“Maggie the Messmaker” by Charles Wysocki ThelatestofWysocki’sbeguiling catportraits. 6500onpapersignedand numbered. Imagesize18"x215/8” $190.00ppd.Visa,MC. Me.res.add6%salestax.
“SolitaryHaven” by Ed Rajferty Escapetothisspecialplace. Availableasasigned, limitededtionprintof500. Imagesize175/8"x19" $135.00ppd.Visa,MC. Me.res.add6%salestax.
“Island in Bloom" bySallyCaldwellFisher Over100colorsareusedinthis handsomelimitededitionserigraph. Imagesize25”x30”.Editionof200. $765.00ppd.Visa,MC. Me.res.add6%salestax.
PRINTS, POSTERS, LIMITED EDITION PRINTS. CUSTOM FRAMING, ORIGINAL ART
/ ecent advances in dental technology have greatlyimprovedthepossibilityofhaving thatsmileyou'vealwaysdreamedof. Yoursmileprovidesafirstimpressionto everyone you meet. Ifyouareself-consciousabouthowyour teethlook,wecanhelp.
Thenewmaterialsandtechniquesavailable allowustochangethecolor,shapeorsiz.eof yourteeth-manytimesinonly one appointment. Calltodayandaskusabout bleaching, bonding, crowns, implants and veneers.
Colin Sargent Founding Editor A Publisher
Nancy Sargent Art Director
Karen Stevens-Bartok Publisher's Assistant
Michael Sullivan Advertising Director
Karyn Jenkins Production
Johanna Hanaburgh Copy Editor
Gwen Thompson Calendar Editor
Kevin LeDuc Photographer
Colin S. Sargent Production Assistant
Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing. Inc.. 578 Congress Street. Portland, ME 04101. All corre¬ spondence should be addressed to 578 Congress Street. Portland. ME 04101.
Advertising Office: 578 Congress Street, Portland, ME 04101 (207) 775-4339.
Billing Questions: If you have questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Karen StevensBartok at (207) 775-4339.
Newsstand Cover Date: Summerguide 1996. published June 1996, Vol. 11. No. 4. copyright 1996. Portland Maga¬ zine is mailed al third-class mail rales in Portland. ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions ofPortland Magazine. Responsible only for that portion of any adver¬ tisement which is primed incorrectly, and as compensation we will nm a correction in the following issue. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we lake no responsibility for unsolicited materials.
Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing. Inc.. 578 Congress Street. Portland, with newsstand cover dales of Winterguidc. February/March. April, May. Summerguide. July/August. September. October, November, and December.
|Descriptivecatalog$2.00| FieldstoneGardens,Inc. 620 Quaker Lane
Vassalboro,Maine04989 I>1IONE/1'AX207-923-3836
CANADIAN LOG HOMES
PROVEN" SOLID-TIMBER BUILDING SYSTEM
COMPUTER CUSTOM DESIGNEDTO YOUR EXACT SPECIFICATIONS
OUTSTANDING QUALITY AT VERY COMPETITIVE PRICES
RIVERBEND LOG HOMES
P.O. BOX 411 NACKAWIC NEW BRUNSWICK CANADA EOH 1PO 1-8OO-561-3OOO
Now We Can’t Even Dream?
Withdistasteanddismay,Ihave justreadyourenclosedwrite-up of your planned “Maine’s Dream Islands”feature.Ihadhopedthat thedaywaswellpastwhenMaine islands were reviewed and pro¬ motedlikerestaurants.
Icommentasanislandowner,as one who has roamed among the islandsbyboatallofmylife,and as one who for 25 years has worked to conserve the scenic, natural,andculturalqualitiesof Maine’scoastalislands.Aformer executivedirectorofMaineCoast HeritageTrust,Icurrentlyamco¬ ordinatingtheislandconservation workoftheTrust,andIsitonthe boardofdirectorsoftheIsland Institute...
...Maine’sislandsarefarmore fragilethangraniterocks,sturdy spruce,andhardyislandersmay suggest. The islands are under siegeandthreatenedasneverbe¬ fore by the growing hordes of summervisitorsattractedbythe unendingpromotionoftheMaine coast.Freshwaterresourcesare particularlylimitedinquantity andvulnerabletosaltwaterintru¬ sionandcontaminationresulting fromtheineffectivenessofthin islandsoilstofilteroutharmful bacteriaandtoxicmetals.Bird habitatisveryvulnerabletodis¬ turbance by human visitors and petsduringthenestingseason,to lossofrelativelylargeundis¬ turbedacreagestosubdivision, andtopollutionoftheflatsused bysomespeciesasfeedingareas. The scenic drama and majesty hasbeenbadlyimpairedinsome areasbypoorlysitedhousesof incongruousarchitecturaldesign ...Theislandsasarecreational resourceofthehighestorderare increasinglybeingclosedoffby “notrespassing”signs.Andthe traditionalwaysoflifetreasured byislandersareincreasinglyim¬ pacted by the mobs pouring off
...Foranumberofgenerations, most islands have been in the handsofpeoplewithdeeplovefor theMainecoastandagoodunder¬ standingofitsculture,traditions, andecology.Inrecentyears,how¬ ever,theislandshavebeenat¬ tractingbuyerswhoarenewto Maineandhavelesssensitivityto whatmakesitspecial...
Ben Emory
MaineCoastHeritageTrust
NortheastHarbor
Someofyoursuggestions,thoughtoolongtoreprint here, are excellent, and as a result we’ve asked environmental essayist Paul Karr to write a com¬ panionessaytoourDreamIslandspieceonsensitivity (which we’ve addressed in some form every year). Hutreadingyourletter,Icouldn'thelpbutwonder,Did Godgiveyouyourisland?Youandyourfamilywere islandbuyersyourselvesonce!Nooneeverinherited anislandbydivinerighl-notyouandnotevenPeggy Rockefeller,thefoundinginspirationforyourMaine CoastHeritageTrust,whoinheritedhermoneyatthe expenseofasmogfillednation(JohnD.Rockefeller, StandardOil,et.al.).Your“distaste’’forthe“growing hordes”andthe“mobspouringoffferries"betraysthe classissuesthathidebehindthemembershipofmany island protection organizations which otherwise promotenoblecauses.Onceagain,it'san“I'vegot mine, and you can’t have yours" situation where 30 years ago a cigar-smoking industrialist bought his island and now all of a sudden he’s talking about ‘estuarineresources’and‘naturalhabitats.’
Come and see Maine’s unique railroadheritage,the world famous collectionoftwo-foot gauge cars and engineson displayandoperatingatthe Portland Company located on beautifulCascoBay.
Borninalittlehousenear theisland’sferrylanding, shewasthefirstofHorace and Philomene Nelson’s eightchildren.Herpar¬ entsgaveheraChristianname:Mary Alice.Buttheyandeveryoneelseon
QualityImportedOrientalRugs
Molly Spotted Elk us she appeared in Tex Guinan’sclubs,NewYork.1928.Courtesyof Jean /L Moore.MollySpottedElk’sdaughter, whowroteapostscripttotheauthor’sveryfine Molly Spotted Elk. A Penobscot In Paris, nom¬ inatedthisyearforaPulitzerPrize.
theislandpronouncedittheIndian way:Molliedellis.Philomenewasthe seventh daughter of a seventh daughter,abirthrightwhichPenobscotsbelievedenhancedherworkas atraditionalhealer.Shewasalsoa basketmaker—one of the best on a reservationknownforfinebasketry. Horace,avoraciousreader,attend¬ edDartmouthCollege.Butafterone year,hequittheassimilationtrackto returnhome,wherehepursuedwork that responded to the seasons— hunting,fishing,gardening,canoe¬ building, rowing the ferry be¬ tweenIndianIslandandthemain¬ land,andhawkingbasketstosum¬ mertourists.HealsoplayedFrench horn in the Penobscot Band, and servedtermsastribalchiefandas
drawn to the world beyond Indian Island.Afterreachingthelimitsofthe reservation’s Catholic mission school,sheattendedpublicschool onthemainland.UnlikemostPenobscotsofhergeneration,shewaswill¬ ingtoendureracisthecklingtoget aneducation.Atageseventeen,refer-
Writtenwithalyricalquality,thisbook presentsthestoryofanambitiousyoung lady born on a reservation who became thetoastofEurope.“EnrichedbyMolly’s diariesandbyfreelancerMcBride’s interviews with those who knew her,thisisafirst-ratetellingofan unusuallife story."-Kirkus Re¬ views. “Anirresistiblestory. ..’’-The New York Times Book Review.
As the oldest child, Molly was expected to help careforandsupporther siblings.Beyondhouse¬ hold and babysitting duties,thismeantpeddlinghermoth¬ er’sbakedgoodsandbasketsdoorto doorandparticipatinginsweetgrass braiding parties until her hands ached.Also,beginninginherteenage years,itmeantleavinghomeeach summertoperforminIndianvaude¬ villetroupes.Faithfully,shesentthe bulkofhermodestearningstoher mother,tellingherdiary,“Givingmy heartandsoultomydancingandmy career to help my [family] is my task.”
Onstage,Mollyfacedtheschizo¬ phrenicjeersandcheersofwhite audiencesthatcouldnotdecideif Indians were backward savages or nobleiconsofnature.Afteroneshow sheconfidedtoherdiary:“Cried afterperformance.Why?Heardacut¬ tingremark.”Sometimesshefought back,asevidencedinthisjournal entry:“Afrontrowcouplemadefun ofus.Iflirtedwiththefellowandthe girlbecamesilent.”Inanotherin¬ stance,shechallengedanaudience’s insultsbywritingwhatshecalled“a criticismonracialfeelingtotheBos¬ tonTelegram.”
1-800-627-7377
InherearlytwentiesMollystudied journalismandanthropologyatthe UniversityofPennsylvania,encour¬ agedbyanthropologistFrankSpeck, whotaughtthereandwhoseNative American research included long sojournsatIndianIsland.Inschool she reached beyond the bounds of herdiarywithherwritingandhad severalpoemspublished.But,short offunds,MollyleftPhiladelphiaafter ayeartoworkintheMillerBrothers’ 101RanchWildWestShow.LikeBuf¬ faloBill’sWildWest,101featuredcalf roping,bull-doggingandotherrodeo stunts,plusmockIndianmassacres
aimlessandboredduetothedread¬ fullackofworkopportunitiesthere, theyhadresortedtowildwestshows foralivelihoodandforadiversion fromtheirplight.EvengreatIndian heroes had grabbed at shows as a laststrawforsurvivalandanalterna¬ tivetoassimilation:SiouxchiefSit¬ tingBull,SiouxholymanBlackElk, andthedistinguishedOglalaorator chiefFlatIron.Butothers,suchas hereditarySiouxchiefChaunceyYel¬ lowRobe,publicallyandvehemently criticized these productions as demoralizingshowcasesthatdegrad¬ edtribalcustoms.Mollycametothe sameconclusion.Withinayearshe quit101,sickofacircusatmosphere thatmockedtraditionsandstarved herartisticsoul.
Assuming the name Molly Spotted Elk, she moved to New York City, where she modeled for a host of artists and danced in Broadway revues and nightclubs. Soon she gainedrenownforherperformances atTexasGuinan’sfamousspeakeasy. There,wearinganeagle-featherhead¬ dress—andlittleelse—shedelighted thehighsocietycrowdthatfrequent¬ edtheclub.
would-besuitorswaitingforher. Unsureofhersocialstandingamong moneyedwhitemen,shewashighly skepticaloftheirintentions.This comment about one of her genteel admirersistypical:“Wenattheclub toseeme.Buthismotherhashigher hopesforherson[and]hisinterest inmeismerefascination—anovelty toseeifIamhuman.”
ofidealprimitivelifeontheexotic “sexysavage”dancingfortheirplea¬ sure.“RodsaysI’mlikeawildhorse andhavetobemadetame,”shetold herdiary.“I’mtiredofhearingallthis rubbish about sex appeal—makes mesick.”Sometimesanaudience’s clicheideasandcommentsabouther identitysentwavesofinsecurity washingoverher.Yet,sheseemsto havefeltthathershore,reinforced bynativeroots,wasamoralhigh ground;deepwithinsheknewthat she was much more than society’s narrowimageofher.
because it was a silent picture released amid a flurry of new “talkies.”Characteristically,Molly usedhersubstantialearningsfrom thisfilmtobuyahomeforherfamily.
ack in New York, Molly grewsickofthemilieu, repertoire,andhoursof nightclubwork,where,in her words, “Money is spentlikeasillygirl’stears[and youngfemaleperformers]fillthe dressing room with meaningless
prattle.”Toescapetheprattle,she nowbroughthertypewritertowork, placeditatopherdressingtable,and wrote poetry and stories between shows.
Worsethanthedressingroomdriv¬ el, Molly felt straitjacketed by sterotypicviewsof“Indianmaidens” whichleftlittleroomforthegenuine traditionaldancingsheyearnedto perform.Oneofherdancedirectors wasfondofsayingthathisdancers’ costumesweresotinythathehad them flown in by humming birds. “I’mjustaninjuninthefleshparade,” Mollytoldherdiary.“Mycostume made me embarassed. Looked like loinclothaffairofsatinandbeads insteadofleatherandfringe.Notnat¬ uralformyIndiandance.”
OtherAmericanIndianentertain¬ ers shared her frustrations—and many,includingMolly,joinedorgani¬ zationssuchastheAboriginalCoun¬ cil,whichlodgedformalcomplaints aboutportrayalsofIndiansonstage andfilm.MollyalsojoinedtheSoci-
Belonging to disparate tribal groups, Indian entertainers were boundnotbyasharedculturalher¬ itage,butbyahistoryofcolonization responsibleforthefactthatthey wereperformingtheirtraditionson stageratherthaninlife.Intruth,their performancesbarelymatchedtheir traditions,formostmodifiedtheir actstopleaseaudiencesthatre¬ spondedonlytoarchetypicalIndian models—theromanticstuffofJames FenimoreCooper’snovelsorwildly
dramatizedPlainsIndianscenariosa laBuffaloBill’sWildWest.Tosuc¬ ceedasanIndianentertainer,one couldnotberigidaboutcultural authenticity. As Molly observed: “Penobscots—everyone thinks we are from Oklahoma. There is no romanticappealtothemodernwhite inaneasterntribeofIndians....[So] When they want a Sioux, oop I’m one—theuniversalIndian.”
As off-reservation Indi¬ ans marketing them¬ selves to mainstream society,Mollyandher cohortslivedinaliminalzonebetweentwocultures.Their culturalexileparalleledthatof“Hol¬ lywoodIndians”chronicledinaNew Yorknewspaper:
Hollywood has acquired a perma¬ nentcolonyofrepresentativesof almostalltribesstill[existing].With the cinema as their melting pot, theseexpatriatesaretakingonthe
Island Boat Yard
We have Mooring Rentals by the day, week or season, and offer Repair Services for your boat or outboard motor.
A friendly place to dock, and a beautiful island to explore!
• Boating Supplies•BoatsStored •OutboardMotorsSold Chebeague Island Boat Yard ChebeagueIsland,ME04017 207-846-4146
' Hinges and Holdbacks. Brochures/Prices,callorwrite: SHUTTERCRAFT,282StepstoneHill Guilford,CT06437 (203)453-1973
“Here’stheDiMillo’sfamily
* —Slav DLWUo
EveryoneknowsDiMillo’shasgreatviews. Infact, every tablehasaview.
Ofcourse,forMollyandherIndian friendsandassociates,the“realIndi¬ an”wasnottheonetheypresented onstageorinfrontofacamera.It wastheineffableandoftenelusive innerselfinextricablylinkedtothe independentandviablelifewaysof theirpre-colonialancestors.Itwas theselfMollylongedtoarticulate. Instead,shefoundherselfhalfnaked onastage,doingdancesthatonly hintedatthecontentofhersoul.One dayshetoldherdiary:“HowIwishI couldhavetheproperatmosphereto domyworkasitshouldbe.Ifonly onecoulddancesolelyforart!Maybe someday1willhavethatchance.If notinAmerica,theninEurope.” Her wish came true. In 1931 she traveledtoPariswiththefamous UnitedStatesIndianBandandgave theopeningdancefortheextrava¬ gantInternationalColonialExposi¬ tion.Performingdailywiththeband attheexpo’sAmericanexhibit,Mol¬ lyreceivedlotsofpresscoverage andinvitationsforotherengage¬ ments. When the band returned to theStatesafterseveralmonths,she decidedtoremaininParis—luredby French audiences who seemed less racistandmoresophisticatedthan thoseathome.AsoneFrenchjour¬ nalistreportedatthetime:“Princess SpottedElkisemphaticinherdesire fornothingbutgenuineness...and shetellsofthestruggleshehadin theStatesforatrueappreciationof Indiandances.TheaverageAmeri¬ can,theprincessdeclares,‘issatis¬ fied with a dancer bedecked in feathers, making war-whoops and leapingaimlesslyaboutwithsavage gesturestothebeatofatom-tom.’” Intheyearsthatfollowed,Molly dancedthroughoutEuropebeforea greatrangeofaudiences,including royalty.Shealsolecturedprofession¬ allyonIndiancultures,including dance—sometimesgivingacombina-
tionlecture-dance.Shewrotedown the legends she had learned as a childandmingledwithwell-known AmericanliteratiandFrenchanthro¬ pologists.
Molly’smostintimateFrenchcom¬ panionwasjournalistJeanArchambaud, whom she met when he interviewedherforParisSoir.Talk¬ ingatasidewalkcafe,Jeanasked Mollywhatshethoughtofhisfair city.Sheanswered,“Itistooloud;I prefer the woods.” Few Parisians would have appreciated such a response. But Jean Archambaud, whotreasurednature’sgiftsover thoseofthecity,founditsublime. Immediately he was smitten. Over thenextfewweeks,duringtimeless talksincafesandlongstrollsthrough Parisianparks,hefoundthatMolly, likehim,relishedart,literature,and history,andfeltuneasyifshespent toomuchtimeawayfromnature.She spokewithacaptivatingblendof passion and knowledge about an American Indian culture that intriguedhimprofoundly.Shesang Penobscot songs to him, and told himtheoldlegends.Hepursuedher asareflectionofsomethingdeep withinhimself—andwithinamonth oftheirfirstmeeting,proposedmar¬ riage.
Thefeelingwasmutual,yetMolly resistedmarryingJeanforyears,cer¬ tainthataformalunionwouldkillher career.Shehadalwaysgivenpriority toherprofession:“Thefireofambi¬ tionmustbefirst,”shehadtoldher diarywhenwritingaboutworkand loveatagetwenty-three.Butthefact thatJean,unlikeastringofprevious whitesuitors,lovedhernotasanov¬ eltybutasatruesoulmate,softened her stance. Gradually, her fears aboutthelimitationsofmarriage wereeclipsedbywhatshedescribed as the “companionship, honesty, honor, understanding, and confi¬ dence”thatshefoundwithJean.A remarkable partnership emerged. UnlikemostwomeninParis,Molly welcomedthechancetotakerugged mountaintrekswithJean.AndJean welcomedMolly’sinputinhiswork. Frequentlytheyco-authorednewspa¬ perandmagazinearticlesabouttheir treksandAmericanIndiantopics. JeansupportedMolly’scareerenthu-
siastically,paintingcostumesforher, donningIndiangarbhimselftoplay the drum while she danced, and translatingherpubliclectures,as wellasthePenobscotlegendsshe hadwrittendownsotheycouldbe publishedinFrance.
They finally wed in 1939—eight yearsaftertheirfirstmeeting—and fouryearsafterthebirthoftheir daughter, named Jean after her father.But,oneyearlater,WorldWar IIseparatedthem.AsGermantroops marched into France, Jean—the authorofmanypoliticallycontrover¬ sialarticles—wasforcedintohiding. NeitherhenorMollyknewforcertain wherehewouldshelterhimself.Mol¬ ly,determinedtogettheirchildout of harm’s way, made a harrowing journeywiththelittlegirl,hiking over the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain,findingatraintoLisbon,and finallyboardingarefugeesteamer backtotheStates.
(They) created another stir when they stopped for a glass of wine on the terrace of Cafe de la Rotonde, a favorite hangout for artists and writers. Archambaud asked Molly what she thought of Montparnasse, and included her reply in hisstory:‘“itistooloud,’ the young Indian woman says simply; ‘I prefer the woods.’”
those who did not know her. Some childrenwereafraidofher,butthose who stepped through the penumbra ofherworldsometimesfoundthem¬ selves in a magical realm where
ancientstoriescametolife,every¬ thingintheforesthadaname,and onemightcatchafishbyhand. n1977,atageseventy-four,Mol¬ lydied—butmostpeopleonthe islandagreethatherpioneering spiritlivesonandinspiresthe Penobscot’spresentdaycultur¬ alrevivalefforts.Fromthetimeshe wasachildMollyhadtriedtopre¬ serveandfosterrespectfortradi¬ tionalculture—bydefiningittothe publicthroughdance,song,lecture, andwriting.Thefirststagenameshe choseforherselfwasNeeburban,the PenobscotwordforNorthernLights. Inmanywaysthisnamesymbolizes thelightorinsightshesoughtfor herself and shared with others throughherart.Althoughshenever usedthewordspluralismorcultural emancipation, that is what she strovefor.Sheoncetoldherdiary, “WithhardworkIwillachievemy goal—notfamebutrealization.”Her realizationthatauthenticartand Continuedonpage24.
