Technical file 2019

ANDRY CHEN BA (Hons) Cordwainers Fashion Bags and Accessories Product Design and Innovation

04 - 07 08 - 35

HEALTH AND SAFETY Introdution to the rules for using the worksop

CORE SKILLS TOOLKIT & MACHINERY SEAMS CONCAVE & CONVEX ZIPS & POCKETS HANDLES TOOL BAG & PENCIL BAG PIPING & FRENCH BINDING

36 - 53

TECHNICAL SESSIONS BAG DECONSTRUCTION BASIC PATTERN CUTTING SINGLE PIECE PATTERN TWO & THREE-PIECE PATTERN T-BASE BAG PATTERN

56 - 67

FINAL BAG DESIGN CONCEPT MOOD BOARD SKETCH DEVELOPMENT 1ST MOCK UP 2ND MOCK UP FINAL BAG

HEALTH AND SAFETY

SAFE WORKING POLICIES FOR WORKSHOPS AND STUDIOS In order to ensure a pleasant and safe working environment for everyone please follow some basic guidelines-Locate an exit route out of the building in case of an emergency If you hear the emergency alarm you must follow staff instructions and leave the building immediately Eating and drinking (with the exception of water) are not allowed in the workshops.

It is very important to keep the work and floor space around you clear of all rubbish including paper and thread.

This is for your own safety as these are slipping hazards If you are unwell or require First Aid tell a member of staff immediately If possible, should you find somebody who is unwell or requires First Aid, find a person who can stay with them while you tell a member of staff Always keep aisle clear of any obstructions including personal property

When using any adhesives or solvents you must use the fume extractor which is situated in the main Open Access area Do not glue on the cutting boards, machines or tables, this will damage your work, other students work and the workshop equipment Hole punching must be done on the appropriate table and not on the cutting boards. There are only a certain number of cutting boards and if they are damaged in this way they will have to be removed for resurfacing Report any faulty equipment to a member of staff so that it can be fixed quickly College tools are expensive and difficult to replace so if in doubt about how to use them please ask a member of staff There are a limited number of specialist bobbins and bobbin cases so if you have borrowed one it must be returned at the end of the day Please respect the environment and do not waste pattern paper or materials.

There are recycling bins for pattern paper in each room and a scrap bin for materials in the Open Access area All broken needles and blades need to be placed in the sharps bin located in the open Access area, do not throw them into any other bins You must throw any rubbish away in the bins, never leave rubbish on the floor as this can cause accidents At the end of your day please leave your workspace tidy and return any tools you have borrowed

HEALTH AND SAFETY

SAFE WORKING PRACTISE FOR MACHINERY Make sure you have been inducted on the machinery before you use it Please read the relevant Safe Working Practise notices displayed and follow any operating advice on the machinery The London College of Fashion requires that a minimum of 3 students need to be present in a room if machinery is in use All mobile phones and personal stereos should be switched off when operating machinery A GREEN sticker on the machine means that you can use it if you have been inducted and there are at least 2 other students present in the workshop A YELLOW sticker on the machine means that you can use it if you have been inducted and you have made staff aware that you are using it

A RED sticker on the machine means that a member of staff will operate the machine for you Make safe any loose clothing and hair Do not switch the machinery on until you are safely seated Make sure the power is off and your feet are clear of the treadle when you are threading a machine, changing a needle or adjusting any settings Keep your fingers away from any moving parts When operating machinery concentrate on your own work Always switch off machinery when not in use

RED : STOP! Only trained staff members can use this equipment. Students are not permitted to use the equipment.

AMBER : Supervision required Students can use the equipment but must get approval before each use. The staff member will supervise, and students may not use the equipment if no staff are within proximity.

GREEN : Proceed with caution Students can use the equipment once they have had an induction, and are competent in its use. The ‘three student rule’ applies and lone working is not permitted.

CORE SKILLS

TOOLKIT & MACHINERY Introdution of essential tools and machines.

SEAMS Cut seam / Turn seam / Butter seam / Boot seam / Top-stitched boot seam / Lap seam

CONCAVE & CONVEX Concave and convex turing with reinforcement.

ZIPS & POCKETS Flat zip / Flat zip pockets / Collar zip drop-in

HANDLES Flat handle / Round handle / Round handle with D-rings

TOOL BAG & PENCIL BAG Tool bag & pencil bag pattern cutting and construction

PIPING & FRENCH BINDING

TOOLS / Essentia tools and its uasage

CLICKING KNIFE POINTED BONEFOLDER This is used for folding paper, pleating a folding allowance, folding down a glued seam and pushing out turned seams. It is also useful for marking stitch lines on leather as it won’t damage the surface.

