Portland Monthly Magazine Winterguide 2017

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Ben Mankiewicz on Maine in Fil m | Valentino at th e expo

MONTHLY

Heart Out Eat Your

Food News

& Events for

2017

Winterguide 2017 Vol. 31 NO. 10 $5.95

w w w. p o rt l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m Maine’s city magazine

Hitched Nice Day for a #Wedding


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FIND YOUR

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Colonial Charm, Family Run - Est. 1870-

Retired Maine farm situated on seven country acres renovated to host long wedding weekends. You’ll be treated like family as we aim to provide a truly personable experience and an affordable venue for your family and guests to gather and celebrate your LOVE. What We Offer: • Colonial Farmhouse that sleeps 10 • Neighboring Gambrel home that sleeps 8 • 40’ x 50’ Rustic Barn with Bar and Farmhouse tables and vintage chairs • Wooded, private Ceremony Sanctuary with white Arbor and benches • Lawn with Fire Pit, Repurposed Hay-conveyor Bar, space for lawn games • Bar Service • Day of Coordination • Notary Service • Nearby Newly-Restored Chapel

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New Gloucester, Maine • CoolidgeFamilyFarm.com • 207-671-7479 • facebook.com/coolidgefarm


C i t y

M a g a z i n e

cover photo: Zack Bowen - Knack Factory. clockwise from left: Petite Jacqueline - Jeff roberts; www.amazingdjmusic.com; Nick Lambert - Sunday RiveR

TM

67 15

33 Maine Life

13 Maine Classics 15 Winterguide Experience & Ski Guide 25 Chowder

Personalities

51 Dreamboat at the Expo The charismatic star of the silver screen and his explosive visit to crown Miss Maine at the Expo in 1927. By Herb Adams

Shelter&Design 85 House of the Month

A petite Greek Revival restoration project on Munjoy Hill brings you close to the action. By Colin W. Sargent

Food&Drink

27 Portland After Dark:

“How To Be Single in Portland” Don’t envy the couples at home on the couch together. The city is for singles in search of a good time. By Karen Hofreiter Special: Includes an interview with Ben Mankiewicz. By Colin W. Sargent

33 A Gastronome’s Guide to Planet Maine

Cancel your diet–the coming year promises fantastic food trends, dynamic new chefs, and exciting eateries galore. Stories by Sarah Moore, Bailey O’Brien, Kate Odden, and Willis Kuelthau; Calendar by Jeanee Dudley

55 Everyday Sommelier

“Better Together”–The best wine blends of the new year. By Ralph Hersom

62 Dining Guide 63 Restaurant Review

The cozy dining room at Caiola’s proves ripe for romance. By Diane Hudson

Perspectives 8 From the Editor 10 Letters

59 L’Esprit de l’Escalier

“A Queen in Wooden Shoes” By Rhea Côté Robbins

Art&Style

Special Advertising Section

66 Maine Wedding Guide 67 Wedding Zen

Something borrowed, something blue, something in your budget? Pull off the Maine wedding you can afford with our guide to modern wedding expectations. By Olivia Gunn

93 Fiction

“Why I Hate the Promenade”

We’ve broken up. But, see, we’ve already paid in advance for dance lessons… By Doug Bost

96 Flash

88 New England Homes & Living Cover: Trevor Tozier presents a “Dirty Dirty Martini,” featuring oyster brine, at Eventide Oyster Co. Photo by Zack Bowen.

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Winterguide

M a i n e ’ s


Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Wharf Street, Winter, 1986 24" x 36" Oil Morning on canvas, Monhegan Paul Black by Paul Black 11 x 14 oil

Featuring original works of fine art,

Featuring original of fine art, photography and works limited-edition prints by regional local artists. photography andand limited-edition prints by regional and local artists. 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 372 Fore Street (207) 874-8084 Portland, Maine 04101 www.forestreetgallery.com

(207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com

HOW PORTLAND DOES A BOOKSTORE

THE PLACE FOR NEW & USED BOOKS ON THE PENINSULA Plus Cards, Journals, Gifts & Portland’s Largest Selection of Magazines

Monument Square, Portland 207-772-4045 www.longfellowbooks.com 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Seeing the Seen A

selenologist studies the moon. An ontologist is fascinated with being and nothingness. I met a pharographer once. He came from 7,000 miles away to document Maine’s lighthouses. Most extraordinarily, I’ve met him three times. His name is Fujio Mino. When he sent two gifts to our office last month (a calendar he’d shot and sparkling candies in the shape of a fish), we published his accompanying letter and I added the following tag, though I usually opt for understatement in an editor’s note: “Pharographer Fujio Mino captures stunning photographic images of lighthouses across the world, many in Maine. He first visited our office in the 1980s, with his star rising in the art world. A decade later, he visited us again. In 1994, he sent us a postcard, followed by a visit in the 2000s, across dark oceans of time and distance. To see his extraordinary work, recognized by Fuji film for excellence, visit pharographer.com.” Maine has an embarrassment of riches with our lighthouses. We take them for granted. It takes someone like Mino, shooting for viewers in Japan, hungry for the strangeness of our lighthouses, to wake us up to their mysteries. See Maine through his eyes: • Tenants Harbor ( ) • Pemaquid Point ( ) • Nubble Light, Cape Neddick ( ) • West Quoddy Head ( ) • Marshall Point ( ) Mino’s images are crisp, stopped in time. Confident in his talent, he isn’t afraid to let other elements of a photo steal the show. One of my favorites has a memorable lighthouse in the foreground, but it’s the ghostly freighter slipping out of view in the background that inspires. He “was born in Kagawa in 1963,” according to his site. “Graduated from Japan Journalism College (Editing Major). After years of working for an ‘ad-maker,’” he visited Yosemite, trailing after Ansel Adams. Stopping on the West Coast at a lighthouse hostel on the Pacific, he saw a poster of a Maine lighthouse and was hooked. At Portland Monthly, we value our friends who connect with us in person and by reading our pages over the years. Mino’s striking art deepens the value of seeing “ourselves as others see us”–Maine’s lighthouses in infinite recursion across a global culture. Mino leads international “tours to visit overseas lighthouses” across the Seven Seas, with our coast his sine qua non, the showstopper ( , pron.: shōsutoppā). The root of “pharographer” is Pharos, the name of the Lighthouse of Alexandria, Egypt, designed by Sostratus. Destroyed by an earthquake, it was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.


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Newsstand Cover Date: Winterguide 2016, published in December 2016, Vol. 31, No. 10, copyright 2016. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with news­stand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December. We are proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 65 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.

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letters editor@portlandmonthly.com

iNe Portl aNd magaz

P r ovo cat i v e Elixir FixErs:

m e ly w i N e s ew Brews • ti co c kta i l s • N

MONTHLY

Take Back the Night! decem ber 2016

Maine Book Binge Sarah Orne Jewett

9 Volum e 31, No.

Vol. 31 no. 9 $5.95 december 2016

Comes

Out

ne.com andmagazi w w w. p o rt l y magazine maine’s cit

Cover Star My mystery Cold Blood, Hot Sea is #9 in the stack on your cover [December 2016]. Thank you, Portland Magazine! Charlene D’Avanzo, Yarmouth

Local Flavor [In response to “Letter From the Editor,” December 2016] I love Maria’s Restaurant! Tony and Greg [Napolitano] are the best guys ever. Patricia Eltman, South Portland 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Suzy Drasnin

Matter of intrigue The November issue is great, especially the interview with Dinah Minot [see “10 Most Intriguing,” November 2016]. Mike McGrath, Portland



WINTER AT CLIFF HOUSE IT’S NOT JUST FOR SUMMER ANYMORE

ENJOY A WICKED WINTER ESCAPE AT THE NEW CLIFF HOUSE MAINE Open year-round for the first time in 144 years, raise your comfort level with a stay at Cliff House. Surround yourself with incomparable accommodations, locally-inspired cuisine and passionate service. Enjoy a broad array of activities including snowshoeing under the stars, indulging in the new spa above the cliffs, or just snuggling by the fireplace. Book a Wicked Winter Escape and enjoy rates from $199 per night including overnight valet parking.

cliffhousemaine.com · 207.361.1000 · Contact Your Travel Professional · 591 Shore Road, Cape Neddick, Maine 03902 Valid through 4/30/17 based on availability. Subject to change and not available to groups or with other special promotions.


Not Quite

Shipshape

The most expensive destroyer ever built for the Navy, the USS Zumwalt, made by Bath Iron Works at $4.4 billion, recently suffered a technical glitch on its maiden voyage to San Diego. “A team of engineers worked alongside the ship’s force on the repair effort, which required replacement of the lubrication oil coolers,” says Christianne M. Witten, public affairs specialist with the Navy. “The ship successfully departed Panama and arrived at her homeport to begin Post-Delivery Availability and Combat Systems Activation.” Two other destroyers are currently under construction at Bath Iron Works.

A Sign of the See you at the

from top: U.S. Navy; Courtesy Photos (2); Leah Brown; courtesy photo; brian bartlett; courtesy poland spring museums

Grammys

Joining the ranks of Beyoncé, Adele, and Drake at this year’s Grammy Awards will be Drew Taggart (right), a Freeport local who (along with bandmate Alex Pall of Westchester, New York) is nominated for two of the coveted golden gramophones. The DJ duo, known as The Chainsmokers, are up for best new artist and best dance recording. Taggart will be attending the event alongside fellow Mainer Bob Ludwig, the music mastering legend. Ludwig is pegged to receive his 12th Grammy for his work on Andrew Bird’s latest album, Are You Serious.

Creative Credentials

Poet, publisher, and owner of Gulf of Maine Books Gary Lawless has been awarded the 2017 Constance H. Carlson Public Humanities Prize from the Maine Humanities Council for his many creative contributions to Maine’s literary community. For Lawless, however, the win was a bolt from the blue. “I hadn’t even heard of the award when they first called to tell me. My first thought was, why me?” See “Intoxicating Tales” in our December issue for Gary’s Maine book recommendations for 2017.

Reger Dasco Properties, the developer behind the Newbury Street developments in the East End, announced it will buy Rufus Deering Lumberyard on Commerical Street, in business for 162 years. The 2.5-acre site is slated for transformation into luxury condominiums–a reflection of Portland’s booming property scene and escalating rental prices. In a rapidly changing landscape, many feel protective of Portland’s signature features. Developer Demetri Dasco remains adamant that development is not only positive, but essential. “We’re here long term. There’s little to no inventory on the market right now, and demand is strong,” Dasco told The Press Herald. Eldredge Lumber and Hardware has purchased much of the yard’s inventory. General manager Dan Remick says, “[Rufus Deering] was a fixture in Portland. It’s bittersweet to see it go.” Notice a similarity between the little clapboard house in Disney’s Up and Rufus Deering’s little clapboard headquarters?

To chicago & back

People who love Erik Larson’s novel Devil in the White City will love learning about the Maine State Building, which was in the White City (Chicago) as part of the 1893 Columbian Exposition. Made entirely from Maine materials by local craftsmen, the Maine State Building is one of the few remaining structures from the World’s Fair. The building was brought back to Maine on 16 custom railroad cars after the Ricker Family (who created Poland Spring Water) bought it for $30,000. You can find it off Route 26 beside the All Souls Chapel in South Poland. We can confirm that it was not the inspiration behind the “Murder Castle” so chillingly described in the novel. Leonardo DiCaprio is confirmed to star in the upcoming Martin Scorcese film.

winterguide 2017 13



WINTER GUIDE Sugarloaf Mountain is Maine’s second-highest peak, at 4,237 feet. Of course, skiing at Mount Katahdin (5,269 feet) is not permitted.

Events

Top: Sugarloaf; below: Nick Lambert, Sunday River

New England Ski Day at Shawnee Peak, Bridgton, Jan. 6. Show your New England driver’s license and ski all Friday til 10 p.m. for $29. 647-8444, shawneepeak.com Bar Harbor Winter Beer Fest, Bar Harbor, Jan. 14. Celebrate local craft beer and fine food, hosted by Atlantic Brewing Co. barharborinfo.com/event The Maine Event: Battle on Ice, Androscoggin Bank Colisée, Lewiston, Jan. 15-17. The Interna-

tional Fire, Police & Military Winter Games Committee’s annual hockey tournament. Proceeds benefit Shriners Hospital in Boston. ifpwg.com Rangeley Snodeo 2017, Rangeley, Jan. 21. Casino night, Radar run, live auctions, snowmobile parade, fireworks, and more. 864-5364, rangeleysnowmobile.com B-52 Commemorative Snowmobile Ride, Greenville, Jan. 21. Ride to the wreckage site of the B-52 that crashed

into Elephant Mountain in 1963. Spaghetti luncheon at noon. mooseheadriders.com WinterKids Welcome to Winter Festival, Payson Park, Portland, Jan. 21. Sledding, snowshoeing, ice skating, hot chocolate, healthy snacks, prizes. 647-3472, winterkids.org Mushers Bowl, Bridgton, Jan. 21-22. Sled dog races, skijoring. 647-3472, desdc. org/mushers-bowl/ Auburn Winter Festival, Auburn, Jan. 27-29. Events include sledding, snowmobile rides, skiing, snowboarding, skating, ice sculptures, music, and a torchlight parade. 3336601, auburnmaine.gov

Fireworks displays will light up the sky at Sunday River, Jan. 14; Feb. 4; Feb. 18; and Feb. 23.

Moosehead Lake Region Snofest, Greenville. Annual Ice Fishing Derby, Jan. 27-29; Plum Creek

Wilderness Sled Dog Race, Feb. 4; Annual Chocolate Festival, Feb. 19; Chili/ Chowder Cookoff, Feb. 17. 695-2702, mooseheadlake.org Maine Winter Special Olympics, Sugarloaf, Jan. 29-30. Now in its 48th year, Sugarloaf hosts the athletes and families, csugarloaf.com The Great Maine Outdoor Weekend, multiple locations, Feb. 3-6. Events all over the state celebrate Maine’s natural resources with outdoor activities. greatmaineoutdoorweekend.com Camden WinterFest 2017, Camden, Feb. 4-12. Call it “Maine’s Mardi Gras.” Community ice carving, snow sculpting, ski, snowboard competitions, bonfire, live music and dance, concerts, CamJam, and fireworks. WinterFest concludes with the Toboggan Nationals. 236-3440,

camden.lib.me.us/news. Plum Creek 100 Mile Wilderness Sled Dog Race, Feb. 4. Starts at Leisure Life Resort, Greenville. 100-mile and 30-mile sled dog races promoting education, safety, animal welfare and good sportsmanship. 100milewildernessrace.org U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden Snow bowl, Camden. Spirited competition, food and outdoor fun, Feb. 10-12. 236-3438 camdensnowbowl.com Greater Bridgton Lakes Region Winter Carnival, multiple locations, Feb. 20. Kids’ snow sculpture, horse-drawn carriage rides, sled dog rides, skating, carnival games, and other outdoor activities. mainelakeswintercarnival.com Old Orchard Beach Winter Carnival, Old

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WINTER GUIDE

24th Annual Can-Am Crown International Sled Dog Races, Fort Kent, Mar. 7. The famous 250-mile race, a qualifier for the Iditarod and the Yukon Quest with a $29,000 purse; also 30-mi. and 60-mi. races; mushers and spectators from all over the world. can-am-crown.net Spring Fling at Shawnee Peak, Bridgton, Mar. 18. It’s an annual rite of spring: sunshine, the Slush Cup, and live music, with views of Mt. Washington in the distance. 647-8444, shawneepeak.com Maine Adaptive Sports and Ski-A-Thon, Mar. 25. Huge fund-raiser and fun for participants, volunteers, and supporters. sundayriver.com.

