ACCOMMODATION BASICS Kathmandu and Pokhara rent top-quality models clothing as possible (especially a helmet, which is for Rs1000–2500. the law). Bike rental shops are rare beyond Kathmandu, You will almost certainly break down at some point, Pokhara and Sauraha, but you can often strike a in which case you will need a mechanic (mistri), who deal with a lodge owner. Check the brakes, spokes, can be found in larger villages, towns and cities. If tyres and chain carefully before setting off; a bell is you’re in the middle of nowhere, stop any passing essential. Repair shops are everywhere, but don’t vehicle and ask them to call a mechanic out to you; have mountain-bike parts. Theft is a concern with you’ll be expected to pay Rs100–150 extra for a flashier bikes. call-out. Figure on paying about Rs10 for something that’s very quick to fix (under 5min), or for bigger problems around Rs100/hour, plus parts. It’s a good City transport idea to watch the work being done, as unscrupulous mechanics have been known to take new parts from Taxis are confined mainly to Kathmandu and within the engine and replace them with old ones. Pokhara. Although they have meters, you’ll almost When renting, you may have to leave an air ticket, always have to negotiate the fare. Fixed-route passport or sum of money as a deposit. Check brakes, tempos, three-wheeled vehicles, set off when oil and fuel level, horn, lights and indicators before they’re full and stop at designated points; they’re setting off, and note that rented bikes carry no noisy and most of them – except Kathmandu’s white insurance – if you break anything, you pay for it. Street electric Saafa (“clean”) tempos – put out noxious bikes can be rented from about Rs500–650 a day, fumes. Cycle rikshaws – rare now outside the Terai excluding petrol. Most visitors tend to plump for the and Thamel – are slow and bumpy, but handy for larger Enfield, which cost more like Rs1500 (and up) a short distances; establish a fare before setting off. day; these have a lot more heft for long-distance City buses, minibuses (shorter ordinary buses) and cruising, but are also heavy and hard to handle microbuses (white Toyota people-carriers) are off-road, and more expensive to run and maintain. usually too crowded, slow or infrequent to be worthIf you buy a bike, note that Enfields are considerwhile, but can be useful in the Kathmandu Valley. ably more expensive in Nepal than in India (some people buy them in India, and drive them to Nepal to sell for a profit) – a newish secondhand Enfield will set you back over Rs300,000 in Kathmandu. Secondhand, smaller 100–150cc bikes can be bought easily Finding a place to sleep is hardly ever a from as little as Rs15,000. Added to these costs are an problem in Nepal, although only the extra Rs4700 for the ownership registration transfer established tourist centres offer much (which should be arranged by the seller). It’s possible of a choice. Prices vary considerably, to get to most places on a 100cc bike (this edition depending on where you stay and when. was partly researched on one), though for the You can pay anything from a couple of mountains something over 150cc is far preferable – dollars per night in a trekking lodge to the Bajaj Pulsar 200cc or 220cc is the most popular more than US$350 in a wildlife resort, bike for locals in more remote mountainous regions. but guesthouses, where most travellers Finally, bear in mind that biking around Nepal is a stay, typically charge between US$5 and great experience, but roads are atrocious and drivers US$35. can be reckless. If you don’t have experience driving Outside the high seasons (late September to in similar conditions, it would be advisable to start mid-November and late February to late March), or out by taking an organized motorcycle tour, if things are unusually quiet, prices can drop by up which are not only much safer as you’re in a group, to fifty percent: the simple question “discount ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs= but easy to organize in Kathmandu (see p.97). paunchha?” (“any discount?”) will often do the trick. Note that official tariffs don’t generally include the Bicycles government and service taxes (13 percent and 10 percent respectively); rates are usually quoted as A rented bicycle (saikal) is the logical choice for “plus plus”, meaning that both need to be applied. most day-to-day getting around. One-speeders are Offers made on the spot at ordinary guesthouses, good enough for most around-town cycling, and however, are generally all-in – make sure you check. cost Rs150–300 per day. Mountain bikes will get Most places have a range of rooms, from budget, you there in greater comfort, and are essential for shared-bathroom boxes to en suites with a/c and longer distances or anything steep – a few shops in
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