Portland Monthly Magazine Winterguide 2016

A r t i s t r At t l e s t h e C i t y | F i C t i o n : A W P W i n n e r j o A n C o n n o r

Maine’s City Magazine

House Hunter’s

Tour •

Lindbergh Retreat •

$11M Stunner • Fassett •

winterguide 2016 Vol. 30 no. 10 $5.95

w w w. p o r t l a n d m a g a z i n e . c o m

[

Jewel

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2016 ]

an Epicur EpicurE’s calEndar & a Chan ChanCe for romanCe

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Winterguide 2016 | Vol. 30, no. 10

39 Cover photo by irvin serrano. this page From LeFt: sarah morriLL; Courtesy sugarLoaF; shutterstoCk

Food&drink 39 An Epicurean’s Guide to Planet Maine Our New Year brings fresh food trends, new stars, and new restaurants to dream about.

By Claire Z. Cramer

84 dining Guide 85 Restaurant Review

Roustabout shakes up East Bayside.

PERsPEctivEs 8 From the Editor 10 Letters 82 L’Esprit de l’Escalier

“Voilà”

By Rhea Côté Robbin

16 Shelter&dEsiGn Homes For the High Flyers This Househunters’ special opens with a dazzling portfolio of glamour real-estate listings, including the North Haven Island retreat of Charles and Anne Morrow Lindbergh.

54 Flying Home Fly like the Lone Eagle–if you dare. $4.3M. 62 Risk Mgmt.

Islesboro Xanadu at auction.

Estimate: $10.5 M. 66 the Butterfly HunterRangeley Lake getaway, $1.15M.

By Colin W. Sargent

71 so Low

Why not pick up a tiny

miracle? These cottages with million-dollar views all have price tags under $200K. From Staff & Wire Reports

87 House of the Month Urban fantasy: The Francis Fassett high Victorian digs at the end of Pine Street in Portland’s West End.

By Colin W. Sargent 88 new England Homes & Living MAinE LiFE 13 Maine classics 15 Winterguide 20 Experience 27 chowder

31 Art&styLE 29 Portland After dark: sweetheart deals Sensual valentine stays for a sexy Valentine’s Day.

By Karen Hofreiter

77 Artist at Work: Urbane Rattle The three worlds of Charlie Hewitt.

Story and photos by Diane Hudson 93 Fiction “Island Universe”

By Joan Connor PERsonALitiEs 96 Flash

Cover: A tempting bowl of Soto Ayam at tempo dulu in Portland’s danforth inn, by irvin Serrano.

Winterguide 2016 7

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Men & Gentlemen

B

Fore Street Shadows, oil on canvas Monhegan14x11 Morning Paul Black

by Madeleine Hopkins 11 x 14 oil

Featuring original works ofart, fine art, Featuring original works of fine photographyand and limited-edition photography limited-edition prints by regional and local artists. prints by regional and local artists.

372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 372 Fore Street (207) 874-8084 Portland, Maine 04101 www.forestreetgallery.com

(207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com

Wher e Recyclin g has Always bee n in Style

Forget Me Nots

Now located at The Shops at Falmouth Village, 240 U.S. Route One

Now acceptin g season al cloth in g and accessor ies 781-8252 U.S. Route One Falmouth, Maine

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forgetmenotsfalmouth.com 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

etween flights recently at Newark Airport, I discovered the rest rooms were under repair and was directed down a flight of stairs to a makeshift convenience trailer near a gate. When I faced two doors, one marked “Men” and the other marked “Gentlemen,” I came to a full halt. George Bernard Shaw gave us Man and Superman. Only New Jersey could give us “Men and Gentlemen.”

This was an existential decision. I’d read that the late George Plimpton, editor of The Paris Review, was “the last gentleman,” but I didn’t consider that definitive. I am totally onboard with the mandate that abandoning rigid sexual roles is essential, and that everyone has the right to gender self-identification. But this was something new. Or very, very old. As I mulled this over, five or six guys paused, then strode into the “Men’s Room.” Did they pass “Gentlemen” by because it had been rendered irrelevant somehow, or even poisonous? Did they think gentlemen were like the milquetoast Daniel DayLewis character in A Room With A View? “Gentlemen” have done some starkly ungentlemanly things, not only in Western Civilization but from the beginning of time. It was ‘gentlemen’ who sullied the notion of a Gentleman’s Agreement. The one gentleman in the movie who refuses to fall into line was played by Gregory Peck. Who doesn’t want to be Gregory Peck, who crafted his own definition of the term? But this was more a case of personal values. If it’s in vogue just now not to be a gentleman, did I want to be a part of that? I wondered further, if we have no gentlemen, can there be no ladies?

I admit, practical reality prodded me toward making a direct decision. I thought, do I like a world where family planning clinics are bombed (not by gentlemen) and women are called bitches (not by gentlemen)? On the other hand, did I want to throw my lot in with a bunch of kooks who’d done their best to ruin the world with perfect creases in their pants? You don’t have to wear worsted wool slacks in favor of blue jeans. Clothes don’t necessarily make the gentleman. It’s not who we believe we are, necessarily, but what we want to strive for that shapes us.

As we head into a new year, we have to hope for a better world instead of settling for ways to celebrate degradation. We should never confuse strength with rudeness or even boorishness, and we shouldn’t confuse kindness with weakness. With Portland Magazine, I want our stories to be piercingly clear and beautiful, afraid of nothing, and graceful. Our readers deserve the highest ethics in journalism, and everywhere else. The decision of who I wanted to be was getting easier for me.

Ladies and gentlemen, I think you know which door I chose. I just hope many more of my decisions in 2016 are this positive. I’ll have the quiche, please.

Portland Maine’s City Magazine

165 State Street, Portland, maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 e-mail: staff@portlandmonthly.com www.portlandmagazine.com Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & ProduCtion nancy Sargent art director Jesse Stenbak associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice design director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com AdvErtiSing nicole Barna advertising director nicole@portlandmonthly.com ryan Hammond advertising executive ryan@portlandmonthly.com abby polkinghorn advertising executive abby@portlandmonthly.com anna J. nelson advertising executive anna@portlandmonthly.com

Old POrt SPecialty tile cO 59 Middle Street Portland, Me 04101 207.775.2238 • 888.403.0816

oldporttile.com

EditoriAl Claire Z. Cramer assistant editor & Publisher claire@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & archives Jason Hjort Webmaster diane Hudson Flash · reviews Jeanee dudley experience ACCounting Eric S. taylor Controller eric@portlandmonthly.com intErn Molly Parent SubSCriPtionS to subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

readers & advertisers

the opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. no establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews.

Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric taylor. newsstand Cover date: Winterguide 2016, published in december 2015, vol. 30, no. 10, copyright 2015. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (iSSn: 1073-1857). opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment.

What kind of school has teachers who make sure no one is invisible?

Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, october, november, and december. We are proudly printed in the uSA by Cummings Printing.

At Waynflete, we know students learn best in classrooms where they are known. This kind of environment makes it easier for kids to be brave and participate. Students who learn to think and speak for themselves are more likely to become independent, self-reliant thinkers and learners.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 59 American graphic design Awards presented by graphic design uSA for excellence in publication design.

Learn more about our approach at waynflete.org/learntolearn.

S a r g e n t

Publishing, inc.

Winterguide 2016 9

lEttErs editor@portlandmonthly.com

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azine Maine’s City Mag

New Year,

New You

015 december 2

Fin.-Fit: Money Makeover Brain Fit: Good reads Phys. Fit:

o. 9 Volume 30, N

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Vol. 30 no. 9 $5.95

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Throw The perfecT

rT y parT

dEliCiouS SliCE of proSE Thank you for writing such an informative article! [See “Party, Party,” December 2015.]

I loved reading about all the folks I know.

Glad you mentioned the soup at Union–it was a good part of the piece.

Evalin Stearns, Portland andrEW McCartHy Enjoyed the piece [“An Open Invitation,” October, 2015]. Life is too short. Make amends. Hope he comes back to Maine.

–Mike Violette (via Facebook) Sad that [McCarthy] never got to know [his father]. –Mitchell Bourget (via Facebook) Always had a crush on him back in the day.

Glad to know he would come back to Maine!

–Dana Wigton (via Facebook)

Love the movie pictured here! –Florence Andrews WHErE’S tHE Button Girl?

I enjoyed reading “That’s A Wrap” [Summerguide 2015]. I’m a big fan of Charles Shaughnessy. I wonder if you know when The Button Girl will be on aired at PBS? I would like to ask my friend [in the U.S.] to get the DVD or record the show on TV. Reiko Ibano, Osaka, Japan Visit buttonsthemovie.com for updates. At press time, Buttons plans to premiere in February on PBS. –Ed.

Count uS in!

I noted Evergreen Credit Union was not included in December’s special “Money Makeover” section on Banks and Credit Unions…

We are one of the largest CUs in Maine, serving all Cumberland County for over 60 years, with branches in Naples, Portland, South Portland, and Windham.

Howard B. Lowell, Evergreen C.U., Portland KandinSKy, KlEE & MorE I did not know that [Albert Otten’s Impressionist and Modernist art collection was shipped out of Germany just ahead of the Nazis’ confiscation–see “Art on Ice,” November 2015] !

Doreen Morgan, Portland Fascinating!

Angela Todd Laurie, Fort Fairfield Grand HotElS, nortH & SoutH Great Colony story in Portland Magazine’s December issue [see “A Tale of 2 Colonies”]!

I would love to put a framed copy of the article in the lobby (in both Florida and Maine).

Can I get a digital copy of the cover and the article that I can have printed and framed?

John E. Martin, General Manager, Colony Hotel, Kennebunkport

Shannon P. McGuigan

HErE’S looKinG at you My daughter is on the front cover of [the November 2015] issue, facing the camera.

She was quite thrilled, by the way.

Laurie Nappi, Portland CORRECTION: Artist Wendy Kindred (of Parkside Studios, in Portland, a block south of Deering Oaks Park) was a Professor of Art at the University of Maine at Fort Kent and is now a Professor Emeritus. She spent three years at the University of Chicago between 1957 and 1963.

Winterguide 2016 11

MaineClassics

Sea Change

Half spaceship, half Confederate ironclad, the $4.3-billion USS Elmo Zumwalt slipped into Portland Harbor for a cameo appearance during sea trials. Forty miles off Portland, a call for help was broadcast from Capt. Dale Sparrow’s 45-foot fishing boat Danny Boy, and, ahead of the Coast Guard cutters, who showed up to help, but the Navy’s newest stealth destroyer? Where ironclads were designed with angles to deflect bullets and cannon fire, the Zumwalt keeps invisible by deflecting radar return in the electromagnetic spectrum.

Mad Facts: Beyond

“i’ve been recycling steel in my work for 32 years,” says new gloucester sculptor Pat Plourde. “then it clicked about 7 years ago: i could fashion old shovels into pine cones. At first i used just spades, but i found that using square shovel heads gave my sculptures a more natural, organic feel. i have some scrapper friends who supply the shovels, mostly vintage. i use the wooden handles in other pieces, mostly furniture. “the short fat ones on ‘twig’ bases consist of 80 to 90 shovels and weigh in at 250 lbs. the tall ones use the same number of shovels and either sit on a stand or hang between trees or from steel arches. i finish them with an oil that darkens the color and helps even out the oxidation that’s going to occur. Because ‘rust never sleeps’!”

Cost is $3,600 per cone. “A cone i’m shipping to Montana costs $658 for shipping and $300 for the crate. i’ve sold a dozen or so, and they’re in Maine, Wyoming, north Carolina, upstate new York, Quebec, and other places i’ve forgotten about.”

from top: Dave Cleavelan D - maineimagaing.Com; Courtesy Krystina poray goDDu; pat plourDe; hemmings Daily

Thundercones

Channeling

Millay

A Girl Called Vincent by Krystina Poray goddu (Chicago review Press, April 2016, $18.99) is a succinct (208 pages), compelling biography of poet Edna St. Vincent Millay (1892-1950) intended for middle-grade readers but appealing to anyone who has ever fallen under the spell of the rebellious bohemian whose “candle burns at both ends.” Augmented with photographs and poems, the book traces Millay’s dazzling arc from her rural, impoverished midcoast Maine girlhood, where her creativity and intellect first flourished, to Pulitzer Prize-winning poet and celebrity via greenwich Village and Paris.

“She has been my idol since i first discovered her work around the age of 12,” says goddu. Her poetry sustained me through romantic break-ups–’you all have lied who told me Time would ease me of my pain’–and put words to my youthful wanderlust.”

Kool At Any SPeed

Seventy-two Chevy Corvairs live in Maine. Ralph Nader may have condemned the compact as Unsafe at Any Speed, but, according to the Washington Post, “The centerpiece of [Nader’s new American Museum of Tort Law in Winsted, CT], its Venus de Milo, is a pristine 1963 Corvair… truly a thing of beauty. Even Nader concedes, ‘It’s one of the prettiest cars ever designed.’”

Winterguide 2016 13

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1,380’ of Vertical 1,380’ of Vertical 30 Trails & Glades 46 30 Trails & Glades 46 Terrain Park Terrain Park Tubing Tubing Après Ski at the Last Run Après SkiPub at the Last Run Pub

MAINE’S 4TH TALLEST PEAK MAINE’S 4TH TALLEST PEAK SkiBlackMountain.com

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events guide

benefit Shriners Hospital in Boston. ifpwg.com

FREE

Lobster Dip, Old Orchard Beach, Jan. 1. Swimmers’ annual plunge to benefit Maine Special Olympics. trueoob.com

Rangeley Snodeo 2016, rangeley, Jan. 21-23 Casino night, radar run, live auctions, snowmobile parade, fireworks, and more. 864-5364, rangeleysnowmobile.com

Sledding, snowshoeing, ice skating, hot chocolate, healthy snacks, prizes.

647-3472, winterkids.orgl Mushers Bowl, Bridgton, Jan. 23-24. Sled dog races, skijoring. 647-3472, desdc.org/mushers-bowl/

SEaSon PaSS

Polar Plunge, gooch’s Beach, Kennebunk, Jan. 1. Annual swim to benefit Caring unlimited. kennebunkportmaine.com

From top: sugarloaF; aubuchon connery; leslie marquis

for Grade 2 and under!

The Maine Event: Battle on Ice, Androscoggin Bank Colisée, Lewiston, Jan. 15-17. the international Fire, Police & Military Winter games Committee’s annual hockey tournament. Proceeds

B-52 Commemorative Snowmobile Ride, greenville, Jan. 23. ride to the wreckage site of the B-52 that crashed into elephant Mountain in 1963. Spaghetti luncheon at noon. mooseheadriders.com WinterKids Welcome to Winter Festival, Payson Park, Portland, Jan. 23.

{ Mush! }

Can-Am Crown sled dog races begin March 5 in Fort Kent. At right: Musher Don Hibbs has been SkiB lackMountain.com named the race marshall for the 2016 CAC 250.

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Portland Polar Dip, east end Beach, Jan. 30.

“Freezin’ for a reason” to benefit Camp Sunshine. freezinforareason.com Camden WinterFest 2015, Camden, Jan. 30-Feb. 7. Call it “Maine’s Mardi gras.” Community ice carving, and snow sculpting, ski, and snowboard competitions,

bonfire, live music and dance, concerts, CamJam, and fireworks. WinterFest concludes with the toboggan nationals. 236-3440, camden.lib.me.us/news.

Maine Winter Special Olympics, Sugarloaf, Jan. 31-Feb. 2. now in its 47th year, Sugarloaf hosts the athletes and families, csugarloaf.com 25th Annual U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden, Feb. 5-7. Over 400 teams from across the country compete in this huge event. the toboggan chute is open to the public. 236-3438, camdensnowbowl.com

races promoting education, safety, animal welfare and good sportsmanship.

100milewildernessrace.org Moosehead Lake Region Snofest, greenville. Annual ice Fishing Derby, Jan. 3031; Plum Creek Wilderness

Snowmobile feats are only part of the action at the annual Snodeo in Rangeley, held this year January 21 to 23.

1,380’ of Vertical

30 Trails & Glades 46

Auburn Winter FestiTerrain Park val, Auburn, Jan. 29-31. events include sledding, Sled Dog race, Feb. 6; Tubing snowmobile rides, skiing, Annual Chocolate Festival, snowboarding, skating, Feb. 14; Chili/Chowder Après Ski at the ice sculptures, music, and Cookoff, Feb. 12. 695-2702, torchlight parade. 333- PEAK MAINE’Sa 4TH TALLEST Last Run Pub mooseheadlake.org 6601, auburnmaine.gov The Great Maine OutPlum Creek 100 Mile door Weekend, multiple Wilderness Sled Dog race, 39 Glover Road | R u m f o r d , M a i nlocations, e |Feb. 12-14.

(207) 364-8977 Feb. 6. Starts at Leisure Life events all over the state resort, greenville. 100-mile celebrate Maine’s natural and 30-mile sled dog resources with outdoor WinterguiDe 2016 15

Winterguide

activities. greatmaineoutdoorweekend.com Greater Bridgton Lakes Region Winter Carnival, multiple locations, Feb. 13-14. Kids’ snow sculpture, horse-drawn carriage rides, sled dog rides, skating, carnival games, and other outdoor activities. mainelakeswintercarnival.com Old Orchard Beach Winter Carnival, Old Orchard Beach, Feb. 18-20. Activities include sleigh rides, sledding down Old Orchard Street, the infamous slippery slope pub crawl, kids’ games, music, and a human dog sled race. 2812114, oob365.com New England Ski Day at Shawnee Peak, Bridgton, Feb. 5, Mar. 4. Show your new england driver’s license and ski all Friday til 10 pm for $29. 647-8444, shawneepeak.com

{ ski x-country }

sunshine, the Slush Cup, and live music, with views of Mt. Washington in the distance. 647-8444, shawneepeak.com Maine Adaptive Sports and Ski-A-Thon, Mar. 19.

