Polestar March 2019 by Polestar

POLESTAR HOKKAIDO

M arch 2019

Editor’s Note

March 2019

H Editor - Dayna Andreous Designer - Andrew Gerber Front and back cover photos by Colette English A special thank you to this month’s contributors, without which this magazine would not be possible to produce. An extra special thank you to those of you who submitted photos, as I think this is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful Polestars to date!

ello everyone, and welcome to my first ever edition of Polestar! I hope you enjoy reading this March 2019 issue as much as I enjoyed making it. Firstly, I must say a big thank you to the designer, Andrew, for all his great work this month. He is somehow able to understand my outlandish and sometimes nonsensical ideas and put them into actual images and designs. For that, I am extremely grateful. This month, I will be traveling around Kansai for two weeks during the spring vacation. I have only been to Kansai once before, to Osaka, and it was only a very brief trip where I was bound solely for USJ (Universal Studios Japan). This time, I’m going to behave exactly as a tourist should and thoroughly enjoy my time there. I hope you all make the most of your time away from school and I look forward to hearing all about your spring adventures! Peace and love in the community,

In This Issue... H ajet S tories 4 8 10 11

Meet the Team President’s Corner First-Year Rep Budget Report

HEC

over

back in the

W est

24 Three Good Things You May Have Missed

C ulture A genda 26 Hinamatsuri

12 Kitami Concert 14 A Million and Ten Ways to Help HEC

A ll

M eanwhile ,

H okkaido

16 Eastern Hokkaido Springtime Must-dos 20 On Target: The Way of the Bow 22 Saint Patrick’s Parade

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A round

the

‘D o

28 Shiretoko

P hoto G allery

MEET THE

TEAM! Jacob Prusak Kristin Grandolfo Eastern Represeentative

Oda May Ranes Vice President I’m Oda, your new VP! I’m a first year ALT based in Higashikawa, the town of photography. I like travelling and exploring new places, but chilling at home isn’t too bad either. I’m looking forward to making lots of new memories with everyone in HAJET this year!

Annabel Baker-Sullivan Secretary I am Annabel and am a first year JET in Nemuro, the most eastern part of Japan! My hobbies include Netflix, reading, anime, and cello. As your secretary, I would like to make the members of HAJET a strong community with a sense of belonging. I really look forward to working for you this year and would love to get to know you.

Hey there! My name is Kristin Grandolfo and I’m the Eastern Rep this year! I’m from the Midwest where Indiana and Chicago are places I call home. In Hokkaido, you can find me looking for local coffee shops and reading. My hubs and I live in Nakashibetsu where the milk is good and the views from Kaiyodai are breathtaking. Let me know when I can offer tips, lend an ear, or offer good foodie spots!

Kaylynn Meghana Brandl Treasurer Hi! I’m Meghana and I’m your Treasurer this year! I’m originally from Austin, Texas, USA, but I now live in the teeny tiny potato farming town of Assabu in Southwest Hokkaido. I love history and politics, so come find me at an enkai for super nerdy drunken conversations, or any other time for super nerdy sober ones. I look forward to meeting y’all if I haven’t already!

Emily Lynn Schuster Sapporo Representative Hi there! I’m a California girl who fell in love at first sight with snowy Hokkaido and never left. This is my 6th year living on the island, and my 3rd in Sapporo City. My favorite things in Hokkaido are nature (hiking, rock climbing, hot springs), food (soup curry <3 forever), and beer. If you ever need to know anything about Sapporo, or just wanna hangout, get in touch!

MEET THE TEAM!

Northern Representative Hello and welcome! Tis I, Kaylynn Noriega, your 2019-2020 Northern Representative! I am originally from America (Go Ohio!) and now a resident of Bifuka! We are best known for our pumpkins and squash, so if you ever have that dire need to fulfil your pumpkin cravings/carvings, Bifuka is the place. Speaking of Bifuka, it is pretty small, that is why I never say no to an opportunity to travel/ experience something new. If you are ever in the mood to go do something adventurous, hit me up! P.S. I can drive!

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Central Representative Hello! My name is Jacob Prusak, and I am thrilled to be this year’s central representative! I am originally from Chicago, but have been living in Portland, Oregon for several years before starting JET. I am passionate about spending time outside, and can be found skiing, hiking or fishing in the mountains of Hokkaido most weekends. I hope to provide many opportunities for folks to get together and enjoy the nature we are surrounded by, and to further strengthen the community of JETs here. I live in the quite town of Takikawa, tucked right in the middle of the island, but I’m always ready to pack my car with friends and go on an adventure to the far flung reaches of Hokkaido.

Heather Ann Rand Southwest Representative Hello, I’m Heather, the new Southwest Rep. I was born and raised in Alaska, so living in Hokkaido is basically a milder version of that. As the worst Alaskan transplant ever, I hate being cold, so while away the winter eating around the island, and the summer doing... pretty much the same thing, but outside. (Incase we ever get other Hokkaido people with kids, heeeeey!)

Rachel Bartholomew Guannan Mei Translator Hey, guys. Nice to meet you. This is Guannan Mei, a Chinese girl. You can call me Guannan, however few people knows it. Since the Chinese pronunciation of my first name is a bit annoying, you can just call me “Mei” which sounds the same as “May”. I came to Hokkaido as a CIR last April, now live in Niseko. I’ m so honored to be a member of HAJET family and can’t wait to see you all.

Kyle Willits Webmaster Hello and welcome! My name is Kyle Willits. I live in the smallest city in Japan, Utashinai. Before JET I was a web developer for about five years. I was bored with programming, so I went back to school, changed careers, and here I am! In my free time I practice Kyudo and photography. If you want to learn either, let me know!

Publications Coordinator Greetings! I’m Rachel from Northern VA in the U.S.A. and I’m placed (almost) conveniently outside of Sapporo. I’m mostly a shut-in but can be bribed to venture out with anything curry. I can’t say I’m a resident of Hokkaido without mentioning my love for the prefecture’s nature life and onsen, although you may be more likely to find me hiking through Sapporo’s snowy streets and photographing the nightlife.

