Restaurant Review Taj Mahal. By Dennis Gilbert.

REVIEW

The T aj Mahal

BY DENNIS GILBERT.

FTER DINING at the Taj Mahal Indian restaurant on 43 Middle Street, yo~are asked to sign the g':!:estbook, an in teres ting documeh t whose "Comments" spaces contain many expressions of approbation ranging in enthusiasm from Mmmm! to As good as anything in Boston or Washington! Because our own afterdinner impressions were soundly at odds with these sentiments, it seemed best to make a return visit. On our second evening at Taj Mahal we discovered tha,t_the atmosphere, as before, was. camfortable in an unusual and entertaining way. As before, the service was efficient and the host most cordial. And once again, the fare was of inconsistent quality.

Beyond its hospitality, the best this restaurant has to offer is its free license to use those pungent aromatics characteristic of Indian cuisine -spices like fenugreek, tumeric, cloves, ground coriander, and fennel seed - seldom found in Portland's restaurant kitchens and savory in ways we Yankees are unaccustomed to, At Taj Mahal these flavorings are most skillfully employed in the side dishes. The Indian-style salad, for example, is a combination of five ordinary vegetables revitalized by a marinadej dressing nicely balanced between sweet tang and bright piquancy. Both the dahl and sag alu (spiced lentils, spinach, and potatoes) also suggest that the chef has a sense of what these heady flavorings can do for ordinary foodstuffs. Other dishes, however, are dangerously close to being bland, as in the case of the vegetable soup. The menu notes that while most Indian dishes are boldly spiced, they may vary in degree of spiciness (mild to hot) and that it is up to the patron to order accordingly. For some of Taj Mahal's fare, the splash of cayenne pepper per degree is a disservice, as it masks the intent; for others it is particularly desirable.

The flavoring of the entrees here is not so easily divined and analyzed because the preferred method of preparation is long, slow cooking whose purpose is to mingle and harmonize rather than orchestrate compatibility with contrast. It is a method found most often in regional cookery, and it is particularly useful. for taming such feral seasonings as cloves and fenugreek so that they may be married to the sturdy savor of the lamb and the willing but easily dominated flesh of the chicken. At .its best this method clothes in homespun disguise food which is at heart complete, complex, and enigmatic within its unifying simplicity. The method is magic, but it is trickier than just putting the pot on to simmer. It takes hours of gentle coaxing to effect the coalescence, but the bond is fragile and breaks down after a while. After being held too long the meats become lifeless, the vegetables watery, the spices empty. Using this method, Taj Mahal steers a crooked course between success and failure. When flavor is foremost, as in the lamb dishes, the food is good; when you are preoccupied with an overworked texture, well, then you don't notice the flavor.

Another point of interest in favor of most Indian restaurants is the variety of dishes. A good Indian meal is a feast, a pleasure assault of flavors, textures, colors, temperatures, novelties, and inventions. Since everything at Taj Mahal is a la carte, and since, ounce for ounce, the food here is as expensive as any food in town, the best bet for value and variety is one of the thaliJs, either . vegetarIan or non-vegetarIan.. Along with raita (yogurt with cucumbers) and a fine fruit chutney, you are served a cross-section of the menu - six samplings with one, eight with the other. Each thali comes with Indian mattar pilau, a basmati-type rice with grated carrots (as do most of the entrees).

Shortly after our first visit we received a note from the staff of Taj Mahal in appreciation of our patronage. Such a practice suggests a good business sense, thoroughness, and attention to detail which, if applied to all phases of this restaurant's management, could make it a much better place to dine. S E LEe TED RES TAU R

A ANT S

Restaurants are listed as a counesy in this section as space allows. To guarantee inclusion of your hsting for the next year, call Portland Monthly Classifieds, 578 Congress Street, Ponland, Maine 04101. (207) 775-4339.

Alberta'r. 21 Pleasant Street, Portland. Also 27 A Forest Avenue, Portland. All the selections from Alberta's ever-changing menu are cooked to order over their mesquite charcoal grill. Steaks, seafood, and butterflied leg of lamb are accompanied by homemade soups, breads, and desserts, including "Death by Chocolate." Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch. Major credit cards. 774-5408.

The Baker's Table. 434 Fore Street, Portland. Relaxed bistro beneath the Old Pon Bakehouse offers diverse European cooking - veal, fish, tournedos, homemade chowders, soups, and stews, including bouillabaisse, are available, as well as fresh breads and pastries from upstairs. Local anists exhibit occasionally. Major credit cards. 775-0303.

The Blue Moon. 425 Fore Street, Portland. Ponland's new jazz club restaurant features Ie jazz hot - live -nightly as well as an entenaining dinner menu. A strong addition to Portland's nightlife. 871-0663.

Boone's. Custom House Wharf, Portland. They've been serving an extraordinary range of seafood since 1898. Ponland memorabilia and antiques are displayed in the heavy-beamed dining room, and there are nightly specials in addition to the extensive menu. Lunch and dinner daily, all major credit cards. 774-5725.

Dock Fore. 336 Fore Street, Portland. Daily specials in this cozy Old Pon setting include burgers, quiches, soups, chowders, fresh fish, steamers, and mussels. Lunch and dinner. 772-8619.

EI Mirador. 50 Wharf Street, Portland. The true taste of Mexico comes to the Old Pon. Direct from New York City, El Mirador prepares authentic Mexican food from the freshest ingredients daily. Dine in the Ixtapa, Chapultapec, or Veracruz Rooms. Linger over a margarita in our exciting Cantina. Or enjoy those warm summer nights on the patio. Open for lunch and dinner. Call for reservations. 781-0050.

The Madd Apple Cafe.23 Forest Avenue, Portland. An intimate American bistro located in the Portland Performing Ans Center. Offering a changing menu; specialties include Carolina Chopped Pork BBQ, Shrimp Remoulade, tournedos Marchand du Vin, and Bananas Foster. Lunch and dinner. Major credit cards. 774-9698.

Moose Crossing Dinnerhouse. Coastal US Route I, Falmouth (3 miles nonh of Portland, minutes to L.L.Bean). Relaxed cabin atmosphere. Featuring fresh Maine seafood, aged Iowa beef; mesquite grilling. Teriyaki steak and grilled salmon, as well as "House Favorites." Lounge opens at 4 p.m. daily. Serving dinner at 5 p.m. Children's menu available. Visa, Mastercard, and American Express accepted. Reservations available for parties of 5 or more. 781-477 1.

Regina. At the Schooners Inn, Ocean Avenue, Kennebunkpon. The perfect choice for an elegant, world-class dining experience. Regina combines the freshest ingredients, creative preparation, artful presentation, courteous service, and magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean and Kennebunk River within an intimate atmosphere. Classic menu selections plus unique creations with a European flair. Reservations are suggested for lunch and dinner (served Tuesday - Sarurday) and for Sunday brunch. Convenient riverside parking for restaurant, inn, and retail shops.

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