Atlantic Coast and Cognac Country by Region Poitou-Charentes

Cﾃｴte Atlantique Atlantic Coast La Rochelle Marais poitevin Cognac Country Futuroscope D E SSTTIINNAAT TI OI ON N S POITOU-CHARENTES

Atlantic coast & Cognac country www.visit-poitou-charentes.com

Gems of PoitouCharentes Discover the Atlantic Coast and Cognac Country, the magical Marais Poitevin, the moving images of Futuroscope, and the enchanting port of La Rochelle

La Rochelle ﾃ四e de Rﾃｩ

The Atlantic Coast

Cognac Country

The Marais Poitevin

Futuroscope Poitiers

Gems of First impressions count for a lot and my first visit to Poitou-Charentes as a teenager certainly made an impact. I’d never been to France before and I can clearly remember being bowled over by the region’s beautiful beaches and glorious countryside, the exciting new foods and different way of life. As a travel writer, I’ve been lucky enough to travel all over France - and beyond - in the intervening years, but now, with a family of my own, I still can’t get enough of a region that manages to pack so much history and heritage, nature and scenery into its four departments, or counties – Deux-Sèvres and Vienne, Charente and Charente-Maritime. Take a holiday in Poitou-Charentes and you can be exploring the cultural attractions of Poitiers or La Rochelle one day, and enjoying state-of-the-art imaging attractions at Futuroscope, the next. You can chill out on an Atlantic coast beach or cruise leisurely up the Charente river; go cycling through the vineyards of Cognac Country or pilot a punt through the green waterways of the Marais Poitevin. All in the same holiday. So if you like your countryside rural without being remote; your towns, bustling without being overwhelming, try Poitou-Charentes. It’s different enough to feel like an adventure, but familiar enough to feel like home. And with so much to see and do, there’s always something new to discover. See you there … Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Gillian Thornton Travel writer

edito

Poitou-Charentes

LONDON

PARIS NANTES Loire Chateaux

PoitouCharentes

BORDEAUX

Gems of Poitou-Charentes page

our destinations

La Rochelle - Ile de Ré

4 to 11

Atlantic Coast

12 to 19

Oléron - Royan - Rochefort

Cognac Country

20 to 29

The Marais Poitevin

30 to 35

Futuroscope - Poitiers

36 to 41 page

our passions

Lifestyle & Heritage

42 to 51

Gastronomy - Festivals

Family-friendly

52 to 55

Going Green

56 to 59

Pedal power

60 to 63

Health & Relaxation

64 to 65 page

map

For more information, please visit our website:

www.visit-poitou-charentes.com Gems of Poitou Charentes

4 Destination La Rochelle - Ile de Ré

La Rochelle Historic Atlantic port

La Rochelle – or Little Rock – takes its name from the town’s elevated position above the marshland bordering the Atlantic coast. A quiet fishing village sheltered from the waves by the Ile de Ré, it became an important commercial harbour in the Middle Ages, thanks to the local production of salt and wine.

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oday, the Vieux Port is one of the most photographed harbours on the Atlantic Coast, the entrance guarded by the Tour St Nicholas and the smaller Tour de la Chaîne. A third tower – the Lantern tower – just along the ramparts served as both a lighthouse and a prison, its walls still engraved with countless examples of graffiti. A staunchly Protestant town in the 16th century when the rest of the country was predominantly Catholic, La Rochelle soon earned a reputation as a rebel city. In 1627, after a siege lasting 13 months, the town fell to Royalist troops under Richelieu and had its trading privileges withdrawn. But as commerce developed with Canada and the West Indies, so the prosperity of La Rochelle was restored. Many imposing private mansions and public buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries can be seen today along the quaysides of the old harbour and in the historic streets of the old town.

Pick up a town guide and map from the Tourist Office in the atmospheric Gabut district on the east side of the harbour. Once a collection of old fishermen’s huts, it’s now a cluster of brightly painted clapboard buildings housing small shops and cafés. Visit the three iconic towers, then head through the archway beneath the great clock tower to enter the historic streets of the old town. Here tempting boutiques nestle beneath vaulted stone arcades and between historic buildings such as La Bourse –the Stock Exchange– and the Renaissance Hôtel de Ville, or Town Hall. Look out for the eye-catching merchant’s house, striped in distinctive patterns of local slate, and the galleried façade of the Maison Henri II known as Diane de Poitiers’ house. Bilingual information panels give historical information at key locations.

Ocean influence

ith its brightly coloured pleasure craft and elegant quayside buildings, its iconic watchtowers and on-shore lighthouse, the picturesque Vieux Port is an enchanting spot to while away the hours. But La Rochelle is a town of four very different harbours. With over 4 600 berths between them, the Vieux Port and the harbour of Les Minimes together make up the biggest pleasure boat marina on the Atlantic Coast. The fishing harbour moved from the centre of town to nearby La Pallice in 1993, a port renowned for its smoking and salting facilities, and for its mussels and oyster trade. La Pallice is also home to La Rochelle’s commercial port and the cruise harbour which welcomes more than two dozen liners every year. So many activities here are linked to the sea. Book a lesson at one of the

many sailing schools; take a pleasure cruise to discover the islands and coastline; or test your skills on a sea fishing trip. Explore the biodiversity of the world’s oceans at La Rochelle’s Aquarium on Quai Louis Prunier opposite the Tourist Office. Open 365 days a year with late closing in July and August, it is home to 12,000 marine animals - one of the largest private collections in Europe. Learn their secrets with an audio guide; watch smaller visitors enjoy the child-height trail; and relax over a delicious organic dish in the rooftop café. And to find out more about life on top of the waves, visit the floating Maritime Museum just around the quayside where you can step aboard the former weather ship France 1 and a restored tug boat, St-Gilles.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

6 Destination La Rochelle - Ile de Ré

Fun, festivals and fairs La Rochelle enjoys an enviable climate with bright sunny weather for a large part of the year, but if you’re unlucky enough to hit a damp day, you’ll find plenty of under-cover attractions to entertain you till the clouds pass.

he town boasts an eclectic selection of museums ranging from Protestant history to perfume bottles, automated characters to links with the New World. See collections from every corner of the globe at the newly restored Natural History Museum which covers science, history and the natural world, and enjoy 500 years’ of European paintings at the Fine Arts Museum, housed in the former Bishops’ palace. Equally varied is the town’s programme of special events and festivals. Enjoy music? Then try the Francofolies festival of Frenchlanguage music in July or perhaps the

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October jazz festival. Entertainment buffs can choose from a variety of film festivals including the prestigious International Film Festival in late June and the Summer Theatre Festival in July, which includes classic plays and comedies, street entertainers and dance performances. And in late November, fitness fans can tour the town at their own pace by taking part in the Marathon, 10 km run or 4 km jog. Boat enthusiasts from all over the world head for La Rochelle in mid-September for Le Grand Pavois, Europe’s biggest floating boat show. A shop window for the whole industry, the annual six-day show enables enthusiasts

to see the very latest in boats and equipment, as well as find out about the trends and techniques across a variety of water sports. As the sun sinks over the Atlantic, La Rochelle takes on a whole new dimension as the quayside around the Vieux Port sparkles with lights and reflections shimmer on the water. On summer evenings, the perimeter road is closed to traffic – a great place to stroll and watch the street entertainers. Or head to Rue St-Jean-du-Pérot behind the Chain Tower for a tempting selection of restaurants, many specialising in local fish.

owever you chose to travel, it’s easy to reach La Rochelle. The city airport lies on the outskirts of town and welcomes low cost airlines from a number of British airports. Or take Eurostar from London St-Pancras and pick up a high speed TGV train in Paris – the picturesque ride through the French countryside takes less than three hours and delivers you right to the heart of the action. Motorists can leave their vehicle in the Jean-Moulin car park and simply pick up the shuttle bus to the old town. Once you’re there, getting around couldn’t be simpler. La Rochelle is very foot-friendly with the key sites – ancient and modern – clustered round the picturesque Vieux Port. A regular water bus service links the old harbour with the marina at Les Minimes and an electric boat provides an on-demand ferry link between the

Vieux Port and the Médiatheque, or multimedia library, near the Aquarium. If you like the idea of cycling in the sea air, pick up one of the city’s 350 “Yélos” – a fleet of vélos jaunes or yellow municipal bicycles. Free for the first two hours, they cost just €1 an hour after that. Simply leave your passport or driver’s licence as a deposit and enjoy the freedom to explore 160 km of designated cycle track. Bikes can be collected from the Tourist Office in Place de la Motte Rouge every day between May and September. For total flexibility, ask at the Tourist Office about the Pass Rochelais, a ticket for 2, 3 or 7 days which offers unlimited transport by bus, sea bus, and bike around La Rochelle, as well as discount entry to major tourist attractions. Or take in two contrasting cities with the Pass La Rochelle-Rochefort.

Easy come, easy go

Gems of Poitou Charentes

8 Destination La Rochelle - Ile de Ré

Ile de Ré - The White Island Few visitors to La Rochelle can resist a visit to the enchanting island of Ile de Ré, nicknamed the White Island for the extensive salt marshes that fringe the north-west coast and the whitewashed houses that seem to gleam in the clear light. But be warned – one visit and you’ll be hooked. Even the approach is spectacular – a 3-km toll bridge which soars over the waves in a graceful arc. Travel with your own car or pick up a bus from the railway station in La Rochelle.

ome 30 km in length but measuring only 5 km at the widest point, Ile de Ré is home to just 16,000 permanent residents, but welcomes thousands of holidaymakers every year, attracted by its relaxed outdoor lifestyle, glorious beaches and rich maritime heritage. Visit in summer and you can enjoy swimming, sunbathing and watersports to the full, but stay out-of-season and you see a quieter side of this popular tourist destination. Ride Gems of Poitou Charentes

a horse along empty trails, pilot a sandyacht along deserted beaches, and enjoy a real taste of authentic island life. The island’s ten villages include two that have been awarded the coveted Plus Beaux Villages de France label. Ars-en-Ré is an old salt port famous for its black church spire, used as a landmark by passing shipping, and La Flotte boasts a picturesque harbour and colourful covered market. Wander narrow lanes of whitewashed houses dotted with colourful

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hollyhocks in the summer months; visit galleries and craft shops; and browse market stalls for tasty local produce. La Flotte and the neighbouring small town of St-Martin-de-Ré – largest of the island’s ten communities – lie on the sheltered north coast of the island, whilst the south coast is fringed with wide sandy beaches such as Le Bois-Plage and La Couarde-sur-Mer. And if you like heritage sites, you’ll find a surprisingly varied choice for such a small island.

Environmentally friendly lanes of picturesque villages; or hug the shore and enjoy the changing light that has inspired so many landscape painters. You can learn more about this unique environment – and the importance of protecting it – at a variety of centres throughout the island. Learn about salt production at the Ecomusée du Marais Salant; discover island birdlife at the Maison du Fier, an old salt warehouse ; and find out the secrets of local fishermen, or magayants, at the Maison du Magayant. For a look at how island life has evolved across the centuries, visit the four floors of the Maison du Platin. If you’re walking the ramparts at Saint-Martin, don’t be surprised to see another legacy from the days when salt was the island’s principle industry. In the 19th century, the marshes were worked with the help of Poitou donkeys, a large local breed with shaggy, chocolatebrown hair. To protect the animals’ legs from the salt and insects, their thoughtful owners gave each donkey two pairs of striped trousers, one in front and one behind. Today Les Anes en Culottes – or Donkeys in Trousers – are an important part of the island’s folk history and whilst they no longer work the salt pans, you may still see them posing for visitors on the town ramparts.

ver since the road bridge to Ile de Ré opened in 1988, islanders have gone to great lengths to ensure that the increase in visitors doesn’t damage their fragile natural environment. Now all open spaces are protected, including vineyards and forests, salt marshes and oyster parks. But the Rétais – as local residents are known – are keen for visitors to explore their island home and there are plenty of environmentally friendly ways to do it. Travel around by local bus or, better still, hire a bike from one of the many rental outlets to explore more than 100 km of marked paths and trails. With the highest point a mere 19 metres above sea level, this really is an activity for everyone. Whether you choose to ride a bike, a horse, or just set out on foot, you are guaranteed an ever-changing panorama of coast and countryside. Take a ground-level look at that ethereal road bridge; wind through the quiet

Gems of Poitou Charentes

10 Destination La Rochelle - Ile de Ré

Forts, ramparts and lighthouses

A chain of coastal defences

The coast of Charente-Maritime has been strategically important since the Middle Ages and the shoreline is still dotted with forts, citadels and ramparts, many of them accessible to the public. In the 17th century, Louis XIV’s military engineer Vauban enlarged existing defences and built new ones in order to protect the trading port of La Rochelle and the new arsenal at Rochefort. Soon a line of defences stood guard over the entrance to the Charente river – Fort Vauban at Fouras and Fort Louvois at Bourcefranc-le-Chapus, Fort de la Rade on the Ile d’Aix and Fort Lupin on the banks of the Charente.

The four environmental centres all form part of Les Clés du Patrimoine, an initiative linking the island’s key heritage sites. Simply pick up the free pocket guide, obtain a stamp at each site you visit, and then from the second site onwards, enjoy a discount.

strategic island since the Middle Ages on account of its wealth and proximity to the mainland, Ile de Ré’s fortifications date from the 15th century. But it was in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV that its fortresses and ramparts were significantly strengthened and enlarged by his military engineer Vauban. Visit the redoute at Rivedoux-Plage near the road bridge to the mainland; tour the fort of La Prée on the north coast, oldest fort on the island; and stroll the atmospheric ruins of the Abbaye des Châteliers, a 12th century Cistercian abbey whose remaining walls constitute the oldest religious site on the island. The star-shaped ramparts encircling SaintMartin-de-Ré will fire the imagination of adult history lovers and younger visitors too, whilst the bustling harbour – fortified Gems of Poitou Charentes

and improved by Vauban – is a great place to relax with its tempting small shops and café terraces. Don’t leave Saint-Martin without climbing the bell tower for a seagull’s eye view. Open until 23.30 in July and August – sunset the rest of the year – the panorama is particularly spectacular at night when the quaysides come alive with twinkling lights. There’s something for all ages too at the Phare des Baleines or Lighthouse of the Whales, perched on the northern tip of the island. The original tower was built in 1682 and is the second oldest lighthouse in France after Cordouan in the Gironde estuary, whilst the adjacent Grand Phare, built in 1854, offers unrivalled views from the circular platform. If you can’t face the 257 steps, stay at ground level to explore the exhibition.

