and 50 degrees in the Northern Hemisphere). Across its large tracts of land you will find arid desert conditions, Mediterranean conditions, continental conditions, and almost every other climate condition possible. The diversity flows through Spain’s lifeblood: its people. When it comes to cultural diversity, Spain is one of the richest countries on earth. Strong, distinct cultures of Catalan and Basque as well as Muslim culture add a richness to the country’s history of art, architecture, and music. All of these factors lead to an environment where diversity is celebrated. Wine styles are equally diverse: Spanish wine can vary from the bubbly wines of Cava, to the rich oak-aged reds of the Rioja, to the dry (and sometimes sweet) Sherry of the southwest.
Bush vines distinguish traditional Spanish vineyards (Photo courtesy of Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez).
Spain’s grapes grow in a multitude of soils and climates, from lush Mediterranean to arid desert (Photo by Carol Fletcher).
Storing cava on riddling racks at Cava Freixenet (Photo by Carol Fletcher).
the Result Spain’s unique culture and climate have positioned it as a leader in the Old World’s wine industry. The amazing diversity of Spanish wines makes them attractive to any palate. Moreover, Spain is being energized by a whole new generation of savvy vine growers and winemakers, who are blending a healthy respect for tradition (including traditional Spanish grape varieties) with innovation and new technology. The result is a range of unique, quality-driven wines that are being celebrated around the world. If you have not tried Spanish wine lately, it is time to raise a glass and say: “What about Spain!”
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deciphering the DO By Rob Stansel
The “Back Label.” Though many back labels on wine bottles are notorious for their slapdash translations and suggested food pairings, these little stickers on the back of all Spanish wine bottles are not just ornamental; they’re law. Most Spanish wines on our shelves are classified according to their DO (Denominacion de Origen), or place of origin. But don’t let all the numbers and jargon scare you. As the number of designated wine-producing regions continues to multiply, the need to re-brand has become more urgent— consumers need to believe that an appellation and its label imply, even guarantee, quality. Spain’s new generation of vintners, at home in a rugged landscape adorned with strikingly avantgarde wineries, has decided to beat the New World at their own game. Drawing on the diversity of Iberian aesthetics, the DO label designs showcase everything from Catalan modernisme to Don Quixote. The distinctive holograms of Rioja and Ribera del Duero are perhaps the most eye-catching; their sparkle is a flashy reminder to budding DOs that the big boys won’t be easily overthrown.
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gluggy By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG), CSW planning to sip it while we warmed the tapas. Next was Domino de Eguren Protocolo Blanco, a crisp clean white made from Airén and Macabeo grapes. It is the perfect backyard sipper on a hot summer day, and pairs perfectly with white fish. My next choice was Don Ramon, a Tempranillo Grenache blend that is a very popular lighter-style summer red. Serve it slightly chilled and it won’t let you down in the heat! This paired perfectly with the battered chicken tapas.
I have lived in Winnipeg for most of my life, so winters here don’t really bother me. I have always loved the glittery snow and all the fun that comes with it. I am the first girl to throw on some snow pants and get outside with my son Max to have a snowball fight, build a fort, or go tobogganing. But once we start heading into month four of the deep freeze, the allure of winter has left me. I long for green grass, backyard BBQs, friends around the fire pit, and a super-cold pitcher of white sangria. With thoughts of summer dancing around in my head, I decided to throw an impromptu get-together. A few phone calls and a few hours later, I began my preparations for a Spanish-themed chick night. There is nothing more Spanish than tapas, so I assigned each of my friends a primary ingredient to contribute to our tapas table. I believe that when you are working in the kitchen you should stick to what you know, so my contribution to the evening was to open the wine cellar. The great thing about Spanish wine is that there is so much versatility in the choices, that food pairing is a cinch. Out came the ice bucket and in went a bottle of Castellblanch Brut Cava: the champagne of Spain. Bubbles will pair with anything, but we were just
My next choice needed to kick it up a notch; I needed a little more body and a slightly richer red. My eyes scanned the shelves, until: Aha! I needed a single varietal Tempranillo, probably a Crianza. I wanted a Rioja Crianza because they must be two years old and spend at least one year in oak. This aging process raises the complexity quotient, but the wines are still very approachable. I couldn’t wait to try this with the pork belly. Suddenly I heard the doorbell (I was running late as usual), so I grabbed a bottle of Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell and a bottle of Bodegas Ateca Garnacha de Fuego and headed up the stairs. The girls arrived with a ton of food and we headed into the kitchen. Some dishes went to the stovetop, while others went into the oven for warming. As we sipped Cava, I taught the girls the secrets of my white sangria. It was a great night spent happily making our plans for the summer while we mixed and matched the wines with the tapas. I woke the next morning with a smile on my face and a few more dishes to do. Confident in my belief that summer was right around the corner, I turned my attention back to the day at hand. After a quick clean up, I woke Max, asking him his favourite spring-time question: “So what’ll it be today buddy, skateboarding or bike riding?”
summer sangria Here is what you need for this summer treat: One bag of frozen fruit; I like to use strawberries, peaches, and blueberries. Frozen fruit is great because it replaces ice and doesn’t dilute the flavour of the Sangria. Next step is the wine. Use what you have, but it is best if it is a fresh, light, and (most importantly) unoaked white. Pour the wine over the frozen fruit and then add fruit juice (I use Five Alive Citrus) and a little Sprite. This is delicious already, but wait: I still have a trick up my sleeve. An ounce and a half each of Grand Marnier and apricot brandy will take this Sangria over the top. Stir and serve. (And make sure you take credit for the recipe!)
