Popinjay Magazine Issue 1 by Popinjay Magazine

Popinjay M A G A Z I N E

3 3 0 H U D S O N S T R E E T, N E W YO R K

Table of Contents - Masthead 5

- Editor’s Note 7

- #Unﬁltered 9

- The Long Con 14

- Homonymity 21

- WTF 28

- Notes, Quotes, & Ancedotes 35

- Foreign Exchange 61

- Boy Wander 73

- Place Beyond the Pines 83

- Requisites 96

- By No...With Nick Wooster 102

- Nick Sullivan’s Crossword 103

- NYFW:M Spring 2017 Designer Emoji Inspiration 104

Agentry PR NYC 27 West 20th Street, Suite 504 New York, NY 10011 212.924.2276 Agentry PR LA 8455 Beverly Boulevard, Suite 402 Los Angeles, CA 90048 323.503.4112 x 108 agentrypr.com submissions@agentrypr.com @agentrypr @popinjaymag @newyorkmensday

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Popinjay M A G A Z I N E

Editor in Chief Erin Hawker

@therealerinhawker

Deputy Editor Patrick Jones @patrickdjones

Creative Director Fabio Salles

@thepablofabio

Art Director

@_manonthemoon

@camodandesign

Brandon Bostic

Danilo Matz

Senior Fashion Editor Jonathon Zadrzynski @hellolallalalal

Lifestyle & Grooming Editor Joe Yang @mojoex3

Features Editor Features Editor Beth Bassil @beth_m_b

Alexis Wulf @alexiswulf

Associate Fashion Editor Bailey Hospodor @baileyhospodor

Associate Editor Mindy Fetzer @mindyfetzer

Chief Consultant Guia Golden @borngolden

Contributors Gavin Christopher, Paul-Simon Djite, Anthony Friend, Suzana Hallili, Jake Jones, Nyra Lang, Ryan Monaghan, Emmanuel Sanchez-Monsalve, Cathleen Peters, Chad Thompson Special Thanks Lana Bogdanov, Kendall Donohoue, Emmy Hanlon, Cayley Harell, Alexandria Hilliard, Kiana Jennings, Morgan Kilmer, Drew Linehan, Terry Lu, Sydney Miller, Danie Minor, Brittney Prather, Tess Ryan, Allison Skolar, Christina Suglio, Nick Vogelson, Shen Williams

Popinjay is published by Agentry PR LLC and NYMD LLC

A note from the Editor Welcome to Popinjay magazine. So, what is this you’re asking? Popinjay is our fun take on the fashion industry. A menswear-focused publication that will be printed twice a year surrounding New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Popinjay magazine is a lighthearted-industry initiative that is curated by stylists, writers, editors, buyers, PR associates, designers, and other menswear influencers based in New York, Los Angeles, and around the world. Popinjay magazine offers an exclusive take on designer interviews, New York City social life, and a refreshing outlook on fashion-focused stories. Since Popinjay is curated by members of the industry that it embodies, Popinjay allows every reader to have an authentic experience that defines the current state of menswear. No, really. What is Popinjay? According to Shakespeare, it means: popinjay (n): prattler, chatter. British Dialect. a woodpecker, especially the green We say, “PERFECT!”

#UN– FILter– eD WIth NYFW: MeN’s upon us once again, Popinjay wanted to find out what the menswear community REALLY thinks about fashion shows; how they actually survive the week’s long show schedule; and, who would fare best if they were trapped on a deserted island, (because, why not, right)?

D: Long Nguyen B: christina Neault

A: Wendell Brown

The one thing we’ll never tell is who actually said what, that’s for you to figure out.

c: Memsor Kamarake

YOU’RE TRAPPED ON A DESERT ISLAND WITH A FASHIONISTA THAT IS A FRONT ROW STAPLE, WHO IS IT AND WHY?

IT’S FASHION WEEK. HOW MANY SNACKS ARE IN YOUR BAG RIGHT NOW AND WHAT KIND?

That’s easy: Robert Verdi. We’ve been friends for 20 years and I’m pretty sure he could keep things lively —which is a nice way of saying ‘insane’—until “search and rescue” arrived.

Do Camel Lights count as snacks?

DO YOU ACTUALLY ENJOY FASHION WEEK?

Of course I do! It’s exhausting, but it is like going to camp; you get to see people you have not seen in six months and there is always a great sense of accomplishment when it’s over.

F: James Aguiar

E: Brian Boye

WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO CHILL MOMENT WHEN YOU NEED A NIGHT OFF?

couch. Blinds drawn. A good book. Phone on silent. Pork fried rice (spicey). Ketel and tonic (several).

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE HIDDEN PLACE WHERE YOU CAN GET DRUNK AND NOT WORRY ABOUT RUNNING INTO ANYONE ON THE FASHION SCENE?

My favorite hidden spot to get drunk is the Trump Bar at Trump Tower. I promise you will NEVER run into someone you know.

G: chris constable

WHAT’S THE ONE PLACE YOU CAN’T STAND GOING TO FOR A SHOW/ PRESENTATION?

WHAT’S YOUR SECRET FOR STAYING COOL FOR THE MEN’S SHOWS IN JULY?

Pier 59.

I have these amazing undershirts that absorb and don’t show any sweat.

I: Michael carl

J: Sandra Nygaard

IF BRANDS DIDNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T ADVERTISE, HOW MANY SHOWS WOULD YOU REALLY GO TO?

H: Mikelle Street

Probably about five honestly, and I mean five overall from London, Milan, Paris and New York.

WHAT STREET STYLE LOOK WOULD YOU NOT BE CAUGHT DEAD WEARING?

Neon colors.

WHAT IS THE ONE ITEM (BESIDES YOUR PHONE) THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED FOR THE SHOWS?

A pretty girl. Always attend shows with some sexy street style fodder on your arm, it simultaneously detracts and drives attention to your look for the assorted photogs. Also, they can carry things in their purse for you, (gum, phone chargers, tickets). #winning

K: J. Errico

M: Sharifa Murdock

L: Grant Woolhead

YOU’VE GONE OUT ALL NIGHT AND NOW YOU HAVE TO BE AT A 9 A.M. RUNWAY SHOW. WHAT DO YOU DO?

If you go out all night when you have a 9 a.m. show. You are an idiot (I’ve been an idiot).

N: Eric Jennings

WHAT’S THE NUMBER ONE FAUX PAS PUBLICISTS MAKE DURING FASHION WEEK?

HOW DO YOU SURVIVE SITTING NEXT TO SOMEONE YOU CAN’T STAND AT A FASHION SHOW?

Assuming I’m in the wrong seat before ever asking. I understand one person doesn’t look like everyone else in this front row but I actually have my ticket.

Easy. Ignore the everliving f*ck out of them, and accent it with my natural Resting B*tch Face (RBF). Or, if I’m really twisted, I’ll compliment them on things like their hair or their fragrance. They may actually leave the show thinking that I have secretly liked them for years and have been waiting for this opportunity to express my adoration. But really, nothing has changed. I’m still coldass RBF on the inside.

WHAT CELEBRITY ARE YOU TIRED OF SEEING AT THE SHOWS?

Kanye West.

The Long Con We like to have fun here at Popinjay so when we approached menswear designer David hart to create a spoof on the “must have” spring 2017 item, we were thrilled when he said yes. Hart met with five industry influencers to present his latest creation. Here’s what we got. Photography: Ryan Monaghan

terrY LU DaviD harT: I’m really excited about doing huge, big, over-sized suits for guys.

TL: So how many different colors does this come in?

TL: It reminds of the 80’s, or 70’s… “Working Girl”

Terry Lu: I love the play on propor-

Dh: This comes in seven colors.

Dh: It’s just a really soft shoulder.

TL: So that’s going to be a full collec-

TL: I happen to be wearing these high waisted trousers too.

TL: So will there be one cut?

TL I just love how you’re always bringing different new elements or old elements to your menswear.

tions that’s so cool. So this is just the blazer. Do you have it as separates or do you have the full suit? Dh: Yes, I’m thinking we’re going to do really big pants too. TL: I love this fabric. TL: The quality is all there too. Dh: I think what makes this so great is the color of the lapels.

tion?

Dh: We’ll probably do a few double

breasted and shawl collar as well.

TL: And three buttons? I love that, that’s completely retro. Dh: Yeah, you should try it on. TL But very modern at the same time.

Dh: Thank you. TL: It’s just really refreshing as opposed to being really mundane and just boring. Terry Lu: (Puts on jacket)

Seth hoWarD DaviD harT: I create clothing for guys who understand how clothing fits. This is kind of a statement about that because I feel like our first experience with suiting is when we’re little and try on our dad’s suit so I just wanted to capture that with this kind of like...big oversized jacket. And then just big oversized pants, too. SeTh hoWarD: It’s cool, I like that. I mean I actually really like that. It looks good with fitted pants too. Dh: Style it up. Belt it? It could be super 80’s, right? Sh: Have you shown this already? Or are you going to show it next season? Or is this just for fun? Sh: Well, I mean, if you think about what’s happening with overcoats, it’s kind of like the next thing. Dh: Or, those huge sherlings? Sh: Yeah. I mean…I’d wear it. Why not? It’s fun. I love volume. Dh: It’s super conceptual. Sh: Sure.

SaM Spector Sam SpeCTor: You really made one? Did you really make it?

too.

Dh: Just roll it up.Looks cool like this

Dh: Red carpet. Leslie Odom Jr.

DaviD harT : I got like super Freudian

SS: Oh! Now we’re getting real 80’s.

SS: No, I see it more in a period piece, um specifically the 80’s.

with this. The idea is a guy’s association with a large suit like when you’re little trying on your dad’s suit. That’s why guys now don’t understand how suits should properly fit so this is like a statement.

SS: And what lining did you do? You

Dh: Who would write it and produce it? MC Hammer?

just did…

SS: Or Milli Vanilli.

Dh: Yeah, it’s a fully lined. Laughter

Dh: Yeah.

SS: Really? Interesting, David.

SS: No pants?

Dh: This would be perfect

Dh: No pants.

SS: Or the people that wrote Milli Vanilli.

Dh: Yeah.

for Dan for red carpet.

Dh: It’s comfortable.

SS: Yeah, I’ll see what I can do…not sure if

SS: It’s comfortable. It has a lot of room for movement. Esther! Is she here? I need my Esther. Esther!

the color is right for him. He looks good in a shade lighter in a blue so yeah it’s really about the color for him. What are the other details that you did on it? Dh: Love the big size. SS: You really love this big size. Dh: It’s got proportions. SS: What do you do on

the bottom if you wear this suit? Dh: We’re going to do huge pants too. SS: Huge pants. Okay, so is there a

specific decade that you were channeling? Maybe the 80’s? Dh: Yeah maybe the 80’s, like early 80’s. SS: MC Hammer…hammer pants! Dh : Hammer pants! SS: And...wow. Ok, can I see it on you? I’m just curious, you know. (David Hart puts on jacket) Dh: I love the sleeve length. You know everyone’s always worried about showing off cuff, not enough cuff.

