Portland Monthly Magazine July/August 2003

Page 1


Sleepisoverrated.Thenewlysculpted3SeriesConvertiblesbeckonwith addictivepowerandalistofinnovationstoppedbyAdaptiveHeadlights,the swivelingBi-xenonheadlightsthatanticipateyoureveryturn.Hurry,sundown.

“Mercedes-Benzvehiclesmaintainthebestresidualvalue amongluxurybrands!”

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“Mercedes-Benzvehicleshavethebestoverallbrandvalue amongluxurybrands!”

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Sometimes,wordscantellonlyhalfofthestory.Therewardsofowninga Mercedes-Benz begin the moment you get behind the wheel. Visit your localMercedes-Benzdealertodayandexperienceforyourselfthequalityand performancetheexpertsaresowildabout.Clearly,you’llbegladyoudid.Value.. Unlikeanyother

For All Walks of Life"

Stylesfrombusinesstocasual,sizes5-16andwidthsAAA-EEE.Truly thewidestselectionavailable.AndwithourexclusiveRecrafting* process,theywon’thavetobecastawaywhentheywearout.Stopin andseethelateststyles. ShoesfromtoptobottomHillcrest,\ewcomb.Hyannis

Helikescityscapes,youlikerollinghills.Whateveryourinspiration,asWood-Modedesignprofessionals weunderstandhowimportantthefeelingofyournewkitchenistoyou.Which ^Wood-Mode iswhywe’lldoeverythingpossibletohelpyouachievethelookyouwant. 11 cAm

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Period-inspired Kennebec cabinetry. Timeless in design. Crafted v TX rerioa-mspireu nenneoec caometry. i imei |\|iSrjlt/C J an dfinishedbyhandtolastalifetime.Callus at 207-443-2131 or visit us online at www.KennebecCompany.com.

Ourdailyfarmerstakethepledge.

Forover70years,1foodliasbeengellingourmilkfrom local.Mainedairyfarmers.AndourMainefarmerspledge nottouseartificialgrowthhormones.Youcanseetheir pledgerightonourlabel.1loodmilkisalsopasteurized andbottledinMaine,providingjobsforyourneighbors andsupportingtheMaineeconomy.

Andthere'sonemorereasontochooseHoodmilk.It comesinouruniqueLightBlockbottlewhichprotects milk'snutritionandflavorfromdieharmfuleffectsoflight. Sovoucanbesure1loodmilkfromMainewillslay wholesomeanddelicious.

IloodisproudlohavebeenapartofMainesince1928.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

North Winds Kiteboarding

Bv Alison Buhnan

IN & ABOUT TOWN

SallsStruthersappearsinOgunquit Theater'sAlways.PatsyCline.

SELECT AREA RESTAURANTS

JamMaine.U.S.Route1,Kitten

FICTION:

"C.cnerositv"BvMichelleCacho-Ncgctc

WYETH'S NEW WYETHS

Mame’shottestvotingpainterjustturnedS6

See four breakthrough new paintings selectedforusbyAndrewWveth.

Bv Colin Sargent

THE BLUE COLLAR ELITE

Maine’s longshoremen arc earning $60 per hour dramatizingaseachangeincorporateculture.

Bv I «mcc I aplcv, photographs bv John McNeil

HEART OF DARKNESS

Maine, and we're getting good word of mouth outofthatdarkness.BvCJorvbox

THE MIRACLE OF OLD SOW

brommalefic"piglets"IotheLubecWaltz, thisdeadkwhirlpoolstorewillrealkpull vouin.BvRobertBlechl

IF YOU REBUILD IT, THEY WILL COME

Pineland’sbravenewworldisacorporateone.

BvJohn C.Schoen

INSIDE STORY: THE WHITE HOUSE ON DEER ISLE

Amagicstaircasecreatesgorgeousinteriors.

Bv Scott Simons

FOREVER PLAID

I he Maine High of Maine k

arrav

When & If

WhenIthinkofGeneralGeorgeS.Patton,1thinkofswearing,sandyboots,the SicilianCampaign,andalife-endingcaraccidentnearMannheim,Germany,on December21,1945.Soit’ssomethingofanabout-facetothinkofPattonupherein Mainein1938,commissioningalocalboatbuildertocreateasleeksailingyachtfor himselfandhisfamily.

Richlvdeckedoutinexpressandmahogany,When andIfwasbuiltbyWiscasset’sF.F. Pendleton,whoisalsocreditedwithGuyGannett’sKestrelII. Pendleton'sgrandson.FredPendleton,livesinWiscassettoday.

"IhaveacopyoftheoriginalcontractofWhen andIfin mvgarage,’’Pendletonsavs.“Infact,Iwenttothelaunch¬ ing.andGeneralPattonwasthere.Iwasjust11.Iremem¬ beritquiteclearlybecausemybrotherwaslaunchedaboard WhenandIf.but1wasn’tallowedtogo.

“Mvfather’sboatyardwasontheeastsideofthelittle islandbelowCastleTucker.DoyouknowLeGaragerestaurant?Gotothe waterfront,turnwest,andthat'swhereithappened.ThenameWhen & Ifrefersto whenPattonmightretire,andifhecouldeverachievehislifelongdreamofsailing aroundtheworld.”

Carryingapricetagof$31,700,theJohnAlden-designedWhen andIfsliddownthe weighsintohistory.Mourningthegeneral’sdeath,thePattonfamilysailedthe64-foot schoonerinhismemoryintothe19,Os.

WhileownedbvthelandmarkSchoolofPridesCrossing,Massachusetts,“shewent agroundinMarblehead.”ANovember1990stormrippedherfromhermooringand crashedherintotherocks.Theywerejustabouttotrashwhatwasleftofher,“buta companyspentamillionbucksandputherbacktogether,"saysPendleton.

ThatcompanywastheCannon&•BenjaminMarineRailwayonMartha’s Vineyard.Rcsplcndentlyrestored,shewasre-launchedin1994amidcheersand reminiscencesfromyachtingenthusiastW'altcrCronkite,whooncecoxcredPatton’s forcesasawarcorrespondent.When<5Ifisjammedwithluxuryappointmentsand moresatelliteequipmentthanNASA.AllofCamdenIlarbordrooledlastsummer whenshesailedintogreetnoneotherthanFredPendletonandhisdaughter,Nicole Walsh,waitingonthedocks.

“Itwasfabulous,"Pendletonrecalls."1finallxgotmvride.”

When andIfisavailableforcharterthissummerfor15passengers.Call508-6934658ore-mailgandb(Fgannonandbcnjamin.com.Ifandwhenyouarereadytopay thecharterrateofSI.”00adav.

KellyPreston

KudostoKcllvPreston(“Wliatz\ WomanWants,”interviewbyInuisB. Hobson,Sumnierguide2003)!It'sso wonderfultoseeawomanwhohasfound herownplacetoshinebevondthelightof herhusband'scelebrity.1thinkcvcrvwife andmothersharesinherstruggletobe identifiedoutsideoftheirrolesaswifeand mother.Sheshowsthatbvfollowingyour heartandbeingatpeacewithwhoyou are,everythingelsefallsintoplace.Sheis tnikaninspiration.

becksvf'mainc.rr.com

Verywellwritten.W'egetapeekinside thelivesoftwoofthekindestpeopleinthe humanrace.

BcvcrhIlerrison

bharrisltP'mainc.rr.com

Anotherstoryaboutrichout-of-staters buyingupoceanpropertv.

ddowltf'maine.rr.com

EugeneO'NeillinMaine

Ke:sourstoryaboutEugeneO’Neillin Belgradelakes[“'IlieMaineSummerof EugeneO'Neill,"byMattBarker.May -003]:'Ihemanwhowasthecaretakerat loonIxxlgein1926wasagreatston-tellcr, andoneofhisstorieswashowhecleaned upthe1xxlgeafterO'Neillleftandcarted awayawheelbarrow-loadofemptvbottles anddumpedthemintothewoods.

R.E.Ereeman Ogunquit

^ourmagazinegetsbetterandbetter

^j^HELDOn

issai EQaa was mas amp

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ushelpyoudesignandbuildacustom sink,countertoporvanity.Custom inquiriesarehandledthroughthe Monson,Mainedivision.

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MAXWELL’S

POTTERY OUTLET

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every month.1 justkeep thinking, whoelse wouldever putanHIVpositive votinggirl onthecover [“Autumin Spring,”by Lmce

Tapley,Ecbniary/March2003]anddothe historvofthattimeinPortland?

Wliowouldfindoldblack-and-white photosofsomeancientwriter[“The MaineSummerofEugeneO’Neill”] visitingMaine(andhelookssodamn cool)andmakesourreaderscare?

Daniel Domench

Rich Man Poor Man

1found"RichMan,PoorMan,”by L«inceTapley[Max’2003],vervinter¬ estingindeed.Thankyou!Ilikethefad that[David]Shawisaphilanthropistwho likestofocusonmakingcompanies sociallyresponsible.

Ialsolikethese[turnsofphrase]:“Doa carefulanalysisofopportunities.”“The conventionalwisdomisoftenwrong.” Andonegreatcliche:"It’sbettertobea piratethanjointhenavy.”

Biggestcontradiction:“Ididn’twantto havemyfuturebedefinedbymypast," buthealsosavs“pastpracticesarethe bestpredictorofthefuture.”

Theotherfellow,“BobbySmith,” seemsnicebutinarutformanyreasons. Icanseethepotentialforthisman,but moreimportantlvheneedstoseeit... Guessit’safinelinebetweenthetwo... 'Thanksforthisstory.Itmademethink! Max1laves Yarmouth,Maine

Ithinkthisstorywaswelldoneand showsthedisparitybetweenthe social/financialgroupsintheworld, andtheneedtobalancethe“polar opposites.”!hopethatthisstoryfuels actionandsocialresponsibility.

rpclton@inainc.rr.coni

Excellentarticle.IenjoyedreadingitGoodinsight. mpcterson@spsd.org

PORTLAND MAGAZINE

Em suingEditor&Pubijsiier COLIN S.NRGENT

Art &• Production XanCY SARGENT .wotew

Jesse Stexbak Produchon ManagerstafF"portlandmonthly.com

Danny Lou iex Graphs

advertising Laura Beth Grant Adnmmng Directorlg("portlandrnonthlv .co, S i eve Luttrell

COLIX S. SARGEX I Advctli.ing O Produelliin

editori \i, Amy Louise Barnett cop,Kdlta , Diane Hudson CalendarPhotographerReviews JOHN\1C?\I.IL Photographer

accounting j OI |x Gerdes ecmroiur Pam \\ allace AccounB»g

interns Christopher M. Johnson

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John C. Schoen

Andrew Colvin

Editorialoffices:Addresslettersandquestionsto:TheEditor, PORTLANDMAGAZINE, 722 Congress Street, Portland, Maine 0-4102

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Ismail ns at staff(«'portlandmonthly.coin

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NewsstandCoverDate:Julv/August2003,publishedinJuly2003.Vol.18,No.5,copyright2003. PORTLAND MAGAZINE ismailedatthird-classmailratesinPortland,ME04101(ISSN:10/3-185,). Opinionsexpressedinarticlesarcthoseofauthorsanddonotrepresenteditorialpositionsof PORTLAND MAGAZINE.Letterstotheeditorarewelcomeandwillbetreatedasunconditionallyassignedfor publicationandcopyrightpurposesandassubjectto PORTLAND MAGAZINE’Sunrestrictedrighttoedit andcommenteditorialh.Responsibleonlyforthatportionofanyadvertisementwhichisprinted incorrecth.Advertisersareresponsibleforcopyrightsofmaterialstheysubmit.Nothinginthisissue maybereprintedinwholeorinpartwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublishers.Submissions welcome,butwetakenoresponsibilityforunsolicitedmaterials.

PORTLAND MAGAZINEispublished10timesannuallybySargentPublishing,Inc.,“22Congress Street.Portland,Maine,withnewsstandcoverdatesofWinterguide.Eebruary/March,April.May. Summerguide,Julv/August,September,October,November,andDecember. www.portlandmagazine.com

1897

a“timeless

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chowder atastyblendoftheintriguing&absurd

WellTraveledHouse

IhoughthefilmMr.Barringtoncouldtakeplaceamwhere,it’snothardtodetectits Maineroots.DirectedbyMainenativeDanaPackardandshotlocallv,Mr.Barringtonis thestoryofawriterconfrontedbyherinnerdemonsinsideaVictorianhome.Infact,it’s Packard’sownhomeinBuxton,builtinthe1860s.

ComparedtoLila,themaincharacterwhose landscapeisindoors,thehouseitselfisquiteatraveler. Rescuingthe2.5-storyhousewithcupola“fromthe cornerofAllenAvenueandWashingtonAvenue,near /Xmato’s”fromdemolitionin1995.Packardpurchased itforjust$10andtmekeditfromPortlandineight traffic-jammingpieces.

Exceptforthreecharacters, Packardcastlocalactors fromlireOriginals,his theatercompanv.

loveithere,thepeople

“W'elivehere,we arecapable.Idon’tthinktherearc

anyproblems[here]vouwouldn’tgetamwhereelse.” Asadirector,heenjoyspartneringwiththeunexpected. It’sreallycooltoguide[thefilm]forsolong,thensitback andsechowittakesflight."Tofollowitsflight,visit "ww.mrbarrington.com.Mr.Barringtonwillbe showingatmultiplefestivalsintheU.S.,Canada, andEurope.“It’sgoingtobeabusyfall." Packardsaxs.

S.B.:Theconventsceneswereshotin theParsonsficldSeminary,caredforbv ^cbriendsofParSem,wholet Packarduseitforfree.

Something ToReadBy

mystiqueishardlyan illusion.W'ecaughtup withhimontheeveof hisAugust13perfor¬ manceattheMer¬ rillAuditorium. Ilowfastcan youmakea hot-boiled Mainelobster disappear?

DC:[laughs] Thatdependson howhungry1am! Whatcomesto mindwhenyou thinkofMaine?

DC:Antiques, actually.Youknow thatfortune-telling boothinthe movieBig?1have avastcollectionof nostalgicitemslikethat.I’mhopingtofind somemoreinMaine.

DoyoufeelHoudini’slegacy?1Ieonce camehereandjumpedoffForeFiverBridge.

DC:Actually,1ownhalfof1loudini’s personallibrary;theotherhalfisinthe 1JbraryofCongress.Butwhat’syourwater temperature?Amblingspossible! blameoneover-the-topillusionyou couldperfonninMaine.

DC:Well,IveseenpicturesofPort¬ land1leadLight.Asvouknow,Ive madetheStatueofLibertydisappear. PerhapsIcouldplacethelighthouse onLiberhIslandandgivetheStatue somethingbrightertoreadby.

Where the Rocks Are Dreamcatching

ForMerleHallett,“there’snothinglikeCascoBavanywhere elseintheworld.It’sabsolutelywonderful,plus1knowwhere alltheislands,and,mostimportantly,alltherocksarc.” WlicnHallettofHandyBoatYard,andDanWcllehanof Sebago,Inc.,startedtheMSRegattain1981,fewerthan 20boatssailedtheloopingcoursearoundCascoBav. Lastyear,119sailboatshailingfromYorktoBarHarbor cruisedoutofFalmouthtoPortlandinpreparationfor thestartoftheGMORA(GulfofMaineOceanRacing Association)-sanctionedevent.Today,withafleetof 125,theMSRegattaisthelargestsailingracein.Maine andthelargestcharityregattainNewEngland. Hallettrememberstheearlydays.“Basically,ifyou werewarm,youwerein.W'coriginallvsetthisraceupso thattheguyscouldcomeoutanddoitandthengetback tomowingthelawnlaterthatweekend.Backinthedav, mybuddiesandIweretheonesdoingthelongeroffshore races,liketheMonheganandYarmouth[NovaScotia]-to avoidmowingthelawn.”

Idrisyear,thenewlyrenamedMSHarborfestwilljumpwith activitiesintheOldPortontheMaineStatePier,ontheEastern Prom,inFalmouthatIlandyBoat,andatSpringPointMarinain SouthPortland."W'creallywanttogettheentirewaterfront invoked,”Ilallettsavs.August15-17sparkleswithabenefitauction,

tugboatmuster,line-throwingcontest,boat-buildingdemonstration, thePemvianBandIncaSong,lobsterrollandfriedclamvendors, andtheFirstAnnualPowerboatPokerRun.B.J.Bangsofthe aineChapteroftheAISSocietv promises,“Lastyearweraised ,500.Thisyearwehope| topSI14,000.”

Wliatspellsrefreshmentwhenvou’rebeing chasedbydemonicaliensthroughthenorth woodsofMaine?Ifthealienshaven’t rippedoffyourannyet,reachfora Geary’sPaleAle.'IhisMainestaple recentlyenjoyedacameoappearance inDreamcatcher,thefilmbasedon StephenKing’sthriller.'Ihere’s nothingpaleaboutthisale’s perfonnanceonscreen,clutchedin thehandsoffourdoomedbuddies reunitedatanoldsummercamp [thoughtheirsubsequentbehavior leadsonetoconcludeGeary’sisan hallucinogen].Geary’sisnostrangerto thesilverscreen,havingstarredinother movies,suchasHeedfulThingsand ManWithoutAFace.“'Ihevwanted somethingauthentic,”DavidGcarvsavs abouttheproducersofDreamcatcher,who wantedaAlainelx?crtomatchtheAlainesetting. -AndiwCahm

PassionateVisit

ManChapinCarpentergracesMerrill/AuditoriumAugust8. “W’e’redoingalittleEastCoast‘tourette’bringingusto Portlandjustbecauseitwaseasytoputtogetherandthedates werethereanditwasawavtogetoutandhavesomefun."

Carpenter'slong-awaitedreturnengagementherepromises greatesthitsforfanslike"1Ie'Fhinks Ile’llKeepIler",aswellasnewmaterial forherowninspiration.Likemanv perfonners,CaqjenterconsidersAlainea kevplacetoexperimentwithnewwork.

,"IkeepwritingsoirgsandIkeep wantingtoplavthenewthings,” Caq>entersavs."1sortoftrytopace thesetlistasbest1cansothatit includesenoughnewand enougholdtohopefullyplease themajoritvoftheaudience.”

Carpenterwoncriticalraves forherabilitytointegrateelementsoffolk,rock, country,andCajunmusicintoherrecordings. HometownGirlsecuredherfamein1987,followedbya ^successionofexemplarvcollections,includingmultiple Grammy winnerCome On Come On(1991)andTime SexLove(2001).1lernewalbum,richwithsongsshe’llplav inAlaine,isbeingreleasedthisfall.