Huge fund-raiser and fun for participants, volunteers, and supporters. sundayriver.com.

ski guide Around GreAter PortlAnd: riverside golf Course, Portland; Pineland Farms, new gloucester; Smiling Hll Farms, Westbrook; Harris Farm, Biddeford; Libby Hill trails, gray.

Tip: If you’re new to cross-country, check out LLBean’s Outdoor Discovery School for lessons with equipment provided.

23rd Annual Can-Am Crown International Sled Dog Races, Fort Kent, Mar. 4-8. the famous 250-mile race, a qualifier for the iditarod and the yukon Quest with a $29,000 purse; also

1 6 P O R T L A N D M O n t H Ly M A g A z i n e

30-mi. and 60-mi. races; mushers and spectators from all over the world. can-am-crown.net Spring Fling at Shawnee Peak, Bridgton, Mar. 19. it’s an annual rite of spring:

Baker Mountain Ski Area, Moscow. 460' vertical drop, 5 trails, t-bar lift, night skiing, ski school. non-profit and volunteer-run.

612-9200, skimaine.com Bethel Inn Ski Touring Center, Bethel. Over 20 miles of trails for novice through advanced skiers.

Snowshoe trails, rentals, lessons, ice-skating, and sleigh rides. 15 minutes from Sunday river.

824-6276, bethelinn.com Bigrock Mountain, Mars

Hill. A 980' vertical drop, 35 trails, three chair lifts, handle tow, downhill and cross-country skiing, 65-percent snowmaking, night skiing, daily Snowschool lessons, 800' snow-tube park, expanded terrain park. 425-6711, bigrockmaine.com Birches Ski Touring Center, rockwood. 11,000 acres of wildlands, 25 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, 30 miles of ungroomed trails. Snowshoeing, snowmobile trails, ice fishing, scenic plane rides, guided winter tours, and three yurts along trails for overnight stays. 800-8259453, birches.com Black Mountain, rumford. A 1,380' vertical drop, 35 trails, two chair lifts, t-bar lift, two handle tows, $15-$25 lift tickets, night skiing, cross-country skiing, 90 percent snow-making, tubing park, and 300'

Parrothead Festival at Sunday River, April 1-3.

Outdoor concerts, parties, margaritas, pondskimming contest.

APPAREL

cubbies --------------mittens that won't come off your little ones...until you unzip them

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From leFt: llbean; sunday river

half-pipe. 364-8977, skiblackmountain.org Camden Snow Bowl, Camden. An 850' vertical drop, 12 trails and glades, chairlift, two t-bars lifts, handle tow lift, 45-percent snowmaking, snow tubing, ice skating, full rental shop, 400' toboggan chute, 4k nordic trail, snowshoe, night skiing, ski and snowboard school, two terrain parks with over 30 elements. 236-3438, camdensnowbowl.com Carter’s X-C Ski Centers and Shop, Oxford & Bethel. 25 miles of trails in Oxford; 35 miles of trails in Bethel. Beginner to advanced trails.

Snowshoeing, trail-side lodging, snack bar, warming huts. Beautiful views of mountain ranges and rivers. 539-4848 (Oxford); 824-3880 (Bethel); cartersxcski.com

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Bridal Shop & Tailor 85 Main Street Yarmouth (207) 846-5844 www.svetlanadesign.com W i n t e r g u i D e 2016 17

Winterguide Five Fields Farm, Bridgton. With 16 miles of trails for all skill levels, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing, warming hut, ski and snowshoe rentals, and ungroomed trails to the summit of Bald Pate Mountain. Dog-friendly, too. 6472425, fivefieldsski.com Fort Kent Mountain Outdoor Center, Fort Kent. Over 25 miles of cross-country trails for all skill levels, lodging, night skiing, biathlon facilities, and snowshoe trails. 8346203, 10thmtskiclub.org.

Harris Farm X-C Ski Center, Dayton. With 25 miles of trails (18 miles groomed) for all skill levels, snowshoeing and sledding for non-skiers, warming hut, snackbar (weekends only). Dogs allowed on weekdays. Winter Kids passbook accepted, group discounts offered. 4992678, harrisfarm.com Hidden Valley Nature Center, Jefferson. Over 20 miles of lightly groomed

trails, snowshoeing, rentals, warming huts, and overnight yurt rentals. Kids’ cross-country clinics on Saturdays, Jan. 3-Feb. 7.

200-8840, hvnc.org Hermon Mountain, Hermon. A 350-ft. vertical drop, 20 trails for all skill levels, 100-percent snowmaking, ski and snowboard lessons, double chair, t-bar, handle tow, night skiing, snack bar, tubing park, terrain park. 848-5192, skihermonmountain.com Katahdin Nordic Center, Millinocket. A half-mile from downtown Millinocket and 17 miles from the entrance to Baxter State Park. 6 miles of groomed trails. Ski and snowshoe rentals available. 723-6305, visitmaine.com.

Libby Hill Forest Trails, gray. eight miles of ski and snowshoe trails. Dogfriendly (narrow trails only).

657-2114, libbyhill.org Lonesome Pine Trails, Fort Kent. Maine’s nothern-

most ski resort. Downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. A 500-ft. vertical drop, 13 trails, night skiing, 60-percent snow-making, alpine and nordic skiing on the Canadian border, grinding rail, and half-pipe.

834-5202, lonesomepines.org Lost Valley, Auburn. A 243-ft. vertical drop, 15 trails, two double chair lifts, night skiing, cross-country skiing, terrain park for skiers and riders, 100-percent snowmaking, PSiA-certified Ski School. 784-1561, lostvalleyski.com Maine Adaptive Sports and Recreation, newry.

Free winter recreation for children and adults with physical disabilities at four of Maine’s finest ski resorts: alpine skiing and snowboarding at Sunday river, Sugarloaf, and Saddleback; nordic skiing and snowshoeing at Sunday river inn and Cross-Country Ski Center

and Pineland Farms.

Summer programs also available. (800)-639-7770, maineadaptive.org Millinocket Municipal X-C Ski Areas, Millinocket. 20 miles of groomed trails offering views of Mt. Katahdin. the northern timber Cruisers Clubhouse offers cross-country ski trails with loops up to nine miles and a warming hut.

723-4329, northerntimbercruisers.com Mt. Abram, greenwood.

An 1,150-ft. drop, 51 trails and glades. two double and one t-bar, surface and carpet lift, 85-percent snowmaking, 550 acres, three terrain parks, tubing, and weekend community racing. Winterkids pass accepted. 875-5000, mtabram.com Mt. Jefferson, Lee. A 432-ft. vertical drop, 12 trails, two t-bar lifts, handle tow, ski lessons, rentals, snackbar, views of Mt. Katahdin. 738-2377,

skimtjefferson.com Nordic Heritage Center, Presque isle. With12 miles of cross-country trails, 1.5 miles of lighted trails, night skiing, warming hut, paved roller ski loop, terrain park, lodge with sauna, and wax building. trails free of charge. 762-6972, nordicheritagecenter.org Oxford Plains Snow Tubing, Oxford. Maine’s oldest tubing hill. t-bar lift, 100-percent snowmaking, four lanes, snackbar. 5392454, oxfordplains.com Pineland Farms, new gloucester. With 10 miles of nordic skiing trails, ice skating, sledding, snowshoeing, and dryland nordic ski training in summer and fall. 688-6599, pinelandfarms.org Powderhouse Hill, South Berwick. A 150-ft. drop, three trails, one rope tow, night skiing.

384-5858, www.powderhousehill.com Quaggy Jo Ski Center,

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1 8 P O R T L A N D M O n t H Ly M A g A z i n e

Presque isle. A 215-ft. drop, t-bar, five trails, natural half-pipe with grind rails, first-time skier area, and nordic and biathlon center. 764-3248, www.skiquaggyjo.org Rangeley Lakes Trails Center, rangeley. 20 miles of trails for cross-country skiing and showshoeing; rentals, food, and beverages at the lodge. 864-4309, xcskirangeley.com

portland pirates

Saddleback, rangeley.

Scheduled to reopen at the end of January. A 2,000-ft. drop, 66 trails and glades. two quad, two double, and one t-bar lift; 85-percent snowmaking, lodge, three terrain parks.

At Casablanca glades: 44 acres of ungroomed tree skiing with chutes, steeps, and tight lines. 864-5671, saddlebackmaine.com Seacoast Snow Park, Windham. A100-ft. drop, carpet lift, 12 lanes of tubing, 100-percent snowmaking, night tubing, zip line, fire pit

and snack bar. 892-5952, seacoastadventure.com Shawnee Peak, Bridgton.

A 1,300-ft. vertical drop, 46 trails and glades. One quad, three triple, and one surface lift. night skiing, 98-percent snowmaking, two terrain parks, and views of Mt. Washington. 6478444, shawneepeak.com Smiling Hill Farm, Westbrook. Cross-country skiing on 15 miles of trails; snowshoeing, rentals, hot beverages, and snacks.

775-4818, smilinghill.com Spruce Mountain, Jay. A 300-ft. vertical drop, 11 trails, night skiing, 3 rope tows, cross-country skiing, 50-percent snowmaking, nordic trails, and ski classes for all ages. 897-4090, sprucemountain.org Sugarloaf, Carrabassett Valley. A 2,820-ft. vertical drop, 161 trails and glades. Five quad (two high-speed), six double, two surface, and one triple lift, with 95-percent snowmak-

Catch a Pirates game! portlandpirates.com, tickets: $15-$25

ing, superpipe, three terrain parks, tubing park, cross-country skiing, zip lines, gym, and anti-gravity complex with skate park and trampolines. 237-2000, sugarloaf.com Sunday River, Bethel.

A 2,340-ft. vertical drop, 135 trails and glades. One high-speed

chondola, nine quads (four high-speed); three triple, one double, and one surface lift. With 95-percent snowmaking, night skiing, ice skating, lodges, five terrain parks, superpipe, and mini-pipe. 824-3000, sundayriver.com Titcomb Mountain, West Farmington. A 340-

ft. drop, 16 alpine trails, two t-bar lifts and one handle tow, night skiing, 70-percent snowmaking, terrain park, and 10 miles of groomed crosscountry trails. 778-9031, titcombmountain.com We are grateful to Ski Maine for assisting with information. Visit skimaine. com for updates.

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800.647.0035 W i n t e r g u i D e 2016 19

experience

-Feb. 21; Lost Boy Found in Whole Foods, Mar. 1-20.

774-0645 portlandstage.org Public Theatre, 31 Maple St., Lewiston. The Ladies Foursome, Jan. 22-31; What Rhymes with America, Mar. 11-20. 782-3200 thepublictheatre.org Schoolhouse Arts Center, rte. 114, Sebago Lake Village. Brighton Beach Memoirs, Apr. 642-3743 schoolhousearts.org

galleries

theater Belfast Maskers/Cold Comfort Theater, see website for locations. See website for upcoming season. 930-7244 coldcomforttheater.com Children’s Museum & Theater of Maine, 142 Free St., Portland. Stage stories, daily; You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown,

Theater, 348 u.S. rte.

1, Falmouth. Tap, Tap, Jazz, Jan. 22-23; Sleeping Beauty, Apr. 1-17. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. trinity irish Dance Company, Jan. 29; Romeo and Juliet, Jan. 31; TAO: Seventeen Samurai, Feb. 2; Bill t.

Jones/Arnie zane Dance Company, Feb. 24; Disney’s

Ice Bar at the Portland Regency Hotel, January 21-23, $25-$40

February. 828-1234 kitetails.org City Theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. Next to Normal, March 11-20.

282-0849 citytheater.org Good Theater at St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St., Portland. Shear Madness: Portland’s Hilarious Whodunit, Jan. 27-Mar. 20.

885-5883 goodtheater.com Maine State Ballet

Beauty and the Beast, Feb. 26-27; Salzburg Marionette theatre: The Sound of Music, March 2. 842-0800 porttix.com Portland Ballet, at Westbrook Performing Arts Center. See website for upcoming performances. 772-9671 portlandballet.org Portland Stage, 25 Forest Ave. The Hound of the Baskervilles, Jan. 26

2 0 P O R T L A N D M O n t H Ly M A g A z i n e

Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. imbued with Hues: Maine Historical Society Photographs Colored by Artist Patty Allison, thru Feb. 27; See website for coming exhibitions. 774-1822 mainehistory.org Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland.

Jon edwards: Photography,

crossarenaportland.com Dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with travis James Humphrey & guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week.

See website for more listings. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. the Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun; Clash of the titans, every Wed. See website for

Art Gallery at UNE, 716 Stevens Ave., Portland.

Portraits of the Artist, thru Feb. 7. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 russell St., Lewiston.

Maine Collected, the View Out the Window (and in his mind’s eye), thru Mar.; the Art of Occupy: the Occuprint Portfolio, thru Mar. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath rd., Brunswick. gilbert Stuart: From Boston to Brunswick, through Jan. 3; earth Matters: Land as Material and Metaphor in the Arts in Africa, through Mar. 6; to Count Art an intimate Friend: Highlights from the Bowdoin Collections 1794 to Present, through June 5; elise Ansel: Studies in Beauty, Jan. 15 -Apr. 24; Picturing Dissent in the 1960s: the Photography of Ken thompson, Jan. 26Apr. 3. 725-3275 bowdoin. edu/art-museum Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Alex Katz: A Singular Vision, thru May; Alec Sloth: Summer nights at the Dollar tree, Feb. 2-Jun. 5. 859-5600 colby.edu Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., rockland.

Andrew Wyeth: Fall and Winter exhibition, thru Apr. 17; Maine Collects: treasures from Maine’s Private Collections, thru Mar. 6; Picturing Maine, through Mar. 27. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org

Brace yourself for the Robot Zoo exhibit coming to the Portland Science Center, Jan. 29. it’s gonna be BIG..

thru Mar. 6. mainejewishmuseum.org

more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland.

Me, Mona and Mao, thru Feb. 21; Masterworks on Paper: Highlights from the Portland Museum of Art, opens Jan. 21; Duncan Hewitt: turning Strange, opens Jan. 21. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

Portland House of Music, 57 temple St., Portland. trVP nite, every Sun.; Funky Mondays, every Mon; Wednesday Happy Hour, Afro Beat Music night, every Weds. See website for more listings.

805-0134. portlandhouseofmusic.com

Music

Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Crystal Bowersox, Apr. 2; Judy Collins, Apr. 10. 646-4526

Asylum, 121 Center St., Portland. rap and Karaoke, every Wed.; retro night, every thur.; Plague, every F.; trivium, Jan. 14; O-town, Jan. 16; Marianas trench, Jan. 30; Chippendales’ Break the rules, Feb. 18; the Wailers, Feb. 19; rival Sons, Feb. 24; glenn Hughes, Mar. 12. portlandasylum.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, every tues.; irish Music night, every Wed.; See website for more listings. 774-4111. portcityblue.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center Street, Portland.

Chicago, Feb. 4. 775-3458

DakhaBrakha, the self-described “ethno-chaos” Ukrainian folk quartet, comes to Merrill Auditorium on Feb. 6.

From top: portland ovations; science center; meaghan maurice; portland ovations

TAO: Seventeen Samurai at Merrill Auditorium, Feb. 2 7pm.

First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Feb. 5; Mar. 4. firstfridayartwalk.com

It’s

LOCALS’ SEASON at DiMillo’s!

Wonderful winter dishes • Kids’ menu • Fabulous Happy Hour • Gift certificates awarded every week FREE parking while you’re aboard, PLUS ONE EXTRA HOUR, FREE!

It’s your turn to enjoy everything DiMillo’s has to offer during LOCALS’ SEASON! It’s our favorite time of year, made just for you!

• Try fabulous new dishes by our Head Chef, Melissa Bouchard, one of Maine’s Chefs of the Year.

• Enjoy Happy Hour from 4pm to 7pm, Monday through Friday in our cozy Port Side Lounge with fireplace, Portland’s getaway for grown ups.

• We have wonderful winter meals just for the kids, and we serve gluten-free meals every day.

• When you’re ready to leave, we’ll stamp your parking ticket with another hour of FREE parking so you can check out the fabulous shops and boutiques in the Old Port!

LOCALS’ SEASON is from 11am to 9pm, every day, all winter long!

Free parking while on board!

PLUS, one extra hour after you leave!

In the Old Port • Portland, Maine 772-2216 • www.dimillos.com Full Marina Services: 773-7632

experience Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Joe Bonamassa, Jan. 16; Beethoven’s eighth & Strauss, Jan. 24, Jan. 26; DakhaBrakha, Feb. 6; Portland in Love, Feb. 13-14; Metropolis (silent film with Peter Krasinski, organist); rachmaninoff’s third, Mar. 13; true Blues and the Campbell Brothers, Mar. 25; Straight no Chaser, Mar. 31. 842-0800 porttix.com

WILCO Jan. 27 at the State Theatre

TINDERBOX, the ICA at MECA’s 2016 spring exhibition, combines visual art, information, and an “art punk” concert. Jan. 11-Mar. 5, meca.edu

One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland.

OC and the Offbeats with Clara Junken Band, Jan. 15; Matthew Stubbs and the Antiguas and Jesse Dee, Jan. 23; the Weather Station, Jan. 25; Chris Bathgate, Jan. 31; rayland Baxter, Feb. 5; noam Pikelny, Feb. 11; Cats under the Stars, Feb. 13; tribute to Bob Dylan and the Band, Feb. 19; Basia Bulat, Apr. 3; Penny and Sparrow, Apr. 24. 761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504

2 2 P O R T L A N D M O n t H Ly M A g A z i n e

Congress St., Portland.

