Portland Monthly Magazine July/August 1992

InviteAFamous MaineFamilyOver ForDessert

Now’syourchancetosaveonbrandnamefashionjewelry,pewter,crystal, watches,clocks,cameras,luggageandmore.Allmerchandiseistop quality.Earringsfrom$3.95to$29.95,discontinueditemsfoundin theiroriginalpackaging,manyunopenedwithmanufacturers’ warranties.Sowhileyou’reenjoyingthesights,whynot enjoyourbargains!We’reopen10-5Mon.thruSat., and1to6onSundays.Forfurtherinformation callusat(207)338-5805,orcomeandvisitusat The Balfour Factory Outlet forsavingsthatwillhaveyousingingintheaisle.

THE OPERA HOUSE

We’re celebratingour firstanniversary asaMaineline toEurope.

Hapag-Lloyd’sWeeklyFeederServicetoPortland,Maineisayearold.Andour closer-to-homePortlandberthhassignificantlyreducedshippingtimeandcostfor NorthernNewEngland’sexportersandimporters.

Ourcustomersarealsobenefitingfromtheenhancedlevelofserviceprovided bytherecentlyopenedHapag-Lloyd(America) regionalofficeinBoston.Alongwithourfeeder servicetoPortland,thisexpansionreflectsthe growingimportanceoftheNewEnglandMarketto theworldeconomy-andtoHapag-Lloyd.

Hapag-Lloyd(America),Inc.,313CongressStreet,Boston,MA02210.(617)261-0600;Fax:(617)261-7499.

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worldsofwriterswhohavecontributed tothemagazinelikeDanDomench, FrederickBarthelme,NormaStoop, Ken Rosen, even Edna St. Vincent Millay.

It’saclosedlooprecordingthatcuts offat10p.m.andwakesupat8a.m.We haven’twrittenagrantforityet.It’sjust somethingwedecidedtodowithMad HorseTheatrebecausewewantedto tryit.Peoplewalkingbystopand listen,sometimessitdownonthe benchoutsidetheoffice.

AlfrescoFiction

PassacrossthefrontofourPort¬ landMonthlyeditorialofficeson 578CongressStreetandyou’ll encounteraninterestinglittle burbleofsound.It’snew.Fic¬ tion!Someofficesputshrubsouton thesidewalk,andwe’retryingstories, forstarterssomeofthebestfiction we’vehadthepleasuretoprintoverthe pastsevenyears.

Thestoriesarerecordingsbythree outstandingactorsfromMadHorse TheatreCo.:DeborahHall,Michael Rafkin,andDonaldJellerson.These wonderfuldramaticreadingsenable theactorstopullyouintotheprivate

Andonsomedays,that’senoughfor us,toseebusinessescomingouton thesidewalkslikethealfrescodining offeredbyRaffles,Abraham’s,and FoodForThought,andtheentertain¬ ing,curvingtreesinfrontofHarding’s BookStore.

“Literatureisnewsthatstaysnews,” wroteEzraPound,andthereactionof peopleinfrontofourofficeisproofof that.Thisfictionoutreachproject, wherewordscomealiveonthestreet level,issomeofthemostfunwe’ve ever had. Thank-you, Mad Horse! You’reinvitedtostopbyandstepinto ourpagessometime.

ClayHillRebuttal

Thenumerousoutragedpatronsof ClayHillFarmwhohavecontactedus overthepastfewdayshavepersuaded ustorebutMr.Mickalide’sreviewof ourrestaurantinyourJuneissue.We immediately questioned your re¬ viewer’scredentialswhenhemen¬ tionedthatourartichokedip“tasted stronglyofcheddarcheese,”when indeed,thereisnocheddarwhatso¬ everinthedip,merelyahintofparmesancheese.Thecrabcakes,which yourreviewerfoundtobe“spicyand heavilyfilledoutwithbreadorcracker meal,”M.E.Curley,afreelancereview¬ erfromthePortlandSundayTelegram, foundto“containjustasmidgenof breadfillerandsimplesalt,pepper& dillseasoning.”M.E.Curleyalsofound theHollandaisetoppingtobe“silky andperfectlybalanced,”whileMr. Mickalidefoundittobe“wateryand tooyellow.”Our“LimousinSupreme” PrimeRib,averyexpensivetypeof beefbecauseitisraisedwithnoster¬ oids,hormones,antibiotics,oraddi¬ tivestofeed,wasmalignedbyMr. Mickalideas“lackingtendernessand flavor.”However,thissametypeof beefwonClayHillFarmthe“Best RoastBeefontheSeacoast”awardby SeacoastLifeMagazine.Asforour extensivewinelistbeing“expensive,”' weoffer55differentselectionsofwine at$20orlessperbottle;andasforour overallpricesbeing“stratospheric,” wefoundwhenperusingthecurrent menusofourcompetitorshereinthe Ogunquitareathat,althoughwefea¬ tureanaward-winningchef,andoffer livepianoentertainment,valetparking, award-winningservice,and30acresof beautifullylandscapedgrounds,we werewithin$.50or$1ofourcompeti¬ torsinthisareaonalmosteveryitem.

DonnaLewis Ogunquit

JeffBannister

Yourarticle(April1992)wascer¬ tainlyoneofthenicesteverdoneon Jeff.Everyonewasdelighted.Many thanksandallmygoodwishes.

Marianne(Bannister)Pipher Ellsworth

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■

Maine's City Magazines

Established1985 VolumeVil,NumberV,July/August

Colin SargentEditor&Publisher

Nancy D. SargentArtDirector

Kirk Reynolds ManagingEditor

Johanna H anaburgh CopyEditor

Elizabeth Hancock Advertising

John Rawlings Advertising

David Garrison Advertising

Richard B. Nest Advertising

John Bjork Controller,(207)797-92S7

Katie Gilbert Intern

ContributingEditor:ElizabethPeavey;StaffPhotographerTrancis DiFalco

Founders: Colin And Nancy Sargent

ThismagazineisprintedonMaine-madepaperpro¬ ducedbyChampionInternational,Bucksport,Maine. LaserCoverSeparationsandimageassemblybyCham¬ plainColorService,(802)658-6088.Coverprintedby FranklinPrinting,(207)778-4801.

PORTLANDMonthlyMagazineispublishedbyColin andNancySargent.578CongressStreet.Portland.ME 04101.Allcorrespondenceshouldbeaddressedto578 CongressStreet,Portland,ME04101.

AdvertisingOffice:578CongressStreet.Portland.ME 04101(207)775-4339.

Subscriptions:InsideU.S.:$20lorIyear.$32for2 years,$40for3years.OutsideU.S.:add$6.

BillingQuestions:IIyouhavequestionsregarding advertisinginvoicingandpayments,callJohnBjork, Controller,at797-9267.

Newsstandcoverdate:July/August1992.publ.July 1992,Vol.7,No.5.copyright1992.PORTLANDMonthly Magazineismailedatthird-classmailralesinPort¬ land,ME04101.(ISSN:0887-5340).Opinionsex¬ pressedinarticlesarethoseofauthorsanddonot representeditorialpositionsofPORTLANDMonthly Magazine.Responsibleonlylorthatportionofany advertisementwhichisprintedincorrectly,andas compensationwewillrunacorrectioninthefollowing issue.Nothinginthisissuemaybereprintedinwhole orinpartwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublish¬ ers.Submissionswelcome,butwetakenoresponsibil¬ ityforunsolicitedmaterials.

PORTLANDMonthlyMagazineispublished10times annuallybyColinandNancySargent,578Congress Street,Portland,withnewsstandcoverdatesofWinter¬ guide.February/March.April,May.Summerguide, July/August.September,October.November,and December.

Jewell Gallery ispleasedtoofferthis beautiful Limited Edition print from a watercolour by Bill Jewell. A generous portion of the proceeds are received by the Preble Street Resource Center for Portland’s homeless. We would like to thank our co-sponser, Public Cable, for their generous support.

JewellGalleryalsopresents

•finerealistandimpressionistlandscapeoilsandwatercolorsbyBillJewell, PaulBlackandotherlocalartists

s*exquisitehand-paintedstainedglassworksbyartisticteam,BillJewelland BertWeiss

•limitedcollectionoffineantiquefurniture

“Thelastrealplaceonearth,1992.”ThePortholeRestaurant,onCustomHouseWharfinPortland,doesn'tserve“spinnakerspecials”tothe “gulls"and“buoys,"butyoucangetsomerealgoodanonymouswhitefishthereonFridayandSaturdaynights,allyoucaneat,aswellas livemusic.Itgoesrighttotheheartofthedifferencebetween"nautical"and“nautical-motif.”

Zen And The Porthole’s

All-You-CanEatFishFry

Measuringyourlifewithshovels,notcoffeespoons.

ByElizabethPeavey

Everyonceinawhileyoustumble uponsomethingthatissoun¬ ique,socompletelywhatitis— neitherslicked-backnorsoupedup—thatitseemstobecomean instantanachronism.Inotherwords, it’swickedquaint.

ThePortholeRestaurantissucha place.Andifyouliketomeasureout

yourlifewithshovelsratherthanwith coffeespoons,yououghttotrytheir ‘‘allyoucaneat”fishfryonFridaysand Saturdays.

ThePortholeisafisherman’sjoint, intrinsicallynautical—asopposedto thoserestaurants.withanautical ‘motif,’placesthatoffer“spinnaker specials;”havedresseduptheirin¬

nardstoresembleanythingfroma shantytocaptain’squarters;and,most telling,marktheirrestroomdoorswith “gulls”and“buoys.”Thatain’tquaint, it’scunnin’.Andbesides,fisherfolk don’tsetfootintheseplaces.

ThePortholeistherealthing,un¬ touchedbytrendsinthebusiness—no brick,nofern,nocargrillbusting throughawall,notonegeometricwall sconce.Nope.Justlinoleumtables andchromechairs,alongluncheon counterwithswivelstools.Thehigh ceiling,largewindows,andbrightblue wallsmakeitacheerful,airyspot.And there’snauticaljunkaround:amuralof aclippership;asailorpoemburntinto apieceofwood;snapshotsofvarious regularstapedtothewall,andamid them,anobituaryclippedfromthe newspaper.Thisisdecoration,flotsam¬ jetsamstyle.

ThePortholeenjoysastrangere¬ nowninPortland.It’soneofthose placesthat’ssoretro,it’ship.I’vehada handfulofblearybreakfaststhere, alwayswiththesameperson—anoutof-townfriendwhoembracestheno¬ tionofthenobilityofthecommon man.“This,”he’dsay,slappinghis handonthewobblytable,slopping coffee,“isthelastrealplaceonearth.” Whetherornotitisthelastreal place,itiscertainlygenuine.Many localfishermen,particularlythose

wholiveontheirboats,callithome. It’salsobecomealightingplaceforthe bohemianset.(Onesupposesthere aren'tmanyotherplacesagroupofsix

dollar,butawhopping$3.50.(Ifyou’re feelingextravagant,youcanalsohave theshrimpfryfor$4.50)Weorderour dinnersandwatchthebandsetup.

This,too,isagoodsign,Iamtold.With theaidofketchup,tartarandcocktail sauce,Iplowthroughtwopieceswith¬ outpause.Withtheaidofanother orsounder-agedyouthscangather, drinkwater,smokecigarettesandtake uptablespaceinthecitywhenthesun goesdown.)

SoIhearaboutthefishfryfroma friend—“It’sallyoucaneat,andit costssomethinglikeadollar.”SoI

Ihavebeenprimingmysystemall dayforthegastronomicorgythatis abouttoensue.Thefishdujouriscod andsole.ThatIdonotcareforfried fishisincidental.Iamonamission andamdeterminedthatIwilleatallI can,until,whatseemsaminutelater,I

Geary’s,Iamintomythird,when suddenly,1feelaweirdquiveringbe¬ hindmyeyesthattravelsdownmy spineandbackupthroughmyinnards. Enough.Ilowermyforkandpushmy plateaway.Wearealittledisappointed thatsecondswouldnotbeordered. decidetojoltmyarteriesandgiveita

seethreeplatessurfacefromthekit-

But,theentertainmentisaboutto go.Igrabtwooftheleast health-consciousfriendsIcan find and head down to the waterfront.

After Commercial Street yieldsnoparkingspaces,we venture down Custom House Wharf. The brave hearts I travelwithareundauntedby themyriad“noparking”and “noparken”signsthatlinethe walls.Wefindanarrowslip beyondthesignsandpark. ThoughthetrendyOldPortis onlyablockaway,youknow instantlythatyou’reinanother world.Thesaltsmacksyouin thefacetheinstantyoustep outofthecar.Theairalso carriesanassortmentofother scents,odors,stinks,andsten¬ ches,dependingonthewind andtheweather.It’sthekind ofairthatmakesomepound

begin.Thelightsaredoused, candlesarebroughttothe tables, and the Christmas lightsthatframethewharfside windowarelit.Et,voila,the fishfryistransformedintoa miniFolkCity.

Jeff Aumuller, a saltylookingfellowcladinafish¬ erman’scapandsweater,boat shoesandrust-cloredtrou¬ serstakesthe“stage.”With himisJohnTayloronstand¬ up bass, who adds harmony andinbetweensongsthumps outchordsanddeliversaTom Waits-ianstylepattertothe audience.Theetwoarejoined byarevolvingassortmentof sit-inmusicians,including DocRogersonfiddle. Thesongsaremostlysea shanties—you know, songs aboutlifeonthebrinydeepin theirchestsandbreathedeeply,and othersgag.

ourplatesloomnearer,Ipicturethe brontosaurusribdinnerthattipsover theFlinstone’scaratthebeginningof eachshow.1holdontothetableasshe setsourplatesdown.

chen.Whentheysay“allyoucaneat,”I didn’tthinktheymeantallatonce.As whicheveryreferencetoacityend withtheword“town,”i.e.:PortlandIt’saround8p.m.andthingsare prettyquiet.Noproblemfindinga table.There’sacouplenexttous;a groupoffishermengatherarounda tableclutteredwithBudbottlesand coffeecups.Anoldergentlemanslides intoaseatinthecorner,totinga backpackthesizeofasmallrefriger¬ ator.