InadditiontoherAlerrillappearance,Carpenterisalsoa ^celebrityparticipantinRestore:'HieNorthWoods,a nonprofitorganizationchampioningthedevelopmentofa NationalParkinnorthernAlaine.“ThewavI’vealwavsfeltwas thatitwasaprivilegetobeabletoadvocateonbehalfofcauses andorganizationsthatvoufeltakinshipwithandthatyou helioxcdwerefosteringasenseofcommunitv.”shesavs. , -Mark Griffin

Maine Bay Canvas

Longfellow Serenade

“GodandI.ongfellow,bothdead,” EzraPoundeulogized,butthepoetmav havebeenprematureinbothcases.

Infact,Henn-WadsworthIzmgfellow hasevencomeoutwithhisfirstcompact disk,agardenofverses thattouch theheart, like‘“Ihe RainyDav Actress/Mice

Tweedie,the CD’s rcader/produccr [SI 5.95, W contactalicetweedie®hotmail.comor MaineIlistoricalSocichJ.takesher endeavorven-pcrsonallv.

“ResearchingLongfellow,Ifoundhe playedthepiano,sting,playedtheflute;he wasenonnouslyliterate,fluentin11lan¬ guages,especiallyFrench.Spanish,Italian, German,andtheScandanavianlanguages.

“Hisworkmovesme,particularlv“Hie CrossofSnow.’Hewrotethatafterhis belovedsecondwifediedwhenshe caughtonfireinfrontofhiseyesand burnedtodeath.”

‘HheCrossofSnow”refusestomugreadeis withthedirectnessofthetragedyandisall themorepowerfulforitsunderstatement.

‘“TheRains'Dav’isaclassic.Hewrote ‘intoeachlifesomerainmustfall.’After Shakespeare.Longfellowisamajor architectofourcommonspeech.

“IIewroteitafterhisfirstwifedied,preg¬ nant.Hisyouthhadpassedhimby.He wasataverylowpoint.Hecamebackto Portlandandlookedoutthewindowinto thebackgarden.Itwasraininginthat samestormthatneverseemstoleave Portland.Ithasacourageousmessage;We arenotalone.”

Riot Crew

SouthPortlandIligh’sRiotCrew, composedofstudents,acoach,parents, teachers,engineers,andmachinists, dazzled43U.S.andCanadianteams withafirst-placefinishatthe2003BAK SystemsGraniteStateRegionalFIRST ForInspirationandRecognitionof ScienceandTechnology)Robotics CompetitioninManchester,Xcw Hampshire.BAISSytcmsisamajor producerofaircraftself-protection systemsandtacticalsurveillanceand intelligencesystemsforallbranchesof thearmedforces.

SponsoredbyFairchildSemiconduc¬ tor,theteamcreateda129.3poundrobot gz/standing 13.5inches tallnamed BoxTax. Boxlax unhurriedly stackslargeplastic containerswhilewarding offattackingcompetitors,operatingautono¬ mouslyforthefirst15secondsandcon¬ trolledforthefinaloneminute,45seconds byateamdriver.

Winningnineoutof10qualifying roundsandsurvivingalleliminationat¬ tempts,therobotalsodemurelyreceived theMotorolaQuality/Award.Typical Mainerthatheis,BoxTaxplaveditlowbey,insistingthatmuchofthecreditis duetohisbuilders.

availableinPortlandatsignificantsavingsofffamous national department store and catalog pricing. homefashions■personalaccessories■lighting

Peoplewhomadethemistakeof freezingAndrewWvethintime duringthe1960sand1970swillbe astonishedtoseehisnewwork.Farfrom creatingsetdecorationsforTheIceStorm, WyethatS6ispaintingvoting.verv young,rightnow.

ExclusivelyforPoint axd\Iacmixi:. Wyeth,whocelebratedhisbirthdavon July12,hascrackedopenthedoorofhis studiotopersonallyselectfournewmas¬ terworksthatgiveusaglimpseofwhat he’sthinkingaboutnow.

Otherworld[aboveleft],paintedin -002,isthefirst.1lore,inaremarkable updateofChristina’sWorld,avotinggirl looksdreamilvoutthewindowofa

\|RBORXE1996.tcnijxr;)onpanel.40x48in..PrivateCollection 1Andrew \\ veth corporatejetastheCushinglandscape flashesbelow.Thebreakneckspeedof thisdreamtinterludeanditsdangeris hintedatbvtheseatbeltintheemptyseat. Liquidbluelightspillsthroughanother

portalontothetable.Time,andourideas ofaconventionallandscape,vanishbelow oureyes.ItisasifWyethisflyingallofus overthehistorvofhisworkandourexpec¬ tationsofit.XoonecantrumpAndrew W'vethlikeAndrewW\eth. Airborne[above]alsoexplodeswiththe kindofplayfulnessyoumightexpectfrom anemergingvotingpainterwiththecour¬ agetoworkwithoutasafetynet.Riffing

hAirborne,seagullfeathers co-optourexpectations atraditionallandscape.

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onItisownlifelikeajazzartist,Wvcth co-optsourideasof‘conventional landscape’withawhooshofseagull feathersinthepainting’sforeground,“as ifsomethingterriblehashappenedjust aninstantbefore,”sayszkndrcsVcrzosaof AucociscoGalleries.Thefeathers,and Wyethssenseofplay,hijackouratten¬ tionawayfromwhatweexpecttosee. Eventhingaboutthiswonderfulpainting isnew.

Whataconcept-thatthe

hottestyoungartistpainting onthecoastofMainethis summerjustturned86.

OntheEdge[secpage]shimmers withpowerandperspective.The solitaryfigure,ambiguouslvyoung andnotsoyoung,standsontheedgeof lifeanddeath,darknessandlight,rock andocean,stormandsun.

Wvcthchoosesnottorevealthesubject’s faceinthisprivatemomentmadegiantby geographv.Themodempaletteandzip-up turtleneckcontrastwithleggingsthatin theirkncc-nobbinesshintofRevolutionary Wartimes,asifshehassomehowbeento theMaineiMallthismorningandalsopar¬ ticipatedinBenedictArnold’sMarchto Quebec.Farfrombeingtheonlvoneord here,sheisaccompaniedbygenerationsof oceanviewerspromptedtostarkdecision¬ makingbythedecisionthatwaterandland makesinfrontofoureyes.Outhere,time andthewindareendless.

Undermined[page21]isanotherapocakpticwork.ThesolemnwhiteMaine framehouse,nakedoxerabeach,is ostensiblythesubjectmatteruntilour exesarcvankedupandtothelefttoward ashimmeringelevationbehindit.\\hat isthis?Isitaquarry,withitstowersand cranes?IsittheoldThomastonprison, luminousinitsabsencenowthatit’s beentorndoxxn?Isiticecream?The promontorvisnotneccssarik'friendly,in spiteofitsdazzle.zAsthetitlesuggests,it underminesanythingelseonthecanvas andhintsofadangerousfuturewithits longflatshapeofzXrmageddon.

Inanvcase,itseemstohaveintrudedon thispaintingfromanotherxxorld,axxorldof thefutureorpossiblefromthepirateland¬ scapesofN.C.Wxeth.Thebackgroundof thispaintingisupsettingandproxocatixein thewax’thatartoughttoupsetusonthe

Ixickcd-uphighwaytothesublime. NotthatthisisnewforAndrewWyeth. AttheFarnsworthGallery(www.farnsworth.org),viewerscanexperiencestun¬ ningartworksbythreegenerationsof \\\cthsaswellaslistentoatapeof Andrewrelatingaconversationhehad withhisfather,N.C.Wyeth,after showinghimhispaintingTurkeyPond.

Withhisillustrationsofpiratesand galleons,IndiansandArabianpalaces, YoungAndrewWyethwas toorespectful,andalready toowise,toanswerthatit was1944,thattheManhat¬ tanProjectwascreating theatombomb,andthat theturkeysareeverywhere inTurkeyPond.

X.C.Wvcth’sgeniuswastorecreatefor theviewerwhatwasalreadyinhisorher mind'seve.SoN.C.insistedonbeing told,uponseeingAndrew’snewpainting Turke)’Pond.“Wlicrcaretheturkeys?”

YoungAndrewWyethwastoorespect¬ ful,andalreadytoowise,toanswerthatit was1944,thattheManhattanProject wascreatingtheatombomb,andthatthe turkeysarccvcnwhcrcinTurkeyPond.

Asolitarymanwalksdownoverahillof drygrasstowardthepondamidthe turkevswecan’tsee.

Anvsecond,thevcouldexplodeoutof thatgrass;theirpalpableabsencestalksus witheverystep.Wvethwasamodernist eventhen,dislocatingsubjectandobject, thethoughtandtheaction.

Turke)-PondisoneofmanyWyeth mastcqjicccsthatprefiguredbisbreak¬ throughworktoday.

Wliataconcept-thatthehottestyoung artistpaintingonthecoastofMainethis summeris/AndrewWVeth.

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Atasmuchas$6O/hour(withMaine'saverage$14), it'sniceworkifyoucangetit.

Itisaclub,however,thatbelievesitcanrejuvenateitselfwith moremembers.ButitisfrustratedthattheCityofPortland, throughanow-notorious,seeminglyinterminableplanning process,haspreventeditfromdoingso.

Aboveall,thisisaclubthatinspiresloyalty.Itislikeafamily.In fact,inmanyinstances,itliterallyisafamily.

Familymen

“Idon’tthinkthere’sabetterbunchofguyswhoworksowell togetherwithoutsomeoneontheirass,”saysshort, wizenedMattConnolly,67,aboutPortland’shappv

bandoflongshoremen,themen(thereareno women)wholoadandunloadships’cargoeson thewaterfront.

Matthasarighttobesentimental.Bothhis grandfatherandfatherworkedonthedocks, andsodocshisson,Tom,39.Retired/ from the Maine State Liquor ; Commission as a store manager in . [ eingaPortlandlongshoremanislikebelongingtoatiny, rich,exclusiveclubwithhoarytraditionsandastoried history-butaclubthatisshrunken,isaging,andhasseen farbetterdays.Just41longshoremenarcleft,andonlyabout30 arcactive.

1990,lie,too,hasbeenalongshoreman, part-time,for30years.Ileistreasurerof theunion.Local861,PortlandLong¬ shoremen’sBenevolentSociety,char¬ teredin1881andpartoftheInternation¬ al1,ongshoremen'sAssociation. Matt’sclosecolleague,JackIlumeniuk (pronouncedwithasilent“u”),is53.has slicked-backhair,glasses,andwearsblue jeans./\formerroadmanagerofarock band,hemovedtoPortlandin1974and tworearslaterjoinedtheunion.“1was lucky,”hesaid.1lissonAnthony,20,a collegestudent,islucks,too.IIealso worksintheunion.

JackisLocal861'sbusinessagentor manager.Andheisoperationschief forP&OPorts,thecompanythe unionworksforatthePortlandInterna¬ tionalMarineTerminal'scargoopera¬ tion.Inmarinebusinesses,everyinstitu¬ tionseemstobasealongandfar-reach¬ ingheritage.P&OdatestoIlongKong inthe1800s.Italsorunsthelongshore workinBoston,Baltimore,Miami,and manyothercitiesworldwide.

JackandMattaretheofficeguys.4hey managethebookkeeping,thepension fund,thehealthandlifeinsurance,the two-times-a-vearbonuses.Asizeablelist ofpeoplewouldliketobecomelong¬ shoremeninordertohavethesebenefits, worthSI1.50anhour,andespeciallyto havethebasepay,$27anhour.

1lowcvcr.nowadaysonlyacoupleof slotsarearopenup-mavbe.The unionhasn’ttakeninnewmembersfor afewyears.Peoplehangontothese

hemeaningof“win/win.”

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jobs.Theyarcpasseddownfatherto son.Theyoungestlongshoremanis20; theoldestis67.Theaverageage:early 40s.z\nditisstablework.Althoughthe mennegotiatewithP&Oforacontract, thereislittlechancetheywillgoouton strike.Therehasn’tbeenonelocally sincethe1940s.

Butthere’sabighitchtothisgreat job.Therearconlythreefull-time employees:Jack,Matt,airdamech¬ anic.Foreverybodyelse,it’sverymucha part-timeoccupation.Theregular,full¬ timejobsofthePortlandlongshoremen includelobsterman,lettercarrier,fire¬ man,andleather-shopproprietor.

“It’sagoodsupplementalincome,”says longshoremanMikePox.

Tooutsiders,thegoodpayandbenefits seemtoputthemintoanelitecategory. Mikeresponds:“Ifyouget$100anhour andsouhavenohours,itdoesn’tmatter."

Mike,55,short,withamustache,be¬ camealongshoremanrightoutofhigh schoolin1967.Ataroundthattime,he alsobecamealettercarrier,andhestill is.Likeothersintheunion,heaxerages sixtoeighthoursaweekathisextrajob. 11isgrandfatherandfatherworkedonthe Portlanddocks./Andsodoes-yes-his son,Chad,23,whohasalreadybeenin theunionforthreeyears.

Withthesefamilytiessoprominent, couldlongshorementodaybeanxthinglike thelegendaivdockxxorkersofyore:alooseliving,big-muscled,hard-drinkingspecies?

“Theoldtimerswereabreedapart,” Mikeresponds.“Theywereagroup1 don’tthinksou’llsecagain.”

Andtheworkis“notnearlywhatitused tobe”intermsofphssicallabor,Jackadds. “Todas.exciythingismechanized.Afairly nonnal,healths'individualcandoit.”

Boothbay Harbor. Maine

Itcanbedangerouswork,though,es¬ peciallyatnightwithsnowandice.At thesametime,itissafeworkinPortland. Becauseofthecarefulnessofthesemen, theunionhasrecordedonlytwominor injuriesin12years.

Thejob

InMike’sgrandfather’sday,intheearly 1920s,therewereasmanyas2,000men unloadingscoresofshipsberthedatthe city’sdozenbusypiers.Mam’wereIrish immigrants.FormerDemocraticGov. JosephBrennan’sfatherworkedonthe coalpiers.Bythe1970s,thereweremavbe150left.

Xow,thehandfuloffather-and-sonsur¬ vivorsunloadjustonefreighteraweek. Andit’sthesameship,theShamrock,a blue-and-whitc,French-ownedcoastal vesselmannedbvPolishseamen.She docksgenerallyeven-AlondayorTues¬ dayatthemarineterminal,theconcrete pierunderthebigbridgetoSouthPort¬ land.TheScotiaPrincealsodocksthere eachnightMaythroughOctober.

TheShamrockholdsupto500contain¬ ersandmakesaregulartripeachweek fromHalifaxtoPortland(22hoursatsea, onaverage),thentoBoston(seven hours),thenbacktoIlalifax(24hours).

Shealsosteamsonceaweektothe FrenchislandsSaintPierreandMiquel¬ on,offNewfoundland,deliveringfood andotherconsumables.

Port-aux-Francais,listedastheSham¬ rock’shomeportonherbow,iswhatis knownasaportofconvenience.“It’sa littleislandnottoofarfromtheAntarctic circle,”saystheship’sagent,JohnIhidsoii, watchingcarefullyastheshipisunloaded. John,whoseownhomeportisBoston, saysaclayworkingwiththecompetent

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longshoremenofPortland,comparedto someotherportshewon’tname,“islike dyingandgoingtoheaven.JackIlumaniuk hasavervgoodheadformanagement."

Itgenerallytakes15longshoremenfour tosixhourstounloadtheShamrock.“It wouldhavetaken85menaweekanda halfintheolddavs,”saysMike.

Thosewerethedavsbeforecontain¬ erization.Containersarewhythere aresofewlongshoremeninPort¬ landnow.Thatandautomationandthe concentrationofshippinginafewports. Scvcntv-eightpercentoftheworld’s maritimedrv-cargogoodsnowtravelby containerships.

Oneofthelongshoremen-Matt'sson. Tom-sitsinasmallcabin78feetupon the21O-foot-high,Austrian-made,com¬ puterizedcraneonthepier.Usingtwo joysticks,witheightbuttonsandtwotrig¬ gersoneach,andatelevisioncameraon theendoftheboom,hegentlvliftsthe orange,50-ton,Hapag-Lloydcontainers outoftheship’sholdandcarefullyswings themontoaspecialtruck.Thetrucktakes themintotheadjacentyard,whereatop¬ lifter,whichlookslikeagiantforklift, stacksthem.Theywillbetakenawayby tractor-trailers.

Despitethehigh-techequipment,ona warmspringdaythereisanold-fashioned. Iseaweedy.low-tidesmelltothepier.On ;thisday,someofthecontainershaveBel¬ gianyarnfortheblemishMasterWeav¬ erscaqretcompanyinSanford.Initially, thesecontainerswerehoistedontoa muchlargercontainership,probablyin

Rotterdam,thenoffloadedin11alifaxand transferredtotheShamrock.Othertypi¬ calimportstoMainethatarrivebythe shiparcseaweedforRockland’s1*’MC Corporationcarrageenanplant,liquorfor WhiteRockDistilleriesinLewiston,and stovesfromScandinaviafortheJoin] US/\warehousesinPortlandandGor¬ ham.Importsincludepaperproducts andmachinery.

Inadditiontounloadingthisfreighter, inthewarmseasonthemenalsohavea steadyjobloading“stores”-mainlyfood andliquoronpallets-intothe30to50 cruiseshipsthatplyPortlandIlarboreach year.'Hieonlyotherwaterborneshipments comingintotheharborarcfreighters bringingcoal,salt,andotherbulkgoodsto Merrill’sMarineTerminalfarthertipthe loreRiver,plusthemanyoiltankersin SouthPortland,butthesefacilitiesdon’t usetheunionizedlongshoremen.

TheFuture

“Phisterminalistoosmall”totakein morefreight,Jacksays.1Iespecificallyis talkingaboutthethree-acresizeofthe CommercialStreetyardusedtostackthe containers.Thecargofacilitydoesabout S400millionofimportsayear,butthat amountstoonly2,400containers.The PortofBostondocs25timesthisbusiness. Onceuponatime,though,itwas "orsc.ThecargobusinessinPortland badbeengoingsouthforyears,andthen "lientheBathIronWorkstookoverthe MaineStatePierintheearly1980stouse Rforshiprepair,Portland’slongshoremen

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weredrivencleanoutofwork.Therewas simplynoplacetounloadfreighters. Then,for10years,sustainedbytheir full-timejobs,theunionmembers besiegedcityandstatepoliticianstoget freightbackintotheharbor.Theunion hasalwaysbeenpolitical.Itgivesgener¬ ouslytocandidates-traditionally, toDemocrats.

Thevgotaresponse.Citvvotersina 1980sreferendumspccificalK supportedkeepingPortlanda workingwaterfront.Then,aftermoney flowedfromseveralstatebondissues,the citvbuiltthemarineterminal,whichit nowsubleasestoP&’Oforthecargo work.Thestateownsthe$2.5-million crane,boughtwithoneofthebond issues,andleasesittothecity.In1991, theShamrock’spredecessor,theYankee Clipper,begantheregular"feeder”run ofIlalifax-Portland-Boston.