A handle with two types of blade.

A straight blade is used for cutting patterns and soft, fine leather and materials. A curved blade is used for cutting thicker leather and materials. Always keep both blades sharpened.

SCISSORS A sharp pair of scissors are useful for cutting & trimming pattern paper, material & leather. Small scissors or snippers are useful for cutting thread ends

BOBBIN Pfaff bobbin case for cylinder arm machine.

DIVIDERS FOLDING HAMMER A folding hammer is a hand held tool used to hammer down folds or open out seams. One end is rounded and smooth for hammering, the other has a flatter edge more suitable for folding.

These are essential for adding seam allowances to patterns and spacing accurate measurements

STEEL RULER AWL

Steel rulers are used to ensure a perfect straight edge when cutting patterns and leather and cannot be damaged by blades unlike plastic or wooden rulers

Used to mark position points and registration marks on patterns, leather or other materials. Can also be used for pleating a folding allowance

ROTATING PUNCH Rotating punches are useful but mini & maxi punches are not limited in their reach if you need to punch patterns etc.

MASKING TAPE & DOUBLE SIDED TAPE Masking tape are useful for sticking paper mock ups together. Double sided tape can be a useful alternative to adhesive

SCALPEL used for cutting patterns, leathers and materials. Always change blade when the used blade is not sharp anymore.

MACHINES / sewing machine skiver

Sewing Macine / Cylinder arm sewing machine

Thread placement Up for back stitch Foot lift (behind)

Stich adjuster

Tension plate (adjust tension) Foot Bobbin case placement Guide S

thickness

B sewing allowance

switch / off (press)

Pedal trigger

switch / on (press)

tight loose

Skiving machine / Thickness adjustment

Adjust the thickness of leather’s edges.

Presser foot lever Depth guide with adjustable locking acrew

Insert leather from this direction.

Before skiving

Skived

switch / off (press)

switch / on (press)

Pedal trigger

Treadle press / To attach beckles and duradots on leather.

strap width and thickness adjustor

strap insert

Folding machine / To fold a handle or shoulder strap.

switches (press) Pedal trigger

SEAMS /

Cut seam/

Butter seam, lap seam, boot seam, top stiched boot seam.

Stitches showing outside with raw edge pieces

grain

flesh step 1 / Put together two pieces of leather with flesh to flesh, and align to the top.

step 2 / Sew a line which is 1cm from the top edge. Back stitch at first and last three.

Turn seam/ Stitches are not showing outside step 1 /

step 2 /

step 3 /

Put together two pieces of leather with grian to grain, and align to the top.

Sew a line which is 1cm from the top edge.

And back stitch at the first and the last three.

Flip over both two pieces from the stitching line.

grain

flesh

Butter seam/ Stitches showing outside

step 1 /

step 2 /

mark 2cm from the top at flesh side and draw a line as preparation for folding.

skive for 1.8cm from the top as preparation for folding.

grain

flesh

step 3 /

step 4 /

step 5 /

step 6 /

Fold the top edge with 1cm folding allowance.

Stack two pieces done with step 3 with the side of flesh.

Align with the top edges.

Apply double side tape on the folding part at the top, and stick two pieces together.

Stitch 2mm from the top with two pieces sticked.

Back stitch at the first and the last three.

Boot seam/

step 1 /

step 2 /

step 3 /

Flip the both sides of the turn seam piece and make it flat.

Stick the edge piece with the body after flipping.

Done.

Start from turn seam

grain

flesh

Top-stitched boot seam/ Start from boot seam

step 1 /

step 2 /

step 3 /

Set the machine with 2mm sewing allowance, and stitch from the middle line.

Stitch another side also from the middle line.

Done.

guide

grain

guide

flesh

Lap seam/

step 1 /

step 2 /

step 3 /

Stitches showing outside

Mark 2cm from the top at flesh side and draw a line as preparation for folding.

Skive for 1.8cm from the top as preparation for folding.

(Just on e piece)

Fold the top edge with 1cm folding allowance.

grain

flesh

step 4 /

step 5 /

step 6 /

Lap another piece of leather on the folded pieces from step 2, allign the unfolded piece against the folded line .

Allign two pieces side to side and stick, then set the machine with 2mm sewing allowance.

