Portland Monthly Magazine May 2013

Portland Monthly ® Magazine

Cafés on fire | Sudden fiction | personal spaces

Maine’s City Magazine

May 2013

Roll Up (Yes, it’s an invitation)

(Yes, it’s an invitation)

Volume 28, No..3

Sargent Publishing

m a y 2 0 1 3 V o l . 2 8 NO . 3 $ 5 . 9 5

w w w. p o r t l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m

Magical Mystery Tours

Night Galleries, Portland’s Future, Shipwrecks, Excursions, Theater

N.C.Wyeth, Black Spruce Ledge (“Time and Tide”), 1941, egg tempera

Eat: • Port Kitchen (207.372.6543) • The Dip Net (207.372.1112) • The Barn Cafe (207.372.0700) • Village Ice Cream (207.372.6479) • The Black Harpoon (207.372.6304)

See: Islands, history, lobsters, art. Two & three-hour water excursions. We can arrange for individual art and history guides to take you to Monhegan on the daily ferry from Port Clyde, or to the Farnsworth Art Museum, Olson House, and more.

(207.372.6600)

From my wharf in Port Clyde you can begin to understand the timeless pleasures of what I define as my perfect Maine.

With its authentic fishing harbor and historic peninsula village, its artists and brave seasonality, Port Clyde remains unique and unparalleled for seekers of the unspoiled: what is firsthand real, not contrived.

Shoot the breeze with fishermen at the General Store. Sit a spell on the dock with a breakfast muffin.

Bike with a basket of lobster rolls to picnic on the scenic ledges at Marshall Point Lighthouse. Forrest Gump found this place, too!

Come aboard my lobsterboat ‶Linderin Losh” to see where millions of Maine lobsters are caught and bartered along the shore. And where three generations of Wyeths have painted their famous works.

Close the day with local food, drink, and glorious sunsets.

Plan to stay awhile. Pick up a mooring. Choose a room at the inn.

Or relax in a rental cottage by the week, month or season. In Port Clyde I’m here, at home, to make your getaway perfect.

Stay: (207-372-0765) • Seaside Inn • Seaside Cottages • Rental Moorings • Vacation Homes & Gardens • Herring Gut Learning Center • Blueberry Cove 4-H Summer Camp

Shop: (207.372.6543) • Port Clyde General Store • Port Clyde Fresh Catch • Port Clyde Art Gallery • Wyeth at “The Store Upstairs” • Sea Star Shop and more...

LindaBeansPerfectMaine.com

Established 1975

O CEANFRONT GRILLE & BAR (150 Yards North of the Pier)

Seafood • Burgers Steak • Lobster Frozen Drinks Lil’ Mates Menu

A fun, relaxing atmosphere!

Eat in or on our beachfront patio!

OPEN SUMMERTIME 7 DAYS A WEEK LIVE MUSIC FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY 124:30 PM 2 Cortland Avenue Old Orchard Beach

207-934-2058

www.SURF6oceanfront.com

PALLARKING IS Free LOCATIONS, ALL THE TIME!

Come to Shop, Stay to Play

Maine’s Favorite

Shopping Destination

Don’t Miss ReFresh Saturday, June 1, 4PM -7PM.

Cap off a great day of shopping our town-wide sidewalk sale with an evening of live music, food, and cocktails. Step into summer and refresh your look with complimentary consultations with makeup, style, and fitness gurus. Tickets $25, include one drink and hors d’oeuvres

Great Food

Get Outdoors

Local Fun

Call or click to order your FREE guide and map!

FREEPORTUSA.COM 800.865.1994

Don’t forget!

more fun for the family at

Nordica TheatRE

50 Exchange St. Portland, Me 04101 207-253-8075

17 Ocean Ave. Kennebunkport, Me 04104 207-967-1258

Interested in Selling?… We Buy & Appraise!

Buyers & Sellers of Estate & Antique Jewelry w w w. s t o n e h o m e a n t i q u e s . c o m

Shops at Falmouth Village 16 Locally Owned Shops • RT. 1, Falmouth • shopsatfalmouthvillage.com

Welcomes Bueno Loco Restaurante!

Kid-friendly restaurante offering Mayan Mexican cuisine & full bar!

619-7057 • Locally Owned Open 7 Days a Week for Lunch & Dinner • buenoloco.net

MAINE TOURMALINE The Wonder of It All Come To Cross, The Source.

PM52013

Cross Jewelers Jewelers to New England Since 1908 570 Congress St. Upstairs Downtown Portland

www.CrossJewelers.com

1-800-433-2988

Experience matters.

Experience us.

Distinctively seasoned with tradition

Anchorage By The Sea has been providing notably impeccable service to our guests since first opening our doors more than 30 years ago. It makes us proud that many of those same guests, as well as the next generation of their families, continue to stay with us season after season.

Experience breathtaking views and unsurpassed amenities. Enjoy scenic walks along the famous Marginal Way to Perkins Cove, and explore the unique shops in Ogunquit Village just footsteps away.

Begin your tradition with us and enjoy all that Maine’s distinct Southern Coast has to offer – now, and for years to come.

125 Shore Road

n

P.O. Box 2406

n

Ogunquit, ME 03907

n

T: 207.646.9384

AnchorageByTheSea.com

r e v e F g n i r p S h c Cat nquit!

In Ogu ur Sign up for o t a r E-Newslette uit.org www.ogunq

Ogunquit Maine is the premier destination to satisfy all of your spring and summer wishes.

Experience miles of beautiful sandy beaches, quaint seaport coves, fine dining, superior accommodations and a selection of unique shops and businesses in one convenient location.

Amore Breakfast/Café Amore 207-646-6661/207-646-6660 amorebreakfast.com

The Barrel Stave, Retail Gift Shop 207-646-8298 barrelstave.com

The Beaches Motel & Cottages 207-216-4065 beachesofmaine.com

Beauport Inn

207-361-2400 beauportinn.com

Bintliff’s Restaurant, Ogunquit 207-646-3111 bintliffsogunquit.com

Caffé Prego

207-646-7734 caffepregoogt.com

Carriage House Motel, Cottages and Suites

207-646-2159 or 888-213-4720 mainecarriagehouse.com

Clay Hill Farm Restaurant 207-361-2272 clayhillfarm.com

Cornerstone Artisanal Pizza & Craft Beer 207-646-4118 cornerstoneogt.com

Dragonfly Guest House 207-216-4848 dragonflyguesthouse.com

The Dunes on the Waterfront 207-646-2612 dunesonthewaterfront.com

Feile Restaurant & Pub 207-251-4065 feilerestaurantandpub.com

Fisherman’s Catch

207-646-8780 fishermanscatchwells.com

Five-O Shore Road Restaurant 207-646-5001 five-oshoreroad.com

Gorges Grant Hotel 800-646-5001 ogunquit.com

Inicio Bistro & Bar 207-646-7580 iniciobistro.com

The Inn On Shore Road 207-646-2181 theinnonshoreroad.com

Inn Season Resorts The Falls at Ogunquit

866-469-8222 8664myvacation.com/resorts/fao

Juniper Hill Inn 800-646-4544 ogunquit.com

Katie’s on Shore Road

207-641-2780 katiescafeonshoreroad.com

Knight’s Quilt Shop 207-361-2500 mainequiltshop.com

2013 Calendar of Events

Mainely Quilts Gift Shop 207-985-4250 mainelyquilts.com

For more information on these events, go to www.visitogunquit.org.

Meadowmere Resort

May 11 ~ Aids Walk May 25-27 ~ NAMES Project AIDS Memorial Quilt Display June 7-8 ~ Annual Chamber Music Festival June 29 ~ Ogunquit Lifeguard Dash - All

207-646-9661 meadowmere.com

The Milestone 800-646-6453 ogunquit.com

are welcome. Benefits Ogunquit Lifeguard Rescue equipment. 5K beach run.

Moon Over Maine

July ~ July 4th Fireworks

207-646-6666 moonovermaine.com

August 22 ~ 40th Annual Sidewalk Art Show & Sale More than 70 artists showcase and sell their work on the sidewalks and parking lots of downtown Ogunquit. (Raindate: August 23rd)

The Neptune Inn On the Beach 207-646-2632 theneptuneinn.com

September ~ Capriccio - A two-week long

celebration of the arts. September 7th Capriccio Festival of Kites-Sponsored by Ogunquit Rotary Club and Ogunquit Performing Arts. 207-646-2261. (Rain date: September 8th)

Ogunquit Rental Properties 207-646-1500 ogunquitrentalproperties.com

September 14 ~ Annual Lobster Dash - 5 mile

Photography by Katherine

October 25-27 ~ 10th Annual OgunquitFest

beach run. FMI visit www.lobsterdash.com.

207-451-3734 kathsimages.com

A fun-filled weekend of fall-themed events including pumpkin and cookie decorating, costume parade, classic car show, craft show, high heel race, bed race, wagon rides, storytelling, and a scarecrow contest and more!

Raspberri’s Restaurant

November 10 ~ 5th Annual Celebrations by the Sea Wedding Expo brings together a variety

800-646-5001 ogunquit.com

of experienced local vendors and professionals who can help you plan your special day by the sea.

Rockmere Lodge

December 7-8 & 13-15 ~ 27th Annual Christmas by the Sea Celebration.

207-646-2985 rockmere.com

Concerts, caroling, tastings, visit with Santa, parades, tree lightings, ornament making, storytelling, bonfire, hay rides, craft shows.

Seaside Vacation Rentals 866-681-8081 seasiderentals.com

All Event dates and times are subject to change.

t io n a n ti s e D n o s a e Yo u r 4 S

Swamp John’s Fine Art Jewelry 207-646- 9414 swampjohns.com

Tanger Outlet Centers 1-800-406-4490 tangeroutlet.com/kittery

Village Food Market Wells-Ogunquit Resort Motel & Cottages 207-646-8588 wells-ogunquit.com

The Wild Blueberry Restaurant 207-646-0990 thewildblueberryrestaurant.com

Photo by Robert Joyner

207-646-2122 villagefoodmarket.com

OGUNQUIT CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 36 Main Street (US Rt 1) Ogunquit, ME 03907

207-646-2939 www.ogunquit.org www.visitogunquit.org

M.R. BREWER RENOVATION RESTORATION CABINETRY CUSTOM DOORS MILLWORK

QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP SINCE 1987

PORTLAND, MAINE

MRBREWER.COM

207.797.7534

Inside

clockwise from top left: courtesy Sheri Poftak/F.O.W.I.L.; Cooke Aquaculture; 20th Century Fox; jennifer kearns; courtesy portland museum of art/ Philippe de Formanoir

May 2013

41

55 Features

Departments

20

14 From the Editor 16 Letters 18 Imperatifs 21 Summer Theater Guide 26 Goings On 35 Chowder 62 Dining Guide 63 Restaurant Review

The Tardy Boys’ (Awesome) Adventure

A new curtain rises in our Maine Summer Theater Preview.

By Claire Z. Cramer

37

Cafés of Portland

41

Search for the Alpha Salmon

Open the doors and see all the people.

From Staff & Wire Reports Omega 3, Omega 6, and a hotly contested game of fish.

By Claire Z. Cramer

44 Future Town

Hop aboard for a tour of the Forest City three months from now.

By James V. Horrigan

50

Happy Campers

55

Lazy Man’s Shipwrecks

76

Security, without security.

By Colin W. Sargent Maritime archaeology without flippers and a diving mask

By Colin W. Sargent

Viva La Selva

Welcome to the Bar Harbor Astoria.

By Brad Emerson

Cover: Downtown, midtown–where is uptown? “Longfellow Square”

by Cynthia Farr-Weinfeld.

18 35

Enio’s Eatery

Special advertising section

72 Summer Unplugged 74 Casco Bay Experience

76

89 New England

Homes & Living

101 Fiction

“Clearing Millinocket”

By Lucia Davies

102 Flash

18

m ay

2013 13

editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

24” x 24” oil on canvas Morning Light, Monhegan 24” x 24” oil on canvas

3" × 5" Oil on PanelCafe The Crooked Mile Bruce Habowski Dawn in Anson, Maine Tracy Medling 3" × 5" Oil on Panel 20" Bruce x Tracy 24" Oil on Canvas Habowski Medling

Paul Black

Featuring works of fine Featuringoriginal original works of fine Featuring original works of fine Featuring original works oflimitedfine art, photography, and limitedart, photography, and art, photography, and limitedart, photography, and limitededition prints by regional edition prints by regional edition prints by regional edition prints by regional and local artists. andlocal local artists. and artists. and local artists.

372 Fore Street 372Fore Fore Street 372 Street Portland, Maine 04101 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-8084 Portland, 04101 (207) Maine 874-808404101 Portland, Maine www.forestreetgallery.com www.forestreetgallery.com 207 207 874-8084 874-8084

www.forestreetgallery.com www.forestreetgallery.com

www.dcolejewelers.com 1 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Extimacy Thanks to a neologism dreamed up by Jacques Lacan (1901-1981), we can suffer from extimacy issues, too.

Say you and your loved one are snuggled in front of a stone fireplace with two free glasses of Courvoisier VSOP Five Star cognac (hey, it’s my example). A rainstorm lifts over the waves, glides toward your complimentary oceanfront rental cottage like a blue veil, luminous at twilight. You whisper loving secrets to one another–it’s so romantic, you may even propose. Depending on how many clichés you use, that’s intimacy.

Now throw in a crashing thunderstorm.

Strangers run toward you from their cars.

Brian Williams is on TV, telling us it’s this week’s Storm of the Century. The storm is so drenched with media it has its own theme music. The beach evacuation team bangs on your door. Quick–enjoy a kiss. You’re a heartbeat away from achieving extimacy.

It’s a Möbius strip. One side of your experience is extremely subjective, endearing, your unconscious sense of self. The other side is as overexposed as Alec Baldwin.

Baldwin stayed at The Inn on Carleton on the West End a few years ago. “It was the most bizarre thing,” former innkeeper Sue Cox told us. “He got in late Friday night. After he’d been in his room for a little bit, he came downstairs and visited the bar for a chat with my daughter, husband, and me. ‘I’d like to have a piece of pie and a glass of milk,” he said. “Where could I get that?”

Intimacy? Not precisely. There was no pie or milk. Extimacy!

It’s your private interiority splayed across a cosmic geography, the human heart bowled through icy space. How frightening the twitterscape seems–jillions of innocents toplessly disclosing shy worlds with nobody bothering even to ‘like’ it. Sea monkeys are more passionate.

Next time you’re deep in thought, released among the vast eternals of a beach, think of the private you and you on the Other side of the mirror.

Maybe that’s why, as summer rushes near, we locals and our intimates love to pretend we’re tourists–to sample Maine’s restaurants and hotels during the secret weekends before the madding summer crowd gets here. Our month of May might as well be an official holiday–when we are they.

Rhonda Farnham

The Crooked Mile Cafe Dawn in Anson, Maine

(l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

PortlandThe Portland Harbor Group at TM

(l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

(l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Macha Maine’s City Zara Magazine

The Portland Harbor Group at Morgan Stanley Smith Barney The Portland Harbor Group The Portland Harbor atatHarb The Portland Harbor Group at TheGroup Portland Morgan Stanley Barney Providing Strategies designed to Smith assist you with Wealth Creation, Morgan Stanley Smith Barney Stanley Barney Morgan StanleyMorgan Smith and Barney Morgan Stanley S Preservation Distribution Smith 165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 E-mail: staff@portlandmonthly.com www.portlandmagazine.com (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher

editor@portlandmonthly.com

Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Wealthat Creation, The Portland Harbor Group Strategies designed to• Corporate assist youandwith Wealth Creation, andWealth Distribution Estate Business Retirement roviding Strategies designedProviding to•Preservation assistPlanning you with Creation, Providing Strategies designed to as • Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory Services Preservation and Distribution Barney reservation and DistributionMorgan Stanley Smith Preservation and Distribution • Trusts • Executive Financial Services

Nancy Sargent

Jesse Stenbak

Robert T. Witkowski

Art & Production Art Director Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Design Director

(l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

(l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker Advertising (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

Anna J. Nelson Advertising Director (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, anna@portlandmonthly.com Amanda Commander Advertising Executive amanda@portlandmonthly.com

Nikki Kelly Marketing (l to r): David Mitchell, Christopher Rogers, Lauren Schaefer-Bove, Zara Machatine, Steve Guthrie, Dana Ricker

The Portland Harbor Group at ThePortland Portland Harbor Group atat The Portland Harbor Group Morgan Stanley Smith Barney The Portland Harbor Group The Harbor at The Portland Harbor Group at TheGroup Portland Harbor G Morgan Stanley Smith Barney Morgan Stanley Stanley Smith Barney Morgan Stanley Smith Barney Morgan StanleyMorgan SmithatBarney Morgan Stanley Smith The Portland Harbor Group at Morgan Stanley Smith Barney

• Estate Planning • Corporate and Business Retirement • Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory Services •• Estate Planning Corporate andPlanning Business Retirement Corporate and Businessdesigned Retirement•to • Estate Estate Planning Providing Strategies assist you with Wealth Creation, • Corp • Trusts Planning • Executive Financial Services • Retirement • Wealth Advisory Services Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory Services • Retirement Planning • Weal Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell Preservation and Distribution • Executive • Trusts Financial Services Trusts editorial • Executive Financial Services • Trusts • Execu Senior Vice President Vice President Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Wealth Creation, Claire Z. Cramer Assistant Editor & Publisher Financial Advisor Financial StevePlanning Guthrie David M.Advisor Mitchell Preservation and Distribution claire@portlandmonthly.com • Estate • Corporate and Business Retirement Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Wealth tCreation, Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Senior Vice President Financial Planning Specialis Vice President Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell • Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory Services teve Guthrie David M. Mitchell Steve Guthrie

Jason Hjort Webmaster Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Wealth Creation, Preservation and Distribution • Estate Planning • Corporate and Business Retirement Providing Strategies designed to assist you with Wealth Creation, Providing Strategies designed to assistDavid you wi Financial Advisor Financial Advisor

Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Senior Vice President Vice President • Trusts • Executive Financial Services • Retirement Planning •Senior Wealth Advisory Services Preservation and Creation, Distribution enior Vice President Vice President Vice President Vice Pr Wealth Preservation, and Distribution Preservation and Distribution Preservation and Distribution Jeanee Dudley Goings On t Financial Planning Specialis •• Trusts •• Corporate Executive Financial Services Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Estate Planning and Business Retirement Dana A. Ricker Christopher G. Rogers nancial Advisor Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Financ Cynthia Farr-Weinfeld Contributing Photographer David M. Mitchell A.Business Ricker • Retirement Planning •Dana Wealth Advisory Services Planning •to Corporate andPlanning Retirement Financial Planning Specialis tCreation, • CorporateFinanc Corporate and Business Retirement • Estate and Bu • Estate Planning Vice President Senior Vice President Providing Strategies designed assist you with Wealth ••• Estate Corporate and Business retirement • Estate Planning accounting Financial Planning Specialis t • Trusts Planning •Vice Executive Financial Services • Retirement • Wealth Advisory Services Vice President President Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell • Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory Services • Retirement Planning • Wealth Advisory S Sarah Campbellton Controller Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell • Wealth Advisory Service • Retirement Planning Preservation and Distribution Dana A.Advisor Ricker Christopher G.r Rogers Financial Financial Adviso •• Trusts • Executive Financial Services sarah@portlandmonthly.com • Trusts Executive Financial Services • Trusts • Executive Financia Senior Vice President Vice President • Executive Financial Service • Trusts Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Senior Vice PresidentSpecialist Vice President ViceA. President Senior ViceM.Advisor President Financial Planning Financial Advisor Financial StevePlanning Guthrie David Mitchell interns Dana Ricker Christopher G.Ricker Rogers • Estate • Corporate and Business Retirement ana A. Ricker Christopher G. Rogers Dana A. Christ Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Planning Specialist Financial Planning Rosalie Darrell, Roux Lobozzo Financial Financial Planning SpecialistSpecialist Senior VicePlanning President Vice President rServices Financial Advisor Financial Adviso Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell • Retirement • Wealth Advisory Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchel Vice President Senior Vice President subscriptions Financial Financial AdvisorSpecialist ice President Senior Vice Planning President Vice President Senior Financial Planning Vice Advisor President President •Senior Trusts •Vice Executive Financial Services t Financial Specialis President Vice President Senior Vice President Vice President address Vice and a check for $39 To subscribe please send yourSenior t Financial Planning Specialis Financial Financial Adviso rAdvisor Financial Advisor Financial Advisor A. Ricker Christopher G. Rogers nancial Advisor (1 yr.), $55 (2 yrs.),Financial Adviso Financial Financ r Dana or $65 (3 yrs.) to Financial LaurenAdvisor Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine Advisor Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Financial Advisor David M. Mitchell Dana A. Ricker David M. Mitchell A. Ricker Christopher G. Rogers Steve Guthrie Financial Planning Specialis t Vice President Senior Vice President Financial Planning Specialis t Financial Planning Specialis Financial Planning S t nancial Planning Specialis Financial Planning Specialis t t Vice President Vice President Vice President President Senior Registered Associate Client Service Steve Guthrie David M. Mitchell Portland Magazine Dana A.Advisor Ricker Christopher G. Rogers rPresident Financial Financial Adviso Senior Vice President Senior Vice Dana A. Ricker Christopher G.Associate Rogers Financial Advisor Advisor Senior Vice President Lauren Schaefer-Bove

