Portland Monthly Magazine April 2011

Portland Monthly ® Magazine

What’s a Quarter Century Between Friends?

April 2011 25th Anniversary Issue

Volume 26, No. 2

Sargent Publishing

A p r i l 2 0 1 1 V o l . 2 6 NO . 2 $ 5 . 9 5

w w w. p o r t l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m

25th Anniversary Issue

special collector’s edition

Birds Have Moms, Too. Don’t Forget Them on Mother’s Day. (And Your Mom Will Love It Too)

Wild Bird Center of Falmouth 65 Gray Rd., West Falmouth Crossing Falmouth ME 04105 • 207-518-9174

SHOP ONLINE at www.wildbird.com/falmouth

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SPECIAL EVENT NOT TO BE MISSED! Live Birds of Prey with Eagles, Owls & Hawks at the Wild Bird Center of Falmouth www.windoverwings.org April 30, 2011 at 11 AM & 2 PM

Beauty. Quality. Integrity.

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Before you start your project, ask for Gagne materials by name. gagneandson.com 28 Old Route 27 Road, Belgrade, ME 04917 | 1-800-339-3313

THE NEW

new

C O T TA G E S

new

R E S TAU RANTS

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Samoset Resort just keeps getting better.

Building upon the success of our stunning new free form outdoor pool and bar, we are excited to introduce a new Italian dining experience at La Bella Vita Ristorante & Lounge,

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overlooking the ocean, and the newly enhanced Samoset Kids Club.

Based on availability. Restrictions may apply. Available through 10/31/11.

Sunday or Monday Arrival Required 7/16/11 - 9/4/11.

800-341-1650

SamosetResort.com

Pastor, servant, peacemaker, advisor and businessman, Bishop Jean-Louis Lefebvre De Cheverus (1768-1836), won great praise and respect among his people for his devotion to duty, courage and charity. Whether braving the wilds of Maine on Native American missions or traveling long distances by foot during the yellow fever epidemic to aid the sick and dying, Bishop Cheverus continued to forge ahead with his vision.

Bishop Cheverus’ perseverance and self-sacrifice inspired the renaming of Cheverus High School, a highly respected, private, Catholic college of preparatory school of Portland, Maine. Cheverus High School’s excellence in education, community service and spiritual leadership is what continues to draw and guide generations of students, preparing them to meet new challenges with the benefit of becoming men and women for others through the vision of a value-based Jesuit education.

Michael A. Liberty, Liberty Affiliated Holdings and The Liberty Family Foundation are proud to be comprised of many family and team members previously educated at Cheverus. From Dr. Stan Liberty (class of '61), a multiple-award recipient and current President of Kettering University, to Max Liberty (class of 2014), an award-winning equestrian competitor, ten of our members have benefited from Cheverus’ outstanding Jesuit education program.

Thank You, Cheverus High School, for the positive influence and exemplary education you provided for our members such as Jim Stanley- CEO Liberty Group; Rick Liberty- Retired 35-year Investment Advisor and current Trustee of Michael A. Liberty estate; Richard Forsley-Real-estate entrepreneur; Alex Forsley- Merchant Marine; Fred Forsley- Entreprenuer & Founder of Shipyard Brewing Company; Scott Gorneau- Biological Systems Engineer (son of Marilyn Liberty Gorneau); April Liberty- Professional musician, teacher and President of Liberty Family Foundation (“LFF”); and Adriana Liberty- Awardwinning equestrian competitor, philanthropist and Executive Director of LFF.

For more info: www.michaelaliberty.com To learn more about the Cheverus experience, contact the Admissions office at

774-6238

CHEVERUS.ORG

Tidewater Millwork Cabinetry • Moldings • Doors • Turnings • Windows

Woolwich, ME • www.tidewatermillwork.com • 443-8020 IN BUSINESS SINCE 1974

Sooner or later you will want to retire. Comfortably.

But do concerns about making the numbers work leave you uncomfortable? Get there. Have a conversation with your personal banker at Gorham Savings Bank. You can reach your financial goals with our resources — and our commitment. Visit us online, or at the branch nearest you.

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r e v e F g n i r p S Ca tch ui t! q n u g O In ur Sign up for o at E-Newsletter rg uit.o www.ogunq

Ogunquit Maine is the premier destination to satisfy all of your spring and summer wishes.

Experience miles of beautiful sandy beaches, quaint seaport coves, fine dining, superior accommodations and a selection of unique shops and businesses in one convenient location.

98 Provence

Five-O Shore Road Restaurant

Amore Breakfast/Café Amore

Gorges Grant Hotel

The Barrel Stave, Retail Gift Shop

Juniper Hill Inn

207-646-9898 www.98provence.com 207-646-6661/207-646-6660 www.amorebreakfast.com

207-646-5001 www.five-oshoreroad.com 800-646-5001 www.ogunquit.com

207-646-8298 www.barrelstave.com

800-646-4544 www.ogunquit.com

Bartley’s Dockside Dining

Katie’s on Shore Road

207-967-6244 www.bartleysdining.com

207-641-2780 www.katiescafeonshoreroad.com

Caffé Prego

Knight’s Quilt Shop

207-646-7734 www.caffepregoogt.com

207-361-2500 www.mainequiltshop.com

Carriage House Motel, Cottages and Suites

Mainely Quilts Gift Shop

207-646-2159 or 888-213-4720 www.mainecarriagehouse.com

Clay Hill Farm Restaurant 207-361-2272 www.clayhillfarm.com

The Colonial Inn

207-646-5191 www.thecolonialinn.com

Feile Restaurant & Pub

207-251-4065 www.feilerestaurantandpub.com

Fisherman’s Catch

207-646-8780 www.fishermanscatchwells.com

207-985-4250 www.mainelyquilts.com

Meadowmere Resort 207-646-9661 www.meadowmere.com

The Milestone

800-646-6453 www.ogunquit.com

The Morning Dove B & B 207-646-3891 www.themorningdove.com

The Nellie Littlefield House Bed & Breakfast 207-646-1692 www.nellielittlefieldhouse.com

2011 Calendar of Events

The Neptune Inn On the Beach 207-646-2632 www.theneptuneinn.com

For more information on these events, go to www.visitogunquit.org.

April 15-17: 21st Annual Patriots Day Celebration – Colonial re-enactments, bazaar/ craft

Ogunquit Museum of American Art 207-646-4909 www.ogunquitmuseum.org

show, restaurant tastings, entertainment, Kidstown Amusements and much more.

Ogunquit Rental Properties

May 6-8: 2nd AIDS Walk Weekend featuring

207-646-1500 www.ogunquitrentalproperties.com

Beach & Bay AIDS Walk & Run.

June 5-9: 3rd Semi-Annual Ogunquit Restaurant Week.

July 4: Independence Day Fireworks August 25: 38th Annual Sidewalk Art Show and Sale. Rain date: August 26.

September 3: 3rd Annual Labor Day Sidewalk Sale September 3: 7th Annual Almost Labor Day Auction – Annual fundraiser featuring a wide array

Old Village Inn

207-646-7088 www.theoldvillageinn.net

On the Main Unique Gifts & Jewelry 207-646-9280 www.onthemain.com

Perkins Cove Candles

of silent auction items and a live art auction offering a selection of fine art. Sponsored by Ogunquit Museum of American Art. 207-646-4909.

207-646-7774 www.perkinscovecandles.com

Photography by Katherine

September 5-17: 21st Annual Capriccio – A celebration of the arts!

207-451-3734 www.photographybykatherine.com

October 21-23: 8th Annual OgunquitFest –

Weekend festival including scarecrow contest, haunted house, classic car show, Bridge to Beach Bed Race, pumpkin decorating, ghost stories, craft bazaar and much more.

Raspberri’s Restaurant 800-646-5001 www.ogunquit.com

October 30-November 3: 4th Semi-Annual Ogunquit Restaurant Week.

November 13: 3rd Annual Celebrations by the Sea Bridal Show.

December 3-4 & 9-11: 25th Annual Christmas by the Sea Celebration –

Rockmere Lodge 207-646-2985 www.rockmere.com

Sea Chambers Motel

A weekend celebration of tree lightings, caroling, chowder & chocolate fest, beach bonfire, entertainment, shopping, Santa, and more.

207-646-9311 www.seachambers.com

All Event dates and times are subject to change.

Stage Neck Inn

s t in a t io n e D n o s a e S 4 r Yo u

207-363-3850 www.StayOnTheOcean.com

Studio East Motel

207-646-7297 www.studioeastmotel.com

Swamp John’s Fine Art Jewelry Terrace by the Sea

207-646-3232 www.terracebythesea.com

Wells-Ogunquit Resort Motel & Cottages 207-646-8588 www.wells-ogunquit.com

Photo by Robert Dennis

207-646- 9414 www.swampjohns.com

OGUNQUIT CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 36 Main Street (US Rt 1) Ogunquit, ME 03907

207-646-2939 www.ogunquit.org www.visitogunquit.org

renovation restoration cabinetry custom doors millwork

quality craftsmanship since 1987 | portland, maine | mrbrewer.com | 207.797.7534

e m ! o y c t elto Our Par

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Features 25

28

clockwise from top left: the tyra show; karen kaiser; white barn inn; bethany stone; taryn crane

33 35

74 81

Tales of the Grand Hotels

“No. I’m supposed to deliver this whoopie pie to Mr. Depp in person.”

By Benjamin Goodridge

Leading Lady

Rachel Nichols takes a great leap forward in The Loop and Conan the Barbarian.

By Colin W. Sargent

May We Suggest…

Dear J. Crew: Love the Winslow Homer fashions, but why stop there?

From Staff & Wire Reports

What’s 25 Years Between Friends?

Mark Portland Magazine’s Silver Anniversary in publication where the past meets the future.

By Colin W. Sargent

Cruise Control

Tracking cruise-ship dollars.

By Karen E. Hofreiter

Lost Horizon

One City Center as a cultural bridge.

By Leah Whalen

91 Dreamiest Catch

Deadliest Catch deckhand & Maine-native Crosby Leveen on fitness for sea duty.

Interview by Taryn Crane

April 2011

84

Departments 10 12 14 16 22 84

From the Editor

86

Market Watch

88 89

Dining Guide

93 97

2011 Guide to Wellness

103

New England Homes & Living

108

Fiction

112

Flash

Letters Imperatifs Goings On Chowder Cuiscene

Maine’s culinary evolution

81

What’s hot, what’s not

Restaurant Review Buck’s Naked BBQ

House of the Month 111 West Street

“The Island”

By Robert Graves

Cover: “Then and Now”: Stacey Teas Collins sparkles in our April 1986 premiere issue and today as we

breeze into 25 years in publication. See story, page 41. Photos by Peter Macomber (inset), Billy Black.

91 April

2011 9

editorial Colin W. Sargent, Founding Editor & Publisher

Silver Linings “The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there.”*

Medling 24” xTracy 24” oil on canvas Bruce Habowski

Featuring original works of fine Featuring art, photography, photography, and and limitedlimitedart, edition prints prints by by regional regional edition and local local artists. artists. and

372 Fore Fore Street Street 372 Portland, Maine Portland, Maine 04101 04101 207 874-8084 (207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com www.forestreetgallery.com

“Those who believe in telekinetics, raise my hand.”** To celebrate the silver anniversary of Portland Magazine’s April 1986 debut–for which I’m so deeply grateful to our readers, writers, photographers, artists, advertisers, and staff members past and present–we’re now prepared to offer guided tours into this ‘foreign country’ as a result of the completion of a year-long archive project.

The past and the future eloquently inform the present. Feel welcome to visit us at our 165 State Street headquarters–one of the oldest buildings in Portland and a true landmark–to test-drive our new electronic vault.

Now, along with our glossy print version, online readers will have a chance to travel more deeply into our quirky, extraordinary perspectives across the years and ever forward–thanks to our new “Classic Maine Stories” section at portlandmagazine.com.

• Through this portal, we can experience anew how astonishing it was that the brilliant W. E. B. DuBois, founder of the NAACP, disappeared many summers for rest and relaxation with a coterie of intellectuals on the shore of Lake Cobbosseecontee at the Cambridge Gun & Rod Club.

• We’re still getting requests for “Shudder Island,” the heart-wrenching story featured in our October 2004 issue on the residents of Malaga Island.

• Was Barbara DiNinno pushed from the stern of a ship after she left Maine Maritime Academy? Come with us to see what happens when you dare to make waves.

Join the ’80s party on our website! Send your favorite photo from your St. Elmo’s Fire days to staff@portlandmonthly.

• Or time-travel to the ending of the Cold War. com and win a Portland Magazine silver anniversary cofLonely crew members aboard Soviet fishing fee mug, guaranteed to become a valuable collector’s trawlers off the coast of Maine had spent deitem. The winner will be chosen by a discerning jury of imcades looking across the darkness from the peccable taste. six-mile limit for a glimpse of the lights dancing along U.S. Route 1, but as Perestroika unfolded, the crews grew bolder and friendlier, sending zodiacs in the dark of night to Rockland to order…pizza! The story so bewitched Nobel laureate Czeslaw Milosz that he called to say I love you. “Pizza Diplomacy” is available, fresh from the oven, at “Classic Maine Stories” on portlandmagazine.com. Try a slice.

*L. P. Hartley, The Go-Between, 1953 **Kurt Vonnegut, Whenever 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Rhonda Farnham (2)

From the Garden

× 7" oil onMile canvasCafe The 5"Crooked

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E.H.F.

Celebrating 25 Years

165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 E-mail: staff@portlandmonthly.com www.portlandmagazine.com

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Portland TM

Furniture-quality cabinetry and millwork for the entire home.

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Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher

editor@portlandmonthly.com

Nancy Sargent

Jesse Stenbak

Robert T. Witkowski

Art & Production Art Director Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Design Director

Anna J. Nelson

Lexi Helming

Jim O’Rourke

Advertising Advertising Director anna@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Executive lexi@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Executive jim@portlandmonthly.com

editorial Karen E. Hofreiter Assistant Editor & Publisher Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives

Jason Hjort Webmaster

Diane Hudson Goings On · Flash · Reviews Cynthia Farr-Weinfeld Contributing Photographer accounting Scott A. Furrow Controller scott@portlandmonthly.com interns Benjamin Goodridge, Jennifer K. Quartararo, Bethany Stone subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $39 (1 yr.), $55 (2 yrs.), or $65 (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine 165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All cor­re­ spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Scott Furrow.

Newsstand Cover Date: April 2011, published in March 2011, Vol. 26, No. 2, copyright 2011. Portland Magazine is mailed at thirdclass mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opin­ ions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are wel­­come and will be treated as uncon­ditionally as­ signed for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment edi­ torially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copy­ rights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be re­ printed in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with news­stand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 27 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.

S a r g e n t

www.ehfortnerwoodworking.com | P: 207-845-2600 © Sarah Szwajkos Photography

P u bl i sh i ng , i nc .

April

2011 11

letters editor@portlandmonthly.com

Y ® MAGAZINE PORTLAND MONTHL

• Precious Roses Restaurant Week Preview

Maine’s City Magazine

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2011 VOLUME 26, NO. 1 G

SARGENT PUBLISHIN

n ives Salo Perspect Itʼs Still Cool 8 Ways to Hot While

2011 VOL. FEBRUARY/MARCH

26 NO. 1 $5.95

Gardening On A Dime

NE.COM ANDMAGAZI W W W. P O R T L

hi (Twenty) Fives

Congratulations to Portland Magazine on your 25th Anniversary! Kudos to the entire group on such a fine publication.

You have my very best wishes for continued success!

Angel Gonzalez, Jr., Director of Editorial Operations, TV Guide Magazine, New York

Atlantic Seal Cruises Private Charters for up to 28 guests Daily Cruises to Admiral Peary’s Eagle Island Seguin Island Lighthouse on Thursdays only Evening charters for dinner to Chebeague Island Inn 207-865-6112 • atlanticsealcruises.com • Freeport 1 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Please allow me to extend my warmest congratulations as Portland Magazine celebrates not only its outstanding 25th year, but also the publication of the 250th issue!

What extraordinary milestones!

Over the past 25 years, Portland Magazine has chronicled the city of Portland throughout its growth–from the myriad cultural advancements in arts and entertainment to the tremendous business opportunities that can be found in our great state’s largest city. Indeed, the unique Maine experience is intricately woven into the fabric of Portland, and your magazine’s pages could not capture that more. In fact, it has served as a model of success during these challenging times, and it’s no surprise that you have weathered this economic storm so well considering in the past four years alone, the magazine has won 27 national awards!

Colin and Nancy, the greater Portland community and certainly your readers across the nation and world join me in ap-

plauding you and your phenomenal leadership since founding the magazine. I wish you and the entire staff at Portland Magazine the very best as you continue to serve as a beacon of information for Mainers and tourists alike.

Again, congratulations on this momentous occasion–and here’s to the next twentyfive years!

[Handwritten]: Congratulations on an extraordinary achievement that has become so much a part of our community and state!

Sen. Olympia Snowe, Washington, D.C. Congratulations on 25 years of great work for the State of Maine! As a long-time reader, I have always appreciated your thoughtful interviews, lovely art reviews, and in-depth coverage of Portland’s ascent as a nationally recognized place to live, work, and play.

But more than that, thank you for the active role you have played in that ascendance. You have put our thriving art and food scenes in the spotlight. You have supported the growth of our local businesses. And you have effectively marketed our state to the entire region as a place where time-honored traditions meet the cutting edge.

Maine is certainly a unique place and yours is a unique publication. Thank you again for all your hard work.

Rep. Chellie Pingree, Washington, D.C. Congratulations on the 25th Anniversary of Portland Magazine. It is quite an accomplishment to have achieved this goal.

You have developed a landmark for the city, providing tourists and locals information on lifestyles, arts, and the culture that Portland has to offer.

I want to congratulate you in this great accomplishment, and I want to thank you for your dedication in serving people in Portland, Maine, and the surrounding areas.

Congratulations and best wishes.

Gov. Paul R. LePage, Augusta As Mayor of the City of Portland, it is my pleasure to congratulate you and your staff on 25 years of impeccable coverage of this great city. For 250 issues, you have shone a light on hundreds of hidden treasures unique to Portland. Through stories

and photos, you have shocked, surprised, and amazed your readers with all Maine has to offer.

From the tragedy at Long Lake to the sale of van Gogh’s Irises, to even your recent coverage of City Manager Joe Gray’s retirement, Portland Magazine has brought the Forest City into the homes of readers from across the globe. Given the numbers of awards and accolades you have received for design excellence, it is no surprise that your publication is the city’s magazine of record at the New York City Public Library. You do the city proud, and I thank you for always searching for the unexpected. You’ve managed to teach even me a thing or two about my hometown.

Congratulations again on hitting your silver anniversary, and I, along with the residents of Portland, look forward to celebrating your gold!

Mayor Nicholas M. Mavodones, Jr., Portland Congratulations to a great team and magazine on your 25th birthday!

Brigitta Jenner, Convention & Visitors Bureau of Greater Portland

House made out of whipped cream

No less thought provoking than I would expect…Not to mention chock full of wit and fact [“Incomparable You,” February/ March 2011]!

Anita Torraco, Plymouth, New Hampshire

For all life’s special occasions!

34 Exchange Street, Portland 207.772.0219 • serendipityportland.com

Wood Flooring Made in Maine

It was such a nice surprise to see [this] article in Portland Magazine this month. It perked me up!

Nina Kukchenko, Portland

Hair today, blonde tomorrow

[Regarding “Salon Perspectives,” Feb./ March 2011:] Coco [Cheveux] is amazing!

Rebecca Sweek, Scarborough

map of the human heart

In love with [“Eat 3.0,” Winterguide 2011]…Soooo informative–I am still currently going through it and putting a ton of items in my date book! I pride myself on knowing the happenings of Portland, but this magazine takes it above and beyond. Honestly, without it I just wouldn’t be where I am today in the social network circle, so thanks…

Krystal Kenville, Portland

800-769-6196 www.aesampsonandson.com April

2011 13

Impera Moxie!

Moxie With

Ringing Endorsement: Richard Fisher’s melodic foundry, U.S. Bells of Prospect Harbor, offers “simple, sleek, handcrafted” wind chimes and ship bells. usbells.com

Imagine visiting a strange, belching country where Seth Rogen is president. Enter the revamped, youth-centric new Zero-Carb Moxie Energy Drink Explosion Super Fruit Punch.