Dh: Yeah. I like the three button. SS: Esther. eSTher pak: Yes. SS: We’re doing a deskside with this oversized jacket. eSTher pak: Oh. SS: So I have to comment on it. eSTher pak: What do you want to comment on? SS: I said that it will save us a lot of time cause I’m usually very particular about fit and with every little detail. It may make my clients really happy because it’ll cut the day rate in half. Dh: Which client do you think will be into this?

SS: So you just don’t have to worry about it. Dh: No hands!

eSTher pak: Yeah.

SS: No hands!?!

SS: Yeah, I could see, I could see definitely someone that’s looking to spoof fashion. Umm…

SS: No hands either? Yeah cause I’m pretty meticulous about showing a half an inch of cuff so how would I do that with this?

SS: The Milli Vanilli Musical!

SS: So are you embracing a three button?

SS: Umm…yeah, you know I can see that on, Andy Samberg in a “Lonely Island” video for a like D*** in a Box. Like D*** in the Box Two? Wasn’t that very 80’s looking?

Dh: Yeah.

Dh: I’m sure that the musical is coming.

eSTher pak: Leslie might. SS: For what? In his next nomination for a Tony Award for his role as MC Hammer?

peter DavIS DaviD harT: So, I’m really into this idea of little kids trying on their dad’s suits. Imagine this really huge oversize suit on a normal guy, that’s kind of my new direction. The whole concept is a little Freudian. Your dad’s suit is probably the first suit you try on as a kid so I’m going back to that moment with my new collection. peTer DaviS: Kind of David Byrne of “Talking Heads?” Dh:: Yeah totally. pD: Except he had shoulder pads. Dh: Yeah, we could put shoulder pads in here. pD: That’s fun. I used to try on my stepfather’s suits all the time. Dh: Were they big and oversized? pD: They were big. Yeah he’s a big guy like 6’3”. That’s cool what made you go big? Dh: I don’t know. Just where my head has been I guess. Right? pD: Think big. Dh: Yeah, I’m trying to do something more conceptual and exciting. pD: How are you sizing them? Dh: This will probably be a small

and I just go up from here. pD: I want to see a large.

Dh: It’s massive. I could probably wear the large. pD: Did you try your dad’s clothes on? Dh: I did. Yeah when I was little. pD: Fun. So are you going to go

through the whole collection? Dh: The whole collection!

pD: Wow. That’s a big statement

to make too.

Dh: Yeah what do you think? Do you think people will love it? pD: No, I’m into it. I like it. I actually don’t like too small clothing and I feel like everything is getting too small. Sizing is weird. It’s like a medium is too small, it’s confusing. Everything’s shrunk. I also think this is more comfortable. Tight clothes are never comfortable. Dh: So do you think guys will get into this? pD: Definitely. Definitely. And it’s good to make a statement. That’s what fashion is about. Dh: Totally. Dh: Do you want to try it on? pD: Yeah, I want to try it on. This would be good for South Hampton. (Peter Davis puts on the jacket) Dh: Yeah totally it’s cool. Totally cool. Dh: The pants are oversized too. pD: The pants are going to have a big break and then be really big. So cool. So this is the first time you’ve really changed proportions. Dh: Yeah. It’ll just be a really conceptual collection. pD: That’s good. Editors love conceptual collections. So all the pants will be large, the waist will be kind of large as well? pD: It’s cool. Is there anything that you saw that made you want to go big? Dh: No actually, just me in my head. pD: Like a dream? You woke up. Bigger is better? Dh: Yeah bigger is better. pD: Fun. Dh: Perfect.

Garrett MUNce DaviD harT: So, yeah moving forward I wanted to get super Freudian. Thinking back to the first experience when you’re a little kid and you’re putting on your dad’s suit. It’s super oversized and it doesn’t fit and I think that informs how we make our decision with suiting. I’m really into this huge, oversized suiting...really forward. There’s going to be huge pants too. I just want to make your job better because I know you guys are always worried about fit and showing the right amount of cuff and everything being perfect, so with this, you don’t even have to worry about it. garreTT munCe: Well, you know, we do shoot a lot of athletes, so I’m always looking for a larger silhouette. It’s definitely a look and I think that proportionwise, it’s a little interesting because the sleeves are so short. I don’t know if our point of view would necessarily say that a larger jacket would be something that we would endorse. But I like the fabric. The color’s beautiful. I mean it’s everything that you do well. I think the fit could maybe be looked at a little bit more.

gm: Did you just bring in a super big jacket? Dh: Yeah

(David Hart tries on jacket) gm: That’s so funny! I mean it’s actually pretty funny on you. Let’s just style it up a little bit. It’s very Miami Vice, you know? I mean I definitely understand a longer silhouette, I just don’t know about boxy. Yeah, the shoulders could be worked on. I mean if you’re really gonna go for it, I would put shoulder pads. If you’re really gonna go for a conceptual idea, I would do a shoulder pad, or like a really structured shoulder, ya know? Dh: Which celebs would be good in this thing? Ryan Gosling or Ryan Reynolds? Which GQ guys? gm: Hmmm I feel like an Andrew Garfield. If you really wanna accentuate the silhouette, you should probably use someone very slim. Dh: Or Lucky? gm: Lucky would look great in it. I think that part of it is the impulse to put it on a large athlete, but then it would just look like a total normal jacket, ya know?

Dh: Hahah gm: What?

homon

ymiTy StYLISt, proDUcer, DeSIGNer. Words that describe professions in various industries but what do the people that hold these coveted positions actually do? Same title? Same job? Not really. Popinjay looped in six insiders to give us the â&#x20AC;&#x153;411â&#x20AC;? on similarities and differences.

Photography: Anthony Friend

C o n versati o n s With …

Owen Davidson Co-Founder and Principal AO Production, New York

How long have you been in the business? I’ve been in this business since I was old enough to know better. More than 20 years. Time flies... What is it you actually do? I say that I’m a producer of events, but of course it’s much more than that. I work with designers and artists to help make their vision a reality. It’s a collaborative process. What made you fall in love with what you do? I was on my way to London from New Zealand, with a stopover in New York. I never left. I think New York led me to this world. It’s hard for me to think of my work as being disconnected from this great city. What is the craziest or most absurd thing you’ve had to do on the job? What is the craziest? I suppose I could mention the peacock and peacock-handler driving an entire day to New York City for a seated dinner. Or, my week tracking down the perfect weather-beaten English dinghy for Jo Malone London. Or, getting Gwyneth Paltrow’s daughter to play badminton at her garden party, but I won’t mention any of that. How about the most fun part of your job?

I like the feeling of somehow making something so improbable come to life, despite all of the challenges. It’s always like this for the Stella McCartney events in New York. The moment when everything is in place, just before the event begins, is a very particular high. What is the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with? Well, we all hate to mention September 11th, yet it happened during New York Fashion Week. I think it does help for all of us to step back sometimes and remember that the world doesn’t end, and the show goes on. Do you have a fun diva story you can tell? My business is founded on the idea that diva stories happen on reality TV, but you don’t have to experience them in real life. When we seat people for the big Carolina Herrera shows, everyone has a little diva moment about where they’re seated. At The Frick, with very few seats, this is even more exaggerated. I like to think that AO Production keeps these stories to a minimum. What is the most common misconception that people have about your job? Everyone thinks that runway shows are a

form of reality, but it’s theater. Sets, design, lighting and a score. The best theater feels like reality, so I’m glad to live with this misconception. What is the most common misconception that people have about your job? Everyone thinks that runway shows are a form of reality, but it’s theater. Sets, design, lighting and a score. The best theater feels like reality, so I’m glad to live with this misconception. What’s one thing you know now that you wish you would have known when you first got into the business? I wish I had known that being a therapist was such a big part of the job. Then again, I’m glad I didn’t know that. Next question and your time is up. If money were no object, what would be your dream job to produce? I did a vertical runway show down the side of Rockefeller Center for Target years ago, and it got me thinking about gravity. An event in outer space would be an interesting challenge. How do we serve champagne so far from Earth?

a designer

Ford Wheeler Production Designer

How long have you been in the business? About 25 years Describe your day-to-day? I am in charge of the visual element of a film or TV show. I oversee set decoration, props, scenic, construction, locations, greens and collaborate with wardrobe if it falls into a design choice such as a unified color or coordinating with the set dressing. For me, it’s also my job to keep everyone’s spirits up and for us all to feel that we are in it together. There are always last second changes and an impossible amount of pressure that I try to deflect from the crew. What project are you most proud of? As a set decorator several fulfilling jobs were “Kids,” “Stranger than Fiction,” and “Any Given Sunday.” As a production designer, maybe “Rachel Getting Married,” “We Own The Night,” Let the Right One In,” and more. What was the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with onsite. It is generally all a big disaster in one way or another. Once I provided a bed upon which Vanessa Redgrave and, I think, Max-

imilian Schell were having a sex scene and right in the middle the mattress fell through to the floor. The only time I feel the burn is when I have forgotten something and it is truly my fault. Usually the crew rallies and we correct the mistake before anyone knows. I was once on a job in Mexico and had to make all my arrangements in high school Spanish. We needed among many requests, a bunch of goats to be herded along a bluff by the sea. I went to a goat farm where I was forced to enjoy a lunch of iguana in some sort of sauce/soup. Whole legs with the toes and claws were floating around in there. Luckily there was also a ravenous bunch of piglets under the table so I dropped the most recognizable body parts down there and the piglets got rid the evidence. Then we selected the goats and made arrangements for them to arrive on the beach at 4:00AM. As they were stepping down from their truck I noticed that the ones I had selected, with horns, were not among the group. I complained and was told that these goats were much better as they would go wherever corn kernels

were thrown and the ones with horns didn’t obey orders. Due to the usual delays, hot sun, and lack of water, even these reportedly docile goats were a nightmare to keep organized. After hours of sweltering on the beach they finally made their appearance on camera. Immediately the DP yelled cut and went to confer with the director. He yelled across the set, “are those goats?” But everyone got such a huge laugh when it was finally revealed that these goats were actually shaved sheep. I provided a happy moment of mirth for the crew and five minutes later the DP fell over with a heart snafu so I escaped unharmed. What is the craziest or most absurd thing you’ve had to do on the job? It’s all absurd. Once I had to provide a field of Phragmites for the characters (Mark Wahlberg and Joaquin Phoenix) to run through. This required thousands of individual stocks imbedded in Styrofoam and buried in the ground. Joaquin was supposed to light it on fire to drive Mark out. The night before the shoot there was a brush fire and the whole thing burned down before we ever got there.