165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 Dana A. Ricker or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com Vice President

Financial Financial Advisor ViceMachatine President Zara

ViceA. President Senior Vice President Financial Planning Specialist Dana Ricker Christopher G.Ricker Rogers Vice President Vice President Christopher G. Rogers Dana A. Christopher G. R Financial Advisor Advisor Financial Planning SpecialistSeniorFinancial Planning Financial Planning Specialist Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Financial Planning Specialist r Financial Advisor Financial Adviso Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate Vice President Senior Vice President Senior Vice President Vice President Senior Vice Preside Financial Planning Specialis t Lauren Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine rSchaefer-Bove Financial Advisor Adviso Financial t 100Machatine Middle Street, 3rdPlanning FloorSpecialisFinancial auren Schaefer-Bove Financial Advisor Zara Lauren Zarar M Financial Financial Adviso rAdvisor Financial Adviso Financial Financial Adviso r Rogers LaurenAdvisor Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine Christopher G. Steve Guthrie Christopher G. Rogers Senior Registered Associate Associate t Financial Planning Specialis Financial Planning Specialis t Client Service Portland, ME 04101 Steve Guthrie Financial Planning Specialis Financial Planning Specialis t t Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate enior Registered Associate Client Service Associate Senior Registered Associate Client Lauren Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine Senior Vice President Senior Vice President Dana A. Ricker Christopher G. Rogers Senior Vice President Vice President 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor Lauren Schaefer-Bove ZaraSenior Machatine theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com Vice President Senior Vice President Financial Advisor Financial Advisor Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate Financial Advisor Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate Financial Advisor Portland, ME Financial 04101 Lauren Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine Advisor Financial AdvisorSchaefer-Bove 100Machatine Middle Street, 3rd Floor http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ Portland Magazine is published byLauren Sargent Publishing, Inc. All cor­re­ Schaefer-Bove Zara Lauren Zara Machatine 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME Senior Registered Associate Service Associate Financial Planning Specialist Zara Client Portland, MEAssociate 04101 00 Middle04101.

Street, 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor Lauren Schaefer-Bove Machatine Senior Associate Client Service Senior Registered Associate Client Service Asso theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com Advertising3rd Office:Floor Street,Registered ME800-442-6722 165 State Portland, 04101.

Lauren Schaefer-Bove Zara Machatine 207-771-0800 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor (207) 775-4339. Repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased Lauren Schaefer-Bove theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com Portland, ME 04101 Zara Machatine with all04101 stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoic­ ortland, ME Portland, ME 04101 Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ Portland, ME 04101 http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ ing and payments, call Sarah Campbellton.

Senior Registered Client Service Associate 100 Middle Street, Associate 3rd Floor theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com 100 Middle Street, 3rd 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor Lauren Schaefer-Bove Machatine Newsstand Cover Date: May 2013, published in April, 2013, Vol. Floor theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com heportlandharborgroup@mssb.com theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 Zara 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 28, No. 3, copyright 2013. Portland Magazine is mailed at thirdPortland, ME 04101 Portland, ME 04101 Portland, ME 04101 Senior Registered Associate Client Service Associate http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857).

Opin­ ttp://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/thep ions expressed in articles are theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com those of authors and do not theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com 800-442-6722 100 Street, 3rd Floor 207-771-0800 represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to Middle the 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ editor are welcome and will behttp://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ treated as unconditionally as­ http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharb 00-442-6722 207-771-0800 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor 100 Middle Street, 3rd Floor signed for publication and copyright purposes and Portland, as subject to ME 04101

800-442-6722 207-771-0800 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 Portland, ME Portland, ME04101 04101 theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com theportlandharborgroup@ms.com theportlandharborgroup@mssb.com http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ http://fa.morganstanleyindividual.com/theportlandharborgroup/ 207-771-0800 800-442-6722 207-771-0800 800-442-6722 800-442-6722 207-771-0800

207-771-0800 Portland Magazine’s unrestricted800-442-6722 right to edit and comment edi­ torially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copy­ rights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be re­ printed in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with news­stand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 40 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.

MorganStanley StanleySmith and itsBarney Financial do not provide tax provide or legal tax advise.

Please consult yourconsult personal taxpersonal advisor tax regarding Morgan andAdvisors its Financial Advisors do not or legal advice.

Please your advisortaxation regarding and tax and planning and your attorney for personal trusts. This material has been for informational purposes only and notisan taxation tax planning and your attorney for personal trusts.

This material hasprepared been prepared for informational purposes onlyisand not an offer to buy or sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy or sell any security/instrument or to participate in any trading strategy. offer to buy or sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy or sell any security/instrument or to participate in any trading strategy.

Morgan Stanley Smith Barney and its Financial Advisors do not provide tax or legal advice. Please consult your personal tax advisor regarding taxation and taxStanley planning and your attorney for personal for informational purposes and is not an ©©2012 2012 Morgan Smith Barney LLC. Member SIPC.trusts. This material has been prepared GP11-01363P-N09/11 7049517only MAR009 03/12 Morgan Stanley LLC. Member SIPC. GP11-01363P-NO9/11 7049517 MAR009 03/12 offer to buy sell or a solicitation of any buy or selltax any security/instrument to participate in any trading strategy.

Morgan Stanley Smith Barney and its orFinancial Advisors dooffer nottoprovide or legal advice.orPlease consult your personal tax advisor regarding P u b l i sh i n g , i nc .

Morganyour Stanley Smith Barney and its Financial Advisors do not provide tax or legal advice.

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letters editor@portlandmonthly.com

Wedding party hearty

I think that I shall never see a cover As clever as the girls with brews All decked out for breaking news, Portland Mag's all-time best. Lover!

Anne B. Zill, Director, University of New England Art Gallery, Portland Pretty awesome beer photo!

Kai Adams, Falmouth That pic rocks!!

Heather Verrill, Cumberland Center I miss my bar.

Corey Brian Pandolph, New York, NY

Mean Poutine

I just read your article [“Français où Franco?”–April 2013]. Very nice! …I’ve forwarded it to others.

Lisa Desjardins Michaud, Centre Franco-Américain, University of Maine, Orono

Bygone Iran

Very interesting side story to the Argo movie [“AR(to)GO” –Winterguide 2013]. I have great memories of my time in Iran in the Peace Corps before the Islamic revolution.

Chef Sam was very generous to help out the Americans. Great to know that he has found a new home in Maine.

Jan Stenbak, Candia, NH 1 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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“If you fly this flag, birds won’t !$#%@ on your deck,” says Tania Umphrey of the Dori Pole Nylon Pennant System of Kalamazoo, Michigan.

Blackback gulls not included. $158, doripole.com

FEMME NOIR

hidden from view First time in the U.S.: Catch the opening of Shangaa: Art of Tanzania June 8 at the Portland Museum of Art, featuring 155 psychologically charged works of art deployed over two floors (shangaa is Swahili for “dumbfounded and amazed”). “They were kept in East Germany after the colonization of Tanzania [ruled by Germany from 1884-1918], and were later inaccessible in…private collections and museums behind the Iron Curtain,” says PMA’s Kristen Levesque. portlandmuseum.org –Rosalie Darrell

get nasty 18 portland monthly magazine

Novelist Gillian Flynn, 32, acknowledges Bangor’s Ben Ames Williams (1889-1953) as an influence on her work–particularly a movie adaption of one of his bestsellers, set in Maine and starring Gene Tierney.

Both “domestic thrillers” feature a deadly love triangle: A wealthy beauty in a very dark place who discovers her writer husband’s eye has been caught by a sweet young thing plots her own death to set him up to take the blame. Gone Girl (Random House, 2012; $25; under film development by Reese Witherspoon) is Leave Her to Heaven (1945) with disposable cell phones and the F-bomb.

Snoop through your neighbors’ gardens for a good cause at the 11th Annual Secret Gardens of Portland Tour June 15. Your flower-safari ticket comes with a map, directions, and descriptions of a dozen gardens in the North Deering and Rosemont neighborhoods. Tailor your selfguided route through some or all of them and bring questions: “This year we have a master of hostas–hundreds of them–and a lily specialist,” says Susan Lavigne of The Opportunity Alliance. If you’re lucky, some early nasturtiums (left). Proceeds benefit the Foster Grandparent and Senior Companions programs. $17.50 in advance. opportunityalliance.org

Clockwise from top left: Dori Pole Pennant System; file; courtesy portland museum of art; Crown publishing; 20th Century Fox Film Corp.; silver lining; courtesy Portland regency; 20th Century Fox Film Corp.; container gardening

tÍfs Gold Flipper

Here’s one you won’t throw back. This lobster claw charm, sparkles in brass and sterling in assorted sizes. Boothbay Harbor’s A Silver Lining pulls them up from the sea. $16–$32, asilverlining.com

Up on the Roof

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The Portland Regency staged three high-altitude flash soirées in 2012, with more planned for this summer. “Minimum of $200 to rent,” says Dave Davis, director of sales. “One for 50 people will crest $25,000.” Events for 60 to 80 people is the “sweet spot.” Talk about taking your upcoming office party to the next level! portlandregency.com

m ay

2013 19

SummerTheaterPreview Claire Z. Cramer

The Tardy Boys’ (Awesome) Adventure Two Buckfield brothers launch their high-energy variety act this summer in a new theater on Freeport’s Depot Street.

N

ow on stage, the Tardy Boys and their awesome adventure.

“It’s the only job we’ve ever had since middle school. I’m serious–we’ve never actually had jobs!”says Jason Tardy, 33, who’s just opened, with brother Matt, 31, Freeport’s new Theater of Awesome on Depot Street opposite Freeport Village Station. The brothers–14-year veterans of [the now defunct] Oddfellow Theater in Buckfield–have also toured as the Tardy Brothers. Today, the Buckfield natives live in Turner with their wives and small children.

“We’ve been performing together 20 years, with various acts. Our crazy AudioBody show, which gets booked into arts centers and the college circuit, is three or four years old. It’s a variety show with music 2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

and lights. It’s pretty big in terms of equipment. We used to just barely be able to cram all the drums and lights and other props into one trailer.

But a while back we were driving home across country from a show in North Dakota and we just decided we were never doing that again.”

Ironically, as they speak to us by cell phone, Jason and Matt are driving to the airport in Manchester, New Hampshire, bound for a show in St. Louis. But they’ve made their act more compact: “We’ve rebuilt all our equipment, including a 15-foot-wide drum set, 17 LED lights, the electronic jumpsuits we wear [to light up our lives],” and other surprises that would have gotten them hanged for being witches in the 17th Century. “Now everything fits into four checkable bags. “

courtesy audiobody/theater of awesome

Family friendly…with knives!

Still, they can’t stop their minds from sparkling with the idea of a roadshow that stands still. The Theater of Awesome is now home base for AudioBody and a venue for other traveling shows. Their old Buckfield Oddfellow colleague Mike Miclon brings his Early Evening Show several times this summer, and magician George Saterial will perform in June. “I’m also the agent for Eepybird–the guys with the Coke and Mentos. We do a juggling variety act, too.” Most shows are weekend evenings plus a matinee, much of the entertainment is in the family friendly category…with sharp objects.

“We’ve performed at the Easter Egg Roll on the White House lawn three different years. That’s really fun. They won’t let us bring our knives, but we get that!” n

Theater Acadia Repertory Theater, 1154 Main St., Mt. Desert. Shirley Valentine. Jul. 1-14; A Couple of Blaguards, Jul. 16-28; Cinderella, Jul. 3-Aug. 31; Unnecessary Farce, July 30-Aug.11; Agatha Christie’s A Murder Is Announced, Aug. 13-Sept. 1. 244-7260 acadiarep.com

Acorn Productions, 90 Bridge St., Westbrook. 12th Annual Maine Playwrights Festival, Apr. 25-May 5; summer acting classes. acorn-productions.org Arundel Barn Playhouse, 53 Old Post Rd., Arundel. The Andrews Brothers, June 18-29; Chicago, Jul. 2–13; Shrek the Musical, Jul. 16-Aug. 3; All Shook Up, Aug. 6-17; Always Patsy Cline, Aug. 2031. 985-5222 arundelbarnplayhouse.com

HACKMATACK PLAYHOUSE 538 School Street (Route 9), Berwick, Maine (207) 698-1807

“A SUMMER TRADITION SINCE 1972”

Belfast Maskers/Cold Comfort Theater, 9307090. The Boys Next Door; Almost ,Maine; The Fantasticks; USO Shows; 42nd Street. Call for dates and venues. coldcomforttheater.com Camden Civic Theater, 29 Elm St. Camden. You’re A Good Man Charlie Brown, summer; The Miracle Worker, fall. 236-2281 camdencivictheatre.com

Travel with us this summer to the moors of England, the Mountains of Austria, the Revolutionary streets of Paris and the dusty back roads of the American South as we present our 2013 Season:

The Hound of the Baskervilles

Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd. South Paris. Workshops & Residencies, Jun. 17-22; Joy of Phonetics, Jun. 24-29; Devising Intensive, Jul. 8-20; Neutral Mask, Jul. 22-27; Commedia dell’Arte, Jul.-Aug.3; Intro to Eccentric Performing, Aug. 5-10; Advanced Eccentric, Aug. 12-17; Interactive Performing, Aug. 19-24; Show Incubation Residencies, Sept.

2-28. 743-8452 celebrationbarn.com City Theater, 205 Main St. Biddeford. Legends, the Music of Judy Garland, May 17-26 ; 9 to 5, Jul. 19- Aug. 4; Annual Putnam Country Spelling Bee, August, 23-September. 282-0849 citytheater.org

June 21 to July 6

The Sound of Music July 10 to 27th

Les Miserables

July 31 to August 17

Driving Miss Daisy August 21 to 30

Curtain Time 8 p.m.

Matinee Thursday 2 p.m.

Chocolate Church Arts Center, 804 Washington

P O R T O P E R A

(Comedy Style)

Visit our Web Page www.hackmatack.org

P R E S E N T S

Giacomo Puccini’s

LA BOHEME WEDNESDAY

JULY 24

FRIDAY

JULY 26

MATINEE

SUNDAY

JULY 28

M E R R I L L AU D I T O R I U M

BUY YOUR TICKETS TODAY porttix.com Merrill Auditorium Box Office m ay

2013 21

SummerTheaterPreview

St. Call for summer schedule, tickets will be on sale by July 1. Bath. 442-8455 chocolatechurchcharts.org

Fenix Theatre Company, 17 Spear Ave S. Portland. Romeo and Juliet, July 18-Aug. 10.

865-6355 fenixtheater.com Figures of Speech, 77 Durham Rd., Freeport. Call for summer schedule. 865-6355 figures.org

Sponsored by: L.L.Bean | Maine Home + Design | maine | MPBN Acadia Insurance | United Insurance | The Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram

Freeport Theater of Awesome, 5 Depot St., Freeport. Early Evening Show, May 17-18; The Yo-Yo People, May 25-26; Ball in the House, June 1; Early Evening Show, Jun. 7-8; George Saterial, Magician, Jun. 14-15; The Tardy Brothers, Jun. 23 & 30, Jul. 14 & 28, Aug. 4, 11 &18; AudioBody, Fri. & Sat. during June, July & Aug. awesometheater.com

Illustration by Marty Braun

Frontier, Fort Andross, Brunswick. Call for summer schedule.725-5222 explorefrontier.com Gaslight Theater, 1 Winthrop St. Hallowell. No Sex Please, We’re British, Jun. 14-23; Picnic, Aug. 23-31; Promises Promises, Nov. 14-23. 626-3698 gaslighttheater.org Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 School St., Berwick.

Hound of the Baskervilles, Jun. 21-Jul. 26; Sound of Music, Jul. 10-27. 698-1807 hackmatack.org Heartwood Regional Theater Company, 420 Biscay Rd. Damariscotta. Macbeth, May 3-11; The Legend of Jim Cullen, Jul.-Aug. 563-1373 heartwoodtheater.org

Sponsored by: L.L.Bean | Maine Home + Design | maine PORTLAND Magazine | Portland Press Herald / Maine Sunday Telegram

Tickets: 774.0465 PROFESSIONAL THEATER MADE IN MAINE 2 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

www.portlandstage.org

Young Frankenstein July 10 - 27, Ogunquit Playhouse, Ogunquit, ogunquitplayhouse.org

from top: les Misérables/Cameron Mackintosh Overseas Limited; Young Frankenstein The Musical/paul kolnik

Freeport Community Players, Freeport Performing Arts Center, 30 Holbrook Rd., Freeport. The 39 Steps, Jul.Aug.; Indoor Outdoor, Sept.-Oct. 865-5505 fcponline.org

SEASON

2013

Summer Season 2013 SONG, DANCE & LAUGHTER A Sound Investment

THE ANDREWS BROTHERS June 18-29 SHREK THE MUSCIAL July 16-August 3

JUNE 22-AUGUST 18

CHICAGO July 2-13

MONMOUTH, ME

ALL SHOOK UP August 6-17

ALWAYS...PATSY CLINE August 20-31

53 Old Post Road, Arundel, Maine

Culture • Nightlife Legends • Style Seasonal Box Office: 985–5552 ••arundelbarnplayhouse.com Les Misérables June 26 - July 13, Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theatre, Brunswick, msmt.org

Lakewood Theatre, 76 Theater Rd., Madison. Pageant, Bingo the Winning Musical May 23-31; Self-Help, Jun. 6-15; The Game’s Afoot or Holmes for the Holidays, Jun. 20-29; The Pajama Game, Jul. 4-13; In Laws, Outlaws and Other People That Should Be Shot, Jul. 18-27; Footloose: The Musical, Aug. 1-10; Mama Won’t Fly, Aug. 15-24, Sherlock Holmes and The Adventure of the Suicide Club Aug. 29-Sept. 7; Too Many Cooks, Sept. 12-21.

474-7228 lakewoodtheater.org LA Arts, 221 Lisbon St., Lewiston. Call for summer schedule.782-7228. laarts.org Lyric Music Theater, 176 Sawyer St. South Portland.

