Cuisine Review: Hugo's By Dennis Gilbert

WHAT MAKES A BISTRO A BISTRO?

In anticipation of visiting Hugo's Portland Bistro, we consulted Webster's Unabridged and were led to expect an "unpretentious" and "out-of-the-way" restaurant or wineshop marked by "an atmosphere of extreme casualness."

Aside from the particulars, the definition in its general sense suggests a watering hole where patrons can incidentally get something to eat. Finally, the terms carry the connotation of an establishment with a certain European flair. To take the semantic approach to restaurant reviewing, let us stir up the words just a bit with an eye toward determining just how "bistroic" Hugo's really is.

F' Irst, " out-o f-the-way ,i .'no Ionger very accurately describes the easternmost block of Middle Street, which has become something of a restaurant row. Hugo's is not caught in the thick press of the Exchange/Fore Street service business, but it stands on the edge of it, conveniently enough located so that Portland patrons don't have to travel great distances or grope through unfamilar quarters to find it.

In regards to its "casualness," "",extreme IS too strong, but " unpretentious" is just right. The atmosphere is one of casual unpretentiousness.

That Hugo's is a bar that also happens to serve food is all wrong-the cuisine here is in no wayan incidental consideration. .As for the European flair, it's there and it's Irish.

Hugo's is not only an easy find, but a pleasant one as well. It is a very comfortable place. The space isopen, well-lighted, roomy, quirkily decorated with scarcities and oddities, and in every way conducive to lighthearted communion with friends. Wide-open dining rooms often have the feel of commons utilitarianism, but here the concept succeeds both in charm and in purpose. Declining the option of crowding the tables, the proprietors provide sufficient territory for you to enclose yourself within your own illusion of privacy. At the same time, the awareness of others

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at the edges of your attention reminds you, pleasantly, that you are here to dine.

This roominess also promotes good service. After. our evening at Hugo's, I questioned a number of restaurant-wise acquaintances who also had dined there, and almost to a person they responded that what they enjoyed most was the service. Judging from our experience, I would have to agree the service is better than average. No-even better than that. The maitre d'/manager is an energetic and careful host, observant, quick, and most hospitable. And our waitress of the evening was clearly his equal. She seemed to have no trouble taking care of her full share of the

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other appetizers, would make a satisfying light supper. In any case, there was no question that the selection to be made was the kidneys; sauteed and served with a white wine-and-mustard butter sauce, they were excellent.

Our entrees included a fillet of sole with ginger and scallions; pork tenderloin with apricots; sauteed filet of beef (a perfect rare); and a chicken breast stuffed with leeks and shrimp. All of these were interesting and well-prepared, but what really makes the eating part of dining here a treat are the dishes we normally associate with Irish cookery: the kidneys, a deliciously musty whole wheat soda bread, the creamy scalloped potatoes

dining room while simultaneously allowing us to feel we were in some subtle way her privileged guests. These two do their jobs with what might be described as a restrained amiability, apparently enjoying your company but acknowledging foremost that you are the ones paying for the good time.

The menu at Hugo's is divided into thirds: roughly a half-dozen each of appetizers, entrees, and desserts. We started outwith the potted crab, the (unfortunately named hut tasty) chicken fingers, a wild mushroom risotto, and the sauteed lamb kidneys. Powerful as itwas with the flavor of the mushrooms, risotto seems an odd choice, more starchy than stimulating, but perhaps the thinking here is that this, along with one of the served with the entrees, and a simply-but-Iovingly prepared Irish coffee for dessert.

If you are a dessert lover, Hugo's is a good place to keep in mind. The list is long, and, with rare exceptions, each of the items is preceded proudly with that promising epithet, "homemade" -strawberry-rhubarb and pecan pies, kiwi ice cream, sherry trifle, etc.

One last point: the unpretentious, bistro casualness of Hugo's applies to price as well. On the whole, Portland restaurants of comparable quality are at least slightly more expensive and more than a few of them noticeably less generous.

Dennis Gilbert's restaurant reviews appear in each issue of Portland Monthly.