ISSUE NO.14 Editor Kristie Webster kristie@ponyanarchy.com COVER Photography: Elise Borsboom Model: Encarna @ Micha Models Stylist & Clothing: Jessica Antonio of JANT. Contact General enquiries: hello@ponyanarchy.com Website: www.ponyanarchy.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/ponyanarchymagazine Twitter: @ponyanarchy Instagram: @ponyanarchymag Advertising For rates and information on advertising and sponsored giveaways please contact us for a media kit. Copyright is reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited. Email addresses are published for professional communications only.
Contents Editors Note Page 04 Feature: Fun Finds Page 05 Interview: Claire Van Heukelom
Page 06
Interview: Lenara Choudhury
Page 08
Moon Dreamers by Elenna Studio
Page 10
Interview: Daniela Gerosa Page 16 Interview: Essie Holt Page 18 Big Brown Eyes by Magdalena Cza jka
Page 20
Interview: The Jungle Giants
Page 28
Interview: Tiffany Atkin Page 30 Interview: byHelo Page 34 Sky is a Neighbourhood by Daniela Gerosa
Page 36
Interview: Evgeniya Manko Page 44 Feature: Sustainable & Ethical Fashion
Page 46
Interview: Ricepaper The Label
Page 48
Interview: JANT. Page 50 Interview: Camp Cove Swim
Page 52
Pretty, Please by Allison Morris
Page 56
Interview: Allison Morris Page 58 Interview: Kaitlin Keegan Page 60 Green House by Kalindy Williams
Page 64
Editors Note Oh hey. It’s been a minute! Almost 3 years, actually. Did you miss me? Many of you are probably wondering why Pony Anarchy suddenly went on hiatus back in 2015 and so I’m here to explain. To be brutally honest, I fell out of love with the magazine. Something that once inspired and challenged me, no longer excited me and ended up feeling more and more like a chore. I struggled to find time to work on the magazine whilst also working full-time elsewhere. I needed a break. Not only from the magazine but from my life. Like most twenty-somethings going through their quarter-life crisis, I decided I wanted to travel the world, learn new things and be selfish for a while. So I did. I moved from Australia to London and it was by far the best thing I’ve ever done. I saw beautiful places, met amazing people, drank too much, ate too much and spent all of my savings. I learnt more about myself in those two years of living in London than I have in the other twenty-four years of living on this Earth. Taking a break from the magazine made me realise just how much I missed and loved working on this project. I love that I get to connect with amazingly talented creatives from all over the globe, share their work and inspire others. So there you have it! I’m back in Australia now and glad to be working on Pony Anarchy again. As usual, this issue is chock-a-block full of interviews with some amazing designers, artists, musicians and photographers! I chat with three budding fashion designers about what sustainable fashion means to them and what they are doing to minimise the impact of their garments on the world both environmentally and ethically. I also find out what Brisbane’s indie-rockers, The Jungle Giants, have been getting up too since the release of their third album and Canadian fine-art photographer, Allison Morris, explains how her work challenges societies representation of the ideal female body. So grab a coffee, tea or wine and sit yourself down for some quality inspiration time. Lastly, thank you to all of our contributors for your inspiring work and taking the time to share it with us. Kristie x
WOLF & MOON
FOX & RAMONA
audette
abo shoes
Wolf & Moon is a handcrafted jewellery label by British designer Hannah Davis. Inspired by nature, architecture, art and design Hannah makes unique, wearable jewellery for the modern woman.
Fox & Ramona is Melbourne based homewares label run that handmakes a range of bold and original concrete goodies including concrete plates, platters, bowls, dishes, cones, vases, and planters.
Audette is a leather accessories label run by Parisian designers, Aude and Charles. Handcrafted with passion and precision, Audette pieces are Instantly recognisable for their distinct shapes and bright colours.
ABO Shoes is a Serbian label putting the fun back in footwear with their bright, colourful and unique leather shoes. Founded in 2013 by sisters Iva and Ana Ljubinkovic, each pair of shoes are handmade in limited series in timeless and versatile designs.
www.wolfandmoon.com
www.foxandramona.com.au
www.audette-shop.com
www.abo-shoes.com
HEW
made by maddie
ephemera
pedrusco
Established in 2014 by designer Ema Hewitt, HEW delivers garments with a focus on quality, print and colour. Each season Ema collaborates with local designers to create innovative prints that set the label aside from everyone else.
Made By Maddie is a handmade collection of funky, fresh statement earrings, owned and operated by country gal Madeleine Hunt. Through her earrings, Maddie aims to bring a little ray of sunshine into everyone’s lives!
Ephemera is an Australian swimwear brand founded by designer Nicole Banning. Creating beautiful must-have pieces, the brand focuses on classic cuts, superior fabrication and interesting colour combinations.
Pedrusco is a handmade ceramic jewelry label based in BIlbao, Spain. Inspired by nature, decorated geometric designs in Nordic culture, each piece is molded and glazed by hand, making each them a unique and exclusive accessory.