Deathtrap, Jun. 21-30 799-6509 lyricmusictheater.org Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Deathtrap Jun. 21-30; Dreamgirls, Jun. 5-22; Les Miserables, Jun. 26-Jul.13; Gypsy, Jul. 12-Aug. 13, Mary Poppins, Aug. 7-24; Charlotte’s Web, Jun, 12; Cinderella, Aug. 19; Hair in Concert, May 17; Suzanne Nance & Friends, Jul. 29; Footlight Follies, Aug. 12. 725-8769 msmt.org Ogunguit Playhouse, 10 Main St. Ogunquit. The Rat Pack is Back, May 22-Jun. 8; Thoroughly Modern Millie, Jun. 1-Jul. 6; Mel Brooks’ Musical: Young Frankenstein, Jul. 10-27; Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, Jul. 31-Aug. 25; Ballroom with a Twist (nonseason tickets), Aug. 27-31; West Side Story, Sept. 4-Sept 28; Buddy, The Buddy Holly Story (non-season tickets), Oct. 2-20. 646-5511 ogunquitplayhouse.org Penobscot Theatre Company, 131 Main St. Bangor. Around the World in Eighty Days, May 15-Jun. 2.

942-3333 penobscottheatre.org Portland Players. 420 Cottage Rd. South Portland. All Shook Up, May 17-Jun. 2, Jesus Christ Superstar, Sept. 13-29; The Sound of Music, Nov. 22-Dec. 8.

799-7337 portlandplayers.org Portland Stage Company, 25A Forest Ave. Wittenberg, April 30-May 19; Little Festival of the Unexpected, May 13-18. 774-0465 portlandstage.org Public Theatre, 31 Maple St. Lewiston. Haiku, Hiphop & Hotdogs, May 19 . 782-3200 thepublictheater.org Schoolhouse Arts Center, Rte. 114, Sebago Lake Village. MOMologues 2: Off to School, May 10-19; 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, June; Music Man, July. 642-3743 schoolhousearts.org

City… Culture • NightlifeOur • Legends • Style

PROFESSIONAL THEATRE ENRICHING MAINE ENGAGING COMMUNITIES

Your Way!

Our City… Your Way!

On Newsstands Everywhere or Subscribe!

PORTLAND On Newsstands Everywhere or Subscribe!

TM

TM

Maine’s Maine’s N e w Award-Winning E nAward-Winning g l a n d ’ s N o rMagazine tMagazine h Star

775-4339• •www.portlandmagazine.com www.portlandmagazine.com (207)(207) 775-4339

Come to Boothbay Harbor and Celebrate our 10th Anniversary with a few of our favorites!

Dougie MacLean Portland String Quartet

Ellis Paul

May 16 May 23 June 15

John Ford Coley Paul Sullivan & Friends John McCutcheon

The Black Lillies

John Gorka

June 21 June 23 June 30 July 3 July 5

Jackson Browne

Jimmy Webb Delfeayo Marsalis

July 10

TICKETS $10 -$30 207.933.9999

www.TheateratMonmouth.org

July 21 July 26

Cherish the Ladies August 2 Maine Pro Musica August 8

Kathy Mattea

August 16

Over 100 performances in 2013!

Box Office 207-633-5159 boothbayoperahouse.com

m ay

2013 23

SummerTheaterPreview

Snowlion Repertory Company, Ludcke Auditorium, UNE Portland, 716 Stevens Ave, Portland. The Freaks Club, June 13-23. 598-9305 snowlionrep.org Stonington Opera House, 1 School St., Stonington. Hatty: A Play with Music, May 23-26, The Millay Sisters: A Cabaret, July 14; Shakespeare in Stonington: Cymbeline, Jul. 19-28; Live for $5!-Top Hat Toy Theater, July 25; Live for $5!-Fred Garbo Inflatable Theater Company, August 1. 367-2788 operahousearts.org Theater at Monmouth, 796 Main St., Monmouth.

Page to Stage Tour, Apr. 22 - May 24; The Legend of Finn MacCool, May 20-24; The Knight of the Burning Pestle, Jul. 5-Aug. 16; The Year of Magical Thinking, Jul. 26-Aug. 18; The Taming of the Shrew, Jul. 12-Aug. 18; Our Town, Jul. 19-Aug. 17; The Velveteen Rabbit; Jun. 21-Aug. 15; Patience, Sept. 19-30. 933-9999 theateratmonouth.org The Theater Project, 14 School St., Brunswick.

Voices in the Mirror, May 31-Jun. 2; Lafille At Tess’ Market, Jun. 21-30; Tales Of A Fourth Grade Nothing, Jul. 19-21; Boxers, A Collection of Shorts, Jul. 26-27; Treasure Island, Aug. 16-18. 729-8584 theaterproject.com Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St., Waterville. Let it Shine, May 4; Blithe Spirit, May 3-Jun. 9; The Race, Jul.5-7. 873-7000 operahouse.org Windham Center Stage Theater, 41 Carriage Hill Dr., Windham. For schedule, see windhamtheater.org –Compiled by Roux Lobozzo

2 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

! f l e s r u o y r o f e e s Come

May 22 – June 8

July 31 – Aug 25

June 12 – July 6

Aug 27 – Aug 31

July 10 – July 27

Sept 4 – Sept 28

Oct 2 – Oct 20

207-646-5511 OgunquitPlayhouse.org 10 Main St. (Rte 1) Ogunquit

goingson Datebook May

1

MAY DAY

2

Imani Winds Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:30 pm, Hannaford Hall, USM Portland $10 -$40

3

The Local Pour Tour Leaving from the Thirsty Pig, 37 Exchange Street, Portland.

Time : First and third Fridays of the month; 12:45-5 p.m.

Admission : $65/person www.visitportland.org

4 Bath Mayfair Bath, Maine, shopping, art, scavenger hunt, fun all day visitbath.com

Wittenberg by David Davalos Thru May 19, Portland Stage, $35-$44, students $20, portlandstage.org. Media sponsor: Portland Magazine

5

12

8

Rob Ninkovich Autograph session Sea Dogs v. Reading Phillies 6 pm, Hadlock Field, seadogs.com

mother’s day

13

14

Around the World in 80 Days opening night Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor 7pm, $22 penobscottheatre.org

Portland stage’s 24th annual Little festival of the Unexpected Opening night for a week of staged readings and post-show conversation. Take part in launching new American plays.

7pm, $10 portlandstage.org

19

15

9

10

The Colwell Brothers Duo 7pm, all ages Hoxter’s Music & Sports Bar, 122 Water St., Hallowell, Maine, 215-4815

National Bike to Work Day

Iris Dement Jonathan’s, Ogunquit, 8:00 pm $37.50, jonathansrestaurant.com

17

11

Alice in Wonderland Maine State Ballet, Merrill Auditorium, 7pm, $20-$40, porttix.com

18

Kite Festival Bug Light, South Portland11am-4pm Free

20

21

Pine Tree Marathon Back Cove Park,Portland 6am, newenglandchallenge.org

Portland String Quartet The Opera House Boothbay Harbor 7pm, $20 boothbayoperahouse.com

23 What Women Want Expo Fashion to furniture, cookware to cosmetics, Bangor Civic Center 10 AM - 4 PM free z1073.com

25

Memorial day weekend concert Maine St. Andrew’s Pipes & Drums, Colonial Pemaquid State Historic Site, New Harbor, 677-2423, friendsofcolonial pemaquid.org

Annual Doll Tea Victoria Mansion , 1pm, $15-$25, victoriamansion.org

27

28

David Beam & The Custom House Gang Blues and Bluegrass Andy’s Old Port Pub 8:00pm-11:30pm andysoldportpub.com

memorial day

Memorial Day Parade Longfellow Square along Congress Street. Ceremonies at Monument Square. 10:30 am

29

Benefit Night For Women in Harmony Flatbread Pizza, Portland 5-9pm , flatbreadpizza.com

2 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

30

31

Waltzing For Dreamers Stone Mountain Arts Center, Brownfield, 8pm, FREE stonemountainainartscenter.com Piscataquis Heritage hot air balloon festival.

Thru June 2 Airport Rd Dover-Foxcroft, 6am-6pm, $1 piscataquisballoonfestival.org

1

Acadia Birding Festival Four days of workshops, adventures & field trips.

May 30 - June 2 MDI, 233-3694 acadiabirdingfestival.com

top to bottom, line 1 from left: wittenberg.edu; Imani winds; file; 2: central restaurant; new england patriots; maine state ballet/bidding for good; 3: dreamstime; Corey Templeton; letsgorideabike.com; club and resort business; 4: Maine Irish Heritage Center/Victoria Mansion; attraction institute; fort william henry/Colonial Pemaquid; 5: timeanddate.com; foodspotting.com; file (2)

30

goingson Events Calendar

Music Asylum, 121 Center St., Portland. Karaoke, every W; 80s Dance Party, every Th.; Mason Jennings, May 10; Ryan Cabrera, Jun. 6; Aaron Carter, Jun. 29; Tesla, Jul. 1. 772-8274 portlandasylum.com Bayside Bowl, 58 Alder St., Portland. Jerks of Grass, every Th; MAMM Jams, Jun. 7.

791-2695 baysidebowl.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Traditional Irish Session, every Wed; In the Round with Shanna, Acheson Gown, May 17; Sean Mencher, May 18; Samuel James & Dana Gross, May 23; Bob Rasero, Trapparatus, May 24; Hattie Simon, Hardy Bros. Trio, May 25; Joyce Anderson, Lay-ZGait, May 30; New English Band, Conor Mulroy, Builder of the House, May 31; NYC Duo, Jun. 1; Jared Salvatore-Shannon Corey, OKBARI, Evan King Group, Jun. 7; Roving Soul, Jun. 8; Barn Swallows, Bluegrass Jam, Jun. 13; Welterweight, Jun. 14; Sean Mencher & Rhythm Kings, Mark Tipton Duo, Jun. 15; Lorem Ipsum, Jun. 20; In the Round with Shanna, Matt Meyer & Gumption Junction, Jun. 21; Hardy Bros. Trio, Jun. 22; Samuel James & Dana Gross, Jun. 27; Bob Rasero, Lincoln Allen Jazz, LQH, Jun. 28, Hee Hawk, Jun. 29. 774-4111 portcityblue.com

HARVARDPILGRIM.ORG/LUCYandETHEL

TO R E .

N K T C R A A PA YOUR B HAVE US IN. T N U O C SM

m ay

2013 27

goingson Events Calendar

Darling’s Waterfront Pavilion, Waterfront Park, Bangor. Motley Crue, May 16; Sting, Jun. 20; Darius Rucker, Jun. 21; Phish, Jul. 3; Mayhem Fest, Jul. 17; Barenaked Ladies, Jul. 21; Big Time Rush, Jul. 24; MPBN presents A Prairie Home Companion, July27; Miranda Lambert, Aug. 2; Kenny Chesney, Aug. 7; Larry the Cable Guy, Aug. 17; Toby Keith & the Mallett Brothers, Sept.

2. 1-800-745-3000 waterfrontconcerts.com Dogfish Bar and Grille, 128 Free St., Portland.

Acoustic Open Mic, every W; Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey, live jazz every F; Dapper Gents, May 16; Evan & the Silent Sams, May 18; Griffin Sherry & Ghost of Paul Revere, May 23; Bridge Walkers, May 25; Matt Meyer & Gumption Junction, Jun. 1; Shanna Underwood, Jun. 6; Sean Mencher & Rhythm Kings, Jun. 8; Evan & Silent Sams; Jun. 15; Dapper Gents, Jun. 20; Griffin Sherry & Ghost of Paul Revere, Jun. 27. 7725483 thedogfishbarandgrille.com Gingko Blue, 455 Fore St., Portland. Lorraine Bohland w/ Terry Foster, May 15; Gypsy Caravan, May 16; Black Cat Road, May 18; Hot Club du Monde, May 23; Blue Steel Express, May 24; Tommy O’Connell & Juke Joint Devils; Mike James’ Blue Lions, May 30; David Mello Trio May 31; Poke Chop & the Other White Meats, Jun. 7.

541-9190 gingkoblue.com

Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Tift Merritt, May 24; Judy Collins, May 25; Suede, May 26; Spyro Gyra, May 30; Ottmar Liebert & Luna Negra, Jun. 4; Buffy Saint-Marie, Jun. 14; Ben Taylor, Jun. 22; Black Lillies, Jul. 5. 646-4526 jonathansrestaurant.com Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland.

STOMP, May 15; Carnival of the Animals, May 19; Gov’t Mule, May 30; Celebration of Dreams, Jun. 16; Puccini’s La Bohème, Jul. 24; Elvis Tribute, Aug. 17. 842-0800 porttix.com One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland.

James McCartney, May 16; Heritage Blues Quartet, May 17; Putnam Smith, May 19; Decompression Chamber Orchestra, May 20; Portland Jazz Orchestra, May 23; Gibson Brothers, Jun. 1; Miss Tess & the Talkbacks, Jun. 15; Chris Smither, Jun. 22; Portland Jazz Orchestra, Jun. 27; Roy Book Binder CD Release, Jul. 11. 761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave., Boothbay. Scottish musician Dougie MacLean, May 16; Jonathan Scales Fourchestra, May 22; Portland String Quartet, Jun. 23; McAuley Horan & O Caoimh, Jun. 8; Ellis Paul, Jun. 15; Paul Sullivan, Suzanne Nance, Gordon Gottlieb & Sam Schwehm, Jun. 23; Tim Sample, Jun, 27; John McCutcheon & The Black Lilies, Jul. 3; John Gorka with Michael Johnson, Jul. 5; Cordis Quartet, Jul. 13; Frank Vignola & Vinny Ranio-

lo, Jul. 18 ; Jimmy Webb, Jul. 21; Delfeayo Marsalis & the New American Songbook, Jul, 26; David Wilcox, Jul. 27; Danny Beals Downeast Goodtime Hour & Half, Jul. 31; Maine Pro Musica, Aug. 7; Bill Harley Songs & Stories, Aug. 8; Francine Reed, Aug. 10; Ed Gerhard, Aug. 15; Kathy Mattea, Aug. 16; Livingston Taylor, Aug. 17 Bob Milne Ragtime Piano, Aug. 22; Eileen Ivers and Immigrant Soul August 23; Novel Jazz Septet, Aug. 29. 633-5159 boothbayoperahouse.com

State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. Melissa Ferrick, May 16; Iron & Wine, May 18; Andre Nickatina, May 18; Ra Ra Riot, May 24; Tommy Emmanuel, May 29; Bloc Party, Jun. 4; Moth Mainstage, Jun. 6; Calexico, Jun. 7; Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeroes, Jun. 9; Sinkane, Jun. 13; Lamb of God, Jun. 16; David Byrne & St. Vincent, Jun. 21; Melissa Etheridge, Jun. 22; Joan Baez, Jun. 26; Xavier Rudd, Jul. 21; Beach House, Jul. 31. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Road, Brownfield. Barn Burner with Jay Nash Trio, May 17; Blind Boys of Alabama, May 22; Tift Merritt, May 23; Recession Session with Thomas Snow, May 25; Aaron Neville, May 26; Toots & the Maytals, May 26 – 27; Waltzings for Dreamers, May 30; Stone Mountain Live with Heather Masse and Jaed Wilson, Jun. 1; Kelly Willis &

From pediatrics

And every scrape, x-ray, and

At Maine Medical Partners we want to be your partners for life. You deserve the excellence and reassurance that comes from doctors and staff that know you and your history. You also deserve the latest advancements in medicine, which is why we’re part of Maine Medical Center. So, whether it’s an office visit or a stay in the hospital, the attention will be centered around you.

Where Recycling has Always been in Style Bruce Robison, Jun. 5; The Wood Brothers, Jun. 8; Terrance Simien & the Zydeco Experience, Jun. 14; Rustic Overtones, Jun. 15; Waltzings For Dreamers with Gypsophilia, Jun. 16; Barn Burner with Girls, Guns, & Glory, Jun. 21; Ricky Skaggs & Thunder Up Close & Personal, Jul. 6; Corey Harris, Guy Davis & Alvin Youngblood Hart, Jul 12; Mavis Staples Up Close & Personal, Jul. 13; Lyle Lovett, Jul. 18; Barn Burner with Lake Street Dive, Jul. 19; Marty Stuart & Fabulous Superlatives, Jul. 26. 935-7292 carolnoonanmusic.com

Forget Me Nots

Galleries Art Gallery at UNE, 716 Stevens Ave., Portland.

Maine Women Pioneers III, through Jul. 21. 2214499 une.edu/artgallery Bates College Museum of Art, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. Senior Exhibition, Apr. 5-May 25; Recent Acquisitions, Apr. 6-May 25. 786-6259 bates.edu/museum Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath Road, Brunswick. Simply Divine: Gods & Demigods in the Ancient Mediterranean, Mar. 8-Jun. 2; Per Kirkeby, Mar 30-Jun. 16; Sense of Scale, Measure of Color, Apr. 4-Jun. 2; Unity and Fragmentation, Apr. 4-Jun. 2. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/art-museum Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Reopening with Alfond-Lunder

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Now accepting seasonal clothing and accessories 781-8252 U.S. Route One Falmouth, Maine

Tues–Fri 10–6 Sat 10–5 Sun 12–5

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to geriatrics.

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goingson Events Calendar

Family Pavilion, July 13. colby.edu Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland.

Every Picture Tells a Story–N.C. Wyeth Illustrations, thru Dec. 29; Andrew Wyeth–Her Room, thru Nov. 14; American Treasures, thru Feb. 2, 2014; A Wondrous Journey, thru Jan. 5, 2014 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Jun. 7, Jul. 5; Aug. 2. firstfridayartwalk.com Maine Historical Society Museum, 489 Congress St., Portland. Wired: How Electricity Came to Maine, through May 26. 774-1822 mainehistory.org

XANDER BOGAERTS

JACKIE BRADLEY JR. Photo by Dave Cleaveland/Maine Imaging

2013 SEASON 207-879-9500

FOR TICKETS

3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

SEADOGS.com

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. William S. Paley Collection: A Taste for Modernism, opens May 2; Shangaa: Art of Tanzania, Opens Jun. 8. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

Tasty Events Browne Trading Company, 262 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every first and third Sa, 1-5pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Flanagan Farm, 302 Range Rd., Buxton. Hugo’s Farm Land Trust Dinner: Benefit dinner prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland Trust, May 12, Jun. 23, Jul. 14. Flanaganstable.com

Unique Handcrafted Jewelry from the US & Canada 2 Mechanic Street, Freeport 207-865-3097 earringsandcompany.com

Come see the largest collection of casual furnishing & accessories in New England.

Choose from hundreds of styles available now in stock or custom order.

Windsor Sling by Tropitone

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by Lloyd/Flanders

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by Telescope

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Route 4 Berwick, Maine. 1-877-LOWERYS (1-877-569-3797) or (207) 384-5903. www.LowerysPatio.com Fax (207) 384-2077 m ay

2013 31

EllEn KornEtsKy, lCsW

goingson Events Calendar

Counseling specializing in:

Adoption ■ Attachment ■ loss & Transition ■ Relationships ■ Family issues ■

Portland’s only independently owned and family operated funeral home.

172 State Street, Portland • 773-6511 • ctcrawford.com

207-846-0400 ellenkornetskylcsw@gmail.com 10 Forest Falls Drive, #6-B, Yarmouth

Honor your family with a work of art Affordable, Locally Carved Maine Craftsmanship

Paul A. DiMatteo

220 Main Street (Route 1) South Portland 767-2233 (800) 540-7866 www.mainememorial.com

Certified Memorialist

3 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Cemetery Memorials since 1919

Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every third W, 4-7:30pm.

772-9463 oldportwine.com Salt Exchange, 245 Commercial St., Portland.

Bourbon tastings, first F of every month.

347-5687 thesaltexchange.net The West End Deli & Catering, 133 Spring St., Portland. Wine tastings every first F, 6-8pm.

874-6426 thewestenddeli.com Wolfe’s Neck Farm, 184 Burnett Rd., Freeport.

8th Annual Taste of the Nation Maine: benefit to fund Share Our Strength’s fight to end hunger, top local chefs prepare a fine menu, Jun. 23.