Turn over the sticked piece to grain side and stitch on the folded one from the middle line.

guide

CONCAVE & CONVEX TURING / Leather concave and convex turning with reinforcement

Step1/

Step2/

Cut out leather piece with folding allwance = 1cm all around and the reinforcement.

grain

flesh

Step3/ Cut the concave part of leather as picture shows.

Fold and stick it to the reinforcement, with the distance between each piece equally. Leave the corner unfolded.

leather

reinforcement

Apply rubber solution on the flesh side of the leather and stick the reinforcement in the middle of the leather

grain

flesh

17

Step4/ Fold the sides with bone folder and leave the corner unfolded.

Use awl to help folding the convex part of the leather. Fold gradually and equally.

Step5/ Fold the edges to the shape as picture shows and cut off the peak. Use hammer or bone folded to make the cut area flat.

Step5/ Stitch all around the piece from the grain side with seam allowance = 2mm.

When stitching the corner, turn the piece with niddle stick into the leather piece, and the foot lifted.

ZIPPERS / Pattern cutting, french binding, pencil bag

Types of zips materials / constructions

O/E Open end zipper

Coil zipper

Reverse coil zipper

O-shape C/E Two-way O-shape closed end zipper

X-shape C/E Two-way X-shape closed end zipper

Metal zipper

Plastic molded zipper

19

Flat zipper / patterns / constructions

w22xL6

w11xL10

Cut the pattern of W22 x L6 and the W11 x L10.

Cut out fabrics (body-fabricx2,linenx2) (side-fabricx2, linenx2)

w11

w11 w22

flesh grain 1cm linen back

w22 Draw 2cm from the side on the back of four fabric pieces (on the side of 11cm & 22cm). Apply rubber solution and fold with folding allownace =1cm.

Stick the zipper with the folded side of the fabric, align against the line wich is 1cm from the edge.Apply rubber solution on the W22xL6 linen pattern.(1cm)

zip back

Stick the linen with the piece from step2. Alignig against the line which is 1cm from the edge. Sew the side of grain with s/a=2mm

flipped flipped flipped

Stick the side as picture shows and stitch it to body with s/a=2mm from the edgeof the side linen which facing outside.

Flip over the linen piece after sewed and repeat step2&3 for the rest of edges.

Zipper pocket 1 / patterns / constructions

Cut out pattern of W22 x L15 and a hole for zipper positioned 3cm down from the top with W=16 x L=1

Cut out pattern of W22 x L19 as pocket.

Cut out fabrics with those two patterns.

Mark the position of the zipper hole at the back of fabric and cut out a papper piece with same size of the zipper hole and 1cm all around it as reinforcement.

Stick the reinforcement on the fabric and cut the zipper hole with two triangle at the side and a line in the middle as picture shows.

Flip the part cut in zipper hole area and stick the edges to the reinforcement.

Stick the zipper to the zipper hole from the back of the fabric.

Stick the pocket piece with its flesh side to the flesh side of zipper piece and match the edge with the edge of the zipper upside down.

Stick the other side of pocket to the top of the zipper and stitch together.

21

Zipper pocket 2 / patterns / constructions

Cut out pattern of W22 x L15 and a hole for zipper positioned 3cm down from the top with W=16 x L=1

Cut a leather piece with hole size same as zipper hole and 1cm all around it. Stitch leather piece on the fabric with s/a=2mm from the of the leather, matching the holes. Trim off the fabric inside the hole.

Stitch from the front of the fabric with s/a=2mm from the edge of leather which is the side close to the zipper

Cut out pattern of W22 x L19 as pocket.

Cut out fabrics with those two patterns.

Stick the pocket piece with its flesh side to the flesh side of zipper piece and match the edge with the edge of the zipper upside down.

Stick the other side of pocket to the top of the zipper and stitch together.

Stitch the other side of the pocket and the zipper together from the front of fabric with s/a=2mm from the edge of leather.

Drop-in zipper collar / patterns / constructions

w19xL2 cut out aquilinex2 (collar reinforcement) w21xL4 s/a=1 cut out fabricx2 (collar)

w21xL10 s/a=1

cut out fabricx2 (body)

w21xL12 s/a=0.7

cut out fabricx2 (drop-in)

23

Step1/ Apply rubber solution on collar fabric pieces and the reinforcement pieces. Stick the reinforcement piece int he middle of the collar fabric.