The packaging on this update of the classic Maine elixir [invented by Dr. Augustin Thompson of Union, who patented it as Moxie Nerve Food in 1876] is so noisy it drowns out the drink’s surprisingly refreshing taste.

$3,500

You could celebrate the Kentucky Derby with mint juleps and a widebrimmed hat, but for a bit of flash, place a bet on this dazzling Horse and Jockey Brooch, circa 1920. A blue-and-whiteenameled, 18k-gold jockey holds fast to a platinum horse encrusted with diamonds.

Stonehome Estate Jewelers, 50 Exchange Street. stonehomeantiques.com

Owl

Be Seeing You

America’s Next Top Location Shoot?

Meet your favorite predator on April 30 when conservationist Hope Douglas brings her feathered friends to the Wild Bird Center, 65 New Gray Road, Falmouth. Get close to great horned owls, sawwhet owls, red-tailed hawks, and eagles. “The goal is to educate people on why these birds are important to our ecosystem,” says manager Casey Hynes. wildbird.com/falmouth

14 portland monthly magazine

Here’s something to ‘smize’ about!

Location scouts for Tyra Banks’s model-search reality show were recently spotted having a nosh at Hugo’s. Keep your eyes out for some fierce coastal scenery on Cycle 17 of America’s Next Top Model on The CW.

Illustration by Karen Lybrand

tÍfs Clockwise from top left: U.S. Bells; moxie; PMA; Royane Mosley the barn owl trust; the tyra show; stonehome antiques

Moveable Feast

Marvel at the stunning art collection of heiress Joan Whitney Payson [“Good Eye,” May 2010], on display at Colby College through June 12. Includes masterworks by Renoir, Sisley, and Cassatt. colby.edu

A modest redressing Royane Mosley is admired for her sea-glass sculptures and for controversy. When she first crafted Seaweed and Silk, her sultry mermaid was in the nude. “No galleries in Maine would sell it, so I collected more seaglass from the Lubec shoreline and clothed her,” says Mosley. The PG-13 version can be found at northerntides.com. $4,800

PORTLANDSTAGE where great theater lives

Tickets: 207.774.0465

www.portlandstage.org

Sponsored by L.L.Bean, Maine Home & Design, maine, Fast Signs, The Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram April

2011 15

COASTAL DISCOVERY CRUISES

goingson Events Calendar

2- to 2½-hour cruises

Puffins/Nature • Lighthouses Sunset Puffin/Nature Cruise • Charters

The original

MONHEGAN ISLAND MAIL BOAT EXPERIENCE 3 trips daily during summer

207-372-8848

Theater Biddeford City Theater, 205 Main St., Biddeford. Always…Patsy Cline, Apr. 29-May 15.

282-0849 citytheater.org Lucid Stage, 29 Baxter Blvd., Portland. Candide, Apr. 1-2; The Magnificent Liars present Lady. Apr. 8-9.

899-3993 lucidstage.com

W W W

.

Craig Carreno

M O N H E G A N B O A T

.

C O M

C CATHEDRAL ATHEDRAL S SCHOOL CHOOL

Universes: Live from the Edge Hannaford Hall at USM April 8

775-1491 • CathedralPortland.com

Classic Catholic Education Since 1864 Classic Catholic Education Since 1864 The Arts

Thrive at Cathedral School…

Old Port Playhouse, 19 Temple St., Portland. Dark Follies, Apr. 22-23. 773-0333 oldportplayhouse.com

Values History Science Athletics Mathematics Language Arts Foreign Languages Library-Media Center Visual & Performing Arts

Penobscot Theatre Company, 131 Main St., Bangor. To Kill A Mockingbird, to Apr. 17. 9423333 penobscottheatre.org Portland Players, 420 Cottage Rd., South Portland. Side Show, May 13-May 29.

799-7337 portlandplayers.org Portland Stage Company, 25 Forest Ave., Portland. Halpern & Johnson, to Apr. 24; The Syringa Tree, May 3-22. 774-0465 portlandstage.org

14 Locust Street

St. Lawrence Arts and Community Center, 76 Congress St., Portland. Acorn Productions presents “Maine Playwrights Festival,” Apr. 14 .

775-5568 stlawrencearts.org

In Portland’s Historic East End “Our downtown location and unique partnership with Maine COllege Of art allow students exposure to a variety of art disciplines and encourage them to experience art in their own way…just one more reason to consider Cathedral SChOOl.”

Space Gallery, 538 Congress St., Portland. Killer Joe, to Apr. 30. 828-5600 space538.org The Theater Project,14 School St., Brunswick. Readers’ Theater, Apr. 16-17. 729-8584 theaterproject.com

A Jewel in the Heart of the City

Offering a classic Catholic education and an experience beyond your expectations…since 1864.

Now enrolling Pre-K and Kindergarten for September 2011 1 6Cathedral p o r thalf-V.indd l a n d 1m o n t h l y m a g a z i n e

3/14/11 8:05 PM

University of Southern Maine Theater, Russell Hall, Gorham. Harvey, Apr. 22-May 1.

780-5480 usm.maine.edu/theater Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St., Waterville. Visiting Mr. Green, May 13-15, in Studio Theater, 93 Main St., Waterville. 873-7000 operahouse.org

Music Bay Chamber Concerts, Strand Theatre, 345 Main St.,

Universes

–Wanda E. Schiche, Director, MECA at Cathedral Art Outreach Program –Mirabai Iwanki, Artist Intern, Maine College of Art

It’s all here...

Ocean, mountains, ponds, lakes, dining, shopping and galleries – all on one island

Explore it all

Wander the charming village streets… kayak or sail along the spectacular rockbound coastline… swim or fish in a sparkling lake or pond...hike, bike, or drive through Acadia National Park

Relax and refresh

Stay at a luxury hotel… a cozy bed and breakfast… a cottage on the shore… or one of our many campgrounds

Savor the flavors

Enjoy fresh, succulent seafood… ethnic cuisine…

Maine-grown blueberries in homestyle muffins and pancakes… or a downhome good burger.... everything from fine dining to diner fare

Visit our shops

Find everything from handcrafted jewelry and weathervanes to one-of-a-kind antiques… quirky souvenirs to the paintings and pottery of local artists...

ComeToBarHarbor.com | 800.288.5103

goingson Events Calendar

Bayside Bowl, 58 Alder St., Portland. Kill the Karaoke featuring Trainwreck and the Fuge, every W. 791-2695 baysidebowl.com The Big Easy, 55 Market St., Portland. Line of Force, every M; Hip-Hop Open Mic, hosted by Shupe and Ill

By Instinct, every W; A Band Beyond Description, every Th. Cover to Cover Series every Tuesday to May 31. 775-2266 bigeasyportland.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Olinde Mandell, Apr. 7; Ian Ethan, Apr. 9; Spoken Word-Port Veritas, Apr. 12; Tricky Britches, Apr. 21. 774-4111 portcityblue.com

tion, May 7; Sean Mencher & His Rhythm Kings, May 14.

772-5483 thedogfishbarandgrille.com Empire Dine and Dance, 575 Congress St., Portland.

Maine Roller Derby After-Bout Party, Apr. 23; Dan Knudsen, Apr. 24; Meghan Yates, May 1; Nick Perry, May 8; Tyler Devos, May 15. 879-8988 portlandempire.com Jonathan’s Restaurant, 92 Bourne Ln., Ogunquit.

George Winston, A Solo Piano Concert, Apr. 9; Ottman Steve Martin: An Evening of Bluegrass & Banjo Merrill Auditorium May 18

The Choral Art Society, 50 Monument Sq., Portland. A Bluegrass Mass with Choral Art Society Singers, Apr. 30. 828-0043 choralart.org Cumberland County Civic Center, 1 Civic Center Sq., Portland. Kenny Chesney, Apr. 7; Smucker’s Stars on Ice 25th Anniversary Tour, Apr. 8; Avenge Sevenfold with Three Days Grace and Sevendust , May 1. 775-3458 theciviccenter.com Dogfish Bar and Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey, every F; An Evening with the Mutineers, Apr. 10; Alex Pressario and Friends, Apr. 17; Griffin Sherry & The Ghost of Paul Revere, Apr. 24; James Leavitt, May 5; Matt Meyer & the Junction Gump-

Liebert & Luna Negra, May 4; Iris Dement, May 13; Judy Collins, May 15. 646-4777 jonathansrestaurant.com The Landing, 353 Pine Point Rd., Scarborough. Colin Hay, Apr. 20; A Tribute to Frank Sinatra, dinner show and dance, May 6. 774-4527 thelandingatpinepoint.com Maine State Ballet, 348 Rt. 1, Falmouth. Sleeping Beauty, to Apr. 10; The Best of Broadway, at Merrill Audi-

torium, May 14. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Elvis Lives!, Apr. 9-10; Cameron Carpenter, Kotzschmar Organ Celebrity Concert, Apr. 16; The Mikado, Apr. 17; "In the Mood" Big Band Swing Revue, at South Portland Auditorium, Apr. 18; John Prine, Apr. 29; Daphnis and Chloe, Portland Symphony Orchestra, May 1, 3; Gadelle, May 7; Phil Kline’s John the Revelator, May 15; Steve Martin: An Evening of Bluegrass & Banjo, May 18.

842-0800 porttix.com The Oak and the Ax,140 Main St., Suite 107, Biddeford. Audrey Ryan, Railbird, The Rex Complex, Apr. 2; The Pleasants, Arborea, Apr. 7; Grandchildren, Apr. 17; Death Vessel, Apr. 23. theoakandtheax.blogspot.com One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland.

Jesse Colin Young, Apr. 14; Jeffrey Foucault, Apr. 15; Melissa Ferrick, Apr. 16; Portland Jazz Orchestra, Apr. 21; Hillytown Presents: Milagres, Milkman’s Union, Husband & wife, Apr . 23; Chamber Music, Apr. 25; Heather Maloney CD Release, Apr. 28; Cheryl Wheeler, Mar 5; Willie Nile, May 7; Kris Delmhorst and Session Americana, May 13; Eilen Jewell, May 14.

761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland.

Rubblebucket, Apr. 14; EOTO, Apr. 15; Talib Kweli, Apr. 29; Sparks the Rescue CD Release Party, Apr. 30; Reverend Horton Heat, May 3; Zach Deputy, May 4.

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Rockland. Hector Del Curto’s Eternal Tango Quartet, May 8; 50th Anniversary Chamber Music Celebration, May 21. 236-2823 baychamberconcerts.org

Falmouth Flowers & Gifts 899-4990 portcitymusichall.com Portland Ballet, 517 Forest Ave., Portland. The Case of the Red Shoes, Apr. 9, at Westbrook Performing Arts Center, 471 Stroudwater St., Westbrook. 7729671 portlandballet.org Portland Conservatory of Music, 202 Woodford St., Portland. Contemporary Festival, Apr. 16, 17; Honors Recital, Apr. 30. 775-3356 portlandconservatory.net Portland Ovations, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Universe: Live from the Edge, Hannaford Hall at USM, Apr. 8; The Mikado, Apr. 17; Gadelle, May 7; John the Revelator, May 15; Steve Martin: An Evening of Bluegrass & Banjo, May 18. 842-0800 portlandovations.org Portland Symphony Orchestra, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. PSO Pops! Elvis Lives, Apr. 10; Daphnis and Chloe, May 1,3; KinderKonzerts (Percussion): Sounds All Around, May 17. 842-0800, 8420812 TTY portlandsymphony.com Space Gallery, 538 Congress St., Portland. Middle Eastern Night with the Shavarsh Kef Ensemble and Alhan Middle Eastern Music Ensemble, Apr. 19; Film: The Upsetter: The Life and Music of Lee Scratch Perry, Apr. 20; Film: American: The Bill Hicks Story, Apr. 27. 828-5600 space538.org

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State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. Iron and Wine, Apr. 18; Bassnectar, Apr. 21; Cake, Apr. 23; Badfish: A Tribute to Sublime, Apr. 30; Piano Men: The Music of Elton and Billy, May 7; David Crosby & Graham Nash, Apr. 21. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. An Evening with Dana Cunningham, Max Dyer, and Carol Noonan, Apr. 15; Kerri Powers, Apr. 16; John Popper & The Duskray Troubadours, Apr. 26; Shawn Mullins, Apr. 28; Enter the Haggis, Apr. 29; Susan Werner, Apr. 30; The Spinney Brothers, May 5; Rosanee Cash Up Close and Personal, May 6; A Mother of a Craft Fair, May 7, 8; Iris DeMent, May 12.

935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com

Don’t Miss 22nd Annual Bud Light Reggae Festival, 5092 Access Rd., Carrabasset Valley. The biggest springtime bash in ski country, Apr. 15-17. sugarloaf.com 29th Annual Sugarloaf Marathon & 15K, 5092 Access Rd., Carrabasset Valley. Maine’s oldest continuously run marathon, May 15. marathonguide.com Boothbay Harbor Fishermen’s Festival, Boothbay Harbor. Cod fish relay, crafts, food vendors, lobster crate running, Miss Shrimp Pageant, Apr. 29-May 1. 633-6280 Children’s Museum and Theatre of Maine, 2 Free St., Portland. Auction 2011, Holiday Inn by the Bay, Apr. 29; Camera Obscura, ongoing.

828-1234 kitetails.org Kitchen & Tasting Tour, Falmouth. Tour of eight homes to benefit Maine Hunger Initiative, sponsored

by Fine Living Events. Chefs, cookbook authors, food demos. May 6-7. 617-620-8980 finelivingevents.com Maine Festival of the Book, Portland. Three day literary extravaganza. Opening night features Stewart

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2011 19

goingson Events Calendar

Moose Mainea, Greenville. Moose River Canoe Race, Moose Photo Contest, Moosterpiece Craft Fair, Kids Fun Day, May 14-Jun. 12. 695-2702 Ogunquit Patriots Day Celebration, Ogunquit. The Annual Patriots Day Celebration features colonial reenactments, a bazaar and craft show, restaurant tastings, casino night, kidtown and more, Apr. 15-17. 646-2939 Scratchpad Reading Series, Mama’s Crow Bar, 189 Congress St., Portland. Quarterly fiction and non-fiction reading series, May 15. scratchpadseries.com

Victoria Mansion Doll Tea Party, Maine Irish Heritage Center, 34 Gray St., Portland. Crafting along with tea and scones from Nellie’s Tea in South Portland. Owner Marianne Russo will give a brief presentation on Victorian tea time in America, May 15.

772-4841 victoriamansion.org Wabanaki Arts Festival, Morrell Gym, Bowdoin College, Brunswick. Music, artisans, crafts, drum groups, Apr. 24. 725-3375

Galleries Addison Woolley Gallery, 132 Washington Ave., Portland. Gallery group show, to April 26.

450-8499 addisonwoolley.com Art Gallery at UNE, Westbrook College Campus, 716 Stevens Ave., Portland. Critters: Farm Animals, Wildlife, Pets, Apr. 10-July 20. 221-4490 une.edu/artgallery Atrium Art Gallery, 51 Westminster St., Lewiston. A Matter of Perception, April 8-May 24. 753-6554 usm.maine.edu/lac.art

Institute of Contemporary Art, Maine College of Art, 522 Congress St., Portland. Forest, Apr. 18-23; MFA Thesis Exhibition, May 14-June 12. 775-3052.

Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Cold Waters. Cold War: The 20th Century Navy in Maine; Snow Squall: Last of the American Clipper Ships; Distant Lands of Palm and Spice: Maine Ships and mariners in Deepwater Commerce, ongoing.

443-1316 mainemaritimemuseum.org Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland.

The Lay of the Land: A Celebration of Art Acquired by the Friends of the Collection (1983-2010), to May 8; European Drawings at the Portland Museum of Art, to May 22; Portland Museum of Art Biennial, to June 5. Movies at the Museum continue with Bill Cunningham New York, Apr. 15-17; The Elephant in the Living Room, Apr. 22-24. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.com

Tasty Events Azure Cafe, 123 Main St., Freeport. Dinner in Rome, Apr. 12. 865-1237 azurecafe.com

Farnsworth Art Museum,16 Museum St., Rockland. James Fitzgerald and the Elizabeth Howard, to June 26. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org

Bar Lola, 100 Congress St., Portland. West Coast Wine Tasting, Apr. 12; Wines of France’s Loire Valley, May 10. 775-5652 barlola.net

Galeyrie Fine Art, 190 U.S. Rt. 1, Falmouth. Gallery artists show, new offerings from the Osher Map Collection. 781-3555 galeyrie.com

Black Cherry Provisions, 56 Depot Rd., Falmouth. Wine tasting every second Sa, 2-5pm. 7815656 blackcherrymaine.com

Dinner: 5:30 until Closing Prix Fixe Dinner: Wed. Evenings Thursday: Sushi at the Bar Bar Menu: “A Lighter Fare” Piano Bar: Saturday

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O’Nan and Julia Glass, April 1, 7:30 p.m. at Hannaford Hall, Abromson Center, University of Southern Maine. Other presenters include Paul Harding, winner of the 2010 Pulitzer Prize for fiction; Sarah Braunstein, a winner of the 2010 National Book Award “5 under 35”; and Julia Glass, winner of the 2002 National Book Award for Fiction. Join Christopher Corbett and Colin Sargent, Saturday, 3 p.m., as they explore frontier history and legend in their discussion: Far East to Old West–True Tales of the American Frontier. Programs for ages 3 to 100! Apr. 1-3. 871-9100 mainereads.org

Browne Trading Company, 260 Commercial St., Merrill’s Wharf, Portland. Wine tasting every third Th, 5-7pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Chef Encounters, The Salt Exchange, 245 Commercial St., Portland. Watch Executive Chef Jeffrey Hodgdon prepare your feast right in front of you at the Chef’s Table.

Reservations required. 347-5687 thesaltexchange.net Hartstone Inn and Hideaway, 41 Elm St., Camden.

Sushi and beer tasting, May 18. hartstoneinn.com Italian Life Expo, 14 Ocean Gateway Pier, Portland.

Showcasing artisans, chefs, travel organizations, wineries. June 9-11. 329-7013 italianlifeexpo.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every third W, 4-7:30pm. 7729463 oldportwine.com RSVP, 887 Forest Ave., Portland. Wine tasting every second W, 4-7pm. 773-8808 Salt Exchange, 245 Commercial St., Portland. Spirit tastings, last W of every month.

347-5687 thesaltexchange.net The West End Deli & Catering, 133 Spring St., Portland. Wine tastings every first F, 6-8pm. 8746426 thewestenddeli.com Wine Wise Tastings, The Wine Bar, 38 Wharf St. Portland. Wednesdays at the Wine Bar tastings, weekly. 619-4630 winewiseevents.com –Compiled by Diane Hudson

Making History Today Homes and Barns

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April

2011 21

Chow A tasty blend of the fabulous,

Who You Calling Extinct?

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Although not placed on the endangered species list until 1973, the last Eastern Cougar sighting in Maine was in 1938, when biologist Bruce Wright shot and killed one for ‘scientific’ purposes. In recent weeks, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services finally laid rest to the alluring prospect of “Ghost Cats” roaming our woods, declaring the Eastern Cougar extinct. Until the next sighting. Please

tell us about your cougar or catamount sightings in Maine: staff@portlandmonthly.com.

Maine’s Silent E

Tucson-based puzzlemaker Master Pieces has misspelled Maine in its “Giant USA Floor Map: Learn Your States and Capitals.”

“We’re aware of the mistake but are not going to recall the product. And yes, I know Maine has a silent ‘e,’” the customer service rep tells us.

Silent indeed. Email your outrage to us at staff@portlandmonthly.com and we’ll send it along.

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Thirtysomething Banded in Maine in 1977, the country’s oldest eagle was sadly found dead in 2010 along the international border between Calais and New Brunswick, Canada. “Many banded birds are never encountered,” says eagle specialist Charlie Todd. “The fact that we just started in 1975 and this bird was 33 means there’ll probably be more coming that’ll shatter his record.”