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green cork Gary Hewitt, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CWE & Lisa Muirhead The weight of glass bottles has two major impacts on the wine industry: the dollar cost of physically shipping bottles and the environmental cost due to emissions created during production and shipping. You can think of it like the 100-mile diet, a concept that has heightened consumer awareness of the “real costs” associated with shipping— how much does that yummy ripe banana enjoyed in Winnipeg in January really “cost”?
sentimental attachment to glass wine bottles—tradition, aesthetics, and the cork pulling ceremony—we can take a hard look at true packaging alternatives. Australians have done so by embracing “clean-skin” bag-in-box wines (still stigmatized in Canada as “cheap”) in which glass has given way entirely to a light-weight polymer that conveniently collapses during use to prevent oxidation of the remaining wine.
Glass weights and alternatives
Another emerging alternative is the Tetra Pak, essentially a paper container with a complex polymer lining. Compared to glass bottles, Tetra Paks use 92 per cent less packaging and consume 54 per cent less energy throughout their life cycle (which includes production, transportation, and disposal), resulting in 80 per cent less greenhouse gas emissions.
In the wine industry, a heavy standard 750 ml glass wine bottle, such as a Champagne bottle, weighs about 850 g, a medium-weight bottle weighs about 650 g, and a light bottle weighs, on average, 450 g—though bottles as light as 300 g exist. The weight difference results from reduced glass thickness, and, in some cases, from minimizing the bottle punt (that dimple in the bottom of many bottles that lends structural strength). Wineries pay shipping costs for both shipping the empty bottles to the winery and shipping full bottles to market. For Australia, the leading exporter of wine to Manitoba, shipping requires transport by truck to a consolidation point and then to port, by ship across the Pacific Ocean, and by truck to Manitoba (to be delivered, again by truck, to your favourite wine store, and to your home by car). Use of lighter bottles means that each of these loads moves more efficiently with relatively more wine in each weightsensitive shipment and subsequently lower “costs.” the Carbon footprint: Production versus transportation Fetzer Vineyards is a leading eco-friendly California winery that uses certified organic grapes, a solar-powered bottling facility, and recycled materials to package their wine. Their wine bottles contain 35 per cent recycled glass, and have recently been reduced in weight by 25.5 per cent by using 16 per cent less glass, for an overall annual glass weight reduction of 2,100 tons! Fetzer claims a 14 per cent reduction of greenhouse gas emissions throughout the supply chain—that includes less energy spent during production of the bottles, as well as for transportation. Plastic or tetra: The wave of the future? At the forefront of this debate is the option of moving away from glass bottles altogether. If we set aside our
Another emerging innovation is plastic wine bottles. Loire Valley winemaker Vignobles Joseph Mellot has created plastic bottles so similar in appearance to screw-cap glass bottles that people gasp in surprise when they first lift the light, soft bottles. Their PET bottle has special oxygen and UV-light blocking layers and has none of the leeching concerns of phthalate-containing plastics. The advantages of plastic packaging include: reduced weight, as light as 54 g per bottle; safer transit, as plastic bottles are more robust than glass alternatives; smaller size; and greater recycling potential (especially in Winnipeg, where there is no current market for recycled glass). While the current PET plastic used is more gas permeable, making the container less suitable for wine you want to age in your cellar over years, the vast majority of wines are made for consumption within 1–2 years of production, so there is still a vast potential market for non-glass wine containers. In addition, plastic makers are experimenting with barrier technologies to make their product more wine-friendly. While paper and plastic alternatives to glass are by far the superior environmental choice, it remains to be seen if wine producers, and wine consumers, can get past their sentimental attachment to the traditional wine bottle.
Vignobles Joseph Mellot’s Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc, shown here in PET plastic bottles, looks just like glass—until you pick it up!
Eco-friendly tags on Banville & Jones Wine Co. store shelves indicate wines from around the globe that are produced under four categories: sustainably produced, organic, biodynamic, and carbon neutral.
42 www.banvilleandjones.com
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Hospitality Has a New Home Next fall, the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute at Red River College, located in Winnipeg’s Exchange District, is opening its doors and becoming the new training facility for the College’s Culinary and Hospitality programs. Award-winning instruction, state-of-the-art equipment and applied research will ensure that RRC Culinary and Hospitality graduates continue to excel in the Manitoba workforce.
