FREE! Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_October-November 2022

Belwederska

Warsaw

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw p.12

an immersive guidebook for independent travel...

Introducing Warsaw p.07 How to Use This Guide p.08

Features

Skyfall Warsaw p.10

Golden Polish Autumn p.12

Rest. Baczewskich p.16

Traditional Polish Dishes p.18

Jewish Culinary Culture Exhibit p.58

Transport p. 20

Sightseeing

Essential Warsaw p. 23

City Centre p. 24

Old Town Walking Tour p.30

The Royal Route p.38

Powiśle p.44

Łazienki Park p.48

Wilanów p.52

Praga p.54

Art, History & Culture

Art Tourism p.57

Current Exhibitions p.59

Museums p.60

Jewish Warsaw p.64 Warsaw Uprising p.66

Activities p.68

Kids & Families p.70

Dining Featured p.73

Breakfast & Brunch p.74

Casual Dining p.76

Fine Dining p.80 Food Markets p.84

Nightlife

Featured p.87

Bars p.88 Clubs p.92

Adult Entertainment p.95 Shopping p.96

Venue Index p.102

Maps

City Map p. 2

City Centre Map p. 25

Old Town Map p.31

Royal Route Map p.39

Powiśle Map p.45

Łazienki Map p.48

Wilanów Map p.53

Praga Map p.54

Warsaw Old Town (p.30) enjoying a fresh coat of ‘seasonal change’. Photo by ewg3D / Canva Pro.

Welcome to Warsaw

Warsaw Old Town with the city centre skyline in the background.

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.7 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

Offering unparalleled views of Warsaw’s skyline in a breathtaking glass-bottom viewing deck, Skyfall (p.10) is Poland’s highest observation point. Photo by Adam Borkowski / @borkography.

Publisher & Staff

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Circulation 12,000 copies published every 2 months

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Warsaw’s Golden Polish Autumn

It’s a good time to visiting the Polish capital. The cool change is upon us, and Warsaw’s parks and landscaping have begun taking on their stunninglybeautiful shade of yellow and red!

Poland Is Not Yet Lost

On November 11th - Polish Independence Day - you are likely to hear this tune proudly sung by those parading in the streets. WATCH OUR VIDEO on the incredible story behind Poland’s national anthem

Warsaw Day Trips

Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Editor: Pierre Duyker; Editor in chief: Garrett Van Reed Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Magdalena Kumala, Anna Janus Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman

Copyright Notice

All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Skyfall Warsaw Rise above the capital skyline

There is a new attraction in town which takes visitors to a whole different and higher level of experience. Rise 200 meters above the city and discover a stunning view of the whole Warsaw skyline. In addition, experience an attraction that will literally knock you off your feet and change the angle of your view on things.

When thinking of the „above the clouds” view of the Warsaw skyline most Varsovians and visitors instinctively think of the Palace of Culture and Science and its viewing terrace, located on the historic skyscraper’s 30th floor. That will most likely not be the case for much longer.

If you actually want to see Warsaw from above and get a view of the whole skyscraper repertoire of the capital you have to head further out west to the Wola district. Such a piece of advice would have been laughed off by locals a few years ago, as high-rise buildings in Wola were scarce if not non-existent. But that has well-and-truly changed...

Taking it to new heights

Enter ‘Warsaw Unit’ – the capital’s 5th tallest building at 202 meters, completed in 2021.

Located at Rondo Daszyńskiego, this construction is part of the latest surge of skyscraper development in Warsaw, which turned this former industrial area of Wola district into a real „new Manhattan”, not to mention a thriving office hub.

However, Warsaw Unit is more than just an office building. Head up to the 46th floor to witness a stunning new attraction. Here you will find ‘Skyfall Warsaw’ - the highest viewing deck in Poland And the only one that offers a view of the whole

Unparalleled views and emotions to be experienced on Skyfall Warsaw’s glass-bottom viewing terrace.

Skyfall Warsaw | Rise above the capital skyline

Warsaw city center and all the skyscrapers (including the Palace of Culture and Science). You can watch the rising sun in the east waking up from behind all the skyscrapers. Likewise, you can watch it set in the west behind the horizon with no high rise building blocking the view.

Change the angle of your view

But there is much more to Skyfall Warsaw than simply being a viewing terrace. As the great Alfred Hitchcock put it: “A good film starts with an earthquake and should be followed by a rising tension.” Well, the creators of Skyfall Warsaw must have been students of the late director. The nearly 200-metre viewing terrace is the earthquake, and the tension definitely rises afterwards...or should we say adrenaline? You see, a key attraction of the terrace is a glass platform, small enough to fit just four people. Fully glazed with a transparent floor, which should already give you goose bumps and send adrenaline rushing through your body, considering that the platform is located at almost 200 meters above the city. Now imagine that suddenly the floor moves...Yes, you read correctly! A moving glazed viewing terrace with a moving floor, giving you the impression that part of the terrace is actually falling away from the building! This will literally and figuratively knock you off your feet. Skyfall Warsaw is the only such attraction not only in Poland, but also in all of Europe – so it’s an absolute must.

Taking the body and soul to a new level

Such an experience for most of us would definitely require a drink to calm the nerves. Well, guess what? Skyfall Warsaw is planning to have its own bar in the near future, offering a wide array of hand-crafted cocktails (including non-alcoholic ones), premium spirits and a rich line-up of sweet and savoury snacks to go along with enjoying the only panorama of the Warsaw skyline from the west. Skyfall Warsaw’s offer goes even further. It has something for both the soul and the body. As far as the former goes, Skyfall Warsaw has ambitious plans to provide the highest (literally and figuratively) form of artistic performances such as live music theatre.

As for the healthy body, Skyfall Warsaw has been the stage of fit morning pilates sessions. Seeing the whole city from way above basking in the first rays of the morning sun (while doing the Sun Salutation pose) is a truly unforgettable experience!

Heaven for events

Skyfall Warsaw is also available to host organised events. It has all the necessary multimedia, helpful, friendly and competent staff, and, needless to say, an extraordinary, one of a kind event space of the highest (again!) level. The easily-utilised space of Skyfall Warsaw comes to an impressive total 450 square metres, which allows for organising events for up to 180 people. That includes the bar, as well as two open air terraces which can be roofed upon request. The interiors were designed by the renowned Mac Stopa from Massive Design – known for his innovative and unorthodox projects. Reaching the Skyfall Warsaw level is also an experience in itself. A separate elevator takes guests up to the top from a ground level entrance from Prosta street. The trip to the 46 floor lasts... only half a minute!

So far, the Skyfall Warsaw terrace and platform are solely opened for organised events and conferences. We have good news, however: There are plans for the space to be opened to individual guests! That is, by no means, your only option. In the meantime, you can experience Skyfall Warsaw’s amazing terrace view during the warm glow of Wednesday-morning Pilates sessions! More details of these events can be found on Skyfall Warsaw’s social media accounts.

Details about prices and terms of entry can be found on the Skyfall Warsaw website. Furthermore, if you are in Warsaw and looking for a unique venue that offers a truly unforgettable experience for you and your guests, get in touch with Skyfall Warsaw today!

QC‑8, rondo Daszyńskiego 1, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 798 683 321, www.skyfallwarsaw.com. Open for private events.

T­H

Skyfall Warsaw’s stunning interior.

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw

Chopin is enjoying autumn in Łazienki Park (p.48), and you should be, too | © Adobestock

Ah, fall. A chill in the air, brilliantly-coloured leaves, an abundance of apples and pumpkins. A season that has inspired painters, poets and legions of self-proclaimed ‘basic bitches’.

Poland has no shortage of such female autumn enthusiasts, who have recently coined a term for themselves: jesieniary , from the Polish word for autumn, jesień . Of course, lads can like fall too, and the male equivalent of jesieniara is jesieniarz . The attributes of jesieniary and jesieniarze are similar to what folks enjoy elsewhere in the West: pumpkin spice lattes, chunky sweaters, curling up under a blanket while appropriately autumnal jazz plays in the background. But fall in Poland comes with some more unusual activities, which were part of celebrating the season long before the jesieniary trend was making the rounds on social media. Here, autumn can hardly be considered complete without hunting for forest mushrooms , cooking plum preserves and connecting with Slavic forefathers by visiting the dead on All Saints’ Day and All Souls Day

THE AMBIENCE

Poles are proud of what they call the ‘Golden Polish Autumn’ (złota polska jesień) - a period of sunny and warm weather which often coincides with leaves changing colours. If you’re lucky enough to be here during this phenomenon, it’s off to the leafiest parts of town: its many parks, like Łazienki (p.48), Pole Mokotowskie (F-11/12), Skaryszewski Park (L-5/6), Wilanów Park and Gardens (p.52) or the sprawling Kampinos Forest National Park on Warsaw outskirts. This is also a great time to take in the sweeping panoramas offered by Warsaw’s viewpoints. For something free and close to the Old Town, walk on over the oh-so-appealing sounding Dung Hill (p.36) and the surprising city garden atop the University Library (p.47). If you’re willing to shell out a few złoty, the belltower of St. Anne’s Church (p.38) and the viewing terraces of the Palace of Culture and Science (p.28) and Skyfall (p.10) will let you see far across the town. Got a bit more time? Sunny autumn days are perfect for a day trip or two. How about a visit to the birthplace of Polish great Fryderyk Chopin, Żelazowa Wola, or the 19th century Modlin Fortress?

THE FOOD

Fall is mushroom season, period. Now, hunting for wild forest mushrooms is a popular activity across much of central and eastern Europe, from Germany to Russia, but it’s difficult to overstate how much Poles like their mushrooms. The country has been the world’s top mushroom exporter since 2007, and come fall, Poles head to forests en masse, baskets in hand, to hunt for their favourite edible fungi. According to the Polish Centre for Public Opinion Research some 77% of Poles have been mushroom picking at least once in their lifetime, and over 40% seem go at least semi-regularly. There is a lot to choose from: Polish forests are a treasure trove of mushroom species, with over 1000 edible varieties (and many poisonous ones). Highly skilled mushroom pickers can usually positively identify some 40 edible species. Favourites include the stately porcini mushrooms, slippery jacks, saffron milk cups, bay boletes and brightly yellow chanterelles, which pair nicely with scrambled eggs. Once picked, the mushrooms can be dried, marinated in vinegar or immediately find their way into homecooked meals. Unsurprisingly, forest mushrooms feature in many traditional Polish dishes (p.18), often paired with cabbage. Some prominent examples are bigos, mushroom soup and mushroom sauce, pierogi with cabbage and mushrooms and gołąbki with mushrooms and buckwheat.

Hot Beer?

Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery sea son, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratula tions, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter pro fanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

More botanically-inclined Poles also take advantage of other seasonal offerings, making herbal teas, pickles, jams and strong alcoholic infusions called nalewki, which they insist have medicinal properties. Nalewki can be made from almost anything, and popular autumnal choices are the vividly-coloured berries of rowan, hawthorn, dogwood and seabuckthorn trees and shrubs. These berries are picked, cleaned, submerged in watered-down rectified alcohol with a good helping of sugar, and left to ferment. While this is mostly a domestic endeavour, you might be able to find nalewki in some Warsaw bars, and we would encourage you to give them a try.

The same types of berries, as well as rosehips and all manner of late-summer fruit can be turned into jams, but there is only one star in the Polish pantry: powidła śliwkowe, plum preserves. This very dark, sweet, aromatic substance is usually made in late September from ripe Moyer plums and nothing else, with the fruit traditionally simmered for a few hours at a time over the course of three days. Poles love having some powidła on fresh bread or crepes, and we highly recommend picking up a jar at a grocery store.

THE HOLIDAYS

September and October are usually a flurry of outdoor activities, enjoying the gorgeous foliage and harvest bounty. However, the approach of November is when Poland starts to careen precariously into darkness and cold and Poles return to their typical melancholy state. Luckily, this is also when the fall holidays start to pop up. First, a Western import: Halloween. While not celebrated with even a fraction of the gusto and relish of AngloSaxon countries, in large cities this has become a welcome chance to put up a few creepy decorations, switch on a horror flick or party it up at a themed club night. It also massively annoys the Roman Catholic Church, which still holds considerable sway with the Polish population. Every year, squabbles break out between religious hardliners denouncing the ‘demonic, pagan’ holiday and those who enjoy carved pumpkins and a good slasher. Ironically enough, the next two days - November 1st and 2nd - are dedicated to pagan-root holidays which almost everyone in Poland can get behind: All Saints’ Day and All Souls Day

These officially Roman Catholic holidays have taken over from the Slavic Dziady (Forefathers or Forefathers’ Eve), an occasion on which the living would prepare an elaborate feast for departed ancestors. Places were set at the table for the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them the way to the house. In this day and age, virtually everyone in Poland heads to the cemeteries to light candles and lay chrysanthemums on graves of relatives or important members of the community. As night descends, the country’s graveyards and memorial spots are aglow with the warm light of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone with a heart that still beats. If you’re in Warsaw around this time, a stroll around one of the city’s cemeteries - for example Powązki, where many famous Poles have been laid to rest - is an absolute must.