Keys n Krates, Jan. 20; graveyard, Jan. 24; Black tiger Sex Machine, Feb. 3; Mighty Mystic, Feb. 5; Caspian, Feb. 12; BoomBox, Feb. 19; the Keller Williams Kwahtro, Feb. 25; Stephen Kellogg, Feb. 27; Jukebox the ghost, Mar. 18; Percy Hill, Mar. 25; ezra Furman, Mar. 30. 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland.

Lettuce, Jan. 21; Wilco, Jan. 27; Lotus, Feb. 2; umphrey’s Mcgee,

Feb. 4; Vance Joy, Feb. 10; Caspian, Feb. 12; Carnage, Feb. 14; r5, Feb. 26; Logic, Mar. 11; Lake Street Dive, Mar. 26.

956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way rd., Brownfield. Darlingside, Jan. 22; Don Campbell Band, Jan. 29; Paula Cole, Jan. 30; ghost of Paul revere, Feb. 6; Barn Burner with Jesse Dee, Feb. 19; Waltzing for Dreamers Free Music Series, Feb. 21; Mallett Brothers, Mar. 5; Wynonna & the Big noise, Mar. 6; Los Lobos, Mar. 8; “A Lotta Folk Music” with Christine Lavin, Don White and Vance gilbert, Mar. 18; rose Cousins and Carol noonan in Concert, Mar. 19. 935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com

tasty events Browne Trading Company, 262 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings, one or more Sat. every

month, 1-5 pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St., Portland.

Craft beer tastings every Fri. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center Street, Portland.

Portland on tap, two sessions of the country’s best craft beers, Jan. 30.

775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Flanagan Farm, 668 narragansett trail (rt. 202), Buxton. Benefit dinners prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland trust. 2016 kicks off the eight-dinner “Word Play: the Color Series.” Purple: thomas Pisha-Duffly of the Honey Paw and Justin Walker of earth, Jan. 31; red: Amanda Hallowell of nebo Lodge and David turin of the David’s empire, Feb. 27; yellow: Krista Kern Desjarlais of Bresca & the Honey Bee and the Purple House and Josh

From leFt: wilco; meca; america on tap

jonathansogunquit.com

rs ! a d d e em is or d it th e n new sh tio n ni en o y fi M 10% an n ve o sa % to r 15 o

Phoenix Studio

Restoration and Design of Fine Art Glass since 1976

Portland on Tap at the Cross insurance Arena January 30, 1pm-4pm & 4pm-9pm, Sample over 100 American craft beers.

Standard tickets $35, VIP: $55

Potocki of 158 Picket Street Café, the Bread & Butter Catering Company, and Pocket Brunch, Apr. 30. flanaganstable.com Flavors of Freeport Weekend, Freeport.

Sample the area’s finest cuisine and kick back at the Flavors ice Bar, Feb. 19-21. freeportusa.com Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St., Portland.

Music Brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St., Portland. tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11, wines paired with small plates. 775-5652

94 broadturn road scarborough, maine 04074

94 broadturn road scarborough, maine 04074

Eastern Dragon by Nat Croteau

Winter is here, is your view lacking color?

• Design and Production of Art Glass for any application • Custom Memorial Windows and Donor Walls • Repair, Restoration, and Preservation of Art Glass • Classes and Workshops • Glass and Supplies

Call or come in today to see what we can do for you! www.phoenixstudio.com • 630 Forest Ave Portland, ME • 207.774.4154

P 207.885.0767

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www.cookandcookcabinetry.com

www.cookandcookcabinetry.com W i n t e r g u i D e 2016 23

experience lolita-portland.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every third Wed. 772-9463 oldportwine.com Otherside Deli, 164 Veranda St., Portland.

Wine tasting every first tues. 761-9650 othersidedeli.com Portland Harbor Hotel, 468 Fore St., Portland. Annual ice Bar with chilled libations, a warm fire and ice sculptures, Jan. 21-23.

798-9090 portlandharborhotel.com Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St., Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings all the time. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com

Down East Mushers Bowl, Bridgton. Sled dog races and skijoring accompanied by warm-up food and drinks, Jan. 23-24. downeastmushersbowl.com Sugarloaf, 5092 Access rd., Carrabasset Valley. Bud Light College Snowfest Week, Jan. 4-7; glowlight Parade and Fireworks, Jan. 11; Sugarloaf restaurant Week, Jan. 17-21; Sugarloaf Charity Summit, Jan. 30; Maine Winter Special Olympics, Jan. 31-Feb. 2; 5th Annual new england Blind & Vi Ski Festival; rail Jam, Feb. 19; uSSA Holeshot tour, Feb. 29-Mar. 3; Demo Days with Powe Snowboards, Mar. 5-6; Annual Sugarloaf Social, Mar. 5; see website for more entertainment listings. Sugarloaf.com

Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center Street, Portland. 26th Annual Maine Home & remodeling Show, Feb. 13-14; Harlem globetrotters, Mar. 18. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com

Sunday River, Sunday river rd., newry. College Week, Jan. 4-8; red Bull Frozen rush, Jan. 8; Children’s Festival Week, Jan. 11-15; go50 Week, Jan. 25-29; White Out Weekend, Feb. 5-7; Maine Adaptive Ski-A-thon; Parrothead Festival, Apr. 2-3; see website for more entertainment listings. sundayriver.com

Banff Mountain Film Festival; multiple locations. Screening some of the year’s most extreme outdoor footage, February–see website for upcoming dates. banffcentre.ca

U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden Snowbowl, Camden. Spirited competition, food and outdoor fun, Feb. 5-7.

236-3438 camdensnowbowl.com

Portland Science Center, Body Worlds, 68 Commercial St. Body Worlds, through Jan. 24; Space: A Journey to Our Future, and the robot zoo open Jan. 29. portlandsciencecenter.com

Winterfest Weekend, Downtown Portland. Family-friendly outdoor activities with scavenger hunt and prizes, Jan. 23-24. portlandmaine.com

don’t Miss

–Compiled by Jeanee Dudley

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2 4 P O R T L A N D M O n t H Ly M A g A z i n e

•PROOF_:Proof

1/7/15

•PROOF_:Proof Page 1

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8:40 AM

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DISCOvER PORTLAND’S ONLy ALL-SuITES is your display ad thatHOTEL will appear in the This is your display ad This that will appear in the WATERFRONT •PROOF_:Proof

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2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication 2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication

PLEASE EVERYTHING PLEASE PROOFREAD EVERYTHING This is your display PROOFREAD adCAREFULLY. that will appear in the CAREFULLY.

The numbers, customer format, is responsible for checking spelling, The customer is responsible for checking spelling, omissions punctuation marks,numbers, format, omissions punctuation ma and duplications, etc... and indicate any changes and/or corrections. alignment, spacing and duplications, etc... and alignment, indicate anyspacing changes and/or corrections.

2015 Visitor’s Guide Publication

The is NOT liable any mistakes, this is the responsibility of the c The Convention & Visitors Bureau is NOT liable or Convention any mistakes,& Visitors this is theBureau responsibility of theorclient.

PLEASE PROOFREAD EVERYTHING CAREFULLY. The customer is responsible for checking spelling, numbers, format, omissions punctuation marks, alignment, spacing and duplications, etc... and indicate any changes and/or corrections.

DISCOVER PORTLAND’S DISCOVER PORTLAND’S ONLY ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL The Convention & Visitors Bureau is NOT liable or any mistakes, this is the responsibility of the client.

DISCOVER PORTLAND’S ONLY ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL

Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary FullArea Breakfast Buffet ~ Ind Short Walk to the Old Port ~ Outdoor Courtyard withtoFire Mid~Week Evening Receptions Short Walk the Pit Old~Port Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit ~ Mid W

Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet Indoor Pool & Fitness Area ~ Short Walk to the Old Port

P O RT L A N D D OW N T OWPNO RT L A N D D OW N WAT E R F RO N T WAT E R F RO N

Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit Mid Week Evening Receptions Lobby Bar with Fireplace ~ Complimentary Full~ Breakfast Buffet ~ Indoor Pool & Fitness Area Short Walk to the Old Port ~ Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit ~ Mid Week Evening Receptions

145 FORE STREET ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 www.residenceinndowntownportland.com 145 FORE STREET ~ ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 ~ www.reside

P O RT L A N D D OW N T OW N WAT E R F RO N T

145 FORE STREET ~ PORTLAND, MAINE ~ 207-761-1660 ~ www.residenceinndowntownportland.

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Upcoming Performances Trinity Irish Dance Company January 29, 2016 • 8 pm

TAO: “Seventeen Samurai” February 2, 2016 • 7 pm

Matt Haimovitz & VOICE

Th e C a p i

February 5, 2016 • 8 pm

t ol

Dakha Brakha

February 6, 2016 • 8 pm

Bill T. Jones/Arnie Zane Dance Company

February 24, 2016 • 7:30 pm

Disney’s “Beauty and the Beast”

February 26, 2016 • 7 pm February 27, 2016 • 12:30 pm & 6 pm

Salzburg Marionette Theatre: “The Sound of Music”

March 2, 2016 • 7 pm D is

n ey

B ea ’s “ B e a u ty a n d th e

st ”

True Blues (Corey Harris, Guy Davis & Alvin Youngblood Hart) and The Campbell Brothers, sacred steel March 25, 2016 • 8 pm

Wu Man with Shanghai Quartet

March 31, 2016 • 7:30 pm

The Capitol Steps

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Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center April 9, 2016 • 3 pm

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April 1, 2016 • 8 pm

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Companhia Urbana de Dança

Tr in it y

April 12, 2016 • 7:30 pm

The Illusionists

April 15, 2016 • 8 pm April 16, 2016 • 1 pm & 8 pm

D a k h a B ra k h a

Ying Quartet with special guest Zuill Bailey

May 7, 2016 • 3 pm

“The Lightning Thief” May 21, 2016 • 11 am

Call PortTIX at 207.842.0800 or visit PortlandOvations.org for tickets & Ovations Membership Season Media Sponsor:

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s

Chowder

A ta s t y bl e n d of th e fa bu lou s, notewo r thy, a n d a bsu rd.

Made in the Shade

From Top: meaghan maurice; gaTacF.org; courTesy The arcTic museum aT

bowdoin; paTTy y allison; courTesy phoTo

Blade Runners So what if it’s just too cold? We can still skate outdoors at The Rink at Thompson’s Point–on 7,500 square feet of perfectly Zamboni’d ice–and warm up at two heated shelters for romance. “We have a warming yurt pub serving beer and wine,” says Molly Breton, who owns the covered rink with husband Benn.

“We clean the ice after every two-hour session.” Open 7 days, $8 per person; rent skates for $2. therink@thompsonspoint.com

Explorer Chic

the Peary-Macmillan Arctic Museum at Bowdoin College is getting all dolled up. Left: polar explorer Matthew Henson. right: Admiral Robert E. Peary, a Portland native, was a classmate of architect John Calvin Stevens at Portland High School, Class of 1873. don’t worry–the anoraks and “seal skin” boots are faux fur. $18 each or $35 the pair, community.bowdoin.edu

As of December 2015, Maine is now home to the tallest American chestnut tree in North America, according to the American Chestnut Foundation. Discovered in Lovell on land belonging to the family of renowned artist Douglas Volk (18561935), the tree measures 115 feet–smashing the previous record by 20 feet.

It’s also rare: Because of a savage blight only about a dozen American Chestnuts remain in the Maine woods. –Molly Parent

Color My World

Artist Patty Allison is turning the vintage photographs of our black & white past into living, historically accurate color. don’t miss her remarkable Imbued with Hues: Maine Historical Society Photographs, on exhibit through February 27. 774-1822 mainehistory.org

South Portland novelist Stephen Johnson shines a bright light into the shadowy emotional corners of the Forest City’s not-too-distant past in his ambitious new historical saga, The Book of Squirrels (XLibris, $21.59). Sisters eva and Cosima Lundstrum grow up, go forth, and discover moral complexities beyond their sheltered 1950s-Portland childhood. guilt, betrayal, intolerance, secrecy, disillusion, and colossal misunderstandings must be experienced on the way to self-discovery. Johnson quietly nods to Olive Higgins Prouty, whose 1940s novels Stella Dallas and Now, Voyager were made into enduring Hollywood classics. “Possibly, without intending it, some of the spirit of these melodramas got into Squirrels.”

Winterguide 2016 27

P o rt l a nd a f t e r d ar k

Sweetheart

Deals

CloCkwise from top: inga fromivanova; top left:night & Day images

Hey, funny Valentine. Step right this way.

W

B y kare n H ofreiter

inter is a great excuse to get close and cozy with the one you love. Whether it’s a flurry of feathery snowflakes sparkling in the soft illumination of a city lamp light, a ribbon of steam swirling from a mug of hot cocoa, or the stillness of an off-season shoreline, no matter how you define romance, there’s a getaway in Maine to find it.

Winterguide 2016 29

P ortl and aft e r d ark

Romancing Portland When was the last time the two of you got away? No business. No kids. No interruptions.

Portland Regency Hotel

Westin Portland Harborview

the date night Package includes: deluxe accommodation for two; welcome bottle of sparkling wine; dinner for two; and full-service regency Fitness Studio with steam, sauna, and Jacuzzi, with $50 spa credit (per person) towards spa treatment or spa product(s) http://www.theregency.com/

looking for a local escape? discover exclusive maine resident rates of up to 15% off. Book online, or call 866-716-8108 and mention rate plan reSFloat. Book now and receive a $50 dinner credit for Congress Squared restaurant, complimentary WiFi, complimentary valet parking. Call 866-716-8108 and mention rate plan lBPKg1.” www.westinportlandharborview.com

The Danforth

F

or those who find romance in the haunting beauty of a snow-dusted beach, head to the Beachmere Inn in Ogunquit. Gaze out over the gray, frothy sea from the warm comfort of your spacious room as you sip champagne and savor oysters on the half-shell while a fire dances in the background. Rent snowshoes or take a 3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Portland Harbor Hotel

Hilton Garden Inn Portland Airport get up and go for a weekend adventure and make the most of your time away when you book the Weekend getaway Package at hilton garden inn. earn double points and take advantage of breakfast and late checkout. http://hiltongardeninn3.hilton. com/en/offers/100066903.htm

sunset walk along the rocky shoreline before returning to the inn for a warming soak in the saltwater hot tub. Later, enjoy the signature haddock chowder and other freshcaught delights over dinner for two at Blue Bistro. Conclude the day with more champagne and a candle-lit

enjoy breakfast in bed or in the serene, sunny dining room overlooking the courtyard garden. the morning delight package includes a luxurious night’s lodging and a $30 gift certificate good for a delectable breakfast from award-winning eve’s at the garden. the Pamper & relax soothing massage therapy package includes a $50 gift certificate for any services at our on-site treatment rooms. www.portlandharborhotel.com

CloCkwise from top left: the portlanD regenCy; joaquin mallann; irvin serrano

Built in 1823, the danforth inn may be the most romantic hotel in Portland. make Valentine day Weekend romantic with a two-night package that begins with a split of champagne and chocolates in a luxurious suite or guest room. mornings begin with an included Champagne breakfast (served in your room if you like). after a day spent exploring the city, a romantic evening unfolds with our signature love potion cocktail and reservations at tempo dulu for a 5-course romance dinner. the romance Package includes: 2-night stay, gourmet breakfast, champagne and chocolates upon arrival, romantic Cocktail for two 5-course romance dinner for two Prices start at $290 per person, based on double occupancy. 800-9916557, http://www.danforthinn.com/

P ortl and aft e r d ark

Work up an appetite in the fresh air at the Beachmere Inn in Ogunquit. At left, a drink before dinner at the Top of the East in the Westin Portland Harborview.

62 Beachmere Place, Ogunquit, 800-336-3983, beachmereinn.com; Romantic Getaway Package $395/ couple + room cost.

If you consider Europe to be the pinnacle of glamour, you need travel no farther than Ogunquit, where Old World charm and the sun-drenched tastes of Italy await at the Hartwell House Inn. Rooms are sumptuously decorated in jewel-toned fabrics of silk, velvet, and jacquard, and furnished with antique period pieces (book the Polly Reed Room for a queen-sized canopy bed, two-person hydro-massage tub, and balcony). Upon arrival Friday, lounge upon the royal bedding (scattered with rose petals, of course) with a glass of chilled prosecco in one hand and a morsel of local handmade chocolate in the other before heading down to the parlor for wine and cheese in front of a cozy fire.

The next day, enjoy a gourmet breakfast (do not miss innkeeper Charlene Taubert’s cinnamon buns with cream cheese frosting!) before a late morning jaunt to the village center. That evening, get whisked away to the Italian Riviera with a special fourcourse “getaway dinner” at the inn, featuring hearty traditional Italian dishes like garlic lobster and shrimp crostini, linguine marinara with spicy sausage, and bécha3 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

mel lasagna. After a leisurely night’s sleep, celebrate with a Valentine’s Day candle-lit breakfast. “This package is for couples looking for a quiet and romantic Valentine’s retreat (with some incredible food) in one of

Out & About

Maine’s most scenic coastal towns,” say innkeepers (and frequent Italy travelers) Eric and Charlene Taubert.

Hartwell House Inn, 312 Shore Road, Ogunquit, 207646-7210, hartwellhouseinn.com; Valentine’s weekend package from $499/couple for 2-night stay, available Feb 12-14, must call to reserve.

Sweet surrender: Take your valentine to Vena’s Fizz House and let them shake you up a little Love Potion #9.

CloCkwise from top left: meaghan mauriCe; patriCk mCnamara Courtesy the beaChmere inn; vena’s fizz house

bath (Book Room 35 for a claw-foot tub).

Ready to meet your soulmate?

No worries. We’ll match you quickly and easily!