Make notches in the middle on the edge of fabrics.

Step2/

Step3/

Step4/

Step5/

Fold and stick the edge of the fabric to the reinforcement an d leave the corner of the upper edge unsticked. Apply double side tape on the down edge.

Cut a middle notch on the zipper and stick the front side on to the back of the collar, matching the middle notches.

Fold the end of the zipper to little triangle to end up zipper and apply double side tape on the edge of the zipper.

Stick the drop-in piece on the zipper grain to grain and the edge of the zipper as guide.

Step6/

Step7/

Step8/

Step9/

Stitch the collar, zipper an the drop-in together from the front side with drop-in piece flipped and the s/a=2mm.

Do the same process from step 2 to step 6 on the other side of the zipper.

Also stitch from the from with drop-in piece flip to other side and the s/ a=2mm.

When finish step8, flip the drop-in an the zipper as picture shows and stitch the side for the hole piece with s/a=1.

Step10/

Step11/

Stitch pieces of body together by the side grian to grain with s/a=0.7. Leave the corners at the top unsticked.

Flip the body to the grain side and put the drop-in collar zip in.

Stitch all around on the top after drop in.

Drop-in collar zip sample finished.

Drop-in zipper collar 2 / patterns / constructions

Step1/ Cut out patterns (W32xL15 /zip collar) (W32xL10 /lining) (W30xL4 /reinforcement) (W22xL10.6 /zip gussett) (W20xL8 /pattern card) (W3xL6 /zip tab) And cut out fabrics and leathers collar-fabricx2 / lining-fabricx2 / reinforcement x2 / zip gussett-fabricx2 / collar reinforcement(pattern card)x2 / zip tap-leather x1 /

Step2/

Step3/

Step4/

Step5/

Stick the paper reinforcement in the middle of zip collar fabric. Apply rubber solution on the whole piece.

Stick aquiline to the dropin collar as reinforcement.

Match the down edge and place int he middle.

Fold and stick the the zip collar all around the edges and the drop-in collar at the top edges.

Fold and stick the end of zipper to about half to the middle.

25

Step6/

Step7/

Step8/

Apply rubber solution the the end of the zipper(front & back, **not on middle) and the zip tap (one cut of the hole in middle)

Stick the zip tab to the zip, matching the edges of the front and the back tab.

Stitch the tab to the zip all around tab’s edge with s/a=2mm from the front. Trim off the a hole for zip to go through at the back tab after stitching.

Step9/

Step10/

Stick zip collar to the zip as picture shows and fold the end of the zip to a triangle shape. Fold the collar to half as picture shows.

Fold the collar to half, matching edges of itself.

Stitch all around the collar with s/a=2mm except the bottom of the collar.

Step11/

Step12/

Do the same step of 9 and 10 at the other side of the zipper.

Stick the drop-in collar to the zipper as picture shows and stitch with s/a =2mm. Do the same on the other side. Stitch the sides of the whole piece with s/ a=2mm.

HANDLES / Pattern cutting, french binding, pencil bag

Flat handle constructions

Step 1/ Fold the edges | Draw 2cm from top on the long side of both front and back body piece. Fold 1cm at the edge.

Step 2/

Step 3/

Construct the handle strap |

construction of the chape |

Apply rubber solution on the grian side of the handle strap piece, and fold both two sides to the middle (long side)

Fold the chap piece in half to find the middle line, and use hole puncher to make a hole for belt buckle.

Step 4/ complete chap & fix it on body | make a strap for fixing belt, and attatch the belt buckle and the strap to the chap.

Fold the chap and attach it to the front body with buckle. Then stitch the chap all aroud the edge.

27

handle piece

belt buckle Body (back)

Body (front)

buckle

Materials / Step 5/ sewing the handle strap | Fold the handle strap into half and sew around the edge with s/a = 2mm, and puch holes on handle strap for belt buckle

Step 6/ Handle strap to the body | Put one side of the handle strap between front and back body pieces, and allign two body pieces at the top.

Top stitch along the edge of body.

Attach another side of handle to the belt buckle.

chape

4cm (paper rope width)

Flat handle constructions

3mm (s/a) 1cm (trim off later)

Duplicate the lower part. (for the back of the chape)

approx.

2cm

adjustment for extra thickness

Chape (free shape)

Step 1/ Cut out patterns & leather| Measure the width of the rope and make pattern with 3mm s/a and 1cm to trim off later.

Design the shape of chape and cut one for the back as well.