Just over a week later, on November 11th, the somber atmosphere can be continued at Poland’s most important non-religious holiday: Independence Day. No, no hot dogs or fireworks here; this country prefers to celebrate their return to the European stage after 123 of partitions with stony-faced military parades, lofty speeches, and marches, which - sadlyhave been largely hijacked by flare-toting nationalists in recent years, particularly in Warsaw. Luckily, there are also more uplifting events to take part in, such as the annual Independence Run and Independence Day concerts.

The month is wrapped up with Andrzejki (Saint Andrew’s Eve), an evening of fortune-telling. The traditions of this holiday date back to at least 1557, when it was first mentioned in writing. Originally, the fortune-telling was done exclusively by women, and exclusively in order to glimpse their future matrimonial situation - it was also a very serious deal. In the centuries since, it has evolved into lighthearted and ungendered fun, and is now typically done for a laugh with friends or used as another excuse to party, especially among college students.

This, of course, is in addition to the many cultural events which fill up Warsaw’s calendar each year (barring a global pandemic). To see what’s in store this year, check out our ‘Temporary Exhibits’ section on p.59

Spectacular colours at Łazienki Park (p.48)

All Saints’ Day in the Powazki Cemetery © udmurd AdobeStock

Rest. Baczewskich

The Culinary Spirit of Interwar Poland

The ‘20s and ‘30s of the last century are often remembered with a great sense of nostalgia, and the vision of a young and newlyindependent Poland is no different. It is this legacy of art, culture and culinary traditions, that have been embraced by Warsaw’s Rest. Baczewskich, where every dish that finds its way to your table is a vivid interpretation of everything that the previous centuries have given us.

A Touching Legacy

The heart and soul of the Rest. Baczewskich concept is Dmitriy Babak, born and raised in Lviv, Ukraine, a student of the Basque Culinary Center in San Sebastian, Spain, and an intern of prestigious restaurants in Warsaw and London, including “Dinner” by Heston Blumenthal, which boasts 2 Michellin stars. For a concept like Baczewskich, such credentials may seem like a mismatch to foreigners. For Poles, however, this makes total sense. Historically, Lviv (or Lwów) was a Polish city, with an incredible multicultural community that the nation has always celebrated. This mix of communities helped to define

the region, known as Galicia, the cuisine of which Babak is especially passionate about. As for the name Baczewski, most often associated with Poland’s famed label of vodka, the symbolism goes beyond just a recognisable brand. The Baczewski noble family were also natives of Lviv, as was the reputed vodka distillery. More importantly, however, Baczewski is synonymous with good taste and impeccable style, as well as centuries-old traditions, combining Polish customs with an elite, open-minded and joyous atmosphere. This is what defines Rest. Baczewskich’s approach to hospitality and dining luxury for the soul open to first-class entertainment and the art of dining itself!

Rest. Baczewski exquisite combination of Polish and Galician cuisine with countless other international culinary influences!

A Unique Location

For a concept such as Rest. Baczewskich, its location and premises couldn’t be more ideal. Close to numerous landmarks on the The Royal Route (p.38), this neo-Renaissance Palace at Aleja Jana Chrystiana Szucha 17 was built in 1895, and is one of the few buildings in Warsaw that survived the destruction of WWII. Now nestled in a quiet square, today it remains a silent witness to past tragedies and triumphs, and there are physical signs of the earlier. However, the best of these memories are kept alive on and around the tables, as well as in the bar, at the piano and even in the restaurant’s very own cabaret! This atmosphere has been created with ease, and what better place could exist to experience the highest-quality food and the very best of company!

The Taste of „Warsaw À Lviv”

The culinary history of two great cities, Lviv and Warsaw, is an inexhaustible source of imagination for head chef Dmitriy Babak, which he and his team draw upon to form their own unique character. Much like interwar Poland, the author’s menu created here respects tradition, while at the same time is bold and open to new influences. Classic recipes from Galician cuisine has driven the kitchen team to source from their own smokehouse, not to mention their own bakery section, as well as necessary ingredients for unique sweets, desserts and liqueurs. Babak’s experience of Ukrainian, Italian, French and Asian cuisine has clearly influenced the process. He is does not steer away from spices, and favours preparing meat on a charcoal or wood-fired grill. Like the agrarian south-eastern corner of interwar Poland, nature is another huge influence on Babak’s approach to

food. Seasonal dishes are an important part of the menu here, not just because of the emphasis on using fresh products, but also to keep the offer varied and exciting for the many return visitors that have been turned on to the magic of this place.

Baczewskich Bar

What would a delicious meal be without a suitable topping? I’m glad you asked! Completing the Rest. Baczewskich dining experience, a wide selection of alcohols and cocktails have been developed and continue to be served by our experienced bartenders. You will find both timeless classic cocktails and interesting variations of them, each and every one presented in a unique form. The goal here is simple - to create an atmosphere of feasting and pleasure in a place of beauty (It is a palace, after all!) A special mention needs to be made about the liqueurs on offer. Rest. Baczewskich is also the only restaurant in Poland with such a wide selection, showing off over 100 different flavours that bolster the already sizeable list of classic beverages. Every guest who comes through our door should try them, not to mention having someone else drive them home afterwards! If that’s not impressive enough, the extensive wine list, sourced from every corner of the world, is specially handled by our experienced sommeliers, each of whom are happy to help you make your selection.

Events at Baczewskich

An essential part of Poland’s optimistic interwar years were the lavish parties, and Rest. Baczewskich intends to continue such a legacy. Exquisite food, invigorating alcohol, exceptional service and a stunning historic interior is the perfect chemistry to spring forth a banquet and/or party! The 800m2 space includes seating for 240 guests, both inside and in the lush garden area. For more intimate events, the lower room - the so-called Nalewkowa - is a cozy 60-to-90 person space that is ideal for sit-down or cocktail parties. As part of hosting such events, the exceptionally-talented kitchen staff are always thrilled at the challenge of imaginatively adapting the menu for individual celebrations. So when do you plan on experiening Rest. Baczewskich’s incredible offer? Dmitriy Babak and the team are waiting eagrely for your presence.QH‑11, Aleja Jana Chrystiana Szucha 17, MPolitechnika, tel. +48 888 52 26 68, www.baczewskich.rest. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€€. T­U­B­6

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Bigos

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

Golonka

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being ten derised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Pierogi

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Żurek

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Transport

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport

is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find dispensers next to the gates). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

To validate your metro ticket, pass it through the electronic gate to enter the underground, then hang onto your ticket until you leave the underground. For buses and trams, validate your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification. Qwww.ztm.waw.pl, www.metro.waw.pl

Dworzec Centralny bus stop

Car & Bike Share

Traficar Car Share

Want your own car, but just for a short while?

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 3.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.79zł/km; 0.15zł/min when parked (0.01/min 23:00 07:00).

Veturilo Public Bike

Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 5,000+ bikes at over 300 stations (including 10 electric bike stations). Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations, or if the stands are full, confirm your return via the station’s machine and use the bike chain to secure it to another bike.Qwww.veturilo.waw.pl.

Available from March 1 to November 30.

Useful Transport Tools

Jakdojade

Warsaw’s public transit network is relatively easy to use, but the key to unlocking it is the warszawa.jakdojade.pl site and web app. Let the app access your location and it’ll determine the most efficient way to get to your destinationwhether it be bus, tram, metro or train, which isn’t always obvious - using live data. A huge help for navigating your way around, you can also buy and validate tickets in the app.

E-podroznik.pl

This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Warsaw, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination, whether within Poland or abroad, by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only).

Ride Share & Taxis

You’ll be happy to know that some of the ride share apps already on your phone will work in Warsaw, including Uber, Bolt and Free Now

In fact, ride share services and taxi services are almost indistinguishable in the capital, with drivers typically operating on multiple platforms at the same time. Note, however, that ride share providers don’t have the same permissions as licensed cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly. If you want to make sure you’re getting an actual taxi, try iTaxi (itaxi.pl), or call the Glob Cab Taxi at +48 1-9668 or +48 666 00 9668i.

Scooter Rental

Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, and provide a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around. To get started, you need an e-scooter app on your phone (create an account and add your personal data and payment details). The firms with the most current coverage in the capital are Lime, Bolt, Blinkee and CityBee. Spare yourself the wrath of locals by using your scooter responsibly; don’t ride through congested areas and when you’ve finished your ride, park it out of the way without blocking the sidewalk.

Veturilo station on the Vistula. Photo: F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw.

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.30), regal Royal Route (p.38) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.48) and Wilanów (p.52), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.24), happening Powiśle (p.44) and scruffy Praga (p.54). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

Terracotta tenement roofs of Warsaw Old Town (p.30); photo by @alxsnapscolours.

9 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.31

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.34.

3 Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.45.

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.48

9 Skyfall Warsaw

When visitors to Warsaw seek out the best views in the city, they instinctively head to the Palace of Culture & Science, a common point on the tourist map. However, there is another option that far exceeds the scope of what the Palace has to offer....

Located in the burgeoning Wola district to the west of the City Centre and Old Town skyline, the UNIT skyscraper is an ultra-modern construction that was recently completed in 2021, and it is here on the 46th floor that Skyfall keeps a watchfull eye over the Polish capital. At 200 metres above sea-level, this is one of the highest observation decks in Poland, and, unlike the afore-mentioned Palace, its eastward-looking panorama gives you all of Warsaw’s major landmarks in one breathtaking gaze. Even more phenomenal is the glazed, fourperson observation deck, providing visitors with the heart-racing experience of floating above the clouds. Read more about the magic of Skyfall on p.10 and start planning your visit today!

QC‑8, rondo Daszyńskiego 1, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 798 08 33 21, www.skyfallwarsaw.com Skybar (the bar inside Skyfall) is only open for events. T­H

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.52

6 POLIN

1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.65.

7 Palace of Culture & Science

Stalin’s ‘gift from the Soviet people’ has been controversial ever since its construction. Head up for fabulous 237 metre-high views!QSee p. 28.

8 Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of the best in PL.QSee p.67

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, you’re already in it, aren’t you? Chances are you’re staying in the City Centre, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.30), shall we? Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Follow us as we help you find the hay in this needlestack, Photo by @alexsnapscolours.

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski, you’ll find a statue of the big man nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation.

During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here; considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here too that in 1979, the newly appointed Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims.

At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, Plac Piłsudskiego, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and was one of the first public parks in the world when it opened in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Its centrepiece is a large fountain created in 1855, with the radiating alleyways lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825, modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. One of several other curiosities here is a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. The beautiful Renaissance palace to the south holds Zachęta - Warsaw’s premier space for contemporary art (p.62).QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

3 Hala Mirowska & Hala Gwardii

These two massive brick market halls, constructed between 1899 and 1901, functioned as Warsaw’s largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising (Check out the bullet scars still visible on the corner of Pl. Mirowski and Jana Pawła II!) A visit here is like a trip back to the 1950s, thanks to the outmoded shops full of cheap goods and lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out of their vans. Meanwhile, Hala Gwardii (open Fri-Sun only), has been turned into a trendy food hall (p.85). The dichotomy is unique as this place strains to modernise, but stays true to its roots.QD‑6, Pl. Mirowski 1, MRondo ONZ. Open 06:00 20:00; Sat 06:00 18:00; closed Sun.

4 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, delicatessens and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary (p.84)- 12 contemporary gastro concepts in the former brewery cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery, p.76) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads. Other highlights include a sports bar part owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s) and dinner entertainment at Baila Show & Dining. Check online for events, because there’s always something brewing!QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 58, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl

5 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One Warsaw’s newest public social spaces, European Square was created as part of the development of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards from industry authorities and local residents for their design. Among the many features here is a unique Art Walk gallery, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says Kocham Warszawę (I Love Warsaw). Concerts, film screenings, frequent live sports transmissions take place here year round, and its cafes, bars and food options make this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, Plac Europejski, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

6 Fabryka Norblina

The latest of several highly successful urban renewal projects in Warsaw, and maybe the most diverse and exciting. This 2ha former industrial site was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metallic goods, ranging from the utilitarian (cutlery, dishes, teapots) to true works of art. Massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern centre of commerce, culture, entertainment and gastronomy. Visitors will find an truly impressive multimedia museum about the site’s industrial history, the largest Apple Museum in the world, a trendy Food Town with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, the BioBazar ecomarket and bistro, the Kinogram boutique cinema, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes, a full

calendar of events and more. Opened as recently as September 2021, this truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.

QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl. E­6

7 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941, it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features a neatly landscaped park area. with surrounding bars and cafe. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It remained derelict, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here in the former heart of Jewish Warsaw (p.64) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

8 Pasaż Wiecha

Like the trough behind a cresting wave, this ‘passage’ runs parallel to ul. Marszakowska in the shadow of the Wars Sawa Junior departments stores, otherwise know as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ One of the most monstrous projects completed in communist

Aerial view of Plac Piłsudskiego bordering Saxon Garden. Photo by Tom Black / AdobeStock.

Warsaw, this massive wall of buildings is among the oldest department store/retail complexes in Poland, a role it still plays today. Completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect, their reputation changing to that of an enormous eyesore. In more recent times, the buildings have been modernised with shining glass frontages, granite walkways and proper lighting. Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, and is complemented by benches, hammocks, beach chairs and other elements of urban design, which play host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped as a greener and more user-friendly space, creating a lively pedestrian corridor to connect the centre with ul. Nowy Świat (p.41) via ul. Chmielna. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF‑7/8, Pasaż Stefana Wiecheckiego Wiecha, MCentrum.