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Clockwise from top: Connecticut mountain lion; lobster truck; isamax; file photo; Haliaeetus leucocephal/wikimedia commons; staff photo

52 Danforth Street Portland • 774-7110 www.cranberryislandkitchen.com Think Maine lobster shack–on wheels. Of his L.A.-based delivery operation called Lobsta Truck, Justin Mi says, “People out here think we’re trying to be ‘gangsta’ when we’re really ‘Lobsta.’ We tell them that’s how New Englanders say their r’s!”

Just Desserts The whoopie pie is Maine’s new official state “treat,” having been 86ed as state dessert. Why? Lard, sugar, and dubious pedigree (Amish country, Pennsylvania, claims to have made the first whoopie).

“Ha! The Amish would never’ve used the word ‘whoopie,’ with its multiple connotations,” says Amos Orcutt of Maine Whoopie Pie Association. “Plus, most desserts do have sugar and fat, if they’re good!” Including blueberry pie–the contender (at press time) for ratification as state dessert.

Dead? Not Dead!

The death of the dream to host the aircraft carrier JFK in Portland Harbor ‘is greatly exaggerated,” says Richard Fitzgerald. “The city council slammed the anchorage site only–they did not say no to the project. Since then, we’ve cleared NAVSEA’s Phase II of the approval process, and hope to be invited into Phase III by mid-April.

“The state of Maine has sent a letter of support recommending several berthing spots including Fort Gorges, combining both ship and fort into a single attraction.”

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April

2011 23

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D e s t i n at i o n s

staff photo illustration: portland harbor Hotel by cynthia farr-weinfeld by johnny depp: pr photos

The question of the summer: Who’s bedding Johnny Depp?

Tales of the Grand Hotels

By B e n j a m i n G o o d r i d g e

R

umors are flying–the actor formally known as the Mad Hatter may be coming to town.

Crews from the upcoming Tim Burton vampire thriller Dark Shadows are Portlandbound early this summer to shoot principle photography for the Maine-based flick, with the hair-flipping actor likely to make the trip as well. “We don’t know for certain if Johnny Depp will be here or not,” says Lea Giardin of the Maine Film Office, adding to the suspense. If he does touch down here, he’d be a stunning catch for any local hotelier, even if he might once have had a penchant for leaving his shoes inside television sets, showering with champagne, and blaming his wrongdoings on a rogue armadillo. Although Depp’s 1994 trashing of the Mark Hotel in New York City is ancient history, the eccentric actor still has a taste for the absurd.

As for where Depp may bunk up during his stay on our shores, he has as many choices as Willie Wonka has chocolate bars.

April

2011 25

Perfect is Possible

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D e s t i n at i o n s

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111 Guest Rooms

HELENA BONHAM-CARTER may also be in town with the Dark Shadows crew this summer. Danforth Inn? TAYLOR SWIFT stayed at Portland Harbor Hotel while filming the music video for “Mine” in Kennebunkport last summer.

PRESIDENT OBAMA stayed with his family and secret service at the Bar Harbor Regency during a July vacation.

MICHELLE PFEIFFER , also part of the Dark Shadows cast, could choose to stay at her lakeside summer home near Waterville that she shares with husband David E. Kelley.

TEDDY ROOSEVELT and SIR ARTHUR CONAN DOYLE both had stays at the newly restored Tides Beach Club in K-port.

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There’s speculation that, like Martin Scorcese and Leo DiCaprio (after wrapping The Departed), Depp may opt–like novelist Stewart O’Nan this month–for the artsy urbanity of the Portland Harbor Hotel.

Or, the Portland Regency might suit his taste. “He’s a little on the unconventional side, so he might enjoy our history,” says coconcierge Anne Russell. If he and cast mates Helena Bonham-Carter and Maine summerresident Michelle Pfeiffer (who shares a lakeside home near Waterville with her husband, Waterville native David E. Kelley [“Hollywood and MAINE,” April 2005]) desire a secluded spot, they might choose the Inn By the Sea in Cape Elizabeth. Or maybe he’ll stick to the story, head north to find his muse, and drop into the Greenville Inn. This bungalow is reportedly haunted, and the supernatural presence there could assist Depp in channeling his inner vampire. Wherever he hangs his hat, Maine innkeepers will be ready–it’s not like we’ve never fluffed the pillow of a celeb before. n

>> More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

April

2011 27

Performance

Rachel Nichols is Soooo…in The Loop.

Leading Lady The Pitch:

Imagine a high-concept rom-com about a handsome loner who endlessly drives the big, black Loop Road around Houston at night–in search of himself and the meaning of life. When a cryptic-talking parrot interrupts the simplicity of his dark spirals, he starts to believe if only he can understand what the bird is saying and find its original owner, he might lift the veil on the universe’s deepest secrets.

With the help of the drop-dead sexy assistant librarian at his junior college, naturally.

R

achel Nichols is thrilled to have just finished shooting her first leading role after turning heads in G.I. Joe: The Rise of Cobra and Star Trek.

Reached in Los Angeles, where she’s shooting new episodes of Criminal Minds, the Columbia grad is excited about the intellectual frisson generated by The Loop and what this is going to mean for her as an actress.

“The Loop is about a girl whose dog teaches her how to listen and a man whose parrot teaches him to talk,” she says. “It’s a quirky, edgy love story. Playing Fiona was great for me, because she’s a departure from some of the roles I’ve been offered.

For the first 20 minutes, she actually annoys you. This tall, quiet giant fascinates

2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t hl y m a g a z in e

Rachel Nichols as librarian Fiona in her upcoming romantic drama The Loop.

courtesy tastego films

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All The Night Moves

There’s a lot of star dark where she grew up in Maine, so the existential loneliness of the setting, with its never-ending night orbits, was familiar to her, though the movie wasn’t even shot in Houston.

“We shot in New Mexico. There’s a lot of big and dark out there, too, with even less traffic. It was really beautiful, very sweeping, gorgeous–very dark and very cold, because we did a lot of night shoots.”

Not only was this Nichols’s breakthrough opportunity as a leading film actress, it was the first time out for director Margaret Whitton, as well.

“She’s a very successful actress, in movies like Major League and The Secret of My Success, and it was a privilege to participate in her directorial debut. She worked very, very closely with Jackson [Hurst, who plays Lyman, the night driver] and me, all the way to the wardrobe and physicality.

Among many things, she didn’t want Fiona to be a cliché.”

The big bang theory

That is, no before-and-after reveal, no shakeout of hair. Still, apart from double majoring in math and economics, how does the green girl from Star Trek transform into a librarian– superficially speaking?

“Bangs. We put some bangs on me–quirky, fluffy bangs, which were the last piece of the

courtesy rachel nichols

at SMCC

her, and she sort of stalks him.”

© Alexandra Daly-Clark

Spring Point

“I’VE GOT A GUN!”–Rachel Nichols as FBI cadet Agent Ashley Seaver mugs between takes on the CBS series Criminal Minds.

performance character that made her come together for me. We stayed away from quiet, from glasses, from muted tones. I had the dark hair. We didn’t have bookworm-type things, because it’s Lyman’s character who has the spectacular inhibitions,” the former Abercrombie & Fitch model says.

“Though you learn very quickly, Fiona and Lyman are a lot more alike than we originally suspect. They both seem to be running from themselves, but in different ways. She has this fight or flight thing and seems always to be running: new town, sets up, stays a while, then moves quickly somewhere else.

Lyman has never been past the state line.

There’s a big arc for Fiona because she goes from being the one who’s running away to the one who dares to stay.”

Run silent, run creep

Usually, neurotic personalities are played by guys destined for the geek squad, so it’s refreshing to see convention twisted to find Lyman played by a leading-man type.

“Jackson [Hurst] is one of the most charismatic, sweet people I’ve ever met. He’s obviously gorgeous and very handsome. But he is quiet! I remember hearing from casting, ‘We have this guy we like. Will you come in and audition with him?’

“I shook his hand. I felt, Oh, this is Lyman. Though he has no trouble meeting women nowadays, he found the way to his part by overexposing his younger, more shy, awkward version of himself, maybe from junior high.

“Lyman is very quiet and clearly turned off by this awkward librarian. He doesn’t talk to anyone from work. He certainly doesn’t have any friends. He’d have never gotten involved with Fiona if it hadn’t been for the crazy quest that brings them together.

“Both are loners, but they’re loners in a different way. Even at the end, there’s a calming, quiet thing about him.”

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While Tashtego Films, the movie’s producer, negotiates with the usual suspects for the most desirable release date, Nichols is gratified by the career-boosting connections she’s already made by being in The Loop.

“Margaret is a great friend now. It’s so fantastic that Joe Coomer is a Maine writer.

He came to visit on set! He’s [got a summer place] around Deer Isle [in Stonington].

1811

2011

OPENINGS FOR DAY STUDENTS IN GRADES 6-8 Financial Aid & Scholarships Available!

438 Main Street • Saco, Maine • 207-602-4408 • www.thorntonacademy.org Celebrating our bicentennial throughout 2011

(Continued on page 94) April.indd 1

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   

    

 

May We Suggest…

clockwise from top: Sailing the Catboat by winslow homer, c. 1875, Watercolor and gouache over graphite, 7.5 in. x 13.75 in.; istockphoto/eric hopkins/dalov ipcar/charles woodbury; courtesy j. crew

Style

Why stop with Winslow Homer for fashion inspiration, as J. Crew has?

We have a few modest proposals of our own…

F r o m S ta ff & W i r e R e p o r t s

T

he announcement that J. Crew’s designers had trended into Maine to find inspiration for their Spring 2011 Men’s Collection came with an aftershock: the tousled fashions were inspired by dapper, dead Winslow Homer (1836-1910) and his Prouts Neck studio, designed by John Calvin Stevens in 1883. From this perch on the seashore, Homer painted masterworks like Weatherbeaten from age 47 until he died at 74.

Frank Muytjens, leader of J. Crew’s men’s design team, says he visited the studio and was stunned by “the beautiful watercolors by Winslow Homer of the Maine coast where you can see all the different hues of the ocean.” Then individual characters stepped out of Homer’s paintings and hit the runways just in time for Fashion Week. Next year, who knows? Fashions based on the works of (clockwise, right) Eric Hopkins, Dahlov Ipcar, or Charles Woodbury might turn the trick. n April

2011 33

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“Sometimes, I feel the past and the future pressing so hard on either side that there's no room for the present at all.”

–Evelyn Waugh staff photo illustration staff photo illustration: cityscape by cynthia farr-weinfled/file photo

azine

25 Years

11/10/09

“I got the blues thinking of the future, so I left off and made some marmalade.”

2:19:25

PM

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–D. H. Lawrence

hen we published our first issue of Portland Monthly in April 1986, the world was reeling from the Challenger disaster, Ronald Reagan was president, One City Center was the new kid on the skyline. Join a few of our friends as they capture the spirit of then, now, and tomorrow.

reflections from a bookstore window Gary Lawless & Beth Leonard, Gulf of Maine Books

T

wenty-five years ago, people were buying Thin Thighs in Thirty Days,” Gary says. “Now it would have to be Thin Thighs in Thirty Hours.

“So many people in the U.S. are conducting a mass funeral for the book. But we went to the Frankfurt Book Fair a few months ago and discovered it’s only Americans who are saying this! We went to the publishApril

2011 35

580 Congress Street, Downtown Portland, (207) 772-5404 Bath, ME & Portsmouth, NH springersjewelers.com

“Cheers! Congratulations on your Silver Anniversary and your Sparkling Success!�

extraordinary perspective in there! It was pretty amazing to hear prospective tenants say, ‘Oh, I like those appliances’ on the same day others might say, ‘Oh, I love these cool black ones!’

“The exposed brick and beams of the late 1970s were still popular. You’d see Berber carpets [peach and teal, anyone?] which were supposed to wear like iron and look like wool in the bedrooms, and 12- by 12-inch ceramic floor tiles as opposed to the 18- or 20-inch ones we install today.”

How about the eternal Vermont Castings woodstove in a corner, with a Jon Legere or Alfred Chadbourn painting on the wall? Black spiral staircases, Corian counters, and big, big digital clocks?

“Track lighting. Incandescent lighting with the large cans!

“Now, everything’s becoming green, from flooring to recycled carpet materials.

There’s a lot of glass in the tile work. The spiral staircases are there, but more stainless steel and glass.”

Understatement, then dazzle.

“There’s more pin lighting, too– Circa 1987 LED lighting on cables. There’s still Tim Sample exposed brick, but a lot of people are painting the brick today as opposed ing booths of the Mongolians, the to leaving it natural. Loft-style living Iraquis, and the Iranians, among othis still extremely popular, and people ers–there are over 100 countries with take to the open concept much more booths there, it was amazing–and it than the closed rooms. Granite counwas still exciting for them to be bringters are opening up to concrete and ing their authors to the rest of the recycled glass products. You’ll see world. Many of these books are not materials like limestone, porcelain, written in English. And they probably bamboo. People used to try to hide aren’t even on Kindle yet.

“Twenty-five years ago, comedy was air-conditioning vents, especially in “As for bestsellers, in 1986, we had [squeaky-clean, family-friendly] loft-style spaces.”

It by Stephen King, Hollywood HusAbrams & Anderson. Sit in the front Now they’re statement pieces. bands by Jackie Collins, Wanderlust by row today and you’ll get vomited on.”

As for emerging trends, “We have Danielle Steel, and I’ll Take Manhattan a couple of apartments with the 1950s

by Judith Krantz. look, and people love them. I’m in “Now we have George W. Bush’s Miami right now, and there’s a store book, Sarah Palin’s book, Glenn Beck’s with very high-end retro appliances. book, and Keith Richards’s book. Still For our next project in Portland, good fiction.” we’re going to put in metal cabinets (remember the Sears cabinets of the personal space: the final frontier 1950s?)–very lime-green, yellow apCrandall Toothaker pliances that are very energy efficient n the mid 1980s, many trend-setting but look like they’re from the 1950s. apartments and condos in the Old Port To hear more thoughts from Tim Sample on how Maine humor is evolving, visit portlandmonthly.com.

Clean lines, modern.” were outfitted by Singh Partners IV. The most telling thing about apartment Developer Pritam Singh [the former Paul Ladwellers in 2011?

Bombard of Brunswick, who also developed The “How energy-sensitive they’re becomTruman Annex in Key West, among many othing. They’re concerned and really care. Aller major properties] restored an impressive portgreen paint. They check the thermal folio of Victorian warehouses and office 1. It, Stephen King qualities of our windows and ask quesbuildings and installed, in many cases, identical 2. Red Storm Rising, Tom Clancy tions. People are now asking what kind of beige Kenmore stoves and matching refrigeraboilers we have in the building and what tors, along with orange Formica counter tops 3. Whirlwind, James Clavell their energy-efficiency is–even if we’re pay(eat your heart out, Frank Sinatra).

4. The Bourne Supremacy, Robert Ludlum ing for the heat…”

Crandall Toothaker owns, re-restores, 5. Hollywood Husbands, Jackie Collins and rents many of the most beautiful apart6. Wanderlust, Danielle Steel ments in the area, including some former taking measure of our lives with Singh units. coffee spoons 7. I’ll Take Manhattan, Judith Krantz “Twenty-five years ago, a swanky kitchEddie Fitzpatrick 8. Last of the Breed, Louis L’Amour en would have shiny, all-black appliances wenty-five years ago, a new wave of 9. The Prince of Tides, Pat Conroy in enamel or glass,” Toothaker says. “And restaurants in Portland dazzled din10. A Perfect Spy, John le Carré believe it or not, ‘almond’ was still hanging ers and earned raves from The Atlantic

from top: portland magazine /courtesy ed king; courtesy tim sample/interactive media/nina fuller

culture club

I

Fiction

Bestsellers of 1986

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April

2011 37

and New England Monthly. Among them: Swan Dive, Alberta’s, L’Antibes, Brattle Street, The Vinyard, and 34 Exchange. At the time, Eddie Fitzpatrick was editor of the Maine Sunday Telegram. Today, he co-owns Pepperclub.

“When I first moved here, Portland wasn’t even a blip on the food map. Fine dining was steak, baked potatoes, and iceberg lettuce–Valle’s on Brighton Avenue. Somehow, Boone’s, without any justification, had a national reputation. It was one of the few places in Portland you could actually eat on the waterfront.

The quality of their food was nothing. ‘Boiled lobster,’ and again, ‘steak.’ For a while they brought in a genuine French food specialist and things picked up, but then he left Portland for the Samoset and it sank.

“Then there’s The Roma. As I heard the story, the owner had run a speakeasy in Detroit. He bought the Rines Mansion here–you know, Rines Bros. Department Store and WCSH-TV [now home to the

Quimby Colony and maybe a cooking school]–and opened another speakeasy. He built a loyal following” for Italian-American cuisine amid richly appointed surroundings that included a breathtaking collection of Portland Glass on display in the front dining room. For generations of Portlanders, there simply was no other place to go to mark special occasions. It was the scene of many engagements, business lunches, and assignations.

“Before Portland Magazine was launched, you had Hu Ke Lau and Pagoda, but if you wanted a good Chinese meal, you had to drive to The Silent Woman in Waterville. For fancy Italian food, you’d go to Marissa’s in South Paris.

“Thinking back on it, those really weren’t the days,” Fitzpatrick says.

“HuShang was the first good Chinese restaurant in 3 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Portland. Ken Ng had the ability to remember names.

You’d dine there and then go back a year later, and he’d call you by name. HuShang was always full. He opened [HuShang II] on Brown Street, and it was extremely successful.

“So successful, in fact, it was hard for him to keep up.

He ran into tax problems and spent time in jail.

“We lost a great Chinese restaurant. I don’t think another Chinese restaurant has matched it since.

Remember the ’80s?

None of these regulars at Gritty’s can.

“Jaap Helder, a Dutchman, came to Portland in the 1970s. After running the cafeteria at the Maine Mall, he took over the management of The Hollow Reed,” a beloved vegetarian restaurant on Fore Street.

“Then, Jaap gave Portland its first French restaurant in a tiny building on Middle Street near the police station, where Bresca is now. He brought in [food writer and chef] Dennis Gilbert [now an English professor at USM] and Paul Heroux, and together they ran The Vinyard from 1979 until 1984, when Jaap sold it.”

Also appearing on the scene: “Café Always, Back Bay Grill,” and the daring idea of DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant on Commercial Street–which helped launch the Old Port as a destination attraction.

“When the Hungry Hunza closed at 21 Pleasant Street, that location became the launching pad for Alberta’s.

“Jim Ledue filled a big niche. He wasn’t expensive like The Roma. Alberta’s catered to the middle or a lit-

extraordinary perspective tle above and served very good food. It was very comfortable there. You didn’t have tuxedo wait staff. People weren’t intimidated as they often are in very expensive restaurants.

“What spelled the end for Alberta’s Restaurant was Jimmy’s opening Alberta’s Café [a.k.a. Alberta’s 2], at Portland Performing Arts Center on Forest Avenue. He had a good idea; he just couldn’t be two places at once to supervise, troubleshoot, and put his personal touch on it, so the Alberta’s magic was diluted, and both closed. If he’d just stuck with the original Alberta’s, it

nonFiction Bestsellers of 1986

1. Fatherhood, Bill Cosby 2. Fit for Life, Harvey and Marilyn Diamond 3. His Way: The Unauthorized Biography of Frank Sinatra, Kitty Kelley 4. The Rotation Diet, Martin Katahn 5. You’re Only Old Once, Dr. Seuss 6. Callanetics: Ten Years Younger in Ten Hours, Callan Pinckney 7. The Frugal Gourmet Cooks with Wine, Jeff Smith 8. Be Happy–You Are Loved!, Robert H. Schuller 9. Word for Word, Andy Rooney

from left: captain daniel stone inn/ted axelrod; Rhonda farnham; robert witkowski

10. James Herriot’s Dog Stories, James Herriot

When I first moved here, Portland wasn’t even a blip on the food map.

Somehow, Boone’s, without any justification, had a national reputation…

–Eddie Fitzpatrick

might still be here today, even if Jimmy isn’t [Ledue died prematurely in 2009].

“After The Hollow Reed closed, there were no vegetarian restaurants in Portland. Absolutely nothing. In 1989, sensing the demand for something colorful, inexpensive, and heavily vegetarian, Jaap had the idea for Pepperclub. I was working for the newspaper at the time, and I borrowed the money to finance it. It was immediately a success, because there was no competition.”