Cut all pattern out in leather.

Apply double side tape in the middle of the leather. Trim the end of the paper rope thinner.

Step 2/

Step 3/

Step 4/

Step 5/

Stick the paper rope to the middle of the leather. Apply rubber solution on the whole piece and the back chape piece.

Stick the back chape piece and sew the side as picture shows when the handle is still flat.

Stick the leather aroud the rope and stitch it with rope facing inside to the machine**.

Trim the edge(1cm part) of the rope off and stitch the chape to the body.

29

4cm (paper rope width)

Flat handle

3mm (s/a)

constructions

1cm (trim off later)

HANDLE Chape (free shape)

adjustment for extra thickness

approx.

2cm

same shape duplicate of lower part of handle as back

CHAPE

Step 1/ Cut out patterns | Measure the width of the rope and make pattern with 3mm s/a and 1cm to trim off later. Duplicate the lower part of the handle as back.

Trace the curve down connecting the duplicate part and the handle, matching new paper and the handle piece with middle line.

Design the shape of chape below the traced curve line, and duplicate the shape from the top of traced curve lines.

Step 2/

Step 3/

Step 4/

Step 5/

Stick the rope to the middle of handle piece and skive the lower part of the piece. Apply rubber solution on the whole piece.

Put D-ring in the circled part.

Fold and stick the lower(duplicated) part to the handle and stick the whole piece around the paper rope.

Stick the leather aroud the rope and stitch it with rope facing inside to the machine**.

Trim off the edge of the handle and attach piece of chape to the other side of D-ring. Sew the cahpe to the piece of leather.

PIPING & FRENCH BINDING / Pattern cutting, french binding, piping

Step 1/ Cut out patterns | Cut out pattern of W20xL15, add curve at the down corners(Master pattern).

Cut out cutting pattern by adding seam allowance=6mm from the master pattern.

Step 2/

Step 3/

Stepping off from the middle of the cutting pattern with the paper folded to get the half length of the side and base of the body.

Cut out the side pattern with the measurement from stepping off(doubled) as side gussett x L5.

Step 4/

Step 5/

Cut out fabrics from the body pattern and the side gussett pattern.

Cut of piping leather piece(L2 x gussett length+4cm) and the french binding piece (L3 x W30(top of the body + gussett Lx2))

L2 x gussett+4

L3 x W30

31

Step 6/

Step 7/

Step 8/

Apply rubber solution on the piping leather piece and fold it in half.

Mark 2cm from the top of the body as the starting and the ending point of the piping.

Stitch the piping on the body with s/a=2 (for position)

Step 9/

**/

Step 10/

When stitching the corner, cut the edge of the piping piece as picture and turn against the corner and stitch.

Always stitch the piping piece on the main body first (side piping on the side piece first) to position the piping piece.

Stitch the side gussett to the body with s/a=6mm. Leave the start and the end of piping(2cm from top) from the hide from the front and unstitch.

Step 11/

Step 12/

Step 13/

**/

Cut the corner of the top in the back off for french binding stitch to go through later.

Stick the piece for french binding on the top of the body and stitch 2~3mm from the top. Apply rubber solution after stitching.

Fold the piece to the back of the body and stitch just under the piece from the front.

Stitch just under the french binding piece or on the piece.

Step 14/

Step 15/

Trim off the lower part of the french binding wich is unstitch in the back.

Finished.

TOOL BAG /

Flipover clutch with buckle attached Colour | Black Scale | Wxx * Lxx * Dxx (mm)

Pattern cutting tool bag construction

Step1/ Pattern cutting and measurements Master pattern | scale, duradot locations Net pattern | flip, back, front, duradot locations, flip allowance Cutting pattern | flip, back, front, duradot locations, flip allowance, folding allowance, notches

Master pattern /

Net pattern /

Cutting pattern / folding allowance = 10 mm (all around)

100

duradot 25

flip

flip

flip allowance = 10 mm W 360mm x H150mm

50

flip allowance = 10 mm notch

back

back

front

front

33

Step2/ Cut out leather from the cutting pattern.

Fold the edge all around for butter seam.

Cut out the leather by using cutting pattern and apply rubber solution all round the edge in width of 20mm.

Fold the edges by 10mm, using pointed bonefolder to make it stick fit.