Hanna Callen-Wicks Elections Coordinator Hello! I’m Hanna your elections coordinator! I’m originally from Canada but have been calling Sapporo home for the last 3 years. While I do enjoy the cold and snow winter brings, autumn is definitely my favourite season in Hokkaido. Some of the most delicious foods can be eaten in autumn, especially persimmons. Plus I love seeing the leaves change to all the many beautiful colours.

Max Turner Duncan Wood Project Outreach Co-coordinator Hi, I`m the new Project Outreach Coordinator. I’m from the U.S., specifically the great state of New Jersey. I now live in the beautiful seaside town of Yakumo, which is abouts half way between Hakodate and Chitose on the Hakodate Main Line. Yakumo’s the only municipality in Japan to touch both the Pacific and the Sea of Japan, which (along with the fried chicken of Harvester) is our claim to fame. I used to have hobbies, but I mostly just work or chill now. Keep an eye on our facebook page and the HAJET group for future volunteering information. I’m usually at HAJET events barring unforeseen circumstances or exceptional distances, so feel free to seek me out at those. Otherwise, if you need anything/ have questions/ requests/ events you want promoted/ just want to say hi, dont be afraid to message me.

Bookseller I’m a fun loving 2nd Year ALT living in the northern city of Nayoro, famous for its Observatory, Sunflower fields and Mochi Rice Paddies. I spend most of my time frequenting Hokkaido’s eateries, convincing myself that ramen is healthy, being in the great outdoors camping or skiing, playing a spot of rugby or sitting in an onsen with friends chatting about all things life.

Andrew Kaz

Andrew Gerber

Social MEDIA Coordinator

Polestar Designer

Hellooooooo, Hokkaido! My name is Andrew Kaz, and I’m a third-year JET in sunny foggy Kushiro city! I’m the one creating Facebook events and posting to our social media (you are following us, right?) so if you have any questions about something posted or more generally about good Hokkaido food, enka, or Utada Hikaru (especially about her), let’s get in touch!

Irankarapte! Originally from California, I have desperately wanted to see snow my whole life. After three years living in a yurt in Mongolia, I applied to JET, but left my placement request blank, and got sent to Nakashibetsu. I enjoy my eremitical existence in the Wild Wild East, a land that invokes in me ceaseless wonder. That’s all. Thank you for listening.

Althea Guiao Social Coordinator

Find out more about HAJET and its members on our website!

Hey all! I’m Althea, please call me Thea, if you’ve never met me, you’ve probably heard of me. Known as a loud one by my friends, I am now also known as the new social coordinator in HAJET. Ready for an awesome year with all of you! See you around!

MEET THE TEAM!

www.hajet.org POLESTAR MARCH 2019

PRESIDENT’S CORNER

MEET THE PREZ by Sonia Chand HAJET PResident

ey HAJET,

My name is Sonia and I’m a second year JET from Scotland. These days you can find me in the lovely coastal town of Yoichi, near Otaru. Originally from India, my family raised me in Glasgow and so I grew up with a huge mix of cultural influences in my life. Now, in Japan, I find myself reading more poetry, snowshoeing, looking at pictures of elephants and watching horror movies with a wonderful lady from my BOE. Volunteering has always been an important and constant part of my life. I’m thrilled that I can be part of the PC for a second year, alongside a group of talented, driven and passionate individuals. In the past, I’ve volunteered for Oxfam Int, the Scottish Refugee Council and Glasgow Women’s Library’s BAME (Black Asian Minority Ethnic) branch. I’ve learned so much from working with people from a wide range of backgrounds. The ways in which they changed their communities for the better was driven, first and foremost, by their fierce desire to make a difference. I admire that a lot. For this reason, I have never viewed volunteering as ‘giving up’ or ‘wasting time’. I view it as a meaningful endeavour which benefits myself and my community. Many of us wish to make a positive impact on our local communities during our time in Japan. I believe that by taking advantage of the opportunities offered

President’s Corner

by HAJET, you take the first step towards making that lasting impact. My goal, therefore, is to help more people benefit from and contribute to the organisation this year. Now that spring is almost here, I’d also like to reflect on the past month. When Yuki Matsuri rolls around, it’s always an exciting time. Not only are Hokkaido JETs drawn to Sapporo, but JETs from all across Japan travel north. Last year, I opened up my home to some friends and visitors from the mainland and decided to do it again this year. My annual Snow Festival enkai ballooned to 30 people! The atmosphere was buzzing, and we had to tear ourselves away from everyone to catch the last train home. We also entered the annual Otaru Pub Quiz hosted by the Shiribeshi block leader and came a nice solid last. Realisation hit us after the first round that we didn’t stand a chance. Thankfully the nomihodai option helped us get through questions such as ‘what do you call the female equivalent of a peacock?’ …!?! On our way home, my poor Okinawan friend quite lost his mind and pelted snowballs into my hallway. We had to lock him out until he regained his senses. He was okay in the end. Then Tuesday rolled around, and with a heavy heart, I said goodbye to the visiting ‘Scots’ from Okinawa and Gunma. Before they left, I

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flogged them some t-shirts and so they took a small piece of HAJET back home with them. Now that spring is here, we can all look forward to a much-needed break. Let’s take this chance to chill out, travel and rejuvenate ourselves for the exciting year ahead. Till next time guys!