Awaitresseventuallyglidesbyour table,looksmomentarilystartledto seeus,andthenreturnswiththe placemat/menus.Sheasksifwe’ve everbeenherebefore."Notfordinner" isthecollectivereply.Sheexplains thatthemenuisn't'really'available andhalf-heartedlydragsherpencil acrosstheitemswemaynotorder,as sheabsentlywatchestheaforementioedgroupofhipstersfilein.Lestwe appeartobesomesortofposeurs slumming,weletherknowwe’rehere forthefishfry,whichdoesnotcosta

Fourpiecesofbreaded,friedfishthe sizeofJethroBodine’shandarriveona pileoffries.Stunnedbytheamountof foodbeforeus,weaskoursecond waitress(ourfirstisnowengrossedin conversationwithaboyatthecoun¬ ter)ifpeopleeverorderseconds.Oh yes.Seconds.Thirds,fourths.“There’s thisoneman—he’shuge—he’llorder fifths.”

Thisthoughtfrightensme.Iamnot knownformydaintyappetite,butthis is‘alot’offood.Allright,heregoes.1 plungemyforkintothetoppieceand breakitopen.Thecod/soleisflaky andmoist.Thisisagoodsign,my friendsinformme.Itakeabite,andit tastesmorelikefishthanfryolator.

town,KeyWest-town,NewYorkCity¬ town.Buttherearealso“seatune gospels;”anodtoJimmyBuffetand John Prine; a few standards—“Red RiverValley”and"SatinDoll;”and Aumullerevendoesabitofyodeling.

I’mnomusiccritic,buttheseguys areprettygood.Aumullerhasastong, clearvoice,andtheplayingischeerful andlivelyforwhatseemstobeno morethananimpromptujamsession. Wemovecloserandeventuallygab backandforthwiththeplayers.It’sall veryfriendlyandfun.

Between sets we spot a pinball machine in the comer—a decrepit, dusty-lookingthing—butinviting,none¬ theless.Iliketothinkofmyselfasabit ofapinballaficionado,andIcanattest thatthisisthestiffest,mostboring machineI’veeverplayed.Ithasallthe giveofatombstone;theflippershave thespringofsoggydillspears,the

bumperstheresiliencyoffreshdonuts. Wetoilawayforthreegamesandscore about1,000collectivepoints.Wehave ablast.

Whenwefinish,weseethatAumulleriswaiting.(TellmeMadonnaisso polite...)Westayforonemoreset,and thenthevoiceoffriedcodpastspeaks: “Gohome.Rest.Digest.Heal.”Webid farewelltoournewfriendsandheadto ourbedsforanightoffishydreams.

ImustconfessIhavespentmore happenin’,palate-pleasingnightsin Portland,butmyFridaynightfishfry wassomuchgood,cleanfunthat1 can’twaituntilOctoberwhenI’ve finisheddigestingsoIcangobackfor more.

Nathaniel BowditchLives?

Thegentlemanwiththeghostly, nauticalnameisonthetele¬ phone.“Onethingyoucansay about the Bowditch Family,” sayswell-spoken,energeticNath¬ anielBowditch,37,isthat“therehas alwaysbeenanexpectationtodowhat you’rebestatdoing,whatyou’reproud todo,tobeyourownperson.”Indeed, thisisNathanielBowditch’sgreatgreat greatgrandson,andyes,hisnamesake forebearisexactlytheNathanielBow¬ ditch(1773-1838)knowntotheworld asitsincomparablyfamousmathema¬ tician,astronomer,andnavigator. NathanielBowditchtheelderis mostfamousforwriting The New AmericanPracticalNavigator, pub¬ lishedin1802andstillcherishedby sailorstoday.Dubbed“TheSeaman’s Bible,”itremains,withafewupdates,

ExclusivelyNanniesplacesfull-,part-time,live-inandday¬ timenannies.Weprovidecompletereferencecheckspriorto placement,soyouwillbeassuredtheconfidencethatyourchild issafe.ExclusivelyNanniesisanaffiliateplacementagencyof KoalaChildKareCenter,Westbrook,Maine,anorganizationthat hasbeenservingthecommunityforovereightyears.

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Ourserviceandexperienceoffersyoutheprotectionyoudeserve. Callustoday.

thecreationofitsoriginalauthoranda centralreferenceintheU.S.Navy today.

Bowditchtheyounger,originally fromMassachussetts,nowlivesin Richmond,Maine,withhiswife,Linn. ATuftsUnversitygraduate,he’sthe AssistantDirectorfortheStateOfficeof Tourism.Hehasfoundthatabout“one third”ofthepeoplehemeetsrecog¬ nizehisnameandancestor,especially thosefromNewEngland.Asdomost people,Bowditchspeaksofhisan¬ cestorwithagreatdealofhonor.He hasfoundit“nicetohavepeople respectthename”andis“proud”of hisrelation.Heenjoysgivingpublic presentationsonhisancestorbutis sometimesfrustratedbecausethereis “somuch”hewants“tosayabouthim andsolittletimetosayit.”

Bowditchexplainsthatforhisan¬ cestor,thebookwasactuallyan"in¬ terestingendeavor”whichsoonbe¬ cameatranscendentlyennoblingone. Bowditchexplainsthathisancestor’s “reallovewasmathematics.”

NathanielBowditchtheelderwas bornin1773inSalem,Massachussetts, andwaseducatedatHarvardUniver¬ sity.HelaterlivedinBostonuntilhis deathin1838.Bowditchdescribeshis ancestoras“areservedgentleman” whowas“verydevoted”tohisfamily, asdemonstratedbya.warmletterhe wrotetohisfuturedaughter-in-law whenhewasneardeath,welcoming

NathanielBowditch i father,PhilipN.Bowditch,wasoneofthreedesignerswhodevelopedthe navigationalequipmentusedintheApollospaceprogram.Above:NatBowditch,AssistantDirectorof theStateOfficeofTourism,sitsathisprogenitor'soriginalwritingdesk.

hertothefamilyandregrettingthathe would“notbearoundmuchlonger”to enjoyheraddition.Bowditchalsohad alivelyspiritanda“reputationfor beingaspeeddemon”withahorse andbuggy.Hecausedquiteastirin townwhenhetookthereignsjustafter beingfittedforasetoffalseteethand drovesoquicklyoveralargebumpin theroadthatheknockedhisfalseteeth outandpromptlyhaltedtosearchfor them.

TheearlierNathanielBowditchis nottheonlyfamilymembertomake giantstepsinthemathsandsciences. PhilipN.Bowditch,thegreatgreat grandsonoftheelderNathanielBow¬

ditch(therebythefatheroftheyounger NathanielBowditch)wasoneofthe threedesignersofthenavigational equipmentusedintheApollospace program.

Nathanielenjoyshisrelationtoa manofhisancestor’sstature.Hehas retainedmanyofhisancestor’sprec¬ iousbelongings,includingBowditch’s originalwritingdesk,navigational equipment,andfamilyportraits.The one shown on page 11, by James Frothingham,wasoneofBowditch’s favorites.Hepreferredittothefamous GilbertStuartportraitsonloanatthe Peabody Museum in Salem. H —KatieGilbert

Portland’s CivilWarMonitor

February10,1863dawnedbright andcoldoverPortlandHarbor. Itwasthesecondyearofthe American Civil War. The two dailynewspapers,thePortland Advertiser and the Daily Eastern Argus,carriedanadvertisementon theirfrontpagesfromtheU.S.Navy’s Office of Ironclads in New York callingforbidsfor"LightDraft VesselsforRiversandBays.”These particularvessels,calledLightDraft Monitors,wouldinvolvesomeofthe earliest technological and legal

U.S.Monitor Wassuc wasoneofthe15 Cascos actuallycompletedasmonitors.

KEVIN LEDUC

problems incurred by the United StatesGovernmentandprivatein¬ dustryinweaponsdevelopment. TheLightDraftplanswerebasedon theinitialUSS Monitor designedby John Ericsson. The “Tin-Can on a Shingle”wasarevolutionarydesignin navalvessels.Itwaspoweredcom¬ pletelybysteam,unlikemostother warships which used steam as an auxiliarytosails.Theshipwascovered withironplateandhadalowfree¬ board.Thisservedtoprotectthe enginesandboilersfromhostilefire butleftthemaindeckawashinheavy seas.Ithadasinglearmoredrevolving

“Finally,on July25,1865,an expectantcrowd gatheredonthehill overlookingthe LawrenceIronWorks alongtheForeRiver.”

turretwhichheldtwo11-inchsmooth¬ bore, muzzle-loading cannon, de¬ signedbyJohnDahlgren.Thesuccess ofthiswarshipagainsttheConfederate ironcladCSSVirginia,theformerUSS Merrimack, at Hampton Roads in Marchof1862ledtoconstructionof over50Monitor-typevessels.TheLight DraftMonitors,whichwereneededfor combat in the shallow rivers and soundsoftheConfederacy,wereasub¬ classofthese.

heLightDraftMonitorswereini¬ tiallydesignedwithalengthof 225feet,a45-footbeamanda displacementof1,175tons.They weretocarryone11-inchDahl¬ gren smoothbore and one 150pounderParrottriflemountedina single20-footinsidediameterturret. Thiswastobeprotectedbyeightlayers ofone-inchironplate.Thenine-foothighturretwastoppedbyapilothouse composedof10layersofone-inchiron plates.Propulsionwasprovidedby twoStimersdirectactinginclined steamengines,drivingtwonine-foot propellers.Themajordifferencefrom otherMonitorswasthelightdraftof onlysixfeet.TheoriginalMonitorhad adraftoftenfeetsixinches,whilelater typeshadbetweentenandmorethan

Lunch and Learn at the Spring Point Museum

z—'hissummer,comespendyourlunchhourwithusandexperiencefirst-hand ”/thecontinuingarchaeologicalworkontheSnowSquall,theonlysurviving JLAmerican-builtclippership.Or,youmayprefertostepbackintimeandvisit “OurSideofTown”,alookattheuniqueneighborhoodsofSouthPortlandandCape Elizabeth.Incithercase,you’llwanttopackapicniclunchandenjoyourbeautiful viewofSpringPointLightandCascoBay.

We’reopentothepublicfromMay23rdtoOctober31st,WednesdaytoSundayfrom 1p.m.to4p.m.Wearealsoopenbyappointmentatothertimes-call799-6337. Admissionis$2.00foradults,childrenunder12andmembersarefree.

SpringPointMuseumislocatedonthecampusofSouthernMaineTechnicalCollege onFortRoadinSouthPortland.

Maine Maritime Museum &Shipyard

XEnjoymodels,dioramas,marineartandexhibits

XStepbackintimeina19thcenturyshipyard-historicboats, waterfrontactivities,children’splayareas,visitingvessels

XTakeabehind-the-sceneslookatthelobsteringindustry

XExploreandpicnicon10acresofriverfrontgrounds

XEnjoylobsterbakesonThursdayeveningsstartingJuly2

XCruisetheKennebecRiver Opendaily,year-round VisittheMuseumShop 9:30a.m.-5p.m.

Admission$6adults,$2.50children,$16family. Groupratesavailable.

243 Washington Street, Bath, ME 04530 (207) 443-1316

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20feet.

Lightdraftwouldhavebeenofgreat advantageforoperationsintheshal¬ lowinletsoftheseaislands,shallow coastalrivers,harborsandsoundsof thesouth.Unfortunately,thecombin¬ ationoflightdraftandlowfreeboard allowedfornoerrorincalculationsof weight. Any mistake which would causethemonitortosinklowerinthe waterandtheshipwouldfounder.Due tothefactthatthemonitorswereanew andrevolutionarydesignconcept,de¬ signmodificationsandscheduling changeswerefrequentlychaotic.This wasprobablythereasonwhythiserror ioccurredandwasoverlookeduntilthe IlaunchingofthefirstLightDraftMon¬ itor,theUSSChimo.

“GeorgeW.Lawrence, ownerofthe LawrenceIronWorks, hadbuiltthree shipsfortheNavy. Hisshipyardon CanalStreetin Portland,Maine hadbeenin businesssincethe early1850s.”

GeorgeW.Lawrence,ownerofthe LawrenceIronWorks,hadbuiltthree shipsfortheNavy.Hisshipyardon CanalStreetinPortland,Mainehad beeninbusinesssincetheearly1850s. In1861heundertooktheconstruction ofthewoodensloop-of-warUSSKen¬ nebecioWowedbythewoodenDoubleendersUSSPontoosucandUSSAga¬ wamin1862.Withthisexperience Lawrencefeltthathecouldobtaina contractfromtheNavytoconstruct oneoftheLightDraftMonitors.

OneMonumentWay•M-F11-6,Sat.10-5,Sun.11-3•773-3481

OnJune11,1863,Lawrencesigned anagreementwithDanielN.Pickering, treasureroftheGlobeIronWorksin EastBoston,Massachusetts,tobuilda LightDraftMonitor,calledtheUSS Wassuc,fortheNavy.Theagreement stipulatedthattheGloveWorks,which wasalreadybuildingaLightDraft Monitor,wouldbuildtheMonitorthat Lawrencewouldcontractforwiththe Navy.Inreturn,Lawrencewouldre¬ ceive$10,000andwouldnothaveto

ExperienceMaine'spastandpresentat

provideanyoftheguaranteetothe Navy,norpayarequiredmanufactur¬ er’stax.Lawrencethensignedacon¬ tractfor$386,000withtheNavydespite thefactthattheFebruaryadvertise¬ menthadstatedthatbiddershadto have“suitableshopsandtools”and thattheycouldnottransfer“anycon¬ tractororder,orinteresttherein.”Ina letter,datedAugust27,Lawrenceex¬ plained that he had previously spokenwithaMr.E.McMichiel,who representedtheGlobeWorks.Mr.McMichieslhadinformedhimthatSen¬ atorJohnP.Hale,Chairmanofthe CommitteeonNavalAffairs,hadsaid, “noonecouldfindanyfaultwithsuch anarrangement.”Thedecisiontosell thecontractwouldcauseLawrence serious,long-termfinancialdifficul¬ ties.