Thejournalistpressedformore,asking “Butwhatareyourtastes,whatdoyou like?”Mollyanswered,“Youcanadd thatIlovesnakes,verystrongtea, crosswordpuzzles,canoeing,camping, and some corners of France where natureissplendid.AndIhatejournalists whotalkaboutmyprivatelife.”
love were bridges on which she couldtravelbetweentwocultureson equalfootingisashininglightfor those who come after her. ■
REVIEW
What emerges from a reading of Bunny McBride’sstriking MollySpottedElk:A Penobscot In Paris (University of Oklahoma Press, 1995) is at once a heady sense of Molly Spotted Elk the performer and Molly the Native Amer¬ ican, derived straight from her diaries (nowinthecollectionoftheUniversityof Maine at Orono) and rife with the irony and joy experienced by this precociously talented, sensitive, and ambitious dan¬ cer, journalist (in English and French), poet, novelist, and, to her boredom, the targetofmanyawhiteman'sfantasy.
Because she can slide so provocatively in and out of the white world, Molly is uniquelyabletolet‘us’haveit-in‘our’ ownvernacular,asin:
“Rod says I’m like a wild horse and have to be made tame... I’m tired of hearing all this rubbish about sex appeal-it makes me sick...
“George Kent the polo-playing playboy in[theclub]again,sixthtime,with... Rockefeller’s grandson ... What would Louis Sobol say if he knew this million¬ aire radio heir was giving me the rush instead of those he put in the paper? I pity George as he is so helpless and miserablewithallhiswealth...
“Vanisaneuroticweakling,likeabig shipwithoutballast,ayoung,blondgiant with a large frame-all the riggings of a steel-rigged man... just another whiteIndian romance.”
Andyet,thissameIndianIslandflapper can write, in deadly earnest: “Wonder who the snake is, of green and yellow, which appears in my dreams-is it a warning?...It’ssohard, sohard, tosmile when one has done it so long... This feeling, god what is it-its grip almost scares me. Oh, to hear injun voices speak and the sound of someone pound¬ ing the ash log somewhere in the dis¬ tance...”
Molly’s anger and generosity come throughoneverypage,allthewaytoher thrillingly recounted escape from the German Occupation of Paris over the Pyrenees in 1940 with her daughter, Jean Moore, who lives in Maine today.
In reconnecting Molly Spotted Elk with a modern audience, anthropologist Mc¬ Brideskillfullyguidesreadersacrossthe terrainofemotionsandinsightsthatthis extraordinary individual had to traverse in order to both leave Maine and make it back again.
Boise Cascade Rumford Mill
Serving:BeaverCove,Greenville,Kokadjo,NortheastCarry,Rockwood; . For more information contact: Moosehead Lake Region Chamber of Commerce
Kisiri ViewMotorLoixii: Newest moteltnGreenville.Spectacular 1 SOpanoramic view of MooseheadLake&surroundingmoun¬ tains from your own private balcony.Quiet,secluded,only1/2 mileoffRte.15.P.O.Box514. Rt.15.Greenville.ME04441.207695-4470or1-800-659-VIEW.
Chalet Mooseheao Motei Accommodationsontheshoresof Moosehead Lake. Guests enjoy use of our docks, canoes & paddleboat.Picnic,swim.fish.or justrelax.Come&enjoyallfour Greenville with us. Junction.Maine04442.800-2903645or207-695-2950.
Kelly's I.ANDING Restaurantand accommodations on Moosehead Lake. Delicious homecooked mealswithcompletemenu.Water¬ frontdininginsideoronthedeck. Largelakefrontrooms.Openyeariweek.Greenville round7dav Junction. Maine 04442. 1-800 498-9800.
This,fromsuchapeacefulsoul? Have we been revering a man who doesn’tdeserveit?
Hardly.Athisbest,hecoulddes¬ cribenatureonparwithRalphWal¬ do Emerson, his inspiration and sometimelandlordinConcord,Mass¬ achusetts,butathisworst-ashe grouchedathisIndianguidesfornot cleaning his fish thoroughly and possibly eating more than their fairshareofthesugarrations,hewas allMargeSchott.
Thoreaumadethreeseparatetrips toMaine,inAugustof1846,Septem¬ berof1853,andJulyof1857,shelling outallof$3totravelbysteamerfrom Boston past Monhegan Island and the Camden Hills, then on up the PenobscotRivertoBangor,wherehe hadacousinwhowasengagedinthe lumbertrade.EverthethriftyNew Englander,hemanagedtooutfithim¬ selfandhireanIndianguide(ata rateof$1.50perdayplusfiftycents perweekfortheuseofhiscanoe)for atwelve-dayexpeditionforunder $25.Asafirmbelieverinsimplifica¬ tionasthekeytohappiness,Thore¬ autookadecidedlyminimalisticap¬ proachtopacking,carryingwithhim onlytwoextrashirts,onesparepair ofsocks,twosparehandkerchiefs, oneextrapairofdrawers,awater¬ proofcoat,andablanket;andwear¬ ingthickpants,sturdyshoes,andan oldhat.Hisotheressentialparapher¬ naliacomprisedatent,insectveil andrepellent,amapandcompass, fishingequipment,soap,matches,a jackknife,anaxe,aknifeandspoon,a tinplateanddipper,apot,afrying
pan, cord and twine, paper and stamps, a pocket telescope and microscope, and a tape measure. But even this modest equipage seems extravagant when compared withThoreau’saccountofJoePolis, the Penobscot Indian who guided himthroughtheAllagashwaterway
TikeUmamilkoirizeJ
Tlkoreau
StoryByGwenThompson
and down the East Branch of the Penobscot River. Joe “carried no changeofclothing,butputtingona stout,thickjacket...andseizingafullsizedaxe,hisgunandammunition, andablanket...andstrappingonhis belt,whichcontainedalargesheath¬ knife,hewalkedoffatonce,readyto begoneallsummer.”
Those who dream of emulating Thoreau’s unencumbered northern odyssey,however,woulddowellto rememberthatsomeoftheexhilarat¬ ingexperiencesherelatesareun¬ questionablyrelicsofabygoneera. When he climbed Mt. Katahdin in 1846—ajourneyhefound“scarcely lessarduousthanSatan’sanciently through Chaos”—very few people hadpreviouslydoneso,andevenhis owncompanionsbalkedataccompa¬
nyinghimallthewaytothesummit; whereasnowtheclimbissopopular that those who wish to ascend Maine’shighestpeakmustarriveat thecrackofdawninordertobesure ofgettinginbeforetheofficialdaily quotaofhikersisfilled.Norwould the modern woodsman fording a stream be able to pause blithely “uponaconvenientrockinthemidst ofthetorrent...[and]unstrapthedip¬ perathisbelttotakeadraughtofthe water”withoutfearofcontractinga nastycaseofgiardiaasaresult.Ina similar vein, perusing Thoreau’s dietarynotesmakeitclearthatback¬ packingfarehasalsoevolvedconsid¬ erablyovertime:confrontedwith breakfastmenusthatfeaturedhardbread,tea,friedsalmon,freshly pluckedducks,and“pork,oftenraw, sliceuponslice,”onecanonlycon¬ cludethattrichinosistoowasfarless prevalentheretofore.
Butmostofthetrialsand tribulationsthatattended Thoreau’ssojournsinthe greatoutdoorsare,unfor¬ tunately,eternal.Perhaps the most disappointing was when, after“Havingslumped,scrambled, rolled,bounced,andwalked”hisway uptothetopofKatahdin,Thoreau “enteredwithintheskirtsofthe cloudwhichseemedforeverdrifting overthesummit,andyetwouldnev¬ erbegone...Iwasdeepwithinthe hostileranksofclouds,andallob¬ jectswereobscuredbythem...Itwas likesittinginachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away.” On anothertriptoadifferentmountain theweatherwassimilarlyuncooper¬ ative:“Mt.Kineo...hadalevelbarof cloudconcealingitssummit,andall the mountain-tops about the lake werecutoffatthesameheight.”
Then there were the maps they weretryingtofollow,whichturned outtocontain“alabyrinthoferrors,” including “outlines of imaginary lakes”butneglecting“morethana dozen flourishing towns” through whichThoreaupassedenroute.
But even when the maps worked, therewasplentytocomplainabout. InthoseDarkAgesbeforetheadvent of nylon and Gore-Tex, it was inevitablethatduringasplendid thunderstorm a tent made of thin
ThoughThoreauclaimedtoprefer sleepingoutintheraintoadrynight spentinthesanctuaryofatavern,he admittedthatthe“myriadsofblack flies and mosquitoes” were “more formidablethanwolvestothewhite man,” the more so because “their combinedhumwasalmostasbadto endureastheirstings.”Heevenwent sofarastoapplytohisfaceand handsawash“composedofsweet-oil andoilofturpentine,withalittleoil ofspearmint,andcamphor”torepel his“insectfoes”;buteventhoughit providedtwentyminutesofrelief aftereachapplication,he“finally concluded that the remedy was worsethanthedisease.Itwassodis¬ agreeableandinconvenienttohave your face and hands covered with suchamixture.”
Ontheotherhand,pain andpleasure,thenas now, went hand in hand,sothatwetboots andbugbiteswerebal¬ ancedoutbythepleasantsurpriseof stumbling upon “a blueberry and raspberrygarden,eachsideofour rockytrail...Suchpatchesaffordeda gratefulrepast,andservedtobaitthe tiredpartyforward”ormomentsof quietcontemplationofnaturalbeau¬ tywhen“Themorningwasabright one,andperfectlystillandserene, thelakeassmoothasglass,wemak¬ ingtheonlyrippleaswepaddledinto it.Thedarkmountainsaboutitwere seenthroughaglaucousmist,and thebrilliantwhitestemsofcanoe¬ birches mingled with the other woods around it. The wood-thrush sangonthedistantshore,andthe laughofsomeloons,sportingina concealedwesternbay,asifinspired bythemorning,camedistinctover thelaketous,and,whatwasremark¬ able,theechowhichranroundthe lakewasmuchlouderthantheorigi¬ nalnote.”
Other woodland scenes, though, werefarfromagreeable.Thoreaufelt thatthegrislypileof22moosecar¬ casseshespiedrottingjustnorth¬ eastofMooseheadLakewas“about assavageasightaswaseverwit-
nessed”andnotedwithdisapproval that“thishuntingofmoosemerely forthesatisfactionofkillinghim,— notevenforthesakeofhishide,— without making any extraordinary exertionorrunninganyriskyourself, istoomuchlikegoingoutbynightto somewood-sidepastureandshoot¬ ingyourneighbor’shorses.”Watch¬ ingJoePolisskinamoosewitha pocket-knife,hemulledoverwhat“a tragicalbusinessitwas,—toseethat still warm and palpitating body piercedwithaknife,toseethewarm milkstreamfromtherentudder,and theghastlynakedredcarcassap¬ pearingfromwithinitsseemlyrobe, whichwasmadetohideit.”Buthis squeamishness was certainly not promptedbyanysentimentalattach¬ menttotheanimal,forhefoundit “singularlygrotesqueandawkward tolookat”;nordidhisvegetarian leaningspreventhimfromeatingits tongueanditsmeatfriedforsupper. Infact,Thoreauwasfarmorevehe¬ mentlyopposedtologging—thecar¬ nage of which was inescapable no matterwherehewent—thantohunt¬ ing,expressingnothingbutcontempt forlumberjackswhoadmire“thelog, thecarcass,orcorpse,morethanthe tree”andpraiseapinebytellingyou that“theonehecutwassobigthata yokeofoxenstoodonitsstump;asif thatwerewhatthepinehadgrown for,tobecomethefootstoolofoxen.”
JULY i4 - FABULOUS ‘50s-SENSATIONAL ‘60s & AIRSHOW
JULY 21. 28 - TRUCKS, TRACTORS, COMMERCIAL VEHICLES
NJ6 io. n - TRANSPORTATION SPECTACULAR & AIRSHOW
AU6. 24 - ANTIQUE-CLASSIC-SPECIAL INTEREST AUTO AUCTION
SEPT. i - ANTIQUE MOTORCYCLE FESTIVAL & AIRSHOW
SEPT. >4. 15 - ANNUAL TRANSPORTATION FLEA MARKET
OCT. G - FOREIGN AUTO FESTIVAL & AIRSHOW
OCT. 21 - THE GREAT FALL AUCTION
P.O.SOX277, OWLS HEAP. ME 04664 207-514-4418 (TWO MILES SOUTH OF POCKLANO ON PTE. 73)
forawinter”—justtocleartheway forremovingthehighlyprizedpines, hewasnotabovehabituallychop¬ ping down whatever trees were handy to his campsite and piling themtogethertobuildafiretenfeet widebyfourfeethighthatwould burnallnightlong,consumingas much wood “as would, with econo¬ myandanair-tightstove,lastapoor familyinoneofourcitiesallwin¬ ter”—thisdespitethefactthatone evening“thewindcarriedthesparks ontothetentandburnedit.”Neither was he averse to cutting enough cedarorspruceboughsofflivetrees tomakeforhimselfandhiscompan¬ ionsasix-footlongbyten-footwide bedtosleeponeverynight.
horeau’s real quarrel with the lumbering in¬ dustry was not that it was ecologically un¬ sound, but that it put profitbeforepoetry.Hehimselfwas convincedthatitisnotthelumber¬ jackwhofellsthepines,butrather the poet—“who loves them as his ownshadowintheair,andletsthem stand”—who possesses the truest, mostintimateknowledgeofthetree: “Ihavebeenintothelumber-yard, andthecarpenter’sshop...butwhen atlength1sawthetopsofthepines wavingandreflectingthelightata distancehighoveralltherestofthe forest,1realizedthattheformerwere notthehighestuseofthepine.”To Thoreauthepoet,permittingpeople whoviewmajesticallytoweringtrees onlyintermsofboard-feettotake possessionofandtopplethemwas “Asifindividualspeculatorswereto beallowedtoexportthecloudsout ofthesky,orthestarsoutofthefir¬ mament,onebyone.”
be‘civilizedoffthefaceofthe earth,’—ourforests...notforidle sportorfood,butforinspirationand ourowntruerecreation?orshallwe, likethevillains,grubthemallup, poaching on our own national do¬ mains?”Hisconcernwascertainly understandable,foralreadyonhis thirdtriphefoundthat“Thingsare quitechangedsinceIwashere11 yearsago.Wheretherewerebutone ortwohouses,1nowfoundquitea village,withsaw-millsandastore.”
Thoreau’slongingforapristinepre¬ servemayalsohaveariseninpart fromhisdisappointmentatdiscover¬ ingthat“Generallyspeaking,ahowl¬ ingwildernessdoesnothowl:itis theimaginationofthetravelerthat doesthehowling,”forhecertainly possessedavividimaginationcapa¬ bleofsupplyingthewildlifethereal forestlacked.Whenheheardthecry oftheloonhefoundthat“Someidea ofbears,wolves,orpanthersrunsin yourheadnaturally,andwhenthis noteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmid¬ night...youconcludethatitisapack ofwolvesbayingthemoon,orper¬ chance,canteringafteramoose,” only to remark mundanely later, shatteringtheillusion,“Ihaveheard asoundexactlylikeitwhenbreath¬ ingheavilythroughmyownnostrils, halfawakeattenatnight.”Another timehe“wasstartledbyseeingwhat 1 thought was an Indian encamp¬ ment,coveredwitharedflag,onthe bank...Iwasslowtodiscoverthatit was a red maple changed by the frost.”VanWyckBrooks—himselfa hopeless romantic—excuses Thor¬ eau’soccasionalflightsoffancywith thecontentionthat“Lookingatna¬ turestraightintheeyewasasfatalas tolookattheheadofMedusa.The man of science always turned to stone.Henrywishedtolookatnature sidewise,ortolookthroughnature andbeyondit.”
AccordingtoBrooks,anotherrea¬ sonThoreautraveledtoMainewas toobservefirsthandtheIndians, whom he had admired since his childhooddaysofcollectingarrow¬ headsastheembodimentofasim¬ pler mode of life and a greater nearnesstotheearth.Evereagerto learntheIndians’languageandwood lore,Thoreau“narrowlywatchedhis
[guide’s]motions,andlistenedatten¬ tivelytohisobservations,forwehad employed an Indian mainly that I mighthaveanopportunitytostudy his ways.” But when he asked Joe Polistoexplaintohimhowhewas abletofindhiswayinthewoodsin thedarkwithoutacompassoreven thenoiseoftherivertoguidehim, theguidetauntinglyreplied,‘“Oh,I can’ttellyou...Greatdifferencebe¬ tweenmeandwhiteman.’”
Thoreau was much impressed with theIndians’superioreyesight,which enabledthemtospotcanoes,ducks, andevendropsofbloodlongbefore theirwhitecompanions;withtheir abilitytopaddleacanoesilently through still water and safely throughroughwaterandtoportage it“asifitwereafeather,inplaces whereitwasdifficulttogetalong withoutaburden”;andwiththeir skillattracking“withapeculiar,elas¬ tic,noiseless,andstealthytread... [stepping]lightlyandgracefully, stealingthroughthebusheswiththe leastpossiblenoise,inawayin whichnowhitemandoes.”Infact, whileJoePolishadnodifficultyfol¬ lowing an indistinct trail even throughbare,rockyareas,Thoreau andhiswhitecompanionfrequently “foundnopathatallattheseplaces, andweretohimunaccountablyde¬ layed.”
Inaddition,Thoreaubenefited fromJoe’sknowledgeofhowto finddrykindlingintherain, makeeverythingfromcandles topipesoutofbirchbark,brew avarietyoftastyherbteasfromwild ingredients,andsplitspruceroots intosturdystring.(WhenThoreau attempted the latter himself, he foundthat“thoughitlookedvery easy...therewasagreatartinsplit¬ tingtheseroots.”)Hewasalsofasci¬ natedbyJoe’simitationsofbirdcalls and animal sounds, by the way in whichheusedhisstrongteethal¬ most as a third hand, and by how quicklyhelearnedtopitchthetent correctly, when “the majority of white men would have blundered severaltimes.”
land;andhewasgreatlychagrinedto discoverthatthey“knewbutlittleof thehistoryoftheirrace,andcould beentertainedbystoriesabouttheir ancestorsasreadilyasanyway.” Thenagain,hewasfarfromcompli¬ mentaryaboutthelegendsandtradi¬ tionsJoedidremember,complaining that“AnIndiantellssuchastoryas ifhethoughtitdeservedtohavea gooddealsaidaboutit,onlyhehas notgotittosay,andsohemakesup forthedeficiencybyadrawlingtone, long-windedness, and a dumb won¬ derwhichhehopeswillbeconta¬ gious.”
ThoreaualsofoundfaultwithJoe forshirkingcookingduties,wanting toeatbreakfastbeforesearchingfor a member of their party who had gone missing, carelessly leaving bootsandmatchesoutintherainto getwet,sleepingexcessively,refus¬ ingtobatheincoldwater,cleaning fishinsufficiently,andeatingmore thanhisfairshareoftheirrationof sugar.Andwhileheconcededthat Indianvillageswere“cleanerthanI expected,farcleanerthansuchIrish villagesas1haveseen,”hethought thatJoe,“liketheIrish...madea greateradoabouthissicknessthana Yankeedoes,andwasmorealarmed about himself”—rather an ironic observationinlightofthefactthat Thoreauhimselfdiedatage44and perhaps ought to have been a bit more concerned about his own health.
DespiteBrooks’seffusive assertionthat“atboating and camping he was a master-woodsman...The redskins had forgotten the arts he knew... His fingers seemed to have more wisdom in themthanmanyascholar’shead,” Thoreau was hardly Natty Bumppo. Canoeingcertainlywasnothisforte, for he believed it impossible to climb back into a canoe that has capsizedandlikenedthewavesthat occasionallysplashedinoverthe gunwalesto“amonsterdeliberately coveringyouwithslimebeforeit swallowsyou.”Healsoinitiallypro¬ posed to paddle up the Penobscot RiverbyitsEastBranchtothelakes oftheSt.Johnandreturnbywayof Chesuncook Lake and Moosehead
MAINE’S COMPLETE OCEAN RESORT
A wonderful 600 acre resort featuring Golf,Tennis,Boating,Swimming,Hiking. Bowling, & Evening Ent. for all ages. Savor our delicious food (including optional Lobster, Steak, & Breakfast cookouts),andfriendlyatmosphere.We offeravarietyofcomfortableaccommoda¬ tions.JustonehourfromPortlandwith museums,beaches,andshoppingnear-by. LowerratesprevailuntilJuly13thand, again, after August 24th. MAP rates includebreakfastanddinner.