The Matchmaker of Maine The Best in Personalized Matchmaking

477 Congress Street, 8th Floor • Portland, Maine 04101

207-775-2288

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P ortl and aft e r d ark Twilight descends on the Inn at English Meadows.

When the way to the heart is through the stomach, romance is to be found at the Inn at English Meadows. There’s a good reason why innkeeper David Parisi says, “Foodie couples of all ages book this package.” he inn’s daily three-course breakfast (think starters of fresh-baked wild blueberry muffins and yogurt panna cotta with raspberry puree followed by main courses like “breakfast pizza”– grilled pita with lemon mascarpone, prosciutto, arugula, and egg–or Black Forest ham and gruyere cheese waffles with Sriracha maple syrup) is just the beginning. During their stay, couples will also be treated to a private, customized cooking class with Chef David Ross at restaurant 50 Local and a five-course dinner at the award-winning White Barn Inn. Options abound for working off these gourmet extravagances. Walk it off with a brisk outing to Kennebunkport’s Dock Square for a little window shopping; sleep it off with a snuggly catnap between luxu-

3 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

rious Italian Frette linens and fluffy down comforters; or go the classic route with a digestif and good book in front of a fireplace in one of the modern, sun-flooded common rooms. The rooms and suites, decorated in hushed pastels with a modern beach-chic style, provide a serene oasis for lingering in bed. Book the very private Tranquility Suite with gas fireplace

and sitting area, or the Morning Dawn Room with fireplace, two-person shower, and whirlpool tub. Other small treats to revel in during your stay include all things local like the English Meadows signature coffee blend roasted by Portland’s Coffee

by Design; hand-dipped chocolates from Dean’s Sweets in Portland; and a selection of native Maine beers and spirits.

meaDows inn

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Portland after dark

Inn at English Meadows, 141 Port Road, Kennebunk, 207-967-5766, englishmeadowsinn.com, Maine Indulgence Package: $980/per couple with 15% room discount.

Traditional romantics will feel at home at the Victorian-era Inn on Carleton. Guests at this trendy spot include Alec Baldwin.

Resplendent on a stately and quiet street in Portland’s West End, it’s a short tree-lined stroll past the city’s grandest residences to the arts district. After an afternoon spent meandering among the Wyeths and Hoppers at the Portland Museum of Art, the inn’s ornate and richly decorated guest quarters–many with fireplaces and imported Parisian chandeliers–are the perfect place to retire for a glass of champagne and a long luxurious night of rest. Upon waking, experience what owners Leo and Patricia Mennitt consider “the best part of the day” at the inn: breakfast! Can anyone say red velvet pancakes?

Inn on Carleton, 46 Carleton Street, Portland, 207-7751910, innoncarleton.com; “My Romance” package $400/couple for a 2-night stay, available Feb. 12-18.

Port Mag_Ad 13.indd 1

12/17/15 11:34 PM

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hose who appreciate the nostalgia of a hand-typed love poem will find just the right sentiment at the Press Hotel. Housed in the former headquarters of the Portland Press Herald, this boutique hotel provides the ideal Old Port location for urban exploration, with a plethora of shops, coffee houses, restaurants, pubs, and the harbor–all within a few cobblestone blocks.

Leave time for pampering and relaxation with spa treatments by Akari Spa; a threecourse, wine-paired chef’s tasting menu at Union Restaurant; and vintage cocktails (try the Acadia 75, a concoction of cognac, lemon, sugar, coastal root bitters, and bubbly) by the fireplace at the Inkwell Lounge.

Each morning, feast on a breakfast of “enhanced local cuisine” like smoked salmon tartine on pumpernickel with shaved egg, pickled onion, and capers.

“The hotel’s high design elements by local Maine artists, sexy food and beverages, and richly appointed rooms mean everyone will love this package, but especially the couple who wants a romantic, relaxing weekend to recharge,” says Carla Tracy, who provides promotion for the hotel.

Press Hotel, 119 Exchange Street, Portland, 877-8905641, thepresshotel.com; Akari Spa Getaway package from $999/couple for a 2-night stay.n

3 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Your weekend retreat…

First Green CertiFied lOdGinG in Bar HarBOr Cozy fireplaces, private sitting rooms, romantic balconies

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A short walk to restaurants, shops and galleries Open Year rOund “In Bar Harbor visit Acadia National Park and stay at Graycote Inn.” –Washington Post

www.graycoteinn.com 40 Holland Avenue, Bar Harbor, Maine 207 288.3044

American Cuisine 207.536.0469 90 Exchange St.

Open for Dinner Tuesday - Saturday 4pm - 1am

Happy Hour 4pm - 6pm & 11pm - 1am Sunday Brunch

Winterguide 2016 37

Hu ngry Ey E

An Epicurean’s Guide to

Planet Maine

Piping hot and cleverer-than-ever, the 2016 food scene unfolds.

By ClairE Z. CramEr

Sarah Morrill

R

Eggplant lasagna, in all its sensuous simplicity, is a hit at Isa on Portland’s Portland Street.

emember when we used to think we couldn’t possibly accommodate any more restaurants in this city?

It’s 2016 now, and rumors already abound that Lee Farrington is reopening Figa as LB Kitchen soon. Scales may (allegedly) finally open this winter on Commercial Street. The forces of Empire and OTTO are cooking up Hero (takeout sandwiches in Canal Plaza). Rhum Tiki Bar is materializing on Free Street. Woodford Food & Beverage is opening this month. And that’s just to name a few.

It sounds crazy since they feel like old friends now, but all of these restaurants just opened in 2015: Abilene, Crooners & Cocktails, Evo, Figgy’s, Honey Paw, Isa, Ocho, Otherside Deli, Portland Patisserie, Roustabout, Tempo Dulu, Terlingua, Tiqa, Tomaso’s, Veranda Noodle House, and Union.

OK, 2016, let’s see what you’ve got.

Winterguide 2016 39

Rousta

bout

Rock Down To…

S

uppose it’s a cold, dreary midweek lunch hour. you’re winterweary and hungry. you need a trip to Washington avenue.

“What’s good is the diversity,” says Bill park, co-owner and chef at 3 Buoys on the corner of Washington and Cumberland avenues. his four-year-old seafood and sandwich shack–renowned for its lobster rolls and the breakfasts it serves seven days a week–is festooned inside and out with nets, buoys, starfish, and a zesty array of hot sauce bottles (dozens). With the tenacity of seagulls, a couple is finishing up a burgers and

fries feast at a corner table. “and the neighborhood’s a lot nicer than it used to be.” half a block away, tu Casa serves a hearty lunch of Salvadoran food. “Sit wherever you like,” says our smiling hostess, who follows us to a window table and adjust the blinds to admit plenty of daylight. We order a cheesefilled pupusa and a platter of chicken enchiladas to share, and then settle in with the other patrons to watch soccer beamed in from South america. our selections arrive, with a dish of shredded cabbage in a bright, vinegary dressing

and jugs of red and green sauce. as he sets down the green, the waiter utters one word: “hot.” the griddled pupusa–a cornmeal pocket–is delicate, and the cheese filling is seductive. excellent flour tortillas full of hand-shredded chicken and cheese make fine enchiladas. We slosh on some of the green. No kidding ‘hot’–this sauce could cure the common cold! We add more. this adventure for two is less than $12, including tax. time for a trip to Silly’s to check out the layer cakes of the day. here, too, a

Epicurean Calendar JAnuARy 21-23 iCE Bar

The 11th annual bacchanal of ice cold fun at Portland Harbor Hotel has ice sculptures, an ice luge, fancy cocktails, tasty bites created by local restaurants, and outdoor fire pits to warm you up. portlandharborhotel.com

23 rOBErT BurnS

lunCHEOn The Brunswick Hotel & Tavern is the place for the St. Andrew’s Society of Maine’s annual birthday bash for Scotland’s bard.

Buffet lunch, poetry, and haggis come with a piper concert. Tartan attire encouraged. mainehighlandgames.org

4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

31 naTiOnal

PiE Day Rockland hosts its 12th annual pie-crazy Sunday. The town’s inns, restaurants, and provisioners serve up shepherd’s pie, pizza pie, pot pie, pastys, seafood pie, glorious galettes, and wine-and-pie pairings. Tickets to the pie parade benefit the Outreach Food Pantry. 596-6611, historicinnsofrockland.com

31 Flanagan’S TaBlE This year, the theme is Word Play: The Color Series. First up is Purple. Chefs Justin Walker of Earth in Kennebunkport and Thomas Pisha-Duffly of Honey Paw take a turn creating a dinner in this popular monthly dinner party series at Flanagan Farm in Buxton to benefit MOFGA. flanaganstable.com

FEbRuARy 9 Cajun COOking CHallEngE “Bayside American Cafe (formerly Bintliff’s) is the reigning champ,” says Dale Robin Goodman at USM’s radio station WMPG. The station’s 21st annual delicious Mardi Gras party and celebration hosts local restaurants competing for a people’s-choice vote on their

FroM leFt: Meaghan Maurice; joaquin MallMann; MalcolM Bedell; Meaghan Maurice

washington Avenue

Hu ngry Ey E

as Tu C

g Terlin

Grazing on Washington Avenue, from left: Pausing for lunch and conversation at Roustabout’s bar; a platter of ribs at Terlingua; Tu Casa’s rib-eye steak Plato Montanero; a Frisco on the rocks is served with a wink on a “man overboard” signalflag cocktail napkin at Roustabout; one of Silly’s luscious layer cakes.

brisk lunch trade is underway. a couple of women are sharing a towering “nacho, nacho Man” platter in the cozily cluttered bar; beer is being poured; Bob dylan is singing. Cakes–chocolate, pumpkin, coconut–sit on domed pedestals behind the bar. “We make everything here,” says the bartender. he points to pint bottles of hot sauce. “that recipe is a secret–Colleen [Kelly, the owner] makes it herself.” this is a make-it-yourself neighborhood. Check out the slats of wood next door at terlingua that owner pliny reynolds salvaged from his

Cajun dishes. The bon temps rouler with a lunch feast of gumbos, etouffées, jambalayas, and live music at noon at USM’s Woodbury Campus Center. wmpg.org

9 marDi graS

“It’s Mardi Gras,” she said, staring pensively out at the falling snow. “I feel nothing.”

Oh, yeah? Portland’s Po’ Boys and Pickles on Forest Avenue has the New Orleans

12-22 SnOFEST

ua

renovation of the space and turned into part of the interior design. “Pliny’s an architect,” explains bartender Joe hardy. “he rescued this [poured-concrete] bar from the old El rayo.” he pulls a glass of beer for a patron wearing a Bissell Brothers cap who turns out to be Clayton norris, owner of C.n. Shawarma food truck, who also moonlights across the street at roustabout, the newest kid on the block.

We cross the street and somehow resist visiting the tasting rooms at oxbow or Maine Meadworks–both of which are sandwiched between Coffee by design–and the chockablock repurposed antiques and whatnot shop. one door further, roustabout–at

vibe all year, but on Fat Tuesdays, look for specials and music. Or head out of town to Ogunquit for a parade and partying; to Hallowell, the self-proclaimed “Little Easy”; or to Camden’s Winterfest, which calls its weeklong festival “Maine’s Mardi Gras.”

Moosehead Lake’s week-long celebration in Greenville in-

a

cludes chili and chowder cook-offs with prizes Feb. 12, a chocolate festival with treats and games Feb. 14, and an auction. Chase away your winter blues. mooseheadlake.org

16-19 FlaVOrS OF FrEEPOrT Food and drink, including pairings and demonstrations, showcase the talents of local chefs at Freeport’s

once sleek and casual– strikes us as just the place Bartendto surrender to cocktail hour. Bartend er Kristin Pearson shakes up a “Frisco” with old overholt rye and a few dashes of magic bitters from the selection of apothecary bottles lined up on the bar. our last stop is red Sea eritrean resSilly’s taurant, where fragrant spices bewitch you at the door. husband and wife Yemane and akberet tsegai are the host and chef co-owners. it turns out, the local eritrean community is quite small. “maybe 20 or so,” says yemane. his clientele is, instead, “americans!”

MARCh

inns and restaurants–ice bar, ice luge, and a barbecue. Shop between bites. freeportusa.com

1-12 mainE

27 Flanagan’S TaBlE Chef Amanda Hallowell of Nebo Lodge on North Haven and David Turin of David’s cook up a “Red” themed dinner at Flanagan Farm in Buxton. flanaganstable.com

rESTauranT WEEk Banish your winter blues for good when this annual happening returns for an extended “week.”

Chefs all over the state aim to dazzle you with clever fixed-price menus. There’s an epic breakfast cook-off and a f lashy cocktail party. In be-

Winterguide 2016 41

Epicurean Calendar tween, you design your own festival by dining out at any of the dozens of participating restaurants. Sleuth the evolving list and the particulars at mainerestaurantweek.com

20 FrEE iCE CrEam COnE Day

“It’s an annual tradition,” says Lindsay Gifford, and a stampede. Gifford’s ice cream flings open ice-cream season with a free cone from 6 to 8 p.m. at all five of their family-owned shops in Skowhegan, Farmington, Bangor, Waterville, and Auburn. “Even if there’s a snowstorm. Especially if it’s a snowstorm, because it still means it’s officially spring.” giffordsicecream.com

26 CHili CHOWDEr CHallEngE Vote for your favorite chili and chowder from over a dozen Augusta restaurants at Augusta Armory. All proceeds benefit the Augusta Children’s Center. chilichowederchallenge.com 27 mainE maPlE SunDay

Another sure sign of spring comes on the fourth Sunday in March, when the state’s maple farms open their sugar-house doors and demonstrate the art of turning sap into syrup, with tastings and treats. Find your friendly neighborhood sugar house at mainemapleproducers.com

APRil 3 EaT THE HEaT CHili COOkOFF

Sunday River’s 25th annual fundraiser weekend benefits Sunday River Community Fund.

After the Firefighter’s Race, restaurants face off with a Beat-the-Heat chili competition, serving up batches to hungry crowds, with judging and a People’s Choice award. sundayriver.com

2-3 ParrOTHEaD Birds of a feather flock to Sunday River’s food, music, and Margarita Mix-Off among local bartenders, plus a keylime-pie eating contest. This hugely popular Jimmy Buffett/Key West-themed event is an annual tradition, with a Spam-carving competition and costumes. sundayriver.com 3 CHOCOlaTE lOVErS Fling

The highly competitive, meticulously judged by local celebrities, and divinely delicious fund-raiser for SARSSM featuring local chocolatiers moves to the Marriott at Sable Oaks in South Portland for its 30th year.

Vote for your favorites in categories including chocolate cake, cheesecake, mousse, fudge, and truffles. chocolateloversfling.org

11 FREE STREET • PORTLAND, MAINE 207.956.7350 SUR-LIE.COM SUNDAY BRUNCH 10AM TO 2PM • CLOSED MONDAYS TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 4PM TO CLOSE 4 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

6 POrTlanD SymPHOny WinE DinnEr & auCTiOn Fine wine and beautiful music highlight the 15th edition of this glamorous annual extravaganza, headlined by a multi-course feast at Freeport’s Harraseeket Inn. Star chefs Nathan Nadeau and Ken Thomas from Fore Street, Matt Ginn of Evo, Josh Berry of Union,

Hu ngry Ey E

Happy New

(Restaurants) Year

Woodford F&B co-owners Birch Shambaugh and Fayth Preyer flank executive chef Courtney Loreg. Inserts: Woodford’s Corner back in the day, and Loreg’s choux puffs.

Shambaugh’s goal sounds tasty: “A mix between a diner and a bistro.”

i

t looks as if Portland‘s crop of new restaurants in 2016 is going to be another blockbuster harvest.

Count Woodford Food & Beverage as first out of the gate in January at 660 Forest avenue. owners Birch Shambaugh and wife Fayth preyer, above, on either side of executive chef

Courtney loreg, have remodeled the Woodford’s Corner landmark with the jaunty roof line (where Valle’s Steakhouse began in 1933) into a sleek new neighborhood hangout. loreg is a Kansas native who’s cooked at Fore Street, Bresca, and aurora Provisions. “i moved back for the Woodford FB

job…from three years at the restaurant at Wente Vineyards in livermore, California… i am definitely excited about getting to work with maine seafood again.” She promises “shellfish with some interesting twists.”

Epicurean Calendar

FroM top: Sarah Morrill(2); WoodFord F&B

Mike Wiley and Andrew Taylor from Honey Paw, and the Harraseeket’s Troy Mains will preside. Maine artists donate art, event tickets, jewelry, getaways, and unusual items to live and silent auctions to benefit the symphony. 773-6128, portlandsymphony.org

16 TOaST On THE

COaST Easter Seals of Maine’s annual gala at Portland’s waterfront Ocean Gateway is a wine tasting with food from Portland restaurants that features dancing and a silent auction–including a chance for a 7-day trip to Napa wine country. toastonthecoast.com

28 Flanagan’S TaBlE The theme is “Yellow” when Krista Kern Desjarlais of Bresca and The Purple House teams with Josh Potocki of 158 Pickett Street at Flanagan Farm’s popular dinner series. flanaganstable.com

JunE 6-11

kEnnEBunkPOrT FESTiVal Food, wine, and fine art come together in this event, with special meals prepared by restaurant chefs, and wine and art receptions around the village. 772-3373, kennebunkportfestival.com

12 OlD POrT FESTiVal Portland’s sprawling, melodic, delicious all-day party offers multiple sound stages for jazz, country, folk, and rock music; all manner of children’s activities; and many jewelry, crafts, clothing, and tchotchke vendors. Even better, there’s a food-stand festival within the festival. Emphasis is on authentic ethnic food from empanadas, curries, dumplings, and noodles to the usual french-fried snacks. portlandmaine.com 17-19 MIDSOMMER CElEBraTiOn Maine’s Swedish immigrants established the northern Maine colony

of New Sweden in 1870.