Fast-forward to today, when Portland tops national lists as one of the top small-city cuisine meccas in the country.

“You don’t have to have the two-pound steak anymore.

What we’ve seen in the last few years is an explosion of restaurants aiming at middle-range, or a little above middlerange, prices. Even since the recession, we’ve had eight ambitious restaurants open downtown. You have The Grill Room, The Corner Room, The Front Room. Local 188 opened Sonny’s. The Salt Exchange, the new Walter’s, Grace. All in the heart of downtown, and then we have four or five restaurants on Munjoy Hill.

“I wouldn’t say the day of the very expensive restaurant has passed, but the new restaurants are very up-market, with prices many, many, many people can afford, not just the few.”

Asked why he thinks lofty Evangeline really shut down in the last year–”razored the pig,” as one wag put it, referring to the gold-leaf emblem that once adorned the bistro’s window–he says, “Prices and accessibility.

Petite Jacqueline has started in the same spot, with a very comApril

2011 39

extraordinary perspective they were all Taverna-style. Emilitsa is more of a French restaurant, only it’s Greek.”

If Alberta’s was so great, where are its spiritual descendants?

“The Front Room, The Corner Room, The Grill Room, Sonny’s. Walter’s is a wonderful addition that says [implicitly] to diners, you don’t have to have the $25 meal.

You have a half portion for $12, and for most people, that will be enough.

“That brings us to the red-sauced Italians like The [former] Village and Esposito’s. Espo’s is still going strong, but the last quarter century has redefined this category with exotic places like Cinque Terre on Wharf Street, Grissini in Kennebunkport, and the little Milanese place on Fore Street, Paciarino.”

Speaking of Fore Street…

“Sam Hayward has somehow achieved continuing national recognition from his time at the Harraseeket from when he was principal chef, ever since he opened Fore Street. National publications are continually drawing attention to him and his restaurant. He’s always on the move and innovative. He’s been very successful.

Then, too, there are places like Caiola’s with very fine dining in a neighborhood atmosphere, along with Street and Co., where Caiola’s owner/chef came from.”

How do Fitzpatrick and the other successful restaurateurs plan to keep fresh and different while looking toward 2012 and beyond?

“You have to be constantly innovative.

You have to be aware of the next new thing so you won’t be replaced by it. We always have solid meats and fish, but it’s our vegetarian food that sets us apart. People have very express, specific dietary demands. We have brown rice pasta for those who can’t eat wheat or flour; quinoa grain from South America for a different twist; and we’re now using gluten-free noodles. No matter

The first time I saw Portland…

“I saw an urban city in a suburban setting that had every type of crime you can mention–murder, rape, drugs–but it was under control.”

–Michael Chitwood Kendall Merriam kept us honest with his column, “Return of the Native.”

4 0 p o rt l a n d m o n t h l y m a g a z i n e

from left: courtesy steve meyers; file photo

forting French menu at affordable rates. For a while, if you wanted to eat out and didn’t want to spend a lot of money at 34 Exchange or places like that, you could eat Chinese or Indian as an inexpensive alternative. Now there’s an explosion of Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Korean places to spice up the options. Looking for Ethiopian? Try Asmara.

“On the other hand, where we’re seeing the biggest change in the high end is in the ethnic dining establishments, too–think of Japanese places like Miyake.

“Not to mention Greek cuisine. Before, we had Free Street Taverna, and now we have Emilitsa. When I traveled in Greece for seven weeks, I never had anything like that;

Cover Story About that 2007 Cruising World cover.

“I was chosen to be one of their Boat of the Year judges at the Annapolis Sailboat Show for several years, and that shot was taken during our boat-testing days out on Chesapeake Bay.”

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The Sailb Sh oat Issuoew

SAI LBO AT SHO W ISS UE

Stacey, Neil, and Olivia on their “houseboat” in 2006. Olivia is currently modeling and was in the recent Taylor Swift video “Mine,” filmed in Maine.

RY 200 7

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Stacey Teas Collins tacks, looks back, and finds a freshening breeze.

Stacey the newCollins sails 515 off Passport Annapol Vista Maryland is,

Canada $4.99 $5.99

clockwise from top left: file photo; courtesy stacey collins; courtesy cruising world magazine

www.crui singwor ld.com

Remember that first cover, shot New Year’s Day, 1986?

It was frigid! I had a ball getting all glammed up and wobbling over the ice in those high heels. My family had been getting our seafood at Harbor Fish for years (my dad, architect Scott Teas, owned, renovated, and worked in the Thomas Block right next door) , and it was a hilarious juxtaposition for me to be there in gold lamé. These days you often see fancy, dressed-up people in there buying treats for dinner parties!

How has modeling entwined with your life and career? I never wanted to pursue modeling but always had a variety of make-the-rent jobs. I had a couple of covers after my Portland Magazine premiere: When I was 19, my parents were circumnavigating South America aboard their sailboat and I visited them in Chile. I love Santiago. I did a cover shoot for Paula, the Chilean version of Elle. My daughter Olivia and I have modeled for L.L. Bean and others.

Was there a eureka moment that got you into writing?

We were living on our boat, totally broke. My mom had written a couple of articles for Cruising World years ago, so I thought I’d give it a shot. My first article was about fishing on a cruising boat: We were pretty obsessed with catching our dinner and had a lot of great tips to share. Then I wrote some travel pieces and features about cruising with kids. I worked hard on becoming a decent writer, landed more work for Cruising World (including a feature about Portland Yacht Services owner Phin

Sprague’s boat, Lion’s Whelp), and won several awards from Boating Writers International.

What an adventure, sailing with your husband and daughter.

It was fabulous! When I was 34, I was diagnosed with breast cancer. This was a total shock, since I had no family history, and I lead a very healthy lifestyle. It was a sobering experience at an age when few people are confronting their mortality. My husband and I were new sailboat owners, having just bought our first, small boat, and totally in love with the freedom of sailing. We’d always said that “one day” we’d take our family traveling, maybe onboard a sailboat like I had done with my own parents.

After treatment–which left me totally bald and emaciated–I realized I’d completely lost the sense of horizonless future you have as a child and young adult. Putting dreams off didn’t seem like a very good idea. So, even though we were largely resourceless, we decided to try to make our cruising/traveling dream come true. We bought a fixer-upper boat and spent two exhausting years making her seaworthy… then two years living aboard.

We sailed from Maine to Nova Scotia, down through the Bahamas, down the eastern Caribbean to Venezuela, Columbia, the San Blas Islands of Panama, and up through Central America. We were on a very tight budget. We fished for our dinners and shopped at local markets. It was incredibly fulfilling: living close to nature and each other, living in a sustainable manner, culinary exploration, lots of reading instead of watching TV.

Where is Stacey Collins Design taking you?

I studied art at Colgate. I taught myself graphic design and started freelancing: identity development, business cards, website design. Also some interior design and consulting.

Two years ago, we were ready for a change.

We’d been living in South Portland, where Olivia spearheaded the 2007 campaign to get the city to allow backyard chickens. We wanted more chickens, a bigger garden, and wilder surroundings.

We’ve spent the last two years working on our fixerupper in Cumberland. I’ve been the architect, designer, general contractor, landscaper, tiler, painter, carpenter, and sometimes electrician. We have a 1,000-square-foot organic garden, 10 chickens. In the summertime, the fog rolls over the hill from Casco Bay, and it’s like living on the boat!

How has Portland’s changed since 1985?

I’m thrilled with the awareness and support of local foods and farming here. Perhaps due to a combination of my cancer and the lifestyle we lived while cruising, I’m very interested in the various aspects of eating local, raising your own food, supporting small farms, organic farming, and the like. Olivia and I speak on urban chickens at the Common Ground Fair, and I’ve taught community programs. I raise a lot of food and preserve it for wintertime. We buy shares of locally raised cows and pigs for our freezer. I’m so proud Portland is a leader for our farmers’ markets and local food businesses. n April

2011 41

extraordinary perspective how many allergies a diner may have or how many special requests, we can handle them. Mary Paine bought Jaap out after five years or so, and she is our mainstay. She is concocting dishes, inventing dishes, finding things that look and taste good. We have an enormous amount of spice at our restaurant, but we also have haddock, scallops. It’s a constant challenge to stay afloat in Portland.” education from Isn’tIndependent that nerve-racking–to have to imEarly Childhood through Grade 12 prove and reinvent at such a dizzying pace in order to be the place Rachael Ray choos-

Waynflete Students are Artists & Athletes, Scholars & Sculptors, Musicians & Mathematicians... www.waynflete.org Independent education from Early Childhood through Grade 12

PortlandMag_DownEast.qxd 2/16/11 3:05 PM Page 1

Waynflete

The Portland Public Market was developed to galvanize the Arts District and stimulate development in Bayside, but its failure to make a profit closed the facility within a decade. The building has new life as PowerPay’s world headquarters.

es to visit when she breezes through town, shooting her show?

“It isn’t so hard that people don’t want to try to open new restaurants and experiment with new concepts. What I see now is, for every place that closes, two open.”

Crime, Punishment, Casinos Chief Michael Chitwood

file photo

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n a December 1988 interview with us, Stephen King joked that Portland was trying to market itself as a “blow-dry, Perrier, Mazda kind of city”–a pretentious, self-conscious seaport lost between where it used to be and might have been.

Police chief Michael Chitwood ran into these same contradictions when he first came here in 1983.

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“I’d never been north of New York City, so arriving in ‘the beautiful town by the sea’ was a culture shock!

“I saw an urban city in a suburban setting that had every type of crime you can mention–murder, rape, drugs–but it was under control. I’d never heard the term ‘quality of life’ in the greater Philadelphia area before I pulled in. What did that mean? I couldn’t imagine it.”

Not that there was a welcoming committee here to assure the quality of his life.

“Early on, I visited the State House in Augusta. A state rep walked up to me and said, ‘Welcome to Maine. Now go back to Philadelphia where you came from.’”

So funny, then, that he fell in love with us. “Portland is wonderful, wonderful. I still miss it, and I’m saying this from a place that is just 10 minutes from where I was born and raised.

“I go online and read what’s happening, and it’s become more unique, with more restaurants, tourism.”

Rifling through the hyperbole, the problem-solver in Chitwood can’t help but recognize, “It’s the same issue as 22 years ago, the Old Port. As it grew and became inundated with bars, the same cast of characters who should have been shut down are still acting up. The drug problem is an issue.

The burglaries, the robberies,” though he’s quick to say, “It’s still a safe state and still a safe city when you look at what’s going on in the rest of the country.”

One force making that possible is cowgirl-booted Stephanie Anderson.

“She’s an excellent DA. She does a great job. We had our battles, but her primary concern is for the safety of the community.”

He warms up to the casino question.

“I don’t buy that casinos bring an increase in crime, but I also don’t buy that the economic upturn they promise is going to be terrific, and schools are going to be able to pay teachers better, build theaters, and get new uniforms for their sports teams. The people who make money at the casinos are the casinos themselves–not the staff members, not even the regional employed management.

“I look around at the casinos in Jersey and Philadelphia, and they worked their way in here by telling everyone what they were going to do for the economy. They were going to help the tax base. Now they’re bankrupt.

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Now we have this very high level of partisanship and ideology driving the parties to the left and the right.

from top: file photo; blainehouse.org (5); Adam Chittenden; Dixon Schwabl

–Former-Gov. Angus King

Dog Blog–You can ‘like’ David Koplow and his furry friends on his Facebook fan page, The Dog Man of Portland, Maine. No doubt about it, the man has ‘hand.’

“There are at least 10 to a dozen casinos in Atlantic City, which used to be the center of the casinos on the East Coast, that are now bankrupt. The state of New Jersey has had to take them over!

“The communities themselves did not enjoy anything. The roads to the casino and the landscaping all look nice, but the upturn is not happening.”

Then there’s gun control.

“When I got to Portland, right away I let people know I was against signing concealed gun permits. The attorney general said you have to, and I said I wasn’t going to sign them! There should be zero tolerance for some individuals to get easy access to a firearm.

Guns are part of the American life. Hunters should have the ability to hunt. But to allow people who have the ability to endanger April

2011 45

1912

extraordinary perspective our community to walk around with concealed weapons…. I fought that battle the whole 17 years I was there.”

He feels the Maine chestnut of “I only kill what I can eat” offers an illusory sense of self-management to sportsmen, because “it doesn’t take criminal minds into account.”

No stranger to the national media, Chitwood made more waves during the famous Internet bullying case playing itself out in his neck of the woods, the Philadelphia suburb of Upper Darby.

Upon arresting a six-member “wolfpack” bullying a 13-year-old middleschooler (and posting episodes of his

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Vintage Chitwood. Fortunately, Maine has no bullies, yes?

“It’s all over the country. The videotape released with the laughs in the background shows how it can be. There should be zero tolerance. God forbid it could lead to other tragedies such as suicide by a victim or a victim in flight killed by a car. I think the schools have to have zero tolerance and there has to be education for everyone, not just the bully and victim. The tragedies are exacerbated by social networking–You-

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2011 47

extraordinary perspective Tube, Facebook–that fosters that gang mentality” that gets ratcheted up “by cell phones. A group against one. It’s a cowardly act. The potential for bullying has always been the same. Now it has a more public face. In our incident, there wouldn’t have been criminal prosecution had it not been for that video. When it becomes more public, the bully now has a platform to feel his 15 minutes of fame. Facebook and YouTube have not made more bullies,” just more celebrity for bullies.

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P

rotect the Working Waterfront!” was a rallying cry in this city when Portland Magazine first made a splash.

Led by Karen Sanford, the movement sought to keep marine-use only businesses close to the docks and piers where the fishing industry was located. Translation: People weren’t sure they wanted the Disney unreality of an inner-city Baltimore uprooting the ancient and fishy businesses that were at the heart of our practical charm. And the Working Waterfront Referendum won, convincingly…only to be partially unraveled recently with a loosening of some waterfront zoning restrictions.

In 2011, it’s not like Karen Sanford’s steamed or anything. Asked for a 25-year report card on the strength of our working

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DOWNTOWN WATERFRONT waterfront, she has the pith and vinegar to come out swinging: “In 1987, the people of Portland were alarmed by the displacement of fishing boat berthing and marine industry–especially on Central Wharf, renamed Chandler’s Wharf. New condo, office, retail, hotel, and restaurant proposals wanted to

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parts of the West End had generations of relatives that had been making good wages on the waterfront. The people of Portland knew what needed to be done.

“The authors of the Working Waterfront Referendum envisioned a public-private partnership to build a strong and sustainable working waterfront in order to keep our navigational and commercial ties to the sea. The Fish Pier (developed before the referendum) is our best example, but problems there only emphasize the need to be in this for the long haul, because waterfront industries tend to be cyclical and change with changes in technology or fish stocks or commerce. You can’t abandon this resource when the going gets rough. That is what protecting the public trust means.

“Unfortunately, our city leaders do not seem to view the working waterfront as a forever resource, as part of the public trust.

They seem to wait for short-term, marketdriven proposals to come along. They seem to ignore their own recent study that reveals that the highest vacancy rates are with upscale uses–not marine uses. The fiasco over the upscaling of the publiclyowned Maine State Pier; the fiasco over the Pierce-Atwood tax-reduced takeover of Cumberland Wharf; and the opening up of the zoning to more and more non-marine uses are three recent examples of how far

the City of Portland is willing to deviate from the vision of the majority of Portlanders who voted for the Working Waterfront Referendum of 1987.

“So instead of giving tax breaks and incentives to marine industries and pier infrastructure projects, the city courts hoteliers and law firms–and uses loose zoning as a misguided and lazy development tool.

“The result will be that our exceptional, natural, deep-water harbor that provides real-wage jobs and attracts so many tourists looking for an authentic, working New England seaport will soon look like any other waterfront theme park. Future generations will be denied the evolving roles that our working waterfront will need to fill, and they will resent the decisions that are being made today.”

Maine: leading, backwards and in heels Angus King, Governor of Maine, 19952003

T

wenty-five years ago, Democrat Joseph Brennan was our governor, followed by Republican Gov. John McKernan from 1987-1995. We asked his successor, Independent Gov. Angus King, if he believes “as Maine goes, so goes the nation” is still on target in 2011.

“I think the character of Maine’s leadership–which has been more independent–is where the country needs to be,” says former Gov. Angus King.

“Now we have this very high level of partisanship and ideology driving the parties to the left and the right.

“But if you go back 60 years, you have Sen. Margaret Chase Smith, who in many ways was the precursor to senators Snowe and Collins. Smith was never an insider in a Senate she shared with power-brokers like Richard Russell, Jr., John Stennis. She was never a favorite of her party. But it was she who called out McCarthy! It’s not all that dissimilar from today, when we have two senators under pressure from the establishment of the Republican Party to follow it

robert witkowski

get in on the act.

“So, waterfront business people, fishermen, politicians, neighborhood groups, and people from all over Maine gathered together to ask the people of Portland if they wanted the City of Portland to implement zoning to protect the working waterfront for future generations–whatever those future uses might be.

“Two out of three voters, in a large turnout election on a rainy day in May, said that the City of Portland needed to uphold the public trust and zone the waterfront to maintain and develop water-dependent and waterrelated jobs and industry. Almost every family on 02 Circa 20 Munjoy Hill and

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further to the right.

“Edmund S. Muskie, the great Democrat, was an independent figure who charted his own course. Young Bill Cohen was one of six Republicans who voted for the impeachment of Richard Nixon. Both were very popular with the people of Maine. Then you have George Mitchell, known for his principles and independent thinking.”

Daring to vote against party lines at times when it wasn’t expedient. Isn’t that the basis for Profiles in Courage?

“Yes! Following your conscience when it isn’t easy. Speaking of Smith, did you know when she ran in 1948, she was accused of voting along Communist Party lines by her own party?

“She was listed on the infamous ‘smear-sheet.’

According to authors, her voting record ‘lined up’ with the record of Congressman Vito Marcantonio of New York, a communist. Of course, it was ridiculous–things like ‘motions to adjourn’ and affirmations that ‘motherhood is good.’

“Her ‘Declaration of Conscience’ was just a stunning moment of courage and moderate insight. By the way, she won the primary against four men, two of them former governors. She won more votes than those two men combined.

“You’ve got me going now. Profiles in Courage was about senators who dared to vote against the grain.

Did you know [one of] the first senator[s] John F. 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

from top: portland magazine Summerguide 2010, “pet rocks”/jose azel; betthany stone/PPL; ed king;

L JOS E AZE

OUTDO

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

open concepts Brenda Humphreys

W

hen Brenda Humphreys and her daughter, Jael, first came to Portland, she was featured on our May 1988 front cover as editor of the Munjoy Hill Observer. She’d moved here in 1983 after interning at People magazine, prior to which she’d traveled on a lecture circuit with Maya Angelou. Earlier, as a Ford Fellow in City Planning, she worked on a United Nations project for the Liberian government (escaping just before the military coup, during which her former boss was slain by a firing squad). During her travels with Maya Angelou for poetry readings and book promotions, a stop included Maine. She fell in love with Vacationland.

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Kennedy praises in Profiles was from Maine?

“William Pitt Fessenden cast one of two or three votes that prevented the impeachment of Andrew Johnson. There was a huge movement in Maine and across the country to get rid of Johnson. Lincoln had dumped his first-term vice president, Maine’s Hannibal Hamlin, because he thought himself to be more re-electable if he had a person from a border state [born in North Carolina, elected in Tennessee] to help bring the South and the Union together. When Lincoln was killed, the impeachment failed, but up until then, the pressure on Fessenden was merciless.

“It cost Fessenden his career. It cost him his seat in the Senate. So now that I think of it, the tradition of people going against the grain of their party goes back at least 150 years. Joshua Chamberlain, by the way, wouldn’t succumb to pressure either, and he refused to attend a big rally in Portland designed to force Fessenden’s vote.

So there’s a direct line from Fessenden to Margaret Chase Smith to Muskie to Snowe and Collins.

“Voters like people representing Maine to be independent. Your readers are independent. Congratulations on the 25 years, by the way, because that’s no small accomplishment. The love for independence goes back to the origins of the state. Fishermen, farmers, and foresters–independent pursuits. They had to rely on themselves. They had a crusty independence, and that was part of the magic of the place. We have an identifiable character.”

