Portland Monthly Magazine February/March 2017 by portlandmonthlymagazine

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M a g a z i n e

Cover PHoto by joshua FranCis FroM leFt: ParaMount PiCtures; CHad latHaM listingtunnel.CoM; M. MauriCe

31 shelter&Design

15 Love in Bloom: New England Garden & Home Shows 31 At the Top of the Market Imagine owning one of these stunning oceanfront mansions, including a palace being sold by Maine summer resident Louise Tefaafana Murfey, one of the Tahitian actresses in the 1962 movie Mutiny on the Bounty. By Colin W. Sargent

49 Maine Coast, Low Cost Seriously? I can buy this oceanfront fixer-upper for less than $225,000? By Kate Odden

81 House of the Month “Deering High Style” By Colin W. Sargent

84 New England Homes & Living

Personalities

53 Portland After Dark: “Cover Me”

Discover Maine’s tribute bands, up-close and personal. By Olivia Gunn

Maine liFe

13 Maine Classics 20 Experience 25 Chowder

PersPeCtives

FooD&Drink

27 L’Esprit de l’Escalier

Charting Portland’s hot spots of charcuterie is a zesty adventure. By Claire Z. Cramer

8 From the Editor 10 Letters

“Consider the Tomato” By Rhea Côté Robbins

58 Searching for Maine in the Nation’s New Attic

Don’t let the distance fool you–Maine’s stake in The Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History & Culture is close, real, and vital. By Colin W. Sargent & Sarah Moore

96 Flash

65 Alluring Curing

73 Everyday Sommelier

“The A-List”– OK, so tell us: which restaurants are offering the best wine choices? By Ralph Hersom

76 Dining Guide 77 Restaurant Review

Sichuan Kitchen delivers the down-to-earth Chinese food you’ve been craving. By Diane Hudson

art&style 93 Fiction

“The Shirt” By John Manderino Cover: Pardon Me, Doug performs at Port City Music Hall. Photo by Joshua Frances. February/MarCH 2017 7

February/MarCh

M a i n e ’ s

PORTLAND

WESTBROOK

Editorial colin W. sargent, editor & publisher

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appy March! On March 26, 1898, Assistant Secretary of the Navy Theodore Roosevelt changed Maine’s nautical history with the stroke of a pen. Sir.–It is the intention of the Department to assign the monitor Montauk, Lieutenant W. M. Irwin, U.S. Navy, commanding, for duty in the harbor of Portland, Maine. This monitor is now at the navy yard, League Island, Pennsylvania, and the Department requests that volunteers of the Naval Reserve of New Jersey be detailed for duty in connection with bringing this monitor from League Island to Portland. Reading between the lines, Roosevelt is simply drumming up Navy reservists–with a tour aboard a famous ironclad in Vacationland as his reward. Not to mention that the future president, a repeat summer visitor to many of the attractions of our state, had a soft spot for the coast of Maine himself. Built by John Ericsson in 1862 in Brooklyn, New York, the Montauk was legendary for destroying the Confederate blockade runner Rattlesnake, trapping her upstream in the Ogeechee River during the Civil War. The single-turreted Passaic-class ironclad also figured in the withering bombardments of Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie in Charleston, South Carolina. Lincoln assassin John Wilkes Booth’s body was spirited aboard the Montauk, which maneuvered into the center of the Potomac River to keep his body parts from being made into grisly souvenirs. See our story in July/August 2005 by Matthew Jude Barker. Roosevelt ordered the Montauk here to Portland Harbor as part of a coastal defense reconfiguration. It didn’t hurt that Montauk made a great recruiting tool, just as this summer’s “Navy Tour” will be when it takes over Portland Harbor this summer. This Brooklyn girl’s Maine vacation spanned from May, 1898, to March, 1899. Maine Historical Society’s photo of the Montauk is not far from where DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant is today. Old ironclads never die. They just wind up in the Old Port, cruising for a parking spot.

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Maine’s City Magazine 165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 www.portlandmagazine.com Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com ART & PRoducTioN Nancy Sargent Art director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice design director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com AdvERTiSiNg Nicole Barna Advertising director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Ryan Hammond Advertising Executive ryan@portlandmonthly.com Grant McPherson Advertising Executive grant@portlandmonthly.com EdiToRiAl Sarah Moore Assistant Editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Olivia Gunn communications director olivia@portlandmonthly.com Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Jason Hjort Webmaster Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ AccouNTiNg Eric S. Taylor controller eric@portlandmonthly.com iNTERNS Bailey O’Brien, Willis Kuelthau, Kate Odden, Emma Bartlett, & Tyler Starks

SubScRiPTioNS To subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews.

Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric Taylor.

Newsstand cover date: February/March 2017, published in February 2017, vol. 32, No. 1, copyright 2017. Portland Magazine is mailed at thirdclass mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (iSSN: 1073-1857). opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, october, November, and december. We are proudly printed in the uSA by cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 65 American graphic design Awards presented by graphic design uSA for excellence in publication design.

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It Must Be love Great article, Olivia! [See “Wedding Zen,” by Olivia Gunn, Winterguide 2017] Misty Coolidge, New Gloucester Fresh FroM the KItchen Your article “The Gastronome’s Guide to Planet Maine” [by Sarah Moore, Winterguide 2017] is amazing. Such a beautiful piece. Thank you! Bryna Gootkind, Falmouth Grown & sexy [Regarding our story on The Congressman, directed by Jared Martin and Robert J. Mrazek, “Maine On Screen,” December 2016] Thank you for a beautiful job on your part, and for your insightful and evocative questions and analysis. [The Congressman] is going to be featured [in AARP magazine’s Movies for Grownups®] in few weeks. The magazine goes out to 37 million members. Hopefully some of them will download our film and get a better sense of the allures of Maine. Robert Mrazek, New York Congratulations to Monhegan Island’s Robert Mrazek, the screenwriter and co-director of The Congressman. Here is AARP’s announcement list of distinguished winners.–Ed. The 16th Annual Movies for Grownups® Award Winners are: Breakthrough Achievement: Robert Mrazek (The Congressman)

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Best Comedy/Musical: La La Land

Best Picture: Loving

Best Grownup Love Story: Margo Martindale and Richard Jenkins (The Hollars)

Best Actress: Annette Bening (20th Century Women)

Best Documentary: The Beatles: Eight Days a Week

Best Actor: Denzel Washington (Fences)

Best Intergenerational Film: 20th Century Women

Best Supporting Actress: Viola Davis (Fences) Best Supporting Actor: Jeff Bridges (Hell or High Water) Best Director: Kenneth Lonergan (Manchester by the Sea)

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dding Nice Day for a #We

Best Screenwriter: Kenneth Lonergan (Manchester by the Sea)

Best Buddy Picture: Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley (Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie) Best Time Capsule: Jackie Best Movie for Grownups Who Refuse to Grow Up: Kubo and the Two Strings Best Foreign Language Film: Elle (France)

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Yes, We Don’t Sell Earmuffs Farmington’s Chester Greenwood patented the earmuffs 140 years ago. The savvy fifteen-year-old was inspired by his hatred for cold ears and an allergy to wool. According to The Wall Street Journal, “Greenwood’s ears were so sensitive that they turned chalky white, beet red, and deep blue (in that order) when the mercury dipped.” So do we rush to L.L. Bean to celebrate? A member of the sales team says there are “no earmuffs in stock at the Freeport store.” We can’t find a single pair online. What gives, guys?

TH r EATE N iN g

y n n e L

Andy Verzosa is passing the torch as director of Ogunquit Museum of American Art to curator Michael Mansfield, who comes to Maine from the Smithsonian’s American Art Museum. So what’s next for Verzosa, a founder of Portland’s First Friday art Walk? “I will be moving back to join my husband David in connecticut and begin a job search. Meanwhile, I’ll continue my work with WMPG, Maine historical Society, the Tides Institute and Museum, and Langlais Leadership Team for the Georges river Land Trust. you can take the man out of Maine, but you can’t take Maine out of the man!”

After half a century overlooking Route 302, an iconic 13-foot-tall TV repairman has become a key player in a local development debate. Built by musician Al Hawkes in 1962, Lenny “The Walking Man” may soon be listed on the National Register of Historic Places, thanks to a bid by current owner Bill Umbel and local historical societies. If successful, Lenny would be eligible for ongoing maintenance support–but a landmark designation may also serve to block a roundabout construction proposal. In a blog post, Greater Portland Landmarks declares it’s working “to gain recognition for the sign now threatened by a Maine Department of Transportation proposal for a roundabout at Duck Pond Corner…”

PORTLAND ON THE MAP

A vintage hand-drawn map of 1920s Portland ($10.95) may soon adorn the walls of student dorms across the country, courtesy of Las Vegas online print seller Artscape Galleries. The provenance of the poster remains somewhat murky. Heather Magaw of The Osher Map Library at USM says, “Osher owns the original copy of this print. We certainly wouldn’t let some Ye Olde Map Shoppe print and sell 100 copies. ” February/March 2017 13

Traditions Worth Keeping.

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Garden & Home SHowS

Love in Bloom plants are getting ready to pop.

Home & Garden SHowS

Maine Home, Remodeling, & Garden Show, cross Insurance arena, portland. Feb. 18-19. newenglandexpos.com Connecticut Flower & Garden Show, connecticut convention center, hartford, connecticut, Feb. 23-26. ctflowershow.com 15th Annual Southern Rhode Island Home Show, ryan center, Kingston, rhode Island, Mar. 11-12. homeshows.com

FroM top: corey teMpleton; courtesy photo

Bath Antique Sale, bath Middle school, bath, Mar. 12, apr. 9. 582-5908 bathantiquesshows.com Townsquare Media Maine Log Home & Timber Frame Show, augusta armory, augusta, Mar. 1719. 92moose.fm/events 24th Annual Home & Leisure Show, Mount blue high school, Farmington, Mar. 18. 778-4215 franklincountymaine.org

The Maine Home Show, androscoggin bank colisee, lewiston, Mar. 18-19. mainehomeshow.com Boston Flower & Garden Show, seaport World trade center, boston, Mass., Mar. 22-26. bostonflowershow.com Western Massachusetts Home & Garden Show, eastern states expo, West springfield, Massachusetts, Mar. 23-26. westernmasshomeshow.com BDN Maine Garden Show, cross Insurance center, bangor, Mar. 24-26. bdnmainegardenshow.com The Maine Flower Show, thompson’s point, Mar. 29apr. 2. maineflowershow.com Rhode Island Home, Flower & Garden Show, rhode Island convention center, providence, rhode Island, Mar. 30 - apr. 2. ribahomeshow.com 47th Annual Bangor Home Show, cross Insurance center, bangor, Mar. 31 - apr. 2. homeshows.com Bridge of Flowers Opening, shelburne Falls, Massachusetts, apr. 1. bridgeofflowersmass.org

Seacoast Home & Garden Show, Whittemore center arena, Durham, new hampshire, apr. 1-2. newenglandexpos.com 48th Annual Portland Home Show, portland expo, apr. 7-9. homeshows.com The Maine Photography Show, boothbay region art Foundation, boothbay harbor, apr. 8 - May 12. 633-2703 mainephotographyshow.com Daffodil Days Begin, blithewold Mansion & arboretum, bristol, rhode

Island, apr. 15. blithewold.org/exhibits

Vermont Home & Garden Show, champlain Valley expo, essex Junction, Vermont, apr. 22-23. vthomeandgardenshow.com Pioneer Valley Home Show, three county Fairgrounds, northampton, Massachusetts, apr. 29-30. homeshows.com Falmouth Kitchen Tour, Falmouth. see some of Falmouth’s loveliest kitchens–it’s an annual tradition, May 5-6. mainekitchentours.com

ing, south portland, May 14. smdhs.info Mayfair: Northern New England Home, Garden, & Flower Show, Fryeburg Fairgrounds, Fryeburg. 300 booths plus beer, wine, & cheese tasting, May 19-21. homegardenflowershow.com Annual Plant Sale, Wolfe’s neck Farm, Freeport.

Annual Plant Show, sMcc horticultural build-

Blooming Marvelous

The Maine Flower Show

Green-thumbed portlanders will surely welcome a new addition to the horticultural calendar. Following the cancellation the Portland Flower Show in 2016, Don sproul, executive director of Maine landscape and nursery association (Melna), saw “an opportunity to step in, fill a void, and showcase the industry.” cue the inaugural Maine Flower show at thompson’s point from March 29 to april 2. the weekend flower festival will consist of 16 display gardens from local landscapers, food vendors, crafts, educational classes, and horticultural inspiration. Visitors can “get wonderful ideas for their own gardens,” says sproul.

February/March 2017 15

Garden & Home SHowS

Gardeners’ World

Boston Flower and Garden Show, Seaport World Trade Center, Boston, March 22-26.

Replenish your garden with locally grown perennials, annuals, herbs, and seedlings, may 21. 865-4469, wolfesneckfarm.org lilac Festival, mclaughlin garden & homestead, South Paris, may 23. 743-8820 mclaughlingarden.org

annual Iris Show, auburn middle School, auburn, Jun. 11. irisgarden.org

Celebration of lupine, throughout the new

hampshire communities of Franconia, easton, Sugar hill, Bethlehem, Bretton Woods, littleton, lisbon, lincoln, north Woodstock, and Whitefield, Jun. 11-12. Find hidden franconianotch.org treasure at the Wells deer Isle lupine Festival, Antiques Fest. Deer isle. activities for all include trail walks, boat tours, puffin boat trips, airplane rides, art exhibits, a cake contest, and a pickleball contest, Jun. 17-19. deerisle.com

newport Flower Show, Rosecliff, Bellevue ave., newport, Rhode island Jun. 23-25. newportmansions.org annual Wells outdoor antiques Show and Sale, laudholm Farm, Wells, Jun. 25. 800-6416908 goosefareantiques.com

Hidden Gardens of Munjoy Hill, Portland’s east end. the annual opportunity to behold the hill’s flowers, Jul. 10. easternpromenade.org

Waterford World’s Fair, north Waterford. “the simple traditional essence of agricultural maine.,” Jul. 14-16. waterfordworldsfair.org

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The Deer Isle Lupine Festival includes music, food, a lobster dinner, raffle drawing, and pickleball contest! June 17-19, Deer Isle, Oddfellows Hall in downtown Stonington.

Visit us for updates on new merchandise, promotions and events!