JackIlumcniukappreciatesthishistoric supportonthepartofPortlandandthe SlateofMaine.IIeknowsMainepeople wanttoretainPortland’sworkingwater¬ front.Ileunderstands“thereisarealiza¬ tionthatifthistownweretoturnintoa touristyNcwbunport.itwouldn’tbeso interesting.Peopledon’tcometosee t-sliirtstands.”

Buthedoescomplainvigorouslyabout theplanningprocesstheCityofPortland hasengagedinforthepastfouryearsthat hasheldup$9millioninstatebondissue moneyapprovedbvthevotersforwater¬ frontredevelopment.Thismoneyistobe matchedby$65millioninfederalfunds anda$l-millioncitvappropriation.The longshoremenhaveabigstakeinit.

The$165-milliontotalissupposedto bespenttodevelopthecastendofthe waterfrontintoOccangate,anewferry andcruise-shipterminal.Thenthe ScotiaPrincewillvacateitspresentberth. Thenthebigferrvparkinglotcanbe usedforcontainers.Andthentheinter¬ nationalmarineterminalwillbeonlya cargoport.

“Wovetalkedtothreecompaniesthat wantIoexporttoPortland,butweneeda biggeryard.”Jacksays.

Thebigeconomicbenefitfroman expandedcargofacilitywillbetoMaine businessesthatcansaveintransportation costsbyshippingfromitandimporting throughit.ButJackbelievesthatwitha biggervard-bringingina40-pcrccnt increaseincargoamonth,heestimatestherealsowouldbeabigincreasein

longshorework.

"Wlrvnotspendthatmoney?”Mike Foxasksinfrustration.Thisistheeraof globalization,ofworldtrade.“It’dbea shotinthearmforPortland.”

“Thelongshoremenarefrustrated?I don'tblame'em!”exclaimsJeffrey Monroe,laughinguproariouslyanda littlebitterly.“AskmehowIfeel!”

ThesalineCaptainMonroe(hehasa merchantmarinemaster’slicense),the citv’sdirectorofportsandtransportation, saystheplanningforOccangatc,threeyears behindschedule,is“themostcom¬ prehensiveplanningprojectanyone’sever beenthrough.Ithashad275publicmeet¬ ings,andI’mnotexaggeratingonebit.”

Therehavebeenmeetingsofseveral generationsofcityplanningcommittees, plusmeetingswithneighborhoodgroups, propertvowners,cruiselines,andmany others.Speakingofcityofficialsgenerally, “thevdidn’twanttodesignjustthemarine facility,thevwantedtodesignthewhole EastEndwaterfront,"Monroesays.

Butnow,hebelieves,thereislightat theendofthisplanningtyphoon.A Portlandengineeringfirm,Woodard&• Curran,isworkingonthespecificsofthe

Occangatcterminalandthenewfreight shedplannedfornearbyCascoBay Lines.Monroesaysheexpectsthecon¬ structiontobefinishedbythespringof 2006-“ontheoutside."

WiththeScotiaPrincemovedripthe harbor,therewillbe11moreacresof spacetostackcontainers.‘That’lldoit,” hesays."Ifyouhavethefaci1itv,people willtakeadvantageofit.”

Thiswillhappen,too,Monroeadds, becausePortland’slongshoremenbase suchagoodreputationamongshippers.

Tveworkedwithlongshoremenin otherports,”herelates.“I’veworkedwith somerealassholes.ButinPortlandthev doanoutstandingjob.”

Wliyhavepoliticiansandcitizenspaidso muchattentiontothefateofthesefewmen onthewaterfront,thisblue-collarelite?

"It'snotjustthe41men,"Jacksass.“It’s keepingthediversityofpeopleonthewater¬ front.Eachbusinessisimportant.We’rean essentialelementofthatdiversity.”

Ilicrcsanotherreasonthe longshoremen’sworkisvaluedinthisday andageofindoorwork,ofrowsoftins’ officecubicles.

“It’sreal,”Jackadds.

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/leadpanning.Arazor-sharpslabofrock appearsaboveme.Eyesalert.Ilead panning.Daggersofgranitejutfromit, readytoslicemvscalpifIshouldtryto stand,whichmvbodvnowachestodo. Dripsfromanundergroundstream tricklefromthecraggvceilingabove. Ileadpanning.Spiderwebsseetheover myface.I’minafreezerwheremybony elbowsandkneessmashandscrape againsttheproddingrocks.Mybreathis myguide,leadingmeforward.'Thenthe wallsclosein.

t’sabellyslideintothedarkness,and withoutmybearings,eventhing appearstomove.Theceilinglowers. Thefloorrises.Eyesalert.Iamnolonger abletopan.Thewallsaretooclose. Thenithitsme,thepartofmeI’vetried tokeepsecretforlongerthanI’dliketo admit.Irealize,ormybodyrealizes,that Ican’tmove.Itellmyfingerstomove. Thevdon’t.Iscreamatthem.Theyare deaf.Ikickandvvigglc.butit’shardto talksenseintoawallofstone,Pear descendsthroughmyshoulderblades andfreezesmeasmvmemoryflipsa calendarpagetothedaybefore.

“Everyoneexperiencesit,”Eric Ilendricksonsays.Anacclaimedinterna¬ tionalcaver,Ilendricksonalsoconductsa secretlifeasascienceteacheratPresque Isle11ighSchool.“Wecavers[spelunkers, heinfonnsme,arcSundavcavers,inci]>ientundergroundbeings,amateurswith souvenirbeersteinsontheirmantles]even¬ tuallyallgetstuckorlost,butit’ssomething vougetusedtoandovercome.It’smental.'

Onthispoint,wearcincomplete agreement.Maine,tvpicallvknownasa getawavforboaters,bikers,hikers,and bcachgoers,alsoservesasadestination

HOTEL

attractionforsubterraneantourists, thoughwecan’tofferthekindof sprawlinglimestoneformationswith stalactitesandstalagmitesyou’dsecin Virginia’sLuravCaserns.

“Mainedoesn’tbasebigcases,true,but wcdohaseuniquecasesunlikeany¬ whereelseinthessorkl.1«istsummer, theNationalSpeleologicalSocietyheld theirinternationalconsentionherein Camden,”Ilendricksonsaysblithelyin ms'memoryssliilcIremaintrappedin thecasealone,hereonhiscalmrecom¬ mendation,suppressinginsscream. 1screamaimsas;atthetopofmylungs. Theonls’comfortIreceiseisaloud, sibratingecho.

Hendrickson’slyricaldirectionstothis caseguidedmeherelikealullabs;ora children’sfable:“Ontherightsideofthe roadssillbeabrook,andtotherightof that,asmalltrail.

"Eolloss-thetrailalongthestream. Don’tcrossthestream.”

Thereitssas,thetrapdoor,theclcsator shaftoutofthesunlight.Icertainlyssasn’t goingdossn...here'.

MostMainecasesarctalusorfissure cases,theresultsofdetachedbedrock formationscreatedinmanycasessshen glaciersfromtheIce,\gcbegantoretreat. Inman’sCaseinCamden,the/Mlagash IceCasesinAroostookCounty,andthe IceCasesofGreenssoodsscrcall createdbysuchserendipity.Maineisalso hometoseacaseslikeAnemoneSea CaseinAcadiaNationalPark,namedfor theiridescentpinksealifeglossinginits tidalpools.

Seacasesarecausedbyssasesmechanicalls'eatingass-ayattherock.Manyof

Ralph Waldo Emerson

thesecasesmas’beondrylandnow,but theyusedtobeattheocean’sedge.The coastofMaineislitteredwithseacaves insearchofanocean.

Allofwhichstillleasesmeinthisdark¬ ness-likeamovietheaterwiththescreen goneblack.

Arrivinghere,Icouldhaveturnedback. 1rememberpeeringintothepit,edgedin rocksthatlooklikegraycharcoal,wonder¬ ing,“DoIdare?” Icouldhaveturnedback. Irememberpeering intothepit,edgedinrocks thatlooklikegray charcoal,wondering, "DoIdare?"

Onewayin,onewax’out.'I’hesim¬ plicityisZen-like.SohereIam, disappearingfromtheworldinside a14-inchhole.

Everytime1trytommeIfeelmvright collarbonesnap,mvrightshoulderpopasiftheeavehasmyownpastscaledup insideit,rememberingthetimeIbroke bothafewyearsbackonthesoccerpitch.

Wewereup2-1.Theotherteamhated that.Weweregoingtotheplayoffs.The otherteamhatedthat.Iwasdribblingthe hallwhenIgotcrunched. Myshoulder dangledlikeaseagull'sbrokenwing.

Iinchforwardandthenexperiencea freefallintoblacknessuntilIthudonto thedenfloor.

Thethrillofcasing,likewriting,is findingthatvirginpassage,aplacewhere noonehasbeenbefore.

“IguessI’malittleweird,but1likethe lifeinthecase-bats,mushrooms,spi¬ ders,”Hendricksonsas's.“Mainecases havemans'interestinglifeforms,in¬ cludingsalamandersandfrogsinEn¬ chantedCave,theuniquemushrooms growinginthezMlagashIceCases,the luminousmossfoundinseveralDowncastcaves,orthelittlebrownbatsfound winteringinseseralofMaine’sCases.”

Bbbuupphbbuuppbbbuupp.Aly flashlighttumblesontothefloorand shutsoff.Breathingquickly,Isearchfor thelight.Imnotsurewhat’smore desperate,myimaginationormshands andfeet,lookingforthelight.Fumbling withthelight.1suddenlyrealize-

absurdlylate-that1amdefinitelya visitorhere,uninvited,unwclcomed,and unwanted.Iamfromaway.Kneesand knucklespressingintothedirtcarpet, Icrawl.

“Myadviceis,don’tthinkwhileex¬ ploringthedarkness,”Hendricksonsays. “Whenyougiveyourselftimetothink, that’swhenclaustrophobiasneaksupon you.Consideronlyyournextmove,the nextplacementofyourfootorarm.The was'IcantellI’vebeeninthezoneis when1exitapassagewithbruisesorcuts thatIcan’tremembergetting.It’sbecause Iwastooconcentratedonthepassage.

“Trynottothinkabouthowsmallsour spaceis,”hesays.“Closeyoureyesand it’llgetbigger.”

Iamsqueezingmyeyelidsshut.Inthe perfectdarkness,lightre-entersasa wistfulmemorynowofmydrive throughCamdentowardthishole.Blue tidesspritz,astheyarerippedapartbythe rockycoast.Asalts'mistwhipsoffthe svater,blowingnapkinsoffthepatio tables.Alads’grabsherhatasitwhirlsoff her,agameofcatchwiththewind.The lightsnapsoff.AndnowIfeelmyself cementedhere,tieddown,unableto wardoffthespidersclosinginonme. Imustcalmdown.Islosvmybreathing; inthroughthenose,outthroughthe mouth;inthroughthenose,outthrough themouth.Howbigisthiscornerlcss roomIhavefalleninto?Isitup.Likea cameraonatripod,mychinrestson myfoldedarms.Ms’eyesbecomemy shutterandaperture,exposingtherest ofmetoaworldonlyaluckyfess-getto experience...alive.

Ireturnfromtheheartoftheearth,my headpounding.1lowoddtocallthis rehearsalfordeath“apopulardiversion.”

Thisistoodangeroustobecalledasport. Mysincererecommendationisneverto caveunaccompanied.Andnevertocave inacrowd.Justdon’tcave,okay?

Iwigglebackthroughtheblackchan¬ nel,imaginingbeingstuckjustinches fromthesurface.Butthenthelight flashesinlikeamurderer’sknife.The lightglowsinmymindwithpersistence ofvision.

Myheadpopsoutofthecaseintowhat poetBarbaraLefcowitzcallsPerseph¬ one’s“riskofgreen.”

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DuteFrancisdidn’tsetouttotempt fate.Butwhenyou’rehauledinto themiddleofamercilessbayvou’re leftwithlittlechoice.

IlieSipavikresidentwasina16-foot speedboatwithhisuncleandafriend manningthewheel.“1lewaspullinga deadlystunt,”Francissays.“Wecallhim ‘Selin’[aStarTrekcharacter]becausehe’s nuts.1Icknewexactlywhathewasdoing.

"We’dbeenoutallday,at1leadIhar¬ bour,fishing.Wesloppedtocatatthe canneryinFastportthenheadedbackout. Itwasnownightfallandafullmoon, crystalclear.”

That’swhen"Selin,”insteadofskirting aroundthegreatsty,drovestraightintoit.

"Ileshuttheboatoff,”Francisrecounts, “andIcouldfeelthistremendoussurgeof fear.TheSowwassobigthewaterlevel startedtocomeupoxerourboat.Then theboattippedup.Ithappenedso

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theoryouthere. It'sactually happening..."

quickly.Iwasgoingtograbthelifejacket andjustjumpoverboard.WlietherIdied ornotIwasgoingtotry.Westartedreally slow;theninnotimeweweredowna footorso.Andspinningfaster.Then lower.1wasinpanic.”

Francisdescribesthewhirlpool’ssound as“hugeandmonstrous,likeafreight traincombinedwiththunderanda subway,”andthesmella“refreshingfull

moonair,reallythick,almostlikeafog, butyoucan’tseeit.”

Beforetheboatcouldfillwithwater, though,“Selin”crankedtheengineand thecraftshotout.Thatwas15warsago. AnditgaveFrancissuchafrighthe’s neverbeenbacksince.

No,it’snotCharybdis,themonstrous whirlpoolthatnearhgulpeddown Odysseusduringhismxthiealduelwith Scylla.Butitisawhirlpool,allright. TheycallherOldSowandshe’sright hereinMaine.

Whowearsthelaurels?

SomesaxSow.Otherssax;nope,Irvthe MoskstraumenorSaltstraumenoff Norxxax;popularizedbxJulesVernein 20,000I£a^ueskindertheSea.

Technically,ofcourse,theNorwegian poolsare“maelstroms”andnot,likeOld Sow,truemultiple-currenttidalpools.

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Okay,thatstillleavestwoothers-the NandopoolbyJapanandtheCorn’vreckanoffthewesterncoastofScotland. They’renottooshabby,either.Sowhere ranksMaine’slittle-knownwonder? Well,ifit’snotthebiggestintheworld it’sbyfarthebiggestintheWestern Ilemisphere.Eactorinaspringtideand agustywindandyou’vegotyourselfone mammothswirl.

Wewereoutonaboat onedayundertheFDR InternationalBridgeand everythingstarted shaking.Shecallsit theLubecWaltz.

Rawpower

Althoughshewhirlsmorein Canadianwatersthanin zKmcrican,OldSowstretches acrossthePassamaquoddyBayfromDeer Island,NewBrunswick,toMooseIsland, Maine,a.k.a.Eastport,theeasternmost citvintheUnitedStates.Chalkupher uniquehvdrologytoanundersea mountain280feetlong;aseriesofoceanfloortrenches,holes,andvalleys,with some,athighwater,dipping400feet;and twotidesslammingintoeachotherata rightangle.It’stheincomingtide, convergingfromEvodirections,which summonstheawesomefury.Asthebulk ofitsurgesdownfromthenorthendof DeerIslanditcollideswithits counteqxirtsurgingwest.Thenthere’sa thirdconspirator.

“TireSt.CroixRiserhasacurrent comingdown,too,”saysRobertGodfrey, founderofOldSowPublishing.“So there’sthishumongousvolumeofwater andthisrivercomingintoitandthetide comingtheotherway.Therearcallkinds ofcrazycurrentsgoinginevery'direction.

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Theeffectisintensifiedwhenthewater, pouringinat70billioncubicfeet, churnsintothesubmergedmountainas itfloodsrightwardaroundDeerIsland. Bisectingthemountainisa327-foot-long trenchrunningnorthwesterly.

Thedynamicssparksomerealoddities. “Thewaterramsupfrombelow,shoot¬ ing20feetintheair,”Godfrey'says. “Troughsopenupinthewater,almost likeaditch,withsomeamilelong.On itheincomingtidethere’susuallya standingwallofwatercomingoffthe

southerntipofDeerIsland.It’stherefor alongtimeandcangetacoupleoffeet high.It’sprettyamazing.”

'ThekeyplayerhereisDeerIsland Point.Theshoalslopingsouthfromit dropsabruptlyfrom25feetto370. George1larris,retiredfishermanand ownerofEastport’sHarrisPointCabins andMotel,explains:“Theboilsbreakoff theendofthepoint.Inaspringtide, whenyourtidegoeshigheritalsogoes lower,soyougetdoublethevolumeof waterflowingin.That’salotofturbu¬ lence.Windsget20feetlongandfiveto sixfeetdeep.Normaltidesare16to17 feet;extremetidescanreachupto22 feet.Extremetidegoessixorsevenknots. Thenitcollideswiththeothertide. That’swhenthiswholething’sboiling, likeinagreatbigboilingpot.”

Onehasaboutthreehourstoviewthe whirlpool.Peaktimeistwohourstohigh water.Wliathappensontheebb?Not much,Ilarrissays.Outtideisnaptime forthemoods’seahog.

ToseeSowathermostcantankerous, coincideyourtripwithaspringtide. Springtidesoccurtwicemonthly,with thenewandfullmoons.Inastronomical jargonthisisknownassyzygy,whenthe moon,sun,andEartharcroughlyina straightline.(Perfectsyzygyproducesan eclipse.)ThecloserthemoonistoEarth, thegreaterthetideandstrongerthepull. Andwhentheystartfloodingit’snotonlv OldSowthatrufflesmariners.

“Thiswholeareajusthasaterrific amountofwatercomingin,”Godfrey says.TakethecoastaltownofLubec,a fewmilessouthofMooseIsland.‘Tvc noticedsomeoddcurrentsinthatareacurrentsgoingupaswellasdownand I’venoticedsomerunningsideways.

BarbaraBarrett,sheteachesatthevoca¬ tionalschool.Wewereoutonaboatone dayundertheEDRInternationalBridge andeverythingstartedshaking.Shecalls ittheLubecWaltz.”

Godfreyknowsthetideswell.Heought to.WTcnhe’snotprogrammingdata¬ basesandmanagingvariouswebsites, he’spublishinglocalmapsandtide tables.In1991,ayearafterheandwife LindamovedfromIndianatoEastport, hefoundedtheOldSowWhirlpool Survivors’Association.

Tmtheself-appointedpresidentfor life,”Godfreychuckles.“It’saveryloose organizationwithwelloverahundred members.Youdon’thavetohavealife-

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threateningexperiencetobeasurvivor.1 starteditbecauseIwascuriousaboutthe whirlpoolmyself.”