Lake—a trip that would have been entirelyupstreamandtakentwiceas longastheroutetheyeventuallyset¬ tledon,whichwasexactlythere¬ verse—and was happy to leave all theportagingentirelyinthecapable handsofJoePolis.
However,hisfeelingsre¬ garding Indians were most mixed when it cametomattersofcon¬ versation. On the one hand,Joe’s“taciturnfits”andrefusal to answer the same question more thanonceortoshoutouthiswhere¬ abouts repeatedly when they were separatedcouldbeveryfrustrating. ButatthesametimeThoreaufeltJoe “wasreallypayingusagreatcompli¬ mentallthewhile”bytreatingthem likeIndians“andthinkingthatwe preferredahinttoakick.”Healso marveledat“thatstrangeremote¬ nessinwhichtheIndianeverdwells tothewhiteman”andat“thepecu¬ liarvaguenessofhisreplieswhen addressedinthestage,oratthetav¬ erns.Heneverreallysaidanything on such occasions. He was merely stirredup,likeawildbeast,and...His answer,insuchcases,wasneverthe consequence of a positive mental energy, but vague as a puff of smoke.”Ironically,Thoreaufoundhis questforsolitudejeopardizedbythe otherwise uncommunicative Joe’s desire to stop and exchange news withtheinhabitantsofeverysettle¬ menttheycameuponinthewoods, andconcludedindisgustthat“The PenobscotIndiansseemtobemore social,even,thanthewhites.”
All the same, when push came to shove,Thoreaupreferredtospenda night in the company of Indians ratherthanamonglumberjacks,be¬ causewhilethelatter’slog-camp “wascloseanddirty,andhadaniU smell,” the former, “though they weredirty,too...weremoreinthe openair,andweremuchmoreagree¬ able,andevenrefinedcompany,than thelumberers.”Hisharshcriticismof almosteveryoneheencounteredin histravelsmakesmoresensewhen one realizes that, according to Brooks, even at home in Concord, “Whenitcametosharinghiswalks, Henrywasratherparticular.Alcott servedforastroll,buttherealartof
walkingwasbeyondhim.Healways wished to perch on the nearest stump. Hawthorne was even more annoying.Oneledhimtoone’sloveli¬ estswamp,andHawthornestoodon thebrink,disconsolate.‘Letusget out of this dreadful hole,’ he said...Therewereonlytwoorthree persons with whom Thoreau...felt thathecouldaffordtowalk.”
Thus if there was any one thing Thoreaulearnedabouthimselfinthe Maine woods, it was that you can takethemanoutofConcord,butyou can’ttakeConcordoutoftheman.As aquintessentialNewEnglander(des¬ piteregularlytradingthebeanshe grewatWaldenforriceinsteadof eatingthemforsupperonSaturday night),Thoreau’sreactiontophos¬ phorescentwoodglowingeerilyat nightintheforestrantruetoform:“1 sawthatitwasexcellent,andwas very glad to know that it was so cheap.”Nomatterhowdeepheven¬ tured into the woods, Thoreau’s imaginationpersistedinrunningin civilizedtracks,sothatheseemedto seeinthetree-tops“anendlesssuc¬ cessionofporticoesandcolumns, cornicesandfacades,verandasand churches” and compared a smartly dressed Indian strolling on the steamerlandingatthenorthendof Moosehead Lake to “New York dan¬ dies[who]takeaturnupBroadway andstandonthestepsofahotel.”
ThoreauactuallylivedonStaten Islandforawhile,tutoringEmerson’s nephews;andjustasthenoiseand dirtinessofManhattaneventually drovehimbacktohisbelovedCon¬ cord, when he returned from the wildsofMainehefoundit“areliefto getbacktooursmoothbutstillvar¬ iedlandscape.Forapermanentresi¬ dence,itseemedtomethatthere could be no comparison between thisandthewilderness,necessaryas thelatterisforaresource.”Nonethe¬ less,thereisnoquestionthatThor¬ eau’ssojournsinthePineTreeState madeanindelibleimpressiononhim, forhespenthislastdays,whiledying oftuberculosis,faithfullycompleting the record of his journeys (The Maine Woods ) “with an Indian’s indifferencetothefuture.”Thor¬ eau’slastwordswere“moose”and “Indian.”
How Friendly Is Your Business Telephone System?
r “At peak periods our receptionistcan'tanswerallourcalls inatimelyfashion."
enterthepicture,aswellassandy beaches.AgullcirclesaroundDev¬ il’sBackboneandthenlands.There issilenceasyou’veneverheardit before, enriched by the hypnotic crashofwavesonthefarbeach.This ‘psychic decompression’ could be yours,rightnow,onanyoneofthese islands-r/ns summer-because they reallyareforsale.Someofthemhave “forever wild” easements, others lovelycottages,stillothersgothic
EverywherehereinJonesportthe islandsare“spruce-clad,”andthis particularislandisblockedfrom major storms by nearby Rogue Is¬ land.There’sacustom-builtwhite cedar log home (with beach-stone fireplace) on the eastern shore where you can catch up on your reading or look through designer windowsandseebreathtakingGreat Head.
Let the LAURA B and the ELIZABETH ANN transport you into the magic of
MONHEGAN ISLAND
Enjoy picturesque Monhegan Island.Withitsgalleries,shops, restaurants,inns,floraand fauna,hikingtrails,'lighthouse and museum, there’s something foreveryone.Startyourtripon the mail boat making daily tripsfromPortClyde.
Thisisland—setinSebagoLake, just off land from South Casco — measures around 9 acres, and in¬ cludesatwo-bedroomguesthouse. There’saprivatebeachontheis¬ land,mountainandlakeviews,even anotchedcoveforthosewhowant toarrivebyseaplane..
SHAW ISLAND, $394,000
This island on Sebago Lake mea¬ suresabitunder3acres.Livingquar¬ ters on the property are a large 2-bedroom home with an in-law apartment,plusadock,garage,boat slipandshop.
PINKHAM ISLAND, $227,500
This low, rocky island measures aboutfiveacresandincludesathreebedroomcottagewithfireplacenes¬ tledamongafewtrees.There’san interestingstorytoPinkham,which was once just one of many Ram IslandsthatdottheMainecoast. Inthe1920s,theislandcameupfor saleataforeclosureauctionbecause ofunpaidtaxes.NewJerseyteacher FlorencePinkhamtraveledtoMaine, madetheauctionandkepttheisland inthefamily.Asummerresident,she wassaidtohavebeenquiteacharac¬ ter—andshewastheonewhoper¬ suadedtheMainestatelegislatureto
changetheisland’snametothatof the New England family who had owneditfor200years.
As it’s carpeted by shrubs and fields,notbigtrees,therearelotsof views of neighboring islands and waterinalldirections.
amidst
Luxuriousantique-furnishedrooms?Queen4-postercanopybeds? Deliciousbreakfasts?Workingfireplaces?Warmhospitality? at
PO.Box800•Kennebunkport,Maine04046•207967-3141
SNOWISLAND,$1million.
Shaped like an arrowhead, Snow Island’s30acressitnestledinQuahogBayinHarpswell.Tallpinescov¬ ertheisland,anditscoveisoriented towardthesouth—towardsunsets overthebay.Acuteseasonalcottage alsositsontheisland.
refreshingdrinkorquick snack. And an oceanfront ~ restaurant,withbeachsidedeck, foranythingfromatallcooloneto anhonest-to-goodnessDownEast lobsterandclambake.
Theparcelincludesa27.5-acrepar¬ celoflandonwhichtobuildahouse. Once established, you could walk across your own causeway to the island,whichhasapinefloorand treestallenoughtocreateacathe¬ draleffect.Onceyouthrashyour way to the other side you get an enormoussenseofpeaceasyouhear thecleanlakewatergurglingagainst thestonesoftheisland.
Iamwalkingthebackshoreof PeaksIsland,onaspringday whentheseabreezeisstrange¬ lyquiet,approachingatrailthat carves through the forested heartoftheisland.1amhereto explorethatheart.Peaksisn’tabig island—itonlymeasuresalittle over700acres—butithasabig heart.Askanyonehere.They’lltell you.
As 1 plunge down an embankment, scrapinguplastautumn’sdryleaves tocatchmyfall,twoanimalsbolt fromthecoverofsaplings.They’d been no more than 50 feet away a moment ago, but the sounds of my walkingflushedthem.Foramoment, asItrytofocusontheirshapesmov¬ ingthroughtheunderbrush,Icon¬ vincemyselftheyarecaribou:Ican seedarksmudgesofantlerforming ontheirheads,feeltheclicking rhythmoftheirjointsastheybound
NowI’mrestingbythewallofa rudelittlecemeterytuckedoutofthe wind, running my hands over the namesofthechildrenandfamilies whomadetheirlivesonthisisland— who died here, too — when it was notsocivilizedaplace.
Examinethestonesclosely enough, and they begin talking, changing from darkslatestowhiteblocks ofmarbleduringthelatter partofthenineteenthcentury.This changewasthechangeofaturbulent historicalmoment,adesiretocon¬ trolnature,bestexemplifiedbythe millwheelsoftheIndustrialRevolu¬ tion,andanequallypowerfulcoun¬ tervailingdesiretopossessit.(The nationalparksmovementandafresh waveofcommunalexperimentsalso took root during this time.) The whiteofthemarblemighthaverep¬ resentedanascentfromtheearthly shacklesoftheslateandgranite,if oneweretothinkhardenoughabout it.
Sometimes the possession of an island destroys the owner. Some¬ timesitdestroystheisland.Tosay this,however,isalsotohope—to demand,infact—thatpropercoex¬ istencewithanislandispossible. Toapproachanislandasproperty, afterall,istotakeonaserious responsibilityindeed.Islandspro¬ ducemuchmorebiologicalvariety thanmostcomparableareasofdry land,simplybecausetheyareisolat-
ed;thinkoftheabundantnoveltyin placessuchasHawaiiorMadagascar ortheGalapagos.Islandsarealso,by nature,exceedinglydelicateecosys¬ tems:everythingismoreprecious, moreself-contained,perchedonthe edgeofthebiologicalledgersheet. AnislandontheMainecoastwon’t contain20kindsoffinch,butitmight wellcontainastrictlylimitedsupply of potable water — something we canunderstandverydirectly,when we’reforcedto—anditmightplay hostto10kindsofunusualbirdsat some point during each of their annualmigrationsornestingseas¬ ons.
Ourresponsibility—the responsibilityofstew¬ ardship,whichliterally means housekeeping — iseasilyforgotten,how¬ ever,inthescrambleforenviron¬ mentalpermits,thedreamofposs¬ ession,theexcitementofpermanent alteration.It’sforthisreasonthat increasingnumbersofislandowners arefindingitprudenttoplacetheir islandsintrust,ortoplaceconserva¬ tioneasementsontheseproperties, legally binding attachments that long outlast the human owner who arrangesthem.
OfMaine’s1,200coastalislands measuringoneacreorlargerinsize, approximatelyonehundredarepri¬ vatelyownedbyconservationorga¬ nizations. On hundreds more, at leastoneparceloflandisprotected bysomeformof“foreverwild”ease¬ mentorotherrestrictiononfuture activities.
Weeachhaveourownthoughtofa landscape, and for some reason I alwaysthinkofboneswhenIthinkof anislandlikePeaks.1seeeachisland, headland,andmountaininMaineas bones—thebonesofageological timeweonlydimlyglimpse.
Halfabillionyearsago,ofcourse, therewasnosuchplaceasthisbay. Therewasnothingremotelyresem¬ blingKettleCoveorPeaksorMack¬ worthislands;thesedimentsthat wouldbecomethoserockswerestill lyingquietlyunderwaterahundred milesofftheNorthAmericanshore inaclearbluesubtropicalsea.The waterwaspleasantasbathwater; beneathitssurface,afewcylinder¬ shapedclumpsofalgaegrewonthe oceanfloor.Buttherewaslittleelse. Howthosemuds,clays,andalgae becamethiscrab-shapedCascoBay stretchingfromCapeElizabethto Small Point — a bay teeming with someofthemostdiverseandpro¬ ductivecomplicationsofmarinelife evermeasuredinthishemisphereof the world — is a story with more twistsandplotturnsthanapotboil¬ er:thousandsofyearsofvolcanic activity,interlacedwithmillionsof yearsofquietriversfallingintothe bay.Infinitelyslow,butportentous, collisionsbetweenprimevalEurope andNewEngland.Amile-highpackof icegrindingthroughtheregionand crushingnearlyeverythinginits path.Itisastorytooinvolvedtotell here.
Butit’sastoryworthknowing,one thatcontinuestoframetheeventsof the present. The bay’s shape and currents have spawned rich fish¬ eries. And they have also worked againstthefish:whenanoiltanker ranagroundonSoldiersLedgeinthe summerof1972,onehundredthou¬ sandgallonsofcrudeoilpouredout agapingholeinthehull.Sweptby prevailingwindsandtidesintothe gougeofthebay,theoilformeda slick mat and washed up onto the seaward shore of Peaks. Dig deep enoughintothecobblebeacheslin¬
ingitsbacksideandyoucanstillfind theoil,whichbreaksdownscarcely at all when embedded in mud this way.
Itisastoryasinstructive,initsown way,astheslowgeologicalproces¬ sionswrittenintotherocksorthe dramatic human narratives passed downasmythsandlaterlost.
Foryears,oneyarnhasmadethe roundsabouttheEnglishexplorer ChristopherLevett.Levettbuilthis stonehouse(perhapsthefirstrela¬ tively permanent dwelling in the bay’slonghistory)onPeaks,itgoes. ItiscertainthatLevett—whofirst mappedthispartoftheMainecoast —builtahouseononeoranotherof theseislands,andthediscoveryof anoldstonefoundationandcharcoal during the 1830s generated fresh excitementaroundthePeakstheory. Laterworkdemonstratedthatthis mystery house almost certainly wasn’tLevett’s,buthisdwellingstill rests—nevertheless—inthecoun¬ tryoftheimagination.Itsplaceinthe geographyofPeaksisaslegitimate asthatoftheirregularseriesofbat¬ tlementsrisingimpassivelyfromthe heartoftheisland.
We need to preserve islands for theirhabitat(whichsustainswild¬ life),butalsotheirhistories,which sustaintheimagination.Weneedto dothisevenifitmeansrethinking ourdeeplyhelddesiresofescaping toislandsandpossessingabitof theirsolitary,otherworldlyquality.
Perhaps we might even find our way to doing both, now and then. Deepinthescrubbyforest,mylast dayofwalkingonPeaks,Icameupon abeechtrunkdappledwithlightjust asahorse’sbodywouldhavebeenin thosewoods.ThoughIstoodperfect¬ lystill,thetreeseemedtochange positionconstantly.Thoughmyeyes knewthatnothingwasmoving,that therewasnohorsestandingthere, the mind simply would not relin¬ quishthecurioussensationofmo¬ tionandpresence.AndsoIstaredat thetree’sbodyforlongminutes, strucksilent,myneckpricklinginthe coolsunlight.
Stepping away, 30 feet away, I turnedsuddenlyandwasastonished: there before me now lay a dark stump of hemlock, shaped almost
J.J.Keating
Distinctive Home Furnishings
•FormalFurnitureaccents
•GoldenOakDiningSets
•Brassaccessories
•CastIronAntiqueReplicas
•OrientalPorcelain
•CopperWeathervanes (50styles!)
•HandcraftedLighting
•TraditionalOfficeFurniture
“Wherequality doesn’tmeanexpensive
Route1North,Kennebunk 985-2097985-2583
Attention Boaters!
Secluded architect-de¬ signed post & beam home with approximately 191 feet of shoreline on Ixmg Cove,stairstofloat, protectedmooring.St.George.$298,000.
Birch Island.
An island in its en¬ tiretyisararefind. State-owned Warren Islandisitsneighbor, imd access to Dark Harbor make tliis island a special find.. $162,000.
• Most importantly, learn about donationsandeasementsthatpro¬ tectanislandforfuturegenerations. It’ssurprisinglyeasytodonatean islandtoalandtrust,andequally simpletodesignatepartofanisland “foreverwild”inordertoensurethat it’sneverbulldozedfordevelopment, loggedorotherwisealtered. What’smore,eithercourseofac¬ tionoftenresultsinataxwriteoff.
Straight donation has long been popular in Maine. About one hun¬ dredofMaine’sacre-or-largerislands arepresentlyownedbynonprofits suchaslandtrustsorconservation groups — including half of those islandsconsideredmostimportant fornestingseabirds.
Conservation easements are also popular;onMountDesertIslandand IsleofHautalone,hundredsofpar¬ cels of land have been protected fromdevelopmentbyforward-think¬ ingphilanthropists.
Taxbenefitsalsopileupwhenyou giveorprotectanisland.Straight donationscanoftenbewrittenoffas charitablecontributions,andthe samethinggoesforaneasement:to theIRS,it’sadonationworthwhat¬ ever a developer would have paid youtosellinstead.
Howtobegin?Hereareafewplaces togetstarted:
•TheIslandInstitute(594-9209) workstopreservethestate’sislands and publishes an informative bi-
monthlynewspaper.
•MaineCoastHeritageTrust(7297366)isthestate’sclearinghousefor Maine’slandtrusts,whichbuyupor placeeasementsonlandsothatit won’tbedevelopedlater.Formedby Peggy Rockefeller, the Trust has helped conserve many important coastalislands.
•TheNatureConservancy’s(7295181)specialfocusisplaceswhere endangered ecosystems or species exist.TheConservancyhelpsinter¬ veneandfacilitatedonations,sales and easements. H
JohnS.MarrRealty TIMETOMOVE
TO THE SUBURBS?
BySanfordPhippen
AuthorJanwillemvande Wetering,wholivesalong the Union River, likestotakehisboatout alongtheEasternCoast ofMainetovisitasmanyoftheis¬ landsashecan.Recently,hetoldme aboutaprivatelyownedislandthat sportsasignwhichreads:
I WORKED VERY HARD. I SAVED A LOT OF MONEY. 1 BOUGHT THIS ISLAND. IBUILTTHISHOUSE. IT’SMINE. FUCK OFF.
Space available at Greater Portland’s most accessibleofficepark.Currentlythis12-year-old 20,000sq.ft.brickbuildinglocatedintheFalmouth OfficeParkis1/2vacantandwaitingfora 2,000-10,000sq.ft.tenantatcompetitiverates. Are your needs greater than 10,000 sq. ft.? We will entertaindiscussionsforalong-termtenantwith space needs between 20,000-60,000 sq. ft.
SailfromBartlarbor aboardtheschooners NATALIE TODD and FRANCIS TODD for a spectacular 2-hour cruise among thepine-studdedislands androckboundcoastlineof ACADIA. Both schooners are formerfishingvessels, rebuiltbyMainecraftsmen. LOOK FOR OUR RED SAILS!
ThankstomylifelongfriendSturgis Haskins,whoownsacoupleofsail¬ boats, I’ve explored many of the islandsintheMountDesertarea. Sturgis’ancestorsonceownedboth CalfandStaveIslandsforalmosta hundredyears.AccordingtoSturgis, “thesummerpeoplehavebeenvery responsibleabouttheislandsthey own. They have saved the islands from development, and they have beenverygoodaboutlettingpeople goonthem.Butthesituationhas changedtodaywiththeproblemof someofthelocalpeople-frominland Maineaswellasthecoast-intheir speed boats zooming around irre¬ sponsiblyallovertheplace,tyingup atislandswheretheyhavebeerpar¬ tiesandleavetrashallover.”
MyPhippenancestors came from the Cran¬ berryIslands,butI’ve neverbeenthere.I’ve never been to Monhegan,either.EventhoughI’velived inMaineformostofmylife,myactu¬ alsojournsonislandsotherthan Mount Desert have been few. When StanHaskellwastheministeronthe SunbeamfortheMaineSeacoastMis¬ sionbackinthe1970s,Iwentwith himacoupleoftimestoserviceson Frenchboro. Thanks to my former collegeteacherTedHolmesandhis wife,Jane,Igottospendaweekend onGott’sIslandrightnexttothe house where author Ruth Moore grewup.Fromthatvisit,Iremember howdarkitgetsonaMaineislandat nightandhowbrilliantlyclosethe moonandstarsseemtobe.
AsachildgrowingupinHancock, I’d go with my step-grandfather, HaroldDow,andotherfamilymem¬ bers,onhiscabincruiserorlobster boatforpicnicsonthePorcupine IslandsoffBarHarbor.
Dependingonwhattownandjuris¬ dictioninwhichanislandlies,local clam and wormdiggers have always frequentedislandsfortheirdigging. Localpeoplegohuntingonsomeof theislands,too.Irememberoncehik¬ ingaboutIronboundIslandwithStur-
gis Haskins, who had called the Boston family who had long owned theisland,toseeifthey’dletus,and thesubjectofhuntingcameup.IronboundispartofthetownofWinter Harbor, and the family has never objectedtolocalshuntingthere,but likemanyislandownersanddwel¬ lers,theyworryagreatdealabout fires.TherewasabadoneonIronboundonceandthefamilylosttheir house.