865-4469 wolfesneckfarm.org

Don’t Miss Maine Comic Arts Festival, 46 Commercial St., Portland. Writers, artists and publishers with featured guest, Jeff Smith, May 19. mecaf.blogspot.com Presque Isle Fairgrounds, 84 Mechanic St., Presque Isle. Mud Fest: food, ATVs, games, music, beer and mud wrestling, May 25. 249-9936

Stonington Opera House, 1 School St., Stonington. Savage Beauty book group, May 15; Rural Route Film Fest/Stonington Sardine Factory and the Women Who Worked There, May 16; Rural Route

Sugarloaf, 5092 Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley.

Sugarloaf Marathon & 15K, May 19; Untamed Adventure Race, Jun. 21 – 23; Senior Ladies’ Golf Tournament, Jul. 10-12; Nike Jr. Golf Camp, Jul. 21-25, Aug. 4-8; Coca-Cola Junior Championship, Jul. 28-31. 1-800-843-5623 sugarloaf.com

172 Route One, Falmouth | 207.781.5651

Framed Fishing Chart of Harbors, Bays & Islands, 50" x 16" $375 | Great Gift

Film Fest, May 22; Valerie Orth concert, Jun. 1; Gypsophilia concert, Jun. 8; Bud Carter Memorial Scholarship Concert, Jun. 22; PS, I Love Music with Paul Sullivan & Friends, June 25; The Hancock Quartet–Burnt Cove Church Community Center Chamber Concerts, Jun. 26-Aug. 31; Island Arts Camp Live for $5!–Grown, Jul. 11; Vacationland–Special Film, Jul. 11-12; Island Arts Camp, July 13; Samba Meets Jazz, July 24; Adrien Reju concert, Jul. 30; 13th Annual Deer Isle Jazz Festival: My Coma Dreams-Special Film, Aug. 2, 13th Annual Deer Isle Jazz Festival -Yosvany Terry Quintet, Aug. 3; 13th Annual Deer Isle Jazz Festival-Fred Hersch Trio, Aug. 4; Hymn for Her Concert, Aug. 7, Live for $5!–Bill Harley; Aug. 11; Guitar Masters-Concert, Aug. 13, Live for $5!– Maranacook String Band, Aug. 15; Bridgman/Packer Dance, Aug. 14-20; Live for $5! - Hilary Chaplain, Aug. 22; Poetry Evening, Aug. 24; Jonathan Edwards, Sept.

14. 367-2788 operathousearts.org

www.BradfordsRugGallery.com 297 Forest Avenue Portland, ME p: 207.772.3843 | f: 207.773.2849

Sunday River, 15 South Ridge Rd., Newry. Trek Across Maine, Jun. 13-16; Tough Mountain Challenge, Jul. 20; New England Forest Rally, Jul. 26-27.

824-3000 sundayriver.com –Compiled by Jeanee Dudley

SAINT JAMES

800-414-5144 66 Front St, Bath 32 Main St, Camden 20 Townsend Ave, Boothbay Harbor

oriental broadloom contemporary m ay

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I have to say it was the best experience I ever had buying a car from a dealership.

Shawn New Prius owner

Find out why more strumming Mainers buy their vehicles from Lee than any other dealer in Maine.

LeeAuto Mall leeauto.com

Planned Layover

Chowder A tasty blend of the fabulous, noteworthy, and absurd.

You don’t need to be Anna Kendrick to find love Up in the Air. MeetAtTheAirport.com is an online dating service for frequent flyers that boasts more than 70,000 subscribers “and it’s 100% free for everyone to use,” says founder Steven Pasternak. Beyond experiencing how your date‘s temperament handles an unexpected flight cancellation, “it would be a great pickup line: ‘Want to share a room?’” quips PWM’s Greg Hughes. Between flights, look for Kendrick as FBI agent Diana in The Company You Keep.

Northern Comfort

Clockwise from top left: cynthiafarr-weinfeld; paramount pictures; robert witkowski (2); courtesy Michael P. Carroll F. R. Carroll, Inc.; file; AP; USPS

Pretty in Pink

Lick ME

Hot pink cement mixer bombing down I-95?! “My mother’s a two-time survivor of breast cancer, and the driver’s mother is, too,” says Mike Carroll of F.R. Carroll, Inc., in Limerick. “We did it ourselves here at the shop. We have a lot of talented guys. My daughter made the bow–she’s an art major. It’s all paint, all airbrushed.

We thought it would spark some attention and awareness. It’s only been a few weeks, but people are stopping and taking pictures.” –Rosalie Darrell

A Portland Head Light “forever” stamp will hit the nation’s post offices July 13. Gilbert Roderick of Down East Stamps in Bangor sees the decline of civilization mirrored in postage stamp history.

“There are just too many of them.

You have to go back to the 1940s to find stamps that have any value.

The major problem is, young people don’t have the patience to sit down and play with stamps. They want instant gratification.” Even on Saturdays? –Rosalie Darrell

Higher Ground Yes, Virginia, somebody got famous before Judd Nelson for sticking his fist in the air (at the end of The Breakfast Club).

Olympic 200M gold medalist Tommie “Jet” Smith electrified the world in Mexico City in 1968 both on the track and on the podium. With bronze medalist John Carlos, his black-gloved gesture dramatized “human rights, liberation, and solidarity,” says Smith, who will sprint through Maine June 24-28 as a guest lecturer and coach at Bowdoin College’s Dick Fosbury’s Track Camp. 725-3010

It Started In…

What do you get when you cross restaurateur Taco Escobarr’s Tom Barr with NYC’s Damian Sansonetti, formerly of Manhattan’s starry Bar Boulud? The new craft sandwich shop Blue Rooster, on Dana St., cooks up Lonely Planet-worthy street-food fare with a gourmet twist.

Whether you order the Tot-Tine (poutine with tater tots) or the Junkyard Dog (wrapped in bacon, with chili, cheese, tater tots, and aioli, above), know that everything from the bread to the cured corned beef to the kraut is fait à la maison.

Named for bella Napoli in Italy, the pretty village we know as Naples embraced tourists from the start–with Henry Wadsworth Longfellow and Nathaniel Hawthorne among the rusticators. In 1899, the Bay of Naples Inn was designed by John Calvin Stevens for Charles Goodridge of the Sebago Lake, Songo Lock & Bay of Naples Steamship Co., to accommodate visiting passengers. With a view of Mt. Washington, the graceful showplace put an exclamation point at the convergence of Brandy Pond and Long Lake. Tourism remains today, but the inn, razed in 1964, does not. You can still get a decent pizza in Naples, though.

s e l p a N

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CommerCial ProPerty in lonfellow Square’S exCiting reStaurant Corridor

For Sale: 722 Congress Street

(Real estate Only) attentiOn investORs!

$385,000 • Fabulous long-term, triple-net tenant • Parking, parking, parking…front & back • Ideally positioned amid the array of new Longfellow Square bistros & attractions • Economical gas heating • Landmark location beside Neal Dow House • Al fresco garden terrace, deco lighting

To schedule a showing, call John Hatcher Keller Williams Realty • The Hatcher Group www.JohnHatcher.us • 775-2121

John Hatcher • www.JohnHatcher.us • 775-2121

Metropole

CafĂŠs of

Portland Suddenly, our curb appeal has jumped three orders of magnitude.

Come with us on this magical mystery tour.

cynthia farr-weinfeld

F r o m S ta ff & W i r e R e p o r t s

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Metropole FULL BAR

The only Authentic Thai Food in the Maine Mall area

(207) 347-3000 Fax (207) 347-3001

(207) 772-7999 Fax (207) 772-6999 571 Congress Street Portland, ME 04101

Across from Cross Jewelers Located in the Arts District

209 Western Avenue South Portland, ME 04106 Next to The Curtain Shop On the way to PWM Airport

• Fine Dining • Take Out • Free Delivery • Catering

M

uch has been made of Portland’s lofty position on the cuisine scene. Its emergence at the top has changed the way we think of ourselves. It’s been a self-fulfilling prophesy.

Because we’ve attracted so many talented chefs the foodies have come, which has attracted even more attention. This cultural shift means we are no longer just about clambakes and boiled lobsters–it affects what we read and what we write. It has launched many television programs and countless festivals. It has also changed our visual landscape. n

Previous Page: Boda excels at skewered treats like pork satay and shiitakes teryaki–and the ambiance makes it a natural for a first date.

(207) 767-3599 Fax (207) 767-4599

Authentic Thai Cuisine 435 Cottage Road and Local Favorite South Portland, ME 04106 Across from the Portland Players On the way to Portland Headlight

New! Full Bar.

✯✯✯✯ Review from Maine Sunday Telegram

www.thaitastmaine.com Vegetarian and Gluten-Free Menu Available

Top row, from left: 1. Green Elephant revels in the variety of vegetarian Asian cuisine 2. Pom’s Thai dynasty includes the Noodle House on Congress, home of the legendary Spicy Crispy Duck 3. David’s OpusTen is a glowing hive of delicious creativity 4. Sonny’s has the whole enchilada plus a few surprises like Maine lobster rangoons and house-made pasta shells; the bar is a hipster magnet 5. Coffee beans are wood-roasted at Speckled Ax Espresso.

Second row: 6. Eventide Oyster Co. is the place for lobster stew and oyster buns, and maybe that perfect plate of scallop crudo 7. Have a “hot and dirty” martini with a blue cheese olive to wash down your burger and o-rings at Shay’s Grill Pub 8. Sunday brunch with $4 mimosas and Sly Chi live has become a tradition at RiRa 9. A tasty tequila cocktail, the Mayan Ruins, pairs nicely with a burrito at Taco Escobarr 10. Find value vegan choices at crunchy Local Sprouts Coop.

Third row: 11. In the heart of the Arts District, Otto’s is just the spot to share a bacon, mashed potato, and scallion pizza 12. East Ender elevates pub food with two signature creations: lobster poutine and lobster nachos 13. Is it the “clear waters of Sebago Lake” that make a pint of Lake Trout Stout so good at Sebago Brewing Company? 14. Grilled lamb salad and a glass of zin at Congress Bar & Grill make a weeknight dinner treat 15. White Cap Grille presides over the crossroads of the Old Port at Middle and Market.

Fourth row: 16. At tiny, enchanted Bresca, even the shredded brussels sprouts sing 17. Maine-potato salt and vinegar fries dipped in chipotle mayo are a choice cocktail-hour nosh at Nosh Kitchen Bar 18. Petite Jacqueline’s silky chicken liver mousse spread on grilled baguette toasts is glorious with a glass of Côtes du Rhône 19. Spot the gorgeous prosciutto and arugula pizzas flying out of the kitchen every night at the Corner Room 20. Friendly neighborhood Downtown Lounge has half-price apps and $10 craft beer pitchers at happy hour.

Fifth row: 21. Sip a mango passiontini, catch a live set of the Juke Joint Devils (May 25), and try the new menu at Gingko Blue 22. You’ll go for the pork bun but you’ll stay for the noodles at Pai Men Miyake 23. Check out the neon fish tank at the Old Port Sea Grill before you settle in at the raw bar for a platter of Pemaquids 24. LFK is the headquarters of cool, with a burger everyone’s talking about 25. Lovable, bohemian Pepperclub’s globe-ranging dinners and Good Egg breakfasts have charmed Portlanders for decades.

3 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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2013 39

Photos 1-17: Rosalie Darrell; 18: Cynthia Farr-weinfeld; 19-20: Rosalie darrell; 21: Robert Witkowski; 22-23: Rosalie Darrell; 24:Cynthia farr-weinfeld; 25:Roasalie darrell

Overlooking Beautiful Boothbay Harbor

GREAT FOOD • GREAT DRINKS • GREAT VIEWS

GREAT PLACE TO STAY!

New - Suites!

Inside & Outside Dining

Rocktide Trolley

Comfortable Deck for Cocktails & Views of the Harbor

Tiki Bar

Indoor Heated Pool

633-4455 • 1-800-ROC-TIDE • (1-800-762-8433) • rocktideinn.com 35 Atlantic Avenue • Boothbay Harbor, Maine 04538

Hungry Eye

Wild or farmed? Atlantic or Pacific? Maineraised or jetted in from Scotland?

Omega 3 or Omega 6? by c l a i r e Z . C r a m e r

courtesy AquaBounty

Search for the

Alpha

Salmon

m ay

2013 41

Hungry Eye

–Ben Alfiero, Harbor Fish

4 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

I

t seems like only yesterday that salmon was all the rage–the surefire local seafood choice on every restaurant menu in the state, and the darling of home cooks for its ease of preparation. Restaurants dressed it up in local condiments–maple glazes, blueberry salsas–and salmon was as Maine as lobster and crab.

Nowadays, all commercially available Atlantic salmon is farmed. Fish farming is controversial. Opponents slam farmed salmon as anti-wild, unhealthy, and uncool.

The only way you will dine on wild Atlantic salmon is if you catch one yourself in a lake, per the rules, season, and catch and size restrictions of Maine’s Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (IFW). Wild Atlantic salmon–the kind that migrate from our inland waterways such as the Kennebec and Penobscot rivers to the sea–is endangered thanks to over-fishing practices, hydroelectric dams, and pollution of spawning grounds, so it is against the law to harvest.

“People may believe they are eating ‘wild Maine salmon’ in restaurants but this is so not true,” says Harbor Fish Market’s Ben Al-

fiero. “You cannot catch a wild salmon. Period. It’s like shooting a bald eagle.”

baby, I’m a real wild child

“Landlocked or ‘lake’ salmon are slightly smaller, exclusive to lakes and rivers, and legally fishable in inland Maine only per strict IFW rules for private anglers,” says David Boucher at IFW. Even if they’re less traveled, lake salmon “have a parallel life history to ocean salmon, so you can’t tell them apart by looking at them.”

Both types of the genus salmo salar start in Maine’s lakes and streams, but the restless ocean salmon surge out to the Atlantic as six-to-eight-inch smolts while the lake salmon hang back. When the ocean salmon return to spawn, they’re monsters–25 inches or longer–while the lake salmon never achieve this size. By restricting anglers to salmon below 25 inches, the migrating, spawning ocean salmon are effectively, even cleverly, protected.

As a further measure, to shield the youngest side of the life cycle in near-coastal bodies of water in northern Maine, the sportfishing season is limited to protect the migration of sea-run smolts into the ocean.

courtesy cooke’s aquaculture

“People may believe they are eating ‘wild Maine salmon’ in restaurants but this is so not true.

You cannot catch a wild salmon.

Period. It’s like shooting a bald eagle.”

On a Maine farm–Jennifer Hutchison at work alongside one of True North Salmon Company’s pens in Cobscook Bay.

what about the underdogs?

“Maine has supported the lake salmon population through stocking for 125 years,” says Boucher. “We operate hatcheries in nursery streams selected for ideal habitat, in spots like West Grand Lake, Casco, and Enfield, and then we distribute the stock (in trucks with special salmon tanks) to other suitable locations around the state.”

The Maine Department of Marine Resources (DMR) runs hatcheries in Maine, too, but these are for wild Atlantic salmon.

Despite the partial endangered species sta-

Why aren’t the wild salmon rejuvenating?

Look in the mirror.

“Everything humans do has an environmental cost.” tus legislated in 2001 and the complete bans on harvesting since 2009, DMR fisheries biologist Joan Trial says our wild Atlantic population is not rejuvenating, even with help from the hatcheries, even with all the laws protecting them. Her solution? Look in the mirror. “Everything humans do has an environmental cost.”

If you’re sure you’ve been buying wild salmon, consider: Wild salmon available to purchase and eat in Maine comes from the Pacific–Alaskan king, sockeye, coho, and steelhead, which are in the salmonidae family, but of the genus oncorhynchus. All of these have regulated seasons, too, and so are not always available on demand.

V

isit Maine’s Oldest Lighthouse

Portland Head Light 1791 The Museum & Museum Shop

Open Daily: 10am-4pm • June through October 1000 Shore Road located at Fort Williams, Cape Elizabeth, Maine www.portlandheadlight.com • 207.799.2661 Watercolor by Richard Anzelc

“A lake...is the earth’s eye.”

Henry David Thoreau

Salmon fishing in north everywhere

That’s where farmed salmon comes in. Fish and shellfish have been farmed in Maine since the 1970s; the industry is inspected twice per year by the DEP, FDA, and the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture (USDA).

In the past, frightening and, to some, scientifically unsubstantiated studies of the world’s aquaculture farms have reported that farmed fish are fattier than wild, they have up to 16 times more PCBs due to their diet of fish meal and plant-based meal that is inferior to a wild diet, they’re routinely juiced up with antibiotics, and they’re injected with dye to compensate for the deep cor-

(Continued on page 64)

See it aboard the Katahdin.

Katahdin Cruises on Moosehead Lake Sailing late June thru Columbus Day, Closed Sun. & Mon. Tel: (207) 695-2716 Fax: (207) 695-2367 PO Box 1151 Greenville, ME 04441

www.katahdincruises.com

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Future Town

Look across Back Cove to see how the new Midtown development will change our skyline. Climb aboard for a tour of Portland‌ mere months from now.

by J a m e s V. H o r r i g a n

4 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

COREY TEMPLETON (ILLUSTRATION UNOFFICIAL INTERPRETATION BASED ON PROPOSED DESIGNS OF PUBLIC RECORD)

Zeitgeist

W

hat’s new in Portland? The Rough Guide, Lonely Planet, or Fodor’s are helpful, but they can only tell you what’s here. I can tell you what’s not here–yet.

So ignore those air-conditioned buses, take a pass on the trackless trolley, and turn away from that hydra-terra vehicle about to splash into the harbor.

Instead, take a look at Future Town, what Portland will be like a few months from now.

Let’s start on Commercial Street in front of DiMillo’s. You can bring that fancy $5 hot dog you just bought across the street at the Blue Rooster. Just don’t get any artisinal sauerkraut on my upholstery.

First, let’s duck into Custom House Wharf. See that giant neon sign, the kind the guys on American Pickers would kill for? That’s where Boone’s Seafood Restaurant used to be. Dating back to 1898, Boone’s was a legend, one of the oldest restaurants in America. Until it went dark a few years ago.

But the old sign remains, and this summer it’s back, as Boone’s Fishhouse and Oyster Room, under the direction of restaurateur Harding Smith, who’s completely reinvented and rediscovm ay

2013 45

Zeitgeist

Outliers Café

Salvage BBQ & Smokehouse Portland Harborside

Star Match Building

65-85 West Commercial Street

JB Brown

Commercial Street View 09.25.12

Harborview Townhomes

Courtyard Marriott

ered the space as a high-concept, four-star attraction, on a par with his Front Room, Grill Room, and Corner Room. Talk about a Room with a view!

Take a look next door. That’s the Porthole, just reopened. Ken McGowan, whose family owns the wharf, has completely renovated the building.

Emerging back on Commercial Street, do you see the crowd behind us going into In’finiti Distillation and Fermentation? Don’t ask me about the accent in the title. Doesn’t matter. This place just opened a month or so ago, and it’s already one of the hottest places in town. Outflanking the brew pubs, In’finiti is our first “distill pub.” Eric Michaud, who owns Novare Res, is the visionary behind it.

As to who will drink there, how about guests from new Old Port hotels close by–the Courtyard Marriott on Commercial Street and the Hyatt Place on Fore and Union.

Now let’s turn right and head down Commercial past Ocean Gateway with its berthed cruise ship du jour. Can you feel it as you drive past the Residence Inn, Shipyard Brewery, and the new Bay House con4 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

In’finiti dominiums climbing the sky? This area’s starting to shimmer with promise. It’s almost breathtaking, watching Portland’s master plan as it crystallizes.

U

p ahead, Newbury Street Lofts has condos and commercial space in the works in several new buildings, transforming this ancient India Street neighborhood where Henry Wadsworth Longfellow was born.

