Maine Soul

FOOD

BY BEATRICE H. COMAS

oYOU like Maine Clam Chowder, not "Rhode Island" and certainly not "Manhattan"? When you order clam chowder, you are really ladling into history. The first clam chowder was invented by Breton sailors shipwrecked on the Maine coast. The sailors gathered all the ship's stores they could salvage, including crackers~salt pork, and potatoes, and threw them into an iron pot calleqa "chaudiere." Then, clams dug lip from the beach were thrown into the pot. Thus was born the felicitous mix of Maine clams and potatoes.

If you crave clams in a different guise, you can't go more native than to rush to one of clam shacks dotting the coast from York Beach to Bar Harbor, many with cutesy names like "EI's," "The Clam Shack," or "The Clam Shell." These deep-fried mollusks won't have time to cool between the plastic box and your mouth if they are prepared as they should, be. This same type of eatery doubtless offers clam cakes, another Maine treat that too often proves disappointing. A heavy clam cake is not pleasant eating.

Everyone knows there's nothing sweeter than wild Maine blueberries. Those little berries are world famous and much in demand in Japan, which is developing a penchant for Maine blueberry muffins.

Blueberry Cake may be even older, and one of the best desserts

t .

Best Sausages In The World ...

In Good Maine Food, hiding behind his niece's - author Marjorie Mosser's - culinary expertise, Kenneth Roberts bellows, as is his wont, another revelatory pronouncement: .....in Auburn, Maine, there is a packing house that makes sausages - little sausages - that I believ~ to be without peer. ''I'm as sure as I am of anything that those little Auburn sausages are more delicious and made of vastly better materials than the little Munich sausages whose reputation (has) spread all over the world ... "Penley's little link sausages is the name, made by the E. W. Penley Company of Auburn, Maine; and this encomium has been neither solicited nor paid for ... The sole reason for this enthusiastic mention of Penley's sausages is my belief that they are the best in the world .....

But surprise, Kenneth! Your little darlings, it seems, were being made all the while for Penley's by The E. W. Mailhot Co. of Lewiston/Auburn, as closer research might have shown you, according to a proud Roger Mailhot, owner. Assuredly delicious, the selfsame sausages "we provided to E. W. Penley for over 30 years -the 19405 through the 1960s," says Mailhot. "We're under our own label now," Mailhot continues, and are indeed worth a tasty try.

ever made is a steamed blueberry pudding with vanilla or lemon sauce.

Maine is as good a place as any to search for authentic strawberry shortcake. The June Bon Appetit Magazine printed a letter from a woman asking if there is an official description of this dessert. She had been served a hard roll topped with a dab of vanilla ice cream and a spoonful of berry topping. "Does this sound right to you?" she asked. I hope no such monstrosity would ever be offered a visitor to the Pine Tree State. Strawberry Shortcake has been around since

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CONIMNY

the 1800s, and Maine cooks are still baking it, not with spongecake shells and aerosol whip, but with "short" biscuit dough which has a tender, crumbly texture.

Many food items we crave on returning to Maine might not appeal to other returnees, and could even seem peculiar. A friend of mine, a Maine native living in California, always carries fresh Maine crab meat, Jordan's hot dogs, B&M baked beans, Nissen's doughnuts, and Amato's Italian sandwiches on her return flights.

An Italian sandwich is a relative of the grinder, the submarine, the Po' Boy, the hoagy, the hero, the torpedo ... and while variations of this Italian-American sandwich are endless, the original local Italian sandwich was a small Italian loaf, split lengthwise, and fined - in layers down the length of the roll - with sliced ham and/or salami, cheese, tomatoes; onions, green pepper strips, and pieces or halves of ripe oily olives. A shake of salt and a drizzle of olive oil completed it. It was next rolled in waxed paper, then cut in two if requested. There is quite a knack to the slicing and layering.