Thedaywevisited,itwasgreatfun havingteaattheendofourhikewith thematriarchofthefamilyather charming house where she showed usherscrapbooksofherrelatives andguestsontheislandoverthe decades.Thefamilyallowspeopleto hikeandexplore,butbecausethey want to preserve the trails from overuse,theyliketolimitthevisitors toafewatatime.
I’vetakentheferrytoSwan’sIsland foraFourthofJulypicnic;theferryat Lincolnville Beach to Islesboro, whereIstayedasanovernightguest oftheRothschildsattheirgreatcot¬ tage;andthemailboatouttoEagle IslandoffDeerIsle.Onthelatter excursion,friendSturgispointedout to me Great Spruce Head Island, wherephotographerEliotPorterand hisbrother,FairfieldPorter,the painter,livedandworked;BearIs¬ land,whereonecouldseetheshellof oneofBuckminsterFuller’sgeodesic domes;andButterIsland,ownedby the Cabot family of Boston, who helpedstarttheMaineCoastHer¬ itageTrust.
EagleIslandisstillpartlyownedby theQuinnfamily-Mainenatives,gen¬ erations of whom have lived and workedthereforahundredyears. Theweekend1spentthereinoneof their old houses was most memo¬ rable,walkingtheoldpathsdownto thesea,byanoldcemetery,visiting anoldschoolhouselastusedinthe 1950s(thesmellofitbroughtback memoriesoftheMountDesertFerry Schoolhouse in Hancock, where I spentthefirstfiveyearsofschool). One could hear the sound of the oceanfromallpartsoftheisland. Therewasthewonderfulsensation of being surrounded by water and beingcutofffromtherestofthe world. ■
SEASCAPES
casuallyelegantdiningoverlooking Cape Porpoise Harbor Lunch & dinner served daily
RecipientofWitteSpectator'sAwardofExcellence Cape Porpoise, Kennebunkport, Maine 967-8500
TheveneerofCamden—theglittering,theremodeled, thefreshlypainted—iseasytofind.Whatisharderto locatearethepiecesofCamdenthatareconnectedtoits historyandgeography,toitsnativeindustriesofrock, wood,andsea,tothelandscapesandseascapesthatin¬ spired generations of painters. Camden has not dis¬ appeared;it’sjustbeenpushedunderthesurface,out towardtheedges,andintotheneighboringtowns.Butits remnantsareeverywhere.
TheWindjammersintheharbor,nowoutfittedforpass¬ engersratherthancargo,aresomeofCamden’smostim¬ pressive remnants. These 2-masted wooden schooners— somehistoric,somereplicas—arethesmallercousinsof the5-masters.Theyreachaboutahundredfeetlongand carrytwotothreedozenpassengersforweek-longcruises alongthecoast.OnSundayafternoons,youcansitonthe slopinglawnatHarborParkandwatchthesilentparade asthesesurvivorsofthewoodenshiperafloatoutofthe harbor and into the Penobscot Bay. Some motor out, othersusethetraditionalyawlboatstopushthemoutto theopenwaterastheyraisesail.
AtthetopoftheparkistheCamdenlibraryandthe open-air Bok Amphitheater, the site of summertime concerts,andanotherniceplacetositandwatchthe boatsgoby.WhatIlikeaboutthelibrary,asidefromthe factthatthebestpieceofrealestateintownisdevotedto apublicbuilding,areitstallceilingsand18-footwindows whichlookouttothewater.BuiltbyParkerMorseHooper
Robert C. Jenks
in1827,thelibraryisneo-Georgian indesign,anddecoratedwiththe architect’scollectionofhistoricship paintings.Italsohasacollectionof books and archival material on Pulitzer Prize-winner Edna St. Vincent Millay, who was born in Rockland and grew up in Camden. Youdon’thavetogointothelibrary tofindMillay,however.Herpoem “Renascence,” which pays homage toCamden’s“threelongmountains” and“threeislandsinabay,”seems tobepostedallovertown.
Atfirstglance,thetown centerlookslikeaHol¬ lywoodset,especially since MBNA moved in¬ totheoldKnoxMilland paintedthewholeblockinthecom¬ panycolorsofputtygraywithgreen trim.I’veheardCamdencalled“Ken¬ nebunkportwithfewerletters,”andif youwalkalongBayviewStreetand partsofthewaterfront,youmight alsomistakeitforPortsmouth,New¬ port,orevenCarmel.Butremnants of Camden are here as well. The MegunticookRiver,whichoncepow¬ eredthemill,stillrushesthrough townandintotheharborunderthe SmilingCow.OnMain,Elm,andparts ofMechanicStreet,theoriginalbrick architectureisintact.Ifyousquint, ortakeyourglassesoff,theshopson Main Street could be selling dry goods,kindlingwood,andglassjars ofmilkinsteadofT-shirtsanddesign¬ erjewelry.
There’s more of Camden outside the center. Grand 19th century homes,manyconvertedtoinns,take advantage of the views on High Street. Shipbuilder Holly Bean’s house is on Mountain and High. Headingnortharethehistoricinns: WindwardandAbigail’s,intheGreek Revivalstyle;theturretedHawthorn Inn;Whitehall,wheretheteenagedMillayworkedandrecitedpoetry; thestonemansion,Norumbega;and thelistgoeson.
ResidentialChestnutStreet,onthe othersideoftown,islinedwithold¬ er, more modest houses, painted New England white, and decorated with plaques showing their age (1800,1877,1850...).Chestnutwill carryyouawayfromthecrowdsand
provide slivers of harbor views, peekingoutfromthespacesbetween thehouses.TheChestnutStreetBap¬ tistChurch,nearthecornerofMain, isclassicNewEngland:towering, white,austere,withbitsofcolorrel¬ egatedtonarrowstainedglasswin¬ dows.Headingsouth,at63Chestnut, sitstheoldesthomeintown,the NathanBrownHouse.Builtin1780, itshowsitsagebyitschimney,an oversized brick square placed smack-dab in the middle of the house—Colonialeracentralheating. AcrossthestreetisanotherColonial, builtin1795,withthesamewide, centeredchimney.
Itisalsopossibletofindpieces of Camden outside the town line.WashingtonStreet(Route 105)andMountainStreet(Rte. 52)willtakeyououtoftown andintonature.Thetworoadsfol¬ lowoppositesidesoftheMegunti¬ cook River as it turns into a ragged-edgedlake.Thereareacou¬ ple small beaches—Barrett’s Cove off52andShirttailPointoff105—and a wooded preserve at Fernald’s Neck,whichjutsintothelake.The pinegrovesinFernald’sNeckmake foracoolingwalk.Ontheeastsideof thelakeloomsMt.Megunticook,the secondhighestpeakontheAtlantic Seaboard.LookingupfromBarrett’s Cove,youcanusuallyseeafewrock climbers dangling from the sheer granitefaceofMaidenCliff.
Lincolnville,tothenorthandwest ofCamden,isoldroadsandhouses, invaryingstatesofrepairanddisre¬ pair.Ifyou’relucky,theblack-eyed Susanswillbeinbloominthemead¬ owsandroadsidegullies.TheCenter GeneralStore,onRoute173inLin¬ colnvilleCenter,hasbeenastore sinceatleast1880,sellingeverything from ammo to ice cream to under¬ wear.Theinventoryisalittlemore specializednow,butit’sstillagener¬ alstore,which,astheownersliketo say,stocks“everythingbuttattoos andhaircuts.”Andit’sstillaplaceto getasandwichandacoffeeandtake aseatinside,oroutfront,andwatch thecomingsandgoings.
LikeCamden,theneighboringvil¬ lageofRockporthasaharborfullof history. But Rockport’s harbor—a
longthinbladethatcutsabruptly intothehills—didnotlenditselfto thebuildingandlaunchingofships. Itstallgranitepeaks,whichloom directlyovertheharbor,madeRock¬ portacenterfortheprocessingand shippingoflimerockandgavethe townitsname.Relicsofthisindus¬ try—large furnaces made of brick and stone—survive at the public MarineParkontheharbor.Inyears past,thesekilnsburnedallnight, making lime from the limestone, packingitintobarrels,andloading themintocargoschoonerswaiting docksideafewfeetaway.
Fishingandlobsterboatsstillmoor inRockportHarbor,but,asinCam¬ den,pleasurecraftnowoutnumber workingboats.Thisharborisnotas comfortableasCamden’s,anddoes notattracttheostentatiousyachtsof itsneighbor.Butthereareplentyof smallersailboatshere,andthose whosleepaboardcantellyouabout the rough waters that cause the motion known as the “Rockport Roll.”Severaltraditionalboatshere offersailingtrips,includingthehis¬ toric2-mastedschoonerTimberwind, builtinPortlandin1931,andthe handsome wooden sloopShantihII.
The Camden-Rockport area has captivatedartistsandcraftsmakers forcenturies.InRockport,theArti¬ sans School helps preserve the area’s shipbuilding tradition by teaching students how to build woodenboats.Upthehill,perched overtheharbor,MaineCoastArtists carriesontheartstraditionand bringsituptodate.Thenonprofit group shows contemporary work by Maineartistsintheroomygalleries ofaconvertedfirehouse.Aroundthe corner,onCentralStreet,theMaine Photographic Workshops hums with aspiringandestablishedphotogra¬ phers and cinematographers. The workshopsarepricey,buttheschool hasasmallprintgallery,andoffers occasionallecturesopentothepub¬ lic.
Rockportisafineplacetoseecon¬ temporary Maine art, but for the more familiar landscapes and seascapes, you will have to head south. Some of the best views of Camden are in Rockland, at the FarnsworthMuseum.Lotsoftourists
knowRocklandastheplacetocatch theferrytoVinalhaven,Matinicus, andotherislands.Andsomesnobby midcoastersliketocharacterizethe areaas-Camdenbythesea;Rock¬ landbythesmell.”Rockland’shar¬ borispragmaticratherthanquaint. Ithasplentyofsailboats,afewwind¬ jammers,andlotsoftraditionalcraft availableforcruises.Buttheseare overwhelmed by the big fishing boatsthatdieselfromtheportoutto theopenoceanlookingforground fish,sardines,lobster.Flankedby canneries,RocklandHarborisacom¬ mercialfishingcenter,anditships outmorelobsterthananyportinthe world.
Thetown’sMainStreethasdiners, bookstores, a pharmacy with soda fountain,abank-turned-artgallery. Rougharoundtheedges,itsarchitec¬ ture—Colonial and Greek Revival, Mansard, Italianate—has nonethe¬ lessearneditaplaceonNational RegisterofHistoricPlaces.Italso retainsalittlesomethingofwhat Camden once was—a working har¬ bortownwithartisticleanings.
The Farnsworth Museum, at the southern end of MainStreet,isaware¬ housefortwoandahalf centuries of Maine im¬ ages.Thepaintingshererecordthe passingoftimeontheislands,the coast,andtheinterior.Theyalso showhowMaine’selusivelight,land, andseahaveprovidedendlessinspi¬ rationandimpactedthemajormove¬ mentsinAmericanart.
You can see old Camden in Alvan Fisher’sCamdenHarbor,paintedin 1850,inthesoftnaturalismofthe Hudson River style. Winslow Hom¬ er’s bold hand and unsympathetic eyecapturetherageandpowerof theMainecoast.Homeralsocaught thefamilies,thefishermen,andAGirl inaPunt.Afewyearslater,theAmer¬ icanImpressionistsbroughttheir happycolorstoMaineandpainted thecoastinidyllicsummerscenes andsaturatedafternoonlight.
Thenthereisthedramaofthenew realists,Henri,Kent,Hopper,who builtonHomer’svitalityandpainted the drama of waves, rock, small dories,islandlife.GeorgeBellows
Newcastle Square, Business Rt 1, Newcastle, Me 04553 Phone207-563-1002Fax207-563-3445Hours:Mon-Sat9-5
CourtQualityInsurance&EstateAppraisals•EstateAuctionService• AlwaysPurchasingQualityAntiquesIncluding:FineJewelry,Silver,Art, Clocks,Furniture,China&Accessories.Bonded de LicensedinMaine, Mass. & Florida • Member of MADA, MAA, NEAA, NWCA & ANA
While the Kotzschmar Organ
isinstorageduringCityHallAuditoriumrenovations,Friends oftheKotzschmarOtgan(FOKO)ispresentingorganconcerts at ST LUKE'S CATHEDRAL, 143StateStreetinPortland. AllconcertsareonTuesdaysat730pm.
was fascinated with the Camden shipyardsandpaintedtheskeletons andgutsofthegiantships,surround¬ ed by the mice-sized people who builtthem.PainterslikeMarguerite Zorach and John Marin brought a modernistenergytothelandscape andseascapetraditions,andmany morehavefollowedthem.
The Farnsworth devotes special attentiontoitslocals:sculptor LouiseNevelson,aRocklandnative, and the Wyeth family, which sum¬ merednearby.TheWyethcollection rangesfromN.C.’srichislandscenes tothestark,melancholyprecisionof hisson’sandgrandson’swork.Like thebestshortstories,Andrewand JamieWyeth’sportraitsofhouses, rooms,andpeoplerelyontelling details:tornshades,thesea-moist curlsunderawatchman’scap,the oneominouswaveinthedistanceof amanadrift.
ThereareremnantsofCamdenev¬ erywhere.Buttogetapictureofthe whole of Camden, one must climb aboveitandlookdown.MountBat¬ tie,whichcanbereachedbyfootor bycar,istheplacetogoforthisview. AgoodplacetoaccessMt.Battieis fromCamdenHillsStatePark,which alsohasplayfields,picnicareas,and 5000acresoftrails,fromrugged climbstoleisurelyshore-sidestrolls.
Captured in hundreds of paintings and photo¬ graphs, the view from MountBattieisjustifiably famous.Itlooksdownon theharborandouttothebay,across thebaytoBlueHill,evenBarHarbor. Everywherewhitesails,likeseagulls, alightonthewater,andtuftsof green—islandsandpeninsulas—rise upfromtheblue.Fromuphere,the town of Camden looks almost un¬ touched.Thewhitesteepleofthe churchmirrorsthespiresofthehar¬ borboats,whilethehousesfollow theslopeoftheshorelineandtuck themselvesintothehills.Likeevery¬ thinginthisarea,thisparkispopular insummerandnottheplacetogofor aserenecommunewithnature.The viewfromthetopofBattie,however, isoneofthoseplacesthatdeserves everynicewordthat’severbeensaid aboutit. I
Now that the Camden Opera House is 1(X) years old. (his year might be a gcxxi one to lake in some theater. On July 5 and 6. (here’s "The Road to Mecca." fol¬ lowed by "Camelot” from August 9-24. On July 2427, at Camden’s Bok Amphitheater you can sec Shakespeare’s "A Midsummer Night's Dream.” Tickets are from $5-S8; for information, call 236-2281.
On July 18. the Camden Garden Club will sponsor a House & Garden Tour that lakes in some of the finest homes in the region, several of them built by American industrialists during the Victorian and Shingle Style Periods. Tickets for these guided tours can be purchased at the Congregational Church in Camden on July 18th only. 236-9797.
On July 20-21 (here’s a Juried Arts & Crafts Show in Camden, where over 100 artists and people of crafts will show (heir work, including paintings, handmade jewelry, drawings, and basketry in the lovely Harbor Park area which includes the Camden Amphitheatre (part of the Camden library) and Atlantic Avenue area at the head of the harbor. Among (he artists represented is photographer Neil Parent, whose haunting black and white images startle you like a lobster coming out of the fog. Photographer Kevin White of Union will be there as well. Maiden Maine baskets will be on exhibit and for sale, as well as the work of Susan Blaisdell, weaver. Beautiful water views surround this out¬ standing summer event. For more information, call 236-4404.
If you love things nautical, you’ve got to travel to Camden (his summer, courtesy of Governor Angus King, who will proclaim July "Maine Windjammer Month." As pan of the celebration, he’s going to be racing other New England governors at the Governor’s Cup Windjammer Regatta, which will start in Islcsboro and end in North Haven. On July 5. there's a race-the 20lh annual Great Schooner Race-from North Haven to the Rockland Breakwater, after which there will be a parade of sail across Rockland Harbor. This kicks off (he Schooner Days Festival in Rockland from July 5-7, which, after a host of nautical exhibitions and good eating, culminates with fireworks at Harbor Park. Then enthusiasts can actually walk aboard 10 of the vessels during Windjammer Open Houses. July 7. Later in the summer, on the weekend of August 30-September 1. experience Windjammer Weekend, the nationally renowned celebration of the Windjammer fleet that transforms Camden Harbor. This is the area’s second annual event of that name, featuring (he renowned w indjammers Mary Day, Grace Hailey, Mercantile, Mistress, Timberwind, Victory Chimes, Angelique. Lewis R. French, and Roseway. There will be open tours on a number of these vessels, while others w ill be out sailing in the center of the harbor. There will also be lobster crate races (people actually run across them in a hobbled dance), boat-building demonstrations, and knot¬ tying clinics as well as the parade of sail. Live music
witnantiques,j places,privatebaths(jacuzzi.steamorstandard), air conditioning and cable 73. Breakfast and tea included. Fine dining and tavern. Entertainment. Great packages available. Open year-round. Major creditcardsaccepted.Callforreservations.Out¬ side Maine 1-800-342-6423. Gray family. Innkeepers.
4TUN€S j SINGING TELEGRAM CO. “THEBALLOONLAW" SusieHiggins BEST PRICE-VALUE WellsThruBoothbayHartxx SAME DAY DELIVERY "Always in Good Tasto" 781-2500
SINCE 1982 FALMOUTH, ME SCAih About fiarbrr #b°P CuartetiSL
2Cah'onalfjtGeE6ratecf JTCaine-JITadeTbitert/ 50% off atouroutlets
Our current exhibition "From Souchong Teas to Canton Silks: The Exotic China Trade in Everyday Maine, 1760-1900" featuresawideassortmentof China Trade goods ranging from exportfurniture,elegantporcelains, luscioussilks,bronzes,ivories,andshipportraitstosimpletoys andhumbleteacrates.
Forgreatchowder•burgers•sandwiches•salads ...andallthelatestgossip. Eventuallyeveryoneshowsuptoshareagoodtime at Cuppy’s ... The Maine Should Bel
Stop by Gappy’s Bakery & Coffee House, too! ...forpastries,cappuccino,espresso,gifts,haglunches,picnic supplies, our own jams and chowder, yummy croissants, wonderfid breads, newspapers, and much more! OneMainStreet•207-236-2254 Opendaily7:30a.m.’tilmidnight
UnderthegreenstripedawningintheheartofCamden
ADVERTISEMENT during the evening will be capped off by a fireworks display Friday night. For more information, call 236-4404.
This summer in Rockland, there’s a new dinner theater with sweeping views of Rockland Harbor called Outlore Theatre that should be a drawing card for the entire area. Shows will include The London Merchant, What the Butler Saw, Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?, Veronica's Room, The Importance ofBeingEarnest, and She Stoops to Conquer. Allyou-can-eat buffet dinners will be served at 6:30, with the show's starting at 8 p.m. There will also be one-act luncheon plays all summer, with deli snacks, soup, and salad served at 11:30 and curtain at 12:30, among them: RuralPlay,BeforeBreakfast,TheAct, David Mamet’s Mr. Happiness and Sermon, A Smell of Burning, Pinter’s A Slight Ache, Tennessee Williams's The Case of the Crushed Petunias, and Shaw’s Passion,Poison,andPetrifaction (July 26August 30). For more information, call 594-2522.
And even if you’re not staying at the Whitehall Inn (there arc many stunning resorts), it’s worth a stop to see the collection of Edna St. Vincent Millay memorabilia they have in their lobby, from letters to locks of hair to rare photographs. It was at this hotel that (he young poet was discovered. Life was not easy for the red-headed phenomenon, who lived a raw-knuckled childhood here with her mother and sister Norma. Performing at the end of one summer at the annual Waitresses’ Ball at the Whitehall Inn, Edna so impressed a New York visitor staying late into the season with her poem “Renascence’’ that she offered to put Edna through all four years of Vassar-free! The poem both captures the spirit of the area and launched the very cosmopolitan career of the woman who would later teach us to “light the candle at both ends.”
AmericasMaineStreet ForOutletShopping
Route95toExit 3 (CoastalRouteI). Open 7 daysaweek. Plentyoffreeparking.
Oneofthelargestcollectionsoffactoryoutletstoresinthe world,Kittery,Maine,hasbeenchosenbyWomensDayMagazine as the number onj outlet shopping area in the country
Ml Kitteryboasts 120 famous brand name factory outlets with 20-75% off first quality merchandise every day More thanamileoffamousnamefashions,footwear,jewelry,china, crystal,books,toys,housewares,sportinggoodsandmore.