CO NVERSATIO N S

WITH…

Michael Fisher Wardrobe Stylist

How long have you been in the business? 15 years Tell us about your day-to-day? One aspect of my work is my celebrity clients. I curate a wardrobe and create temporary closets for them to wear while they promote and do press for their current film work. I also work with fashion brands and designers consulting and styling lookbooks, presentations, and fashion shows. What made you fall in love with what you do? I studied photography in school and worked for Annie Leibovitz for 13 years. When it came time for a change it was suggested I try styling. I have always loved putting a look together, and with my work experience, I knew a lot about the field and how much it plays a role in making pictures and an image. Plus innately I’m a caretaker of people. I feel good when my clients feel good. What is the craziest or most absurd thing you’ve had to do on the job? The craziest job I had was working with

the band, One Republic. They were performing in the Disney Parks Christmas Day Parade that was filmed in September in Orlando, FL, and then grabbing an overnight to Anaheim, CA, to shoot the “Dick Clark’s New Year’s Rockin’ Eve” show the very next day. What’s the most difficult part of your job? Finding the next great suit. It’s a never-ending cycle of reinvention. Plus, I always aim for the pieces I actually fit on my clients to look like it’s from their own closets, that it’s not just theirs for the moment. I want them to look like the best version of themselves. How about the most fun part of your job? I get to work with very talented people – actors, designers, and photographers. It’s very inspiring to collaborate with such creative types everyday. What was the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with? Lost luggage. I stress every time I fly with wardrobe.

Do you have a fun diva story you can tell? I wish but all my clients are gentlemen. What is the most common misconception that people have about your job? That it’s glamorous. That it’s all movie premieres and fashion parties. No one really knows the amount of hard work and manual labor that goes into my job. How much work it takes collecting, transporting, and caring for everything that is loaned and then afterwards, taking it all apart, re-organizing it, and making sure everything gets returned back to the correct places. What’s one thing you know now that you wish you would have known when you first got into the business? To not sweat the small stuff and to always think of the big picture. Last question, what’s your advice for someone trying to break into your industry? To be ready to work hard, and intern as much as possible.

a stylist

Paolo Nieddu Costume Designer/ Stylist

How long have you been in the business? Going back to the beginning. About 13 years. What’s your day-to-day like? Currently I am costume designing the television show “Empire,” which takes up most of my year. What made you fall in love with what you do? I fell in love with my job when I knew that I could make a living being creative and not confined to one place. What is the craziest or most absurd thing you’ve had to do on the job? The craziest thing I’ve had to do on a job was probably when I had to re-dress Naomi Campbell in like four minutes in a room with only the light from an iPhone. What’s the most difficult part of your job? There are so many moving parts in this type of work; different types of people, constant last minute changes, time constraints, and budget constraints

and that is probably the most difficult balance. How about the most fun part of your job? The most fun part is getting to meet and work with so many different people who all do so many different jobs. I like going to random locations and getting to have lunch with Betty at Bergdorf Goodman when I’m pulling clothing from there. What was the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with? The biggest disaster would have to be when I had a pa stash returns that she missed the return deadline by under a TABLE!! Then to actually tell me she forgot ! It was a mess. Do you have a fun diva story you can tell? I was assisting Annabel Tollman on an Interview magazine cover with Mariah Carey which Bruce Weber was shooting. When Mariah arrived, she changed into a pink silk Agent Provocateur robe and pink marabou feather mules that were actually intended for the shoot. She actually

got her hair and makeup done in those pieces so we couldn’t use them for the shoot. She then sent an assistant to get her signature Van Cleef butterfly ring that she left at home. I was LIVING! What is the most common misconception that people have about your job? I think the biggest misconception is that you simply pick out clothing you like and everyone just puts it on. They don’t realize how much work goes into getting each and every piece to a fitting, making those pieces work, and then returning them. Another question or misconception. I get is people always ask me about “Empire.” “So do you dress everyone?!” Yes, I dress everyone. Last question, what’s your advice for someone trying to break into your industry? I would tell someone starting out to “say yes” to as many things as you can in the beginning. Be humble; hard working; listen and observe; and, be on time!

C o n versati o n s With …

Luigi Tadini Co-Founder & Creative Director The Gathery

How long have you been in the business? My creative partner, Nicky Balestrieri, and I have only had The Gathery for a little over a year but I discovered marketing during my tenure at Paper magazine about seven years or so ago. At the time, Paper—like all magazines—was going through a transformation as an organization trying to figure out how to sustain the business in a profitable way. They truly were on the forefront of creating a creative services company within a magazine to cater to their advertisers mostly through ad value experiential marketing. Back then, Nicky was one of the leading creatives at Extra Extra, and when luxury brands started to return to the magazine, I organically started consulting on projects particular for clients I brought in. Our first collaboration was the opening of the Lanvin flagship store on Madison Avenue—still one of my favorite events we’ve ever done. First thing’s first, what is it you actually do? We run a highly collaborative agency— perhaps something we carried over from

working in publishing. I run the development of strategy and the overarching creative direction while Nicky develops design and oversees production. We like to think outside the box and develop programs and experiences that are multi-layered allowing guests to discover a brand through authentic engagement. What made you fall in love with what you do? I’ve always loved storytelling. My love for theatre led me to a bachelor’s degree in film. My love for photography led me to fashion. And the common thread is the creation of a story no matter how simple or complex they may be. Creating marketing platforms, positioning or content for brands allows me to exercise this creativity on a daily basis. How about the most fun part of your job? Working with clients and a team who inspire us and share our values. The name of the company stems from our desire to travel the world and collect things we love to share with others. A lot of what we do might be considered by some a

pastiche of references we’ve collected along the years to create something new. Naturally, our team of “gatherers” are valued not only for their skills, but also for the creativity they bring to the table. I enjoy this exchange and think it is a driving force behind our success. What was the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with onsite. At a previous agency, we were putting up a free concert at South Street Seaport to kick-off summer. In the morning of the concert, the headlining artist announced his surprise performance on a radio talk show, which resulted into a near riot at the event. We had to shut it down to avoid any real disasters. We decided to never work with that artist again and learned that people actually listen to radio. I know, shocking! Do you have a fun diva story you can tell? Funny enough, the bigger the celebrity the easier the job. It’s typically young talent who are on the cusp that prove to be difficult.

a produCer

Chris Marsh Partner/Co-Founder Atlantic Pictures

How long have you been in the business? 18 years. My partner Darren Goldberg and I started Atlantic Pictures in 2007. Prior to that I spent almost a decade working freelance in the industry in New York City, in a variety of production capacities. First thing’s first, what is it you actually do? Honestly, it depends on the day. We’re not a large company, but we keep a lot of balls in the air—we produce our own films, provide production services and operate as ‘producers-for-hire’ for foreign productions that need to work in NYC or elsewhere in the U.S. We also represent directors for commercial work, and have a robust high-end corporate video business. We divide and conquer. So either Darren or I will take ‘point’ on a project, and when something goes into production whomever is the ‘point,’ he will be on set every day to manage the production and make sure the director is getting the support that he or she needs. If it’s a commercial or branded entertainment project, we make sure we’re on budget

and making smart decisions on set. Both Darren and I have a strong background in physical production – we’re adept at budgeting and scheduling and know the nuts and bolts of filmmaking. Often our job boils down to ‘being the adult in the room’ —balancing the creative work that’s being done with the realities of the budget and schedule that we’re working with. What is the craziest or most absurd thing you’ve had to do on the job? We made a film back in 2013 and I put my daughter in a scene. She was five at the time and she loved it. She played Stephen Dorff’s daughter. It was a quick scene—a minute or so. She told everyone at school and decided that her new goal in life was to be an actress. Later, during post-production, for a bunch of reasons that had nothing to do with my daughter, we made the decision to cut the scene out of the movie. So, I had to explain to my five-year-old daughter that I cut her out of her first movie. The story has a happy ending though—we ended up

re-cutting the film months later and the scene ended up back in the final film. What was the biggest disaster that you’ve had to deal with? We totaled a brand new Hummer on the set of a feature we shot several years ago—ran over it with a monster truck when a stunt went bad. That took some explaining. Do you have a fun diva story you can tell? Actually my biggest ‘diva’ story is not a famous actor but a background actor. I had an extra “head back” to hold after this actor wasn’t placed in the scene and he flipped out. He screamed, knocked over a table and then locked himself in the bathroom for several minutes. Finally he came out of the bathroom and walked straight out of the building—we never saw him again. We found out a few minutes later, when the whole holding space started to flood, that he had flushed an entire roll of paper towels down the toilet—the damage was extensive, there were insurance claims, the whole nine yards…

Wtf See how editors and influencers from the fashion scene do New York nightlife. We sent some of your favorite industry insiders to Vandal, Flash Factory, The Blind Barber, Stanton Social and Rumpus Room to get the low down. Armed with a group text, their best friends, and several rounds of cocktails they scope out some of New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest and most beloved hot spots. #crewlove #squadgoals #aboutlastnight

PHOTO COURTESY OF FLASH FACTORY

Kelly

FLASH FACTORY DONTÉ MCGUINE - STYLIST

Ambience in general? The ambiance at Flash Factory was very much “rave in the city,” and not “Sex and the City.” What’s the scene like? The scene was interesting! You had your drag queens, Brooklyn kids, city kids, foreigners, bridge and tunnel crowd, and preppies. It was a great disaster of a motley mix. cool or not? I think the spot is pretty cool.

Kelly

Dance spot or lounge? It’s definitely a dance spot. I couldn’t stop dancing the music was so good. I don’t know who the DJ was but he was cute! Shout out to him :). Hottest person in the place? The hottest person in the place was me, duh! How are people dressed? People were dressed unwell. I saw Haviana flip flops and tank tops. Some girls had on sun dresses and espadrilles my eyes were bleeding. But the drag girls held it down. They were in all sorts of cool costumes, dominatrix outfits, and some just underwear! Anyone you want to take home tonight? I kinda wanted to take this thirsty straight looking guy home. I told him to “look but don’t touch.” He didn’t get the memo! But he left before I could even try. Anyone you would love to punch in the face? No one I really wanted to punch! Everyone was fun and there to have a great time. I loved every minute of it!

PHOTO COURTESY OF CLINT SPAULDING

RUMPUS ROOM

DEREK NGUYEN OF YAHOO! STYLE + DEREK DU JOUR

Ambience in general? It was quiet the night I went, but I could tell that once the place was filled with people it’d be a lot of fun. They played some pretty good music! It had a very Indochine vibe with the leaf-printed walls. What’s the scene like? All types of people, nonjudgmental and just fun! cool or not? Seems cool. Dance spot or lounge? More of a dance spot. Hottest person in the place? Always me! Just kidding, def the waiter. I have a soft spot for the Latinos. How are people dressed? However they want! Individualism seems to be appreciated there. Anyone you want to take home tonight? My drink. Anyone you would love to punch in the face? My drink because it got me drunk way too quickly.

VANDAL

HIGHSNOBIETY TEAM Ambience in general? I like the ambience because there’s a lot of really fun, youthfulfeeling artwork and multiple levels of lighting. It was packed to the brim and they were really dedicated to the 90’s R&B jams which I loved. What’s the scene like? Super crowded, super loud, more than a little drunk. Plenty of amazing outfits too! cool or not? If you like the streetartturnedcontemporaryartvibe, and the street food references then definitely, yes. Dance spot or lounge? It’s definitely more of a lounge situation. Hottest person in the place? That’s a tough one. There was a really pretty girl who had the kind of gender neutral super androgynous look I’m obsessed with. How are people dressed? In a fashion conscious manner that would still allow them to go clubbing afterward. You know, ultra short skirts and dresses with layers and manageable heels type thing. Anyone you want to take home tonight? I have a girlfriend and am aspiring to live to a ripe old age, so no, lol. Anyone you would love to punch in the face? Possibly the two girls who took forever at the photo booth even though they saw us standing there twiddling our thumbs waiting like, ‘any day now?’