www.hewclothing.com
www.madebymaddie.com.au
www.ephemeralive.com
www.pedrusco.org
Claire van Heukelom We chat to DUTCH ARTIST & DESIGNER, CLAIRE VAN HEUKELOM about her DREAMY ILLUSTRATIONS and LOVE FOR NATURE. Please tell us a little about yourself and what you do. My name is Claire van Heukelom and I am a freelance graphic designer and illustrator. I am originally from the Netherlands where I lived close to the beach, but now I live in the beautiful mountains in the South of France. Looking out the window I see a forest of impressive ancient chestnut trees with the French Alps in the background. What path led you to become a freelance illustrator? I went to art school in the Netherlands and since then have worked as an independent graphic designer, illustrator and art teacher. I love having variety in my work and days, and being independently employed has been great because I’ve been able to explore new areas of design like theatre and furniture design. How would you describe your artistic style? I am drawn to a soft, muted colour palette that I like to combine with hand drawn typography. Where do you find your creative inspiration? Nature, old books about art and design, vintage stuff, visiting museums, friends, architecture, interior design, photography, I could go on forever... Are there any specific themes that you like to explore in your work? Since moving to the
French mountains, with the forest at our doorstep, I’ve found that my work is more and more inspired by the nature. What do you do in your spare time? I often knit sweaters and socks made with wool from my neighbour’s sheep, that is spun locally. Can you give us a little insight into your creative process? What materials/tools do you use? Sketches go into my sketch books, but also on pieces of paper that lay around the house. From there I work on chalk paper with my beloved mechanical pencil and fine liners. After that I digitally colour my drawings. But the most work definitely goes into drawing everything by hand. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Stay calm and work hard. Are there any emerging designers, artists or other creatives that you are loving right now? Laura Lhuillier is a French graphic designer and she makes highly detailed animated illustrations in beautiful colour combinations, that are right up my alley. What has been your biggest hurdle artistically and how did you overcome it? When things get difficult I tend to get stressed. But in the long run I find it most helpful to take a step back and try a more relaxed approach. I’m still working on that though… Are you working on any exciting projects at the moment? I recently made my first tea towel design and that was so much fun! I’m working on new designs at the moment and I cannot wait until they are finished. You can see more of Claire’s work at clairevanheukelom.nl or @clairevanheukelom
LENARA CHOUDHURY We chat to PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHER LENARA CHOUDHURY about her work and where she finds creative inspiration. Tell us a little about yourself and what path led you to photography. I’m a London based fashion & portrait photographer, shooting on both analogue and digital. I moved from my hometown, Southampton to study Business at a London University, but after 6 months I realised it wasn’t for me. That’s when I gave photography a go. I practiced a lot with my friends, family and anyone who was up for it. Soon after that I was forced to create a blog, called it something really cringe but thanks to that it landed me a junior photographer role, where I was very fortunate to meet some of the industry’s most incredibly talented and inspiring people. How would you describe your photographic style? Clean and natural with personality. Where do you find your creative inspiration? When it’s not my friends, family and partners… it’s usually from other photographers such as Ryan McGinley, Sally Mann, David Shrigley & Ren Hang. McGinley makes me feel free, Mann makes me want to learn and Shrigley tells me to not take shit too seriously and Ren Hang inspires me to take risks. Which part of your
work process do you enjoy the most? Meeting the people, I’m shooting with and getting to know them a little. I think it’s important to create the right vibe so everyone is comfortable – the more comfortable you are the better results you get. So to create that we usually grab a cuppa and talk. If you could work alongside any one photographer who would it be? And why? Ryan McGinley – I just love the freedom, nudity and relationships in his work. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Always be willing to learn and stay humble. Do you have any tips for other aspiring photographers like yourself? This might be terrible advice but… Don’t take rejection personally, instead be constructive about it. It’s important to get out there, network and be a little silly with it. A shit joke or an awkward conversation with a stranger in the industry doesn’t do anyone any harm. You never know it might land you a few jobs along the way! Are you working on anything in particular at the moment? I’m currently working on some new material for my third solo exhibition – which will hopefully take place on summer 2019. I’ll be exploring a lot more on the human body, in a more documentary form, combined with architectural inspiration. What are three things that most people don’t know about you? I’m afraid of heights, love Britney Spears and hate raisins. To see more of Lenara’s work visit www.lenarachoudhury.co.uk
MOON DREAMERS Photographer - ELENNA ModelS - Ana & Monika @ Tijara Model Mgmt Make-up ARTIST- Tena Cvitanovi
DANIELA GEROSA We chat to PHOTOGRAPHER DANIELA GEROSA about her love for photography & NOT GIVING A FUCK WHAT OTHER PEOPLE THINK.
music itself. Which part of your work process do you enjoy the most? I think that would be actually taking the photos and seeing the final result just really fills my heart. If you could work alongside any one photographer who would it be? And why? That is a hard question. I really don’t have favourites, I just have stages. At this moment I think I would choose London based fashion photographer, Agata Pospieszynska, she is such an inspiration! What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Do whatever you are passionate about and fuck what everybody else thinks. Do you have any tips for other aspiring photographers like yourself? Keep trying. Persistence is the most valuable virtue you can have as a photographer or in any other creative field. Are you working on anything in particular at the moment? I’m working on an editorial I’ve been wanting to shoot for the past year, inspired on David Lynch’s work, so all very exciting. What do you hope to achieve in your photographic career? To fill my heart with love for as many of my photos as I possibly can and to get to work with amazingly talented people. What are three things that most people don’t know about you? I’m a vegetarian, I’m very bad at social networking and once I start a book or a tv series I HAVE to finish them, no matter how bad they turn out to be.