Socuriousheconductedhis ownresearch.

hedimensionsofOldSowdiffer E,Idependingonthetide.Thedepth Ihasbeensaidtorangefrom12to40 feetandthediameter300to500feet. Godfrey,seekinghisownfigures, estimatedthediameterfromanaerial photographhetookin1995.Inthe pictureisabeacontoweratthesouthern tipofDeerIsland.zXftersnappingoffhis shot,heboatedovertotheislandto measurethediameterofthetower.Withthemeasurementhethenextrapolated thesizeofthewhirlpool’calculatingitat morethan250feet.“It’/notperfectly circular,’4henotes.M

FromwhericeWthe

dictionaryfortheWaponahki people(a.k.a.Wabanaki,mean¬ ing“PeopleoftheDawn”—see

Summerguide 2003). He’s presently j wrappingupthesecondvolume.

“Lomelistuns,"Davidenunciates. “That’sthePassamaquoddywordfor ‘fish’smouth.’Whenthewhirlpoolopens upyouseeahole,likeafish’smouth.It’s likeafunnel.”

Noonecansayforcertain,though, whereOldSowderivesitsanglicized name.“I’vetriedtofindout,butthere doesn’tseemtobeanydocumentation,” •Godfreysays..

Somecontendthatupclose,itsounds likeagruQtihg7snortingpig.Godfrey', however,offershisowntheory'.£

“It’sprobably,acorruptionoftheword 0‘sough’[originallypronounced‘suff], ‘Sough’hastwodefinitionsr.oneisa drainandtheotherisasuckingsortoL namebubbleup?

Forthousandsofyears^ofcourse,OldScottishandintheearly,dayspeople SowwasknownbyanenJfrcly’differenpJ^spellwell.Asaresultit’sgot. moniker.JustaskDute’sfather,David^4jjL/these,‘piglet$,}thesmaQjvhirlpopkthat" Francis’curatoroftheWaponahki'Mi^^^^^fspin’bff'the‘mother’pooland]wliirlT; 1around.Theystartupandvanish

& > sound.SomebodywroteitinEnglishon uminSipayik.DavidhasypentthelastJS'r fouryearscompilinga27.000-word^j^ continuingsortofthing.”

.founl.Lobster,youknow? somepeopledo

Wishyouwerehere.

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MvthOne:Ifyougetstuckinthemaw, vou’respiralingtothebottom.

“Itwon’treallysuckyouin.”Godfrey explains.“It’snotreallyadrain.Butitcan pullyoudown.There’sadepressionand aswirlandifyoudon’thavegoodcontrol yourboatmighttipandfillwithwater.” Advicefortheill-starredseagoer?“Don’t fightit.Keeptheboatupright.Oh,and havepower.It’snotagoodplacetobe withoutamotor.”

MythTwo:OldSowswirlsallthetime. Godfrcvcallsthisonea“tragicomedy.”

“Somepeoplefeelthewhirlpoolis lisped,”hesavs.“Toadegreethey’re right.Theholeonlyopensupocca¬ sionally,butpeople’sconceptionis they’regoingtosecthishugefunnel.I usedtowalkuptothenorthendof WaterStreetandseevisitorslookingforit anytime,evenindeadwater.Butit’s tidal.Peoplecomeandfrequentlyit’sthe wrongtime.Thetide’snotthesame evervday,andthetidalrangechanges. It’snotlikeOldFaithful.”

MvthThree:It’sabehemoth.

Umm...noteveryday.

“Itisn’texactlywhatyoupictureinyour mind,”Ilarrissays.“Mostpeoplethink it'sabigwhirl,goingandaroundand around,buteverythingchanges.The whirlsgoaroundthendisappear."

Infact,ifit’sneitherstormynorspring tideyoumightn’tseeagiantwhirlatall. Youinsteadgettheendlesslittle“piglet” whirlpoolsthatgapeopeirforafew secondsthengopoof.

Theroughshodkiller

"Inaspringtide,whentheboilsbreak, itcanthrowtheboatupifyou’renot pavingattention,”Ilarrissays.“Wayback beforetheyhadpoweralltheyhadwere sails.Idon’tknowhowthehelltheyever gotbvwithsails.”

Sometimestheydidn't.

Accordingtolocalsources,OldSowis responsibleforatleastsevendeathsand scoresofsunkenwatercraft.

Thefirstdocumentedfatalities,submit¬ tedbvDeerIslandresidentGlenna Barteau.occurredDecember31.181. TheCityGazetteofSt.Johnliststhe drownedas“1Icnry1lall,merchant. MooseIsland;JamesStewart,merchant. St.Stephen;GeorgeVeith,Commis¬ sariatofSt.Andrews...caughtinawhirl¬ poolnearDogIslandwhileleaving MooseIsland."

OnMarch28,1830,Robert, William,andJamesStover-all sonsofaDeerIslandwidow-met theirdemiseafteratwo-weekfishingtrip. TheEastportSentinelstatesthemen wereheadinghomewith“aloadofcod fish”duringastrongwindand “unusuallyfull”tide.Thegalesforced themtotakeadiagonalcourse.Although experiencedboatmen,theymisjudged thedistanceandtheiropendual-mast vesselwaspulledstraightintothevortex.

'"I'heyweremygreat-grandmother’s brothers,”saysJoyceKinney,Eastport historianandauthor,“'lirebodieswere "There'susuallya standingwallofwater comingoffthesouthern

tipofDeerIsland.It's thereforalongtimeand cangetacoupleoffeet high.It'samazing."

neverfound.1obster,vouknow?That’s whysomepeopledon’tliketocatlobster.” OldSowclaimedanothervictim40 yearslater.zAccordingtotheSaintCroix Courier(March30,1871),“amannamed Norwoodwasdrownedfromaboatoff DeerIslandPoint.”1’heNorwood brothers,RobertandAbner,ownedand operatedatwo-mastschoonernamed Quickstep.Thevweretraversingthewaters whenasuddensquallhitandintowhirl theywent.NeitherAbnernorQuickstep waseverfound.Robert,miraculously,still aliveandclingingtoanoar,wasretrieved bytheCoastGuard.

Comparedwiththe19thcentury,only onedeathwasattributedtothewhirlpool inthe20th-andeventhat,reminds Barteau,mighthavebeenfroman “extremewindandhightide."On December2,1912,CecilChaffevwas rowingadinghvfromhisboat-building businessonIndianIslandtohishomein Eastport.zAccordingtotheobituary, Chaffevdrownedafterhisboatcapsized. Hisparentsandfriendswatchedhcljy lesslyonshore.

Phenthere’sthecommunihcollege studentfromNewBrunswickwhose bodywasheduponCarlowIslandinthe early1990s.1le’dbeenoutsailing. Wlretherhewasacasualtyofthewhirl¬ poolorthevictimofanunrelatedmishap nooneknows.

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OneidiosvncrasvofOkiSow,however, isherchoosincss."Wlicnwewerekids weusedtocomeoutinarowboatand goroundandround,”savsIlarris,now 73.“Waterwascoiningupoverthestern. Idon’tknowwhywedidn’tdrown.”

ThetamingoftheSow

Drowningstapereddramaticallyafter theadventofthegasolineengine. Thepowerofpetrolprovedagreat lifesaveroverslow-goingsailsandanustiringoars.Butwhattemperedthe whirlpoolevenmorewastheaborted Passamaqnoddy1’idalProject.

Theaimofthe]>rojcctwastoharnessthe massiveflowofwaterintothebav.After studsingtheconfigurationoftheislands, hvdroelcctricengineerDexterCoopersaw thetremendousopportunitv.SoCooper piquedtheinterestofPresidentEranklin D.Roosevelt,whointurnsenttheArmy Coq»ofEngineersuptoIsastport.(The militarybuildingsstillstandtodav.)A scriesofturbineswasplannedforthe narrowpartofXlooseIsland,andthe powergeneratedwouldhavebeenused locallvaswellassolddownshore.k.astport seemedpoisedforanindustrialfuture. Congressappropriated$10million.

ButinthewordsofCodfrcv.“the projectbecameapoliticalfootballand themonevgotusedforsomethingelse.”

RevitalizingeffortsduringtheEisen¬ howerAdministrationcametonaught. W'hatremainstodavarethethreehvdrodamcauscwavsbuiltinthe1930s.(woof whichformRoute190andconnect EastporttoCarlowIslandandCarlow Islandtothemainland.

“Theforceofthewhirlpoolwasnever asgreataftertheyputthedamsup,” Kinncvsavs.

Bartcauagrees.“Mvdadwascaptainof theEastportEerrvfor25vearsandhad someharrowingexperiences-and Ik knew thetideswell.Ilelosthisdinnerafew times.Butwhenthevputthecauscwavsin ittooksomeoftheferociousnessout.”

Some,mavbc.Butnotall.

Whirlpoolstillpacksawallop

“Itgetsprethcrazyattimes.”savs1,vear-oldCalebLincoln,asummertime residentofEastport.“ListvearIwas goingbvinthemiddleofthedayina little17-footCiastronwhenalittlepiglet sunkdownbesideme.Itmadeafunnel andmvboatslidintothefunnel.Iwent aroundprobablvthreetimesbeforeit

poppedmebackup.Itscaredme,yeah.”

ItwasgoosebumpcitvforDavidSousa andwifeRuth.'Ihreevearsago,theCal¬ aisresidentwasglidingacrossthehasin his19-footinboard-outboard.1lissister andhertwochildrenwereintheboatas well,uponvacationfromSanford.Sousa admitshewas"showingoff'-untilOld Sowstartedshowingoff,too.

"Itwasagoodfloodtide,and[the whirlpool]wasthebiggestI’dseenout there,”Sousasays.“It’sseldomyouseeit spinninglikethatandfullofdebris... biglogs,sheetsofplvwood,oldfishboxes. 1wasjustgoingtoteasethekids,soI nosedtheboatinthere.”

Thentheunthinkablehappened:“It stalled...thevdothatinreversesome¬ times.[Thewhirl]pulledusrightintoit andjustkeptspinning.Wehadtogo aroundahundredtimes.Ididn’tthink I’dbeabletogetout.”

Sousa’swoesdidn’tendthere."W’hcnI wenttostarttheboataloggotstuckin thepropeller.Itwasembarrassing.The noseoftheboatwas25or30degreesin theairsotheyhadtoholdmebymvfeet whileIgotitout.Itwasaninteresting experience,nodoubt,butoneIwouldn’t wanttorepeat.”

Thenthere’sthetaleofthekavakers. Newlywedsthevwere,whopaddleda trifletooclosetothebeast.“Thehusband gotout,”Godfrevsavs.“Notthewife.She hadtoberescued.”

Butit’snotjustkavaksandspeedboats thatcanheapuptrouble.1larrissavs evenbiggervesselsaren'timmune.Like theIhmdyStarII,the55-footcrfrom DeerIslandwhoseloadofsalmonsmolts shiftedinMay1995.Luckilythethree menaboardwererescued.

“Shewasstackedup.20or>0tons,” Harrissays.“Shebitthetide[between DeerIslandPointandIndianIsland], tookintoomuchwater,sunk,andslid downintoit.Ilereitwasn’tsomuchthe whirlpoolastheIides.Irememberanoth¬ erboatabout15yearsago,a400-foot freightergoingtoEuropeorsomewhere, loadedwithwood.Itlost100cordof woodoffthatdeck."

1hepointis,savsGodfrev,vounever knowwhattoexpect.“It’sbizarre,unpre¬ dictable,theepitomeofchaos.The chaostheorvisn’tjustthcorvouthereitsactuallvhappening.”

Formoreinformation,visitGodfrcv’s website,soontobeupandrunningat www.oldsovvwhirlpool.com.

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Unfortunately,understaffmg,overpop¬ ulation,inadequatefunding,andallega¬ tionsofabuse,neglect,andevendeath haveplaguedPinelandthroughoutits history.ThedecisiontoclosePineland camein1996,andby2000theestate hadfallenintogreatdisrepair. ButthememoryofPinelandisnot withouthope.RuthFuat,EventPlanner atPineland,hadplavcdpianoatthe

chapelwhentheschoolwasopen.

“Peoplegavealot,”shesays,“morethan whatwasaskedofthem...it'sgota historythat'sstillimportant.”

OwenWells,presidentofLibra Foundation,drovetoPinelandinthe winterof2000.“Whatamess,”W'ells thought.Butsomewhereinthebcautv ofthelandscapeanddeplorablestateof thebuildings,W'ellssawthepotentialfor amulti-puqiosccomplexstrategically locatedbetweenPortlandand Lewiston/Auburn.W'hatwasoncea daylongtripbycarriagetoPortlandnow takes15minutesontheMaine'Iumpikc. OctoberCorporation,thereal-estate armofLibraFoundation,purchasedthe 2750acresforroughlySImillionfrom theStatein2000.Theprojectcost "about$50million,”accordingtoW'ells, expecting50%occupancybySeptember.

CBRichardlfllis/1'hcBoulosCompany managesthepropertyandleasesoffice spaceforSI2persquarefoot:muchless thantheaverage$14to$20intheOld Portandothercomparablelocales.

"WheneverIgoback.I'mamazedat whathasbeenaccomplished,”W'ellssavs. W'iththedistanthumofelectricsaws, thestate-of-the-artfacilities,andpeople leavingasfreelvastheyentered,one wouldneverguessthisnowmodern estatehassucharemarkablehistory. Abuhearstories...Butthatdoesn't bothermeatall,"saysLewis,asliefires uphismowerandgoesbacktowork.

WOOL CAPES & SHAWLS

Everyoneofthefinewoolensmadeby Gasco 73ay WoolWorksreflectsthequalityandstylepossible only when a piece is individually hand-crafted. 100% Virgin Wool. Made in Maine. ComevisitourretailoutletfeaturingCapes,Shawls, Blankets,Hats,Scarves,andSweaters.Plusourexclusive collectionofWoolCoatsandJackets-withhandsewn appliquebvVictoriaThomasDesigns.

inPortland’sOldPort atthefootofExchangeSt. Phone:879-9665

MaineTourmaline.. October 1972. two men searching an abandoned mining site in western Mainefoundovertwomillioncaratsofgemtourmaline,aquantitysovastwearestillcuttinggemstoday.

WeareprivilegedtohavetheopportunitytoworkwithMaine'sgemminers,ourstate’sfinestcutters,andsomeofthemost exquisitegemtourmalineeverdiscoveredinlusciouspinks,livelygreen,andrichrareblues.Eachmonthourcraftsmen completedozensofdelightfulnewdesignstoaddtoourcollectionofoverfivehundredpiecesofMainetourmalinejewelry. We'dlovetohaveyouvisitusintheheartofPortland'sartdistrict.OpenMondaythroughFriday.9amto4:30pm.Thursdaytill 8:30pm...seeyousoon.

hestaircaseisauniqueelement inahouse.Itisverticalwhen mostotherspacesarehorizontal. Wewalkfromroomtoroom, oftenwithnochangeinceiling height.Butwhenwegettothestairs,wegoupordownandthespadeexpands aroundus.

MattElliott,fromElliott,Elliott,and NoreliusArchitectsinBlueHill,has .beenrefininghisideasaboutstairsfor manyyears.Hisstairsconnectfloorsin unusualwaystomakethespacesaround themmoreinteresting.IntheWhite HouseonDeerIsle,Elliottcombines staircaseanddiningspacetospell¬ bindingeffect.

Forstarters,thediningroomisdouble height,locatedinthecenterofthehouse betweenthekitchenandlivingroom.The extraheightisapleasantsurprise,withthe stairsdrainatizingthespaciousnessEliott creates.Runningalongonesideofthe diningroom,thestairsleadtoabalcony lookingdownuponthediningroom. Ascendingthestairs,youmoveboth

r

■’vertically and horizontallythroughthe i||Kdiningroomaslightpoursinfromabove. Hand^ils*simplydetailedinwood, increasethefeelingofwarmth an^Apenhess.

<*•ot^jlassbesidethestairsbringsthe |Toutdoorsintothehouse.Withtheworld £dlqpfnneringaroundyou,youcanlookinto thediningroomononesideandthe

i”outdoorcourtyardonfiveotherside.

■Beautifululteriordetailscompletethe effect*Sc®ncesprovideatmospheric J^htingfromthecolumnsinthefour comersofthediningroom.Cladwith warm,naturalwood,thecolumnshelp definethediningroomwhileproviding structuralsupportforthestairsand balconyabove.Atthetopofthestairs,the balconywidenstomakeroomforalong windowseatwhereyoucanwatchthe actionunfold.Paintedwideplankwood floorsaddanunusualflavortothedesign. Lightincolor,theyhighlightdienatural beautyofthewoodinthehandrails andstairs.

IntheWhiteHouse,MattElliott’sspatial magicisajoytoexperienceeveryday.

• advanced kaircutting

• certified colorist

• vidal sassoon trained

• experienced stqlists from Manhattan & -Boston

• manicures & waxing

47InJid t. 253.8050

Maine’swakeboardingchampionhasadapter!* tokiteboarding,oneofthe world’snewest,mostexcitingsports.

“hiMaui,it'shuge,”explains1999and 2000worldwakeboardchampionC.J. Kelly.“InIlatteras,NorthCarolina,too, becauseofthejetstream.”Notto mentiontheSouthPortlandnative’s homestateofMaine.

"1wassuqrrisedtoseeeightofusatPine Pointonedaylastvear,"saysKellw34. "Kiteboardingiscatchingonhere inMaine.”

ADeeringIlighgrad,Kcllvstartedwake¬ boardingonSebagoIakc10vearsagoat hisfamilv’scamp.Buthewas31beforea friendintroducedhimtopowerkites.

“Wliei!it’stoovvindvtogowakeboard¬ ing,it'sperfectforkiteboarding,"hesays. “Unlikewakeboarding,1don’thaveto buya$30,000boat.Andit’sfree:nogas moneyneeded.”

Ononeofhisfirstkiteboardridesinthe SacoRiverBasin."1gotthekitecaughtin atree,"hesays.“Ittookmethreehoursto untangleit."11clearnedthehardwav thatalthoughfreshwateriswarmer,the beachisideal.

KennebunkBeachisafavoritespot "whenthewindis17-18milesperhour, withwhitecaps.ButI’veevengoneoff thePasternPrombefore-that’sprettygood,"hesays.

ToKelly,kiteboardingislikeanout-ofbodyexperience.

"W’jtf^kiteboardingthere’snoengine running,soit’squietandpeacefulgoing backlmdforthinthemiddleofthe

ocean.It’ssurreal.”

ThepowerkitesKcllvusesare“venstrongandoftenusedforbuggvracing throughthedesert."