9 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 tall maple trees have been added to the space, as well of numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Right here is the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which have reduced car traffic and parking spaces, widened sidewalks, added greenery, and are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians connecting ul. Nowy Świat and the Royal Route (p.38) to the Palace of Culture (p.28). A great area for exploration, on and around the square you’ll plenty of cool cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling.QG‑7/8, Intersection of ul. Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist world - namely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955. With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony. At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution

Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

The iconic Palace of Culture & Science is controversial amongst locals, due to its association with Poland’s communist era.

QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00 19:00. Viewing terrace open 09:00 20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U

The Old Town

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p. 66 ), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

Autumn suits the colours of Warsaw’s Old Town, seen in this view down ul. Krzywe Koło.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps of King Sigismund’s Column aren’t besieged by dating couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll, political demonstrations or street performers plying their trade. As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle. Also note that there is a tourist information office located here at number 1/13 (open everyday 10:0016:00).QF‑4, Plac Zamkowy, MRatusz Arsenał.

Plac Zamkowy and the Royal Castle at the entrance to the Old Town. Photo by Mike Mareen / Canva Pro

2 Royal Castle

Once again the pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.

Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski (aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’) are also open to the public, though a separate ticket is required (20/15zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun only), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition ‘From Destruction to Reconstruction’ details the castle’s resurrection after WWII rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Masterpieces, which has works by Rembrandt (separate ticket required, 30/20zł). Lastly, if you aren’t in the mood to explore the interiors, you must at least check out the gloriously free French Baroque Royal Gardens behind the castle (open daily until 20:00). Visiting time: 2hrs.

QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www. zamek krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Tin Roofed Palace is open Tue Sun, 10:00 17:00. Admission 40/30zł; kids and students with valid ID, 1zł; Wed free. U

3 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959.

Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

The ‘Grand Apartment’ of the Royal Castle.

4 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Krak ów Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, but you won’t see much of the Old Town centre, as the view is obscured by the high inner wall.QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

5 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.65) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

Around Warsaw’s iconic Barbican and the Old Town defenses in Autumn. Photo by Florentina Moisescu / Canva Pro

6 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican were restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. Pop inside to see a small exhibition (open 11:00-18:00, closed Mon; admission 6/4zł). QF‑3/4.

7 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses whose design dates back to the 17th century. The facades hide a treasure trove of decorative elements - keep an eye out for our favourite, the ‘House Under the Lion,’ which features frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our big interwar Polish artist crush - look her up) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today these tenements host numerous museums and cultural institutions - in fact the Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square - plus souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes, with ample outdoor

seating in the spring and summer. At number 27 you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest and most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.82).

During the 15th century the centre of the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it’s most famous feature is Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid. Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

8 Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, packaging and other items with representations of the Polish capital or symbols like the Warsaw Mermaid - all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the buildings themselves, which still retain many original elements, is also presented, and there’s also a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:00 18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł; Thu free. U­6

The famous Warsaw Mermaid on the Old Town Market Square. Photo by Ross Helen / Canva Pro

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt in the postwar years, Warsaw implemented a vision of its resurrected Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums, so instead of just staggering around, gawking at the architecture - go inside and learn something. The two largest, most significant and most worthvisiting museums (in our opinion) are the Royal Castle (p.32) - where you’ll get a feel for the city’s lost grandeur, and the Museum of Warsaw (p.34), where you’ll learn its history. Depending on your interests, however, you may be interested in one of these smaller, more niche museums nearby.

Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several creepy Beksiński paintings. More on p.60 Qul. Dziekania 1.

Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and antiquated toys. More on p.63.Qul. Podwale 15.

Old Town Heritage Interpretation

Centre: Go into these cellars for a deep dive on how Warsaw's Old Town went from ruin to the UNESCO List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar ‘apteka.’ Nominated for ‘European Museum of the Year 2022.’ More on p.62 Qul. Piwna 31/33.

World of Illusion: More attraction than museum, but a nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and you’ll go home with lots of fun photos. More on p.69.QRynek Starego Miasta 21.

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

To Lubię: Just steps north of the Barbican, this small cafe is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or something sweet, and they serve breakfast all day. More on p.75 Qul. Freta 8.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and happy hour specials make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. More on p.77. QWąski Dunaj 4/6/8.

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ More on p.78 QRynek Starego Miasta 12/14.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience. More on p.82 QRynek Starego Miasta 27.

Bar & Books: Open after 17:00, drop in this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whisky bar for an evening drink, and maybe catch some live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

9 Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill)

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom.

At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.

10 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked Cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true

Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the

Pedestrian passageway between ul. Brzozowa and ul. Jesuicka.

18th century (when it was built) were calculated based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4.

11 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights. As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudogothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army. It’s possible to visit the crypts Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 and Sun 15:00-17:00 at a cost of 5/3zł (closed during mass).

QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00 20:00; Sun 07:00 22:00.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.44).

The Kanonia ‘wishing bell.’ Photo by T. Nowak © City of Warsaw.

The Royal Route

Dawn breaks like a bleeding heart onto ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.32) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island (p.51), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.52) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.30) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. In the ‘Choose Your Adventure’ box at the end of the tour (p.42), you’ll find info on how to continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or advice on how to veer off towards other interests.

1 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St. Anne’s had survived war to find disaster around the corner. Escaping destruction during the Swedish Deluge (1655-1660), the church was the victim of arson only two years later. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, is the splendid viewing tower, the views from which are worth the 147-step climb (open 10:00-18:00; Sat,

Sun 11:00-18:00; 10/7zł). One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross in the Loreto Chapel. To learn how these two planks of wood nearly ripped the country apart in the summer of 2010, see our online piece on the Presidential Cross: iyp.me/71061 QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 07:00 18:30; Sat 15:00 18:30; Sun 10:00 21:00.

2 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century.

Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg.

Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.

QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21 23,

3 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski

A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. Rebuilt and frequently remodelled, at the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president (currently Andrzej Duda), which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Pisudskiego (p.26)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre (p.26) and on a path to Hala Gwardii and Hala Mirowska (p.26) - two massive indoor markets 1520mins on foot from where you’re standing.

4 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol (Qul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44). First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. The restored interior by worldrenowned designer Anita Rosato blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (Qul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘The Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities. By all accounts, they kept themselves busy tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar!QG‑5

5 The University of Warsaw

Warsaw Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before the university was established here in 1816. The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writers Witold Gombrowicz and Ryszard Kapuściński, and late Polish president Lech Kaczyński QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl

Warsaw’s luxurious Bristol Hotel with a golden autumn front!

6 Holy Cross Church

No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. As for the church itself, it originally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was finally rebuilt in 1696, with numerous additions and decorative touches to follow over the years. Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00 11:00, 13:00 16:00; Sun 14:00 16:00.

7 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in factgasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

DELICIOUS

ul. Nowy Świat

After crossing Świętokrzyska, Krakowskie

Przedmieście becomes Nowy Świat (G-7)Home to numerous bars and eateries, in addition to those below, you’ll find many more on the trendy side streets of ul. Chmielna and ul. Foksal

Bi Ba Bo: This nostalgic venue hearkens back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour with delicious coffee and Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. More on p.80 Qul. Nowy Świat 66.

Tehran: Experience the specialties (mutton, lamb) and exotic flavours (mint, rose, saffron) of Iran in this colourful eatery that exudes good energy. More on p.78 Qul. Gałczyńskiego 9.

Tokyo Sushi: A great pit stop with great value across their huge menu of sushi rolls, salads, ramen and hot dishes. More on p.78Qul. Nowy Świat 50.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Some say “the best dumplings in Warsaw” are here. Traditional Polish cuisine with an interior setting to match! More on p.77 Qul. Nowy Świat 41

Choose Your Adventure!

From the Palm Tree, Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues another 10km, past the Ujazdowski and Łazienki Parks, before it ultimately ends at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic or especially rewarding, Łazienki (p.48) and Wilanów (p.52) are both required for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. You can easily continue your tour to either from the Foksal 01 bus stop on ul. Nowy Świat. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116 or 180 and get off three stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take the same numbers, or catch the direct E-2 bus; get off at ‘Wilanów.’ Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live public transit connections.

If your feet aren’t too worn out, heading 300m down charming ul. Ordynacka (G-7) leads you direct to the Chopin Museum, where you’ll connect with our Powiśle district tour (p.44).

Alternatively, head west down pedestrianised ul. Chmielna - through the new Plac Pięciu Rogów (p.28) and past many a bar and restaurant - to reach the Palace of Culture (p.28) in about 10mins.

Of course you can always backtrack to the Metro to make a shortcut to the River Boulevards (p.45) or onward to Praga (p.54). Decisions!

Chopin Recitals

Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) was born 50km west of Warsaw, moving to the capital with his family as a baby. A prodigy from the start, he came to fame here before being exiled at age 20 due to the November Uprising of 1830. Walking down Warsaw’s Royal Route, Chopin-related sites are in abundance. In addition to Holy Cross Church and the Chopin Museum (a short walk down ul. Ordynacka, p.44), keep an eye out for several ‘Chopin Benches’ which explain the history of relevant sites and play a burst of the composer’s music at the touch of a button.

Live Chopin recitals are a popular tourist activity in Warsaw, and there are two points along the Royal Route where you can attend one. The first is Chopin Point on Plac Zamkowy (F-4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 87/89; Fri-Sun only at 19:00, 90/65zł), the second is Chopin Salon on ul. Smolna 14/7 (H-7, every day at 19:30, 60/40zł). If you’re here on a Sunday, pack a picnic and head to the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park (p.49) to hear free outdoor recitals at 12:00 and 16:00.

8 The Palm Tree

Wondering what a giant palm tree is doing in the middle of this roundabout? Modern art, my friends! In this case, a project called Greetings from Jerusalem by Polish artist Joanna Rajkowska, who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). The palm tree is actually a steel column specially designed to bend in the wind, covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Quite popular, the permanent installation reminds us of all the beautiful and exotic places we could be instead.QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy of Sciences

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

A former ticket office turned iconic bar - Warszawa Powiśle!. | Photo: Emilia Niedzwiedzka, unsplash

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the City Centre forced Warsaw’s students, artists, activists and small business owners to reconsider its potential. Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a real draw since 2002 with their lovely Library Rooftop Gardens (open from April until end of October), and the adjacent opening of the prestigious Copernicus Science Centre in 2009 invited further cultural investments (like the Museum of Modern Art), while also creating strong impetus for the city to connect the area via Metro (2015) and finally clean up and modernise the left bank river boulevards into a popular place for public recreation (completed in 2017). The massive redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (opened in 2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today, but despite increasing gentrification, Powiśle still maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic Warszawa Powiśle bar). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe, this museum was opened in 2010 - the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Four floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on the women in his life. In addition to dozens of touchscreens, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’ by personalising their own route. Your e-card ticket can be swiped at interactive exhibits, allowing you to hear music, stories or watch videos. 30min live concerts take place every Sat & Sun at 13:00 and 14:00 (28zł, includes museum admission). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/14zł; Wed free. U

2 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Possibly the second most famous statue of the city’s symbol. This 2.75m tall bronze monument near Świętokrzyski Bridge was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939. Her model was 23-year-old poet and ethnography student, Krystyna Krahelska, but allegedly Ludwika changed the facial features slightly to protect Krystyna’s modesty. Remarkably, it made it through WWII at this spot with only minor damage.

QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały Siedleckiego, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now not only a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, but also brimming with bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer monthsplus parks and leisure spaces. The area just north of the bridge has also become a cultural corridor and tourist lure thanks to a clutch of top attractions: the Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and the University Library Gardens (open April to October), as well as the Multimedia Fountain Park further north (F-3). It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe and as endemic to the identity and character of the capital as those in London or Paris, so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in town. One thing that makes Warsaw’s riverside especially unique is that while the boulevards of the left bank consist of concrete retaining walls, the entire breadth of the opposite shore has been left completely wild and undeveloped, making for a stark, fascinating and unusual contrast.QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

MARIENSZTAT

Centrum Nauki Kopernik

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

The Cool Cat: Exuding cool and all over the latest trends, this Asian-influenced bistro does everything from brunch, bao and ramen, to cocktails and natural wines. See p.75 QI 7, ul. Solec 38.

Nadwiślańskie Świt: A cult restobar in the former lobby of a 1960s hotel near the river, serving modern European dishes, lunch specials, craft beer, cocktails and retro vibes.QI 6, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33.

Warszawa Powiśle: This cult dive bar for hungover hipsters in a former train ticket office epitomises the local vibe, while offering allday breakfast, veggie eats and more.QI 7, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B.

LAS:  Refined with a lush edge, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus yummy cocktails.QI 7, ul. Solec 44

SAM Powiśle: A bakery and bistro that rises early to produce its own bread for their aromatic menu of stacked bagles, sandwiches, French toast and more. Put simply, an excellent breakfast option in Powiśle!QH 6, ul. Lipowa 7A

4 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, it was only a matter of time before the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. In keeping with current revitalisation trends, the postindustrial plot deftly mixes original architecture and design details with modern trends and convenience, including glass exterior elevators, 30m chimneys and original switchboards.

Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping with over 70 boutiques, 9 sitdown restaurants across the complex, plus a huge food hall with an additional 17 international food concepts and 3 bars. Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 300 cosmetic treatments from 10 salons. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Food Hall open 12:00 22:00, Fri 12:00 02:00, Sat 11:00 02:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. T­U­6­K­

The star of the robot theatre at Copernicus Science Centre (p.47). Photo by Centrum Nauki Kopernik.

5 Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe , and one of Warsaw’s top attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Check out the free rooftop garden , and don’t miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours and ticket). Visiting time: 3-4hrs. Q I‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl . Open 09:00 19:00, Fri 09:00 20:00; closed 1st Mon of every month. Planetarium open 10:00 19:30; Mon 10:00 15:30; Fri, Sat 10:00 21:00. Admission 37/25zł; Sat, Sun 39/26zł; planetarium 27/19zł. U

Post-apocalyptic vibes in the Warsaw Uni Library rooftop gardens.

7 Warsaw University Library

Rooftop Gardens

6 Museum on the Vistula

The Museum on the Vistula is a branch of the Warsaw Museum of Modern Art, and the current site of all the institution’s exhibitions while their new headquarters is being built on Plac Defilad (scheduled to open in 2023). Located on top of the Wisła’s riverside terraces, the eye-catching large white box of a building is actually a pavilion that was designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz and housed the Kunsthalle in Berlin from 2008-10. In 2017 it arrived in Warsaw with the caveat that the exterior be covered in artwork. Sławomir Pawszak won the contest for decorating the facade, and his colourful scribblings have adorned it since it opened. Inside you’ll find provocative exhibitions by international artists that challenge our notions on the nature of art, as well as the Paloma cafe/ bistro and a bookstore. Check out MoMA’s website for current/future exhibitions.QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Sat 11:00 20:00; Sun 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/5zł, kids under 7 free.

Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit the Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden affords panoramic views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping). While you’re there, we also highly recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free).QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl.

Open 08:00 18:00. Library open Mon Sat 08:00 22:00, Sun 15:00 20:00. Admission free.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.54) or the City Centre (p.24) via the handy riverside ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik’ M2 Metro station. Alternatively, walk north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.30) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is quite an attraction on weekend evenings; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

Zaruskiego

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its summer Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and bestknown attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics or cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. With so much to see and explore, don’t be surprised to find yourself spending most of a day here

Tickets & Info

Zwierzyniecka

While the park is free to wander, explore and enjoy, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. To ensure that your pockets don’t fill with litter, there is now one ticket which provides entry to all of the park’s paid sites, currently: the Palace on the Island, the Old Orangery, the Officer Cadets School, the White Pavilion and the Water Tower. The details of that ticket are below and all the corresponding sites have the same opening hours; tickets can be purchased at the park’s two information offices at the Old Orangery or the Officer Cadets School Note that the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship and the Botanical Garden have their own hours and require separate tickets.QH‑12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Park open 06:00 22:00. Indoor attractions open 10:00 16:00; Thu Sat 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket for attractions, 40/20zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł; Fri free.

What to See

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście - p.38). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the acclaimed work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.

Belvedere Palace

Getting There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 and 180 from the Old Town/Nowy Świat; get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. If you prefer tram, the ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej’ stop is only a 300m walk east down ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace; tram 4 gets you there from the Old Town or Royal Route, trams 10, 18 or 35 also make the trip from various points in the City Centre. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 178588 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours

King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, above the balcony boxes keen observers will notice the painted illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18th-century court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts.

The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the very beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous

sculptures from antiquity. 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery, against a painted backdrop by court artist Johann Christian Kamsetzer designed to give the visitor the feeling of a stroll through an alley of statues in an Italian garden. Visiting time: 30mins.

QI‑11.

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Given such lush scenery, it’s tempting to find a bench and do the same. Closed from November to FebruaryQH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00 17:00. Greenhouses open Fri Sun only, at the same hours as the park. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses),12/6zł (park only), kids under 7 free.

White Pavilion

This small villa was built in 1774, and was the first building King Stanisław August had erected on the grounds. Originally meant to be his summer residence, evidence suggests that the King’s sisters actually took up lodging here more than he did. Escaping WWII unscathed, the villa largely retains its original layout, lushly painted decor and period furnishings, and boasts a unique two-level roof

Temple of the Sybil (I-12), located to the east of Belvedere Palace (p.49). Photo by Paweł Czarnecki.

terrace. On the ground floor the Gallery of Prints displays selections from Ovid’s ‘Metamorphoses’part of the King’s personal collection of 4300 prints, from which only about half survive today. The building is open to the public from the beginning of May to the end of November only Visiting time: 20mins.QI‑11.

Palace on the Island

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre Originally built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the iconic structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Architecturally spectacular, the palace is lies on an island in the middle of a long narrow lake, and is connected to both shores by colonnaded bridges on each side. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears mythological figures. Today almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms, which appear in their original context, and the extravagant Baroque reception hall A major patron of the arts, in 1793 King Stanisław August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection of 2,289 works. Today 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

Officer Cadets School

In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building

constructed in a horseshoe plan. A smaller building which served as a kitchen for the Palace on the Island stood here in the 17th century. Seems it wasn’t large enough to serve King Stanisław August’s needs, so he expanded it into something called the ‘Great Annex’ in 1778, replete with apartments. Eventually it morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822, and it was from here that second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which escalated into the nationwide November Uprising of 1830-31. Today the building houses a tourist info centre and ticket office for all of the park’s attractions, as well as some small temporary exhibits Visiting time: 20mins.QJ‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If so, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables , built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories; the Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19th-century Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hr. Q J‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Open 10:00 16:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

White Pavilion

Wilanów

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25 35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Visitors should take note that, from October to February, the gardens become a colourful and festive luminous wonderland during the Royal Garden of Lights (p.71).QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl Open 09:00 19:00. In October: 09:00 16:00, November December 09:00 15:00. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a

Wilanów Palace and Gardens in all its Autumn glory! Photo by Drone in Warsaw / AdobeStock.

substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating.

Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www. wilanow palac.pl. Open 10:00 16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7 16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In

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the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 12:00; Sun 13:00 17:00.

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district. Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting –especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town. Getting here is easy: Hop on M2 Metro to MDworzec Wileński

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two prewar Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi. pl. Open 11:00 18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, permanent exhibit only 10/7zł, temporary exhibits 5/3zł; Thu free for perm exhibit. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

3 Praga Koneser Center

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the 5ha complex includes a tourist info point, the Polish Vodka Museum, the Magic Mind Museum, several art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars, plus shops and services amongst the apartments and offices (including Google headquarters). Host to frequent events and fairs, the premises are well worth exploring.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu U­K

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Praga Koneser Center, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are a few of the most emblematic hangouts in the ‘hood.

W Oparach

Absurdu: A shabby-chic boho hangout full of battered lampshades and oriental rugs, offering coffee, craft beer, cocktails and pierogi, plus frequent concerts and events.

QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 6.

3/4 Koneser Bar: Skip the museum and head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views. More on p.87.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 1.

Hydrozagadka: This scruffy surrealist nightclub in a Praga courtyard is where locals go to party hard, and anyone is welcome. Open Fri & Sat only, check FB for events. More on p.93 QJ 2, ul. 11 Listopada 22.

4 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. Audio guides/standard tours 49zł. 6

5 Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 17:00. Admission 16/13zł, kids under 6 free. U­6

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (p.62) | Photo by Anna Zagrodzka

Warsaw’s Most Exciting Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters.

When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.60.

1 Zachęta National Gallery of Art

Unmissable. One of the leading art galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Ask the locals what to do in Warsaw - they’ll send you here.

QSee p.62

2 Warsaw National Museum

Polish and European masters, Polish design, ancient African art and 5 decades of painting can all be found inside the exhibits of this stately museum.

QSee p.62.

3 Museum on the Vistula

Warsaw’s MoMA, right on the riverside in an eye-catching pavilion. Inside are provocative contemporary art exhibits by international artists.

QSee p.47.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and largescale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

4 Ujazdowski Castle

Contemporary art in a rebuilt palace. One of PL’s most prestigious and provocative art centres, with an extensive program of exhibits, performances, film screenings and more.QSee p.62

5 Neon Museum

Small, but brilliantly illuminating and highly photogenic, this museum displays hundreds of historical neon signs saved from destruction.QSee p.55.

6 BUW Gallery

Located in the Warsaw University Library, this gallery (and shop) showcases vintage and contemporary graphics by artists of the famous Polish Poster School. Very cool.QSee p.47.

A Close-up on Jewish Culinary Culture What’s Cooking?

Until December 12th

‘What’s Cooking?’ - the new temporary exhibition at the POLIN Museum looks at Jewish cuisine across the globe and throughout history, examining how typical Jewish dishes are prepared and the meanings they carry.

‘You are what you eat,’ as they say, but more than being a reminder of the importance of healthy eating habits, this common phrase aptly implies that food is inherently tied to identity. When it comes to Jewish identity, culinary culture has always reinforced and enhanced the sense of belonging to a wider community, while also highlighting Jewish diversity and distinctiveness. As this exhibition reveals, the story of Jewish cuisine is simultaneously the story of Jewish religion, culture and history.

At the root of Jewish cuisine is the religious foundation that holds it together - kashrut - and its strict rules for preparing meals. By understanding these religious dietary laws we see how they have informed the creation of certain dishes, alongside other influences such as the specific products available in an area, or the culinary traditions of neighbouring cultures.

The exhibition presents a variety of Jewish dishes from across the diaspora, looking at their origins and how they became widespread as a result of numerous migrations, from the Middle Ages to the great waves of migration in the 19th and 20th centuries.

If you’ve ever wondered what potato pancakes have in common with latkes, how Polish gołąbki differ from holishikes, how chulent differs from adafina, or why New Yorkers consider pickled gherkins and borscht Jewish food - this exhibit not only asks, but answers these hard-hitting questions.

Finally, we see how some people are breaking away from Jewish cooking traditions today, while others are rediscovering their culinary roots. It all goes to demonstrate just how diverse and difficult to define Jewish culinary traditions are.

With all this talk about food, it should be noted that POLIN is one of the best places in town to taste Jewish cuisine. The buffet of the museum’s wonderful Warsze restaurant offers dozens of rich and aromatic dishes based on traditional Jewish recipes (including kosher options) every day. A culinary journey back to pre-war Warsaw, the current exhibit makes us more excited to eat here than ever. L’chaim!QD‑4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, www.polin.pl Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Admission 20/15 zł.

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

09.09 - 01.12 » Masterpieces for the king?

Rubens, van Dyck, Teniers the Younger from the collection of Dulwich Picture Gallery

An small but extremely important exhibition of outstanding works from some of the greatest 17th and 18th-century Flemish, Dutch and Italian masters of painting, sourced from the collections of London’s prestigious Dulwich Picture Gallery. While they may have been produced on the other side of the continent, the works on display have a very unique connection to Poland. Prior to the Dulwich’s acquisition, these works had been purchased by Noël Desenfans, a French-born art dealer who had found himself in the employment of King Stanisław II August Poniatowski, the last king of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth. However, Poniatowski’s subsequent abdication and death in 1798 meant that the collection could not be finalised, and were thus sold onwards. Now, 200+ years later, these paintings are on display in Poland for the first time ever!QJ‑11, Officer Cadets School, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, Admission 20/10zł; Fri free., www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Closed Mon.

15.09 - 29.01 » We Didn’t Have a Lucky Star, We Lit Our Own. Warsaw Herstories

The latest exhibition at the Rynek 30 Gallery recounts the ‘herstories’ of twelve Warsaw women, who contributed to changes in the city’s social, political and cultural life. These include the brave women who hid Jews in the Warsaw Zoo during the Holocaust, the early 20th-century female journalist who founded capital’s first bookbinding workshop solely operated by women, the legendary nude model of the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts, and the ambitious female athletes who hailed from Polonia Warszawa. Prepared by students of the Faculty of Visual Culture Management at Warsaw’s Academy of Fine Arts with the Museum of Warsaw’s collection, supplemented by items from surviving family members.QF‑4, Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, Admission to permanent exhibit 20/15zł; temporary exhibit 12/7zł; all exhibits 25/18zł; students and kids with valid ID 5zł; Thu free., www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Mon.

07.10 - 06.11 » Jan Wyżykowski

‘War and non-peace’

A series of 36 expressive works by Polish painter Jan Wyżykowski, created as a direct response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine. The artist is a Warsaw native, born in 1956 and a gratuate from the city’s Academy of Fine Arts. A recognised name in Polish art, Wyżykowski has not been exhibiting much in the last 20 years, having purposefully slowed down the pace of work. In this rare exhibition of his, Wyżykowski reveals clear inspiration from classic anti-war artworks from the likes of Callot and Goya, with scenes and motifs directly related to the drama of war, with an emphasis on suffering. Wyżykowski’s style favours simplified shapes, with a contrasting textures to emphasise millitary aggression and victimhood. Highly recommended!QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 10/5zł., www.u jazdowski.pl.