Tell us a little about yourself and what drew you to photography? I’m Daniela Gerosa a photographer from Rosario, Argentina but currently based in London. I’ve also lived in New Zealand, Italy and Ireland and I’m moving to Barcelona soon, so as you can guess, I like to keep moving around. I started taking photos in 2009, when I quit my Physics degree and didn’t really know what to do with my life. I’m self-taught and began photographing my friends, dressing them up and taking them to cool places and just shooting away the afternoon. Although I really started my career when I first moved to Italy and got to shoot some tests for Milan based modelling agencies. How would you describe your photographic style? It’s actually hard for me to see my own photographic style but I like to photograph women in their natural state - dancing, moving, laughing, just being themselves. Also, I don’t like to use Photoshop much except for editing colours, because I think we women are beautiful as we are. Where do you find your creative inspiration? Mostly in movies, music videos, other photographers and To see more of Daniela’s work visit www.danielagerosa.com or @danielagerosaph
ESSIE HOLT We chat to MELBOURNE BASED SIGNER-SONGWRITER, JESS HOLT ABOUT HER LATEST SINGLE AND MUSIC MAKING PROCESS What are three things that most people don’t know about you? I have an Insta famous little French Bulldog named Leonardo! I love to run – it gives me life. And I quite often go to gigs by myself, because most of the time I enjoy them better that way. Soz friends! What is your earliest memory of music? Probably dancing around the living room singing to my parent’s CDs at the age of about 3 years old. I just remember the energy it gave me, like nothing I’d ever experienced. How old were you when you started writing your own songs? I wrote my first song around the age of 12 I think. But it wasn’t very good... it was just something I kept doing because it was a way of getting out what I wanted to say. I started to teach myself piano and guitar and started to really study music. Then around the age of 16 I decided music was what I wanted to do with my life, so I began to focus really hard on making it happen. Who or what would you say are your biggest influences? My biggest influences are those around me actually! But in terms of musical influences, it would be incredible female pop artists like Lykke Li, Cat Power, Tori Amos, Megan Washington and Missy Higgins! Which part of the music making process do you enjoy the most? There’s something pretty amazing about the initial feeling you get in the studio when you write a hook, or a lyric that just works and feels really good! I also love recording vocals. I’m pretty pedantic about my vocal takes! Your latest single ‘Better For You’ was produced by Mark Zito (Fractures) and mixed by Dave Hammer – what was it
like working with those two? Mark is honestly my dream collaborator. He’s an absolute genius and so prolific and totally gets my vision for the project. It’s been so fun writing together and having him produce my upcoming EP! And Dave is the funniest, most amazing friend and creative being. I really respect his work and it’s so great to see him get some really cool recognition lately! The single has also just been added to spot rotation on triple j. That must feel pretty good? I was so stoked when I got the news. It’s really lovely and I’m so appreciative of the support triple j are showing towards these tunes! It’s especially a great feeling because I’ve listened to triple j for years and have discovered many of my favourite artists there. You are currently on the road supporting LANKS on his album tour, and then have two headline shows of your own next month - what is your favourite thing about playing live shows? These shows have been the absolute best fun. It’s so lovely having people come down early each night to check out our set. I’m also really excited for my headline shows! It’s our first time headlining Sydney, so that should be great. Playing live gives me the biggest most exhilarating feeling – I’m literally buzzing when I come off stage. I love the energy the crowd gives me. We hear you’re currently working on your debut EP – what can you tell us about it? Yeah! We’re working on my debut EP now – it’s really starting to come together. I think I’ve got all of the tracks locked down but I’m always writing and there’s a chance some last-minute additions might make it on there as well! Do you have any advice for other emerging musicians out there? Find your people! Having a support network is so important and collaborating is such a great experience! Write as much as you possibly can and go to gigs to meet other musos in a similar scene. Also, keep going! To find our more about Essie Holt head to www.essieholt.com.au
big brown eyes photographer - Magdalena Czajka Model - Natalia @ Wave Models Stylist - Ewa Michalik MAKE-UP artist - Ola Kazmierczak
THE JUNGLE GIants We chat to Cesira Aitken, LEAD GUITARIST OF the JUNGLE GIANTS, ABOUT the bands most recent album & their biggest influences. Tell us a little about the band and what path led you to a career in music? We all went to school together and met each other through just general music things that we were apart of. Sam (vocalist/guitarist) was a year above us the rest of us and during our last year of school, while Sam was out of school writing music, he slaved away a couple of jobs to save up money to record an EP. By the time we finished school Sam was pretty much ready to go and in December 2010 we recorded our first E.P. How would you describe your music? Alternative Pop/Indie Rock. Who or what would you say are the bands biggest influences? It’s always changing but at the moment I’d say we’re influenced by a lot of instrumental dance music. Your third and most recent album ‘Quiet Ferocity’ was recorded and produced entirely by yourselves. How different was the record making experience compared to your other two albums? Beyond Sam’s year of daily 9am-5pm writing, we approached the recording a new a way as well. Instead of bunkering down and going away for a five to six week recording block, instead we did short five day blocks of recording. We recorded locally too so we’d go home every night and come back in the morning. It was great being able to have a sleep on what we had done and come back fresh every day, rather than feel pressured by being in the one space for a block of time and feeling like if something wasn’t complete that we had to punish ourselves to get it done