Ski Guide

Baker Mountain Ski Area, Moscow. 460' vertical drop, 5 trails, T-bar lift, night skiing, ski school. Non-profit and volunteerrun. 612-9200, skimaine.com

Bethel Inn Ski Touring Center, Bethel. Over 20 miles of trails for novice through advanced skiers. Snowshoe trails, rentals, lessons, ice-skating, and sleigh rides. 15 minutes from Sunday River. 824-6276, bethelinn.com Bigrock Mountain, Mars Hill. A 980' vertical drop, 35 trails, three chair lifts, handle tow, downhill and cross-country skiing, 65-percent snowmaking, night skiing, daily Snowschool lessons, 800' snow-tube park, expanded terrain park. 425-6711, bigrockmaine.com Birches Ski Touring Center, Rockwood. 11,000 acres of wildlands, 25 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, 30 miles of ungroomed trails. Snowshoeing, snowmobile trails, ice fishing, scenic plane rides, guided winter tours, and three yurts along trails for overnight stays. 800-8259453, birches.com Black Mountain, Rumford. A 1,380' vertical drop, 35 trails, two chair lifts, T-bar lift, two handle tows, $15-$25 lift tickets, night skiing, cross-country skiing, 90 percent snow-making, tubing park, and 300' halfpipe. 364-8977, skiblackmountain.org

Sugarloaf Fat Tire Festival Feb. 11-12. Bike demos, guided rides, and more!

Camden Snow Bowl, Camden. An 850' vertical drop, 12 trails and glades, chairlift, two T-bar lifts, handle tow lift, 45-percent snowmaking, snow tubing, ice skating, full rental shop, 400' toboggan chute, 4k Nordic trail, snowshoing, night skiing, ski and snowboard school, two terrain parks with over 30 elements. 236-3438, camdensnowbowl.com Carter’s X-C Ski Centers and Shop, Oxford & Bethel. 25 miles of trails in Oxford; 35 miles of trails in Bethel. Beginner to advanced trails. Snowshoeing, trail-side lodging, snack bar, warming huts. Beautiful views of mountain ranges and rivers. 5394848 (Oxford); 824-3880 (Bethel); cartersxcski.com

Five Fields Farm, Bridgton. With 16 miles of trails for all skill levels, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, warming hut, ski and snowshoe rentals, and ungroomed trails to the summit of Bald Pate Mountain. Dog-friendly, too. 6472425, fivefieldsski.com Fort Kent Mountain Outdoor Center, Fort Kent. Over 25 miles of cross-country trails for all skill levels, lodging, night skiing, biathlon facilities, and snowshoe trails. 8346203, 10thmtskiclub.org. Harris Farm X-C Ski Center, Dayton. With 25 miles of trails (18 miles groomed) for all skill levels, snowshoeing and sledding for non-skiers, warming hut, snackbar (weekends only). Dogs allowed on weekdays. Winter Kids passbook accepted, group discounts offered. 4992678, harrisfarm.com Hidden Valley Nature Center, Jefferson. Over 20 miles of lightly groomed trails, snowshoeing, rentals, warming huts, and overnight yurt rentals. Kids’ cross-country clinics on Saturdays, Jan. 3-Feb. 7. 200-8840, hvnc.org

Learn about cross country skiing, winter camping, and more at the Maine Outdoor Adventure Club’s (MOAC) annual meeting in Portland, Feb. 3. 1 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Hermon Mountain, Hermon. A 350' vertical drop, 20 trails for all skill levels, 100-percent snowmaking, ski and snowboard lessons, double chair, T-bar, handle tow, night skiing, a snack

bar, tubing park, terrain park. 848-5192, skihermonmountain.com Katahdin Nordic Center, Millinocket. A half-mile from downtown Millinocket and 17 miles from the entrance to Baxter State Park. 6 miles of groomed trails. Ski and snowshoe rentals available. 723-6305, visitmaine.com. Libby Hill Forest Trails, Gray. Eight miles of ski and snowshoe trails. Dogfriendly (narrow trails only). 657-2114, libbyhill.org Lonesome Pine Trails, Fort Kent. Maine’s nothernmost ski resort. Downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. A 500' vertical drop, 13 trails, night skiing, 60-percent snow-making, alpine and Nordic skiing on the Canadian border, grinding rail, and halfpipe. 834-5202, lonesomepines.org Lost Valley, Auburn. A 243' vertical drop, 15 trails, two double chair lifts, night skiing, cross-country skiing, terrain park for skiers and riders, 100-percent snowmaking, PSIA-certified Ski School. 784-1561, lostvalleyski.com Maine Adaptive Sports and Recreation, Newry. Free winter recreation for children and adults with physical disabilities at four of Maine’s finest ski resorts: alpine skiing and

from top: courtesy sugarloaf; courtesy moac

Orchard Beach, Feb. 2425. Activities include sleigh rides, sledding down Old Orchard Street, the infamous slippery slope pub crawl, kids’ games, music, and a human dog sled race. 281-2114, oob365.com


winterguide 2017 17


WINTER GUIDE

in’ Tub Buy kets Tic ine! Onl

Tyler Inman of Skylab Maine captures winter surfers at Higgins Beach.

snowboarding at Sunday River, Sugarloaf, and Saddleback; Nordic skiing and snowshoeing at Sunday River Inn and Cross-Country Ski Center and Pineland Farms. Summer programs also available. (800)-639-7770, maineadaptive.org

SEBAGO LAKE AREA 930 Roosevelt Trail (Route 302) Windham, Maine 04062 (207) 892-5952

SeacoastAdventure.com

RTER’S CA

Millinocket Municipal X-C Ski Areas, Millinocket. 20 miles of groomed trails offering views of Mt. Katahdin. The Northern Timber Cruisers Clubhouse offers cross-country ski trails with loops up to nine miles and a warming hut. 723-4329, northerntimbercruisers.com Mt. Abram, Greenwood. An 1,150' drop, 51 trails and glades. Two double and one T-bar, surface and carpet lift, 85-percent snowmaking, 550 acres, three terrain parks, and weekend community racing. Winterkids pass accepted. 875-5000, mtabram.com Mt. Jefferson, Lee. A 432' vertical drop, 12 trails, two T-bar lifts, handle tow, ski lessons, rentals, snackbar, views of Mt. Katahdin. 7382377, skimtjefferson.com Nordic Heritage Center, Presque Isle. With 12 miles of cross-country trails, 1.5 miles of lighted trails, night skiing, warming hut, paved roller ski loop, terrain park, lodge with sauna, and wax building. Trails free of charge. 7626972, nordicheritagecenter.org

Pineland Farms, New Gloucester. With 10 miles of Nordic skiing trails, ice skating, sledding, snowshoeing, and dry-land Nordic ski training in summer and fall. 688-6599, pinelandfarms.org Powderhouse Hill, South Berwick. A 150-ft. drop, three trails, one rope tow, night skiing. 384-5858, www.powderhousehill.com Quoggy Jo Ski Center, Presque Isle. A 215ft. drop, T-bar, five trails, natural half-pipe with grind rails, first-time skier area, and Nordic and biathlon center. 764-3248, www.skiquaggyjo.org Rangeley Lakes Trails Center, Rangeley. 20 miles of trails for cross-country skiing and showshoeing; rentals, food, and beverages at the lodge. 864-4309, xcskirangeley.com Seacoast Snow Park, Windham. A100' drop, carpet lift, 12 lanes of tubing, 100-percent snowmaking, night tubing, zip line, fire pit and snack bar. 892-5952, seacoastadventure.com Shawnee Peak, Bridgton. A 1,300' vertical drop, 46 trails and glades. One quad, three triple, and one surface lift. Night skiing, 98-percent snowmaking, two terrain parks, and views of Mt. Washington. 647-8444, shawneepeak.com

One of the Best Selections of Quality Cross-Country Equipment in the Northeast! Stay in our Bethel Lodge or cabins for your Outdoor Adventure!

Over 75K Groomed Trails Rentals & Lessons 786 Intervale Road, Bethel 824-3880 420 Main Street, Oxford 207-539-4848

www.cartersxcski.com 1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

The Jones Family Singers perform in collaboration with the NAACP to present Portland Ovations on Jan. 20.

from top: Tyler Inman - Skylab Maine; afropop worldwide

UBIN’ S NOW T FUN! WINTER


Smiling Hill Farm, Westbrook. Cross-country skiing on 15 miles of trails; snowshoeing, rentals, hot beverages, and snacks. 775-4818, smilinghill.com Spruce Mountain, Jay. A 300' vertical drop, 11 trails, night skiing, 3 rope tows, cross-country skiing, 50-percent snowmaking, Nordic trails, and ski classes for all ages. 897-4090, sprucemountain.org

Wher e Recyclin g has Always bee n in Style

Forget Me Nots

Sugarloaf, Carrabassett Valley. A 2,820' vertical drop, 161 trails and glades. Five quad (two high-speed), six double, two surface, and one triple lift, with 95-percent snowmaking, superpipe, three terrain parks, tubing park, cross-country skiing, zip lines, gym, and antigravity complex with skate park and trampolines. 237-2000, sugarloaf.com Sunday River, Bethel. A 2,340' vertical drop, 135 trails and glades. One high-speed chondola, nine quads (four high-speed); three triple, one double, and one surface lift. With 95-percent snowmaking, night skiing, ice skating, lodges, five terrain parks, superpipe, and mini-pipe. 824-3000, sundayriver.com Titcomb Mountain, West Farmington. A 340' drop, 16 alpine trails, two T-bar lifts and one handle tow, night skiing, 70-percent snowmaking, terrain park, and 10 miles of groomed cross-country trails. 778-9031, titcombmountain.com

–We are grateful to Ski Maine for assisting with information. Visit skimaine.com for updates.

Now located at The Shops at Falmouth Village, 240 U.S. Route 1

Now accepting seasonal clothing and accessories

forgetmenotsfalmouth.com

Theater

Children’s Museum & Theater of Maine, 142 Free St. Stage stories, daily; Invention Month through Jan. 31; Famous Inventions Scavenger Hunt, daily through Jan. 31. 828-1234 kitetails.org Good Theater, St. Lawrence Arts Center 76 Congress St., Portland. Love Letters, Jan. 4-Feb. 25; The May Queen, Jan. 25-Feb. 26. -885-5883. goodtheater.com Maine State Ballet Theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. Tap, Tap, Jazz, Jan. 14 & 21; Swan Lake, Mar. 24- Apr. 9. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org Portland Stage Company, 25 Forest Ave. Play Me A Story, every Saturday; Arsenic and Old Lace, Jan. 24-Feb. 4774-0645 portlandstage.org Public Theater, 31 Maple St., Lewiston. Under The Skin, Jan. 27-29 & Feb. 2-5. 782-3200 thepublictheatre.org

Galleries

Center for Maine Contemporary Arts, 21 Winter Street, Rockland. 2016 Biennial, through Feb. 5. 701-5005 mcanow.org Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St. PHANTOM PUNCH: Contemporary Art from Saudi Arabia in Lewiston, Maine, through Mar. 2017; Rona Pondick and Robert Feintuch: Heads, Hands, Feet; Sleeping, Holding, Dreaming, Dying, through Mar. 2017. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum winterguide 2017 19


Experience Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Art and Resolution, 1900 to Today, Apr. 16; Robert Frank: Sideways, through Jan. 29; Nineteenth Century Art and Artifacts, through Jun. 4. 725-3275 bowdoin. edu/art-museum

Umphrey’s McGee gets ready to dazzle State Theatre on Jan.27.

Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. A Usable Past: American Folk Art at the Colby College Museum of Art, through Jan. 8; In the Studio: Picasso’s Vollard Suite, through Feb. 8; Rivane Neuenschwander: Zé Carioca e Amigos (Zé Carioca contra o goleiro Gastão), through Mar. 18; 859-5600 colby.edu

First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Jan. 6, Feb. 3, Mar. 3. artwalkmaine.org

Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St, Portland. January Group Show, Jan. 5-28. Abstraction Invitational, Feb. 2-25.greenhutgalleries.me Maine College of Art,522 Congress St., Portland. Anguish curated by Cynthia Norse, through Jan. 14. meca.edu/events Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. Library Tour, Jan. 4; Designing Acadia: Maine’s National Park Experience, through Jan. 14, 2017; 774-1822

mainehistory.org Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. ; Over East, an Artist’s Journal: Paintings by Robert Beck of the Contemporary Maritime Community, through Jan. 2017; Sea Change: Portland on the Edge of the New North, through Jan. 2017; Open Shop, Jan. 9,16,23 & 30. 443-1316 mainemaritimemuseum.org Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland. First Friday Artwalk, Jan. 6, Feb. 3 mainejewishmuseum.org

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. The Mistress and the Muse, Feb. 3-June 4; The Thrill of the Chase, Feb. 3-Apr. 3. 3-775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

Music

Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, Every Tues.; Irish Music Night; Comedy Night, every Mon.; The Evan King Group, Jan. 6; El Malo, Jan. 13; Sarah Fard, Jan. 21; Sassquatch, Jan. 27. 117 774-4111. portcityblue.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland. Disney On Ice, Jan. 5-8; 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com

Spectacle in

the Skies

We can’t help looking forward to summer, especially with the news that the Blue Angels, the Navy’s elite flying squad, will headline the Great State of Maine Air Show in Brunswick in 2017. The Blue Angels are known for their feats of precision flying and their iconic blue and gold F-18 Hornet aircrafts. greatstateofmaineairshow.us

2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Trivia Night, every Tues.; Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey and guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun.; TriviYeah!, every Mon.; Rhythm & Tues, every Tues.; Clash of the Titans, every Wed.;

see website for more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. JCT Trio, Jan. 22; Vocalosity, Jan. 26; Outer Space Symphony, Jan. 30. 8420800 porttix.com One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland. The Gibson Brothers, Jan. 20; Davy Knowles, Jan. 21; SUSTO, Jan. 26. onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. 956-6000. Marc Broussard, Jan. 19; The Infamous Stringdusters, Jan. 20; An Evening with Tom Chaplin, Jan. 21; Maggie Rogers, Jan. 24; John Brown’s Body, Jan. 27. portcitymusichall.com Portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 Temple St., Portland. TRVP Nite, every Sun.; Funky Mondays, every Mon; Wednesday Happy Hour with The Working Dead, Afro Beat Music Night, every Weds. Live Music Mon. through Sat.; Built to Last, A Grateful Dead Experience, Jan. 11; Paper Lions, Jan. 12; Eric Krasno Band / Marcus King Band, Jan. 24. 805-0134 portlandhouseofmusic.com

from top: abby fox; blue angels; courtesy photo

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. About Buildings, through Jan. 2017; Andrew Wyeth: Maine Temperas and Watercolors, through Mar. 5; Andrew Wyeth: The Dory, Mar. 17; American Treasures From the Farnsworth, through Oct. 2017; Celebrating Maine, through Oct. 2017. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org


Portland Symphony Orchestra, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Chopin’s Second Piano Concerto, Jan. 15.18842-0800 porttix.com Portland Ovations, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. The Jones Family Singers, Jan. 20. 842-0800 porttix.com Space Gallery, 538 Congress Street, Portland. SINKANE, Feb. 15. 828-5600 space538.org State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. Umphrey’s McGee, Jan. 27; The Wood Brothers, Feb. 4; Switchfoot & Relient K – Looking For America Tour Part II, Feb. 11. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Ricky Skaggs & Kentucky Thunder, Jan. 15; Los Lobos, Jan. 27; Tricky Britches, Feb. 3. 935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com

New Year’s Special Now–January 31st | Five classes for $50

Coming Up: Shamanism 101 An abstract workshop. Sunday January 15th 1-3:30 $25

portland’s Newest downtown Studio A sanctuary in the heart of Portland

ocean Gate plaza, 511 Congress Street (off the lobby) Free parking behind building early am, after 5 pm, and weekends and convenient meters on Casco Street more info at:

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R E A DY, S E T, W I N T E R .