Other fortifications include the imposing citadel at St-Martin-de-Ré, which is still in use today, and the town’s star-shaped ramparts. Vauban also remodelled the modest fishing harbour into a port capable of taking military ships, and today St-Martin is one of 12 key Vauban sites awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO. Further fortification work continued well into the 19th century, one of the most impressive examples being Fort Boyard, a stone fortress between Ile d’Aix and Ile d’Oléron that rises out of the waves like a stone ship. Begun under Napoleon I and finished in 1857 under Napoleon III, it eventually became a prison and is now best known as the location for a world famous television game show. See Fort Boyard from the lofty ramparts of the citadel in Le Château-d’Oléron or from the deck of a passing cruise boat. Back on the mainland, the salt marshes behind the coastal town of Brouage led to its success as a salt port. Visit the 17th century citadel, the historic Victuals Hall, and the birthplace of Samuel de Champlain, founder of Québec in 1608.

A taste of the island

Despite living on an island, the Rétais have traditionally been traders rather than fishermen, exporting wine and salt all over Europe. But in the late 19th century, both industries suffered their own disasters, phylloxera destroying the vineyards and bad weather and competitive products damaging the salt trade.

Today both activities have been successfully revived and, whilst less important than they once were, still help maintain the island’s traditional way of life. “White gold” is again being harvested from the salt pans and vineyards are producing wine, cognac, and the delicious Pineau aperitif, a blend of grape juice and cognac.

You’ll even find ice cream flavoured with potato on the quayside at Saint-Martin, as well as caramel ices made with Fleur de Sel, and even oyster-flavoured ice cream, though you can of course choose something more conventional. Oysters are now an important island export, matured in converted salt pans.

ou’ll find all these products and more at outlets throughout the island, but nowhere more colourful than the daily food market at La Flotte-en-Ré. Look out for Fleur de Sel table salt, Rétais wines, and an abundance of fresh produce including local new potatoes with an AOC quality label.

Ta s t e Te m p t a t i o ns

Don’t even try to resist caramel toffees, sweets and ice cream made with local butter and sea salt or fleur de sel.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

12 Destination Atlantic Coast

The Atlantic Coast Rochefort Fit for a king Tucked inside a loop of the Charente river, Rochefort was little more than a fishing village until 1666 when France’s flamboyant “Sun King” – Louis XIV – ordered his minister Colbert to build him a dockyard and arsenal to rival the best in Europe.

ome 20 km from the coast, Rochefort offered a safe, sheltered harbour, and today, visitors can step back in time through a host of atmospheric sites, which bring the technology and toil of this 17th century industrial centre vividly to life. Key to Rochefort’s maritime heritage is the Corderie Royale – or Royal Rope Factory – a classically elegant building which was the longest factory in Europe when it opened in 1669. Bales of hemp arrived by boat and the fibres were refined, spun and twisted wist into nto 200-metre ropes for the he rigging. r g.

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Rope makers worked here for almost two hundred years, the building eventually becoming a naval school and archives until it closed in 1926. But thanks to a major restoration programme begun in the 1970s, the Corderie Royale has a new lease of life and now includes a fascinating museum where you can watch demonstrations, learn about ropemaking techniq techniques and even have a go yourself. Visit the Musée de laa Marine M inside the Hôtel de Cheusses, once homee to naval captains. Stroll the Jardin des Retours, rs to see exotic plants brought plan rougght back b by naturalists al returning from fro m naval naval expeditions. xpeditio

"Des embruns dans les bulles" exhibition Sea spray in bubbles A temporary exhibition in the Centre International de la Mer. A wonderful sea route treated like a travel journal. A tour of maritime heritage through a selection of comic book authors. You will be immersed in 6 scenes typical of a sea voyage: the quays, the departure, the ship, the open sea, the coast, and the tavern and revisit the maritime experiences of storms, on-board manoeuvres, meals, hierarchy, etc. Revisit the maritime worlds of four centuries of life at sea.

City of surprises The town of Rochefort flourished alongside the construction of the great naval dockyard and today its straight streets are lined with fine stone houses – the stylish homes of wealthy merchants and seafarers.

n fact Rochefort is packed with surprises. See the rare collections of the Ecole de Médecine Navale, founded in 1722 to train surgeons for duty on warships. Many of the 19th century doctors involved in scientific journeys of discovery also studied here.

See recreations of old shops at the Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois; visit the Hôtel Hèbre de Saint-Clément for the lowdown on local art and history; and wander the Begonia Greenhouse to enjoy more than 1500 colourful varieties. First discovered on an expedition from Rochefort, the flower was named after Michel Bégon, responsible for overseeing the town’s development in the 17th century. Just as Rochefort was a major departure point for explorers, scientists and naturalists across the centuries, so today is it a gateway to the wider area. Take a boat up the picturesque Charente river or head out to sea on a cruise around Fort Boyard and Ile d’Aix. Explore the nature reserves around the estuary or head to the nearby seaside resort of Fouras.

The world of Jacques Demy in Rochefort Shown at the French Cinémathèque in 2013, the touring version of this Parisian exhibition devoted to the enchanted world of Jacques Demy will be on display at the Musée Hèbre de Saint-Clément from the 1st of March to the 31st of August 2014. In 1966, the town provided the backdrop for the filming of the musical comedy “The Young Girls of Rochefort” by Jacques Demy, the director from Nantes, and starring Catherine Deneuve and Gene Kelly. The exhibition covers 300m², and contains 6 thematic and chronological sequences in the world of Jacques Demy: original works, drawings, sketches, paintings, notebooks, objects, photographs, costumes, archive documents and reproductions, 26 graphic panels with texts in French and English, an audiovisual route with film excerpts and documentary images...the centuries, so today is it a gateway to the wider area. Take a boat up the picturesque Charente river or head out

to sea on a cruise around Fort Boyard and Ile d’Aix. Explore the nature reserves around the estuary or head to the nearby seaside resort of Fouras.

Hermione frigate

The Hermione, the Freedom's frigate Here in the 21st century, preparations are coming to an end for the sea trials of the Hermione, the frigate of liberty that in 1780 had the young Marquis de La Fayette on board. After its first outings on the Charente river in 2012, in autumn 2014 it will sail down the river as far as the estuary to the harbour of Ile d’Aix and will try some manoeuvres at sea. It will return to its home port a few days later for the final touches before setting off on its symbolic voyage towards the United States of America and its journey filled with emotions all along the east coast of the USA scheduled for spring 2015. Make the most of its presence in Rochefort to visit the shipbuilding workshops, to admire the masts and rigging, and to go inside the heart of the Hermione accompanied by a guide. Gems of Poitou Charentes

14 Destination Atlantic Coast

Island life

Back to nature on the

Ile d’Oléron France’s second largest island after Corsica, the Ile Il d’Oléron d’Olé lies li just j across the water from the mouth of the Seudre river, tantalisingly close yet offering a whole new world just waiting to be explored. A world dominated by water and nature.

inked to the mainland by a toll-free road bridge, the Ile d’Oléron is a great place for a family holiday, with a huge range of watersports and beach activities to suit all ages and abilities. Here you can learn a new skill or perfect an old one, get active or chill out on one of 25 glorious sandy beaches.

The east coast offers safe bathing in familyfriendly waters, whilst adrenalin seekers will relish the challenging waves that crash onto the beaches of the west coast such as the magnificent Grande Plage. Here 9 km Gems of Poitou Charentes

of open sands are backed by the forests of Saint-Trojan-les-Bains. Watersports on offer include diving and sailing, windsurfing, jet skiing and kitesurfing, but if you’d rather keep dry, try horse riding or cycling. Just ask at the local tourist office about companies offering equipment hire and expert tuition. The Ile d’Oléron has always been strategically important to sea travellers, friendly and unfriendly. Climb the Phare de Chassiron lighthouse near Saint-Denis d’Oléron, a vital

landmark for ships passing the northern tip of the island, and visit the ramparts and museum at the citadel of Le Chateau-d’Oléron, which once kept watch over the approach to Rochefort. Nature conservation and the environment are integral parts of island life today – find out more at the Marais aux Oiseaux bird reserve and the Port des Salines, where sea salt has been harvested for centuries. And you won’t travel far on the island either without encountering its most famous export, oysters.

The Oysters of Marennes-Oléron The oyster-farming region of the Marennes-Oléron basin is a unique landscape spanning both the Ile d’Oléron and the mainland around the Seudre estuary. Some 60,000 tons of oysters are sold from here every year – around 45 per cent of the total french production.

iewed from the air, the rectangular ponds of the oyster parks form neat rows, bisected by the irregular lines of tidal channels. At ground level, the creeks are lined with the brightly painted cabins of the oyster farmers. Marennes-Oléron produces four varieties of oysters, two of which have been awarded the coveted Red Label quality mark for their unique flavour, achieved through a process of double-refinement. Oysters are grown from tiny larva, or seed, in open water, before being fattened up in shallow basins on shore which are filled with mineral-rich water by the rising tide. Nourished by microscopic algae which give them their characteristic green colour, the oysters are left to mature and acquire their distinctive flavour. Whether you love eating oysters or are just intrigued by this gourmet delicacy, you’ll be fascinated by a guided tour of an oyster farm

such as Fort Royer near Boyardville on the north coast of Ile d’Oléron. For a complete picture of the local industry, visit the interactive Cité de l’Huître at Marennes on the mainland. For a different view of the oyster beds, take a ride on the Train des Mouettes, built in 1891 and the oldest steam locomotive still in service in France. Classified as a historic monument, it runs for 21 km along the Seudre estuary from La Tremblade to Saujon. The waters surrounding the Marennes-Oléron oysters parks are also rich in fish and shellfish, including sea bass and sole, turbot, lobster and langoustines. Visit the fishing harbour at La Cotinière on the south coast of Ile d’Oléron, renowned for its trade in crevettes, or prawns. Watch the colourful boats return with the daily catch, browse the fish market, and then if hunger beckons, settle down at a quayside restaurant to enjoy succulent fish fresh from the sea – delicious! Gems of Poitou Charentes

16 Destination Atlantic Coast

Small islands big on nature

Ile d’Aix

Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron may be the biggest islands off the coast of Poitou-Charentes, but they aren’t the only ones. If you really want to get away from it all, take a trip to their two smaller neighbours.

Ile

Madame

mallest of the island quartet is the enchanting Ile Madame, reached by the Passe aux Bœufs, or Cattle Causeway, at low tide from Port-des-Barques. Locals come here to collect shellfish – their harvest strictly controlled to avoid over-fishing – whilst holidaymakers come to walk, relax or study the myriad of wild flowers that carpet the island’s 65-hectare surface. For an overview of island activity, drop into La Ferme Aquacole to find out all about local fish farming and agriculture. Just keep an eye on the tide if you’re planning to walk back!

Ile d'

Aix

ust 3 km long and 600 m at its widest point, the Ile d’Aix can only be reached by boat from the Pointe de Fouras, near Rochefort. Fewer than 200 people live on this traffic-free island, so a relaxed lifestyle and unspoilt environment are guaranteed. Hire a bike, take a tour in a horse-drawn carriage, or simply set off on foot to enjoy the coastal landscapes and stunning views. Napoleon Bonaparte spent his last days on French soil here in July 1815 and today you can visit the house where he decided to

surrender to the English. Tour the surprising collections of the African Museum amassed by Baron Napoleon Gourgaud in the early 20th century and visit the Mother of Pearl House – La Maison de la Nacre – to discover the island’s only craft industry. But the real appeal of the Ile d’Aix is the chance to get back to nature. Leave the boat at the jetty, pass through the fortified gateway and as you cross the drawbridge, you immediately put the hustle and bustle of the 21st century far behind you.

Ile d'Aix

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Beach breaks in, on and beside the sea Everyone has their own idea of the perfect beach – and the perfect beach holiday – and with so much delightful coastline to choose from, it’s not surprising that the Atlantic Coast of Poitou-Charentes has been attracting holidaymakers for almost 150 years.

esorts were first established in the mid-19th century as wealthy holidaymakers from the cities explored further afield by train, discovering the area’s clean sandy beaches and charming small towns. Today their extravagant Belle Epoque villas still dot the bays and headlands at resorts like Royan and St-Palais-sur-Mer, tangible reminders of a bygone age when elegant ladies strolled the seafront in flowing skirts and wide-brimmed hats.

The style of dress may be more casual nowadays but the Côte de Beauté is more popular than ever, not just for its clean, safe beaches but also for the wide choice of accommodation, entertainment, and outdoor activities, whether you’re planning a seaside break with the children or something a bit more intimate. The variety of beaches and watersports is endless, so you can be as active or passive as you choose. Just ask at any local tourist office for details of qualified teachers and hire centres.

Never tried kite-surfing or water-skiing? Want to go sailing or diving? Well, now’s your chance. With instruction available to suit all ages and abilities, everyone can have a go. And when you feel like stepping down a gear, simply relax and enjoy the big skies, endless beaches and magnificent seascapes of some of Europe’s finest coastline. Stroll or cycle through protected natural habitats; chill out on the sands; and just slip into a different, less hurried pace of life.

