BREW REVIEW

On a late fall visit to

Bun-

ker Brewing Co. in Portland’s Libbytown neighborhood, “All About at Bass” blared from a young couple’s car as they pulled into the parking lot. It seemed tting, since Bunker Brewing—maybe more than any other Portland brewery—is all about that beer.

Unlike breweries that offer an allinclusive experience of high-end food, mood lighting, good acoustics, and sleek design, Bunker reminds us of the early days of Portland’s craft-brewing scene, when beer was brewed in an industrial setting and the emphasis was on high-quality beer, not the amenities and ambience.

PROS & CONVICTS

BY PETE LYONS & JEFF LYONS

Doubling down on its industrial park vibe, Bunker is in a gutted re station at the end of an easily missed deadend road o a one-way street in the middle of nowhere (arguably worse than nowhere: Libbytown). Its street address is “Unit D,” and it’s closer to the county jail than to the next brewery on the Maine Beer Trail. Bunker Thrill So a few more lights would be nice, as would a bit of heat. Grab a sip in Libbytown! e garage-sale tables and benches, too-loud music, and cavernous interior make conversation a challenge on busy nights, and the lighting is mostly provided by Christmas lights.

But here’s the thing: the beer is great. Here’s a breakdown of some of the highlights:

Machine Pilz

(5.2% ABV), Bunker’s agship beer, is true to the style. Light and refreshing, yet avorful, and very drinkable. Barn Cat (4.8% ABV) is mild, smooth, and malty. Bunker calls it a Mild Ale, a description that ts the avor better than the name. Feral cats aren’t particularly mild to other living beings.

Salad Daze

(4.7% ABV) is a dry-hopped India Pale Lager. It’s smooth at the front with some bitter rounding, but leans more malty than bitter. Great when paired with a salad!

Out There

(5.7% ABV) is a wet-hopped American Lager. It’s light and refreshing, with a killer can depicting the Maine Atlas. Chick-A-Dee (4.3% ABV) is a classic English-style bitter, so not bitter at all. If you’re wondering what “nitro” means, think Guinness texture. Replacing some of the carbon dioxide with nitrogen adds long-lasting foam and a silky mouthfeel. You could drink this for a whole cricket match. Terrarium IPA (6% ABV) is Bunker’s mandatory hazy IPA. It’s well-balanced for the style, which by de nition leans toward hoppy and bitter.

Bunker’s proximity to the Fore River walking and biking path is another plus. Before you settle in for a session, exit the