"Yonholdontoa30-inchbar.Kite stringsarcattachedtoeachend.Toturn, simplvpullinthedirectionyonwantto go.'lonhaveaharnesstoclipintoifvour handsgettired.”

The“powerwindow”occurswhenthe windisatyourback.

“Whenyoudipthekiteintothepower zone,"Kellysavs,"itsteersjustlikethe handlebarsofabikeasitpullsyou forwardandupintotheair.”

Inathree-hourlessonfor$300,he’ll showyouhowit’sdone.IIeandafriend aretheesteemedandsuntannedfacultv oftheNorthWindsKiteboarding School.Thevmeetstudentsrightonthe beach,usuallyatPinePoint.

“Duringlowtidethere’sabigsandbar thatgoesoutwhereyoucanstandand workwithstudents,"hesaws.“Itsalso realhsafe,withchest-highwater permittingstandingupatanvtime.”

He’llstartyoubyflyinga“stuntkite” onthebeachtogetasenseofthe characteristicsofthekite,wherethe powerzoneis,andhowtogel“neutral." Then,atlowtide,you'lladvancetoa mountainboard,likeabigskateboard butwithbiggerwheelswhilethekite pullsyoubackandforthlonthebeach, finally,youw’orkuptoabiggerkite.

thenfinally,thewater.

It'seasytofindKellywhenhe’ssoaring overthewaterenjoyinghispassion.He’s theonewiththetiny,tinyshadow.

YOU’LL NLVEK RUN OUT OL THINGS TO DO... UNLESS YOU WANT TO

You may get the feeling that Piper Shores was designed with you in mind. It is a community of people who may have retired from their careers, but who certainly have not retired from life. At Piper Shores, you will enjoy your own beautifully appointed apartment home or cottage...many with views of the open ocean or Maine’s woods.

Piper Shores is the only lifecare retirement community in Maine. Lifecare allows you tocontinuelivinganactiveretirementlifestylewithpeaceofmind.Youwillenjoythe comfort of knowing that your personal and health care needs will be taken care of...righthereathome.

Call today to schedule a luncheon tour (by appointment only).

PiperShores

Where There’s Moke To Life

It'sbeen30\earssinceAllhithe Familymadeherastar,butSally Struthershasn’tforgottenhowa careerdisappointmentopenedthedoor forthatoncc-in-a-iifetimcbreak.

Struthers(starringinAlways,Patsy ClineattheOgunquitPlayhousefrom August4-16,withChristaJacksonas PatsvCline)hadbeenbumpedfromthe short-livedTim Conway ComedyIlourin late1970.

“The‘suits’inNewYorksaidmvchar¬ actermadetheshowlookcheap,butthat wasthejoke!”shelaughs."IwastheTim Conway‘dancer.’Theideawasthatthe showwassocheap,heonlyhadone dancerandoneorchestramusician,Art Metrano,whohadnomusicalinstru¬ mentssohehadtohumthescore.SoI wasfired,letgo,relievedofduty.And becausethevletmego.1wasfreetoread forAllIntheFamily.”

Oncecast.Struthersfelt"thrilledtobe onashowwheremvpartlastedmorethan acoupleofweeks.Tome,itwasjust anotherjob.Iwastooyoungandstupidto beintimidatedbytheabundanceoftalent [JeanStapleton,RobReiner,andthelate CarrollO’Connor]1hadaroundme.”

ButthebuzzwasalreadyoutinNix¬ onianAmericathatA//IntheFamilywas controversialstuffandmightbethe lightningrodwithintheedgier,‘new’ CBSlineupthatmidscason.[“They canceledeverythingwithatreeinit. onedisenfranchisedproducergrumbled abouttheshiftinfine.]

SoStrutherstookitinstridewhen, witheightepisodesalreadyinthe canandthefirstshowabouttoair inJanuary1971,“Wewereforewarned wemightbecancelled.Ourdirectortold usthatCBSaffiliatesalloverthecountry weremanningthephonewithextra operatorsandwerepreparedforvery angryphonecalls.Thismaybethelast timeweallworktogether,’hesaid.'We’ll havetowaituntiltheoxernightratings comeinandseehowmanyangryphone callsthereare.We’lleitherhaxeajobor wcwon’t.’”

Theykepttheirjobs,ofcourse,and Struthershadyearsratherthanweeksto establishherselfasatclexisioniconinthe roleofGloriaBunkerStixic.Asherlooks andtalentmatured,sheaddedfilmand stageworktoherresume,includinga well-receivedrunasMissHanniganin bothNewYorkandtouringproductions ofAnnie.Shecontinuestoworkregularly ontelexision,butgetsbackonstage whenexerpossible.

“Ivenexerbeenafraidtogetupinfront ofpeople,”shesays.“It’smvfirstlove,the purestformofperforming.There’sno onetheretosaxeyoubutyourself,While shootingAllIntheFamily[filmedbefore alixestudioaudience]\xerarelyhadto stopforanything.Wexxeresowellrehearsed,wedidn’tmakemistakes."

There’snotmuchroomforerrorinher currentshow,Always,Patsy’Cline,atwowomanextrax'aganzainwhichdevoted fanStruthersbefriendsthelateconnin' superstarwhoselifeandcareerended tragicalkina1963planecrash.

Struthersisonstagexirtuallytheentire time,andlox’csit.She’sbeenperforming theroleoffandonforthepastseven years,andistheprocessofdevelopinga nationaltourfortheshow.

TheOgunquitPlayhouseengagement markshersecondtriptoMaine,herfirst asaperformer,thoughshe’snostranger toPortland-theotherone,inOregonwhereshegrewupandstartedactingin schoolplays.Shecreditsthoseearlyex¬ periencesforhereaseaxx'ayfromthe smallscreen.Butsheunderstandswhv manyoftoday’stclexisionperformers arereluctanttotreadtheboards.

“There’snogoingbackforanothertake orcalling‘line,’”Strutherssays.“Ifyou didn’tstartinthetheater,itcouldbea dauntingprocess.”

ToseeStruthersatworkthissummer,call OgunquitPlayhouseboxoffice:646-5511.

CHEVERUS

The Jesuit College Preparatory School of Maine Whereyoungmenandwomenoftodayarepreparedforthechallengesoftomorrow.

•96%College PlacementRate

•21Honors, 9APCourses

•HighlyRegarded Class"A"sports programsformen and women

AthleticStateTitles

•Nationallyrecognized communityservice program

•Growingmusic, drama,andarts programs

•Multi-milliondollar campusexpansion TolearnmoreabouttheCheverusexperience,contacttheAdmissionsofficeat

THINH THANH VIETNAMESE

RESTAURANT

CongressSquare thePordand Museum Artandthe Sonesw Hoteii 773-2932

Open 7 days a week

MonJavu>W’edned.nLunchlHOam-2'0pm ['’inner4Kpm-9:£\?pm

ThursdaytoSaturdayLunchIMOanMJOpm Dinner4K*pm-10:00pmSunday4'OpmAOCpm MCA1SA AMEX GlaJlv accepted 608CongressStreet,Portland,Maine

TheArmoryRestaurantinthePortlandRegencyHotelSpectacular cuisine,OldPortcharm,&impeccableserviceinanelegantyetcasual) atmospherewVfreshdinnerspecialsfromland&sea.Unforgettable, housespecialties—SeafoodFettuccinew/lobster,shrimp,crab,& mussels;SteakDiane,&BlackAngusSirloin.Alsoopenforbreakfast

TheAudubonRoomattoeImbytoeSeaonRoute77inCape Etizabeth.BreathtakingviewsoftheAtlanticOcean&cutinarymaster¬ piecesfeaturingfreshlocalproduce,nativeseafoodspeciallies,& exceptionalhandmadebreads8<desserts.Grfiedcrab&macadamia encrustedswordfishw/orangepepperbasilcoutis&sauteofMaine lobster&vealonfreshangelhairwfroastedtomatobeuneblanc. PatiodHng&offpremisecateringavalabte.Sereingbreakfastlunch 8 dtanerda» 767-0888.__

BarbarasKitchenandCafe,388CottageRoad,SouthPortland,across fromtoePortlandPlayersTheater,headingtoFortWiliams.Casual creative,&modestlypricedcuisineforintimatedHngbysunfightfor breakfastcandtetightfor(timerVegetarianscansavorourEggplant RavMwithaRoastedRedPepperCreamSauceNYstripsteakwf PortobetoMushrooms&deni-glazeisafavoriteofcarnivores.The,$ rosemaryfocacciaisreasonatonetopayavisit*—OowneastFtfibar avalabte.Reservations767-6313.www.barbaraskitchen.com

BealeStreetBarbeque&Gril-UndertoebridgeInKdghtvfie,So. Portland.Featureshickorysmokedandgrilledmeals,poultry,fish& seafoodas wel ascreativedadylunchanddkmerspecials. Ful barfea¬ turingMainemicrobrewsontap.Reservationsarenotaccepted. Childrenarewelcome.Opena*day,sevendaysaweek.80Waterman■ DeSo.Portland767-0130

Locatedjust20minutesfromPortlandrightonRoute302in Windham,ChariteSeigg'sIstheplacetogotorcasualfiledHng. SlowovenroastedPrimeR8iisavailable7daysaweek.Fresh seafood,mouthwateringsteaks,deMouspastadishesandmuch more,HIourmenu.Oursoups,saladdressingsanddessertsareal homemade,Joinusforearlybirdsorhappyhour.Ortakeadvantageoi‘ ourseniorcitianriscourteveryWednesdayandSunday.Vegetarian (fishesandchklren'smenuavalabteaswei.Havingaparty,useoneofourbanquetroomsandleavetheworktous!Justrecently,the PortMPitssHtnUlaoicriticwrote,"Quitefrankly,ifIcouldaward ! ChariteBelggls10stars,Iwouldl"Stopbyandseewhy!We'relocated' at754RooseveltTral(Route302)Windham.Wnopenfrom11am9pmeverydayandourphonenumberIs892-8595.We'dloveto seeyou!

TakeadvantageofBstarchefCariAndersonscreativetouchesatCafe StroudwaterattoeEmbassySuitesHotelWithanemphasisonMabie nativeseafood&primecutsofbeef,CafeStroudwaterofferseclectic bistro-stylecuisine&avarietyofselectfinewines.Foramostunique dHngexperience,reserveapieceatPortland'sonlychefstable,where you&yourguestswfibepamperedbyChefAnderson&Nsstaff wMeenjoyingaBooureemealpreparedesp.foryou.Breakfastlunch, &rimerdaily.CalforInformationregardingHoMayGrandBuffets. Majorcreditcards,reservationssuggested.775-0032.

VwcanlbeatthelocationofOiMBohFloatingRestaurantat25Long WharfoffCommercialStreetforfabulouswaterviewsofPortland Harbor.Escapefromthehustle&bustleofthecity.Watchtheboatsgo oy.ayoynesnMamenosieryear-rounc,snaa,seasooooisnes,« more.Open7daysaweekfrom11am-11pm.CNUranSmenuavaiabte.Fordrinks&atightermenu,tryourPortsideLounge.772-2216.

RatixeadCompany,votedPortlands"BestNewRestaurant*Isserving aunrowinningannaturalnauxeaupizza,Owedinawooo-nreosannen oven.RelaxandenjoytoeshowastoeRatbraadcrewprepares,bakes andservesyour.flatbreadfromanopenkhdien,placedintoemiddte oftoetBningroom.LocatedIntoeOldPort,onthewater.Inabeautiful wharfbuidingoverlookingtoeCxsaiBayFerrydock.OpenMonthru Sun11:30todose.MC,Visa,AMEX.

CornsvisitourcountryvfiagecatekitoeheartofFalmouth,offeringa uniquecasualdHngexperience.DinnerIsservedWednesdaythrough Saturdaybeginningat5.FavoritecasualFrenchentrees,steakand fries,chickancordonbleu,dinnercrepesandsalmonprtwencalare offeredalongMtocroissantandbaguettesandwiches,supersatads■ andAmerica'sfavoritehamburgers,petiteorgrandeportionsareavalableBraekfastandlunchserveddailyfrom8until2Designyourown

’omelette,quichecrepesandsoulleealongwithfrenchtoastbeigiaif wafflesandPancakesarealhomemadeandservedbeautifulywith careInourcolorfulcateatmosphere.FulbarandwineIstavallabte. '9 ViseMastercard,DinersClubandAMEXaccepted.190USRouteOne' FalmouthTelephone207-347-5631

DeepintoeheartpttoemysteriousWoodfordsareaat540Forest ArenueIstoeGreatLostBeat;whereyoulfindafulbarfeaturingover i50draughtbeers,predominantlyfromlocalmicro-breweries. Accompanyingthemisanenormousmenuw/everythingfromsoups, ;salads,&sandwichestovegetarianHems&steaks,aswelasalarge vegetarianselection&toebestnachos8>buffalowingsintown. Discoverwheretoenativesgowhenthey’rerestless!Serving 1130am-l130pm7days/week.772-0300.VisitusotHkieat www.greatlostbear.com

JamesonTavernconsistsoftwowelcomingparts,acasualbar& lounge&amoreformaldiningroomeachofferingacomfortableplace foreasydining.Thebuidingisthesiteoftoesigningoftoeconstitu¬ tionfortheslateofMabiewhenitbrokeawayfromMassachusetts. Classicpreparationsservedinagraceful&elegantsettingmakethe JamesonTavernafineretreatfromfrenziedoutletshopping 115MainSt,Freeport,865-4196.Crectitcardsaccepted; reservationsrecommended.

lt!s"MextotheMax!*atMargaritasMexicanRestaurants&Watering Hole!TwogreatlocationsInPortland,othersInLewiston,Augusta, Orono&Portsmouth.Margaritasservesup"oversized*meals& cotossai-sizeddrinks!There'Salwaysfreehotchips&salsa,&down¬ rightlegendarymargaritas,&thehousespecial^istoesizzkngtajtta! HappyhourM-F,4-7pm,freehotappetizers.InPortlandat242St JohnSt,UnionStationPlaza.874-6444&11BrownStneartoeCMc Center,774-9398.LunchatBrownStFridays«W.

Maria’sRistorante,esti960byowner/chefAnthonyNapoitano,offers PortlandsfinestItalancuisinewithaverygoodHakanwineselection. Spacious,beautiful,Italandecorateddiningrooms.Privaterooms S’avalabteforlargegroups.Vealsaltlmbocca,fettucHtoscano,zuppa depesos.ClassicItalandesserts,Antoonylsownpistachiogelato. Lunde$5-88,Tu-F,1130am-2pm.Dinner89-818,Tues.-Sat from5pm.337CumberlandAve,freeparkingavalabte. X Pleasecati772-9232.

ThePapperctobisaprize-winningrestaurant("BestVegetarian*& "BestValue"inFrommersGuidetoNewEngland)featuringcreative worldcuisine.Itsblackboardmenutypicafiyfistsfivevegetarian,three fish,&threemeatentries,includingasuperborganicbeefburger. Pepperduboffersretaxed,colorfulunusuaflyaffordableliningontoe edgeoftheOldPortwfeasy,freeparking&goodwines&beets.Open nighUyat5pan;cred#cardsaccepted.78MiddleStreelnearFranMn Artery.772-0531.

SnowSquatrestaurantvotedafavoritebythelocals;"Yougotta,try therestaurant.SucculentDucktwoways.LargeLobsters,Grfied Atlanticsalmonwithfrizzledleeks,BakedHaddock,andMaineCrab cakeswithGrainmustardAioli,arestandoutsonourwideranging menu.DinnerisservednightlyLunchMondaytoFridayandSunday brunch11am.to1pm.SundayDinnerfrom12noonto8p.m.Ei#y ourcozyfiresidelounge,featuringalightermenuorthefulltinner menutorcasualdining.Privateroomstoaccommodate100. Reservationarealwayswelcomeatwww.snowsquail.comor799-2232

WokInnSzechuan,Hunan,Cantonese&ThalExcetientfood,fastand affordableChoosefrommorethan130detictousmenuitems.Eatin ortakeoutOedverytoCapeElizabeth,Cumberland,,Falmouth, Gorham.Portland,Scarborough,SouthPortland,Westbrook, YarmouthHours:Sun-M1130am-930pm,Th11am-11pntF-Sa 11m-2am.1209ForestAre,Portland.797-9052or797-9053

Woody'sBarandGrill43MiddleStPortland.Servingcreative, fastfoodcuisine.Featuringlocalnaturalbeefandchicken,anda focusonfreshlocalingredients.Makesuretotrythealready famous"WoodyBurger",andthesoontobefamousRshTacos. Oakyspecials,includingnaturalsteaks,vegetarianandvegandish¬ es,soups,andseafood.Thereisagreatselectionoffoodfriendly beerandwine.There'salsogelatoandotherfreshdeserts. W0ody)sservesthisallupinarelaxed,cozy,andcasualatmos¬ phere."AburgerjointInthebestsenseoftheword."Portland PressHerald.OpenforlunchTuesdaythruFriday.Dinnernightly TuesdaythruSaturday.Call(207)253-5251Checkusoutat: www.woodysburgers.com

restaurant review

wAA^AnI R£STA^AnIT

IamMaineisjoltingKittery’Outlet ■shoppersonRoute1withtasty vibrations.Revampingaformer Germanrestaurant-theseriocomic clashofFranconianbeamsandJamaican bannerslendstestimonytoachanging world-JamMainegreetsdinerswitha sampler($14.75)sizzlingwithalloftheir appetizers,includingTrelawnyJerk Wings($5.75),StampandGoCodfish Fritters($5.95),CoolRunningsCoconut Shrimp($8.45),FireBunJerkShrimp ($8.35),Festivals($2.65),andJerkPork ($9.60entree);it’sanincredibledeal. Theshrimparelargeandflavorful-the bestwe’vehad.Thesubtle,hotflavorsof theJerkwingsandporkplaywellagainst theFestivals,deejj-friedcornbreadtwists, witheverythingenhancedbythesmoky' barbequesauce(wegobbledup3 ramekinsfull).Thecodfishfritterssporta lightcrustopeningtodelicateflavorsoffish andseasonings. Nextwedove intoOldHarbour, EscovichRedSnapperservedwithrice andpeas,vegetables,andsweetplaintains ($13.95).Anotherwinner!’Iliefishis lightlybrowned,thentoppedwithdelec¬ tablevegetables(greenbeans;red,yellow andgreenpeppers;snowpeapods;onions; andcabbage)simmeredinxinegarand herbs.Thericeand“peas,”amoundof fragrantricedottedwithredkidneybeans, jumpedonourplatesbesidetiresucculent sweetplaintain.z\hostofuniquebever¬ agesbeckons;thesorrel($3.75)captivated us.Rich(blood)red,slightlytartwithhints ofginger,ahomebrewmadefromthe driedflowerofthisplantthatbloomsonly inDecember,itisthemoststirring, memorableMaine-madedrinkwe’ve encountered(watchout,Moxie),remi¬ niscentofgranny’sdandelionwine. JamMaine:wonderful,deliciousfun.