Resorts for all

very seaside resort in PoitouCharentes has its own unique atmosphere and as none of them are very far apart, it’s easy to visit both mainland and island beaches in one relaxing holiday. Royan and neighbouring St-Georges-deDidonne have both been granted the FamilyPlus label for their level of facilities, welcome and safety, but many families also come back year after year to Châtelaillon-Plage, Fouras and Saint-Palais-sur-Mer, hooked on their friendly atmosphere and varied entertainment options. They’re great for couples too. It’s easy to find a quiet corner to yourself, especially outside the main holiday season, and as the sun goes

down, you can relax in a cosy bistro, enjoy a gastronomic restaurant, or try your luck at one of the area’s casinos. The golden sands of Châtelaillon-Plage, close to La Rochelle, are fringed with 19th century seaside villas, that give the town a delightful period feel, yet you’ll find every modern amenity. Just down the road lies Fouras, a charming small town at the entrance to the Charente river. The beach is dominated by the solid Vauban fortress which was once an important lookout point for the Royal Arsenal at Rochefort, but Fouras reinvented itself as a “Belle Epoque” seaside resort in the

19th century and has continued to delight visitors ever since. Further south still, stylish Saint-Palais-surMer seamlessly blends old and new around a quiet, sheltered bay nestled between Royan and the Côte Sauvage. For a picturesque coastal walk, follow the historic Chemin des Douaniers or Customs’ Path, which was once patrolled by 18th century coastguards. And don’t forget the wide choice of beaches on the four islands that lie just offshore. Choose from calm bays with safe bathing for children or rolling surf guaranteed to challenge any lover of white water sports. Gems of Poitou Charentes

18 Destination Atlantic Coast

Royan

- resort that rose from the ashes

Strategically placed at the mouth of the mighty Gironde estuary, Royan has been a favourite holiday spot since 1875. Wealthy tourists arrived by train from Paris and Bordeaux and “Belle Epoque” villas soon sprang up along the shoreline.

any of these elegant properties were lost in the bombing raids of 1945, but in the 1950s, Royan was dramatically rebuilt to showcase the very latest in town planning and urban construction. More than half a century later, it’s a beguiling mix of flamboyant 19th century buildings and post-war minimalist design, the largest resort on the Atlantic coast between La Baule and Biarritz. But the one thing that hasn’t changed is the emphasis on providing high quality facilities for every kind of holidaymaker. Whether you want to have fun on the sands with the children or get active over a round of golf, try your luck at the casino or spend a day out on the water, Royan can offer it, with the added bonus of 2,600 hours of sunshine a year. Take a self-guided audio-tour to discover the different styles of architecture; visit the bustling food stalls beneath the dome of the covered market; or take a cruise into the Gironde estuary. With five sandy bays – most of them southfacing – Royan can justly claim to provide a beach to suit everybody, all in the heart of the town. Enjoy a dip from Foncillon beach, just opposite the Palais des Congrès, or relax on the

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vast golden arc of the Grande Conche, dotted with blue-and-white striped beach tents and just 300 m from the main railway station. Something more secluded perhaps? Then try

Pigeonnier beach and the Conche du Chay near the Casino. Or for a real flavour of “Belle Epoque” Royan, head for chic Pontaillac beach and just make like a movie-star.

Explore the Gironde estuary

oyan is a great base for exploring the eastern shore of the Gironde estuary. Go west to enjoy the resort of St-Palais-sur-Mer, the well-stocked zoo

at La Palmyre – one of Europe’s largest – and the scented forests of the Arvert Peninsula. Planted during the 19th century to stabilise the sand dunes, the forest of La Coubre today covers 10,000 hectares on the peninsula – around 24,700 acres. A haven for walkers and cyclists, this protected natural area is fringed with the sand dunes of the Côte Sauvage or Wild Coast. The La Coubre lighthouse at La Tremblade was built 2.5 km from the coast in 1905 but now stands on the shoreline at the southern tip of the peninsula. If you’re feeling energetic, you can climb 300 steps to the viewing platform for a spectacular panorama over coast and countryside. For a different coastal perspective, head up the 301 steps that lead to the top of the Cordouan lighthouse in the mouth of the

Gironde estuary. France’s oldest lighthouse, it is built on a rocky island 11 km offshore from Royan, and is only accessible to visitors by boat at low tide. Head eastwards from Royan to visit the fishing village of Meschers-sur-Gironde. Here the shoreline is dotted with carrelets – square fishing nets that are lowered into the water from fishermen’s huts on stilts. Take a guided tour of the cave houses hollowed into the cliffs and listen to stirring stories of seafaring folk, some good, others not quite so good! Just up the estuary from Meschers stands Talmont-sur-Gironde, classified amongst France’s Most Beautiful Villages for its windswept Romanesque church and narrow streets of whitewashed houses and craft workshops.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

20 Destination Cognac Country

Drink responsibly

Cognac The scent of special weekends Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Situated on the banks of the Charente river, Cognac has a long history as a commercial centre. When Francis I was born here in the 15th century, the town as already an important trading port for salt, as well as the centre of the local wine industry.

ines were heated to make “brandewijn” – or burnt wine – so they would travel better to England, Flanders and Scandinavia, where they were diluted with water. But it was the introduction of double distillation in the early 17th century which really put the town – and the product – on the international map. Eau-de-vie was traditionally stored in oak barrels and one day, a delay in loading the boats left the barrels on the quayside. Far from affecting the quality of the product, the liquid was found to have improved with age and could even be drunk undiluted.

to its prestige product. Walk beneath Porte Saint-Jacques, gateway from the river in the Middle Ages. Flanked by twin round towers, it leads to the Château des Valois, birthplace of François I in 1494 and home today to Maison Otard cognac. See the rose window and Romanesque facade of Saint-Léger church; browse the fresh produce in the wrought iron covered market; and watch the world go by from a café terrace in Place François 1. The perfect spot to savour a glass of the amber nectar.

Local merchants quickly expanded their international market and by the 19th century, cognac was being widely exported in bottles. A major industry had been born. Stroll the streets of Cognac today for the full ful flavour of a town which has dedicated flavo cat itself

Know your Cognac

he authentic taste of cognac comes from a combination of many things – a gentle climate, the influence of the Atlantic ocean, and a rich variety of soils. The AOC certification that ensures quality product from a specific area was granted in 1936 and today 5,600 vineyards cover an area of 75,000 hectares (185,000 acres), making the vineyards of the Charente and CharenteMaritime departments the largest single vineyard in Europe for white grapes, most of them used in the production of cognac. More than 17,000 people work to produce and market the 170 million bottles that are sold every year in more than 160 countries

throughout the world, and with almost 95 per cent of production being exported to the United States, Asia and Europe, cognac is a real economic force representing 1.2 billion euros a year. The AOC vineyards are split into six areas or crus – Grande-Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires – each one with clearly defined characteristics. Today, these names are sought after by connoisseurs throughout the world, not just as an after dinner drink, but also as an ingredient for pre-dinner cocktails which have introduced cognac to a new type of consumer. Cognac is produced by blending several wines, each with its own flavour, bouquet and ability to age. This highly skilled job is carried out by the Cellar Master in the large cognac houses or by individual distillers, and the blends then left to age in oak casks where they gradually improve, developing their distinctive amber colour and bouquet. Blends are named according to the minimum age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the mix. For example, VS (Very Special) must be at least two years old; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) Reserve is at least four years old; and XO (Extra Old) at least six.

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Delicious as an aperitif or with dessert, Pineau des Charentes comes in light and dark varieties.

You may also hear people talking about “La Part des Anges” or the angels’ share. This refers to the microscopic fungus caused by the evaporation of alcohol which blackens the stone walls of the town’s cellars and warehouses – a sure giveaway of any illicit distillation! But Cognac Country isn’t only about one drink. Try Pineau de Charentes, an AOC liqueur wine made from three parts grape juice to one part cognac. Drunk chilled as an aperitif or dessert wine, it is also served inside a juicy Charentais melon as a refreshing starter to a meal. Choose from dry Pineau blanc and the fruitier Pineau rosé. And don’t forget the Vins de Pays Charentais either – delicious with fish and light dishes. Gems of Poitou Charentes

22 Destination Cognac Country

Meet the experts

good starting place for any firsttime visitor to Cognac is the Espace Découverte en Pays du cognac

situated by the ancient ramparts near the river. This modern interpretation centre enables visitors to discover the natural and architectural heritage of Cognac and the surrounding countryside through 3-D models, interactive screens and a multi-sensory show. Entrance is free and all displays are in French and English. The glass-fronted building next door is home to the Musée des Arts du Cognac, a unique museum dedicated to Cognac-related crafts. Here visitors can discover the story of the great human, industrial and commercial adventure connected to the “liqueur of the

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gods”, which marries ancient traditions with modern technology. Each stage in production is covered from vine-growing and barrel-making to blending, bottling and packaging, from the 16th century to the present day. Texts and audiovisuals are bilingual, and enthusiasts can purchase a special Cognac Passport which gives discounts on tours of cognac houses, as well as their museum ticket. Many world-famous names have their headquarters in Cognac, its river banks and adjacent streets lined with warehouses and production facilities – Martell, Hennessy, and Camus, Remy Martin, Otard, Meukow and more. Each house produces a unique product, fashioned by a combination of soil, sun and cellar master’s skill, which they are happy to explain to visitors. Take a guided tour of the production facilities and warehouses to find out the secrets of cognac from the experts, finishing with a tasting of course. Some houses also offer specialist tours that include visits to their estates and personalised tours with lunch. Nearby Jarnac is another cognac town, home to the prestige houses of Courvoisier, Hine and Royer. For a very different experience,

head out into the vineyards to visit some of the smaller producers, many of them family businesses for generations. Most welcome visitors all year round, though it’s best to call ahead for an appointment. Cognac is a convivial drink to be enjoyed with friends and you’ll find major events organised during the summer months. In mid-June for example, during Cognac Week, restaurants, bars and cellars all over the region offer tastings of both cognac and cognac-based cocktails. And in December and January, there are special events and festivals to celebrate the alchemy of distillation.

Explore the Cognac Trails The countryside around Cognac may be largely covered in vineyards, but there’s a surprising variety in the landscape. One of the best ways to explore Cognac Country and learn more about the product, is by following one of the colourcoded Cognac Trails – Les Etapes du Cognac – which start in the town and are clearly signposted for drivers.

he five themed routes each link winegrowers and craftsmen, hoteliers, and activity providers who are passionate about promoting their area to outsiders. Every member signs a quality charter and is subject to inspection by professionals to ensure that every visitor receives a personal welcome. Longest trail is Les Traditions – the Traditions Trail – which starts in the hills north of Cognac and wends its way south through the town towards Jonzac, Montguyon and Montendre. Along the way, find out about Man’s involvement in the world of Cognac. Go east to follow Le Fleuve – the River Route – which hugs the Charente through Jarnac towards Angoulême. Explore quiet

villages and imagine an age when the river was busy with commercial traffic. Or take La Vigne – the Vine Route – which winds northeast through Rouillac in the heart of the Cognac appellation. South-east of Cognac, La Pierre – or Stone Trail – meanders over chalky hills past GalloRoman remains, Romanesque churches and winegrowers’ chateaux, through Segonzac to Blanzac-Porcheresse. The fifth trail, La Pierre et L’Estuaire – Stone and Estuary – is quite different from the others, heading south-west across country through Pons to the vineyards bordering the Gironde estuary. Pick up the free guide to the Cognac Trails from any local tourist office, who will be happy to help plan your trip.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

24 Destination Cognac Country

Angoulême, the paper capitall Perched on a hillside above the Charente river, Angoulême became the “Capital of paper” in the Middle Ages when dozens of mills lined the river banks. Angoulême is also widely regarded as the “Capital of the image” and more especially, the comic strip. Bandes dessinées – known in France as BD – have long held a special place in French culture for both adults and children, and Angoulême’s annual festival attracts authors, illustrators and enthusiasts from all over the world. But visitors can enjoy the art form at any time of year.

Circuit des Remparts Circuit des remparts - Ph : Francois BAUDIN

treet names are contained within speech bubbles and twenty walls all over the town have been decorated in comic strip style by a veritable Who’s Who of famous French cartoonists. Pick up the annotated map from the tourist office to discover them all. Highlights include the “Girl on the ramparts”, a study in blue on the city walls behind the covered market, and an actors’ view of the audience painted behind the stage door of the town’s theatre. The map also details three self-guided itineraries that cover the heart of the town, the area within the ramparts, and the district bordering the river. A very foot-friendly city, Angoulême combines medieval buildings with elegant town houses built in the 18th and 19th century by wealthy paper mill owners. Discover the industry at the Paper Museum, housed in the former Le Nil cigarette paper Gems of

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plant, just across the river from the new Comic Strip Museum. You can also visit one remaining paper mill, the Moulin du Verger in Puymoyen which still produces paper from linen and cotton, and makes luxury paper by traditional techniques. Not to be missed are the Romanesque cathedral of Saint-Peter with its intricately sculpted façade and, behind it, the town museum with its collections of local archaeological finds, African and Oceanic arts, and fine arts. The nearby terrace beneath the statue of President Sadi Carnot on the ramparts offers panoramic views across the surrounding countryside. Head up the broad avenue leading away from the statue to see the old chateau of the Counts of Angoulême, transformed into an imposing town hall in 1858 by Paul Abadie, designer of the Sacré-Cœur at Montmartre in Paris.

A celebration of the comic strip

o tour of Angoulême would be complete without a visit to the Musée de la Bande Dessinée, opened in June 2009 in an old wine warehouse on the banks of the Charente. The museum’s unique collection includes more than 8,000 original drawings, and exhibits are changed three times a year, partly for conservation reasons and partly to offer new delights to returning visitors. The collection is split into four themed areas, that start with a historic journey through the history of the comic strip from 1833 to the present day, including international characters like Astérix and Tintin, Mutt &Jeff and Peanuts. Tour the design workshop to discover different techniques for cartoon production and explore the esthetics of comic strips through original plates, before enjoying the latest temporary exhibition. Enthusiasts will be overwhelmed by the choice of titles available in the museum’s extensive bookshop, alongside posters and post cards, DVDs and other essential memorabilia. The Museum is part of the Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l’Image, which is devoted to the creation, conservation and transmission of this important cultural heritage. Spread through three sites across town, the organisation hosts authors, researchers and other comic strip enthusiasts from across the world for a varied programme of events. Gems of Poitou Charentes

26 Destination Cognac Country

Explore Saintes centuries of history Built in the 1st century AD on the banks of the Charente river, the town of Saintes – then Mediolanum Santonum – was the Gallo-Roman capital of Aquitaine, strategically placed between Lyon and the Atlantic. Two thousand years later, it retains some outstanding Roman remains, as well as buildings from the Middle Ages and prestigious Renaissance town houses built of gleaming white limestone.

he town’s development and prosperity was linked for centuries to the commercial opportunities provided by the Charente. Today, Saintes is a starting point for river cruises and a popular stopping place for self-drive boats. Glide peacefully into town by water and on the right bank, the magnificent Germanicus Arch dominates the jetty with its twin arches and intricate carvings. Built by the Romans at the entrance to a road bridge across the Charente, it was moved to its present site in the 19th century.