The public is invited every year to join the annual midsummer celebration of Swedish food, music, and dance. maineswedishcolony.info

26 Flanagan’S TaBlE The theme is “Green,” and Rob Evans of Duckfat and Masa Miyake of Miyake are the guest chefs this time at Flanagan Farm’s popular dinner series. flanaganstable.com 23-25 grEEk FESTiVal The annual party under the big tent on the corner of Park and Pleasant streets at Portland’s Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church draws

throngs for souvlaki, gyros, moussaka, spanakopita, Greek wine, strong Greek coffee–and heavenly Greek pastries made by tireless Greek church ladies. Dance off the Dionysian feast to live Greek music. 774-0281, holytrinityportland.com

25 mainE WHOOPiE

PiE FESTiVal Bakers from far and wide bring these much-loved, creamfilled little pucks–in ever fancier flavors from pumpkin to chocolate chip to rootbeer float to blueberry pancake–to Dover Foxcroft to be sampled and judged.

Maine Street is blocked off for a day of music, kids’ stuff, rides, games, vendors,

Winterguide 2016 43

PortlandMagWinterGuide:Layout 1 12/22/15 6:36 PM Page 1

reServaTIoNS ~ 207.837.6565

So Cool The Ice Bar is back!

FEBRUARY 4-6

The Annual Ice Bar and Maine’s hottest party is right around the corner.

Join us for live entertainment, bites from the Tavern as well as our Ice Bar and drink luge.

The ice bars are open 5pm-10pm with live entertainment on Friday & Saturday from 7pm-10pm.

Tickets are $16 in advance; $20 at the door and include hors d'oeuvres.

Buy your tickets online now before they sell out. Space will be limited.

4 NoBle STreeT | BruNSwIck, Me | TheBruNSwIckhoTelaNdTaverN.coM 4 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ICE BAR PACKAGE An overnight stay for two, two tickets to the annual ice bar, two signature drink tickets and breakfast for two in the Tavern.

H u ngry EyE

Le Sandwich P

FroM top: Sarah Morrill (2); Meaghan Maurice

ortland’s a competitive sandwich town–we know this. But have you tried the Smokey biscuit at Figgy’s? how did chef/owner natalie diBenedetto (inset, right, at the window of her takeout palace on Walker Street) somehow make the combination of roasted eggplant rounds, smoked gouda, paper-thin slices of red onion, sprouts, and “paprika mayo” on a hot biscuit into the most divine lunch? diBenedetto flashes her mona lisa smile. “a few of my favorite things,” she says. and how about the otherside deli’s Banh Mi sandwich (inset, bottom right) on Veranda Street? house cured, meaty pork belly on a hot, crisp baguette schmeared with

and, well, makin’ whoopie.

564-8943, mainewhoopiepiefestival.com

July 8-10 mOXiE FESTiVal Carbonated fun–plus Moxie ice cream, a Moxie recipe contest, Friday night fireworks, Saturday’s Mox-

house-made chicken liver mouse and garnished with the requisite julienned fresh veggies, cilantro, and pickled jalapeno slivers ($9)?

Just perfect. “We cure all our meats here,” says chef/owner peter Sueltenfuss, a fixture in notable Portland kitchens for the past eight years, including at Fore Street and Miyake, and most recently as executive chef at Grace. “and all our meat is from maine farms. Whole-animal processing and charcuterie is what i’d always been aiming for.” Check out the house-cured corned beef, pastrami and bacon; smoked poultry; and a line of sausages, including the stunning chicken florentine.

ie parade, a 5K race, music, entertainment–it’s a weekend-long celebration of the soda they call “Maine in a bottle” in Lisbon Falls. moxiefestival.com

8-10 grEEk HEriTagE FESTiVal A 3-day homage to Greek culture, traditional food,

and folk arts includes live music and dancing in Saco takes place on the grounds of St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox church. The Byzantine architecture of church and stunning iconography inside are well worth touring. 284-5651

9-17 mainE POTaTO BlOSSOm FESTiVal The 69th annual homage to Maine’s famous tuber takes place in Fort Fairfield when the potato blossoms are in bloom. Races, farmer competitions, mashed potato wrestling, potatoes

cooked up many ways, a lobster and clam bake, contests, pageants, and the crowning of a Potato Blossom Queen. fortfairfield.org

11-16 CEnTral mainE Egg FESTiVal Pittsfield’s annual eggstravaganza celebrates

Winterguide 2016 45

H u ng ry E y E

Epicurean Calendar chickens and eggs in a big way. The brown egg industry sponsors a parade, street dance, window-painting contest, kids’ events, earlybird breakfast, chicken barbecue, egg-lympics, fireworks, and contests for best quiche, cheesecake, and pie. pittsfield.org

15-17 yarmOuTH Clam FESTiVal 581 Main Street So. Portland

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Every year, for the past half-century, when the third Friday in July rolls around, it’s time to fete the beloved bivalves for three whole days–clams are fried, steamed, chopped into chowders and clam cakes, plus there’s a shucking contest, live music, crafts, and a road race. The food stalls are run by volunteers, and your clam-roll lunch supports an array of nonprofit organizations. 8463984, clamfestival.com

15-17 mainE CElTiC CElEBraTiOn

Come celebrate 10 years! On the waterfront in Belfast, enjoy music, food, Highland Games, a Kilted Canter race, and a unique cheese-rolling championship involving entire wheels of the State of Maine Cheese Company’s cheeses. mainecelticcelebration.com

20-23 Culinary SCHOOnEr CruiSE

Take a cooking vacation at sea aboard the J&E Riggin with schooner chef and author Annie Mahle, cooking with vegetables from her own garden and seafood fresh from Penobscot Bay. The cruise repeats August 22-25. 800-869-0604, mainewindjammer.com

24 OPEn Farm Day

Superb Food

open year round for lunch and dinner pier77restaurant.com 207-967-8500

Farms all over the state open their gates to the public for tours on this summer Sunday. Animals for petting, fresh farm produce to sample and shop for–this is an annual chance to experience where Maine food comes from, right at the source. getrealmaine.com; maine.gov

31 Flanagan’S TaBlE

The theme is “Pink,” and the chefs are Wilson Rothschild of Terlingua and Anders Talberg of Roustabout at Flanagan Farm’s dinner series in Buxton. flanaganstable.com

AuGuST 3-7 mainE lOBSTEr FESTiVal

Every year, 20,000 pounds of Maine’s superstar crustaceans are devoured at Rockland’s annual bash. This year, “dedicated volunteers to the community” are honored.

There’s a big parade, a seafood cooking contest for amateur chefs, kids’ events, a road race, arts and crafts, and the coronation of the festival Sea Goddess. The harbor setting on Penobscot Bay is hard to beat. 596-0376, mainelobsterfestival.com

7 Flanagan’S TaBlE The theme is

“Black,” and they’re calling it the “Sous Chef Dinner” this month at Flanagan Farm’s popular

4 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Rosemont Neighborhood Restaurant Open Nightly

Bravo!

Portlanders first discovered patatas bravas–the tasty Spanish tapa made from chips or small wedges of potato–fried, subtly seasoned, and drizzled with spicy aioli–at local 188. an addictive version appears on tapas mondays at lolita. most recently, we struck gold at abilene in Woodford’s Corner. Chef-owners anna Connolly and travis Colgan turn hand-cut wedges (with skins still on) into crispedged, tender transcendant papas bravas draped in roasted red pepper aioli (above).

Adieu, poutine! dinner series in Buxton. flanaganstable.com

5-7 PlOyE FESTiVal anD muSkiE DErBy Ployes are the traditional buckwheat pancakes of the exiled Acadian French who settled northern Maine, and muskies are the local game fish. They intersect in a food/cultural/fishing event every summer in Fort Kent. 834-5354, fortkentchamber.com 12-15 aCaDian FESTiVal

The founding Acadian families who first settled the St. John Valley hold a family reunion every summer for one of the families. The public is invited to the concurrent festival of events that celebrate traditional food, crafts, music, cultural displays, a parade, and “Party du Main Street.” acadianfestival.com

Meaghan Maurice

20 HigHlanD gamES

The Topsham Fairgrounds is the place for the annual celebration of Scots culture. See Highland dancers, pipe bands, sporting events, dog trials, and a chance to feast on Maine-made haggis. Wear plaid and come hungry. mainehighlandgames.org

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27 WEllS CHiliFEST International Chili Society-sanctioned, juried competitions in the red, verde, and salsa categories for serious Winterguide 2016 47

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competitors. At the same event, you’ll find the Chilifest’s own People’s Choice amateur contest.

Anyone can enter, and there are no rules about ingredients. A people’s-choice vote determines the winner. Cash prizes, lots of spice. 646-2451, wellschilifest.com

SEPTEMbER 9-11 mOunT DESErT iSlanD garliC FESTiVal The Smuggler’s Den Campground turns into something of a garlic Woodstock. Area restaurants serve gourmet garlic creations, including garlic bread, garlic burritos, garlic brownies, and garlic cotton candy. Festival co-founder and party-guy Frank Pendola sells his “artisinal barbecue.” Many farms participate in the farmers’ market; arts and crafts vendors set up their wares; and musicians and brewers add to the fun. nostrano.com

23-25 COmmOn grOunD COunTry Fair It’s the Earth Mother of Maine’s agricultural fairs, sponsored by the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association. Organic food vendors, cooking demonstrations, folk arts, and talks by chefs, farmers, and fishermen about growing, preserving, storing, and preparing local organic produce, livestock, and seafood. 568-4142, mofga.org

OCTObER 6 SignaTurE CHEF auCTiOn

The annual elegant event for the March of Dimes “takes place upstairs at DiMillo’s on Portland’s 4 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

FroM leFt: colin Sargent

17 HarVEST FEST & CHOWDEr COOk-OFF This autumn celebration of the start of fall foliage season includes two cookoffs– chowder and apple pie–along with vendors, farmers, crafts, and music. For 18 years, this annual attraction has been a big draw for the Bethel village common on the third Saturday in September. 824-2282 bethelmaine.com

Hu n gry E y E

Bistro Sorti & Hola, ocho She’s gotta move: We gaze for the last time from petite Jacqueline’s picture window on longfellow Square (left) on new year’s eve. owners Steve and Michelle Corry promise Petite will return in a new space this spring. in the meantime, otto pizza’s marketing manager, eric Shepherd, confirms that oCHo, their creative-burrito offspring, will move into Petite’s vacated space on State Street. “We realized the concept behind oCho is probably bigger than the space it’s in now [at 654 Congress Street]. We’d like to provide a lot more interesting ingredients, with plenty of space to eat, and a bar.” otto’s owners Mike Keon and anthony allen keep busy. they’re also forging into the Back Cove/outer Forest avenue neighborhood, with a full-service otto restaurant to open at 250 read Street, and expanding their yarmouth space.

Long Wharf,” says event coordinator Rebecca Spear. “It’s a great sampling from local chefs.

We expect Elsmere BBQ, the Frog & Turtle, and DiMillo’s chef Melissa Bouchard and plenty of others.” Wine and dine and then bid on silent and live auction goods. “The chef’s tasting dinners as auction items are really popular.” 289-2080, marchofdimes.com/maine

1-10 DamariSCOTTa PumPkinFEST

& rEgaTTa This is the ultimate pumpkin celebration–there’s a pumpkin boat regatta, a pumpkin derby, pumpkin hurl and catapult, kids’ events, pumpkin pie eating contest, pumpkin pancake breakfast, pumpkin carving, a pumpkin parade. The professional growers’ competition has $10,000 in prize money. damariscottapumpkinfest.com

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2 Flanagan’S TaBlE It’s October, so

the theme is “Orange.” Chef power-couple Ilma Lopez and Damian Sansonetti of Piccolo and Blue Rooster join Andrew Taylor and Michael Wiley of Hugo’s in Buxton at Flanagan Farm’s popular dinner series. flanaganstable.com

1 CHOWDaH CHallEngE Freeport’s

Fall Festival weekend is all about art and music and food, including this competition in which area restaurant chefs compete for brag-

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite) Winterguide 2016 49

H u ng ry E y E

Epicurean Calendar

ging rights to the best seafood chowders. Taste all the entries and vote for your favorites as you benefit Freeport Community Services. At L.L. Bean’s Discovery Park in Freeport. 8653985, freeportusa.com

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around the state invite you to tour and taste their wares. Maine has more than 70 licensed cheese makers (second only to New York state)–and many have won awards. Here’s your chance to check out the cheese scene. See mainecheeseguild.org for the list of participating creameries.

15 yOrk HarVESTFEST

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“these turned out to be so popular that we’re already planning the 2016 schedule,” says coordinator nicki Bean, of the successful progressive dinners–via trolley–the nonantum resort runs at some of Kennebunkport’s most popular restaurants. “you start and finish here at the nonantum with a champagne toast. the first two stops are appetizers, then an entree stop. dessert is back here. the $95 ticket covers one course and one drink and the gratuity at each stop.” Stops may include Salt + Honey, old Vines Wine Bar, Craft Cocktails & Kitchen; one dock prime, Stripers, Bandaloop, Jillyanna’s Wood-fired Kitchen, and ocean at the Cape arundel Inn. all this and you never have to give a thought to parking.“our progressive trolley dinners are always on Sunday nights, during the shoulder seasons and on right through Christmas Prelude.” Check nonantumresort.com for the first dates in late spring.

ruSSell caron

Dine arounD town via trolley

Two days of traditional fall harvest food, activities, crafts, pony rides, and live music at York Beach. maineoktoberfest.org

Look Before You Leap

16 grEaT mainE aPPlE Day

Explore the history and variety of Maine apples through apple cooking, cider-making, art, tree care workshops, and tastings of some of Maine’s rare and heirloom apples at the Common Ground Educational Center in Unity.

Farms around the state invite you to pick your own. 568-4142, mofga.org

19-23 HarVEST On THE HarBOr Thousands flock to Portland to experience Maine cuisine at this busy, delicious and well-run extravaganza. Spectacular celebrity-chef feast events, tastings of Maine grown and produced food and drink, and a “big eat” opportunity to sample offerings from dozens of local eateries and beverage purveyors in one large venue. Most events are held on the waterfront. Plan ahead because quite a few events sell out. harvestontheharbor.com

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Winterguide 2016 51

Hun gry E y E

Epicurean Calendar Virgil Morse would run a classified ad in the Lincoln County News: “Kraut’s ready.”

Nowadays, the fresh sauerkraut at Morse’s in Waldoboro is produced almost yearround, but owners David Swetnam and Jacque Sawyer still run the little November ad–they’re happy to perpetuate the perception that autumn is kraut season, as it was when Virgil first started fermenting his fall cabbage crop into legend in 1918.

The kraut can be found in many Hannafords and neighborhood groceries; it’s on the menu at Moody’s and at Fore Street. And Morse’s on Route 220 is a lot more than a kraut shop–it’s a destination, with a European market, an extensive deli, and a German deli/restaurant. To this day, Morse’s sauerkraut is only sold fresh, never canned or bottled. 832-5569, morsessauerkraut.com

19 LE BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU

EST ARRIVÉ An annual event that begins with a pressing of the gamay grape in a few designated French villages every autumn turns into a Beaujolais nouveau event at a zillion restaurants around the world on the third Thursday in November. Celebrate in Portland at the Little Tap House, MJ’s Wine Bar, and Portland Patisserie.

DECEMbER 3 Flanagan’S TaBlE

The theme is “White.” Chef Larry Matthews of Back Bay Grill collaborates with chef Jason Williams from the Well at the year’s final feast at Flanagan Farm’s popular dinner series in Buxton. flanaganstable.com

Authentic slow smoked Texas style BBQ and hardwood grilled specialties.

3 EarmuFF Day Better known as Chester

Greenwood Day, this ice blast is in Farmington, hometown of the native son who invented earmuffs there in 1873 at the age of 15 when his ears got cold while ice skating. He’s celebrated every December on the first Saturday, with a parade and day of festivities that include gingerbread house and chili competitions and an earmuff fashion show. franklincountymaine.org

2-4 & 9-11 CHriSTmaS PrEluDE

Kennebunkport’s wonder-filled holiday celebration lasts two weekends in December, with candlelight caroling, holiday shopping with refreshments, special restaurant meals, Christmas decorations, hot chocolate, crafts, a tree lighting and the arrival of Santa via lobster boat. christmasprelude.com n

Sweet treats at Portland Patisserie

Open for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays!

Sunday Happy Hour 1p.m. - 3p.m.

448 Cottage Rd., South Portland 207 619 1948 elsmerebbq.com

Winterguide 2016 53

Flying W

by Colin W. s argent

The Lindberghs stow supplies in anticipation of their flight from North Haven, chronicled in North to the Orient.

5 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

When transatlantic solo aviator Charles Lindbergh and Anne Morrow Lindbergh married, the newlyweds slipped from the reception in a decoy car and drove in secret through the Manhattan sparkles to Long Island Sound.

A boat waited on the shore. Charles, 27, took off his coat, rolled up his sleeves, and rowed his 22-year-old bride into the night.

The New York Times was dumbfounded.

Where had the world’s greatest celebrity couple disappeared?

Lindbergh, The Lone Eagle, kept rowing, silent and bent to his purpose. The silhouette of a sleek vessel grew larger with each stroke. It had been created especially for the occasion to his exacting specifications (Eighty-six the two-berth design to a single honeymoon suite below decks, and could you fellows please make the saloon a little taller so I won’t have to bend over while I’m driving this thing?).