Catch Los Lobos at Stone Mountain Arts Center January 27.

Sugarloaf, The Rack BBQ, 5092 Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley. Lauren Crosby & Lindsey Mower, Jan. 5, Will & Luke Mallett with Andrew Martelle, Jan. 12; Jeff Kilton, Jan. 17; Jon King Trio, Jan. 27; Carmen & The Detour Project, Jan. 29. 800-THE-LOAF sugarloaf.com Waterville Opera House, 93 Main St. 3rd Flr., Waterville. Nabucco, Jan. 7; L’Amour de Loin, Jan. 14; Roméo et Juliette, Jan. 21. 873-7000 operahouse.org

The Wood Brothers will jam at State Theatre on Feb. 4.

D I N O I N T E R N AT I O N A L F U R S Full Service Retailer & Complete Furrier Service DinoFurs.com • 207-772-1344 343 Gorham Road South Portland, ME Across from the Maine Mall

winterguide 2017 21


Experience

Don’t Miss

Lincolns, 36 Market St., Portland. Laugh Shack comedy every Thursday. facebook.com/ thelaughshack

Cupid’s Night Circus,Thompson’s Point, Portland. Cocktails, live music, and circus performances, Feb. 17-19th. circusmaine.com

Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun. see website for more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com

Banff Mountain Film Festival; multiple locations. Screening some of the year’s most extreme outdoor footage, February–see website for upcoming dates. banffcentre.ca

Film

Waterville Opera House, 93 Main St., Malcolm X, Jan. 16. 873-7000 operahouse.org Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. Screening of Don’t Blink by Robert Frank. 3-775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

Great Gatsby Weekend at Mount Washington Hotel, 310 Mount Washington Hotel Rd., Bretton Woods, two nights lodging at Mount Washington Resort and two days skilling in Bretton Woods. Enjoy Prohibition themed festivities at this iconic hotel, Jan. 6-8. mtwashingtonvalley.org/events Down East Mushers Bowl, Bridgton. Sled

dog races and skijoring accompanied by warmup food and drinks, Jan. 21-22. downeastmushersbowl.com Portland Pottery Annual Holiday Show & Sale, Pottery and other great arts and crafts by 80 local Maine artists., Jan. 16-18. portlandpottery.com Sunaana, Brick South at Thompson’s Point. This two-day affair will be a special blend of music, craft beer, spirits, food, art, and other mindpopping exhibits all fused together to deliver a sensory experience, Mar 3-4. whatissuaana.com

–Compiled by Sarah Moore To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/ portmag/submit-an-event/

The Ballroom Thieves return to Maine with two shows: Camden Opera House Jan. 28 and Port City Music Hall Feb. 2.

Hinckley Introductions is a boutique agency, based in New England, that specializes in networking singles 40 and up.

I look forward to helping you navigate your way to a great relationship!

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2 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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Comedy


GREENHUT GALLERIES Since 1977

Celebrating our 40th anniversary year.

David Driskell

Robert Hamilton

Fine Contemporary Maine Art

146 Middle St. Portland, ME 04101 • 207-772-2693 • info@greenhutgalleries.com • www.greenhutgalleries.com

Cupid’s Night Circus

February 17th & 18th Doors: 6:15PM Show: 7PM February 19th Doors: 3:15PM Show: 4PM

Photo by Casey Jacques

4 Thompson’s Point, Portland 536.0768 Local & International Circus Performance Cocktails ♦ Live Music ♦ Food Truck

$14 ADVANCE ♦ $16 DOOR ♦ $12 YOUTH ♦ CIRCUSMAINE.ORG winterguide 2017 23



from top: crash boom bang; staff; photos of leo rabkin works, courtesy The dorothea and leo rabkin Foundation

Bruce Tanner of Plymouth, Ohio, chose Portland as the starting point for an almost 800-mile trek in the “pursuit of positivity.” The 39-year-old gym owner crossed six states relying solely on the kindness of strangers (he took no money with him) in his Siddhartha-like exploration of love and luck. “I just don’t think the world’s that bad. I’m just gonna prove that people are good,” he states on his Facebook page. Tanner completed his trek in late November 2016. Why Portland? “Maine was pretty in the fall.” More difficult: Why Ohio?

And Who Said Romance Was Dead? The“Missed Connections” section of Craigslist is an unsung service to all secret admirers and stifled romantics out there. While some of the posts are less salubrious in nature, among them are genuine love notes that capture a fleeting moment between strangers.

Portland Gastroenterology Center, Tuesday morning (w4m): “I was leaving Portland Gastro and you were checking in. You were super handsome with a nice beard. We made eye contact and smiled at each other. You have a lovely smile. I hope you had a nice day.”

Hannaford, Wednesday evening (m4m): “Handsome guy in the produce aisle: We made eye contact, and there was something about it. I saw you again near the deli. You were wearing black. Hit me back if my feeling was right…”

Redhead at the Apple Store (m4w): “You were there with someone, but I smiled at you, and you smiled right back with those pretty eyes. Was there something there? It seemed like there was. Even if you’re with someone, shoot me a note. You seem like my kind of person.”

From the minds of the Maine production company CrashBoomBang Media comes a series of musical performance videos by Portland artists. Cocreator Joel Messer says, “We wanted to connect with local musicians, so we started CrashBoomBasement” in the home of a crewmember. “What better way to capture your favorite musicians than inviting them over for a beer and to play some rock ‘n’ roll?” So far, contributing artists include Tall Horse’s Nick Poulin, Jeff Beam, and Kate Beever. The set is made of discarded analog televisions and radios, giving it a retro, funky feel. Looking to tune in? Visit crashboombangmedia.com.

Road Shaming

According to insurance company Quote Wizard, Maine drivers are the fourth worst drivers in the country. The organization compared two million data points from its website against state highway fatality rates to determine those with the most wayward driving habits in the country. Turns out, the whole time we’ve been cursing snow birds from Florida (ranked No. 48) on our roads, we may have been the guilty party.

Art in Residence The former site of The Museum of African Art and Culture on Brown Street will soon become headquarters of The Dorothea and Leo Rabkin Foundation, created to support journalism in the arts and to showcase sculpture and paintings from the late creative couple from New York. Abstract sculptor Leo exhibited his work at MoMA and The Met in New York and served as President of American Abstract Artists from 1964 to 1978. So why Portland? Executive Director Susan Larsen of South Portland, a lifelong friend of the couple and former curator at The Whitney Museum in New York, says, “Portland is a wonderful place. It’s definitely on the move.” winterguide 2017 25



P o rt l a n d a f t e r dark

How

e l g n i S e To B d n a l t r in Po

Arriba! The dance floor heats at the Danza Latina studio.

The city at night holds the promise of chance encounters on ice, dizzying dance floors, mysterious strangers, and perhaps even romance…

meaghan maurice

I

n the 2016 romcom How To Be Single, actor Dakota Johnson, reserved, chary, moves to Brooklyn and tries to navigate the luridly impersonal singles scene. She’s a watcher, a thinker. And the audience is with her from the second she drops in casual conversation that she’s from Maine… If you can relate to Johnson’s wide-eyed voyage across the bars and clubs of a sparkling city, then chances are you’re starting out 2017 single. And if you’re in Portland, you’re in good company. Over two-thirds of the city’s adults are going it solo (according to data from bestplaces.net). As for where to find said company–well, thankfully for most, it does not have to involve skulking around loud, sweaty dance clubs you out-

b y Karen Hofrei ter

grew a decade (or more) ago or attending awkward, singles-themed events where a pink raffle ticket gets you a complimentary plastic glass of Chenin blanc and a flurry of spectacular non sequiturs. The trick to avoiding such situations is to think outside the match.com box and follow the fun, where people are much too busy having a good time to waste it trying out corny pickup lines. Skate date Chilly temperatures, twinkling lights, and the high-risk potential for two people landing in a horizontal, face-to-face position are just some of the reasons the ice-skating rink is a beloved Hollywood romcom trope.

That is why an evening spent “accidentally” bumping into cute strangers at the Rink at Thompson’s Point is the perfect strategic move for the single guy or gal. Get there early and watch the sun set over the Fore River before warming up with a craft beer in the cozy rustic yurt. If you happen to be a Boitano or Yamaguchi in the making, slyly offer a few pointers–or better yet, a warm

“Over two-thirds of [Portland’s] adults are going it solo.” winterguide 2017 27


P ortland a f t e r da r k

Turner Classic

MAINE

ince the movie How To Be Single is our point of departure for this story, we contacted Ben Mankiewicz, host of Turner Classic Movies, to takes us closer to Maine in the movies as we engage a larger culture.

Is there a singular power of Mainers as main characters in film? Ben Mankiewicz: It’s funny you called me. I’ve

just spent the morning interviewing Frank Darabont*. Naturally, Maine came up again and again.

But in a romantic comedy, in something like How To Be Single, why do you think the legendary screenwriting team of Abby Kohn & Marc Silverstein (He’s Just Not That Into You) chose Maine as the home state for Alice, their lead character who’s exploring the dating scene in Brooklyn? Is it because Maine is vaguely in vogue but still sort of ‘parts unknown’? BM: Hmm. If you hear something on the phone,

it’s the sound of me eating potato chips. What exactly do you mean?

If you went to Central Casting and asked for a young Maine woman as a female lead, what characteristics would she have? BM: In a modern movie. Okay. I would look for

that independence that somehow reaches beyond the screen. Let’s start with Katharine Hepburn. I realize she’s not from Maine.

We consider Connecticut ‘greater Maine.’ BM: Yes, but in the New England sense, when I

see Katharine Hepburn, there is a fierceness to her that comes across in just about every role. You can tell right away this woman is not like

the other women in the movie. You know, Anna Kendrick is Katharine Hepburn today. Who was it that just said that Anna Kendrick is the most talented woman working in Hollywood? Right now, if you were to make a list of the eight most talented actors under 50, there is no way she wouldn’t be on the list. Like Hepburn she has a quality to her, no matter what the role is, that makes her instantly likeable–but you’re not sure what she’s going to do next. It doesn’t hurt that she loves movies herself. You can tell that’s true because she’s visited us at TCM and one of her favorites is The Women. [Directed in 1939 by George Cukor, The Women features Norma Shearer, Rosalind Russell, Joan Crawford, Paulette Goddard, and Joan Fontaine.] Yes, she’s told us she once dreamed of being cast in the 2008 version. [The update of The Women features Meg Ryan, Eva Mendes, Annette Bening, Jada Pinkett Smith, and Debra Messing.] BM: Lucky for her, she wasn’t chosen to play in

the new version of that movie.

Dakota Johnson is not from Maine. But she channels her Maine character’s reticence, independence, integrity, and watchfulness in How To Be Single. In fact, as I watched the film, I wondered if the director had hoped to cast Anna Kendrick in the role but couldn’t get her, and then it fell to Dakota to play Alice. ‘Get me an Anna Kendrick type.’ BM: Yeah. I don’t think I saw How To Be Single.

But Dakota Johnson–she was in the train wreck that was Fifty Shades of Gray. After they saw it, the one thing people came out and said was she could be a pretty big star. She’s not just beautiful. There’s something else.

*Nominated three times for the Oscar, Darabont is deeply connected to the Maine mystique. The French-born son of Hungarian refugees from the Soviet incursion of 1956, Darabont moved to Los Angeles as a young child and graduated from Hollywood High. He wrote and directed both Stephen King’s The Shawshank Redemption and The Green Mile, both of which probe the extraordinary sense of Maine. 2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Slip and slide your way into romance at The Rink at Thompson’s Point. Grab a drink at the yurt bar afterward and you’ve got the recipe for a perfect date.

and friendly hand–to a shaky newbie. Later, suggest getting to know one another better over a mug of hot chocolate in front of the glowing outdoor fire pit.

I

Latin Passions f you prefer your meet-cute a bit warmer, try a salsa or bachata class at Danza Latina. Even if the steps won’t exactly flow at first, the conversation will. “The purpose of all our classes is social dancing, not competition,” says Anna Golendukhina, who owns the company with her partner, Lazaro Hernandez. “It’s a very relaxing atmosphere. We laugh a lot, have fun.” The classes are ongoing, so you can spontaneously drop in whenever the spirit moves you. Those seeking to meet someone of the male persuasion may find themselves at a particular advantage. “In both classes for some reason there are always more men. They are there first and foremost to learn, and many of them are great dancers, but there’s no denying

from left: listal; meaghan maurice

S


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Portland after dark

the draw of the sexier aspects of the dances. Bachata, in particular, is romantic, with lots of body rolls to slow, beautiful music.” Colors of love You don’t have to be the artsy type (or the type looking for an artsy type) to enjoy a colorful and jovial evening at Muse Paint Bar. On a typical Friday or Saturday evening a youthful crowd (mid-20s to late-30s) of a few dozen aspiring artistes sets out to transform blank canvases into masterpieces worthy of Portland Museum of Art (or at least a bedroom wall). With the wine, beer, and creativity flowing freely, it’s the perfect low-pressure atmosphere for bonding with a good-looking stranger over one another’s astounding (or absent) talent. “Customers feel a sense of camaraderie after just a few brush strokes. Adding some beer and wine to the mix also helps everyone come out of their shell, converse, and interact with their neighbors,” says owner Stan Finch.

I

Hitting the right note f appreciating (rather than making) art is more your thing, there’s plenty of the aural sort to be found at Blue, where patrons of a wide age range are treated nightly to live jazz, folk, Irish, roots, or rock music. The small, warm space lends itself to quiet, unassuming conversation (no shouting over a blaring DJ necessary). “The atmosphere is always intimate and casual,” says Terez Fraser, owner. “But the music on stage does take the lead and sets the overall vibe. During a livelier set, there will be people sitting up front listening intently and people in the back socializing and even doing a little dancing.” The more introverted will especially find themselves at home here, where “the dimly lit room makes those who come alone feel more comfortable, as well as the fact that the focus is on the stage, not on who’s in the room.” Translation: if you strike up a conversation with someone and very quickly realize he or she is: a) not interesting or b) not interested, you simply go back to being engrossed in the music as if that were the point all along. And even if you do end up hailing the last taxi on your own, you won’t be able to deny that at least your ears had a darn good time. n


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H u n gry Ey e

A Gastronome’s

Guide

to Planet Maine

What’s cooking in 2017? We take a glimpse at the events, eateries, and exciting epicurean trends on Maine’s horizon.