Theairofconfidentexpectation surroundingtheLawrence-Pick¬ eringagreementwassoonrude¬ lyshattered.InJuly,RearAd¬ miralFrancisH.Gregory,Head oftheOfficeofIronclads,informed LawrencethattheMonitorwastobe builtinPortlandandnotinBoston.The Navy made this stipulation even thoughtheyhadnotmentioneditin thecontract,specifications,advertise¬ mentoranyexistentcommunication priortothebeginningofconstruction.

TheU.S.AttorneyGeneral’sOffice concurredwiththeAdmiral.Lawrence, agreeingtotheNavy’sdemandssigned anewcontractinNovember,andbe¬ ganconstructionofashiphouseand machine shop at his own yard in Portland.Lawrence’sdecisionwould haveseriousandfarreachinglegaland financialproblemsforhisfamily.He hadtoprocurethoseitemsalready purchasedandfabricatedattheGlobe Works,ataskwhichnaturallyledto someresentmentforbothPickering andLawrence.Inaddition,hehadto subcontractvariousportionsofthe ship:theturretandblowersfromPitts¬ field,Massachusetts,theboilersin EastBoston,thepropellorstoPhila¬ delphia,therudderandportionsofthe turretmachinerytoWestbrook,Maine andtheenginesatPortland.

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TheDailyEasternArgusreportedon October19,1863that:“Mr.Lawrence haserected,athisshipyard,alarge shiphousefortheironvesselhehasa contractforwiththegovernmentandis alreadylayingherkeel.”Thisstorywas

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followeduponJanuary15,1864witha storyaboutthemachinesintheIron Works’machineshop,“whichrolland fashionmassiveironplates,whichbite offahugepieceofironaseasilyand quicklyasaschoolboybiteshisginger bread,andwhichpunchholesthrough andthroughthegreatplateasifitwere dough.”

However,allwasnotassanguineas reportedintheArgus.TheOfficeofthe GeneralInspectorofIroncladsinNew York,whichwasresponsibleforthe LightDraftMonitors,beganissuing changestotheplansbeforethekeel was laid. These changes, many of whichreflectedlessonslearnedfrom operationsofearlierMonitors,amoun¬ tedtoasmanyasnineperday.Someof thechangeswerefor“aringaround theturretandpilothousethicker.”This waspromptedbythedamagetothe PassaicclassofMonitorsduringthe navalattackonFortSumteroffCharles¬ ton,SouthCarolinainthespringof 1863.“Crossfloorsonthebottom”and “severalnewbulkheads”wereadded tostrengthenthehull.Therewasa changefromthe150-pounderParrott Rifletoanother11-inchDahlgrendue totheformer’stendencytoburstatthe breachuponfiring.Allofthisaddedan expenseof“overahundredthousand dollars”totheMonitors.

Thecostofmaterials,duetothe shortagecausedbythewartimedem¬ and,roserapidly.Commonpigiron, usedinmuchofthearmorplating,rose asmuchas66percentinthefirstsix monthsof1864.Inthatsameyear,the dailywageforamachinistandmetal finisherrose16percent.Evenwiththe moneyitwasdifficulttoretainworkers asthedrafttookmorementomeetthe army’sinsatiabledemandforsoldiers.

Tomakethingsworse,apersonality conflictaroseinthespringof1864 between Lawrence and the Govern¬ mentInspector,EmersonAmes.Ina letteronMay30,Lawrencerequested thattheNavyDepartmentsendanew inspectoras“themannowhereisnot asuitablepersonfortheplace.Heis embarrassingmebyrefusingtogive mecertificatesforpaymentsdue.”The sameday,inapersonallettertoGus¬ tavusFoxhecomplainsthatAmeswas “noteven—atsometimesheisvery pleasantandatotherseverythingis wrong."ThisledtoAmesinterfering withtheworkmenontheWassuc.The

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resultwasthatAmesresignedandthe NavyappointedanewInspectorin June.

Theproblemofweightwasfinally discovered with the launching of ChimoonMay5,1864.Duetoanerror inthedesigncalculationsthesternof theship,withturretandpilothouse, wasoneinchunderwater,whilethe bowwasseveninchesoutofthewater. Theshipwassupposedtohavea12inchminimumfreeboard.Thismis¬ calculationonthepartofthedesign agentaffectedall20oftheLightDrafts. During the next two months a flurryoflettersandtelegrams passed between Washington, Boston, New York, and other citieswheretheLightDrafts, most near completion, were under construction.Ericsson,whohadnot beenconsultedregardingthefinalized designoftheLightDrafts,wasasked forhisrecommendationsbyAdmiral Gregory.Itwasdecidedtocomplete the Wassuc, andmostoftheother Monitors,buttohavetheirdecks raised22inchestoincreasetheir freeboard.Thismajorredesignneces¬ sitatedaconsiderabledelayincom¬ pletionofthevessels.Italsorequired modificationstotheoriginalagree¬ mentswiththebuildersastothecost oftheadditionalwork.

BytheendofJulyLawrenceandthe Navyagreedto$78,000asthepricefor raisingthedeckoftheWassuc.This, however,didnotincludedisagree¬ ment concerning previous design changes,nordiditincludecostto Lawrenceforadditionaldesignchan¬ ges.These,coupledwiththeinitial contractproblems,wouldprovidethe gristforalegalbattlethatwouldlast longaftertheWassucwasbrokenup. Finally,onJuly25,1865,anex¬ pectantcrowdgatheredonthehill overlookingtheLawrenceIronWorks andonthePortland,SacoandPorts¬ mouthRailroadbridgeovertheFore Riveraspreparationsweremadeto launchtheWassuc.Suddenly,at12:45, theironcladslid“smoothlyintothe watersamidthecheerofthosepres¬ ent,”accordingtothePortlandAdver¬ tiser.Thearticle,whichwaspublished thefollowingday,failedtomention thatthevesselwasalmostayear behindscheduleand,sincethewar hadendedinApril,itwouldnotbe commissioned. The Wassuc would

spendthenextnineyearsinmothballs atBostonandPhiladelphiabefore beingscrappedin1874.

Thepilothouseandgunswerein¬ stalledatdocksideduringAugustand Septemberof1865.EarlyinOctobera boardofinspectionconvenedunder Commodore John Winslow. Winslow hadbeencommanderoftheUSSKearsargeinthevictoryovertheCSSAl¬ abamaoffCherbourg,Francein1864. TheboarddeclaredthattheWassuc wasacceptableforreceiptbytheNavy. ThevesselthensteamedtoBoston whereitwaslaidup.

Alegalbattlenowbegantorecover costsduetothedelayanddesign changes.Thisstrugglewouldlastbe¬ yondthebreaking-upofthe Wassuc andthedeathofLawrence,atage71,in 1887. A Naval board would recom¬ mend,in1893,thathiswidow,Thank¬ ful,receive$130,187fordelayincurred betweenJulyandNovemberof1863 whenLawrencesignedthenewcon¬ tractwiththeNavy.However,onFeb¬ ruary15,1897,32yearsafterthe WassucwasacceptedbytheNavy,the CourtofClaims(No.16835)reduced theamountto$36,385.Thedecision stated“thatthedelay,fromamoral pointofview,mayhavebeencaused bytheGovernment,butfromalegal pointofviewitwascausedbythe contractor(i.e.,Lawrence).Bysub¬ mittingtothedemandsoftheGov¬ ernment,byenteringintoanewcon¬ tract,byconstructingthevesselin Portland,heacquiescedintheGovern¬ ment’sdemands.”ThankfulM.Law¬ rencediedonApril4,1897andwas buriednexttoherhusbandinDamar¬ iscotta.

TheLawrences’difficultieswiththe Navyrepresentbutoneoftheearly instancesoffinancialandlegaldiffi¬ cultiesduetomisunderstandinginthe midstofrapidtechnologicalchange. Hissituationwasnotunique,sinceall ofthebuildersoftheLightDraft Monitors would have court claims againstthegovernment.Theseprob¬ lems,whichareessentiallyademon¬ strationinhumanfallibilityandpoor communications,stillplaguemany weaponsdevelopmentprojectstothis day.

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SuddenlyMomsitsboltupright. She’sstruck.Thereelwhizzes, thengoestaut.UncleWinburn throwsthemotorintoneutral. Dadliftsthevisorofhishatand reelsinhisline.Mom’srodisbowedin agreatarc;herfreckled,sunburntarms strain.AuntBessieglancesupfromher work,herfingerssuspendedinthe yarnandpointingateachother.Advice isshouted.“Playitout.Reelfaster. Don’tloseit.”MightyMom,fisher¬ womanextraordinaire,gazesintently

atthesurfaceofthegreenwater.Dadis atthereadywiththenet.Therodis nownearlybentintwo;shereelswith slow,determinedturns.Click.Click. Click. Whatever she has has now stoppedfighting.Thelineplunges straightandmotionlessintothewater. Click.Click.Click.Closer.Dadleans outfartherthan1amallowedoverthe sideoftheboatandspotssomething. Mom’sshouldersarebent,herskin glistens.

Thefirstthingtosurfaceisastrand

of seaweed, then more. My father reachesout,grabsthelineandpulls away a large clump of seaweed to revealaclamhoe.Everyoneissilent, andthenAuntBessieputsawayher crocheting.Enoughforoneday.

Theseacandishupalotmorethan bargainedfor.Ifasinglefishingline can bring up a clam hoe, one can imaginethewealthofdebristhatmust behauledupdailyinthecapacious netsfromthefishingboatsinthearea.I decidedtotalktosomelocalfisherfolk andseewhatstrangefruitstheAtlantic hadyielded.

Itshouldhardlybesurprisingthat there’salotofjunkhangingaroundon theoceanfloor:CascoBsywascom¬ pletelyfortifiedduringWorldWar11 andisstrungwithsubmarinenets; also,generations(untilrecently)have freelydumpedtheirgarbageinthe drink.Neithershoulditbesurprising thatalotofthisjunkendsupinnets.A friend(ofthenon-fishervariety)had beguiledmewithtalesofanintact wingfromaWW-I1plane,aNavyP-2 Neptune,andawashingmachine—all found off these shores. When one thinksofallthathasbeendumped, fallen,andwreckedintheocean,one wouldexpectanumberofodditiesto surface.

Spendingahandfulofdayswander¬ ingthedocksandpiersandpilingson CommercialStreetisaneducation. ThefirstthingIlearnedwasthatthe lastplacetofindafishermanisatthe dailyfishauctiononthePortlandFish Pier.Allyoufindthereissalesreps.I did,however,encounterBudReinhart, whocallshimselfa“shorecaptain.” Herubshischin,shiftinghisattention betweenmeandthereceptionistwho islookingforhispaycheck.Hemen¬ tionsvariousmilitaryobjects:dis¬ chargefueltanks,bombs,bitsoffair¬ planes, a torpedo—mostly dating aroundtheWW-IIera.Hethenre¬ countsfindingablockofcompressed garbage—discharged from a Navy sub—which, when opened, revealed classifiedinformation.Heissatisfied thathehascomeuptheplumIam lookingforandendsourconversation. Hedirectsmeouttothedockstofind theskipperofoneofhisboats,the Pursuit.Hegesturesvaguelyoutpast theMarineTerminalbuildingandtells meIcan’tmissit.

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findthePursuitbutnoskipper.Abare¬ chestedmaningreasyjeansisham¬ meringawayattheinnardsofthe boat’senginetothesoundsofWBLM. Yellingoverthedin,Ifinallygethis attention.Nope.Ijustmissedhim. Nope.Hecouldn’thelpme,hewasjust ashoreengineer.Besttospeaktothe captain.Heshieldshiseyesandpoints to a long row of doors up in the terminal.He’supthere.Feelinglike AliceinWonderland,Itryanumberof differentoffices—tonoavail.O.K.,so thisonegotaway.Idospot,however,a crewofmenloadingaboatwithprov¬ isions.Iexplainbrieflytooneofthe mateswhatI’mdoingwhilehecon¬ tinuesluggingbottlesofwaterand cratesoffoodfromthetrunkofanold Buickandslidingthemdownarampto the boat. He neither answers nor acknowledges my questions for a coupleoftrips.Finally,hejerkshis headoverhisshoulderatamancoil¬ ing a gas hose behind him. “You wannatawktotheskippa.”

Iwaituntilthehoseisrewoundand thenaskSkipper(Skipperisac¬ tuallyhisfirstname,soitshould beSkipperSkipper)Drewabout whathe’sfoundinhisnets.He rubshishandsonhispantlegsand looksoutintothebay.“Youdosee somepeculiarstufffromthebottom,” hesaysandthenturnstome,looking at me as though there were a pen stickingoutofmynose.“Who’dyou sayyouweredoingthisfor?”Iexplain againwhatIamafter—thestrange,the singular,therarefind.“There’salotof stufffromwrecks,”heoffers.“Anchors, timber,rudders,keels.”Herecounts oncepullinginasolidbrassrudder, oneofthefewthingsinhistravelshe was tempted to keep, although he didn’thaveroomonboardatthetime. Click.Thereelofmemorystartstoturn. “Oh,andlotsofoldbottlesandpartsof weatherballoons.”1playthelinea little.Anymilitarystuff?Igetthesame bomb,plane,shellcasinginformation. “And once I heard that someone draggedupatorpedo.”(Thereisap¬ parentlyaschooloftheminCasco Bay.)Hethentellsastorydatingback to1978whenhewastheskipperofa boatcalled“TheLadyoftheGulf.”It wasMayandhewasfishingoutnear ThreeDoryBasin.Asouthwesterwas blowing,theseaswerebreakingover thestern.Thecrewhadriggedsome

woolentarpsthatareusedto“shelfoff gear”tothesideoftheboat.Theywere lostinthestorm,butfourmonthslater Drewpulledinhisnetstofind—yes, thewoolentarps.“Doyouknowwhat thechancesofthatare?”heasks.I guessslimandamright.