or were not using our time effectively. Also, Sam really had a all the ideas for production nutted out through the demo process which then made recording a far smoother process. It was really a great time. Definitely how we wanna do things moving forward. You guys had 4 songs from the album in triple j’s Hottest 100 and recently won album of the year at the Australian Independent Records awards. How does it feel to have had such a great response to the album? The Hottest 100 and AIR award results really surprised us. We were all just so happy. None of it gets lost on us, we are really grateful. You’re playing the 18+ Yours & Owls Festival as well as the all ages sideshow next month. Are you excited that you have the opportunity to play both events? Absolutely! We get to have a hoon on stage twice in a day. Love it. Keen. Do you have any advice for other emerging bands that are trying to break into the industry? I reckon something thats really worked for us is just being fearless in taking our time asking questions. Whether you think it sounds silly or your under time constraints, just take time to nut it out with all the people directly involved and anyone else you think can help. No need for rushed and un-informed decisions. Are there any emerging musicians, artists or designers that you’re really into at the moment? Really into Hatchie. She’s killing it. Can’t wait till she releases more music. She’s also a friend/local Brisbane angel. Bless her. What do you think would you be doing if you weren’t making music? The only other thing I’m half good at is cooking. Are you guys working on any new material at the moment? Sammy has always got Jungle Giants music on the hob. Always working. For more info on the band visit www.thejunglegiants.com
TIFFANY ATKIN We chat to BRISBANE DESIGNER & ILLUSTRATOR, TIFFANY ATKIN about FINDING CREATIVE INSPIRATION & OVERCOMING SELF-DOUBT. Tell us a little about yourself. I’m Tiff, a freelance designer and illustrator based in Brisbane. I work from my home studio, and currently split my time between client work, private commissions, and my own personal projects. I’ve always got a side project on the go, I write and make music in my spare time, and my favourite food is ¥1.50 salmon onigiri from Lawson combini in Tokyo. When I’m not illustrating, I help small creative biz and indie labels with branding and other visual things. What path led you to becoming a designer/illustrator? When I left high school all I wanted to do was music. I was playing regular gigs and writing a lot. I’m from a family of musicians, my parents met when they joined the same band in the 70s. Although they were pretty successful and my dad still works in the music industry, I knew the reality of music as a career was pretty tough. I enrolled to study design one day on a whim, as a bit of a back-up plan. I enjoyed it more than I expected, and really fell in love with visual communication and it all just grew from there. When I started experimenting with illustration, I was editorial designer at a magazine and I was fortunate enough to have them publish some of my early work alongside some editorial pieces. This led to some great opportunities, and my journey into illustration as a career started taking shape from there. How would you describe your artistic style? It’s always hard describing your own work, but my illustrations are definitely influenced by my
time in Japan (I lived there for a few years when I was starting out). It’s evolved over the years but I’m still pretty hooked on that pastel palette! Although I’ll make a lot of textures and marks traditionally with paint, ink, pencils and pens, most of my work ends up digital in the end. I’ve always been fascinated by mixing analogue and digital methods, and I like my work to retain a hand-drawn, tactile feel with lots of natural texture and movement, sketchy lines that convey raw emotion and not too much polish. I sometimes still struggle with knowing when something is done, especially with endless undo and layers at your disposal when working digitally, but I’m far better at editing myself these days I think Where do you find your creative inspiration? Emotions + feelings inspire a lot of my work, but also people, places, travel, Japanese aesthetic, the female form, texture, colour. I have Chromesthesia which is a form of Synaesthesia where sounds, words or music evoke certain colours (my mum and brother have it too) so colours can give me some really strong feelings and conjure certain images and emotions as well. That always inspires me. Can you give us a little insight into your process? What materials do you use? For client design work, particularly branding, I always start away from the computer, with a notebook and pencil. For illustration, I usually start in Photoshop almost straight away, I use a Wacom Cintiq and just start sketching. I’ll usually have an idea or a few reference pics first, then I’ll flip through my library of scans of analogue marks and textures I’ve made previously to see if there’s anything I might want to use. If I don’t find anything suitable I’ll get out the art supplies and make what I need for that particular piece. I’d like to say it’s all planned out from the start but so much of the best parts of what I end up with are the result of happy accidents – I love
that about art. The most important part of my process is the last 10% of editing I do at the very end when I thought I was done, and usually involves stripping back layers and simplifying/masking out parts for more interesting effects and changing colours around until I’m happy. What has been your biggest hurdle artistically and how did you overcome it? Myself. 100%. I am constantly looking for ways to overcome my own mind! I make sure I get away from the screen when I’m struggling, or pack up my desk and go work from a café or co-working space for the day. I also make sure I meet up with friends for after-work drinks as it holds me to a finishing time. Going for a walk along the river and patting all the dogs is my other go-to head-clearing activity. Social media can be a pretty tough place to be when you’re not feeling great, so I try to stay away if I’m a bit down or suffering creative block. The instant validation you get from posting your work and getting a flood of positive feedback can offer a quick boost to get you over an initial sad-sesh – but I always find it’s pretty short lived. I love Instagram and I owe a lot of opportunities and successes to being a part of it, but when I’m up against a mental hurdle the best thing is getting outside and reminding myself there’s a world out there. There’s nothing quite like sitting under a tree by the river and getting pooped on by a pigeon to make you forget
about a crappy client email or the painful new Instagram algorithm. The fresh air helps too! If I get stuck on a client job, and I can’t get out of the studio, I’ll often save a new version and ask myself what I’d do if it was personal work. I start working on the ‘personal’ version with no commitment and I usually end up keeping it for the client version. Just a sneaky way of tricking myself out of some self-doubt when a big job is daunting me. Are you working on anything in particular at the moment? Yes! I’m getting ready to launch my accessories label Shibuya Moon (@shibuyamoon on insta), we are debuting with a collection of statement acrylic jewellery and aiming to eventually produce scarves and other wearables featuring my illustration work, which I’m so excited about. I love seeing my work in different forms and have always experimented with printing on fabric and other surfaces, so wearable art seemed like a pretty natural progression. There’s a lot to learn though, I’ve been collaborating with local fashion design studio The New Garde on some of their projects so they’ve given me heaps of advice on sampling, and all the other things you don’t think about when you’re an illustrator wanting to dabble in fashion. To see more of Tiffany’s work visit www.tiffanyatkin.com and @tiffany_atkin