HAJET BUDGET FOR 2018-2019

by Claire Bate-Roullin

BE EXCELLENT TO EACH OTHER! A L E T T E R F R O M T H E F I R S T- Y E A R R E P

ello fellow Northerners! I hope you’re all doing well and fitting in your last winter sports hurrah’s. Knock on wood, but it looks like winter is coming to an early end. We officially have (almost) made it through our first Hokkaido winter folks! In addition to surviving winter we also survived the Winter Meeting. I’m largely joking, but I do think it’s fair to say that tensions ran a bit high regarding a range of topics. If you were not in attendance I’d urge you to read the meeting minutes, the various proposals and statements that have been published, and form your own opinions regarding the various issues that were discussed. Ultimately, several points brought up in the meeting resulted in fairly tense debate. This is something I’ve decided to look at as a positive. I’d much rather be part of a group where people butt heads, voice their concerns, and disagree than a group where people are indifferent. I’d take the passion that was displayed at the Winter Meeting over apathy any day. While things got heated in the moment, my takeaway from the event is that people care about HAJET and its future. Which, as a First Year, makes me feel like I’ve joined the right kind of organization. The amazing time I had with all you lovely folks at the enkai and nijikai further enforced this. However, I noticed that the tone of the debate shifted after it moved online. I feel that it’s fair to say, once online, comments lended themselves towards a bit more hostility and personal attacks than the inperson discussion. While I’d again chalk a percentage of this up to passion, I feel that the methods that this passion was expressed in were questionable and arguably ineffective. If you have strong feelings regarding the topics addressed at the winter meeting, or anything else, I’d urge you to contact members of the PC directly, ask questions, propose ideas,

by Jacqueline Witwicki

vote in HAJET elections, and fill out any HAJET surveys that come across your inbox. In this and all things, I’m reminded of the wise words of the great Abraham Lincoln, “Be excellent to each other… and party on dudes!” Our new president made a great point when she stressed that HAJET is the organization it is today because of its members. To risk sounding like a hippie, it’s the people that make HAJET great. The diversity in professional experiences, backgrounds, and personalities that exist in the HAJET membership are what have made being a part of this organization such a pleasure for me over the past several months. For me, passion for HAJET is passion for all the great folks that I’ve been privileged to meet and work with. I’m going to take a step down from my soapbox now to let y’all know that, if you have concerns regarding anything that happened, either online or in person at the Winter Meeting, do not hesitate to reach out to me, other HAJET and HAJET PC members, or any of the mental health resources available through JET or AJET. Until next time, stay passionate and be excellent to each other!

A Letter from

the

First-Year Rep

HAJET is responsible for making and printing the HNG for newly arrived JETs. This year, advertisements exceeded expectations and covered more than three-quarters of the final expenses. This was one of the most successful years for the bookstore and exceeded revenue expectations. Merchandise made less than expected due to a lack of time and volunteers. 49 new members brought in a total of 220 000 yen. Though slightly less than initially budgeted, membership fees were still the single largest source Overall, the three seasonal meetings incurred of revenue for HAJET. a total loss of around 8 000 yen. HAJET events covers the HAJET welcome parties and the enkais Haven’t seen enough Excel organised after the Sapporo orientation and SDC. A tables? Read the full report at loss of around 18 000 yen was projected for each. The Snowcation is a small tour holiday organised by https://docs.google. the social coordinator for non Hokkaido Jets as a com/spreadsheets/ HAJET fundraiser. d/142mlG6FGlJgsfYJqxMFDjQnqblGzr4I4xVrLpBJetE/ Fourteen regional events were given funding with edit?usp=sharing more than 150 000 yen spent; the highest amount in recent years. Thanks to this more than 600 people Have questions? Contact me at were able to participate in various activities and treasurer@hajet.org! events around the island and it is hoped even more events will be funded in the future.

he 2018-2019 financial year saw HAJET start its term with a healthy bank account. Even though there were some small hiccups, 2018-2019 was still a financially successful year and closed with a tidy profit of around 90 000 yen. The major expenses came from the welcome parties, the Hokkaido Newcomer’s Guide (HNG) and International Event Funding. The main revenue came from membership fees, the Snowcation fundraiser and sales from both merchandise and the bookstore. The HAJET meetings and the various HAJET enkais tended to balance themselves out.

Final Budget Event HAJET Meetings HAJET Events Regional Events Publications Merch/Sales Admin Total

Budgeted Expenses ¥1,100,000 ¥1,240,000 ¥205,000 ¥140,500 ¥50,000 ¥56,000 ¥2,791,500

Actual Expenses ¥755,433.00 ¥1,307,260.00 ¥153,876.00 ¥110,734.00 ¥50,602.00 ¥13,932.00 ¥2,391,837.00

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Budgeted Revenue ¥1,100,000 ¥1,245,000 ¥0 ¥80,000 ¥90,000 ¥235,000 ¥2,750,000

Actual Revenue ¥747,309.00 ¥1,324,193.00 ¥0.00 ¥93,500.00 ¥92,750.00 ¥222,015.00 ¥2,479,767.00

Net Profit -¥8,124.00 ¥16,933.00 -¥153,876.00 -¥17,234.00 ¥42,148.00 ¥208,083.00 ¥87,930.00

HEC KITAMI CONCERT by Greg Emond photos by Nivedh Sreejit

ere I am, asked to recap an event that basically took all my free time to organize for the last few months. I think I’m way too biased to do a good job, but I’ll do my best nevertheless... So here goes: Boy did that thing change since last year! When I first conceptualized the event, I just thought we’d do an intimate rock show with the band I was with at the time, and invite a few other acts to complete the card. I wasn’t expecting a big turnout; neither was I expecting to make a lot of money for the HEC. In my humble opinion, the camp is the best gift we can offer to our kids, and I only wanted to contribute a little bit with what I do best, music. At least that’s what I thought until the ticket reservations numbers came in. Within a day, the event went from a small intimate show to an “OMG, I better find good bands” situation. My gracious friends helped out, and we ended up with two of the most established heavy rock bands in Kitami on the card. I will never be able to thank them enough. Then the show happened. As it turns out, not that many people like to listen to face-melting LOUD rock/metal for three hours straight. As a result, although the show was a success at the box-office, many left the show before it was done. So here I was, at the beginning of this year, asked to duplicate what seemed like a very successful event if you looked at ticket sales, but which also left a sour taste in the mouth of a lot of people who came. I decided to change everything, and I asked the best acoustic/pop acts I knew to come and play. Boy did I strike gold! I asked Ayu, Kenny Stone and Free MU to help out, and they graciously accepted. I also traded my gnarly and loud band for the sultry and extremely talented Kelly, the very versatile Joe and the ever-so-hot and musically accomplished Winslow. We also opted for a different venue in the Onion