IwanderbacktothePursuitandstill noskipper.Themechanicshrugshis shouldersatme.Ifeeltheday’sfishing hascometoanend.

Backtothephones,Idecide.Too manydeadendsonthewaterfront. MostofthepeopleIspeakwitharea

Helaunches intoinformation about“bicatch,” whichiswhenyou goforonespecies andbringinanother.

landlubberishlot,friendlyenough,but withnodirectexperiencestooffer. Twomen.however,arehelpful.Craig Johnson at Custom House Seafood tellsmehecanintroducemetoa coupleoffishermen,ifIcomedown. AndBenattheofficesofHarborFishis willingtodosometalkingoverthe phone.

Helaunchesintoinformation about“bicatch,”whichiswhen you go for one species and bringinanother.Hetalksabout codandcunnafoundinlobster traps.Iamstillgrapplingwithwhat cunnaandbicatcharewhenIrealize weareonthewrongtrack.Iinterrupt himandexplainagainwhatI’mafter. HesuggestsIspeakwithBuzzyDow downatHarborFishMarket.“Heand hisfamilyhavebeenfishingforyears. He’llhavestories.”Iarrangeameeting timewithDowoverthephone.

Ilikethis.Aspecificdestination.An appointment.Ianticipateagrizzledold manwhowillcallme“matey,”say “shivermetimbers,"andreeloffyarn afteryarn.Ievengosofarastohopefor apegleg.

Iamofcoursedisappointedwhen thetall,mustached,pleasant-looking manbehindthecounterturnsouttobe Dow.1againexplainmyquestandhe listenscarefully.InolongerfeellikeI haveapenstickingoutofmynose.No, I’veskippedthatandsimplyhave MORONprintedacrossmyforehead.

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HereIam,downonthedocks,inter¬ ruptingpeoplefromtheirjobs.People whoworkforaliving,peoplewhosell andcatchfish.Fishareneeded,stories arenot.Iwanttodropmypenandpad, yankonayellowapron,andwrapupa pieceofcuskforsomeone.ButIdon’t.1 pursuemylineofquestioning.Iem¬ phasizetheoddandtheunusual.1 want everyone to have a washing machineintheirnet.

/ / B T ope,neverbeenshipmates l) * with a washingmachine,” W responds Dow. “Brought ■upsomebombs,”heoffers X 1 hopefully.Iwanttostomp myfoot.Everybody’sgotbombs.Iwant amannequin,aswingset,Elvis.Andif youmentionthattorpedo,I’mgoingto throwmyselfinthatvatofboiling lobsters.Dowtriestobehelpful. “There’salotofstufffromwrecked ships...portholes,steeringwheels,lots ofanchorsandthelike.”Dow,whono longerfishes,recountsthathekepta lotofhisfinds,thoughhe’suncertain whatbecameofmostofthem.

He takes a minute to wait on a customerandthenbringshisfriend Joeover.Joe’sinyellowoverallsand boots,abaseballcap,andhisfaceis coveredwithwhitestubble.Between hisMaineaccentandtheroarofthe lobstertanks,Ihavetroublemaking outwhathe’ssaying.Hetellsofaplace offThreeDoryRidges(neighbor,no doubt,toThreeDoryBasin)nearthe wreckoftheAllison somebody. He tellsofbringingupadoor.EvenDowis notclear.“Acabindoor?”“No,a ‘dragging’door."Whatwefinallydeci¬ pheristhatsomenetshaveadoorin thebackofthem.Thewreckagehad rippedawayeverythingfromhisnet butthedoor.Healsomentionsribsof ships,mostofwhichdisintegratethe minutetheyhitair.

Themenputtheirheadstogether andrecallashipbringingupabomb thatkilledallbuttwoofthecrew.“The Navytoldthemtoleaveit,butthey weresurethey’dgetrichfromit.(Itis notexactlyclearhow,butweallknow thatbombsareexpensive.)“Anyway, theyheldontoit.Theseaswererough anditkeptbangingagainsttheside, and,well,itbangedonetoomany times.” Both men look thoughful. “Yup.Thatwasbackinthelate’50s, early’60s...HeyJoe,nowthatIthinkof it,wasn’tthatdowninVirginia?”

“Soundsright.An’cometothinkofit,it was a torpedo, not a bomb.” They wanderoff,onetodumpakettleof boiledlobstersonalargetable,the othertopackageupapeckofclams.I havedriftedoutoftheirnets,disinte¬ gratedintotheair.

IdecidetohuntdownCraigJohnson furtherdownCustomHouseWharf.I enteralargebarn-likedoorintoavast roomfilledwithlobstertanksslopping waterontoaconcretefloor.Ifollowa guideupasetaofcrooked,dimlylit stairs,acrossagiantloftthatsmellsof mustandrot,andamleftatawhite doormarked“Office.”Outofthe19th centuryintothe’90s—afaxmachine,a copier,acomputer.Areceptionistsits atherdeskdoingacrosswordpuzzle.I askifthemanonthephoneisJohn¬ son.Shesmilesandnodsandresumes herpuzzle.Whenhe’soffthephone, Johnsonleadsmebackdownstairs, excusinghimselfforhe’sbeenupall nightpackinglobstersandfornot beinghissharpest.Hemeetsupwitha friendonthepierandlookstohimfor help.Hisfriendlooksathisbootsand

shakeshishead.SuddenlyJohnson comesto.“Ohyeah,remember?Scotty Johnsoncaughtawhale.”Thefriend nods.Click.Click.Closer.“Caughthim inhisstringertraps.Itnearlycapsized hisboat,almosttookthesternsman withhim.Theywereholdingonwith everythingtheygotandthenthisbig tailgoesWHOP.NeverseenScotty shakenlikehewaswhenhecamein thatday.”Anotherguyisthefirstto mentionpartsofcars.“Lotsoftires, whitewalls.”Heoutlinesaforminthe airasthoughdescribingthetophalfof ashapelywoman.“Pulledinawhole bumperfromaCaddyonce.”Heeven acknowledgesawashingmachineor two. “Casco Bay used to be a big dumpster,butit’snotlikethatsomuch anymore.”

findmywayovertothenextpierto talktoMarkRand.Iwaituntilhe finishesaconversationabout shedders.Itseemstheshedders arenotgoingtobelatethisyear, despitethecoldspring.Hisfriendhas alreadybroughtafewupinhistraps.It makesmyquestionsevenmoretrivial

ExperiencetheMaineofyesterdayatthefamous NonantumResortinpicturesqueKennebunkport. Establishedin1883,thischarmingresortoffers fineaccommodations,restaurant,pool, recreationalactivities,andtheambianceofa bygoneera.Walktobeaches,shopsandgalleries, anddiscoverthebestofMaine. Callorwriteforreservationsormoreinformation.

andtheworkheisdoingonhisboat moreurgent,buthetakesthetimeto talkwithme.Therewasadingybe¬ longingtoaMassachusettsman.They tracedtheregistration,locatedthe manandhecameuptoretrieveit.That wastenyearsago.Therewasarotten whale“asbigasaboat.”Hesaysnot he,butothershavebroughtupdead bodies,includingonefromaburialat sea.Makingtheultimatesplash.What dowedowiththem,1half-heartedly want to know. “Notify the Coast Guard.”Andtheotherstuff?"Bringit in.”Heexplainsthatthepollutionhas lessenedinthelastfiveofthe15years he’sbeenfishing.Itispartlybecause fewerpeoplearedumpinggarbage. Buthealsoattributesittothefactthat thereis“anoverallconscientiousef¬ fort”amongfishermentobringinthe debristheyhaulin.Thewaterfrontis linedwithdumpstersforthatvery purpose.“Youwillfindthatfishermen havethegreatestrespectforthe ocean,”heconcludes.“Thisiswhere wemakeourliving,andwehaveto takecareofit.” H THE

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ScotiaPrince

NewreasonstolovePortland’sgreatestwaterfrontattraction.

ByColinSargent

Ifyouneedsomehelpinorderto fallinlovewithPortlandagain, juststeponthedeckoftheScotia Princeasshe’ssteamingoutof PortlandHarbor.

It’sblackasamineshaftuphere, whereinthechillywindyou’reeye¬ levelwiththedomeofPortlandCity Hall.Andpeoplearetalkinggloriously, romanticallyaboutPortland.

“They’vedonealotwiththiscity.”

“Thisplaceisonthewayup.It’s changedincrediblysinceIwashere last.Doyouseeallthosebrickware¬ housesandVictorianbuildingsover there?”AutomaticallyIlook.There, nestledbelowthehillysodiumlamps climbingMunjoyHilluptothePort¬ landObservatory,abovetheneonof DiMillo’sandaforestofmastsatthe marinas,isExchangeStreet,Market, Commercial Street, Wharf Street. “That’stheOldPortDistrict.It’sfullof shopsandeverything,justlikeFaneuil Hall."

Itis?Maybeit’sthealtitude.Acynic totheend,1lookatthetwinklinglights ofthebanks,searchingforthemindnumbing absence of Maine Savings Bank’s mammoth THE ONE sign.

Buttheoptimismisinfectious. PeoplestarttalkingabouttheBalti¬ morewaterfront,WatersideinNorfolk, Virginia,even,ridiculously,KeyWest.I

startsayingthingslike“Youknow, maybethewholebusinesscommunity shouldcomeouthereontheScotia Princetogetthefeelofwhatit’sliketo seethecityofPortlandfromitsbest side, from the sea.” The human scale—thelovelinessofthecity—is obviousfromhere.

ThissideofPortlandiswhatgot peopleinterestedintheplaceinthe firstplace.

Suddenlyawomanstandingbeside melaughs,“Iwanttogoback!”

“Howstrongaswimmerareyou?” saysherhusband.

“I’mcold!”Everybodysaysatonce. Behindusandtotherightaretheoil tanksoftheSouthPortlandwaterfront. “Howmanyofthosethingsarefilled?” apassengerasksaswewalkpast.The windtearsoffherfriend’sanswer.

Wearepickingupspeed,turning aroundBugLightandaccelerating throughthechannelbetweenCushing IslandandCapeElizabeth.

Andthere,lookingeverybitlikethe UNUMlogo,isPortlandHeadlight,its beamcleavingthedarknesslikea calciumsword.

Everybodyelsehasgoneintodinner, butwestayoutsideawhile,watching thelightsgetburiedinourwake.Dark, treacherousRamIslandLightslides by.WeretheRamIslandDancersever

outthere,slippingonseaweed?I’dlike toseethat,Iguess,DanielMcCusker andcompanyflyingoverthegreen ribbonkelp,butIguessRammeans aboutelevendifferentthingsinPort¬ land,manyofthemunintelligibleto visitorswhomaynothaveheardof businessman/philanthropistRobertA. Monks.

Thisisamazing,Iconvincemyself, eventhoughIhavebeenonthismotor shipbefore.I’mgoingtowakeupin Yarmouth,NovaScotia.The Scotia Prince issomeoftheoriginalold amazingstuff!

IlookbackatPortlandonelasttime andimagineatantalizinghigh-level bridgelitupwithcars,asignaturefor thecity.

Thisisnotareverie.I’vegotfacts toillustratetheimpactofthe ScotiaPrince.Thisshipbrings upto15,000peopleamonth directlytothePortlandWater¬ fronttoparticipateinourregional economy.Thiscomparesto125,000a yearforthePortlandMuseumofArt, butthentheScotiaPrincedoesn’toffer freeadmissiononSaturdaysfrom10noon.Perhapstheyshouldn’tbecom¬ pared!Otherwise,ScotiaPrinceisthe clearwinnerinbaconandhaddock volume,viz.servingsofover12,000 pounds of haddock in a season, 350,000slicesofbacon,50,000pounds ofpotatoes,150,000poundsofrice, 14,000poundsofturkeybreast,18,000 poundsoftopround,12,000poundsof ribeye.LennartLinden,theexecutive whodoestheorderingfortheshipand itstop-notchloungesandrestaurants, routinely orders 75,000 cocktail shrimpperseason.Lestyouthink thesearesimple,massiveorders,con¬ siderthedeliciousDigbyscallops servedontheship.“Ofcoursethey're Digby,andwebuythemfresh,directly from Yarmouth," Linden, who has workedfor22yearswithPrinceof FundyCruisesandlivesinScarbor¬ ough,says.“Wecontractdirectlywith theYarmouthfishingfleet,buying between50to100poundsaweek.”

ThesecolorfulDigbyscallopboats enjoyacherishedplaceinthemem¬ oriesofscalloploverseverywhere, floatingatthenearendoftheworld, pullinguplarge,sweet,chewyseallops thatare,withoutexaggerating,unfor-

gettable.

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AlsointhePrincessDiningRoom,of course,areourprize,Mainelobsters.

Seating320,thePrincessDining Roomhaslivepianomusicanddel¬ iciouscuisinesuchasLobsterCock¬ tail,chunksoffreshlobsterservedwith Rhode Island sauce ($6.25 U.S.); Poached Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce($12.95);Cajun-StyleSwordfish ।($13.95);anassortmentoffestivedes¬ serts,includingChocolateMonkey .($2.95);andFrenchCoffee,Italian ।Coffee,IrishCoffee,JamaicanCoffee, Mexican Coffee, Montreal Coffee, ScotiaPrinceCoffee,RomanaCoffee, andKeokeCoffee($3.75).Hey,we’re onacruiseship!

officerinchargeofthehoteland casinopartsoftheship.

“Whatdoyoudowhentheshipis notcruising?”Iaskhim.

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“1gohometoJamaica.”

“Whatdoyoudothere?”

Hegivesabigsmile.“Nothing!”

Hehasworkedhiswayupthrough theranksoftheScotiaPrinceoverthe lasteightyearstothispreeminent position.Hemakesitlookeasy,butas wespeak,acrowdofcrewmembersis pilingupoutsideourdoor,eachwitha differentquestion.

"EverhadanythievesontheScotia Prince?"

“Notreally.Wegetstringersocca¬ sionally?"

Stringers?

“Youknow,theyputacoinonthe endofastringandtrytousetheslot machines?”