Apply duradots at the marked points.

rubber solution

After appling duradots and have the edge folded.

folded edge

folded edge

Fold the body except the filpover cap and stitch all aroud with sewing allowance = 2mm.

folded edge grain

PENCIL BAG / Pattern cutting zipper bag construction

pencil bag with zipper Colour | stripes (mock-up) Scale | Wxx * Lxx * Dxx (mm)

Step1/

French binding /

Pattern cutting and french binding

s/a approx. =2mm fold over the piece

W21 x L12

fold again and sew the side trim off piece left in the back Cut out pattern with W21 x L 12cm and cut two fabric and two linen with the pattern

Make notches in the middle of the fabric and fold 1cm from the top.

Do the french binding at the end of the zipper as picture shows.

Make notches in the middle of the linen pieces as well

Stick the fabric to the front of the zipper as picture shows, matching the middle notches. Stick linen piece to the back of zipper upside down and with the edge of zipper as guide, matching middle notches.

35

Step2/ Stitching all together

Stitch from the front with s/ a=2mm, and do the same steps to the other side of the zipper.

After finishing same process on the other side of the zipper, put together linens and fabrics as picture shows.

Stitch all around with s/ a=0.7cm on fabric and s/ a=1cm on linen. *** with zipper opened*** Leave a space at the bottom of the linen unsewed (approx.started from 4cm from the side)

Step3/ Flip and complete the final stitch

Flip the whole piece to the grain side a s picture shows through the hole left at the bottom of the linen.

Stitch the hole left at the bottom of the linen on the grain side by pulling it out after the whole bag flipped.

Finished.

TECHNICAL SESSIONS

BAG DECONSTRUCTION Flipover with flat handle and shoulder strap.

BASIC PATTERN CUTTING Squaring off / Adding curve / Duplicate / Adding s/a / Stepping off / Division of net

SINGLE PIECE PATTERN W-base / T-base / Cross base / Raised W-base

TWO & THREE-PIECE PATTERN Round base / Side gusset / All round gusset

T-BASE BAG PATTERN T-base tote bag / Specification sheets

LEATHER BAG DECONSTRUCITON

< side view >

Flipover with handle and shoulder strap Colour | Black Scale | Wxx * Lxx * Dxx (mm) From | Fara charity shop Due | 9th Sep. 2018

< back view >

< perspective view >

39

Step1/ Removing strap and handle

Step2/ Removing the flip

A

B

C

piping edge / lap seam

D

E

F

G

H

Step3/ Seperating the innate and the outter part of the bag

There are two layers of the bag, the outer layer is with buckles attached, and the innate bag is separated into three parts, with one having front pockets, one is the middle bag, and one with the zipper pocket in the back.

C

A

B

C

butter edge

|

folding allowance = 10 mm

zoom in

41

Insight between bag layers

D

The bases of the side strap were sewed together with the outer and the innate bag, with sewing allowance = 15 mm

E

F

G

H

I

outer bag

innate bag

bases of side strap sewing allowance = 15 mm

butter edge

|

folding allowance = 10 mm | sew = 3mm

Step4/ deconstructiong the outer bag and the side piping

flip inside out

perspective view

A/

B/

C/

D/

Turn seam all around side plate, sewing allowance = 5mm. With side piping sewed on the side plate first.

43

Step4.2/ Side |

removing and decontruct the side piping from side plate

Side piping strap - with plate width = 20mm, plastic tube with width = 2mm, sewing allowance = 3mm.

Started 25mm from the top of the side plate, with sewing allowance = 4mm.

PATTERN CUTTING / BASIC PATTERN CUTTING & SINGLE PIECE PATTERN Cross, W-base, T-base

PATTERN SEQUENCE 1/ MASTER PATTERN Cut out master pattern (front) A

B

12 cm

C

D

F

G

E

10 cm

A,B | Find a pattern paper bigger than 12x10cm, scroll the middle line with side 12.

H

C,D,E | Square off the top by adding hole with awl with pattern folded with middle line.

F,G,H | Measure 5cm (half of width) from the middle line and cut it off.

I

J

K I,J,K | Measure 12cm from the top, make a hole by awl with pattern folded and cut the line with the line connecting holes on both sides with pattern unfold.

Step 1-1/ Duplicate | Create a totally same pattern with reference

Scroll a middle line.

And square off the top.

Put the oringinal pattern on the the new with both folded. Matching the top and the middle line.Draw the outline of the original pattern on the paper.

Cut it out and get a duplicate one.

Step 1-2/ Adding curves | Making pattern with round edges.