Visit us for updates on new

Visit m eus r cfor handise, updates on new promotions and merchandise, events! promotions and events!Open Mon, Weds,

Unique, & Games Games for for All All Ages Ages Thur, Sat 10-6, Unique, Quality Quality Toys Toys & Open Mon, Weds,

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Oﬀering a wide selection that is constantly being Offering a wide selection that and is constantly being Offering a wide selection updated that is constantly being changed– Offering a wide selectionupdated that is and constantly being updated and changed — puzzles, books, puppets, changed — puzzles, puppets, Visit us on Facebook for updates on new puzzles, books, books, puppets, updatedmerchandise, promotions and events! and changed — games puzzles, books, puppets, gamesand and toys both indoors outdoors. toys forfor both indoors outdoors. games andand toysand for both games and toys for both indoors and outdoors. Monday through Friday 10 - 5 indoors and outdoors. 28Main MainSt., St.,Cornish Cornish • 207-625-3322 • atonceallagog.com • 207-625-3322 • atonceallagog.com Closed Tuesdays 28 28 MainSunday St., Cornish • 207-625-3322 • atonceallagog.com 10 – 4 28 Main Street, Cornish • 207-625-3322 • atonceallagog.com

Camden House & Garden Tour, camden. celebrating the club’s 100th anniversary. see some of the most lovely gardens and homes from the turn of the 20th century, updated for the 21st, including the club’s first president’s home in 1915, Jul. 20. camdengardenclub.com

20 Rooms of Casual & Comfortable Furniture, Mattresses and Accessories

Camden-Rockport Historical Society Antiques Show, camden hills regional

high school, camden, Jul. 22-23. goosefareantiques.com

Boothbay Harbor Antiques Show,

boothbay commons, boothbay, Jul. 29. goosefareantiques.com

Maine Antiques Exposition, thompson’s point, aug. 4-6. goosefareantiques.com Kennebunk Antiques Show & Sale, Ken-

boston Flower show; wells antique Fest (goose Fare antiques); courtesy photo

nebunk Middle schoo, 60 thompson road, sunday, aug. 12-13. goosefareantiques.com

76 Main St. Newcastle

563-3535

www.sproulsfurniture.net

Renovations with Character

Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, laudholm reserve, wells. More than 100 artisans, music, and food. sept. 9-10. wellsreserve.org Maine Antiques Exposition, thompson

point, oct.14-15. thompsonspointmaine.com

Maine Boat ShowS

The Portland Boat Show, portland sports complex, Mar. 2-5. theportlandboatshow.com

Augusta Boat Show, augusta civic center, augusta, Mar. 10-12. augustamaine.gov

Maine Boatbuilders Show, portland sports complex, Mar. 24-26. portlandcompany.com/boatshow 15th Annual Maine Boats, Homes, & Harbors Show, harbor park, rockland, aug. 11-13. maineboats.com/boatshow

Garden CluBS

Gorham Garden Club, the

gorham garden club “usually meets on the last tuesday evening

February/March 2017 17

More Loans. More Choices!

Camden Garden Club

Maine’s oldest garden club is celebrating its 102 birthday! Camden Garden Club has a rich horticultural history an beautiful local gardens. This year also marks the club’s 70th Annual House & Garden Tour, taking place around Camden on July 20. camdengardenclub.com.

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1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

mar. 28: “gardening for the Birds,” First parish Church, 1 Church street, gorham. apr. 25: plant, pick, preserve, First parish Church, 1 Church street, gorham.

longfellow Garden Club, the longfellow

garden Club was “created in 1924 to promote and maintain the longfellow garden on the

stephanie mathews

Own It!

of the month with the exception of July and august” at 7 p.m. at the First parish Church, 1 Church street, gorham. Dues are $15. the club maintains the Baxter museum garden, the monument garden, and the welcome to gorham sign.

Garden & Home SHowS campus of the Maine historical Society in downtown Portland, Me. The colonial revival Garden was completely replanted in 2009 following construction on the brown Memorial Library. The garden is located behind the Wadsworth-Longfellow house, the childhood home of henry Wadsworth Longfellow.” Feb. 14: Woodfords congregational church, 202 Woodford Street, 11 a.m. “Gardening Forever: adaptive Strategies to ensure Lifelong Gardening” presented by ellen Gibson of Maine agrability. Mar. 14: Woodfords congregational church, 202 Woodford Street, 11 a.m. “Ornamental Grasses in Garden Design” hosted by heidi Lumia of hutchins house Ornamental Grasses. reservations: LongfellowGardenclub@gmail.com

Cape Elizabeth Garden Club, “Founded in 1948, the club maintains the gardens at the Keeper’s house of the Portland head Lighthouse in cape elizabeth.” Mar. 7: “enjoying house Plants” with Mary Mixer from Skillins Greenhouse, Thomas Memorial Library. For information on more of maine’s garden clubs, visit maineGardenClubs.org.

February/March 2017 19

ExpEriEncE

David Driskell, Renewal and Form at the Center for Maine Contemporary Art in Rockland, opens March 11.

Colby College Museum of art, 5600 mayflower hill dr., Waterville. in the studio: picasso’s Vollard Suite, through feb. 8; rivane neuenschwander: zé carioca e amigos (Zé carioca contra o goleiro Gastão), through mar. 18; no limits: zao Wou-ki, feb. 8 - jun. 4. 859-5600 colby.edu

ThEaTEr

Children’s Museum & theater of Maine, 142 free st. stage stories, daily; 828-1234 kitetails.org Good theater, st. lawrence arts Center 76 Congress st. Love Letters, through feb. 25; The May Queen, through feb. 26.; The Trip to Bountiful, mar. 29-apr. 30. 885-5883. goodtheater.com Maine State Ballet theater, 348 u.s. rte. 1, falmouth. Swan Lake, mar. 24- apr. 9. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org portland Stage Company, 25 forest ave. play me a story, every saturday; Winter in narnia, feb. 20-24; Buyer & cellar, through mar. 26. 774-0645 portlandstage.org public theater, 31 maple st., lewiston. Wrong for Each Other by norm foster, mar. 17-19 & 23-26. 782-3200 thepublictheatre.org

GaLLEriES

art Gallery at University of new England, 716 stevens ave. john eide: land sea stone

photographs, through apr. 2. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery Center for Maine Contemporary arts, 21 Winter street, rockland. david driskell, renewal and form, mar. 11- may 11; mark Wethli, piper Club, feb. 11- may 14; sam Cady, parts of the Whole, feb. 18- may 21. 701-5005 cmcanow.org Bates College Museum of art, olin arts Center, 75 russell st., lewiston. phantom punCh: Contemporary art from saudi arabia in lewiston, maine, through mar. 18; martin puryear, prints, through mar. 18; rona pondick and robert feintuch: heads, hands, feet; sleeping, holding, dreaming, dying, through mar. 23. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum

Farnsworth art Museum, 16 museum st., rockland. andrew Wyeth: maine temperas and Watercolors, through mar. 5; andrew Wyeth: the dory, mar. 17; american treasures from the farnsworth, through oct. 29; Celebrating maine, through oct. 29. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday art Walk, downtown portland. visit local galleries, studios, and museums, feb. 3, mar. 3. artwalkmaine.org Greenhut Galleries, 146 middle st., portland. abstraction invitational, feb. 2-25; march exhibition, mar. 2-25. greenhutgalleries.me

Bowdoin College Museum of art, 1 bath rd., brunswick. the temptation of saint anthony , through mar. Rolling Stones’ former backing singer Ms. Lisa Fischer takes the spotlight with Grand Baton at State Theater, March 25.

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Cutting-edge choreography comes to Westbrook Performing Arts Center with BodyTraffic, March 18.

Just Us Chickens Gallery, 156 state road, kittery. artists of the month: metalsmith glynis dixon and painter Carol Whalen, feb. 4-28.439-4209 justuschickens.net Ketchum library art Gallery, 11 hills beach rd., biddeford. robert pennington: Zero nos desplezados de colombia, photography in black in white, through mar. 1. une.edu/artgallery Maine College of art,522 Congress st. Collective actions ii, feb. 1 - mar. 3; unloaded, mar. 16 - apr. 14; 2017 mfa thesis, may 12 - jun. 2. 699-5025 meca.edu/events Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress st. beer in the garden: temperance and prohibition, feb. 21; intro to mhs: library tour, mar. 1; beer in the garden: vintage fashion accessories, mar. 21. 2017; 774-1822 mainehistory.org

Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington st., bath. open shop every monday; through these gates: maine shipyard photography 1858-2016, through sept. 24. 443-1316 mainemaritimemuseum.org

Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress st., portland. first friday artwalk, feb. 3, mar. 3. mainejewishmuseum.org portland Museum of art, 7 Congress sq., portland. the mistress and the muse, through june 4; the thrill of the Chase, through apr. 3. 3-775-6148 portlandmuseum.org

MuSic

Blue, 650 Congress st. Comedy night, every mon.; acoustic jam, every tues.; irish music night, every Wed.; dark hollow bottling Company, every third sun. of the month; fat knuckle fred, feb. 7; rj miller, feb. 11; kyle hardy, Chris klaxton, scott kiefner trio, feb. 18; 7744111. portcityblue.com

from top: Christopher duggan; david driskell Courtesy of the Center for maine Contemporary art; djeneba aduayom

19; brunswick. sosakuhanga: twentieth Century japanese Creative prints, through apr. 16; modern medieval: materiality and spirituality in german expressionism, through jun. 4. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/art-museum

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Cross Insurance arena, 1 Center St. Panic! at the Disco, Feb. 26; 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com

portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 temple St. tRVP nite, every Sun.; Funky mondays, every mon.; Wednesday happy hour with the Working Dead, afro Beat music night, every Weds.; live music mon. through Sat. 805-0134

dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St. trivia night, every tues.; acoustic open mic, every Wed.; Jazz happy hour with travis James humphrey and guests, every Fri.; live music Wed.Sat. every week. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St. the Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun; Karaoke night, Feb. 15, 22; hannah Daman & the martelle Sisters, mar. 9; Butterfly effect Feat: Joe nice, mar. 11; see website for more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com Merrill auditorium, 20 myrtle St. Beethoven & Rachmaninoff’s Seconds, Feb. 14; Sgt. Pepper’s lonely hearts Club Band at 50, Feb. 25-26.

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Regina Spektor will brings her impressive vocals to State Theater on March 9.

842-0800 porttix.com one longfellow Square, 181 State St., larry Campbell and teresa Williams, Feb. 16; molsky’s mountain Drifters, Feb. 25; the the BanD Band, mar. 3; lennie gallant, mar. 7; Fódhla and matt & Shannon heaton, mar. 17; Poppa Chubby, mar. 24; an evening with Johnny a, mar. 25; martin Barre of Jethro tull: acoustic and electric, mar. 28 - 29.

Ideas, inspiration and in-home demonstrations! mainekitchentours@gmail.com 207.229.3866 FKT PortMag Half Page 2017.indd 1

2 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com. onelongfellowsquare.com port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St. StRFKR, Feb. 13; BoomBox, Feb. 16; adam ezra group Chris Ross and the north, Feb. 24; troyBoi: the mantra tour, Feb. 25; Devendra Banhart, mar. 11; Johnnyswim, mar. 18; the Knocks: Feel good Feel great, mar. 21. portcitymusichall.com

portland Symphony orchestra, 20 myrtle St. Brahms Requiem, mar. 14; Beethoven lives Upstairs, mar. 26. 18842-0800 porttix.com portland ovations, merrill auditorium 20 myrtle St., Portland. Once, Feb. 8-9; alan Cumming Sings Sappy Songs, Feb. 18; the Philharmonia Quartett Berlin, mar. 19; ms. lisa Fischer & grand Baton, mar. 25 842-0800 porttix.com Space Gallery, 538 Congress Street, Portland. Jovencio De la Paz, Return

to great mother’s infinity, through Feb. 28. 828-5600 space538.org State theatre, 609 Congress St. Switchfoot & Relient K – looking For america tour Part ii, Feb. 11; Banff mountain Film Festival, Feb. 12-13; lake Street Dive, Feb. 17; the head and the heart, mar. 6; Regina Spektor, mar. 9. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Bob marley, Feb. 16; Junco, Feb. 18; matt andersen, Feb. 24; natalie macmaster and Donnell leahy, mar. 9-10; Release the hounds: an evening with Julian lage & Chris eldridge, aoife o’Donovan, mar. 18; alan Doyle (of the great Big Sea) and the Beautiful gypsies, mar. 25. 9357292 stonemountainartscenter.com

Friday, May 5 and Saturday, May 6 10:00AM–4:00PM Explore the finest kitchens of one Maine’s most desirable coastal communities. Visit mainekitchentours.eventbrite.com to purchase your tickets. A PORTION OF PROCEEDS TO BENEFIT:

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ExpEriEncE Sugarloaf, The Rack BBQ, 5092 access rd., carrabassett valley. The Mallett brothers band, Feb. 11; steve Jones & Friends (all night rascals), Feb. 17; roots, rhythm & Dub, Feb. 25; luke and Will Mallett with andrew Martelle, Mar. 02; Jason spooner band, Mar. 11; Galley rats celtic band – st Patrick’s Day, Mar. 17; Jon King Trio, Mar. 24; Pitch black ribbons, Mar. 30. 800-The-lOaF sugarloaf.com Waterville Opera House, 93 Main st. 3rd Flr., Waterville. no Man’s Land, Feb. 4; Amadeus, Feb. 11. 873-7000 operahouse.org

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coMEdy

Lincolns, 36 Market st. laugh shack comedy every Thursday. facebook. com/thelaughshack

Empire, 575 congress st. The couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every sun. see website for more listings. 747-5063 portlandempire.com State Theatre, 609 congress st. randy & Mr. lahey (from Trailer park Boys), Feb. 14. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com

FiLM

Frontier Cinema, 14 Maine street, Mill 3 Fort andross, brunswick. 2017 Oscar nominated shorts: animated, Feb. 10-16; Paddy Mills, Feb. 18; Appalachian odyssey, Feb. 23; The Kyle hardy Group, Feb. 25; 2017 Oscar nominated shorts: Documentaries, Feb. 25 - 26; insPireD: an evening of stories and Music, Mar. 2; variety show, Mar. 14. 725-5222 explorefrontier.com

Portland Youth Film Festival. i Know a Man… Ashley Bryan, Mar. 16-18. portlandyouthfilmfestival.com

TAsTy EvEnTs

Browne Trading Market, Portland. regular wine tastings MarchJune. 775-7560, brownetrading.com Leroux Kitchen, Portland. Free wine tastings on the 2nd saturday of each month, 1-3 p.m. 553-7665, lerouxkitchen.com Local Sprouts, 649 congress st., Portland. Music brunch with sean Mencher and friends, every sun. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 congress st., Portland. Tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11, wines paired with small

plates. 775-5652 lolita-portland.com Rosemont Markets, Portland and yarmouth. Free wine tastings and events every. 774-8129 rosemontmarket.com

don’T Miss

Worthy Wednesdays Benefit Dinners, David’s KPT, Kennebunkport. 10% of evening revenues are donated to a local nonprofit every Weds. through apr. 17. boathouseme.com PetSmart Adoption Event, PetsMart biddeford. cats, dogs, and puppies available for adoption, Feb. 17-19. animalwelfaresociety.org Cupid’s Night Circus,Thompson’s Point. cocktails, live music, and circus performances, Feb. 17-19. circusmaine.org

Animal Welfare Vacation Camp, 46 holland rd., Kennebunkport. camp for ages 7-12 focusing on animal care & connection, Feb. 21-24. animalwelfaresociety.org The Thrill of the Chase, 7 Congress Square, Portland. PMa reopening. samuel J. Wagstaff’s collection of photographs, through apr. 30. portlandmuseum.org Sunaana, brick south at Thompson’s Point. This two-day affair will be a special blend of music, craft beer, spirits, food, art, and other mind-popping exhibits all fused together to deliver a sensory experience, Mar 3-4. sunaana.com

–compiled by sarah Moore To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/ portmag/submit-an-event/

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Having lost the Portland Pirates, local hockey fans have a ray of hope. According to Lee Goldberg at WCSH6 TV, professional hockey may return to Portland via Comcast Spectacor, the company that owns the Philadelphia Flyers as well as the Cross Insurance arenas in Bangor and Portland. Spectacor “is discussing bringing an East Coast Hockey League franchise to Portland for the 2018-19 season,” says Goldberg. What might a new team be named? Tweet your ideas: @PortlandMEMag.