31 OF VANDAL PHOTO COURTESY

BLIND BARBER RACHEL & NICOLE EFFENDY OF RACHEL ET NICOLE

Ambience in general? Old school, retro and dark. What’s the scene like? It’s a goodsized crowd, with younger people who are looking to dance. cool or not? #COOLERTHANYOU most definitely, :) ! Dance spot or lounge? Definitely a dance spot get ready to get low. Hottest person in the place? Rachel & Nicole - just kidding. How are people dressed? A mix of street urban chic and highstreet fashion: Break out your HBA’s and Y3’s. Anyone you want to take home tonight? Not in particular but then again, we weren’t looking. Anyone you would love to punch in the face? The people who kept trying to pretend they were part of our crew! insert Mean Girls MEME: “You can’t sit with us!”

32 OF BLIND BARBER PHOTO COURTESY

THE STANTON SOCIAL

ADAM MANSUROGLU - FASHION EDITOR

Ambience in general? It has a simple, stylish and modern interior with pretty light fixtures. Not the biggest fan of the art work though. Great background music of 90’s favorites. What’s the scene like? “Earlybird” diners with a sprinkling of cute guys. Not the crowd that’s worth people watching for. cool or not? Not the best for happy hour, probably best for a later dinner. Hoping the crowd changes later in the night. Dance spot or lounge? More of a restaurant than a lounge. The upstairs has a cute lounge, but it’s completely empty at happy hour. Hottest person in the place? My friends. How are people dressed? Basic. Some scary. Some cute. Nothing noteworthy. Anyone you want to take home tonight? Too early to see where the night will end. More of a first stop than then the last stop on any night. Anyone you would love to punch in the face? No, but we were desperate to escape.

NOTES, QUOTES & ANEcDOTES Popinjay a s ks write rs to de lve into th e S p ring 2017 cla s s of N ew York M e n’s Day (NYMD) de signe rs to fin d out wh at m ake s th e m tic k wh e n they are n’t b u sy de signing c lothe s . writer portraits shot by anthony FRiend

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

SG: What’s your favorite place to go in Los Angeles? DC: This changes quite a bit, but at the moment it’s Bronson Canyon. SG: Where would we find you on a typical Saturday night? DC: When I’m home, Saturday nights are usually consumed by dinners with friends, maybe at WoodSpoon, and most likely ending up at Tenants. This also depends on what I’m working on. You could also find me not leaving my loft consumed with a project.

StEphEn GArnEr X ChAptEr Since 2013, Los Angeles-based brand, Chapter, has been crafting simple, contemporary and functional wares to fit the modern man. Due to the talent of its creative director, Devin Carlson, the brand has grown tremendously since its launch. It can be found at influential retailers including American rag in Los Angeles, Selfridges in London and United Arrows in Japan. A native Californian, it felt only natural to ask Carlson about the growing influence of American menswear coming out of Los Angeles. But, of course, we still cover the ever-important acai bowl trend taking over Los Angeles, his favorite vacation spot and his guilty pleasures.

SG: What’s Los Angeles’s bestkept secret? DC: That you can drive 10 to 15 minutes, to find yourself surrounded by nature and feel like you’re not in the city. SG: What is your favorite work out? DC: Trail running. It clears my head and refocuses my attention. SG: What is your favorite band? DC: Not really a band but Nicolas Jaar. SG: What’s your summer anthem? DC: At the moment, I‘ve been listening to “Hopelessness” by Anohni. It’s incredible...that and “Views.” SG: Favorite vacation spot? DC: I just got back from Cuba last night and it was amazing. That being said, I travel a ton and rarely for vacation. Until I’ve seen everything on my list, I travel to different locations as much as I can. My favorite thing about traveling is taking in new experiences and having a more open way to look at your passions.

SG: Where do you most want to travel, but have never been? DC: Eastern Europe. SG: Drink of choice? DC: Red wine. SG: What’s one thing most people don’t know about you? DC: I’m not a secretive person, so this is a bit hard. I have an ivory handled [shape of a dragon] Katana Sword in my loft. SG: What are three things you can’t live without? DC: 1. People that I’m close to. 2. Alone time. 3. Constantly feeling a sense of progression. SG: What was your first job/how was that experience? DC: I taught karate when I was in my teens. It took a lot of patience and attention to detail. SG: Do you collect anything? DC: Magazines and photos. SG: What’s your most treasured item? DC: Black on black 1985 Mercedes 280GE. SG: What’s your favorite family recipe? DC: Some strange dish that my Mom makes only on my Dad’s birthday. Personally, I don’t like to use recipes. I enjoy cooking when I’m using what I have and trying new procedures and ingredients out. SG: Have you succumbed to the açai bowl trend? What are your thoughts on the uptake on trendy health foods/juices? DC: Ha, not really. But if I did I would go to São Açaí in Culver City. SG: What’s your guilty pleasure? DC: “Game Of Thrones.” SG: If you could time travel, what year would you travel to? DC: 2082. SG: How has the menswear/fashion scene changed in Los Angeles over the past few years? DC: There’s been a tremendous movement on the West Coast. I think we (Chapter) have gained a strong footing as one of the leaders in relevant menswear. The influence of social media has created an openness and visibility on menswear that has been seldom seen in Los Angeles Most places I travel to feel like their look is a regurgitation of a look that started elsewhere. That being said the current mood in Los Angeles has a tremendous amount of progressive, and personal style. Everyone wants to show a unique interpretation of the trend they feel is relevant.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

X horACIo SILvA X UrI MInkoff Uri Minkoff is one of the most tech-savvy guys in fashion. A former tech entrepreneur who is the CEo and partner in crime of his sister, the fashion designer rebecca Minkoff, Uri has brought his experience to bear with high-impact social media and in-store initiatives for the evergrowing brand. the 40-year-old digital native is also the creative force behind the company’s five-year-old men’s accessories line, which is named after him. horacio Silva caught up with Uri on the eve of his second men’s clothing collection.

HS: Hi, Uri, thanks for doing this. I was on a bunch of fashion sites earlier, in between watching some election coverage and tennis, and I couldn’t help thinking that there’s probably never been a sadder time for contemporary men’s glamour. UM: Well, the way men put themselves together is in a bit of a rough state. I probably shouldn’t say this, but it’s especially the case with the American consumer. When you get outside of New York and Los Angeles, it can definitely be a challenge in terms of how people present themselves. That said, I feel like we’re at the beginning of an awakening. There has been a lot of positive social change, including radical changes to how we see gender and masculinity, and we’re starting to break down some traditional ‘masculine’ concepts— being overbearing, not caring about style or manners—and opening up to the idea of style and chivalry. I’m actually really excited about where things are headed. HS: And, of course, ugliness can inspire designers. Wasn’t one of your collections partly a nod to Mark Zuckerberg’s pool slides? UM: Yep. A lot of these tech folks, whether it is Elon Musk or Jack Dorsey from Twitter, care about clothes and are not dressing like techies from the Zuckerberg era, when it was all about the Adidas slides and the hoodie and business cards that said, “I’m CEO, Bitch.” HS: There’s a lot made about you and smart technology, about your doing interesting stuff with intelligent mirrors and virtual reality. I know it’s a cornerstone of your business, but humor me and talk a bit about you and dumb technology. What apps do you use to goof off? UM: Ha! The two that I’m kind of obsessed with are Tumblr and Flipboard. What I particularly love about Flipboard is I can customize my feed and have stuff that I’m interested in from all over the world. I’ll kind of go back and forth and read

articles on nutrition, fashion, social media, sports and a bunch of things that I wouldn’t read if they hadn’t been amalgamated into one little feed. HS: What are some of the guilty pleasures on your feed? UM: I’m kind of obsessed with nutrition and with ketogenic diets. HS: That’s the coconut oil fat in your coffee approach right? UM: Exactly. My breakfast is basically a coffee or a tea with one or two tablespoons of coconut oil and grassfed butter as part of a 16-hour a day fast that I do and then I eat 70% fats and 30% protein/carbohydrates during an eight-hour window. Basically, this diet keeps your blood sugar low and your body is actually burning and operating off the energy from fat storages. I’m also obsessed with these high-intensity workouts in which you are doing a completely exhausting workout in 12to-15 minutes. HS: You work closely with your sister. Are you in the Frankie and Ariana Grande vein or more Kim and Rob Kardashian? UM: You know, Rebecca showed me this great picture the other day of Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, which made me laugh, so I’m going to go with me being Calvin to her Donna. But we’re a super close family so probably more Frankie and Ariana. HS: Got it. With your new men’s collection you seem to go after this unicorn of fashion. Who is this so called ‘modern urban man,’ Uri? UM: I get to travel a lot and I always found that if you sit in a restaurant or cafe or a hotel it’s easy to spot the American. So I started looking at the language of American style. For a while the ultimate in American fashion, which became the Williamsburg look, was this heritage Americana, and it just didn’t appeal to me. So I said, “What if there were this new concept of a global citizen, whether he travels or not, someone who you couldn’t peg as being from anywhere in particular?” I am obsessed with how the Japanese use color and do fun, unexpected things, and I also love the Scandinavian sensibility, with its clean lines and architectural look. But I want to combine them to create my own personalized language so that you can sit there and say instead, “Oh, that guy looks cool.” HS: So what’s next? UM: I’m excited about our new collection of men’s apparel and for spring I’ll be launching tech accessories and timepieces, which I’ve always wanted to do. HS: No plans to dress Trump for the inauguration if he gets nominated for Prez? I seriously hope he doesn’t, by the way. UM: True, true, it would definitely be gross for the country, but it would be amazing to take a crack at a job like that. Seriously, I’ll dress him if you help me. HS: I’ll do the hair!

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

BM: You’re based in Brooklyn but are selling what you call “West coast cool.” What are some of the differences you see in how men dress there versus here? MR: New Yorkers are more conscious about what they put on each day. Also the climate in California causes you to not acknowledge the passage of time, notice the seasons, or allow you to wear as many layers in a conscious, creative way.

BoB MorrIS X krAMMEr & StoUDt Michael rubin, the designer behind krammer & Stoudt, grew up in Southern California where he surfed, skated and played music in the SoCal punk scene of the 80’s. In high school, he airbrushed surfboards then went on to art school where he painted and made sculptures and videos. After that, he worked for a dozen years at Disney as a scenic artist and prop master. All the time he was trolling thrift stores for vintage suits to alter for wearing to punk shows. It all added up to his mature men’s wear vision—well-crafted garments with a deliberate southwestern aesthetic and a distinctive flair.