In 1985, the average American ate two doughnuts a day, and nowhere has this invention of Dutch Pilgrims, called olie Koeken or oil cakes, been more appreciated than in our native state. The doughnut's hole was created by a Maine sea captain named Gregory, whose mother often baked for the ship's crew. One of her specialties was a fried cake. She was afraid that all the dough would not bake, so she put a nut in the center of each dough cake. Because of the nuts, she called her creation "doughnut." Nuts were expensive and difficult to obtain, so the next time her son was in port, he had a tinsmith make up a circular cutter with a small hole in the center. Hence, a doughnut with a hole. Maine's place in the Doughnut Hall of Fame has been secured by another Maine resident, Stella Young (now of Old Orchard Beach), who was the original Doughnut Girl of World War I. As a Salvation Army lassie, she introduced a taste of home to American doughboys serving in France.

A Maine plain doughnut is not overly sweet and has a subtle taste of nutmeg, making it an excellent accompaniment to morning beverages. Every farm pantry had its doughnut crock, and an empty one made an irate husband.

You who read this may take me to task for omitting some of your favorities, but to include them all would be akin to writing a cookbook. No, I have not forgotten

Maine corn chowder, rhubarb pie,

MacIntosh apples, sweet cider, maple syrup, smelts, mackerel ... nor have I forgotten there is much more to the history of Maine food . than the recipes offered here. A small book entitled Maine Coastal

Cooking contains Downeast recipes dating from 1664. Because

Maine has long been lobster country, a large section of this book pertains to them. Remembering that the letter "s" appears as "f," here are directions To keep Lob/ten a quarter 0/ a year very good: "T ake them being OOild as aforefaid wrap them in coude rags having been fteeped in brine and bury them in a cellar in fome fea-fand pretty deep." It gives one a sense of continuity to read that a Colonial woman with her cookbook beside her read how to fry, stew, boil, stuff, broil, and bake these crustaceans in much the same way as they are prepared today. There is one difference; they were so plentiful that hosts apologized to their guests for serving them.

Continued on page 42

'Secret' Scotch Cookie Recipe

1 Y2 cups sugar 1 cup shortening Y2 cup molasses 1 egg 3 Y2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 Y2 teaspoons soda 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon mace % cup milk

"Cream sugar, shortening, molasses and egg. Siftdry ingredients and beat in, along with the milk. Drop by tablespoonsful onto greased sheets. Press down lightly with floured glass. Bake. but do not overbake."

Submitted by Jean Dyer. Note: Thisrecipe comes courtesy of the Chebeague Island ParentsAssociation and appears in Chebeague Island Cooking. an outstanding guide to ancient Maine cuisine and available when you send $8. to Sheila Putnam. Box 135, Chebeague Island. Maine 04017.

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Restaurants

Restaurants are listed as a courtesy in this section as space allows. To guarantee inclusion of your listing for the next year, call Portland Monthly Classifieds, 578 Congress Street, Portland, Maine 04101. (207) 775-4339.

Alberta's. 21 Pleasant Street, Portland. Also 27A Forest Avenue, Portland. All the selections from Alberta's ever-changing menu are cooked to order over their mesquite charcoal grill. Steaks, seafood, and butterflied leg of lamb are accompanied by homemade soups, breads, and desserts, including "Death by Chocolate." Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch. Major credit cards. 774-5408.

The BIMeMoon. 425 Fore Street, Portland. Portland's new jazz club restaurant fearures Ie jazz hot nightly as well as an entertaining dinner menu. A strong addition to Portland's nightlife. 871-0663.

Boone's. Custom House Whad, Portland. They've been serving an extraordinary range of seafood since 1898. Portland memorabilia and antiques are displayed in the heavy-beamed dining room, and there are nightly specials in addition to the extensive menu. Lunch and dinner daily, all major credit cards. 774-5725.

Channel Crossing. 23 Front Street, South Portland. An elegant restaurant with an elegant view of Portland from its perch on the water. Teriyaki sirloin is a favorite, as is "Fresh Catch," the very freshest fish available each day. Lunch and dinner. Sunday brunch, major credit cards. 799-5552.

Dock Fore. 336 Fore Street, Portland. Daily specials in this cozy Old Port setting include burgers, quiches, soups, chow~er~, fresh fish, steamers, and mussels. Lunch and dinner. 772-8619.