THE BOAT SCHOOL

Since1969

Turnyourloveforboatsandthingsbeautifulintoanexcit¬ ingcareerinboatbuildingandmarinemechanics,zl.vpart oftheMaineTechnicalCollegeSystem weofferone-year certificateprogramsandtwo-yearAssociateDegreepro¬ grams in Boat Building Technology and Marine Mechanics.TheBoatSchoolisMaine’smostaffordable, andmostcomprehensiveboatbuildingprogram.

207-454-1000•www.wctc.org•16DeepCoveRoad•Eastport,Maine04631

•2-and3-bedroomhomeswithlimitless optionstocustomize

•250-acrenatureconservancy

•Scottish-stylegolfcourse,clubhouse andpub

•Cross-country'skiingandhikingtrails

•Swimmingpool,tennis,fitnesscenter

•Startinginthelow200s

Come see our model today! 2hoursnorthofBoston

30minutesnorthofPortland

15minutesfromFreeportshopping 10minutesfromthecoast 5minutesfromBowdoinCollege

Salesofficeandmodelsopen 7daysaweek:Callforseasonal hours 866-854-1200

Travelingan1-95NorthorSouth,take theTopshamexit(24Noith/24ASouth). Turnright(east)towardBrunswickon Route196;at5thstoplightturnleft, followsignstoSalesOffice.

[(HSUM. MOXI www.highlandgrecnmaine.com

'^JdieArtofFine RentalLivingHasArrived

RiverPlacefeaturesinclude:

•Central air conditioning

•Elevators

•High ceilings

•Private decks & patios

•In-home laundry with full size washer & dryer

•High speed internet connections

•Optional covered parking

•StateoftheartFitnessCenter

•Waterfront Clubhouse, Pool & Tennis Court

•Residents' Media Room & Business Center

• Boat dock for Kayaks & Canoes h/ JMiiq at the

LocatedonPortlanc HarborinSouth Portland,RivcrPlaa• offersspectacular sunsetsoverthewa anddramaticviews! ofthePortlandskyljj

Inaddition,the136< waterfrontapartme। offerthemostattrac featuresandameniP ofanyrentalcommu inMaine.

Tenspaciousfloor plansfrom943to1squarefeetofliving spacetosatisfythe mostdiscerningof individualneedsan lifestyles.

Models now avaih Callforaperson showing today

1RiverPlaceDrh

SouthPortland,Mi

207.767.0900

www.riverplacebyram

OnAugust16,aweebito’ScotlandwilldescendonThomasPointBeach tocelebratethe25thanniversaryoftheMaineIlighlandGames.Anesti¬ mated/3ClanandScottishSocietieswillbethere,makingthisthe biggestone-dayScottisheventintheNortheast.Bringyourbathingsuitand yourBayCityRollerstapeswithyou.Really,mate,howmanyScottishgames offeroceanswimmingwhilewatchingthepipebandsmarchbv?

Men,ladies,andjuniorswillcompeteintheCaberToss,PuttingtheStone, TossingtheSheaf,theRollingPinToss,andtheHaggisIhid.Onthemore gracefulside,theHighlandDancingCompetitionwillincludetheIlighland Bling,SwordDance,SeannTriubhas,ScottishLilt,FloraMacDonald'sFancw Sailor'sIlornpipe,andIrishJig.Throughoutthegamestheflavoroftraditional highlandfoodwillsweepthroughtheairbeneathtallpinesandacrossasandy beach.It’sacryingshamethattheMaineFestivalisnotbeingheldherethis year,sothismaybeyouronlychancetovisitthisparkwiththousandsofpeople. Gatesopenat8a.m.Forinformation,call688-4483orvisit www.mainehighlandganies.org.

TheAtlanticOakesBy-The-Sea

Alfredlesti'alDays.Alfred.ThisfestivalonJuly ISand19featurescraftshows,demonstrations,and someofthebestchowderaround.Nationally acclaimedkidentertainerRickCharetteisscheduled toappearonSaturdayJuly19.324-5872.

BangorStateEair.Bangor.July25toAugust3in theheartofMaine,thisyear'sfairfeatures4-H shows,craftandartexhibits,photocontest, grangeexhibits,rides,games,andIive entertainment.947-5555.

BathHeritageDays,Bath.HeadovertoLiberty ParkforBath's30thannualmaritimeheritage celebration.Thefive-dayfestivalincludeslotsof entertainment,attractions,andspecialevents includingroadraces,aparade,anarts&crafts show,acarnival,andfireworks.July3-7.443-9751.

BatesDanceFestival.BatesCollege.163Wood Street.Lewiston.TheBatesDanceFestival, northernNewEngland'sleadingcontemporary danceproductionandtrainingprogram,presentsits 21stanniversaryseasonfromJuly19toAugust16. featuringworksbyworld-classchoreographersand imaginativenewcomers.Artists,students,and audiencessharetheirknowledgeandinspiration throughworkshops,jams,discussions,informal showings.andperformances.Thefestivalfeatures VincentSekwatiMantsoe.whowillfusehis ancestraltraditionswithaninspiredblendofAsian andEuropeandanceelements;Mantsoeperforms threebreathtakingsoloswithhypnoticintensity.The websiteliststheeventsinthefestival.786-6381or www.bates.edii/dance-festival.xrnl.

BelfastBayFestival.Belfast.FromJuly16-21.the oldesteventinBelfastprovidesanopportunityto relax,playbingo,enjoyfairrides,andwatchthe fireworks.ThisyeartheMainebandDakotaissetto

openforthesouthernrockgroupTheMarshall TuckerBand.338-5719.

Capriccio2003,Ogunquit.The13thAnnual10-day celebrationofthePerformingArtsbeginsonAugust 30andendsSeptember6.Thetown-widefestival includeslivetheater,poetryreadings,afashion show,artexhibitionsanddemonstrations,live music,andthePortlandBallet.Thecelebrationends withtheFestivalofKites,astheskiesabove OgunquitBeachfillwithkitesofeverysizeand color.646-6170.

Central.MaineEggFestival.Pittsfield.FromJuly 17-22,MansonParkcelebratesthetraditionofthe browneggindustry'.forthe28thyear.Egg breakfasts,aparade,exhibits,entertainment,street dance,andfireworksarefeatured.487-3535or www.pittsfield.org/eggfes.htni.

27th Annual Common Ground Country Fair. Unity.Atthiscelebrationofruralliving,fairgoers canvisitfannersandtheirlivestock,tastedelicious, Maine-grown,organicfood,andenjoyevening entertainment.SponsoredbytheMaineOrganic FarmersandGardenersAssociation(MOFGA).this fairblendsthebestoftraditionalandmodern-day livinginMaine,demonstratingeasywaysto incorporatesustainablefixingpracticesintoour dailyfives.ItninsSeptember19-20.openingat9 a.m.eachday.568-4142orwww..MOFGA.org.

CumberlandCraftShow.Cumberland.rXugust710bringsMaine’slargestcrafts-onlyshow,with 300+exhibitors.Theshowisopen10a.m.to5p.m. onThursdayandFridayandclosesat4p.m.on Sunday.621-2818.

CumberlandFair.Cumberland.Tire132nd CumberlandCountyFairsponsoredbythe

Sunlightcanmakea timelessdesignlook oldfast.3MScotchtint Window Film helps protectaroomandits furnishingsfromthe sun'sharshultraviolet raysandintenseheat.

CumberlandFarmersClubtakesplacefrom September21-27.Enjoygreatfood,ridesand games,crafts,andexhibits.Stickaroundforthe dailyeveningentertainment.939-8423or »»vv.cumberlandfair.com.

11thAnnualFestivaldeJoie. Lewiston. BienvenuetothefestivalthatcelebratesMaine’s Franco-AmericanheritageheldontheRiverfrontat RailroadParkinIxtwiston.Thefestivalfeatures internationalmusic,dancing,aparade,andFrancoAmericanculinarydelights.Attractionsincludethe 7thAnnualInternationalFiddlers’Contest,acrepeeatingcontest,andwalkingtoursof“LittleCanada.” Entertainmentwillappearcontinuouslyonfour differentstagesandrangefromGizfcleLalibertd (Quebec’sMissCountryoftheyear)toMariachi BrassandtheMaineAttractionCloggers.Thereisa shuttleservicetothefestivalfromtheLewiston Mallevery20minutes.August1-3.782-6231or uww.festivaldejoie.org.

FryeburgFair. Fryeburg.NestledinthefoothiIlsof theWhiteMountains,Maine’slargestagricultural faircelebratesdrafthorses,oxen,llamas,and rabbits.TheFiremen’sMusteronthefirstSunday keepsthecrowdcheeringformore;Mondayis Woodsman'sDay;theever-popularSkilletThrow occursonWednesday.Theretiresixeveningshows withnationallyknownperformersinfrontofthe maingrandstand,atnoadditionalchargebeyondthe regularfairadmission.Daytimeentertainmentis offeredatfiveparkswithinthefairgrounds,in¬ cludingDixiejazz,Germanmarchingbands,and youthensembles.September28toOctober5.9353268orfax935-3662or info@irycburgfair.com.

11thAnnualGreatFallsBalloonFestival. Ixwiston/Aubum.FromAugust15to17.New England'slargesthotairballoonfestivaltakesplace indowntownLewistonandAuburn.Food, entertainment,vendors,carnivalrides,balloonrides, parachuters,andparagliderswillallbecelebrating the11thyearofthefestival.Thisyearfeaturesa speciallyshapedAmericanflagballoon.782-2637 orvvvvw.greatfallsballoonfestival.org/contact.

3()thInternationalSeaplaneFly-In. Greenville. Morethan100pilotsfromaroundtheworldwill gatheronMooseheadLake'sMaineInlandFisheries andWildlifeHangaronSeptember4-7.The weekendbeginswithasunsetcmisc,lobsterdinner, hangarparty.Hyingcontests,awardpresentations, andaneveningofentertainmentatSquaw Mountain.Vanserviceisavailablebetweenthe aiiport,lodging,SquawMountain,andseaplane base,withcraftspeoplealongtheroadnearthe seaplanebase.695-2702or www.miHischeadlake.org.

MachiasWildBlueberryFestival..Machias. WashingtonCountywillholdits28thAnnual celebrationofoneoftheworld'ssmallestandbest fruitsAugust15-17.Fridayeveningfeaturesthe homegrownblueberry'musical."TheBlueberry Fairies."SaturdayboaststheblueberryPancake Breakfastandthefive-mileBlueberry'Run.

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Sunday'sBlueberryFestivalWorshipServiceisthe reasonthefestivalwasfounded27yearsago.New thisyear,ashuttleservicewillrunfromtheschtxil complextothetowncenter. 255-4402or(SOO)377-9748or www.machiashlueberrv.com/tmachias.html.

6thAnnualMaineInternationalFilmFestival. Waterville.TheWatervilleOperaHousecelebrates filmmakingfromJuly11-20,withmorethan125 independentfilms,internationalfilms,andfeature filmsshownonfourdifferentscreens.OnJuly12 theMaineFilmOfficewillsaluteMaine'sfilmand videoartistsduringtheannualCelebrationofMaine Filmmakers.Theday-longeventwillincludea Mainescreenwritingsymposium,the26thAnnual Maine StudentFilmandVideoFestival,theMaine Filmmakers’Forum,andtheMainefilmmakers reception.PeterFondaisscheduledtoattendthe festivaltoaccepthisMidlifeAchievementAward. NewthisyearisthefirstannualMaine ScreenwritingCompetition.624-7631.

MaineLobsterFestival. Rockland.Celebrateone ofMaine'soldestfestivalsinits56thyearat picturesqueHarborParkoverlookingbeautiful PenobscotBayinRockland,wherelobsterisking. FromJuly30toAugust3thefestivalfeaturesgreat Maineseafood,aparade,amusementrides,boat rides,demonstrations,waterfrontentertainment,and musicforeverytaste.TheNevilleBrothers,among others,willbeperformingatthisyear'sfestival. 354-8928orttvtw.mainelobsterfestival.com.

MainePotatoBlossomFestival, FortFairfield.The 58thcelebrationofoneofMaine'smostimportant cropsisagainhappeningwithmorethan85events, litisyear’sfestivalintroducestheannual“County BluegrassFestival”fromJuly18-20.Festival favoritesincludetheMainePotatoQueenPageants, localentertainmentunderthebigtop,mashedpotato wresiling,antiquefarmequipmentdisplays,pancake breakfast,chickenBBQ.beansupper,aparade,and fireworks.July11-20.472-3802or www.potatoblossoni.org/liome.htm.

Maine Shakespeare Festival. Bangor.Inits10th yearofpresentingtheoutdoorsummerMaine ShakespeareFestival,thePenobscotTheatre Companywillhaveonlyoneshow. Thet-'cmrcislicks, whichwillopenonJuly25andbeperformedona modifiedschedule.947-6618or www.maineguide.com.

65thNationalFolkFestival. Bangor.Alarge-scale outdooreventpresentedfreetothepublic,the NationalFolkFestivalcelebratestherichnessand varietyofAmericanculture.Featuringabroadarray ofmusicanddanceperformances,workshops, storytelling,parades,dances,craftsexhibitions,and foodways,theNationalFolkFestivalspresent authenticethnicandfolkartists.Audiencesare treatedtoblues,rockabilly,gospel,klezmer.jazz, bluegrass,cowboy,polka,tamburitza.old-time, mariachi,westernswing,honky-tonk,rhythmand blues,andzydecomusicaswellastraditionalmusic anddancefromCajun,NativeAmerican.Celtic.

MiddleEastern,Caribbean.lastAsian. Appalachian.Hispanic.African,andPacificIsland cultures.Familyfolkactivitiesallowkidstoenjoy craftswhileexploringAmerica’srichhistory.There willbeplentyofregionalandethnicspecialtiesto savor.992-2630or(8(XI)91-MOOSEor www.nationalfolkfestival.com.

26thAnnual.NewEnglandzXuctionofzkntiquc (lassieandSpecialInterestVehicles.OwIsHead. Heraldedbythe IlosionGlobe as"maybeoneofthe premieresummereventsNewEngland."this auctionkicksoffwithapreviewonzXugust22and carriesoverintoAugust23attheOwlsIlead TransportationMuseum,where2(X)+classiccars willbeondisplay.8X2-6848.

TheNorthAtlanticBluesFestival. HarborPark. Rockland.ThefestivalonJuly12and13features artistssuchasAnthonyGomes.WillieKentandthe GentsfeaturingPatriciaScott.BubbaIMacBlues Band.BostonBluesExplosion,andOtisRush.For thoseover21,Saturdaynightmarksthe6thAnnual ClubCrawl.Thisyear'sfestivallayouthaschanged toallowforlesscrowdedgrounds.593-1189or www.northatlanticbluesfestiral.coin/index.html.

Outdoor Sporting Heritage Day. Rangcley.This yearHeritageDayhasexpandedtotwofulldays. August12and13.Expenswillbeonhandforaday offishingdemonstrations,programs,andeventsthat celebratetheregion'sfishingheritage,aswellas lecturesaboutenvironmentalconcerns.864-5647

Oxford County Fair, Oxford.September10-13 fairgoersareinvitedtoenjoythearrayoffrxxlwhile enjoying!Oxford.OnSeptember1OthistheMotor BootyAffairfollowedbyWoodmen'sDayon September12.743-9594or www.oxfordcountyfair.com.

Portland Chamber Music Festival. TirePortland ChamberMusicFestivalwilllxcelebratingitsKith seasonthisyearatLudckeAuditoriumonthe

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WestbrookCollegeCampusoftheUniversityof NewEnglandAugust14-23.Thefiveconcerts includetheElizabethReidParadisMemorial ConcertonAugust14andthe4thAnnualSara!)B. MintonConcertonAugust16.featuringthesounds ofMozart's PianoTrioinGmajor andBeethoven's FolkSongs. OnSunday.August17.PeterAskitn willperform GoldilocksandtheThreeHears, and JonDeakwillfollowwith TheUglyDuckling. The secondweekendfeaturesaconcertinhonorofPeter AskitnonAugust21.andBusinessSupportsthe ArtsonAugust23.Eachconcerttakesplacenightly at7:30.(800)320-0257.

Prelude2003. Lewiston/Aubum.Phiskickoff to the FestivaldeJoiebeginsonTuesday.July29,witha concertattheFranco-AmericanHeritageCenterat SaintMary'sonCedarStreet,andrunsthroughthe 31st.Thenexttwoevenings,beginningat5:30.will befilledwithentertainment,sidewalkcafes,and colorfulconcessions,withaparadeonWednesday night.782-6231or www.festivaldejoie.org/prelude.htm

Skowhegan State Fair. Skowhegan.Eventsatthe nation'soldest,consecutivelypresentedfair includetractorpulling,harnessracing,4-H exhibits,ademolitionderby,andthepopularpig scramble.Featuredentertainersthisyeararethe MacMcHaleOleCountryShowandtheAaron TippinsCountryShow’withtheDonCampbell Band.August7-16.474-2947or w ww.skowheganstatefair.com.

Sudbury Canada Days. Bethel.TheBethel HistoricalSociety'sannualheritagefestivalAugust 8-10featuresold-timecrafts,artshow,historical films,children’sparadeandgames,badmintonand croquettournaments,refreshmentsattheMt.Zircon BottleLunchStand,andalogdrivers'beansupper. AllanWhitmore.ChairmanoftheUniversityof SouthernMaineHistoryDepartment,kicksoffwith alectureonEllsworth’sGeorgeWashington Madox.824-2908.

4th Annual Summer Film Symposium. Bucksport.Thisyear'stheme.“TowardAccess. Interpretation,andUnderstanding."features"Along theWay,"invitingeveryoneattendingtoacquire filmfromthetimetheyleavehometotheirarrivalat thearchivesinMaine:checkingoutfleamarkets, antiquarianbookstores,junkcollections.Awards willbepresented.SponsoredbyNortheastHistoric Film,thesymposiumwillbeheldinBucksport's historicAlamoTheatreonAugust8and9. Registrationisrequired.469-0924or www.oldfllm.org.

UnionFair, Union.Theopeningnightofthefair featuresthecrowningofthe44thAnnualMaine WildBlueberryQueenwhothenreignsoverthe4-H shows,cookingcontests,agriculturalexhibitions, harnessracing,andeveningevents.Thelastday hostsacelebrationoftheweeklongfestivitiesas livestockparadethroughthefairnexttothefloats andmarchingbands.ThefairrunsAugust 17-23.785-3281.