Back on Middle Street and up Exchange Street, we see the old Press Herald building now metamorphosing into a boutique hotel with a fun new restaurant. Maybe sandwiches with a journalistic theme? I’d like a corned-beef Connor with Blethen bleu cheese and a side of Guttman slaw.

Down Pearl Street, past Phase II of Pearl Street Place apartments, we find ourselves flying through Bayside until it suddenly becomes Midtown, a constellation of high-rise apartments, condos, and a parking garage approved to shoot up.

Up the hill onto Congress Square, here’s the former Eastland Park Hotel, shapeshifting in front of our eyes into the Westin Port-

Hyatt Place

Boone’s Fish House & Oyster Room

land Harborview.

Heading west, here’s the trendy Longfellow Square restaurant area, with a newcomer about to be added. Due in September at the former Bubble Room Laundromat, Jay Villani is opening up a bakery for his restaurants, including, as we head down Congress Street, a new one across from Maine Med, Salvage BBQ & Smokehouse. The name is in honor of Portland Architectural Salvage, which occupied the same space, and in homage to the hardwood floor, salvaged from the old Sportsmen’s Grill, which was located next door.

Jay Villani, who brought us Local 188 and Sonny’s, researched many types of regional barbecue, before settling on Carolina-style.

I’ve had BBQ Texas-, Kansas City- and Memphis-style, but the “whole hog” of Carolina BBQ is tasty, unique to the area and one of the reasons why most nights there are lines out the door.

Double back and take State Street down to a right on York to check out Outliers, the chic new restaurant that erases the memory of Popeye’s saloon on the corner of Brackett.

It’s a great place to have a cocktail, gaze out

City image: courtesy Hoverflow

Danforth on High

clockwise from top left: roaslie darrell (2); courtesy westin portland harborside; cumberland county; Archetype (2); bayhouse; staff; east brown cow; robert witkowski; archetype; J.B. Brown & assoc.; rosalie darrell; j.b. brown & assoc.

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Bayhouse the front windows as the drawbridge goes up and traffic squeals to a halt. It gives Outliers the feel of Portlandia.

Take Brackett to Danforth and note the two new apartment buildings facing each other on either side of High Street. One of them is called Danforth on High. This place is pretty cool: 26 small condos with shared space. There’s a guest room, communal lounge and basement workshop. Best part of all? The condo association is buying two cars for all tenants to share, the type of thing that may become an even greater part of Portland’s future.

M

eanwhile, at 121 York Street, check out Redfern Properties’ Harborview Townhomes–seven condos. The ones on the top floors have a great view of the harbor.

Who’d have guessed that condos are coming back so strongly? If they’re the canary in the mineshaft and they’re quickening again, it’s incredibly good news to have this much new housing popping up on the peninsula. Living space in progress varies from places with a handful of units, like this,

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2013 47

Zeitgeist to one with plans for more than 600 market rate housing units spread across four towers of 10 floors each–that’s the Midtown development we saw earlier. Midtown’s first phase will be up to 190 apartments, a 700-car parking garage, and first-floor retail space.

Returning to the harbor along Congress, I’d like to mention that the signature, red-neon EASTLAND sign on the roof of the Westin Portland Harborside will remain. Better still, the grand ballroom will be brought back to its original 1927 splendor. This ball-

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room is a special place. Three U.S. presidents have spoken there, Charles Lindbergh dedicated its opening as the largest hotel north of Boston, Eleanor Roosevelt and her dog were turned away from there, and that’s where my wedding reception was held.

We could go on and on with this tour, but then I wouldn’t have space to mention that gratuities for your guide are never a mistake, and after all, a city coming into its own is all about the people who make it work. How else can I afford to patronize some of these places? Step lightly to the curb, and thank you very much. It's going to be a great summer. n

>>For more, visit portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2013/04/

N.C. W YETH Illustrations from the Brandywine River Museum

April 27–December 29, 2013

16 Museum Street Rockland, ME 04841 207-596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org Celebrating Maine’s role in American art N.C. Wyeth, The Hunter, 1906; oil on canvas, 38 7/8 x 26 5/8 in.; collection of the Brandywine River Museum Exhibition sponsors: Anna Mae and George Twigg III The primary media sponsor of this exhibition is Maine Home + Design

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Portland.

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Visit portlandmaine.com for all you need to know. m ay

2013 49

Happy Campers Recreational Vehicle (RV) travel is beyond a moving experience. The real magic happens when you’re standing still. By

By Co Colliin n W. W. SSa arrg geen ntt

That’s it! I’ve had it.

I’m renting an RV. 5 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Mt. Desert-BHCR

road warrior

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road warrior

T

Previous page: “We run the whole gamut, from newlyweds to the nearly dead,” says Laura Bamford of Mt. Desert Narrows luxury campground, nine miles from Bar Harbor. “They run from rustic campers pitching a tent to people looking to be pampered. The photo (previous page) shows one of our 33 direct oceanfront sites at Mt. Desert Narrows, with views across the water to Trenton.

Those 33 sites are $77 to $85 a night during the high season, from June 15 to Labor Day. From May 15 to June 14, they cost $44 to $46 a night. Same for after Labor Day to Columbus Day.” In all, there are 232 managed sites at Mt. Desert Narrows. “People love our canoe launch, where we have rental canoes and kayaks.” Mt. Desert Narrows is part of a luxuriant portfolio of recreational destinations, “including Narrows II, which has resort-cottage rentals as well.” Just the spot for pan-fried brook trout on a bed of baby spinach with lemon butter and capers and a bottle of Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc.

*

5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Above: Cape Neddick Oceanside Campground, above, 63 Shore Rd., Cape Neddick, 363-4366. This enclave is handy to Ogunquit and York beaches, and 10 miles to Portsmouth, New Hampshire. But you can stay put and make it pasta night–linguine with fresh clams steamed open in a garlicky wine saute, crusty bread, and a local lettuce salad. A bottle of icy cold Italian Kris pinot grigio and you’re good to go.

*

Baker of the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association, Reston, Virginia. “With an RV, you’re really the captain of your destination.

You can stop where you want, change your itinerary. Airlines are costly, and the experi-

ence is a hassle. They’re oversold, overbooked. The trend toward luxury RVs has been building for a long time.”

BEGINNINGS

My new life takes off when I first start driving my rented Sunseeker 24. As I take a few spins around the parking lot of Seacoast RV on Route 1 in Saco to see what I’m in for, my preconceptions drop away. The amazing thing is, with every inch you drive, the size

from top: grays ocean camping; etravelmaine.com

ired of airport gropings and luggage searches by overzealous members of the TSA? The whole sense of air travel has lost its charm, its Chanel No. 5 fragrance. As a former Navy pilot, I used to love the miracle of flying so much…Eastern, TWA, Pan Am. Do you remember when Delta was Delta? Now that Southwest is the one herding us into the new economy, you’d better laugh when the flight attendants do their insult-comic routines, unless you want a Diet Coke spilled on your lap.

Well, I’m mad as hell, and I’m not going to take it anymore! Happily, I’m not alone.

As airports continue to tighten security, “Consumers cite the freedom and flexibility of recreational vehicles (RVs),” says Bill

Above: Gray Homestead Oceanfront Camping, 21 Homestead Rd., Southport, 633-4612. “We’re just across the bridge from Boothbay Harbor,” says Suzanne Gray. “We have a beach and a pier. It’s $50 a night to park right on the ocean.” Also, “we’re just eight miles from Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens.” Talk about a visual double whammy. For our dinner-wine pairing, we recommend Maine free-range chicken with new potatoes and steamed chard from a farmer’s market. Open a bottle of Cloud Line pinot noir from Oregon and fire up the grill for the chicken.

*

of the vehicle–at first enormous in your mind, almost Grand Canyon large–gets smaller and smaller.

Behind me is a king-sized bed; a generous cherry kitchen with oven, microwave, gas burners, and refrigerator that’s open 24/7; and best of all, banquette dining beside luxury observation windows as large as an Amtrak dining car’s.

Exploring Maine’s coast during our week-long ($1,235) get-to-know-you session with our moving living room, we feel a thrill of freedom as we pull up to any number of incredible ocean views, a prelude to candlelit dinners (sirloin steak, mushrooms straight out of Mastering the (Continued on page 71)

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2013 53

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Hidden Maine

Lazy Man’s Shipwrecks Sometimes you just feel like a wreck.

chris riccardo

by co l i n W. s a r g e n t

The wreck of the D.T. Sheridan on Monhegan Island is a much visited and photographed landmark. The 105-foot steel tug hit the rocks in November 1948, with no souls lost. Rockwell Kent’s serene 1949 oil painting of the beached Sheridan (see next page) now resides in the Portland Museum of Art’s collection. Kent’s Monhegan former studio/home, which he built himself, surveys this wreck from above.

The shingle cottage is now owned by Jamie Wyeth.

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Hidden Maine

W

This...

...NOT This!

Short Sands Beach, York:–”There are 66 known shipwrecks off York,” according to Leith Smith, historical archaeologist at the Maine Preservation Commission. This distinctive skeleton only appears on Short Sands Beach once in a great while after a storm, most recently this year in early March, when the Portland Press Herald revealed the following tale: The first exposure was in 1958 after a nor’easter eroded four feet of sand from the beach. Initially romanticized as a Viking ship because of the tapered stern (not to mention New England’s Viking hysteria, featuring multiple claims of rune stone discovery), it was ultimately determined to be a pinky sloop or schooner. Pinkies, with their tapered sterns, were popular from 1750-to-1850.

5 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Clockwise from top: portland museum of art; scott throp; MGM; file (2)

hat becomes a “lazy-man’s shipwreck” most? The quintessential example used to be the Hesper and the Luther Little in Wiscasset. A generation of diners at Le Garage remembers seeing these two lumber schooners hauled up in full view on the other side of the large observation windows. When the ships finally collapsed into a heap of debris the town had no choice but to remove, their absence was so magnificent, and so acutely felt by sentimental observers, they still look for them when they walk into the restaurant. Which brings us to this story. If you don’t

Research a Great Retirement Former Washington DC area residents who own a summer farmhouse in Waldoboro, Carolyn Bryant and Don Sarles bought a cottage at Thornton Oaks in early 2010 as their winter home.

Carolyn says “Bowdoin College provides a fine library that I can use for musicological research (though officially retired, I’ve continued editing and writing for Oxford University Press). The local public library has also been extremely helpful in finding abstruse journals and scholarly books for me.” Don, a long-time choral singer, has joined an excellent choir.

“We especially appreciate the strong sense of community at Thornton Oaks. We have formed close friendships and feel very much at home.”

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2013 57

Hidden Maine feel like scuba-diving or fathoming the seas with fiber-optic cables, what easy-to-view shipwrecks exist today?

When a March 2013 storm laid bare a swath of York Beach, the sole (the outline of a ship at its waterline) of an ancient vessel was exposed to viewers amid the retreating sands. Something else came to light as well– this wreck had come to light here before... in 1958, the very year MGM released The Vikings, starring Kirk Douglas, Tony Curtis, and Janet Leigh. And Freud says there are no coincidences. Was this the sole of a Viking ship? Spurious (or real?) rune stone discoveries were already creating a sensation from along our coast to Martha’s Vineyard, giving rise to hotels named The Viking (there’s still one in Newport, Rhode Island) and, in Ogunquit, the ice-cream smorgasbord

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Tours of Bath Iron Works* Lighthouse River Cruises P&S historic shipyard Victorian-era Donnell House Fishing schooner Sherman Zwicker Shipbuilding & nautical demonstrations 7 family friendly exhibits 20-acre waterfront campus Open daily 9:30 to 5 *Reservations required. Tickets and information available online.

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“We know it‘s a schooner,” says shipwreck scholar Zach Whalen, who worked with archaeologist Franklin Price studying the wreck at left, in Seal Harbor within Acadia National Park. “But chances of finding the name are slim. There are just so many wrecks around here. We know it was 120 to 150 feet, in use late 1800s to early 1900s, and there are so many repairs on it that we can assume it was a granite schooner.” He explains,”When a fishing boat got old, they’d use it to transport lumber. The junkiest boats were stone transporters–if you sunk with a load of stone, at least you wouldn’t lose a good boat. This one’s location suggests it was intentionally beached for repairs and then abandoned, though.” This wreck is visible only at dead low tide.

“August 11, 1897 was a bad, bad night–foggy!” according to a firsthand account written in 1967

by Emma Bray David. “The Howard W. Middleton, strongly built of white oak and yellow pine… had left Philadelphia with 894 tons of coal [bound for] Portland, Maine. Captain Shaw was trying to make Richmond Island Harbor to lay over till morning. Instead, he ran onto that rock near the mouth of the Spurwink…On August 12, she was declared a total loss…People began to pick up coal on the beach by the buckets and barrels. Mrs. Kenney remembers that her father drove over from Westbrook with a cart and got two tons of coal for winter.” This account appears among a wealth of Higgins Beach history with photos on the Remax/Oceanside website higginsbeachproperties.com. Realtor/historian/Higgins Beach dweller Steve Seabury discovered a framed copy of the Middleton shipwreck recollection on the beach house wall of a friend whose late mother just happened to be Emma Bray David. For the past 15 years, Seabury has been a volunteer photographer/chronicler of Higgins Beach for Maine Sea Grant’s ongoing beach erosion study, so he knows the wreck (below) and the beach–and the erosion–like old friends. “We had dunes that used to go out that are now Bay View Avenue!”

“I’ve known you for years. Everyone says you were beautiful when you were young, but I want to tell you I think you’re more beautiful now than then. Rather than your face as a young woman, I prefer your face as it is now. Ravaged.”

from top: Bill trotter/bangor Daily News; Rich Bard

–Marguerite Duras, The Lover (1984)

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Hidden Maine

“That’s the wreck of the Dandelion in Biddeford Pool. We think it was around the year 2000,” says Sherry Poftak, historian for Friends of the Wood Island Lighthouse, in Saco Bay just east of the Pool. “It was a home-built oak boat, wrecked on Wood Island in a storm. Then, in 2007–remember that Patriot’s Day storm?–the storm picked it up off the end of Wood Island and moved it right into the Pool. I got a phone call. Someone said, ‘Sherry, you’ve got to come look at this’! Of course, everything’s been picked off her now, even the engine. She was a pretty little boat, too. A little dandelion was carved on either side of the bow. Any time there’s a wreck on Mile Stretch, people come and strip it. I saw a guy out there a couple of years ago with a chainsaw.”

“I looked in all directions, as far as I could stare over the wilderness, and away at the sea… there was some kind of superannuated boat, not far off, high and dry on the ground…it was a real boat which had no doubt been upon the water hundreds of times…That was the captivation of it to me.” attraction known as The Viking, where Bintliff’s now holds sway.

Knee deep in the hoopla, Mainers’ imaginations went technicolor. The tourism! Could we really have discovered our own Viking ship! Bearded sages traveled to examine the discovery, including (naturally) the popular historian Edgar Rowe Snowe.

No, she wasn’t a Viking ship, but probably a pinky. Crushed, a generation of Maine children hung up their Viking horns and returned to their coonskin caps.

Which goes to show, seeing what you

6 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

want to see is half the fun of stumbling onto a shipwreck in the eel grass.

The appeal of shipwrecks is their deathly perfection through imperfection. Burnished to a mesmerizing patina across years of storms, they remind us to stop for a minute and contemplate weathered beauty among the silvery planks of all that lost potential. As observers we ourselves become, beyond simply mourners, Receivers of [the] Wreck. n

>>For more, visit at portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2013/04/ shipwrecks-extras

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– Charles Dickens, David Copperfield (1849)

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Barnacle Billy’s, known for luxury lobster, steamed clams, large lusty drinks, barbecued chicken, homemade clam chowder & of course, the lobster roll & lobster stew. Features an extensive indoor & sundeck seating where guests can enjoy both the beauty of the harbor & the ocean beyond. Perkins Cove. barnbilly.com, 646-5575 Brea Lu Cafe has been serving up breakfast & lunch for 23 years! Favorite menu choices include 12 specialty omelets, build-your-own breakfast burritos, Belgian waffles with fruit, eggs Benedict & homemade corned beef hash. Lunch features homemade chili, fresh made-to-order sandwiches, burgers & wraps. Open daily, 7am-2pm. 428 Forest Ave., Portland, 772-9202 Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious scratch-made sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days 11:30am-1am. Kitchen closes at 10pm. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com DiMillo’s On the Water serves the freshest lobster, seafood, Black Angus cuts of beef, Italian fare & more. DiMillo’s offers fabulous views of the water in Portland Harbor from every table, Famous Lobster Rolls, clam chowder, haddock chowder, lobster stew & delicious salads.

Serving from 11am. Commercial St., Old Port, 772-2216, dimillos.com Eve’s at the Garden takes a fresh and local approach to food. We use ingredients from Maine’s coastal waters and farms: jumbo scallops, naturally raised pork and beef, sustainably raised fish and shellfish, and Maine lobster. Outdoor dining in our serene garden all summer long. Free valet parking with dinner.

Lunch 11:30-2, dinner 5-9:30. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, Evesatthegarden.com

Kennebunkport Marina 207.967.3411 67 Ocean Avenue Kennebunkport Maine 04046 kennebunkportmarina.com

Our master marine mechanic is now operating – right here on the river!

We’re a full-service marina that boasts a mechanic with 20 + years’ experience, a Mercruiser Master Certificate and a host of other engine manufacturing certifications.

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6 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Fish Bones American Grill A casual upscale restaurant offering creative American cuisine.

Specialties include grilled wheat crust crostones, unique entrée salads & creative dinner offerings.

Located in the heart of Lewiston in the historic Bates Mill Complex with off-street parking. Come get hooked! Lunch & dinner M-F; dinner only Sa; closed Sunday. 333-3663, fishbonesmaine.com * Great Lost Bear A full bar with 70 beer taps of Maine & American Craft breweries & a large Belgian selection. Menu features salads, burgers, a large vegetarian selection & the best nachos & buffalo wings in town.

Discover where the natives go when they’re restless! Every day 11:30am-11:30pm. 540 Forest Ave., in the Woodfords area of Portland, 772-0300, greatlostbear.com Hurricane Restaurant’s lunch and dinner menus feature the finest seafood on Maine’s coast seven days a week. Enjoy $10 off every bottle of wine on Wednesdays. Sunday Brunch ‘til 3:30 p.m. and Buck-a-Shuck oysters every Sunday night. Discover our award-winning

restaurantreview Diane Hudson

wine list, house-made pastries, signature cocktails, and extraordinary five-star New England Cuisine. Dock Square, Kennebunkport, 207-967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com Lotus Chinese and Japanese Restaurant We feature full-service bar and lounge area, sushi bar, Chinese traditional food not available outside of Boston, friendly atmosphere and courteous service. 251 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth (Falmouth Shopping Plaza), 781-3453 Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available.

Open daily, 12-10. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter Morency.

Pier 77 has a formal dining room w/stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, w/its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com * The Pepperclub/Good Egg Café Two favorites, same location! Pepperclub’s (see Frommer’s Guide to N.E.) world cuisine blackboard menu lists five vegetarian, three fish & three meat entrées, including an organic beef burger. Relaxed, affordable dining on the edge of the Old Port. Free parking.

Pepperclub, daily from 5pm; Good Egg Café, Tu-F 7-11am, Sa-Su 8am-1pm. 78 Middle St., 772-0531, pepperclubrestaurant.com

diane hudson

The Salt Exchange features Contemporary American cuisine in moderate portions using local, sustainable, and heirloom ingredients.

Fresh local fish & produce daily. Full bar, Happy Hour, sidewalk seating. Open for Lunch M-Sa 11:30am & Dinner 5:30pm. Free parking in the evening. 245 Commercial St., Portland, 347-5687, thesaltexchange.net Silly’s & Silly’s with a Twist, chosen “Best Bargain” by Yankee Magazine now features something for everyone, including weekend brunch along with vegan & gluten-free options.