The Madd Apple Cafe. 23 Forest Avenue, Portland. An intimate American bistro located in the Portland Performing Arts Center. Offering a changing menu; specialties include Carolina Chopped Pork BBQ, Shrimp Remoulade, tournedos Marchand du Yin, and Bananas Foster. Lunch and dinner. Major credit cards. 774-9698.

Moose Crossing DinnerhoMse. Coastal U.S. Route I,

Falmouth (3 miles north of Portland, minutes to L.L.Bean). Relaxed cabin atmosphere. Fearuring fresh Maine seafood, aged Iowa beef; mesquite grilling. Teriyaki steak and grilled salmon, as well as "House Favorites." Lounge opens at 4 p.m. daily. Serving dinner at 5 p.m. Children's menu available. Visa, Mastercard, and American Express accepted. Reservations available for parties of 5 or more. 781-4771.

The 13~ker's T~ble.1.'\4 Fore Street. Portland. Relaxed bistro beneath the Old Port Bakehouse offers diverse European woking - veal. fish, tournedos, homemade chowders. soups. and stews. including bouillabaisse. are available, as well as fresh breads and pastries from upstairs. Local artists exhibit occasionally. Major credit cards. 775-0)0).

CaIe A lwa yr. 47 Middle Street, Portland. One of Portland's newest restauranrs. Features strong. ambitious menu and a romanric atmosphere. 771-9399. Tony Roma's - A Place For Ribs. 671 Main Street, South

Portland (U.S. 1 at Exit 7 extension). A restaurant of casual decor, genuine cordiality, and reasonable prices, serving its famous Baby Back Ribs, judged Number One Ribs in America at the 1987 National Rib-off. Other menu items include fish, steak, barbecued shrimp on a skewer, and onion rings served in a loaf. Daily luncheon specials. Takeout menu available. Open 7 days a week, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. MC, Visa, Amex. 761-4211.

Thai Garden. 1 City Center, Portland. This outstanding new restaurant has risen immediately to the top of Portland's distinguished list of Oriental restaurants. Original, exciting tastes, induding Thai beer, in a sophisticated setting. 772-1118. Chebeague Island Cooking on SCotch Cookies: "These were favorite cookies to all who remember Harold Todd's Cushman's Bakery wagon. Cher beague cooks longed for the secret formula. but it was Jean Dyer who took the initiative to contact the Harris Baking Company who had bought Cushman's and along with it the SCotch Cookie recipe."

RECIPES

Maine-Style Fish Chowder

% Ib, salt pork, diced 2 onions, diced 4 cups raw potatoes 1 to 2 cups fish stock or water 2 pounds haddock. cod. or cusk fillets 1 teaspoon salt % teaspoon pepper 2 to 3 cups milk 2 12-ounce cans evaporated milk

Fry the salt pork until golden. Remove and reserve. Cook onions in the fat from the salt pork. until translucent, but do not brown. Add potatoes, stock. or water. Place fish on top of potatoes and add seasonings. Cover. Bring to a boil and simmer until potatoes are tender and fish fiakes easily. Add the whole milk and evaporated milk. Heat through but do not boll. When stirring. try to avoid breaking the fish. which should remain In small chunks. SCatter "pork scraps" across the top and dot chowder with butter, if desired. Serves 6.

Dandelion Greens

4 quarts freshly picked dandelion greens % lb. fat salt pork 8 small potatoes salt to taste

Wash and remove all grit from dandelions. Remove discolored or broken outer leaves without breaking plants apart. Wash three times in lukewarm water. sloshing plants up and down so dirt will settle before lifting greens out.

In a large kettle bring 1 "h quarts of water to a boil. When It reaches a rolling boil. put greens in and add salt pork cut into "h-Inch cubes. Cover kettle and let contents simmer gently for 1 "h hours. During last half hour, add peeled whole potatoes. To serve. lift greens, shaking off liquid. and lay them in a serving bowl. Place potatoes on top and spoon out salt pork for gam ish,Serve the vinegar. if desired. Serves 4.