Cut a new pattern, scroll a middle line and square off the top. Cut out a size of rectangle.

Trace the curve of any cylinder stuff at the edge of the pattern.

Cut the pattern out with pattern folded.

Get pattern with curvy edges.

Step 1-3/ Adding s/a | Adding seam or folding allowances for cutting pattern.

Cut a new paper, fold it in half with middle line, square of the top.

Mark 1 cm(s/a) from the top and draw a horizontal line.

Put the original pattern on the new one, with both folded, matching the middle line and the 1cm line from the top.

Trace the oringinal pattern all around by divider with 1cm(s/a).

Cut the new pattern out with the outline drawn with divider and get pattern with seam allwance=1cm.

Step 1-4/ Stepping off | Making pattern with round edges.

L Cut a piece of curve edges and a random piece.

Draw a line on the piece and mark a start point.

Match one corner to the start point.

Press awl into the curved pattern at the final point of intersection, matching the drawn line.

Keep the awl anchored down and pivot the curved pattern until once agian the edge of the curve pattern meets the drawn line.

PATTERN SEQUENCE 2/ MASTER PATTERN Master, net, cutting pattern

12cm

1cm

0.5cm

3cm

notches

10cm

10cm

The pattern only for the front of the bag.

FRONT

Net pattern/

12cm

Master pattern/

1.5 cm

The pattern of the whole bag (as construciton) = Master pattern + side + base + back

BASE

Cutting pattern/

Drop-in pattern/ Pattern for cutting out drop- in fabrics. =Net pattern + seam allowance(2), which must be smaller than cutting patternâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s/a.

BACK

SIDE

Pattern for cutting out leathers. With seam allowance and notches. = Net pattern + seam allowance + notches

DIVISION OF NET PATTERNS/ For a cut through seam of a bag

12cm

Net 1

cut through seam

step 1/ Cut out a master and a net pattern.

Master

step 2/

Net 1

Net 2

Duplicate the net pattern and draw the position of the seam on the duplicate one.

step 4/ Cut out cutting pattern by adding seam allowance on the split net pattern saperately.

10cm

3cm

step 3/

Net 1

Cut the duplicated net pattern with the seam and divide it into two pieces.

Name the split pattern.

Net 2 (up)

Net 2 (down)

Net 2 (up)

Cutting (up)

Net 2 (down)

Cutting (down)

Pattern1/ T-base

6.5 cm

Use master pattern to cut out t-base pattern

5 cm

side

12 cm

front

13.5 cm

27 cm

base 12 cm

back

3 cm

NET PATTERN

10 cm 13 cm

Find a pattern paper bigger than 13 x 27cm, scroll the middle line with side 27.

Mark 5cm from vertical middle line with awl.

Square off the top.

Cut the vertical line of 6.5cm from the middle with pattern folded.

Mark 6.5 from the middle line and make a hole by the awl with pattern folded.

Draw a line with two point of 6.5 from the middle line with pattern folded.

Cut the vertical line of 5cm from the middle with pattern folded.

Copy the outline of master pattern on the t-base pattern.

Trace the upper part with pattern folded with horizontal middle line.

Mark 13.5 from the top and make a hole with pattern folded and connect two point with pattern opened as horizontal middle line.

Cut the the beneath and get the whole t-base pattern.

Step2 / cutting pattern | Make a pattern with allowance by using net pattern

A.

B.

C.

D.

Mark 1cm(seam allowance) from the top after scrolling the middle line and squaring off.

Put the net pattern on the piece of step A, allign against the middle line and the top with the line on top drawn in step A. Copy down the outline.

Draw 1cm all around the outline of net pattern by divider and cut the pattern with the line draen by dividers.

Make notches on the cutting pattern cut out from step C.

Step3 / cut out fabric | Cut out fabrics with cutting pattern.

A. A.

B.

C.

D.

Mark 1cm(seam allowance) from the top after scrolling the middle line and squaring off.

Put the net pattern on the piece of step A, allign against the middle line and the top with the line on top drawn in step A. Copy down the outline.

Draw 1cm all around the outline of net pattern by divider and cut the pattern with the line draen by dividers.

Make notches on the cutting pattern cut out from step C.

Step3 / construction |

Sew the cut out pattern to form a bag

A. A.

B.

C.

D.

Mark 1cm(seam allowance) from the top after scrolling the middle line and squaring off.

Put the net pattern on the piece of step A, allign against the middle line and the top with the line on top drawn in step A. Copy down the outline.