Silly’s staff, voted “Best Service” by Phoenix readers, presents all-scratch kitchen food in a whimsical setting either inside or in the garden patio. Open Tu-F, 11am, and Sa-Su, 9am. 40 Washington Ave., 772-0360, sillys.com Walter’s Chef Owner Jeff Buerhaus is inspired by global influences. Seasonal menus, accented by creative daily specials, are complemented by Walter’s extensive wine list and inventive cocktail creations. The comfortable dining room and vibrant bar create a casually upscale atmosphere. Lunch M-F 11:30am-2:30pm, Dinner M-Sa, 5pm-CL., Bar menu M-F 2:30pmCL, Sa 5pm-CL. Two Portland Square on Union St., 871-9258, waltersportland.com *reservations recommended

Ciao, Enio!

A trattoria power couple returns.

H

ow many restaurants can fit onto Portland’s peninsula?

Rachel’s Wood Grill was among the early birds to fly from the Old Port to Woodford Street before owners Bob and Laura Butler left Maine altogether.

They’re back! Welcome to Enio’s, a former bakery the Butlers have transformed, dazzlingly, to 36 seats and an Italian theme.

We start with one of the Jar offerings, chicken liver pate with balsamic glaze ($6). A delightful presentation, the spreadable goodness is easily–and quickly–scooped out of its pretty container, onto flavorful, lightly grilled bread. The tasty glaze makes it unique.

We ask Bob to suggest a bold Italian red, and he graciously offers a couple of tastes.

Cantele Salice Salentino from Puglia ($25) is the perfect earthy accompaniment we’d hoped for.

Passing over Little Bites that include puff pastry calzoncini with a beef and taleggio cheese filling ($5), we move into Small Plates. Friends at a neighboring table (you are bound to see folks you know at this fine neighborhood haunt) convince us to give a calamari saute ($13) a try. We do, and you should, too. Sauteed to perfection and wonderfully not chewy, its flavors are resplendent with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, red and yellow pepper slices, scallions, red onions, and crunchy croutons.

We skip Bowls, although the seared scallops and lobster ravioli in a lobster bisque ($24) certainly beckons, moving on to Plates.

For once we are not in a tussle over who

Enio’s Eatery, 347 Cottage Rd., South Portland .

Tues.-Sat. 4-9 p.m., closed Sun. & Mon. 799-0207.

gets what.

Beef tenderloin, two rounds of gorgeous meat seared just as my partner likes it– rare–is served with excellent hand-made beef ravioli, sauteed mushrooms, and a full-flavored gravy ($23). My half-rack of lamb ($20) is a revelation. Juicy, tender, still reddish pink while being nicely browned, the flavor of the meat could not be better.

The side of mashed potato and parsnip is nothing short of genius as is the surrounding balsamic reduction.

After such a successful meal, missing dessert would be downright sinful. We share the custard tart with berries ($7.50).

A winner yet again. Whipped-creamtopped custard sits on perfect pastry, covered in strawberries, blueberries and a jaunty sprig of fresh mint. Next time it will be the pear crumble topped with bourbon mascarpone. n

>> Visit Restaurant Reviews at portlandmonthly.com/ portmag/category/reviews.

M AY

2013 63

Hungry Eye Alpha Salmon (continued from page 43)

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al color that a wild diet provides naturally.

To which Sebastian Belle, director of the Maine Aquaculture Association, says, “Maine salmon farming has evolved considerably from its early days, but it’s still dogged by misinformation and now-outdated studies.” He takes a breath and individuates his words: “Maine [farmed] salmon is an excellent low-fat protein containing about the same extremely minimal PCB amounts as wild salmon–10 or 12 parts per billion.”

In fact, he and his group are stunned by the way urban myth has washed over everything and given Maine salmon such incredibly bad press. “Maine farms have not routinely used antibiotics in eight years,” he says, frustration evident in his voice.

“Their feed contains synthetic carotenoid nutrients and ground shrimp shells when available to replace what wild salmon get from eating krill (larval shellfish) in the wild.” Salmon require the carotenoids for vitamin A to live, and while they do contribute to salmon’s rich coral color, the nutrient is neither toxic, a dye, nor is it injected. “A lot of information circulating about contamination in farmed salmon simply doesn’t apply to Maine, where pen rotation and cleaning is now routine and growth enhancers are illegal.

Maine-farmed salmon contains about the same extremely minimal PCB amounts as wild salmon–10 or 12 parts per billion.

“We are permitted by three different agencies, with up to 14 state and federal departments allowed input. Most of the world’s salmon farming is done in other countries with less stringent standards.

“We’re tested twice a year, and non-compliance would result in up to three ways for a farm to have its license revoked–they could deny a lease and order the immediate removal of the pens from the water, deny the permit to stock the pens, or revoke the federal permit from the Army Corps of Engineers,” says Belle.

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license revoked? “Historically, yes, but not since the early eighties.” The non-profit Maine Aquaculture Association’s membership includes “82 to 90 percent” of all the shellfish, finfish, and fish-feed farmers in the state. “Remember, we’ve learned a lot. When we started out 30 years ago, we

Only one other state besides Maine (Washington) even farms salmon. were trying to do it right but we didn’t know as much as we do now. Hey, we are stewards of the animals we grow. We would not advocate for or accept as a member any proposed farm that didn’t comply with our standards.”

So where is the small, local, Maine salmon farmer who sells to small fish markets in the manner of our state’s celebrated farmers markets, cheese makers, and poultry and cattle farmers? The “consolidation trend,” as Belle calls it, has taken them all down.

big fish in a small pond

Meaning Canada’s Cooke Aquaculture Company, operating as True North Salmon Company, of Black Harbour, New Brunswick, which owns all of Maine’s salmon farms in Cobscook Bay, and off Machias and Jonesport. Cooke also has salmon farms in the Bay of Fundy, and processing facilities (for gutting and filleting) in Machiasport as well as New Brunswick.

“Glen Cooke bought his first Maine salmon farm in the late eighties,” says True North’s marketing director Andrew Lively. “Because pens are harvested in a rotating schedule that coincides with the life cycle of the fish–two years to raise the fish, and then one year to leave the pen fallow to rejuvenate the site–some small Maine salmon farmers found it easier to sell than to deal with the economics of sites kept empty for a year.”

At any given time depending on the harvesting schedule, True North’s fresh salmon sold in Maine may come from Maine or Canada, or both countries. This explains why there are times when the seafood department at Hannaford might have no Maine farmed salmon for sale. USDA Coun-

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Hungry Eye try of Origin Labeling (COOL) requirements dictate that the country where “significant processing” took place determines the country of origin on the label.

the omega men, omega women

Then there is the Omega 3 issue. Salmon contains a significant amount of this necessary, fatty acid and polyunsaturated anti-inflammatory that lowers the risk of cardiovascular disease among other benefits. Wild and farmed salmon both contain beneficial amounts of Omega 3, which varies at any given time depending on food consumed, water temperature, and maturity of the fish.

Omega 3 counteracts the non-beneficial, inflammatory Omega 6 found in the corn, soybean, and safflower prevalent in the average processed Western diet. Wild salmon consumes an all-seafood diet in the wild, while the farmed salmon is fed fish meal and fish oil mixed with plant-based proteins.

To the anti-salmon-farm lobby, plantbased additives are an Omega 3-diminishing disaster; to salmon farmers it is simply diet management to raise what is still very

Once a USDA organic standard is adopted, any imported farmed salmon calling itself organic will have to comply with it. healthy, Omega 3-rich food. “Wild salmon must hunt, kill, and consume seven or more pounds of seafood to gain a pound of weight, but the less active farmed salmon only needs to consume a pound or two. Fish meal and oil are limited resources, and the plant protein that’s added is tailored to the sedentary life,” Belle says.

facts clear the waters

“The soy and vegetable protein added to fish farm feed is oil that is extracted from the

plant; it’s not filler,” says Dr. Ian Bricknell, director of the University of Maine’s Aquaculture Research Institute. “It does not deplete Omega 3.”

As proof, Bricknell offers a study in the January 2007 journal Environmental Science and Technology that concludes farmed Atlantic salmon is a richer source of Omega 3 (2.34 grams per 100 gram fillet) than other farmed or wild salmon (.39–1.17 grams per 100 gram fillet). And the February 2013 Journal of Environmental Science & Technology includes a study revealing that men and women who consumed two portions of farmed Atlantic salmon per week improved their Omega 3 levels–and lowered their Omega 6 levels–to levels associated with decreased risk to cardiovascular disease.

“Everything we do is designed to reduce stress on the fish,” says True North’s Andrew Lively. “The best quality food and water circulation keeps them healthy. We have four veterinarians on the staff. You can’t cut corners, overcrowd the pens, or use growth hormones because Mother Nature wins in the end. It doesn’t work.”

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Inquire

Heated debate

Once the benefits of farmed vs. wild start getting weighed, watch out. Isn’t there a benefit to be had from fresh seafood that only traveled from Machiasport instead of thousands of miles on a jet from the Faroe Islands? (The Faroes are north of Scotland, halfway between Norway and Iceland in the North Sea, under the sovereignty of Denmark, with a salmon farming fishery.)

Is the perceived health benefit of wild Pacific salmon worth the energy cost to bring it from Alaska?

“As a fishmonger, I don’t take sides on it,” says Nick Branchina at Browne Trading on Commercial St. “As an employee of Browne Trading, I just want to make sure the quality of the product matches our legacy.” Browne Trading carries farm-raised salmon from Scotland, which Branchina finds better suited for the cold-smoking done in the store, and farmed king salmon from New Zealand. He feels the smaller, organic, boutique suppliers he deals with use “better farming practices,” such as fewer fish in the pens and rigorous cleaning and pen-

“When Hannaford calls to place an order, that fish is still swimming. It takes at least a week for a farmed Scottish salmon to get here.” rotating standards.

But Sebastian Belle of MAA points out that Cooke Aquaculture has also adopted the (terrestrial) organic practice of pen rotation, the fish feed is routinely tested for contaminants, and their pen populations are not overcrowded. The Maine DEP tests the waters around the pens twice a year for waste contamination, which would be cause for license revocation.

The USDA does not yet have a national organic certification standard for aquatic

farming the way it does for terrestrial farms– Belle says he has been active for years in the process to change this. Once a USDA organic standard is adopted, any imported farmed salmon calling itself organic will have to comply with the USDA standard, not the organic standard of its native country, which might not be as high.

“Our farming standards in Maine and the Bay of Fundy are as good as or better than any standards in other countries,” says Lively. “And as far as quality, I’d rather have salmon that was harvested yesterday to eat today. When Hannaford calls to place an order, that fish is still swimming. It takes at least a week for a farmed Scottish salmon, even if it’s every bit as good, to get here. We have great clean water here, and this is where these salmon are from. It’s their natural environment–we didn’t bring them here.”

Conscientious farming practices, strict health regulations, fresh, local fish–so why is the reputation and quality of farmed Maine salmon so utterly undistinguished?

“Believe me, we know this,” laughs Live-

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Hungry Eye ly. “We are trying to raise our profile. We sponsor Harvest on the Harbor’s salmon cook-off every year. We’re the largest employer in Washington County, but we know we need to do more to get the word out.

We’re working on it.”

Salmon farming is big business worldwide. Cooke Aquaculture may seem like an empire because it dominates Maine’s salmon farming industry. But Chile, Norway, and other European countries produce about 83 percent of the world’s farmed salmon, with other countries, including the US’s mere two percent, making up the remaining 17 percent. Only one other state besides Maine (Washington) even farms salmon. Ducktrap River of Maine, the Belfast-based smoked seafood company that began as a Maine fish farming operation in 1978, is now owned by the Norwegian company Marine Harvest. The Atlantic salmon that Ducktrap is smoking these days comes from the Norwegian company’s salmon farms in Europe and Chile.

Still, as with Cooke Aquaculture, imported salmon and non-US companies are adding up to Maine jobs.

The internet is full of earnest opponents to big aqua-biz, such as the Global Alliance Against Industrial Aquaculture, Fishyleaks. org, and Salmonfarmmonitor.org. There is no question that it takes tons of small fish to feed all those farmed fish, and that this depletes the oceans of species at the low end of the food chain. It is likely that not all the plant-based proteins being used worldwide in fish feed are rigorously tested for contaminants, and that there is likely some abuse of antibiotics for production benefit somewhere in the world. There are probably overcrowded, unsanitary pens someplace with less commitment to standards than Cooke Aquaculture and the Maine Aquaculture Association. But without farmed seafood, isn’t it likely we would wipe out the wild, species by species? Aren’t we lucky that Maine’s salmon farming industry is so strictly regulated?

On its website, the World Wildlife Fund states, “Our goal is for both wild-caught and farmed seafood to be harvested with zero environmental impact while still meeting the increase in future demands.” Isn’t this the wishful, wistful goal for all of us? n

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Art of French Cooking, asparagus tips, and red wine, along with rashers of bacon and eggs and heavenly fried red tomatoes with orange juice), parked in front of astonishing vistas we’ve never really gotten to see before. Not like this. There’s seeing and then there’s really seeing–on our terms, not somebody else’s.

Now this is more like it!

What’s the value of lavishing time on yourselves and letting your dreams just float over lakes and ocean views while you rediscover Below: Moorings Oceanfront RV Resort, 191 Searsport Avenue, Belfast, 338-6860 . “We have 8 oceanfront sites for $67 a night,” says Susan Varisco . “Ocean ‘view’ is ten dollars less. The campground is also situated so “you can go anywhere [in Maine] and come back in a day.” Special events occur on the campground as well as Papa J’s and the Lobster Bar restaurant on the grounds. There are lobster bakes and “every Friday from 5pm to 6pm we have happy hour with beer and wine for free!” Freshly caught and picked crabmeat from the cold waters of Penobscot Bay can’t be beat–how do crabcakes with homemade tartar sauce and fresh picked sugar-snap peas sound with a glass of Blanco Nieva Spanish verdejo?

from top: robert Witkowski; mercedes-benz; Moorings Oceanfront RV Resort

*

real time? Slow down and enjoy a second cup of coffee, because you’re not going to miss your plane.

Driving this trend toward RVs is the notion that there’s something retro about RV travel (think Airstreams, or luxury Class B Road-Trek Agiles), not to mention romantic (with imaginary set designs from the movie Niagara), with no one telling you your Canon D-3100 is a neutron bomb or your shampoo bottle is too big.

You might ask, don’t you get honked at, driving this gigantic thing? Across 1,200 miles of travel, I was only honked at three times in my RV (well below my average– for commuter jaunts I have a bumper sticker, “Honk if you like my driving”).

Another gush of freedom, and that’s what the zen of RV travel is all about: the

Bar Harbor Campground, 409 State Hwy. 3, Bar Harbor, 288-5185. “They’re the closest campground to downtown Bar Harbor,” says the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce’s Ron Robel.

Stunning sunrises and mystical sunsets bookend perfect Acadia days from 25 oceanfront RV sites. Arrive early to pounce on the perfect spot since all are firstcome, first served. Beyond the Frenchman Bay view, swimming pool, indoor plumbed bathrooms, hot showers, and laundry, the campground has a free library and video-game arcade for travelers waiting to take the Island Explorer into town or to hike or bike Acadia. Mainely Meat BBQ and Udder Heaven Ice Cream Retreat are next door, and Pirate’s Cove miniature golf across Route 3 channels your inner Jack Sparrow. If you visit in late July into August, blueberries are literally ripe for the picking along the walking paths meandering through the campground’s numerous fields. This is the place for a blueberry pancake breakfast with real Maine maple syrup.

*

TV in my Sunseeker isn’t connected to cable but instead has a loop antenna that pulls in a surprising amount of stations anywhere I drive, all for the reasonable monthly rate of zero.

Say you pull over to see Portland Head Light and want to watch a quick episode of Bewitched. You can receive Channels 6, 8, and 13, along with a sequenced array of Downton Abbeys on various PBS stations. Try ME-TV on Channel 51-2 for That Girl at 8 a.m. on weekdays. Nonplussed? At many campgrounds there’s cable along with electric power, water, and wi-fi. It’s so easy to connect!

Take back your life. Take back nature (during this week we’ve seen at least 40 deer, multiple eagles, a coyote, eyes bright on a lonely road just after midnight). Please take a moment to consider the dreamy RV stops in Maine we recommend, along with our food/view pairings. If this seems too rosy a testimonial, here’s a big negative: You can’t take an RV to Bermuda*. (Actually, you can. Visit www.autoferry.com) n

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house of the month

After she survived the Titanic sinking, socialite Madeleine Astor, 19, came here to mourn her newlywed husband, John Jacob Astor IV; play a little tennis; and raise their child. Her astonishing Bar Harbor cottage, La Selva, is another survivor–yours this summer for $2.3 million.

Viva La Selva

By B r a d E me r s o n

O

nly a few grand ‘cottages’ of Bar Harbor’s era as a glamorous summer resort survive. One of the most famous, La Selva, is for sale. Its story is quintessentially American, a serial whose installments might have been written by Howells, Wharton, or Fitzgerald.

La Selva (selva is Spanish for jungle or forest) was built in 1902 for Andrew Jackson Davis, a successful coal operator from Wilkes-­ Barre, Pennsylvania. His big payday came in 1900, when he sold the mines to the LeHigh Railroad and retired to enjoy his new fortune.

The family had summered in Northeast Harbor, but now they set their sights on Bar Harbor, where they felt the scenery was even finer, and where in the company of some of America’s most prominent families–Morgans, Vanderbilts, Pulitzers, McCormicks, and Livingstons–their marriageable daughters would be launched in society.

LOVE AMONG THE RUINS–La Selva, looking more than a little bit haunted; harsh elements and neglect are well on their way to reclaiming the jaunty checkerboard tile patio.

7 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

m ay

2013 77

jennifer kearns

A YEAR TO REMEMBER–From top: John Jacob Astor IV and second wife Madeleine’s honeymoon grand tour made history when the couple’s return trip on Titanic’s maiden voyage ended in tragedy–the pregnant bride was rescued from the foundering ship while her husband perished; the Astors, driving in New York; their film personae (Eric Braeden and Charlotte Chatton) meet fictitious shipboard lovers Rose (Kate Winslet) and Jack Dawson (Leonardo DiCaprio) in James Cameron’s 1997 Academy Award-winning film; lowering the lifeboats in another scene from the movie; top left, the John Jacob Astor action figure was a tasteless by-product of the blockbuster film phenomenon; the demise of Titanic’s grand staircase would lead to the opulent comfort of La Selva for grieving young mother Madeleine in 1913 and again as a bride-to-be in 1916.

7 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Clockwise from top left: ebay; file (2); 20th Century Fox/paramount pictures (2); courtesy brad emerson (2); titanic museum

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r. Davis purchased shorefront property on Eden Street and selected noted Boston architects Andrews, Jacques and Rantoul, who’d dreamed up many of Bar Harbor’s finest cottages, for the design. Robert Andrews had begun his career in the office of H.H. Richardson and was considered the chief inheritor of the great man’s tradition; partner Herbert Jacques maintained a summer home in Bar Harbor, convenient to the firm’s clients.

Mansions in an array of styles were rising all along Eden Street. With a slight whiff of Colonial Revival and a soupçon of French château, La Selva was three stories high and over 100 feet long, with more than 20 rooms.

Nevertheless, the cottage was smaller and more intimate than many of its neighbors.

At the entrance, a stone porte-cochère provides shelter as one embarked from a carriage. On the ocean side, the main rooms open to a terrace with broad steps sweeping down rolling lawns at the edge of the bluff, anchoring the house to its site. The main rooms–library, dining room, music room, and living room, have fine woodwork–ele-

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Know Your Direct descendents of the original “Four Hundred,” Nick and Jackie Drexel are active in New York’s society scene. She’s the daughter of John Jacob Astor VI (Jakey), and he’s the descendant of Philadelphia banker A.J. Drexel, who hired a young J. Pierpont Morgan–leading to the firm known as Drexel, Morgan, and later J.P. Morgan Chase. Consistent with their families’ historic wealth in real estate and banking, Jackie, formerly with Sotheby Parke Bernet real estate, is a broker at Manhattan’s Stribling Associates, and Nick is an investment banker.