“Theystilltrytodothat?”Wheredo thesestringerscomefrom,Mayberry

“Yes,”helaughs.“Somethinginthe machinemakesapassafterthecoin dropsinandautomaticallycutsoff anythingbehindit.Actually,”hesays, “ofthemanyslotmachineswehave, maybethreeorfourdon’thavethe string-cuttingdeviceinstalled.”For someinanereason,thedoppleganger inmefilesthisawayasanimportant insight,incaseawarbreaksoutandI havetofeedmyfamilyand1havetodo somestringingrealfast.Thissame dopplegangerplanstostealaCessna 150aftertheinitialshockwaveandfly west, out over Sanford Muni and towardthemountains,afterthefirst nuclearexchange,tobeatoutthe radiation.

“Look,Ihavetoaskyousomething,” IaskBlack,whoremindsmeofDenzel Washington.“Iwaslookingthrougha portholeatthecrew’smess,and1saw allthesegreatspicesonthetablesthat aren’tavailableinthePrincessDining Room.IthinkIsawOuterbridge’s Sauce.Isn’tthatfromBermuda?” Biggrin."Holdonasecond.”He reachesintohisdeskdrawer.HaveI insultedhim?Hepullsoutaverylarge glassjarandputsitonhistable. Anotherjarappears.“Thesearemy spices,”hesays.“Igrowthemand make them myself, and bring them withmefromJamaica.”Rocketfuel, obviously.Oneofthemisaspecial typeofjerksauce.“Ourcrewisfrom everywhere,”hesays,rattlingoff 25nationalitiesthatincludeCroatians, Germans,Swedes,Jamaicans,Hait¬ ians,Hondurans,Philippines,Canadi¬ ans,andpeoplefromSt.Vincent, Guyana,andEngland.“Ifapersonfrom HaitiisaHaitian,”Iaskafriendwhile

writingthis,“whatdoyoucallaperson fromSt.Vincent?”

“ACaribbean,”sherepliesinan instant.

“TheonlythingI’dchangeisthe appearanceoftheInternationalTer¬ minal,”LucienBlacksaysdelicately. “I’vealwayswonderedwhyPortland hasn’ttakenadvantageofallthecom¬ mercewearebringingin.Aclean, invitingterminal,evenonelikethey haveinYarmouth,withaconcourse, wouldgiveabetterfirstimpressionfor thecityofPortland.Itcouldincrease othercruiseshiptrafficaswell.”

Itstunshimthatwedon’thave thingslikeaquariumsandtrainsta¬ tionsandretailestablishmentscud¬ dledinwiththeInternationalTerminal.

The Scotia Prince can accom¬ modateatotalof1,500passengers, 1,054initscomfortablecabins.Builtin theformerYugoslaviain1972(except forasectionoftheshiplengthenedin northernGermanyin1987),shecan cany26“lorries”aspartofanoverall displacementof11,968grossregis¬ teredtons.Shecansaveyouawhop¬ ping858milesofdriving.Departing Portlandat9p.m.andarrivingin Yarmouthat9a.m.,sheoffersevery¬ thingfromsuites(sittingroom,bed¬ roomwithtwobeds,fullbath)for$125 offseason,$165onseason;totwo¬ berthbedrooms(upper/lowerberths, washbasinonly)for$20-$23offsea¬ son,$32-$38offseason.

Myonlysure-firerecommendation is,ifyou’restayinginYarmouth,stayat theManorInn.Firstofall,it’seasy,the ManorInnbusiswaitingforyou,in plainsight,asyoustepofftheScotia Prince.TillyGreiner,thewomanwith thelovelyvoicewiththeBritishIsles inflectionswhodoestheannounce¬ ments on the ScotiaPrince,hasn’t gottentostaythere.LucienBlackhas neverstayedovernightinYarmouth. Butforthoseofuswhocan,it’son Doctor’sLakewithafour-starrestau¬ rantinthelushformer1920sestateof CommodoreH.H.Raymond.Thegar¬ denfeatures200prizehybridroses, thereisadockwithcanoesforguest use,aswimmingpool,tenniscourt, storybookgroundstostrollin,andthe finestCanadiancookingimaginable, includingprize-winningscallopdish¬ esandunmatchedmeatandfishen¬ trees.Breakfast?FriedredCanadian tomatoes.Thisisonelovelyplace.H

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Thissummer,comewatchjazz&poetrysmokeintheold J.B.Brownmolasseswarehouseon20DanforthStreet.

ByElizabethPeavey

LkWWTThatpartofNOdon’tyou **■■/understand?”statesasign ■■/postedonabeamatthe WW Cafe No.

" 1 Measuring the cafe’s successinthisrougheconomy,it seemsthere’sanumberoflocalarts andmusicenthusiastswhoareinthe knowaboutNo.Toothers,however,it maybeanenigmaticoddity.

SowhatisCafeNo,anyway?Ajazz club,arestaurant,acoffeehouse,a poets’forum,agallery,atheatre?Well, yesandno.

1firstvisitedthecafeatnoontime.It being my maiden voyage down the long,darkcorridor(thecafeis130feet fromthestreet),Iwasn’tsurewhatto expect.Whenindoubt,generalize.1 imaginedI’dstumbleintoagroupof beret-sporting,espresso-quaffing,goateed,finger-snappingbeatniksarguing existentialism.No,justabusylunch rush.Nearlyallthetableswereoccu¬ piedwithpeopleeatingandgabbing. Notaclovecigaretteinsight.“So,”I thought,“theCafeNoisarestaurant." Notexactly.WhenIreturnedlaterin theafternoon,thingsweremorere¬ laxed.Afewblack-cladyouthswere drinkingcoffeeinthecorner;twobusi¬ nessmenconvenedoversandwiches;

a woman was eating a salad and readingthepaper.Ah,soit’sacoffee¬ house.OwnerPaulLichterwasbusy behindthecounterpouringcupsof coffee,ladelingoutsoup,anddishing updessertstogo.Okay.It’satake-out place.Inoticedthelistingsofup¬ comingmusicandartsevents.It’sa performancecenter.1waswonderingif Icouldfindawaytogetmycarinthere, if1couldgetmyoilchanged,too.I decidedIdidnothavetheintellectual staminatofiguretheplaceoutand waitedforLichtertofinishthebusi¬ nessathandandlethimexplain.

IfthereisonethingclearaboutCafe No,it’sthatitisajoint,plainand simple.It’slocatedintheJ.B.Brown warehouseonDanforthStreet,which alsohousesanumberofotherbusi¬ nessesandstudiospace.(Somepeo¬ plerefertothisareaas“TheNewOld Port,”sincesomanyartistsandsmall businesseshavebeendrivenfromthe oldOldPortbyhighrents.)There’s exposed brick and beam, beat-up woodfloors.Amakeshift-lookingstage occupies the center of the room. Tablesarecoveredwithbutcherpaper, shouldthemusescalluponyoumid¬ mealandyouneedtodashdownsome bitofinspiration.Acounterrunsthe

lengthofthefarwall,andbehinditis the exposed kitchen. Box-framed photosofjazzgreatsandpaintings coverthewalls.Theroomhasasub¬ terranean,slightlyclaustrophobicfeel. Whenthingssettle,Lichterjoinsme. Ourconversationisfrequentlyinter¬ ruptedbythephone—reservationsfor theVaclavHavelplayonWednesday; callsfromvendors,requestsfordirec¬ tions(“Darling,”—Lichterapparently callsallwomen“darling”—I’mvery busy.It’sDanforthStreet.NearGiobbi’s.Youcan’tmissit.”Heflipstapes, takesmoney,andchatswithhisstream ofcustomers,mostofwhomheknows byname.

Whilethecafemayhaveanimage problem,itdoesnothaveanidentity problem.Thevisionisclear.“Weare firstandforemostajazzclub,”asserts Lichter.“Wedofoodtosupportthe musicventure.Theotherprograms andeventshavejustseemedtoevolve. ThegrowthofCafeNohasbeenvery organic.”

This growth has been slow but steadyforthecafe.Lichterreelsoffthe historyasifbyrote.“Imovedto Portlandtwoandahalfyearsagofrom Detroit.Afteraboutfivemonths,Ide¬ cidedtostaybutwasfrustratedbe¬ causetherewasnoplacearoundto hearthekindofmusicIliked.”An occasionaltriptoBostonmighthave satisfiedmostpeople,butLechterde¬ cidedtheanswerwastoopenaclubof hisown.

“AdvisorssaidIwascrazy—parti¬ cularlyinthiseconomy,particularly withjazz.”Andit’strue,Portlandhas notshownasustainedappetiteforjazz inrecenthistory.Mostattemptstooffer jazzintownonaregularbasishave metwithultimatefailure.

Undaunted,Lichterforgedahead. Heknewhewouldhavetoofferfoodof somesorttosustaintheenterprise.He thusenlistedthehelpofhisnow¬ partner, David Snow to supervise things in the kitchen. Snow had workedinfinerestaurantsforyears“as adaygig”tosupporthimselfasa sculptor.

KareemiAttallah’sLebanesefood servesasthecoreofthemenu,but thereisalsoavarietyofsoups,stews, sandwiches and salads to choose

from.Itemsontheeclecticmenurange fromadinnersalad($2.95)tobaba ghanough, “a smoky eggplant dip” ($4.75)tosmokedtroutfilet($6.95). Beerandwineareserved.

iththemenuandthevision established,theysetoutto convertthewarehousespace, whichhadn’tbeenusedfor anythingbutstorageforover 100years,intoacafe.

Lichterstartedby“nabbingsomeof themusiciansinthestate,whoarevery fineplayers”togetthingsgoing.Before long,hehadenlistedmusiciansfrom Boston.Onegroup,theCharlieKohlhaseQuartet,beganplayingaregular schedulewhichprovedabigsuccess.

“Peoplestartedtakingusseriously asajazzclub.Audienceswerehungry. Therewasnoplaceintheareatohear thiskindofmusiconaregularbasis.”

Thecafebegantoearntherespectof musiciansinBoston.“Wordhasit,” quipsLichter,“withpeopleinBoston thattheCafeNoisthebestjazzclubin Massachusetts.”

Themusichasbeenverywellreceived. Showsfrequentlyselloutonweek¬ ends.Lichterrecallsatimewhen would-be patrons would call to interrogatehimabouttheclub,the players,thetypeofmusic,thecover charge.“Nowtheyjustcalltoseewhat timeitstarts.”

And it canbeMoseAllison,Dave Bryant,CannonballAdderlysideman HalGalper,AlanDawson,CecilMc¬ Bee,andLeeKonitz,tonameafew.

Thereisoftenapointinbusiness whenanownercanleanbackandsay, “Yup.ThisiswhatImeant.”This momeritoccurredrecentlyforLichter. Hewassittingaroundwithworld-class tromboneplayerHalCrookafterahot weekendrun.“Crookturnstomeand says,“Thisiswhatitis,man.Thisisthe shit.Onthisnight,youcouldholdyour ownwithanyjazzclubinthecountry.” SoCafeNoisajazzclub,yes.Addto thatgalleryspace,theatrespacefor VintageRepertoryTheatre,altarspace forfourrecentweddings,andthat poetry thing—The Cafe Review, a smallpressmagazine(unconnected tothecafe)thatpresentsopenpoetry readingsthesecondTuesdayofevery month—givingPortlandawallet-sized performingartscenter.Youknow,at CafeNo—locatedinPortlandmaine, Massachusetts.

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Whatallthesepeoplearoundthecountryhaveincommonisalittlepiece ofBucksport,Maine—heldrightintheirhands.

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WaterFutures

IsanewPortlandWaterfrontcomingoutofthefog?

ByMichaelSpinney

It’sbeenfiveyearssincePortland’s CityCouncilslammedthedooron adevelopmentalfree-for-allonthe waterfront.Theissueisonceagain alive,withabrandnewcouncil andagaspingeconomy,andobservers assureusitwon’tdiequietly.

FiveyearsofWaterfrontMoratorium havepassedquickly,hardlyaluxuryof timeinwhichtoreflectonhowlives andlivelihoodshavebeenaffected.

Further,therecessionhasvastly complicatedresults.Opponentsofthe moratoriumallbutblameitforde¬ pressingtheeconomy,whileadvo¬ catessayvictoriesofmarine-use-only strictures,likethemeasurablesuccess oftheHapag-Lloydcontainerbusiness thisyearandthedurabilityofthe PortlandFishExchange,couldhave beenevengreaterwithalevelplaying field.

Inanycase,youdon’thavetowalk

faralongtheseasideofCommercial Streettofindsomeonewithanopinon ofthepasthalfdecade,wherefrustra¬ tionsrunhighandangryfactionsstill clamptogetherlikebluemussels.

Charlie Poole hasbeeninvolved withthewaterfronthisentirelife. Charlie,whoownsandmanagesUn¬ ionWharfalongwithhisfather,Parker Poole,Jr.,sayshehasbeenhitwitha one-twopunchasresultofthemora¬ torium and an economy gone sour.

“Eveningoodtimeswehaven’thad 100percentoccupancy,”hesays.But becauseofrestrictionsimoosedbythe moratorium,“It’slimitedthemarket¬ place,limitedwhoyoucouldtalkto.

“Weallwantaworkingwaterfront, there’snothingwewantmore,but there’snotenoughmarineuseindustry tofillthespaceavailable.”

Poolefeelsthepublicjumpedata solutionoutoffearoveraproblemthat

wasneverthere,thatPortland’swater¬ front would never have become chokedwithcondominiums.

"Theywereallowedtoputcondos wheretheyputthembecauethelaw saidtheycould,”saysPoole,referring totheW-1,W-2zoningineffectpriorto themoratorium.

Asforthefateofworkingpiers,“This pierhasbeenherefor200years.Ithas alwaysbeenamarine-usepier.Our desirehasnotbeentotearitdownbut tohaveaworkingplacewherepeople candobusiness.”