“In the ballerina’s dressing room, 1950s” Photo by Edward Hartwig / Museum of Warsaw

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.60

Archdiocese Museum

This Old Town Museum showcases over 20,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today, and surprises with its wealth of secular art. Split into the Sacred and the Profane, the former includes liturgical objects, paintings and sculptures of Jesus, Mary and the saints, plus personal items of Stefan Wyszyńskiformer Primate of Poland. The latter includes lots of furniture, clocks, sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists such as Malczewski, Hofman and even Beksiński. One highlight is entering the ‘Royal Corridor’ (aka the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr. QG‑4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, www.maw.art.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 16:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł. U

Katyń Museum

Found in the Warsaw Citadel - a massive 19th century fortress - this museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of their names need no explanation, while the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and the entire event’s historical relevancy are well thought-out and thoroughly moving. Visiting time: 2hrs.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 26 187 83 42, www.muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00 16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guided tours (EN, PL) 90 300zł. Audioguides (EN, PL, DE, FR, RU) 15zł. U

See Jan Matejko’s epic masterpiece ‘The Battle of Grunwald’ at Warsaw National Museum (p.64). Photo © City of Warsaw.

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House - the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys

A small, charming and antiquated museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 4560mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00 19:00. Tickets 30/22zł; kids under 1m tall, free.

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 24/16zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

National Ethnographic Museum

Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time (check online for details). Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 14/7zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children). U

NBP Money Centre

Though it may look uninspiring from the outside, inside the HQ of the National Bank of Poland lies one of Warsaw’s best museums - and it’s free! Okay, we know, the airport-style security is a bit much, and economics is not the most enticing topic, but hear us out: this super-modern and fantastically interactive journey through the history of world commercefrom ancient civilisations to the present day - is great fun for both kids and adults. Along the way you’ll explore a walk-in safe, get to hold a real bar of gold (heavier than you think!) and learn how to spot fake banknotes. Recommended. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs. QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 11/21, MNowy Świat

Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 185 25 25, www.cpnbp.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Thu 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. U

The ‘Maluch’ - Poland’s famously mini ‘family car,’ on display in the Museum of Life under Communism.

Photo F. Kwiatkowski © City of Warsaw.

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfold.ed Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to do even minor tasks, next is a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). An eye-opening experience that will make you think about what you take for granted, to visit book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 35/31zł; Sat, Sun 39/34zł. N

Pharmacy Museum

This charming Old Town museum presents the quaint interior of an interwar pharmacy filled with glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. Inside you’ll get a healthy dose of history about medicine, poison and narcotics. Although niche, it really is a wonderful visit; in fact, a recent refurbishment resulted in a nomination for European Museum of the Year 2022 Visiting time: 45mins.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 31/33, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 71 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Thu free.

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. The castle also houses a very good bookshop, a fantastic cinema (U-Jazdowski Kino) and a top-notch restaurant/café, plus it’s surrounded by a lovely park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibits; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; project room 5zł; students up to 26, 1zł; Thu free. U

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallerythe latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26, 1zł; Tue free. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissancestyle palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 60-90mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego

3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free.

Vial predicament at the Pharmacy Museum

Jewish Warsaw

The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN.

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide (p.2, p.25). At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in

guerilla warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

Worth Visiting Anielewicz Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.

QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under seige in 1943, the vast and carefully organised archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List. In the permanent exhibit here you will see the original documents of the Archive, the authentic containers and more. Incredibly powerful and important, if you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Tue 09:00 20:00; Fri 09:00 16:00; Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Sat. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits (currently ‘What’s Cooking?’see p.58) are of such quality that they require their own ticket, and the museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside the museum visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Perm. exhibit 30/20zł; temp. exhibit 20/15zł; students and kids 7 26 1zł; kids under 7 free; Thu free. Audioguide 12zł. U

Okopowa Jewish Cemetery (B-4) in the Wola district. Photo by Fotokon / Adobestock.

Warsaw Uprising

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

© City of Warsaw

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audiguide is handy (follow the numbers even if you don’t have one). Crowded on weekends, weekdays are the best time to visit, and you should set aside several hours for the experience.

Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.

Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs. QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł/person.

U

The Old Town Market Square

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Hulakula Leisure Centre

This modern indoor family entertainment centre has it all. Strut you stuff on one of their 28 10-pin bowling lanes, break balls on one of 8 LEO Black King billiard tables, or go old-school with their classic arcade games, pinball machines and air hockey tables. There’s a soft-toy toddler zone, plush castle maze playground for older kids, restaurant, bar, seasonal grill and even DJ parties after the kids go home.Qul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula. com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Wed 12:00 01:00; Thu 12:00 02:00; Fri 12:00 03:00; Sat 10:00 03:00; Sun 10:00 23:00. U

Stacja Grawitacja

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe. Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.

Thai Bali Spa

Thai Bali Spa continues a 2000-year-old tradition of massage therapy which aids in keeping the mind, body and soul healthy. Choose from traditional, oriental massages that use appropriate lighting, plus music, smell and touch to put you in a state of deep relaxation and tranquility. The skilled massage therapists - all of whom hail from Thailand or Bali - will have you feeling fresh and rejuvenated in no time. Also at ul. Grzybowska 3 (E-7).QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 663 55 11 22, www.thaibalispa.pl. Open 11:00 21:00.

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 12 bowling lanes and 3 billiards tables, all serviced with a bar (also an activity for many) that also dishes out Neapolitanstyle pizza. Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start warszawa. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 22:00.

World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! Pefect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photo-ops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 35/27zł. 6

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops (offered Tue-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Show the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide or map to receive an 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.

Kids & Families

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.30) or Łazienki (p.48) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre, but also the University Library Rooftop Gardens (both p.47) and Multimedia Fountain Park (F-3) further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the evening during autumn and winter, the Wilanów Royal Garden of Light is strongly recommended for local families (p.71).

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.67), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the NBP Money Centre (p.61), Museum of Dollhouses (p.61) and Photoplasticon (p.71) are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.

Panoramic viewpoints are also a winner with kids, so in addition to those at the Rising Museum and University Gardens, check out St. Anne’s tower (p.38) near Plac Zamkowy, and the viewing terrace on the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture & Science (p.28).

Pinball Station

Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the days before every whippersnapper on the block had a gaming console in their blue jeans, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those pre-digital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 100 working machines you can actually play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 22:00. Admission 45/39zł; kids under 12, 29zł

In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.68) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?) from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images of times, places and people long gone. Visiting time: 20mins.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Warsaw Zoo

Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (p.66), he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Sat 09:00 19:00. Admission 30/20zł.

Wilanów Royal Garden of Light

To bring a little cheer to cold autumn and winter evenings (and some appeal to an otherwise grey garden), October through to February sees the gardens around Wilanów Palace (p.52) become a colourful and festive wonderland of lights, as literally thousands of tiny LED lights trace the baroque contours of the sculptures, gardens and plants. One of Warsaw’s most beloved holiday traditions, the Royal Garden of Light is a must see! Each year, the designs change, though you can always rely on hearing a regular light show synced to the music of Chopin! Note that the last entrance to the gardens is at 20:30.QP‑2, Wilanów Park and Gardens, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.wilanow palac.pl. Open 16:00 21:00. Tickets Mon Thu 20/5zł, Fri Sun 40/10zł; children under 7 free.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math).

Drink, dance and dine with an indomitable latino flair at Baila in Browary Warszawskie! (p.26).

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a lookin as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00.

QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl.

Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€.

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U Kucharzy w Arsenale utensils Polish

Located in a 17th-century building once used as a royal arms warehouse, this long-running restaurant boasts a contemporary interior infused with greenery, while still highlighting the space’s historic elements. The kitchen staff, a talented crew of gastro wizards, operate on a huge island in the middle, and watching these masters prepare your meal is good theatre, creating a unique dining environment for enjoying the exquisite Polish cuisine, including lots of courtly game dishes, rich soups and fresh fish.

QE‑5, ul. Długa 52, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 885 88 61 50, www.ukucharzy.pl

Open 12:00 22:00. €€€.

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Breakfast & Brunch

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird that’s tired of eating worms, or a late riser that overdid it a bit last night, get a good first feed in the places listed here.

Być Może

Start your day with the aroma of coffee and croissants in this sophisticated French bakery/bistro in the heart of Powiśle. Filling breakfasts include their fresh-baked bread and are served all day. Choose from stacked bagel sandwiches, shakshuka, French toast, loaded oatmeal, granola or chia pudding bowls, or their take on the notorious Croque Madame. When it comes to our tastes, the poached egg (something we’ll never master at home) reigns supreme, and is featured in several hearty sets (Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine) we’re working our way through, and then later working off via walks along the river. Find a second location at ul. Bagatela 14 near Łazienki Park (H-12).QI‑6, ul. Dobra 22/24, tel.

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino

croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes

since trendy Charlotte slings all day breakfast. All ingredients are sourced locally, and vary depeneding on the season. Their chocolates and jams are made with home recipes, giving that extra dose of niceness. Also found at ul. Próżna

Chaud Pain

lovely French bakery and a rare encounter with

French-language pun: Chaud Pain (Hot Bread)

like the last name of Warsaw’s darling,

Indulge your sweetest desires with the dreamy confectionary and patisserie of Deseo in Browary Warszawskie (p.26)

Fryderyk Chopin. This airy boulangerie just off Krakowskie Przedmieście churns out artisanal breads, baguettes, croissants, pastries and other baked deliciousness. Some of their creations are turned into tasty sandwiches, which you can grab to go or enjoy at their counters with a cup of good coffee. There’s even a delicatessen section with high-quality caviar, canned seafood, meats, cheeses and more. Très chic.

QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 797 01 29 41, www.chaudpain.pl.

Open 08:30 19:00; Sat 09:00 19:00; Sun 08:30 18:00.

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Croque Madame

A mighty fine French-style cafe, bakery and cake shop which neatly manages to walk the difficult line of being neither too trendy nor too old-fashioned, attracting a nice mix of customers as a result. The beautiful interior is all delicate whites and pale greys and the attention to every detail is immediately noticeable. Enjoy an all-day breakfast (Polish & French style), soups, entrees, freshly made sandwiches and light and colourful salads while marvelling at the daily selection of cakes and sweets. Whatever you decide to order (it’s not easy), it all comes simply, yet perfectly presented, served by staff who genuinely seem be as pleased as their customers to be there.

QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 531 43 13 00. Open 09:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 23:00. B­6

SAM Powiśle

At this stellar bakery/bistro it all starts with their own artisanal bread, which forms the basis for many of their breakfast options (served all day), including stacked bagels, sandwiches, French toast and more. But SAM offers a wide menu of delicious, diverse and healthy dishes, including many vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options, plus vitamin-rich juice cocktails. Taking their healthy philosophy further, everything they offer is all natural and made from scratch. With such strong credentials, and a location next to the University Library, you can bet it’s popular, so don’t be surprised by slow service at peak times; the full house of hipsters let’s you know it’s worth the wait. Also at ul. Twarda 4 (Plac Grzybowski, E-7).QH‑6, ul. Lipowa 7A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 08:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 22:00.

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their own vegan mayo and kimchi - they even sell shaksouka in a jar! In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. The best time to visit is all the time, but especially on weekends, when epic 37zł brunches are served until 14:00 (don’t sleep on this one!). They also have weekday lunch specials for only 30zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. Honestly, there’s no reason not to be here. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00 21:00; Fri 10:00 22:00; Sat 09:30 22:00; Sun 09:30 21:00.