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“Congratulations Portland Magazine on a colorful 25 years!”

been that long?–I was quoted as saying ‘I don’t go around with a mirror in front of me,’ meaning I can’t see the brown skin color others see. I’ve certainly experienced living in mono-cultures where people did stare, but Mainers, to their credit, didn’t. It made bridging social gaps easier. That pleased me greatly, because I am a people person. As a child growing up in the 1950s segregated South, I’m told I frightened adults. They said, ‘Brenda talks to everybody,’ and in Dixieland dismay added, ‘even the white folks!’

“Today’s immigrant populations can take solace in having greater numbers who look like them, speak a common language, or hold onto a culture, if that’s what one wants. I found Maine to be full of new, uncharted opportunities, and it afforded me a lot of ‘firsts.’ In 1988, I was a spokesperson working on a presidential candidate’s cam-

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paign, which culminated in my becoming the co-vice chair of the Maine Delegation to the 1988 Democratic National Convention in Atlanta, Georgia. On the heels of this came the offer of a position in Washington, D.C., with Witness For Peace, a non-profit working on Latin American and Caribbean issues. My hope is that new immigrants to Maine will also take opportunities to embark in the many new directions afforded them.

“It was surprising to find Maine quite racially tolerant. So much so, that in 1989 when the KKK leafleted the metropolitan area about a recruiting rally in the Maine Mall parking lot, the ‘ism’ was against other minority groups in the state (which I won’t name so as not to encourage anything). But imagine my relief.

“My daughter and I were pictured in a group at [former] Gov. Joseph Brennan’s el-

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extraordinary perspective bow in the Augusta capitol as he signed into law the state’s first official Martin Luther King Holiday to begin January 1987. That was 25 years ago. Still, the efforts of groups throughout the state that continue to make the holiday a meaningful one, no ‘butts’ about it, were heartfelt this January. Other national movements conceived in Maine during that same era are coming up on milestone anniversaries, too: Veterans For Peace; coalitions standing for justice in Central America; and the Green Party, to name a few.

“I chanced to meet up with a smileyfaced Iranian on MLK day who told me he’d moved to Portland from the City of Brotherly Love, Philadelphia. ‘People in Portland are far more friendly,’ he told me in a surprised tone, and he meant it, too. As do I.”

Old Port Pentimento C. Michael Lewis

F

rom 1980 to 1985, I lived on the corner of Fore and Exchange,” says artist C. Michael Lewis. “Phoenix Glass was on the second floor, Bowl & Board was on the first floor. I was on the third.”

Lewis’s garret studio looked down on crowds in the Old Port, couples jamming into Movies on Exchange Street. From this enviable perch, young Lewis was living the life. He was also capturing the spirit of the city with paintings such as Tommy’s Park–a luscious block of upper Exchange Street staged as curvy, giant paint c a n s . Wi t h s o many businesses launching and buildings being painted and prettied up,

the image carried the jolt of energy that “Anything is possible!”

“I did the painting to raise money to create the trompe l’oeil that still exists on the side of the building fronting Tommy’s Park facing Middle Street,” Lewis says. “Maine National Bank bought it, and then Maine National Bank gave me my first show.

Seven paintings. I can see them in my mind.

That was 25 years ago. There was a lot of corporate art collecting then.”

And it excited the market.

“Because of the Maine National show, Barridoff Galleries spotted me and asked me to be part of their gallery. They inspired me to paint in the first place! I remember walking by their place on Monument Square, looking in the windows, and telling myself, ‘I can do that. I think I can do that!’”

At least 2,000 posters of Lewis’s Tommy’s Park were made, and the trompe l’oeil became a reality. “I worked out the per-

from top: staff photo; cynthia farr-weinfeld

Police Chief James Craig, [Ten Most Intriguing People, November 2009], plans to make the people he protects his greatest resource.

5 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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extraordinary perspective spective and working drawings; Chris Dennison was the driving force for putting the mural in place. He raised $30,000 for it. He’d done his own mural there in 1975, but the wall had deteriorated from water damage coming from the inside, so another wall was added, covering it.

“Guess what happened? The wall leaked again. It’s still leaking! There’s still water inside the wall.”

Asked how collectors differ from 1986 to 2011, he says, “I can only speak from a personal experience. My gallery owner, from Gallery 127, sold two paintings to a corporate office. I asked what was it about those paintings that particularly appealed to them and felt a bit hurt when she said the buyers told her, ‘[The paintings, one of which was of HuShang on Brown Street,] went with the furniture.’ I have to laugh now, because it was a typical 1980s palette–pink and green.

“Several years later, a friend of mine went to a place selling auctioned office furniture from businesses that had gone belly up. And there were my two paintings! I guess they went with the furniture then, too.

“I make a living doing illustrating and renderings–working on commission–and selling my paintings directly through my studio. It’s to people I know. Friends of friends of friends. Clients of friends. It’s nice, because I like the contact with people. Then there’s this sidelight I have with a racing car [see pbs. org/wgbh/nova/car/my-lewis. html].” He holds a national electrathon racing record.

Lewis appears regularly in gallery shows, too, because “Painting is a basic drive. It’s doing what I do. It’s my form of self-expression. It would be impossible to stop.” He adds, “The art scene as a whole has exploded and is far better than it was earlier, with big-audience events like

inside job Deb Andrews

S

hortly after Portland Magazine was launched, “We lost a very significant treasure–the Carroll Block–across from the Victoria

Regards ag ain from Larry Thom as.

Mansion that was owned by 75 State Street,” the congregate care facility. “It was at the base of Park Row, a very significant context,” says Deb Andrews.

By lost, you mean…

“Torn. Down.”

“Landmarks was formed in 1964, so we thought we were pretty powerful. There was a huge protest. A crowd of Landmark supporters staged a rally that turned into an uprising. People were taken off in a paddy wagon.”

Exciting stuff. Who got carried away?

“Oh, let’s see. In the police van, David Turner of Carson Turner Books [was squeezed in with six others including state representative Jim Oliver]…

“People were screaming. It got…strident. In the movie Landmarks, would be a key scene, absolutely.”

That same year, “There was a fire at the Storer Mansion on Waynflete’s campus, and there was a question of whether the building should be taken down after the fire, and they decided to take it down.

“Today, it’s an open parcel where there’s a walkway connecting the western part of the campus with the rest of the campus. They kept some of the stairway–they call it ‘Waynhenge’–in a field.

“Around the same time, near the site of Two Portland Square, there was a large brick warehouse structure, four or five stories high, very much in the same vernacular as the Old Port. The developer wanted to take that down. You had planning board members saying that it was just a dirty, old building.

Historic preservationists were With a little help from record snowfalls, iconic Bean boot sales soared 57 percent this year.

from top: Larry thomas; LL Bean

y m

First Friday Art Walk and many, many galleries.” Outside the roar of the greasepaint, “There’s a lot more art selling on a smaller scale and to private collectors, too. For my show a few months ago to celebrate the new Portland Public Library–I did the artwork to illustrate architect Scott Simons’s great new designs transforming the building, and the library built a first-floor show around it–I went around and collected old work to go with my new work, because it was a retrospective. The feeling I had seeing paintings I hadn’t set eyes on for 25 years…but that others had seen every day!

I went into a lawyer’s house on Western Prom. His kitchen is dominated by a painting that I did 25 years ago.” Talk about ‘finder of lost loves’: He has breakfast with this painting every day, and he loves it!

April

2011 61

extraordinary perspective

The Money Shot!

Portland Magazine was immortalized in a tourist puzzle (currently enshrined in the men’s room at Susan’s Fish & Chips) in the 1980s; The Mariner’s Church was designed by the same architect who created Quincy Market.

shocked at that attitude. That building could have been successfully rehabbed.”

Enter the Historic Preservation Ordinance.

“I remember when the ordinance was being debated, WCSH-TV–in its on-air editorials–predicted it would put a lid on Portland’s development potential.”

That was about the time she switched from being president of Landmarks to what some might call the empowered side of public policy-making.

“It was time to fight city hall from the inside out.

I was at Landmarks from 1984-1990, and then I came to work with the city as a planner before becoming head of its historic preservation program.”

6 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Who says there’s no drama at city hall?

“I had to rewire myself a little bit. Joe Gray, who was director of the Planning Department at the time, was the one who hired me.

“He tells a story about city councilmen crying out, ‘Joe, Joe, Joe, what have you done? It’s like letting the fox into the henhouse.’ It was interesting.

Greater Portland Landmarks was definitely pushing for change.”

Big wins in the last 25 years?

“You know the warehouse where Stone Coast Brewing Co. was? After sustaining a fire, there were questions as to whether it should be torn down. [Through the ordinance], we got a second

from top: robert witkowski; cynthia farr-weinfeld

One of our all-time favorites.

Thank you, Cynthia!

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Dear Nancy and Colin

e enjoyed rtland Magazine, I hav your award-winning Po of n tio success. edi t ted firs up y err ver Since the years of unint ine’s entire twenty-five gaz ma the ing nn spa ue every iss magazine as one ME-TV profiled your WG en wh , ion cat bli pu other impressive From your first year of in Maine, through all the es ess sin bu all sm new TWENTY-SEVEN of the most successful nning an unbelievable wi ing ud ncl s–i ard aw e accomplished a milestones and national last five years–you hav the er ov s ard Aw n sig American Graphic De ition and struggle. industry of huge compet an in t fea l nta me nu mo t it has become a brigh great publication, but a n bee ly on t no has Portland Magazine ine. ts and businesses to Ma beacon attracting touris

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My hat is off to your ent Congratulations!

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7) 772-0548 d, Maine 04101 • (20 h Floor • Portlan 4t et, re St l cia er 245 Comm

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extraordinary perspective Greetings from

at 165 State Street

opinion that confirmed it was salvageable.

“The best thing about the ordinance is, it provides an opportunity for a building to speak and tell its story, and its merits to be celebrated and understood before it’s lost forever.

“The current construction of the inland side of Commercial Street is a product of the ordinance’s review process. Old warehouses have been carefully restored, and we have exciting new architecture as well. For example, there’s the addition to the W.L. Blake Block directly across from the Custom House and that new elevator tower that’s a significant addition to the Chase Leavitt Block. You can be true to your own time and honor the buildings around you. There doesn’t have to be a slavish imitation. There was a misconception that the ordinance didn’t encourage good quality new architecture and a dynamic tension between new and old,” but it’s all about working with dreamers who love this city to shape a future that’s aware of its past.

O

n July 7, 1984, three male teens threw Charlie Howard, 23, over State Street Bridge into Kenduskeag Stream in downtown Bangor–ignoring his asthmatic shouts that he couldn’t swim.

“The incident inspired a similar scene in the beginning of Stephen King’s novel It, where three homophobic teenagers throw an openly gay man over a bridge and into the Kenduskeag, there

6 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

robert witkowski

unifying differences Dale McCormick, MSHA president; LGBT Activist

Monday morning never looked so good.

PORTLAND

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We would like to congratulate Portland Magazine for 25 years of serving the Portland community!

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extraordinary perspective to be set upon and murdered by the monster Pennywise,” observes Wikipedia.

Just like the Matthew Shepard case in Wyoming, the murder of Charlie Howard made national news and injured the reputation of our state. Surely many Mainers had the right to hope, “At the very least, this particular hate crime won’t be repeated.”

Cut to April, 2006, in these ‘enlightened times.’ The charred corpse of troubled, homeless Trevor Sprague was discovered in “flames two feet high” below Harlow Street Bridge in Bangor.

According to the Bangor Daily

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News, Sprague had been convicted for “unlawful sexual contact in 2005 after he improperly touched a teenage boy who was sitting in a park near the Bangor Public Library.”

We asked former Maine State Treasurer, state senator, and current Maine State Housing Authority president Dale McCormick to discuss Maine as a tolerant place to live, 25 years ago and now.

“Nineteen eighty-six was the beginning of the first couple of cases of HIV in Maine.

People were very scared. Gay people–we were fighting in the Maine State Legislature for our civil rights. Not only had Charlie

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Howard been thrown over the bridge two years earlier, in debate in the Legislature there was such barnyard language used to describe gay and lesbian people that Speaker John Martin of Eagle Lake had to clear the house of children. At the Statehouse. Reactions to gay people were based on fear and ignorance.

“Ironically, what the HIV epidemic did was to bring a lot of straight people into the fight–mothers, fathers, sisters, brothers, extended families, and friends of people who contracted HIV either through sexual or blood contact.”

Asked how big President Obama’s recent decision was to direct the judicial department to ignore existing precedents against same-sex marriage going forward, McCormick says, “It was huge.

Do you remember the Twinkie Defense, which was used when Harvey Milk was shot?

Then, you could go up to someone who’s gay and say, ‘Well, I was all hopped up on Twinkies.’ Now, what President Obama is saying, and the Supreme Court hasn’t agreed yet, is that if there is discrimination against gay and lesbian people, it should be judged with the same standard as black people, women, people of other

Clockwise from top left: Mad Horse Theatre is also celebrating their 25th anniversary– their first production was The Lover; Gulf of Maine bookstore owner, Zen master poet, and friend to countless Maine authors Gary Lawless; C. Michael Lewis’s Tommy’s Park poster helped fund the creation of the mural fronting the park along Middle Street; Tracing the Fore has been a modern-day clash of artistic sensibilities between our city and ourselves. If nothing else, it got a lot of people talking about art.

7 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

from top: mad horse theatre; file photo; Bethany stone/c. michael lewis; staff photo

extraordinary perspective

Congratulations, Portland magazine, on 25 years!

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cultures–and considered with strict scrutiny. It’s a big step.

“So we go from barnyard language in the House of Representatives in 1986 to–in this decade–when [LD 1020 aka] the Civil Marriage Bill passed the Legislature, it took 46 hours because so many people wanted to be on the record to show their support with their vote. It was unbelievable. We were crying it was so moving.

“Culturally, 25 years ago, we had stereotypes of gay people as predators in movies like Silence of the Lambs. ‘Today’ we have Will and Grace and Queer Eye in re-runs. Cultural heroes who are gay and lesbian. Lady Gaga coming in support of gay and lesbian soldiers at Deering Oaks Park.

“Twenty-five years ago, there was a handful of gay, lesbian, transgender [people] and a few of their moms advocating for an end to the discrimination of gay and lesbian people. Now it’s the youth of Maine.

They are appalled there’s any discrimination against gay and lesbian people and in disbelief that gays and lesbians have to earn the right to marry.”

So, our youth won’t tolerate intolerance?

“The movement grew up and left home.”

W

hen we launched Portland Magazine in 1986, we billed ourselves as “a new magazine for an exciting city,” and anything was possible. Now, we’re an exciting magazine for a new state–poised to reinvent itself. Everything is possible. n

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Cruise

Dollars&Sense

Portland will host a record 59 cruise ships this year, carrying

B

eginning every June, thousands of tourists descend from giant, pearly white ships onto Portland piers, wide-eyed, excited, and clutching fistfuls of cash. It’s a city’s dream scenario–so where does the money go?

Three Scenarios

Jane Shopsalot* steps off the boat at the shiny, new Ocean Gateway megaberth and heads directly for one of the twenty or so buses lined up to whisk passengers to exotic locations like Freeport, Ken-

nebunkport, and the White Mountains. With her pre-paid shore excursion ticket to Freeport in hand, she boards the bus headed north for a couple hours of bargain shopping. All told, she’ll spend $50 for the Freeport tour and $145 on goods and services while there. Here’s who’ll get what: Cruise line: $30 (an estimated 50-60 percent of the tour ticket price) Intercruises: $5 (this international corporate ‘middle man’ gets an estimated industry average of 10-15 percent for each ticket) Local tour operator: $15 Shops: $145 (chain outlets and local boutiques) Sarah Stayslocal* chooses a Portland tour after which she strolls around the Old Port. She’ll spend $50

7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Control

over 89,000 passengers. Show us the money! on the tour and $75 on goods and services.

Tour breakdown: See above Food establishments: $30 Apparel: $25 Household items: $20 John Navigator* works on the ship as one of almost 1,000 crew members. He has this day in port off. He heads out on the free shuttle to the Maine Mall. He needs batteries and a new pair of jeans, for which he’s planning on using his 25 percent off coupon for Banana Republic from a coupon book complimentary of his employer. He’ll spend about $45.

National apparel chain store: $40 National electronics chain store: $5

catching The first wave

robert witkowski

A number of waterfront businesses have successfully adapted to take advantage of the cruise-ship influence. At DiMillo’s on the Water, passengers account for 15 to 20 percent of lunch busi-

by K a r e n E . H o f r e i t e r

ness when a ship pulls in.

“We are definitely busier on days the liners are in town,” says Steve DiMillo, Sr. “There’s no denying our location [on Long Wharf] helps, and so does our focus on serving up local flavor.”

Topher Mallory, owner of Mexicali Blues chain, also surfs the wave. With two boutique retail attractions on Moulton Street and four more stores in Southern Maine, “We certainly notice the difference when cruise ships are in town. The increase in tourists was a catalyst for opening our second store on Moulton a year ago.”

The objective, he says, is to predispose their disposable income the moment they tie up to the dock.

“We make an effort to reach the multichannel consumer through social media and e-commerce. We make passengers aware of our online store, we follow up with them through our Facebook page…”

Still looking for the crystal ball

Not that everyone feels the bump. Shops located further from

*Averages taken from the 2008 University of Maine-Orono passenger survey study, Economic Impact of Cruise Passengers on Portland, Maine.

April

2011 75

Dollars&Sense the waterfront and boutiques selling specialty merchandise like fine art, jewelry, and beauty products admit to feeling adrift.

“We might see some, but it’s a very small percentage,” says Rachel Lynn Watson, manager and buyer for Bliss, a boutique on Exchange Street.

extra staff and increase inventory.”

first impressions

To better understand Portland’s opportunities, let’s consider what we do right now the moment a ship pulls up to a pier.

Janice Beitzer, executive director of “The corner of Hancock and Fore Streets is the perfect corridor for Portland to locate a new set of high-end stores. Imagine Burberry, Angela Adams, Michael Good, Ralph Lauren…”

second impressions

As for what the passengers are seeing when they look through their portholes beyond the futuristic architecture of the Ocean Gateway Terminal, the city claims, “Portland has a great [berthing] location, welcoming and attractive. Some ships drop you off at ports located in industrial parks.”

A quick stroll down Hancock Street, which spills off the gangplank of Ocean Gateway, tells a different story–vast expanses of parking lots and empty storefronts abound.

The need for high-end retail here, fulfilling the original visions for Ocean Gateway, is palpable, and it’s a bit hard to believe at first glance that the charm of the Old Port is less than a quarter mile away. As one passenger on cruisecritic.com puts it, “Recommendation–Stay on the ship!!!! [Exiting] the boat… sidewalks were in horrible shape…. Many buildings [were] vacant with graffiti and litter throughout the streets. Public restrooms were awful, and I honestly felt unsafe.“ Contrast that with a review of Bar Harbor from the same site: “A beautiful trip into port and an equally beautiful port town! The views in the harbor are outstanding!”

City planners take note: The future waits for us at the foot of the pier.

opportunity calling

Nelly Hall, proprietor of CS Boutique on Fore Street, says “It’s difficult for many of us to predict the impact we will see, and it varies [without much of a trend] from ship to ship,” she says. “The perception is that we can include cruise passenger patronage into our business plans, that cruise tourism is our bread and butter. But for me and other [merchants] I’ve spoken with, it’s a challenge to know when to add 7 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Portland Downtown District, says, “The CVB and PDD have met the cruise ships for 15 years. Info agents in L.L. Bean gear are there right as people get off the cruise ships. Every passenger receives a Downtown Portland directory. We have several visitor booths and ‘experiential learning’ booths–informative but with no sales involved–on the dock, along with a band– sometimes Don Campbell.”

Cash send-off?

Meanwhile, the urban myth that busses lined up at the head of the pier are all headed out of town would lead anyone to ask, “Why are they driving income away from Portland?”

It’s an understandable perception, especially when the average tourist off to Freeport spends double what they would spend if they stayed in Portland.

The UMO study tells a different story.