Hall, which is an institution in Kitami. Not only was the sound and lighting amazing, it also had a very large lobby where people could take a break from the show, have a couple of drinks and catch up with their friends they hadn’t seen in a long time. We dearly missed something like that last year. We kicked things off with Melissa, who graced the crowd with an amazing version of “I’m On Fire”, with a little help from Kelly and yours truly. She did really well! Our harmonies were on point and it was a great way to get the crowd warmed up. We were followed by Ayu and Shohei, who had the crowd in the palm of their hands with their heartfelt lyrics. The crowd was so quiet and attentive when she sang. I then helped her out with two English songs. But she didn’t really need my help. She already had the crowd where she wanted them. Then came Kenny Stone. That guy is unbelievable! He is one of the best guitar players I know and his voice also happens to be sweeter than honey. Add in the fact that he has that “sexy intellectual” vibe when he plays live, and you have a deadly combination. He just owned the stage. It was just him, his acoustic guitar, and a very attentive crowd. After that, it was Kelly’s time to shine. We split our act into two halves; the first half was Kelly’s set with me on guitar and harmonies. The second half came after Free MU, where we came out as a band with Joe and Winslow onboard. Kelly will never admit it, but she really becomes a totally different animal once on stage. She was born to sing in front of a crowd. Her soft tone really worked well with the covers we chose, and she nailed our originals. We literally filled the room with our harmonies, and we actually didn’t feel that out of place compared to the ridiculously talented acts we had to follow. However, everything changed when Free MU took the stage. I am so humbled they accepted to come, because

HEC Kitami Concert

they clearly are leagues above any single one of us puny mortals. Takaya-san is probably the best male vocalist in the Kitami region, and he showed the extent of his talent in a grand manner on that night. But then Shyoko-sama came on stage and brought the event to a whole new level. Her version of Lady Gaga’s “I’ll Never Love You Again” was worth the price of entry alone. Not only does she have more power and range than any other artist I’ve seen live (and I’ve been to Holy Cole and Mariah Carey concerts) but she also sings with so much passion and sincerity that everyone has no choice but to feel what she feels. She delivered a performance that deserved a spot on national TV. Not just a bunch of drunk lads in a small venue. They capped it off with a duet version of “Beauty and the Beast” that was actually better than the original. No one could top that, so of course we didn’t. We were the last act, but had no business being on stage after a performance like that. You live and learn! We will probably be the opening act next year. Like that, everyone will be at their rightful position on the card. Hey, at least I made a couple of people happy with the homemade pretzels I made for the raffle! All in all, this year’s event delivered beyond all expectations! Everyone left with a smile on their face, and more importantly we met our financial goals. Within a couple years, the charity concert has become a very important part of the HEC’s income. I would like to give a special thanks to Crystal, who made it all possible, and to T.J., who emceed the evening like he’s been doing it all his life. Most importantly, I would like to thank every single person who came. It was very generous of you all and YOU made this magical moment possible. See y’all next year for more of the good stuff, eh?

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A M I L L I O N A N D T E N WAY S T O H E L P H E C

he Hokkaido English Challenge (HEC) is one of the most fulfilling parts of many ALTs’ time in Hokkaido. The first time I went to the camp, what left the biggest impression on me were the volunteers. We all made it here after a grueling year-long application process, during which we had to prove that our skills and talents would make us useful as ALTs. Unfortunately for many, we arrive to our placements and our skills and talents shrivel up in those long office hours, those recitations of the textbook passages, and the daily, ‘hello, hello, how are you, I’m sleepy’ 10-second conversations with students in between English lectures. The compassion, enthusiasm, resolve and zeal that got us to Japan can be lost as we find ourselves wondering: what am I doing here? At the HEC camp, I saw the true forgotten power of ALTs. I heard them engaging with students in genuine English conversations, and rewarding their passion for English with compassionate understanding. I watched the fruits of their preparation and organization as they carried out their activities with enthusiasm and pride. I heard in every moment of downtime, with resolve to keep the camp running smoothly, the questions, “How can I help? What can I do?” And most impressive of all, I saw a group

of ALTs whose zeal was aflame with the satisfaction that they accomplished something really amazing. Everyone comes out of HEC glad that they did it. For me, I was moved to see ALTs (including myself) really showing the skills and abilities that got them here. For many, the students make HEC a memorable experience; for others, the teamwork; and for all: the food! Pretty soon, we will open up our volunteer applications for the camp. Whoever you are, whatever you bring to the table, there is a way for you to contribute to this amazing experience. That’s why I say there are over a million ways to help. Here are 10 of them: Group Leader - Leadership, teamwork, compassion - team up with another volunteer to be the senpai to a group of students. You will eat, play, and look out for these students during the camp. Cooking team - Organization, timing, taste buds work with the team to help get 3 meals a day out to the kiddos at camp. Great for those who don’t want to be outside all day! Recreation team - Sporty, active, play - team up to plan recreation times and the Amazing Race! It helps if you have a loud voice and a whistle!

A Million and Ten Ways to Help HEC

text and photos by Crystal Hartsough, HEC Coordinator Play-writing team - Creative, encouraging, imagination - pick a prompt for the plays and guide students to write a theatrical masterpiece. You also get to make the other volunteers put on your sample play! Dance team - Dance, DJ, groove machine - invent and teach a dance to the campers and help to put on the end-of-camp dance party! At the dance party, when that song comes on, everyone will do the steps together! Camp songs team - Singing, silly, loud - Baby Shark, Funky Chicken, Penguin Song, Campfire Song… if you’ve ever been to a summer camp you probably recognize some of these. Pass them on to the campers so that we can sing these summer camp hits together! Badge team - Crafty, encouraging, organized - create and track different goals for the students to achieve throughout camp. You also get to use a button maker and distribute stickers. Activities team - Entertaining, challenges, gameshow - team up to prepare a set of challenges for the groups to compete in. Distribute points and keep the crowd entertained and the competitors having fun! Media team - Photos, videos, sneaky - document

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the many camp memories and compile them into the media package after the camp so it can be remembered for years to come. Create this year’s promotional video and camp video! Shadows - Leadership, organization, committed observe and learn from this year’s camp coordinators with the intention of taking over either the Camp Coordinator or HEC Coordinator role after the camp. ———— If you are interested in any of these roles, or if you have an idea to help make HEC great by using your unique skills and abilities, please contact hec@ hajet.org! See you at camp!