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To Lubię

Escape just beyond the medieval confines of the Old Town walls to find this charmingly twee cafe specialising in coffee, cakes, quiche and delicious fruit crumbles. If you enjoy Kraków’s cosy cafe culture, this spot is right up that alley, as opposed to the capital’s overabundance of postindustrial spaces with modern, minimal furnishings. When it comes to indulging in aromatic coffee and rich cakes, we’ll take the former. Breakfast is served all day, as well as wraps and some savoury snacks. In winter this is a great spot for wrapping up in a blanket and drinking some hot cocoa or warm mead. The name translates to ‘I like this’ and indeed we do.QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00 22:00. 6

The Cool Cat

One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of

Exceptionally-made coffee and breakfast bites at ETNO Cafe in Browary Warszawskie

Casual dining

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Bez Tytułu

utensils International

This upscale casual restaurant is all about sharing food and experiences. The vibe is cosy and intimate, while the regularly changing menu, composed by Chef Piotr Ceranowicz, is filled with small and large dishes designed to be shared by diners. Choose from unique and memorable flavour pairings like wild mushroom risotto with truffle and duck breast with beetroot and plum; the inventive cocktail list is just as intriguing (sake with gin and aloe, anyone?). The hospitality is also strong here, and they’ll stay open until you’re ready to leave, but note that the kitchen closes at 23:45.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 516 03 31 24, www.beztytulu.com. Open 17:00 23:45; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. X­T­6

Symbol & Price Key

Browar Warszawski

utensils International

The revamped Warsaw Brewery is one of the largest, most modern brewpubs in the region, producing 19 craft beers on site, from contemporary IPAs to legacy ales from the days of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery. Choosing is hard, so try a tasting set. The menu is tailored to complement your liquid meal, and includes a truffle burger, fresh seafood, platters from the Josper grill, plus veggie options, signature cocktails and single malt whiskys. The post-industrial interior has plenty of intimate spaces, and also gives you a peak at the brewing process. All around, phenomenal!QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 799 00 00 21, www. browarwarszawski.com. Open 16:00 24:00; Fri 16:00 01:00; Sat 13:00 01:00; Sun 13:00 24:00. €€€. B­E

€ most mains under 25zł

most mains 25-45zł

most mains 45-75zł

most mains 75-115zł

most mains over 115zł

High-quality cuts of mouthwatering bovine steak at Beef n’ Pepper (p.73)

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square, Ciao Napoli brings a little slice of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. With their maiden location nearby at Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4), this bigger locale boasts more seating, a larger kitchen and expanded menu, with all the friendly cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering antipasti, salads, seafood and more, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which keep us coming back. With fresh mussels every Thursday, weekday lunch specials (12:00-16:00), weekday happy hours (16:0019:00), and your 2nd bottle of Prosecco half price on weekends, there are a number of enticing reasons to choose Ciao. It’s shockingly affordable and you’ll leave satisfied.QF‑3, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw

utensils International

Making a hotel more than just a place for its sleepover guests, NYX has created an inviting firstfloor space where urban art and culture collide, and anyone can drop in. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery, plus edgy photography and street art installations. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00, and don’t be surprised to hear live bands or a DJ dialling up the vibes.QD/E‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo hotels.com/nyx hotel warsaw. Open 14:30 23:00. €€€. T­U­E­6

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi

utensils Polish

You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-wompki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 41 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie

Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri 11:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem

utensils Polish

Located directly between the Royal Castle and the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi (15 types), potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. With a tidy, colourful interior and fast service, the experience is easy, accessible and satisfying.

QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri 11:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Namaste India

utensils Indian

Over sixteen years ago, what began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store quickly developed by demand into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway, because it’s often packed! Private rooms are available for events.

QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. B

Pizza Lecentano

utensils Italian

This cheerful pizzeria could more appropriately be called ‘Pizza Pizzazz.’ Lecentano offers a more casual, family eatery inside the former brewing cellars of Browary Warszawskie. Now seemingly above-ground thanks to the clever design of the complex, the Mediterranean sun seems to shine through this place, which offers creative pizzas, handmade pastas and delicous desserts for life’s daily celebrations around the table. The pies are fired and served fast from a traditional pizza oven, and all base ingredients are imported straight from Italia, as are the speciallyselected wines. Lecentano also offers signature cocktails from the adjacent whiskey bar, and a special interactive playroom for kids, who will also get a kick out of the pizzamaster tossing the dough!QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 797 73 76 33, www.browarywarszawskie.com. pl/pizza lecentano. Open 12:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 22:00. T­B­E

Tehran Restaurant

utensils Middle Eastern

Experience new tastes and celebrate Warsaw’s multiculturalism in Tehran - the capital’s only authentic Persian restaurant. This popular diner has won the adoration of locals with their beautiful, large portions of exotic Iranian specialities. The menu features lots of grilled mutton and lamb, halal kebab and eggplant paste, flavoured with mint, rose, pomegranate and saffron (don’t miss the Persian ice cream!). Vegan, halal and kosher restrictions can be easily accommodated, there’s a terrace and to top it all off, they are just the nicest damn people, you can’t suppress the good vibes. For the full effect, do your digesting with a traditional shisha pipe and a cocktail.QG‑7, ul. Gałczyńskiego 9, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 537 10 02 51, www.tehran kuchniaperska.pl. Open 12:00 21:00. €€€. B­S­V­6

The Alchemist Grzybowska

utensils International

We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020). While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards, fresh seafood and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Absolutely perfect for any and every occasion. Also at Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 (F-5).QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 375 92 22, www.thealchemist. pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. €€. B­6

Tokyo Sushi

utensils Japanese

Located right on Nowy Świat (with a lovely seasonal terrace, plus additional locales in the Blue City and Galeria Mokotów shopping malls), Tokyo Sushi is a great place to take a break from shopping or sightseeing for a healthy and filling lunch. The menu is absolutely exhaustive, encompassing almost any kind and combination of sushi you could desire, plus soups, salads, sashimi, gunkan, tartar, hot dishes with rice and 650ml bowls of ramen. If you can’t decide what you want, simply grab what looks good (everything?!) from the ready-made sushi rolls and salads going by on the conveyor; each is colourcoded by price from 8-15zł. Many value deals pop up in the afternoon - including weekends - and the sheer volume of food being served ensures that all the ingredients are exceptionally fresh. QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 50, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 15 89, www.tokyosushi.com.pl. Open 11:00 23:00. €€€. T­B­V­6

U Barssa utensils Polish

The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. They also have a huge summer garden, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri 11:00 23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 23:00. €€€.

T­B

Catch your lunch before someone else does at Tokyo Sushi.

Vegan & Vegetarian

As the capital of a country that traditionally feasts on meat, and smears lard on bread as a snack, you might be surprised to learn that in 2021 National Geographic named Warsaw the top city for vegans in the world

Lokal Vegan Bistro

This humble restaurant run by the ‘Margins’ Social Cooperative has achieved what not long ago was considered by many to be inconceivable: their hearty vegan variations of traditional Polish dishes are as, if not more, delicious than their meat-and-egg-based counterparts. That’s quite an accomplishment in a country that fed itself in ‘milk bars’ not so long ago. Alongside seitan, soy and cabbage ‘cutlets’ on their frequently changing menu, you’ll also find vegan versions of popular dishes from international cuisines, plus a few surprises. Large portions, fresh ingredients and low prices make this a great option for a healthy meal, but it’s also a great place to connect with Warsaw’s activist communities.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www.lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00 21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 22:00. €€. T­U­B­6

Tel Aviv Urban Food

Opened in 2010, Tel Aviv was one of the first strictly vegan restaurants in PL, earning a cult following and launching a franchise that now has several locations around the capital. This - their original foray into Middle Eastern-inspired vegan street food - remains a popular bastion of foodie culture and social consciousness. Drop in early for sweet baghrir (Maghreb pancakes), take advantage of their generous weekday lunch offer from 12:00-16:00, munch on mezze, inhale their hummus and uncork with some wine. There’s also a decent kids’ menu. Doing well to show that vegan cuisine can be rich, exotic and visually stunning, this place has earned its accolades. Note that though they are open later, the kitchen closes at 22:00 (23:00 on Fri, Sat). However, if they have a lot of customers, they will typically be open later.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 621 11 28, www.telaviv.pl. Open 10:00 00:30; Fri, Sat 10:00 02:00; Sun 10:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - test ing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

BI BA BO Restaurant & Cafe

utensils Polish

This oddly-named restaurant refers back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour, grace and fame, when ul. Nowy Świat was the capital’s entertainment epicentre - home to dozens of cabarets, theatres and cinemas. One of the most famous cabarets was ‘Bi Ba Bo’ - a place where you might hear Szpilman play piano or see Pola Negri dance with snakes. Looking to embody the ‘Roaring 20s’ of a new century, this incarnation of Bi Ba Bo pays homage to the past while meeting the modern demands of an eclectic and cultured clientele. Indulge in coffee or spirits in a nostalgic interior decorated with period sheet music and theatre posters, or try delicious Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. Bi Ba Bo has designed a winning dining experience not by just creating an environment of good taste, but by encapsulating an entire era.QG‑6/7, ul. Nowy Świat 66, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 513 51 97 77, www.bibabo.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Tue 17:00 22:00; Sun 12:00 18:00; closed Mon. €€€.

Epoka

utensils Polish

This fine food experience in the Europejski luxury hotel comes courtesy of ‘Top Chef Poland’ winner

Marcin Przybysz, whose modern interpretations of traditional Polish cuisine can be rivalled by few. Offering Krótkie Historie (Short Stories) and Historie (Stories) tasting menus, both play on the Polish word’s connotation to ‘history,’ taking diners on a creative culinary journey in which each dish represents a different epoch (hence the name, Epoka ) of Poland’s past, and is paired with wine by the professional sommeliers. The gleaming interiors simply ooze elegance and are worth a look even if you can’t stay for the full experience. Perfect for a pre-theatre meal or making someone feel very special, you won’t be underwhelmed. Note that though they stay open late, the kitchen closes at 21:30. Q G‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 666 11 55 66, www.epoka.restaurant . Open 18:00 24:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€€. T­U­6

The adapted historic interior of Rest. Baczewskich (p.16), who serve an exquisite modern interpretation of Galician cuisine.

Klonn

utensils International

Nature, food and art intersect at this lovely restaurant enviably located metres from Ujazdowski Castle. The owners have brought their knack for design to the artsy, elegant interiors, while the outside seating envelops a 200-year-old tree. Head chef Michał Gniadek, awarded by Michelin and Gault & Millau, creates exquisite dishes out of fresh, seasonal ingredients, many of which are designed for sharing. The octopus is particularly buttery and delicious, there are dishes for children, and the wine list is truly excellent. Honestly, a visit here is so rewarding, it makes a trip to the nearby museums and parks that much more enticing. Don’t miss it.QH‑11, ul. Jazdów 1B, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 100 63 63, www.klonn.pl. Open 17:00 22:00; Sat 12:00 22:00; Sun 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. €€€. T­B­E­6

PAM PAM Restaurant

utensils International

Hands down one of the best places we’ve been to in recent memory. Found on the stylish ul. Emilii Plater (modern, vibrant, with a touch of pre-war class), PAM PAM had us intrigued as we walked in - a mix of classic elegance with post-industrial bare brick, and a more private, even cosy back room. The entire place has a certain sophistication to it, which is matched by the premium menu. Relax, and let the very professional wait staff do their business - ever so helpful. Special mention must also go to head chef Paweł Rumowski, whose artistic flare is visible in all of the creative and light, but filling, dishes that will glide their way to your table. Stylish food, in both taste and presentation, PAM PAM is a classy setting for business lunches and/or couples enjoying an intimate night out.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.pampam.com.pl. Open 17:00 22:00; Sat 15:00 22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. B

Emilii Plater

KITCHEN

TASTE

ATMOSPHERE

PAM PAM - Where elegance and post-industrial meet!

Seafood Station Restaurant & Oyster Bar

utensils Seafood

Just metres from the train station, this large, classy restaurant offers fresh, exquisite seafood combined with locally-sourced ingredients for one of the best meals in town. Enjoy Oysters Rockefeller, lobster, king crab, grilled tuna steak or traditional fish and chips, accompanied with wine, beer or a classic cocktail. The spacious, industrial design features an open kitchen, mezzanine, marble tables and regal touches galore, while rooting its inspiration in working class fish markets (lots of tile). The food may be simple, but the ingredients are simply top-notch and really emphasise the bounty of the sea. A feast fit for Neptune!QD/E‑9, Aleje Jerozolimskie 93, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 660 22 66, www.seafoodstation.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. U­B­6

SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar

utensils Asian

High-end fusion cooking and fancy cocktails are the name of the game at this elegant, modern establishment. The menu draws inspiration from the whole of Asia, offering appetising dishes that include salmon tartare with mango and avocado, Saint James’ baked mussels, octopus with turnips, and beef tenderloin with oyster sauce. Make sure to ‘swing’ by on Fri & Sat after 19:00 to see this venue live up to its name, as retro jazz concerts juice the crowd. Aside the fun on offer for weekends nocturnals, Swing is also ideal for all sorts of celebrations.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 31, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 667 98 88 88, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. €€€. E­6

U Fukiera

utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century. Under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson - suggests that indeed you are. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T­B­6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas

utensils Japanese

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating), so Wabu is very much a place for all walks of life! The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, blending in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:0015:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€.

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Rest. Baczewskich utensils Polish

Taking its name from the Baczewski noble family of old Polish Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), the concept of this restaurant aims to revive and continue the spirit of interwar Poland, a time of optimism in art, culture and cuisine. More specifically, however, head chef Dmitriy Babak and his team have drawn inspiration from the historic region known as Galicia (where Lviv is located) and fused its culinary traits with numerous others from Poland and further abroad. This is one of Warsaw's most highly-regarded restaurants, and the quality of food, service and atmosphere here is nothing short of exceptional! Highly recommended! Read more about Rest. Baczewskich on p.16. QH 11, Aleja Jana Chrystiana Szucha 17, MPolitechnika, tel. +48 888 52 26 68, www.baczewskich.rest. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€€. T­U­B­6

Food Markets

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Essentially an upscale urban shopping mall, EP also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. The central food court offers 13 street food stalls and 7 restaurants, plus there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite. You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their bars - Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk - and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.

QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com

Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 02:00; Sat 11:00 02:00; Sun 11:00 22:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p. 26 ). With 13 different contemporary food concepts to choose fromranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including special breakfast and lunch offers. The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with craft beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table and get socializing. Q C‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl

Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00.