BM: You promote your work as having New York precision. What does that mean? MR: We tried making clothing in California and it was frustrating— slow, subpar, lacking precision. We relocated to New York because we decided that the culture of California was the reason for a stifled fashion industry. There was no motivation to produce with high standards that we could find. Our goal was to create something refined, elegant, and ambitious, but retain my personality and attitude, which is pretty much defined by life in California. Now we feel our collections reflect the cultures of both places; California and New York. BM: I’ve seen enough of men in flip flops and crocs. What have you seen enough of in men’s dressing and styling and what would you like to see more of? MR: It’s always changing for me. I’d like to see less super skinny shrunken suits. Less gingham shirts. More low tech Huarache sandals. The ones with the tire treads for soles. BM: Stupid me. I threw mine out after college. What else bugs you in fashion? MR: No more dresses, unless it’s a kilt.

BM: Agreed. You seem to have a retro southwest thing going that’s kind of noir. Tell us about what inspires you. MR: I have a studio in DUMBO and it’s noir and beautiful at the same time, and kind of still off the grid and lawless, like the old west. And the surrounding areas are basically inhabited by undesirables, homesteaders, artists and people who don’t want to be bothered by all the stuff you have to deal with when you live on the grid. When I’m there I’m getting dirty and digging trenches with a shovel. Dragging railroad ties around my yard. Getting close to the earth. That’s inspiring to me. It feels real. BM: That sounds great, although kind of exhausting. Any icons past or present? MR: In the past, it was Hawaiian and Australian surf icons of the 70’s. Larry Bertlemann, Michael Ho, Rory Russell, Gerry Lopez, Rolf Aurness, Terry Fitzgerald and Wayne Lynch. Those guys had style. In my hometown, the famous Hawaiian surfer David Nuuhiwa dressed outrageously. And so did most of the really good surfers who never became wellknown. They were so interesting and ahead of their time. BM: What are your thoughts on how candidates dress? MR: Boring. I would like to see the whole media coverage of the election process turned into an Emoji animation where the candidates mutilate each other. That would be much more entertaining. Along the lines of Metalocalypse. BM: Instead of talking about Donald Trump’s hair, let’s talk about your cats. You have two, I understand. MR: One male and one female cat, Cheddar Cheese and Lil’ Baby. BM: Karl Lagerfeld has turned his cat, choupette, into a celebrity with an Instagram account that says, “I’m Daddy’s spoiled chanel pussy.” It has 82,000 followers. Ever consider doing that with yours? MR: No. BM: What are your plans for after your men’s show this week? MR: Two weeks of surfing in California. Then two weeks off the grid in New Mexico, where I’ll work on my house and look at fabric swatches. And after working Pitti Uomo in Italy, I’m hoping to get three days in Cinque Terre. Since we travel with the collection, I’ll be wearing it to lighten the luggage load. I’m not sure what I’ll be wearing, but we’ll be posting it on Instagram. BM: We’ll be looking for it, Mike!

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

ER: How many episodes of “Hart to Hart” have you watched? DH: I’ve never seen it! When was that on? ER: The ‘80s! DH: I feel like I totally missed the ‘80s!

EDDIE roChE X DAvID hArt hart to hart. David hart takes our loose quiz on all matters related to his catchy last name. how’d he do? By the Daily front row’s Eddie roche.

ER: What year was David Hart born? DH: 1982. For some reason the ‘80s were lost on me. My dad was a jazz musician so I grew up listening to jazz music, and I was never exposed to pop culture from that decade. ER: Where is Hart Island? DH: I have to plead the fifth. I’m not doing so well at this. ER: It’s in New York. There’s a lot of dead bodies. DH: That’s a little morbid. ER: Who is Miranda Hart? DH: From “Sex & The City”? ER: No. She’s an English comedian and actress. What famous lake is near the city of Hart? DH: Lake Michigan? ER: Bingo! Name a Kevin Hart movie. DH: He has a new one out. The one with Ice Cube. “Ride Along 2”. ER: Have you ever met Kevin Hart? DH: No, but he wore one of my shirts on the cover of Rolling Stone, which was super cool.

ER: What would you say to Melissa Joan Hart if you met her? DH: That’s tough. I don’t know if I should make a Clarissa reference or a Sabrina reference. I’d ask her to explain it all! ER: Do people misspell your name? DH: They always spell it ‘heart,’ but I like it. It’s cute. ER: How many hearts have you broken? DH: Not a ton. At least three. ER: How many times have you had your heart broken? DH: Three. ER: We’re getting deep here. Name a song by the group Heart. DH: I don’t know that group. Is that an ‘80’s group? ER: Let’s not go there again. Tell us a story about your last name. DH: There’s an artist with the same name as me, David Hartt, who just had a show at the MoMA and now he has some work up at The Whitney Museum. We’ve become friends. If we ever go out to dinner and pay with our credit cards, people get really confused. ER: How did you meet? DH: He reached out to me because he wanted to wear David Hart to the opening of his show. He didn’t think I would respond but I thought it was the coolest thing, so I dressed him and went to his opening. ER: Any other Hart related matters we should know about? DH: I have one of Gary Hart’s campaign posters by Ed Ruscha that says ‘America Needs Hart.’ ER: You come up first in a Google search of David Hart! DH: That’s exciting. I hope the other “David Hart’s” aren’t throwing too much shade. ER: Before you go, what’s new with you? DH: I’m doing two shows this season. I’m doing my own label and working with Hart Schaffner Marx. Another brand with Hart in the title!

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

BW: What is your go to outfit? JW: In the summertime, I wear my favorite pair of tropical shorts with a clashing vintage, tropical, short sleeve button down. That time of year for me is about bright colors and comfortable fabrics. BW: Most recent purchase? JW: A Samsung watch. I love that it doesn’t look like a little computer. It actually just looks like a watch and goes with everything I wear.

BArrEt WErtz X WooD hoUSE part designer, part patriot, Julian Woodhouse is a name pretty new to the international fashion scene. But chances are you will hear a lot from him in the near future. Slated to show at SS17 new York Men’s Day at nYfW:M this summer, I thought I would get to know him a little bit better. I’ll get to talk to him about all the fashion stuff soon enough. So I asked hIM about who he really is, not his namesake label.

BW: What fashion rule should you break? JW: Monochromatic color schemes, denim on denim, and clashing colors. If the fit is right it doesn’t matter what colors or prints you fill it with. BW: What fashion rule do you think is legit? JW: Things should always fit well. BW: Do you splurge on fashion or do you prefer to save on fashion? JW: Save. BW: What’s your grooming ritual? JW: A cold water wash (thanks Naomi Campbell); a simple face soap; followed by a towel dry, and then toner with collagen. BW: Signature scent? JW: Zara 9.0. It’s made with bergamot, juniper, coriander, pepper, cardamom, orris, votives, amber, and cedarwood.

BW: If someone was going to make an action figure in your likeness, what is it wearing? What does it come with? JW: I would be wearing all royal blue and it would definitely have a cape. BW: Who would play you in a movie? JW: Jaden Smith. BW: What’s your secret talent? JW: I like to sing. BW: What is your charitable cause? JW: I would build a space for young creators to explore their talents and collaborate with other people. I would like to bring this space to people that wouldn’t be able to afford the same experience or are geographically located in a place where creating is challenging. BW: What was your first job? JW: My first real job was the U.S. Army. And I’m still in today. BW: Advice to my younger self? JW: Do not get too tied up in what people think. Go with your gut and trust your own impulses. If things don’t work out and you make mistakes; take note, and never make the same mistakes again. BW: How many pillows are on your bed? JW: Three pillows: one for my husband, Kirill; and two for me. BW: Best memory? JW: After my first show in New York. I walked backstage after the finale bow and I cried in the corner. Kirill came up behind me and we cried together. We had worked so hard to create something that we both believed in and, finally, what we spent the better part of the year preparing was finished.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

JG: I’m at a photoshoot on a sweltering hot yet equally humid day in NYc, where in the world are you right now and what are you doing? JWP: Currently in Seoul, Korea working on PLAC’s SS17 collection. I’ve been so focused on preparing it for the past two months, and now I’m finally done. We just shot the lookbook two days ago.

JoShUA GLASS X pLAC As mobile devices curiously shrink and instant messenger conquers the corporate email chain, still there endures an app for all that. In the time it takes to merely read aloud a sentence it can be relayed by a plethora of communication tools faster, smarter. this is time of high-speed everything, but given how plugged in we are, are we actually that connected? through a 13-hour time change, pLAC’s Creative Director Jae Wan park speaks to this over a blue-tinted screen.

JG: Isn’t is amazing and strange how easy it is to be in touch when we are so far apart? Does that ever disturb you? JWP: I mean, yes and no. Yes, because I’m always connected, sometimes it’s just impossible to have my own time for inspiration. During the weekend at least, I have to put my phone down. The good thing about it, though, is that I don’t have to travel so much. Even though I’m based in Korea, I can easily work with people around the world. JG: A lot of my friends use the “Find My Friends” app, are you familiar? It’s like the tracking tool, almost out of some “00’s” spy movie, that shows your location on a moving map. Between that, Instagram and Snapchat, I feel like I’m an easy target. JWP: This app is very popular for couples in Korea. Maybe my girlfriend set it up on my phone and is watching me every step of my way? Scary! There are a lot of [similar] apps here. You know Korea is very fast with technology because of Samsung and LG—they invent everything.

JG: Why do you think so many people are so obsessed with knowing everything about everyone? Even when the reality is actually very boring. JWP: I’m actually not obsessed. Believe it or not, I don’t use Instagram, Twitter, Facebook or any social networks. They’re just not fitting of my lifestyle. I do get inspiration from people, but I get it in real life. I know Instagram is very influential for the fashion industry, but I still keep to my old way of collecting magazines. JG: I imagine too much of this type of communication can hinder the creative process? JWP: Yes, sometimes, you have to get into your zone to get creative; however, if you are too into yourself, the collection doesn’t come out right. You need to balance it out. I try to unplug, but honestly, it’s not easy. I’m also a professor at a fashion school in Korea, so my students are always calling and texting me questions. JG: Do you think there is something lost in this quick, ASAP way we communicate today? I wrote a handwritten letter this morning and my fingers are literally tired. How sad is that? JWP: I’m still very old school, I think. Person-to-person speech is always stronger—more powerful—than on screen, and that’s how I communicate with people most of time. JG: Remember early on in the evolution of mobile devices, there were those types of phones that could call only five contacts? If you could only call five people for the rest of your life, who would they be? JWP: My parents, girlfriend, my twin brother...shit I don’t have five, haha!

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

NA: So you guys went to school at Parsons, right? PP: Yes, we graduated last year. NA: Did you like it? PP: It was a tough school, but I definitely learned a lot. And not just with fashion and technical stuff, but also how to meet and collaborate with other people. NA: Where do you live in the city right now? PP: Chelsea.

nICo AMArCA X prIvAtE poLICY the brainchild of parsons graduates haoran Li and Siying Qu, private policy is the latest new York based label that’s bringing downtown streetwear into decidedly more fashionable territory. After debuting at new York fashion Week last September, the brand quickly became a fascination among the city’s more avant-minded dressers thanks to its genderless silhouettes, high-end fabrics and novelty accessories like tasseled cord belts and oversized harnesses. I got the chance to chat with private policy co-founder Siying Qu to find out what piques her interests, what she likes most about living in the Big Apple and more.