Radio announcers–who’d made Lindbergh the Most Famous Man on Earth for his feat of flying solo from New York to Paris in 1927–pounced on the story of the missing couple. Where do two genius lovebirds, notoriously shy, hide to find a place to begin their new life together and hear themselves think?

Associated Press, June 7, 1929. “The cruiser Mou-

CloCkwise from top left: david Clough for landvest realty; the rooms, provinCial arChives division, a 47-82-Bishop; national air and spaCe museum; north haven historiCal soCiety; Bauman rare Books

ob sessions

Home

“Yesterday’s fairy tale is today’s fact.

The magician is only one step ahead of his audience.”

–Anne Morrow Lindbergh

$4.3M

Wing who grew up enjoying summers at Wing) Deacon Brown’s Point, her grandparents’ retreat on North Haven Island and her parents’ secret destination. “Once my father was preflighting a plane. A reporter wanted to know, Just tell me what direction you’re going. He said, Up.” No wonder Lucky Lindy fit in so well in Maine.

ette, with Col. Charles A. Lindbergh and his wife, the former Anne Morrow, aboard, was going East along the Maine coast today. It was thought that the young couple might be heading for the island of North Haven and the Summer home of Mrs. Lindbergh’s father, Ambassador Dwight W. Morrow.

“The little cruiser made York harbor last night and Col. Lindbergh took on supplies sufficient to run him to North Haven, about

100 miles up the coast.

“The Mouette was tied up but an hour and then cast off and finally anchored off Cape Porpoise, some 15 miles east of York harbor. “‘Going East’ was the colonel’s reply to an invitation from Republican National Committeeman Joseph W. Simpson that he spend the night at York Harbor.”

“That sounds like my father,” says Reeve Lindbergh, the bestselling author (Under a

A

As for the name Mouette for the getaway yacht, “That sounds like my mother,” Reeve says. It’s sensitive and lyrical, a canny nod to intimacy and distance. It means seagull in French, near and dear to Charles Lindbergh because they were the first living things he saw to let him know deep down that he’d made it across the Atlantic in his famous flight.

Both Charles Lindbergh and Anne Morrow Lindbergh sought sanctuary for many summers afterward in their honeymoon Winterguide 2016 55

destination in Maine, the place of Anne Morrow Lindbergh’s magic girlhood on North Haven Island. Anne’s father, a partner at J.P. Morgan and later Ambassador to Mexico and U.S. Senator from New Jersey, had commissioned Deacon Brown’s Point to be built in the 1920s to enjoy its inimitable views of the Camden Hills.

The architectural firm of Delano & Aldrich designed the main house in the late 1920s for Ambassador Morrow, the company having displaced McKim, Mead & White as the firm of choice for New York City clubhouses and, in turn, their members’ houses, according to Architectural Digest. Clients included members of the Whitney, Vanderbilt, and Rockefeller families. In this case, a casually luxuriant farmhouse getaway (all the rage–think Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House) as a respite from urban tumult was just what the ambassador ordered.

O

N

North Haven Island was Charles’s and Anne’s northernmost U.S. jumping-off point for North to the Orient. After launching from the harbor here, the two flew across Canada and Alaska to reach the North Pacific, Japan, and China. Anne’s moving account of the adventure won the first National Book Award ever given for nonfiction. It was number one among nonfiction bestsellers in 1935. In spite of its fame, it is an underrated book. Like Deacon Brown’s Point (for that matter, all of North Haven Island), it is a work of misunderstood beauties. A crush of radio and print reporters covered their takeoff in a Lockheed Sirius modified with floats from North Haven harbor into history.

On the market right now is a matter of national, and deeply personal, significance.

Every inch of this property whispers Morrow/Lindbergh. Anne Morrow Lindbergh is the soaring talent. She knew and described North Haven as no one can or ever could again. Their daughter Reeve remembers those days: “It was my grandmother’s house,” Reeve says via telephone from her home in Vermont. “She died when I was nine, in 1954.

My mother was very much attached to the property. That was the summer place. So dear was it to her, you can see that the apple tree right on the front of the house has been pruned, so she could sit on the branches.

“I remember it as a kind of a paradise from my early years. North Haven meant freedom for me. We had nurses. Our parents would come and go. I’m sure there were watchful eyes over us. The presence of that generation was there [pruning the tree], but we thought we were free. We could go all over the property. It was very exciting to be on that land.”

Just as they are today, “There was a white fence and two gateposts coming toward the front door, and you can sit on them. It’s very clear to me, my cousin Rhidian Morgan and I were sitting on those gateposts. There was a beautiful garden path.” Approaching the black front door, surrounded by shingles silvered by storms, “There was that wonderful, very embracing entry to the house I remember best.” Inside, there were “lots of rooms, a big dining room. While it was very similar to my grandmothers house in Englewood [New Jersey, across the Hudson from

“Around 1930, when my dad was six, he was sitting on a granite wall beside the North Haven Library. A tall, thin man got out of a boat. He gave my dad a penny and said.‘If some people are looking for me, tell them I went this way.’ Then he turned and walked the other way.” -Eric Hopkins, artist Manhattan], it was lighter. Chintzes, bookshelves, even the furniture felt just lighter.

Clearly designed for summer. I didn’t know how fleeting summers like that could be.”

Day to day, “It was very much a house for the Morrow family. The men would come and go, and the women and children would be there. My grandmother had a cook, Elsie. My brother John would catch fish and

5 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

CloCkwise from Bottom left: david Clough for landvest realty (2); Colin sargent (5)

ob sessions

My father said Charles & Anne Lindbergh used to fly after supper sometimes. He’d listen as they climbed higher and higher above North Haven. Then the sound of the engine would stop. Charles liked to deadstick the plane and land on his field right in front of the house.

He liked calculated risks. -Eric Hopkins,artist

bring them in [for supper].” Here on the wild Maine coast, “There were finger bowls.

It was good, but not fussy cuisine. Oh, yes, lobster. I remember the butter balls,” the napkin holders.

In later years, “we [ventured all over the island]. My sister Anne was one of the slightly older group [of perennial summer cousins visiting]. She was their ringleader.

Long blonde braids, very intense, very mischievous, and kind of magical. She loved going on the rocks and playing pirates. I don’t know if she lit fires on the beach, but she had a twinkle in her eyes. She wasn’t always good. I wasn’t particularly active with the older crowd. I was always the watcher.”

W

Watching her mother write, Reeve was inspired to become a writer herself. She always marveled at her mother’s intimate distances, beginning with North to the Orient.

“They were just, in 1931, starting off,” Reeve says. “Here she is, writing about flying over North Haven, just coming over the property: ‘As we neared our geographical destination, we were also nearing an emotional one.

The last lap of the journey across to the island by small boat completed both of these ends and each familiar personal landmark,

drawing from us the same exclamations– “The four-masted schooner is still there!”

“Isn’t that the five-mile buoy?” “There’s our big spruce tree!”–linked us at last completely and satisfactorily to all past summers–to all vacations and to Maine.’”

So in the library at Deacon Brown’s Point, a most unusual situation foreshadowed the present day. Imagine Charles,

Anne, and their daughter Reeve together, joking and chatting. Who knew the Pulitzer Prize-winner in the family (Charles, for The Spirit of St. Louis), would wind up in the trail position in terms of talent? It wasn’t that the daredevil and engineering savant couldn’t write.

“It’s just that I don’t think he had that type of surrender,” Reeve says. “His thought Winterguide 2016 57

ob sessions processes were different. His writing was almost oratorical. You can hear him speaking when he writes. Emotion and distance.

There’s a lot you understand from writing, and quite a lot you hold back. You can’t let every bit of it out. There’s a balance of self protection and revelation,” a telling secrecy.

M

“Reeve’s sister Anne bought a painting of mine, too,” says Eric Hopkins. “When she came to my gallery, my work didn’t seem to get to her. But she came back the next day, smiled, and touched my elbow.‘I woke up last night, thinking of this painting.’”

It is the Thacher family, who has loved this place dearly for the following decades, who are now offering it for sale.

“Some [Morrow and Lindbergh] things stayed after the china was sold,” Reeve says. “When you go to see the house, please check and see if there’s a big map on the wall with my father’s signature on it. I think that’s still there. Don’t forget to tell me about the map.”

I

If you’re traveling from a distance to tour this property, a great way to experience it is to stay at the Samoset Resort the night before.

You can enjoy a romantic oceanfront dinner on the mainland, wake to sunrise and coffee on your private deck, drive 1.5 miles, and catch the ferry to North Haven in the graceful, unhurried way you deserve. As the boat pulls away from the mainland, you suddenly find yourself in the middle of an Eric Hopkins painting–shaggy islands, pointed pines

5 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

dissolving into blue infinity.

Once you’ve landed, it’s a winding drive across an eternity of silence to reach Deacon Brown’s Point. We do a double-take as we approach the boundless 15.88-acre estate with its sea grass and 1,400 feet of rocky surf. The black clutch of an apple tree. Nothing less than a lone eagle is swooping over the house to bid us welcome. We catch our breath. He spirals slowly over the roofline, banks 45 degrees, and continues on his great circle route.

from top: david Clough for landvest realty (3); Colin sargent

Many Mainers have no idea that we hosted the summer retreat for the Lindberghs for so many decades, and that Maine is so central a creative force. It took some energy to keep this under wraps. When the Lindberghs traveled, they often traveled under assumed names, the children, too. Even their car was designed to be under the radar, to discourage a second glance.

“It’s funny–[in a place that had a four-car garage and chauffeur’s quarters] my father drove a Volkswagen.” No need for TV reception on North Haven, because the Lindberghs did not watch TV. Across time, a wistful rebellion grew in Reeve that energizes her work and even factored into her choice of schools, Radcliffe. Which must have been a scandal, because Reeve’s grandmother had been president of Smith College, “My mother went there under duress,” she says. “My sister and I did not go to Smith.” Anne, too, went to Radcliffe and became an author herself, dying of cancer at 53 in 1993. “We did it out of an upside down and backwards loyalty to our mother.”

More time went by, though it stood still on North Haven, where, constant as the north star, there’s still that apple tree, still pruned by an invisible hand. “I love that apple tree.”

Reeve and her husband still visit North Haven from time to time to say hello to the stars, most recently a couple of summers ago. “We’ve known the Thachers forever,” she says of the family who purchased Deacon Brown’s Point after her grandmother died.

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Winterguide 2016 59

ob sessions The shape of the fields tells a story. On this grassy swale, Charles Lindbergh arrived and departed in multiple generations of private aircraft. On this stone crescent beach, he rowed in from his flying boats and likely moored Mouette. Perched on these lichenstained stone walls, he looked over the ocean with his wife and imagined and mapped out endless, impossible adventures.

T

There is something so big and charmingly sprawling about this unforgettable cottage. Nearly all of the 13 bedrooms has a water view across Penobscot Bay, looking out on the blue curves of the Camden Hills and Pulpit Harbor. Gracious entertaining?

There’s a 28-foot dining room with Georgian crown molding and a fireplace.

The living room is 24.5 feet and includes more crown molding, a fireplace, and bookshelves (in case pals like Elizabeth Bishop stopped by, a copy of her poem “North Haven” hangs on the wall).

In this rarefied company, no matter whether you self identify as a Morrow or a Lindbergh or a Thacher, you have a sitting

“One of my studios is near the end of the runway at North Haven. Not long before she died, Anne Morrow Lindbergh, at the controls, flew a plane from Portland to the island.A pilot friend of mine who’d hitched a ride with her said, ‘Well, she’s still got it.’”

-Eric Hopkins, artist

room, too, 20 feet, complete with built-ins.

The ice-chest room is still here, and the solemn white baths and sinks, original to the house. A stylist or set designer would swoon at the homey, homely wallpaper in many of these rooms. And yes, Reeve, a

number of original charts are on the walls just the way Charles Lindbergh left them, along with handwritten amendments and drawings of aircraft. So is a large black and white photo showing North Haven, and this estate, from the air.

If you’re keeping score, the Thacher family includes novelists and financiers, such as the well connected Auchinclosses (one with no degree of separation from Gore Vidal, and another the stepfather of Jackie Kennedy), which explains why paint-

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ings by Hugh Auchincloss adorn many of the rooms today. Liz Thacher Hawn, writing from Minneapolis by way of New York, helps us keep it straight:

from top: david Clough, landvest realty; ClassiCBoat.Com

“M

My parents bought the Morrow place in an arrangement with Connie Morgan (Anne Morrow Lindbergh’s sister) and Chester Bowles. The Morgans kept the guest house of the property along with the land around it, including the tennis court, which they kindly allowed us to use. Most evenings, if it wasn’t raining, were spent on the patio outside of the dining room where the views over the bay extended from Rockland to Blue Hill. It was a lovely place to hang out and talk about everything under the sun. In short, we loved the place and still do. Sadly, ownership divided among so many families is difficult to manage so we have decided, as we are moving into our seventies, that it is time for us to sell, hoping that another family will come along who will enjoy it as much as we have.”

The upsides are the downsides of this gorgeous slice of bold oceanfront. It’s grand, has chauffeur’s quarters, can only be reduced by “improvements.” Heaven forbid the apple tree gets cut down. Property taxes are $25,734.

Because Mouette took us here, let’s step on board again. Because the Lindbergh honeymoon yacht is still afloat in 2016 (many owners later, fully restored on a lake in Wisconsin). “Oh, yes, the Mouette,” Reeve says.

“We used it to go back and forth to the island. I know my grandmother used it later. It was built by the Elco Electric Boat Co. [who would later design and construct John F. Kennedy’s PT-109], owned by the family of one of the St. Louis backers [of the Spirit of St. Louis]. They still make them.”

She waits just long enough for an apple to drop. “Aboard the Mouette, I think it might have been their first time alone together. I think it might have been built for that reason. It was one of the lovely things.”

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Winterguide 2016 61

ob sessions

$10.9M

Risk Mgmt.

Your basic 3-bedroom, 8,000-square-foot Xanadu.

6 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

with the exquisite works of art and furniture I have collected over the years of my travel especially Asia.”

Imagine a building site that moves while it stays still.

So mystical was this spot, it “could easily be any coastal island in Japan, Korea, or Northern China.” He started building it inside his mind. From the start, he knew it would have “gardens and Japanese grounds that would make Kyoto proud.”

It was a hands-on experience to build The Froggery, a 15-acre temple crowned by an 8,000-square-foot palace on 500 feet of water frontage. Blin’s favorite spot? “In the turret facing east between the deck over the atrium and the media room to the north, there is a secluded spot with two club chairs straight from any of the majestic ocean lin-

ers” out of the past, “say the SS Normandie. Here you sit watching the sunrise. Even in the middle of the day it is shaded and secluded enough that time does stand still.

In the upper Japanese gardens at the very top of Abrams Mountain, it’s equally timeless. Make a cup of Sencha and sit in the tea house overlooking Penobscot Bay. You will never want to leave when you see the Bay through the Tori gates. Again you could be on Hokkaido.”

S

o he’s the genius who designed and founded Advanced Portfolio Technologies, Inc., in New York, and earned his stripes as an expert on risk assessment, invested millions to build a dream some people might misunderstand on the jagged coast of Maine. Because he couldn’t afford

decaro luxury auctions

I

magine being the inventor of the risk-management algorithm that stood the New York Stock Exchange on its end and changed its direction forever. Having earned your fortune, you’re now zigzagging among these islands off Rockport in your yacht. You peer through the mist at the wildest part of Islesboro jutting straight up from the sea, snarling with pines, half invisible in the fog. You have your 30-seconds Eureka moment.

You’ll build your Xanadu right here.

“An island is a boat at permanent anchor,” says Dr. John Blin, the financial visionary. “When I visited Islesboro and [caught a glimpse of] that special spot overlooking the bay facing East, I thought of designing a house with many of the features of the classic yachts of yore and furnishing it

not to?

“Risk is one of those words that’s just too familiar for comfort! You know it when it’s too late. Before risk, its that amorphous nagging afterthought in the back of our mind.

Keeps gnawing at you. In the world of finance, it’s that feeling that what you think you own may in fact be built on quicksand.

So how do you deal with it? Well, the thing is that whatever you hold does not exist in a vacuum. Its value is relative to/dependent on everything else. Think of a piece of cloth.

The naked eye can hardly see the threads, interwoven into a seemingly whole piece.

Under a microscope the threads appear far more like individual pieces with their own separate existence. When we think of assets (stocks, bonds, houses, precious metals, diamonds, whatever) we tend to think Winterguide 2016 63

6 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

hope) of our wealth on earth there are even more dimensions.”

E

arly on, the financial universe resisted this algorithm. Blin doubled down and tried “[Winston] Churchill’s one-percent inspiration and then ninety-nine percent perspiration. Or even blood, sweat, and tears. Initially you meet with doubt if not derision and polite ignorance. You just keep going. And eventually it becomes recognized as the risk management system bar none. Or as one of our very famous, world-class clients (American) puts it: it’s the gold standard when it comes to risk.”

Since he’s not risk-averse, does this play specifically into his putting this mansion

and estate up for auction? This is a highstakes gamble. Auction estimate: $10.9M. “I am an economist and mathematician by training. I believe that in fact the most effective way to discover value is to focus the pool of potential buyers in a very laser-oriented venue–an auction. In the markets the auction process is well established. Ditto in the allocation of such goods as the spectrum. The traditional ‘waiting for Godot’– wait-and-see-if-someone-is-interested–is very inefficient and, all things considered, unlikely to bring in the real value save by pure accident. Hence the auction format.”

As he speaks to us, Blin is 14 hours ahead of us, in Hong Kong, talking about rustic Maine. What’s Hong Kong got that we haven’t got? “Well, I’ve used the place [on Islesboro] now for 10 years. My life focus while very much international as always (I was born and grew up in Normandy, France; got my PhD; and spent my years in the U.S. albeit in a global company I founded) has now decidedly shifted to Asia where I believe the 21st century will play out to a large degree. So that’s where I am focusing the next chapter of my life. As Jim Rogers

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of them singly first, then as a follow up we think of possibly swapping one for the other. Well there you have it: if everyone feels that way (and they do), then they have met the enemy: they are the risk! It’s that behavior which leads to the rocking and rolling.