38th Annual WCSH 6 Sidewalk Art Festival, Portland.ScenicdowntownPortlandonSaturday. August23.featuresoneofthelargestandlongestrunningone-dayartshowsintheNortheast.On CongressStreet.ParkStreet,andMonumentSquare from9a.m.to4pan.,morethan3(X)NewEngland artiststirescheduledtobringtheirartforalltosee andbuy.828-6666.

9th Annual Windjammer Weekend. Camden. ThelargestsinglegatheringoftheMaine windjammerfleetarrisesinCamdenHarborAugust 29andstaysuntilAugust31.Festivitiesincludea paradeofsail.Hag-raisingceremonies,music, dancing,fireworks,andactivitiesforchildren.2364404.

Windsor Fair. Windsor.OnAugust24theWindsor fairgroundsopensitsgatesforaweekof exhibitions,foods,crafts,livemusic,ridesand games,andthepopular“AppleQueenPageant.” 549-7280or www.windsorfair.com.

Wooden Canoe Festival. Millinocket.Theevents ontheweekendofAugust15-17celebratethe historyandtraditionofcanoemaking.Thisseventh annualfestivalfeaturesawoodencanoeshow,a canoeandboatparade,awoodencanoebuilding display,andmultipledemonstrations.Therewill alsoberecreationalactivitiessuchasfishing, camping,andhiking.723-4443or www.katahdinmaine.com/woodcanoe.asp.

Yarmouth Clam Festival. Yarmouth.OnJuly18. 19,and20theYarmouthChamberofCommerce hostsitssummertimetraditionforthe38thtime. Enjoytheartsandcrafts,games,rides,andfood, especiallytheCLAMS!Freeentertainmentis availableonthreedifferentstagesallweekend includingDevonsquare.theWickedGoodBand, andPortCityJazz.846-3984or www.clamfestival.com.

performance

BatesCollege2003LakesideConcertSeries. Lewiston.TheseriescontinueswiththeDowncast Brass.July24;/z' VeinduNord. July31;Alan ShavarshBardezbanian.Armenian.Arabic.Greek, andTurkishmusic.August7;andtheSaccarappa Boys.August14.786-6255.

Bay Chamber Concerts. Rockport.August highlightsincludeperformancesbytheLos AngelesGuitarQuartet,theButchThompson Trio,andtheBrubeckBrothersQuartet.Joseph SilversteinleadsanensembleintheannualFirst ChairAllStartsConcertsandDaveBrubeck teamswiththeFirstChairstopresentaworld premierework.JudyCollinsperformsSeptember 19and20.236-2823or www.baychamberconcerts.org

Peaks Island Music Association. PeaksIsland. ThePortlandOperaRepertoryTheatre performsonJuly23.August6.andAugust 20.766-3330.

Portland Chamber Music Festival. Ludckc Auditorium,UniversityofNewEngland’s WestbrookCollegeCampus,716StevensAvenue. Portland.ThePortlandChamberMusicFestival celebratesits10thseasonontwoweekends.August 14tol7.andAugust21to23.(8(XI)320-0257 or www.pcmf.org.

ColbyCollege.LorimerChapel.Waterville.The PianoInstituteatColbycelebratesits25thyear includingaperformancebythePortlandString Quartet,July29;andthePortlandStringQuartet WorkshopParticipants’Concerts.August9.8723386orww».colby.edu/spec.prog.

Cumberland County Civic Center, OneCivicCenterSquare.Portland.DavidGrayappearsJuly 19followedbyNellyandtheSt.Lunaticswith specialguests.July23;MarilynMansonwith specialguestChevelle.zXugust16;andDef Leppard,withanopeningactbyRickyWarwick,on August18.775-3458or775-3331or www.theciviccenter.com/events.html.

Friends of the Kotzschmar Memorial Organ. MerrillAuditorium.Portland.The91stAnniversary continueswithperformancesbyJohnWeaver. August5;RogerSayer.August12;JoyceJones. August19;andThomasHeywood.August26.The ThursdayPopsSeriescontinueswithDanBellony. July31;andScottFoppiano,August21.883-9525 orwww.foko.org.

JustFriendsonthePatioatSilly’sRestaurant,40 WashingtonAvenue,Portland.OnJuly23,August 6,andAugust20,saxplayerJoeLink,guitarist PhyllisLeeke.andinvitedguestsperformthemusic ofcontemporarycomposers.773-2523

Merrill Auditorium. Portland.RayCharlesreturns totheMerrillwithspecialguestsonAugust3;and Mary’ChapinCarpenterplaysonAugust9.84208(X)or www.porttix.com.

PortlandOperaRepertoryTheatre.Merrill Auditorium,Portland.ThePortlandOpera RepertoryTheatrepresentsanoriginalproductionof GaetanoDonizetti's Lucia di Lammermoor onJuly 24andJuly26.879-7678or842-O8(X).

Portland Stage Company. 25AForestAvenue. Portland.Thecomicrevue TripleEspresso willrun throughAugust31.(207)774-0465

PortlandStringQuartet presentsaconcertatthe UnitedSocietyofShakersonRoute26inNew Gloucester.July19.926-4597.

St. Law rence Arts anti Community Center, 76 CongressStreet.Portland.Awiderangeofconcerts include"z\NightofNakedFolk."July24;a WMPGBluegrassSpectacular.July28;Slaid Cleaves,August4;ZuluLeprechauns,August9; TurkeyHollow.August10;TheEdithJonesProject. August13and14;SteveGerlach.August16;"5000 StringsoftheSun."August17;MattNewbcr, August21;JosieContiandherMiddleEastern calendar

BellyDanceEnsemble.August22and23;DelRay andSteveJanies,August24;LosFederales,August 29;andJudyNielson,August30.775-5568or wwn.stlaiirenccarts.org

Winter Harbor Theatre Company. St.Lawrence ArtsandCommunityCenter,76CongressStreet, Portland.FoundedbyTessyLeBlancandCaitlin Shetterly,thenewcompanydebutsthissummer, presenting Only We WhoGuardtheMysteryShall He Unhappy, aplaybyTonyKushner,onJuly30 and31; The Pomegranate Seed, aone-womanshow byfolksingerCosySheridan,onAugust7;anda readingofA.R.Gurney’s AncestralVoices, on October21,22.28.and29.Allshowsstartat8p.m.

galleries

Abbe Museum, BarHarbor.TheAbbeMuseum, devotedtofurtheringtheunderstandingand appreciationofMaineNativeAmericancultures, historyandarchaeologythroughexhibitions, programs,andresearch,iscelebratingits75th anniversarywithavarietyofeventsandprograms throughoutthesummer.288-3519.

Aucocisco Gallery, 615A CongressStreetandat theEastlandParkHotel.Portland.Marilyn BlinkhornexhibitsattheCongressStreetgallery, and"AbbyShahn:MemorieswithoutHeirs"at Eastland,continuesthroughJuly26.Augustbrings JohannaMooreandTerryHiltfollowedby SeptembershowswithGeorgeLloydandPeter Ralston.874-2060or iiiiii.aucocisco.com.

Bates College Museum of Art. Andrews Road. Lewiston."FromWhereIStood:Imagesfrom Ireland,Hawaii,andLandsBetween,"by photographerRowenaJ.Otremba;drawingsby LynnDrexler;andCollectionHighlightsareon exhibitthroughAugust17.786-6158or www.bates.edu/adm/museum.

Bowdoin College Museum of Art. Brunswick. "Picasso.Matisse,andOtherModernMastersfrom theWilliamAlexanderCollection"continues throughSeptember19andincludesworksbyMiro. Magritte,Gorky,Braque,andCalder,manybeing exhibitedfortheFirsttime.725-3275.

Center for Maine Contemporary Art. Maine CoastArtists,162RussellAvenue.Rockport."Art MakesaDifference.”CMCA’S26thannualart auctionisonAugust3.witha10-daypreview beginningJuly23.236-2875.

The /Art Gallery at The Clown. 123Middle Street,Portland.JulyfeaturespaintersJesse Blanchard,MarthaBurkert,andEvelyn Dunphy;inAugustTremainSmithand SusanWoodshowwithanopeningreception andwinetastingonAugust7.756-7399 or niviv.the-clonn.com.

Colby College Museum of Art. Waterville. "CherishedPossessions:ANewEnglandLegacy"

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continuesthroughAugust.872-3228or www.colby.edu/museum.

Diamond'sEdge.GreatDiamondIsland.An eclecticshowofemergingandestablishedMaine andNewEnglandartistscontinuesthroughLabor Day.766-5850orinfo@diamondsedge.coni.

FarnsworthMuseumofArt,MainStreet, Rockland.Currentexhibitsinclude"Mainein America:TwoHundredYearsofAmericanArt." ongoing;"EricHopkins:Waypoints.”throughJuly 27;"Pirates!FromtheGoldenAgeofIllustration" throughSeptember21:"PhotographsbyAbigail CohenandJoyceTenneson"throughOctober12; "MenatWork:PaintingsbyKristinaBranch"; "AndrewWyeth:Ericksons”throughOctober26th: and"TheLucidMark:15YearsofPaintingby DennisPinette.”August3-November12.5966457orwww.farnsworthniuseuni.org.

ForeStreetGallery.372ForeStreet.Portland. "CovesandHarbors”featuresworksbyBill TeodeckiandCherylBlaydon.throughJuly; "CoastalMaine"hastheworkofK.DanaNelson. August;and"TheIleightofLand"featuresJohn BickfordandMarciaBaker,September.874-8084 orwww.forestreetgallery.com.

Galeyrie.240U.S.Route1.Falmouth."FromFar Away."oilsfromUtahandNewMexicobyEstelle Roberge,continuesthroughJuly27.781-3555.

GreenhutGallen.146MiddleStreet,Portland. AlisonGtxxlwinshowsthroughAugust2.followed byanexhibitofrecentoilpaintingsbySarahKnock openingwithareceptiononAugust7and continuingtoAugust30.Recentworkinegg temperabyRocklandartistPhilSchirmerisfeatured forthemonthofSeptember,withanopening receptiononSeptember4.772-2693,or www.greenhutgalleries.com

HayGallery.594CongressStreet.Portland. "RachaelEastman:Visages."newpaintings exploringtheintensityoffaces,and"MaryB. Harrington"runsthroughJuly29:"ChrisCalivas: ReductiveLandscapes"showsfromJuly29to August31withapublicreceptionfortheartiston FirstFridayArtwalk.August1.773-2513.

InstituteofContemporaryArtatMaineCollege ofArt.522CongressStreet.Portland.Through September28."SkowheganFaculty2002-03,"an exhibitionoftheworkoffacultyatSkowhegan SchoolofPaintingandSculpture,isonviewatthe ICA.879-5742orwww.meca.edu.

LeightonGallery,ParkerPointRoad.BlueHill. TheseasonincludesworksbyRobertHamilton. WilliamIrvine.JacqueRochester.JohnWisscman. CabotLyford.LiseBecu.DougFrati.Bernard Langley,CynthiaStrout.Thegalleryisopenseven daysaweek.374-5001.

Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad & Museum. 58 ForeStreet.Portland.Themuseumfeaturestheonly calendar

Mainetwo-foot-gaugeparlorcar,builtin1901for theSandyRiverandRangeleyLakesRailroad,and thePondicherryandMt.Pleasant,twocoachesbuilt fortheBridgton&SacoRiverRailroadintheearly 1880s.828-0814.

PhotographicTraditionsofMaine, 125 PresumpscotStreet.Portland.AnexhibitofMaine students'workinopticalphotographycontinues throughAugust15.774-8200.

Plum,142HighStreet.Suite217,Portland.This galleryfeaturesauniqueselectionofnationallyknown Maineartjewelersandmetalsmiths.450-3628.

Portland Museum of Art, 7CongressSquare, Portland.Currentexhibitsinclude:“Mapping Maine:FourContemporary’Views,"through August24:"FairfieldPorter:ALifeinArt,19071975."throughSeptember7:and"Edward Weston:LifeWork"throughOctober19. AdmissionisfreeFridayeveningsfrom5to9. 773-ARTSor(800)639-4067.

Portland Harbor Museum, atSpringPoint. SouthernMaineTechnicalCollege,FortRoad, SouthPortland.Theexhibit“ADayintheLifeof PortlandHarbor"continuesthroughthe summer.799-6337.

St. Lawrence Arts and Community Center Gallery, 76CongressStreet.Portland.ArtistRobert Shetterlyintroduceshisexhibit."Portraitsof AmericansWhoTellTheTruth."July23.7755568orwww.stlawrencearts.org.

Ubuntu Home. 305CommercialStreet.Portkind. "AfricanSouls/Portland."anexhibitofphotographs byMarieHamann,continuesthroughJuly 29.761-9200.

UniversityofNewEngland. 716StevensAvenue. Portland."WiseWomen'sWisdom."featuring sculpturebyEllaTulinandpaintingsbyTraudis Kennedy,continuesthroughAugust17:Arthur Szyk."Patriot:Paintings,Lithographs&Posters," showsfromAugust23toOctober25.797-7261.

ANDREW WYETH: ERICKSONS

ThroughOctober26,2003

^FARNSWORTH art MUSEUM AND WYETH CENTER 16MuseumStreet,Rockland.ME04841 207-596-6457•farnsworthmuseum.org

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Nathaniel Lord Thompson

Thequintessentialseacaptain'shomeisforsalefor $795,000onSummerStreetinKennebunk.

In1874,NathanielLord Thompson,thedashingKenne¬ bunkshipbuilder,builtthe second-largestfloatingobject intheworld,the2,516-ton clippershipOceanKing, righthereintheKenne¬ bunkRiser.

Inthe1800s,Thomp¬ sonbuilt100ships, mostofthemsquare riggersgracingports allovertheworld. 11ceven commissioned shipwrightsto buildhis1842 Greek Revival home on

Centermle Farm

THE THRILL

Ourmall-sizeone-owner^ forbothcollectorsanddecorators.

OF DISCOVERY

shopisatreasurehouse

You’llalwaysfindafreshselection

ofoutstandingantiquefurniture,accessories,collectibles,andart foreveryinterestandpocketbook-wellcaredfor,wellorganized, interestinglydisplayed,readytoenhanceyourhomeoroffice.

Open7days,10-5 (closedmon.i 1/1-6/30)

Wewelcomethetrade.Wearealwaysinterestedinbayingitemsorcollections.

We’reeasytoreachat200RouteOneinScarborough,6milessouthofPortland 1-800-896-3443•www.centervale.com

SlimmerStreetinKennebunk,from whichheoversawhisworldwide endeavors.Now,160vearlater,his directdescendantshavedramatically puthislovelyhomeon themarket.

hroudedinlilacsandcommand¬ ingviewers’attentionwithno fewerthaneighttwo-storyDoric columns-fouroneachside-the NathanielLordThompsonhousehasa nauticallegacyasflowingastheKenne¬ bunkRiver.Here,inaprivateofficeon thefirstfloorof23SummerStreet, Thompsonmarshaledhisdominions androdeouttwodepressionsandthe CivilWarwhileshapingtheaspirations ofChinaTradecaptainsandcarpenters andmonitoringhisshippingactivities “fromkeeltotruck,”accordingtohis biography.CaptainNathanielLord ThompsonofKennebunk,Maine,and theShipslielluilt.bv MargaretJ.Thompson.

Thehouse,designedbvBeniah Littlefield,reflectsThompson’sYankee ingenuitysoacutelythatthepaneled parapetstrimmingtheroof“actually swingfromhingesontoptoletsnow slideofftherooftotheground,’’says sellerElliotGreen,himselfagreat grandsonoftheshipbuilder.

Thenewownerswillfindthehouse scry\ar.’stunningwithentablature andskylights:alargeformalentryand hall;fourbuilt-inwindowseatsinthe largefixingroom(withfireplaceson house of the month

eachend);Indianshutters;hardwood floors;screenedporches;diningroom withfoursilver-platedsconces,chan¬ delier,andslatefireplace;butler’s pantry;a1950skitcheninwhitewitha Monsonslatesinkand1920sdoubledoorrefrigerator;massivetilebaths trimmedinnickel;toweringlilac bushesreachingbeyondthesecond floor;fourbedrooms;atticwithbuiltins;a55-footby28-footbarn;rolling lawnoutback;and,whenwevisited,a deadraccoononthenorthlawn.

OfferedbyBethSmithofPrudential PrimeProperties,985-4952.Taxes are$5,381.

Galleries

TheWrightGallery,CapePorpoise,ME CamdenFallsGallery,Camden,ME

LupineGallery,MonheganIsland,ME PrincessStreetGallery,Bahamas

NEWENGLANDHOMES&LIVING

Waterfront Estate

Incomparablecontemporarydesignwithaone-of-a-kind,custom-designedandbuilt indoor-poolandgreat-roomaddition.This10.OOO-square-foot.year-roundhomeon 49acreswith340feetofelevated,rockyshorefrontageoffersfourbedrooms,four

fullbaths,twoone-halfbathsandfourfireplaces.Thisresidenceiselegantand gracious,yetverycomfortableandfunctional.Deededrightstoashareddeep-water dock.$2,750,000.*1133

Lovelycontemporaryhomesitedona5.5+/-acrelot,boastingcommanding viewsoutnorthwestHarbor.Verywellbuilt,thiswellmaintained,efficient,year roundhomeprovidesgraciousyearroundlivinginaverydesirablearea.Fully equippedwithlargeopenfloorplan,theexpansivehomeprovidesroomforfamily

andfriends.203'+/-ofrockyshore-frontagewithAnchorageoffshoreaccessedby alargewoodendockandfloatsystem.Privatesettingwithlandscapedgrounds, separate3baygarageandpost&beambarnandapproximately4+/-acresof fenced-inlandforpetsandanimals.51,595,000#1193

P.O.Box115,MainStreet

Stonington.ME04681207.367.2790

P.O.Box635.MainStreet

DeerIsle.ME04627/207.3486105

P.O.Box514.MamStreet BlueHill.ME04614207.374.5464

“7- ,-•’>1^.,

BOLD OCEAN, PEMAQUID POINT

Crashingsurf!Superboceansunsets!Anew,architectdesignedhomewith232'offrontage.Exteriorconstruction

completed,awaitingyourinteriordetailing!