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Barcelona to Bilbao: where tradition meets innovation By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW It is a place where medieval narrow stone passageways and twisting alleys attempt to coexist with titanium wrappings on new-concept architecture. It is a place where simple, peasant cookery can be washed down with a glass of Rosé for a couple of Euros, while right next door, some of the world’s most advanced molecular cuisine and wine culture amaze the palate. It is a place where oceans of fresh, inexpensive Cava sparkles, and where dark, brooding Priorat reds romance the money from your wallet. Between the cities of Barcelona and Bilbao lie 600 kilometres of Spanish culture. It is only a small corner of Spain, but the drive takes the traveller through five Spanish regions: Catalunya, Aragon, Navarra, Rioja, and Basque country. Spanish Style Spain arose in the second half of the 20th century from an oppressive political regime. Its people have passionately embraced a new world of tourism, culture, cuisine, and wine styles. It is almost as easy to find a fabulous modern restaurant as it is to find an inexpensive, casual meal of local serrano ham, cheese, and pan amb tomaquet, (bread rubbed with olive oil and tomato). Tapas bars range from simple and easygoing to bustling destinations such as Cerveceria Catalana in Barcelona. Snacking your way to satisfaction is easy with an ongoing ballet of fresh ingredients, stacked creatively on crusts of bread or on small plates, ready for the plucking with small wooden skewers. Cutting-edge, world-class restaurants invite smart travellers and Spaniards alike. The famed Can Fabes restaurant in the small town of Sant Celoni is a destination near Barcelona. In Sant Sadurni, La Cava d’en Sergi is the place to go. Here, local son Sergi Torres (whose brother runs Cava Bertha) presents a palette of fresh, regional ingredients with a stunning, global view to style. A meal in a fine restaurant is a stylish, unhurried way to experience the new Spain.
Barcelona It is easy to fall in love with Barcelona’s unique rhythms. The city draws its morning breath as the sun begins to creep over the water. It pauses as the sun reaches its highest point overhead, and for a few hours following, to relax in parks, and on the beach. Confused tourists scratch their heads outside closed shop doors. The stores open when the people of Barcelona go out for a walk and tapas in the fresh early evening air. Along the famous Ramblas, and throughout the city, restaurants open at about 9:00 pm to receive their first dinner guests. “Sophisticated travellers know what to expect in Spain, and they look for it,” observes Tina Jones, our intrepid traveller. “They open themselves up to recommendations for food and wine, and have a great time doing it!” A major draw for visitors to Barcelona are the works of architect Antoni Gaudi. Born in the mid-1800s, Gaudi developed a unique style of nature-inspired forms, freeflowing lines, and indigenous materials. Dominating the Barcelona skyline is the church of the Sagrada Familia, still under construction after more than a century. With astounding exterior façades, evocative sculpture, and an airy sanctuary where pillars stand like giant trees, visitors scarcely notice the scaffolds and cranes of the ongoing construction.
www.banvilleandjones.com 45
viña ansorena The Viura grape (also known as Macabeo) has a brilliant mediumstraw colour, with a floral and citrus nose. Silky on the palate, with zesty lemon, dried apricot, green apple, herbs, and some light pineapple notes. The mouth is marked by a pleasant acidity giving a fresh feeling. It’s perfect to accompany fish such as pickerel, risotto and light snacks.
zeta priorato Grenache...call it the best grape you’ve never heard of. It’s the main ingredient in some of the world’s finest wines where wine aficionados are fanatical for its juicy, fruity richness. Try it with well-seasoned meat dishes such as lamb, grilled beef or herb-roasted chicken.
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Canadian architect Frank Gehry has had a huge impact on contemporary architecture in Spain. The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (top two photos) was hailed as the most important building of its time when constructed in 1997, and the Marques de Riscal hotel (bottom photo) brings an ultra-modern feel to the ancient town of Elciego (Photos by Tina Jones).
Barcelona to Bilbao Driving Spanish highways is relatively easy on Spain’s modern, efficient multicarriage freeways. The highways leading from Barcelona pass through a spectrum of Spanish wine styles: Cava country, centred in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia; Priorat, home of stylish, modern Spanish reds; the storied region of Rioja; and its neighbour Navarra. Even the countryside is marked by similar contrasts. “They are combining the incredibly new with the old,” says Jones. “Edgy new architecture is in the cities, the towns, and it is even dotting the countryside. At the edge of the ancient village of Elciego is the Frank Gehry-designed Hotel Marques de Riscal, wrapped in flowing metal bands. In the village of Villabuena de Alava nearby, the streets are narrow lanes between old stone buildings—then you drive around the corner to the old village square and the stacked cubes of the Hotel Viura are facing you! In some places there’s a lot of throwing out the old in favour of the new.” Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodríguez has designed his own winery to be profoundly respectful of place. Rodriguez notes that “Spain rejected the idea of restrictive laws [such as those in France and Italy] on preserving traditional architecture.” Spain has gone too far the other way, he says: “It has the potential to destroy what our ancestors built.”
Bilbao Bilbao boasts new levels of bold architectural imagination. The Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum is a celebrated titanium-draped building that dresses up what was once a seedy port town, and spreads its influence through the region. Since opening its doors in 1997, the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao has become the second most visited museum in Spain, topped only by the Prado Museum in Madrid. The small city of Bilbao has attracted chefs, hoteliers, and a host of international visitors. At the same time, there is a point well taken that what is truly special about this region of Spain might be lost in a fascination with the new and shiny. It will be worth returning again and again to explore how the country evolves.
The Church of San Andrés and the Hotel Viura in Villabuena de Alava illustrate the juxtaposition of tradition and innovation that resonates through Spanish culture (Photo courtest of the Hotel Viura).
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Cava bottles adorn the chimney top of an Antonio Gaudi building (Photo by Carol Fletcher).