A Modest Proposal According to farmer Susan Frank of Washington, Maine, the best way to save her beloved and increasingly rare mulefoot pigs is…to eat them. The Livestock Conservancy counts just 500 mulefoots currently registered in the U.S. Frank believes getting trendy eateries hungry for mulefoots will boost breeding efforts. “I already sell to [Grace, Central Provisions, Local 188, Honeypaw, et. al.] and even down to Boston and New York City. Rosemont Market did an unofficial pork taste test…My mulefoot won.”

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“Is that you, baby, or just a brilliant disguise?” The 2017 ’Stache Pag [Mustache Pageant] will crown a winner from among its elegantly groomed contestants. “We’ve seen mustaches go from being a total dirtbag thing to being back in style,” says event host Nick Callanan. “We’ve had as many as 70 contestants.” Look for a catwalk and a “Facial Hair-aoke.” Portland House of Music, 8 p.m., March 24.

A TA TAsTe AAsTe Of A piece of rock ‘n’ roll history is going once, going twice– sold! Saco river Auction Co. recently dropped the hammer on a pink neon marquee from L.A.’s legendary Whisky a Go Go club for the sum of $48,000. Hosting the likes of Led Zeppelin and Janis Joplin during its 1960s heyday, the club entered the rock & roll Hall of Fame in 2006. “The winner of the auction wants to remain anonymous,” says auction house manager Troy Thibodeau. “But he told us to tell you he was a ‘multi-generational’ L.A. guy who spent many a day at The Whisky.”

Listening for siLence

Despite Martin Scorsese directing and a screenplay by Maine resident Jay Cocks (Gangs of New York, De Lovely), the lush historical biopic Silence has yet to conquer Bar Harbor–Jay Cocks’s summer home. Neither Bar Harbor’s Criterion Theatre nor reel Pizza Cinerama plans to screen the story of two Jesuit priests (Andrew Garfield and Adam Driver) on a mission to recover their lost mentor (Liam Neeson) from anti-Catholic persecution in Japan.

FEBruAry/MArCH 2017 25

A HISTORY OF GRACIOUS LIVING

About Us

Our experience in providing care for the elderly stretches back to 1854! Founded by civic leaders originally to house aging women, three to be exact, Seventy-Five State Street began a long tradition of expanding and providing quality health care services and housing for people in the Greater Portland area. Formerly known as the “Home For Aged Women”, Seventy-Five State Street was renamed in the early 1970’s when the entity was moved from Emery Street to its current locale on State Street. If you are coming to a point in your life where socializing with friends has become less of a priority due to the demands of home maintenance, shopping for groceries and getting to appointments.… you need to know about Seventy-Five State Street!

Our Community

We truly have a community of friendly, engaging and active residents. They will encourage you to make this your home too! The staff is here to provide you with friendly support as you negotiate your way into community life. Expect excellent attention and customer service.

Location

Located in the heart of Portland’s west end with views of the harbor, we are just steps away from the many amenities that beautiful Portland has to offer. Our in-town location is among the primary reasons that people choose Seventy-Five State Street. The location cannot be beat with easy access to some of Maine’s finest cultural facilities, religious institutions, hospitals, restaurants, shopping and the historic waterfront.

75 State Street, Portland ME 04101 • 207-775-7775 • www.75state.org

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Consider Stop and take a moment to anticipate the flavor of the changing seasons. B y Rhea Côté RoBBi n s

am looking east toward spring, or printemps, from the Latin tempus primum, literally meaning “first time, first season,” as a means of preparing for a new year. Every spring brings with it the sense of reawakening to the dawn of morrows. The gardeners begin to plan their plantings, waiting for the correct moment to lay the idea of a seed into the fertile earth. In our everyday haste, we do not often enough contemplate the time it takes to grow our daily foods. Automatically, as if by magic, a delicious feast apFebruary/March 2017 27

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Kaiseki: A Feast for the Senses

the ancient art of Kaiseki dining, or “ ”, meaning a special occasion, is Japan’s answer to haute cuisine. But even by michelin star standards, Kaiseki is an elaborate art. typically composed of 11 courses, the Kaseiki dining experience is described by CNN as “meticulously prepared, exquisitely served, and usually very expensive.” according to Wikipedia, Kaiseki has its roots in imperial and samurai traditions, developing over time into a formal dining rite that puts emphasis on omotenashi, roughly translated as “selfless hospitality.” these days, the Kaiseki chef has artistic license to push the boundaries of tradition, producing miniature masterpieces garnished with flowers and seafood. But the central vision remains: “an art form that balances the taste, texture, appearance, and colors of food. to this end, only fresh seasonal ingredients are used and are prepared in ways that aim to enhance their flavor.” the 11 traditional Kaiseki courses include: Sakizuke, Hassun, Mukōzuke, Takiawase, Futamono, Yakimono, Su-zakana, Hiyashi-bachi, Naka-choko, Shiizakana, Gohan, Kō no mono, Tome-wan, and Mizumono.

pears upon a plate. atching Chef’s Table, Niki Nakayama of n/naka restaurant mentions that it takes three months for a tomato to grow. She believes we need to take the time to appreciate the tomato’s effort to be here. To demonstrate this, Nakayama practices the “Kaiseki” dining experience, which she describes as “the traditional Japanese culinary practice that emphasizes the balance and seasonality of a dish”–not unlike the terroir of a French wine in which the elements of the environment, climate, and land can be tasted in the grapes. With this printemps–this new time– comes the opportunity to see our own bounties as gifts from time and place. Gifts given to us to savor and appreciate. We can choose to be the ones who pause to recognize the tomatoes in the earth, growing and ripening over time for a deeply rewarding burst of taste later. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains,’ and editor of Heliotrope-French Heritage Women Create.

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Northerly Paradise experience Brooklin at its most cinematic, with maine your Pitcairn island.

jim abts

his time of year, North Brooklin braces for razor cold and icy gusts across Blue Hill Bay. But once in a while we can be surprised by a sweet tropical breeze wafting gently through the pines. In Technicolor. Yes, in a happily-ever-after plot twist worthy of Hollywood, one of the exotic Tahitian actresses in MGM’s 1962 smash hit Mutiny on the Bounty wound up spending the last four decades here. Louise Murfey, nee Tefaafana, was hiding in plain sight in ”Boldwater," the house she and her husband built in 1980 at the shore's edge. Young Louise Tefaafana fell in love with tall, dashing Spencer L. Murfey Jr. “when he raced to Tahiti on a sail-

$7.8M february/march 2017 31

boat in the early 1960s," says Prin Allen, 86, the contractor who built Boldwater for the Murfeys in 1980. Louise had just begun dating the millionaire ocean racer and philanthropist when she was asked to join the cast of Mutiny On The Bounty as the love interest for Richard Harris.

arris was one of the mutineers. I was the girl kissing him on the beach,” she says in her musical voice, her English warmed by tones of Polynesian and French, Tahiti’s official language. “I am also the girl in the sinking boat, crying out.” Onscreen, Harris is all over her, but between takes, "Richard was a gentleman,” she says. Trevor Howard, who played Captain

3 2 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Bligh, may have been hard on his crew, to say the least. “But with us, he was fun!” When Captain Bligh sacrificed his dignity to please Tahitian royalty during a ceremony, “He danced like a monkey!” The movie was a triumph for brooding Marlon Brando and significant for his romantic life as well. Just as Spencer Murfey, 34, was swept away by Louise, Brando fell

stills from mutiny on the bounty - metro - goldwyn - mayer

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thE MainE advEntuRE “The first time I ever saw Maine was in 1975,” Louise says. “My husband loved sailing in a Hinckley, and we came to 3 4 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Maine for that.” Since he adored racing Hinckley yachts, these waters were the center of the universe.

nce in Brooklin, Spencer, the world traveler, cattle rancher, and board member at Corning Advisors, couldn’t resist stopping in to see his great aunt, who lived in a white Cape Cod barely 75 feet from the reach of the waves. Built around 1900, the place was already nicknamed “Boldwater.” The luscious environs and stunning views of Long Island with the peaks of Acadia National Park in the distance were magnetic for the Murfeys. When Spencer's great aunt passed away, they bought Boldwater from her estate. Almost Shaker-simple, the trim white

jim abts

in love with Louise’s castmember Tarita Teriipaia, who played opposite him in the movie. The friendship between the two couples deepened. “He was very nice. Very kind,” Louise says of Brando. “We were good friends.” When Louise and Tarita were chosen as two of three Mutiny actresses asked to come to Hollywood for voiceovers, editing, and polishing, “We saw Brando a lot there, too.” In so many ways, it was a wrap. Brando and Teriipaia’s marriage hit the rocks in 1972. Louise and Spencer are the lucky ones. Their marriage lasted until Spencer died at 75 in 2003.

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...About The Gatehouse cape was moved from its oceanfront perch to the entrance of the 38.6-acre tract. From that day forward, it’s been called instead, “The Gatehouse.” Then, with a Blue Hill architect, Spencer and Louise dreamed up the new Boldwater that stands today as the property for sale.

3 6 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

The story revolves around a young american expat, Cherry Carstairs. Besides, in Brooklin, the ocean is the show. Did Louise like yachting? “No. That was all my husband's thing.” Instead, she was intrigued by Maine against the sea. “Do you see where the swimming pool is, with the landscaping” that slopes down to the water? It’s almost grotto-like. Indoors, “I love the kitchen,” Louise says. When hosting family shindigs, her star is “Lobster. For some parties, friends would come from California.” "My favorite place is the sauna" in the master bedroom that looks over the water.

Did Louise ever visit the Bounty after 1962? Fate brought the ship here, too, as she often visited Maine and was here for repairs just before sailing down the Eastern Seaboard toward her doom. [See our story: “Mutiny on the Bounty,” April 2013.] “Not in Maine," Louise says. "But in the year 2000, the Bounty was in Australia, and my husband and I saw her. We were cruising on an ocean liner to spend New Year’s at sea. We started out of Paris [she pronounces it à la française] and went across the world to all kinds of places… Australia, Indonesia, finally to…Tahiti.” the lady in the White Cape Brooklin isn’t just famous for its boating. It’s famous for early 20th-century writers such as E.B. White and Boldwater's first noted owner/resident, Anne D. Kyle, who

from top: jim abts; smith college yearbook, 1918

ahiti is one kind of paradise. Boldwater is another. Built in 1980, this 14,375-square-foot, six-bedroom luxury retreat has “10 fireplaces, hand-painted murals, paneled library, generous windows, and attached solarium" where Tahiti bloomed under glass year-round. The listing sheet ticks off the “Guest Cottage, Gatehouse, oceanfront pool with pool house, apple orchard, enormous greenhouse, and dock.” There are five full baths, three half baths. Blue Hill may not be a major metropolitan market, but you have to wonder: Did community theatre directors ever shyly approach Louise and ask her to appear in one of their productions like Tell Me That You Love Me, Junie Moon or The Fantasticks? “No!” She laughs. “My husband thought ‘the movies’ just meant a bunch of crazy people. He swept me away just as I got started, and that's that.”

You can see forever. Louise and Spencer lived at Boldwater year-round, for roughly “15 years,” Prin Allen says. In 2003, she and Spencer moved to spend winters together in Palm Beach, but he passed away. “I was last in Maine in November,” she says. Lately, she’s been up here largely during the summer.

April 6, 1945

“Miss Kyle Discovers Literary Maine” Anne D. Kyle speaks to a Palm Beach audience about Maine writers:

he different flavor of offshore life has been caught in island stories–Rachel Field's rare little volume, God's Pocket, Winter Harbor, by Bernice: Richmond and The Weir, by Grace Moore. ˮOnly one person down our way,ˮ Miss Kyle said in conclusion, ˮcan put his neighbors in a book and make them like it.“ That one is E. B. White of the New Yorker, and author of One Man's Meat. –Louise Prouty in Winter Park Topics, ˮA Weekly Review of Social and Cultural Activities During the Winter Resort Seasonˮ

For the full text including her comments on Harriet Beecher Stowe, Sarah Orne Jewett, Laura E. Richards, Kate Douglas Wiggin, Gladys Hasty Carroll, Mary Ellen Chase, and Katherine Butler Hathaway, visit archive.wppl.org/wphistory/newspapers/1945/04-06-1945.pdf

ES ★ BE D

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spent her winters in Palm Beach and her summers in the little white cape that was moved from its perch overlooking the sea to became known as The Gatehouse. She did exceptional work at Boldwater. Who was the mysterious Anne D. Kyle? She was a Newbery Honor-winning author. In 1938, as a member of Brooklin’s summer colony, Miss Anne D. Kyle (Smith College, '18), she found her voice here. Just as the September 1938 hurricane swept in, her new novel Red Sky Over Rome (Houghton Mifflin, Boston) hit the bookstores. Set in 1849, with the vivid background of Garibaldi fighting to make Italy a republic, the story revolves around a young American expat girl, Cherry Carstairs. She befriends Grazia, her landlady’s niece, who has “a twin brother who joins up with

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Rea l e stat e Garibaldi’s army,” according to Kirkus Reviews. “The three young people are in the midst of revolutionary activities, and the situations in which they find themselves make exciting reading, full of color of the Italian countryside. A thread of mystery runs through the story–the confiscated villa, the lost opera.” The review goes on to praise Kyle’s “gift of storytelling.” Another of Kyle’s Italian tales is The Apprentice of Florence, published in 1933 by Houghton Mifflin. The year is 1453. Nemo, just 16, becomes indentured to a silk merchant from Florence. A business trip whisks the characters to Byzantium in an atmosphere rich with murder and intrigue. Behind it all: Will Byzantium (Istanbul today) be taken by the Turks? Spoiler alert: Bet on the Turks. As for Kyle’s white cape, “It was strictly a summer cottage, built with spacious rooms,” says Prin Allen. “Years ago, there was quite a colony on Long Island,” visible from the cottage’s front windows. “An old steamboat used to go back and forth to the island from a departure point just below her house.” What a lovely ride. Boldwater: 38.6 acres, $7.8M. Taxes are $27,056.