Sam Davidson’s waterfrontinter¬ estate back to 1977. He has been DirectorandChairmanoftheBoardof thePortlandFishExchange,CPAand marineconsultant,andisownerofthe MarineTradeCenteralongwithpart¬ nerBobTetrault.

Themoratoriumhas“narrowedthe rangeoftenants,narrowedourmarket toapointwhereweliterallycannot occupythebuildingtoanysignificant economiclevel,”Davidsonsays.“It hassubstantiallyreducedtheoppor¬ tunityformanypeopletocomeintothe building.”

Davidsonsimilarlyfeelshe’sbeen givenastandingeightcountasresult ofblowsdealtbythemoratoriumand economy.

“Themoratoriumwasmarketedand

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soldasabasicreactiontohigh-end residentialexpansionandofficepro¬ jectsonthewaterfront,which,in theory,hadtheabilitytodisplacetradi¬ tionalusers,”hesays.Instead,“itbas¬ icallystoppedallgrowth.Speaking frompersonalinterest,it’sjustbeen terribleforme,”hecontinues.“This buildinghasnevermademoney.”

Looking down the length of the waterfrontfromhisofficewindow, Davidsoncommentsonwhathefeels hashappenedtotheveryplacesthe moratoriumwasmeanttoprotect.

“Therehasbeenanoutrightde¬ cline,”hesays.“Thesedeclineshave reducedrevenuestoallparticipants. We have not had a chance to make repairsandmaintenancethatwe’ve wanted to because we are in such marginalconditions.”

Richard Oransky, aPortlandna¬ tive,movedintothewaterfrontcondo¬ miniumcomplexknownasChandler’s Wharfjustbeforetheelectionof1987 broughtaboutthemortorium.

“I’dliketowake uponemorning andfindCumberland ColdStorageburned down,andI’d liketosee theAquarium.”

“Thoseofuswholivedherethen andliveherenowdon’thaveaprob¬ lemwiththewaterfrontindustry.We wavetoeachotherinthemorning.You justcan’texplainittopeoplewhodon’t livehere.We’reallfriends.”Hesays somepeopledon’thaveanideaof whatlifeonthewaterfrontisabout “Theythinkwe’reallwealthyNew Yorkers—IwasapoorkidfromPort¬ land.Iworkedinafishplantinhigh school(in1943).Mymotherwouldn’t letmeinthehouseattimes.”

Sincethemoratorium,Oransky sayshehasseen“fewerfishing boats.Moreboatscomein(to unloadtheircatch),butfewertie up.There’sanawfullotofspace forfishingboats.”

Oranskysaysthatwhilethegoalof the moratorium was honorable, “1 thinktheysteppedontheirownfoot.”

Ofthechangeshehasseen,Oransky

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saysthereareafewmorehe’dliketo see.“I’dliketowakeuponemorning and find Cumberland Cold Storage burneddown,andI’dliketoseethe Aquarium.1don’tthinkyouhaveto worry about condominiums being built.”

Voicesfromthewaterfrontover¬ heard,orthosethatwishto remainunidentified:“Karen (KeepthePortinPortland)San¬ ford,who’sshe?Some(wom¬ an)fromSeattle?Whatdoessheknow aboutPortland?”

“Ifthat’sthebesttheycando,Iwon’t worryaboutit,”says Karen Sanford ofherdetractors.

“Iwas(inSeattle)10years,I’vebeen here10years.1learnedalotworking onwaterfrontissuesinSeattle,”San¬ fordcontinues.“Immediatelyupon movingtoPortlandIbecameinvolved usingtheexperiencefromSeattle.”

Sanfordsaysthatshehastriedto warnPortlandersofthedangersof allowingthewaterfronttobecome“an upscaleshowplaceratherthanawork¬ place,”andthatthesechangesoccur quickly,withoutachancetorecover lostwaterfrontindustry.

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“It’stooimportantaresourceto allowthemarketplacetodictatewhat happens.”

Of changes Sanford has noticed sincethemoratorium’spassage,most havebeentheabsenceofwhatwould havebeen.

“Thefirstthingyouhavetorecog¬ nizeisthatitstoppedtheproliferation ofcondosandoffices,”shesays.“It forcedthecitytofocusonmarine development.

“Thepeoplespokeloudly,clearly, and overwhelmingly—2 to 1—over somesortofNewport,RhodeIslandor FanueilHallMarketplace.(Asaresult, thecitycouncil)feltfreertoallowa fishwasteproject,forinstance.The citydecidedtosupportthefishauction whenitneededhelp.”

Themandategiventothecitycoun¬ cilalsoallowedthemtopursuein¬ dustrysuchascontainershippingand gavesuchbusinessesconfidencethat thecitywantsindustry,ineffectsaying, “Thisisaplacethat’snotabouttogo upscale,”saysSanford.

Oneofthegreatestassetsofhaving sucharichwaterfrontresource,ac¬ cordingtoSanford,istheabilityto createandattract“dynamic,non-pol-

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lutingindustriesusingthelatesttech¬ nology—andhaveallthishappening withinwalkingdistanceofthousands offamilies.”

Citingonecommonproblem,how¬ ever,Sanfordpointstotheprivate ownershipofapublicresourcedil-; emma and the many conflicts that ariseasresult.Often,thoseownersare expectedtobearthecompleteresponsibiltyofrepairsandmaintenance, whichshefeelsisunfair.

“Thepropertyownersshouldnotbei responsibleformaintainingtheinfrastucturebythemselves,”shesays.

“Thesamelow-costloanswe'regiving tobusinessownersonCongressStreet weshouldbegivingtowaterfront business owners. Tax incentives, streamliningthepermitprocess—alot ofthesethingsdon’tcostmoney.”

Sanfordtellsofacommonproblem withmixed-usezoning,ofhow,inthe past,retailandresidentialusemight wellhavemeantthat“somestudents couldliveabovethelobsterpoundora candyshopcouldoperateaboveafish processor.”Nowthewordretailor residentialopensthedoorformulti¬ milliondollarcommercialcomplexes or condominium communities and thatsheisincontactwithindividuals fromBridgeport,ConnecticutandPhil¬ adelphia,Pennsylvaniawheresuch situationsthreatenlargeparcelsof deep-waterportfrontage.

Orlando Delogu, Universityof MaineSchoolofLawprofessorofland usecontrol,EnvironmentalLaw,and AdministrativeLaw,andaninitiatorof thereferendumandoneofthedrafters oftheproposal,remainssolidlycom¬ mittedtothecausehehelpedcham¬ pionin1987.Hisproof,hesays,tothe exasperationofhisopponents,isin theresults.

“Therehasbeensignificantexpan¬ sionofwater-dependentactivities.The fishauctionhasprospered,thecon¬ tainerpierhasopened,therehasbeen tour-boatexpansion,Merrill’sTermin¬ alisexpanding,andanewfishproces¬ sing plant... ।

Duringaperiodofrecession,the waterfronthasfaredverywell.”

Evenwiththesesuccesses,however, Delogusaysthereremainsroomfor improvement.

“Theremaybesomefinetuning,”hei says."Butthere'sabigleapbetween finetuningandsellingtheranch.”I

*FullBreakfastMenuAllDay! ★ Edna’s Made-Famous-From-Scratch Muffins! (Newfatcholesterol-freemuffins!) ★FreshGroundGourmetCoffee-Regular&Flavored ★ Complete Lunch & Dinner Menu! (DailySpecialsOffered!) *QualityFoodatAffordablePrices!

Bachelder’sTavern

Steakwithsalsa,chickenwithfiddleheads.

RestaurantReviewByMarkMickalide

Bachelder’sTavernisanewres¬ taurant,recentlycarvedfroma formerbedandbreakfast,thatis locatedonRoute126inLitch¬ field.Theintendedgoalofthe renovationsisupscalecasual,andthe menuisaFrench/Italianhybridwitha couple of American red herrings thrownin,steakwithsalsaandchick¬ enwithfiddleheads.

Fromthefourappetizerselections, we chose Mussels Topped with an HerbedShallotCreamSauce($4.95) andDuckPatewithOrangeGarnished withCornichon($4.95).Theother choices were Smoked Salmon and BabyAsparagus.Inthemusselappe¬ tizer,ahandfulofmusselstoppeda verygoodcreamandshallotsauce. TheDuckPatewasattractivelyserved onaduck-motifplateandgarnished with cornichons and three orange slices.Thepatewastoofinelyground intoanuninterestingtexturethatren¬ deredthetypeofmeatitwasmade fromunintelligable.Ialsoexpected orangetoplayamoreprominentrole inthepatethanathree-slicecameo appearance.

ForentreesweselectedSouthwes¬ ternSteakWithSalsaandChiliOnion Rings($19.50)andMaineSwordfish With Lemon, Tomatoes, and Olives ($14.50).Otherpossibilitiesincluded PoachedSalmon,RackofLamb,Veal Scallopine,severalpastas,andfour steakdishes.Oursteakwasaperfect mediumrare,verytenderandvery tasty.Thesalsawasfreshandnicely

hot.Havingtoenquireaboutthemis¬ singonionrings,Iwastoldthatpotatoshadbeensubstitutedinstead.

Theswordfishwasalsoperfectly cooked and outfitted as the menu described.Theeffectwaslightand refreshingbutabitdull.Therata¬ touille-likevegetablesandscalloped potatoeswereaboveaverageaccom¬ panimentstobothmeals.

Throughakitchenmixup,theen¬ treesshowedupwellbeforewecould completeourappetizers.Whenthe woman who had cooked the meals wascirculatinginthediningroom,1 toldherIfelt1hadbeenrushed throughthemeal.Herresponsewas,“1 didn’tknowwhatwasgoingonout hereand1wantedyoursteaktobe mediumrare.”

Beyondthespeedyentrees,other miscues included the wine being brbughttothetableopenedandmul¬ tiplerequestsformorewatergoing unanswered.Thefaultliesnotonthe staffbutonalackoftraining,luckilya solvableproblem.

Fromthetruncatedspokenlistof desserts we chose a crumbly and ratherdryhazelnuttortethatwas servedinapileinsteadofaslice.

Thereisawellpricedtnoughun¬ inspiringwinelist.

Bachelder’shascreatedapleasant placetogetamealinaneglectedpart ofthestate.Thefoodispreparedwith care,andasitisanewrestaurant,there iseveryreasontohopeforabright future. ■

AN EVENING OF ACTION-PACKED HARNESS RACING! PLUS!

LiveThoroughbredracingsimulcast from Aqueduct Park and Penn NationalRaceCourse.

VisitaRe-created EarlyNew EnglandVillage. RideaNarrow Gauge Steam Traintoan Exceptional AntiqueAuto& TruckDisplay.

Rt.27,Boothbay,Maine04537 (207)633-4727

Poolaw’s

Events

THEATER

TheLakewoodTheaterofSkowheganpresents FiddlerontheRoof July9throughJuly12, and July 15 through 18. UptheDownStair¬ caseplays July 23 through 26, and July 29 through August 1. From August 6 through 9, the Maine Opera Company will perform Gilbert&Sullivan'sH.M.S.Pinafore.Then,the theatercompanypresents WhoseLifeisit Anyway?, a drama about a young man who wouldratherdiethanliveapartiallifeparalyzed inahospitalbed August 13 to 16, and 19to 22. A thrillingSherlockHolmesmystery, The IncredibleMurderofCardinalTosca,issched¬ uled August 27 through 30, andSeptember2 to5.TherecentBroadwayhitcomedyLendme a Tenor,isonthebillfor September 10 to 13, and 16to19. Thisyear,thetheaterhasincluded anextraSundaymatinee-intheperformance schedules,inadditiontotheregularshowtimes of8p.m.,ThursdaythroughSaturday,andWed¬ nesdaymatinees.Inaddition,thefirstseasonof theLakewoodTheater's Young Performers' Campforchildrenages10through16willbegin June 29. Thecampconsistsoftwo,two-week sessionsinwhichskillsandperformancewillbe emphasized.Reservationsorinformationabout anyoftheseeventscanbeobtainedbywriting “CurtainUpEnterprises,"atRFD1,Box1780, Skowhegan, ME 04976, or by calling (207) 474-7176.

TheVintageRepertoryCompanywillpresent Noodle Doodle BoxatJordanHallonTemple AvenueinOceanPark,OldOrchardBeach, July 15,22,29, and August 5, 12, and 19. Thisis themostpopularchildren'splayinGermanyand highlyacclaimedthroughoutEurope.Fullof visualhumorandslapstickcomedy,it'salsoan engaginglessoninlearningtoshareandlive together...adelightfullyentertainingplayfor childrenofallages.Formoreinformationcall 828-4654.

TheMaineStateMusicTheaterpresentsJesus ChristSuperstar through July 25. July 28 through August 8: La Cage Aux Folles. August 11—August 22: Baby.Admissionis $12—$14.Matineesare2p.m.onWednesay, Friday,andSundaythefirstweekofeachshow andTuesday,Thursday,andSaturdaythesecond week.Eveningshowsareat8p.m.Tuesday— Saturday. July 20 marksthedateofPeter&the Wolfand August 15 ofTheGhostNet.Bothof thesespecialchildren'sshowsbeginat2:00p.m. Admissionis$4—$6.MemorialHall,Bowdoin College.P.O.Box656,Brunsick,ME04011.7258769or1-800-698-8769.

The60thanniversaryseasonoftheOgunquit Playhousecontinueswith Lettice & Lovage July 13 through July 25. Thehitmusical Damn Yankees plays July 27 to August 8.BreakingLegs,a"killinglyfunny"playis scheduledfor August 10 through 22, andPat CarrollstarsinNunsense,whichwillbeper¬ formed from August 24 to September 5. PerformancesareMondaythroughSaturdayat 8:30p.m.,withmatineesonWednesdayand

Thursdayat2:30p.m.Ticketsare$19forall shows,andtheboxofficeopens June 15. Call 646-5511forinformation.

TheTheateratMonmouthpresents Macbeth beginning July 16. Playboy of the Western WorldbyJonathanSingewillopenon August 1. Alloftheseperformancesrunthroughoutthe summer;callthetheatertoobtaindatesfor specificperformances.Ticketsare$16foradults, $14forseniorcitizens,students,andmatinee performances.Call933-9999.