Jump into the festivals between Barcelona and Bilbao Haro: Batalla de Vino (Battle of Wine) Haro is at the centre of the important Rioja wine region, and home to Batalla de Vino every June. Imagine throngs of people wearing white shirts and red scarves, armed with water pistols, wine skins, bottles, and even winemaker’s spraying equipment—all filled with red wine. Everyone takes aim and thousands of litres of red wine stain every surface and fabric in view. Pamplona: Fiesta de San Fermin (Running of the Bulls) For nine mornings in July, a half-dozen bulls are sent from their pens into the (barricaded) streets of Pamplona toward the bullring. Participants enter the route and run with the bulls. The ingredients of this festival: angry bulls, runners loaded up on kalimotxo (red wine with cola), rough cobblestones, and a million spectators. The result: noise, chaos, trampling, and the occasional goring. This festival is not for the faint of heart.
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Wine Institute
Banville & Jones Wine Institute has been providing wine education at every level since 2003. Our certified instructors lead courses from the introductory Wine Basics classes to the Wine & Spirits Education Trust® (WSET) and International Sommelier Guild (ISG) programs for the enthusiast looking for certification. Here, two of our accomplished students, Kate Zeke (Sommelier, CWE) and Mich Pambrun (ISG, levels I and II) share their educational experiences.
Mich Pambrun first learned of the Banville & Jones Wine Institute through frequent visits to the store, as well as some of his own research in pursuit of his passion for wine. Mich has completed ISG Levels I and II, and intends to pursue his ISG Sommelier Diploma at the Wine Institute. Mich has extensive experience in the entertainment and service industries (you might recognize him as a staple of the impeccable Wasabi Sabi service staff), and entered the Wine Institute, in his words, “in order to translate my passion for wine into education I can use to pursue a career in the wine industry.” Mich has found that wine education does not stop when you leave the classroom. “You don't realize how much there is to know about wine until you start your wine education,” explains Mich. “My outlook on wine now goes beyond the bottle. I have a greater appreciation for the complexities of wine and there is always something new to learn, including less common but amazing wine styles—and learning to sabre a sparkling wine bottle!” In addition to his career aspirations in the wine industry, Mich has found several perks to his wine knowledge. “My increased wine knowledge has made me a more savvy purchaser of wine. I have the ability to go into a wine store, look at the bottles, and get a pretty good idea of what the wine is going to be like without tasting it, just by translating the information given by the bottle. I especially enjoy the ability and confidence to introduce different styles of wines to friends and clients that they would not usually try on their own.” Through his wine education, Mich has been able to cultivate his knowledge about wine, and he has also found a group of like-minded people who share his passion. Mich confides: “I look forward to a lifetime of learning about wine.”
50 www.banvilleandjones.com
Kate Zeke has extensive experience in the Banville & Jones Wines Institute. She completed levels I and II of the ISG Sommelier Program and graduated in 2010 with her ISG Sommelier Diploma. Kate has also received her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) and Certified Wine Educator designations through the Society for Wine Educators. Kate credits the professional instruction and supportive atmosphere at the Wine Institute for fostering her enthusiasm. “I was so impressed on the first morning of the Diploma program when Tina Jones met each of us at the door to offer her congratulations and encouragement,” says Kate. “Gary Hewitt’s love of wine is evident. When he taught, he made the information interesting, easy to understand, and encouraged all of us to continue to learn more. Throughout the program, we all relied on each other for encouragement and support. It was a great group to be a part of.” Kate started her education with the same knowledge that the average person has about wine: she knew she liked it, and she wanted to learn more about it! Kate explains: “I realize now how very little I knew and how much more I have to learn. You can’t stop reading and experiencing wine, as there is so very much to learn, embrace, and enjoy. My husband and I have met a number of people in the wine industry and our lives have been enriched as a result.” Kate’s wine education also inspired her to launch her own home-based business in Brandon called Wine Advisor, offering education, wine introduction, wine selection for corporate and private events, and staff training. “I cannot express how happy this new role has made me,” says Kate, of her new venture. “Each of the programs and events I have offered has sold out. All of the wines I feature come from Banville & Jones. The ongoing support from the staff at Banville & Jones, as well as the support of the community, have been very encouraging.”
WINE APPRECIATION: BASICS PROGRAMS Wine Basics, Level 1
Beyond Basics, Level 2
September 15 & 22 (Thursdays) Cost: $79.00 per person
October 19 & 26, November 2 & 9 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00 per person
Register for Basics courses by calling Banville & Jones at 948-WINE (9463) or inquire at wine@banvilleandjones.com. Gift cards are available for Banville & Jones Basics classes.
ISG CERTIFICATION ISG Wine Fundamentals Certificate, Level 1
ISG Wine Fundamentals Certificate, Level 2
Duration: three hours, once a week, for eight weeks (nonconsecutive) Starting: September 13 (Tuesdays) Cost: $600.00, includes GST
Duration: three hours, once a week, for 16 weeks (non-consecutive) Starting: September 12 (Mondays) Cost: $1,000.00, includes GST
ISG Sommelier Diploma Program Duration: 23 classes, eight hours per class Starting: Next class dates TBA Current Cost: $3,250.00, includes GST
Register for ISG programs online at www.internationalsommelier.com.
WSET® CERTIFICATION Starting Winter 2012: We are delighted to offer the WSET programs at the new Red River College Patterson Global Foods Institute in downtown Winnipeg! Our affiliation with RRC Continuing Studies and Distance Education brings Banville & Jones’s wine expertise to classrooms in the heart of downtown Winnipeg. Please check our website for further information.