Draw 1cm all around the outline of net pattern by divider and cut the pattern with the line draen by dividers.

Make notches on the cutting pattern cut out from step C.

pattern2/ W-base

6.5 cm

Use master pattern to cut out t-base pattern

5 cm

side

12 cm

front

13.5 cm

27 cm

base 12 cm 3cm

back

3 cm

10 cm 13 cm

Find a pattern paper bigger than 13 x 27cm, scroll the middle line with side 27.

Square off the top.

Mark 6.5 from the middle line and make a hole by the awl with pattern folded.

Mark 5cm from vertical middle line with awl.

Draw a line with 8cm (5+3(height of triangle)from the middle line.

Cut the side of the pattern includes the triangle part.

Draw a line with two point of 6.5 from the middle line with pattern folded.

Copy the outline of master pattern on the t-base pattern.

Fold the pattern with vertical middle line and trace the upper part.

Cut the beneath part.

Mark 13.5 from the top and make a hole with pattern folded and connect two point with pattern opened as horizontal middle line.

Mark the sizes and the patternâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name.

pattern3/ CROSS Use master pattern to cut out cross pattern

17 cm 5 cm

12 cm

13.5 cm

12 cm

10 cm

3 cm

Find a pattern paper bigger than 13 x 27cm, scroll the middle line with side 27.

Measure 1.5 from the horizontal middle line and mark with awl.

Square off the top.

Mark 6.5 from the middle line and make a hole by the awl with pattern folded.

Measure 13.5 from the vertical middle line and mark with awl with pattern folded. Connet the symetry points with pattern opened.

Draw a line with two point of 6.5 from the middle line with pattern folded.

Cut the upper part of the pattern till the horizontal middle line

Copy the outline of master pattern on the t-base pattern.

Fold the cut part with the horizontal middle line. Trace the outline and cut out the whole pattern

Mark 13.5 from the top and make a hole with pattern folded and connect two point with pattern opened as horizontal middle line.

Mark the sizes and the patternâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name.

PATTERN CUTTING/ TWO OR THREE PIECE PATTERN Side gusset, all round gusset, round base

Pattern1/ Round Base

B 1/4 L

8cm L

12 cm

B

C

Mark points of quarters on the long edge of body pattern and fold those points into lines which divide the pattern in to four equal pieces. Apply masking tape on one of the long edge.

E

Make notches at matching points on cutting pattern and use cutting pattern to cut out fabrics.

Cut a pattern of W=12cm, L=8cm as base pattern and add curve at the corners. Stepping off to find the 1/4 length of the base pattern. Use the length to cut out body pattern.

D

Stick the body edge to the base pattern, matching divided points with horizontal and vertical middle line of base pattern as testing.

F

Stitch the short edges on flesh side of body with s/a=1cm.

Sew the body on the base with all notches(divided points) matched.

After making sure the body and the base pattern matching each other, cut out cutting pattern of the body and the base.

G

Turn over the bag and do top stitch.

Pattern2/ All round gusset A Cut a pattern of W=20cm, L=14cm as body pattern and add curve at the corners. Mark the starting and the ending point of the curves.

10cm 20 cm

B

C

Cut out cutting pattern by adding s/a from net pattern. Cut notches at the points for matching.

D

Stepping off to find the length all around the body.

Mark the length between curves and straight lines.

E

Use the measurements from stepping off to cut out net side pattern and the cutting pattern. Make notches with the marked points.

Cut out fabrics with the body pattern (x2) and side pattern (x1). Stitch fabrics together from the flesh side

Pattern2/ All round gusset A 12cm

10cm

B

Stepping off to find the length all around side. Mark the length between curves and straight lines. Use it to cut out body pattern.

Cut a pattern of W=10cm, L=12cm as side pattern and add curve at the corners.

Mark the starting and the ending point of the curves. Make cutting pattern by adding s/a. Cut notches at the points for matching.

C

Cut out cutting pattern of body by net. Make notches with the marked points.

D

Cut out fabrics with the body pattern (x1) and side pattern (x2). Stitch fabrics together from the flesh side

FINAL BAG DESIGN

CONCEPT MOOD BOARD Concept inspiration / Photo collage

SKETCH DEVELOPMENT Concept sketching / Design amendments

1ST MOCK UP Fabric body / Leather details

2ND MOCK UP Mock up fabric / Design amendments

FINAL BAG Spec sheet / Materials and orders / Leather bag construction