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Re al estate

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Dark Star

ancy a place with a pedigree? Just a 20-minute ferry ride off the Maine coast, noted architect Fred Savage designed “Dark Harbor” on Islesboro in 1896. Situated on 117 Jetty Road, the Colonial Revival showpiece has a grand double staircase and an oval dining room. How many of your friends have a Renaissance knot garden?

4 0 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

“Relations of the Astors of Titanic fame owned this property for a number of years. Their friend Buckminster Fuller often visited and was known to have regaled children with many stories," say current owners Kerry and Bruce Claflin. “When the home was run as an inn, many notable people attended. As Charles Kuralt, the TV announcer who had a show

about the byways of America, wrote, ‘I’ve often thought if someone were coming to visit America for the first time, I’d send them to…Islesboro Island, where there’s a great Victorian inn called Dark Harbor House, a gracious place with no phones, and fireplaces in all the rooms.’” There are “196 feet of tidal shorefront on Ames Cove with a kayak launch and gravel beach.” The lot is just over four acres. “In 2011/12, the current owners commissioned a complete restoration/renovation, starting with a new foundation and ending with top period furnishings and landscaping.” The current owners are staying on the island but downsizing. Imagine yourself enjoying “Gin and tonics on the circular porch overlooking the beautiful cove.” Dark Harbor: 4 acres, $4.275M. Taxes are $20,439.

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Re al estate

Hidden Agenda

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f you desire something secluded and snazzy, 1 Sea Street in Rockport is a gorgeous part of the world your family can tie up to. From the ma-

hogany library to the “media room, exercise room, wine cellar, dock, and 860 feet of harbor frontage,” this is luxury with an exclamation point. 4 2 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Towel down from laps in your pool and enjoy stunning views of Rockport Village’s Inner (and Outer) Harbor, as well as Indian Head Light. Behind all of this are vistas of Mt. Battie. For that touch of réalité, watch the yachting traffic working around the scuffed-up, raw-knuckled “red buildings of Rockport Marine.” Sellers David and Nancy Holmes are relocating to Falmouth. Their feelings when pulling into the driveway here? “Complete privacy, waterfront, amazing design, and craftsmanship.” Built in 1999, this seaside showcase is in no way a raw, open-wallet concept. Instead, the design is a thoughtful evolution of the Maine Cottage, deftly built on the “largest tract of land in the harbor.” 1 Sea Street: 4+ acres. $6.95M. Taxes are $96,482.98.

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R e al estate

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Pasadena East

Camden's affectionate copy of the Gamble House in California is an attraction all its own.

n Pasadena, California, one of the most mesmerizing National Historic Landmarks is the Gamble House, designed in 1908 for Procter & Gamble tycoon David B. Gamble by architects Henry Mather Greene and Charles Sumner Greene. …Wouldn’t it be something if they built a house like that in Maine? On our side of the Continental Divide, the near replica is in Camden, set high on 23 acres of Mt. Battie with soaring views of Penobscot Bay. The land was bought in 2007 by Joseph D. “Dyke” Messler, Jr., the great-grandson of the founding Gambles who built the Pasadena house. By 2012, Messler’s “homage” was complete. Listed for $9.7M, this sentimental journey has been featured by The Wall Street Journal: “Mr. Messler, 67, says he was inspired by his family’s history.” The Gambles didn’t become famous for being shy. They know their branding. They brought us Crest toothpaste, Bounty paper towels, Head & Shoulders, Pampers, Febreze, Dawn, Tide, and on and on. We always think of Bob Kraft of Gillette as owning the New 4 4 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

(Left) The Gamble house in Pasadena and its echo in Maine, designed by architect Dominic Paul Mercadante (right).

The land for the quasireplica was bought in 2007 by Joseph d. “dyke” Messler, Jr., the great-grandson of the founding Gambles of Procter & Gamble. England Patriots, Gillette Stadium and all. Procter & Gamble owns Gillette. So Dyke Messler is candid when he tells us the feeling he gets when he pulls up to

135 Mountain Arrow Drive. “The views of Penobscot Bay through the old-growth white pines are staggering– from the Rockland Breakwater [to] Owls Head Light, Matinicus, and the Havens. The early morning and late afternoon light are especially captivating, lighting the trees and the garden in an ethereal way.” This striking location lured him because

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“According to local lore, this area was a favorite spot for native Americans.” Who doesn’t love a dazzling view? “The buildings are well anchored to the land–one of the hallmarks of the Greenes.” There is a sense of genius loci up here. Which doesn’t hurt when you want to decompress. “The oceanside terrace is a great way to relax with a glass of wine. It takes in views of both the mountains and the sea and overlooks colorful gardens and a vanishing-edge swimming pool. A fire pit takes the chill off cool evenings, and a water feature provides a tranquil spot to unwind at the end of the day.” The Pasadena place dates to 1908, but this ‘homage’ is hard-wired to download the moon. “While the house is contemporary, it also reflects the exquisite craftsmanship of an earlier era. No expense has been spared to capture the flavor of the past while creating a residence that uses the technologies of the present, including solar and geothermal. The residence is fully automated, and all systems can be operated from an iPad or iPhone.” Looking for privacy? Check. It “abuts february/march 2017 45

r ea l e state 5,000 acres of state park.” Do you crave that feeling when you walk inside and see the buttery paneling? Absolutely. As for why the family is letting this go, “We are selling in order to move to a smaller property.” Procter & Gamble has its jingles. “Gillette. The Best a Man Can Get.” “Look, Ma, No Cavities!” “Bounty–the Quicker Picker-Upper.” A possible slogan for this mountain Shangri La? “Yours. If you dare and Please you can.” Gamble House Replica: 23 acres. $9.7M. Taxes are $56,987. n

201

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R ea l estate

With more miles of coastline in maine (3,478) than california (3,427), this spring is the perfect time for deal hunters to own a slice of paradise on maine’s waterfront. Let’s travel to five bargain-basement oceanfront properties for under $225,000. B y Kate Odden

Canadian Mist f you’ve ever dreamed of running away to Canada, here’s how to do it without a visa! In Eastport, you can open your curtains to a foreign country every morning. This three-bedroom, twobathroom home on the eastern shore of Moose Island is just a stone’s throw from the Canadian border. Gaze across the expanse of Passamaquoddy Bay to New Brunswick’s Campobello Island, former playground of the Roosevelt clan, with Nova Scotia not far beyond. Built in 1897, 173 Water Street was once “the Eastport Gas Company and a general store,” according to Barba-

courtesy photos

$185K

ra Wilson of Due East Realty. Listed at $185,000, the residence has undergone extensive renovation, including major work on the foundation, windows, and roof, all to make it a “healthy and cottage-like” home. Set on a postage stamp of land (.08 acres), the house nonetheless faces straight onto beachfront. The neighboring public boat launch and ferry landing keep you in touch. Inside, the house feels spacious thanks to an open-concept floor plan, cathedral ceilings, and picture windows placed for giant sea views, including “a view of at least six islands from the dining room table.” Taxes are $1,455.

$129.5K

PeaCe On the PennaMaquan f you dream of a home nestled on Maine’s craggy coastline without the exposure to merciless Atlantic conditions, drive as far east as roads will allow and seek sanctuary in this twobedroom, two-bathroom steal at 1 Hardy Point Road in Pembroke. Tucked into a nook of Cobscook Bay, where the Pennamaquan River meets the ocean, the $129,000 cottage has gray cedar shakes and flashes of springtime lupine rushing the waterline of this .62-acre property. Built in 1900, the dwelling has seen extensive renovation in the past 30 years: “The owners bought it as a vacation home, an escape from work, but they found themselves increasingly putting more work into it until it was all basically redone,” says Jessica Thompkins-Howard of Due East Real Estate. Both the large living room and sunroom, which extend out from the house, benefit from wall-to-floor windows, allowing you to take in the river and tree-lined bank opposite. Taxes are $1,593.

february/march 2017 49

Re al estate

BuCkminsteR palaCe aterfront property in Boothbay is intriguing enough, never mind the fact that this twobedroom, one-bathroom bungalow opens out into a geodesic dome, popularized by Maine’s own Buckminster Fuller. Laura Blake at Newcastle Realty says the dome section arrived in 1970 “as a kit […] that when placed together looked like a spaceship.” In 2004, this spaceship/bungalow was updated, with the current owners renovating to create “a new kitchen, bedroom, and entry room, enlarging the deck to enjoy the 205-foot waterfront [...] while still keeping the cathedral ceilings and charm of the dome.” Situated at 68 Tamarack Trail, the property includes 1.9 acres overlooking the St. George River as it flows into Muscongus Bay, extended by access to an “association dock and float, and land frontage on Knickerbocker Road for a potential building.” With private waterfront property and a bit of Boothbay radical chic for only $189,000, one thing is clear: there’s no place like dome. Taxes are $1,769.

Chalet We danCe? et back from the road in a private, quiet setting with room for walking and a place to launch small boats”–you almost wouldn’t believe current owner Tora Johnson when she tells you the address of this chalet is 2189 U.S. Route 1, Sullivan. A professor of geography and marine studies at University of Maine at Machias, Johnson and her husband, Chris, a traditional wooden boat builder and commercial fisherman, lived on a lobster boat before purchasing these 2.9 acres off the Mount Desert Narrows, designing their “dream home” in 2004. The contemporary twobedroom, one-bathroom structure has an open-concept floor plan showcasing both hardwood floors and high ceilings with exposed beams. Equipped with well-placed windows to assure solar gain in the winter, along with “timber frame construction, nearly all of it from Maine-harvested lumber,” this home boasts green credentials. Listed for $225,000, this getaway features a yard ringed by trees and over 390-feet of tidal frontage on Long Cove, a small inlet of saltwater, “home to the rocky remnants of a mill dam.” As you look out across the cove through the large picture windows, keep an eye out for the neighborhood horde of “eagles, ospreys, and other seabirds.” Taxes are $4,076.

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5 0 p o R t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

$210K

$189K

Captain of the house or the first time since its construction over 150 years ago, the Captain Bennis House at 1960 Route 1 in Sullivan is on the market. Listed at $209,900, the eight-bedroom, seven-bathroom dwelling was built in 1875 for Captain Spiro Vuscassovich Bennis and his new bride, Elizabeth Hannah Simpson. Bennis, originally from Austria, fought in the Union Navy during the Civil War, most notably on the USS Gem of the Sea and on the USS Connecticut under Admiral Farragut. The dwelling retains an aura of 19th century grandeur thanks to original hardwood flooring, crown moldings, chandeliers, and curlicue iron curtain rods. A sun porch frames

courtesy photos

$225K

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Victorian SenSibilitieS f you have a taste for period features, this $125,000 four-bedroom, onebathroom relic in Eastport may win you over with its luscious Victorian-era detailing both inside and out, not to mention prime views across Passamaquoddy Bay. “It’s exceptional,” Barbara Wilson at Due East Realty says of 120 Water Street, with so many unique features that it’s generating “more bites than any of my other houses.” Set on .15 acres, the house invites you in with wood parquet floors, an elegant staircase, and a “sense of graciousness” granted from high ceilings and bright, open rooms. Considering the large bedrooms, “dramatic contrasts of paint,” and the kitchen’s tin ceiling and crown molding, Wilson says that it “almost feels like a bed and breakfast.” Just add scones. Whether or not you dream of opening a quaint B&B, this home’s 19th-century style and ideal location–just a short jaunt from the waterfront– could make your perfect Maine getaway. Taxes are $4,120.

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striking vistas across the water to Mount Desert Island. The surrounding 1.16 acres feature a separate carriage house containing two complete seasonal apartments. All of this for just over $200K? What’s the catch, we hear you ask! “Price was, and still is, our biggest challenge,” says listing agent Ryan Swanson. “The property is quite popular, but the layout is extremely non-traditional.” For instance, the fact that the house has four kitchens “doesn’t fit for someone that just wants a big house.” The “non-traditional” nature of the abode may lend itself to rental or seasonal letting opportunities–or simply a little distance from certain family members as a single-occupancy home. Taxes are $4,561. n february/march 2017 51

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Not Prince

cover me They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. These maine musicians channel icons for their day jobs.

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arvin Gaye and Tammi Terrell hit us where we live when they sang “Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing” back in 1968. From butter to Coca-Cola, we get it. But here in Portland, there’s no denying the tribute and cover band scene can draw a crowd.

the artist formerly known as… On April 21, 2016, Dean Ford awoke to condolences. “I was asleep, but my phone kept ringing and ringing. I finally answered, and it was a TV reporter asking me to come in to talk about Prince. I asked her

By olivia G un n

why, and that’s when I found out.” Prince, the artist Ford has echoed on Portland’s stages for many years, had died. In just a few days, Ford and his Prince tribute band, The Beautiful Ones, were expected to perform in Bangor and Portsmouth. “I didn’t want to ride the coattails of someone who’d just died,” Ford says. “But everyone kept saying, ‘People are going to need something.’” Ford took the gigs, even scheduling a last-minute show at Port City Music Hall, an emotional performance for local Prince fans. “I’d never looked out into a crowd before to see one person crying while anoth-

er was laughing and dancing.” It was a performance larger than himself, larger than a tribute. “It felt like a wake.” So what draws fans year after year to see The Beautiful Ones’ Halloween show, “Purple Brainz?” For starters, Ford doesn’t consider himself a Prince “impersonator.” When Ford performs, he gives it everything–unlike, he says, many of the Prince tributes he’s seen come to the stage in the past year. “They pop up everywhere. And it’s lit a fire under me, because they’re all awful. They throw on a wig, throw on the jacket, and half-ass their way through the music.” February/March 2017 53

Portland a f t e r da r k It’s possible that the striking physical similarities between Ford and “the Purple One,” on top of performances with Prince’s own keyboard player, Dr. Fink, have boosted Ford’s confidence along the way. But this isn’t just a hobby–this is his livelihood. The art of imitation doesn’t come without its concerns, however. “I’ve asked myself, do I want to have a career as another person? When I perform, I don’t perform as myself at all, and I’ve wondered if I’m going to lose myself.” Because just rendering a song doesn’t lift a crowd. It takes something more, and Ford has it. “Then again, I get to go on stage, I see people having the time of their life, and it fills me with happiness. I could play ‘Brown Eyed Girl’ for the rest of my life and be happy. But I’ll never, ever play ‘Wagon Wheel.’” Annual events like Purple Brainz, Beatles Night at State Theater, Tribute to Stevie Wonder with Kenya Hall & Friends, and the regularly scheduled Tribute 2 shows at Empire have become driving highlights of the city’s event calendar. Lucas Salisbury, Empire’s events manager, says the hype is all down to familiarity. “People like to sing along.”