Less than five percent of passengers head to

Cardente Real Estate

Sure we have public transportation but it is not the same as a free step-off trolley that would put all of Portland’s stores, restaurants, and museums at tourists’ feet.

Cardente Real Estate is dangling gorgeous office space as bait for high-end retailers: “5,400 SF on the ground floor of the Ocean Gateway Garage at the corner of India and Fore Streets.

One block up from Portland’s Ocean Gateway Terminal and eastern waterfront. This retail space is ideally located next to the new Marriott Residence Inn, close to the Old Port [with] great access and exposure to all the cruise ship passengers disembarking from the Ocean Gateway Terminal.”

Alluring: the $18 per square foot rate that compares to $30 in the Old Port.

Knee deep in the hoopla

Cruise Line International estimates the cruise industry contributed $34.5 million in direct spending to Maine’s economy in 2009 (up 19 percent from 2008), but these figures come from numbers furnished by CruiseMaineUSA–the very consulting company that works to market cruise tourism to Maine and Maine to cruise lines, so it’s in their best interest to keep the rose-colored glasses on.

In all, cruise tourism accounts for a little less than one-half a percent of Maine’s estimated eight billion dollar tourism industry.

The spillover possibilities are what we make of them.

Creating a retail attraction around Ocean Gateway sounds like job one for our new mayor & city manager.

Drumming up new business should be their priority.

Freeport, and Freeport spending accounts for less than ten percent of total spending.

Additionally, according to Patrick Arnold, executive director of Discover Portland & Beyond, a consortium of local merchant and visitor organizations, “A variety of shore excursion destinations entices passengers to book a cruise, and plays favorably with the cruise lines when deciding which ports to visit. Having tours to popular places like Freeport helps keep the ships coming to Portland in the first place.”

And it shouldn’t be overlooked that, while the City of Portland bears many of

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2011 77

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the costs associated with hosting cruise ships (including infrastructure creation and maintenance and marketing to cruise lines and visitors), it also receives money from the ships themselves (such as per-head passenger fees, dockage, tug boats, waste management, and fuel).

Regardless, could Portland be doing a better job in some respects to capture more dollars?

Shore excursions are typically booked in advance, so the number one way to make the bucks stop here is to entice more people to get off–and stay off–the ships. According to industry averages, around 30 percent of passengers stay onboard at a port-of-call. If they do get off the ship, many passengers choose to return at lunch and spend the afternoon participating in the endless multitude of onboard activities. So how to lure them onshore?

The takeaway that may be eluding us is high-end retailers and local artisans have an interdependent appeal. As one traveler puts it, “I tend to buy from local shops, but I like to see that upscale stores are in the area.” National brands also have the cash to advertise in the cruiseline-provided local shopping guides (no Portland retailers currently advertise presumably because it is cost-prohibitive). Properly used, such advertising would encourage passengers to step off the ship, get in the shopping mix, and eventually work their way to local businesses in the Old Port, finding the ‘local, artisan’ merchandise the vast majority of them are looking for (UMO study).

7 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Colin W. Sargent

Think globally, shop locally

The opportunity is there–high profile businesses like Shipyard Brewing Co. are already set to locate in the ground floor of the Marriott Residence Inn. With luck, we won’t miss the boat. n

>>More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

April

2011 79

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Lost Horizon

T a l k i n g w a ll s

In the mid-1980s, One City Center rose from the geomancy of The Golden Triangle, a miracle of urban feng shui. But with the buildup of the rest of the Old Port, can the wind meet its water?

robert witkowski

T

By L e a h W h a l e n

wenty-five years ago, $22 million One City Center was designed as a bridge between the skyscrapers of Monument Square and the nightclubs and restaurants of the Old Port.

Where has all the chi gone?

“For ten years, the so-called Golden Triangle was a 160-car parking lot: the most valuable piece of real estate not only in Portland but the entire state of Maine,” says Patrick Venne, a Portland attorney who specializes in land use and urban development. “It was the last undeveloped part of downtown.”

To capitalize on the space, the city briefly thought of building a new public library here. They also considered and rejected a plan for a park. Finally, in 1982, the city put out a request for proposals from architects and developers. Two finalists emerged: The Fisher Group of Albany, New York, and Finard & Company of Burlington, Massachusetts. Finard & Company had, of course, built the neighboring One Monument Square (“New Fa-

John Moon’s Portland,Then and Now (Arcadia Publishing, 2009) boasts a picture of the building that stood on the same spot before One City Center–a triangular structure with a large sign on its roof urging us to “Use Electric Light and Power.” This anvil, along with its neighbors, was torn down by Portland Renewal Authority to make room for the future (out went Edwards & Walker hardware; in came One Monument Square).

April

2011 81

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çade in Town,” May 2010); their proposal included a hotel and was favored by the city manager at the time. But city planners ultimately chose the Fisher Group’s design for a 12-story, mixed-use high-rise.

“One City Center actually ended up being thirteen stories tall, which is 138.5 feet tall, 13 feet above the then height restriction of 125 feet,” Venne says. “Also, once finished, it was 18 inches off the mark–encroaching on city property.”

The city, he notes, quickly settled these legal matters.

Even before unveiling, One City Center was filling with companies eager to become part of the ‘next new thing.’

“It actually leased at a higher rate than the new Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market retail spaces,” Venne laughs.

Today, the building plays host to a food court and an impressive variety of businesses, including Dirigo Management Co., WBLM, Scottrade, Bank of America, Harborview Investments, Dunkin’ Donuts, and City Deli.

The diversity of tenants, coupled with the central location, creates a unique feeling. “It’s a very open, accommodating building,” says Jonathan Crasnick of Eagle Point Companies.

He’s worked in One City Center for five years, but his history with the building goes further back: “I went to Portland High, where we had an open campus, so I’ve been coming here for lunch since I was 15.” As a teenager he felt welcome in the crowds in the food court; as an adult, he says, “You feel a better connection with the city and you get to see what the city has to offer just by coming to work every day.”

But not everyone feels the building fulfills its promise of being a connector between areas of the city.

“The design competition turned into a development competition. Opportunities were really missed,” says a local architect who wishes to remain anonymous. Another architect, also insisting on not being named, says flatly, “This building fails to connect with the outside; there’s no way for someone passing by to know what kind of space is inside. It’s a flop.”

“Even though it fades back attractively to open up viewing room and sunlight, it created a dark alley,” says an observer. “Considering its central location, it should have been more like a fountain, approachable from all

directions. That is, a fountain has no ‘back.’

And unless the Food Court realizes its promise to have exciting, bistro-style ethnic restaurants in the Quincy Market tradition as originally touted, pedestrians should be allowed to walk under the building and depart from any side,” as though it were on stilts, to recapture One City Center’s promise of connecting two worlds, one taller, one shorter.

“The reason One City Center is designed in a fashion that ‘steps’ down as it heads south is to provide a means of seamlessly integrating the Central Business District with what was at the time of its design the still-emerging Old Port Exchange, a lowrise neighborhood,” Venne writes in his Mainely Urban blog. “…To a large extent, it seems this plan worked,” though few imagined the subsequent tall buildings that would be built between One City Center and the Old Port’s waterfront, blocking the lost horizon One City Center was designed to open up and protect.

Functional bridge or barrier,what will the next quarter-century hold for One City Center? The building recently underwent an energy upgrade, making it more efficient and saving its owners a projected $78,000 a year in energy costs. New high-profile tenants continue to lease space: The Portland Press Herald, for example, recently moved its offices here.

Venne says, “As we see a move back to the center of cities, demand will just increase for places like One City Center.” n

>> More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

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2011 83

CUIscene Judith Gaines

Passing the Torch In the 1980s, food was theater. A culture driver today, does it verge on social statement?

8 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

The state’s population was growing, especially in Southern Maine and along the coast, bringing a more diverse and demanding clientele. People with sophisticated palates, especially in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, discovered Maine as a place for fun and tasty getaways.

orable dining experiences. Another change was the degree of professionalism in the kitchen, DiMillo notes. “It wasn’t cool to smoke cigarettes while we fried clams.”

Soon Portland was at the forefront of exciting new trends. At Fore Street, chef Sam Hayward was cooking whole animals before anyone called this “nose-to-tail” dining. At Hugo’s, chef Rob Evans experimented with sous-

I

f you’d like a taste of what people ate in the 1980s, watch American Psycho: “For an appetizer, I ordered radicchio with some kind of free-range squid. Anne and Scott both had the monkfish ragout with violets.” The 1980s were the height of nouvelle cuisine and all its pretensions: tiny portions of overcomplicated food piled vertically on oversized white plates dotted with exotic fruit sauces; pan-blackened everything; decadent sea urchin butter; and “death by chocolate.”

Grace Restaurant lights up the local ‘culinary art’ scene with dishes like seared baby octopi with white beans, while art deco matchbooks from trendy 1980s hot spots provided the spark for post-dinner cigarettes–back when smoking, white linens, and wait staff still went together.

“Don’t laugh,” an observer says of today’s smokers huddling outside restaurants. “People are so sensitive with their diets now, one day soon, meat may be the new tobacco.”

Previously, restaurants had been under the direction of “restaurateurs, promoters like my Dad,” says Steven DiMillo, Sr., whose family opened DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant (now DiMillo’s on the Water) in 1982 on the Portland waterfront. But increasingly, “the focus turned to the chef.” These chefs often owned their restaurants, with maybe a partner or two, and their creative vision drove kitchen staffs, producing interesting cuisine and mem-

vide and other innovative techniques before they became known as “molecular gastronomy.”As the reputation of the state’s fishermen, farmers, and foragers grew, topnotch chefs around the country were calling on Maine for the best ingredients. The local food community took note. Says Bob Bartlett, who opened the state’s first winery in 1983, “We were locavores before anyone heard the term.”

Another development was “better access to quality ingredients from around the world,” such as fine wine and olive oil, says food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins. “Back in the ‘80s, you couldn’t even find fresh garlic.”

Food served by the new Portland restaurants not only tasted brighter, fresher, and more imaginative; it also looked immeasurably better. Grotton, who owned South Portland’s Channel Crossing–the see-and-be-seen dining destination in the ‘80s–recalls how plating then “was very flat and round, designed to show all the food.” Changing times brought “more vertical designs”–more entertaining, artsy dishes in intriguing shapes with textural

from top: file photo; cynthia farr-weinfeld; file photo (3)

I

n the past 25 years, chasing Portland’s ‘cuiscene’ has been a delicious experience.

Back in the ‘80s, Portland had “just about a dozen feature restaurants,” radiating from the restored brick warehouses of the Old Port, recalls Dick Grotton, president and CEO of the Maine Restaurant Association.

This became the core of a fine-dining mecca that now boasts “more than 400 restaurants of every imaginable description–places that can satisfy a wide range of discriminating palates,” he says.

Here, chefs found attractive, affordable, accessible spaces for their eateries. As Andrew Knowlton, national restaurant and drinks editor for Bon Appétit magazine, observed, Portland was “well-positioned to take advantage of the food revolution that was underway around the country.” It had the bounty of the Gulf of Maine. It had a well-educated community with a sympathy for small, independent businesses. It supported local farmers growing high-quality produce and folks making hand-crafted specialty foods such as artisanal bread, beer, cheese, and smoked fish. This, he says, “was a perfect storm.”

Many of the chefs were young talents, trained elsewhere, who thought Portland would be a fine place to raise a family. Like so many of us, they were drawn by Maine’s stunning natural beauty. And unlike other cities, where chefs were “very competitive and cut-throat,” Portland “was welcoming; its chefs helped each other out for the greater good. That attitude is what brought me here,” says Steve Corry, chef at 555 Congress Street.

Demographic changes were also at work.

Our City… contrasts and their own architecture.

In 2009, Portland was nationally recognized as “America’s Foodiest Small Town.”

Locals witnessed the arrival of “a new category of culinary tourists who come specifically to experience the food,” says Don Lindgren of Rabelais, Portland’s renowned bookstore for food and wine, itself a food-lovers’ mecca.

The city had an unusually large number of small, chef-owned restaurants serving elegant and not especially expensive food. Lobster shanties along the coast drew raves from around the world. Maine had more organic farmers per capita than any state in the nation and became a leader in the push for local, organic, and sustainable foods. Says Knowlton, “Portland didn’t jump on the bandwagon. It was the bandwagon.”

Portland also witnessed an explosion of ethnic dining options beyond Italian and Chinese–including Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, Greek, Indian, Mexican, and Korean, as well as some imaginative reinterpretations of traditional cuisines using local ingredients–at popular restaurants like Miyake, Emilitsa, Figa, Green Elephant, Boda, Tu Casa, and El Rayo.

As for the next 25 years, Knowlton expects “more farm-to-table restaurants where the restaurant sits on its own farm”–a trend following the model set by places like Melissa Kelly’s Primo in Rockland. Lindgren thinks the spirit that sparked nose-to-tail meat-eating will inform fish consumption, encouraging better use of the bycatch and every part of the fish. He also anticipates the continuing decentralization of the restaurant scene, as fine chefs venture into lesser-known Portland neighborhoods and deeper into the state, “with more restaurants opening in spots where you never thought you’d see a really good place to eat.”

Bartlett foresees increasing support for locally-produced foods and beverages as transportation costs continue to rise, as well as more green restaurants and other food purveyors pursuing alternative energy sources.

Grotton hopes restaurants will serve smaller, less expensive portions. And with the growth of Portland’s international population–residents and tourists alike–he expects to see more ethnic restaurants, “so that anyone from almost anywhere will be able to find something familiar and pleasing to eat here.

That’s restaurant nirvana.” n

…Your Way!

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April

2011 85

Hot: A Lloyd Manufacturing chrome-plated steel and vinyl sofa, circa 1940.

Estimated at $7,000-9,000 from Christie’s Auctions.

T

Hot Not

“If only I’d invested in that $200 chair, $600,000 ago!”

In some cases, we may be drinking the he last 25 years have seen huge changbathwater while throwing out the baby. “A es in the antiques trade. Generational high-end Kittinger reproduction has been shifts and changes in taste have always known on occasion to sell for more than an impacted the markets, but with the addition original piece of period furof Internet selling and nanosecond trend setniture, as long as the origiting of the cyber nal is in the less-thanage, market oscildesirable restored state,” lations are faster says Richard Keating of J.J. and more furious Keating Auctioneers. than ever.

When asked, “What When I asked a sells now that did not sell cross-section of 25 years ago?” the answers Maine dealers and include 1950s and 1960s auctioneers, “What chrome and glass and sold well 25 years ago, anything from any style but doesn’t sell well or era if it is bold, unusunow?” the routine al, and graphic–the joke was, “Everymore ‘usual’ examples thing.” But then they languish at half their got more thoughtful former levels. At reabout specific objects cent auctions in that ruled the market That Girl, But Not That Linen Press: English Chippendale oak linen press that belonged to Marlo Maine, anything a quarter century ago: Thomas, star of That Girl. Estimated at $3,500great sold strongly, Victorian and Mission 5,500, it sold for $4,060 by Northeast Auctions. while traditional style oak furniture, carAmericana often went begging, with one manival glass (inexpensive iridescent glass imihogany Federal desk bringing $100 against tating Tiffany art glass), and china of all types. an estimate of $1,200.

The most dramatic shift has been a move Declines of trends and prices are mostly away from furniture and decorative arts that in the lower and middle markets. The highruled the 20th century, a.k.a. ‘brown’ furniture er ends of every category are strong, and (traditional 18th- and 19th-century American trading is lively, yet confusion reigns. One and English mahogany and walnut); pewter; piece will sell, another will not. Mid-cenand Chinese export porcelains, particularly tury furnishings by famous makers comBlue Canton and its imitator, Blue Willow.

8 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

mand prices once reserved only for benchmade 18th-century pieces.

Nowhere is the gap between high and low market better illustrated than by a ‘brown’ chair that sold at Christie’s in New York in January. In the Hepplewhite style with a shield-shaped back, it is part of a famous set carved in the late 18th century by Samuel McIntire for the Derby family of Salem, Massachusetts. Other examples from this set–one of the most famous from early America to survive–are in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and at Winterthur Museum. The chair, estimated to sell for $30,000-$50,000, drew gasps at $662,500. For comparison, ordinary examples languish on the market at $2501,200. n

>>

More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

Mahogany and ebony chair carved by Samuel McIntire in 1795. A sibling chair in this set sold through Christie’s for $662,500 in Jan.

From top: Christie’s images ltd. 2010, northeast auctions- Ronald Bourgeault, Winterthur side chair bequest of henry francis du pont 1957.693

Marketwatch Brad Emerson

20% AND MORE OFF STOREWIDE! Please join us for good food, fun company, and great discounts! Can’t make it in person? Don’t stress... All offers apply online at www.americanaworkshop.com 111 York St. (Rte. 1), Kennebunk, Maine 04043 207.985.8356 • Toll Free 877.619.0903 Open 7 Days 10-5 • www.americanaworkshop.com

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Americana Workshop is the place to indulge in your passion for antiques and folk art. Our showroom is filled with plenty of custom-made furniture, fresh antique furniture pieces and all sorts of country and antique accessories for your home. Craftsman Cynthia Hamilton has many cupboards, dressers, cottage pine bureaus, chairs and trunks.

diningguide Fine Dining in Maine 51 Wharf Restaurant & Ultra Lounge Indulge in the chef’s avant-garde cuisine, w/exceptionally creative courses, local ingredients done from-scratch in our kitchen & the freshest seafood. We serve local Maine lobster, a menu w/savory chicken, & steak & pasta. Available for private parties & events. 51 Wharf St., Portland’s Old Port, 774-1151, 51wharf.com. * Anthony’s Italian Kitchen Voted “Best in Portland” three years in a row. Pizza, pasta & sandwiches. All homemade recipes, including lasagna, chicken parmesan, eggplant parme­san, meatballs & Italian sausages. Variety of hot & cold sandwiches.

Beer & wine. Catering available. 151 Middle St., lower level, Portland, 774-8668. *

73 Mile Road Wells, ME 04090

207-646-2252

www.wellsbeachsteakhouse.com

Billy’s Chowder House makes seafood dreams come true, serving the freshest seafood around, whether fried, grilled, broiled, stuffed, or over pasta. The chowders are all homemade & the lobster rolls have been featured in Bon Appétit.

Surrounded by the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge. 216 Mile Rd., Wells, 646-7558, billyschowderhouse.com.

The Black Tie Market & Bistro will satisfy anyone’s craving for great food served w/flair & fun. Now serving light breakfasts & lunches & everything you need to entertain at home. Made-toorder paninis & wraps, soups, home-baked desserts, & fresh salads.

Try our candy bar, gelato, or a great bottle of wine. Now hosting wine tastings! 756-6230, theblacktieco.com.

Boda is a “Very Thai” kitchen & lounge. Delicious selections of Thai home-style entrees, street-vendor inspired grilled skewers, tapas, & a full bar. Vegetarian options available. Come experience an eating culture of Thailand! No reservations & parking available.

Late-night menu served until 1am. Open Tu-Su from 5pm-1am.

671 Congress St., Portland, 347-7557.

Brea Lu Cafe has been serving up breakfast & lunch for 23 years!

Favorite menu choices include 12 specialty omelets, build-yourown breakfast burritos, Belgian waffles w/ fruit, eggs Benedict & homemade corned beef hash. Lunch features homemade chili, fresh made-to-order sandwiches, burgers & wraps. Open daily, 7am-2pm. 428 Forest Ave., Portland, 772-9202.

Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious scratch-made sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskies. Live music five nights. Open 7 days 11:30am-1am.

Kitchen closes at 10pm weekdays, 11pm weekends. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com.

216 Mile Road Wells, ME 04090

207-646-7558

www.billyschowderhouse.com

Clementine Restaurant 44 Maine St., Brunswick. ChefOwner Dana Robicheaw offers the culinary expertise he acquired at Johnson & Wales & other Portland fine dining establishments. Exquisite food & fine wine in a relaxed atmosphere. Join us for a three-course, prix fixe menu for only $25. Tu-Sa 5-9pm. 721-9800, clementinemaine.com DiMillo’s On the Water serves the freshest lobster, seafood, Black Angus cuts of beef, Italian fare & more. DiMillo’s offers fabulous views of the water in Portland Harbor from every table Famous lobster Roll, clam chowder, haddock chowder, lobster stew & delicious salads. Serving from 11am. Commercial St., Old Port, 772-2216, dimillos.com.