DANCE

PortlandPerformingArts,25AForestAvenue, Portland,willsponsor Dance Portland: A Fes¬ tival for Maine Dance, tobeheld August 27 through 30. Thisfestivalwillincludeperfor¬ mances of new works by Maine dance com¬ paniesincludingRamIslandDance,thePort¬ landBalletCompany,theMaineStateBallet,and theCascoBayMovers.Activitiesassociatedwith thiseventincludethreeperformances,aseminar anddiscussiononbuildingdanceactivityin Maine,andthetwoweekresidenceofnationally knownchoreographerLisadeRibere.761-0591.

The1992BatesDanceFestivalwillopenits10th Anniversaryseasonwithaneveningoforiginal worksbyShapiro&SmithDance, noted New YorkmodernchoreographersJoanieSmithand Daniel Shapiro and their company of six dancers.Thisperformancewilltakeplaceon July 25 at8p.m.On July 30 and July31 at8 Doug Varone and Dancers, thecompany-inresidenceforthe1992Festival,willperform selectionsfromtheirrepertory,includingtheir widelyacclaimed1991work,“ForceMajeure.” ShowswilltakeplaceattheSchaefferTheater, BatesCollege,Lewiston.Admissionforthess performancesis$12/$7,andadvancereser¬ vationscanbeobtainedbycalling786-6161.

MUSIC

ThePortlandSymphonyOrchestrapresentsthe Picnic&Pops program July31 atFortWilliams ParkinCapeElizabeth,highlightedbythePSO debutofPortlandnativeviolinistJennifer Elowitch.Theconcertstartsat7:30p.m..Gates openat5:30p.m.Ticketsfrom$12.Call773-8191. BowdoinCollegepresentstheongoingBowdoin SummerMusicFestival. July24 Selectionsfrom JohnCorigliano’snewopera The Ghosts of Versailles withsopranosCarmenPeltonand BarbaraAnnMartin,tenorMarkBleakyandthe CassattStringQuartet. July 31 theCassatt StringQuartet and Abby Simon, piano, and RonaldRoseman,oboe.Bothperformancesat theFirstParishChurch,Brunswick,ME,8p.m. 725-3322.

The1992BarHarborMusicFestivalopens July 12 andrunsthroughAugust9.Includedinthe scheduleareperformancesbyEpicBrass, July 12, at8p.m.withabrassworkshopatIp.m.and PhilipThomson,pianistinrecital,at8:30p.m. withaworkshopat11a.m.attheBarHarbor CongregationalChurch.CharactersIncorpor-

Events

atedison July 18at8attheMountDesertIsland HighSchool.ThereisaTeaConcertfeaturing coloraturaNancyScimoneat4p.m. July 24 at 8:30p.m.FrancisFortier,violinistperformswith ColetteValentine,pianistattheBarHarbor CongregationalChurch.Alsoontheschedule areaneveningofColePortermusic,a"New Composers”concert,aJazznightwithbuffet dinner,andperformancesbytheBarHarbor MusicFestivalStringOrchestra.Forinformation andticketscall288-5744.

AtPortlandCityHallAuditoriumhearthetreas¬ uredKotzschmarorganinaseriesofconcerts this summer. July 28: Berj Zamkochian. August 4: John Weaver. August 11: Harold Stover. August 18: RobertLove. August 25: Thomas Murray. September 1: Douglas Major.Allat7:30p.m.Alsofivedifferent organistsonfiveThursdaynoontimeswill presentinformalandinformativedemonstra¬ tions showing how the Mighty Kotzschmar works!Call874-8438.

PortlandRecreationpresentstheSummerinthe Parksmusicschedule. Chandler’s Band plays atFortAllenparkgazeboat7:30p.m.on July16, 23, 28, and 30. Al Hawkes and hisString FusionplayatDeeringOaks July28, at7p.m. JimGallantacousticguitarinstrumentalist, plays July 29, andfolkers Darien Brahms (August 5,) and LisaGallant (August 12) on theWesternPromat7:30.New England Jazz plays August 4, andOnlyMotionsplays Aug¬ ust11 atDeeringOaksparkat7p.m.Call8748793,or874-8300x8791.

MUSEUMS

The Jones Museum Of Glass and Ceramics, DouglasHill,04024presents TheSearchfor Porcelain,featuringWilliamR.Sargent,the actingcuratoroftheAsianArtDepartmentatthe PeabodyMuseumofSalemon August 22, and theGeorgeO.BirdMemorialLecturebyJon¬ athanFairbanks,curatoroftheAmericanDecor¬ ativeArtsdepartmentoftheBostonMuseumof FineArts on September 19. $19.50(includes luncheon).787-3370.

TheSpringPointMuseumatSouthernMaine TechnicalCollege,FortRoad,SouthPortland, 04106,presentstheSpringPointFestival on August 15, and a CivilWarLivingHistory Encampmentby1stMaineHeavyArtilleryat FortPreble,directlyadjacenttotheMuseumon August 15-16at 10a.m.to4pm.Themuseum’s special1992exhibitionis"OurSideofTown,” featuringthehistoryoftheuniqueneighbor¬ hoodsofSouthPortlandandCapeElizabeth. Thiscommunity-basedexhibitwillcontinueto developandgrowinthecomingmonthsaslocal residentsandgroupssharewithvisitorsvarious objectsandimagestellingthemanystoriesof theneighborhoodsandvillageswhichmakeup SouthPortlandandCapeElizabeth.Visitorswill alsobeguidedthroughthearchaeologicalcon¬ servationlaboratorywhichdocumentsandpre¬ servesthebowof Snow Squall, theworld’slast survivingexampleofanAmerican-builtclipper ship.BuiltinCapeElizabethin1851,thisvessel waspartiallyrecoveredfromtheFalkland

Aeufnai^^Mqriqe

36 HotwidFBCRSR.

doM 23 >ox<«K**wvcerdKn $18X000

S*Mp» aa $45

Many othera available In pleasure and commercial, powerandMil,newandused.Callanytime. IfyouhaveaJarvisNewman.Bunker&Ells.Wilbur.Hinckleyex otherhneyacht,callusWearealwayslookingtormoretop listingstomatchtothecustomerswhohavecontactedus.

RUSS WORR/CK, BROKER P.O.BOX886,BarHarbor,ME04609 (207)288-5300_

Events

■waspartiallyrecoveredfromtheFalkland Islandsinthe1980s.799-6337.

iTheMaineMaritimeMuseum,243Washington IStreet,Bath,presentsWhenBathIronwonthe America's Cup,anexhibitiondescribingthe constructionofthefamousJ-sloopRangerbuilt bytheBathIronWorksforasuccessfuldefense ofthe1937Cupraces,and beginning July 27 BornfromCoasting:TheMaineArtofJohn Leavitt.Theseexhibitswillrunthrougoutthe summer;formoreinformation,call443-1316.

PenobscotMarineMuseum,Searsport,Maine. Bound for Whampoaisthisyear’sstunning exhibitionofartandartifactsoftheOrient.Learn aboutthevoyagesofSearsportcaptainsaround CapeHornandaheadtotheChinaTrade,the decorativeartsthattheybroughtbackand transformedtheirhomeswith,andthethelife theylivedatsea,aswellasthatlivedbytheir familiesathome.Outstandingexhibitionsof rareChineseexportandJapaneseexportChina. Open through October 15, Monday through Saturday,9:30to5p.m.;Sunday,1p.m.to5p.m. 548-2529.

ThePortlandMuseumofArt,7CongressSquare, 04101,presentsseveralspecialexhibitsaswell astheregulargallerythissummer. Winslow Homer Watercolors through September 6; The China Trade through July 30. TheIm¬ pressionistsandOtherMasters:ArtistsYou Love,TheElegantAugo:FashionandDesign in the 1930s, The Holocaust, Endangered Landscapes:ConeyIslandandOtherBright Legends,TheScottM.BlackCollection,Amer¬ icanGalleries, and SilentWitness, all on¬ going. 775-6148.

HalfDay9—12or1—4$30/person FullDay9—4$65/person (Juncbincluded) Sunset6-8$20/person RESERVATIONS: (207)233-7687 (207)766-2751

PenobscotMarineMuseum,Searsport,Maine. Bound for Whampoaisthisyear'sstunning exhibitionofartandartifactsoftheOrient.Learn aboutthevoyagesofSearsportcaptainsaround CapeHornandaheadtotheChinaTrade,the decorativeartsthattheybroughtbackand transformedtheirhomeswith,andthethelife theylivedatsea,aswellasthatlivedbytheir familiesathome.Outstandingexhibitionsof rareChineseexportandJapaneseexportChina. Open through October 15, Monday through Saturday,9:30to5p.m.;Sunday,1p.m.to5p.m. 548-2529.

MISCELLANEOUS

Southworth Planetarium. USM, 90 Falmouth Street,Portland,presentsseveralastronomy(A TouroftheSolarSystem.TheBirthandDeathof Stars,TheMarsShow,What’sUpandWhere)at7 p.m.and laserlightconcerts,includingPink Floyd’s“DarkSideoftheMoon"and“Sonofthe Well-TemperedLaser,"featuringclassicalse¬ lectionsofBeethoven,Mozart,Copelandand othersat8:30onFridayandSaturdayevenings. There are also Saturday shows for young children,suchas Stars, Dragons, and Me introducingtheplanetarium,andAlligatorinthe ElevatorwithmusicianRickCharetteat3p.m. Thisisanoutstandingregionalattraction. Ticketsare$2.50/children,and$3/adults.

20DanforthSt,Portland,ME04101 Telephone’207-761-4278

MARINE EXHAUST, INC.

Marine fabrication in Stainless Steel and Aluminum New For 1992: Aluminum Fuel Tanks, Coast Guard CertifiedandApproved Also Complete Line ofExhaustWrapinStock 30 Water Street Thomaston, ME 04861 (207) 354-0004

DealersInquiriesInvited

artreproductions

reproduction

'Oneofthethings I'velearnedafter tenyearsand twenty-twofine isthatitisnot possibleto achievean excellent withoutthefinest high-qualitycolor separationsthat ChamplainColor hasconsistently providedus.‘

’ Edward Gordon on ' Champlain Color

Empty Rooms, alkydonpanel,1984,34*x24"

Stillness, alkydonpanel,1989,27*x 31

Dream Dancing, alkydonpanel,1990,31"x33"

All artwork © 1991, Edward Gordon, P.O. Box 337, Walpole, NH 03608

York Harbor, Maine 03911 or phone (207) 363-3867 ,Alsosculpture,Jeweleryandmor&.

“Coldest

•ArriveviamailboatfromStonington

•AdjacenttoAcadiaNationalPark

•Ratesincludeallmeals

Fur information and reservations P.G.Box26,IsleAuHaul.ME046-15 267-367-2261

Events

TheGreatStateofMaineAirshowwillbeheld July25&26 attheNavalAirStation,Brunswick andwillfeaturetheU.S.NavyBlueAngelsJet DemonstrationTeam.Civilianandmilitaryavia¬ tionactsandstaticdisplayswillfilloutthis excitingfun-filledfamilyeventwhichisFREE andopentothepublic.921-2364.

The Downeast Polo Club plays at the Cum¬ berland County Fairgrounds on Saturdays through October. P.O.Box6174,FalmouthME 04105.846-5527.

SundayRiverMountain,P.O.Box450,Bethel,ME 04217,presentstheEast’sFirstLift-ServedBike Park.Theparkoffersawiderangeoftrailsfor mountainbikersofeveryabilitylevel,including eightmilesofnewtrails.Opendailythrough LaborDay.824-3000.

TheNewGloucesterHistoricalSocietypresents Country Gardens July19, from10a.m.to4 p.m.,rainorshine.Eightgardenswillbeopen, andtherewillbedemonstrations,displays, hayrides,andrefreshmentsaswell.926-3469.

The Casco Firemen's Association presents Casco Days July23,24,&25 attheCascoDay ParkonRoute121.Eventsincludefireworks,a chickenbarbeque,midway,children'sparade, Cloggerdemonstrations,aroadrace,parades, publicsupper,andprizes.627-4201.

TheThomasMemorialLibrary,6ScottDyer Road,CapeElizabeth,presents A Show of Woodturnings,BurlsinNaturalEdge,Hollow andOpenForm, Through August 1.

The Sebascodegan Garden Club presents an HistoricEastHarpswellHousetour August 27. VisithistoricsitesonDingleyIsland,Bethel Point,andCundy’sHarborRoad.725-7725.

Lightship Nantucket, MaineWharf,Portland. HistorycanbefounddocksideatMaineWharf, offPortland'sCommercialStreet.

AnintegralpartofEastCoastsealanesof communication,lightshipslocatedat46stations fromMainetoFloridaguidedoceancommerce throughtreacherouswaterwaysandwelcomed manyasea-wearytravellertoAmerica'sshores. Oneofthemostimportantofthelightship stations was Nantucket Shoals, where the LightshipNantucketandhersisterships,known as“StatuesofLibertyoftheSea,"werestationed forpartofthe129-yearhistoryofthelightships. NantucketShoalswasthelastactivelightship stationinAmerica,retiringherlastcrewin1983.

Nowafullyoperationalseagoingmuseum— oneofonlythreeintheUnitedStates—Lightship Nantucket,whichstillcruisesinsummer,is openforvisitsfromMaythroughSeptember,10 a.m.to4p.m..WednesdaythroughSunday. OctoberthroughApril,thelightshipoperates10 a.m.to4p.m.Saturdaysandnoonto4p.m. Sundays.Admissionis$3foradults,$1.50for childrenandseniors;$7maximumperfamily. ParkingisavailableattheMaineStatePier parkinggarageoralongCommercialStreet.