The Comeback bands on the weekend when original bands are trying to draw a crowd.” ollowing a long absence, The Clash This season, among the new faces, look for of the Titans, a live series in which appearances from your favorite former-Emmusicians compete while channelpire musicians. Reneé Coolbrith will take to ing their favorite bands, returned to Emthe stage as Florence Welch of Florence and pire on February 15. “The community reThe Machine in April, and Colleen Clark ally missed it,” says Lucas. “A lot of local will perform as Fiona Apple in May and as bands developed out of the Clash shows. Miley Cyrus in June. They bring musicians together and ignite original projects.” Through June this year, Phit for a Tribute music-lovers can hear some of their favorWhile Clash of the Titans embraces evite Portland musicians, along with new pererything from hip-hop to pop, there are formers, for just $6. “It was common to some bands that just seem hear The Clash was cliquey,” says Salisbury. “So go“I’d never looked to speak to New England. Pardon Me, Doug formed ing forward, we’re going to out into a crowd in 2012 after Benjamin St. reach new talent and revitalize it.” before to see one Clair, Kevin Roper, Chris Chasse, and Cameron Gray Spencer Albee, creator person crying found themselves intrigued of The Clash and Beatles by the music of the VerNight, knows the reason bewhile another mont jam band Phish. “Evhind The Clash’s success. was laughing ery city has a [Grateful] “Top-notch musicians” have Dead cover band,” says St. a blast playing on a night and dancing.” Clair. (And Portland is no “they’d otherwise be at Rusexception–The Maine Dead Project plays ki’s or on tour.” According to Albee, The regular shows in the city). So St. Clair and Clash is unlike other cover nights “that use Roper decided to test their talents with the karaoke tracks” and “schedule their cover

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po rtl an d af t e r dar k complex songs of Phish. Phish has been a Maine favorite since the days playing at the Tree House Café [now Zen Chinese Bistro], so Pardon Me, Doug didn’t just stumble on any old fan base. Phish fans are “family with a ‘ph,’” Roper says.

CoMing: Soon

att Kennedy, who first saw Pardon Me, Doug at Clash of the Titans, has been listening to Phish since high school. He’s even been to 33 of their live shows. Now, Kennedy is trying to see every Pardon Me, Doug performance he can. “Every time Pardon Me, Doug plays a show, it’s like a mini-reunion for all the local ‘phans,’” he says. St. Clair and Roper admit they never set out to be the Phish tribute band, but when you’re featured in an Oregon State University online course entitled, “The Philosophy School of Phish,” you must be tributing the right way. On May 5 at Portland House of Music and Events, Pardon Me, Doug will celebrate its 100th public show, and they’re promising a big one. Maybe, just maybe,

the show will attract a special guest? Remember, there ain’t nothin’ like the real thing, baby. Jon Fishman, Phish’s drummer and Lincolnville resident, says that Pardon Me, Doug is the ultimate compliment. Asked if he’d ever consider sitting in with the band, Jon says “he might” but that the chances of “running into them at a gig are slim.”

I guess being in a band, running the Lincolnville General Store with your wife, and raising five kids can keep you busy. When he’s not on the road, Jon doesn’t get out much, preferring to hang out at home. “Maine is where my instruments live, but I like the woods, the space, the silence, and lack of traffic.” n

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Double take: National tribute acts are ready to rock Port City Music Hall. Start Making Sense will cover Talking Heads on Jun. 16; and Lez Zeppelin, an all-female Led Zeppe lin tribute band, will channel the songs and hairstyles of Robert Plant et al. on Mar. 30.

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February/March 2017 57

pers p ective

Searching for Join us on a journey to the national mall. no waiting in line. B y co lin W. sa r ge nt & sar ah Mo o re

e arrive in Washington, D.C. by train. It’s an eight-minute taxi ride from Union Station to the National Museum of African American History and Culture. The Washington Monument looms to our left. Our cab pulls up to the front door. We join a group of excited children in blue uniforms emblazoned Montessori Magnet School. The line moves incredibly quickly, contrary to all we’d heard. “You should have seen it last week,” our taxi driver says. When we tried to reserve our free timed passes three months ago, no advance spots were left for the day we were scheduled to arrive. We could have risked trying to get some same-day passes once we got into town, but on any given day we looked at the site, we saw they were sold out by 7 a.m. So on to eBay. The prices went from “$60 for four tickets or best offer.” Some re-sellers were asking as much 5 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

as $200 for two tickets. We ended up paying $40 for a pair. “Our tickets are for 3 p.m., but it’s 1:30,” we say to the lady at the gate. “Is there a place we can wait inside, or can we get some lunch before our time starts?” “Just follow them,” she says. “Once you’re in, you’re in.” Hungry, we take the escalator down to the cafeteria, which is divided into three tantalizing food geographies to begin our three-dimensional experience. Should we try “The Creole Coast” (shrimp and grits, catfish, gumbo); “The Agricultural South” (Brunswick stew, chicken and waffles); or “The Western Range?” I see a chef with dreadlocks. I say, “I’m from Maine. If I want to channel that, what should I order?” A big smile. “Beef brisket sandwich.” Okay! The food is wildly delicious. The vibe is upbeat, quietly triumphant, relaxed. We seat ourselves at the family-style table, and

everyone makes small talk. A quote from Langston Hughes shimmers on the wall. “They send me to eat in the kitchen when company comes, but I laugh, and eat well, and grow strong.” According to Gerald E. Talbot and H.H. Price in Maine’s Visible Black History (Tilbury House), Langston Hughes stayed in Maine at Ethel Goode Franklin’s guest house in Ogunquit during the production of one of his plays. “…Most of her guests were blacks.” In Old Orchard Beach, a destination attraction was “110,” for 110 Portland Avenue, which welcomed guests from Duke Ellington to Cab Calloway, Count Basie, and Harlem Renaissance poet Countee Cullen. In Kittery, vacationers loved Rock Rest. A single woman joins us. “Where are you from?” we ask. “California.” She looks around, taking in the excitement. “Well, it took over 100 years of try-

Maine

alan Karchmer/nmaahc

in the Nation’s New Attic

ing, and they finally got their museum.” They. This reminds us that we all have some work to do. The Museum’s galleries are deftly organized. Past at the bottom, future at the top. We start at the very beginning, Level C3, three floors below ground level, and see how the Triangle Trade worked, and still works. After all, Portland’s sugar refineries made us the sixth biggest port on the East Coast when people were enslaved. Was Portland part of that deadly Triangle? Of course it was, and the effects linger, the good with the painful. On the wall of a multimedia exhibit is a quote from William Cowper, 1788: “I admit I am sickened at the purchase of slaves...but I must be mumm, for how could we do without sugar or rum?” The variation of that I heard while growing up and going to Deering High School in Portland was, ‘The South is so

backward. We’d have never done anything like that here. And it’s not our problem, being so far north. There are almost no blacks here.’ None that ‘we’ had the eyes to see, anyway. African Americans have contributed so much to the making of everything we think of as American, and always have been a driving part of the making of Maine. The enslaved often weren’t listed on ship manifests. Freed men and Freemen were often not identified by race early on, and so shared invisibility. All Mainers benefited and therefore still benefit today. Maine’s very statehood was born of an ugly compromise that granted our admission to the Union at the cost of unrestricted slavery in Missouri. The KKK thrived here in the 1920s. None of this was taught in the classroom. As we walk through this magnificent new museum, brilliant in its evolution, another museum starts to take shape in our

heads–one that specifically showcases Maine’s history and Maine’s stake in it. Macon Bolling Allen, the first African American lawyer ever to pass the bar exam, lived in Maine. John Russwurm, the third African American ever to graduate from college, went to Bowdoin and was pals with fellow undergrads Longfellow and Hawthorne. He started the first African American newspaper in the United States, in New York. His house is across the street from Cheverus High School. The Abyssinian Church on the East End is of national significance. Clearly, Portland’s soaring prospects in the 19th century, built and barreled on the rum trade, were built on the backs of enslaved people as the Old Port shot up in the 1850s, and even when we rebuilt it so quickly after the Great Fire in 1866. The slave trade ensured Portland’s glory days. For a great historical novel featuring a Portlander’s African American point of view, read Pyrrhus Venture by William Dafebruary/march 2017 59

A Maine Sanctuary

vid Barry and Randolph Dominic. As we ascend level by level, there are tearful moments of recognition in this cathartic museum, because even as the screens shift with new revelations, the museumgoers themselves are thinking, changing. We learn that people who threw themselves overboard during the Middle Passage to escape enslavement were said to be “flying home” to the land of their birth. We are moved by a pair of child-sized shackles next to those of an adult. When we see a training aircraft used by the Tuskeegee Airmen (above), we are reminded of Eugene Jackson, who died in 2015. Born in Portland, Jackson’s family had been Mainers since the late 1700s. He graduated from Portland High School in 1941. James Sheppard, 92, a Tuskeegee Airman, grew up in Harlem. He lives in South Portland now. 6 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

There are exhibits about W.E.B. Du Bois, who came to Maine many summers to rest and study with fellow members of the Gun and Rod Club (see sidebar). Also up in lights is a copy of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, by Maine’s Harriet Beecher Stowe (see “Lasting Legacies,” opposite page). An eight-year-old is looking at an exhibit of three figures, from left to right, Booker T. Washington, Ida B. Wells, and W.E.B. Du Bois. His mother asks him, “Have you ever heard of these names? Do they teach them in school?” “No.” “Well, if you don’t know something, what do you do?” He pulls a cell phone from his pocket. His mother catches us watching, and we all smile. —Colin W. Sargent

Recognized as one of the greatest minds of his time, W.E.B Du Bois (1868-1963), the multi-talented writer, academic, scientist, activist, and the first black student awarded a Ph.D. from Harvard, sought sanctuary in Maine for two weeks every summer from 1933 until his death in 1963. One of the original founders of the NAACP, Du Bois became a member The Cambridge Gun & Rod Club in West Gardiner, a progressive interracial organization in its own right. Established by 1894, the club served as a kind of retreat for intellectuals of any race to relax and embrace nature. For Du Bois, who had been dogged by FBI investigations for years due to alleged Communist ties, the club served as an annual foxhole in which to retreat from the world for a time. James L. Brown IV, the club’s historian, told Portland Monthly in 2001, “Du Bois may even have come up with his famous concept of ‘The Talented Tenth’” beside the shore of Lake Cobbosseecontee. “Where else could a group of black intellectuals congregate and share experiences during a time when shadows of slavery itself darkened the national experience?” [See our story “The W.E.B Du Bois Files,” February/ March 2014 “Best of the Best” issue.]

CloCkwise from top left: alan karChmer/nmaahC; twitter; Courtesy photo; file photo; speCial ColleCtions and university arChives, university of massaChusetts amherst libraries

pers p ective

Lasting Legacies W

meet some mainers immortalized in the museum.

game changers hen exploring Maine’s black And after that? “We wouldn’t delay in advoA few days after Mahistory, one name appears time cating for so many more to be included.” con Bolling Allen and time again, an echo. GerWe asked their daughter Rachel Talbot passed the Bar exam ald E. Talbot’s work as an activist, educaRoss, a legislator and representative for Portin Portland, a reporter tor, historian, and the first African Ameriland, the first thing she’d want to see at the from The Brunswickcan member of the Maine House of RepMuseum. She is forthright. “Honestly? I’d like er wrote, “We think we resentatives has shaped our state’s social to see my father in the Museum. I find it hard have heard of a colored landscape for over half a century. to think of anyone else in Maine who’s conDanielle Conway, dean of physician somewhere at We asked Talbot, 86, and his wife, Anitributed so much.” UMaine School of Law the South, in New York, ta, what they’d most like to see in the new While Maine’s presence in the Museum probably, but we have never before heard of a Smithsonian museum. “As the parents of is profound, it is not yet definitive. Today, colored lawyer in this country” [Maine’s Visfour daughters, we’d like to visit any exhibit we celebrate the people of Maine who have ible Black History]. that focuses on the contributions of African earned their place in its halls and wait in anAs it turns out, the paper’s speculation American women. In particular, Fannie Lou ticipation for the inclusion of many more. was spot on. On July 3, 1844, Allen passed Hamer, Mary McLeod Bethune, and Haran examination that established riet E. Wilson. We’d spend time with him as the first African American each of these women individually. Breaking the Mold licensed to practice law in the U.S. We’d also feel proud to see those who When James Augustine Healy (1830“I can only imagine how difplayed a significant role in the devel1900) was ordained Bishop of Portland, he was also making history as the first-ever black ficult that would have been,” says opment of our own state: Tate CumRoman Catholic bishop in the U.S. Born into Danielle Conway, who in 2015, mings, Kippy and Harold Richardslavery on a Georgia plantation, the son of an over 130 years after Allen’s admisson, Eugene Jackson, William BurAfrican American mother and an Irish father, sion to the Bar, became the first ney Sr. and William Burney Jr., and Healy had grown up in a world where prejudice African American dean of UMaine all of the women who were members against both blacks and Catholics was rampant in the North and South. On both counts–his Law School. “Against a backdrop of the Mister Ray Club in Portland color and his faith–Healy was in the minority of of slavery, against all the symbols and the Carver Club in Bangor. Mainers when he became Bishop of all Maine of your supposed inferiority, you “We’d feel forever blessed to see these and New Hampshire in April of 1875, with have to stand up and prove yourextraordinary lives recognized. Their barely 50 priests in his huge diocese. [Portland self. You’re carrying the weight of sacrifice has been our collective reward.” Monthly, February/March 1999] february/march 2017 61

From The Greatest with Love

ewiston was a small mill town of a little over 40,000 residents when an event simultaneously described as “the fourth-greatest sports moment of the twentieth century” [Sports Illustrated] and “the biggest mess in sporting history” [NPR] landed in its midst. In May of 1965, two of the greatest fighters of the time swept into town, carrying in their wake a flood of spectators, glitterati, and over 600 reporters. Through a stroke of luck, local pawnbroker Sam Michael was given 18 days to turn the Central Maine Youth Center into the stage for the high-profile rematch between Sonny “The Bear” Liston and Muhammad Ali, fighting for the first time since converting to Islam and discarding his ‘slave name,’ Cassius Clay. “You can’t swing a cat in Lewiston without hitting someone who has a story about the fight,” says filmmaker Gary Robinov of White Dog Arts in Portland, creator of Raising Ali, a documentary film celebrating the 50th anniversary of Lewiston’s moment in the national spotlight. What did The Louisville Lip make of his legendary win in Maine? Following the film’s release, Robinov and executive producer Charlie Hewitt ,the Maine sculptor and artist, received this letter from the man himself:

We spoke to the man himself about the legendary fight in Lewiston B y Colin W. SaRGenT

[“Muhammad Ali Remembers Maine,” February/March 2002] What was the strangest thing about your fight in Maine? Ali: “I don’t remember anything strange. I do remember going back to my room after and having a bowl of the best ice cream!” What one image comes back to you from that night? Ali: “Sonny going down in the first minute of the fight.” Did you get to try any Maine lobster? Ali: “Because of my religious beliefs I did not eat lobster.”