Eve’s at the Garden takes a fresh and local approach to food.

Chef Jeff Landry uses ingredients from Maine’s coastal waters and farms: jumbo scallops, naturally raised pork and beef, sustainably raised fish and shellfish and Maine lobster prepared Mediterranean style. Free dinner valet. Lunch 11:30-2, dinner 5-9:30. 468 Fore St., Portland. 523-2040, portlandharborhotel.com.

Fish Bones American Grill A casual upscale restaurant offering creative American cuisine. Specialties include grilled thin crust flatbreads, unique entrée salads & creative dinner offerings. Located in the heart of Lewiston in the historic Bates Mill complex with off-street parking. Come get hooked!

Lunch & dinner Tu-F; dinner only Sa; seasonal brunch Su. 333-3663 fishbonesmaine.com. *

60 Mile Road Wells, ME 04090

The Third Best Irish Pub in New England - 2010 New England Cable News

207-641-8550

CONTINUE

8 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Grace A 160-year-old Methodist church engulfed by huge cathedral ceilings & beautiful stained-glass windows. Our eclectic menu & house-infused cocktails provide a perfect atmosphere for any occasion. Reservations are recommended w/ample seating at our circular 30-seat bar, or in our comfortable cocktail lounge.

Open Tu-Sa evenings at 5pm. 15 Chestnut St., Portland, 828-4422.

The Great Impasta, a long-standing restaurant located on Maine St., serves Mediterranean-inspired food w/ a concentration on Italian dishes. This restaurant is a favorite of both locals & those from away. Incredible, fragrant aromas from the open kitchen hit you the moment you walk through the door. Vegan & gluten-free menus available. 42 Maine St., historic Brunswick, 729-5858, thegreatimpasta.com.

Great Lost Bear A full bar w/70 beer taps of Maine & American Craft breweries & a large Belgian selection. Menu features salads, burgers, a large vegetarian selection & the best nachos & buffalo wings in town. Discover where the natives go when they’re restless! Every day 11:30am-11:30pm. 540 Forest Ave., in the Woodfords area of Portland, 772-0300, greatlostbear.com.

Hurricane Restaurant Executive Chef Brooks MacDonald literally wrote the book on lobster, Lobster Tales: Recipes & Recitations Featuring the Maine Attraction. Serving only the freshest seafood, menus change daily. Award-winning wine list, in-house pastry chef and contemporary New England cuisine–Maine dining the way it should be. Open for the season April 8, 2011. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport.

967-9111 hurricanerestaurant.com Jacqueline’s Tea Room & Gift Shop Authentic afternoon tea in an exquisite English setting. Over 70 of the finest quality loose-leaf teas to accompany your four-course luncheon of scones, finger sandwiches of all kinds & desserts. Great for intimate conversations & parties. Reservations only (not required for shopping). 10:30am-3pm. Tu-F & alternating weekends. 201 Main St., Freeport, 865-2123, jacquelinestearoom.com.

Jameson Tavern is one of the oldest historic taverns in Maine and is said to be the site of the signing of the papers separating Maine from the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The Tavern has a bar and dining room and serving seafood, Maine lobster, steaks, pasta, and awardwinning clam chowder. Our lobster stew was featured on FoodNation with Bobby Flay as a “fine Maine Restaurant.” 115 Main St., Freeport, 865-4196 jamesontavern.com * JP Thornton’s Bar & Grille offers upscale, fresh cuisine in a casual pub setting. Known in the Portland area for having a “Cheers-like” atmosphere, locals & those who stumble across this hidden jewel of Foodie favorites can enjoy hand-cut grilled steaks, fresh seafood & house appetizers w/a great selection of microbrews & specialty cocktails. 740 Broadway, S. Portland, 799-3100.

Little Seoul Restaurant Authentic Korean cuisine and sushi bar in a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Quality food at reasonable prices.

The service is excellent at Portland’s newest culinary experience.

Located in the heart of the Old Port. No reservations needed.

Open for lunch, dinner and takeout M-Th 11:30am-9pm, F-Sa until 10pm. 90 Exchange St., Portland, 699-4326.

Lotus Chinese and Japanese Restaurant, 251 U.S. Route 1, Falmouth, Maine (Falmouth Shopping Plaza). We feature fullservice bar and lounge area, sushi bar, Chinese traditional food not available outside of Boston, friendly atmosphere and courteous service. 781-3453 Margaritas Mexican Restaurants & Watering Hole! Always free hot chips & salsa, legendary margaritas & the house specialty, the sizzling fajita. Happy hour M-F 4-7pm & free hot appetizers.

242 St. John St., Union Station Plaza, 874-6444 & 11 Brown St. near the Civic Center in Portland. Other locations in Lewis­ton, Augusta, Orono & Portsmouth, 774-9398.

Maria’s Ristorante, est. 1960 is Portland’s finest Italian cuisine. Maine Sunday Telegram’s 4-star restaurant.

Homemade sausages & the finest meatballs around, thick Veal Chops a la Maria, Zuppa De Pesce Fra­diavolo, homemade gelato & Italian-style cakes. “Preserving the authentic Italian dining experience.” Lunch & dinner Tu-Sa, $13-$25. 337 Cumberland Ave., Portland, 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

Miss Portland Diner, a Portland original. Visit the famous 1949 Worcester diner car serving breakfast all day & homemade diner classics. Beer, wine & liquor. Open daily from 7am-9pm. Located at 140 Marginal Way, Portland, 210-6673, missportlanddiner.com.

www.varanos.com

EGENDS BEGI L TRADITIONS N

The Good Table “Honest, good food.” Made-from-scratch brunch, lunch & dinner. A well-rounded menu w/choices to please every palate. W/inspired blackboard specials, the kitchen always takes advantage of locally-grown produce & seafood. Full bar w/seasonal cocktails. Seasonal hours. 527 Ocean House Rd., Rte. 77, Cape Elizabeth, 799-4663, thegoodtablerestaurant.net.

BULL FEENEY’S portland’s pub

773.7210 375 FORE STREET IN THE OLD PORT WWW.BULLFEENEYS.COM FIND US ON FACEBOOK

One Dock Creative, contemporary New England Cuisine & traditional Maine favorites in a relaxed setting overlooking the Kennebunk River. The menu offers “small plates,” such as duck spring rolls, flatbread signature pizzas, pan-seared scallops in a maple glaze & a lobster & chipotle cheddar macaroni & cheese, proving to be fan favorites. W-Sa 6-9pm. Kennebunkport Inn, Kennebunkport, 967-2621, onedock.com.

Pat’s Pizza offers a full bar & family dining experience in the heart of Portland’s Historic District. Pat’s offers a full menu of appetizers, entrees, desserts & of course, pizza! We also have a large selection of salads & sandwiches for lunch. Large parties

welcome, please call ahead. Located at 30 Market St., Old Port, 699-4455, patspizzaoldport.com.

The Pepperclub/Good Egg Café Two favorites, same location!

The Pepperclub (“Best Vege­tarian” & “Best Value” in Frommer’s Guide to New England) has creative world cuisine. Blackboard menu lists five vegetarian, three fish & three meat entrées, including an organic beef burger. Relaxed, affordable dining on the edge of the Old Port w/free parking. Pepperclub, daily from 5pm; Good Egg Café, Tu-F 7-11am, Sa-Su 8am-1pm. 78 Middle St., 772-0531, pepperclubrestaurant.com.

Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter Morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room w/ stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, w/its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com. *

restaurantreview Diane Hudson

Northern Comfort

Pom’s Thai Taste Restaurant, Noodle House & Sushi Bar was voted “The Best of Portland ‘09” by Phoenix readers, w/ vegetarian & wheat-free options, a kid’s menu, made-to-order noodle soup & $1 sushi every M & Tu. 571 Congress St., Portland, 772-7999. Also in S. Portland, Pom’s Thai Restaurant at 209 Western Ave., 347-3000 & Thai Taste Restaurant at 435 Cottage Rd., 767-3599, thaitastemaine.com.

Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill An upscale sports bar serving creative pub food in a fun and comfortable atmosphere.

Known for some of Portland’s best casual food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game!

Conveniently located in Portland’s Historic Old Port District.

774-6044, rivalriesportland.com Saeng Thai House Authentic Thai food, w/an upbeat tempo & tantalizing dishes-zesty flavor awaits you here. Entrees include crispy noodle pad Thai, house specialty seafood choo chee, pad Thai, ginger fish, Sushi & much more. Eat in, take out, or delivery available. 267 St. John St., Portland, 773-8988, & Saeng Thai House 2 at 921 Congress St., 780-0900.

The Salt Exchange American-style tapas, using local, organic & sustainable ingredients. Extensive beer & wine list. Wine tastings W 5-6:30pm include complimentary canapés. Open for lunch Tu-Sa 11:30am-3:00pm & dinner 5:30-9pm. (F-Sa, until 10pm).

Lounge open Tu-Sa 11:30-close. 245 Commercial St., Portland, 347-5687, thesaltexchange.net.

Silly’s, chosen “Best Bargain” by Yankee magazine now features something for everyone including weekend brunch along with vegan & gluten-free options. Silly’s staff, voted “Best Service” by Phoenix readers, presents all-scratch kitchen food in a whimsical setting either inside or in the garden patio. Open Tu-F 11am-9pm and Sa-Su 9am-9pm. 40 Washington Ave., 772-0360, sillys.com.

Stonyfield Cafe (formerly O’Naturals) serves natural & organic flatbread sandwiches, tossed salads, rice & noodle bowls, soups, kids, meals, organic tart frozen yogurt & Sunday Brunch. Quick service for people on the go…but our leather couches, wireless internet & comfortable atmosphere will entice you to stay.

Chicken, roast beef, wild bison meatloaf, wild Alaskan salmon & many vegetarian items–there’s something for everyone. Route 1, Falmouth, 781-8889, stonyfieldcafe.com.

Twenty Milk St. U.S.D.A. prime & choice steaks & the freshest seafood, combining award-winning classic American cuisine w/ fine wines in a warm & inviting atmosphere. Crab cakes w/lemon shallot mayonnaise, baked escargot, charbroiled chili-lime scallops & sumptuous desserts. Complimentary valet parking.

Dinner daily; also breakfast, lunch & brunch. Portland Regency Hotel, 774-4200, theregency.com.

Varano’s Italian Restaurant Food so good, you may never cook again. W/stunning views of the coast & the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge. The best Italian food north of Boston. The menu offers signature Italian dishes & special family recipes & the comprehensive all-Italian wine list is a Wine Spectator award recipient since 2002. 60 Mile Rd., Wells, 641-8550, varanos.com.

from top: diane hudson (2); file photo

Vaughan Street offers breakfast and lunch. Soups, salads, baked goods, tortilla rollups, traditional sandwiches and our specialty: fresh-baked focaccia sandwiches. Daily we make sandwiches that promise a unique and delicious experience. You’ve gotta try it! Conveniently located across from Maine Medical Center. 235 Vaughan St., Portland. 277-8993, vaughanst.com Walter’s is one of Maine’s most popular restaurants. Chef/ owner Jeff Buerhaus is inspired by global influences. Seasonal menus are accented by creative daily specials. Extensive wine list & inventive cocktail creations complement menu offerings.

M-Sa lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner from 5pm, bar menu 2:30pm-midnight. Su brunch 10am-2:30pm. 2 Portland Sq., 871-9258, waltersportland.com.

Wells Beach Steakhouse & T-Bone Lounge serves prime & all-natural steaks, fresh seafood & delicious salads, w/Kobe sirloin steaks, set in a plush atmosphere. Enjoy a selection from the highly allocated new world wine list, or a signature Wells Beach martini under the starry ‘sky’ of the lounge. 73 Mile Rd., Wells, 646-2252, wellsbeachsteakhouse.com. * Yosaku Authentic Japanese culinary experience, designed by owner/chef Sato Takahiro. Premium sushi, sashimi & rolls, plus traditionally cooked Japanese cuisine for the sushi-shy. Best deck dining overlooking our tranquil Japanese garden & waterfall.

Lunch M-F 11:30am-2pm, Sa-Su noon-3pm. Dinner 5-9:30pm, F-Sa 5-10:30pm. 1 Danforth St., 780-0880. *reservations recommended

Buck’s ‘Naked’ lunch and dinner is down & delicious– roadhouse style.

U

pon entering the rough but warm roadhouse atmosphere, immediately it hits you–the aroma of good, old-fashioned barbecue. The sweet, smoky scent is just a teaser for Buck’s Naked BBQ’s smorgasbord of Southern delights.

Meat waits for no man. Even the cocktails have a touch of down-home ‘cooking.’ The “Bloody Buck,” is a twist on the Bloody Mary, dressed with peperoncini, olives, lemon, lime, and–the crowning glory–a single, juicy baby back rib.

This is a drink to chew on.

For starters, we have the chicken wings (starting at $ 7.99)–a treat Buck’s imaginatively sneaks into the barbecue category. Hickory-smoked to perfection, these wings are meaty, tender, moist, and finger-lickin’ messy. We choose the rich blueberry sauce, but other options include jerk, chili lime, buffalo, and “Ring Your Bell HOT!” Catfish fingers ($8.99) arrive next. Having enjoyed this delectable critter always in the South, I am wary of the dish’s ability to hold up to my fond memories. It does–and my expectations are surpassed. It’s prepared splendidly, lightly breaded and served piping hot. I have my eye on the pan-fried catfish ($15.99) in lime butter with cherry tomatoes for a subsequent visit.

This time, however, we go whole hog with the meat, sharing the Big Buck Combo ($15.99), giving us plenty to sample and savor: brisket, pulled pork, chicken, and sausage. The BBQ here is cooked “naked,” without sauce. Instead, meats are rubbed with a dry spice mixture. The flavors are deep and smoky, and the varied table sauces are a lot of fun and quite delicious. We dip ours in everything from classic BBQ to “Magic Strawberry” to the sweet-and-spicy “WNC Skinny Dip.” The front runner, however, is the “South Carolina Mustard BBQ,” resulting in an Buck’s naked BBQ audible “Mmm-mmm” of appreciation. In true Southern 568 U.S. Route 1, Freeport tradition, our combo is served with fluffy corn bread, Open daily from 11 a.m. braised collard greens, and corn nibblets.

865-0600, bucksnaked-bbq.com Stuffed and satisfied, we pack up our substantial leftovers to go and head out, leaving in our wake the signs of a darned delicious meal: sticky napkins, empty plates, and a table spotted with chin-dribbled sauce. n

>> Visit Restaurant Reviews at portlandmonthly.com.

April

2011 89

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Dreamiest Catch Crosby Leveen knows how to stay shipshape at sea– just don’t call him ‘crabcake.’

W

i n t e r v i e w b y t a r y n crane

hen he isn’t keeping in shape by wrestling monstrous king crabs or breathing in that crisp, Bering Sea air, Crosby Leveen can be found casting a line in his native Maine. We caught up with the hunky deck hand from Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch to talk crustaceans, life onboard The Wizard, and why Mainers make perfect fishermen.

Where do you call home these days?

I grew up in Manchester, Maine, but I don’t have a residence; I’m kind of a vagabond.

What makes a Maine fisherman unique?

People say they’ll hire a fisherman from Maine for one of two reasons: They’ve never done it before or they’ve never had to fire a Mainer. We’re cool and have a great work ethic. There’s just something about how we grow up here.

Taryn Crane

Your best 30 seconds at sea?

The first time I ever looked for the green flash at sunset, and I saw it!

Fishing is really a lot of B.S. and busywork, but it’s moments like that when you feel completely alive.

Your worst 30 seconds?

We had a bad wave that smacked April

2011 91

Dr. Nancy Sargent Dr. Irina Babayan

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interview the boat and I couldn’t see three of my crew members.

Where do you like to fish when in Maine?

Small Point.

Does the Discovery film crew ever get in the way while you’re fishing? Tell us about that.

[What they get in the way of is your feelings.] They love it when it’s your worst day.

Just when you’re upset and don’t want to talk to anyone, that’s when they want you to answer questions.

You have a degree from the University of Vermont. Did you plan to make a career out of fishing for crab?

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When I graduated [with a degree in Aquatics and Environmental Management], I was supposed to “grow up,” but I didn’t know what I wanted to do. I could make good money by fishing.

Do you receive royalties? How much do you make fishing?

No royalties. For income…I do just fine.

If someone wanted to make a movie about your life, which actor do you think would play you?

Someone unlucky. [Maybe] Heath Ledger, but he can’t play me in a movie unless we’re in an alternate universe.

Favorite sea creature?

King crab–they’re so darned tasty!

Where do you like to hang out in Portland?

J’s Oyster, Fore Street, Rosie’s.

Has being on the show affected your lifestyle?

Not really. My friends are always there to remind me that I’m just a big dummy.

A recent study by the Maine Department of Labor indicated that Maine had one of the highest death tolls for fishermen in the U. S. How do you feel about that?

It doesn’t really surprise me. I assume there are many guys out there fishing by themselves, which always opens the door to small problems turning into big problems. The waters are cold, so hypothermia is a real threat. On The Wizard, life jackets are becoming mandatory. We are fined $50 if we come out on deck without one on.

Will you be on all of season seven of Deadliest Catch?

I’ll be on the first half. I went back [to The 9 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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Wizard] because they asked me, but I got tired of the show and left. Everyone was struggling. No one was catching anything. It was just a really hard season.

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So now that you’ve left the ship, what are you up to?

I’m flying to Kenya. It’s a personal trip. I want to check out the Great Lakes of Africa.

There’s supposed to be great fishing there. I might stop in Maine before I go, check with my parents to see if they need me to do anything with the yard and other stuff…

Any idea how long you’ll be gone for?

No idea. I’m flying stand-by, so I’m just going to pack a bag, bring a couple of pairs of shoes, and be on my way. n

>> More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

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Leslie R. Gass, D.O. provides traditional, cranial, and biodynamic Osteopathic Manipulation for pediatric, adult, and geriatric populations. Treating multiple medical problems including neck and back pain and other musculoskeletal issues, fibromyalgia, headaches, sinusitis, asthma, pregnancy-induced pain/swelling, colic, birth trauma, and newborn feeding issues. Contact 773-7330, 535 Ocean Ave. Portland, maineosteopath.com.

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April

2011 93

performance Leading Lady (continued from page 31)

[Oscar-winner] Philippe Rousselot, The Loop’s cinematographer/director of photography who did Dangerous Liaisons, Big Fish, and the Sherlock Holmes movies, is a wonderful friend, too.”

In fact Rousselot departed to work on Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows directly after finishing The Loop.

There’s a Romanian saying, “If you don’t have an old one around you, you’ll invent one.” As for what it was like working with Buck Henry in The Loop, Nichols says, “I never had any scenes with him. I’d most recently seen him playing Liz Lemon’s father from 30 Rock. Margaret has some extraordinary friends who came in and played with us.”

From indie to Blockbuster

And now for something completely different: Nichols is also in post-production from shooting the mammoth action-adventure drama Conan the Barbarian.

“It was big budget, filmed in Bulgaria.

Completely surreal. I never shot anything in Europe for three months in a row before this. I

9 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

shot G.I. Joe in Louisiana for three months and then a month in Prague.”

No, not conan o’brien

Far from being a librarian, Nichols plays a heroic swashbuckler named Tamara in Conan the Barbarian–your basic princess who rides horses a lot and is unperturbed by the gnashing of metal.

“We didn’t have a week of rehearsals. It’s less character driven and more story driven. If I’m the goodie, there’s Rose McGowan, who plays the bad girl, and Stephen Lang [Avatar], who plays Rose’s father.”

As for joining the horsey set, “I’d never really gotten to ride a horse in my life until I got to Bulgaria. I wanted to look good and know what I was doing, so I had to work at it and grew to love it.

“My favorite horse was named Blanco, all white. Another one I liked was La Pizza, or at least that’s what the name sounded like.

“The horse I didn’t like was the horse Conan rides in the film–his massive horse Rodolfo. He was so big I was petrified of him.”

Rodolfo’s menacing coat alone threw

her, because it seemed to change according to his mood. “Dark gray or potentially black. Just a threatening presence. Just having to ride as the second person on his back was quite scary.”

