Accommodation

clothing as possible (especially a helmet, which is the law).

You will almost certainly break down at some point, in which case you will need a mechanic (mistri), who can be found in larger villages, towns and cities. If you’re in the middle of nowhere, stop any passing vehicle and ask them to call a mechanic out to you; you’ll be expected to pay Rs100–150 extra for a call-out. Figure on paying about Rs10 for something that’s very quick to fix (under 5min), or for bigger problems around Rs100/hour, plus parts. It’s a good idea to watch the work being done, as unscrupulous mechanics have been known to take new parts from within the engine and replace them with old ones.

When renting, you may have to leave an air ticket, passport or sum of money as a deposit. Check brakes, oil and fuel level, horn, lights and indicators before setting off, and note that rented bikes carry no insurance – if you break anything, you pay for it. Street bikes can be rented from about Rs500–650 a day, excluding petrol. Most visitors tend to plump for the larger Enfield, which cost more like Rs1500 (and up) a day; these have a lot more heft for long-distance cruising, but are also heavy and hard to handle off-road, and more expensive to run and maintain.

If you buy a bike, note that Enfields are considerably more expensive in Nepal than in India (some people buy them in India, and drive them to Nepal to sell for a profit) – a newish secondhand Enfield will set you back over Rs300,000 in Kathmandu. Secondhand, smaller 100–150cc bikes can be bought easily from as little as Rs15,000. Added to these costs are an extra Rs4700 for the ownership registration transfer (which should be arranged by the seller). It’s possible to get to most places on a 100cc bike (this edition was partly researched on one), though for the mountains something over 150cc is far preferable – the Bajaj Pulsar 200cc or 220cc is the most popular bike for locals in more remote mountainous regions.

Finally, bear in mind that biking around Nepal is a great experience, but roads are atrocious and drivers can be reckless. If you don’t have experience driving in similar conditions, it would be advisable to start out by taking an organized motorcycle tour, which are not only much safer as you’re in a group, but easy to organize in Kathmandu (see p.97).

Bicycles

A rented bicycle (saikal) is the logical choice for most day-to-day getting around. One-speeders are good enough for most around-town cycling, and cost Rs150–300 per day. Mountain bikes will get you there in greater comfort, and are essential for longer distances or anything steep – a few shops in

Kathmandu and Pokhara rent top-quality models for Rs1000–2500. Bike rental shops are rare beyond Kathmandu, Pokhara and Sauraha, but you can often strike a deal with a lodge owner. Check the brakes, spokes, tyres and chain carefully before setting off; a bell is essential. Repair shops are everywhere, but don’t have mountain-bike parts. Theft is a concern with flashier bikes.

City transport

Taxis are confined mainly to Kathmandu and Pokhara. Although they have meters, you’ll almost always have to negotiate the fare. Fixed-route tempos, three-wheeled vehicles, set off when they’re full and stop at designated points; they’re noisy and most of them – except Kathmandu’s white electric Saafa (“clean”) tempos – put out noxious fumes. Cycle rikshaws – rare now outside the Terai and Thamel – are slow and bumpy, but handy for short distances; establish a fare before setting off. City buses, minibuses (shorter ordinary buses) and microbuses (white Toyota people-carriers) are usually too crowded, slow or infrequent to be worthwhile, but can be useful in the Kathmandu Valley.

Accommodation Finding a place to sleep is hardly ever a problem in Nepal, although only the established tourist centres offer much of a choice. Prices vary considerably, depending on where you stay and when. You can pay anything from a couple of dollars per night in a trekking lodge to more than US$350 in a wildlife resort, but guesthouses, where most travellers stay, typically charge between US$5 and US$35.