byhelo We chat to AUSTRALIAN-BASED jewellery designer, Heloise Fitzpatrick about HER CREATIVE PROCESS and doing what you love. Tell us a little about yourself and what you do? I am a jewellery designer, currently living in Western Australia. I am originally from Quebec in Canada, which explains the French way of writing Héloïse. Hélo has been my nickname for as far as I can remember hence calling my label byHélo. I am an architect by trade and I still practice part-time when I’m not working on my jewellery. What drew you to jewellery design? I took a Jewellery unit as an elective whilst studying Architecture at Curtin University and loved it so much, I then took night classes at TAFE and completed a certificate in Jewellery manufacture whilst I was pregnant with my first child. I absolutely loved it and still do! How would you describe your designs? What makes them unique? To be honest I am terrible at describing my own work and I guess that is what I love about design - you can express yourself and make others understand the mood that you are creating without too many words. But when I try to put words to it, all I think about is; beautifully simple pieces with minimalist lines and bold shapes. It’s all about developing a strong sculptural conceptual shape. For me, less is more: pure geometrical shapes are so rich and I am loving the great compositions you can achieve with them. It’s probably why I haven’t felt the need to add stones or any other materials to this day. There’s so much to explore with Bronze and Silver on their own! Where do you find your creative inspiration? Most of the time I find my inspiration in architecture, interiors, furniture & lighting design, industrial design & modern art. I also find lots of inspiration working at my bench. Can you give us a little insight into your creative process? I start with whatever has
inspired me and try to grasp the essence of what I’m trying to achieve. This helps set the mood for new pieces or new collections. Then I sketch for a little bit to get the conceptual ideas down on paper. I keep drawing very minimal and then I start making straight away, all the great discoveries happen at the bench for me, mistakes become lovely surprises, turn a piece upside down and whole new trail of ideas comes to mind. Manual work at the bench is how I create best. I couldn’t design jewellery without actually making it. What do you do when you are not making jewellery? I work with a small Architecture firm in Bunbury, WA designing houses around Perth and the South West. I also take on a few personal jobs and try to renovate our 60’s home when we get a second. I have two young kids so they keep me busy too! How do you get yourself out of a creative rut? I start making, it works every time. The bench is super therapeutic and driving for me. What advice would you give to someone interested in getting into the jewellery design? If you’re not so good with the marketing and business side of things, befriend someone who is! Are there any local designers, artists or other creatives that you are loving right now? I am loving the work of Elke Studio, Gabriella Luchini Jewels, Bobby Clark, ILKA and Simon Pendal Architect. Do you have a favourite piece from the DECO Collection? My favourite is probably the DUALITY Ring in Bronze, followed by the new MIRO earrings which will be online soon! Are you working on anything new at the moment? Always! I can’t help myself, every time I make some existing designs, I come up with new ideas. Where can our readers buy your designs? You can buy my jewellery online via my website or instore at The ILKA Family Store in Mount Hawthorn and Design Edge & Co in Carine, Western Australia. Check out more of Héloïse’s jewellery at www.byhelo.com.au
THE SKY IS A NEIGHBOURHOOD Photographer - Daniela Gerosa Model - Laura Mestre @ Portfolio Group Makeup ARTIST - Luciana Quinteros
EVGENIYA MANKO We chat to UKRANIAN ILLUSTRATOR, EVGENIYA MANKO about her CREATIVE PROCESS AND DRAWING FROM THE HEART. Tell us a little about yourself and what path led you to becoming an illustrator? My name is Evgeniya Manko and I’m an illustrator from Ukraine, Kiev. I started my career as a Fashion Photographer and would also draw in my spare time. I lived in Warsaw for some time and during this period, I realised that I wasn’t doing what I really wanted with my life and so my boyfriend encouraged me to pursue my passion and create illustrations. How would you describe your artistic style? It is difficult to assess oneself objectively. Where do you find your creative inspiration? My inspiration comes from the simple things such as walks around the city, the natural world, other people and their ideas. I am also greatly influenced by music. For me, drawing and listening to music are the perfect duet. Are there any specific themes that you like to explore in your work? There are many themes that excite me. Most of the time my work depicts the world of modern-day women. What do you do in your spare time? Yoga! I also like to try various new drawing techniques, go to exhibitions and the theatre with my mother. Can you give us a little insight into your creative process? What materials/tools do you use? My creative process isn’t always the same sometimes an idea comes quickly without any struggle and other days I can’t even sit down and start to work. I usually start with some sketches and then edit them in Illustrator or work with paints. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Never stop. What has been your biggest hurdle artistically and how did you overcome it? The ability to stand out. To do this, you need to draw from the heart. Are you working on any exciting projects at the moment? If I’m honest, not all of my proposals are interesting, but most of the time yes! I like to work on different projects as each one is always a new experience. Check out more of Evgeniya’s work on Instagram @eugeniamanko
SUSTAINABLE & ETHICAL FASHION The fashion industry is the second biggest polluter in the world and is also responsible for countless human rights violations. Therefore it’s more important than ever, to think about how we, as makers and consumers, can reduce our impact both environmentally and socially. Making the switch to an environmentally friendly wardrobe can seem quite daunting to begin with, so we’ve put together a selection of ethical and sustainable labels to help you get started! We also spoke to three exciting emerging designers about their own efforts to minimize the harmful impacts that their garments might have on the world.
INSECTA
SEEKER X RETRIeVER
PANSY
Brazilian label Insecta, make sustainable vegan shoes and accessories from recycled plastic bottles, deadstock fabrics and vintage clothing. Each Insecta item is unique and handcrafted locally in limited numbers.
Seeker x Retriever is a Newcastle based fashion label focusing on sustainable fashion techniques and ethical clothing production. All garments are seasonless and handmade in Northern Thailand by local weavers, natural dyers and self-employed tailors.