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On the other side of the river, set in a natural hollow, the Roman amphitheatre could seat 15,000 spectators – the entire population of the town – for an array of violent gladiatorial games. In the summer months, the substantial ruins still provide an atmospheric stage for concerts and festivals. In the Middle Ages, Saintes became an important religious centre with many large monasteries and convents. Don’t miss the crypt belonging to the priory of Saint-Eutrope, hewn from solid rock and a stopping place for

pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela, or the prestigious Abbaye aux Dames with its carved Romanesque portal. Saintes has a number of archaeological and fine art museums, as well as some more unexpected attractions. Located amongst classical buildings in a 10-hectare park, the Haras National – or National Stud, showcases the region’s two native breeds of horse, the Trait Poitevin draught horse and the Poitou donkey. A great place for all the family.

A unique

Romanesque heritage

hen the tomb of St James was discovered in the 9th century in northern Spain, pilgrims flocked to the site at Santiago de Compostela from all corners of Europe. Four routes crossed France, the Via Turonensis from Paris heading into what is now the Poitou-Charentes region through Poitiers, Saint-Jean-d’Angély, Melle, Aulnay, Saintes and Pons. Churches and chapels grew up along the routes in an age of religious fervour and today these elegant Romanesque buildings are an iconic part of the regional landscape with their pure shapes and clean lines.

Lines of cupolas represented the heavens and their heavily sculpted facades – easily carved in the soft local limestone – told biblical stories on a grand scale. Pilgrims still walk the Compostela trails – awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO – but you don’t have to be a pilgrim or even religious to enjoy these glorious buildings which rise up in major towns and in small villages, beside rivers and within vineyards. The church of Saint-Pierre, for example, in Aulnay-de-Saintonge is an outstanding example of Romanesque architecture that lies on the Compostela trail. Look out for carvings of the farming year and signs of the Zodiac

as well as vices, virtues and scenes from the Apocalypse. Take in Saint-Michel-d’Entraygues, built on an octagonal plan; the cathedral of SaintPierre in Angoulême with its superb sculpted façade; and the church of Sainte-Radegonde in Talmont with its dramatic location on the Gironde estuary. Every church is different and everyone has their favourite, large or small. Explore the Poitou-Charentes countryside and it won’t be long before you find yours.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

28 Destination Cognac Country

The Charente Valley King Henri IV once described the Charente river as “the most beautiful stream in France” and some four hundred years later, many people still agree with him. Between Angoulême and the Atlantic, the Charente winds its way gently through rolling fields covered in vineyards, past ancient water mills, sleepy villages, and glorious Romanesque churches.

ts tranquil waters flow through Cognac, a name synonymous with the world’s finest brandy, and through Saintes with its rich architectural heritage dating from the Romans. Closer to the sea, the Charente glides through Rochefort, developed under Louis XIV as a major naval port and arsenal, before finally joining the ocean. Along every kilometre of this picturesque waterway, there’s a different story to discover. For centuries, the Charente was busy with commercial barges – or gabarres – that

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carried salt, brandy and stone to the coast and many of today’s quiet villages bustled with passing trade. The commercial barges may be long gone, but the river still has an important role to play in leisure tourism. Whether you choose to cruise the waterway, cycle the towpath, or drive the nearby country lanes, you are guaranteed an unforgettable experience, the chance to unwind in beautiful countryside that is gloriously rural and unspoilt, without being remote.

Relax on the water ut if you’d rather play admiral, you can hire your own self-driver cruiser from a number of bases along the river with boats suitable for everyone from couples to families. Enjoy anything for a weekend afloat to a fortnight – no experience necessary, no licence required and full training given.

This is the perfect holiday for anyone who wants to step down a gear, enjoy a slower pace of life, and get close to nature. Watch the water fowl and wildlife from the deck; stop off to explore pretty riverside villages; and browse local markets for picnic fare with a regional flavour.

Some 360 kilometres in length (around 225 miles), the Charente is navigable downstream from Angoulême to Rochefort, a distance of around 171 km – just over 100 miles. Between Angoulême and TonnayCharente, the river is in public ownership, its course controlled by 21 locks. Head up river from the coast and it’s tidal as far as SaintSavinien or sometimes Chaniers. All locks are worked by hand, so there are no worries about opening hours or specific passage times.

Take your bicycles on board to explore further afield or cycle the towpath, and don’t forget your fishing rods either – the river is rich in fish, including trout, pike and perch. The perfect complement to that fresh market produce! For an even gentler excursion that’s completely eco-friendly, hire one of the distinctive Bateaux Rouges in Angoulême. Totally silent, these electric boats are the perfect way to get close to nature.

Océan Atlantique

Ri v

To find out more about the river and its history, take a trip in a cruise boat from Jarnac, Cognac or Saintes, or perhaps a tour in a traditional flat-bottomed gabarre, and just sit back and enjoy the commentary.

Rochefort Ro

arente Ch

Saint-Savinien S x Port d’Envaux Saintes S Jarnac Chaniers

Angoulême

Cognac Bassac

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30 Destination Marais Poitevin

The

Marais Poitevin

Welcome to the “Green Venice” Second largest wetland in France after the Camargue, the Interregional Nature Park of the Marais Poitevin lies on the northern fringes of Poitou-Charentes, a magical marshland that is as compelling on crisp winter days as it is beneath the warm summer sun. Here residents adapt to the rhythm of the seasons, their lifestyle governed by the waterways that divide the land. If you enjoy nature, soft adventure and a gentle pace of life, you’ll love the Marais Poitevin, which stretches from the Bay de l’Aiguillon in the west to the town of Niort in the east, from Esnandes in the south to Luçon in the north. An easy drive from the port of La Rochelle, it’s a great place for a day trip as well as a longer stay. Gems of

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Permanent exhibition in the Donjon de Niort : showcasing the history of the Donjon, the Château and the town of Niort with a special focus on the medieval period and the Ancien Régime, English version available on smartphone.

plit into three distinct zones, the fenland is shared between three departments or counties, CharenteMaritime and Deux-Sèvres in the PoitouCharentes region and Vendée in Pays de la Loire. It’s also split into three zones – the Wet Marsh, the Dry Marsh and the Baie de l’Aiguillon – each with its own distinct personality. Many first-time visitors are surprised by the variety of the landscape which has been created, shaped and maintained by water across the centuries. Recently classified amongst the Grands Sites de France, today the Marais Poitevin is known as “Green Venice” for its verdant countryside and the colour of its canals, but the story goes back some 10,000 years when this whole area was covered by sea. As the water gradually receded, so Neolithic Man moved in. By the Middle Ages, the marshes were being drained and abbeys built on plots protected from flooding by dykes. But work came to a halt during the Hundred Years War with England and the French Religious Wars, waterways silting up and channels choked with vegetation.

Not until the 17th century did reclamation work begin again, when Henry IV called in Dutch engineers, and further improvements were made in the 19th century under Napoleon 1. Discover the full story at the four Maisons du Parc in Esnandes, Chailléles-Marais, Nieul-sur-l’Autise and Coulon, each centre covering a different facet of the reserve.

The Wet Marsh “Marais mouillé”

ention the Marais Poitevin and most people picture the area known as the Marais Mouillé, or Wet Marsh, where cows graze shady pastures bisected by tree-lined waterways. A section of this vast natural reservoir can be found along the northern fringe of the marsh between Luçon and Fontenay-le-Comte, but the main area borders the Sèvre-Niortaise river between Niort and the Baie de l’Aiguillon. Stop off at Niort to discover the keep, the covered market, and the Agesci Museum, home to both a natural history museum and an art gallery. Then just follow the river to enter another, greener world were Man has worked with his environment since early times. Reclamation of the marshes really began with the medieval monks and today their imposing Romanesque abbeys still tower over the surrounding pastures. Don’t miss the majestic ruins of Maillezais, built in 1003, nor Nieulsur-l’Autize, a rare surviving example of a complete abbey complex. Stop off at waterside villages where every house has its own mooring. A traditional flat-bottomed punt, propelled by a wooden pole, is one of the best ways to explore the marshland and you’ll find boats for hire in all major villages. Enjoy the freedom of the

Ta s t e Te m p t a t i o n s

The distinctive green Angelica liqueur - or ‘Herb of Angels’ – is famous for its digestive properties.

canals with a self-guided excursion, or take a private or group tour with an expert guide – unforgettable at any time of day, but especially at dawn and dusk. Coulon is one of the oldest communities, occupied since Neolithic times and now home to the Maison du Marais Poitevin. Enjoy an insight into local life through a combination of guided visit, atmospheric film, and exhibitions covering everything from boat-building to eel-fishing. Look out too for the village church with its unusual covered pulpit on the outside. Nearby Arçais was an important trading centre in the 17th century and has retained many typical houses along its main street. Stop off too in Saint-Hilaire-la-Palud where the bird reserve of Les Oiseaux du Marais Poitevin is the perfect place for families to discover local wildlife together. Heading west along the river, Marans lies at the crossroads with the Marais Desséché or Dry Marsh. A strategic river port since the Middle Ages, it still offers berths for almost 200 pleasure boats. Don’t miss the views from the church tower topped with glass and a futuristic aluminium spire. Gems of Poitou Charentes

32 Destination The Marais Poitevin

The Dry Marsh “Marais desséché” Marans lies at the heart of the Dry Marsh, an agricultural plain bisected from east to west by the Sèvre-Niortaise river. Protected from the Atlantic floods by a ring of dykes, the wide open countryside – used for cattle breeding and cereal growing – is criss-crossed by canals that control the water level with a system of dams and sluice gates.

n the 18th century, Marans was linked to La Rochelle by a canal built to transport animal hides, which were imported from Quebec and treated at workshops along the Sèvre. Walk the towpath today to see the period houses of wealthy merchants and ship owners.

Find out about the different landscapes of the Marais Poitevin at the peaceful nature reserve in Nalliers-Mouzeuil and visit the bird reserve of Saint-Denis-du-Payré which welcomes more than 120 species every year, many of them seasonal visitors. A 17th century farmhouse at Chaillé-les-Marais is home to the Maison du Petit Poitou, a nature

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centre where visitors can learn about local life, costumes, and fishing, and even meet some native Poitou donkeys with their shaggy, chocolate-brown hair. On the northern edge of the marshes, Fontenayle-Comte boasts some elegant Renaissance architecture as well as buildings dating from the Middle Ages. Gateway to the Vendée and the Pays de la Loire region, the town’s treasures include the Château de Terre-Neuve, Notre Dame church and its Romanesque crypt, and the Quatre Tias fountain.

La Baie de l’Aiguillon mussel country The Sèvre-Niortaise meanders its way through the marshes to join the sea at the Baie de l’Aiguillon, an almost circular bay that indents the coastline north of La Rochelle.

ramatically different from the two inland landscapes of the Marais Poitevin, the bay is nevertheless an integral part of the whole eco-system with an undeveloped seashore belonging to fishermen and birds. Here the shore is a combination of rich mud banks – exposed twice a day at low tide – and salt meadows grazed by sheep. Ducks and geese feed on the meadow plants whilst wading birds

sift the shallows for shellfish. The bird reserve at Pointe d’Arçay includes a mix of habitats, the headland planted with conifers to preserve the fragile environment – guided visits only.

meets the sea. The road runs out amongst a cluster of tractors, trailers and small boats – a bustling scene as fishermen return from the bay.

Aiguillon Bay is renowned for the quality of its mussels, which are farmed on lines of vertical poles or bouchots in the rich Atlantic waters – visit the Maison de la Mytiliculture at Esnandes to find out more. Then stop off at Port du Pavé near Charron where the river

Look out too for wooden fishing cabins perched high above the shallows on stilts, each one equipped with a large square net or carrelet which can be lowered at high tide – an iconic scene here and elsewhere on the PoitouCharentes coast.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

34 Destination The Marais Poitevin

A precious environment

he flora, fauna and landscape of the Marais Poitevin is carefully protected and supervised to maintain the delicate balance of nature. Without this human intervention, the smaller waterways would quickly become clogged up, causing adjacent pastures to join together into larger fields. So every year, more trees are planted and protected, meadows restored and waterways cleared by the expert staff of the InterRegional Nature Park. Small wooden bridges have been installed to facilitate the movement of cattle too, although you may still be lucky

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enough to see animals being ferried to their pastures by cattle boat. Every winter, the Marais Mouillé becomes saturated for anything from a few days to several weeks as seasonal rains flood the landscape and transform Green Venice into the “Marais Blanc” or White Marsh. To the local boatman, this wide, watery wilderness is a very special place, a welcome opportunity to enjoy a different perspective on the usual patchwork of pastures and canals. As well as explaining the history and formation of the Marais, the four Maisons du Parc help

visitors understand the importance of looking after it – not just for the people who live there and those who visit, but also for the abundant wildlife that uses the marshland as a permanent or temporary home. Keep your eyes and ears open in the Marais Mouillé for instance and you may spot deer hiding in the vegetation or hear the piercing cry of a kingfisher. Take your binoculars to the coast and you can see different species throughout the year in the habitats bordering the Baie de l’Aiguillon. Magical moments for any nature lover.

Out and about However you chose to explore the Marais Poitevin, you can’t help but step down a gear and relax, whether you’re enjoying a family holiday or a romantic short break, a summer stopover or an out-of-season stay. With so many trails and towpaths just waiting to be explored, you hardly need the car.

here are bike hire centres all over the marsh and with no hills to climb, cycling is an activity that can be enjoyed by the whole family, whether you choose a traditional bike or opt for a powerassisted electric version. Discover quiet villages and follow off-road tracks that are well marked with both destinations and distances, so you can’t go far wrong. Another delightful way to explore is on horseback. Not only can you enjoy an elevated view, but many wild creatures are less disturbed by horses than by humans, giving you a better chance for a close-up look. Or simply explore on foot – all you need is some sturdy, comfortable footwear to enjoy the freedom of the marshland trails. Whatever your budget and taste in accommodation, you can find it here, from eco-friendly campsites to charming small hotels, stylish guest houses to spacious family gîtes. You’ll also find your hosts more than happy to pass on their local knowledge and help you discover their beloved marshland. Floating market at Le Vanneau, last weekend of July.

All this fresh air works up an appetite and if you want to sample regional dishes, choose a fricassee of eels (bouilliture) or try local snails (cagouilles), farci poitevin (a stuffing made from diced vegetables and pork), or frogs’ legs with parsley, perhaps accompanied by mojettes or small white beans. Traditional local dessert is the tourteau fromager, a soft cake made with cheese, perhaps followed with a glass of green Angelica liqueur. A real taste of the Marais! Gems of Poitou Charentes

36 Destination Futuroscope - Poitiers

© Futuroscope_Creation/Fotolia/Studio Ludo/S LAVAL/Robothespian - © Engineered Arts Limited 2012 - D LAMING, Architecte - M Vimenet - Toutain- Chorégraphies : Mourad Merzouki - CCN Créteil et du Valde-Marne/Compagnie Käfig.