WSET® Level 1: Foundation Certificate Duration: One 8-hour workshop from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm Class dates: Next class dates TBA Foundation Workshops can also be presented on demand at B&J Wine Institute for a minimum of 10 persons: ideal for restaurant staff training or your next corporate team-building event.
WSET® Level 2: Intermediate Certificate: “looking behind the label” (no prerequisite) Duration: three hours, once a week, for eight weeks, 6:00 to 9:00 pm Class Dates: February 2 to March 22, 2012 Register for WSET® courses at Banville & Jones, 948-WINE (9463) or inquire at wine@banvilleandjones.com
For full course descriptions, please visit www.banvilleandjones.com and follow the link to “Wine Education.”
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banville & jones
Events Schedule J u ly t h r o u g h Oct o b e r 2 0 1 1 Passport to Wine
Luxury Tasting
Each Passport evening, Banville & Jones wine experts and local chefs take you on a journey to explore a different country’s wine and food culture. Attend three Passport events, and you will receive a complimentary Eisch Bordeaux wine glass. Cost: $69.99 per person, plus taxes
Thursday, October 6: Brunello vs. Barolo Thursday, November 3: Oh Porto!
Wednesday, July 13: Skewer Madness, a BBQ with Diversity Foods Wednesday, August 10: Cajun Creole, a BBQ with Café Savour Tuesday, August 23: Spain with Segovia Saturday, September 10: Cal-Ital with Amici Wednesday, September 14: Portugal with Bistro 7¼ Sunday, September 25: Chile with Peasant Cookery Wednesday, October 5: Veneto, Italy with Pizzeria Gusto Saturday, October 15: Aussies vs. Kiwis with Craig Guenther Friday, October 21: Argentina with Ben Kramer Sunday, October 30: New Orleans with Café Savour
Test Kitchen Encore Chef Tristan Foucault of the Peasant Cookery shares his version of Spanish Mixed Paella, with perfect wine pairings provided by Banville & Jones’s Wine Experts. See Test Kitchen (p. 55) for the recipe and tasting notes. Cost: $89.99 per person, plus taxes
Taste the luxury as our wine experts open the doors of our Specialties cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 per person, plus taxes
Wine & Cheese
Wine & Cheese pairs some of our favourite wines with a selection of cheeses. Cost: $35.99 per person, plus taxes Friday, October 14: Harvest Time
Tasting on the Terrace
Celebrate summer evenings with our wine tasting on the Tuscan Terrace. Cost: $35.99 per person, plus taxes Thursday, July 7: Staff Picks Thursday, July 21: Cottage Country Friday, August 19: Exotic Blends Friday, September 23: Grape Therapy
Wednesday, June 15
Cooking and Wine Tasting Classes The evening includes exclusive wine pairings, gourmet food tasting with recipes from Winnipeg’s finest chefs, and a Banville & Jones apron for you to take home. Cost: $89.99 per person, plus taxes Wednesday, September 28: Gourmet Pizzas with Pizzeria Gusto Thursday, October 27: Classics with a Twist with Peasant Cookery Thursday, November 10: Easy Apps with Ben Kramer
52 www.banvilleandjones.com
To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE. • Tickets are non-refundable but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event • Events begin at 7:00 pm unless otherwise noted • Check www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on event themes and dates.
banville & jones
Cottage Cases
Order one this week and we will deliver it just in time for your weekend getaway
Cottage Case Red
Cottage Case White
$129.99. Save $8! 12 dry reds Four different wines, three bottles of each
$129.99. Save $8! 12 dry whites Four different wines, three bottles of each
Mixed Case $169.99. Save up to $50 A baker's dozen of dry wines. Three different whites, two bottles each, and three different reds, two bottles of each. Plus one bottle of the award-winning Tolaini al passo!
Banville & Jones Cottage Cases are specially selected by our Sommeliers. Have it delivered anywhere in the city for $10. Available from May Long through to the end of August. www.banvilleandjones.com 53
Corporate Holiday Events • Hors D’Oeuvres Parties • Party Planning • Weddings
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A toast to great relationships. At Ranger Insurance, we believe that the relationships we hold are our greatest asset. We value the ones we have with our staff, our business partners and our communities. Most of all, we cherish the ones we hold with clients like you.
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KITCHEN
“
I have plated this as I would serve it to a party of six people. The seafood is layered on the top of the dish, and perfect for a bottle of white wine. Once you get to the meat and rice at the bottom, open a bottle of red for a second perfect pairing.
“
—Chef Tristan Foucault
Photo by Ian McCausland
Spain’s culinary culture is influenced by its diverse population, as well as its diverse landscape. The Spanish approach to dining is vastly different from our North American patterns: light meals are consumed throughout the day, punctuated by two large meals: la comida, a three-course lunch, is served from 2:00 to 3:00 pm and la cena, a three-course supper, is served at 10:00 pm.
BRINE: Cut the chicken into ten pieces (two pieces per breast, two pieces from each leg and wing). Combine all the ingredients for the brine and bring to a boil to dissolve the salt. After the brine has cooled completely, add the chicken pieces and refrigerate for 8–12 hours.
Paella is a Spanish dish that originated in the Valencia region, where rice dishes are a staple. While the keepers of tradition in Valencia have standardized their paella recipe, a dish with white rice, green beans, meat (rabbit, chicken, or duck), and land snails, this popular dish evolves with each chef’s take on the recipe. Here, Chef Tristan Foucault of the Peasant Cookery, shares his mixed paella, featuring saffron rice, beans, his own homemade chorizo sausage, chicken, and mixed shellfish. This is a meal to linger over with good friends and the wine pairings of the Banville & Jones Sommeliers.