So to measure risk and deal with it you need to come up with a mathematical model that allows you to process the whole lot in one single representation. The math is fascinating as it shares a lot with many different areas. Suffice it to say that the insight is that this mathematical representation requires imagining many dimensions far more than the 3 or even 4 with physics space-time that we are used to. Modern physics has expanded to many more dimensions, e.g., in String Theory. Well, in the world of assets what we own and use as a repository (we

o b s e s si ons

put it: In 1800, if you wanted to do something, you went to London. In the 20th century, you went to New York. In the 21st century, you go to China/Asia. Hong Kong is the one spot for a gweilo (Westerner in Chinese) like me to bridge the gap quickly while I am learning Mandarin. Using the same approach as in the risk area, one can create a low-risk investment strategy with good upside and limited downside–not some mad promise of outsized returns but a disciplined, well-thought-through, quantitative approach. I have used it for my own investments very successfully. Using my audited record, I am about to launch a global fund using that strategy.�

Time for you to take your shot? The house will be sold at auction to the highest bidder without reserve on site at 180 Abrams Mount Road, Islesboro, June 16.

Winterguide 2016 65

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The Butterfly y

Hunter

C

ousin to novelist John Dos Passos, international butterfly authority Cyril Dos Passos (1887-1986) set up a getaway on Rangeley Lake after World War II and enjoyed the quiet splendor here. Hunting high and low in Maine in spite of deadly bouts with hay fever, he discovered many variants of the winged species, particularly rare variations of oeneis katahdin, pictured.

To read a splendid monograph about visiting Dos Passos at his house in Maine, visit http://bit.ly/1JsyjnV. After he died, his son Manuel owned it.

Manuel sold it to Carll Burr, a big real-estate family from New York, says listing agent Caryn Dreyfuss of City Cove Realty.

To reach this 2.56-acre retreat from Rangeley Village, follow Route 4 South one mile. Take a right on Burr Road. When the road forks, turn left and enter the private gate, where you’ll find No. 17.

6 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Built in 1950, the 1,868-squarefoot cedar-shingled lakefront cottage has two high-pitched pavilions connected by a gracious central entrance. The wraparound screened porch invites with cooling views of the lake. Inside, this rustic classic with knotty pine interior has a fieldstone fireplace with Jotul gas insert in the living room. The built-in library near the fire, also

in knotty pine, is worthy of its eminent occupant. Just as lovely, the dining room has built-ins, a corner cabinet, and a gas stove.

There are four bedrooms and three baths; the master bedroom with clawfoot bath en suite is on the first floor with entry to the living room. Upstairs, there’s a tub over the kitchen.

Outside there is 375 feet of water frontage, with crystal views of Greenvale Cove, and in the blue distance across the lake, Bald Mountain and Doctors Island. To the rear is Nile Brook, which defines the back of the property. There’s a front-lawn fire pit with views of the lake. Another winged victory: a classic, drive-in boathouse with an electric boat hoist.

These butterflies aren’t free. Price is $1.15M.

from top: dennis redfield; caryn dreyfuss, city cove realty(2); butterfly-wikipedia/dumi

$1.15M

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o b s e s si ons

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T

he only care before you descend for a swim in your wife margaret bought the house 60 waterfront pool–which overyears ago,” says listing broker linlooks your 175 feet of water frontage da Jonas at the Swan agency. “they on york’s nubble Point–is where you had nine children.” With 9,600 square left your Krystle Carrington silk beach feet, 14 bedrooms, nine bathrooms, robe. “Land’s end at nubble Light” is and eight fireplaces, “edge Cove” 7,000 square feet of vast, pavilion-sized is a castle. “there’s a wonderful scale rooms, soaring windows, and “endless to the rooms. the cabinetry, butler’s pantry, and moldings are all origiBROWN JO R D A N S P R I N G S A L Eviews,” S EasVlisting E Nagent T troy Williams of Keller Williams luxury homes notes. nal. and you’re right next door to the With five bedrooms and 4.5 baths, yacht club in northeast harbor.” the you’ve got plenty of room for company. $4.575m price includes 223 feet of ere is a beautiful bit of histhe $3.75m price includes the sight of rocky shorefront, two acres to roam, tory, built in 1900. “J. Peter nubble light, almost close enough to and a charming guest cottage. taxes grace [1913-1995, grandson of intouch. taxes are $29,400. n are $27,048. dustrialist titan W.r. grace] and his

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his classic cottage dates to 1903, but restoration and reconstruction have turned the 5,000-square foot main house–with four fireplaces, a chef’s kitchen, detailed woodwork, air-conditioning, and amenities–into a 2016 yearround showplace. the $7.5m price includes a 1,900-square-foot guest cottage, a dock, stone beach, and generous decks. gaze up Penobscot Bay to the Camden hills and east to the islands. taxes are $46,733.

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31 Hardy point road, pembroke

he view this home has looks up and down the entrance to Hersey Cove,” says Edward Nadeau of Due East Real Estate.

To get there, follow Route 1 to the Pembroke Post Office. “Go down to Old County Road, turn left, and in about 1,000 feet, go straight onto Hardy Point Road.

“The home sits half a mile from the end of the bay. Sitting on the deck, which extends right out over the water, you have a

view of the entire Hersey Cove.”

The 1960 cape has been moved onto a new poured-concrete basement. “The nice, deep, eight-foot basement preserves this home’s structure,” says Nadeau.

Years ago, the 2,200-square-foot commercial garage that’s included was a familyowned auto shop where the owner did fineauto painting.

“A couple things make this home special. One is that current ordinance would

not allow an over-the-water deck like this to be built now. It’s a wonderful concrete pad with room for 10 or 15 people below a woodframed trellis providing shade. There’s a pretty yard, and to the right there’s a place to back a small boat down into the water.

Hersey Cove is a very safe large bay that’s excellent for kayak or small-boat use. It opens up into Cobscook Bay.” Then there’s the potential for making use of the commercial building. A home business with a waterfront home is a very attractive concept at $169,000. Taxes are $1,646.

Winterguide 2016 71

r e al estate

$199,000

T

95 dewey’s lane, lamoine

his sweet spot sits just above Mount Desert Island in Hancock County, close to Lamoine State Park and Lamoine Beach.

“To get there,” says Realty of Maine broker Travis Coffin, “take Route 184 for 1.5 miles past the Lamoine General Store. Just before you reach the Lamoine School, Fire Department, and Garage, turn onto Shore Road and continue another 1.5 miles. Take a right onto Dewey Lane, a dead-end road.

The property is located .4 miles down, almost at the end.

“You’re on Mount Desert Narrows (East-

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ern Bay) here, facing south toward Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park.

Views of Cadillac Mountain are great from this elevated shorefront property.

“The 1940 cottage has year-round potential with private septic and private water, but I feel three-season usage is probably best unless you want to lift the cottage and put it on a foundation.”

The two-bedroom, 750-square-foot shingled getaway includes wood floors, a laundry, deck, and fireplace.

The property has been in the same family for over 60 years. It consists of two separate small lots, so there’s room to expand or simply keep the private setting naturally landscaped. Taxes are $1,367.

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29 snyder road, eastport

listed this house about nine years ago as an estate,” says Edward Nadeau of Due East Real Estate. “Family sent me the key to go look at it. Basement had eight inches of water in it, and some minor things needed work inside.

“I was contacted by a local nurse who looked at several homes and loved this one, even with the water in the basement. She hired a few contractors to look at it and decided it was something that could be corrected fairly inexpensively.

“I heard from her over the years. She loved the house, location–and the nice dry, full basement. She would have stayed here forever, but her job was not offering the challenges she needed. She has family in the Portland area, so she decided to take a job there.”

To get here, take Route 190 into Eastport.

After a large woolen mill building, turn right onto Toll Bridge Road, then turn right onto Snyder Road.

“The view driving along Snyder Road is of Half Moon Cove, a quiet bay of Cobscook Bay. Views from the kitchen, deck, 7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

and anywhere in the yard are of that open ocean bay. Eastport has the second highest tides in the world at 24 feet per cycle, so the view is always changing every hour you look out here.

“The owner loved evenings, with the tide slightly out. She has a rock fire pit down on the beach and would sit around the campfire right on her own private beach. The house is on a corner, so it has water frontage all along the road and around a bend–very private and serene. But a five-minute drive and you are in Eastport’s historic downtown waterfront district.

“The hidden secret with this property is that it includes 1 Lovelace Road, which has a derelict house on it that’s been vacant for years. Tear it down–or have the fire department use it for training–because once it’s removed, you have an expansive yard. You could build a double garage/workshop or even put up a rental home.”

Nadeau sums it up. “Great value here for $122,000.” Taxes are $1,819. n

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a rt i s t at wor k

Urbane rattle Sculptor, painter, printmaker, illustrator Charlie Hewitt dares to crash our consciousness. story and pHotos By diane HUdson

w

hen Charlie Hewitt rattles Manhattan’s (and Portland’s) cages, art lovers are riveted in the moment. But if you stalk him to his studio to see where the creator of Urban Rattle lives, he surprises with a sense of ‘here and now’ in not one but three places: Lewiston, Portland, and New York.

For his deepest and darkest beginnings, it’s Lewiston, where he was born in 1946. Like Marsden Hartley, he channels the river for creative energy.

More recently, Hewitt’s creative work gets done in Portland. The quintessential artist turbine, Hewitt sizzles in his 2,000-square-foot space studio space in the former Calderwood Bakery building on Pleasant Street.

Winterguide 2016 77

“When I am starting a new body of work,” as he did for the Rattle sculpture series, two of which are in Maine–one in Lewiston, the other, Portland–“I begin with doodles. I have hundreds of pages of doodles.” He holds up a wild page of them from this month alone.

“I believe in coming at ideas inadvertently, through the back door. This doodling isn’t high art, but I love this low way of thinking, scratching around, allowing things to pop up from my subconscious.

That’s where my best ideas lie.”

Hewitt once told a friend he considered his work a bit silly. But it’s silly like a fox, part “idiot,” part “sophisticate.” n December, Portland Rattle rose in the middle of Portland’s Arts District, at 511 Congress Street. The sculptures are a cluster of hollow aluminum abstract shapes, each seven to nine feet high, set atop 20-foot

I

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aluminum light poles. The shapes, “doodlelike” and painted in glorious color contrasted with black to “bring it all into balance,” are open to interpretation.

It All BegIns In lewIston Another sophisticate success came for Charlie in 2015 in a collaboration with director Gary Robinov, producing the moving

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film about Muhammed Ali, Raising Ali: A Lewiston Story. Neil Leifer’s photo, capturing Ali urging Liston to “Get up and fight,” was the inspiration for Hewitt, and the photo hangs in his studio today. Hewitt told The New York Times, “It’s a sentimental portrait of a struggling old factory town that was visited by greatness. And what Ali told Liston as he was standing over him resonates today.

Lewiston is still trying to get up and fight.”

Hewitt identifies strongly with his home town of Lewiston/Auburn, and was deeply disturbed by the string of fires that were set in Lewiston in recent years. “What are they doing, destroying this beautiful place?” he asked. He vowed to build sculptures on the burn sites. Lewiston Rattle was completed and installed in August 2015 on lower Lisbon Street. An evolution of his previous Urban Rattle, which stands along the High Line in Lower Manhattan, the Lewiston piece is “simple, clever, and successful.” He’d like to see all the lots the city can’t sell or use transformed through public art pieces.

Lewiston’s Rattle has some specific, iden-

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Winterguide 2016 79

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8 0 p o r t l A n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

a rt i s t at w o rk tifiable references such as the Iron Cross, alluding to Marsden Hartley’s iconography; a nod to Franco-American heritage with a fleur-de-lis; and to the Somali population, using the country’s shape and colors of blue and white.

Hewitt says of the Rattle shapes, “There are nods to nature with tree allusions, the sun, or some kind of high spirited form. There are no words. These are visual movements, a narrative constantly changing. As soon as I describe them, they are no longer interesting.”

CreAtIve CollABorAtIon walk through his Portland studio shows lots of projects underway, in several media. Tables are covered with large bowls sculpted from clay. Collaborating with Sam Thomason, who molds the forms for the bowls and does the firing, Hewitt does the carving and makes engravings on the clay, cutting out inserts that will adhere to the center of the bowl. He then paints inside the lines, has them fired, paints again. “They become painting instruments– I am really a painter at heart.”

“There is a demand for these–my gallery in New York (Jim Kempner Fine Art in the Chelsea gallery district) is sold out, and another gallery in Connecticut is planning a show of them. They are misunderstood and fall into the ‘craft’ field, so they don’t sell for as much as prints or paintings. But that allows for more playfulness and less angst among the buyers who can just say, ‘I love it’ and buy it without considering all the aspects that go into making an art investment.”

Then there are the large, wonderfully colorful, multi-layered prints in progress. For these, he works with David Wolfe, a master printer specializing in relief and intaglio printing, whose studio and enviable collection of printing equipment is adjacent to Hewitt’s at the Bakery.

“Collaboration is everything to me,” Hewitt says, mentioning several artists he works with (Bob Menard and his son Dan at Ball & Chain Forge for sculpture; Sam Thomason for ceramics; Gary Robinov, film; David Twiss, print and woodworking). “Maine is special for me that way. It has changed my world.” He likens his eight years at the Bakery studios to the Brill building in New York during the musical heyday of the 1950s and early 1960s, or the old days in Soho where the artists’ studios were all stacked up. “If you needed paint or a beer,

A

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there was always somebody to go see.” the MArsden hArtley spArk This leads to talk of his next project, illustrating Androscoggin, a book of Marsden Hartley poems, in collaboration with David Wolfe. “This would never happen if Wolfe and I were in New York. He’d be somewhere in East Red Hook–we might get together a time or two, then it gets to be a hassle, so why not just use Kinko’s?”

We walk into Wolfe’s intriguing space and find the Hartley work that so excites them. Androscoggin was published in 1940, three years prior to Hartley’s death.

“I discovered this book by accident when I was 22,” says Hewitt. While visiting a friend on Cape Cod he spotted it on a shelf and said, “Hey, I grew up on that river!” Opening it, he discovered the book was

by Marsden Hartley and was astonished to learn that this artist, whom he greatly admired, was born in Lewiston. “They never told us that when we were kids!”

He adds, “The book became something of a reference to me, like the river to Hartley, a reference to youth and the dark and oceans. It’s part of my Lewiston heritage.”

The three of us return to Charlie’s studio, as Wolfe also wants to see Hewitt’s drawings in progress for the project. Thumbing through a pad full of doodles dedicated to the book, Hewitt reads from the poem “Lewiston is a Pleasant Place.” He begins: “‘The harsh grinding of the mills rang in my ears for years…’”

Just that “is enough for me to see smoke stacks and wheel things being churned out,” he says, “and then we come to the ‘log drives

and jams above the falls…settling into jackstraw patterns’…”

“Aha! I’ve got this great image here. I like this one. Just piles of logs. A stack, a crazy stack of logs.” the rIver of tIMe ewitt first arrived in New York in the mid-1960s, settling in Soho to work as an artist. He studied at the New York Studio School but thinks of his education and inspiration as being a lot like his mentor, Herman Melville. Hewitt owns more than 250 copies of Moby-Dick in many languages.

“When I read this book at 23, I thought it was written by an old man. Now that I’m an old man, I realize it was written by a boy.

That’s a phenomenon I like to bridge back and forth. For Melville, the book came pouring out of his subconscious. Nobody taught this young man how to write; he learned how to live, and the writing came after. I appreciate that his education was in work, not in the university. Similarly, I’ve done a lot of living and am very secure in that, so my work is secure because of that struggle.”

Hewitt’s creations can be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Whitney Museum, Brooklyn Museum, Fogg Art Museum, and in Maine at the Portland Museum of Art, Farnsworth Art Museum, and the museums at Bowdoin and Colby colleges.

Hewitt’s next Rattle is slated for Dallas. Beyond that, Charlie hopes for one in Eastport.

“What fun to see the sun rising over it and the Canadians looking down, saying, “What the heck are they doing over there?” n

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Winterguide 2016 81

L’Esprit de L’Escalier

Voilà

Translations can be tricky.

R

easons for idioms in one’s expression of one’s language? Insider knowledge. The measure of one’s travels across life as transferable skills crossing borders to other tongues tinctured by geography–Canadian French; fantasy “Parisian”; regional, actual French; Haitian French; Creole; the French of Africa; Belgian–real or virtual. Plenty of vs. lack of language. Think dooryard, driveway, Maine meets jardins, gardens, Maine.

“Comment ça va”? How’s it going? “Ça marche”–it walks, runs, marches, to the beat of pas pire, not bad. Tout est OK. S’tokay.

Stacose, anteka, drette là–because, anyway, right there. Pantoute. Not at all. Tedben–perhaps. Or, could be. Ayuh. American-made, French-style idioms. People of the culture, or not, get together under the rubric of French and you can set your watch by the amount of time it will take for the conversation to turn towards which French. Have French, don’t have it–câline de bine!…tabarnouche… moutarde! Otherwise known as side swearing. Not a direct hit. One must learn to agir comme du monde. Act like “the people.”

Which brings up one’s manners to avoir un faim de loup or/ou boire comme un trou. Hungry as a wolf and drink like a hole. Idioms say who we are here, ici, icitte–that’s why. Language is perception, lost if the language is lost.

And this goes beyond the words in French for which there is no English: Voilà. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains.’