It’s hard to believe fifty years have passed since Sonny Liston and I met in the ring in Lewiston, Maine. The years have flown by and with it, that young twenty-threeyear-old man who had the audacity to step into the ring a second time to face Sonny, has grown older and hopefully wiser with the benefit of time. A smile comes over my face as my wife reads me the request from Sandy Marquis, inviting me to participate in the world premiere of the documentary, Raising Ali, a wonderful tribute to the people of Lewiston. Although I’m not able to join you, my spirit is there, dancing and moving, just like I did fifty years ago. It is ironic that Sonny was the town’s favorite to win the match and reclaim the World Heavyweight Title that night. And today it is me, Muhammad Ali, Sonny’s opponent, who arrived in Lewiston for the first time after changing his name and converting to Islam, who is being embraced. I’m humbled that I still provoke conversation and interest in this community but feel blessed to be remembered by so many. I want to thank the citizens of Lewiston for continuing to make me a part of your community and history. And thank you for opening your hearts, minds and community to my Muslim brothers and sisters. May God bless you all and believe it or not, in my book you are The Greatest! With much love and gratitude, Muhammad Ali

your entire race in that moment.” Conway taught at William S. Richardson School of Law in Hawaii before trading palm trees for pine trees. The Philadelphia native is enthusiastic on the subject of Macon Bolling Allen and the historical ties that unite them across time. As America’s first black lawyer, first black justice of the peace, and the cofounder of the country’s first black law practice, Allen carved inroads into a historically elite practice into which, many decades later, Conway is making her own mark. “It makes me feel connected to Maine in a fundamental way,” Conway says. Her eyes light up. “You know what else? I graduated from Howard University in Washington D.C., which was actually founded by Oliver Otis Howard. He was a Civil War General from Leeds, Maine.” President Andrew Johnson appointed Howard Commissioner of the Freedmen’s Bureau 6 2 P o R T l a n d M o n T H LY M A G A z I n e

in 1865. His name can be found in the Museum archives. “The school was steeped in history. It really aimed to imbue us with pride in the black genealogy of the law.” Conway was first introduced to Allen’s legacy through the work of her professor, J. Clay Smith. In the first page of Emancipation: The Making of the Black Lawyer 1844-1944, Clay writes that Allen “presented the first Contemporary Influences From Maine: Freeport artist Abigail Gray Swartz’s illustrated interpretation of Rosie the Riveter as a black woman wearing a pink ‘Pussyhat’ recently made a splash on the cover of The New Yorker. USM Stonecoast MFA alumna Patricia Smith draws crowds. Her volume Blood Dazzler was a finalist for the National Book Awards for Poetry.

challenge to America’s legal community […] at a period when most black people were constitutionally enslaved.” Those first pioneering steps into the whitewashed world of law were a laborious uphill struggle. Allen was initially denied admission to the bar in Maine at a time when “anyone of good moral character” was eligible because, as an African American, he was not legally a U.S. citizen. Local abolitionist and Allen’s tutor Samuel Fessenden used his influence to persuade the committee of the Cumberland Bar for an admission by examination. Nonetheless, Allen struggled to find clients in Maine and was forced to Massachusetts in 1845 in search of work. Allen, unable to afford transportation, walked 50 miles to his Massachusetts Bar exam and still passed, according to historian Stephen Kendrick.

CLoCkWISe FRoM ToP LeFT: STAnLeY WeSTon; CoLLeCTIon oF THe SMITHSonIAn nATIonAL MuSeuM oF AFRICAn AMeRICAn HISToRY AnD CuLTuRe; ALAn kARCHMeR/nMAAHC; InSeT: THe neW YoRkeR; FILe PHoToS; CouRTeSY PHoTo

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Written in Time Born in Jamaica in 1799, the illegitimate son of a white planter and a black slave went on to become the third African American to graduate from an American university. John Russwurm was sent to Maine to be educated as a young boy on his father’s wishes. At the age of 25, he entered Bowdoin College. In Personal Recollections of Nathaniel Hawthorne, Horatio Bridge (Class of 1825) recalls visiting Russwurm in his college lodging, noting, “His sensitiveness on account of his color prevented him from returning the calls.” In spite of this, Russwurm was warmly befriended by classmates Hawthorne and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. After graduation, Russwurm was drawn to the buzz of New York City. In 1827, he became co-editor of Freedom’s Journal–the first African-American newspaper, alongside Presbyterian minister Samuel E. Cornish. The first issue of the weekly publication proudly declared: “We wish to plead our own case. Too long have others spoken for us. Too long has the public been deceived by misrepresentations in things which concern us deeply.” The post as editor lasted just a year before Russwurm, so discouraged by the apparent lack of progress in the abolition effort, lost faith in the paper. He resigned from Freedom’s Journal in 1828 and the next year sailed for Liberia. Though he lived out the rest of his years in Africa, Russwurm forever held his Maine education in high regard. In 1849, Russwurm made one final trip to the U.S. to enroll his two sons at Yarmouth Academy.

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onway finds a synchronicity in becoming the first African American (and only the second female) dean of UMaine Law in the same city where Macon Bolling Allen made history. An expert in government procurement and intellectual property law, an Army veteran, and a professor, Conway’s rise to the top has been meteoric in comparison to Allen’s excruciating struggle against a tide of prejudice. “The people who have preceded me have reaffirmed my place in the world,” she says. “Taking this job, I was presented with people who had reservations about me teaching here as a black woman. But diversity is such a fundamental component of productivity, and I believe that law is the ultimate tool in the pursuit of freedom and justice.” From law to literature, Maine’s place in the annals of black history is often surpris-

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he traditional meaning and dictionary translation of the French word charcuterie is pork butcher shop or delicatessen. In Portland, that doesn’t begin to tell the story. For a city with a widespread reputation for seafood, there is also a thriving demi-monde committed to high-quality charcuterie and salumi, much of it made with locally raised meat and poultry.

meaty FrOntierS “Charcuterie became trendy 10 or 15 years ago, though it’s actually a traditional art and technique, with its origins coming from preservation in the time before refrigera-

tion,” says Pete Sueltenfuss, owner of the Other Side Delicatessen on Portland’s Veranda Street. “Nowadays, charcuterie isn’t really limited to just cured meats like ham and bacon. It includes other things like fresh, uncured sausage and pâté, beef, and poultry livers.” “Other things” are a specialty at the Other Side, depending on what fresh local livestock catches his fancy. A self-taught charcutier, Sueltenfuss got his start in the curing and smoking arts through “trial and error. Then I worked in Boston as sous-chef to Jamie Bissonnette [executive chef of the renowned restaurant Eastern Standard on Commonwealth Avenue], and I learned a lot february/march 2017 65

Hungry EyE from him.” Subsequently, Sueltenfuss (pictured above right) moved to Portland to work at Fore Street, Miyake, and ultimately at Grace, where he was executive chef. He left to open the Other Side in early 2015 and will soon add a second location on Vaughan Street in the West End at the site of the old Vaughan Street Variety.

n his small, open deli kitchen, he accomplishes many things, including sometimes breaking down whole animals into assorted cuts. He dryages beef and lamb, and he makes fresh Italian sausages and delicious chicken Florentine links flavored with mozzarella, Parmesan, spinach, garlic, and lemon. He smokes chicken and bacon in a little smoker right next to his hulking range and pizza oven and cures his own pancetta (pork belly seasoned with garlic and rosemary) and coppa. “Coppa is dry-cured ham, basically, but from the shoulder.” It’s dark and marbled, sliced tissue-thin, with an earthy, salty flavor that’s perfect with an aperitivo. These cured items are sliced to order rather than packaged, which is perfect for experimenting with a few slices of this and that to dis-

cover what you like. If that weren’t enough, there are his house-made pâtés. He uses Commonwealth Farm chicken livers for silky terrines, Hudson Valley duck livers for his foie gras terrine, and pork he sources from Maine farms including North Star in Windham and Winter Hill in Freeport for his addictive pistachio-studded country pork pâté. “We flavor it with warm spices like nutmeg and allspice. “Fresh sausage is a great seller for us. We offer things that people may have not had before, like duck rillettes, that they’ll come back for. Whenever we get whole animals, we’ll do a terrine that’s based on all the offal–innards and organ meat. That can be 6 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

All in the family: Elliot (left) and Nick Vacchiano, great-grandsons of Pat, who opened the original Pat’s Meat Market in 1907, ready their saws for some serious butchery.

tough to get people to try, but once they do it’s pretty successful.” He’s a charcutier who responds to what’s available. “We had really beautiful veal terrine at the holidays and rabbit terrine when we can get rabbits from North Star Farm in Windham.” Since the Other Side also offers ready-to-reheat dinners, the rabbits also turned up in a rabbit stew with gnocchi. VIVE LA TOURTIèRE Nothing holds its own in the fickle world of food trends quite like tradition. “We’re still pretty small-batch, so we can keep the consistency and quality,” says Marc Mailhot, who has run the E.W. Mailhot Sausage Company in Lewiston for the past 20 years. Find Mailhot’s classic Franco-American sausages, pork tourtière, salmon pies, and cretons spreads in many groceries including the butcher section at Hannaford. The company opened in 1910, and “we just keep making what we make,” says Mailhot. The trendiest thing the company ever did was

come out with lower-fat turkey cretons in addition to the standard pork version, and that was 25 years ago. “I’ve got a little one still in school, but if he [joins the company], he’ll be the fifth generation of Mailhots.” In the search for sausage tradition, it’s hard to beat the selection at Pat’s Meat Market, the neighborhood butcher/grocery/deli on Stevens Avenue. “We make sausages every day,” says Hugh Topchick, one of the market’s many personable butchers. “We have to keep up–they’re really popular.” He’s standing behind a glass case filled with bins of chorizo, sweet and hot Italian, chicken pesto, chicken Sicilian, Buffalo, Caribbean bangers, and Lithuanian kielbasa links. You’ll discover how hard it is to choose. oVEr tHE BrIdgE “We make all our own sausages. All of the meat here [among them delicious cuts of beef, lamb, pork, and chicken] is from

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Maine,” says Logan Higger, standing behind the dazzling butcher counter at The Farm Stand on Ocean Street in South Portland’s Knightville neighborhood. The Farm Stand is a “produce/butcher/kitchen/deli/ wine” collaboration between Farmer’s Gate butcher shop in Wales, owned by Ben Slayton and his wife Erin Cinelli, and Jordan’s Farm in Cape Elizabeth, so there are plenty of fresh vegetables, too. If you can’t find something really wonderful to make for dinner here, you just aren’t trying. Even if you don’t cook much, there are prepared soups and stews to take home and heat up. “I apprenticed with a butcher in Boston, and I’ve been here and at the shop in Wales [Maine, near Lewiston] a couple of years,” says Higger. His enthusiasm is catchy as he directs us to the lengthy chalkboard list of sausages of their own recipes, among them a German bratwurst, Red Belly, Toulouse, Tuscan, Angry Tuscan, Coco Mole, Buffalo Blue, Hot Chili, and Moroccan. We take home the Viking, which turns out to be a keeper, mild pork with a subtle whisper of clove– it’s a real star with buttered egg noodles. delI deluXe ry this,” says Polly Wanzer, offering a tissue-thin sliver of Rosemary ham from behind the deli counter at the flagship Rosemont Market on Brighton Avenue. It’s delicately herby. “Now try this.” She proffers another pink sliver, this time of Rosemont-Smoked ham. It’s fantastic, redolent of slow smoking over coals, made of organic pork from Common Sense Farm in Unity. “People make up their own charcuterie platters at home,” she says, often because they’ve enjoyed them in restaurants. “And they make sandwiches and pizza, or maybe they just want to nibble on some goodquality prosciutto with a glass of wine.” The Rosemont also smokes its own turkey and bacon. And at the adjacent butcher counter, fresh sausages are displayed next to cuts of natural, hormone-free beef, lamb, pork, and chicken, all from Maine. “Sujuk is probably our most popular sausage,” says butcher Carlos Tirado. “It’s got an Eastern Mediterranean, sort of Armenian, flavor profile with fennel, fenugreek, allspice, cumin, cayenne, and paprika.” There’s spiced and smoked tasso ham “for your Cajun jambalayas and dirty rice.”

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VarIety, the SpICe oF lIFe e head up Munjoy Hill to the warmth of the crackling open cook-fire at Lolita, a wellknown destination for exotic charcuterie, for further research. “Everyone loves Iberico de Bellota,” says bartender Matthew Irving. “It’s the famous Spanish ham made from pigs that are fed acorns. And speck is pretty popular because it’s accessible.” Less well-known is the Violino di Capra, goat ham so named for the traditional way the chef would tuck one end of the whole leg under his chin to shave off slivers, as if playing a violin. “It’s winecured and has a hint of juniper. Probably a third or more of the bar-snacking people do here is charcuterie and salumi.” The list is rounded out with crespone (a Northern Italian salami), bresaola (air-dried, salted beef), and coppa. “The thing about this selection,” says chef Guy Hernandez, who owns Lolita with his wife Stella, “is you could close your eyes and pick any three, and each will be unique. You’ll get a range of flavors and textures.” We’re shocked to discover the wonderful chicken liver mousse–a Lolita musthave since they opened in 2014–has disappeared from the menu. “I like to move things around,” says Guy Hernandez. “Chicken livers are still on the menu, but over here in the small plates section,” grilled and served with currants, saffron, and a side of wilted spinach. “I just made a pork terrine with apple and hazelnut because I had this great piece of pork. We’ll have that on special this week.” When I tell him I’ve been talking to Pete Sueltenfuss at the Other Side, who also finds success–and fulfillment–in varying his offerings, Hernandez laughs. “Pete’s old school, too. The kind of guy who likes to take the approach that this is what I have; here is this piece of meat. Now what can I do with it?” We’re all for the quest. n