Outside the high seasons (late September to mid-November and late February to late March), or if things are unusually quiet, prices can drop by up to fifty percent: the simple question “discount paunchha?” (“any discount?”) will often do the trick. ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs= Note that official tariffs don’t generally include the government and service taxes (13 percent and 10 percent respectively); rates are usually quoted as “plus plus”, meaning that both need to be applied. Offers made on the spot at ordinary guesthouses, however, are generally all-in – make sure you check. Most places have a range of rooms, from budget, shared-bathroom boxes to en suites with a/c and

The accommodation prices quoted in this guide are based on the cost of the least expensive double room in the high season (late Sept to mid-Nov and late Feb to late March), and include the government (13 percent) and service taxes (10 percent) that are not generally included in the official tariff quoted by the hotel.

Room prices are given in the currency quoted by the hotel, generally either Nepali rupees or US dollars, though some places quote in euros. Note that prices quoted in foreign currency don’t tend to change much, but those given in Nepali rupees are likely to be considerably higher than quoted due to annual inflation of 8–10 percent.

TVs. Single rooms are usually doubles offered at between half and two-thirds of the full price. Hotels and guesthouses take bookings, and reservations are often necessary in the busy seasons, during local festivals or if you’re arriving late at night.

Lodges

Off-the-beaten-track lodges are aimed at Nepali travellers, and are usually known as “hotel and lodge” (confusingly, the “hotel” bit means there’s somewhere to eat). Some are reasonably comfortable, but more often than not you’ll have to settle for something fairly insalubrious. Stark concrete floors, cold-water showers and smelly squat toilets are the rule, though you’ll rarely pay more than Rs350–500. It’s a good idea to bring your own sleeping-bag liner to protect against bedbugs and lice, and earplugs to block out the inevitable noise. In the Terai, try to get a room with a mosquito net and a working fan (or a/c).

This is not to say that Nepali lodges are to be avoided. Often the most primitive places – where you sit by a smoky fire and eat with your hosts – are the most rewarding. Trekking lodges on less-travelled routes (see p.314) can take this form, though there are some remarkably comfortable ones out there too.

Budget guesthouses

Kathmandu and Pokhara have their own tourist quarters where fierce competition among budget guesthouses ensures great value. In these enclaves, all but the very cheapest places provide hot running water (though perhaps only sporadically), flush toilets, foam mattresses and clean sheets and blankets. Elsewhere in Nepal, expect rooms to be plainer and scruffier. Most guesthouses also offer some sort of roof-terrace or garden, a phone and TV. They’re rarely heated, however, making them rather cold in winter. Rooms in most budget places cost Rs350–1000, and standards vary considerably; the cheapest options often have shared bathrooms.

Mid-range guesthouses

Guesthouses

Many tourist-oriented places to stay in Nepal call themselves guesthouses. This category covers everything from primitive dosshouses to wellappointed small hotels. Most places offer a spread of rooms at different prices, and sometimes dorm beds too. By and large, those that cater to foreigners do so efficiently: most innkeepers speak excellent English, and can arrange anything for you from laundry to trekking/porter hire.

Despite assurances to the contrary, you can’t necessarily count on constant hot water (many places rely on solar panels) nor uninterrupted electricity (power cuts are a daily occurrence, though some establishments have generators). If

constant hot water is important to you, ask what kind of water-heating system the guesthouse has – best of all is “geyser” (pronounced “geezer”), which means an electric immersion heater or backup. All but the really cheap guesthouses will have a safe, and the smarter places sometimes have security boxes in each room. Mid-range guesthouses (for lack of a better term) are increasingly popular. Rooms tend to be bigger and come with a fan (or even a/c), and often a phone and TV. Toilet paper is provided in the bathrooms, and the hot water is more reliable. The better ones will provide a portable electric heater in winter. Expect to pay Rs1000–3500 for a double room of this sort. Most mid-range guesthouses quote their prices in dollars, though you can pay in rupees and sometimes even with credit cards.ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs=

Hotels and resorts

It’s hard to generalize about the more expensive hotels and resorts. Some charge a hefty premium to insulate you from the Nepal you came to see, while others offer unique experiences. Prices for international-type features begin at around the US$50 mark, but you should expect to pay in the