8 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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W i n t e r g u i d e 2016 83

Dining guiDe

EL RODEO M E X I C A N

R E S T A U R A N T

Authentic Mexican Restaurant & Bar Locally Owned and Family Operated

Daily Lunch & Happy Hour Specials Fresh Guacamole • Live Latin Music • Functions Catering • Delivery • Kids Eat Free on Sundays 147 WESTERN AVE., SOUTH PORTLAND • 773-8851 8 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Bayside american Café (formerly Bintliff’s) has been owned and run by Joe & Diane Catoggio since 2003. their craveable menu includes simple to decadently delicious items like house-made smoked salmon, corned beef hash, crab cakes, sandwiches, salads, Benedicts, and more. Come enjoy the food and drinks, and discover why customers love Bayside american Café.

Breakfast, brunch, and lunch are served daily starting at 7 am. 774-0005 . 98 Portland St., Portland, baysideamericancafe.com.

Brea lu Cafe has been serving up breakfast & lunch for 25 years! Favorite menu choices include 12 speciality omelettes, build-your-own breakfast burritos, Belgian waffles with fruit, eggs Benedict & homemade corned beef hash. enjoy a pint sized bloody mary, mimosa, or irish coffee while you feast on your favorite breakfast. open daily, 7am-2pm. 428 Forest ave., Portland, 772-9202.

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best italian Restaurant by market Surveys of america, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic italian, american, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 allen ave., 878-9511.

Bull Feeney’s authentic irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & irish whiskeys. live music five nights. open 7 days, 11:30am-1am. Kitchen closes at 10pm. 375 Fore St., old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com Crooners & Cocktails Dine in style surrounded by the sounds of Frank Sinatra and Dean martin at Portland’s only supper club throwback. enjoy a high energy atmosphere with traditional american cuisine, classic cocktails, and great music celebrating a classic era. We are open 6 days a week for dinner tues.-Sat. 4pm-1am and Sunday brunch 10am-4pm. 90 exchange St., Portland. 536-0469, croonersandcocktails.com diMillo’s January through march is loCalS’ SeaSon at Dimillo’s with fabulous winter dishes, happy hour from 4 to 7pm, monday thru Friday in our Port Side lounge with cozy fireplace, PlUS an extra hour of FRee PaRKing so you can check out shops and boutiques in the old Port. open every day at 11am, Commercial St., old Port, 772-2216.

El rodeo, an incredibly authentic mexican Restaurant and Bar, is locally-owned and family-operated at their convenient South Portland location. open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. tableside guacamole, sizzling fajitas, delicious margaritas, and live latin music are to be enjoyed. See Facebook for daily specials.

147 Western ave., South Portland, 773-8851 Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the middle of the old Port. the perfect spot for meetings, special occasions, and a cocktail. ingredients from maine’s waters and farms: jumbo scallops, natural, sustainable pork, beef, fish, and shellfish, and maine lobster. home to the annual ice Bar, eve’s garden is perfect for outdoor dining in season. happy hour mon. - Fri.; free valet

RestauRant RestauRant Review Review Diane DianeHudson Hudson

parking. lunch 11:30am-2pm, Dinner 5-9:30pm. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com Great lost Bear a full bar with 70 beer taps of maine & american craft breweries & a large Belgian selection. menu features salads, burgers, a large vegetarian selection & the best nachos & Buffalo wings in town.

Discover where the natives go when they’re restless! every day 11:30am-11:30pm. 540 Forest ave., in the Woodfords area of Portland, 772-0300, greatlostbear.com Kon asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is upscale asian with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, thai, Chinese–or try our hibachi tables. our private party room accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items and enjoy our entertaining chefs preparing your meal in front of you. Family friendly; open mon.-thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri. to 11pm, Sat. 1pm-11:00pm, Sun. 11:30am9:30pm. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com Maria’s ristorante is Portland’s original classic italian Restaurant. greg and tony napolitano are always in house preparing classics like zuppa de Pesce, eggplant Parmigian, grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio gelato, limoncello Cake, and maine’s Best meatballs. Prices $11.95 $22.95. tue.-Sat. starting at 5pm. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland ave.

772-9232, www.mariasrestaurant.com pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored mexican and latino food. offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. open daily, 12pm-10pm. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com pier 77 & the ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of Cape Porpoise harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. open year-round. 77 Pier Rd., Kennebunkport, 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com * *reservations recommended

Diane HuDson

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

La Dolce Bayside Refined Italian classics return to the revitalized downtown end of Washington Avenue.

R

oustabout, in the heart of Portland’s burgeoning East End gentrification, is pretty much at capacity on our arrival on a weeknight at 7 p.m.

Seated, we marvel at the huge former Nissen Bakery–now a modern mix of silver and gold, with soaring white and gray walls, supported by proudly exposed steel I-beams, surmounted by all the things that used to be hidden: air ducts, plumbing, and electrical fixtures.

It’s loud and joyful here. We order an Old Fashioned, Frisco Style ($10)–rye, benedictine, and barrel bitters–selected from a cocktail list that runs from the classic Negroni ($9) to the East Bayside cocktail (vodka, fresh herbs, bubbles, $11).

The menu at first seems like a time warp: Caesar salad, spaghetti bolognese, chicken fra diavolo, minestrone, garlic bread. Our

server explains that Roustabout’s gnocchi is Roman and therefore not what we may be expecting. Sure enough, a pair of four-inch squares of baked semolina (not little potato pillows) arrives, crisped and brushed with marinara and topped with fresh parsley, the culinary find of the night. And at $8, it will be a repeat performance.

Fritto Misto ($13), billed as an appetizer, is a heaping plate full of goodness. Octopus, calamari, mussels, and veggies are fried to golden brown in a light batter and accompanied by smoked-pepper aioli with just the right kick.

We’re drawn to Smoked Baby Backs ($20). Falling off the bones, the flavorful meat is infused with a smoky richness that carries over into the accompanying rigatoni.

We’ll return for the tiramisu ($10) made with “cold brew and Allen’s.” Happy hour runs from 4 to 6 p.m. (and 10 to midnight) with $3 beers, $5 cocktails, wines, and endearing surprises such as chicken liver mousse ($4) and house ricotta ($4). n Roustabout, 59 Washington Ave., Portland Open Tues.Fri., 11:30 p.m.-12 a.m., Sat.-Sun., 5 p.m.-12 a.m. with brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 536-4008 or roustabout.me W i n t e R g U i D e 2016 85

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House of tHe MontH Colin W. Sargent

Fassett Jewel photos by peter G. Morneau

H

An artist’s residence is a show-stopper on Pine Street.

alf of the pinnacle of Portland High Empire is for sale for $1.2M at 119 Pine Street. This West End residence, designed in 1876 by renowned architect Francis H. Fassett (1823-1908), purchased in 2011 for a bargain-basement $555,000 by Katharine Carey and her husband, artist Charlie Hewitt, who dreamed up the Urban Rattle. (See story, page 77.)

The façade boasts a distinctive hauteur, with a central pitched tower crowned like a gothic château. Granite posts are topped by a motif that’s echoed on the newels of the grand staircase in the front hall.

Inside, everything is big and bold and bright, while honoring the Victorian interiors. Fragments of original trompe-l’oeil mu-

rals above two of the four fireplaces have been rescued. In the entertainment rooms, travel back in time to 1876–channel Bell’s telephone; Ibsen’s Peer Gynt; Twain’s Tom Sawyer–surrounded by glowing floors, tiled fireplaces, and luscious woodwork. There’s even a music room for Tchaikovsky’s The Seasons; the three-season porch floods the first floor with light.

Fast-forward to 2016. The second-floor master suite with huge windows is a centerpiece of the Hewitts’ renovations. The interior is a Hewitt installation, pops of contemporary color leaping across time, his deft edits fully realized. As visitors face the façade from Pine Street, the part of the building for sale is the left half, give or take a few ingenious divisions

to help the structure make enviable sense.

Included are two one-bedroom apartments and a studio apartment to help cover expenses. Altogether, it’s 5,981 square feet, 4,200 of that given over to the owner’s dwelling front to back, with parking for four cars.

Listing agent Ed Gardner of Ocean Gate Realty also guided Carey and Hewitt when they purchased this home from a bank following foreclosure. The City of Portland records a prior sale for $1.25M in 2002, for the entire building. The city presently values the left side at $581,800, with taxes at $12,003. n Other Fassett gems: The base of the Longfellow statue; the Maine General Hospital center of Maine Medical; the Baxter Library building, now headquarters for Via. W i n t e r g u i d e 2016 87

New eNglaNd Homes & living

THE HATCHER GROUP KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY

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Falmouth Stunning Contemporary 4 BR, 2 Full BA, 1 Half BA $529,000

Portland West End Townhouse 4 BR, 3 Full BA, 1 Half BA $742,900

John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

8 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

New eNglaNd Homes & living

POPLAR KNOLL 3+BR home high REDINGTON NORTH 4BR/3BA home KINGFIELD Updated 4BR Antique Cape on the knoll. Convenient to snowmobile with large great room, loft, & gas fireplace. on 18 Acres. 1500’ of river frontage, 2 trails. Minutes to Sugarloaf! | $310,000 Bigelow Mountain views! | $314,900 ponds, extensive barns & fields. | $349,900

RANGELEY Fully renovated 3BR EMBDEN All Seasons Lake Lodge! BELGRADE 3BR lake home, PLUS year Townhouse. Convenient to the lake, 4BR/3BA, commercial kitchen, & large round 2BR guest apartment. Great for snowmobiling, & skiing. | $179,900 garage for snowmobiles. | $489,000 skiers, snowmobilers/boaters. | $479,000

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Winterguide 2016 89

New eNglaNd Homes & living

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This attractive Meadowbrook home lives large!

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9 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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New eNglaNd Homes & living

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119 Pine Street, Portland

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Colin W. Sargent

R

affi left more than Rom e behind. Snipped by a bishop as a boy, he is bundled off to America when the Church takes shame Forbidden to use his . voice, he explores oth er gifts that steal him into the society of Boston’s gangsters, necromancers, and crew surrounding the the wild poet Amy Lowell as he searches for a gen love song. What E. uine L. Doctorow’s Ra gtim e did for New York, The Boston Castrato does for 1920s Bosto n.

In exuberant and yet precise prose, Colin Sargent conjures a sweeping tale of lov e, murder, and rev enge.

- Ch ris tin a Bak er kli ne , #1 Ne w Yor k Tim es Bes tse lli ng au th or of or ph aN Tra iN.

Wicked shards of humor and sophis ticated, astonishing word play reminiscen t of James Joyce’s Ulysses make up the heart of this incand escent novel by Co lin Sargent. A rare book, one that wil l settle into the sou l for a lifetime.

- Mo rg an Cal lan ro ge rs, au th or , red rub Y he arT iN a Col d blu e sea

From Barbican Press of London and Hull Available For Pre-Order From Amazon.co.uk £9.99 / $17.95

www.BarbicanPress.com

Cover design : www.rawshock.co .uk

Colin W. sargent (www.colinwsargent.c om)

ISBN 978-1-9099

54-20-5

9 781909 95 4205

Fiction By Joan Connor

Island Universe

from top: Emma raE todd; filE photo

*

e sit and drink, two good friends, in our forties now.

We usually drink on Fridays after my husband has left our summer cottage on the island to take the ferry to the bus to the car to drive back to D.C. Diana is my best friend on the island. On an island, you need a best friend. You need a best friend because islands are isolated and claustrophobic–difficult to get off, and everyone is in your business.

I drink wine, white, pinot grigio. Diana drinks gin. Neat.

“Do you miss him when he leaves?” Diana asks.

“He is a good husband,” I say, “but he’s dull.”

“Dull?” Diana asks and quaffs a shot.

Dull? He is a tidal bore. But I do not say this. My in-laws also have a summer home on the island. Diana knows them. Well. She is a year-round resident and knows every*island universe is a reference to Kant’s theory of galaxies.

body and everybody’s story. That’s island.

“Yes, a little dull.”

Diana gets up from her Mission chair and pours herself another gin. Her cottage retains the early details from when it was first built in the twenties, the Arts and Crafts woodwork and the later Deco cabinet pulls. Change is slow on an island; people tend to make do.

She sloshes some gin on her denim sleeve and laughs. “Were you attracted to Neil right away?”

“Attracted? No, he looks like a cupboard.” I laugh. He does, actually. He is rectilinear like a refrigerator box with feet. Solid, though.

She nestles back down in her Mission chair. “Did you ever have a major crush?” She smirks as she asks this, a little coquettish.

“In high school, maybe.

There was this kid who shaved his head. We thought he was

cool, but he was just bald.”

Diana snorts gin and wipes her mouth on her cuff, widens her eyes at me.

I realize I am supposed to ask her the same question. “You, did you ever have a mega crush?”

“Lillian,” she says, “my psychology teacher.”

Diana is gay–which we established the first summer we became friends after she tripped over her pronouns for an hour.

“What happened?”

“Nothing. I graduated. She and her son moved to California, I heard.”

I nod and sip my wine. “She had a son.”

“Single mother, divorced.” She slugs some gin, then asks, “Are you close to your in-laws?”

They live four houses up Foreside Road. Too close. But again I do not say this. “Close enough.”

“Salt of the earth,” Diana says.

Salt clogs your arteries. I do not say this, either.

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his is how we spend Friday nights. We drink. We talk. Sometimes we sing.

Diana favors old Judy Garland songs.

Sometimes we do not sing, and sometimes the talk is desultory like the movement of stars.

Sometimes we are silent. Silence on an island is different from silence in other places. Not total silence–the elegies of foghorns. The bong of a rolling bell buoy. The shuck shuck of tides mucking over mud flats and rarely, very rarely, a passing car, some old heap with shot pistons chugging past.

Diana says, “Let’s sit out on the deck.”

And we do, in Diana’s Adirondack chairs.

They have broad arms, perfect for holding drinks. By daylight they are covered with rings overlapping, rings within rings. But it is dark now. Stars winkle. The light sifts like halfhearted snow. Diana is half humming, half singing. A-tisket, a-tasket, A green and yellow basket. As if to herself.

A sidereal solitariness.

“Color Me Barbra,” she says.

“Just don’t color me late to dinner?” I ask.

She tilts her head back, staring straight up into the sparkling sky. “Did you ever want to be famous?” she asks. “I mean really famous.”

“I used to paint a little bit. But I didn’t have any expectations. I was about as effective as a comb-over on a kite.”

Diana doesn’t laugh. She says, “Big famous, like Barbra Streisand famous.”

I spill some wine on the front of my shirt.

“No, not really.”

“I did. I got close once. Once The New Yorker almost took a poem of mine. I got a personal letter. I framed it. I haven’t seen it in years.”

She bolts from her chair, a sudden bustle like cats when they try to spook you, like cats when they are on an important mission–Step aside, man. I am a busy, busy cat.

Catnippy cats.

“I am going to find it right now. Let’s open it up.”

“Like a time capsule?”

“Why not?” She flips on the porch light as she goes inside the cottage.

Diana returns with a frame and aims the glass at me. It’s an old photo of Streisand, 1960s or early seventies. She has a sock monkey mouth and red carpet hair, what used to pass for glamour. Too much red lipstick and an updo.

Diana flips the frame over and peels back

Imagine a Dreiser novel starring Portland. the brown paper as if she were opening a gift. She squints at the poem fixed to the back by imperfect light.

She reads, “B is for the beauty of your voice.

A is April, your birth month. R is how really rare you are.” On the second B, her shoulders start shuddering. “B is Broadway doesn’t deserve you. R is for Rosen, your mother’s maiden name. A is amazing; that you are.” She repeats, “That you are,” choking now as she readies for the finale, the big flourish.

“Barbra,” she says, “with a B.” “What else would it be with?” I ask. “Barbra with a Z? Hey, Zarbra.”

But I cannot get very far; we are both laughing. Laughing hard.

Diana stammers her way through the rejection letter: Thank you for sending us your poem. Although we cannot publish it, we want to encourage young writers. Keep trying.

“Keep trying,” Diana says. Then, “Damn.

In my memory it was really good.”

And I am still laughing, and she is still laughing. But she is crying, too. erhaps Diana never should have peeled that paper back. That was over ten years ago. I no longer spend summers on the island. I left the cupboard husband. I followed a job to the Midwest. For a while, Diana and I stayed in touch. Latenight phone calls, the sound of ice clinking in a glass. Gradually the spaces between calls lengthened. Satellite calls, intermittent.

No less love, just less and less to say.

Feint of heart.

I wrote a letter to my love and on the way I dropped it.

Maybe stellar movement is not random. Maybe stars have intent. Maybe it is only the earth’s rotation, prestidigitation.

It gives the illusion of motion. Proper motion. Radial Motion.

Or all arbitrary. Barbara Streisand dropped the A from her name. Arbitrary. It could have been the first R. Babara. Or second B–Barara. She suffered agonizing stage fright.

Rare, beautiful, amazing. Still she suffered.

Our sad and solitary but somehow sublime spirals.

We twirl and swirl, island universes all. n

P

“Remarkable” –amazon.com It’s 1959 in the Forest City.

What would you do for $10,000?

The Book of Squirrels by Stephen Johnson is “A rich chronicle of guilt, fate, and longing but, above all, the psychological and moral complexities of self-revelation.”

Available for purchase at Amazon.com

Joan Connor is a professor at Ohio University and a former professor at USM’s Stonecoast MFA program.

Her short story collection, History Lessons, won an AWP award and a Pushcart Prize. She lives in Athens, Ohio, and Belmont, Vermont.

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Greenhut Gallery annual holiDay Show 1. Marilyn Miller, ellen Chase, bridget Chase 2. Joel babb, George lloyd 3. Peyton Smith, Patrick walsh

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Refresh your confidence

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