Futuroscope A different kind of leisure park experience nce One of the best loved leisure parks in France and the only one of its kind in europe. Situated on the outskirts of Poitiers, Futuroscope has been synonymous with moving image technology since it first opened its gates in June 1987. Since then, it has welcomed more than 40 million visitors, making it the second largest leisure park in France. Futuroscope is the ideal place to relax in, with 60 hectares of tranquil green countryside and 25 original experiences you won’t find anywhere else: films in giant format, thrill-filled attractions, 3D rides with 4D effects, games, live shows, open-air activities, and more…. The spectacular theatres inside Futuroscope are gigantic sculptures and their futuristic lines blend in smoothly with the surrounding landscape.

ut Futuroscope is dramatically different from other theme parks, its attractions based on the senses and in particular, on our sense of vision. With giant screens, dynamic cinema shows, and innovative interactive experiences, this is a park that appeals to everyone. And as only a handful of attractions have height restrictions, the whole family can share in the experience – and the holiday memories. Just 90 minutes from London by air and 80 minutes from Paris by TGV, Futuroscope is Gems of

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easily reached by shuttle bus from Poitiers. A car park is available at Futuroscope and, with a wide range of hotel accommodation just a ten-minute walk from the main entrance, it’s a place to linger, relax and enjoy to the absolute max. The park is open from 15 February 2014 until 4 January 2015 from 10am until nightfall, closing time varying with the season : futuroscope.com. But Futuroscope is far more than just a fun place to visit on holiday. Hundreds of school groups from all over Europe come to the park every year on educational visits linked

to their curriculum. Topics covered include everything from science and geography to history and the arts, plus there’s the unique opportunity to understand and analyse the images themselves. All visitors are given a map of the park which contains all the information needed to plan your day, including a performance schedule, details of cafes and restaurants, and start time for the spectacular evening show. You can find the map at the ”translation headsets” desk, on the right hand side after the main entrance.

Great new attractions for 2014

Fun whilst you learn

The time machine,

an incredible journey back in time with the raving rabbits. Futuroscope has cranked up this attraction with a unique blend of art and technology to bring visitors an all-out intensive immersive experience. The moving platform and polarized glasses take the audience through 4 historical scenes, each bursting with thrill after thrill against backdrops that merge with 3D computer-generates images and are boosted by 4D effects and immersing them in a key moment from History.

Finding out about the world around us has never been more fun than at Futuroscope. Take Hubble Mission. This 3D adventure propels young audiences out to the Hubble Space Telescope to join the crew of the space shuttle Atlantis on a high-stakes repair mission. Their aim is to keep Hubble observing. This rescue operation takes visitors on a journey to explore nebulae, galaxies, and stars, and to unveil the mysteries of the univers (Imax® 3D film shown on a 6,240 ft² screen). Other perennial favourites include Journey into the Dark, where a blind guide leads you along a route cloaked in darkness so you can smell, listen and touch your way through a Louisiana bayou, vibrant New York and even the highest Himalayan peak and Dynamic Vienne, a high octane 4D journey through the countryside around Futuroscope. Look on in wonder at the all-new, eye-dazzling, Vegas-style magic show! The tricks and action keep on coming in an ethereal atmosphere. The Imagic show has been voted the best major majic show 2012/2013 in France. Stay with the oceans to travel back through time to the Cretaceous period in Sea Monsters, a thrilling 3D experience. And don’t miss Le Petit Prince , a new adaptation of Saint-Exupéry’s story of The Little Prince.

4D Adventure wins ‘Outstanding Achievement’ award The excitement of Futuroscope’s 25th anniversary year in 2012 finished with a prestigious THEA award for its blockbuster attraction Arthur, the 4D Adventure, which is projected on a vast IMAX dome. Directed by Luc Besson – director of The Fifth Element, Leon and The Big Blue – the film follows the adventures of a small boy called Arthur in the make-believe world of the Minimoys.

Arthur, the 4D Adventure is the first attraction in France to win their coveted award in the ‘Best Attractions’ category.

Dances with Robots has been one of the A mind blowing experience Designed by Aerophile in association with DVVD architects (who built the support frame) the Aerobar lifts twelve lucky guests 115 foot in the air with drink (and snack) in hand to have twelve minutes of spectacular views over the Park. This is an entirely unusual experience in the foodtainment mould and can be enjoyed with family and friends. Feet dangling from the airship – you will not have drunk a glass of champagne from this position ever!

park’s star attractions for a number of years. Now this popular thrill ride gets a new club beat for 2013 with a series of brand new dance routines to remixes from DJ Martin Solveig. Watch whilst ten robot arms 23ft high pick up their passengers and whirl and plunge to the music – fun for spectators as well as for the riders! “The Robothespian” who welcomes you inside the attraction has been created by the British Company “Engineered Arts”.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

Destination Futuroscope - Poitiers

Chilling out

uturoscope’s indoor imaging experiences make the park into a yearround attraction the weather can’t spoil, but there are plenty of outdoor areas where you can relax in the fresh air and take in the array of eye-catching buildings. Buy your lunch or dinner from a range of competitively priced takeaways, or try one of the six themed restaurants. Taste with your family the molecular cuisine at "le Cristal restaurant" near the lakeside during the summer....

Younger visitors will love Children’s World, a safe outdoor play area with more than 20 fun activities that can be enjoyed independently or shared with the family. Ride on water bikes or drive an electric car round a road circuit.

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Play a giant outdoor xylophone, ride the zip line, or have fun on the climbing frames. Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a panoramic view of the park, as well as the unusual buildings of the adjacent science and technology park, from the revolving platform of the Gyrotour. Then as night falls, take your seat in the open air stand around the lake for Lady O, the brand new evening show sends you spinning into a world of dream and make-believe to end the day in a glorious extravaganza as art and technology combine to bring this groundbreaking evening spectacular bursting up from one of the largest water stages in Europe. A magical night-time experience you will never forget….

Notre-Dame church during the Polychromies light show

Poitiers Historic town with a contemporary edge

Women of the past (in english)

Regional capital of PoitouCharentes, Poitiers has a distinguished pedigree that spans over 2000 years of history and embraces more than eighty classified monuments. Encircled by the Clain and the Boivre rivers, its historic centre is a network of pedestrian streets and discovery trails dotted with quiet gardens and vibrant squares.

ut Poitiers isn’t only proud of its past. One of the first university towns in Europe – established in 1431 – it is home to more than 25,000 students, who together make up around a quarter of the city’s population. So alongside its ancient buildings and rich history is a vibrant contemporary cultural life that includes theatre productions and dance festivals, concerts and street arts throughout the year. Affectionately known as the “town of one hundred steeples”, Poitiers boasts some of the finest Romanesque monuments in Poitou-Charentes, an area blessed with an abundance of architecture from the 11th

and 12th centuries. Most famous of all is the church of Notre-Dame-la-Grande with its elaborately sculpted façade, lit in a rainbow of colours on summer evenings to recreate the original hues of the painted statues. The historic core of the city is easy to explore on foot with three self-guided routes – the Notre-Dame Trails – all starting at the church. Explore independently or join one of the regular guided tours. But don’t leave the city without a visit to nearby Futuroscope, the widely acclaimed family theme park. The park is just half an hour by bus from the SNCF railway station. Gems of Poitou Charentes

40 Destination Futuroscope - Poitiers

Explore on foot Poitiers is a particularly easy city to explore on foot, not just because its historic core is contained on the hillside above the Clain river, but because its self-guided walking trails are all colour-coded. Simply follow the painted lines on the pavement from Notre Dame church to gain three alternative perspectives on this multi-layered city.

ead off along the blue line to explore the eastern side of the rocky promontory towards the Clain. Once the town’s main east-west thoroughfare, the Grande Rue is lined with timber-framed properties, elegant town houses, and independent boutiques. Take in the Palais de Justice, former palace of the Counts of Poitou; the Gothic splendour of St Peter’s Cathedral; Gems of Poitou Charentes

and the early Christian baptistery of St John. Explore the north-west district of the promontory along the yellow line which winds its way steeply between narrow facades, inner courtyards and half-hidden gardens. See elaborate town houses built by wealthy local families; the charming church of Saint-Germain, now used as an auditorium; and the ancient Benedictine abbey of SaintJean-de-Montierneuf. And meander along the red route through the central pedestrian streets and out towards the remains of the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre, to explore the “plateau” of the promontory. See the 19th century town hall; the striking red brick and stone building of the prefecture, or regional council; and the church of Saint-Hilaire-leGrand, stopping off point for pilgrims on route to Santiago de Compostela. Poitiers is justifiably proud of its parks and gardens. Visit the riverside garden of Petite Villette, just off the yellow route, and the nearby Jardin des Plantes, a botanical garden featuring aromatic, medicinal and market garden plants, as well as flower beds and rare trees.

audio-guided tours (in english)

Ta s t e Te m p t a t i o ns

Browse the bakeries for sweet specialities such as gooey macaroons, crisp broyé butter biscuits, and soft tourteau fromager cheesecake.

Blossac Park, designed by the king’s intendant in the 18th century, incorporates a variety of horticultural styles, whilst La Roseraie flower park showcases nearly 400 varieties of roses alongside trees and shrubs.

City break heaven Whatever you look for in a city break destination, you’ll find it in Poitiers, a town that effortlessly combines past, present and future with a list of attractions starting in Roman times and stretching far beyond the present day with the high tech attractions of Futuroscope.

mong the town’s main cultural attractions is Sainte-Croix Museum with its important collections of archaeological exhibits, fine art and contemporary arts. On the outskirts of the city, visit the Chez Manuel Arts & Crafts Museum to discover everyday objects from the 19th century to the present day and La Maison d’Autrefois – the Museum of Yesteryear – to see nine themed rooms. With accommodation to suit all budgets and an endless choice of bars, cafes and restaurants, Poitiers caters for all tastes. The culinary heritage of Poitou is based on hearty country fare that includes lamb and goat, river fish, eels and crayfish, often accompanied by cabbage or white beans – simple, slow-cooked food that is packed with goodness and flavour. If you want to combine sightseeing with a little retail therapy, you’ll find major high

street retailers in the city centre’s brand new pedestrian zone, as well as in the Ilot des Cordeliers shopping arcade which includes 30 shops on two levels. For something a little different, wander down Grand Rue where the retailers include second-hand bookshops and antique dealers, art galleries, a candle factory, and even an umbrella shop. The colourful stalls in the covered market of Notre Dame are open between 6am and 1pm Tuesday to Saturday, with an extra openair market on Saturdays and a flea market on Friday mornings. With a weekly farmers’ market, a secondhand book fair twice a month, and a popular annual Christmas market, Poitiers really does have all retail interests covered. And with a programme of cultural events and festivals throughout the year, there is always something different to enjoy.

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42 Lifestyle & Heritage

Gems of

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Love the lifestyle

Video

A holiday in Poitou-Charentes isn’t just an opportunity to take a break from your own daily routine, it’s the chance to become involved in a different way of life, whether you chose to stay in a lively city or a quiet village, beside the sea or deep in the country. Or perhaps combine them all.

hatever your budget, you’ll find representatives from all the major French hotel chains across the region, covering country inns to city centre and chateaux hotels. You’ll also come across some names you may not recognise. Esprit de Poitou-Charentes, for instance, is an association of individual hotels combining character properties with exceptional levels of comfort and service. Or sample the hospitality of a chambres d’hôtes – private homes with up to five rooms for bed and breakfast guests. Every property is different so you could stay in an elegant town house one night, a rural farm the next, or perhaps play lord of the manor at a historic chateau with all the comforts of home and a lot more beside. Some hosts also offer evening meals on reservation – a great chance to pool your language skills in a convivial atmosphere.

A holiday in a self-catering gîte offers the freedom to browse the local markets for food to cook in or let someone else do the cooking on a tour of local restaurants. With no other guests to consider, it can be the perfect solution for families with young children, as well as couples in search of a cosy bolthole to wind down in after a day spent walking, cycling or sightseeing. Or try something completely different by booking into a yurt – a very different kind of canvas holiday – or maybe a wooden cabin high in the trees with a rope ladder for access. Explore the lanes in the compact comfort of a horse-drawn caravan or glide lazily along the Charente river in a full-equipped motor cruiser. Whichever style of accommodation you choose, it’s the starting point to discovering a very special region. Gems of Poitou Charentes

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Fantastic flavours Consumers today are becoming increasingly concerned about ‘food miles’, the distance travelled by a food product from producer to plate. But eat out in Poitou-Charentes and you can enjoy maximum flavour and freshness with minimal impact on the environment. Few areas can offer such a wide variety of local ingredients covering all tastes and culinary occasions. Simple or sophisticated, the region’s cuisine is based on quality produce sourced from the rich waters of the Atlantic and the fertile fields of the mainland. Just browse the stalls at any local market for a snapshot of what’s on offer. Stalls are piled high with colourful fruit and vegetables, just bursting with sunshine and flavour, as well as fish, meat and game from the surrounding area. Poitou-Charentes can even provide its own range of delicious drinks to complement the flavours of its food, whether you want a soft drink for younger visitors and drivers, or something a little stronger. The region is world-famous as the home of cognac, but the AOC wines of HautPoitou are the perfect accompaniment to everyday meals, with vintages

in red, white and rosé, and the region’s many orchards are the source of delicious farm-fresh fruit juices. A typical Poitou-Charentes meal could start with an aperitif of apple or grape juice, a cocktail spiced up with a dash of cognac, or perhaps some chilled Pineau des Charentes, a subtle blend of grape juice and cognac. Popular appetisers include juicy Charentais melons, hollowed out and filled with Pineau, and of course the region’s supreme seafood - green oysters from Marennes-Oléron, mussels from the Ile de Ré and the Baie de l’Aiguillon, and platters piled high with mixed shellfish. All kinds of fish are landed daily at harbours such as La Cotinière on the Ile d’Oléron, shrimp capital of the region, as well as Royan and Gems of

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La Rochelle on the mainland. If you fancy something a bit different, try a traditional plate of marsh eel from the Marais Poitevin, grilled, marinated or slow-cooked in a casserole. But Poitou cuisine isn’t only about fish. Tempt your tastebuds with succulent lamb, tender beef, or a dish of seasonal game. To go with them, choose tiny new potatoes from the Ile de Ré, sprinkled with fleur de sel sea salt and perhaps a knob of creamy butter that carries the AOC quality label – Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. AOC status has also been awarded to the Chabichou du Poitou, an essential component of any regional cheese board. This full-flavour cheese is just one of several goats’ cheeses produced in the area, but you’ll find other varieties made from cows’ and sheep’s milk too. Leave room for a dessert though, because Poitou-Charentes is home to scrumptious traditional recipes such as broyé du Poitou, a sweet butter biscuit decorated with sliced almonds, and tourteau fromager, a soft cake set in a crisp pastry crust. Made with fresh goat’s cheese, it’s easy to spot with its ‘burnt’ domed top. And to finish off? A glass of cognac or angelica liqueur, of course. Santé!