Corey Templeton

F

Sto r i es b y Sara h Moor e , Bail e y O ’bri e n, Kat e O dde n & Willi s Ku e lt hau

or a city where much of the action crystallizes on a peninsula, there’s only so much space available to us. So when a new restaurant surfaces on the radar, it’s often inhabiting the space of an earlier incarnation of the food scene. Rather like a game of musical chairs, Portland’s eateries are shifting: chefs circulate, new owners acquire old favorites (see Caiola’s in Restaurant Review, page 63), and stunning new concepts pop up in old spaces. It may take time before a shiny new spot shakes the ghost of its predecessor. “The Honey Paw–you know, where the Pepperclub was.” The new year promises many fresh delights. Wunderkind chef Cara Stadler of Bao Bao and Tao Yuan in Brunswick has announced she will open Lio, a restaurant with an accompanying wine shop in 6 City Center (the home of soon-to-depart Styxx nightclub) with sommelier Chris Peterman. The former Borealis Bakery & Bistro on Ocean Avenue was recently transformed into the Neapolitan-themed Tipo, the brainchild of a power pairing between the Goulds of small-plate-mecca Central Provisions and former Scales chef Mike Smith. Old favorites have returned in the form of Brea Lu Cafe, now sup-

Sneak Peek: Taste Naples, Italy, at Tipo, new to Woodford’s Corner. (L): beef carpaccio with arugula, smoked allium aioli, aged balsamic, and parmigiano reggiano ($12). (R): Hand-made Garganelli pasta made with ovenbraised lamb ragu, apricot, tarragon, and pecorino ($14/$21). Don’t forget the Negroni ($12)! winterguide 2017 33


Hungry Eye Poké Big Fin est W brings a to ze a r Coast c ok. o r Westb Hunt + A Club w lpine ill open Little Gia and gr nt bar ocery o n Clark S treet.

plying Westbrook with its signature supersized pancakes stacks, while Portlanders were relieved to see the return of El Rayo to Free Street in the former site of Papier Gourmet. Other restaurants transforming retail spaces to food service include Sichuan Kitchen, which will bring Chinese cuisine to the Congress Street site occupied by Anna’s Used Furniture & Collectibles for many years–surely the most dramatic makeover of the year. On Fore Street, the Carla Bella Boutique has become Baristas and Bites, a high-end cafe and patisserie with a to-go lunch service. Lowell Designs on Exchange Street is currently under construction to become a speakeasy-style cocktail joint named Proper Charlie’s. And over on the West End, Vespucci’s variety shop will soon be supplanted by Little Giant, a combination bar and premium corner store from the owners of Hunt + Alpine Club. Arrested development Meanwhile, we wait to discover the fate of David Levi’s Rossobianco, open just four months before an indefinite closure halted our smallplate indulgence. According to the Facebook page, Rossobianco is “restructuring and will reopen in the new year.” Since bidding a sad farewell to Petite Jacqueline’s reign on Longfellow Square (they’re now at 46 Market Street), we’ve been watching in anticipa3 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

tion for the forces behind OTTO to establish their long-awaited flagship burrito joint Ocho at this prize piece of Portland real estate, 190 State Street. Don’t hold your breath–Mike Keon and Anthony Allen confirm they have no plans to pursue the project in 2017. “We’ve decided to stay focused on OTTO. There won’t be any new openings this year.” Ditto for the joint venture with Hero sandwiches, which folded in August after five months of business. “It didn’t work out. We’re walking away from the Hero brand.” This leaves a question mark over the pair’s three empty locations (Monument Square, Longfellow Square, and Congress Street). “We’re paying rent on empty spaces right now. It’s something we’ll have to figure out. It may be that we rent these spaces out to someone else.” big plans for big tree t feels like we’ve been waiting for ages to welcome Baharat–the Middle-Eastern-style eatery from the owners of CN Shawarma food truck–to Washington Avenue, but that could just be our hunger for its arrival. On the same street, Pho restaurant Cong Tu Bot promises to be a fixture of our new year. In Westbrook, Big Fin Poké is set to take over the space previously inhabited by the Dancing Elephant Indian Restaurant. The healthy counter service eatery will offer poké bowls–the Hawaiian

I

tuna dish much hyped in California. Think of it as the new sushi. Talk about on the move. John Myers, beverage director of starry Eventide Oyster Co., recently let slip that “You definitely busted me on my nonchalance regarding the Boston trip...I am so excited for the future of Eventide and the Boston project.” Owners Mike Wiley, Andrew Taylor, and

It may take time before a shiny new spot shakes the ghost of its predecessor. “The Honey Paw–you know, where the Pepperclub was.” Arlin Smith of Big Tree Hospitality are taking their successful oyster-bar franchise down to Beantown, where they’re opening Eventide Fenway on Boylston Street in 2017. The Press Herald quotes Wiley: “It’s less seasonal down there.” Ouch. Seems like this chic neighborhood can’t resist adopting its own ‘Maine’ flavor. Hope it doesn’t go the same way as the alreadyclosed M.C. Spiedo, another brave attempt by legendary Maine restaurateurs to expand into Boston.

from eft: Courtesy photos (4) meredith perdue for hunt and alpine club; kate odden; churchil catering

urant Lio resta p will e sho and win ix City S open at r. n e C te


Epicurean Calendar

2017

What goes on on Monhegan stays …

January

18 Pairings 101: Comfort Food Enjoy an evening with Cellardoor Winery on Thompson’s Point as you dive into the artistry behind food and wine pairings. Escape the cold with a few glasses of wine partnered perfectly with small plates of comfort food prepared by Chef Patrick of Churchill Events and Catering. Devon Pearse-Theroux, a pairing expert from Cellardoor, explains that the wine choices are both local and imported, matched with “comfort food chosen to fit the season.” With an emphasis on learning about evoking complementary and contrasting flavors, Pearse-Theroux describes it as a night of “edu-tainment.” mainewine.com

…with you.

Asian Hibachi Bistro AsiaAnsia n

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28 CHEF SUMMIT For an exceptional day of food and skiing, head to Sunday River’s gathering of some of the finest chefs and mixologists in New England. The day begins with a blueberry pancake cook-off for breakfast with eight teams of chefs and Sunday River’s own maple syrup. Spend the day out on the slopes before capping it off with a star-studded tasting featuring ten top chefs including teams from Portland’s Eventide Oyster Co., The Honey Paw, Hugo’s, EVO, and Five FiftyFive. sundayriver.com 28 PORTLAND ON TAP The Cross Insurance Arena in downtown Portland hosts more than 65 breweries from Maine and beyond. With 130 releases planned for 2017, there’s something to sample for beer snobs across the spectrum. americaontap.com 28 Frosted! Ice Bar The Portland Harbor Hotel may not be hosting its annual ice bar event in 2017, but fear not–David’s KPT in Kennebunkport will assuage your desire for icy-drinks luges, s’mores, and hot chocolate. boathouseme.com

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Hungry Ey e 28 Channel your inner poet on Rabbie Burns Day Pull on your ghillies and strap on your sporan for the annual Robert Burns Luncheon at The Daniel Pub in Brunswick. The St. Andrews Society of Maine celebrates the Bard of Ayrshire with an annual birthday feast. “We pipe in the haggis;

then there will be a poetry reading, naturally. Traditionally, one of our male members gives a ‘toast to the last season,’ and one of the ladies gives a ‘toast to the laddies.’ Entertainment includes a piper, kiltmaking demonstrations, and a harp recital,“ says president Patti Tillotson. mainehighlandgames.org 29 Pork Osso Buco and the Art of Braising

Expand your culinary universe by learning how to prepare this classic Italian meal. TIQA’s chefs promise to teach you the perfect braising techniques to master the “warm and wonderful winter dish,” including how to cook and enjoy the flavorful bone marrow at TIQA restaurant on Commercial Street. tiqa.net 29 PIES ON PARADE Downtown Rockland is

Pantry. 596-6611 historicinnsofrockland.com

February dessert mecca for one special Sunday. Make a pilgrimage for the coastal town’s 13th annual Pies on Parade. Sweet, savory– even seafood pies make the cut, served up solo or paired with wines at inns, restaurants, and bakeries all over town. Ticket sales benefit the Outreach Food

Four’s the Charm

As recognizable on the restaurant scene as his signature dishes, Jason Loring shows no sign of slowing his foodie reign in 2017.

Last year was a big one for you. The Fifth Food Group opened two new spots (Rhum & Grog and Big J’s Chicken), effectively doubling your restaurant real estate.

It was an extremely busy year. I was doing things at a pace I’d never done before. Mike [Frazer of Bramhall Pub] and I had been working on Rhum for about a year, but Big J’s was born out of necessity. Chris [Thompson] and Jeb [Troubh] saw the potential for a small food slot in the space be3 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

low the Cryptozoology Museum next to Bissell Bros., so we decided to go for it. It could have been as simple as a coffee shop, but that’s not really what I’m into! What’s on the horizon for 2017?

Thompson and Troubh have big plans for Thompson’s Point. We’re going to be working together to develop the Brick South building into a big events space with a functioning kitchen and bar and even a wholesale bakery. I’m consulting and helping to plan out the food side of things. The Point

4-6 Brunswick Ice Bar The Brunswick Tavern promises all the luge shots you can stomach this winter at the annual Ice Bar. “We usually completely sell out! But you can always buy the hotel package deal, just in case you overindulge on the luge shots,”

is even bigger than the Old Port in terms of square-footage—and it has parking! We caught you filming Off the Menu. Are you a TV star now?

A friend from Nosh put me in contact with Off The Menu, [whose] CEO is friends with [actress] Shay Mitchell (Pretty Little Liars), who was filming [Cadaver] in Boston. They came up to shoot for their Youtube channel, so I took them for back-to-back meals at Slab, Big J’s, and Rhum. She totally stuffed her face. I didn’t even know who Shay was when we met. She’s cool as s**t. People started following us around town as soon as they spotted her. It was surreal.

Clockwise from top left: CC-Conor Peter Nolan; mine potato board; knack factory - Zack Bowen; courtesy Slab

January


Star Spud

It’s not just new restaurants to look out for. Maine’s newest tuber, the whimsically named “Caribou Russet” potato (a nod to Senator Collins, a Caribou native who has supported potato breeding programs), will make its debut after many years in development. “Feedback suggests it’s very versatile,” says Don Flannery of the Maine Potato Board. “It works well baked or mashed.” Breakout quality? “A sweet flavor.” Flannery says the Caribou Russet “will be available in most grocers next year.”

says Whitney Pelletier. thebrunswickhotelandtavern.com 5 Romantic Breakfastmaking Class Surprise your Valentine with a breakfast to remember. Join the chefs at TIQA restaurant on Commercial Street and learn how to make the perfect Eggs Benedict with a homemade Hollandaise, French toast, hash, and pancake filled with a sweet cheese called Katayef. tiqa.net 11 Wines & Valentines Feel the love with wine tastings & food pairing at the Kennebunk Inn to celebrate the season’s most romantic holiday. Bottoms up! kennebunkportinn.com/ 12 How to make pasta at home A joint pasta-making class could be the ideal Valentine’s date (or subtle gift for your culinary-challenged partner). Either way, the chefs at TIQA restaurant on Commerical Street will teach the ins and outs of making the perfect pasta dish. After all, who doesn’t love carbs? tiqa.net 17-19 FLAVORS OF FREEPORT Tour confectioners counters, sample local plates, and enjoy pairings around town at Freeport’s inns and restaurants. The ice bar offers cool libations all weekend long, best enjoyed fireside or while getting down on the dance floor to Motor Booty Affair on Saturday night. freeportusa.com 19 CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Head up to Moosehead Lake to satisfy your sweet tooth with samples of fabulous confections at the 13th annual Chocolate Festival. While you glut yourself on plenty of delicious chocolate, make sure to

Coming Soon to Portland 11 Brown Street • www.Brgr-Bar.com winterguide 2017 37


Hungry Eye also join in on the family activities, and take part in the Chinese raffle and silent auction to support local businesses. mooseheadlake.org

February

Seasonal Update The Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission has

announced the ban on the Maine shrimp harvest will continue throughout 2017.

stock, and much more at TIQA restaurant on Commercial Street. tiqa.net

20-24 Cooking Camp for Kids Campers will learn rules for kitchen safety; how to handle a knife properly; how to chop, blanch, and shock vegetables; how to prepare a homemade

28 FAT TUESDAY CAJUN COOKING CHALLENGE Join WMPG for Mardi Gras madness at the USM Woodbury Campus Center in Portland for the radio station’s 22nd annual

celebration of all things Cajun with live music and creative cuisine. Local restaurants compete for bragging rights in a battle of Franco-American food. The reigning champion is Bayside American Café, which promises to up the ante from 2016’s gumbo with chicken and andou-

Notes from the

Foodie Front Line

Anestes Fotiades of the Portland Food Map (portlandfoodmap.com) is a kind of cuisine cartographer, charting the geography of Portland’s shifting food scene in its many developments and evolutions. He shares with us his most awaited openings of the new year. “There’s a really good pipeline of interesting spots that will open between now and the start of the summer tourist season.” Here are his most interesting developments:

Baharat

91 Anderson Street Coming January 2017: “The couple who launched the CN Shawarma food truck is transforming the business into a brickand-mortar Middle Eastern restaurant in East Bayside.”

Black Cow

Location to be revealed “Gary Bowcott and chef Nick Nappi’s vision is bring back to life the classic American soda fountain.” TBA.

Cong Tu Bot 59 Washington Avenue

Izakaya Minato

28 MARDI GRAS Fat Tuesday gets into full swing across Maine with local events spanning the state. Have your fattest Tuesday yet by enjoying specials and live music at Po’ Boys and Pickles on Forest Avenue

Gross Confection Bar Location to be revealed

“Longtime Fore Street pastry chef Brant Dadeleares plans to open a combination dessert and cocktail bar.” TBA

Sticky Sweet 28 Monument Square

January 2017: Serving up Thai sweet sticky rice with a Maine twist. Located upstairs in the Public Market House.

54 Washington Avenue

January 2017: “Newcomers Elaine Alden and chef Thomas Takashi Cooke are set to open a casual Japanese restaurant on Washington Ave. Reviews from their pop-up dinner at Bao Bao were universally positive.”

Lio

3 Spring Street January 2017: “Chef Cara Stadler and sommelier Chris Peterman are teaming up to open a wine restaurant, where the cuisine will be designed to complement the wine list.”

Early 2017: “Chef Vien Dubai and Jessica Sheahan are opening a Pho restaurant on Washington Ave. I’ve been waiting several years since the last Cong Tu Bot pop-up dinner to have another bowl!”

The Purple House

378 Walnut Hill Road, North Yarmouth January 2017: “James Beard-nominated chef Krista Kern Desjarlais is opening a wood-fired bakery and cafe in North Yarmouth. Anyone who had the chance to eat at Bresca is anxiously anticipating opening day.”

Little Giant 211 Danforth Street

January 2017: “Andrew and Briana Volk from the Hunt + Alpine Club have bought a building in the West End where they plan to open a restaurant and neighborhood market.”