Pansy is an organic cotton underwear company based in San Leandro, California. Born from a need for comfy dreamy ethical undies, their organic cotton is grown and milled domestically and their underwear are designed and sewn locally.
www.insectashoes.com
www.seekerxretriever.com
www.pansy.co
ANIELA PARYS
SAMARA
VEGE THREADS
Aniela Parys is a slow fashion label based in Barcelona with a focus on quality over quantity. All garments are designed and handmade using vintage and locally sourced materials in Aniela’s studio space.
Canadian accessories label, SAMARA produce minimalist and ecofriendly purses, bags and wallets made from 100% vegan leather. Every purchase through Samara covers the cost of a Soular Backpack for a child in need in East Africa, so that they have access to light every night.
Vege Threads is a Melbourne label creating organic and ethically made basics for everyday wear. Their low impact pieces are produced in locally, using 100% certified organic cotton that is knitted in Australia, and dyed using Australian Certified Organic dyes.
www.samarabags.com
www.vegethreads.com
www.anielaparys.com
ricepaper the label We chat to MELBOURNE DESIGNER, EVE Walton-Healey about her ETHICAL AND ECO FRIENDLY LABEL, RICEPAPER THE LABEL
“ is being missed. Who makes your garments and where are they made? Our garments are made in Bali Indonesia by a small team of mainly women but there are a few males as well who are pattern makers and cutters. We have a number of standards that are implemented with our off-shore manufacturing including regular visits, making sure staff are paid the correct wages and providing a happy heathy working environment for all and to the same standards we would expect to have in Australia. What types of materials are used and how do you source them? For our Winter Collection – Kaldali mainly wool blends and cottons, but we are currently in sampling stage with our next summer range and can’t wait to release some styles in Linen. Everything is sourced in Indonesia, it was a tricky challenge finding our Winter fabrics off shore as Indonesia typically need winter weight fabrics but we got there in the end! What is the most rewarding thing about running a sustainable and ethical business? Noting makes me happier than knowing I am supporting a local community with a healthy and safe work environment that is providing an income & interest in the manufacturing industry. To be certain the people and process behind your designs are being completed in an ethical way – in our industry that’s hard to come by. What would be your top tips for readers trying to make more responsible wardrobe choices? 1. Consume sensibly - sometimes less is more! 2. Build a wardrobe from versatile pieces you can work into a range of occasions. 3. Do your research know your brand and their manufacturing process. 4. Repair, Re-use and Recycle! How would you like to see the fashion industry change for the better in the future? There needs to be a big change globally - big brands need to become more transparent with their manufacturing processes, consumers need to be asking more hard questions when purchasing and we (the fashion industry) need to start educating consumers on the conditions in which people are working in and the waste problems we are already facing. Are there any particular designers, artists or other creatives that you are loving right now? I love Elizabeth Suzann, her whole concept and designs are really inspiring!
Tell us a little about yourself and how Ricepaper The Label came to be. I’ve been in the industry for five years now which I have been lucky enough to work for a number of different labels in various roles. I have always believed in shape, function and celebrating natural beauty so the idea of Ricepaper really grew from here combined with the brand being based on transparency. How would you describe a typical Ricepaper garment? Simple and versatile something you can wear to work then head out for drinks or dinner in. Our whole design process is really centred around this, we want women to feel powerful in their clothes and feel like they can wear them to any occasion. Where do you find your creative inspiration? Inspiration has come from many places, I have been lucky enough to travel most of Asia and I would say most of the simplicity and functionality of the brand has been inspired by Japan - I am extremely obsessed with the culture & design. Other inspiration just really forms from a range of things including art, life and imagination! What does “sustainable fashion” mean to you? Sustainable fashion is such a board topic- to me it really is the future for the industry something consumers need to be aware of and actively willing to participate in encouraging mindful consumption. I feel very strongly about mass production and the repercussions that this is having on people and the world. It’s really important to know where the product you are buying is coming from and how it is going to be decomposed when you have finished with it. Consuming mindfully is a step to sustainable fashion - investing in garments that you will wear 50-100 times a year rather than twice is a pivotal tool, building a versatile wardrobe from pieces that you love will really help towards not producing waste and knowing where the product is coming from thinking about the people who made it, the process in which it has been created dyes etc. and how it can de compose – if its only costing $20 to buy after all these steps then “sustainable To see more of Eve’s designs head to www.ricepaperthelabel.com
J-ANT. We chat to portuguese designer, Jessica António about TRADITIONAL CRAFTMANSHIP & her LATEST collection, OH SALAD DAYS! Tell us a little about yourself and how J-ANT. came to be. My name is Jessica António, a Portuguese-native fashion designer based in the Netherlands. I moved here 12 years ago and in the meantime graduated as a fashion designer from HKU University of the Arts Utrecht, where I’ve acquainted a passion for textiles and interest for sustainability. As a result of this I decided to set up my own brand and strive for a better fashion industry. How would you describe the J-ANT. aesthetic? J-ANT. is a slow-fashion brand creating comfortable garments of high quality and great aesthetics, with a focus on sustainability. As a brand we offer two clothing lines, a casual wear line consisting of highquality timeless garments and an exclusive wear line focusing on unique pieces that are rich in detail and handiwork. Our exclusive items are one of a kind and locally produced in our studio, in Utrecht. Your latest project OH SALAD DAYS! experiments with transparency and the use of delicate materials such as real flowers and dried petals. What inspired you to use these particular materials? I have this obsession with dried flowers and many of nature’s other elements. Therefore, at some point when I was considering prints for a new collection I decided to use real petals within a see through fabric to enhance a pattern. This natural way of creating a print fits J-ANT.’s aesthetic much better. On the other hand I wanted to translate a feeling onto textile and this seemed like the most appropriate way to emphasize what this project is based upon, a childhood full wilderness and delicacy. What does “sustainable fashion” mean to you and how