Creamed Finnan Haddie

1"h pounds finnan haddie Milk and water to cover 4 tablespoons flour 7 tablespoons margarine 3 cups milk salt and pepper to taste 4 medium cooked potatoes, diced 2 harckooked egges. sliced 4 slices bread. cubed 3 tablespoons margarine

Soak the f1nnan haddle for 30 minutes in half water, half milk to cover. Bring to a boil over low heat for 15 minutes. Drain. cool. and flake fish. In a saucepan blend flour and the 7 tablespoons margarine to make a paste. Cook over low heat and gradually add the milk and seasonings. Add fish, potatoes, and eggs. Pour into a large caSSEr role. Cube the bread and saute in the 3 tablespoons of margarine. Place on top of the casserole and bake at 350 degrees F.for 25 to 30 minutes. Serves 6.

Ed Muskie's Clam Cakes

2 cups fresh chopped clams 2 eggs. beaten

"h

cup clam juice "h cup cracker crumbs 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt % teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon sugar

RemoVe gastric glands from clams and chop. Drain. reserving the clam water or juice. Combine eggs and juice. Roll crackers and measure "h cup crumbs into a bowl. Mix and sift flour. baking powder, salt pepper, and sugar over the crumbs. Add egg-clam juice mixture and stir In the clams. Let stand for a few minutes for crumbs to absorb the liquids. If. needed. add more juice. Drop by large spoonfuls into frying pan of hot fat. Cook until golden brown on each side. Serve immer diately. Serves 4.

Genuine Strawberry Shortcake

2 quarts fresh strawberries Sugar to taste 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 teaspoons baking powder

"h

teaspoon salt 1 "h tablespoons sugar 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter or margarine %cupmilk 1 cup heavy cream. whipped

Rinse,hull. and slice strawbe1Ties.Tosswith sugar and set aside. Sift dry ingredients together twice. Cut in "h cup butter. Add milk gradually until dough iseasy to handle, Tum onto a lightly floured board and pat g~ntly. Roll out to *-Inch thicknesses and make 1'2 3-inch rounds. Melt 1 tablespoon butter. Arrange 6 rounds on a greased baking sheet and brush with butter. Top each biscuit with another biscuit. Bake in preheated 450degree F.oven for 12 minutes, oruntil tops are light brown. Remove from oven, and split biscuits. Spoon some berries over bottom half, Cover with top half. more berries, and whipped cream. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Maine Blueberry Cake

1/3 cup butter 1 cup sugar 2 eggs "h cup sour milk 2 scant cups flour 1 teaspoon soda 1 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon salt

1"h cups fresh blueberries, floured

Cream butter and sugar together. Add eggs and beat well. Add sour milk. 51ftflour. soda, nutmeg. and salt and add to egg mixture. Blend at low speed until well-mixed. Add blueberries. Pour batter into a 9 x 9-inch cake pan and bake in a 35O-degree F.' oven about 50 minutes or until done.

3 tablespoons melted butter 1 ~ cups sugar 2eggs 1 cup buttermilk 4 cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder ~ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon nutmeg ~ teaspoon cinnamon

Combine first tour ingredients and beat until light. Sift dry Ingredients and add to buttermilk mixture. stirring Y.IeII. Refrigerate for several hours or ovemlght. Pour onto floured board and knead until smooth. Roll lA-inch thick and cut out with doughnut cutter. Fry at 380-degrees F. on thermometer. Tum once. Makes 36 doughnuts.

Downeast Clam Pie

3 Maine potatoes 1 quart clams 4 ounces salt pork 1 small onIOn '.;.

1 tablespoon flour PIe cNSt for tv..o-crust pie (9 Inch)

Boll potatoes In thelr.Sklns until almost tender. Peel and cube. Wasli and grind clams. saving juice and some bellies. Cube salt pork and cook slowly until golden brown. Add chopped onion. StIr in flour. then potatoes and clams. Mix Ingredients. Pour Into pie shell In 9-inch pie plate. Put top crust on. seal and bake In 425-degree F.oven for 20 minutes. Lower oven heat to 350-degrees F. and bake another 25 minutes.

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