NA: So where are you from originally? PP: China. Haoran went to high school in Canada, and I went to high school in North Carolina. NA: Random, but do you like “Star Wars”? PP: Honestly, I just watched my first “Star Wars” movie when the newest one came out. NA: Oh really? I’m just asking because that one piece you have with the furry sleeves, it reminds me of chewbacca. PP: Yes, uh huh, I remember him. NA: Do you get that at all? Because the first thing I thought when I saw it was like “Oh, it’s chewbacca.” PP: That’s very interesting because the original sleeve for that piece is from the movie “Snowpiercer,” where they actually went outside into the cold. But that makes sense because Chewbacca also had the long fur for the cold. NA: What’s on your iPod right now? PP: Right now, I have a lot of hip-hop stuff. I really like Chance The Rapper. He’s a very creative rapper.

NA: Do you like Korean rap at all? Do you know Keith Ape? PP: Haoran is actually more of an expert on K-Pop and K-Rap. But me, I just think they’re very fun and I love to look at their music videos. NA: I’m a huge K-Rap and K-Pop fan. The visuals are just insane. They’re just so crazy and there’s so much to take in. PP: I know. NA: How long have you been living in New York? PP: Almost five years. NA: Think you’ll ever leave? PP: I really like New York. It’s really creative and accepting of all kinds of cultures. We always travel and I don’t think being based in Asia is right for us. I’m going to be in New York for a while. NA: Do you have any favorite New York-based designers? PP: Well, before I was in school, one New York-based designer I always liked was Calvin Klein. During his era, that brand really showed off American style to the world, so casual, effortless and modern. Marc Jacobs is another signature New York designer. NA: Do you like Hood By Air? PP: Yeah, I really like the brand philosophy because he’s [Shayne Oliver] really bringing out his views on the social issues about race and gender. I think that’s very inspirational. A new wave of New York designers and menswear like to really explore things, not just within fashion but outside of it as well. NA: Yeah, I really love what they’re doing. I’m not big on the logos, but their cut and sew is so insane. They just put the weirdest embellishments on their clothing and it just works somehow. PP: Totally. NA: What’s one of your favorite things to splurge on in New York? PP: Going to restaurants! So many cool restaurants are always popping up. I want to try them all. NA: There’s really nothing you can’t find in New York. There’s literally everything. I actually just recently moved back here after living in Berlin for almost two years. The food was one of the biggest things that I missed. You just can’t get the same diversity in food in other cities, especially Berlin — because they pretty much only eat kebabs and currywurst, which I’m not a big fan of. PP: It’s more singular with many other cities.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

X FM: Were you into sneakers back in the day? NT: I have a background in skateboarding and I used to cycle quite a bit. When I opened up Goods , the sneaker boutique in Seattle back in 2000, that was the hype because we saw people were really into Jordan’s and all that, at least the first round of it.

frEDErICk MArfIL X MAIDEn noIr popinjay sat down with nin troung and Christa thomas the Seattle-based duo behind Maiden noir, the men’s label that merits a quip to the corporate dominated menswear market. founded in 2005, Maiden noir garnered a cult following in Los Angeles and tokyo with a diverse collection ranging from Americana workwear, military garb and athletic staples made from quality Japanese fabrics and manufactured here in the U.S. Each season, troung empathizes how real everyday guys dress themselves, filling the collection with clean and classic silhouettes and minimalist designs without the oversaturated logos and fast fashion. the brand’s aesthetic successfully balances slim-cut streetwear and tailored menswear.

FM: What was your first sneaker memory? NT: My first memories of collectible shoes are the regular Nike basketball shoes, like Jordans. I remember skating in those back in the day, you know, Jordan 1’s, not thinking they were that precious. Back then it wasn’t so much about collecting sneakers, it was more about wearing them and skating in them. FM: Which releases were you obsessed by? NT: Because we had the Goods shop and new styles kept coming out, there wasn’t really a “gotta have these” shoe for me because I was coming from the other side of the fence. I was more or less releasing them rather than collecting them. The anticipation was built more around the community of other people wanting them versus me wanting them. It was great to see people that would wait in line and spend the night. FM: What’s your favorite bookstore? CT: There are only a couple in Seattle so they would be either Elliot Bay or more design and architecture books which you can find at Peter Miller.

FM: What kind of music do you listen to at your studio? NT: At the studio we usually throw on the local independent station KXB or a lot of NPR to catch up on the news. Nothing terribly exciting. At home it’s different because we’ll get the record player out or listen to podcasts. When we play music at home it’s different and more for enjoying. When we are at work it has to be a median between several people in the studio. FM: What’s your current record on rotation? NT: The last records I bought were a Brazilian samba disco from ‘76, Sade and then I bought two Grace Jones albums. Christa and I buy each other records a lot. She got me a Neil Young one recently. Our collection is classic but pretty eclectic. Occasionally a metal album comes in the mix. FM: Where do you feel is the best place to visit or relocate? CT: We travel so much and I would consider Seattle home-base but there has always been something I’ve loved about New York, but I don’t think I could live there. We lived there for a bit while doing a long project in Washington Heights. We designed a garden for a school project. It was a great experience going up and down the city everyday but I think that is one thing, the commuting is not something we really like to do. I like to look out of our first floor window and see trees. There is something about being in Seattle and being surrounded by water and nature while still being in a major city. Europe would be a fun place too because we would be able to explore a bunch of small cities. FM: What movie best reflects your style? NT: I would say “High Fidelity” because Scott is awesome and plays a know-it-all record store geek so I kinda like that aspect of it. I really like that trench coat look. FM: What are your three necessities to pack for a 10 hour flight to Tokyo? NT: 1. Headphones 2. My laptop because I have some time to squeeze in additional work 3. Flexible footwear because after 10 hours on a flight your feet do start to grow. If there were a fourth, a book or something; it’s not good to look at a screen for 10 hours straight.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

X StAn WILLIAMS X DAvID nAMAn While popular in Europe for more than a decade, the David naman label is one that is mostly unfamiliar to north American consumers. thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about to change as the brand launches a full menswear collection to be sold at U.S. and Canadian retailers starting with the spring/summer 2017 season. David Mayer naman, the heart and soul of the contemporary menswear brand, spoke from his office in the Eternal City of rome about the importance of family in life, his passion for youthful energy and his love of swimming in the bubbly waters off the coast of Sicily.

SW: I know that your family is very important to you. can you tell me a little bit about it and why? DN: We came to Italy in 1967. I have three brothers and a sister. I am the last one of five. Between my sister and me, the youngest one, there is a 10-year difference, and between me and the eldest there is a 21-year difference. So because of my age difference, my brothers are like my fathers to me and my sister is like a mother to me, so I have four fathers and two mothers! I was six years old when we came here (to Rome), so when my brothers and sisters had children, they were like my own brothers and sisters because we were so close in age. We left Libya where we suffered so much and came to Rome without money or anything, so we became very close. Our family is really, really, very, very close to one another. SW: You live in Rome, one of the oldest cities in the world, but you seem to have such a youthful attitude. How do you do it? DN: I surround myself with young people. They are like a geiser that is pumping hot water from the earth. I like young people around me all the time, during my social life, during my work, during everything. And I also like very, very, very old people. I like their experience. I like their philosophy. I like the extremes.

SW: Why do you think you like that? DN: Young people? Because they have energy and passion, and a world without passion cannot move. If you force yourself to walk because you have to, you suffer for that. But if you walk with passion, you don’t suffer at all. When I walk with young people, I feel their energy. With old people, I like them because they don’t have any reason to lie. If you do something wrong or stupid, they’ll tell you because they are less politically correct. SW: What age do you feel? DN: I feel like a young person. I’m like a mirror; I reflect the energy of young people around me. I have a lot of experience but I’m also lucky to have young people around me, so I can say that I’m also young. SW: I know you like to travel. What are your favorite places? DN: I like the Mediterranean Sea and I love Greece and Sicily. Sicilian water is where I see energy. When I am in the Maldives, the water is very relaxing, warm and beautiful, and the weather is nice. But no energy. You jump in the water of Sicily, and it’s like jumping into San Pellegrino water. It’s all bubbles, the bubbles you feel all over your body. I also love the nightlife in Istanbul and Santorini. SW: Do you have a philosophy you like to live by? DN: Real happiness is not happiness unless it is shared.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

JO: Where are you from? PT: I was born actually in Manchester. I’m a Mancunian.

JO: How many fights have you been in in your life? PT: So many. Do you want to see the scars on my head? They’re all ex-girlfriends. JO: Did you used to go... PT: To the Hacienda? Yeah. I saw Joy Division there.

John ortvED X MAX ‘n ChEStEr Like any true 24-hour party person, peter trainor, 52-year-old designer of Max ‘n Chester and native of Manchester, has seen his fair share of shows at the hacienda. the music—from Joy Division to deep house—that he absorbed in his youth infiltrates and supports the diverse realms of his everyday life, especially his work in fashion design, a world, the son of a tailor, was basically born into. Along his journey through family apprenticeship to fashion houses like hugo Boss and three Dots to his own brand, trainor has interwoven a fascination with Japanese fabrics and construction. Always marching to the tune of his own drum machine, here, with journalist John ortved, the designer discusses those passions, as well as the shops in tokyo, Joy Division, and those pesky “fashion barnacles.”

JO: The bandana around your neck: it’s a thing right now. PT: It’s been like this since I was 18. I have to tell you Manchester has always been strong with fashion. Garment construction. I will say, because I’m from there, all the leading graphic designers of the world like Peter Saville and Matt Farrow, all these guys come from Manchester. JO: How did you get into design? PT: From family. From the start of the Industrial Revolution, my family was involved in tailoring. They had their own practice, their own studios, and then it turned into their own factories. It just went through legions of the family. And so I ended up taking my mother’s side rather than my father’s side in order to be in fashion. JO: What was your father’s side? PT: My father’s side was a radiographic engineer. JO: What is that? PT: I don’t know! JO: Ok. When did you start making clothes professionally? PT: Oh my God. Around 1987. Giuliano Fujiwara. I was an

assistant designer. To be honest, I was kind of like the “runaround” boy, go get the coffee and go get the tea. JO: And then where did you go from there? PT: I worked with Hugo Boss, Fiorentino in Spain, and then I worked with a company called F homme, a small knitwear brand. And then I did a couple corporate things which were very corporate, which I didn’t enjoy. Then I worked with Three Dots. I started this four years ago. JO: What’s the dumbest thing someone in fashion has ever said to you? PT: There have been too many. There was a skit on Jimmy Kimmel where they ask questions about designers who don’t exist to all these fashionistas outside the shows— JO: —My friend calls them “fashion barnacles.” PT: Yeah! But I would have to say that skit reminded me of a lot of stuff that you could have a laugh with in this business. JO: So, if you love sweaters, why has it taken it four years to bring them in? PT: At first, I didn’t want to do it as a full category. I just wanted to bring it through gradually. But now for fall/ winter we will introduce sweaters. But that has just been finding the right partner to do this with. JO: What’s the worst part of this business for you? PT: Now, all the traveling that we have to do. JO: You don’t like traveling? PT: We just travel too much. If you’re traveling a lot you know your business is going in the right direction. But to be honest with you, I don’t love it. You know? And some of the bullshit you have to deal with. The thing that I can’t do is that attitude that sometimes goes along with the business, because I don’t really have any. There’s no need for it. We just do a business. It’s a beautiful business that we’re in. JO: We are in the schmatta business. It’s pretty simple. So what do you bring in from your experience with music to your designs? PT: I think I got great schooling at design school. But in 1981, when all the Japanese designers hit Paris—Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, Kenzo—that was my real education. But also music. I have a real passion for music, which I really want to integrate into the expression of the collection in our future shows. You know? Because I was always attending like everything from punk gigs when I was 13, or 14, to going to the Paradise Garage here when I was 18, or 19.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

X WB: Hey Robert. RJ: Hello? WB: Hi. can you hear me? RJ: Hello?