John “Nick” R Drexel IV (b. 1945) married Mary Jacqueline “Jackie” Astor (b. 1949)

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Enzo Fiermonte was a professional boxer (45w-13l) who became an actor in American film under the screen name William Bird.

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Madeleine Force (1893-1940) married Astor already pregnant with J.J. VI.

from top: panacheprivee lucxury real estate; ebay; courtesy jennifer kearns; dailyexpress.co.uk; file

Gertrude Gretsch (b.1923), Jakey’s third wife.

Astor Family Asta (1931-1959), faithful fox terrier of high society’s Nick & Nora Charles in Dashiell Hammett’s The Thin Man film and TV series.

Why even bring him up?

house of the month

While no blood relation to the Astors, Tony Marshall was accused of mismanaging his aged, ailing mother Brooke Astor’s finances, including millions in cash, property, and stocks. Marshall’s son Philip filed suit to remove him as guardian of Brooke’s estate, alleging mistreatmentandfinancialimproprieties.J.P.MorganChasequestioned Brooke’s mental capacity and a transfer of $3.4 M and Cove End, her Northeast Harbor estate, to Tony. Marshall was tried, convicted, and sentenced to 1 to 3 years in 2009; he remains free on appeal.

Clockwise from top left: clockwise from top left: waldorf-astoria hotel; MGM; titanic.com; living copenhagen; en.academic.ru; file; americanhistory.si.edu; 20th Century Fox/paramount pictures; file (2)

Anthony “Tony” Dryden Marshall (b. 1924), is the son of Brooke and John Dryden Kuser of New Jersey. Tony became stepson of Brooke’s second husband Charles H. “Buddy” Marshall, whose last name he adopted at age 18.

The Waldorf-Astoria’s original location (on the Fifth Avenue site of the Empire State Building) began as two hotels: one owned by William Waldorf Astor, whose 13-story Waldorf Hotel was opened in 1893, and the other by his cousin John Jacob Astor IV, who opened the Astoria Hotel four years later and four stories higher; both were demolished for the 1930 erection of the Empire State Building. The present building at 301 Park Avenue in Manhattan is a 1931, 47-story Art Deco landmark designed by architects Schultze and Weaver.

John Jacob “Jakey” Astor VI (19121992), Titanic survivor (in utero)

Vincent Astor (1891-1959), Col. Jack’s first-born son.

Roberta Brooke Russell (19022007), Vincent’s third wife.

Brooke divorced Kuser in 1930, shortly after he was elected to the New Jersey state senate, and married Charles Marshall two years later.

Vincent quit Harvard to take over the family business at 20. A year older than Madeleine, he blamed her for his father’s death and did not acknowledge his half brother.

Jakey sued the late Vincent’s estate, and angered Brooke. He settled for $250,000.

As a widow, Madeleine and her newborn son retreated to La Selva (left) in Bar Harbor the summer of 1913. She returned for her second wedding to William Karl Dick in 1916.

John Dryden Kuser (1897-1964), Brooke Astor’s first husband.

Mary Astor (1906-1987), born Lucile Vasconcellos Langhanke in Quincy, IL–No relation

The Astor mansion on Fifth Avenue was the New York home of John Jacob Astor IV. When he died, it was inherited by his wife Madeleine and newborn son Jakey. Per a provision in her late husband’s will, the mansion reverted to Col. J.J.’s first-born son, Vincent, when she remarried.

John Jacob “Col. Jack” Astor IV (1864-1912), considered the richest man in the world.

Ava Lowle Willing (1868-1958), John Jacob IV’s first wife.

Ava Astor divorced John Jacob IV in 1909 and remarried as second wife to England’s Lord Ribblesdale, returning to New York as a widow in 1925.

After her son Vincent inherited the bulk of Col. Jack’s’s wealth ($100 million, $2.4 billion in today’s currency) to become the richest man in America, Ava left most of her estate to her four grandchildren by her daughter, Ava Alice Astor (Muriel).

Dave Astor (1919-2011), host of The Dave Astor Show (For Teenagers Only), Maine television’s version of American Bandstand. No known relation…

John Jacob Astor IV escaped on a European honeymoon with his second wife, the former Madeleine Force, to avoid the scandalous exposure that his 19-year-old bride was already with child. He perished on the Titanic, but not before securing Madeleine, five months pregnant, in a lifeboat that was rescued by the RMS Carpathia. With his death, the newlywed widow inherited the Fifth Avenue mansion and a widow’s trust of $5M. –RobertWitkowski m ay

2013 81

house of the month

PROS

CONS

•Talk about a palace with a backstory!

•Structural condition suspect

•Great bones and the flair of a French chateau, •Not even an Astor could afford to keep courtesy of Andrews, Jacques & Rantoul. this place up!

•20 rooms, 5 bedrooms, 8,677 square feet

•In need of paint

•7 Fireplaces

•No A/C

•Patio’s gorgeous

•Patio’s a disaster

M

adeleine Force had summered in Bar Harbor since childhood. In 1910, her debutante year, she caught the eye of John Jacob Astor IV, twice her age and recently divorced, visiting Bar Harbor on his yacht. Courtship followed, and in 1911, they were married. The honeymoon was spent aboard Astor’s yacht Noma, with the press in hot pursuit all the way to Bar Harbor. Less than a year later, the Astors were aboard the Titanic, returning from Europe. John Jacob Astor went down with the ship, and Madeleine 8 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

jennifer kearns

gant, not ostentatious. There are also kitchen, pantries, and servants’ hall. Upstairs, five of the master bedrooms open to balconies overlooking the bay. On the third floor, more master bedrooms and five maids’ rooms give scope for one’s innermost Downton fantasies.

Mr. Davis died in 1910, and La Selva was leased for several seasons. We forget that society figures commanded media attention 100 years ago just as they do today, only with less dilution by pseudo-celebrities, Real Housewives, and smart phones. La Selva’s next occupant was such a celebrity.

JUNGLE LOVE–The Bar Harbor of the Davises, Astors, and Thomases is just a memory. La Selva is now sagging and peeling, but her majesty is unmistakable. Above, life imitates art: a derelict room evokes the regret and dignity of an Andrew Wyeth painting.

Astor, not quite 20 years old and pregnant with her first child, became one of the most famous women in the world. That summer she paid a quiet visit to Bar Harbor as the houseguest of Mrs. Alexander Cassatt (sister-in-law of the painter Mary) and made arrangements to lease La Selva. Mrs. Astor arrived for the next season with her sister, young son, her maid, and eight trunks of luggage, and resumed normal life despite the press lurking beyond the high stone wall of the estate. She dined out, played tennis– handily winning several tournaments–and a New York Times social column gushed over her costumed depiction of a Gainsborough portrait for a charity tableau vivant.

In 1916, Mrs. Astor renounced her $5 million widow’s trust ($103 million in today’s money) to marry banker William Dick, a childhood friend. The press went wild and each day stood by the stone lions guarding the gates, dispatching announcements that the wedding was nigh, that the wedding had been delayed, that the wedding would be at “La Selva, Mrs. Astor’s palatial estate at Bar Harbor.” It was almost an anticlimax when 20 guests gathered for the event at the little Episcopal church nearby.

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2013 83

h o u se o f t h e m o n t h

A

fter the new Mrs. Dick departed, banker-diplomat Leonard Thomas leased La Selva. His wife, the former Blanche Oelrichs of Newport, wrote under the nom de plume ‘Michael Strange’ and was considered by painter Paul Helleu to be “the most beautiful woman in America.” Headstrong, given to dramatic gesture, self-absorbed, and restless with her life as a society wife, Strange embarked on a career as an actress. When she was cast opposite John Barrymore in a production, sparks flew and the two embarked on an

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Can a house die of loneliness?

Visit La Selva and you’ll find noble rot and eternal magic from the piazza to the Juliet balcony.

“Jack Pelletier of The Anchorage Motel in Bar Harbor owned the house since l’Ecole Arcadie closed,” says listing agent Veena Gaines of Acadia Cornerstone Real Estate. He died January 18, at age 75. “Two of his sons, Jay and Evan, live in Bar Harbor, and his daughter, Jill, lives in Portland. The Pelletiers stopped staying here four or five years ago.”

Inside the entertaining spaces, the lid of a Rose Medallion tureen rests atop a faded directory of long-disconnected Bar Harbor land lines. Off the kitchen, a big wicker basket labeled “Hermitage” in brushy black summons memories of the French School, still pervasive in its absence. Poignantly, the principal residents of La Selva are some lovely ghosts and a recently relocated “raccoon.”

But it wasn’t always this way. Gaines pulls out a 1970 yearbook showing The French School in its heyday. Because it isn’t just about the Astors and the Gilded Age here. From 1959 to the mid-1970s, this internationally famous retreat immersed 13- to 19-year-old summer students in continental French.

Flipping through the pages, we stop at photos of a literary conference featuring novelist Marguerite Yourcenar (Memoirs of Hadrian, widely considered

jennifer kearns

affair. This was still a secret that summer at Bar Harbor, but it would become scandal when she left her very proper husband for Barrymore, with whom she had a daughter out of wedlock. But that was still in the future.

1917 was the summer of suffrage. Carrie Chapman Catt, the president of the National American Woman Suffrage Association and later the founder of the League of Women Voters, came to town to fan flames for women’s voting rights. The grand ladies of Bar Harbor society organized a parade, with suf-

frage banners waving as their limousines glided down Main Street. After the public rally, Mrs. Thomas hosted a private rally for le haut monde at La Selva. Mrs. Catt spoke on “Woman Suffrage and Democracy,” and celebrated checkbooks flew open for the cause.

As her marriage unraveled that summer of 1917, Blanche Oelrichs Davis blamed her poetry, not her affair. Years later, in her memoir, Who Tells Me True (Charles Scribner’s Sons, New York, 1940), she looked back on that summer:

one of the top 100 books in any language in the world), the first woman ever elected into the French Academie. Beside her on the divan is Michel Butor, the French structuralist genius who inspired Roland Barthes; and Edouard Morot-Sir, who brought the Mona Lisa to The Met in 1963. La Selva also hosted Parisian concert pianist Mme. de Sanzéwitch and novelist Helen Hull (1888-1971), an honorary trustee of the school whose 17 books about hidden lives and young women daring to express themselves in the early Modern Age are in vogue again.

The summer faces of students above the Madras sport coats and Mary Jane collars framed in page-boy haircuts evoke a melancholy wistfulness.

La Selva cries out, “Where are my charges now?”

The most eminently Googlable name we find is Tom Karnofsky, 57, whose residence is listed in the yearbook as exclusive Larchmont, New York. Turns out, he’s been in Bar Harbor all along.

“Yes, I went to the French School,” Karnofsky says at the other end of the receiver. Then there’s a pause. Karnofsky departs regular time and enters what M. M. Bakhtin calls “great time,” where past, future, and present flow into each other. Shangri La and La Selva flourish in great time.

“I haven’t been down that hill in 30 or 40 years, though I drive by it every day.” Maybe he’s afraid it’s changed? “I was 13 or 14. Or was it 16 or 17? I went there for a summer or two. My dad was assigned nearby, to the biological lab on Salisbury Cove, so we stayed in a cottage there. I used to drive my Boston Whaler to school every day, weather permit-

ting. I was a horrible French student, so the immersion part was a little uncomfortable for me. That’s why my mom sent me there; I’d taken it four or five years and it didn’t really take.

“They told us if they caught us speaking English, we’d be dismissed.” The administration icily bragged that two voluble offenders had already been shown the door.

“Boys stayed overnight in [La Selva], while the girls stayed next door in [the Italianate mansion now owned by firearms magnate William Ruger].

But what I really remember is…There was this girl named Ori Harris, who I had a terrible crush on. She lived in New Rochelle, the next town over, so I had this fantasy of seeing her over the winter. She was a couple years older than me.”

While Karnofsky, now a residential construction expert, doesn’t remember seeing Marguerite Yourcenar, he’s since become a fan. “Memoirs of Hadrian is one of the best books I’ve ever read in my life. You feel her talent with every sentence, every line.”

The school nurtured Karnofsky’s yen and zen for the arts. “I lived for a couple of winters in San Francisco, where I studied with Ruth Ziporah. That’s where I studied theater improv. I haven’t had a whole lot of time for that for a couple of years.

When the television show America’s Funniest People came to Maine, I was one of three people selected for that, in 1991, 1992. Or was it 1992, 1993?”

As for who the potential buyer for La Selva might be, Gaines says, “It will take somebody with unlimited vision and deep pockets. Mr. Ruger next door has a first right of refusal.” Will he who performed such a spectacular resurrection of his mansion “East of Eden” give “La Selva” a shot? Or, wouldn’t La Selva be the most booked-into-thenext-century bed and breakfast ever, right on Frenchman Bay? Think of the theme restaurant as you let your mind slip into a cool tiffin of vichyssoise and a glass of wine on the piazza.

“Somebody wanted to make a B & B out of it but got a full ‘No!’ from the town,” Gaines says.

“The right buyer is out there but just hasn’t shown up yet. The raccoon said, ‘If you guys are not going to love it, I will.’”

– Colin W. Sargent

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h o u se o f t h e m o n t h “I remember one night in Bar Harbor before I was to have an operation for appendicitis, that I had a pianist come in to play modern French music. I wasn’t particularly interested in the operation, but still, if anything should happen, I did not want to miss out on that evening. We were living then in a lovely house, ‘La Selva,’ with its rose garden by the Inland sea [Frenchman Bay], and in every window a flower box of geraniums and petunias over which the hummingbirds hung at noon…”

After their return to La Selva, the house was shared by the Davis family until the 1930s, when a granddaughter, Mrs. Charles Chaplin (a wealthy, blue-blazered, society Chaplin, not the Little Tramp), daughter of the very rich Daniel B.C. Catherwood (who had been married in succession to two of the Davis daughters), bought out her cousins.

The Chaplins sailed–literally–through the Depression (they played tennis, too). The estate escaped the flames of 1947 by only a few hundred feet, but the Bar Harbor the Davis family had enjoyed was gone. In 1954, La Selva was sold to Richard Gott, who used it as part of L’Ecole Arcadie, an elegant sum-

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Beautiful. Gorgeous. Serene.

You turned my overgrown perennial “wetland” into a showplace, a beautiful, serene yard that I thoroughly enjoy. The stonework and beautifully placed gardens make my yards look like a gorgeous little park. Thank you for everything, Jack!

— Cynthia Densmore Portland

l’Arcadie école de langue francaise

A literary conference at L’Ecole Arcadie in the 1960s included, from left: M. Michel Butor, Mme. Marguerite Yourcenar and M. Edouard Morot-Sir.

mer school offering immersion in French language and culture, complete with a butler on staff and sailboats at the dock. The school closed in the mid-’70s, and La Selva again became a private home. Today, lovely La Selva is ‘in need of restoration,’ which is so much prettier than ‘timeworn.’

La Selva, on 2.11 acres with 360 feet of shore frontage, is listed by Veena Gaines of Acadia Cornerstone Real Estate in Bar Harbor for $2.3 million. Taxes are $17,656. n

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Extra large living space w/ newer hardwood floors, marble bath less,& built-ins. large living space w/ hardwood floors, marble bath floor, floors, fireplace, central air & and deck, parking and This is a must lots of space & flexibility. $459,000 this a sound investment.

Pets ok. $178,500 $309,500 views from every room! $449,000 close to it all! $177,500 !e!$309,500 close to it all! $177,500 views from every room! $449,000 less,& built-ins.

Extra large living space w/ newer hardwood floors, marble bath floor, floors, gas fireplace, central air & vac, and and 1 car garage! Easy living, easy to heat, and sunroom and fenced in yard! A finished basement tub. 2 private decks, private garage and water views with built-ins, pantry,seating, private deck, parking and see home! 645,000 kitchen withperiod banquet extra large tons of natural light, good bedrooms, and a beautiful restoration of period woodtons of natural light, good size bedrooms, and a beautiful restoration of period wooddesigner master bath w/ size bubble jet tub. 2 tons of natural light, good size a beautiful restoration of every period wooddesigner master bath w/ bubble jet tub.

2 see home! 645,000 easy drive to shopping! $189,500 from room! $449,000 storage. This is a must space & bedrooms, generator completeand this value!! $199.500 master with built-ins, period pantry, private in unit, andprivate privateprivate deck &decks, garage work!

Parking, W/D in unit, and private deck work! storage &work! onsite laudry.storage Be W/D decks, garage and water W/D&ingarage unit, and private deckParking, & garage Parking, &private onsite laudry.

Be private garage and water storage & onsite laudry. Be deck, parking storage. This is a must plus lots from of storage! to it all! and $177,500 plus lots of storage! $309,500 close to it all! $177,500 close to it all! $177,500 views every $309,500 room! $449,000 plus lots of storage! $309,500 views from every room! close $449,000 see home! 645,000

PORTLAND - Histo offers this fabulously newer birch/black gr newer hardwood floo and a beautiful resto work! Parking, stora close to it all! $177,5

PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style Condo located in a cool location! Fabulous open design 2 B/R contemporary floor plan offers flexible living. Features gas fireplace, concrete floors, & extra high ceilings.

Parking & private patio space. Walk to Whole Foods & so much more! $249,000

the the conveinence of intown PORTLAND–Wonderful country setting just min- PORTLAND–Enjoy est End PORTLAND - Wonderful country setting PORTLAND - Enjoy conveinence of ofPORTLAND- Stylized Penthouse-Custom FeaWest Endshowplace showplace PORTLAND - Wonderful country setting PORTLAND - Enjoy the conveinence Views. New in 2007,this fabulous utes to townto&town shops! “almost new” home living; 1st floor 1st in floor the Arts District!

This President: neat tures-Amazing Greater Portland Call Ed Gardner today for real ality designer just minutes &This shops!

This "al-"alintown living; in the Arts District! uality designerfinishes! finishes! just minutes to town & shops!

This intown living; 1st floor in the Arts District! condo is in the middle of everything Portland. features hardwood floors, front to back livingroom and clean 2-bedroom condo has hardwood floors Board of REALTORS estate services in the sign most new" home features hardwood floors, This neatneat and and clean 2 bedroom condo PORTLAND West End showplace PORTLAND Wonderful country setting PORTLAND Enjoy the conveinence of esign==2 2Fpl's Fpl's(G&W), (G&W), PORTLAND most new" home features hardwood floors, This clean 2 bedroom condo Adorned with -stained concrete floors, custom of bath PORTLAND withtowood burning replace, and 3 car garage. 3PORTLAND throughout with direct access to common gardenPORTLAND Greater Portland Area.

West End showplace - Wonderful country setting -livingroom West fiEnd showplace - Wonderful country setting PORTLAND - Enjoy the conveinence hs, front back w/wood burning has has hardwood floors throughout w/direct condo with top quality designer finishes! just minutes to town & shops!

This "alintown and living; 1st floor in the Arts District! ths,beautiful beautifulcustom custom front to back livingroom w/wood burning hardwood floors throughout w/direct with soaking tub, private balcony covered parkbedrooms & 3 baths plus unfi nished bonus area ofat your back door!

Many building improvements condo withliving; top quality designer finishes! town415-4493 & shops! This "alcondo with and top quality designer finishes! & just minutes to town garden & shops!

This "alintown 1st floor in the Arts District! just minutes to(207) uet seating, extra large fireplace, 3 car garage.

3 bedrooms access to(G&W), common atnew" yourhome back 27 features hardwood floors, Superb Quality Design = 2 Fpl's most This neat and clean 2 bedroom condo quet seating, extra large Superb fireplace, and garage.