Gems of Poitou Charentes

Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Lifestyle & Heritage

Small towns big character The main towns of Poitou-Charentes all have their individual attractions, but you can discover all kinds of hidden gems by strolling the historic streets of its smaller communities too. Look out for the labels Villes et Pays d’Art et d’Histoire and Petites Cités de Caractère which assure visitors of a rich cultural heritage and a warm, friendly welcome.

Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The Most Beautiful Villages in France) Whenever you spot the sign for Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, get ready to stop. You’ll find six of these unique communities in Poitou-Charentes, each one proud to protect its heritage and lifestyle. In Charente, you’ll find Aubeterre-sur-Dronne with its vast monolithic underground church and the Church of Saint-Jacques. In Charente-Maritime, there’s the small harbour of Mornac-sur-Seudre, famous for its hollyhocks, oyster farming and salt; the fishing and pleasure harbour of La Flotte with its 19th century quay and quiet streets; Ars-en-Ré, home to salt workers and a black-and-white bell tower; and Talmont-sur-Gironde with its white facades, blue shutters and the magnificent clifftop church of Sainte-Radegonde. In Vienne, you’ll find the ruins of an 11th century chateau at Angles-sur-l’Anglin, as well as a Magdalenian frieze sculpted 15,000 years ago.

Villes et Pays d’Art et d’Histoire (Art and History Towns and Areas) From prehistory to the 21st century, the places labelled Villes et Pays ys d’Art et d’Histoire all work hard to present their remarkable historic and aarchitectural heritage in the best possible light. Throughout the year youu can ca enjoy guided tours, exhibitions, and vibrant events in the towns of Rochefort, Saintes,, Poitiers, Po Cognac, Royan and Thouars, as well as in the broader areas around Angoulême, Confolens, nfo Melle, Parthenay, Montmorillon, Mon and Châtellerault, and on the Ile de Ré.

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Melle

Petites Cités de Caractère (Small Towns of Character) Poitou-Charentes is dotted with little gems that are guaranteed to enchant visitors. And whatever time of year you visit, you’ll receive a warm welcome from these relaxing communities labelled Small Towns of Character. Aubeterre-sur-Dronne

Aubeterre-sur-Dronne At the gateway to the Périgord, this charming village overlooks the Dronne river and boasts the largest underground cave church in Europe (the monolithic church of St. Jean).

Villebois-Lavalette On the boundaries of Charente and at the gateway to the Périgord, Villebois-Lavalette is a charming village perched on a hilltop. Protected by its imposing medieval château, the centre enchants visitors with its 17th-century markets and typical narrow streets.

Airvault

Airvault Airvault stands out for its rich medieval heritage: 10th-century abbey, church of St. Pierre, ruins of the château, medieval bridges, but also its 19th-century covered markets that are still in use today.

Arçais Located at the heart of the Marais Poitevin, Arçais can be explored along its network of navigable man-made canals constructed in the 19th century, its small private ports and traditional Maraîchin houses.

Oiron

La Mothe-Saint-Héray

A small wine-making town, Oiron is famous for its Renaissance château which houses a collection of contemporary art. Works of art are also on display in public spaces and can be enjoyed while you walk through the town’s streets.

The town follows the flow of the Sèvre Niortaise river that gives it all its charm, narrow streets in washhouses, bridges in gardens along the riverbank.

Melle

Saint-Loup-sur-Thouet

A Roman city on the Pilgrim’s Way with three noteworthy buildings, including the church of St. Hilaire, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Melle has surprises in store for visitors.

Charming village on the banks of the Thouet, whose main road leads to the 17th-century château and possesses beautiful half-timbered houses.

Saint-Savinien Winding around a meander of the Charente river at the foot of a limestone cliff, in Saint-Savinien-sur-Charente you can walk through its quays, gardens and narrow streets to gain a better understanding of its history that is so closely tied to river trade.

Celles-sur-Belle This former stop on the Way of St. James is famous for the majestic architecture of its 17th-century royal abbey and the church’s noteworthy Romanesque doorway.

Celles-sur-Belle

9 villages are in the process of accreditation: In Charente: Bourg-Charente, Nanteuil-en-Vallée, Tusson et Verteuil-sur-Charente In Charente-Maritime: Saint-Sauvant In Deux-Sèvres: Coulon and Mauléon In Vienne: Charroux and Monts-sur-Guesnes Gems of Poitou Charentes

48 Lifestyle & Heritage

World-class heritage Around the year 1000, pilgrims from all over Europe began flocking to Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, following the discovery of the tomb of St James. Many of them set out from Paris, their journey passing through Poitou-Charentes along two alternative routes.

ix buildings that lie on the main route have been included by UNESCO in its World Heritage Site list – the churches of St Hilaire in Poitiers and Melle, St Peter’s in Aulnay, the royal abbey of Saint-Jean d’Angély, St Eutrope’s church in Saintes, and the hospital in Pons. On the secondary route, pilgrims also stopped in Parthenay and Niort, Charroux, Angloulême and Aubeterre. One thousand years later, their beautiful Romanesque churches and chapels are still attracting visitors – not just modern day pilgrims en route to Spain, but anyone who appreciates the spirituality and architecture of these ancient buildings. Also classified by UNESCO are the murals inside the abbey church of Saint-Savin-surGartempe, widely considered the finest set of Romanesque murals in France, if not the Western world. Painted on the vaulting of the nave are stirring scenes from the Old and New Testaments, from Genesis and Exodus, whilst the Galilee porch is decorated with episodes from the Apocalypse. Discover the secrets of the murals and the history of this thousand-year-old abbey at your own pace with the help of an audio guide and through video displays presented in the old monks’ cells.

Saint-Savin

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Melle

La Roche-Courbon

Cool castles and magnificent mansions

f you love architecture, interiors or simply nosing about other people’s properties, you’ll find plenty of châteaux to explore and enjoy throughout the region. Step back into the 17th century at La Roche Courbon in Saint-Porchaire, a fortified chateau transformed into a classical residence by the young Marquis Jean-Louis de Courbon. Take a guided tour through the furnished interior, stroll through the formal gardens, and walk the trails of the ancient forest. Follow in the footsteps of our own Black Prince who stayed in Roumazières-Loubert at Château de Peyras, remarkable for its roof beams in the shape of an upturned boat. Or discover life under Napoleon at the Château de Rochebrune in Etagnac, home in the 19th century to one of his generals and still owned by his family.

Touffou

The Château d’Oiron near Loudun was built in the 16th century to house the collection of paintings and collectables belonging to Claude Gouffier, equerry to Henri II. Today, the 16th century painted gallery is the atmospheric setting for contemporary works inspired by Renaissance curio cabinets. The Château de Touffou at Bonnes is based on two defensive keeps built in the 12th century, but three hundred years later, the towers were joined together and the building gradually enlarged to form a magnificent Renaissance home. Highlights today include the magnificent decorated bedroom where Francois I slept; the old kitchens; and perfumed rose garden. And if you just can’t get enough of lavish interiors, enjoy an expert guided tour through twenty beautiful rooms inside the Château d’Epanvilliers at Brux, home to the Marquis of Tryon-Montalembert in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Oiron

Rochebrune

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Festival fever Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing quite like a festival to get you under the skin of an area and PoitouCharentes has a full programme throughout the year.

Gems of

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Cognac Blues Passions

There are events to suit all tastes including music and dancing, theatre, sports and gastronomy, and you can expect a few fireworks too, especially on July 14th, the French national holiday to celebrate Bastille Day. Having fun is a serious business in France and you’ll find spectators of all generations intent on having a good time. All you have to do is join in.

usic lovers can enjoy a spring jazz festival in Châtellerault, for instance, or a classical music festival in Melle. In summer, take in a Musical Thursday performance at Romanesque churches around Royan, listen to the Francofolies festival in La Rochelle, or enjoy the international festival of world songs and music in Confolens. Prefer a touch of drama or history? Then book up for a summer theatre production at one of many historic sites throughout the coastal department of Charente-Maritime. And don’t forget the regional capital, Poitiers, with its impressive new theatre and concert hall. There are plenty of sports events and outdoor activities to enjoy too. Citizens of Angoulême

flock to the city centre in late September for the Circuit des Remparts – a weekend of vintage car races around a rampart circuit. Take part in a festival of themed walks and cycle tours round the Marais Poitevin or dream of life on the ocean at Le Grand Pavois international boat show in La Rochelle. There’s a whole programme of activities too around cognac, the region’s iconic drink. In mid July, the town of Cognac stages four days of non-stop fun with the Fête du Cognac or try one of the numerous arts events, tastings and exhibitions which go on throughout the summer all over the vine-growing area. Dates and details are usually available from spring onwards – just ask at any local Tourist Office or see www.visit-poitou-charentes.com.

Nuits Romanes 2014, celebrating its 10th birthday! The Poitou-Charentes region is filled with fabulous Romanesque churches and other historic sites to explore. The Nuits Romanes festival organised by the Poitou-Charentes Region, allows you to see these marvellous buildings in a new light, often quite literally, when over 160 evenings of concerts and shows throughout the summer are based in and around them. They are all free. In 2013, with 127,000 spectators who visited throughout the summer, the 9th edition was tremendously successful. 2014 celebrates the 10th birthday of the festival! Nuits Romanes à Ardin

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52 Family-friendly

Family-friendly

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The multi-media experiences of Futuroscope pull in visitors fromall over Europe, but Poitou-Charentes offers a host of other familyfriendly attractions, many of which feature animals.

hatever your favourite animal, you’ll almost certainly find it at La Palmyre Zoo, 10 km from Royan, where visitors can follow a 4km trail to see 1600 wild creatures including big cats and elephants, orang-utans and ostriches. La Palmyre has an ongoing breeding and conservation programme, as has the Vallée des Singes, or Monkey Valley, at Romagne between Poitiers and Angoulême. Thirty species ranging from pygmy marmosets to macaques, gibbons to gorillas live happily here on small islands in a wooded park.

Take a walk through Zoodyssée in the Chizé forest at Villiers-en-Bois, home to a broad Gems of Poitou Charentes

selection of European animals ranging from wolves and lynx to porcupines, otters and stags. Visit the well-stocked Aquarium on the quayside at La Rochelle or the lush tropical vegetation of Crocodile Planet at Civaux, where 200 crocodiles and alligators live beneath a huge glass dome. The spectacular ruins of the Château des Evêques at Chauvigny are the background for Les Géants du Ciel, or Giants of the Sky, a flying display featuring eagles and vultures, toucans, pelicans and cormorants. If your family enjoys watching birds in the wild, take your binoculars to the reserves on Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron, the Marais Poitevin and the marshland around Rochefort. Small children will love Mouton Village at Vasles, a 6-hectare arboretum that is home to 23 breeds of sheep from all over the world, and the whole family will love the shaggy chocolate-brown donkeys at L’Asinerie du Baudet du Poitou at Dampierre-surBoutonne. Once common all over the region, the Poitou donkey is now a rare breed that owes its survival to a band of dedicated enthusiasts. See them too in Saintes at the Haras National or National Stud.

For more information: www.visit-poitou-charentes.com

Animal antics

Fun on the Water

hether your kids want to swim, build sandcastles or learn a new watersport, the fine sandy beaches of Poitou-Charentes are the perfect destination. Several resorts also run supervised beach clubs where they can meet other children and maybe try out their school French. But there are lots of other ways to have family fun in, on, and around the water, and not just by the sea. Everyone likes playing admiral and young imaginations can run riot on a cruising holiday down the Charente river. No previous experience or licence is needed to hire your own family-sized cruiser and you’ll find rental companies all along the Charente river. Enjoy the teamwork of navigating through locks; watch out for waterbirds and wildlife; and have fun exploring the picturesque villages and shopping at markets en route. Children love sleeping in cosy cabins and

eating meals on the deck of their floating home, and if they need to let off steam, the towpath is only a step away. For a very different kind of boating experience, take a punt through the green canals of the Marais Poitevin or let them paddle their own canoes to discover the marshes at close quarters. And if they fancy a taste of the open sea, a short cruise excursion is a fun way to see the islands, fortresses and lighthouses of Charente-Maritime. East of Angoulême, the two vast lakes of Lavaud and Mas-Chaban are surrounded by peaceful, wooded hills – the perfect spot for an outdoor family holiday. There’s no chance for children to get bored here, given the choice of walking and mountain-biking trails; pony trekking facilities; water sports and forest adventure parks. And with accommodation ranging from gîtes and campsites to motorhome parks and hotels, it’s a destination to suit every holiday budget.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

54 Family-friendly

Something a bit different

hildren across the ages have always loved climbing trees, but today’s youngsters can test their nerve and perfect their skills in complete safety at supervised forest adventure trails all over Poitou-Charentes. After initial instruction in how to move safely round the graded circuits, they will tackle giant swings and zip slides, monkey bridges and rope walls under the eagle eyes of an instructor. Less than 20 minutes from Poitiers, the Domaine de Dienné includes an adventure park with zip lines, a riding centre, and hiking trails, plus a wide range of accommodation including Mongolian yurts and gypsy caravans, tree houses and cosy cottages. There’s something magical about a train ride, whether you’re 7 or 70, and PoitouCharentes has some great choices for rail buffs. The P’tit Train de Saint Trojan on the Ile d’Oléron follows a 12-km route past beauty spots that are inaccessible by road, trundling gently through the forest, along the shores of Gatseau Bay and on to the beach at Maumusson. Over on the Charente-Maritime mainland, the Seagull Train links La Tremblade and Saujon, passing through the beautiful village of Mornac-sur-Seudre, as well as through the distinctive landscape of oyster beds and salt marshes. Just sit back and enjoy the commentary and the views. Fancy something a little more active? Then try the rail bikes or vélo-rails at Chauvigny and on the Charente-Limousine railway in northern Charente. Each “bike” has two seats fitted with pedals and adjustable saddles (suitable for children from 8 upwards) and three additional seats for passengers. So hop aboard, enjoy the scenery, and get some gentle exercise into the bargain.

Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Lighthouse Phare des Baleines

La Rochefoucauld

Chassiron

Living History

Château de Saint-Mesmin

All those classroom history lessons come zinging vividly to life when children can step back in time and experience historic locations first-hand. And they certainly don’t have to know the finer points of French history to be impressed by the dramatic maritime history of Charente-Maritime.

tand on the ramparts of the citadel at Le Château d’Oléron for instance and it’s easy to imagine yourself watching for enemy ships. Try making rope at Rochefort’s Corderie Royale, go inside the hull in the Hermione boatyard, and read the graffiti left by long-dead prisoners inside the Lantern Tower at La Rochelle. Few children can resist the chance to climb a lighthouse and see the coastline spread below them like a 3-dimensional map, but they can also come away with a greater understanding of both science and the natural world.

At the Phare des Baleines, for instance, on Ile de Ré, there’s a fascinating and fun exhibition at ground level on the history of lighthouses. And over on Ile d’Oléron, the gardens surrounding the Phare de Chassiron are full of interactive displays about wind, weather and shipping. There’s more educational fun at castles and country mansions too. Discover life in the Middle Ages at the 14th century Château de Saint-Mesmin at Saint-André-sur-Sèvre with its towering keep, medieval kitchens, and imposing battlements. Every summer, displays

and demonstrations follow a different theme, vividly portrayed by an atmospheric cast of costumed characters. With towers and turrets representing every architectural style from Romanesque to the 18th century, the Château de La Rochefoucauld looks like a fairy tale castle, perched on a rock above the Tardoire Valley. Children are encouraged to tour the castle in period dress, choosing from more than 80 fabulous costumes and accessories – living history at its most interactive. Gems of Poitou Charentes

56 Going Green

Going Green

Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Close to nature, walking and fishing Green and lush for most of the year, thanks to its temperate climate and proximity to the sea, Poitou-Charentes is a region area where nature is always on your doorstep. There are no mountains here or rugged hills, but the countryside is easily accessible to everyone, regardless of age, ability and fitness.

t’s also a region with an unusually varied choice of landscapes from sand dunes and salt marshes to rolling vineyards and winding river valleys, and there are few better ways to explore than on foot. Whether you’re looking for a casual stroll or a challenging hike, you’ll find well-marked paths to help you discover not only the natural heritage of the area, but also charming villages and historic buildings along the way. Ask at any tourist office about routes in their area, as well as guided walks with local experts. And don’t forget that you can explore all the major towns on self-guided walking tours that feature information panels at key locations. If you want something a bit more challenging, there are three GR – or Grande Randonnée – long distance routes that cross the region as well as the famous pilgrims’ routes to Santiago de Compostela.

Less energetic but an equally popular way to enjoy the natural environment is with rod and line. Fishermen can enjoy both freshwater and ocean fishing in some idyllic locations that include the beaches of Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron, the green waterways of the Marais Poitevin, and a wealth of unspoilt river valleys such as the Charente and the Thouet, the Gartempe and the Anglin. Or head for Pescalis, the internationally renowned nature and angling centre at Moncoutant near Parthenay. Choose from carp, coarse and carnivore fishing in 100 hectares of managed lakes in a field and forest setting. Stay on site for the ultimate angling holiday or buy a pass for a half- or full-day visit. Aimed at beginners as well as experienced anglers, Pescalis is the perfect place to bring the family or enjoy your sport in blissful solitude. Gems of Poitou Charentes

58 Going Green

ith so many different kinds of habitat on offer, the coast and countryside of Poitou-Charentes is home to a rich flora and fauna, as well as being a seasonal stopping point for visiting species of wild birds which flock to the marshes and bird reserves. Egrets and storks, reed warblers and waders return from Africa to rest and feed in the Station de Lagunage at Rochefort, for instance, whilst hundreds of ducks pass through the reserve of Cabane de Moins at Breuil-Magné before heading off to their feeding grounds. Meanwhile, the Réserve Naturelle du Pinail in the Moulière Forest near Poitiers is a permanent home for stags, wild boar and birds, not to mention flowers

Protected landscapes, birdwatching and nature

ranging from delicate orchids to carnivorous aquatic plants. Protecting the fragile natural environment whilst making it accessible to the public is a finely tuned balancing act and visitors are encouraged to get closer to nature at a variety of centres throughout the region. There are 13 Pôle Nature environmental centres in the department of CharenteMaritime alone. Initiated by the Regional Council, they cover everything from migratory birds to native donkeys, forest trades to coastal activities. The Vitrezay Nature Centre on the Gironde estuary, for instance, provides an overview of the local eco-system as well as an information point for nature excursions, whilst in the

north of the Ile de Ré, the Maison du Fier at Ars-en-Ré explains the birdlife of the Lilleau des Niges marshland. Expect lots of interactive fun, both indoors and out, designed to encourage visitors of all ages to explore the surrounding area for themselves. The Ligue Protectrice des Oiseaux (LPO) – French equivalent of Britain’s Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB). Based in Rochefort, the LPO organises meetings all year round, focusing on the part that birds play in preserving the world’s biodiversity. Tourist Office throughout the region can provide information on protected areas and nature centres to visit, as well as themed guided walks.

Accommodation with a conscience

A new variety of flower is popping up across the green landscape of Poitou-Charentes as the flower symbol of the European Ecolabel becomes firmly established across the region. This voluntary scheme is designed to encourage businesses to market Gems of

Poitou Charentes

products and services that are kinder to the environment, and the distinctive symbol makes it easy for consumers to find them. Part of a broader strategy to promote sustainable consumption and production, the flower logo can be found across the European Union as well

as in Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland. An increasing number of hotels, campsites and self-catering properties in Poitou-Charentes are joining this environmentally-friendly initiative, as well as tourist sites and festivals. New establishments are joining the scheme all the time from hotels to selfcatering properties and campsites. Stay where you see the flower logo and you know you are helping to keep PoitouCharentes green. And if you want something that is both eco-friendly and unusual at the same time, take a look at some of the more unusual accommodation options across the region. Choose from a Mongolian yurt, a wooden tree house, or a horse-drawn caravan – a delightful way to minimise your carbon footprint, or hoofprint!

On the green

ost golfers agree that a great natural environment is a key element of the game and when you play in Poitou-Charentes, you are spoilt for choice. There are 19 courses across the region ranging from coastal to country, traditional to compact, and the long hours of sunshine, temperate climate and clear light all combine to make this a very special place to play. If you’ve never played golf in France before, you’ll be surprised at the relaxed atmosphere, both on the course and in the clubhouse where there are fewer house rules than in the UK. Green fees and club hire are attractive and you’ll find dress code less stringent than at home too. If you like a challenge, try the 27 holes of the Golf du Château des Forges at Les Forges near the Marais Poitevin. Spread

across unspoilt rolling countryside dotted with lakes, streams and thickets, it is split into three 9-hole courses that can be combined in such a way as to give players the choice of three different 18-hole courses. Just 10 minutes north of La Rochelle, the Golf de la Prée overlooks the Baie de l’Aiguillon and the Ile de Ré. The bunkers and water hazards are reminiscent of Scottish courses and there are five challenging links holes where you can pit your wits against the sea breeze. Work your way along the greens of the Charente Valley on the 18-hole courses at Angoulême, Saintes, and Cognac, set in a landscape of gently rolling vineyards. With its gently sloping terrain dotted with water hazards, the 18-hole course at the Golf du Cognac in Saint-Brice is particularly popular

with British visitors, who can also practise on the driving range and 4-hole pitch-andputt course. Another popular course with golfers from the UK is the Golf du Haut-Poitou, an 18-hole course and 9-hole pitch-and-putt which overlook the beautiful lake at SaintCyr, midway between Châtellerault and Poitiers. The main course offers golfers the twin challenges of wooded hillside and level fairways punctuated with water. For the ultimate leisure experience, combine a round of golf with wellbeing treatments, heritage walks and casino games at the spa town of La Roche-Posay in the north-east corner of the region. Or seamlessly switch from beach to golf course at the beautiful 9-hole facilities on both the Ile de Ré and the Ile d’Oléron – just try not to get distracted by the sea views...

All our golfs courses on our website: www.visit-poitou-charentes.com

Gems of Poitou Charentes

60 Pedal Power

Pedal power

Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Two wheels rule If you enjoy getting out on a bike, but don’t enjoy battling against the British traffic, you’ll find cycling in Poitou-Charentes a refreshing change with quiet country roads and a wealth of dedicated cycle tracks. The gently undulating countryside makes for interesting, easy cycling, and there are more than 1000 km of bike paths to explore as well as endless quiet, safe roads.

ou don’t have to have to be super fit and wear lycra to feel at home either. The French may be passionate about road racing, but they regard cycling as a real family activity too. Look out for véloroutes – quiet secondary roads that are signposted and maintained with cyclists in mind–and voies vertes or green ways–surfaced tracks reserved exclusively for cyclists and horse riders, walkers and rollerbladers. Poitou-Charentes offers a wide range of cycling options through some of the country’s most beautiful countryside, whether you’re after a short, easy circuit or a longer, more challenging route. For those who want to go off-road, there are a number of centres where you can hire

mountain bikes or VTT – Vélos Tout-Terrain – including two that are accredited by the French Cycle Tourism Federation and a further six accredited by the French Cycling Federation. Catering for all ages and abilities, they offer extensive networks of marked and graded trails, as well as bike and helmet hire. If you’re planning to go cycle touring, look out for Logis Vélo, small hotels in the Logis de France network that specifically cater for cyclists by offering bike hire, storage facilities and other essentials. Poitou-Charentes also has six youth hostels in key towns as well as a number of Gîtes d’Etapes, designed as stopovers for cyclists, walkers and riders following long-distance itineraries.

62 Pedal Power

Discover the countryside

Travel by bike and you can stop to explore whenever the mood takes you. Pedal through the vineyards of Cognac Country, for instance, and the quiet country lanes wind through hamlets of picturesque houses, past Romanesque churches, and imposing country properties. Enjoy a glimpse into a hidden courtyard, watch work going on in the vineyards, and stop off at a quiet bistro to replenish those all-important energy levels.

lan your itinerary from home with the Plan Charente Vélo, a virtual road atlas that is now available online. The V3 European Road that links Trondheim in Norway to Santiago do Compostela in Spain crosses through the area between Lessac and Chantillac, but there are circular options too. Seven loops, all downloadable from the website, each offer three options of differing lengths, suitable for family groups, more experienced cyclists, and the seriously sporty. Or try the 20 km voie verte that passes through Angoulême along the towpath of the Charente river – a green corridor through the capital of the comic strip. North-east of Poitiers, the Vienne à Vélo route runs for 17 km through the delightful Vienne river valley around Châtellerault. Or cycle a section of the Ligne Verte which cuts

Gems of

Poitou Charentes

through the countryside between Châtellerault and Loudun for 40 km along an old railway track. Stop off along the way to relax in the picnic areas and discover the local history and landscape through a series of information panels. Further west, the Thouet à Vélo cycle route through Deux-Sèvres forms part of Véloroute 43, a national trail linking the Norman ferry port of Caen-Ouistreham with La Rochelle on the Atlantic Coast. Around 150 km of the longdistance route passes through the Deux-Sèvres department, linking the two natural sites of the Loire Valley and the Marais Poitevin, via the pretty Thouet valley and the historic town of Niort. Discover more than 600 km of marked circuits with the help of a network of professionals who offer everything from route advice to cycle hire and accommodation - look

for the Accueil Vélo logo of a cyclist against a green background. Then of course there’s the Marais Poitevin itself, second largest wetland area in France, and a haven for walkers and cyclists. Hire your wheels from waterside villages throughout the marshland to explore the shady tracks and tranquil towpaths of ‘Green Venice’. A magical experience you’ll remember long after the holiday’s over.

Beside coast and canal

oitou-Charentes has some of the most diverse coastline in France and when you explore on two wheels, you can admire the ever-changing views at your own pace. Pack a picnic in a rucksack and you have all the ingredients for a perfect day out of doors. Bicycles are a way of life on Ile de Ré, where more than 100 km of marked cycle tracks wind through vineyards, salt marshes and nature reserves. And with the highest point just 19 metres above sea level, it is small wonder that bikes are the most popular way to explore the whitewashed villages, sandy beaches and coastal defences. The neighbouring island of Ile d’Oléron is also easy to explore by bike and offers a surprising

variety of landscapes from north to south. Follow forest trails, hug the shoreline, or pedal through the flat landscape of the oyster beds. Over on the mainland, there are more coastal trails through the oyster beds at Marennes, the villages and beaches of La Coubre forest, and the Charente estuary near Rochefort. Or pick up one of 350 iconic Yélos – the Vélos Jaunes or Yellow Bikes that have became an integral part of the transport system around La Rochelle over the last 30 years. Just leave your passport as a deposit to enjoy the first two hours for free. There are now 180 km of cycle lanes and dedicated tracks in the La Rochelle area, the latest route stretching north to Esnandes on the edge of the Marais Poitevin.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

DR Spa Source La Roche-Posay

Health & Relaxation

Spa Hotels and Apartments Whether you’re staying for just one night or a long, relaxing break, Poitou-Charentes offers character spas that reflect the traditions and culture of the local area. Choose from hotels, apartment complexes and even camp sites with a choice of gastronomic restaurants, stylish spas and treatment packages to tempt you. Top quality and complete calm!