—Michael Spinney

PLUS of SCARBOROUGH

Classifieds

I850's GreekRevivalhomewith4 bedrooms, 4 fireplaces, 4/zbaths.Waterviewsfrommost windows Ocean ROW NationalExcellentcondition.177 Aaes./treasonableofltoconsidered

Splendid 4 story custom cape in very dramatic ocean setting with rocky frontage and deepwater dock. Oak post and beam framing. Private Absolute quality 3 Acres.$500's

Large 5 bedroom custom builtcontemporarysitedonhigh point of land with 180 degree views of Casco Bay Ownership indeepwaterdockincludedQuality 3+Acres Now. 355,000

ENERGY EFFICIENT ACTIVE & PASSIVE SOLAR HOME Architectdesignedcontemporaryhome,nestledintothecontoursofthislovely woodedsite.Light-filled,thishomesitsonaslopeoverlookingayear-roundtrout brook.Anexceptionalpropertyof2,400sq.ft.oflivingspacewithVermont CastingsStoveandandtop-qualityconstruction.Additionalroomover2-car garageforaskylightedapartmentalreadyplumbedforbathroomandkitchenette. LocatedincoastalNorthport8milesnorthofCamdenand8milessouthofBelfast witheasyaccesstoRte.1,onlyminutesfromyachtclubs,golfcourses,fine hospitalsandyear-roundculturalcentersineitherdirection.

AdditionalListings: 1.4-acrebuildingsiteinBayside. 16acreswithbayviewsandnicelywooded. Gentleman'sfarm,organicgardens,andbayviews. 4-bedroomhome,withAppleOrchardonRouteINorthport. BrickstorefrontwithapartmentinSearsport.

Aquq-TerrqEnterprises

Capt. GeorgeH.and Armit C.Jennings

Maine 04011 • 207-729-2820

A1'/2-story,4-bedroomCapewith1982sq.ft.oflivingarea. Pre-cut panelized kit from Northern Homes for $61,049. delivered in Maine. Red-cedar clapboard siding. Andersen high-R-valuewindowsandmore.Forbrochureofmorefloor plansandconsumer'sguide,send$20to:

RareindeedisthecombinationoftheperfecthouseintheperfectsettingRarerstillisthe opportunitytoacquiresuchagematatrulyrealisticprice!Thiscentury-oldColonialhas beentotallyredonetoprovidealloftoday'sconvenienceswhileretainingthecharmof yesteryearWith465feetofyourownsandybeachontheocean,and390feetoffrontage onpeacefulLilyPond,eachandeveryroomcommandsenchantingwaterviews.

Thelargelivingroomanddelightfulsunroom,eachwithfireplace,overlookbothocean andpond(asdoesthemasterbedroom).Spaceabounds,withabout2300SFofliving areaThe3bedroomsareservedby3baths(onewithjacuzzi).Thekitchenwillplease thededicatedorcasualcook.

Thisspecialpropertyislocatedonly20minutessouthofPortlandandanhour40minutes fromBoston,andcanonlybedescribedasirreplaceable!$499,000.

lustattheentrancetothetownfromSiAndrews'StJohnhighway, andontyacouple pt milesfromtheStStephervCaiMborder cros&ngitwasbu*approximatelytodyyearsago.Dirngthepast suyears,thepresentownershaverefurtxshed,refurnished, recarpeted,andalsoupdatedthekitchenappliancesequ<>mert anddishesTherestaurantisrexceaentcondfton.andhasdone we«ftnanc«*y—4aanexceBertopportunity

FerryVillage Landing

SouthPortland

$159,900-$169,900

LocateddirectlyontheedgeofPortlandHarboraffordingbreathtaking viewsoftheoceanandthePortlandskyline.Unsurpassedqualityof construction,designandfinishworkishighlyevidentthroughouteach ofthefiveremaining2bedroom,21/2bathresidences.Theparking garage,servicedbyanelevatorandtwostairwells,providestwospaces perunit.AfewofthenumerousamenitiesincludeSie-maticEuropean kitchencabinets;fireplace;skylights;fullysprinklered;extremeenergy efficiency;whirlpooltub.anda view thatissecondtonone.

DAVENPORT BY THE SEA

Old Orchard Beach

$79,900 - $89,900

1400-1800sq.ft. 2/3bedrooms 11/2baths

EasycommutetoPortland Fireplace

Easywalktobeach

Lowmaintenancefee Skylights Garage Ownerfinancing

Averyspeciallocation-20minutesfromPortlandandtheMaineMall -overlookinganenormouswildlifesanctuary-Theseattractively designedcondominiumunitsmakeaperfectvacationhomeor very affordableyearroundresidence.

RYAN FARMS

Saco

AffordableHousingStartingat$84,900

Minutesfromschools,downtownSacoandExit5,thisneighborhood ofqualityaffordablehomesfeaturesundergroundutilities,public waterandsewer,playground,ampleopenspaceandmuchmore

TheVillageat

Boothbay Harbor Startingat$129,900

Awardwinning 20lotsinglefamilysubdivisionclusteredarounda4+ acre,towncommon intheNewEnglandtradition.Over40%oftheentire parcelisdedicatedtoopenland.Lotsizesrangefromapprox.1/2to1 acreandfeaturepublicwaterandsewer,undergroundutilities,and walkingdistancetochurchesandschools.Startingat$54,900.

Parker Head Peninsula

Phippsburg

Startingat$150,000

Fivetotenacrehomesiteswithwaterfrontageatthemouthofthe KennebecRivernearBath.Theselotsoffer spectacularviews ofthe KennebecandtheAtlantic!Lessthananhour'sdrivefromPortland InternationalJetport.Establishedneighborhoodofqualityhomes.

KENNEBEC SHORES

Woolwich

$125,000

5+acrelotslocatedontheKennebecjustacrossfromBath. CountrysettingoffofRte.127withover200ft.ofshorefrontage.

Whetheryoumeasurebycostpersquarefoot,qualityofconstructionor qualityofviews-theseluxuriouscondominiumhomeswillexceedyour expectations.Eachoftheeightremaining1800-2100sq.ft.unitsfeature oilfiredhotwaterbaseboardheat,energyefficientglass,superinsula¬ tion,attachedgarageandmore!Oneofthebestvaluesonthemarketand locatedinoneofthepremierboatingareasontheeastcoast._

Mattress Moving

“Say,let’sgetthisbagofgoosefeathersontheroad!”

NewFictionBySanfordPhippen

SothattheTitcombs,ourmost prestigiousguestsofeverysea¬ son,couldvisitwithusinthe comforttheyhadcometoexpect over many summers on the Mainecoast,HattiePinkham,thehead waitress,andIhadtomovemattresses.

MissMeyer,thebossladyofFrench¬ man’sBayManor,toldusthatMr. Titcombhadbacktrouble,sowehad toexchangethemattressfromhistwin bedinNumberFour,whichheandhis wifewouldbeoccupyingforthewhole monthofAugust,withanotherfrom downthehallinNumberEleven.His backrequiredthefirmestmattresswe had.

Afterasummerofsuchexchanging andmovingthingsaround,HattieandI haddubbedourselves"FoxandGinn” afteraprominentmovingvanoutfitin EasternMaine.

AfterbreakfastthatdaytheTitcombs wereduetoarrive,andwhileCaroline, theregularchambermaid,wasbusy attendingtoallherregularduties, Hattieand1vacatedourdownstairs poststoassumeourmovingmenposi¬ tionsonthesecondstoiy.

“Shewouldpickaroomtenmiles downthehalltoswitchwith!”Hattie exclaimed.

“Maybe the mattress in Number ElevenisjustrightforMr.Titcomb’s back,”Isaid.

“Whomeasuredandtested?Allthe bedsinthisjointfeelthesametome.”

“Haveyousleptonthemall,Hattie?”

Sheregardedmewithasarcastic grin.

“No, but we had a chambermaid hereoncewhodid.MissMeyerwould missheraftershedidn’tappearfor lunch, and someone would run up hereandcheckandusuallyshe’dbein slumberlandinoneoftheguest’sbeds. Guess she must have had trouble sleepingathome."

Mattresses,aswellasanythingelse

bigandbulky,wereawkwardtomove throughthenarrowhallsanddoor¬ waysoftheoldhouse,especiallyifthe people moving them were laughing theirheadsoff.

Hattiewouldsing,“YaGottaGivea Little,TakeaLittle...”ortothetuneof “FrankieandJohnny,”asuggestive melody, particularly when moving mattresses,suchas“Ro-11meo-ver easy..ro-llmeo-verslow..."

Whenshehadmelaughingsohard thatIcouldn’tfunction,Hattiewould chuckle,raiseaneyebrow,andask, “What’syourproblem,Ginn?You’ve droppedyourend!Youbetterwatchit oryou’llfindyourselfworkingfor Cole’sExpress.Say,let’sgetthisbagof goosefeathersontheroad!One,Two, Three—hike! Don’t wet your pants now,An-day!Isuredon’twanttostand herealldaystuckinadoorsill.God knows,IgototherthingsIcouldbe doing...”

Atonepointinourmattress-moving, onajobotherthanthatfortheTit¬ combs,Hattieand1hadalotoftrouble gettingaboxspringforadoublebed shovedthroughanothernarrowdoor¬ way.Thethingstuckhalfwaythrough, andwithustuggingandpullingevery whichway,Hattiestartedsinging “Something’sGottaGive.”

Thatday,though,finally,themat¬ tresswasmoved,theroomwassetin order,thesameroomtheTitcombs hadbeenrentingforyears,withfresh flowersandplentyofwoodforthe fireplace;andweawaitedtheen¬ croachmentofourperfectguests.

Theyarrivedexactlywhentheysaid theywould,andpaidtwoweeksof theirmonth’sstayinadvance.They werealwayssograteful-appearingfor allthatwedidforthem,andkindlyin theircomments,thatwealwaysdid moreforthemthananyoneelse.They leftlargeweeklytipsfortheentirestaff. Theywerealwayspleasant,cordial, andthoughtfultoeveryoneatthe Manor,guestsandstaffmembersalike. Isawthemas“richpeoplewithclass.” Theyoftenhadinfluential,and,asI foundoutlater,notablepeopletodine attheirdinnertablefrequently.They alsohadatragicpastforustogossip about.1hadreadaboutitinWTro’s Who, where under Mr. Titcomb’s name,thestorywasbrieflytoldofhis cominghomeonenightinNewYorkto findthathisfirstwifehadkilledtheir twochildrenandherself.Thepresent Mrs.Titcomb,thesecondwife,had beenhissecretary.

Theirs appeared to be a deeply lovingrelationship.AndwithMr.Tit¬ comb,asanex-headofoneofthe world’smightiestfoundations,and brothertooneofourcountry’smost importanttheologians,theywerecele¬ bratedandfamouspeoplethemselves, tobenurturedandcaredformost

exactingly.

IhadneverseenHattieasrespectful towards anyone as she was to the Titcombs.“Ilovethesepeople,"she said.“They’vegotrealstyle.Nothing phony about 'em. They know what life’sallabout,andyettheykeeptheir dignity.”

verymorningitwasoneofmy dutiestodelivertheNew York TimestoMr.Titcombassoonas itcamein,adayortwolate.He studiedtheTimeslikeaBibleor alawbook.

E“Ilovethese people,”shesaid. ‘‘They’vegotreal style.Nothing phonyabout’em. Theyknowwhat life’sallabout, andyettheykeep theirdignity.”

Theyusedthetelephonemoreand receivedmorecallsthananyother guests, for they seemed to know everyone who was someone in the MountDesertIslandarea.Everyafter¬ noon,theTitcombsmissedlunchbe¬ causeoftheirbusyvisitingschedule. Butbeforetheyleftfortheday,they’d alwayspaytheirrespectstothestaff, anactthatendearedthemtous,letting us,theirservants,inontheirlivesthat way.

Mrs. Titcomb, who was much youngerthanherhusband,didthe drivingoftheirOldsmobile,butevery nightwhenitcametimeforthemtoput theircarinthegarage—theonlyguests at the Manor who ever did so—Mr. Titcombassumedthepositionbehind thewheel.Itwassuchafunnylittle ceremonytoseehimdoingthisevery night,asifhewereprovingtohimself andothersthatdespitehisadvanced age,hecouldstillparkhisowncarin thegarage.

Mr.TitcomblovedMrs.Spurling’s grahamcrackerpie.Shewasthepastry chef;andshe’dmadeatleastonepiea weekespeciallyforhim.Healwaysate everycrumbofthelargepiecewe servedhim,exceptforonetimewhen hereturnedhalfofhispieuneaten.

HEALTH CARE NOT DISEASE CARE

Uponexaminationthereasonforthis inexplicableactionbecamedisgust¬ inglyapparentwiththefindofadead flyintheremainingportionofthe dessert.

Thestorywas brieflytoldof hiscominghome onenightin NewYorktofind thathisfirstwife hadkilledtheir twochildrenand herself.Thepresent Mrs.Titcomb,the secondwife,had beenhissecretary.

“Errr,”saysMissMeyer,whoalways clearedherthroatbeforespeaking, “thisisawful.Animmediateapology mustbemade.Hattie,wouldyougoat oncetotheTitcombs?”

“Sure,butwhatdoIsay—howdid youlikethelittleextra-addedattrac¬ tioninyourpie?We’reexperimenting, folks!You’veheardofShoo-fly-pie? Well, we thought we’d try Graham CrackerFlyPie!”

“Err...no.Justtellhimhowvery sorryweareandhowitwillnothappen again."

“Right.We’llnowaddfly-inspection toourlistofdinnerduties.”

ButMr.Titcombwasagentleman withasenseofhumor,andhelaughed offthewholeincidentthenextdayin thekitcheninthefearfulpresenceof MissMeyerandMrs.Spurling,who whenshewaspreparingherpastries, wouldwindatowelaroundherhead. Hattie and I had dubbed her “The ShriekofAraby.”

“Pleasedon’tbesoupsetbythefly inmypie,ladies,”Mr.Titcombsaid. “Worsethingshaveoccurredinmy life,youmaybeassured.Ihavelostno faithinthequalityofyourmealprepar¬ ations.Infact,Ilookforwardtothe menu for this evening.” B

"MovingMattresses"willbeappearingin SanfordPhippen’snewnovel, KitchenBoy, slatedforcompletionthissummer.

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