The ultra-trendy Food Hall in the revitalised brewery complex of Browary Warszawskie (p.26)

Hala Gwardii

The grimier twin number of Hala Mirowska - its adjacent neighbour to the west (p.26) - these two enormous brick buildings were built as market halls at the turn of the century. Miraculous survivors of WWII, while Mirowska quickly returned to its function as a vast indoor market where you can buy almost anything, Hala Gwardii served as a bus depot, eventually becoming a sports hall and home to the ‘Gwardia’ Policemen’s Sports Club - hence the name. Today it still features a boxing ring, small boxing museum and portraits of Polish boxing legends on the walls, but since 2017 has returned to a modern version of its roots - as an eclectic indoor food hall and hipster marketplace focused on local and organic products The neglected exterior gives it an alternative edge, while inside you have dozens of the city’s top gastro concepts to choose from, plus coffee, alcohol and other drinks, as well as a market of local food products. Worth checking out each weekend for frequent food festivals and other very cool events.QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00; Sun 10:00 21:30 only. 6

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. One of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere

availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Don’t forget to look up, down and sideways as beautiful details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00.

Ogrody Ulricha

Located in the lush green parkland of Warsaw’s Wola District, Ogrody Ulricha (Ulrich Gardens) is a collection of revitalised 19th-century buildings and grounds - the Ulrich Greenhouses and Park, the Daily Garden, Ulrich’s Villa and the Green Cottage - all revived as a charming community complex with the spirit and nostalgia of a bygone era. Once housing a collection of otherworldly plant life, one of two Greenhouses now houses the all-important gastro zone, with 2 central bars, 2 gastronomic points and 6 restaurant concepts. Not only limited to the indoors, the parkland outside will also be made available for those choosing to dine in the open air. Keep in mind, however, that Ogrody Ulricha is not only for dining and drinking. These newly-opened grounds are also a shared entertainment and educational facility. Live music and theatre are set to become common place. Children, young families and the young-at-heart can roll around on the grass outside and take in the green surroundings. While it may have an old soul, Ogrody Ulricha has been amended with modern resources and a 21st-century mindset, continuing the story of this historic area and doing what it has always done best - serving the community as a vibrant public space!Qul. Górczewska 124, MUlrychów, www.ogrodyulricha.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 20:00.

Ogrody Ulricha’s lush green gastro space, a revitalised 19th-century Greenhouse in the Wola district.

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (H/I-4); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

The mesmerising art of mixology to be uncovered at The Alchemist Metropolitan (p.90).

Pepper Night Club

Lurking about in the centre of Warsaw’s urban jungle, the beast that is Pepper Night adds a dose of spiciness to the untamed nightlife of the Polish capital. The unique atmosphere of its sophisticated interior coupled with a stunning year-round garden is perfectly complemented by a cocktail bar of the highest calibre. It’s not the only thing that will drive your senses and inhibitions to the wildest and most-euphoric heights. Throughout the night, a menu of indecently delicious food is in constant operation - something of a ‘forbidden fruit’ that other establishments of such measure dare not touch! The impressive kitchen, operated by one of Warsaw’s highest-level gastro team, is open literally all night, so you need not worry about going without! Until the early hours, Pepper Night will awaken your body with the strength of the beat - the best music straight from the DJ console.

QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.peppernight.pl.

Open 23:30 05:00; Fri, Sat 23:30 06:00; closed Mon, Sun.

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3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum, this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and they also host live music from time to time. Na zdrowie.

QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.com

Open 14:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 02:00; Sun 14:00 20:00; closed Mon. U­B­6

AURA Bar

Cocktail Bar

Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an ‘Old-Fashioned’ is your go-to bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve 11 unique varieties of the classic drink. Refreshingly relaxed, but clearly refined, great things come in small packages.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 791 88 81 98. Open 17:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00. B­6

Cuda na Kiju

Multi-tap Bar

Housed in the former communist party HQ, just next to the statue of General Charles De Gaulle, this 3-level bar was Warsaw’s first multitap and boasts an impressive 16 taps pouring craft beers from around Poland and Europe, plus pizza for your late-night feed. The interior design is unobtrusive and kept to a minimum, making for a nice and airy atmosphere, and features three outdoor seating areas. The owners should really be given a special prize for this brilliant initiative; instead, in true Warsaw tradition, they quickly got dozens of copycat bars. Still, we stay true to our firstlove multi-tap bar. Q H‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 784 48 97

27. Open 12:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00; Sun 12:00 24:00.

E

Keeping

classy for your sophisticated tastes! - Executive Lounge in Browary Warszawskie (p.26).

El Koktel

Cocktail Bar

Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with performative flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named Gin Dobry), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted.QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego

9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47. Open 18:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 01:00; closed Mon, Sun. B­6

Hard Rock Cafe

Cocktail Bar

Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. And, of course, there’s live music - Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 19:00. Among the special events here are monthly visits by a children’s entertainer who will watch over your young’uns while you rock out in peace!QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.com. Open 09:00 24:00. 6

Myata Lounge

Cocktail Bar

The first Myata Lounge in PL, this franchise might be familiar to those who have wandered over the border east, and as such, the clientele skews sexy Slav. Known for good food, great drinks, shisha smoke and general debauchery in a sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats, Myata covers a lot of bases, but what makes it special is its regulars, who would rather go hard than go home. It’s a few-fucks-given kind of vibe that only the young and beautiful can pull off, and they do it here. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp and teriyaki salmon to burgers and quesadillas, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s live music every Sunday from 21:00 and also Guinness on draught, but you’ll find most guests sipping their signature cocktails. If you were hoping Warsaw would be a bit more Wild, Wild East, check this place out.

QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www.myatawarszawa.tilda.ws. Open 12:00 01:00; Fri 12:00 04:00; Sat 16:00 04:00; Sun 16:00 01:00. X­E

Warmut Cocktail Bar

This smart, trendy bar acknowledge’s Warsaw’s obsession with Wermut (Polish for ‘Vermouth’) - the alcoholic botanical beverage found in many a classic cocktail. Found between Plac Zbawiciela and Plac Konstytucji, the bar is set in a socialist-realist building which made up the main thoroughfare of Communist-era Warsaw. Head in and look up to see a unique Warsaw skyline...albeit, upside down. Funky drinks are pleasantly complemented with a menu of quirky comfort food. Events here range from DJ sets to early evening yoga and meditation sessions on the rooftop!QG‑10, ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 515 210 223, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 16:00 01:00; Thu, Fri 16:00 03:00; Sat 12:00 03:00; Sun 12:00 01:00. EB

The Alchemist Metropolitan

Cocktail Bar

Patenting the ‘future of drinking’ themselves, The Alchemist’s ‘Beer Wall’ was the first of its kind in Europe. With a handy ‘Beer Wall’ card, you can pour yourself as many drinks as you like from the 8 taps on the wall, typically offering local craft beer and prosecco. Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, however, the signature cocktails that shimmer, swirl and smoke are where the Alchemist earns its name, and their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020) makes this venue a must-visit. On the card of international eats are excellent Polish dishes, delicious seafood, steaks, burgers and more. If all this wasn’t enough, in the summer it’s the spacious terrace that draws the locals to lounge around for hours enjoying The Alchemist’s experimentation. Second location (without the Beer Wall) at ul. Grzybowska 5A (E-7).QF‑5, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. T­U­6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar

Cocktail Bar

Bottles at the bar, bottles on the ceilings, and why not, considering your signature alcoholic drink is one of the world’s most recognisable brands? Not just a bar, this spot does some great American style grub, from burgers, steaks and BBQ ribs to fried chicken. What’s more, the quirk of this place is the cinema screen round back, great for films, live screenings of sports events or as a space for live music and other events. Come here for a drink, food, and definitely check out their events calendar on Facebook.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00 01:00; Sun 12:00 24:00. T­U­B­E­6

Whiskey in the Jar

Cocktail Bar

First opened in Poznań in 2013, Whiskey in the Jar is now something of a Polish institution, boasting locations in several cities, including this glorious one in the centre of Warsaw. Known primarily for its steaks, rock n’ roll aesthetic and live concerts (Thu-Sat from 20:00), it might be easy to chalk this up as just the Polish take on a certain international chain, yet WITJ exudes authenticity and is very much a passion project for the team behind it. So while you’ll get choice cuts of seasoned steaks, mouthwatering burgers, a wide selection of craft beers and the eponymous whiskey served in jars, there are also traditional Polish touches here and there - plus the possibility that a Harley might tear through the place at any moment.QG‑10, ul. Marszałkowska 53, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 798 80 56 18, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00 23:30; Mon 13:00 21:30; Tue 13:00 22:30; Sun 13:00 21:30. U­B­E­6

Woda Ognista

Cocktail Bar

Well…all we can say about this photo from Myata Lounge (p.89) is…that’s not how you use a straw.

Before we detail the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets that can be described as ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful pre-war architecture you might miss if you don’t stray from Warsaw’s main drag, ul. Marszałkowska. Emitting a nostalgic air of bygone days, Woda Ognista captures and bottles this atmosphere of ‘forgotten Warsaw’, with classy 1920s-30s decor and a primly dressed staff that exude panache. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal offerings, fantastic Polish-style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved.QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00 02:00. 6

Clubs

A clubbing paradise, the capital certainly has some special nightclubs and Varsovians know how to party. Dress your best, anticipate a cover charge at any place worth getting into, and be prepared to greet the dawn. If you don’t make it till sunrise with this crowd, you’re probably doing it wrong.

Baila Show & Dining

‘Baila’ literally means dance in Spanish, and here it’s a literal call to action and command to live in the moment. Delivering on the promise of their name, they host live DJ sets Wednesday to Friday, while Saturday sees this place pack out with patrons eager to enjoy delicious Latin American dishes and premier eye-pleasing performances on their stage (starts at 20:30, reservations required), before going wild themselves during DJed afterparties. Dripping with intrigue, Baila adheres to a ‘what happens in Vegas’ philosophy and the less you know about what you’re getting into, the better the payoff. During the week, enjoy the colourful interior and oysters, steaks, salsas and other menu items with a bit less titilation.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, tel. (+48) 514 06 06 24, www.bailawarsaw.com. Open 12:00 23:00; Thu, Fri 12:00 01:00; Sat 15:00 03:00; closed Wed, Sun. €€€€.

DZiK House of Fun and Culture

Located right near Łazienki, DZiK is one of those wonderful places that defies concise characterisation. In essence it’s an old residence (1927 to be exact, which is fitting as it seems like a place that Gatsby would have enjoyed if he’d ever made it to Warsaw), with lots of original furnishings, a glorious 1000m2 courtyard garden, and a wide spectrum of happenings that attract a diverse and inclusive crowd - everything from burlesque, cabaret, concerts and DJ nights to children’s events and yoga sessions. The restaurant serves European cuisine and it’s a lovely place to drop in for a date or a glass of wine. We list it here in clubs because the dance parties last loooong on the weekends, but you never know what could be happening here. Keep an eye on FB to find out.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A, MPolitechnika. Open Wed, Thu 12:00 24:00; Fri 12:00 03:00; Sat 12:00 04:00; Sun 12:00 23:00; closed Mon, Tue. B­E

Pepper Night - Dance till dawn with the wild spirit of Warsaw, alive and untamed! (p.87)

Hulakula

Entertainment centre by both day and night, but once the kids are getting tucked in, Hulakula drops its family-friendly daytime disposition for party vibes. Although unusual, the idea to also use this huge entertainment centre as an after-hours hangout place with friends is absolutely brilliant and the fun is irrepressible as this place turns into a different kind of rumpus room. DJs often play weekends, and it’s worth checking their calendar for other concerts and events. Q J‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, M Dworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Wed 12:00 01:00; Thu 12:00 02:00; Fri 12:00 03:00; Sat 10:00 03:00; Sun 10:00 23:00.

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Hydrozagadka

You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place has barely changed since it opened way back in 2007, and it still looks like it’s been ransacked by students; it’s almost advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations aren’t so much limited as virtually nonexistent, and you won’t find much more than brick walls and a collection of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. Have we scared you off? We hope not, for while it looks scruffy, they don’t need to change a damn thing as this has emerged as one of the best places in town, found right in the heart of Stara Praga (Old Praga, p. 54 ) as both an artistic and music venue with off-beat performances enjoyed by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon. Q J‑1/2, ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga Północ), M Dworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 03:30 only and during events.

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Level 27

To anyone with vertigo, a word of warning: as the name suggests, this is not some dingy cellar club, but rather an ecstatic rooftop party that puts you in the centre of Warsaw’s skyline. Rated one of the best clubs in the world, Level 27 occupies the top floor of a modern skyscraper, and includes a 450m2 open-air terrace in the summer. A showcase for high society’s beautiful people, DJs typically spin R&B and hip hop, but anything can happen from fire

shows to fashion runways (check their FB). Arrive early for an incredible sunset, or better yet, keep pace with these party people to see it come up again from the best vantage point in town. Are you on the level?QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www.level27.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 05:00; Sun 18:00 24:00. E

Selavi

The folks behind this multifaceted establishment just steps from Ogró d Saski (Saxon Garden) have taken on quite the task for themselves, as their self-described motto is to show their patrons ‘the life’. Which life you might ask? It’s all in the name, ie Selavi, or in its original French rendering C’est la vie . Part fine dining restaurant, the menu features a wide variety of well-crafted European fare, including excellent seafood and steaks; for the more budget conscious, who still like to enjoy a bit of decadence, the set menu lunch gets the approval of both our wallet and palate. On weekday evenings, Selavi is a top-notch cocktail bar, while at the weekends it morphs into a late night club, where some of Warsaw’s most beautiful inhabitants come to dance the night away and usher in the dawn. Q F‑6, Plac Małachowskiego 2, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 535 31 89 33, www.selaviwarsaw.pl . Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00; Sun 13:00 20:00.