Le Normandoux

Les Gros Joncs Spa

Le François 1

In the heart of the lush, unspoilt countryside of the Vienne, this traditional manor house, built in the 16th and 17th centuries, will appeal to the whole family with its swimming pool, restaurant, and park. Adults can relax with a spa treatment using renowned Cinq Mondes products whilst the children have fun out of doors. 86800 Tercé

Nestled in the forest on the north-west coast of the Ile d’Oléron, the international campsite of Les Gros Joncs is a real ‘open air hotel’, renowned as an example of how best to integrate holiday accommodation with nature and the environment through eco-friendly practices. Awarded a European Ecolabel, it offers a spa and fitness area, with seawater treatments and beauty packages. Direct access to the sea. 17190 St-Georges d’Oléron

Located right in the centre of Cognac, this hotel spa pampers its guests with an indoor pool, sauna and massage room (treatments by reservation only). 16100 Cognac

Le Château de l’Yeuse Steeped in the history and reputation of nearby Cognac, the richly decorated interior of the Château de l’Yeuse offers a warm welcome to visitors. Enjoy elegant bedrooms and suites, restaurant, pool and spa treatments, all surrounded by a beautiful garden. 16100 Châteaubernard

Le Clos Saint-Martin A delightful hotel that celebrates the relaxed lifestyle of the Ile de Ré. The refined décor, spa, pool and shady park are shared by just 12 guests, who also enjoy direct access to the picturesque harbour of SaintMartin-de-Ré. 17410 Saint Martin de Ré

Spa Source La Roche-Posay Leading spa destination in France, La Roche-Posay can help you lose weight, relax, or pamper your skin with its wide range of treatments, split between four different areas. Spoil yourself in the NaturaSpa; address skin problems in the DermaSpa; fight the effects of ageing in the Anti-Ageing space; and tackle your wellbeing issues in the Wellness/Fitness area. Winner of the Tourist Innovation award from the French Tourist Office. 86270 La Roche-Posay

All our Spa hotels on our website: www.visit-poitou-charentes.com

Gems of

Poitou Charentes

Sunêlia Interlude This luxury campsite on the Ile de Ré recently opened its Adriana Karembeu spa for relaxation and wellbeing treatments. Choose from packages of facials, body treatments and massage treatments, leaving time to enjoy the sauna, hammam and Jacuzzi too. 17580 Le Bois Plage en Ré

Thermal Spas Poitou-Charentes boasts several important springs of natural mineral water and four thermal centres have grown up, each with its own medical speciality. Rochefort, Jonzac and Saujon in Charente-Maritime, and La Roche-Posay in Vienne, are all famous for their healing waters, their environment and exceptional climate.

Thermes de Rochefort-sur-Mer This centre offers a mild ocean climate with an exceptionally high number of sunshine hours. Coming from 854 m below ground, the spring water is rich in minerals and oligoelements with anti-inflammatory and antiscarring properties. Effective in the treatment of rheumatism, vascular and skin conditions. 17314 Rochefort-sur-Mer

Thermes de Saujon This small thermal resort is 10 km from the coast and offers a calm, temperate climate with mild winters. High in sodium chloride, the water also contains calcium and magnesium, making it excellent for the nervous system, sleep problems, stress and psychosomatic conditions. 17600 Saujon

Thermes de Jonzac With its gentle and relaxing ocean climate, Jonzac’s warm spring waters (61º) are rich in oligo-elements and proven to be effective in the treatment of rheumatism, breathing problems and vascular conditions. 17500 Jonzac

Thermes de La Roche-Posay Rich in selenium, the pure waters of La RochePosay have made this small country town into the leading European centre for thermal dermatology treatment. Conditions treated include eczema, burns, scars, and skin problems resulting from cancer treatment. Benefit too from the mild, relaxing climate and the new thermal wellbeing spa, L’Institut Mélusine. 86270 La Roche-Posay

Thalassotherapy: sheer pleasure with long-term benefits Want to pamper yourself? Then head for Charente-Maritime if you have a weekend to spare, or better still five days or more – the ideal stay for maximising the potential of seawater treatments. Experience the very best the ocean has to offer on Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron, in Royan and ChâtelaillonLa Rochelle Sud. Your programme includes lashings of clean Atlantic air, a high concentration of anti-stress ions, and the expertise of qualified professionals who will help to give you a magical stay.

Did you know? You would need to spend a whole day in the ocean to get the benefits of a 15-minute thalassotherapy bath. One kilo of algae, essential ingredient of thalassotherapy treatments, contains as much iodine as 100,000 litres of seawater. Algae also carry a high concentration of essential minerals – calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, copper, zinc, cobalt, iron and fluorine. Thalasso treatments work on the whole metabolism as well as on the skin, the muscles and joints, the respiratory and waste systems, and sleep patterns. Many treatments also relieve arthritis, back pain, and problems associated with ageing.

Gems of Poitou Charentes

A NANTES B

Loir e

How to get to Poitou-Charentes By boat Brittany Ferries, Condor Ferries, Norfolkline, P&O-Ferries, Seafrance, LD lines and Irish Ferries have regular links with French Channel ports. All the ports are within half a day drive from Poitou-Charentes.

Key to symbols Sea trips

Art town or country

Tourist train

Small town with character

High Speed train

Unesco World Heritage

Regional train station

Most beautiful French village

Airport

Castle open to the public

Roads to Santiago de Compostela Cycle track

Museum

Lighthouse

Dual carriageway, main road

Spa resort

Main road

Thalassotherapy

Railway line

Lake or pond

10 km 30

Beach 33

You can also fly to Paris and then take a TGV from the Charles-de-Gaulle Airport or Paris-Montparnasse train stations to Poitiers and other cities in the region. Or fly to Nantes and Bordeaux, and rent a car or take the train to Poitiers, Angoulême or La Rochelle.

Motorway

3 32

By train For travel arrangements, timetables, prices and bookings: visit www.raileurope.co.uk. Rail Europe Ltd is the official UK distributor for SNCF – French Railways. - From London-St Pancras via Lille-Europe: connections with Eurostar services: there are daily services to Poitiers (3 hours 30 minutes) and Angoulême (4 hours 15 minutes). - From Paris - gare Montparnasse: the TGV Atlantique service runs to the highspeed train station at the Futuroscope (1 hour 30) and the stations in Poitiers (1 hour 50 minutes), Angoulême (2 hours and 15 minutes), Niort 1(2 hours 12 minutes) and La Rochelle (2 hours 51 minutes). - From Bordeaux there are services to Angoulême (52 minutes) and Poitiers (1 hour 34 minutes). By air - Regular seasonal flights to and from La Rochelle – Ile de Ré flights and timetables on www.larochelle.aeroport.fr, Tel. + 33 (0) 5 46 42 30 26 From UK and Ireland London Stansted and London Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds/Bradford, Southampton, Bristol; Edimburgh; Dublin, Cork From Norway : Oslo From Belgium : Bruxelles-Charleroi From Switzerland : Geneva - Regular/seasonal flights to and from Poitiers-Futuroscope flights and timetables on www.poitiers.aeroport.fr/, Tel. + 33 (0) 5 49 30 04 40 From UK : London Stansted and Edinburgh From France : Paris-Orly-Poitiers-La Rochelle and Lyon-Poitiers-La Rochelle

Tourist office

Fortification

By road From North of France (Dunkirk, Boulogne, Calais), from Normandy, Brittany and Paris, main roads lead to our region. From farthest north points, follow Bordeaux direction and then you will find Poitiers or La Rochelle indications. A10 motorway and Nationale10 road link Poitiers to Bordeaux and A837 and Nationale 137 road link La Rochelle to Saintes via Rochefort.

LA ROCHE-S.-YON O A83 E03

VENDÉE

Baie de l’Aiguillon Phare des Baleines

St-Clément-des-Baleines

Lilleau des Niges

Loix

Ars-en-Ré

St-Martin-de-Ré La Flotte Ste-Marie

Phare de Chassiron

Châtelaillon

Boyardville

Fouras

Fort Boyard

Fort Lupin

St-Pierre Le Château

OCÉAN AT L A N T I Q U E

Brouage Bourcefranc

Fort Louvois

St-Trojan

Ronce-les-Bains La Tremblade Presqu’île d’Arvert

Journey time in hours between the main cities of Poitou-Charentes Phare de la Coubre

Marennes Es la tua Se ire ud d re e

La Palmyre

Mornacs.-Seudre

Zoo

Futuroscope

00:00 00:28 01:09 00:57 00:55 01:41 01:59 02:19 01:49 02:02 01:31 02:05 01:39

Poitiers

00:28 00:00 01:19 01:07 01:05 01:50 02:08 02:29 01:58 02:11 01:40 02:10 01:44

St-G de-

Phare de Cordouan

Marais Poitevin 01:09 01:19 00:00 00:24 01:01 00:57 01:15 01:41 01:10 01:36 01:04 01:39 02:00 Niort

00:57 01:07 00:24 00:00 00:46 00:58 01:16 01:42 01:11 01:29 00:58 01:34 01:50

Parthenay

00:55 01:05 01:01 00:46 00:00 01:38 01:56 02:25 01:54 01:58 01:27 01:27 02:26

La Rochelle

01:41 01:50 00:57 00:58 01:38 00:00 00:19 01:03 00:37 01:20 01:01 01:30 02:11

Ile de Ré

01:59 02:08 01:15 01:16 01:56 00:19 00:00 01:23 00:53 01:36 01:16 01:46 02:27

Ile d’Oléron

02:19 02:29 01:41 01:42 02:25 01:03 01:29 00:00 00:35 00:48 00:59 01:25 02:06

Rochefort

01:49 01:58 01:10 01:11 01:54 00:37 00:53 00:35 00:00 00:47 00:35 01:05 01:46

Royan

02:02 02:11 01:36 01:29 01:58 01:20 01:36 00:48 00:47 00:00 00:42 01:04 01:44

Saintes

01:31 01:40 01:04 00:58 01:27 01:01 01:16 00:59 00:45 00:42 00:00 00:35 01:16

Cognac

02:05 02:10 01:39 01:34 02:01 01:30 01:46 01:25 01:05 01:04 00:35 00:00 00:46

Angoulême

01:39 01:44 02:00 01:50 02:26 02:11 02:27 02:06 01:46 01:44 01:16 00:46 00:00

www.viamichelin.fr/web/Itineraires, itinéraires conseillés par Michelin

Cli t Climate Cli The Poitou-Charentes coastline enjoys an exceptional number of hours of sunshine, setting it on a par with the Mediterranean coast of France. Temperatures are always pleasant and the sea air is clear and fresh. After a mild winter which enables mimosa to flower on the coast in January, spring comes early. Summer remains the peak tourist season but the late summer and early autumn are ideal periods for relaxing holidays and sightseeing tours.

G A

M A I N E - E T- L O I R E

ire Lo

DOUÉ-LA-FONTAINE

TOURS/PARIS

SAUMUR

67 R

I N D R E - E T- L O I R E

CHINON

A87

CHOLET

GR 36

GR 655

Loudun

Les Ormes

Mauléon

dr e

POITOUCHARENTES

Thouars

Argenton-les-Vallées 28

F R A N C E

Oiron

Moncontour Airvault St-Mesmin

La Roche-Posay

Mirebeau

St-Loup-Lamairé

St-Andrés.-Sèvre

GR 48

Moncoutant PougneHérisson

Vouneuil-s.Vienne

St-Cyr

Neuvillede-Poitou

Pescalis

INDRE

Angles-s.l’Anglin

Le Pinail

FUTUROSCOPE

Cre us e

Touffou

LE BLANC

Bonnes Vasles

Anglin

Mouton-Village

St-Savin-s.Gartempe

Chauvigny

St-Benoît

NANTES

7.1

Civaux

Tumulus de Bougon

St-Maixent-l’École

CoudraySalbart

Lusignan

L’Île aux Serpents

La Trimouille

La planète des Crocodiles

Vivonne

Lussac-les-Châteaux

Gençay La MotheSt-Héray

Coulon Arçais

Couhé Romagne

Aire Poitou-Charentes

St-Hilairela-Palud

La Vallée des Singes

Celles-s.-Belle Melle Zoodyssée

Villiers-en-Bois Surgères

Civray

BELLAC

Charroux

Dampierres.-Boutonne

Hiesse

H AU T E - V I E N N E

Ruffec

Marais d’Yves

Esse

Aulnay

Tonnay-Boutonne

Saint-Fraigne A20 E09

Beaufief

St-Savinien Roumazières- Chabanais Loubert Chassenon

Mansle Panloy

St-Porchaire La Roche-Courbon

Rouillac

Paléosite

Les Bouchauds

Thermes

Montembœuf

St-Césaire

La Rochefoucauld

Saujon Jarnac St-Simon

Pons

Meschers

Châteauneuf-s.Charente

Château des Enigmes

Talmont

Villebois-Lavalette

BarbezieuxSt-Hilaire

Document réalisé par la Région Poitou-Charentes Mise en page, pré-presse Région Poitou-Charentes, cartographie IGS-CP Angoulême Photos © CRTPC/Région Poitou-Charentes © Pascal Baudry, Jacques Villégier, Francis Leroy, Mathieu Anglada, Stéphane Charbeau, Carine Lutt. © Tous droits réservés Page 24 © Musée du papier le Nil Page 43 © Hôtel Le Grand Large île d’Oléron Page 49 © Châteaux de Touffou, Rochebrune et Oiron Pages 50-51 © Nuits Romanes - Région Poitou-Charentes Inventaire du Patrimoine Culturel/Raphaël Jean, Christian Rome, Gilles Beauvarlet Page 52 © La Vallée des Singes Page 54 © Cabane dans les arbres – Parc de la Belle Page 55 © Château de Saint-Mesmin Page 59 © Golf de la Prée à La Rochelle - Golf du Haut-Poitou

Ruelle

Segonzac

GeorgesDidonne

Lac de Cadeuil

St-Amantde-Boixe

n Vie

Le Douhet

LIMOGES

Soucieux de la préservation de l’environnement, la Région Poitou-Charentes sélectionne des fournisseurs engagés dans une démarche environnementale. Ce document est imprimé dans le respect des normes environnementales sur du papier certifié PEFC avec des encres végétales par un imprimeur labellisé BrantômeImprim’Vert et certifié PEFC : SIPAP-OUDIN Imprimerie - 2 rue des Transporteurs Pôle République 1 - 86061 Poitiers Cedex 09 Printed in France - Janvier 2014.

Vitrezay Montendre Aubeterre-s.-Dronne 38

Montlieu-la-Garde Montguyon

PÉRIGUEUX BORDEAUX

GIRONDE E

A89 E70

DORDOGNE

14 G

Video

FranceAtlantic

PoitouCharentesAtlanticCoastCognacCountry

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