do these values also carry through to the brand? Sustainable fashion means striving for improvement in the fashion industry through each step we take as a brand. J-ANT. strives for a craftsmanship revival and so we support slow production and handmade quality. Furthermore, we believe that we can use what we already possess to create something greater, therefore making use of dead-stock textiles and recycling materials has become part of our brand philosophy. How important is it to you that we preserve traditional craftmanship within the fashion industry? It’s extremely important! From a social perspective, it generates jobs, protects cultural identities, supports slow-fashion and so forth. However, another important factor is that handiwork, such as crochet and knitting has been proven to work as a therapy, being a healthy practice for any human being. What would be your top tip for readers trying to make more responsible wardrobe choices? Stop buying from giants like H&M, ZARA, Primark and so forth. Instead buy locally or choose small brands with conscious aesthetics. How would you like to see the fashion industry change for the better in the future? Nowadays, every city you go to is filled with fast-fashion stores like ZARA, H&M, MANGO, PRIMARK and so forth. I wish that these would vanish and instead give all small conscious brands a chance to succeed. I find it rather sad how almost every city in the world is the same when it comes to shopping opportunities. Wouldn’t it be fantastic if everywhere you go you can buy something uniquely special? Do you have any words of wisdom for other aspiring designers like yourself? Be ambitious and fearless. That’s the secret to success! Are there any particular designers, artists or other creatives that you are loving right now? I’m a big fan of Orseund Iris for their non-seasonal collections followed by others like Paloma Wool, GANNI, Sandy Liang and so forth. You can see more of Jessica’s work at www.j-ant.com and @jantdesign
camp cove swim We chat to SYDNEY DESIGNER, KATHERINE HAMPTON about her ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY SWIMWEAR LABEL, camp cove swim.
free other than the tape to close the box. We incorporate recycled fabrics where possible (sometimes colour and quality of the fabric limits where it can be used). Manufacturing locally allows us to have tight control over the units we manufacture for each style, therefore we ensure we only order what we need and know we can sell. How would you like to see the fashion industry change for the better in the future? A more holistic approach to business and design and more accountability. As consumers become more aware of the industries impact on the environment, the industry is aware of the ability to turn this into sales. What are your top tips for readers trying to make more responsible wardrobe choices? When a garment is cheap, all it means is that it is someone else who is paying the price. To elaborate, for a garment to be sold at a low price, there are others on the production line of that garment who have sacrificed their rights to allow you to pay so little. Research is key as well. There are so many online resources and information available to us to make more ethical fashion choices.Where do you find creative inspiration? My friends, nature, Pinterest, the library, the ocean, people watching and vintage shopping. What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given? Not the most philosophical tips, but something I think a lot of people don’t consider when starting a label. When you’ve decided on a name or brand, google the crap out of that word or term to ensure there isn’t anything that’s going to clash when you’re trying to lock down the top listing on Google or that domain name. As soon as you’ve decided on a name register for every domain and social handle known to man. Nothing worse than paying someone to design a logo and website to then find that the domain name and Instagram handle are already taken. Are there any particular designers, artists or other creatives that you are loving right now? My personal favourite label at the moment is Reformation. They have a breakdown of the Co2 emissions and water used for every garment. They use deadstock fabrics and fibres with minimal environmental impact.
Tell us a little about yourself and how Camp Cove Swim came to be. My name is Katherine and I am the owner and designer of Aussie swimwear label ‘Camp Cove Swim’. I currently live in Sydney but grew up and studied fashion design in Newcastle. I started the brand in 2013 as an outlet for my creativity and passion for swimwear, as well as a response to my own personal issues in finding swimwear that I liked. How would you describe your swimwear? Camp Cove Swim is retro-inspired, interpreted for modern fabrics and fits. The cuts are well fitting, simple and wearable styles in a variety of bold prints. What does “ethical fashion” mean to you and how do these values also carry through to the brand? I describe Ethical Fashion as clothing design and production that attempts to minimise any negative impact on the environment and all people that are affected by its production and marketing. For Camp Cove Swim this is interpreted as working with local makers in Australia to ensure high working standards and close communications. We work to reduce our impact on the environment by manufacturing quality goods, using recycled fabrics where possible and minimising waste by using minimal packaging and re-using where we can. We also consider that we have an ethical responsibility to be a good role model for body positivity. We try to showcase a variety of women in our designs through our photography. In your opinion, what are some of the main benefits of producing garments locally? Supporting your local community, greater ability to monitor quality, smaller production capabilities (minimise waste) and greater personal relationships with our creators. What steps do you take to minimize the impact of the label on the environment? Our online store orders and wholesale orders (where possible, sometimes they request plastic packaging) are plastic- To find out more visit www.campcoveswim.com and @campcoveswim
PRETTY, PLEASE BY ALLISON MORRIS