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Indulge

the

menu of Pepper Night (p.87)

SLA Warsaw

Don’t let the stately, nondescript facade fool you, once you enter you’ll be met with an incredibly eclectic selection of food, drinks, smokes (by which we mean shisha) and décor. It’s fitting, as ‘SLA’ refers to the mythical Shangri-La, where everyone lives in harmony and enjoys the finer things in life. With a menu that ranges from bau and tempura shrimp to beef tartare and smoked duck salad, as well as some fine pizzas, there should be something to please everyone. It’s after dark, however, that SLA really shines, with every drink imaginable served from behind a 14-metre bar - said to be the longest in all of Poland, and unforgettable parties. With 600m2, there’s plenty of space to lose yourself over this ‘lost horizon.’QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 505 60 69 36, www.slawarsaw.com. Open 18:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 05:00. E

Smolna

This bunker club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old City Centre townhouse, just seconds away from the ‘Palm Tree’ (p.42). The music delves into the diverse, murky depths of electronica and the organisers are pretty radical, so you never know what kind of musical journey they’ll take you on. Three dancefloors - including one poutdoors (the neighbours love that one), three bars and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict ‘no photos/no smartphone’ policy and pretty cryptic marketing campaigns so you know they’re serious. Expect queues at the entrance, but the door policy seems to be in place simply to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a camera around their neck.

QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 08:00 only.

Teatro Cubano Warsaw

What’s that warm Caribbean breeze blowing through the centre of Warsaw? Must the blast of fresh air emanating from this sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, diversity is something PL could use more of, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!

QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00 03:00; Thu 22:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 05:00. X­E

Adult Entertainment

If you’re in Warsaw and simply have your mind set on going to a strip club, we advise you to stick to our recommendations, which are vetted and centrally-located. When it comes to these types of establishments, we’ve heard reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here, and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one we don’t list. As ever, we urge you to be mindful, mind your manners, deal only in cash, don’t let anyone order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’; also don’t get roped into buying a drink unless you know its price and can afford it. If you’re going to the club of your choice by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, and not one miles away with whom they have a partnership. Employ good common sense and we’re confident you’ll have a night to remember, not regret.

Playhouse Gentleman’s Club

This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has sustained their success with a classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com voting them the ‘Best Strip Club in the World’ back in 2013. Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women make Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card, Bitcoin and Paypal.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00 05:00. X

Sogo Club

The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2. Sogo is ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul. Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly-lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, the VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities. The club has their customers’ desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave by 05:00.QH‑7/8, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:00 05:00. X

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Poland’s original premium shopping mall, KLIF remains at the top with an incredible offer of high-end fashion! (p.100)

Alcohol & Tobacco

Aficionado Room - Cigar & Whisky Lounge

If you’re visiting Warsaw and are a bit of a cigar aficionado, we have just the thing for you, and thoroughly enough, the shop’s name is straight to the point - Aficionado Room! Located just off Warsaw’s main ul. Marszałkowska, this place uses a humidified storage room to keep cigars, that have journeyed from as far as Nicaragua, the Dominican Republic, Cuba, Honduras and Mexico, fresh and out of risk of drying out. Prices range from as little as 20zł up to as much as 150zł for a cigar. The owners are passionate about what is both their trade and hobby, and the shop doubles as a cigar & whiskey lounge, should you decide to stay a little longer to try out your recent purchases. Recline in two relaxed ventilated back rooms with comfy leather seating and fine whiskey to match!QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 577 55 54 80, www.aficionadoroom.pl. Open 11:00 22:00.

Alembik

If you’ve just come out of the Polish Vodka Museum in Praga Koneser Center (p.55) with a new appreciation for Poland’s national drink, then right around the corner, in the same building, you will find Alembik, a small but impressively stocked shop where you can purchase your very own vodkas. Here you will find Polish brands such as Luksusowa and Wyborowa, but not only, as they also sell premium whiskeys, cognacs, rums, gins and champagnes. For those with deeper pockets, there is also the opportunity to shop in private in their cosy 2nd room, where you can also enjoy tasting some exclusive products. Classy.QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 513 28 92 60, www.koneser.eu. Open 12:00 19:00; closed Sun.

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality

jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 11:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 19:00; Sun 10:00 17:00.

Lilou

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘musthave’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów and Sadyba Best Mall QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00*.

Fashion & Accessories

HE Concept Store

A high-class location for a high-class boutique. Forget shoddy souvenirs, this is where you’ll find some of the best items Polish and international design has to offer - all of which are completely unique to HE Concept Store. Enter the ‘Europejski Boutiques’ zone of Raffles Hotel Europejski from Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.38) and descend the mysterious spiral stairs into what opens up into an exhibition space of chic and sleek design - artwork, high-quality handmade items, accessories, gadgets, and top of the line fashion. There’s even a wine bar where you can buy, and even sample signature wines on the spot. All told, it’s a welcome gift to anyone with a keen eye on the latest trends.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 99 65, www.heconceptstore.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.

Victoria’s Secret

This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angel-winged fashion shows. Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Westfield Arkadia Shopping Mall,

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays, aside from 2022’s 7 shopping Sundays: Jan 30 | Apr 10, 24 | June 26 | Aug 28 | Dec 11, 18.

with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie, perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 72 33, www. victoriassecret.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

Gifts & Souvenirs

E-Manufaktura

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must use service. QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 18:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops (offered Tue-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Show the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide or map to receive an 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.

Markets

BioBazar

Once a thrice-weekly event in Mokotó w, this popular organic food and produce market has found a permanent, daily address inside the newly revamped Norblin Factory. A lovely space packed with outstanding food products that are not only certified organice, ecological and healthconscious, but also locally-produced as well, you can bet on a daily selection of fresh fish, meats, dairy, fruits and veg, baked goods, oils, cosmetics and more. If you have the budget, food shopping

doesn’t get any more appealing than this. There’s also an organice bistro on-site where you can a healthy breakfast, lunch or a glass of natural wine.

Q C‑7, ul. Żelazna 51/53, M Rondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 508 71 74 45, www.biobazar.org.pl . Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 07:30 16:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior specifically made to make you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Gant, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Levis, Liu Jo, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and many more. Found just 30mins from Warsaw’s city centre, and 20mins from Warsaw Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (for the latter get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’ and use a zone 2 ticket).

Qul. Puławska 42E, Piaseczno, MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

T­U

Dom Mody KLIF

Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino. Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO, and this is also the only shopping centre to have a concierge point.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. Eurospar open Mon Sat 08:30 22:00; Sun 09:00 20:00*.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Nike, Adidas, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more. To get there take Metro M2 from ‘Świętokrzyska’ to

‘Bródno’ and then change to tram no. 1, 2, 3, 4 or 25 and get off at ‘Toruńska’ or ‘Annopol’. Check jakdojade.pl for live timetables.Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol. factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. 6

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates. Recognisable brands include Desigual, Adidas, O Bag, Etam, Gant, ASICS, United Colors of Benetton, Smyk, Empik, Rossmann, Medicine, New Balance and many more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade. pl for accurate, up-to-the-minute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www. ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.

Galeria Młociny

Found in the north-western district of Bielany, and easily accessible via metro to the final stop, ‘Metro Młociny Bus, Tram & Metro Station,’ this is one of Warsaw’s newest, most impressive shopping malls. With over 200 stores (including Poland’s first Primark), a ‘meet and eat’ dining area containing food and drink venues (open Sundays), a super-modern cinema complex, gym and MK Bowling alley (also all open on Sundays). The topping on the cake is the impressive rooftop terrace where you can enjoy various cultural events such as dances, shows and concerts. There are also 2000 parking spots should you choose to drive.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15, MMłociny, www.galeriamlociny.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

Wola Park

A fantastic shopping and entertainment centre in the Wola district, just west of Warsaw’s Old Town and City Centre, with more than 200 stores and service points on offer. Among these, you’ll find an Auchan hypermarket, Multikino, as well as H&M, Zara, Hilfiger, Etam, Kazar, Homla, Tatuum, and even IKEA! Other services and amenities including a 3,000-capacity FREE parking area, a petrol station, an urban bike station, and the possibility of renting cargo bikes and charging electric cars. We at In Your Pocket are particularly big fans of the FREE Co-working zone, located next to the entrance to Zdrofit. Get to Wola Park by tram 8, 10, 26, 46 or bus 109, 154, 171, 190, 310.Qul. Górczewska 124, MKsięcia Janusza, tel. (+48) 22 533 40 00, www.wolapark.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. T­U

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

3/4 Koneser Bar 87

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 39

Aficionado Room - Cigar & Whisky Lounge 97

Alembik 97

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 97

Anielewicz Bunker 65

Archdiocese Museum 60

AURA Bar 88

Baila Show & Dining 92

Beef n’ Pepper 73

Belvedere Palace 49

Bez Tytułu 76

BI BA BO Restaurant & Cafe 80

BioBazar 98

Botanical Garden 50

Bristol & Europejski Hotels 40

Browar Warszawski 76

Browary Warszawskie 26

Być Może 74

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 74

Chaud Pain 74

Chopin Monument 49 Chopin Recitals 41

Ciao Napoli Długa 77

Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw 77

Copernicus Science Centre 47

Croque Madame 75

Cuda na Kiju 88

Designer Outlet Warszawa 100

Dom Mody KLIF 100

DZiK House of Fun and Culture 92

Elektrownia Powiśle 46

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 84

El Koktel 89

E-Manufaktura 98

Epoka 80

Fabryka Norblina 27

FACTORY Outlet Annopol 100

FACTORY Outlet Ursus 100

Food Hall Browary 84

Fryderyk Chopin Museum 44

Galeria Młociny 100

Gnojna Góra 36

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 77

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 77

Hala Gwardii 85

Hala Koszyki 85

Hala Mirowska 26

Hard Rock Cafe 89

HE Concept Store 98

Hulakula 93

Hulakula Leisure Centre 68 Hydrozagadka 93 Invisible Exhibition 60, 62

Jan Kiliński Monument 32 Jewish Historical Institute 65 Katyń Museum 60 Klonn 80, 81 Łazienki Park 23 Level 27 93 Lilou 97 Lokal Vegan Bistro 79 Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum 61 MK Bowling Entertainment Center 69 Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys 61 Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 51 Museum of Life under Communism 61 Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 34 Museum on the Vistula 47 Myata Lounge 89

Namaste India 77 National Ethnographic Museum 61

NBP Money Centre 61 Neon Museum 55 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 41

Officer Cadets School 51

Ogrody Ulricha 85 Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 65 Old Orangery 50

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 33 Old Town Square 23, 34

Palace of Culture & Science 28 Palace on the Island 51

PAM PAM Restaurant 81 Pasaż Wiecha 27 Pepper Night 87 Pharmacy Museum 62 Pinball Station 70 Pizza Lecentano 78 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 27

Plac Grzybowski 27 Plac Pięciu Rogów 28 Plac Piłsudskiego 26 Plac Zamkowy 31 Playhouse Gentleman's Club 95 POLIN Museum 65 POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews 23 Polish Vodka Museum 55 Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 69, 98 Potocki Mausoleum 53 Powiśle Mermaid Statue 45 Praga Koneser Center 55 Praga Museum of Warsaw 55 Presidential Palace 40 Rest. Baczewskich 82 Royal Castle 32

SAM Powiśle 75 Saxon Garden 26 Seafood Station Restaurant & Oyster Bar 82 Selavi 93 Skyfall Warsaw 23 SLA Warsaw 94 Smolna 94 Sogo Club 95 Stacja Grawitacja 68 St. Anne's Church 53 St. Anne's Church & Tower 38 St. John the Baptist Cathedral 37 SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 82, 90

Teatro Cubano Warsaw 94

Tehran Restaurant 78

Tel Aviv Urban Food 79

The Alchemist Grzybowska 78

The Alchemist Metropolitan 90

The Cool Cat 75

The Legendary Jack's Cinema Restaurant & Bar 90

The Little Insurgent Monument 33

The University of Warsaw 40

Thai Bali Spa 68

Tokyo Sushi 78

To Lubię 75

Traficar Car Share 21

U Barssa 78

U Fukiera 82

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art 62

U Kucharzy w Arsenale 73

Ul. Kanonia 36

ul. Nowy Świat 42

ul. Ząbkowska 55

Veturilo Public Bike 21

Victoria's Secret 98

Vistula Boulevards 23

Vistula River Boulevards 45 Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas 82

Warsaw Barbican 34 Warsaw National Museum 62

Warsaw Photoplasticon 71 Warsaw Rising Museum 23, 67

Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens 47

Warsaw Zoo 71

Whiskey in the Jar 90 White Pavilion 50

Wilanów Palace Museum 23, 52

Wilanów Park & Gardens 23, 52 Wilanów Royal Garden of Light 71

Woda Ognista 90

Wola Park 100 World of Illusion 69

Zachęta National Gallery of Art 62