I’m screaming as fast as I can

Even scarier, perhaps, than the acting assignment that led to Nichols winning MTV’s Best Frightened Performance award for her bloodcurdling shriek in The Amityville Horror in 2005–something she still laughs about.

“I played the babysitter. The clincher scene was in the closet, when the little girl who plays the imaginary friend comes in and sticks my index finger through the bullet hole in her forehead. You sort of see me leaving on the stretcher in a catatonic state. I was also hanged in the same movie. It’s so funny; my mom will avidly watch the bits where I die.

My dad, on the other hand, has no interest.”

Coming Full Circle

Not that her lucrative TV career has been suspended while her film star rises. How loop-like is it that she’s twice been asked to

courtesy rachel nichols

roar of the greasepaint–Rachel Nichols gets ready for her close-up in Conan the Barbarian.

play a recurring character on high-visibility series–first on Alias with Jennifer Garner and now on Criminal Minds, playing FBI cadet Ashley Seaver?

“I love shifting gears from film to TV. The schedule on TV is so different than something on film.”

For the Criminal Minds gig, “They invited me to come on for three episodes to join a cast that has been working together for five years. A popular character [known as J.J.] had recently departed, and there was this kerfuffle among the fans that I was brought in to replace her, though the only shared trait was we were both blondes. The first was well received by the fans, and they decided to ask me to come on permanently. I’m in Episode 10, 11, 12…and on Episode 15, I’m back. After that I’m in every one.” Factoring in residuals and reruns, how’s that for looping the loop? n

>> For a full list of Rachel Nichols’s screen credits, visit port-

landmonthly.com. To see Nichols’s Amityville scream, visit: http://www.mtv.com/videos/movies/82634/best-frightenedperformance-rachel-nichols.jhtml#id=1528989

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2011 95

HOUSEOFTHEMONTH Colin W. Sargent

Garage Envy

all photos courtesy Nathan Varney/Keller Williams-the hatcher group

Built for a Portland Savings Bank exec, John Calvin Stevens’s homage to the chateau shines, both inside and out.

I

f you pass by the facade of 111 West Street, just off the Western Prom, you’ll see it sparkles. It’s as though this John Calvin Stevens-designed chateau built for banking magnate Edward W. Cox in 1905 was touched by a magic wand and covered with angel dust upon its unveiling.

“Every four layers up, the brick has a different finish,” explains listing agent John Hatcher of The Hatcher Group. “The alternating patina of these undulating bricks lends texture to the house and gives it ‘animation,’ as a survey by Greater Portland Landmarks calls it.”

Another winsome note: “See this leaded-glass sidelight to the right of the front door? Stevens loved tulips. They’re a big motif in the English cottage he April

2011 97

HOUSEOFTHEMONTH

Our City…Your Way!

Culture • Nightlife

built for himself at 174 Craigie Street in 1918, and here, he anticipates that with circles representing tulip bulbs that spring into full flower as your eyes travel to the top of the design.”

Which makes this palace appropriate not only for our April edition of Portland Magazine but also for our 25th anniversary issue.

If you crave historic homes in the West End, April is the coolest month, especially in the case of this $1.095-million listing, which has been known to induce garage envy in neighbors and house-hunters alike.

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next-door, spent years trying to buy the ga(207) 832-6337 Food For Al rage at 111 West Street, “theBeautiful finest in Port04572land,” and*"Ê ÝÊÈÓnÊUÊ7> ` L À ]Ê Êä{ use it for his garageless (207) 832-6 Prom-facing house, >ÕÀ>V>L ÌV>ÌiÀ }°V “but the only way to *"Ê ÝÊÈÓnÊUÊ7> ` L have split it was to condominiumize it,” Hatcher says. It didn’t have the >ÕÀ>V>L ÌV>ÌiÀ setback requirements. “He offered $150,000 for it,” but to no avail.

Some of the neighbors refer to this garage as “Sabrina” because it reminds them of the garage and chauffeur’s quarters where Sabrina’s father lives in the Audrey Hepburn movie Sabrina [1954, directed by Billy Wilder and co-starring Humphrey Bogart].

The slate roof and paneling with cement floor are a magic place for you to lose your Mini Cooper.

“You could keep maybe eight cars in here,” Hatcher laughs. Or three barouches and a team of horses. A snaky wall system of

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The second floor is held up by stalwart turnbuckles, with the vaulted roof a postand-beam marvel. Who says John Calvin Stevens never designed a man cave (car collector Jay Leno take heed)?

Tiptoe through the tulips to the mansion’s main front door and you’re swept away by the grand staircase with inglenook seat built into its base to the left of a center hall deftly designed for entertaining.

The large salon to the left “has beamed ceilings, built-in bookcases, as well as a large fireplace with a built-in cabinet, another one of John Calvin Stevens’s trademarks.”

The library charms with “a fireplace, cove ceiling, and three walls of bookcases.”

The large fireplace and handsome oak paneling in the dining room’s wainscoting channel the Aesthetic Period above a calm sea of quarter-sawn oak.

“The sellers have kept the original floors

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with their silvery patina, because they love them this way,” Hatcher says.

Next is the butler’s pantry, with one of the most memorable radiators we’ve seen, a horizontal three-decker designed “either to warm dough or plates.” Or mittens.

A zinc sink and Carrera marble counters and backsplashes make you feel as though you’ve stepped into a Merchant-Ivory film.

The kitchen has a Garland six-burner, commercial grade stove with grill and double oven, along with a stainless Sub-Zero refrigerator.

Stepping through the doorway to the third kitchen space, Hatcher says, “This is the scullery,” also in Carrera marble and stainless.

The sink and spigots match the period without seeming forced. Rather than push their own interpretation on the house, the sellers seem to have understood its personality through an extended conversation.

The massive fireplace in the salon has Arts and Crafts paneling and a mammoth bay window.

The second floor has a big gallery hall that wheels round to multiple vistas (a Stevens

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your home? trademark) of bedrooms .

Built-in linen storage areas and annunciators take you back in time but afford you plenty of room for your thousand-thread counts. The master bedroom has musical views of the Prom. At one time, you could see the former gazebo Stevens designed near the statue of Thomas Brackett Reed for soft waltzes.

Long and lovely, the ballroom on the third floor is ready for your next amateur theatrical production of The Children’s Hour.

The billiard room has exquisite, darkgreen stained paneling below Lincrusta tulips edged in gold leaf so apt they might have quickened even Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s heartbeat. Above the paneling is original wallpaper with art-nouveau sailboats. n

>> More: Visit Online Extras at portlandmonthly.com.

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Completely transformed from its bungalow beginnings, this fascinating home in the college area has been tastefully and creatively expanded into a unique and fabulous home. To focus on special features: red birch cabinets, wet bar, bamboo flooring in the kitchen; French doors to the deck in the dining room; window seat, “library corner”, fireplace with propane stove insert in the living room, master bedroom with custom his and hers vanities, 2 bedroom guest suite, double lot, heated, salt water in-ground pool. $475,000.

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N e w En g l a n d H o m e s & L i v i n g

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fiction Robert Graves

I

was nine when I saw the island.

Dad had promised us one last snowmobile trip before the final melt, which in the upper parts of Maine usually comes in March. We’d always get one or two dustings after that, sometimes as late as May, but nothing that would stick. Nickie was four that winter, only a few months before he got sick. He was wedged between Dad and me, his blonde locks exploding from beneath his hat.

The three of us had been sitting motionless for almost a minute, breathing in gas fumes from the idling engine, staring across a field – a logging field, the kind of place that feels haunted with ghosts of fallen trees and men who must by now be long dead.

It was the grandest thing I had ever seen, a field too big to manage in one eyeful. I looked everywhere and nowhere at once The remains of the trees littered the field like shrapnel after a war. Black stumps peeked through the melting snow as frozen, hooded faces, the holes left by rotted knots their screaming mouths. There was a string of these stumps, arranging themselves as an archipelago across a white sea, and it led my eyes to the island, a small cluster of trees still standing amidst the surrounding ruins. Dad cut the engine and the sudden silence made everything in the field feel closer. I heard a hawk call from the direction of the island, then saw it rise and soar away from us.

“How many acres you think this is, Cass?

Five?” Dad asked.

I said sure. I didn’t know. It would slowly crystallize over the years that what Dad meant was not five acres, but five hundred.

“Dad?” I asked.

“Yeah.”

“Why didn’t they cut those trees?” I pointed to the island.

“Beats me, Cass.” He stared at it a long while, maybe just noticing it for the first time. I looked too, trying to imagine why the logging men would cut this whole field, but leave only that small group in the middle. There were maybe a hundred trees, huddled tightly together as though it were the place they had gathered and made their final stand against

than they had seemed from farther away. The oddity of the island was even more apparent up close, this ancient group of misfit trees that had somehow survived the fate of the forest around them.

I could see light through the other side of the island, just barely. “Stay close in here, alright?” Dad said. “Follow me.”

He stepped into the island and Nickie followed, with me last. I peered behind me and had one final look into the never-ending field, and when I turned back I found myself in a forest. Everything was very much alive here, the crackling of twigs beneath our feet present and close, a stark contrast to the far echoes of hawks and engines rolling across the plain. Maybe the trees on the inside didn’t even know there had been a war just a few feet away from their border.

Dad made his way through the claw-like branches, always turning to check on Nickie’s progress. After only about ten steps, Dad picked him up. Nickie looked back over his shoulder and stuck his tongue out at me, finally mustering the courage to return my gesture. He quickly turned and buried his face in Dad’s neck.

“How long ago do you think the loggers were here?” I asked Dad as we continued our trek.

“Oh…fifty years ago? Maybe more. Your Grampy Owen was a logger, you know.”

“Did he cut these trees?”

The Island

1 0 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

the loggers and their axes.

“Can we drive over there?”

“You see those stumps Cass’? They’d eat this sled alive. You wanna walk back?”

“No!” Nickie whined, squirming between us. Dad chuckled.

“Don’t you worry Nick, I’m just teasing,” he said. “You and your sister aren’t walking anywhere.” I nudged Nickie and he looked back at me. I could barely see his eyes through the blonde mop of curls. His plump cheeks were the color of brick, his lips wet from constant licking. I made a face at him. I wanted to see the island and he was ruining it. * * * * * * * * * * * Soon we stood before the island, dismounted next to the lifeless sled, our necks arched upward in strained unity. The trees were taller

I

t starts in June with vomiting. At first we think Nickie has the flu. A week passes.

And another. He is getting worse, more lethargic with each day. On the CT scan the tumor is almost two inches across a brain that is barely four inches wide. It takes just six months for the cancer to kill him, and I am once again an only child.

I don’t cry. I’m sad, but I can’t. I don’t understand why. Mom turns into a vapid, empty shell. When she hugs me I am afraid she might crack into pieces. Dad is better than mom, but they buried a part of him with Nickie, I am sure of it. The part that used to laugh more when we watched a funny movie, the part that smiled even after the photo was taken; that part is missing. I watch him sometimes when he doesn’t know, and I look for that part, because I miss it. * * * * * * * * * * * At first it is easy to remember Nickie the way he was, before the chemotherapy and radiation took away his golden hair and plump cheeks. I remember him spread on my father’s chest while they

napped together on the couch. This is how I see Nickie, at first.

Soon I remember him in the hospital, bandaged after surgery. Then I see him thin and pale and bald. And when I try to think of him on the couch with Dad, it’s wrong. His round cheeks aren’t covered with ruddy splotches like they should be. His ringlets aren’t draping over his forehead in cascading blonde spirals. The image is polluted, my own thoughts and nightmares seeping in and distorting its colors and textures. When I see him sleeping in my father’s arms, he is sick and broken.

I decide to protect that memory by only thinking of it quickly and carefully, like looking at a photograph in the rain – a quick glance, and I put it away.

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One day, while they were sitting on the porch, her ex-boyfriend asked her 8-year old nephew Henry what he was doing in school.

“I’m still doing stars and planets,” Henry said.

John pointed out the window at some twinkles in the dark sky.

“Are those stars or planets?” he asked.

Henry shook his head without looking up from the game.

“Those are astronauts,” he said.

Which was the beginning of Getting Off the Earth.

* * * * * * * * * * * A year passes and I am eleven. Mom and Dad decide I should go to counseling. I don’t have a choice. I say okay.

Nickie isn’t real to me now. I wonder sometimes if he had really existed. The pictures everywhere tell me that he did, but I don’t believe them. That is another girl’s brother in those pictures. Maybe they are just the pictures of strangers that come with the frame when you buy it.

I tell this to the counselor. He assures me that Nickie was real, and that I am doing something called disassociating. He tells me I need to remember everything I can about Nickie and write it down. This will help me, he says.

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It must not be helping because the memories begin to feel like stories, and I can’t remember which parts really happened and which parts I am making up. The stories become shallow to me, uneventful. I write about a night at the movies. I

Getting Off the Earth

Heidi Wendel

“Well, maybe I guess.” It was getting hard to understand him between his breaths. The thin, frigid air was winding him.

The snow was shallower the deeper we transgressed. The branches above us were draped in a thin layer of ice that was once snow, forming a mob of white, icy fingers twitching in the breeze. Dad let Nickie slide down the front of him while he rested with his hands on his knees. I kept walking ahead and after a quick glance or two in either direction, Nickie decided it was okay to follow me. I reached back and took his hand.

How do you know if you’re really being dumped? Could it just be a test of the emergency break-up system to make sure you can leave the relationship in an orderly fashion in the event of a real break-up?

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2011 109

fiction

write about a day we went snowmobiling.

Nothing happens in the stories, we are simply there. * * * * * * * * * * * “Cass?” It is my father, calling from the doorway. I have been scribbling in my notebook, drawing in the margins beside one of my stories where nothing is happening.

“Yeah?” I answer.

“You writing?”

“Yeah.” He comes in and sits on the bed. I realize he’s been crying because his eyes are swollen and red. It was worse before, the crying. Sometimes he would slip in and out of it casually, like you would laughter in a conversation. He’s been better since Christmas, the second Christmas without Nickie. But my favorite part of him is still missing, still buried.

“Your mom…your mom and me were talking. Remember that last trip we had on the sled? Couple years ago I guess? It was about this time of year wasn’t it.”

It isn’t a question meant for me to answer. “I was thinking maybe we could go out again. You and me. Before the melt. I know we didn’t get to go out last year, with everything…” He pauses and swallows hard. “… with everything that was going on. We haven’t been out since…you know, since then. Since that last time. I thought maybe you’d like to go again. You and me.”

I tell him yes. Yes I want to go, I want to go tomorrow morning because it’s a Saturday. He smiles at me and says sure. And I think I see it, the missing part, faint and small, a spark flashing in an abyss, but I see it. His smile is real, not just a costume put on for me.

He gets up and hugs me into his side and for the first time since Nickie died I notice my father’s smell, not his cologne or shampoo, just his scent, the way every girl knows her father’s scent. “You’ve been so strong for us Cassie… your mom and me. You’ll never know.”

I nod in silence, standing on the reticence that has been my only solid ground since Nickie left. I don’t mind him thinking I am strong. I don’t want him to know my dead brother is just a concept, something I knew had existed but didn’t believe in, the opposite of Santa Claus, or God. He squeezes my shoulder and leaves the room without any more words. I think about the snowmobile, the last time Nickie and I

went. I think about all the last things Nickie and I did together. And it makes me think of what else Nickie and I would’ve done since he died.

I begin writing and it’s unlike anything I’ve written before, because it’s about what Nickie didn’t do. I write about the girl he would’ve married, I write about whether he would pass his driver’s test on the first try, about what sports he would’ve been good at. I don’t know if it helps me or if it’s what I’m supposed to be doing. But it feels good to me, because it’s different. I finally stop, and get into bed. * * * * * * * * * * * When I wake my pillow is wet. I’ve been crying. My hair is clinging to my face in a

heaving slightly. We stood dumbly amongst the trees, surely as a group of weary, superstitious, and confused loggers must have done decades before us, and we shifted on our heels trying to make sense of the three, body-sized mounds that were laid in a tiny clearing within the island.

“Penobscot, I bet. Or maybe some Maliseet.

Probably on their way to Nova Scotia.”

“Are there people buried in there Daddy?” Nickie asked, not quite scared, not quite excited.

“I think there are Indians buried in there, Nick. Three of ‘em it looks like.” I scanned the mounds and my eyes landed on the grave furthest away. It was much smaller than the rest. I somehow knew in my heart that this had been a young boy who had died. I had no proof; I simply knew. I fought every urge to peel away the earth and see him. If Dad had turned for only a second I might’ve done it. But he didn’t look away; his gaze was trained on the mound, because Nickie was walking towards it.

“Nick, you don’t get too close to that now. That’s why these trees are still standing, this is a burial ground or something. Those loggers knew not to mess with it.” But Nickie did get close, almost right up to it. When he stood before the mound I realized how small it really was.

Maybe it covered a child only his size. A large branch had fallen across the grave, where it now balanced steadily, half rotted away.

Nickie bent, reaching for it.

“Nickie! I said do not touch that, now-” My father seemed caught between genuine concern and simple wonder as he watched his son clumsily slide the branch off the small mound. Nickie set it delicately next to the grave, and then stood over it a moment, admiring his work.

“Alright now Come on back over here with your sister and me.”

He begrudgingly slinked his way towards us.

A branch caught his hat in its icy talons, plucking it off his head. Nickie quickly reeled and pulled it from the muddled cluster. He whipped off his mittens and began laboring with his chubby fingers to re-roll the rim of his flocculent cap. Against the frosted ground his eyes seemed to glow blue. Darker roots, the color his hair would’ve become in a few more

The oddity of the island was even more apparent up close: this ancient group of misfit trees that had somehow survived the fate of the forest around them.

1 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

tangled wet mass, pulling every direction. I don’t know if I am still crying, but I am shaking, trembling. For the first time since he died I remember Nickie. Truly remember him, and experience him. There was one memory I hadn’t found, but it found me. It found me in a dream.

I sit up in bed, leaning back on my hands.

My chest starts heaving, I can’t stop it. Fresh tears come. And I remember the island.

T

hese bushes are thick!” Nickie said, more playfully than angrily. I tugged him along; he was having trouble marching through the crusted snow.

“Well you should see it up here. The trees are even thicker-” I stopped mid-sentence and froze, for there was nothing else I could say or do when I saw it, the reason the loggers had left the trees here. * * * * * * * * * * * “Why did you stop?” Nickie asked, bumping into me. I didn’t answer, just waited for him to see. I saw his head swivel, taking it in.

“Oh…what’s that? Daddy!” Dad was right behind us anyway. He strode up beside Nickie and drove his hands into his hips.

“Well holy shit then,” he said, his chest

years, were hiding deep in his blonde serpentine curls. And then it happened, the part in my dream that woke me, the part that I would remember every day after I awoke from it.

T

he dream changes, its reality twisting and transforming. I begin to see through everything, the world translucent; the graves, their revealed bodies half-buried in dirt and rock, the last one a child, his bones fragile as glass, the three of them together, yet completely alone in their death. And I see Nickie, without his ringlets, without the piece of skull the doctor had removed; but the tumor is there. It’s black and swollen, pulsing in the small pocket of his inculpable brain.

And I realize the tumor has been there his entire life, part of him, always part of him. It was there while we ate cotton candy at the fair, it was there all those nights I let him into my bed after he’d had a nightmare. It was there when we found the island. I think of how often I had laid my hand on his forehead and almost touched it, this marker, this symbol burned into him, somehow both growing and dying, both still and dynamic, like an inexorable

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Nickie isn’t real to me now.

I wonder sometimes if he had really existed. The pictures everywhere tell me that he did, but I don’t believe them.

Robert Graves is an author and Grammy-nominated songwriter and producer. He resides in Kennebunk and Nashville, Tennessee.

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hourglass slowly expiring. And he is finally real to me, because I see him in his completeness, as he truly was. * * * * * * * * * * * I never go back to the island, never uncover the secrets buried in those mounds. But I often think of them, especially the smallest one, the one I know is a boy. I think of the Indians that had known him, that had loved him and played with him, that had continued on without him. I think about the lives they would have carried out there, lives that had been meant to include one more person, a child that would always exist within the island. n

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