allison morris We chat to CANADIAN FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER, ALLISON MORRIS about her PLAYFUL SELF-PORTRAIT SERIES ‘PRETTY, PLEASE’. Tell us a little about yourself and what you do. My name is Allison Morris and I’m a 24-year-old photographic artist currently living and working in Montreal. How would you describe your work? My work is an ongoing criticism of the ways in which the female body is represented and pressured into certain ideal forms. I often use my own body as the subject of the images I create, and I think it is an important part of my work that I approach it with a sense of humour. I like the idea of simultaneously creating a sense of intrigue and repulsion in people viewing my photographs. Can you tell us a little about your self-portrait series ‘Pretty, Please’ and the inspiration behind it? ‘Pretty, Please’ was my way of exploring and poking fun at the physical objects that have somehow come to define femininity. I wanted to take these objects that are used to decorate and enhance the female body and portray them as a literal physical barrier between the woman and the viewer. Can you give us a little insight into your creative process? A lot of my inspiration comes from objects and materials themselves. I am always on the lookout for textiles, clothing, or props that catch my eye or are entirely impractical. I tend to collect things until they spark an idea or image in my head, but a lot of my work comes out of experimenting. Not having a strict plan and seeing how I end up performing and interacting with the objects I’m drawn to once I’m in front of the camera is a big part of it. What advice would you give to someone interested in getting into fine art photography? I think one of the most important things is to talk about your work as often as you can. It’s easy to be shy or private about personal work, but I’m always surprised how helpful it can be to hear how your work is interpreted from a different perspective. Also
– don’t be afraid to get weird and experiment. Some people might be afraid of your work and it’s important to see the power in that. What do you do when you are not taking photographs? I’ve recently invested in an antique dollhouse that I’m completely refurbishing from the ground up. It’s always been a dream of mine and it’s a really rewarding experience to work with my hands in a completely new way. I’m beyond excited to begin incorporating it into my work. If you could work alongside any one photographer who would it be? And why? I am obviously inspired by a countless number of artists and photographers, but I think working alone is a very important part of my process. It also goes back to why I only use myself as a subject, but I love being in complete control and being able to experiment in how I am performing or working that I otherwise wouldn’t be comfortable doing with someone else around. If I did have to pick one artist though, it would have to be Cindy Sherman! It may seem obvious, but I think deservedly so, and I would give anything to be able to look through her costume wardrobe and witness her process firsthand. Are there any emerging artists, photographers or designers that you are loving right now? Juno Calypso, Prue Stent, Laetitia Ky, Leah Schrager, Mari Katayama to name a few. Are you working on a new series at the moment? I am! It is still very much a work in progress but I am taking a lot of inspiration from the concept of veiling the female body and experimenting with what it means to conceal/reveal parts of the female form. I’ve slowly begun a body of work creating monstrous forms out of multiple bodies. You can view some of my current process work on Instagram. What are your future goals and ambitions as an artist? I really just want to make work that will make people question how they feel and think about the feminine body, to feel empowered or inspired by it, and to realize that femininity is not synonymous with weak. You can see more of Allison’s work at www.allisonmorris.ca and @allymorr
kAITLIN kEEGAN We chat to PERTH musician, Kaitlin keegan about her debut ep & what she hopes to achieve in the future Tell us a little about yourself and what path led you to becoming a musician. I have been writing and singing my own music for as long as I can remember! I had some guitar lessons after Dad bought me my first guitar but I’m mostly self-taught. I was quite shy growing up when it came to performing so I never really sung in front of anyone until I was about 12. I guess in the last few years of high school I truly decided that I wanted to do pursue music - so I went to study music at uni for a couple of years and met a bunch of amazing people and here I am! You released your debut solo EP ‘Sadisco’ earlier this year. For those who haven’t listened to it, how would you describe your sound? I think someone described the EP as ‘shimmery folk pop’ and I really love that. The songs from Sadisco are just a combination of new and old songs, some quite personal, some about travelling, some I wrote for uni assessments haha. Who or what would you say are your biggest influences? I was always drawn to artists with incredible and unique voices, like Amy Winehouse. There was always a lot of Motown being played in my house growing up so I think that really shaped the way I sing. My Dad and his family are from Liverpool so lots of the Beatles too haha. I’m always influenced by artists that have a true ability to convey emotion and captivate you completely with their performance alone. Most recently I’ve been loving Soccer Mommy, Lucy Dacus, Angie McMahon, Gretta Ray. The list goes on. Which part of the music making process do you enjoy the most? Pen to paper! Always recording with voice memos on my iPhone haha. I love the early stages
of music making - when you’ve got a skeleton of a melody and little to no words or structure - the possibilities are endless! How long does it usually take you to write a song? Sometimes 1 hour, sometimes 4 months... there’s no in-between. But I try to write something every day so I’ve always got material to work with. What do you do when you’re not making music? I volunteer at Vinnies, walk my dog, swoon over cute puppies at the dog park! I live in a beautiful suburb with heaps of cafes and shops so there’s always something to do. Next month you are playing at BIGSOUND – a festival that has been instrumental in uncovering the likes of Flume, Courtney Barnett, Gang of Youths and more – you must be pretty thrilled to be a part of such an exciting event? I am so so excited and I feel so privileged to have been selected to play. I can’t wait to see so much of the incredible talent. I love Brisbane! Are you working on any new material at the moment? I’ve got a single in the works! What has been your most exciting career achievement so far? I think that it will probably be playing at BIGSOUND! Ha! I’ve also done a lot of touring this year with a band I play in called BOAT SHOW. We toured nationally with Hockey Dad and then with DZ Deathrays which was so fun and I learnt heaps. Do you have any advice for other emerging musicians like yourself, that are trying to break into the industry? I guess just don’t sit on your music for too long! Put your songs out there and put yourself out there! Try and go to heaps of gigs and meet as many people as you can! Make friends with people who inspire you and are doing what you want to be doing! What are your plans or hopes for the future with regard to your music? I want to put out more music, and do heaps of touring and festivals! I’d looove to get over to the UK and do some shows. I’d also just love to collaborate and write with lots of different people! To find out more visit kaitlinkeeganmusic.com and @kaitykeegs
Photos by Avalon Hona Haloho
GREEN HOUSE Photographer - kalindy williams Model - Bebe Dragovitch @ duval agency Makeup ARTIST - Anna Marcus EARRINGS - LITTLE DEAR CLOTHING - SUGARCANE THE LABEL