WILLIAM BUCkLEY X roBErt JAMES When the popinjay team asked me many weeks ago to be a part of this ‘secret project’ I was obviously intrigued and as always, honored. Erin has always supported me, fast friends and anything she needs I’m (mostly) there. So I accepted, and this piece with my “homie” robert James is the product. (technically, I’m “oldskool homies” with his wife Michelle Lindsay but “mi casa es su casa” as they say.) of course, when doing this interview, I was in a ‘no phone zone (Soho house, West hollywood)’ and had to negotiate the screening room filled with oversized red velvet sofa beds and me. With my phone in one hand, recording, and a second phone belonging to a friend in the other hand, I listened to robert’s voice coming across the speaker. A friend in need is a friend indeed, but the reception was also terrible! no matter. I’m a pro. I got everything. And here it is (mostly).

WB: can you hear me? RJ: Okay, I can hear you now. 6 o’clock on the dot, goddamn that’s punctual man. I thought we were keeping this casual? WB: Umm...I can call back...if that’s.... RJ: *laughs* No, no, let’s do it. WB: Oh one sec...is that better? RJ: Yeah absolutely. WB: Okay, well tell me everything. What’s up? RJ: Um, really nothing man, just that baby that was in Michelle is out now, you know? On Earth and stuff. WB: I heard! You’re a dad for the second time! RJ: It’s a wild scene dude! And you know, I do my thing man. I take my time. I get the kids in the morning, and a little bit at night, you know you gotta handle that. Get the eldest, WJ, to school every day. And I try to take the baby with me on that. When WJ was born, I would literally stroll with him for two hours in the morning all around the park, clear my head and stuff. Well now I stroll the other kid to school too, so you know, with one kid in one stroller and the other one twirling around on some kind of three wheeled thing out in the traffic or whatever. Yo, are you there homie?

WB: Yeah, I’m here. can you hear me? Hello? Hello, can you hear me? RJ: Umm, William? WB: Yeah, I’m here. Oh shit, hello? **Hangs up the phone and calls back** RJ: Yo WB: Hey, I could hear you but you couldn’t hear me. RJ: Nope I couldn’t hear a lick. I was like, “holy crap I’m on the phone by myself. I wonder how long that’s been going on?” Actually I’m used to that at home: the kids, the wife nobody hears me. And now the kids are going over to my wife and being like mommy, daddy’s not listening to me.’ And I’m like “I am listening to you, I’m just not doing everything you command me to do. Anyway, whatever, life’s on hold for a couple of months. I was gonna do a pop-up in Los Angeles and the baby came and I was like ‘oh yeah, I can’t do shit for a couple months.’ WB: A couple months!? RJ: It’s curtains bro. If you want to, like, meet the kid; keep your wife sane, and keep the family sorted in any way, shape or form, you can’t be running around the world, you know? WB: Makes sense. RJ: It’s just like one of those things. And it’s the last time, man. Like I’m never gonna have another baby pop out, you know? WB: Really? RJ: So, yeah, no, that’s it. WB: That’s it? Two? RJ: I thought it was enough already. I had told my wife hell no. That was while I was having sex with her to have the second kid. I was like “No, we are not doing this right now. Not happening.” Yeah, she told me I had to, and I was like no way, I’m not doing this, but I did it anyway, so there’s that. Now we have a baby to handle while our three-year old decides to flail himself on the ground and be all inconsolable. WB: Oh. That happens to the best of us. RJ: Oh yeah, dude. That happens to me like twice a day. Why do you think I moved to New York and became a designer? Because that’s basically totally allowed. You can totally do that. You can just totally freak out twice a day and it’s totally fine.

NOTES, QUOTES, & ANcEDOTES

DM: I was asked to do an “off the wall” interview with you. So, I’m just gonna start firing off weird questions. You ready for this? DG: All good. DM: Do you sleep with anything at night? DG: Besides my iPhone, I have this thing where I have to sleep with doors closed. Like, I can’t have doors open, it’s an OCD thing, I guess. DM: Are you scared something will jump out? DG: I guess. I used to watch “Are You Afraid of the Dark?” when I was a kid, so I think it stems from that because the crazy was always coming out of the damn closet.

DAn MIChEL X rIDEAU Designer profiles are supposed to contain a little backstory, insight into what inspired the current collection, and a description of some key pieces. Add a kicker quote at the end, and you’ve got yourself a story. But I wanted to do something different with 25-year old Dylan Granger, the mind behind California-based luxury basics line rideau. I wanted to actually get to know him. So, in lieu of exploring more predictable topics, I asked truly revealing, albeit random, questions. In the end, I knew more about him as a person than most designers I’ve worked with for years, somehow breaching the topics of sleep deprivation, stoner food, posing naked for cash—all within 15 minutes. this might need to be my new interview method.

DM: I loved that show. What are you afraid of? Like, what’s the one thing that would jump out of that closet and make you shit your pants? DG: A giant spider, man… DM: That’ll do it. DG: That would kill me. DM: Understandable. DM: Besides closed doors, what helps you get to sleep? DG: Smoking a little bud helps me knock out, but that’s probably it. DM: Do you have a favorite strain? DG: Nowadays? Shit, all these strains. Probably this one called “cheese”—oh, and “girl scout cookies.” DM: How can you tell the difference between the two? DG: Some of them are more of a cerebral high and others are more body highs. Cerebral high’s kind of cloud me—like it’s overload. I hate sativas. They make me way too anxious. I’m definitely a hybrid guy.

DM: What do you eat when you get the munchies? DG: I’ve been trying to eat fruit because I’m on my health kick. But, if you want to throw it back, skittles. DM: The best. OK. Back to these questions. What was your favorite Halloween costume as a kid? DG: I used to dress up as this green monster. My mom made it. I’m trying to picture it. It was like a green dragon, “Puff, the Magic Dragon” let’s call it. DM: This interview seems to have a common theme. DG: Right. Right. DM: Look at your phone and tell me the last text you sent. DG: Just the words? No context? DM: Yeah. DG: “Don’t be fucking late.” DM: Is that a mantra of yours? DG: Yeah, because I’m always fucking late. So I don’t want anybody else to be late. It’s contradiction, I know. DM: So would you ever strip or pose nude in a magazine? DG: Yeah, if the money was right. DM: What’s the dollar amount? DG: I’m saying a mil. DM: Wow. DG: Yeah. DM: You’re telling me, if I walked up to you with a suitcase with $500,000 you’d tell me no? DG: (pauses) Nah, I’m gonna say yes to that. My quote’s a million, but I’ll do it at a lower rate. DM: $100,000? Cash. DG: Ah, shit. I’d probably still do $100,000. No, nah! No. No. No. No. No. I’m keeping it at $500,000. DM: A man of conviction. I like that. OK, last question. If you could bitch slap somebody, dead or alive, who would it be? DG: Oh shit, man. I could give you like 10 people, but I’d say Chris Brown. DM: Why? I mean besides the obvious. DG: Yeah he’s just a bitch, man. Like, I don’t get it, I don’t get him. I don’t get why he wants to be a tough guy. Like, you’re from Virginia. You’re not a Blood. It’s just a lot. I don’t like a lot of celebrities though. I’ve been wanting to fight Chris Brown for like a long time. DM: Do you think you’d win? DG: I would. There’s no question about it. I’d fight him with one arm behind my back. DM: Oh, damn. Big words. DG: I trained MMA and Muay Thai, too so I’m not too worried about that. DM: So you could legit kick his ass one handed? DG: Yeah, I’d play that card. DM: Well then, remind me never to fuck with you.

foreign exchange NEW YORK. FLORENcE. Who does

it best? We asked five NYC-based menswear experts to give us their best interpretation of the cities. Our conclusion? They are both so damn good.

Photography: nyrA LAnG | Photo Assistant: Shen WiLLiAMS | Fashion Direction: JonAthon ZAdrZynSKi

F L O R E N C E

Marcus Teo Global Creative Director & International Style Nomad

Suit: Marcusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Own Shirt: +J Uniqlo Tie: Robert Talbot Shoes: Ralph Lauren

N E W

YO R K

“

Italian fashion is pure theatre. Style and fit and colour are much appreciated so one is encouraged to dress with a little more panache. All with a sense of sprezzatura, of course. New York is effortless chic. It’s like Disney on Broadway versus Arthur Miller on Broadway.

”

Jacket: Marcus’ Own T-Shirt: Hanes Sunglasses: Rayban Shirt Worn Around Waist: Matiere Pants: Dockers Shoes: Greats brand

F L O R E N C E

Hat: Stetson Jacket: Salvatore Ferragamo Shirt: Salvatore Ferragamo Pants: Salvatore Ferragamo Belt: Original Penguin

N E W

YO R K

Kevin Breen Market Director & Stylist

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

I love the different types of fashion expressed by different heritages

â&#x20AC;?

Hat: Bailey of Hollywood Shirt: J.W. Anderson Shorts: Hood By Air Shoes: Diadora

F L O R E N C E

David Yi Fashion Editor at Mashable

Italian fashion is all about sprezzatura, that is, making your look seem casual, maybe a little off, your tie imperfect—nothing ever too primped or pampered. New York, on the other hand, is unabashed, bold, brave. It’s in your face. But whether you’re in Florence or NYC, one thing is clear for Dudes of Fashion: No one—I mean no one— wants to be perceived as if they’ve worked on their look. It’s that air of cool that everyone aims for, one that makes you seem like you don’t care when you really, really, really do. Scarf: Hermes Shirt: Matiere Pants: Paul Stuart Shoes: Saint Laurent Hat: Stetson

N E W

YO R K

Jacket: Lord Studios Shirt: Nicopanda Pants: Balmain Shoes: Dior

F L O R E N C E

Michael Cook Fashion & Market Editor OUT Magazine, Stylist

Glasses: Saint Laurent Suit Jacket: David Hart Scarf: vintage Shirt: American Apparel Pants: COS Shoes: SunSteps

N E W

YO R K

Sunglasses: vintage Shirt: Zara Pants: Dries Van Noten Shoes: Adidas

When I think of Italian menswear I immediately think of tradition and what that means currently. A take on the classics. The New York look for me is much more of an eclectic mix of things and a bit more relaxedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; reflective of our mixing pot culture thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always on the move.