Tipo

182 Ocean Avenue Early 2017: “Chris and Paige Gould from Central Provisions are opening a Neapolitan restaurant in the Back Cove neighborhood.” 3 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ille sausage with mini corn cakes. wmpg.org


Back on the Block Clockwise from top right: Meaghan maurice (2); meredith perdue for portland hunt + alpine club; courtesy photos (6)

T

hose familiar with Figa, the Asian fusion attraction of the East End food scene which closed in 2013 after two years, will be stunned at the transformation of 249 Congress Street from cozy neighborhood eatery to a bright, modern bistro with a distinctly European aesthetic. Welcome to LB Kitchen. Vacant for three years, the original red brick walls are now painted a cool white, matching the extensive subway tiling along the counters and quirky accents on the wooden furniture. “The interior came to me in a dream back in 2007. I know, I know–that sounds weird,” says Lee Farrington, looking relaxed as she moves around the open-plan kitchen, its layout unchanged since the days of Figa. The chef isn’t going it alone this time. LB stands for Lee and Bryna, life and business partners. Bryna Gootkind also works for an organic super food brand, Navitas Naturals. “LB Kitchen is our shared vision,” Goodkind says. “It’s something we talked about for over a year,” says Gootkind. “The menu concept is based around functional food–it tastes good and each component does you good. I’m the one who is full of ideas and weird food information. Lee is the magician who pulls it together.” One such example of this dynamic is the bone broth ($7), served to-go in paper cups like coffee. The salty, tasty broth is packed with healthy fats and protein, although “It took Lee a while to get on board with the idea,” admits Bryna. The star of the menu is surely the LB Bowls (crafted by local ceramicist Amanda Scimino), heaped servings of grains and super foods galore. Figa evangelists will cele-

brate the reincarnation of Farrington’s wild boar as an LB Bowl, along with coconut and red curry (“I was getting emails about that dish when I closed Figa,” says Farrington. “It had to be included.”). The menu is a mixture of both virtuous and sinful. The healthful bowls, featuring the label “Not Diet Food,” are an enormous portion for $10. Farrington’s fans who know her penchant for cake will not be disappointed. The Practically Famous Cake Slice ($4) is rich, chocolaty…and vegan. “I served it to Norah Jones before her show at State Theater,” says Farrington. “She was like, ‘there’s no way this can be vegan!’” The bistro will focus on breakfast and lunch servings, closing at 2 p.m. in an attempt to secure that elusive work/life balance for the couple, who have a young child. That being said, their excitement and ambition is palpable. “We’re planning to do ticketed pop-up dinners a couple of times a month,” says Gootkind. “We also see ourselves packaging and selling some of our ingredients, like the ‘Cashew Crack’ nut butter. And I’d love to see a few more locations in the local area in the future.” winterguide 2017 39


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February

in Portland. Ogunquit, Hallowell, and Camden boast parades, parties, and persillade. 28 Incredible Breakfast Cook-Off This annual event, often referred to as “Maine’s best breakfast,” hosted at South Portland Sea Dog, is also for a good cause–100 percent of the proceeds are donated to Preble Street. mainerestaurantweek.com/events

March

1-12 MAINE RESTAURANT WEEK Okay, so it’s actually a week and five days, but you’ll be glad it went overtime. Throughout Maine, chefs indulge your tastebuds’ wildest fantasies at every meal. Prix-fixe dinners are the main event, but don’t forget to save room for dynamic breakfasts, lunch deals, craft cocktails, and more. mainerestaurantweek.com 3-4 SUNAANA FESTIVAL Rather than waiting for the summer sun to herald the return of Maine’s festival spirit, Thompson’s Point wants to be your yearround destination for a good time. This March will see the inaugural Sunaana Festival, “a massive party right before winter departs for the season,” according to coorganizer Darren Elder of Halo Studios. Sunaana will bring together all of our favorite things: food, drink, and entertainment. Indulge in some liquid warmth with libations from Bissell Brothers, Cellardoor Winery, or Stroudwater Distillery. Enjoy aerial artists and gymnastic marvels from Circus Maine along with a variety of musical talents hand-picked by The Halo Studios. Elder says the musical acts are a “curation of what is currently percolating.” Whatever that may mean. Sunaana.com 5 Perfect Pairing Challenge Featured bakers and bakeries serving sweet and savory treats are paired with a variety of Coffee By Design styled roasts. New for 2017, coffee beers, stouts, porters, and others will also be poured. mainerestaurantweek.com/events 11 FULL MOON DINNER Nothing says “Mountain Magic” like a gourmet meal by moonlight. Sunday River invites gastronauts to enjoy dinner and drinks with stunning views at the mid-mountain Peak Lodge. sundayriver.com 12 Spirit Quest A self-guided cocktail and paired bites walking tour that takes participants to Old Port and Arts District restaurants and bars throughout Portland. A delicious way to spend the afternoon. mainerestaurantweek.com/events

4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e


No Sign of Slowing

15 PORTLAND SYMPHONY WINE DINNER & AUCTION Hosted once again at the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport, this annual fundraiser combines glamour with gourmet. Wine is the nucleus of the event, and 2017 means divine vintages from Germany, France, and Austria. Chefs Sam Hayward (Fore Street and Scales), Brian Hill (Francine Bistro), Krista Kern Desjarlais (The Purple House, Bresca & the Honey Bee), and Cara Stadler (Tao Yuan, BaoBao Dumpling House, and Lio) share the kitchen with the Harraseeket’s Troy Mains, creating perfect dishes to complete pairings. 773-6128, portlandsymphony.org 24 FREE ICE CREAM CONE DAY Spring marks the return of lots of good things in Maine, Gifford’s Ice Cream included. At all five of its family-owned shops in Skowhegan, Farmington, Bangor, Waterville, and Auburn, the shops celebrate the start of the season with free cone day. Snow or no, it’s never too cold for free dessert. giffordsicecream.com 26 BRISKET DERBY Fuel up to shred the slopes with a day’s worth of barbecue tastings and competitions to benefit the Sunday River Community Fund. The day pairs a brisket cook-off featuring “the best BBQ this side of anywhere” with an exhibition by local fire departments in which firefighters will race a slalom course in full turnout gear. As Sunday River puts it, “a smoke show like no other.” sundayriver.com 26 CHILI CHOWDER CHALLENGE Chili and chowder cook-offs are never far away in the Pine Tree State, but none can compare to Augusta’s annual Chili Chowder Challenge. Local restaurants battle for the glory at the Augusta Armory while raising funds for the Augusta Children’s Center. chilichowederchallenge.com 26 MAINE MAPLE SUNDAY Maple farms across Maine offer tastings, syrup-making demonstrations, and sweets to satisfy your sweet tooth. mainemapleproducers.com Mar. 31 - Apr. 1 SPRING FESTIVAL Sunday River continues a yearly tradition of food, music, and Margarita Mix-Off among local bartenders, plus a key lime pie eating contest. Live music and rousing rounds of Sip ‘n’ Flip keep the fun going all week long. sundayriver.com

April

2 CHOCOLATE LOVERS FLING The most delicious fundraiser in Maine returns to South Portland’s Marriott at Sable

J

ust in case you were worried the momentum behind the Maine craft brewing movement could not sustain itself any longer, fear not. The coming year looks set to welcome even more openings and expansions by local brewers. In Maine, craft beer remains king. East Bayside originals Bunker Brewing have made the journey south to a larger space in Libbytown. The 9,000-square-foot brewery and tasting room will be situated just a stone’s throw from Bissell Brothers brewery…and the Cumberland County Jail. In its four years on Anderson Street, owners Chresten Sorenson and Jay Villani (of Salvage BBQ, Local 188, and Sonny’s fame) saw East Bayside transform from industrial wasteland to one of the city’s hottest new spots. Perhaps the move to Libbytown is a signal of things to come? Joining the ranks of Foundation, Allagash, and Austin Street, Battery Steele will be the new kid on the block at One Industrial Way come February. Owners Shane Noble and Jake Condon cut their teeth working at Gritty McDuff’s brew pubs over the years before deciding to go it alone. “We know we have to hit the pavement running,” says Condon. “There are so many discerning palates around Portland. We grew up on farms in Aroostook County, so our goal is to use as many locally sourced

and sustainably grown Maine-based products as possible. In the fall of 2017, our goal is to start using grains from a Maine farmer that were planted especially for us.” Over in Westbrook, joining the ranks of Mast Landing Brewing will be the affirmatively named Yes Brewing Co. on 609 Main Street, slated to open in April 2017. We quizzed owner John Bigelow on his decision to open outside of Portland. “Portland is absolutely saturated. [Westbrook] is just far enough away from the city that we get that little bit more notoriety…not to mention just that the town itself is phenomenal.” A casualty of the craft brewing boom, D.L. Geary Brewing Co., a.k.a. the one that started it all in 1983, has reportedly taken a cut in production due to decreased demand following stiff competition from its younger counterparts. According to statistics from the Bureau of Alcoholic Beverages, Geary’s production went down by 34.5 percent between 2011 and 2015. Meanwhile, craft breweries made 113.8% more beer in 2015 than in 2011. As more breweries establish themselves in the state (59 in total, according to figures from Brewers Association in 2015) brewers are having to fight to slake the thirst of an increasingly competitive market. Multiple requests for comment have been rebuffed. winterguide 2017 41


Hungry Eye

Thirsty?

Drink events across the year. Aurora Provisions, Portland. Two to three free tastings each month on Tuesdays. 871-9060 auroraprovisions.com Bow Street Market, Freeport. Up to three events per month in certain months, Saturdays. 8656631 bowstreetmarket.com Browne Trading Market, Portland. Regular tastings MarchJune in addition to special events. 775-7560, brownetrading.com Cellardoor Winery, Portland. Free weekly tastings at The Point, Sundays 1-3 p.m. 7634778 mainewine.com The Clown, York. Free tastings on the 2nd Friday of each month, 5-8 p.m. 351-3063 the-clown.com Craft Beer Cellar, Portland. Craft beer tastings every Friday. “One of the things we’re looking to do in 2017 is to have tastings from two different breweries at the same time, like a West Coast/East Coast competition,” says Jason Martin, manager. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Cross Insurance Arena,Portland. Portland on Tap, two sessions of the country’s best craft beers, Jan. 28. 7753458 crossarenaportland.com Leroux Kitchen, Portland. Free tastings on the 2nd Saturday of each month, 1-3 p.m. 553-7665, 4 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

lerouxkitchen.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tasting every third Wed. 7729463 oldportwine.com Otherside Deli, 164 Veranda St., Portland. Wine tasting every first Tues. 761-9650 othersidedeli.com Rosemont Markets, Portland and Yarmouth. Two to three free tastings and events each month on Fridays. 774-8129 rosemontmarket.com

April

Oaks for year 31. The event is a showcase for Maine’s best chocolatiers, competing for the flavor favor of attendees. You’re not “ganache” want to miss this one. All proceeds go to the Sexual Assault Response Services of Southern Maine. chocolateloversfling.org 27 GULF OF MAINE SEAFOOD CELEBRATION A celebration featuring local chefs, live music, and local seafood. Sample delectable seafood dishes by Culinary Partners while enjoying spring views of Casco Bay and mingling with local fishermen and marine scientists. gmri.org

May

4 TOAST ON THE COAST This annual wine tasting gala at Ocean Gateway benefits Easter Seals of Maine. Portland chefs face off in friendly competition while patrons judge the contest between sips of more than 100 varieties of wine. Dancing and a silent auction round out the night and one lucky gala-goer will win a seven-day trip for two to California wine country. toastonthecoast.com

Sweetgrass Winery & Distillery, Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings daily. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com

June

West End Deli, Portland. Monthly tastings. 874-6426 thewestenddeli.com

11 OLD PORT FESTIVAL Portland’s historic Old Port district warms up at the start of the summer with this annual party. Live music provides a soundtrack for a day filled with local flavor. Food stands, carts, and trucks are at attention, dishing up a variety of fried fare and ethnic foods. portlandmaine.com

The Wine Seller, Rockland. Free tastings twice monthly. 594-2621 thewineseller.biz Or join decorated Sommelier and native Portlander Erica Archer on a Wine (and Food) Walk or Sail in the area. Walks happen at least twice monthly. “These walks attract people who are interested in understanding the burgeoning Portland food and drink scene. This year we’re planning to do more walks specific to neighborhoods,” says Archer. 619-4630 winewiseevents.com

6-11 KENNEBUNKPORT FESTIVAL Downtown Kennebunkport serves up a food, wine, and an art festival with restaurant specials and gallery receptions around town. 772-3373, kennebunkportfestival.com

24 GREEK FESTIVAL Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church hosts its annual Greek Festival the last weekend in June. Skip breakfast and head to the big tent on Pleasant Street to fill up on pita, moussaka, and pastries that would make Yia-Yia proud. 774-0281, holytrinityportland.com 24 MAINE WHOOPIE PIE FESTIVAL Contrary to claims in Pennsylvania, whoopie pies are a New England trademark. What better way to celebrate Maine’s rich heritage than to gobble the state’s official state dessert? DoverFoxcroft’s annual Maine Whoopie Pie Festival is the ultimate homage, offering a slew of unique flavors and whoopie-related activities, including a road race to free up those


Maine’s love for lobster and craft beer knows no bounds. Oxbow Brewing will once again release Saison dell’Aragosta, a traditional farmhouse ale brewed over 11 months using Maine lobsters, infusing the beer with a unique, briny quality. While the mash-up sounds a bit quirky, it seems beer aficionados have responded with zest—Oxbow promises an even larger batch this year. Saison dell’Aragosta is expected to be released in early July. oxbowbeer.com

Light your home with beeswax candles! extra calories. 564-8943, mainewhoopiepiefestival.com

July

7-9 MOXIE FESTIVAL The Moxie Store is closed, but its spirit lives on in Lisbon Falls with the continuation of that infamous Maine soda. The Moxie Festival is a journey beyond the soft drink, with Moxie-infused food, fireworks, live entertainment, a parade, and a 5K race. moxiefestival.com

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9-17 MAINE POTATO BLOSSOM FESTIVAL The 70th annual homage to Maine’s famous tuber takes place in Fort Fairfield when the potato blossoms are in bloom. “Our parade is one of the largest in Northern New England,” said Tim Goff, director of the festival. “We have 100 events over nince days. There’s mashed potato wrestling (which is hugely popular), a tater-tot eating competition, and a giant fireworks display.” That’s not to mention the races, farmer competitions, potatoes cooked up many ways, a lobster and clam bake, contests, pageants, and the crowning of a Potato Blossom Queen. fortfairfield.org 11-16 CENTRAL MAINE EGG FESTIVAL Need an egg-scuse to gorge on quiche? Look no further than Pittsfield’s annual Central Maine Egg Festival. This annual tradition is sponsored by the region’s brown egg industry and celebrates the chicken and the ovum. Seek the answer to which one came first while enjoying egg-themed activities, a winterguide 2017 43


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Who, What, Where

W

hich star shares your favorite local haunt? Don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled next time you eat out—you never know who might be at the next table.