THE MEAL Spanish Mixed Paella 1 whole chicken 12 large prawns 2 pounds mussels 2 pounds Manila clams 6 ounces sliced Spanish chorizo sausage 6 piquillo peppers, thinly sliced 1 cup of thin green beans, blanched Piment d’Esplette (hot Spanish paprika can be substituted) ½ cup chicken stock ¼ cup dry white wine 1 bunch flat leaf parsley Salt and pepper Oil Brine 2 litres water 100 gr kosher salt 50 gr sugar 4 bay leaves 5 sprigs thyme 1 tbsp black peppercorn
Rice 2 cups short-grain Spanish rice 3 finely chopped shallots 1 tbsp minced garlic 1 tsp saffron threads ¼ cup canola oil 1 litre chicken stock Kosher salt
Remove the chicken from the brine and rinse the pieces. Season the chicken with salt, pepper and the piment d’Esplette. Heat oil in a large cast iron pan on mediumhigh heat, and cook the leg pieces skin-side down for around 8 minutes or until the skin is crisp golden brown. Turn the pieces over and cook for another 5 minutes. Transfer the legs to a plate and repeat with the breast pieces. Cook the meat to 150°F and finish it in the oven when the rice is ready. For the rice, heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt. Cook the shallots for 3–4 minutes on low, then add the saffron for an additional 2 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and stir in the rice. Cook for 2 minutes and then add 2½ cups of stock. Bring the stock to a simmer and cook, covered, until almost all the liquid has been absorbed, stirring periodically. Add another ¼ cup of stock and simmer for another 3 minutes. If the rice is not yet tender, add another ¼ cup of stock. When the rice is tender, remove from heat and allow any remaining liquid to absorb into the rice. Lay the rice down in a large oven-safe serving dish. Add half the piquillo peppers and green beans to the rice. Nestle the chicken into the rice and cover with ½ cup of chicken stock. Place in a 400°F oven and bake for 8 minutes. Meanwhile, in another sauté pan, heat oil over medium heat and cook the chorizo. Remove the chorizo from the pan, and cook the shrimp, in the same pan, until firm but opaque. Remove the shrimp and add the clams and the wine to the pan; cover and cook for 2 minutes. Add the mussels to the clams and cook covered for another 2 minutes, or until all the shells have opened. Discard any unopened shells. Arrange the clams, shrimp, mussels, and chorizo on the serving dish atop the rice and chicken. Return the sauté pan to the heat and sauté the other half of the beans and piquillos until they are hot. Garnish the dish with the warmed peppers, green beans, and fresh parsley leaves. www.banvilleandjones.com 55
Photos by Ian McCausland
56 www.banvilleandjones.com
test kitchen: the wines
Alconde 2009 Lo nuestro, Garnacha Rosado Navarra DO, Spain $12.99
Terras Gauda 2009 O Rosal Rías Baixas DO, Spain $32.99
bodegas j.c. conde 2001 neo Ribera del Duero DO, Spain $85.99
Mike: This Rosé pairs nicely with the chorizo, rice, and shrimp. The lo nuestro becomes a more serious wine with this dish. It’s a great match for all parts of the paella, including the clams, mussels and green beans. The acidity is a real standout.
Mike: I can smell lemon butter on the nose. The palate hits a fine balance between unctuous, yet light and fresh at the same time. This pairing is lovely. The smokiness in the dish paired with the smokiness in the wine is stunning. It softens the mussels and clams and brings out a nice oily texture.
Mike: This Tempranillo is vibrant for a 10-year old wine. There is fig and raisin on the nose, with cloves and rosemary. The tannins are still a little grippy, but it is within 2 years of its peak. I was worried about the tannins overpowering the dish, but the meat stands up to them. This wine is even pairing nicely with just the rice, shrimp, and green beans.
Saralyn: This Rosé is the colour of candy and I taste strawberry on the palate. There is a real peppery, spicy note on the finish of the wine. Paired with the mussels and the rice, the Rosé really takes away some of the starchiness. The Rosé becomes more interesting with the spiciness of the dish. Andrea: There is a creaminess to this Rosé—like whipped cream on strawberries. I am also tasting watermelon Jolly Rancher. The beans in this dish really change the structure of the wine. I really liked the chorizo with the Rosé. The flavours of the chorizo push through the wine and make the flavours more complex.
Saralyn: This is a white wine for red wine drinkers—there is weight without being heavy, and it has intense complexity. This is unbelievable with the chicken, shrimp, and sausage. The shellfish takes some of the weight away from the wine and accelerates the acidity. Andrea: Rías Baixas is the most well-known white wine in Spain. There is nice acidity that lifts it up, with almost a floral finish. The weight is surprising. I love this pairing, especially with the mussels in the dish. The pepper strips some of the fruit from the wine, but the pairing also makes the pepper seem a little sweeter.
Saralyn: This wine really elevates the spiciness of the chorizo and the chicken. The earthiness of the wine stands up well to those same flavours in the green beans. The seafood needs the rice behind it to have the guts to stand up to this pairing, but the wine is holding on so nicely throughout this dish. Andrea: The wine has developed many tertiary flavours with age. It brings the shellfish flavours out in the clams and mussels. The beans have an astringency that matches that in the wine, and I think this is the best pairing with the chicken in the dish. The wine really makes the spice pop.