EASTERN HOKKAIDO S P R I N G T I M E M U S T- D O S by Anna Martin photos by author

one with winter sports? Ready for the first tendrils of spring to wind their way north? I know I am. It’s time for early spring adventures in Hokkaido! My friends and I like to pile into the car for a day and see what we see, so I’ve made a list of some of our favourite destinations. Some are well known, some not so much. So here are a few gems in East(ish) Hokkaido for you to discover as the days get longer and brighter and, dare we hope, warmer.

K AWAY U O N S EN Overall, Kawayu has the air of a once-bustling tourist centre which has, like much of the east, become a little run-down. It’s well worth a visit though, given that as spring emerges from winter, life is emerging from between the old, concrete hotels. Have lunch in Mori-no-Hall by Kawayu train station, then take a forest walk along one of the many trails behind the Nature Centre. Alternatively, you can head just a few minutes down the road to Kotan and relax in an outdoors onsen right on the shore of Lake Kussharo. While you’re there, try some Ainu cuisine in the restaurant right by the onsen, Marukibune, which is also a very cool hotel if you fancy staying the night. Just a few minutes down the road in Teshikaga town is Tsujiya (https://twitter.com/tsujiyastore), a fantastic shop full of vintage clothes, housewares, knick-knacks and music, right across from the Michi-no-Eki with its freshwater spring. And of course, unmissable in the Kawayu area is Io-zan, a volcanic hill billowing steam and sulphur among the surrounding mountains.

Eastern Hokkaido springtime must-dos

Artwork in the entrance of the Museum of Northern Peoples in Abashiri (photo by Andrew Gerber)

The sulphur and steam of Io-zan in Teshikaga

A BA S H IR I Fan of museums? If so, your ship has come in, and it’s docked in Abashiri. The Prison Museum in Abashiri is well-known and absolutely worth a visit. While you’re in town, check out the Northern Peoples Museum, where they have a permanent collection and a temporary collection on display to get to know not just the Ainu, but also northern peoples from across Asia and North America. Very close to the Northern Peoples Museum is the Drift Ice Museum, where you can learn about the ice and truly experience the cold in their dedicated cold room. For lunch, head to Hokusho Fishery across from Lake Saroma and try a scallop burger. From the outside, the place doesn’t look like much, but the burgers are fresh and excellent.

weather, you can rent canoes or go fishing. You can also follow walking trails or rent mountain bikes to explore the pristine woods around the lake. In winter, a good book by the fireplace in the main room of the hotel would be a dream. The food is beautifully prepared by chef Masaki Watanabe. Dinner is only available to guests of the hotel, but you can drop in around lunch time for coffee and a snack. If it’s still snowy, it’s a good idea to check the website to see what roads are closed (https://www.chimikepphotel. com/). The hotel itself is pricey, but it’s a lovely spot to visit during the day, whatever the season.

C H IMIKE P P U L A KE If you’re looking to get away from it all, or on quiet days get a vague feeling that you might be in The Shining, then Chimikeppu Hotel is the place for you. It’s right on the side of a lake, where, in good

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KUS H IR O How can I leave my own town off this list? Kushiro is the epitome of East Hokkaido #aesthetic: the city is a crumbling relic of a more prosperous industrial past, but life still burgeons through the cracks in the concrete. There is Akanko, where you can enjoy a lakeside walk, take an onsen in one of the many hotels, followed by a wander through the omiyage stores and a meal in one of the many restaurants and cafés in town. There is also a traditional Ainu

Venison and wild vegetables on rice: yasei-don, a signature Traditional ramen alley in Kushiro, with several excellent, dish in Marukibune, and the author’s top recommendation. trendy restaurants.

kotan (village) with several historical buildings and ast Hokkaido is full of wonderful places, a culture centre to visit. Back towards Kushiro City, with all its little moments of interest and you can take a walk in the Kushiro Wetlands (the beauty nestled into the great natural drama of famed Shitsugen), either from the Observatory or the mountain, marsh and sea. I hope this spring, perhaps Onennai Nature Centre. Either one will give you with the help of this short guide, you find your own the chance to see the flora and fauna of the Shitsugen favourite places here at the edge of the world. up close. The city itself is full of things to do. Visit the art museums in the Manabotto or down by the port. Take a walk along the river and bathe your tired feet in the footbath by Nusamai Bridge. Head out to Yonemachi Park for stunning views out over the city and the sea on a clear day. Kushiro is a wonderful spot for food: find the freshest of seafood in Washo Ichiba, try some of the best zangi in Toriyoshi, have amazing yakiniku in Oshama (the Horumon Dojo! but if you’re not into intestines, there are plenty of other options), and visit one of Kushiro’s many bars to finish up the evening. Kushiro is not short on nightlife options. Right, top: A walk in the woods at Kawayu. Bottom: Lake Kussharo

Eastern Hokkaido springtime must-dos

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N TA R G E T T h e W ay

of the

Bow

by Kyle Willits photos by author

uch to the confusion of most my friends in America, the point of Kyudo isn’t actually to hit the target. It’s archery, yes. And sure, there’s a bow, a target, and arrows. But beyond that the differences of Kyudo and other types of archery end. If you were to ask my teachers what the goal was, you would simply be told “Shin-ZenBi,” or “Truth, Goodness, and Beauty”. Basically, if I correctly exemplify those three traits, when I release my arrow the target will always be hit. However, if I shoot my bow with the sole intention of hitting the target, then I am not being truthful and I will miss. If I am not in harmony with my life, then I am lacking in goodness and I will miss. If I am not holding my bow as perfectly as I can, then I am lacking in beauty and I will miss. I miss a lot.