3(G&W), bedrooms &most access to common garden at your backSuperb ing! Pets welcome & storage included! $475,000 fer lots of space &3 flcar exibility. $459,000 make this ahome sound investment.

Pets OK. $178,500 Quality Design = 2 Fpl's (G&W), most new" home features hardwood floors, Quality Design = 2 Fpl's new" features hardwood floors, This neat and clean 2 bedroom condo ns, period pantry, private 3 baths plus unfinished bonus area offerbaths, beautiful door!Many building improvements make Stylish marble custom front to back livingroom w/wood burning has hardwood floors throughout w/direct ins, period pantry, privateStylish 3 baths plusbaths, unfinished bonus area offer door!Many building improvements make Stylish marble baths, custom to back beautiful custom back large livingroom w/wood burning has3hardwood floors throughout w/directgardenfront storage. This is a must lots ofmarble space & flexibility. $459,000 thistoa extra sound investment.

Pets ok.and $178,500 kitchen with banquet front seating, fireplace, 3 car garage. bedrooms & beautiful access to common at your backlivingroom w/wood burning d storage. This is a must kitchen lots with of space & flexibility. $459,000 this aand sound Pets ok. $178,500 with banquet garden seating, large fireplace, and 3 car garage. 3 bedrooms & banquet seating, extra large 3 carinvestment. garage.

3 bedrooms & kitchen accessarea to common atextra yourbuilding back improvements master with built-ins, fireplace, period pantry, private 3 baths plus unfinished bonus offer door!Many make 0 master with built-ins, private baths unfinished bonus area offer master with built-ins, period pantry, private 3 baths plus bonus door!Many buildingperiod improvements make 3Pets deck, parking and storage.

This is aunfinished must lots ofarea spaceoffer & flexibility. $459,000 this apantry, sound investment. ok.plus $178,500 deck, storage. This is a $178,500 must lots of space & flexibility. $459,000 deck, parking and storage. see Thishome! is a must thisparking a soundand investment.

Pets ok.

645,000 lots of space & flexibility. $459,000 see home! 645,000 see home! 645,000

Greater Portland

Greater Portland

THE HATCHER GROUP

PORTLAND - Enjo intown living; 1st flo PORTLAND - Hip 2 This neat and clean located in a cool loca has hardwood floors design 2 B/R contem access to common g fers flexible building living. F door!Many concrete floors, & ex this a sound investm Parking & private pa Whole Foods & so m

President: Greater Portland

Greater Portland Greater Portland REALTORS f REALTORS

PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style Condo located in a cool location! Fabulous open design 2 B/R contemporary floor plan offers flexible living. Features gas fireplace, concrete floors, & extra high ceilings.

Parking & private patio space. Walk to Whole Foods & so much more! $249,000 Gardner today for real

Call Ed Call Ed Gardner today estate services in the for real estate services in theHistoric West End Portland West Scarborough estate servicesArea. in the President: Greatertoday Portland President: Greater Portland Call Ed Gardner for realEnd Greater Portland John Hatcher Greater Portland Area.

Greater Portland Area. ofservices REALTORS Board of REALTORS Highland Lake estate in the (207) 415-4493 Townhouse Pine Point Board Water Views (207) 415-4493 John Hatcher 27 Greater Portland (207) 415-4493 2 BR, 2 BA 3 BR, 1 BA 5 BR,Area.

3 BA 5BR, 3BA “A House SOLD Name” (207) 415-4493 Board of REALTORS Falmouth

27

Greater Portland

PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style Condo PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style Condo located in a cool location!

Fabulous open PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style Condo design 2 B/R plan oflocated in acontemporary cool location!floor Fabulous open located in a cool location! Fabulous open fers flexible living.

Features gasfloor fireplace, design 2Condo B/R contemporary floor plan ofdesign 2 B/R contemporary plan of- PORTLAND - Hip Loft-Style open Features gas fireplace, fersFabulous flexible living. concrete floors,living. & extra high ceilings. fers flexible Features gas fireplace,located in a cool location! design 2 B/R contemporary floorfloors, plan ofconcrete & extra high ceilings.

Parking & private space. to concrete floors, patio & extra highWalk ceilings. gas & fireplace, Parking private patio space. Walk to Whole Foods & so much Parking & private patiomore! space.$249,000 Walk to fers flexible living. Features concrete floors, & extra Whole high ceilings.

Foods & so much more! $249,000 Whole Foods & so much more! $249,000 Parking & private patio space. Walk to CallFoods Ed Gardner today for real Whole & so much more! $249,000 President: Greater Portland

Greater Portland

KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY Board of REALTORS View all MLS Listings & sign up for our monthly newsletter at www.JohnHatcher.us 27 or give us a call at our office: (207) 775-2121

$325,000

Paul McKee Buyer Agent

27 $949,000

Jeff Lunt Buyer Agent

Susan Lelansky Buyer Agent

$695,000

Scott Bonney Buyer Agent

$698,500

Call Ed Gardn estate ser Greater Po (207) 4

The Hatcher Group 6 Deering St. Portland, ME 04101

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2013 91

For all our listings, go to TheCapitalChoice.com

89 Water Street, Hallowell, Maine 207-622-2220

PITTSTON –Absolutely spectacular! One of a kind! Newer post & beam w/over 5,000 sq. ft. of incredible living space. 4 bedrooms, 4.5 baths, 30 acres, Douglas fir doors, chef’s kitchen, stone fireplace, 8-stall horse barn. Pastures, views, in-ground pool! $1,500,000

EUSTIS WATERFRONT - Once in a lifetime chance!

Former famous “Lindbergh” compound on Shaw Pond. 13 miles in the woods is this 4 bedroom, 3 bath log lodge.

3 stone fireplaces, Douglas fir floors, beams, 560 acres, barn, 2 guest cottages, the best in Maine right here! $2,475,000

EAST BOOTHBAY - Rich in history & character galore. Beautiful year-round 3-bedroom, 1.5-bath home. Sweeping ocean views from new 3rd floor family room, porch, deck, separate general store or guest house. Incredible opportunity to own this rare property! $695,000

MANCHESTER WATERFRONT - Award-winning actors starred in a recent movie filmed on this magnificent estate! Private 5.6 acres of rock-walled gardens & water views.

Artisan-crafted front door opens to a unique foyer w/one-of-a-kind flying staircase. This 13+ rm. 5,000 sq ft home also offers 340’ frontage on Cobbossee Stream & 154' deeded common lot frontage on Cobbossee Lake. $769,000

WEST GARDINER - Spectacular setting with views for miles! Impressive log home with slate fireplace, lots of glass, soaring ceilings, 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, loft, family room, open concept, 2 car garage, privacy. Just incredible! $400,000

CHELSEA - Absolutely stunning & impeccable 3-4 bedroom Cape on 16+ acres. 2.5 baths, formal dining, wood floors, den, kitchen with granite & stainless, 2 car garage, circular drive, deck, inground heated pool, great view. What a house! $345,000

AUGUSTA WATERFRONT - Stunning home on Three Corner Pond! Massive cathedral living/game room with stone hearth and stove, 2-3 bedrooms, 2-car garage, newly renovated basement, on almost 2 acres. Just minutes to new hospital. MOTIVATED SELLER! $365,000

WINTHROP WATERFRONT - Fish from your porch! Lovely summer cottage with 200' of frontage on Cobbossee Lake. Metal roof, docks, public water and sewer. This property also includes a new stunning guest cottage - cathedral. A GREAT buy! $235,000

WEST GARDINER WATERFRONT - Total quality & seclusion. Custom built contemporary ranch with loft, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, tiled floors, cathedral ceilings, stunning hickory kitchen, granite counters, master suite, porch, 210’ of frontage on Cobbossee Stream. $270,000

ROCKLAND - A grand ol’ classic circa 1851.

This church-converted home has a stage, 21' ceilings, wood floors, new windows, 41' x 47 main room, 3 bedrooms, 1.5 baths, balcony, den, deck.

Incredible living space! Amazing! A very RARE opportunity! $275,000

MANCHESTER WATERFRONT - Updated Farmhouse Cape. Huge applianced kitchen with bar, family room, living, 3 bedrooms, dining, newer roof and furnace, attached barn, tranquil backyard with a stream, 6.3 acres, plus frontage on Cobbossee Lake. $245,000

For more information on the above listings, please call Chris Vallee at 207-622-2220 or 207-242-2041

N e w En g l a n d H o m e s & L i v i n g Chebeague ISLAND

Classic shingled summer cottage on Casco Bay with 7 acres of fields and over 500 feet of waterfront. Estate-like setting with wonderful views. 2-car garage/workshop. Owned by the same family for 110 years.

$900,000

JANE LEONARD Cell: 831-9951 (207) 553-7375 • jane@homesinmaine.com

970 Baxter Boulevard, Suite 201 • Portland, ME 04103

BrunSwick

To be builT–This craftsman style home is set on a 2.5 acre lot, just three miles from town, abutting conservation land and nature trails. The open design creates an elegant first floor living opportunity, offering hardwood and tile flooring, a great room with tray ceilings and a gas fireplace, custom eat-in kitchen, master suite, two spare bedrooms with full bath, half bath and utility room plus a flex space for an office or formal dining. This lovely living space is augmented with front and back covered porches, a two car attached garage and unfinished bonus space. $425,000.

240 Maine Street • Brunswick, ME 04011 • (207) 729-1863 For Properties, Open Houses, Visual Tours – www.MaineRE.com

Falmouth Land Only $88,900!

Picturesque home site in spectacular Falmouth farmland.

10 minutes to Portland Easy access to I-95 & I-295

Idyllic views of horses and rolling pastures

Scenic brook Build your dream house on this beautiful corner lot with existing footprint.

Contact Laurie Champagne • 318-9945

The Maine Real Estate Network Champagne & Associates 887 Roosevelt Trail · Windham, Maine

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N e w En g l a n d H o m e s & L i v i n g International Exposure Local Expertise International Exposure

International LocalExposure Expertise Scarborough $2,000,000 Local Expertise Mark Fortier 523-8108 #1074727

Cape Elizabeth $1,575,000 Tim Kennedy 523-8123 #1081461

Limington $349,000 Jeff Davis 523-8118 #1006772

Portland $360,000 Sandy Johnson 523-8110 #1083970

Cumberland Foreside $649,000 Edie Boothby 523-8111 #1086393

North Yarmouth $615,000 Dianne Maskewitz 523-8112 #1082471

Cumberland Foreside $3,750,000 Bob Knecht 523-8114 #1060447

Portland $515,000 Gail Landry 523-8115 #1081234

Gray $399,000 Chris Jackson 523-8116 #990983

Cape Elizabeth $950,000 Steve Parkhurst 523-8102 #1055444

Cape Elizabeth $2,750,000 Tish Whipple 523-8104 #1065778

www.townandshore.com SOLD

one union wharf • Portland • 207.773.0262

Cape Elizabeth $899,000 Susan Lamb 523-8105 #1081328

Cape Elizabeth $1,095,000 Cindy Landrigan 523-8106 #1046984

Freeport $1,125,000 Rowan Morse 523-8107 #1014743

International Exposure International Exposure www.townandshore.com union wharf •Local Portland •Expertise 207.773.0262 Local one Expertise 9 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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• 2 Bedrooms • 2 Bathrooms • Washer & dryer • Fieldstone gas fireplace • 2 Decks over the lake • Private dock included • Granite countertops • All-stainless kitchen

N

OW THIS IS MAINE.

Escape to the most romantic retreat you could ever imagine. Only six minutes from Exit 53 off the turnpike and 10 minutes from Portland, this year-round getaway on Highland Lake in Falyear-round mouth makes you feel you’re in Shangri-La. As you take the Blackstrap Road in Falmouth and turn onto Mast Road, you can almost feel the silent lake moving closer as you turn right on Huston Road and approach below whispering pines.

When you reach the lake, you’ve made it.

No. 66 is a classic cedar-shingled cottage with red metal roof and storage building. Inside the vaulted knotty-pine threshold, the door opens to a dramatic stone gas fireplace for intimate nights as you look beyond to enormous blue views of the

lake through a wall of windows that opens to a spectacular second-floor deck. At night, the stars.

It’s impossible to walk out here without catching your breath. To your left is the kitchen, in stainless and Deer Isle granite. Off the kitchen is a bath with shower, and tucked in a corner against the water like the bow of a ship is a romantic dining room below the sweep of spruce trees. You will see eagles from here as they glide and fish across the lake, as well as deer, foxes, pheasants, and loons. You’ll find yourself, too. It’s such a fantastic getaway that no fewer than three novels have been written from the writer’s desk that looks across the water, by three differ-

John Hatcher, Keller Williams

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& FALMOUTH SCHOOLS YEAR-ROUND LAKEFRONT HOME–ONLY 15 MINUTES FROM PORTLAND

ent residents. In winter, there’s legendary ice fishing, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling.

A spiral staircase descends to the lake-level bedroom with gas heater, all in knotty pine (you’ll love morning coffee on your private lakeside deck), while a stairway to the second floor opens up to the master suite, with full bath, windows on the water, and walk-in closet.

This idyll is ideal for young families who love Falmouth schools and desire an easy commute to downtown Portland, or dreamers who crave the most private lot on this three-and-one-half-mile lake–the closest experience of this kind to Portland and the Old Port. Visit Pine Cone for a tour. You’ll never forget your time here. Not just great for making family memories, Pine Cone can also pay for itself with its great potential and history of weekly rentals. Priced to sell at $325,000.

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1 0 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

fiction Lucia Davies

Clearing

Millinocket from top: lori dieter/penny lane; orkin

T

he seaplane’s engine stalled once, then again.

At a crazy angle, Lake Millinocket rushed up at us from below. Glancing behind me, I could see Dennis turn several unappealing shades of green.

This trip had been his idea; even with my immature grasp of the concept of irony I saw comedy in his current state.

“It’s beautiful, Dennis! Look!” I gestured to the window he was stoically ignoring.

The pilot, laughing, called out over the plane’s noise: “There’s your dock. And the cabin, up there. We’ll get you down without a scrape.” Dennis’ green intensified. I took his hand.

I was used to helping adults who were fresh off an argument, or getting fired, or being divorced. I couldn’t understand why parents, teachers, or older boyfriends couldn’t do it for themselves, but soothing them gave me stature in their world, so I took full advantage. This trip, though, would prove the downside

of my talent.

“I can’t believe we made it,” said Dennis, standing shakily next to Kevin and Mary Pat as we hoisted our bags from the plane’s hold. “Thank God for you, Jane. I was close to hurling.”

I couldn’t know then, as I shielded my eyes from the violent brilliance of the lake, that the next two weeks of spoiled food (the cabin’s refrigerator was busted), non-stop Schnapps drinking, endless cardgames, unimaginative sex, and the relentless onslaught of deerflies would herald the end of my desire to keep everyone happy.

If the others–complaining, complaining–couldn’t see beauty in sitting alone on the porch of an evening, chain-smoking Marlboros, listening to nightbirds calling, and gazing at the mystery of darkening waters, then I would claim it for my own, on my own. I would return from Lake Millinocket with the victorious words, “Screw them!” forever upon my lips. n m ay

2013 101

flash portlandmonthly.com 3

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still points of the turning world photo exhibit at Maine jewish museum in Portland, from left: 1. Kate Halpert Lowry, Joe Reed 2. Janice Cooper, Jackie Potter 1

2

3 Portland Symphony Orchestra wine dinner & Auction at Harraseeket Inn in Free­port, from left: 1. Laura Fleury, Lindsay Stanley 2. Tina & Bruce Hunt 3. Jennifer Segal, Tonya DiMillo

4

5

architalx at Portland museum of art downtown, from left: 1. Rene Johnson, Jennifer Christian, Leah Whalen 2. Doug Green, Carmen Greenlee 3. Mary Clews, Cordelia Pitman 4.Judy Schneider, Ron Conterio, Tracey Davis, Tom Moulton 5. Abigail Cram, Andrew Bradley, Jenna Bradle 6. Heidi Fisher, Linda Wiley, Kerry Conway 7. Rebecca Ames, Lynn Pepin

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bad to the bone at state theatre in Portland, from left: 1. George Thorogood 2. Tiaria Gaudet, Casey Marston 3. Joseph Shepard, Joseph Cote 4. Tracy Daniels, Steven Roscoe

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Portland Sunrise’s Beer & Wine Tasting Social & Auction at dimillo’s in Portland, from left: 1. Courtney Ottoson, Deborah Walsh, David Walsh 2. Joan Keddedy, Dianne Procida 3. Anne Maclean, Elizabeth Polansky

2

1

Eat the Heat Chili Cookoff & Firefighter race at sunday river in new­ry, from left: 1. Katie Franck, Roy Depasquale, Megan Kelly, Melissa Yasko 2. WGME’s Jeff Peterson, WJBQ-FM’s Lori Voornes, WMTW’s Steve Minich

May Excitement Wednesday, May 1st

Opening Day begins at 4PM Drink Specials & Complimentary Hors d’oeuvres from 4PM- 5PM

Sunday, May 12th

First Sunday Brunch Mother’s Day Mimosa Specials for Moms from 9AM - 1PM

Wednesday, May 15th Sunday, May 19th

Hiker’s Brunch Special, 9:30AM Signature Protein Smoothies followed by a free guided hike through the Cathance River Nature Preserve.

2

Inaugural poet Richard Blanco reception at merrill auditorium in portlandin Portland, from left: 1. Margaret Harmon, Andy Verzosa 2. Richard Blanco

Wild Duck Pub Local. Fresh. Unexpected.

Open May 1ST at 4PM

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114 Village Drive, Topsham, Maine at Highland Green, A Masterpiece of Maine Living 1 0WDP_Portland 2 p o r t lMagazine_041213.indd a n d m o n t h1 l y m a g a z i n e

4/11/2013 1:46:36 PM

Get Get ready Get your smile ready to confidence to to radiate radiate confidence this this spring! spring!

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P OP HAM Beach Club 43° 44’ 34.29” N

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• Spectacular Outdoor Event Pavilion • Elegant facility • Upstairs or downstairs seating • Renowned Executive Chef, able to acoommodate any menu request • 10 Minutes from downtown Portland • Rehearsal Dinners, Ceremonies, Receptions • Superb settings for photography indoor/outdoor facility set on the dunes of popham beach

now booking for rehearsals, ceremonies, receptions, and special events Popham Beach, Maine • www.pophambeachclub.com

tours & information:

Falmouth Country Club Falmouth, ME • (207) 878-2864 • falmouthcc.org

(207) 442-8725 • info@pophambeachclub.com

Traditions Worth Keeping.

m a i n e Stay&Play e x p e r i e n c e s

Sunday River GC, Newry

Old Marsh CC, Wells

Penobscot Valley CC, Orono

#1 Course in Maine - Golf Week Top 100 You Can Play in the US - GOLF Magazine

“Top 10 Best New Courses in he US” 2008 - GOLF Magazine

“The Best Donald Ross You Can Play in New England”

ROBERT TRENT JONES, II

BRIAN SILVA

DONALD ROSS

Stay in the Mountains... Stay on the Coast... Stay at the Casino!

prices start at $99.95/pp CALL (207) 442-8725 Monday-Friday www.harrisgolfonline.com

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t h e

Harris Golf

Charit y Classic

featu r ing t he legends of the lp g a

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Falmouth Country Club

Falmouth, ME • 04105 • (207) 878-2864 • www.falmouthcc.org

Traditions Worth Keeping.

The Legends Return September 14-15, 2013

Find out why brides are booking with us!

SPECIALIZING IN LARGE PARTIES

fabu, because life is a special occasion Overlooking Portland Harbor Appointments & Walk-Ins Welcome Open 8-8 Daily, 7 Days a Week Child Care Available Spa Finder Partner