Tina Fey is “one of Duckfat’s biggest fans,” according to Zagat. Duckfat’s Nancy Pugh tells us the restaurant’s other

July

parade, and eggy foods. pittsfield.org

Duckfat fries: zack bowen - knack factory

14-16 MAINE CELTIC CELEBRATION A fitting host city for such a celebration, Belfast presents its 11th annual Maine Celtic Celebration. Music, dancing, and feats of strength mark the occasion, but none compare with the remarkable cheese-rolling championship. Show up and cheer on the cheesechasers…or the wheel of Dubliner. mainecelticcelebration.com 19-22 Culinary Schooner Cruises Chef Annie Mahle hosts a unique epicurean experience aboard the sleek J. & E. Riggin windjammer. Immerse yourself in the natural bounty of land and sea with spectacular scenery and savory substance gathered from Chef Annie’s

H u n gry Ey e

stellar visitors include “David Byrne of Talking Heads, Annie Clark of St. Vincent, Michael Pollan, Rachael Ray, Martha Stewart, and David Chang.” Back when she really was a Scrappy Little Nobody, we spoke to Anna Kendrick, then 22, about her favorite place to eat out in Portland [Februrary/March 2008]. “My dad and I have to get the spicy scallop roll at Yosaku. I also love Foley’s Bakery and Street & Co.”

own garden, local farms, and farmers markets. Cruises include lodging, meals, and shore excursions. getrealmaine.com 21-23 YARMOUTH CLAM FESTIVAL Fried, steamed, caked, or chowdered, this beloved annual feast takes over Main Street, Yarmouth with all the mollusks you can eat, as well as a road race, Maine crafts, art, live music and more. Proceeds benefit several nonprofits. 846-3984, clamfestival.com 23 OPEN FARM DAY Your day to connect to life on a Maine farm. The wonder of growing plants and animals will be on full display at participating farms scattered across the state. Approximately 100

Maine farms open their gates to greet guests and tell the story behind the products they sell. Various locations. getrealmaine.com 29 Festival of Nations Now recognized as one of the most outstanding family-oriented cultural events held in the state of Maine, this festival celebrates the smorgasbord of cultures that meet in our state. Expand your mind with music, dance, and local cuisine from Somalia, Mexico, and Thailand while strolling through the bright fluttering flags and colorful traditional dress in Deering Oaks Park. facebook.com/greaterportlandfestivalofnations

When he’s not directing blockbusters and mingling with A-listers in LA, director/producer JJ Abrams cools his heels at his mansion in Camden. Here in town, Abrams has been known to frequent Eventide Oyster Co. “It was a total surprise when he arrived!” says chef Mike Wiley. Hmm. Straight to the front of the line? Portland native Judd Nelson has a penchant for J’s Oyster, according to Rita Yarnold. His favorite Breakfast Club? “For many years now, ever since I was a little boy, my favorite breakfast spot in Portland has been the Miss Portland Diner,” [Portland Magazine, October 2014]. Some really don’t like it haute. Stephen King recently tweeted this confession: “My eating habits are horrible. My favorite restaurant is Waffle House [in Bangor].” Horrors, Stephen.

A Fleeting Affair

Possessing a woodsy, slightly nutty flavor, Maine fiddleheads are a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it delight. “It’s a short season,” says John Schreiber of Rosemont Market, so make sure to keep your eyes peeled in early June for their appearance on menus across town. Last year, Flatbread Co. even offered a seasonal pizza entirely covered in the curly green ferns. Other verdant summer offerings include ramps, a pungent relative of the leek, which appear in mid-May and can be found at local farmer’s markets across the state. When cooking, substitute your white onions for these unique alliums for an enticing seasonal twist.

August

2-6 MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL Boiled lobster, lobster rolls, lobster macaroni and cheese, lobster bisque, lobster pot pie… winterguide 2017 45


Hungry Eye

What We Don’t DoSave yourself a headache and avoid these Portland foodie faux pas: –Try to get into Fore Street on Saturday night without a reservation. In spite of their claiming to keep one-third of their seating open for walk-ins, even Johnny Carson was turned away for not having a reservation, according to an urban myth. And look what happened to him!

–Try to sit a large group at Eventide in summer. Make this your go-to date spot instead during the off-season and save yourself the agony of waiting two hours watching other people’s brown butter lobster rolls glide past.

–Take your vegetarian pal to Nosh. Likewise any friend attempting to diet. The outlandishly indulgent menu is designed to break anyone’s resolve entirely. Either way, you’ll bear the brunt of the regret afterwards.

–Take your no-frills friends to Novare Res. The shame you’ll feel when they ask for a Bud Light won’t fade for some time. Try Brian Boru instead. The Irish pub straddles the line between mainstream and local beers.

–Attempt to impress your international relatives with a trip to Green Elephant at peak time on the weekend. The increasingly common no-reservation rule can make spontaneity a challenge. Prepare to wait for three hours before hunger drives you to Down Town Lounge next door for Miller High Life and burgers.

– Anonymous

August

the visionary chefs, both professional and amateur, give Bubba Blue a run for his money. Rockland’s annual Maine Lobster Festival celebrates Maine’s most famous seafood. Activities abound for all ages, including cooking contests, a road race and a craft show, and more. 596-0376, mainelobsterfestival.com 12-13 PLOYE FESTIVAL AND MUSKIE DERBY Better than Bisquick, ployes are traditional Acadian flapjacks. These buckwheat pancakes have sustained FrancoAmericans for centuries. In Fort Kent, fuel up on these filling cakes before setting out on the Saint John River for the annual Muskie Derby. 834-5354, fortkentchamber.com 11-15 ACADIAN FESTIVAL Party in the streets of Madawaska at The County’s annual Acadian Festival. Join your

French cousins for one big family reunion with traditional foods, artisan displays and craft sales, music, a parade, and true Acadian culture. acadianfestival.com 19 HIGHLAND GAMES Every summer, the St. Andrews Society of Maine brings together all things Scottish at the Topsham Fairgrounds. Traditional musicians and dancers provide the live entertainment, along with sporting events, shepherd dog trials, and the hallmark of any good gathering of Scotsmen: haggis. mainehighlandgames.org 26 WELLS CHILIFEST Whether you are a seasoned pro or an amateur chili maker, the Wells Chilifest is the ultimate Maine battleground for savory Southwest stew. The event is sanctioned by the International Chili Society, running categorized competitions for seri-

4 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ous cooks. “Whoever wins our competition represents Maine in the ICS World Championship. Chili cooks come from all over the Atlantic seaboard,” said Wells Chamber of Commerce president Eleanor Vadenais. There’s also a People’s Choice cookoff for part-time flavor engineers. 646-2451, wellschilifest.com

nual Mount Desert Island Garlic Festival at Smuggler’s Den Campground. What started as a friendsonly harvest party has grown into a beloved island tradition. Local chefs serve up garlicky goodies, and farmers present their finest bulbs at a farmer’s market. Craft beer and live music keep the campgrounds rocking all weekend long. nostrano.com

19 Farm to Fork Fondo Cycle for your supper at the Maine Farm to Fork Fondo. A non-competitive event across southern Maine, ending with a pint from Maine Beer Co. and a lobster bake by 111 Maine Catering at Wolfe’s Neck Farm. farmforkfondo.com

16 HARVEST FEST & CHOWDER COOK-OFF This fall festival set on Bethel’s village common kicks off the cold weather right. This autumn festival has something for everyone: crafts, vendors, live entertainment. But the two cookoffs–chowder and apple pie–really make the weekend. 824-2282 bethelmaine.com

September

8-10 MOUNT DESERT ISLAND GARLIC FESTIVAL Don’t forget the Altoids when you head to Southwest Harbor for the an-

22-24 COMMON GROUND COUNTRY FAIR This one-of-a-kind agricultural fair celebrates organic farming in Maine. Sponsored by the Maine

Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, the Common Ground Country Fair is rural homesteader heaven. Programs include demonstrations for growing and preparing food, livestock showings, and organic food chain-related talks, as well as vendors slinging crafts, produce, and organic fair food. 5684142, mofga.org

October

7 CHOWDAH CHALLENGE Freeport’s Fall Festival weekend guarantees a good time. Chefs all over town cook up specials and purvey pairings. But one culinary event stands above the others: the Chowdah Challenge. “Ten area restaurants showcase their best chowder, and those attending decide which is the best,” said Nancy Trottier, events and communications coordinator of Freeport Community Services. “All


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H u n g ry E ye proceeds from ticket sales go to Freeport Community Services,” she added. Join in the festivities at L.L.Bean’s Discovery Park in Freeport. 865-3985, freeportusa.com 7-9 Damariscotta Pumpkinfest & Regatta Gourd-ness gracious! Damariscotta turns orange for one weekend in October for the 11th annual Pumpkinfest and Regatta event. “Anything you can think of doing with a pumpkin, we do it!” says volunteer Robin Mayer. “There are a fleet of hollowed out pumpkins designed into boats floating around the bay; Artists sculpt 1,200 lb. pumpkins into works of art; the Pumpkin drop sees 700-800 lb. gourds dropped from 200 feet onto parked cars; there’s even a pumpkin derby! It’s a lot of fun.” 865-3985, freeportusa.com

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15 GREAT MAINE APPLE DAY Compare apples to apples at the Common Ground Educational Center in Unity. Growers and educators present the history and science behind Maine’s apple varieties and their products. “There’s apple tasting all day long. We have hundreds of different apples, and we show you how to use them,” said Anna Mueller, MOFGA events coordinator. “One vendor always sells apple pizza, and there’s an apple pie contest.” On this fruity day, farms around the state invite you to pick your own. 5684142, mofga.org

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15 MAINE CHEESE FESTIVAL The Maine Cheese Guild hosts this dairy-infused celebration at Savage Oaks Vineyard and Winery in Union. What better place for Maine cheesemakers to gather? Guild members offer tastings and sell their wares to chefs and civilian aficionados alike. mainecheeseguild.org

19-23 HARVEST ON THE HARBOR Thousands flock to Portland to experience Maine cuisine at this foodie extravaganza. Spectacular celebrity-chef feast events, tastings of Maine-grown and produced food and drink, and a “big eat” opportunity to sample offerings from dozens of local eateries and beverage purveyors in one large venue. Most events are held on the waterfront. Plan ahead because quite a few events sell out. harvestontheharbor.com


The Sweetest Thing

Beekeeping operations of all sizes are buzzing through Maine. The fall harvest, usually darker and richer than the mild summer harvest, took a severe hit from 2016’s August and September drought. Meghan Gaven, co-owner of The Honey Exchange in Portland, estimates they “only collected about 20 percent of the normal harvest during the fall.” Last year’s limited yield may underscore the larger issues facing honeybees nationally, but local concoctions such as Maine Mead Works’s Honeymaker Dry Mead and Gritty’s Honey Brown Ale show us Maine’s honey is still in high demand.

November

11-12 MAINE HARVEST FESTIVAL The Maine Potato Board presents this annual event at the Cross Insurance Center in Bangor. The event showcases the Maine food chain from farm to fork, including growers, processors, brewers and wineries, food retailers, restaurateurs, and more. Samples are ample. maineharvestfestival.com

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1-3 & 8-10 CHRISTMAS PRELUDE Kennebunkport’s annual holiday celebration won’t fit in one weekend. Attendees enjoy in-town shopping in the crisp December air, candlelight caroling, restaurant specials, hot cocoa, and more. Sheila Matthews-Bull, who’s been involved with the Prelude from the start, highlighted “the hat parade. This event grew from people wearing Christmas-themed hats to the Prelude. The parade first started eight or nine years ago. Now we have over 500 people marching in it.” And feel free to bring your furry friend for the annual costumed pooch parade. A veritable winter wonderland, the town receives the man in red himself at the dock­­­­—Santa arrives on a lobster boat. christmasprelude.com n

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Icons

Dreamboat Can it be so? Rudolph Valentino, legendary Latin lover and superstar of The Shiek, right here at the Maine Expo–home to high school hoop and pro-wrestling rumbles? Now here’s the stuff of romance–and a very public spat. by Herb Adams

chicago tribune

udolph Valentino (18951926) was likely the most famous man in America when he rolled into Portland in April of 1923. Sex symbol of the young century, Valentino burst into fame as the first mega-star of the silent screen, when the movies were still an infant art. Launched by luck and exotic good looks in The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (released in 1921, the first silent film to make a million dollars) and Blood And Sand (1922), Valentino’s iconic The Sheik (1921) cemented his legend as the ultimate Latin Lover–a stereotype he hated and yet could not escape. Nor could Valentino escape a stormy marriage to Winifred

Shaughnessy Hudnut, an Irish-American perfume heiress famous for short-tempered tantrums about her husband’s female fans. An unhappy Hollywood husband, Valentino was adored by millions and in hot

water at home. During a studio dispute in 1922-1923, the Valentinos toured as promoters of Mineralava Beauty Clay, an awkwardly named cosmetic both Valentinos claimed to use. The tour was a tremendous success, with performances in 88 cities across the U.S. and Canada. In each, the couple judged tango competitions before Valentino himself chose the “Most Beautiful Example of American Womanhood,” dangling before each a place in the national Mineralava Beauty Pageant in New York City and a role in his next movie opposite the Latin Lover himself. Who could resist? The Portland Evening Express beat the drums loudly as Valentino approached, opening a photo competition that drew hundreds of entrants, from which six Maine lovelies would be chosen for Valentino’s expert eyes. “Screen’s Great Lover To Name The State’s Most Beautiful Girl Tomorrow!” headlined the Express. “Little wonder that the hearts of Maine girls thrill at the prospect, and that they are tumbling over each other with eagerness to be the fortunate one.” Among the eager hordes, amid

The Valentinos in gaucho garb for the tango, as they appeared at the Portland Expo. Note that even with built-up boots, Valentino is barely as tall as the temperamental Miss Hudnut. winterguide 2017 51


Icons

apple-cheeked ingénues with beestung lips, was a photo of 17-yearold schoolgirl Dorothy M. Appleby, whose parents ran the Appleby Lunch Room at 265 St. John Street. Mature for her age, and a mix of Maine innocence with a vampish come-hither look, Appleby quickly made the editor’s cut for the half dozen lucky ladies advanced to the finals. making an entrance s befitted Hollywood royalty, the Valentinos rolled into Portland in a luxury train once used by the King of Belgium and President Woodrow Wilson. From a roaring reception at Union Station they (and their dainty Pekinese pug) were whisked away in a new Auburn Silent Sedan on a whirlwind tour of the Western and Eastern Proms, past Monument Square and the Longfellow House, to The Expo. There, the custodians were still sweeping the floor when Valentino grabbed a broom and joined in. A regular guy, the janitors grinned. Mrs. Valentino was something else. “Winifred Hudnut Shows Who’s Boss at Rehearsal,” said the Express when the actor missed a dance step. “Two tiny French slippers stamped […] two slender hands slapped in irritation […] Mrs. Valentino 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

told him that in penance for his stupidity he must practice alone until he could pass safely past the stumbling point.” Valentino “sweeps women to his feet, but does not play ‘The Sheik’ in his own home,” the paper noted wryly. “Miss Hudnut rules that.” Promptly at 8 p.m., The Expo filled to the rafters with rapturous fans. The lights dimmed, and Valentino’s traveling orchestra–all dressed as gauchos–crashed into the tango from The Four Horsemen. “Miss Hudnut,” reported the breathless paper, was “gorgeous in a long full gown of black velvet, with a brilliant red shawl draped about her. In her hair were two red flowers and the hem of her skirt was outlined in the same brilliant tone. “Valentino, scarcely an inch taller than his beautiful wife, wore black velvet trousers bloused into his boot tops, a shirt of deep cream, and under the heavily studded leather belt, a knotted crimson scarf that

“Valentino sweeps women to his feet, but does not play The Sheik in his own home–Miss Hudnut rules that.” –The Portland Evening Express

hung gracefully at his side. “Adding atmosphere were the silvermounted quirt hanging at his wrist and the heavy-handed knife stuck in his belt at the back, Spanish fashion.” Bowing to thunderous applause, Valentino then judged a competition of Portland’s best tango couples (won by Miss Cora Dame and Albert Leavitt) and then, smoothly, turned to the bevy of blushing young beauties breathless before him. “He spoke with but a slight accent,” reported the paper. “His voice is deep and full. Swarthy of complexion with narrowed dark eyes, he looks off stage very much as he does on the screen.” Launched to stardom A hush fell over the huge hall. Valentino’s dark eyes scanned the eager faces. A pause, and with a nod and a slight touch on her shoulder, fame suddenly fell on Dorothy Appleby. Neither Valentino nor Appleby ever said why–perhaps it was cosmic–but in that instant, in an explosion of applause, delighted screams and swooning, the door to Dorothy’s future swung open. Valentino never spoke a word onscreen but had plenty to say at the Expo, pointedly, about the kind of films that had made him famous.

mineralava; portland public library digital commons; image provided by herb adams

The Portland Exposition Building was built in 1914 at a cost of roughly $81,000. It is the second-oldest arena still in operation in the United States; (right) “Dark eyes, with dark curls down her neck,“ as the Express described her, Dorothy Appleby dazzled Hollywood in 1931, after she signed a contract with MGM; (left) Mineralava Beauty Clay.