required before shooting an arrow results in personal growth. I had mentioned wanting to learn when I first arrived in my town. Through the grapevine, my teacher heard of my desire to learn and gave me a book and an invitation to class on the condition I read the whole thing. I read as quickly as possible and at the next possible opportunity showed up to class. I gave a formal introduction to my teachers and, seemingly uninterested in my mediocre Japanese selfintroduction, a practice bow was immediately placed in my hands. “Show me what you read.” And so, to the best of my ability, I raised the bow, slowly drew it, and released. “OKAY!” he shouted. He would teach me. However, he wanted to be absolutely clear this was a serious art. I needed to be patient. “This isn’t American archery,” he told me. “You won’t shoot that target for a long time.” He wasn’t kidding. Every class for about four months involved just raising a practice bow, drawing it, and releasing it over and over again in the corner of the gym next to my class of only about 4 people.

Kyudo is a unique martial art in Japan because it has no opponents. You don’t fight anyone in Kyudo; the only person you must defeat is yourself. If that sounds super Zen, it’s because it is! During archery’s revival in Japan, a large portion of contemporary Kyudo came from Zen teachings, which is also one of the reasons I was interested in it. Kyudo often resembles meditation more than archery. The bow Months went by and gradually I worked my way has become less of a tool to shoot an arrow and more up to using a “real” bow with real arrows. I quickly of a way to interact with myself. Even the etiquette learned that the reason this process was so long

On Target

is because the bow used in Kyudo is completely different from a bow you would see anywhere else. A yumi is about 7 meters tall and, as I would find, really difficult to use. Proper technique is necessary otherwise the drawing it is almost impossible. Safety is a large factor as well. The arrow touches your face while at full draw so injuries are not uncommon. My teacher put it much more eloquently by telling me they wanted me to train for so long to “make sure the bow string wouldn’t cut my ear off when I let go.” At this point, I have been practicing Kyudo for about 18 months now. Sometime soon I’m going to be taking my first test for placement which, surprisingly enough, also has a written portion to ensure I understand the spiritual aspects of Kyudo as well as the shooting aspects. Since starting Kyudo I’ve found myself able to have more control of my own heart and head in a whole assortment of situations. For people interested in mental exercise I can’t recommend Kyudo enough.

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Bringing a bit of Ireland to Hokkaido:

ia dhaoibh agus beannachtaí na féile! Hey everyone and happy St. Patrick’s Day! It’s a bit past the day, but we pretty much take over the month. And looking at the schedule of St. Patrick’s events happening in Japan over March, it really was an Irish invasion! For a while now, all across the country over the course of March, parades, festivals, and concerts all to do with good old Paddy and that little green island are held with the grandest being in Tokyo. But until recently there was nothing in Hokkaido. Now I couldn’t let that go unchecked. Especially given 1.) I’m Irish, 2.) who doesn’t love a good Irish party and 3.) Hokkaido and Ireland are so similar it seems a shame not to have one (sure there’s like 4 Irish pubs in Sapporo and everything!) So myself and a wonderful committee made of Hokkaido university students and the Honorary Consulate decided to do something about it! (Being the mad sods that we are!) We started meeting in October of 2018 and began hashing out things like a concert, lightup, and pubcrawl. So, what did we think was a great idea to have as our centerpice given the frigid temperatures of Hokkaido in mid-March? A parade! Outdoors! (You can tell we had one or two too many Guinness’s by that point...) So off we went on our mad crusade, making sure the police wouldn’t arrest us thinking we were some green-wearing cult, finding a mad enough sod to be St. Patrick (thanks Ryan!), booking bands, procuring more Irish kitsch than a New York Irish bar, and trying to convince the embassy of Ireland to support us - instead of completely disowning us!

St. Patrick’s Parade

THE FIRST

S T. PA T R I C K ’ S PA R A D E IN HOKKAIDO

by Derek Moore

And you know what, the craziest ideas sometimes work. So after nearly half a year, we had our parade. And the weather actually was wonderful...just kidding. The thaw we got just before gave out to snow the day before and the day of. But we still marched on, frozen and wind shaken, through Odori from the stage at 6-Chome to the tower (we’re a stubborn lot you see - or masochistic, whichever you prefer). We even had the embassador of Ireland, Paul Kavanagh, come all the way up to say a few words as well as the Vice-Governor of Hokkaido and ViceMayor of Sapporo. We even had the parade covered by Sapporo and Hokkaido TV stations. And of course we can’t forget Melon Kuma who gate-crashed the parade, gnawed on a few attendees and made a general nuisance of himself (love you Melon Kuma!). There were even some familiar HAJET faces who came out for the day! After the parade we had a wonderful concert by the amazing band ‘Notes of North’. Honestly check them out, they’re brilliant!! And to cap it all off we even had the Sapporo TV Tower and Norbesa Ferris Wheel lit up in green for the day! And of course we went to an Irish pub (or 3…). But of course no rest for the wicked, we’re already thinking of how to improve and expand for next year! Looking forward to seeing you all there! Slán agus beannact!

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M E A N W H I L E , B A C K I N T H E W E S T. . .