One of my favorite summer feelings is slippingintoanicy movietheaterafter slippingoutofacold margarita,andhappily,bothof thesesensationsarepossibleat the Tex-Mex Cafe, 333 Clarks Pond, South Portland, beside Hoyt’sTheater.
And on Friday and Saturday nights,lookforthezesty,talented TerryBarrettBand-ear-smackin’ Tex-MexmusicastrueasElvin Bishop’sbluejeans.Thisisterrif¬ icliveentertainmentandacredit totherestaurant.
Justbesureandfinishontime. It’shardsmugglingTex-Mexfood into a movie. H
Kittery
The Audubon Room at the Inn by the Sea on Route 77 in Cape Elizabeth combines breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean with culinary masterpieces that feature fresh local produce, native seafood specialties, and exceptional homemade breads and desserts prepared on the premises. Some house favorites include Grilled Salmon with an Orange Basil Vinaigrette, Sauteed Oysters with Porcini and Champagne, and Lemon Custard Tan with Maine Blueberries. Patio dining and cany-out available. 767-0888.
Known for its fine service and ambience, Baker’s Table at 434 Fore Street and 41 Wharf Street is an intimate bistro complete with an outdoor deck and an open kitchen that has been serving up lobsters, shellfish, and fresh fish for over 25 years. Prime beef and filet mignon are cooked to perfection, and you can also sample fresh pastas, special vegetarian dishes, Tex-Mex, and ethnic dishes. There’s a full bar and wines, and a bakery with daily breads and desserts, as well as great soups, salads, and sandwiches served from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call 775-0303. Fax orders: 761-4444. For parlies call 773-3333.
Bangkok City Thai and Seafood Restaurant, One City Center. Formerly known as Thai Garden Restaurant, the finest Thai restaurant in Maine is now open under new management with a new reducedprice menu. Specializing in seafood dishes and other authentic Thai recipes prepared by an experienced chef, Bangkok City is open for dinner seven days a week with a lunch buffet Monday-Friday. Catering, take-out, delivery ($20 minimum order), and free onehour parking at One City Center Parking Garage are available. For reservations call 772-1118.
Cafe Stroudwater, located in the Embassy Suites Hotel at the Portland Jetport, specializes in American bistro cuisine with an emphasis on native seafood and prime cuts of meat, but it is Chef William Boutwell’s creative touches—like shrimp and lobster Napoleon with grilled eggplant, goat cheese, and red peppers served over a tomato coulis—that make this dining experience like no other in Portland. In addition to a spectacular Sunday brunch, the Cafe also offers wine dinners, Portland’s only Chef’s Table, and a fine selection of locally brewed beers. For reservations call 775-0032.
Carbur’s Restaurant,123 Middle Street, Portland, offers great food in a casual and relaxed atmosphere. Take some time to enjoy your favorite cocktail or soft drink as you read over the extensive menu with selections ranging from Teriyaki Sirloin or Chicken to Fish'n’Chips, not to mention the munchies and salads. And if it’s a sandwich you seek, you’ve found the right place: over 70 outrageous “Grandwich" combinations are available. 772-7794.
The Clay Oven, 565 Congress Street, serves authentic Indian cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. The moist kebabs are cooked on a slow charcoal fire, while the curries are prepared with freshly ground herbs and spices. Their exotic soups, fresh-baked breads, and savory rice specialties are also sure to please your palate. The Clay Oven is open for lunch and dinner, and beer, wine, and take-out are available. 773-1444. At David’s Restaurant you can sample four-star
entr6es featuring farm-fresh produce and native products like seafood sausage, sesame and coriander crusted tuna, or goat cheese packets with grilled vegetables (773-4340). David's at the Oyster Club, set in a converted open air market building, boasts an abundant raw bar, 20 varieties of seafood, lobster, fresh pasta, microbrews, and Maine's largest single malt scotches list (773-4340). Turino’s Stone Oven Pizzeria combines wild mushrooms, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, and fresh herbs to create authentic gourmet pizza from old Naples (780-6600). All three restaurants are located at 164 Middle Street.
You can’t beat the location of DiMillo's Floating Restaurant at 25 Long Wharf off Commercial Street for fabulous waterfront views of Portland Harbor. Escape from the hustle and bustle of the city by watching the boats go by as you enjoy fresh Maine lobster served year-round, steak, seafood dishes, and more. Open 7 days a week from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., with a children’s menu available. For drinks and a lighter menu, try their Portside Lounge. 772-2216.
Welcome to F. Parker Reidy’s, site of the original Portland Savings Bank built in 1866 at 83 Exchange Street. Established in 1976 during the Renaissance of the Old Port area, F. Parker Reidy’s has become a Portland fine dining tradition, specializing in steaks and fresh seafood, but also offering pasta, chicken, and salads, with prime rib featured on weekends. Turn-ofthe-century decor, personalized service, and great food create a warm and congenial atmosphere popular for both business and intimate dining. 773-4731.
Head over to Fresh Market Pasta at 43 Exchange Street/60 Market Street for the best homemade pastas and sauces in Portland, not to mention a variety of fantastic Italian breads, Italian wine and beers, espresso, cappuccino, biscotti, and other delicious desserts. Bring the whole family for lunch, dinner, and late night dining. 773-7146.
Deep in the heart of the mysterious Woodfords area at 540 Forest Avenue is The Great Lost Bear, where you'll find a full bar featuring over 50 (that's right, five-o) draught beers, predominantly from local microbreweries. Accompanying them is an enormous menu with everything from soups, salads, and sandwiches to steaks and ribs, as well as a large vegetarian selection and the best nachos and buffalo wings in town. Discover where the natives go when they’re restless’ Serving from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. seven days a week. 772-0300. Visit us online at: http://www.mainelink.net/bear/
At the Market Street Grille in the Portland Regency Hotel, spectacular cuisine, Old Port charm, and impeccable service come together in an elegant yet casual environment. Along with daily fresh specials featuring foods from land and sea, the Grille’s chef prepares unforgettable feasts like Seafood Fettucine with lobster, shrimp, and mussels; Baked Lobster with seafood stuffing; Steak Diane Tenderloin; and Veal Scaloppini. Visit 31 Market Street for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations accepted. 774-4200.
Voted “Best Pizza in Mame" for five consecutive years by the PPH and CBW. Ricetta’s Brick Oven Pizzeria
is truly a taste of the Old Country. M.E. Curly of the PPH raves: “Ricetta’s is arguably the best pizza west of Rome." Dine-in, take-out. delivery, and catering are available, and the all-you-can-eat gourmet lunch buffet includes pizzas, pastas, soups, and salads. With their newly expanded dining room you won't have to wait a lifetime for the best meal in town. Located at 29 Western Avenue, South Portland. Kids eat FREE on Mondays from 3 p.m. till close. 775-7400.
Saigon Thinh Thanh, 608 Congress Street, Portland. Just across Congress Square from the Sonesta Hotel and the Portland Museum of Art is Maine’s—and probably New England’s—finest Vietnamese restaurant. Four-star, spicy, exotic tastes jump from the delicious fish, pork, shrimp, and scallop dishes that include Vegetable Sate Rice Vermicelli, Bean Curd with Garlic Rice Vermicelli, Scallops with Snow Peas, and extraordinary curries and specials. 773-2932.
Fresh lobsters, shellfish, salmon, and local fish have been specialties at the historic Seamen's Club for over three generations, while aged beef, prime rib, quiches, fresh pasta, vegetarian and southwestern selections, home-baked breads and desserts, and fresh fruits and vegetables round out the menu. The best weekend brunches on the planet include soups, turkey sandwiches, and salads, and a full bar is always available. The Lunch and “Lite" menus are served from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. in a comfortable setting overlooking the harbor at 1 Exchange Street and 375 Fore Street in the hub of the Old Pori. Call 772-7311. Fax orders: 761-4444. No room charges ever for banquets and meetings: 773-3333.
Celebrate food at Squire Morgan’s, where you’ll find home cooking in a relaxed atmosphere. Lunch specials start at $4.95 and include a wide variety of soups, salads, chowders, sandwiches, burgers, and fresh¬ dough pizza. Dinner specials feature fresh grilled seafood in many different ethnic styles, as well as vegetarian and pasta dishes. Selections from their unique wine list are available by the glass or the bottle. Stop by 46 Market Street in front of the Portland Regency for great food and drink in the heart of the Old Port. 774-5246.
Tabitha Jean’s Restaurant at 94 Free Street offers you zesty American regional cuisine in a casual setting that is handicapped accessible and convenient to the State Theatre, the Civic Center, and the downtown arts district. Their fresh seafood, pasta, vegetarian dishes, grilled Entrees, homemade desserts, and extensive wine selection received an enthusiastic four-and-a-halfstar rating from Maine Sunday Telegram. Validated parking is available. 780-8966.
Tortilla Flat has been serving New Englanders fine Mexican food and drink for over 24 years. At 1871 Forest Avenue in Portland you can find favorites like nachos, fajitas, chimichangas, tamales, burritos, tacos, enchiladas, and frozen margaritas seven days a week, as well as seafood, steak, pork, and chicken cooked with a Mexican flair. With lunch specials starting at $3 95, a children’s menu, nightly specials, a Chili Happy Hour, a screened-in deck, and take-out. Tortilla Flat is a memorable Mexican experience you can afford any time. 797-8729.
PortlandSymphonyOrchestra,P.O.Box3573, 100ForeStreet,Portland,presents“Inde¬ pendencePops"—theirannualmusicalsalute to Independence Day—at 7:30 p.m. on Wednesday,July3atFortWilliamsParkin CapeElizabeth(rainsite:CumberlandCounty CivicCenter);at5:30p.m.onThursday,July4 attheFarmingtonFairgroundsinFarmington (rainsite:Mt.BlueHighSchool);at7:30p.m.on Friday, July 5 at Thomas Point Beach in Brunswick(rainsite:Mt.AraratHighSchool); andat7:30p.m.onSaturday,July6atShawnee PeakinBridgton(rainsite:LakeRegionHigh School).OntheprogramwillbeTchaikovsky’s 1812Overture. Broadway show tunes, and patrioticsongsandmarches,andafireworks displaywillfinishoffeachconcert.Advance ticketsare$12foradults,$10forchildrenand seniors,and$36forafamilyoffour;atthegate they’re$15/$12/$45.Call773-8191or1-800-6392309fortickets.
PortlandPerformingArts,25AForestAvenue, Portland,celebratesFrench-Canadianculture withtheFetedelaSaintJeanBaptisteat8p.m. onSaturday,June22attheStateStreetChurch, featuring performances by La Bottine Souriante,Quebec’sfolkorchestra;theMaine FrenchFiddlers;BenoitBourque,step-dancer extraordinaire;masterfiddlerandsingerGuy Bouchard; and Acadian chanteuse Florence RoseMartin(tickets$16).NextupisRichard Thompson,theemperorofEnglishfolk-rock,at 8p.m.onSaturday,June29attheStateStreet Church(tickets$16).BoxOffice:761-1545.
StateTheatre,609CongressStreet,Portland. The Maine Gay Men's Chorus with special guestHollyNearwillbewarblingat8p.m.on Saturday,June15(tickets$16.50to$35), followedbytheRobertCrayBandat8p.m.on Wednesday,July17(tickets$22.50to$40).Call 773-5540fortickets,anddon’tmiss Portland Monthly photographerKevinLeDuc’sexhibitof backstage and performance photos of acts from Bo Diddley to Bob Dylan who have
appearedattheStatesinceearly1994(onview Monday-Friday 9:30-5:00 and 10-4 on Saturdays).
Portland’sDowntownDistrict,400Congress Street,isonceagainsponsoringaweekday seriesoffreenoontimeconcertsinPortland’s downtownparksandplazas.Thisyear’slineup includes:originalacousticrockbyDanMerrill on July 1 at Post Office Park (PO); CS Choristers“BestofBroadway”onJuly2in CongressSquare(CS);PirunSenCambodian song and dance for children on July 3 at Tommy’sPark(TP);singer-songwriterMindy Ray on July 8 (PO); brass duo Scott VaillancourtandSamWoodheadonJuly9(CS); fairytalespresentedbyUSMSummerTheater onJuly10(TP);KingMemphisRockabillyon July11atMonumentSquare(MS);Freefall eclecticacappellaonJuly12(TP);Barney Martin(acousticsoftrock)onJuly15at LobstermanPark;bluegrass/countryguitarist AlHawkesonJuly16(CS);storiesandsongs forchildrenpresentedbythePortlandPublic LibraryonJuly17(TP);LisaGallantSealand theBrotherhoodDogs(acousticpoweredrock) on July 18 (MS); Rog and Ray “tropical tumbleweed"onJuly19(PO);soloflutistKaren HansenonJuly22(PO);AnniClark(acoustic folk/rock/blues)onJuly23(CS);and“African ImagesComeAlive"byAlfinodaFarrayand
Kennebunk Beach, Maine 04043 (207)967-3850•Fax(207)967-4719
FreshNativeWhitewater...
OscarMokemeonJuly24(TP).Call772-6828 fordetails.
Portland Parks & Recreation, 17 Arbor Street,Portland,presentsanother“Summerin theParks"seriesoffreeoutdoorconcerts. Tuesday evening performances in Deering OaksParkwillfeatureaperformerstillTBAat 7:30p.m.onJune18;SlaidCleaves&the Moxiesat7:30p.m.onJune25;AlHawkes& HisStringFusionat7:30p.m.onJuly2;an artistTBAat7:15p.m.onJuly9;theZingo ZangoGenericJugBandat7:15p.m.onJuly 16;andaperformerstillTBAat7p.m.onJuly 23. Performers in the Wednesday evening “SunsetFolkSeries"ontheWesternPromwill includeMarkFarringtonat8p.m.onJune19; anartistTBAat8p.m.onJune19;Doug&Deb at8p.m.onJuly3;RexFowlerat8p.m.on July10;MarrianneChattertonat7:45p.m.on July17;andDarienBrahmsat7:45p.m.on July24.ChandlersBandwillplayaseriesof ThursdaynightconcertsatFortAllenParkat 7:30p.m.onJuly4(withfireworksat9:15 p.m.);at7:30p.m.onJuly11;at7:30p.m.on July18;andat7:15p.m.onJuly25.Therewill alsobechildren’sentertainers(allstillTBA) at 12:30 p.m. in Deering Oaks Park on ThursdaysJuly11,18,and25.Call874-8791or 874-8793formoreinformation.
YarmouthHistoricalSociety, P.O.Box107, Main Street, Yarmouth, is sponsoring two performances of baroque and classical chamber music played on original instru¬ mentsbymembersofProMusicaRaraatthe Old Meetinghouse on the Hill on Hillside StreetinYarmouth.Thefirstconcert,at8 p.m.onTuesday,June11,featuresbaroque flutistChristopherKrueger—principalflutist ofBoston’sHandel&HaydnSociety—joining IvanStefanoviconviolin,AllenWhearon violoncello,andShirleyMathewsonharp¬ sichordtoperformBach’sTrioSonatainG andFluteSonataing,Dornel’sViolinSonatain d,andTelemann’s“Paris"QuartetNo.6ine. TheTuesday,June18concert,alsoat8p.m., featuresCynthiaRobertsonviolin,Allen Whearonvioloncello,andShirleyMathewson fortepianoforMozart’sViolinSonataine, Haydn’sTrioinAb,andBeethoven’sSonata forClavierandVioloncelloing.Incelebration ofthe200thanniversaryoftheMeetinghouse, bothconcertswillalsoincludeafewpiecesof musicpopularinAmericaduringthe1790s. Ticketsare$14foradults,$12forseniors,and $5forfull-timestudents;orasubscriptionto bothconcertscosts$22foradultsand$20for seniors.Call846-6259.
SacoRiverGrangeHall,SalmonFallsRoad, BarMills.OnSaturday,June15internationally acclaimed virtuoso double bassist Paul ErhardjoinsforceswithPortlandSymphony Orchestra harpist Jara Goodrich for a classicalconcertat7:30p.m.(ticketsare$9 foradultsand$7forstudentsandseniors). Anddon’tforgetcontra-dancingwithlive acousticmusicprovidedbytheversatileSea SlugscontinuesonthefirstSaturdayofevery monthat7:30p.m.Admissionis$4foradults and$2forchildren,witha$10maximumper family(beginnersandsinglesarewelcome). Call929-6472.
Bowdoln Summer Music Festival, Bowdoin College, Brunswick. The theme of this summer’sprogrammingis“FromRussiawith Love"; thus, the Friday night MusicFest
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
concertseriesbeginsat8p.m.onJune28in Brunswick High School’s Crooker Theatre withvirtuosoRussianpianistOxanaYab¬ lonskayajoiningthefestivalorchestrafora Tchaikovskypianoconcerto,alongwithworks by Shostakovich and Glinka. The July 5 concertwillfeaturepianistEmmaTahmizian playingMussorgsky’s PicturesatanExhibition, baritoneKurtOilmansingingTchaikovskyand Strauss,andNewYorkPhilharmonicprincipal bassoonistJudithLeClairandthefestival windsperformingTelemann’s Tafelmusik. On July12BritishcellistColinCarrwillbethe soloistforTchaikovsky’sVariationsona Rococo Theme, followed by works of Pro¬ kofievandStravinsky.ThenonJuly19the orchestrawilltackleShostakovich’s5th SymphonyandTchaikovsky’sViolinConcerto inI),assistedby22-year-oldSwedishvirtuoso TobiasRingborg(ticketsforeachMusicFest concertare$15;seasonticketscost$75).
Meanwhile, the Wednesday night UpBeat! seriesofinformalconcerts(June26-July31at 7 p.m. in Kresge Auditorium at Bowdoin College,exceptforthelastconcert,whichwill be held in the Bowdoin Chapel) offers listeners a mixture of contemporary and traditionalworks(tickets$8).Thisyear’s OutdoorFamilyConcert—at5p.m.onSunday, July 7 on the Bowdoin Quad—features Prokofiev’s PeterandtheWolf narratedby GeorgeIsaacson,aswellastraditionalRussian dancers,doorprizes,raffles,andrefresh¬ ments(ticketsare$5foradultsand$2for children;raindateisMonday,July8at7 p.m.).Forticketscall725-3895.
Offering a complete line of University of Maine and Black Bear insignia gift items and clothing.
Hockey Jerseys, Glassware Starter jackets and much, much more!
Receive a free tote with a $50 purchase.
Tel: 207-874-9535
University Shoppe Summer Hours: (Memorial Day through Labor Day) Monday-Friday, 10AM-6PM Saturday, 10AM—3PM
and
STILLWATER GALLERY
PORTLAND CENTRE
University of Maine Department of Art—Faculty Exhibits; Museum of Art; Hudson Museum—Traditional and Contemporary Cultures; Page Farm & Home Museum and Maine Forest & Logging Museum.
Maine's Center of Learning, Discovery and Service to the Public.
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
be performed, instead, in Camden’s Bok Amphitheater.TheseasonbeginsMay31-June9 withthechildren’sclassic“ThePhantom Tollbooth."Itcontinueswith“TheRoadTo Mecca" July 5th and 6th, and Lerner and Loewe's“Camelot,"August9-24.AStreetcar NamedDesirearrivesinOctober.Pricesrange from$8to$5.Call236-2281fi?tinformationand advanceticketreservations.
CarouselMusicTheater BoothbayHarbor's theaterbringsNewYorktalenttoMaineforthe summerseason.JaneMcKenneysaysabout80 people audition for seven parts and the opportunity to spend the summer in New England.ThisyeartheTownsendAvenuestage willsee“Showstoppers,"acollectionofvig¬ nettesfrom“TheBellsAreRinging,"“Show¬ boat,”and“Oklahoma,"openingMay26.July welcomes“GeorgeM.Cohan’s“GiveMyRegards toBroadway,"and“SpeakeasyBlues"begins August 5th. “Broadway Backstage Review" opensSeptember9th,withaselectionofsongs from“AChorusLine,"“Gigi"and“Company.”An extratreatisthatdinnerisincludedinyour$22 ticketfee.Call633-5297fortimesandtickets.
GaslightTheater.PerforminginHallowell’sCity HallseemsappropriateforMaine’slongest continuouslyrunningtheatergroup;Hallowellis thestate’soldestcity,afterall.DoreeAustin directs“SteelMagnolias,”aplayabouta Louisiana beauty parlor operating in a convertedgarage.ShowdatesrunJune27-July7. Performancesare8p.m.,andaspecial2p.m. matineeJuly7.“Gaslight”followsahusband’s slowtortureofhisgentlewife,pushingher towardinsanity,andadetective’sstruggleto saveher.ItrunsSeptember5-14.Call626-3698 forticketinformationandpricesatthe1 WinthropStreetlocation.