“I speak in behalf of the motion picture business, a new comer in the world of art,” he declared. “Seventy-five percent or more of the pictures produced today are a brazen insult to the public intelligence. “If I continued to appear in such travesties as The Sheik, I would feel that I betrayed the trust of the American public…I say this to you for I know I am speaking to a race of people not too proud to fight, and that quits when the job is finished and not before.” Valentino’s appeal to Yankee pride was “enthusiastically received, and his dressing room was thronged by persons eager to get a last glimpse of the two dancers before they disappeared.” And into the night they did, Boston bound, trailing applause like a comet tail. Alas, Valentino never returned to Maine. Divorced in 1925, he died tragically young in 1926. But Dorothy Appleby was just beginning. Although she did not win the 1924 Mineralava crown in New York City, Appleby had seen the bright lights and never turned back. Landing ingénue roles on the Gotham stage, she smoked in public, drove fast cars, survived one suicide attempt (perhaps staged) and three husbands. In Hollywood she found success of sorts, appearing in small roles in 60 films, including Stagecoach (1939), directed by Portland’s own John Ford); and tworeel shorts with Buster Keaton (1940) and The Three Stooges (1941-1942). But her Valentino moment remained her longest and fondest memory. Perhaps not the first official Miss Maine

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“Landing ingénue roles on the Gotham stage, [Appleby] smoked in public, drove fast cars, survived one suicide attempt and three husbands.” –the modern scholarship pageant, preliminary to the Miss America competition, dates itself to 1935–Valentino’s touch moved her out of mortal time. When Dorothy Appleby Drake passed on in 1990, aged 84, her proud obituary said it all: “Miss Maine of 1923…Valentino’s choice!” n winterguide 2017 53



Everyday Sommelier

Better Together alexander raths

With a lovely blended wine, the sum is always greater than the parts, resulting in a ‘luscious complexity’.

W

by Ralph He rsom

ith romance on our minds at this time of year, it only seems fitting to favor wines that couple up their grapes. Although blended reds have been produced around the world for centuries, they are a relatively new phenomenon here, with more and more

shelves dedicated to the hybrid wine varieties. Blends are made from a combination of grapes, each adding its own unique element to the finished product. The result is a wine with greater depth and complexity that you just can’t get from any one grape–think of it like adding spices to cooking. winterguide 2017 55


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A blend of equal parts Merlot (adding plummy richness); Cabernet Sauvignon (flavors of black currants and a tannic backbone); and Sangiovese (hints of red fruits, acidity) three grapes grown in the Italian region of Umbria, Vitiano Rosso is a beautifully balanced blended wine. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and aged in French oak barrels for three months before bottling, the process adheres to winemaker Riccardo Cotarella’s philosophy of meticulous winemaking. The result is a delicious, youthful red that would pair perfectly with red meats or a winter stew. For under $10 a bottle, Vitiano Rosso shows us that variety is the spice of life. Le Charmel Syrah-Grenache ($12) from the Rhône Valley in France is a blend of 70 percent Syrah and 30 percent Grenache. Most Southern Rhône wines are usually dominated by a majority of Grenache, so this particular wine is unusual and exciting in its composition. The richer Syrah proportion ensures a deeper color, great aging potential, and an elegant flowery fragrance, while the Grenache lends smoothness, rich fruit notes, and a certain spice to the wine. The grapes are destemmed and vinified separately before undergoing a cold maceration prior to the actual fermentation in order to extract a deep color and intense, pure fruit flavor. Fermentation lasts two to three weeks under a controlled temperature. The wine is then aged for six months in concrete tanks prior to bottling. The Le Charmel paired with herbes de Provence crusted lamb chops is a sure way to impress your date on Valentine’s Day. n

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A Queen

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In Maine, traditional clogs carry a deep historical resonance, especially in our Franco-American community. It’s nothing less than the sound of freedom. B y Rhea Côté Robbins

“A

h ah ah! Vivent les sabots de bois!” So goes the traditional childhood rhyme, “C’etait Anne de Bretagne,” written in celebration of the 1491 marriage of King Charles VIII of France and Anne of Brittany, nicknamed the “duchesse en sabots” or “the duchess in clogs.” Des sabots or sabot. There is a deep attraction, like symbols buried in the DNA, in recognizing one’s ancestors in a pair of wooden shoes and in oneself. My romance with this traditional footwear means a lifetime of searching for the perfect pair to wear. Clogs or sabots come in many fashions, the more recent for me, my Danskos. Legends

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Revolution

T

hese innocuous wooden shoes have even scuffled their way into the his-

tory of the resistance movement. The

French word “sabot” forms the root of the

English word “sabotage.” Wooden footwear was common to peasants all over Europe.

When country dwellers were shipped into

cities to replace the thousands of striking factory workers during France’s Industrial Revo-

lution, they became known as “saboteurs” for their clunky, noisy footwear. Wikipedia claims the word “sabotage” came from acts of protest that involved the workers throwing their shoes into machines to halt progress. Translator Michael Bell of the ‘Je Parle Americain’

blog suggests the word actually referred to claims of slow and inefficient work by the

substitute laborers. In turn, the factory workers made use of their shoes as a resistance tactic against their employers. They would

work, but they’d make their demands heard

by deliberately bungling the job. Vive la resis-

“I haven’t seen Mom smile this much in years.” “As Mom aged, we thought it best if she stayed in her home. We were wrong. Even with hours of home care, Mom wasn’t thriving. She needed more. She especially needed more socialization—not isolation. And more reliable care too. So she made the move to Scarborough Terrace. She truly loves her elegant new home! Life is more complete with lots of friends and activities, chefprepared meals, daily care, medication management, and even transportation to appointments and outings. I visit her often, so I know Mom is happier and more relaxed now… and I am too. We only wish she’d moved sooner.” Call Elizabeth today! 207.885.5568 or visit ScarboroughTerrace.com

600 Commerce Drive Scarborough, ME 04074

about the wooden clogs flame the imagination about the secret lives of shoes. France’s economy of the 15th century dressed the rural population in sabots as the most practical footwear for the farm. My own love affair with sabots began as a teenager in a New Hampshire gift shop. My collection over the years has included some form of the clog–noisy, modern shoes walking on the curb towards the stories of my heritage, like the comptine of an ancient queen who wore clogs. Whether real or fantasy, all become part of the stories that were not told and only stumbled upon later in life. Unconsciously, my love affair with sabots ties my existence in a pair of weathered, wooden shoes to the present, ancient self. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains,’ and editor of Heliotrope-French Heritage Women Create.

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Anthony’s Italian Kitchen, offers homemade Italian cooking using the freshest ingredients, featuring favorites such as pizza, pasta,and sandwiches. Voted “Best in Portland” for three years. Dine-in and catering services on offer. Beer and wine available. Open 11-8 Mon. through Sat. 151 Middle St #5, Portland; and new location Cumberland County Courthouse, 205 Newbury St. anthonysitaliankitchen.com, 774-8668. Bayside American Café (formerly Bintliff’s) owned and run by Joe & Diane Catoggio since 2003. The menu includes delicious items like house-made smoked salmon, corned beef hash, crab cakes, sandwiches, salads, Benedicts, and more. Come and discover why customers love Bayside American Café. Breakfast, brunch, and lunch are served daily starting at 7 a.m. 98 Portland St., Portland, 774-0005 baysideamericancafe.com. Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511. Bueno Loco offers a unique Mexican experience in Falmouth. We use only the freshest ingredients and make the best house-infused margaritas! Open daily for lunch and dinner. Happy hour 4-6 p.m.. Live music Thursdays 6-9 pm. Kids’ menu. Dine in or take out. Plenty of free parking! View our full menu at buenoloco.net. 240 U.S. Rt. 1, Falmouth, 619-7057. Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days, 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com. DiMillo’s Now through December, relax and enjoy Head Chef Melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. Every day, she offers something new and delicious. Try our Early Dinner Specials, Monday-Friday or our wonderful Port Side Lounge, Portland’s getaway for grown-ups. Happy Hour includes special menu Monday-Friday, 4-7p.m. Open daily at 11a.m., Commercial St., Old Port. Always FREE PARKING while aboard. 772-2216. Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the Old Port. Perfect for meetings and special occasions. Ingredients from Maine’s waters and farms. The seasonal Ice Bar is ideal for outdoor dining. Happy Hour Mon. - Fri.; free valet parking. Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com J’s Oyster is a premier seafood destination and locals’ favorite with indoor and outdoor waterfront seating on one of Portland’s scenic piers. Established in 1977, J’s offers classic favorites and friendly service. Coastal Living claimed J’s


Restaurant Review

West End Story

A neighborhood staple for nearly a decade, Caiola’s continues to offer Italian intimacy under new ownership.

Photos by Corey Templeton

by Dian e Hudson

W

e arrive at Caiola’s on a weekday night in the West End. Immediately we’re enveloped by its relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, lively and full of patrons. With great delight we take in a colorful, wall-sized painting, Abby Shahn’s “Night Quilt” that welcomes diners with vibrant color into this charming neighborhood hideaway. Our server, Wren, who worked with Caiola’s former co-owners Lisa Vaccaro and chef Abby Harmon prior to its being sold to Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez (who also own the Piccolo on 111 Middle Street) in June 2016, tells us the painting belongs to Harmon and will eventually be reunited with her. We look forward to seeing what Sansonetti winterguide 2017 63


Dining Guide

• Full Time/Part Time Nannies • Hotel Babysitters • Emergency/On-Call Services • Babysitting List Subscription • Temporary Nannies • Newborn Nannies All of our nannies and sitters have been through our extensive application and screening process.

one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” Find us on Facebook. 772-4828 Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves Asian cuisine with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese, or hibachi tables. Private party rooms accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items prepared before your table. Family friendly; open Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. to 11 p.m., Sat. 1 p.m-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.9:30 p.m. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com. Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 $22.95. Tue.-Sat. starting at 5 p.m. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com. Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com. Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill An upscale sports bar serving creative pub food in a fun and comfortable atmosphere. Known for some of Portland’s best casual food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Located in Portland’s historic Old Port. 774-6044, rivalriesmaine.com Solo Italiano Traditional northern Italian cuisine mixes Maine freshness with Genovese flavor frm international chef Paolo Laboa. Enjoy the crudo bar or the daily changing menu. Included in Food & Wine Magazine’s 2016 “What to Do in Portland, ME.” Open daily 5 p.m–10 p.m. 100 Commercial Street Portland, 780-0227, soloitalianorestaurant.com *reservations recommended

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

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q S E R V I N G S P E C I A L A C C O U N T S and Lopez choose to take its place. We peruse the eclectic menu, starting with the many reasonably priced drinks. We decide on Geary’s IPA ($4.50) for him and the Classic Negroni ($10) for me. The perfectly balanced blend of gin, Campari, and sweet vermouth with an orange twist proves a pleasing accompaniment to our first course–tender Louisiana shrimp atop whole-grain toast, ricotta, marinated celery, and fresh watercress ($10). A very generous appetizer.

diane hudson

N

ext up is the yellowfin tuna ($26), a plateful of perfection. The slightly seared medallions melt in our mouths, along with an enticing concoction of cauliflower, baby artichoke, watermelon radishes, and brown butter with smoked paprika oil. “This is the best fish I think I’ve ever had,” declares my companion. The friendly Wren even chats about how we might prepare this ourselves at home. Proceeding with the more robust “porterhouse” lamb loin ($26), we find another winner. Garnished with rosemary, the tender lamb chops are served upon a bed of Maine heirloom beans with sweet local carrots. The entree is accented by sips of Super Tuscan Sangiovese ($34). The wine list here will get your Maine winter travel dreams in gear, conjuring visions of sun-baked vineyards in Greece, Portugal, Spain, and Italy. But wait. Why leave when you can savor one of the most exquisitely simple desserts imaginable? The crème de la crème of cream puffs ($8) is their pâte à choux pastry filled with rich vanilla cream and topped with exquisite salted caramel. All this and an adjoining parking lot–as rare as gold dust in Portland. Truly a dream come true. n Caiola’s, 58 Pine St, Portland. Open daily. Mon.-Tues. 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Wed.-Sat. 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. 772-1110 or caiolas.com.

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By Olivia Gunn

t starts with the Facebook post­–a beaming couple, a sparkling rock, and the words, “We’re Engaged!” Or, for those minimalist pairs, a subtle relationship status update will suffice, shocking the masses into praise and congratulations. But don’t get comfortable yet, lovebirds. You’ve got a show to produce. From hashtags to Snapchats, there are decisions to be made, photos to be taken, and a dance to choreograph. Will your theme be boho-chic, vintage farm, or traditional–but not too traditional, because who wants to be traditional anymore? This isn’t your Grandma’s wedding, dear. Before the big day We were engaged for less than an hour before the logistics came to light. “Who do you want to film it?” asked my older sister, wedding alumna, summa winterguide 2017 67


Maine Wedding Guide

cum laude class of 2013. “Film it? Is there a script?” Look, I’ve done some planning in the past, but coloring books and an Excel spreadsheet are two different realities. In the two months I’ve been wearing this ring, I can tell you planning Barbie’s wedding was a hell of a lot more reasonable. The expectations have changed, and the ideas are endless. One look at Pinterest and I was overwhelmed to the point of planning paralysis.

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y fiancé and I would like to spend as little as possible while still enjoying a party with our loved ones. But according to averages by the wedding planning site The Knot, a Maine wedding can run close to $30,000. Try suggesting that number to Portland-based wedding planner Laurie Andrews. “That’s what our clients are spending on décor!” she laughs. Thirty thousand dollars for flowers, candle-filled mason jars, and an aisle runner? But, as Laurie explains, that’s the reality. Though a great wedding at $30,000 is possible (along with paying off school loans and buying a new car), five to seven percent of “luxury weddings” weigh in at about $60,000, with one or two of her clients each year surpassing $200,000. “Brides and their guests want to have an experience. Going through all of the traditional [motions] is out. They want to be entertained, and for the day to be flowing.” Laurie suggests a magician to entertain guest between moments (think he can pull that $30,000 out of his hat?) or offering a special hashtag for guests to share on Instagram.