3 G O O D T H I N G S Y O U M AY H AV E MISSED

by Max Turner

illustrations by Andrew Gerber

ou could say we’re living in a bit of a turbulent time. Politically, economically, socially… on the news it’s Brexit on at breakfast and Trump at tea time. So it’s easy to get into bed after work, fingers in ears, nestle deep under the kotatsu and wait for all this to blow over before we leave the peace and tranquility of Hokkaido and go back to our home countries. Alternatively, we could be celebrating the fantastic things we don’t often hear about. Beautiful moments can capture humanity’s ability to act with love, hope and joy. So here are 3 of the best things we’ve seen in the news recently, to remind us how lucky we are to be on this little rock we call home, and show us that we can be happy watching the news once more. FOXES H O T E L L E A D I NG T H E WAY IN S E N E MPL OY ME NT Foxes Hotel looks like any other UK beachside hotel from the outside. Minehead, near Exmoor, is part of the South West of England’s beautiful Coastal Path, lined with traditional flint cottages and fish and chip shops on the seafront. However, it’s pioneering a new way to educate and train its young employees. It’s giving young adults with special educational needs the opportunity of employment and training to gain valuable experience. It’s the UK’s only “training hotel” and college for students with mostly Down syndrome or Autism, who plan on pursuing careers in the hotel industry. Often fully booked since featuring on the BBC’s The One Show, Foxes is giving opportunities to develop skills and pursue careers alongside professionals in a real working environment. Whilst estimated employment figures for adults with Down syndrome sits at somewhere around 5%, - whether in front of house, reception or in the restaurant - the

paths of these young adults show us the potential of new and supportive ways to increase equality in work environments by offering education, training and employment to all. Employees feel empowered and are finding their feet, earning their own money and developing independence. h t t p s : / / w w w. y o u t u b e . c o m / w a t c h ? v = v lyoNwDxhs - A mini documentary on Foxes Hotel - Jan 6, 2017

A S U RP RI S E TO RTO I S E I N T H E G ALAPAG O S Not only did scientists announced that three bird species vanished from the earth for good in 2018, the WWF claims that species are dying out at around 1,000 times faster than the natural rate of extinction. Despite this, we’re learning more and more each day and making discovery after discovery. A tortoise which was thought to have been extinct for 100 years was spotted in the Galapagos - a cluster of 19 islands with incredibly high natural diversity in the Pacific Ocean. An adult female, potentially more than a century old, was seen in February during an expedition by the Giant Tortoise Restoration Initiative (GTRI). It could be a similar story for other animals

Meanwhile, Back in the West...

which we assume to have become extinct, be that by deforestation, excessive hunting of endangered species, global warming or other global ecological problems. Perhaps more species than we first thought may have been able to survive in areas outside of mankind’s path, in the densest jungles and the deepest oceans. This tortoise may give us hope for other animals we think we’ve lost and show us there may be time to slow down the rate we’re seeing animal and plant species disappear. The global crisis of species extinction rates we face now is one of the greatest challenges of the generation. Not only can we recycle and reduce our own personal carbon footprints to solve this issue, but also consider society’s over-reliance on fossil fuels, imposing higher taxes and scrutiny on industrial multinational companies and prioritising green environmental policy to hopefully reverse the damage we have caused. h t t p s : / / w w w. n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c . c o m / animals/2019/02/extinct-fernandina-giant-tortoisefound/ - National Geographic - Feb 22, 2019

self looked young is true medicine to ease our own fears of aging. The tapes also included family holidays and his children changing over the years, which he said was like watching “gentle maturing of my family.” This story struck a chord with me personally, and I was left thinking deeply about my own grandparents. Their behaviors were definitely forged in a purer time where this display of gratitude and joy would have been commonplace, and I also often feel like the rate of today’s technological advances are leaving them behind. Its sad to think that someone would be unable to re-watch their fondest memories because the tech is moving faster than we are. “I thought you would appreciate how much someone has enjoyed your offer,” he wrote to the seller. “I was blown away by how much emotion and feeling this gentleman had put into a note, and how I felt so connected to him,” the previous owner said in an interview. “There is so much negative in the world today, it’s refreshing to have something wholesome and positive to share with everyone.” While our grandparents or parents’ generation grew to our ages without the connectivity which the internet has enabled, it’s obvious that the advances in technology are enabling us and may be holding others back. In the modern world of super-fast internet, maybe now is the time to reach out to those who might also be searching for their figurative VR Player. https://www.reddit.com/r/MadeMeSmile/ comments/arcmve/i_sell_on_ebay_and_got_this_ in_the_mailbox_today/ - Feb 16, 2019

A N E L DE R LY MA N’S T H A NK YO U L E T T E R T O E BAY S E L L E R After having been left with home videos and no way to watch them, an unnamed gentleman took a trip down memory lane thanks to picking up a VCR player online. His letter of gratitude to the previous owner was later up-voted and retweeted hundreds of thousands of times online. “I watched tapes of my retirement party from 25 years ago which I had never seen before. Jeez, were we young. Then a tape of my wedding, with all the family and friends, many of which are no longer around.” Noting that he, at 86, thought his 25 year earlier

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-47277608 BBC News - Feb 29, 2017

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I hope you feel uplifted from these stories which show that the world can be a wonderful place, despite how dreary it can often feel. The power of human kindness and love is strong, resilient and can help us through the toughest times.

C U LT U R E A G E N DA :

HINAMATSURI by Dayna Andreous Polestar Editor-In-Chief photos by Ashley Hirasuna

y the middle of February, it is not uncommon to stroll through your local supermarket and see a plethora of dolls for sale with round porcelain faces, decked out in traditional Japanese garments and kneeling on a red carpet behind a shiny glass casing. These figurines are intricate and have a regal air about them, forming a charming part of Japanese culture: hinamatsuri, or ‘Doll’s Day’. Every year on the 3rd of March, Japanese families with daughters or granddaughters gather together to celebrate their female children and wish them good health and happiness for the coming year. It tends not to be observed by families with just boys. The festival seems to be a celebration of femininity and characterises one of the five seasonal festivals of Japan. Families will celebrate with prayers and a wealth of special foods and drinks for the occasion. The tradition originated in China and was brought to Japan during Japan’s interchange of culture with China. The festival-style origins of this custom can be traced back to the Heian Period (794 – 1185) although the celebrations have changed significantly in modern times compared to what they were a thousand years ago. During the Heian Period, Doll’s Day was not connected specifically with females; it was an annual festival during which people prayed to the gods for good fortune and health. Originally, this festival was celebrated by the wealthy and the noble, yet was gradually adopted by the lower classes over time. Rather than the ceramic, polished dolls we are familiar with today being used, straw or paper dolls in paper boats were constructed and floated down the nearby river, akin to the original ancient Chinese custom. These straw dolls would represent