P er s Pe ctiv e

what kind of woman she was,” she says. The Fugitive Slave Act of 1850, also known as the Bloodhound Law, had passed only UndergroUnd railroad weeks before. Anyone If walls could talk, those of caught assisting an enthe Stowe House on 63 Federal Tess Chakkalakal, Professor of Africana slaved fugitive could Street, Brunswick, would sure- Studies and English at Bowdoin. face six months in jail. ly tell a colorful tale. Many fa“The risk of what Stowe did was not just lemous guests have known its rooms, from gal,” says Chakkalakal. “She also harbored writer Harriet Beecher Stowe–for whom a stranger, a man, in the home where she the house is named, to a young Henry lived with just her children [Stowe’s husWadsworth Longfellow, and even honeyband was not yet living in Brunswick]. She mooners Bette Davis and Gary Merrill. took him in, examined the whip marks Perhaps the most intriguing visitor of all on his back, and gave him five dollars and spent only one night here, and most likea letter of introduction for his arrival in ly slept in a cupboard. Canada. He played and sang to her young In the late months of 1850, John Anchildren. Their interaction showed an exdrew Jackson, fleeing enslavement in change between equals.” South Carolina, arrived at Harriet Beecher Stowe’s door under cover of darkness. “We have a letter sent from Stowe to ndoubtedly, the encounter with her sister that proves Jackson took refJackson, coming face-to-face with uge in her home in Brunswick that night,” the scars and stories etched by ensays Tess Chakkalakal, Professor of Afslavement, had a profound effect on Stowe. ricana Studies and English at Bowdoin, Just a few months later, she would pen the who spent 2008-2016 working to restore first installment of Uncle Tom’s Cabin, the the house and establish its place on the anti-slavery story that would become the National Underground Railroad Netbest-selling book of the 19th century, secwork to Freedom. ond only to the Bible. “To me, the house is so important beJackson successfully escaped through cause it was here that Stowe really proved Maine into New Brunswick, Canada and Lasting Legacies (continued from page 63)

ing and unexpected–and sometimes only discovered long after the fact.

from there on to London, England, where he established himself as a lecturer and writer. Given her later success, Stowe’s letter of introduction helped open doors internationally. In the foreword to his powerful memoir, The Experience of a Slave in South Carolina, Jackson writes: “During my flight from Salem to Canada, I met with a very sincere friend and helper, who gave a refuge during the night. Her name was Mrs. Beecher Stowe […] she listened with great interest to my story.” “This is one of the only instances where an example of the Underground Railroad is corroborated by both parties: Jackson in his book and Stowe in her letters to her sister,” says Chakkalakal. The evidence enabled Chakkalakal and a team of researchers to get the Harriet Beecher Stowe house listed on the National Underground Railroad Network. Today, next to a cramped cupboard in the kitchen, a small plaque hangs in testament to a night in 1850 when two writers met in secret, quietly altering the course of each other’s lives. n —By Sarah Moore We are curating an online resource based around the African American experience in Maine, starting with a collection of Portland Monthly stories from over the years. We welcome your ideas, input, and information to help develop this online museum. Please email staff@portlandmonthly.com. february/march 2017 71

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EvEryday SommEliEr

The A-List Which restaurants boast the best wine? Our sommelier shares his top Portland spots.

Meaghan Maurice

very year, I try to eat and drink better than I did the year before. And no, we’re not talking clean eating and protein shakes. To help you navigate Portland’s flooded food and wine scene, I’m sharing five of my favorite Portland destinations for winning wine lists and perfect pairings. An institution since 1996, Fore Street’s wine list has been honed to a high caliber. If you dine at the bar and make inquiries, you won’t be disappointed. Adam Beckworth, who oversees the beverage program, also does double duty as bartender and offers brilliant food and wine pairing suggestions. If you don’t catch Adam there, you’ll still find plenty of interesting choices by the glass or bottle. In particular, I’d suggest the 2013 Trimbach Pinot Noir “Reserve” from Alsace, France. This 100-percent Pinot Noir hails from one of the world’s most renowned wine-making families, with a viniculture history dating to 1626. The aro-

B y Ralph heRsom

mas of red fruit make this unoaked, medium-bodied wine a wonderful pairing with Fore Street’s dry-rubbed pork loin. Chef David Levi’s locavore joint Vinland has some of the most interesting and flavorful food in Portland–with an eclectic wine list to boot. Choose the 2014 Santa Giustina “Ortrugo” Colli Piacenti-

“You won’t go wrong with the 2011 Domaine Costa lazaridi amethystos Red from Macedonia, paired with Paithakia Galaktos Tis Skaras at Emilitsa.” ni from Romagna, Italy, along with Levi’s “Chicken with Crisp Skin” for a satisfying flavor combination. Made from 100-per-

cent Ortrugo grapes hand harvested from an organic vineyard, this versatile white wine boasts clean and pure notes of citrus and apricot. With many years in the wine industry, Michael Burke, general and beverage manager at Scales on the Maine Wharf, has created a well-thought-out international wine list, including many fantastic by-the-glass options. As an added benefit, Burke also works the floor during dinner service and can assist in selecting the perfect wine for your meal. If he’s absent during your visit, you can rely on the 2014 Pierre Boniface Apremont from the Savoie region in France. This delicious unoaked white wine is made from 100-percent Jacquère grapes grown on vines that have nestled in the French Alps for over 40 years. Savor the aromas of green apple and flowers on the nose and a crisp, refreshing acidity on the palate, ideal as an aperitif or paired with February/March 2017 73

7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

EvEryday SommEliEr

eMMa bartlett

lighter fare. Enjoy a chilled glass alongside a dozen Maine oysters for an early evening indulgence.

militsa, one of the most beautiful dining spots in Portland, is a stunning destination for Greek food and wine. Co-owner John Regas is usually available for advice on exciting pairings. You won’t go wrong with the 2011 Domaine Costa Lazaridi Amethystos Red from Macedonia, paired with Paitha-

kia Galaktos Tis Skaras [marinated and grilled grass-fed lamb loin chops]. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and the local grape Agiorgitiko, this red is aged in French oak for 12 months. Aromas of red and black fruits, particularly red currants and black currants, combine memorably in this full-bodied red. Last but certainly not least, one of my top ten “try-before-you-die” dishes (right up there with the celery risotto with black truffle at Michelin-three-star L’Arpege

in Paris and fusilli with red-wine-braised octopus and bone marrow from Marea in New York) is Eventide’s “Brown Butter Lobster Roll”–so striking it even has a trademark. Beverage Director John Myers has assembled a well-chosen wine list to complement the seafood-centric menu. The 2014 Hugel Gentil, an aromatic and beautifully balanced blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, and Sylvaner would pair well with this notoriously tasty (and tiny) lobster roll. Or make your own creations! In the BYOB category, when I want to drink something delicious from my own cellar, I head down to Schulte & Herr for German fare and a stellar playlist. A plate of Schweineschnitzel–thinly pounded, breaded, and fried pork loin with potato gratin– paired with a bottle of 2001 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Riesling is just right for a touch of mid-week indulgence. n Ralph Hersom is a sommelier and the new Category Manager of wine, beer, and spirits for Hannaford Supermarkets.

Experience Genovese cuisine in the heart of downtown Portland. S O L O I TA L I A N O R E S TA U R A N T . C O M 100 COMMERCIAL STREET | 207-780-0227

February/March 2017 75

Dining guiDe

anthony’s Italian Kitchen, offers homemade italian cooking using the freshest ingredients, featuring favorites such as pizza, pasta,and sandwiches. Voted “Best in Portland” for three years. Dine-in and catering services on offer. Beer and wine available. open 11-8 mon. through Sat. 151 middle St #5, Portland; and new location Cumberland County Courthouse, 205 newbury St. anthonysitaliankitchen. com, 774-8668.

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best italian Restaurant by market Surveys of america, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic italian, american, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 allen ave., 878-9511.

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Bull Feeney’s authentic irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & irish whiskeys. live music five nights. open 7 days, 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. 375 Fore St., old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com. diMillo’s now through December, relax and enjoy head Chef melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. every day, she offers something new and delicious. try our early Dinner Specials, monday-Friday or our wonderful Port Side lounge, Portland’s getaway for grown-ups. happy hour includes special menu monday-Friday, 4-7p.m. open daily at 11a.m., Commercial St., old Port. always FRee PaRKing while aboard. 772-2216. Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the old Port. Perfect for meetings and special occasions. ingredients from maine’s waters and farms. the seasonal ice Bar is ideal for outdoor dining. happy hour mon. - Fri.; free valet parking. lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com J’s oyster is a premier seafood destination and locals’ favorite with indoor and outdoor waterfront seating on one of Portland’s scenic piers. established in 1977, J’s offers classic favorites and friendly service. Coastal living claimed J’s one of “america’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” Find us on Facebook. 772-4828

Kon asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves asian cuisine with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, thai, Chinese, or hibachi tables. Private party rooms accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items prepared before your table. Family

RestauRant Review

Next Stop Chengdu Sichuan Kitchen brings the heat to congress street. B y Dian e HuDSon

FroM top: exclusive tours; diane hudson

nticing, spicy Sichuan Kitchen is now pulsing on Congress Street. In this daughter-father act, Qi Shen (Qi meaning “life” or “breath” in Mandarin) brought her dad, Shang Wei Shen, from his native Sichuan Region of southwest China to dazzle diners here. As head chef, “He speaks no English,” Qi says. “We translate each order to him in Mandarin.” We begin with the seaweed salad ($7). Crystal vermicelli noodles, julienned daikon, and savory seaweed combine to create a stunning fresh salad dressed with roasted chili oil, which gives the dish a smoky heat. It’s spiced, not spicy: the kick of the chili is tamed by black vinegar and a generous garnish of fresh cilantro. If the heart of Sichuan cooking beats with “four taste sensations: spicy, hot, fresh, and fragrant,” according to the menu. This opener delivers on all four.

pairs beautifully with the subtle, dry heat of the seaweed salad. Following tradition, we sip cups of fragrant tea from a white ceramic teapot between courses, cleansing our palates before the next round of indulgence. Shen’s specially selected E-Mei Kaifengt tea ($5) is made from a delicate blend of floral jasmine and green loose-leaf tea shipped from China. Our draught of Peaks Fresh Cut Pilsner ($6) hasn’t traveled quite as far to our table–but certainly de-

Seeking robust sensuality, we enjoy an appetizer of savory Sichuan-style ribs ($12). Made of slow-braised, tender pork ribs smothered in a dark syrupy sauce, this

“The heart of Sichuan cooking beats with ‘four taste sensations: spicy, hot, fresh, and fragrant.’” February/March 2017 77

Dining guiDe

thai home cooking

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Maria’s Ristorante – Portland’s Classic Italian Restaurant –

friendly; open mon.-thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. to 11 p.m., Sat. 1 p.m-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com. Maria’s ristorante is Portland’s original classic italian Restaurant. greg and tony napolitano are always in house preparing classics like zuppa de Pesce, eggplant Parmigian, grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio gelato, limoncello Cake, and maine’s Best meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. tue.-Sat. starting at 5 p.m. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored mexican and latino food. offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. open daily, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com. rivalries Sports pub & Grill now with two fun and comfortable upscale sports bar locations. Known for great casual pub food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. and, with 30+ hD tVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! located at 11 Cotton Street in Portland’s old Port (774-6044) and 2 hat trick Drive, Falmouth (747-4020), rivalriesmaine.com Solo Italiano traditional northern italian cuisine mixes maine freshness with genovese flavor frm international chef Paolo laboa. enjoy the crudo bar or the daily changing menu. included in Food & Wine Magazine’s 2016 “What to Do in Portland, me.” open daily 5 p.m–10 p.m. 100 Commercial Street Portland, 780-0227, soloitalianorestaurant.com *reservations recommended

Six Course Italian Dinner for Two (Including a bottle of wine) $29 Per Person

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Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

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livers on refreshment. We can’t bear to leave the appetizer list, so we try a plate of Zhong dumplings ($7), straight from Shen’s hometown of Chengdu. These tender little pockets of luscious, garlicky pork loin are topped with the signature Zhong chili-soy sauce with just the right amount of zing. We are smitten.

494 Stevens Avenue, Portland, Maine 04103

10-6 Tuesday-Saturday • 10-2 Sunday

RestauRant Review

Meaghan Maurice; diane hudson

Jamie Hogan

ur next taste treat, served familystyle, is Fish with pickled greens ($19)–Swai fish fillets, pickled greens, chilis, and Sichuan peppercorns. Swai is a white fish similar to a catfish. Bathing in a velvety broth, the dish boasts the classic Sichuan pepper spice profile: a slow, numbing tingle of heat with a lemony flavor, unlike the hot, eye-watering slap of the traditional chili pepper. A real slow burner, this dish is the perfect antidote for a cool, windy day. Shang Wei Shen has a surprise for us: Double-Cooked Pork ($16). His plate of delicate pork belly shells arrives simmered and then fried in a rich bean paste punctuated with flash-fried leeks for a zippy freshness. Jumping with vibrant greens and reds, this bowl is as much a feast for the eyes as for the taste buds. Bypassing the limp, greasy fare of pseudo-Chinese takeout joints, Sichuan Kitchen delivers authentic regional cuisine thanks to Shen’s exciting and accessible cooking. Quite exceptionally, flavor is not lost in translation at Sichuan Kitchen. n Sichuan Kitchen, 612 Congress St., Portland. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. 536-7226, sichuankitchenportland.com

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February/March 2017 79

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House of tHe MontH

Deering High Style

chad LathaM, ListingtunneL.coM

the 1868 Leonard Bond Chapman House delivers a storied past and a little panache for $799,000.

lfred Hitchcock’s Victorian mansard relic from the movie Psycho still exists in the Universal Studios’ backlot in Hollywood. There’s a long line to get in. Wouldn’t you rather buy the one in Portland, Mother? The Leonard Bond Chapman House is no less cinematic, and clearly in better shape, than the rheumy wreck in the Hitchcock classic. Far from being the nightmare setting of very dysfunctional and toxic relationships, 90 Capisic Street is a happy family home. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and was a Portland Symphony Showcase house, as opposed to being on the horror-movie tour circuit. This “Mansard-style” villa with a graceful porch dates to the time in the ‘lost Town of Deering’ when the Chapmans were lords of the manor. This country seat was once

By CoLin w. Sarg en t

surrounded by acres of farmland. While chez Chapman didn’t have broadband internet, they reached out to correspondents via carrier pigeons flying in and out from the roof of “The Spring House,” a dependency behind the house with a matching mansard roof. The birds were released and recovered from a caged gateway that opened in the roof. The main house “is a well-preserved example of the Style with Italianate detailing,” according to the National Register papers. It’s hard to miss the three-story tower [once capped by lovely iron work] and bay windows “covered by entablatured lintels.” Diy MagnifiCenCe Notably, this “statement house” was “selfdesigned” by first owner Leonard Bond Chapman (1834-1915),” according to William David Barry and Patricia McGraw

Anderson in their Deering, A Social And Architectural History, “not far from his boyhood home.” Chapman ran a successful nursery business before becoming enraptured by his hobby as a genealogist and historian for the Forest City. A member of Maine Historical Society, he nurtured a “remarkable reputation as an antiquarian, manuscript collector, and historian.” When he died, his bound manuscripts and papers greatly deepened the holdings of the Society. We are in his debt. weLCoMe inSiDe Today, this “Second-Empire Victorian” is move-in ready. The house has been curated and kept up for generations. Think of George Bailey’s family home after the fixup in It’s A Wonderful Life; not so much the ‘before’ which welcomed Beetlejuice. All the knob-and-tube electricity has been updatFebruary/March 2017 81

House of tHe MontH

You’ll Just love the Flow With 11 rooms in all, 3,848-feet of living space, and five bedrooms, there’s a full bath on each of the three floors. There’s a step-down in the ell to the original servants’ quarters. It’s a crime that there’s no ‘Zillow check’ box for whether or not your property has an original, three-story carriage house with winding wooden stairs beckoning with fra-

8 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

grant woodwork. Check. Actually there are four levels, as this garage has a basement. If foundations don’t lie, at least part of the Spring House, erstwhile launching pad for the carrier pigeons, may have served as a privy.

ow, it’s a privilege to be in here, because it’s been transformed into a dreamy office or painter’s studio. Inside, a stencilled board bears the legend “Albion Leonard Chapman.” Albion was Leonard Bond Chapman’s son. Those who love to decode Portland may be saying, aha! Nearby Albion Street, connecting Capisic Street and Brighton Avenue, was named for this boy. For generations, The Breakwater School was called Chapman School, dedicated in honor of this family and its dominions. In this provincial neck of the woods, the Chapmans were Forest City Medici. To track Chapman genealogy to Colonial times predating the Salem Witch Trials, visit http://www.chapmanfamilies.org/genealogies/ edw617en.pdf. Taxes are $9,746. n

Chad latham, listingtunnel.Com

ed. There’s a new boiler and a contemporary kitchen with snappy black-and-white tiles. There are four coal fireplaces, one with exceptional faux marble painting. The first floor features a spiral stair, luscious paneling and hardwood doors, and walls that fascinate with skip-troweling texture.