Also try: Viña Ansorena 2009 Viura Chardonnay Navarra DO, Spain $11.99; Cantina Terlano 2009 Alto Adige Terlaner Classico DOC, Italy $19.99; Provenza 2009 Molin Lugana DOC, Italy $25.99; Zinck 2008 Grand Cru Pfersigberg Alsace Grand Cru AC, France $27.99; Tolaini 2006 al passo Toscana IGT, Italy $29.99
www.banvilleandjones.com 57
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sidebar Real men drink Rosé
By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW and bubbly wines by the glass are flanked by a Rosé option. Unlike in our market, it is the white wine that is usually most overlooked. Happily, Rosé is rarely an expensive choice: the whole bottle of Rosé at that next table cost about as much as our two glasses of Cava.
Eating outdoors in Barcelona in late August is like taking dinner into the sauna. However, indoors is usually only marginally less hot, and the street view was worth the heat. We sat down and ordered a couple of glasses of Cava. We thought Spain’s answer to sparkling wine was the perfect choice to cool our palates in the hot city evening.
be baby-blush: an insipid, low-acid, off-dry wine that is set out for the wine newbies at a family reunion. The technique for making a Rosé is fairly standard: take ripe red grapes, crush them, let the skins sit with the juice for a few hours or so, press the skins off and proceed with the pink juice as though you are making a white wine.
As I raised the glass to my lips, I glanced over and saw an even better wine choice. At the next table, a chilled bottle of Spanish rosado— Rosé—was resting in a bucket of ice and water. Condensation clung to the wine glasses that held the chilled Rosé. What surprised my North American gaze, however, was that the diners enjoying the Rosé were men. They looked like a couple of guys who had stopped for a drink and a bite to eat before they left downtown. However, I learned that, in Spain, going for a “cold one” is as likely to lead to a chilled bottle of Rosé, as it is to an ice-cold beer.
The Spanish Garnacha grape variety is a wonderful candidate for the job of Rosé. The grape has good body, loads of strawberry and cherry fruit, and is at home in warm Mediterranean climates. As a red, it contributes punchy alcohol levels to the dark blend of Priorat wines, and, further north, to the French Rhône’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As a Rosé, Garnacha makes a delicious dry wine. The traditional dry Rosé is no tippler for someone without a palate for the real thing—a good dry Rosé can have the refreshing zip and cooling freshness of a white, with enough of the structure, flavour, and tannin of a red.
My experience in that Barcelona restaurant set me on a mission to find out why Spaniards think pink. When I asked why Rosé is such a good choice, the men I encountered looked at me as though I had three heads. Their answer: “Why not?” When I asked our friend Jep, a handsome Spaniard with golden brown hair and a soul patch beard, he explained that it depends on the circumstance. Rosé is only right under the following circumstances: out with friends for a drink before dinner, or with lunch, or with snacks, or barhopping on a nice evening, or—I got the message. Clearly, Rosé is a wine lover’s drink, and it’s the summer choice of smart women and men everywhere.
For many people in the North American market, Rosé is thought to
In almost every Barcelona restaurant, café or tapas bar, the red, white
So here’s to you, thinking pink on a hot afternoon.
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culinary partners Amici Restaurant Executive Chef Patrick Shrupka and his team serve up contemporary Northern Italian cuisine at this elegant Winnipeg dining destination. For over 20 years, Amici has maintained its reputation for culinary excellence: pairing consistently delicious meals with selections from an impressive wine list. 326 Broadway 204.943.4997 529 Wellington 529 Wellington offers Canadian Prime beef, fresh seafood, and impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. The outdoor terrace on the river is one of Winnipeg’s best-kept secrets. You will forget where you are! An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325
Asahi Sushi Bar Amici Restaurant Bistro 1800 at Hilton Suites Winnipeg Airport Bistro 7¼ Blaze Bistro Brass Lantern Brooklyn's Bistro Café Dario Café Savour Cherry Hill Estate Elkhorn Resort
Peasant Cookery Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with expertly prepared dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. The outdoor sidewalk café overlooking Old Market Square will transport you to a European streetscape. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700
Earl’s Restaurant and Bar
Terrace Fifty-Five Food and Wine Fifty-Five mirrors the natural beauty of Assiniboine Park. Vine-covered pergola create an awning over your dining experience on the outdoor terrace overlooking the lawns of the park. With an original menu that is representative of our culture and region, Chef Resch maintains a strong commitment to sustainable and renewable resources. Enjoy Canadian fish, produce, bison, lamb, and grains, beautifully paired with a unique wine list. Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275
Maple Tree Restaurant and Steakhouse
Step’N Out Sur le Boulevard Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. Step’N Out is the ideal destination for your next lunch date, or that perfect night out. 157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837 wasabi sabi Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch onthe-go, or a long lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrees, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3pm – 6pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few. 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878
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Horfrost Hy’s Steakhouse Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood Kelsey’s
Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto Prairie Ink Café Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia Santa Lucia Spuntino Café St. Charles Country Club Sukhothai The Current at Inn at the Forks The News Café The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Wasabi Sabi