Grand Auditorium.GeorgiaKellyinsistsyou can’tmissthistheaterat167MainSt.,Ellsworth. “It’sthebiggestthingintown.”Amusical,“The Pajama Game," opens May 10th and runs throughthe26th.Timesare8p.m.Fridaysand Saturdays,and2p.m.Sundays.Ticketscost$12 foradults,$10forseniorsandchildrenaged8 through16.Boxoffice:667-9500.
Mad Horse Theatre, 955F Forest Avenue, Portland.InJeffreyHatcher’spsychological thriller ScotlandRoad, a young woman is discoveredfloatingonanicebergintheNorth Atlantic,andtheonlywordshecanutteris Titanic (throughJune16at8p.m.ThursdaySaturdayandat7p.m.onSundays).Nextupis Oh,Coward!, amusicalcomedyreviewbythe inimitablyeffervescentNoelCowardJuly1920and26-27andAugust2-4,9-11,16-18,and 23-25at8p.m.Friday-Saturdayandat7p.m. onSundays.Ticketsare$18foradultsand$16 forstudentsandseniors,andSaturdaytickets are$20/$18,withapay-what-you-cannight Sunday,August4.BoxOffice:797-33:18.
MaineStateMusicTheatre, 14MaineStreet, Suite109,Brunswick,appropriatelybegins their38thseasonwithamusicalsetincoastal Maine:RodgersandHammerstein’s Caroused (June11-22).Next Singin'intheRain (June25July6)takesyoutoHollywoodinthe1920sas the advent of sound shakes up the film industry.Followingthat Evita (July9-27) chroniclesEvaPeron’srisetopowerasthe wifeofArgentineandictatorJuanPeron.Then Ain’tMisbehavin' (July 30-August 10) celebratesthelifeandmusicofFatsWallerin Harleminthe1930s.Theseasonendsbackin Mainewiththepremiereof Chamberlain:A TrueCivilWarRomance (August13-24),an originalmusicaldepictingMaineCivilWar heroGeneralJoshuaLawrenceChamberlain’s struggletobalancepublicdutyandprivate devotion.Curtainisat8p.m.Tuesday-Sunday, with2p.m.matineesWednesdayandFriday of the first week and Sunday, Tuesday. Thursday,andFridayofthesecondweekof eachproduction.Ticketscost$18to$28.Box Office:725-8769.
OakStreetTheatre.Locatedat92OakStreet,
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
Portland,theOakStreetTheatredoesn’tfollow the pattern of other theaters’ summer schedules.Whilemanyrelyonlyonmusicals, big-namecomedies,orShakespearetodraw theatergoersinthewarmmonths,theOak StreetTheaterissuccessfulnonethelesswithits owndiverseselections.TheVintageRepertory Theater’s “Beyond Therapy," an off beat comedyabouttwoNewYorkers,deeplyinto therapy,whomeetthroughthepersonals, opensMay23andrunsthroughJune9.Mamet’s “SpeedthePlow”followsJune13-30.ThisAcorn ProductionsofferingisaboutaHollywood producer who must choose between a big¬ actionstoryandacerebraltaleforhisnext project.July11-28ushersinKymDakin’s “SpectaclesinSolitude,"aone-womanshow aboutovercomingthefearoflivingalone. Finally,MichaelHowardwilldirectChekov’s “UncleVanya"fromAugust1-18.Ticketscost $12,andtimesareThursday-Saturday,8p.m., andSundayat5p.m.MikeLevineisthemost knowledgeableandhelpfulpersonyoucould everhopewouldanswerthephone.Callhimat 775-5103.
OgunquitPlayhouse,P.O.Box915,Route1, Ogunquit,hasabusy64thseasonscheduled, beginning with David McCallum in the mysterythriller AngelStreet (June24-July6), followed by Lerner and Loewe’s beloved musical Brigadoon performed by a top Broadwaycast(July8-20),andthedizzy comedy Sylvia byA.R.GurneywithstarsTBA (July22-August3).Thentheelectrifying musical FiveGuysNamedMoe featuresLouis Jordan’sgreatesthits(August5-17),after whichBonnieFranklin.DodyGoodman,and DavidHedisoncloseouttheseasoninAndrew Bergman’s riotous comedy SocialSecurity (August19-31).Performancesareat8p.m. evenings(exceptSunday),with2:30p.m. matinees on Wednesday and Thursday. All seatsatallshowscost$23,andtheydon’t takecreditcards.BoxOffice:646-5511.
OutloreTheatreCompany,275MainStreet, Rockland,hasjustopenedabrand-newdinner theateroverlookingRocklandharborandwill be producing an ambitious and eclectic selection of plays rotating in repertory throughoutthesummer.Dinnerisanall-youcan-eatfullbuffetservedTuesday-Saturdayat 6:30p.m.(curtainisat8p.m.)priortofulllengthdramaticofferingssuchasthe16thcentury melodrama The London Merchant (June13-July12);therisqueBritishcomedy WhattheButlerSaw byJoeOrton(June12-July 13);EdwardAlbee’s Who'sAfraidofVirginia Woolf? (June12-July13);thesuspenseful Veronica'sRoom byIraLevin,authorof Death Trap (July 16-August 29); Oscar Wilde's satirical TheImportanceofBeingEarnest (July 23-August30);andOliverGoldsmith’stimeless comedy SheStoopstoConquer (July18-August 31).Dinnerandshowcosts$25.Forthosewho prefertobeearlytobedandearlytorise, Outlorealsoservesadeli,soup,andsalad lunchbuffetat11:30am.(curtainisat12:30 p.m.)followedbyone-actssuchas RuralPlay byBrentAskariofSouthPortland(June13July4);EugeneO’Neill’s BeforeBreakfast (June 11-July17); TheAct byMichaelSukach(June 14-July18);DavidMamet’smonologues Mr. Happiness and Sermon (June12-July19); A SmeltofBurning byDavidCampton(July9August28);HaroldPinter’s ASlightAche (June 20-August 29); TheCaseoftheCrushed Petunias by Tennessee Williams (July 24-
JohnLanePresents
JUNE 24 - JULY 6
DAVID McCALLUM in
Edge-of-your-seatmysterythriller
JULY 8 - JULY 20
Lerner and Lowe's triumph
thegreatclassicofAmericanmusicals
JULY 22 - AUGUST 3 VYILVIaX.
A.R. Gurney’s delicious, dizzy new comedy Stars To Be Announced
AUGUST 5 - AUGUST 17
theinfectious,electrifyingmusical
FIVE CUYS NaVMEIC MCE
featuringLouisJordan’sgreatesthits
AUGUST 19 - AUGUST 31 DODY GOODMAN and DAVID HEDISON
SCCIIAIL SECURITY
Andrew Bergman's riotously funny comedy success
Evenings except Sunday at 8:00 Wed. & Thurs. Matinees at 2:30 Air Conditioned BOX OFFICE 207-646*5511 U.S. Rt. 1 • P.O. Box 915, Ogunquit, Maine 03907.
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
August 27); and George Bernard Shaw’s Passion,Poison,andPetrifaction (July26August30).Lunchcosts$12forfoodand show. Call 594-2522 for tickets and informationaboutSundaybrunchmatinees andSaturdaylunchtimechildren’sbuffets andentertainment.
Penobscot Theatre Companyperformsonthe banksoftheriverinBangor,neartheMunicipal Marina.ArtisticdirectorMarkTorressaidthat rain’splayedavillainjustonceinthreeyearsof outdoor performances. So bring your own blanketsandchairs,anddon’tworryaboutthe umbrellaswhenyougotoseetothissummer’s WednesdaythroughSundayperformancesof Shakespeare’s“ComedyofErrors"and“AsYou LikeIt,"startingJuly31andrunningthrough August10.ThePenobscotTheatreCompany willalsoholdworkshopsinJulyandAugustfor childrenaged5to18years.Thepriceforshows attheirRailroadStreetlocationis$5.942-3333 fortimesandexactdates.
SacoRiverGrangeHall,SalmonFallsRoad, BarMills.July26-27andAugust1-3and8-10at 7:30p.m.theOriginalspresentthemusical Working, whichisbasedonreal-lifeinterviews with people of all professions from steelworker to housewife to parking lot attendanttoprostitute.Ticketscost$9for adultsand$7forstudentsandseniors,except on Thursdays, which is pay-what-you-can night.Call929-5412.
StateTheatre,609CongressStreet,Portland. Don’t miss SugarBabies—the burlesque musicalstarringMickeyRooney—at8p.m.on Thursday,JulyII(tickets$30to$48.50).Box office:879-1112.
The Theater Project, 14 SchoolStreet, Brunswick.BrushupyourShakespeareinone eveningorless,whentheTheaterProject Company puts on TheCompleatWorksof WllmShkspr,Abridged July5-6,11-13,and1820at8p.m.Thursday-Saturday.Ticketsare $12 for adults and $10 for students and seniors,with"2-for-l"nightonThursdaysand “pay-what-you-can" nights July 5 and 6. Meanwhile,theTheaterProject’stouring productionof TheHouseThatJackBuilt will beinresidenceforthreefamilymatineeson SaturdaysJuly6,13,and20at4p.m.(all tickets$5).BoxOffice:729-8584.
Theater at Monmouth.This275seattheater guaranteesthatnooneisevermorethan12 rowsfromthestage.Andshouldyougetstuck inthattwelfthrow,fearnot;theroomis acoustically perfect so microphones are unnecessary. Though the theater has the capabilityofbeing“tuned"byadjusting turnbucklesabovetheceiling,JoelleBochner saidshe’sneverseenit’sneedduringhertime there.“Thereisaspotonthestage,though," shesays,“whereifanactorhitsitjustright,the wholestageresonates.It’sthemostamazing energyboost"Shakespeare’s“AsYouLikeIt"
Vintage Repertory Companyistouringthis summer.BeginningattheOakStreetTheatre, May23-June9,theywillperform“Beyond Therapy,"aplayartisticdirectorJaneBergeron describes as an “improbable courtship” betweentwoNewYorkersinheavytherapy.The companywillperformagainJuly13and14,at Harrison'sDeertreesTheatre.Call774-1376for timesandprices.
Waterville Opera House came close to becomingcityhallofficespacebeforeanon¬ profitcorporationwasformedtosavethe theater’svelvetseats,carvedpiasterworkand goldleaffromapastmayor’sclutches.Because ofthisforesighttheatergoerswillbetreatedto NoelPaulStookeyandTimSampleJune8,at8 p.m.Ticketsare$15inadvanceand$18theday oftheshow.June14-16,ActIICommunity Theaterwillpresent“TheMousetrap."F.P. Productionswillfollowthatwith“Carousel” fromJune28-30andwillfinishoutthesummer seasonwithNeilSimon’s“GingerbreadLady” August9-11.Showtimesare8p.m.Fridaysand Saturdays,and2p.m.Sundays.Ticketpricesare $12foradultsand$10forchildrenandseniors. Call873-7000forinformation.
-TheaterlistingscompiledbyTomSt.Amand
DANCK
Maine State Ballet, 91 Forest Street, Westbrook,willpresentaSummerStorybook Series of benefit performances for the PortlandRonaldMcDonaldHouseJuly13-14 (AliceinWonderland and StarsandStripes Forever) andAugust3-4 (PeterandtheWolf and Western Roundup) at the Portland Performing Arts Center at 7:30 p.m. on Saturdayandat1:30p.m.onSunday.Tickets are$14foradultsand$8forchildrenand seniors.Call856-1663.
Ram Island Dance, 25A Forest Avenue, Portland, will give a free modern dance performanceInCongressSquareat7p.m.on Saturday,July13aspartoftheSummerinthe SquareFestivalofDance.Call773-2562.
MUSEUMS
PortlandMuseumofArt,7CongressSquare, Portland.The“ToddWebb:VitalPassages" exhibitreviews50yearsofworkbytheBath photographer, who is best known for his imagesofNewYork,Paris,andtheAmerican West,andforhisportraitsofGeorgiaO’Keeffe (throughJune30).“Perspectives"focuseson contemporaryMaineartistPaulD’Amato,a professoratMaineCollegeofArtwhoselargescalecolorphotographschroniclethelivesof urbanyouthinPortlandandintheChicago barrios (through July 7). “A Brush with Greatness:AmericanWatercolorsfromthe NovemberCollection"tracestheevolutionof theAmericanwatercolortraditionthrough
FEATURING WORKS BY A VARIETY OF ARTISTS FROM MAINE, NEW ENGLAND AND AROUND THE COUNTRY. A GROUP GALLERY FOR ORIGINAL ARTWORK, IN THE BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED CAPTAIN CHASE HOUSE, KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE.
Eccard
Julyist-31st
ARTIST'S RECEPTION
SaturdayJuly6t(i 5:00pmto7:00pm
PatternsofLi^t WATERCOLOR ON PAPER
T^e GALLERY on CHASE HILL IO CHASE HILL ROAD, PO BOX 2.786 KENNEBUNKPORT, M.E 04046 (IO/)967-OO49
TheOideHouse
GourmetDinerClubofNorthAmericaGoldenForkAward1996Dinnerserved5pm-10pmeachevening,includingSundays. I iso/,MasterCardResertationsAccepted 655-7841 Air Conditioned ftecuilPartiesbyPreviousArrangementsCasualDressAccepted Rt.85.Raymond(1mile A' of302or7milesSofRt11)
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
masterpiecesbyartistsfromWinslowHomer to Andrew Wyeth (through September 2). OpeningJune29,“Picasso,Braque,LSger,and theCubistSpirit:1919-1939”exploresthe influence of Cubism on French painting, sculpture, furniture design, household objects,fashion,architecture,andcinema between the World Wars (through October 20).“PhilippeHalsman:AGalleryofStars" documents the photographer’s ability to capture the “star quality” of American entertainerssuchasLucilleBall,MiltonBerle, Dinah Shore, William Holden, and Eddie Cantor (ongoing). July3-October 9 the museum is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. MondayWednesdayandSaturday;10a.m.to9p.m.on ThursdayandFriday;andnoonto5p.m.on Sunday.Admissionis$6foradults,$5for seniorsandstudents,$1forchildren6-12,and freeforeveryoneThursdayandFridayfrom 5p.m.to9p.m.andthefirstSaturdayofthe monthfrom10a.m.tonoon.Call773-ARTSor (800)639-4067.
Maine Historical Society Gallery, 489 CongressStreet,Portland.“FromSouchong TeastoCantonSilks:TheExoticChinaTrade inEverydayMaine,1700-1900”exploresthe strongtradetiesbetweenMainecommunities andChinathroughChinatradegoodssuchas clothing,accessories,ceramics,andother decorativeartsdrawnfromMainecollections (throughOctober31).TheGalleryisopen Wednesday-Saturday from noon to 4 p.m.; admissionis$2foradultsand$1forchildren under12.Forfurtherinformation,call8790427.
Children’sMuseumofMaine,142FreeStreet, Portland.Theinteractive“BugBuilders" exhibit compares insect and human architecturebyallowingvisitorstoclimbinto agiantspiderweb,viewaleafchopperant colony,watchbee-keepingdemonstrations, andcrawlinsideamodelbeehive(through August31).Inkeepingwiththistheme,on Saturday,June22kidscanmakeBuggyHats, BeeBonnets,andothercreepycrawlersto wear in the Bug Jamboree Parade down CongressStreetat11:15a.m.ThenSaturday, June 29 is Hershey Chocolate Day, with specialgiveaways,Hersheytreats,andfree child’sadmissionwitheachadultticket purchasedwhenyoubringinawrapperfrom any Hershey bag product. Open WednesdaySaturday 10-5, Friday evenings 5-8 (free admission),andSunday12-5;admissionis$4 perperson.Forrecordedinformationcall8281234.
MaineCollegeofArt’sBaxterGallery, 619 CongressStreet,Portland.OpeningJune13 are “Bloomer," a video installation by Matthew McCaslin, and an exhibit of photographsanddigitallymanipulatedimages ofnaturalelementsbyPeterCampus(both throughJuly19).AlsoopeningJune13is “Skowheganat50:TheMaineLegacy,"which featuresworksbyalumnioftheSkowhegan SchoolofPaintingandSculpturewhohave maintainedanongoinginvolvementinthe Maineartcommunity(throughJuly19).Free andopentothepublicTuesday-Sunday11-4 andThursday11-9.Formoreinformation,call 775-5152.
and-comingMaineartistswhohavenothad muchpreviouspublicexposure,including videosatDeadSpaceonAvonStreet,twodimensionalpiecesatUSM’sAreaGallery,and two-andthree-dimensionalpiecesatthe DanforthGallery(throughJune30).Opening July11Isthe“AnnualMembers’ExhibitionI,” whichfeaturesphotographyinallitsvaried forms,aswellasmetal,paper,andclay sculpture(throughJuly28).AttheChowder Sampling Contest from noon to 2 p.m. on Saturday,July20,Portland’srestaurantswill dishuptheirbesteffortsforyoutotestout andthencastyourvote($5foradultsand$3 forchildrenunder10).Thegalleryisopen115onWednesday,Friday,andSaturday;11-8on Thursday; and 12-5 on Sunday (free admission).Formoreinformation,call7756245.
Osher Map Library, Smith Center for CartographicEducation,314ForestAvenue, Portland.Jerusalem3000:ThreeMillenniaof History" examines Jerusalem’s unique position as the holy city of Judaism, Christianity,andIslamthroughimaginary, idealizedportrayalsbasedonScriptural interpretation and objective depictions derived from historical records and eyewitnessaccounts(throughOctober5). Libraryhoursare1-4:30p.m.and6-8p.m.on Wednesday, and 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on ThursdayandSaturday.Admissionisfree. Call780-4850.
Spring Point Museum, Southern Maine TechnicalCollege,FortRoad,SouthPortland. “PortlandHarbor1865-1900:MakingaLiving in Stormy Times" explores how changing technology in the shipping and fish processing industries caused Portland’s commercialfocustoshiftfromtradeand fishingtocanningandtourism(throughearly November). The museum is open 10 a.m.-4 p.m.Wednesday-Sunday;admissionis$2for adultsandfreeforchildren.Call799-6337.
Jones Museum of Glass and Ceramics, DouglasHill,Sebago,housesaninternational collectionofglass,pottery,stoneware,and porcelainfrom1200B.C.tothepresentthat includesSandwichglass,ChineseExport, Baccaratpaperweights,Majolica,American ArtGlass,WorcesterPorcelain,andmore. Thissummer’sspecialexhibitsare“Steinsand RelatedDrinkingVessels";“TheTurner’sArt: MochaandSlip-DecoratedWare";“Selections fromtheMoonArrowCollection";“FromTheir Images Shall Ye Know Them"; and “Gift Highlightsfrom1995."OnSaturday,July13— Open House and Appraisal Day—the museum willbeopenfreetoallvisitors,whomaybring uptothreeobjectsofglass,ceramics,silver, jewelry,ortextilestobeprofessionally appraisedinexchangefora$10donationto benefitthemuseumlibrary.Museumhours are Monday-Saturday 10-5 and Sunday 1-5 (throughNovember19).Admissionis$5for adults,$3forstudents,$3.75forseniorsand AAAmembers,andfreeforchildren.Call7873370.
Formoreinformaliononourcomplete lineofstoneproductsforthehomecall / 800 466-2336 or 207 772-6770 737SpringStreet,Westbrook
On the Beach
Old Orchard Beach MAINE
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
MemorabiliaCollections”(throughSeptember 1),andopeningJune18isanexhibitof twentieth century art of various media installedtocoincidewiththeUpwardBound programatBowdoin(throughJuly21).“In View of America: Photography’s Role in CreatingaNation’sIdentity”opensJune18 andexplorestherolephotographyhasplayed inshapingoursenseofwhatitistobean AmericanviaphotosofAmericanfaces,the American landscape, and the American "scene"(throughJuly14).OpeningJuly23is "LiquidAssets:19thCenturyWatercolors fromtheCollection,"andopeningJuly25is “AnAmazingBitofSleightofHand:Winslow Homer’s Watercolor Techniques" (both throughSeptember8).Thegalleriesareopen 10a.m.-5p.m.Tuesday-Saturdayand2-5p.m. onSunday(freeadmission).Call725-3275.
Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum, Hubbard Hall,BowdoinCollege,Brunswick,displays thefurclothing,snowshoes,pickaxes,knives, guns,andoneofthefivesledgesthatRobert E.PearytooktotheNorthPole,aswellasthe Eskimopotsandlamps,ivoryandsoapstone carvings,huntingweapons,clothing,andfullsizeskinkayakthatDonaldB.MacMillan encountered on his Arctic explorations. Ongoingexhibitsinclude:“S.5. Roosevelt: ModelofStrength,"anadmiraltymodelof Robert E. Peary’s Maine-built ship of exploration;“InuitArtTodayandYesterday"; a caribou display; and a computer-driven photographydisplayofhand-coloredglass lanternslidesofArcticexplorationsfrom1880 to1930.Thegalleriesareopen10a.m.-5p.m. Tuesday-Saturday and 2-5 p.m. on Sunday (freeadmission).Call725-3062.