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ro C k p o rt H a r b o r Wat e r f ro n t ro C k p o rt Contemporary interpretation of a 3-story, 4BR Shingle-style cottage; the focal point of a magnificent 4+ acre family compound with guest house. At the end of Sea Street and bordered by Harbor and Harkness Preserve. The finest in design, craftsmanship and landscaping. Dock, pool, gardens, media room, library, decks and more. MLS 1265508 Peter van der Kieft 207.592.9366 | $6,950,000

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Contemporary waterfront farmhouse in Wyeth Country. Enjoy the wrap-around porch on this comfortable year-round home with radiant heated wood floors and cooled by a whole house fan. The flexible floor plan offers the expansion potential of a first floor BR and/or an additional BR suite above the garage. MLS 1274943 Valerie Foster 207.522.7820 | $780,000

Lois Lengyel

Historic farmhouse with 96 acres of woods/fields and 2900 ft of waterfront on Pemaquid Pond. Large rustic barn, summer cottage add charm/opportunity. Perfect for year round/or seasonal retreat. Potential subdivision into multiple scenic waterfront lots/ timber harvest. Island suitable for camping. MLS 1289806 Lois Lengyel 207.233.2820 | $748,000

207.233.2820 | llengyel@legacysir.com

Pristine spacious home w/deeded beach access directly across the street. Main floor boasts gourmet kitchen & wood burning FP. Expansive decking with water views front & back is perfect for outdoor enjoyment. High on the edge of Biddeford Pool, w/ peaceful views of Rachel Carson Conservation land. MLS 1292249 Chris Stone 207.590.3425 | $889.000

Set back from the road and close to the golf course or the harbor, with two front-to-back upstairs bedrooms and two full-baths, has hardwood floors, a spacious living room with a brick fireplace and an open floor plan. Kitchen with granite counters. Saltwater breezes from the nearby Pemaquid River. MLS 1283895 Kathleen Shattuck 207.215.4161 | $225,000

Glenn Jonsson

207.776.0036 | glenn@legacysir.com

Cumberland Foreside Oceanfront Estate

5 Ebb Tide Drive, Cumberland - Magnificent 5BR, 6+BA waterfront estate on 2.16 acres with 220' pier with float. $3,230,000

New eNglaNd Homes & living

94 acres • 3,100 feet of direct ocean frontage • 400 foot private sand beach scores of building sites along the 3,100 feet 20 acres of blueberry fields an old grandfathered cottage nestled on the point, inches away from the crashing surf This is the best parcel of oceanfront land available on the coast of Maine $1,590,000.00

Jonesport Realty

207-497-5725 William K. Milliken - Owner/Broker www.jonesportrealty.com

SHELDON SLATE is a family-owned business with four generation of experience. We mine and manufacture our own slate products

from our own quarries. The range of our colors will complement any kitchen or bath. Our slate is heat-resistant, non-porous, and nonfading. It has a polished/honed finish and is very low maintenance. Let us help you design and build a custom sink, countertop, or vanity. Custom Inquiries are handled through the Monson, Maine, division. PRODUCERS OF SLATE FLOOR TILE, FLAGGING, STRUCTURAL SLATE AND ROOFING, MONUMENTS, AND SLATE SINKS Monson, Maine 04464 207-997-3615 Middle Granville, New York 12849 518-642-1280 SHELDONSLATE.COM 8 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

New eNglaNd Homes & living

Portland New East End Luxury Condos Starting at $569,900

Portland Historic Western Prom 7 BR, 4 Full BA, 2 Half BA $1,675,000

Portland Old Port Condo 3 BR, 3 BA $793,500

Portland West End Condo 2 BR, 2 Full BA, 1 Half BA $598,500

John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

February/March 2017 89

New eNglaNd Homes & living

“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” OQUOSSOC It’s All About the View at this Custom Log Home Overlooking Cupsuptic Lake. Sunny Floor Plan, Attached 2-Car w/Workshop. Walk to the Kennebago River, Minutes to Oquossoc Boat Ramps. $325,000

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

(207) 233-8275

caryn@citycoverealty.com

RANGELEY VILLAGE

RANGELEY LAKE

Newly Remodeled and Waiting For You! Being Sold Fully Turn-Key with All New Appliances, Flooring, Furniture, Mechanicals. Loaded with North Woods Charm. Walk to Town Amenities. $159,000

DALLAS PLANTATION

Your Base Camp for Rangeley Adventure!

Niboban Sporting Camps has Only 3 WF Cabins Remaining. If You’ve Ever Dreamed of Carefree Ownership on the Lake, Then Here’s Your Final Chance. Get One Before Its Gone! $279,900

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Mooseridge Lodge – Impressive 5-BR Katahdin Cedar Log Home Offers Panoramic Mt/Lake Vistas, Top Quality Materials Throughout, Stainless/Granite Kitchen, Radiant Heat, BackUp Generator. Detached 2-Car. $598,500

RANGELEY

RANGELEY PLANTATION

Comfortable 3BR Chalet Offers Open Floor Plan w/Rustic Stone Chimney, Floor to Ceiling Windows, Rangeley Lake/Sunset Views. Quiet, Private Location Abutting Conservation Area, Near Golf Course, Minutes to Town. $269,000

Meticulously Maintained Log Sided Chalet With Elevated Lake/Bemis Mt Views. Detached 1-Car, Plus ATV/Snowmobile Storage Shed. Easy Trail Access From Your Door, Walk to the Phillips Preserve. Sold furnished. $227,000

2455 Main Street • P.O. Box 1234 • Rangeley, ME 04970

www.realestateinrangeley.com

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Fiction

staFF illustration

B y J ohn Man derin o

re you going to wear that?” Jill asked, brushing her hair, looking at Bob in her dressing ta-

ble mirror. “I thought I might,” he said by the closet, buttoning. “Why? You don’t like it?” “Didn’t say that.” “I can wear something else.” “That’s entirely up to you.” “Would you prefer I wore something else?” “Do you like that shirt, Bob?” “Yes, I do. I like it very much.” “Then you should wear it.” “But do you like it.” “Doesn’t matter.” “Tell me anyway, just for fun.” “All right. Just for fun? I don’t like it. I think it’s utterly dreadful.” “You’re kidding.” “Why would I kid?” He began unbuttoning it. “Then I’ll wear something else.” “Please don’t.” “You said it was dreadful.”

“Utterly.” “All right, then.” He continued unbuttoning it. “Please don’t change your shirt for me, Bob.” “Who should I change it for?” “For yourself.” “But I like this shirt.” “Then there’s nothing more to be said.” Bob hesitated, holding a button. “You’re right.” He began buttoning it up again. Jill watched him in the mirror. “So you’re going to wear it?” “Yes, Jill, I am. I think it’s a terrific-looking shirt.” “Then you should definitely wear it.” “I definitely intend to.” “I can see that.” “I’m sorry you don’t like it.” “That doesn’t matter, apparently.” Bob dropped his hands, one button to go. “Jill, that’s not fair. Of course it matters. You know that.” “And yet…” She gestured in the mirror towards the shirt he was nevertheless wearing.

Bob stood there a moment. Then he began quickly unbuttoning. “This is ridiculous. I’ll wear another shirt, for God sakes. I hate this shirt. It’s a horrible, bitchy, impossible shirt and I want nothing more to do with it.” He pulled it off and flung it to the carpet, then stood there in his T-shirt with his hands at his hips, breathing hard. “All right? Happy?” She looked at him in the mirror, sadly. “See how you get?” She put an earring on. He continued standing there, watching her put the other one on. Then he said quietly, “Jill, will you tell me something, please?” “If I can.” “What…exactly…do you want from me?” “You really want to know?” “I really do.” “You’re not going to like it,” she warned, opening a tube of lipstick. “Tell me anyway.” “I want you to be a man, Bob.” She began coloring her lips. He stood there nodding, hands at his February/March 2017 93

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9 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Fiction hips. Then he drew a long breath, calmly picked up the shirt, and began putting it on again, speaking warmly. “I remember the day I bought this shirt. It was raining, hard. I was passing a men’s store on my way to the train and saw it in the window. I stopped right there in the rain and said to myself, ‘Now, that is one hell of a goodlooking shirt. I want it and I’m gonna have it.’ Then I marched straight in and told the man, ‘I want that shirt, the one in the window. Get it for me. Now.’ And you know what he said to me, Jill? I’ll never forget.” “‘Get it yourself’?” Bob nodded, smiling. “Very good. Very funny.” “I’m sorry.” She was applying eyeliner now. “What did the man say, Bob?” “Never mind.” “All right.” She drew a line just beneath her eye. “I’ll tell you what he said. And I quote: ‘I can see you’re the kind of man who knows exactly what he wants.’” “Those were his words, Bob? His actual words?” “Words to that effect. The point is, I love this shirt. That’s the point I’m trying to make here.” He finished buttoning it. “I love it and I’m going to wear it.” “Please don’t?” she said quietly. He looked at her imploring face in the mirror. “Bob, please?” she said to him. “Oh, honey.” He held out his arms. “Come here. Come here.” She got up and went to him and wept against the shirt. “I hate it, Bob. I hate it so much.” He held her. “I know…I know…” “Tell me you won’t ever wear it.” “I’ll burn it in the yard, Jill. We’ll dance around the flames.” “Just promise you’ll never wear it.” “I promise.” “Thank you.” Sniffling, she began unbuttoning it for him. “By the way. That story you told about buying it?” “Yeah?” “You made that up, didn’t you.” “Some of it.” “All of it. I bought the shirt, Bob.” She finished unbuttoning it and returned to her dressing table. “I bought it for you last Christmas.” He said quietly, “Oh, yeah.”

“I saw it at Marshall Field’s.” She plucked out a Kleenex from the box and began wiping off her runny eyeliner. “I remember thinking to myself, ‘Wow. Bob would look really good in that. Really…different.’” He was about to remove the shirt but stopped. “From what, Jill? Different from what? From Bob?” He stepped up behind her. “Is that what you thought? Different from Bob?”

he was reapplying her eyeliner. “But I don’t look different, do I. I look just the same, the same old Bob.” He spread his arms, displaying the shirt. “A little different packaging, that’s all.” He dropped his arms. “That’s the reason you hate this shirt so much, isn’t it.” She put her eyeliner pencil away. “Isn’t it, Jill.” “Are we going to dinner or not?” “No. I don’t believe we are.” “We have reservations, Bob.” “I don’t care.” He placed his hands around her neck. “What’re you going to do, strangle me now?” He took his hands back. “Sorry.” “Tell you what. How about this,” she offered. “You go ahead and wear the shirt. I sit across from it the entire meal. By the time we reach dessert, the shirt is fine. I’m fine. You’re fine. We have an after-dinner drink, maybe two or three. Get a little tipsy. Come home. Have sex. Fall asleep. Get up the next morning and go on.” “With what.” She sighed. “With us.” They stared at one another in the mirror for a long time. “Strangle me, Bob.” He looked at his watch. “If we’re going, Jill, we should go.” “What’s the time?” “Quarter till.” She grabbed her purse and got up, then stood there looking at him. “What,” he said. “Are you going to at least button the thing?” He did so, as they left together. n

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John Manderino’s latest fiction collection is But You Scared Me the Most (Chicago Review Press, $14.99). He is currently finishing a novel titled Bopper’s Progress. He lives in Scarborough and can be found at johnmanderino.com. February/March 2017 95

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Mark MarChesI’s “evangelIne: a MOdern tale Of aCadIa” at PhOPa gallery 1. andrea Mabee, Carole fonde 2. ben Williamson, Jack Milton 3. Penny Marchesi, Izzy Marchesi, Mark Marchesi, Michelle bolduc, John eide 4. Jon edwards, ella davies hudson, rachel Mcdonald

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Peaks Island taxI fundraIser at flatbread 1. Marjorie Phyfe, bill Oliver, norm Proulx 2. tommy Marston, emile Olins, barak Olins, Matt Marston 3. timothy Wyant, Claudine Weatherford 4. art astarita, fred bragdon, Margaret bragdon, Peg astarita 5.rosa deJong, Ja noah bailin

allagash hOPPy table beer 1 launCh at bull feeney’s 1. Matt West, Zach Weissner 2. nick toole, Corinne O’Conner 3. keith, denise, & brett Meiler, victoria fura 4. kristen demergian, eric Meader 5. karri diomede, sean sullivan

5 grand OPenIng Of neW CreatIve POrtland OffICe 1. sandra bogdonoff, dinah Minot, Whip hubley, Christopher danse 2. barry sheff, Patrick Costin, lodrys gomez 3. tim & debra honey, Chellie Pingree 4. Polly nichols, rachael harkness, eric hopkins 5. fiona Mason, Patty howells

Join The Ad Club of Maine for the Broderson Awards—celebrating the best creative minds across the state. Check out a lot of kickass work, meet some the most talented humans in the game, and party like your parents are out of town. Even better? A portion of every dollar from ticket sales will go to $5,000 in scholarship, awarded to the top 5 entrants to the Student Work category. C E L E B R AT E T H E B E S T O F M A I N E ’ S C R E AT I V E C O M MU N I T Y .

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