F L O R E N C E

Ian Bradley Stylist/Outfit-Maker

NYC has a sporty loose luxe vibe, Florence more of a tailored eccentricity mood.

Suit: David Hart Shirt: Quartersnacks Sunglasses: Illesteva Shoes: Missoni x Converse

N E W

YO R K

Hat: Kangol Shirt: Quartersnacks Watch: Swatch Pants: David Hart

boy wander Look aroUND. Ever

wonder who would make for a good model? We set out to solve this mystery with a beat-up cargo can, rolling racks of clothing and a really good stylist.

Photography: eMMAnUeL SAnCheZ-MonSALVe | Stylist: PAUL-SiMon dJite | Stylist Assistant: CAthLeen PeterS | Fashion Direction: JonAthon ZAdrZynSKi

shirt: a.p.c. jeans: h&m boots: louis leeman hat: model’s own tank: model’s own belt: vintage earring: vintage chain: model’s own

Model: ian Weglarz | @ianwhatshisname

shirt: nico panda boots: Dr. martens pants: number (n)ine necklace: model’s own

Model: Jabari haan “Cuzzi” @jacuzzi

shirt: roberto cavalli jeans: customized leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dog tag: modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own boots: a.p.c. belt: vintage

Model: Jacob Suthers @devils.trill

shirt: staple jeans: leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 511 sneakers: nike jacket: officine generale

Model: danny Mannix | @danny_mannix

shirt: roberto cavalli pants: scotch & soda espadrilles: louis leeman hat: obey

Model: Luca Bertea | @lucabertea

top: sacai shorts: woolrich sneakers: saucony

Model: Andrew nelson

top: fred perry pant: a.p.c. shoes: santoni

Model: Malcolm evans @mikhailevans

PLACE BEYoND

the pines photographer JAKE JONES stylist PAUL- SIMON DJITE groomer SUZANA HALLILI using MINERAL BLAcK TIE & MARIO BADEScU talent LUcA @ RED & JAMIE @ IMG fashion direction JONATHON ZADRZYNSKI

PREVIOUS LEFT MODEL shirt ORIGINAL PENGUIN tank STYLIST’S OWN sweater STYLIST’S OWN trousers DAVID HART boots FLORSHEIM rings + bangle + necklace GEORGE FROST earring ANNELISE MIcHELSON RIGHT MODEL shirt LUcIO cASTRO tank STYLIST’S OWN trousers DAVID HART belt PRIVATE POLIcY shoes MINNETONKA accessories GEORGE FROST

THIS PAGE shirt ORIGINAL PENGUIN tank STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN shoes MINNETONKA rings + bangle + necklace GEORGE FROST

sweater ORIGINAL PENGUIN earring ANNELISE MIcHELSON

LEFT shirt luCio Castro tank stylist’s oWn trousers david hart belt private poliCy shoes minnetonka accessories george Frost RIGHT shirt original penguin tank stylist’s oWn sweater stylist’s oWn trousers david hart boots Florsheim rings + bangle + necklace george Frost earring annelise miChelson

hat STETSON coat BURBERRY shirt HERMES tank STYLIST’S OWN trousers PRADA belt PRIVATE POLIcY shoes MINNETONKA rings + bangle + necklace GEORGE FROST

coat DIOR HOMME shirt ORIGINAL PENGUIN tank STYLIST’S OWN trousers DAVID HART belt STYLIST’S OWN shoes MINNETONKA earring ANNELISE MIcHELSON rings + necklace + bangle GEORGE FROST

LEFT jacket PRADA shirt LUcIO cASTRO tank STYLIST’S OWN trousers DRIES VAN NOTEN belt STYLIST’S OWN shoes MINNETONKA rings + bangle + necklace GEORGE FROST earring ANNELISE MIcHELSON

RIGHT hat STETSON coat DRIES VAN NOTEN shirt LUcIO cASTRO tank STYLIST’S OWN trousers cANALI belt PRIVATE POLIcY shoes MINNETONKA rings + bangle + necklace GERORGE FROST

reQUISIteS Read this. Our experts just might save your life this NYFW: M.

Photos by GAVin ChriStoPher | Retouching by ryAn MonAGhAn | Story by Joe yAnG

B e s t i n s h ow 4

John Mather Style Director, Men’s Fitness

1. S’well water bottle: Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

5. UrbanearS earbuds: Calming

2. Mark CroSS dopp kit: The standard

6. apple shockabsorbent phone case: Crucial

3. altoidS: Indispensable 4. HerMèS cologne: Go-to scent

7. roHto eye drops: Miracle worker

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Dopp it to Me

1. CHoCo taCo: Heat controller

6. aUtodroMo sunglasses: Italian swagger

2. My Middle SCHool tennis racquet: Serve it up

7. Stolen Hotel pens: Take notes

3. tUrnbUll & aSSer bowtie: Dress up to get down

8. toM Ford exfoliating energy scrub: Sexy face

4. FlaSk: Must have 5. erneSt alexander shave kit: A classic

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Zachary Weiss Columnist, New York Observer

9. GHoSt no SHow socks: For the sockless look 10. boxerS: Risky business

toDD’s Fashion week essentials

1. MaSter & dynaMiC headphones: Best combination of sound & style 2. Jan Marini’S Bioglycolic face wash: My secret for tight, bright and impossibly fresh skin 3. livinG prooF dry shampoo: When there’s no time for a shower, freshen up 4. Matiere dopp kit: Perfect do-anything pouch

5. SMoke & MirrorS sunglasses: Classic silhouette and every pair is handmade in France. Très chic. 6. JenniFer FiSHer cufflinks: You don’t always need cufflinks, but when you do, they better be monogrammed. 7. SaMSUnG Galaxy S7 phone: For snapping pics at brightly lit shows and dimly lit parties

Todd Plummer Freelance writer

8. Joe Malone fragrance: Barely-there and natural smelling 9. bUrt’S beeS Beeswax Lip Balm: Always have kissable lips—you never know 10. tiFFany & Co. pen: A gentleman always carries a pen 11. GreatS sneakers: They’re perfect with jeans, and surprisingly good with a tuxedo, too.

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6 11

7 8

9 10

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Jonathan’ s Fashion week Dopp kit 1. JaSon Markk water repellent: Protection from scuffed shoes at crowded parties.

6. odin cologne: Because smelling good is important. 7. wriGley’S doublemint gum: Double your pleasure, double the fun

2. etro dopp kit: Gotta keep all your stuff in order.

4. woodFord Reserve 5. Maker’S Mark whisky: When the open bar closes, these’ll help.

13. bUrt’S bee’S chapstick: You should probably be carrying this no matter the occasion.

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12. baxter grooming lotion: Light hold, heavy versatility

9. beroCCa: Vitamins, minerals, and most importantly—caffeine

10. lab SerieS Max LS eye treatment: Even if you’re tired, there’s no need to look like you’re tired. 11. biGelow hand lotion: Why are all the venues so damn dry?

8. baxter deodorant: Remember that advice about smelling good?

3. Salt sunglasses: For sunny days (and the cold light of morning).

Jonathan Evans Senior Style Editor, Esquire.com

@hungryeDitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dopp kit 1. lotUFF toiletry bag: Handmade in America, Lotuff is about quiet luxury. 2. prooF sunglasses: Sustainable with UA/UVB protection. 3. aeSop deodorant spray: Summers in NYC can be brutal, but they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be smelly.

4. SUperGoop sunscreen from Heyday: Skin protection is also key. 5. tUMi power charger: Extra juice on the go.

Benjamin Liong Setiawan Contributing Editor, Esquire & Forbes

6. JUlien Farel flexible paste: Growing out my hair & this is perfect for quick touch ups. 7. Carry on Old Fashioned kit: Gotta be prepared. Cheers! 8. SMytHSon notebook: Because I still appreciate analog things. 9. Go pro camera: More discreet for runway videos than a huge iPhone in the air.

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101

By no...WiTh niCk WooSTer

1. GREY 2. NUDE 3. BLAcK 4. LIGHT BROWN 5. POWDER BLUE 6. NAVY BLUE

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n i C k S u LLivan’S

| crossword

m a n ’ s Fa s h i o n p u z z l e

DoWn 1

Italy’s master of cashmere lifestyle 2 The origional high-tops from 1917 3 Recently parted from Yves 4 Scratchy cloth from an island in the Outer Hebrides 5 Antwerp’s finest 7 What Brits call “braces” 8 New York’s origional street style snapper 12 NY Menswear star, once partnered with Jeeves 13 One time tie salesman turned global fashion giant 14 Austria’s Lang 16 London street known for high-end haberdasheries 18 You do a “for-in-hand” with one 19 Not Oxfords 20 Pair of ____ 23 Zoolander’s arch nemesis 24 Brit brand that invented the trench 25 Foorwear brand of choice for Run DMC 26 Kanye’s bonkers sneakers 27 Half-belt on the back of an overcoat 32 Maker of the SeaDweller 33 Inside button on a DB jacket 36 Chanel chapeau

aCroSS 17 Paris Faubourg that is home to Hermes 19 Not single breasted 22 Laced dress shoes 28 Shoes or $ 29 “The Devil Wears ____” 30 The first general interest magazine for men, published in 1933

31 Famous summer hat ironically NOT from the place it is named after 34 Paris’s Christian 35 Alabama’s Billy 37 Milan Maestro 38 New York’s Thom

19. doUBLe BreASted 22. oXFordS 28. BUCKS 29. PrAdA 30. eSQUire 31. PAnAMA 34. dior 35. BiLLy reid 37. GiorGio ArMAni

The future of Calvin Klein Italian word of nonchalance Legendary Italian shades Diana Vreeland said it has to travel 11 They wear them in Scotland 12 Style icon Duke 15 American heritage brand from Maine

across 6. rAF SiMonS 7.SPreZZAtUrA 9. PerSoL 10. eye 11. KiLtS 12. WindSor 15. LL BeAn 17. St honore

Down 1. BrUneLLo CUCineLLi 2. ConVerSe ALL-StArS 3. hedi SLiMAne 4. hArriS tWeed 5. drieS VAn noten 76. SUSPenderS 38. BroWne

6 7 9 10

103

8. BiLL CUnninGhAM 12. WooSter 13. rALPh LAUren 14. hALMUt LAnG 16. SAViLe roW 18. tie 19. derBy 20. BroUGeS 23. MUGAtU

24. BUrBerry 25. AdidAS 26. yeeZy BootS 27. MArtinGALe 32. roLeX 33. JiGGer 36. Beret

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