Culture Agenda: Hinamatsuri

their human counterparts, and sailing down the river represented the purification of any sins that the makers had made, the bad energy latching itself onto the dolls instead of the people; thus, the misfortunes sailed away as the paper boats floated out to sea. This style of celebration is less common in contemporary Japan; nowadays, people choose to display their hina dolls sewn into Heian-style dressing in their homes, believing that by displaying them and paying their respects, their hardships will be carried away, as the river used to carry them away all those years ago. The displaying of dolls was first recorded during the Edo Period (1603 – 1868). However, every year on Doll’s Day at the Shimogamo Shrine in northern Kyoto, ‘Nagashibina’ - the traditional celebration using boats - can be observed. The order of the dolls that people set out in their homes is very precise. The larger, more traditional displays are arranged in tiers of seven or more. At the top of the display sits the male odairisama on the right and the female ohinasama on the left. However, in the Kanto area, these two dolls are arranged the opposite way around. Below these two essential figures sits the rest of what symbolises the Heian Imperial Court – three court ladies or sannin kanjo, the court band or gonin bayashi, two ministers or zujin and below these sits three court officials. Beneath the court officials

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is furniture and an imperial coach arranged on their appropriate tier. All of these dolls and fixtures are placed on the familiar red carpet. Furthermore, it is not uncommon to see each display – be it big or small – dotted with peach blossoms. This is because hinamatsuri is also known as momo no sekku or ‘Peach Festival’, as the March date coincides with the peach blossom season. To set up the dolls is seen as a symbol of good luck. Families begin to display their dolls in early February, but are very strict about when they should be taken down. It is seen as bad luck if the dolls are left up too long after the festival, with families opting to tidy away their displays a few days after the celebrations. Hinamatsuri represents family, females and a part of traditional Japanese culture that has not been lost through the modernisation of Japan. It is something that marks an important time in the lives of many Japanese people. ————

For more information, please visit:

https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/dictio/senshoku/hina.html

or enquire at your local tourist centre.

the ’ D o

Aroun

HIRETOKO NATIONAL PARK juts out from Eastern Hokkaido on the Shiretoko Peninsula. Only part of the peninsula is accessible by car; the rest is best explored on foot or by boat. Snowshoeing in the winter is beautiful and has the added benefit of you not having to worry about bears. Shiretoko is stunning all year round and has very different things to see in the winter and in the summer. The Shiretoko Pass road that connects Utoro and Rausu is closed to cars during the winter but you can instead snowshoe on it. In the winter, many hawks and eagles migrate down from Russia. Snowshoes can be rented at the visitor’s center but it is important that you check the opening times to ensure that they are open during your trip. A word of caution: the hours for many of the restaurants and stores are different in the winter, with many places closing or the opening hours being shortened; if there is a storm or whiteout, the stores, including the Seicomart, may close completely and so will the roads. There are boats that can be taken to see the drift ice from both Rausu and Utoro. From spring to early fall, boats leave from Utoro and travel up the coast where you can catch glimpses of bears, and lots of other wildlife. When I tried to take the cruise last October the waves were too high. We had made reservations and our tickets were cancelled at no cost. On the cruises from Rausu you can see whales, dolphins, and lots of birds. The Five Lakes is a beautiful area for hiking. There are trails on boardwalks which require a very short free orientation. The longer trails require a more indepth orientation which has a small fee. There are also many guided hikes.

Shiretoko

知床 by Katherine Sorrows photos by author

Shiretoko

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Shiretoko has many places to explore and things to do in all seasons. There are waterfalls and onsens, as well as picturesque scenery and lots of animals. The Oshinkoshin waterfall is stunning when it is frozen in the winter. The Michi-no-Eki – or roadside rest area often has deer and bear meat (onsens and Michi-noEki may be closed or inaccessible in winter so make sure to check first!) There are many nature and visitor centers throughout the park, most of which have shortened hours in the winter. Many of them do have a fair number of the exhibits translated and have lots of information about what to do or see. One of the things I have enjoyed most in Shiretoko is driving in or out of the park during sunrise or sunset; the peninsula is mountainous and the sunrise and sunset over the ocean are breathtaking. There are many places online with information in English about Shiretoko and during bear season the visitor and nature centers have maps showing where the bears have been sighted recently. Because it is so famous there is a lot of English and other foreign language information. ————

Here is the UNESCO page about Shiretoko as a World Heritage Center: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1193

There are many websites I found just by googling, but also I would recommend stopping in a visitor center towards the beginning of your trip. I was able to find out where certain wildlife was and what trails and roads were best at the specific time I was there. For more information, please visit: https://www.shiretoko.asia/world/index.html or https:// www.japan-guide.com/e/e6850.html

Oshinkoshin Waterfall Shiretoko National Park Shari, Hokkaido

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shiretoko is stunning all year round and has very different things to see in the winter and in the summer.â&#x20AC;?

Shiretoko

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A dragonfly seen at Shiretoko Five Lakes.

A stream at Shiretoko Five Lakes.

Moonrise over drift ice at Rausu (Andrew Gerber)

Shiretoko

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Mt. Rausu, as seen from the Second Pond on the trail to Lake Rausu. Left: A stream at Shiretoko Five Lakes. (Andrew Gerber)

Yukikabe Walk, in early April, lures countless visitors to watch over 8m of snow being cleared from Shiretoko Pass. (Andrew Gerber)

Shiretoko

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P H O T O G A L L E RY

Noboribetsu by Rehan Nel

Photo Gallery

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Ice fishing at Notsuke Peninsula by Rachel Bartholomew

Photo Gallery

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from the Kitami Concert Nivedh Sreejit

Photo Gallery

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