SALTWATER

ESTATE - 36 ACRES

Strategicallysitedwith1100'+ontheDamariscottaRiver! Spacious&elegant4-bcdroommainhouse,guestquarters,

$975,000 outbuildings,troutpond,andmuchmore! $995,000

PEMAQUID LAKE, DAMARISCOTTA

Lakefronthomeon42acreswith800'offreshwaterfront¬ age.Threelevelsoflivingspace,4bedrooms,21/2baths, largemastersuite,gourmetkitchen&more!$625,000

SOUTH BRISTOL - BOOTHBAY AREA

Newwaterfronthomejustminutesfromtheopenocean! Fourbedrooms,fourbaths,state-of-the-artkitchen,and muchmore!Superbsunsets!Deepwaterdock!$2,175,000

ON THE DAMARISCOTTA RIVER

Sevenacres.358'offrontage.Over4500sfoflivingspace. Wonderfulplan.Meticulousdetailing.Magnificentland¬ scaping.Fantasticsunsets,1milefromtown.$985,000

PERKINS POINT, NEWCASTLE

Spaciousnew3-bedroomFederalon2.7acreswithdeeded accesstoAssociationdeepwaterdock.Private&secluded butonly2milestotown.OnehourtoPortland.S439,000

NEWENGLANDHOMES&LIVING

CAPENEDDICK-GorgcousoceanfrontCapeoverkxikingCa|>e NeddickIlarboron2.07acres.Beachfrontage,mooring,decks andpatiosarejustafewofthegraciousamenitiesthatthishome hastootter.Aseasonalcarriagehouseandanin-lawapt.await yourfinaltouches.Softoceanbreezesandmoonlitentertainingon spaciousdecksarebeckoningyounow.$2,490,000Annaxl()5

PORTLAND-Forhistorybuffs,weoffer“LothropLibby's HomesteadFarm"!ThisthreebedroomGreekRevivalandcar¬ riagehouseisoneoftheoldestinPortland,datingintothe 1700’s.Thishomeofferscustomhardwoodflooring,marble andcurvedmoldings.Exquisitelymaintainedandawaiting yourprivateviewing.$399,000Kevinxl04

SCARBOROUGH-Builtin1815,thishistoricallysignificant estatehasbeenunusuallywellpreservedandaboundswitharchi¬ tecturaldetailandperiodcharm.Themainhouseboasts11 rooms,fivefireplaces,wideboardpumpkinpinefloors,vaulted ceilings,cherrywoodworkhand-canedbyPortland'sF.O.Bailey, fixebedrooms,doublestaircases,anattachedcarriagehouseand spaciouspostandbeambam.$1.150.000SandraxlOI

KINNEYSHORESJustlisted-enjoyoceanviewsandbreezes fromthistastefullyrenovated3bedroombeachhouse-juststepsto sevenmilesofwhitesandbeach!Hardwoodfloors,granitecoun¬ tertops,breakfastbar.recessedlighting,newlyconstructedbonus roomwithbaywindowandslidersontolargeupperdeck.Open conceptandcathedralceilings.Oversizedlotwithexpansionpoten¬ tialandexcellentrentalhistory.Offeredat$489,000Sandrax101^/

FERRYBEACHJustlisted-Classicthreebedroomyearround oceanfronthomewithpanoramicviewsofsevenmilebeach.Period charm,spaciousrooms.largefencedyardwithpatioarea.Upward expansionpotentialand800Sq.Ft.finishedbasementofferunlimit¬ edpossibilities.MooringpennitavailableatSacoMarina.Enjoy oceanviewsandbreezesfromeverynxim.savorthesunsetsfrom thefrontsunroom,walkendlesslyonthewhitesand,orstrollto yourboat;uidnearbyrestaurants.OfferedatS725.000SandraxlOI

Phone:207-883-5096Fax:207-883-5097

Email:info@allpointsrealtors.com www.allpointsrealtors.com

$415,000*.

Private Sind Beach. Ocean Views From Every Room! 2BR Cottage. No Direct Road! 1BR Camp. Hot Tub, 2 Porches, Beach, Views!

RARE BLUEBERRY COVE! End Unit, Perfectly Sited. 2BR, 2BTH, Fplc, Wrap-Amd Deck, Den & more! 5335,000

2 homes with potential of 3 Incomes! 12 room Home with 4-Car Garage, have home business in Walk-Out Lower Level. Collect rents from 2 Condos in the 8 RmColonial.$925,000orpurchaseseparately-pricesabove. RE/M AX By The Bay (207) 773-2345

[g 970 Baxter Boulevard, Portland, Me. 04103 MLS Each OJfice Independently Owned & Operated

“BAILEYISLAND’’

Canthisbewhatyou’vebeenwaitingfor?

A wann, welcoming and very well cared for three bedroom home, featuring kitchen, dining room, living room with tireplace, study, two baths, sweeping views of Casco Bay,asurprisinglyprivate.58acrelot,180’ of deepwater frontage, plus a dock, ramp, floatanilprotectedanchorage,canbeyours for$750,000

“HARPSWELL”

Perhapsyourideaofperfectionisathree bedrixtm&.threebathcontemporaryhome. HIGH 11EAD, an established community withitsownprivateyachtclub?Thehouse itselfisabitdated,butthe2.4acrelot providesoneofthehighestoutkxiks,and most approachable shore lines, (255’ on HarpswellSound),tntheneighborhixxl.It’s beingofferedat$749,900

“NORTH HARPSWELL”

A third alternative for the deep blue water enthusiast is this enchanting nine room cottage- style home with 20 acres of land and deep-water frontage. If your shoppinglistincludesoldfashionedcharm with modern conveniences, a two car garage with guest apartment, and an unobstructed view over lawn and meadow totheshore,thisone’storyou.$1,250,000

Morton Real Estate

240 Maine Street ’Brunswick, ME 04011 • (207) 729-1863 Email: mortonre@mainere.com www.mainere.com

ELLSWORTH- Within close proximity to city amenities and \ our o wn

kept, roomy expanded 3bdrm. cape has new siding A: roof. Move in and call this "HOME". $195,000

GOULDSBORO: This 1 800's cape has a private and full of flowers. Four working master bedroom. Original trim, and #245,000

ADDISON: This lovely home is on 7plus acres. Built by a master craftsman and it shows throughout.

and much more. Also with potential for business exposure. $199,000

updated this home o v e r the sears with quality craftsmanship and personal

$ 172.500

WALTHAM A beautiful wood interior, high ceilings, well insulated home on Graham Lake. Land is leased. New septic, generator shed tied into the house. Dock & canoe included. $95,500

STEUBEN Beautiful sunrises as far as

Watch the boats & seals from this wellmaintained 3bdrm. 2 bath home with 240' of shorefront and views of Petit Manan Lighthouse. $245,000

frontage on Eggomogin Reach. With views of Blue Hill, z\cadia and White's

and a permit to build another 14 ft. shop/garage. S525.OOO districts. SI 35.000

ORLAND: Cozy pine log home with open floor plan & cathedral ceilings. Wide pine board & cobblestone flooring. Bedroom & bath on first floor. Very large backyard with fencing. Near lakes

II A NCOCK: Wonderfully secluded, spacious home in a quiet neighborhood w/deeded access to lovely Taunton Bay nearby. Some amenities include a formal diningroom, sunken livingroom, spacious deck, walk-in closets and two full baths. $169,500

STEUBEN: Partially updated and renovated year-round home on a relatively quiet road, and 250' of shorefront on Dyer's Harbor. Within short commute to downtown Steuben. First floor bath w/whirlpool tub. separate shower & laundry area. $ 1 20.000

CSiJL.S

Avarietyofdirectoceanfrontparcelsavailable.Allpropertiessurveyedwithgoodtitle,electricityand year-roundroad.Pricesstartingat$55,000.00(U.S.).Ownerfinancingavailable. Forfreebrochurecontactowner,Bradley Wisemanat (207) 862-6225; 862-3613 FAX or e-mail at bhwiseman@adelphia.net Broker participation welcome.

LoonLodge

LoonLodgesitson4.9acres of prime waterfront on Rangcley Lake. Elegant 100x40 lodge with 32 rooms.Propertyincludesa separate2BRcottagethat overlooks Rangeley Lake. Large floating dock. This finepropertyhaspotentialas afamilylodge,retreat,orto continue the Loon Lodge Traditionasafinediningandlodgingestablishment.#9009 $3,200,000

NorthCountry

UnbelievableFalmouthwaterfront.Solidhomelocatedonthe PrcsumpscottRiver,withdirectaccesstoCascoBay.Greatyard withmatureshadetrees.Thishomeisexpandableandhas wonderfulpossibilities.Waterviewsfrommosteverysun-filled room.Currently3br.2.5bath.Offeredat$685,000

Contact Michael A. Jacobson at King Real Estate

North Country, one of the most gracefulhomesinRangeley!This turnofthecenturyhomehasrich oak. beveled glass and all the graciousness of a stately manor house including carriage house. Propertyconsistsof1.25+-acreson Main Street with Lake and

Mountainviewsacrossthegardenlot.CurrentlyoperatedasaB&B#7016 $549.000_

2455 Main Street • Rangeley, Me. 04970 (207) 864-2500 • www.ccoverealty.com www.citycoverealty.com • Email: citycove@rangeley.org

Beautyisintheeyeofeverybeholder

Ourcustomerstellusthatoneofthekeyreasonstheychose• L.C. Andrew - Maine Cedar Log Homes to build their log k homeisthe outstandingexteriorappearance.

It'snowonder.Westartwithgreatdesignsanduseamatchlesscombinationofonlydie bestmaterials.ConsiderourNorthernWhiteCedarlogstliataremilledtoaround profileandshasedtocreateanatural.rusticlook,befittingaloghome.Thenwetrim ourgenerousroofoverhangswithCellarandfinishundertireoverhangswithv-matched Cedar.WealsouseCellardeckingandCedarrailingmaterialforouroutsidedecksand porches.

Andersenwindows*andpatiodixrrsaddthefinishingKxtch....it'sabeautifultiring!

Thebestofbothworlds!SkiingmidGolf!1.octiledonthefairwayofa toprankedRobertTrentJonesJrGolfCourse.Thistimberframed custom home has a gourmet kitchen.T4BR + loft. 25 BA, 3 storv fieldstonefireplace,beautifuldetailsintheframing,viewsofgolf courseandmountainrange.Onthelovelvdeckisahottubtoenjov theviewamongthebirches.Thelocationissospecialbecausevouare tuckedawavonalandscapedlot.1'orskiseasonvoucancrosscountn skiorsnowshoelightoutthedoorortaketheshuttlefordownhill skiing.S4>7,000

Dramaticcontemporaryoverlookingthe7thfairwayoftheFalmouth CountryClubwithexpansiveviews.4800+/-sq.ft.,upto6 bedrooms.Fireplaceinlivingroomandfamilyroom.Topoftheline appliancedgourmetkitchenwithbutlerspantry.Marblemasterbath, jacuzzisteamshower.WiredforsoundaswellasCAD5network. Don’tdelay,summerisinfullswing!Offeredat$795,000

Contact Michael A. Jacobson at King Real Estate

TherehasneverbeenabettertimetoHunkabout sellingyourMaineproperty

Ifyourecognizethatthelimeisrighttocapitalizeon today'sunprecedenteddemandforretdestate,startwith athorough,professionalevaluationofitsworthfrom

MaineCoastProperties, specialistsinselling homesincoasted andsouthern Mainesince1985.

Contactuswhilethetimeisright.1-800-2380395 Oryoumayvisitourwebsite:triru'.maineeoastproyerties.biz

www.waverly.com

East Boothbay. Maine Neverbeforeonthemarket thisirreplaceablel(X)-yearoldMainecoastcottage offersthetinecrashingsurf, boatsseeminglyatyour frontdoor,androcky beaches.Inwhichonecan envisionsittinginfrontof thewelcomingfireplaceorenjoyingthewaterviewsfromevery room.Thisisapreciousgemtoaddtoanyone’smostprized familyheirlooms,sothattheenjoymentofthewildlife,the panoramicviewsoftheAtlanticOcean,GreenIsland,harbor seals,sailboats,andthelobstermencanbeenjoyedforalifetime. Comejointhecommunityinexploringtheendlessactivitiesthat awaityouatOceanPoint. $2,499,000

www.cromwcllprop.com 1IclpingBuyersandSellersthroughtoutMidcoastMaine!

extraordinaryhomebyKuhnsBros. LogHomes.Ithasbeencarefully designedandindividuallycrafted forpeoplewhowantthatveryspecial placetocalltheiram.KuhnsBros, isyourbestloghomevalueoffering unsurpassedserviceandsupportplus ahostoflifetimebenefitssuchas:

Coldwell Banker

ResidentialBrokerage Office- 877-591-9888 x 221 Cell - 207-590-3717

I-ax-207-967-5742

casew^'adelphia.net KENNEBUNK... JUST STEPS FROM THE OCEAN Contemporaryclassamidstalandscapeofstonewalls,white birchesandperennialgardensliesthishavenofahome!The propertyisclosetothebeachandabutsasaltwatermarsh. Lis einoneofMaine'spremierelocations! $799,900 Dan Sullivan 797-8585 x!34.

ARMOUIII.A RARE UM) Thistrulyuniquecontemporary'homeon aprivate4.22acrelotoffersagraciouslifestyle.Chefskitchen, bedroomwing,cherryfloorsandathirdfloorstudioarejusta hintofthepleasurestobefoundhere. $699,000 Tim Flaherty 797-8585x116. 1“ I I~ vX. .

Enjoymagnificentandexpansiveviewsfromacharminghome indesirableCapeElizabethneighborhood.Newlyappointedand landscapedforyourindoor/outdoorlivingpleasure.2bedrooms, 3baths,andprivatespaceforguests. $1,500,000 PhilippaMorton.Ext.27

Absolutely stunning 1813 Federal style home. Optionsincludeexpansivesinglefamilyliving; comfortable living with an in-law apartment; either with an attached commercial componentcurrentlyawell-establishedartgallery.Beautiful corner location. For more information call Deborah Coward Direct: 207-553-7370 r. r,ual Tour.,, www trubrit.org

Mybestfriend,alwaysgenerous,be¬ ganlavishinggiftsonlovedones sinceshelearnedshe’sdyingasifto makeupforthebirthdaysandChristmases she’llbecheatedof.Shewon’ttellanyone howmuchtimeherdoctorhasgivenher.

“I’mdying,that’sit.”Shewaxesherhand

Sheshakesherhead.“Don’tbuyit.”I jamtheblousebackontotherack.“I’m goingoutsidetostartthecar,”1tellher.I gunthemotor,breathingdeeplyuntilI’m calm,remindingmyselfthatIneedtoac¬ ceptmyhelplessness.Myfriendcomesout withasweatershelaysinmylap.“Yoursize dismissively.“They’ makeguesses.”

“It’sacrapshoot,”I agree.“Howthehell wouldtheyreally' know.”1repeata storyaboutafriendof afriendofafriend whowasgivensix monthstolive10 yearsago.He’s macrobiotic,living oneday'atatime. Shesmilesatme. Shedoesn’tweara wig,andherhair, finallygrowingback, issilver.Herskinis translucent.It shimmersasthougha fireragesinside.Her darkeyeshavegrown

Generosity

haxeherdaughters.Neitherhasherhusband, whois]X>ssiblyhaxinganaffair.

“RehearsalforwhenI’mdead,”she saysdryly.

“Shewon’ttalktome,”Itellmyhus¬ bandinthedark.“Icanonlyimaginewhat she’sfeeling.”

andcolor.We’venever leftasecond-handstore withoutbuying something.”Jhugher, knowingthatI’llnever enterasecond-hand storeonceshe’sgone. Hershouldersquiveran instantandmyhands tremblewhileweem¬ brace.Sheleansback andsay's,“Id'sgetice cream.”Onthewayto BenandJerry’s,shesays, “Promisethatyou'llget somefabuloustilingsfor mygrandchildrenatthe junkshop.”Inod. Itossinbedallnight.I haven’theardhercry once,exenaftertwo mastectomies.Neither enonnous,cavernsswallowinghalfher face.Thoseeyesstareatmewith compassionformyfuturelossofher. Iwonderaboutwheresheisonthe famousKubler-Rossstepsfromdenialto acceptance.Iwanttocomfortherthrough eachstep.IknowIwanttodothatfor myself.Shewon’ttellmewhatshewants metodoforher,andI’mherbestfriend.

“Everyoneisdying,everyone,”shesays.I casuallyofferopeningstotalkaboutit,but shechangesthesubject.Mygenerous friendhasalwaysbeenstingywithherfeel¬ ings,mostespeciallynow.

Wcgotolunchandthentothesecond¬ handstorefor“treasures,”aritualsinceour now-adultchildrenwerebabies.1drive.It tireshertobebehindthewheel.Wcjunk¬ shopforNickDrakeorJohnMartynre¬ cords,cashmeresweaters,anythingmade ofsterlingsilver,unusualbooks.Weexam¬ inejewelry'foramberoraquamarine.Wc lookfordishpatternsourparentshad.I findasilkblouseinhersizeandFavorite colorandwanttobuyitforher.

“Now?”sheasks.

“Whynot?”Itellher.Youcanwearit tomorrow.It’llbebeautifulonyou.”

“No.”Sheturnsaway.

Iamsuddenlyangry’.'You’realiveright now.atthismoment,”Isax’toherback.

‘Yes,”hesays,curlinghisarmbeneath myshoulders.“Butshe’ssuchaprix-ate person,imaginingherfeelingsiswhat you’xcalwayshadtodo.”Afewdayslater, myfriendgixesmeanothergift-apewter pinoffixemendancingbeneaththemoon. Ilieiranusarethrownupinecstasx;their feetjivingtosomewildrhxthm.'Ihereisa joyousabandoninthelooseconfiguration oftheirbodies.

It’snew.

‘Thanks,”Itellher.“It’sbeautiful.Butit’s notsecond-hand.Youbrokeourpact.”

“Yes,"shesaxs,turningawayfromthetears inmyeyes.“Butwhatthehell,you’remy bestfriend.”Sheglancesatme,thenholds thepininthepalmofherhandandstaresat it.Shetellsme,“1hadtogetit.Ivenexer seenonelikeitIrcfore.Womenhowling blindlyatthemoon.”Herxoicecracks.

HabitatforHumanity,Portland,from left:MMCdoctorsAnnSkelton,Amy Costa,andAlanJ.Montegut

ICA Honors’ at MECA, I fromleft:] Betty • ‘Gilmore, j Roger Gilmore,an< BethElicker rGeorgeLloydandMelville ^McLean

VictoriaMansionreception announcing the “Herter Circle,”’fromleft:Tori Lamber^ Ted Arnold, Lorie Dorrance,andJuliaKirby

York
ICA Honors at MECA, ™ fromleft:WarrenRoos
exhibit at UniveP

TheWildCafeisfilledwithpure,tastydelights tosatisfyeveryappetite.Eachdayweprepare sensationalvegetarian,veganandtraditional dishes,usingonlythefreshestandmostflavorful ingredients.Hotpizza,made-to-ordersandwiches,

organicsaladbar,grilledrotisseriechickens, gourmetentrees,freshsushi,decadentdesserts, artisanbreadsandmore.Neveranyartificial colors,flavors,additivesorpreservatives. Andyouthoughtwewerejustagrocerystore.

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