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Maine Wedding Guide

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A Maine Vineyard & Winery Handcrafting Award-Winning Wines In our case, a Liza Minnelli impersonator is out of the question because, in my mother’s words, “This isn’t art school anymore.” But have no fear; your wedding jackof-all-trades is here. Kevin Ouellette of Amazing DJ: Music, Sound, and Photography offers a “four-in-one wedding package.” Starting at $5,500, he’ll act as your wedding coordinator, photographer, DJ, and even throw in a photo booth. “You’re working with an audience that ranges from seven years old to 97 years old,” says Kevin. “You need to give your audience members what they want so they can give you what you want.” Of course, your guests want to see the two of you commit to your lives together (with the exception of cousin Troy, who just wants free drinks). But with access to millions of videos, songs, articles, and conversations in our back pockets, Kevin says there is no need for competition. “You go from bar to bar in the Old Port and have an entirely different experience every 25 minutes, so being in one or two places for five to six hours has become a challenge.” When Kevin works a wedding, he makes sure to create an atmosphere that encourages engagement and energy. This isn’t to say you can’t keep things simple. Offer a cocktail hour with the right music that’s sure to keep guests on their feet. Once they sit down, Kevin explains, the next thing they want is their meal. And most importantly, the couple needs to be accessible throughout the entire wedding.

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hile the guidance of a wedding planner is convenient, how many couples can actually afford one? We certainly can’t, and neither could Misty Coolidge. Planning her wedding in 2013, Misty dreamed of a barn venue but just

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winterguide 2017 71


couldn’t afford it. Today, as the owner of Coolidge Family Farm, she makes an offer many couples can’t refuse. “Brides ask me if they can plan a wedding for $10,000, and I say, ‘yes.’ That was my budget when I got married.” For that price, Misty offers an all-inclusive package covering the venue and farm house for three days, photography, a DJ, flowers, her day of coordination services, bar service, cake, and stationery design. Food for thought Now you’ve got your venue and your DJ, but you’re missing the caterer, and the last thing you want is cousin Troy dancing on an empty stomach, right? Today couples are rolling out the steak and salmon, revving up the experience, and wheeling in the food

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Maine Wedding Guide

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winterguide 2017 73


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trucks. Jack Barber of Mainely Burgers says that since they started in 2012, they’ve been booked for at least 20 to 30 weddings. “We’re starting to see couples realizing they can get the same services as you get from a caterer, but the food is made to order.” Instead of keeping guests seated at tables for two hours, let them take in the experience–let it add to the aesthetic. Erica Dionne of Muthah Truckah says the trend of having food trucks at weddings has “just exploded.” Muthah Truckah’s services typically start at $1,300 for 100 guests, allowing couples to design their own menus for the big day. “It really brings a fun, unique addition to the gathering, and it creates a relaxed and casual atmosphere.”

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elaxed, casual? Our wedding is about ten months away, and I’m starting to see the light at the end of the floral, tea-light-candle-lit tunnel. Even so, after talking with several vendors and planners, it’s clear that no one can answer questions quite like someone who has been (Continued on page 82)

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The Bethel area has the views to make your guests’ jaws drop and the facilities to make your day perfect and personal. Whether you choose a village inn, a stunning mountain vacation home, a grand ballroom, or a field with a hillside backdrop, your guests will be talking about your big day for years to come. All the services you need are available locally – venues, caterers, florists, tent and supply rentals, officiants, spas, and salons – staffed with friendly, helpful folks who want to make your wedding just right. Your guests will be able to enjoy a wide variety of lodging options, from small B&Bs to fine hotels. They’ll stay entertained with all there is to do in the area – hiking, fishing, golfing, cycling, skiing, paddling, perusing downtown shops, or getting pampered at a spa.

Learn more about these vendors and weddings at 800-442-5826 and www.BethelMaine.com The Bethel Inn Resort 800-654-0125 bethelinn.com

Good Food Store & Catering Co. 800-879-8926 goodfoodbethel.com

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NorthEast Charter & Tour 207-784-3159 or 888-593-6328 northeastchartertour.com

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Experienced

2017


Add a Little History to Your City Wedding Celebrate your special day at the historic Mechanics’ Hall, located in the heart of downtown Portland. The master craftspeople of Maine Charitable Mechanic Association built Mechanics’ Hall in 1859. Reserve this architectural gem for your 2017 wedding or event. The grand ballroom features original oversized windows and hardwood floors, and is a unique city destination where history meets downtown Portland.

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Maine Wedding Guide Oysters make everything even better. Hire us to operate our mobile oyster bar at your next occasion. Find more information on our website or contact us directly. www.Ooysters.com 207-632-7247 –Lucas

Wedding Zen (continued from page 75)

through wedding planning hell and made it out the other side alive and married. Shana and Lexie Diamond delivered their vows on December 3rd, 2016, at The Barn at Flanagan Farm, and despite going over budget by about $10,000, forgetting the cake topper, and choosing not to have a DJ, they still managed to have the day they’d dreamed of since getting engaged. “There’s a lot of pressure for it to be the best day of your life,” says Shana over a glass of red at MJ’s Wine Bar, where much of their planning happened. “But the reality is, if you’re there with the one you love, surrounded by all the people you love, it already is.”

S

Maybe the modern wedding has become more show than ceremony, but when you belong to a generation that has very little proof marriage actually works, it’s no wonder we want to celebrate like mad when we find that one person to prove us wrong. So however you plan to celebrate, however much you plan to spend, don’t forget that the two of you are soon to be of the few who believe in the oftentimes unbelievable–true love. Make it your day, make it meaningful, and don’t forget to take a #selfie. n 8 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

emily delamater photography

hana and Lexie (pictured below) are still coming down from their bigday high, and while the photos of the night are still flooding in as proof it actually happened, Lexie says, “It was all a blur until about two days ago.” Her advice to blushing brides feeling the pressure, be it from family, social norms, or themselves: “Take a breath, be present, and don’t forget to drink water and eat.” The two smile at one another as Shana squeezes Lexie’s hand. Though I’m simply the outsider looking in, you could say I have a bit of a contact high.


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On The Hill A tree grows on Atlantic Street.

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erched near the crown of Munjoy Hill, here is a charming evolution of the urban dream house, priced at $419,000. Built in 1864, No. 69 Atlantic Street Victorian is so enviably positioned it capures glimpses of Casco Bay from two different angles. It’s just a three-block stroll to views of Portland Harbor and Bug Light. Fancy the Eastern Promenade itself and its fireworks? On the second floor, if you crane your neck, you can see them above the rooftops toward the end of a street that cuts a sightline to the Prom. The dream has evolved from the whitepicket-fence cravings to the metro intimacy of easy walks to Lolita, Hilltop Coffee Shop, the Munjoy Hill Neighborhood Associa-

8 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

tion, and the Portland Observatory. There’s a sweet fenced-in back yard, and yes, to the left of the house, a narrow and precious driveway awaits your parking!

“The last surviving black walnut tree on the Hill” is in residence here.

“This is an estate,” says realtor Rita Yarnold. “Sadly, the mother died in August. One of the siblings is living here now.” Not to profile, but this place is going to be snapped up by new owners, likely “in

their thirties,” Yarnold says. “That crowd is interesting. There’s a split.” Some prospects just love the idea of restoring a house like this for their own use. Then there are the developers, in their thirties. I don’t like to use the word flip.” A third group “wouldn’t go for this at all. They have great jobs and need ‘move-in ready.’ Some are earning six figures, so they don’t have time for this.” Entering the generous foyer from the covered porch, the pleasing proportions of the interior make visitors feel at home right away. Immediately to the right is the salon. Opposite the mantel, the big attraction is the graceful bay window surmounted by blind lunettes. All of the historical energy–the presence of the house–seems to emanate from

from left: meaghan Maurice; courtesy bay realty

by Colin w. Sargent


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this focal point. It’s nearly floor-to-ceiling, as is the window facing Atlantic Street. Much of the Greek Revival trim of the house survives, as well as some built-ins in the pantry and upstairs in the linen closet. The soft signs of change can be traced here, too. Once, there was a pass-through from the salon behind the central stairway. Its trim still exists on one side. The hardwood floors will look great with refinishing. A number of the rooms, including the dining room, kitchen, and a bedroom, still fascinate with the original tin ceilings since disguised by a drop-ceiling. The three bedrooms upstairs have lovely angles and alcoves. Upstairs, prospective buyers are going to exclaim, “Look at this clawfoot tub!”

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leah brown

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hat sets this house apart” from other adorable Victorian fixer-uppers on the Hill is, “its systems are in such good shape.” The roof is “newer–15 years old. The boiler is from 2003,” safe inside a brick and fieldstone foundation. Windows have been updated. There is blownin insulation. The second floor has a full bath, with room for a second bath in a number of places. The last time the house received an update seems to be in 1971, when the sellers moved here. “Some places are pretty much the way…it’s pretty 1970s,” Yarnold says. This includes the kitchen with pine cabinetry. But no matter how you look at it, this place is cute to the bones and will look great in a hurry. For the sentimental: “The last surviving black walnut tree on the Hill” is in residence here.” n


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New England Homes & Living

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This is the waterfront family compound you have been looking for! A 2 bedroom, waterfront cottage on the Cathance River, plus a 1 bedroom upland camp currently used about 9 months of the year. There is room for upgrading and/or expanding, or enjoy them just the way they are! The cottages are situated on 2.73 acres of land with a great sense of privacy and wooded serenity, with easy access to the vibrant town of Bowdoinham. Experience the arts, farmer’s market, summer concerts and more. The Cathance River flows to Merrymeeting Bay. What could be better? $299,000.

Property and privacy 5 miles from downtown Brunswick! This open concept home offers marsh frontage and ever-changing views of Woodward Cove. It has been updated from top to bottom, with hardwood floors, gas fireplace and wood stove, granite and stainless steel in the kitchen, and cathedral ceilings in the living and dining rooms. The first floor master bedroom/sitting room suite has wood floors and a fireplace. Plus, there are beautiful perennial gardens and a yearround studio cottage to inspire you! $699,000.

Enjoy ocean views from every window with sunrise views to the east towards Bailey Island or sunset views to the west from Freeport to Cape Elizabeth from this renovated home on a private road. In addition to the work that has been completed on the home, extensive landscaping has been done around the home and a 135' granite seawall and staircase added for access to the waterfront. $799,000.

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Fiction

Why I Hate the Promenade by Doug B ost

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was 22 when my girlfriend started noticing my hearing problem. She and I had been dating since I was 17, in high school in Orono. She was in college. We broke up over Christmas break, but then we got back together. And then, right before I started school at NYU, she broke up with me for another guy, and that was the end. Until–two years later, she moved to New York. And we started dating again. And when that happened, it was kind of wonderful. It was just like we imagined it back at Orono High–two kids from Maine, making it together in the big city. Then she started noticing that this problem with my hearing was getting more and more pronounced. So I didn’t tell anybody, but I went to a specialist. I was ready for bad news. The doctor did a number of tests, and then he sat me down and asked me how I

knew I had a hearing problem. And I said my girlfriend told me I’m not hearing her very well. Sometimes she has to repeat what she says three or four times before I hear it. Even then sometimes I’m just pretending to understand. And he asked me if I had this experience with other people, and I didn’t answer. And then he told me my hearing was fine. It was diagnostic confirmation of something I already knew, really. So one night I met her after work, and I told her I still thought she was a wonderful person and I cared for her, and maybe I was making a terrible mistake but…this was it. And she asked me if I hated her, and I said of course I didn’t. And she asked me if I never wanted to see her again, and I said that wasn’t it at all. And then she said, “What about the

dance lessons?” And I said, “What dance lessons?” “I told you all about it,” she said, which was probably true. It turns out just a few days before I made my decision, she’d done something we’d always talked about. She signed us up for a couples ballroom dancing class. It was a gift to me. To us. But now everything was different and she wiped her eyes and she nodded seriously and said she understood and she didn’t know what was she going to do about these damn dance lessons, but it would be okay, and I said, hang on. They’re just dance lessons. I’ve always wanted to learn. We both have. Let’s do it. But y’know who takes couples ballroom dance lessons? People who are about to get married. We were the opposite of that. Lesson one was like dental surgery. But winterguide 2017 93


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Fiction everybody was awkward that first week. Everybody except that couple who dressed like Spanish dancers. Elaborate outfits, billowing sleeves. The instructor had a tiny little mustache and kept correcting my posture. He walked us individually through the basics of the foxtrot, and then we paired off. Her favorite part of the foxtrot was the promenade. Slow, slow, quick, quick, together. But I couldn’t keep it in my head. I kept nipping the front of her shoe with my foot during the first back-and-forth steps, and then I’d look down and I’d realize I should never look down and by then I’d stepped on her other foot, probably, and before I could re-focus she’d started the promenade without me so my slow-slow steps were like tripping up an escalator and she would nod at me reassuringly while whispering the steps, and I’d tilt my head at her at that, I’d give her a smirk because come on, I didn’t need the steps whispered at me after all this time, but then boom, I clipped her left toe again, goddamn it, and I missed the transition to the promenade and I’d have to wait for the music to come around again. My hands were pushing and prodding her waist like I was feeling for a benign lump. It was bad. In the fourth class, we broke into different pairs. We had to dance with other partners. In the movie version of this story, this is where we’d briefly fall in love with other people before realizing our true feelings. In reality, I was paired with a really graceful crazy-cat-lady and later the front of my sweater was covered with hair. My ex had been paired with one of the Spanish dancers and seemed to love it, but I saw his partner later that night making fun of her by pretending to lumber around clumsily. So I accidentally knocked that woman’s coat off its hook and stepped on it. After one of the later classes, my ex and I walked to the subway together. Something had been funny, I forget what, and we were laughing, and I asked her if she wanted to get a piece of pie in the diner and she just looked at me, so disappointed, and said, “You broke up with me.” And I apologized, and she told me I wasn’t taking her seriously, and I went home and wrote this whole long thing in my journal about what an ass I was. And what a good dancer it turns out she was. And eventually, the last class came around.

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My friends were saying I must be relieved, but the truth is I was looking forward to these Sunday classes. More and more, it was just reassuring to know when I was going to see her again. Tonight we had to show how much we’d learned, one couple at a time, everybody else watching. So class began, and in the center of a circle of the soon-to-be-married or at least soonto-be-in-a-wedding-party, somebody made a joke and she laughed and I put my hands exactly where they needed to go but not like a textbook, more like an instinct, and we did that previously impossible foxtrot, turned the same way when we had to, and reversed the same way when we had to, and when we got past the spot that was always the rough spot, we kept going. Step, step, together. I definitely clipped her foot, at least once. But as it went on I got kind of flushed with the parts of it that were working, and she was flushed, too. And our music ended, and people clapped. And then the Spanish couple did some semiprofessional routine that was actually very charming and the guy kissed her at the end of it and you could tell they were really crazy about each other. nd then it was over. She and I got our things and said goodbye to a few of the other people we’d gotten to recognize, and lingered as we headed for the door, as I thought about how close she lived to the dance studio, and I thought she looked very pretty in this dress, and then we had our moment with the instructor and his tiny little mustache at the door. He shook our hands and smiled, and we told him how much we’d gotten out of the lessons and how much we thought we’d improved, but he wasn’t saying much. He just kind of nodded. “We’ll definitely keep working on our steps,” I said. Which I meant, when I said it. But it got absolutely no reaction from either of them. I realized my smile was kind of pasted on, I’d been smiling for a while, but now that I actually looked at her, she seemed more serious than I thought she’d been earlier. And the dance instructor raised his eyebrows, kind of like there was nothing more he could do for us now. And he thought about saying one thing but he didn’t say it, and then he said, “You just weren’t listening to each other.” n

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Doug Bost is a writer and a terrible dancer who grew up in Maine and now lives in Brooklyn, NY.

Jamie Hogan

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