shopping list Alconde 2009 Lo Nuestro Garnacha Rosado Navarra DO, Spain $12.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Don Ramon Campo de Borja DO, Spain $11.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Bodegas Ateca 2008 Garnacha de Fuego Calatayud DO, Spain $18.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Bodegas J.C. Conde 2001 Neo Ribera del Duero DO, Spain $85.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Bodegas Olivares 2007 Altos de la Hoya Monastrell Jumilla DO, Spain $16.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Basa Rueda DO, Spain $16.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Viña 105 Cigales DO, Spain $17.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Dehesa Gago Toro DO, Spain $19.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2009 LZ Rioja DOCa, Spain $19.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Campañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 De Matallana Ribera Del Duero DO, Spain $47.99. . . 26 Cantina Terlano 2009 Alto Adige Terlaner Classico DOC, Italy $19.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Casa Silva 2008 Gran Reserva Carménère Los Lingues Colchagua Valley, Chile $19.99. . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Castellblanch nv Extra Brut Cava, Spain $13.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Condado de Haza 2001 Alenza Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa, Spain $81.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Condado de Haza 2007 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa, Spain $25.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Cottage Case Red $129.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Cottage Case White $129.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Cottage Case Mixed $169.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Domaine Félines Jourdan 2009 Picpoul De Pinet Languedoc AC, France $13.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Domino de Eguren 2008 Protocolo Blanco Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain $11.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Donna Laura 2007 Ali Sangiovese di Toscana IGT, Italy $15.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Donna Laura 2007 Alteo Chianti DOCG, Italy $17.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Donna Laura 2007 Bramosia Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy $21.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Guy Fieri BBQ Sauces $6.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Laurel Glen Vineyards 2008 Reds Lodi, U.S.A. $19.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Laurenz V. 2008 Friendly Grüner Veltliner, Austria $19.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Matetic 2006 EQ Syrah San Antonio DO, Chile $29.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Palette Bowls $14.99; $24.99; $34.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Paringa 2009 Vineyard Select Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, South Australia $15.99 . . . . . . . . . . 62 Provenza 2009 Molin Lugana DOC, Italy $25.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Sanviver Lolailo Sangria, Spain $30.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Terras Gauda 2009 O Rosal Rías Baixas DO, Spain $32.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Tinto Pesquera 2008 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa, Spain $28.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Tinto Pesquera 2007 Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa, Spain $42.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Tolaini 2006 al passo Toscana IGT, Italy $29.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21, 57 Tolaini 2006 Valdisanti Toscana IGT, Italy $49.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Tolaini 2006 Picconero Toscana IGT, Italy $139.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 WineTender and Rapid Ice Cooler $49.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Viña Ansorena 2009 Viura Chardonnay Navarra DO, Spain $11.99. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Zinck 2008 Grand Cru Pfersigberg Alsace Grand Cru AC, France $27.99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as availability of product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. www.banvilleandjones.com 61
top picks
Todd Antonation
Rob Stansel
Jill Kwiatkoski
Domaine Félines Jourdan 2009 Picpoul De Pinet Languedoc AC, France $13.99
Matetic 2006 EQ Syrah San Antonio DO, Chile $29.99
Casa Silva 2008 Gran Reserva Carménère Los Lingues Colchagua Valley, Chile $19.99
Abundant in character, this light, refreshing white has a bouquet of white peaches and lavender with an exciting palate of green apples, lemon Pez, and lime sherbet with a persistent finish. It is an excellent match with fresh oysters, mussels, crab, or the hot breeze on your favourite patio. For incredible value, just ask for the Picpoul!
From Chile’s First Lady of biodynamics, Paula Cárdenas, comes this cool-climate, Rhone-style Syrah brimming with meaty, spicy grit and licorice-laced fruit. The Matetic estate is intensively organic—alpacas weed the vineyards in the winter, and red bellflowers blossom amidst the vines. Their EQ Syrah radiates this sense of place, and is a new benchmark for Chile.
Casa Silva does it right with this award-winning wine—a perfect example of Chilean Carménère, with notes of savoury roasted peppers, rich flavours of juicy berries, hints of chocolate, and silky tannins. This velvety juice will capture your heart! Hook me up with a tasty empanada and a glass of this Casa Silva treat, and I’m in Chilean heaven!
Karen Nissen
Scott Berry
Sarah Kenyon
Paringa 2009 Vineyard Select Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir Clarendon, South Australia $15.99
Laurel Glen Vineyards 2008 Redss Lodi, California $19.99
Laurenz V. 2008 Friendly Grüner Veltliner, Austria $19.99
This is a terrific Zinfandel-based blend that lets you know what’s in store the moment you open it. The sweet red berries on the nose are backed up with rich red and blackberry fruit and a little spice on the palate. This full-bodied red has great depth and smooth tannins that make it a wine everyone can enjoy.
Laurenz V. specializes in Grüner Veltliner, and Friendly does not disappoint. This white wine offers minerality, fresh acidity, lime, lemon, and apple flavours. Lively and bright, enjoy it with savoury spring salads, sushi, or on its own. Many would argue that it’s the best Grüner Veltliner they have ever tasted!
Let’s sabre this Perky Paringa Sparkler on the deck this summer! It is so versatile, it makes every appy happy and every cheese pleased. Enjoy white peaches and fresh strawberries on the nose with a slight buttered toast aroma. It is full and creamy on the palate with a lively sparkle. Embrace the bubbles!
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Available exclusively at Banville & Jones Wine Co., Winnipeg www.banvilleandjones.com 63