BatesCollegeMuseumofArt,Bardwelland Russell Streets, Lewiston. Currently on display are contemporary embroidered textiles by Nancy Hemenway, who uses fabrics from around the world to create abstractions based on natural phenomena (through August 17). Museum hours: Tuesday-Saturday10-5andSunday1-5;free admission.Call786-6158.
OgunqultMuseumofAmericanArt,P.O.Box 815,ShoreRoad,Ogunquit.OpeningJuly1, “CreativeLives"isaretrospectiveexhibitof thelonganddistinguishedcareersofMaine artistsEdwardBetts,DahlovIpcar,Cabot Lyford,andWilliamThon(throughSeptember 30). The museum is open Monday-Saturday 10:30-5:00andSundaysfrom2to5p.m.; admissionis$3foradults.$2forstudentsand seniors,andfreeforchildrenunder12.Call 646-4909.
BarnGallery,P.O.Box2029,’Ogunquit.The current “Luster of Graphite" exhibition showcases pencil drawings by New England artists(throughJuly10),while“JonBrooks: Dog,Ladder,andOtherMysticalObjectsof Art”featurescontemplativeandwhimsical imageryonpaintedandotherwiseadorned wood(throughSeptember25).OpeningJuly 14, “Oceans of Oceans" brings together contemporaryandtraditionalapproachesto thesubjectbyNewEnglandartistsusingold and new media (through August 21). The gallery is open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. MondaySaturdayand2-5p.m.onSunday;admissionis free.Call646-5370.
Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
Street, Bath. Current exhibits include “Corsair,” thestoryofJ.P.Morgan’sBath-built steam yacht (through October 20), and “FriendshipinJapan:aShipmaster’sTravels in19th-CenturyJapan"(throughNovembers). OnFather'sDay(Sunday,June16)alldadsare admittedfreeofcharge,andonSaturday,June 22shipyarddemonstrationsofblacksmithing, launchingavessel,navigation,etc.begin. ThenonThursday,July4theGrandBanks fishingschooner ShermanZwickert returns piersidefortours(throughOctober15). Museum hours are 9:30-5:00 every day; admissionis$7.50foradults,$4.75for children6-17,and$21forafamilyofatleast2 adultsand2children.Fordetailscall4431316.
Farnsworth Art Museum, 19 Elm Street, Rockland.“SilenceandShadow:Twenty-Five YearsofPainting"isaretrospectiveexhibition of works from Maine and New Jersey by respectedrealistpainterLoisDodd(through July 7). “American Watercolors from the Permanent Collection" includes works by DanielRidgewayKnight,RobertSwainGifford, William Stanley Haseltine, Maurice Prendergast,CharlesWoodbury,GeorgeLuks, JohnMarin,andMichaelLoew(throughJuly 21).“ReubenTam:LastLooksatMaine"isan exhibit of acrylic paintings on paper completed1977-1980justpriortotheartist’s permanentmovetoHawaii(throughJuly28).
Opening July 14, “William Kienbusch: Paintings 1946-1979" is a retrospective exhibitionofabstractworksbythislong-time summerresidentofCranberryIsle(through September8).AlsoonSunday,July14isthe FarnsworthCommunityFestivalfrom1to5 p.m.,featuringfreeadmissiontothemuseum andHomesteadwithaccompanyingfamilyartrelatedactivitiesonthegrounds,puppet shows, musical presentations, and a mid¬ afternoonbandconcertunderthetent.The museumisopen10-5Tuesday-Saturdayand15onSunday;admissionis$5foradults,$4for seniors,and$3forchildrenages8-18.For furtherinformation,call596-6457.
Penobscot Marine Museum, P.O.Box498, ChurchStreet,Searsport.Currentexhibits include“GoodCommonSchools:Educationin EarlyMaine,1700-1900"(throughJuly1); “HullsandHulks:TheMarineArtofJohn Noble" (through July 25); and “Sails on Canvas:TheMaritimeNeedlepointofWilliam Whorf"(throughOctober15).“Preservinga MaritimeHeritage:TheFirst60Yearsofthe PenobscotMarineMuseum"isanexhibition andpublicdemonstrationofcollectionscare andartconservation(throughOctober15). Opening July 1 is “From Revolution to Statehood:MaineTowns1783-1820"(through October15).OnThursday,July18therewill beseachanteysintheyardfromnoonto1:30 p.m.incelebrationofCoastalArtsWeek. Museum hours (through October 15) are Monday-Saturday 10-5 and Sunday 12-5; admissionis$5foradults,$3.50forseniors, $1.50forchildren7-15,andfreeforchildren6 andunder.Call548-2529.
HISTORIC HOMES
Wadsworth-Longfellow House,487Congress Street,Portland,childhoodhomeofthepoet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, is open for guided tours on the half hour TuesdaySunday,10a.m.-4p.m.(throughOctober31).
Thehousecontainsoriginalfittingsand furnishingsthatillustratefamilylifefromthe days of the American Revolution to the Victorianera.Admissionis$4foradultsand $1forchildrenandincludesaguidedtourof thehouse,anorientationfilmonLongfellow’s career,andentrancetotheexhibitionsatthe MaineHistoryGallerynextdoor.Forfurther information,call879-0427.
Victoria Mansion, 109 Danforth Street, Portland. The Morse-Libby House, built between1858and1860andinternationally renownedforitsmagnificentinteriorsand originalfurnishingsandfittings,isopentothe public10a.m.-4p.m.Tuesday-Saturdayand15p.m.onSunday,withguidedtoursstarting at quarter of and quarter past the hour (throughOctober31;admissionis$4for adults,$3.50forseniors,$2forstudents6-17, andfreeforchildrenunder6.)Bringyour favoritedolltotheirVictoriandollteaparties at11a.m.,1p.m.,and3p.m.onFriday,June 28 and Saturday, June 29 (reservations required;costis$15).Thencelebrate“New OrleansNight"from6:30pm.to10p.m.on Saturday,June29outonthelawnwithCreole food,beer,wine,andjazz.Call772-4841for reservations.
Neal Dow Memorial, 714CongressStreet, Portland,wasthelifelonghomeofGeneral NealDow,two-timemayorofPortlandandan activeProhibitionist,abolitionist,and advocate of prison reform and women’s rights.Builtin1829,thelateFederal-style mansion features furnishings of varied periodsoriginaltothehouse,portraitsand otherfinepaintings,specially-designed ornamental ironwork, and memorabilia of Dow’smilitaryandpoliticalcareers.Now administeredbytheMaineWoman’sChristian Temperance Union, the house is open Monday-Friday,11a.m.-4p.m.forguidedtours withnoadmissioncharge.Call773-7773.
TateHouse, 1270WestbrookStreet,Portland. StartingJune15,TateHousewillbeopento thepublicTuesday-Saturday,10a.m.-4p.m., and1-4p.m.onSundaythroughSeptember15 (openFriday-SundaythroughOctober27). Theelegant1755clapboardhousewasthe residenceofCaptainGeorgeTate,asenior mastagentfortheBritishRoyalNavy,and featuresanunusualclerestoryinthegambrel roof and an 18th-century herb garden overlookingtheStroudwaterRiver.FromJune through September a Tea and Garden Tour willbeofferedeachWednesday;architecture tourswillbeofferedeachSaturdayat1p.m.,2 p.m.,and3p.m.;andself-guidedwalkingtours ofhistoricStroudwaterwillbeofferedon Tuesdaysat10:30a.m.Admissionis$4for adultsand$1forchildrenunder12.Call7749781foradditionalinformation.
FrancesW.PeabodyResearchLibrary, 165 State Street, Portland, was started by Landmarks Advisory Service, a volunteer groupthatofferstechnicaladviceonhistoric buildings, it houses the most extensive collectionofpreservationbooks,periodicals, andfilesnorthofBoston.Thelibraryisopen Monday-Fridayfrom10a.m.to4p.m.andis usually staffed on Monday mornings and Thursdayafternoons.Formoreinformation, callGreaterPortlandLandmarksat774-5561. Baxter Museum,67SouthStreet,Gorham,is
NOWin its 16th year, theLeighton Calleryhas hernwritten up as the verybestinMaine.Featuring30leading contemporary’artists.?\lsoalargesculpture gardenandartist-paintedfurniture.
Parker Point Hoad Blue1lill,Maine04614•(207)374-5001
■ SUMMERGUIDE ■
housed in the 1831 birthplace of James PhinneyBaxter,mayorofPortland,governor ofMaine,andphilanthropistextraordinaire. OpenTuesdaysandThursdaysfrom10a.m.to 2p.m.inJulyandAugust(orbyappointment), themuseumdisplaysBaxterfamilyitemsand memorabilia,articlesandartifactsrelatingto Gorhamhistory,CivilWarartifacts,and portraits and paintings. Donations are accepted.Call839-5031.
MarrettHouse,Route25,Standish,isalate Georgianhouse(1789)thatreflectsthrough itsarchitecture,furnishings,andfamily heirloomstheevolutionoftastesandpatterns oflivingoverthe150yearsitremainedinthe Marrett family. The grounds include an extensiveherbandperennialgarden.House tours are given on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays between 12 and 5 p.m.(throughSeptember1);admissionis$4 foradults,$3.50forseniors,and$2for children.Call642-3032formoreinformation.
PejcpscotMuseum, 159ParkRow,Brunswick, featureschangingexhibitsonlocalhistory drawn from a collection of about 50,000 artifactsandover20,000localphotographs. ThemuseumisopenMonday-Friday,9a.m.4:30p.m.,and1-4p.m.onSaturday(free admission).Acombinedvisittoallthree museums costs $5 for adults and $2 for children.Call729-6606formoreinformation.
Skolfleld-Whittlcr House, 161 Park Row, Brunswick,isa17-roomtimecapsulethat contains intact Victorian furnishings, decorations,andfixtures,aswellasnumerous itemsfromseacaptainAlfredSkolfield’s voyages to Europe and Asia and from the twentyyearshespentlivinginEngland.The houseisopenTuesday-Friday,10a.m.-3p.m., and 1-4 p.m. on Saturday (through Sep¬ tember).Admissionis$3foradultsand$2for children.
Joshua L. Chamberlain Museum,226Maine Street,islocatedintheCivilWarhero’s partiallyrestored1820shome,whichwas expanded vertically in 1871 when Cham¬ berlainraisedtheexistingCapeCodeleven feetoffthegroundandinsertedanewground floorbeneathit.Fiveroomscontainexhibits onChamberlain’slongandvariedcareerasa collegeprofessor,asoldier,afour-termMaine governor,andpresidentofBowdoinCollege. The museum is open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. (through September), and ad¬ missionis$3foradultsand$1forchildren.
Forafreecolorbrochurecontact Atlantic Blanket Company
SwansIsland,Maine04685
^Telephone:207.526.-1-192Fax:207-526
DiscoverYourMaritimePast
Comeexploreourunique19th-centuryseafaringvillage tV Experience lifewhentallshipssailedtheglobe tV TakeintheseaairofPenobscotBay tF Surroundyourselfwithartandartifactsbroughtbackfromforeignportsand craftedbysailorsatsea7VSpecialexhibitionsandhands-onactivitiesfor children tV Maritimeandgenealogicalresearchlibrary7VMuseumStore 1936-7996CelebratingSixtyYearsasMaine'sOldestMaritimeMiiseum^>X^~~.
Taylor-Barry House, 24 Summer Street, Kennebunk. This 1803 sea captain’s home opensfortheseasononJune18andfeatures anoriginalstenciledhallway,fourfurnished periodrooms,anda20th-centuryartist’s studio.HoursareTuesday-Friday,1-4p.m. (throughAugust30);admissionis$3for adultsandfreeforchildren.Call985-4802.
Nickels-Sortwell House, Main Street and FederalStreet,Route1,Wiscasset.This elegantFederal-stylemansion,builtin1807by ship owner and trader William Nickels, featuresColonialRevivalfurnishingsanda three-storyellipticalstairwaytoppedwitha skylight.Housetoursareofferedeveryhour onthehourWednesday-Sundayfrom12to4 p.m.(throughmid-October),andadmissionis $4.Formoreinformationcall882-6218.
Sarah Ome Jewett House,5PortlandStreet, South Berwick. Maine writer Sarah Orne Jewettspentmostofherlifeinthisstately Georgianresidenceownedbyherfamilysince 1819 and furnished with an eclectic combinationof18th-centuryantiquesand wallpapersandmodernfurnitureinfluenced bytheArtsandCraftsmovement.Thehouse isopentothepublicfrom12to5p.m.on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays;admissionis$4foradults,$3.50for seniors,and$2forchildren.Call(603)4363205.
MISCELLANY
Portland Parks & Recreation, 17 Arbor Street,Portland,ispleasedtoannouncethat BaxterBoulevardwillbeclosedtotrafficon Father’sDay(Sunday,June16)from11a.m.to 4p.m.tomakewayforBackCoveFamilyDay anditsaccompanyinglivemusic,carnival games,hayrides,trolleyrides,fireman’s foam,artsandcrafts,kite-flying,face-painting, rollerbladedemonstrations,refreshments, aerobics and dance demonstrations, and cardboardcanoeraceandinnertuberacein BackCove.Admissionisfree,butsomegames mayhavefees;raindateisSunday,June23. Call874-8793forfurtherinformation.
MaineArts,582CongressStreet,Portland, haslaunchedamassivearrayoffreeeventsto livenupCongressSquarethissummer.The Tuesdaynoontimeconcertseriesfeatures Toboggan (acoustic trio) on June 11, Winterwood(acousticduo)onJune18,The Psaltery(AcadianduoLillanneLabbeandDon HinkleyonJune25.theCSChoristerssinging BroadwaytunesonJuly2,ScottVaillancourt andSamWoodhead(classicalbrassduo)on July9,AlHawkes(countrymusic)onJuly16, andfolksinger/songwriterAnniClarkonJuly 23.OnThursdaynightsat8p.m.,therewillbe concertsbyThePinetones(acousticswing) onJune13,PactoAndino(AndeanMusic)on June27,Shutdown66(surfrock)onJuly4, ZuluLeprechauns(eclecticrock)onJuly11, CarlDimowandJimLeyden(jazz)onJuly18, andKingMemphis(rockabilly)onJuly25.The Sundaycommunityconcertseriesat2p.m. will include performances by The Music Makers (swing jazz) on June 23 and the Community Orchestra of the Portland Symphony (classical) on July 21. Other ongoing events include “Drawing in the Square"hands-onworkshopswithSpiralArts onWednesdaysat9:30a.m.(July10-August
jk Camp Runoia
Residentialgirls’campoffering jiMS. excellent waterfront activities, riding, land sports, trips and lifelongskills.Qualitystaffwith1-3 staff-camper ratio. Emphasis on decision making,fosteringself-esteemandrespectfor others.Three,four,andseven-weeksessions forages7-17;$1,750-$3,700all-inclusivetuition for1996.Pleasecallorwriteforinformation and/orvisit.
The Cobb Family-directing Mainecampssince1890. Camp Runoia RR 1 Box 775 (PM) Belgrade Lakes, ME 04918 Tel.(207)495-2228
14),BeanoonWednesdaysat1p.m.(June19August 24), “Wednesday Night at the Movies”—featuringMaine-madefilmshosted byDirigoProductions—at8p.m.(June26, July 24, and August 28), Shotokan karate workshops with Nelson Vaughn at noon on Thursdays (through June 27), “Big Talk" currentaffairsdiscussionssimulcastliveon WMPGat7p.m.onThursdays(JulyIl-August 29),andthe“PhatPhriday!"seriesofyouth talent shows, music, drama, and dance performancesat7p.m.onFridays(June21August30).Therewillalsobeaswingdance at 7 p.m. on Saturday, July 6 with the MaineiacsSwingDanceSocietyandasquare dancewithSkipBrownat7p.m.onSaturday. July20.AndaspartoftheFestivalofDance, RamIslandDancewillgiveamoderndance performanceat7p.m.onSaturday,July13.On Saturday,June15from1to5p.m.graffiti guerrillaswillrevealtheirworkat“Urban ArtistDay,"andonSaturday,June29at11 a.m.getreadyfor“PretaPortland,"afunky fashionfestival.Thencelebratethe3rdofJuly ataCountryJamboreefeaturingdancing, BBQ,andmusicwithFlywheelandCheyenne onWednesday,July3from5to10p.m.For moreinformation,call772-9012.
Cumberland County Civic Center, 1 Civic CenterSquare,Portland.ThenewPortland MountainCatsbasketballteamtakesthecourt againstNewHampshireonMonday,June10; NewJerseyonMonday,June17;LongIsland on Wednesday, June 19; Connecticut on Monday, June 24; and Long Island on Wednesday,June26.Allhomegamestip-offat 7;30p.m.,andgeneraladmissionis$6for adults and $3 for children and seniors; reservedseatsare$7/$4.Forticketscall7753458.
University of Southern Maine Southworth Planetarium,96FalmouthStreet,Portland. Take a trip to the stars without leaving Portland!EveryFridayandSaturdaynight there’sanAstronomyShowat7p.m.,followed byaLaserLightConcertat8:30p.m.;on Saturdayafternoonsthere’saFamilyAstro Showat3p.m.;andonSundayafternoons there'saFamilyAstroShowat3p.m.Tickets fortheeveningandSundayperformancesare $4foradultsand$3forchildrenandstudents; ticketsfortheSaturdaymatineesare$3for everyone.Forshowtitlescall780-4249.
ComedyConnections,6CustomHouseWharf onCommercialStreet,Portland,mightbea goodplacetotestout Reader'sDigest ‘s assertionthat“LaughterIstheBestMedicine" forwhateverailsyou.Everyweekendat8:30 p.m.onThursdayandSunday,at9p.m.on Friday,andat8p.m.and10p.m.onSaturday, nationalcomicheadlinersfromalloverthe country such as Anthony Clark, Jonathan Katz,DaveFitzgerald,MariaFalzone,Eddie Brill,EdRegine,MikeMcDonald,MikeDonvan, and Bob Sommerby (who once roomed with Al Gore and Tommy Lee Jones) strut their stuffonstage.Call774-5554fortickets.
Maine Windjammer Association, P.O. Box 1144,BlueHill,isproudtoannouncethaton June28GovernorAngusKingwillofficially proclaim the month of July “Maine Windjammer Month" at the Governor’s Cup WindjammerRegatta,duringwhichgovernors ortheirrepresentativesfromalloverthe Northeastwillcompeteina“RaceBetween
T^HELDOn
SHELDON SLATE is a family owned businesswithfourgenerationsofex¬ perience. We mine and manufacture our own slate products from our own quarries.Therangeofourcolorswill compliment any kitchen or bath. Our slateisheatresistant,non-porousand non-fading. It has a polished/honed finishandisverylowmaintenance.Let ushelpyoudesignandbuildacustom sink, countertop or vanity. Custom inquiries are handled through the Monson,Mainedivision.
theStates"fromIsleborotoNorthHaven. Relatedactivitiesincludethe20thannual GreatSchoonerRaceonJuly5fromNorth HaventotheRocklandBreakwater,whichwill be followed by a parade of sail through Rockland’sinnerharbor;theSchoonerDays FestivalinRocklandJuly5-7,withon-shore activitiessuchaslivemusic,crafts,food, marineexhibits,andfireworksatRockland's Harbor Park; Windjammer Open Houses on July7,featuringafternoondocksidetoursof alltenwindjammersintheirhomeportsof Camden and Rockland; and a Schooner Gam mid-summergatheringofthefleetforfunand festivitiesontheeveningofJuly15ata location TBA based on weather. For more informationabouttheseevents,call(800)807W1ND.
MooseMalnea‘96celebratesmoose-watching seasoninGreenvilleandculminatesSaturday, June 15 in MooseMainea Family Fun Day, featuringMooseanticsforkids,aMooseterpiececraftfair,theMooseCapadeparade, theMooseheadFly-CastingChampionships, andaMooseTalesforumofmoose-calling, story-telling,moosefactsandlore,aslide show, and moose d’oeuvres. Ongoing ac¬ tivities include moose sightings, moose educational exhibits and programs, moose safaris,scenicchairliftrides,andMoosehead Lakecruises.Fordetails,youcanreachthe Moosehead Lake Region Chamber of Com¬ merceat695-2702.
Onesummermorningabout250yearsago,a travelerontheKing’sHighwaysawagolden sparkintheliftingmistontheMainesideof thePiscataquaRiver.Hebroughthishorseto canterandscannedthewater.Suddenly,a gildedbargeemergedfromthefog,catching thelowsunrisingfromtheeast.Twelve slavesrowedthebarge.Ondeck,awhiteman shadedhiseyeswithhishand,searchingthe waterswhilethebargepushedtowardthesea andwasgone.TheKing’sHighwaywasnearly acenturyoldwhenSirWilliamPepperell glided along the Piscataqua in his barge powered by 12 African-American oarsmen. Naturally,Maine’ssectionoftheKing’s Highwayhasevolvedsinceitwasconceived In1653.Theserpentinepathitoncetook aroundfallentreeshasbeenstraightenedin theensuingyears,andthedeep,mudfilled rutshavebeenpolishedwithasphalt.“With the coming of the automobile, man could travel beyond what he knew," says Peter
The highway has always been an antiques haven.Muchcomestomarketfromthevast NewEnglandhinterland,fromoldfarmhouses andseacaptains’homes.Theselistingswill help you root out some of these unique antiquesshopsaswellasdiscoverfactory outlets, legends, scenic spots, natural landmarks,obscurecurses,andmuchmore.
KiUeiry
Today,modernsubmarinesbuiltatKittery's Portsmouth Naval Shipyard have replaced WilliamPepperell’sgoldenbargeandJohn PaulJones'sship Ranger, whichwasbuilt here.Howthingshavechanged.Butthemost dramaticrecentchangesinKittery’sland¬ scapehaveoccurredalongtheKing'sHighway over the last decade. “Many of the old summercottagesandcabinsthatlinedthe road are gone," remarks Marcia Beverly, speakingofRoute1inKittery.“Afewyears ago,thelastoftheold-fashionedgasstations wasrippedout.”Farmlandandhomeshave alsoyieldedtodevelopmentalongthispartof theKing’sHighway.
Inspiteofthis,residentsdon’tcomplaintoo much about the emergence of Kittery’s “miraclemile."Ithasbecomeanoutletcenter rivaling the regional old-timers, North Conway,NewHampshire,andFreeport.Since thefirstmallmovedinjusttenyearsago, elevenothershavefollowed.Inall,thereare 115outletstoresinKittery.Withinthemalls, youwillfindstoreslikeBrooksBrothers,Liz Claiborne,LennoxChina,Timberland,Guess, Levis,Converse,RalphLauren,Bass,Dexter Shoe, and over 100 more shops. New Englanderscomebythebusloads,pulledby thegeneticurgetobuygoodthingscheaply. Ifyoudon'tplantoventureasfarasL.L.Bean inFreeport,checkouttheKitteryTrading Post.Forover50years,theTradingPosthas soldoutdoorsportinggoods.Youwillfind guns,archeryequipment,fishinggear,canoes, and snowshoes, along with men’s and women'sclothing,jewelry,Maine-madegifts, anddogtrainingequipment.Theyalsosell scentstoattractjustaboutanygameyou wanttoshoot.Justsprinklealittleinyour frontyardandenjoythehuntwithoutleaving thebreakfasttable.
What’stheoldestcharteredcityinAmerica?If youansweredNewYork,you’rehalfright. York,Maine,wascharteredin1641. TheperfectplaceforlunchistheGoldenrod ontheroadtoYorkBeach(Route1A),where youcansipalimerickeyinafrostedglassina metal holder while you watch taffy being pulledinthewindowanddevourfoodyou
VisitaHistoricRe-createdEarlyNewEnglandVillage.RideaNarrow GaugeSteamTraintoanExceptionalAntiqueAutomobileDisplay. Route 27 Boothbay, Maine 04537 (207) 633-4727
justcan’tfixathome.Thetaffyisfreshand oddlyhypnoticasitstretchesfromsideto side,andtheatmosphereofdeepvarnishand fireplacerecallsMainesummersofold.Just uptheway,attheYorkWildAnimalKingdom, see a rare white tiger and other fellow creaturesintheparkandthentravelthis coastalroadaspell.Thegreyfieldstone churchesalongthisroadlookouttothesea andbearaneerieresemblancetotheancient, windsweptoutpostsonremotepartsofthe BritishIsles.
Ogunnqaail
The only foot-drawbridge in the United StatesisinOgunquit.ItspansPerkinsCove andthenfollowstheMarginalway.Marginal Wayhasnopeerasanoceanicwalkway.Ithas benchesatstrategicspotswithwildrosesand exotic,importedhardwoodsgrowinginthe rockycragsalongthewalk.Ogunquitmeans “Beautifulplacebythesea”inAlgonquin,but inthiscaseitisanunderstatement.
BarnacleBilly’sistheshellfishlovers’ paradisehere,withlovelyviewsofthetuna andlobster-fishingfleetsandthehappysound ofraucousshuckingaslobstercarcassesand clams head out to the dumpsterunder the stars.
BackonRoute1,checkouttheOgunquit Playhouse.It’sbeentheresince1933andhas drawnmanyofthegreatestnamesinmovies andtheatertoperform,fromBetteDavis(who usedtoworksummershereasawaitress)to ShirleyBooth.Itstillputsonfiveshowsa summer, and the immaculately manicured groundsandtopiaryshrubsareworthalook evenifyoucan’tstayfortheshow.
Baby,ifit’scampyouwant,trydinnerat Nacho Mama’s, a dream-colored Mexican disco hidden high on a hill tothe left, somewhere between reality and Mt. Agamenticus.It’sthatthrobbingsoundpeople have been wondering about, a restaurant novelist Martin Amis might as well have launched.Greatchips.ThengivetheLeavitt Movie Theater a go. This theater is like somethingoutofwartimeBritain,complete withitsfoldingchairs.There’savisceral feelingofsummercolonyhere.
slopetothefirstintersectionandtakearight onthatroad.Driveafewhundredfeetdown thatandyou'llseethemarkerobscuredby overgrowth,butit’sthere.It’sshapedroughly like a diamond," Jeff says. We are now enteringtheGoldCoastofantiquestoresand fleamarketsthathavetransformedtheWells toKennebunkstretchofRoute1.Thebest stopsareMacDougall-GionetAntiquesand Associates,heavyinSalem,Boston,andNew YorkperiodfurnitureaswellasChinese exportporcelain,andJorgensen’s,whichhas ahuge,museum-likeinventoryoftop-end Federal furniture. There’s a wonderful Colonialgardenbehindtheoldfarmhouse whereyoucanrelaxinwhatseemsadifferent world.IncentralWells,enjoyapileof homemade doughnuts at Congdon’s. These havebeenfamousfordecadesandaretruly homemade.Furtheruptheline,booklovers willloveastopatDouglasHardingRare Books,whichhasaverydeepcollectionand islocatedintheoldWellstrainstation.Your nextstopinWellsinvolvesarightturnonto LaudholmFarmRoad.Ifyouwanttoseean incrediblypreservedoceanfrontfarmhouse, thisisanexperiencethatcannotbeequalled. LaudholmFarmisnowhometoa1,600-acre estuarialresearchreserve.Thereareseven milesoftrailsforhiking,andalargedeerherd grazesfreelyinthefieldsaboutthesanctuary.Thefarmwasoneofthefirstsettlements inWells,andabuildingfrom1717housesa visitor’scenterandcurrentexhibitscon¬ cerning the ecological importance of estuaries.Lindholm’sgroundsareopenuntil 5everyday,visitor’scenterfrom10-4,witha $5parkingfee.
I3i(ilJeJord
It’samystery. You’vebeendrivingpastitforyears.And anyonewhocontinuestowearblinderswhile drivingthroughBiddeford,trainingtheireyes solelyonpointsnorth,willsurelymissthis RouteIenigma—theancienthouseonRoute1 thatcallsitselfClubVoltiguer.Thedownstairs windowsareblackened,andabovethefront doorafadedcoatofarmsrests.Themotto underneathreads: EtPourquoiPas?Fondeen 1926. Wedon’tknowmuchaboutit,except thatthosecrossedthingsinsidethecoatof armsarenottunafinsorlacrossesticks.They aresnowshoes,andsnowshoeingistheClub’s declaredpurpose.Curiously,it’sopenyearround:“Fordancing,"theysay,andwemust taketheVoltiguers'wordandleavetherestto imagination.Asearlyas1759,therewasamill onFactoryIsland.Whenitwentbankruptin 1829,YorkManufacturingacquiredthetextile mill and bulked it up to a 1,000-worker operationby1839.“Itwasoriginallymanned bylocalfarmgirls,"aconvivialvolunteerat theDyerLibrarytellsus.“Bythesecondhalf ofthe19thcentury,theworkerswere,forthe mostpart,ofFrench-Canadian,Irish,Scots,or Greek descent. By 1900, men outnumbered women" CharlesDickensevenvisitedthesemillsin thelate19thcenturyand,inanarticleinthe Londonpress,praisedtheirinnovativedesign as a more humane model for Britain to consider(helikedthewindowsandnatural lighting),thoughthedesultoryfacilitieswere hardlyClubMed.
ThelastlogdriveontheSacoRiverwentto themillsonSpringIslandin1943.In1798, Seth Spring built a three-story Federal mansionontheisland,whichinturnbecame Spring’sTavern,apopularrest-stopalongthe King’sHighway.Lafayettestoppedhereatthis brightyellow,green-shutteredmansionto waltzwiththegentryonhistourthrough Maine in 1825. Then the sawmills came, turningSpringIslandintoalumberkingdom. A family named Deering started a lumber companyatSpring’smansionbackin1866, andtodayDeeringLumberstillthrivesinthe samespot,eventhoughthedaysofthegreat logdrivesarelonggone.
Inthe1670s,agroupofdrunkensailorscame upon a squaw with her papoose who were travelingpeacefullydowntheSacoRiverina canoe.Thesailorshadheardthatapapoose floated when thrown into the water and wantedtotesttheassumption.Sotheyplaced bets,upsetthecanoe,andthepapoosesank. The papoose was the child of Squanto, SagamoreoftheSacotribe.Thechiefwasso grief-strickenthathesethispeopleagainst settlersfromSacotoPortland.Thecampaign forvengeancewassobrutalandvigorousthat itdenudedtheareaofitswhitepopulation untilpeacewasmadeintheearly1700s.
HeadingnorthtoSacojustpasttheair¬ conditioning-chilledDairyJoy,looktotheleft andseeaforgettablelate-Federalstructure most of whose lawn has been engulfed by Route1.Itistheeasilyoverlookedhomeof GovernorJohnFairfield,wholedthestate from1838-41.Itsbricksarepaintedyellow,the roofishipped,andithasfourlargechimneys. Acongressmaninhisearlyyears,Fairfield alsoservedasaU.S.senatorfrom1842-49, withapoliticalcareersoremarkablethat manyconsideredhimPresidentialtimber.His sudden death during an operation was the firstofmanystepsthatsentthehouseinto obscurity.
SriarLoroiLiigh
MassacrePond,MassacreRoad Prout’sNeckispeacefulagain,butthe bloodynamesofplaceswithinthecommunity recallwithchillingimmediacythememoryof itsearlyyears.Enragedbythedeathof SagamoreSquanto’schildandotheratrocities whichincludedthebeheadingofanIndian boyfortryingonasettler’stri-comerhat,the Sacotribeattackedthisquietsettlementin the 1680s, murdering 18 men. women, and children.Onlyonewhitesettlersurvivedthe wrathofSquanto’speoplebyescapinginto themarshes-perhapshidinginthetallmarsh grass where Route 1 now runs. H -Compiled by Peter Davenport <? Colin Sargent
Brunswick
This carefully restored and well maintained Greek Revival home in the historic district featuressixfireplaces,woodfloors,Indian shutters, period moulding, an up-to-date kitchen, and even a small in-law apartment which can easily be adapted to one family use. $325,000.
South Harps well
The focus of this 1857 vintage Cape is the view over the small pond to Ports 1 (arbor and beyond. With 9 rooms and 2 baths, beautifully decorated and with all antique features carefully preserved, this exceptional home will exceed all expectations. $349,000.
Harpswell
A world unto itself! 7 acres with 750' of deepwater frontage with dock, mooring and southerly views past islands to Casco Bay surround the spacious 7 room home with its 2storystonefireplace,built-inbookcases and window seats, 2 woodstove hook-ups &. security system. Now $595,000.
Georgetown
Incomparable open ocean views! 2 private beaches! A 1 year old 2,500 sq. ft. contemporary home featuring a living room with fireplace and cathedral ceiling, 3 bedrooms, 2 1/’baths,deckson3sides,5+ acres of land, and those views! $659,000.
BARBOUR & ASSOCIATES REAL ESTATE
Brunswick
Truly a “Gentleman’s Farm”, this property includes a spacious and beautifully decorated 4 bedroom home, a magnificent indoor pool (&hottub),a6stallbarnforhorsesanil almost1Iacresoflandallwithinbike-riding distance of town! $395,000.
Harpswell
2.68 acres of elevated land with 420' deepwater frontage provides safety from storms, long southerly views to open ocean andacloselookatthecoastalsailorsand lobstermen headed for the protected waters of Quahog Bay. Priced at $3 10,000.
Morton Real Estate 298MaineStreet Brunswick, ME 04101-3314 (207) 729-1863
()XX \ a gorgeous piece of Maine! 22 wooded
1.600 feel ।>f ITe-hwaler frontage and 3 cottage-,. $1,200,000.
THE JAMES P. WHITE HOUSE Thissophisticated GreekRevivalguards theentrancetoour HistoricDistrict. Arealclassic. $371,000
Xi hvapproachedthebeach,ayearlingdeernoticedus,dashedaway,andcrashedintothesurf,swimming200yardsofftoarockypeninsula,wherehe climbedbackonland,shookoffthewater,anddeparted.Thereareabout75ontheisland.
SeastmMcloidam Cottag
OnPeaksIsland,ViewsofGreatDiamondIsland,$69,900
StoryByColinSargent
InthisDreamIslandsissue,it wouldhardlybeappropriateif wedidn’tbringyououttoan islandretreat.Thishouse,list¬ ed by Ralph Ashmore Realty, CommercialStreet,Portland,isac¬ tuallywithinPortland’scitylimits becauseit’sonPeaksIsland(win¬ terpop.900-1,000)andfeatures modestyear-roundwaterviews. Afterarrivingbyferry,turnlefton Island Avenue and walk about a thirdofamile.Here,ontheforgot¬ tennorthwestsideofPeaks,you canseetheshaggygreenheadsof
Gasheat,afairlyup-to-datekit¬ chen,andnewthermopaneglassin all but three windows are some creditable improvements beyond thenewporch,thoughthehouse stillyearnsforanewseptictank, whichwillcostbetween$8,500and $9,000installed,aswellasinsula¬ tionandamoisturebarrierbehind thelatticetostopthewindfrom freezingthepipesifyouconsider livinghereduringthatdreaded fourthseasonandattempttoscare theyear-rounddeerpopulationby
InN.E.(800)625'6446 or(207)224'7497 elsewhere.
Orwrite:
Moose Creek Log Homes Box204, Turner,ME04282 Fax(207)224'7376
sputteringaroundtheislandin youruninspected‘one-lunger’car. From two of the four secondfloor bedrooms (there are no bathsupstairsbuttwofullbaths downstairs),thereareviewsof notonlydowntownPortlandand thesurroundingislandsandother lovelycottagesaroundyou,but also the old brick elementary schoolnextdoor,stillinuse. Viaapublicaccessroadit’sjust athree-minutewalkacrossthe streettoasandybeach,perfect formooring.Thisisacitybeach— you’llfindoldradiatorsaswellas bluemusselshellsanddiscarded ironsinks—butit’sbreathtaking allthesame,andrichwithsilence. It’sthisforgotten-civilizationas¬ pectofPeaksthatcarriesyou away—throughthelooking-glass you’ve passed through, beyond thelanding,andintothe19thcen¬ tury. ■
each with its own updated tile bath. Open decks as well as enclosed porch. A twobay garage with a guest apartment. This is a "must see" property. Price: $1,250,000.
. UarMitie ■ Ua/tnn S/hc
A15YGONEEDA...
Darkliarbor/Islesboro.AsimpleTay:lifeforover200 years.Asummerhavenolchoicelorthoseabletotravel anythereintheworldlormorethan100years.Threemilesof someoftheworld'sfinestsailinggroundsawayfromthehustle andbustleoftheMainecoast.Asummerestate,withagraceful porchfullofwicker,overlookingsailboatsgatheringintheBay. Anelegant.Victorianwelcomingtravellersfortwounforgettable months. Woods that, haven’t been touched in several generations.Twogeneralstoreswheretheshopkeepersknow nearlyeveryoneandis-rviceisctwentialTherestaurant,with linelinenandEuropeandelights,asaneveningswialcenter. IlhsisIhel^Osandourcurrent,propertyinventorywillallow youIobethebaronolyourownoceanfrontestateorthe owner ol an historic island home. But when you come, be preparedforacommunitythathasseenveryfewchangesover theyears.Ohyes.theIslanddoesallowmotorcarsnow.but lorthemostpartthecommunityololdisoneofIlielastones.
Ifvonhaveaserious interestinIslesboro, we would be most happy to give you a professionaltourof Islandrealestate.
ROB WILLIAMS
REAL ESTATE BROKERS
Specializing in Unique Coastal Harpswell Properties Bailcv Island, Maine 04003
CoastalHarpswell
Situated on 8.8 private wooded acres with 266 feet protected deepwater frontage. This 4BR, 3 i bath architect designed contemp. home features a southerly-exposed glass-enclosed indoor heated lap-pool, spacious kitchen/family-room, forma! dining-room, living room w/ fireplace. Many amenities and design upgrades, in excellent condition. $495,000
Orr’sIsland
This 4BR, 2 bath contemp. home enjoys 232feetofspectacular open ocean frontage. Amenities include 2 fireplaces, hard wood floors,cathedralceilings, oilheat,2cargarage,full walk out basement. A jov to show. $417,000
Dunn Island in Jonesport. 86 forested acres, sandy beaches, 1.6 miles of bold coastlinem seasonal white cedar cabin, deeded mainland access,andspectacularviewsofnearbyRoque Island.Offeredat$485,000byowner.
3701CentervilleRoad,Greenville,DE19807
Formoreinformation,call(302)888-2544
LetMeIntroduceYou
tothis9acreisland on Sebago Lake withover5000ft. ofprivateshore frontage,dividable inthreelotsfor family compound. Nestledinthetrees isarusticlogstyle home with two bedrooms and a two bedroom guest cottage. The livingroomboastsastonefireplacewithcathedral ceilings.Alarge beachareaallows you to moor your boatorseaplane andenjoythe panoramic views of the White Mountan Range. $395,000
Archil eel nr al Ant i q ues columns mantles stained glass
A au 11ca 1 I\nlit]ues 1elescopcs port holes ships models ships bells
Oriental rugs
PainteddressingscreenandQueen i\nneleaTable
Open everyday, 10 am - 6 pm
Our shop is a museum filled with treasures from around the world ... please stop in?
Cuartlen
MahoganySheratonFront,c.1810
Adventures of Ma-te-guess OneNight atSea
A Penobscot Indian Legend
TranslatedBy MollySpottedElk
Though linguist Frank Siebert believes that translated stories of the Penobscots should be published only in "scholarly publications," Molly felt that the best way to keep the Penobscot culture alive was to share it with everyone. She translated the following legend, “Adventures of Ma-te-guess-One Night at Sea" in the 1930s.
ongbeforetherainysea¬ sonhadbegun,Rabbithad preparedtogotothecoast togathersomesweetgrass forhisgrandmother,but hedidnottellherwhenhewould go.Hekeptdelayinguntilshelost patiencewithhim,thenhefinally gotintohiscanoeandpushedoff downtherivertowardthesea. Hehadnotpaddledfarwhenhe remembered that he had not packed any food with him nor broughtanythingforshelteronhis trip.Butitdidnotmattersomuch
as he was resourceful - so he thoughtofhimself.Hewouldsure¬ lyfindsomethingtoeatandaplace tosleep.
When he awoke in the morning he was hungry, but there was nothinginsightbuttheblackish ground under his canoe. He lookedbeyondtheisland,butsaw onlytheseaandthefarmorning horizon. He wondered when he wouldeverseelandagain,buthe did not have much time to con¬ templatethis,fortheislandsud¬ denly trembled and rocked so wildlythathehastilypushedout fromitandpaddledofftoasafe distance.
When he looked back to see what had happened, something hadreallyhappened:theisland hadcompletelydisappeared.But initsplacetherewasaviolent eruptionofwaterwhichspouted highintotheairforsometime. When the surge subsided, the islandemergedagainasifbymag¬ ic.Themoreitarosefromthe water,themorefrightenedRabbit became.Thentheislandcameout ofthewateraltogether.Rabbit couldnotbelievehiseyes.Itwasa whale!Hislittlehearthammered againsthisribswhenherealized thathehadsleptallnightonthis greatone’sback.
Suddenly Rabbit found much strengthandhurriedly!paddled back toward the distance from which he had come the day be¬ fore.
We do appraisals fo; HSI A I ES. 1 AIR MARKET REPLY EMIAT VAI.l ES. REPl.At EM ENT VAl.l ES. and INSURANt E. All work is documented, propcrh researched, and confidential.
WHY SELECT BRUCE BUXTON, INC. TO DO YOUR PERSONAE PROPERTY APPRAISALS 0
• 30 years of appraising experience
• No vested interest - We buy nothing
• We can broker or auction your items
• Team of experts in art, furniture, glass,porcelain,silver,jewelry,orientalruts,etc.
