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July/August 2016 Vol. 31 NO. 5 $5.95
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southportmarine.com 207-799-8191 • 978-904-1924 14 Ocean St. South Portland, ME 04106 91 Bridge St. Salisbury, MA 01952
A Fine Arts gallery open June 25th thru mid September in Blue Hill, Maine and from September 20th thru Memorial Day in Grafton, Vermont. Featuring a unique series of limited edition bronze sculptures entitled, “The Woodland Tribes of the Northeast.” Also featuring paintings by Jerry Rose, Barron Krody, Randy Eckard, lorraine Lans, and Sally Ladd Cole.
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Shades of Light: Life Examined
By The Same Token
Down in Front
Eye Catching
BA R BARA MORSE
THURSDAY, JULY 14th – SUNDAY, JULY 31st, 2016 Artist’s Reception Friday, July 15th, 5 to 8 p.m. 1810 Post Road, P.O. Box 1090 Wells, Maine 04090-1090 207.216.9022
THE WHITNEY GALLERIES
www.thewhitneygalleries.com Hours: Wednesday 1-5 and Thursday through Sunday, 12-6
BOOTHBAY HARBOR REGION CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
photo by Tom Burns
photo by Dave Dostie photo courtesy of The Opera House
photo by Robert Mitchell
photo courtesy of Boothbay Harbor Chamber
photo by Robert Mitchell
UPCOMING FESTIVALS 9/2-9/11 Boothbay Harbor Fest 9/8 BRCTV Film Fest 9/9-9/11 Mine Oyster Fest 9/15 5th Annual Claw Down Lobster Bite Competition 9/23-9/24 Boothbay Charities Classic 10/8 Fall Foliage Festival 11/18 -19 Early Bird Sale 11/18 -12/31 Gardens A Glow 12/2-4 Festival of Trees 12/3 Harbor Lights
all year long!
Opera House Holiday Events 12/10 Christmas in Maine w/Paul Sullivan 12/16 Dough Ball Premiere Party 12/17-18 Gingerbread Spectacular
photo courtesy of The Opera House
photo courtesy of Boothbay Railway Village photo courtesy of Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens
photo by Robert Mitchell
Just one scenic hour from Portland
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July/August 2016 | Vol. 31, No. 5
74
Perspectives 16 From the Editor 18 Letters 23 2016 Festival Guide 34 Experience
101 L’Esprit de l’Escalier
“Journey Across the Language Bridge” By Rhea Côté Robbins
Art&Style 25 Blue Skies & Red Claws
The Maine Lobster Festival comes to life in Rockland this summer By Jaime Wilson
133 Fiction
all photos by corey templeton
“Coping Mechanism” By Deana Coddaire
Maine Life 21 Maine Classics 43 Chowder 45 Portland After Dark: “Floating the Perfect Evening” What is it about a night on the water that’s so magical? By Karen Hofreiter
65 Dream Boats The biggest and boldest power yachts in Maine and the people who own them. From Staff &Wire Reports 71 Conquering the Castle Gourmet dining returns to Deering Oaks Park. By Robert Witkowski
74 Love Letter to Portland Portland receives a love letter from afar. Technology interrupts. By the crew of El Galeón
77
77 Longfellow Serenade Welcome to city’s new cultural hub of activity. By Daniel Kany
83 Dive In! A guide to getting out on the water. No yacht needed. From Staff &Wire Reports Personalities 89 Oyster Empire
Top New York chef Rebecca Charles sets her sights on Kennebunk. By Claire Z. Cramer
95 Castaway on Kent Island Diary of a summer spent in a far-flung corner of the Atlantic Ocean. Story and photos by Emily Weyrauch
136 Flash
Food&Drink 51 Food Truck Confidential
Slipping behind the hatch of Portland’s food-truck scene reveals intriguing backstories. By Sarah Moore
99 Everyday Sommelier “Wine & Grill” By Ralph Hersom
102 Dining Guide 103 Restaurant Review Climb aboard The Spirit of Massachusetts and indulge in a floating feast. Shelter&Design 107 House of the Month
“Rockefeller Centered” By Colin W. Sargent
120 New England Homes & Living
Cover: Passengers aboard schooner Bagheera, by Bethany and Dan Photography. j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 5
Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher
Partners
Monhegan Morning 12 x 12,Paul acrylic on canvas, Black Jeffery Sabol 11 x 14 oil
Featuringoriginal original works ne art, Featuring worksofoffifine art, photography and and limited-edition photography limited-edition printsby byregional regional and prints andlocal localartists. artists. 372 Fore Street 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-8084 (207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com
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f o l i a j e w e l r y. c o m
R
Reading: Do You Dare?
eading is a deep and convincing passage to another place and time. So fully do we lose ourselves while reading a book or magazine that cognitive literature scholar Susanne Reichl of the University of Vienna has suggested we become separate beings while we read–we’re here yet not here–“homo legens…the reading human.’’ Moments before writing this, I disappeared into Mexico in early 1938. A monkey crashed through the trees above my chair. The sky, alive with mosquitoes “like sewing machines,” is still with me. The comfortable feel of the book’s paper pages helped me transition into homo legens and disappear into this world. Where is this exotic doorway? Under the cover of Graham Greene’s The Power and the Glory. Which is why printed books and magazines will never be replaced by the internet. Pop-ups, streaming, email alerts, and other interruptions can’t help but prevent us from reaching deepest into the reading experience. The internet may be irreplaceable, but so is real reading with a real book or magazine. Far from being homo legens, we are homo interruptus while checking online to see Trump’s latest gaffe or skimming a few skidding graphs on our mobiles (sometimes while driving). Naomi S. Baron, author of The Fate of Reading in a Digital World, ironically addresses readers of The Huffington Post: “Studies I have done with university students in several countries confirm what I bet you’ll find yourself observing. When reading either for (school) work or pleasure, the preponderance of students found it easiest to concentrate when reading in print. They also reported multitasking almost three times as much when reading on-screen as when reading in hard copy.” The same Huffington Post story whispers “Students don’t connect emotionally with on-screen texts.” A Guardian study “gave half its participants a story on paper, and the other half the same story on screen…Screen readers didn’t feel that the story was as immersive, and therefore weren’t able to connect with it on an emotional level.”
W
hich is the key to everything, unless you feel emotions don’t count. It’s funny–the most compelling evidence for the genuine value of print media is the internet. (Buy all the print newspapers you can right now, because they’re on the eve of a renaissance). More and more, our distracted culture is discovering that just when digital readers might be descending into the magic of reading, they’re yanked out of it by click-bait, snarky redirections, or malware. How many confirmed non-readers have you heard say, “I get all the news I need from my smartphone.” Some people really believe they read entire newspapers online, or certainly could if they wanted to. Except they often don’t. These might be the same people who didn’t really read before there were smartphones. Someone or some early childhood experience deprived them from celebrating the delicious thrill of reading with a capital R. Which leaves you and me. This July/August issue is full of doors, each one a story designed to transport you to a favorite spot or even a place you’ve never seen before. People inside these stories are waiting to speak with you. Curl up with these tales, created for you by our writers for whom style is still in style. When you read this magazine, your past, present, and future is in your hands. Maybe you won’t lose yourself so much as find yourself here. 50 EXCHANGE STREET PORTLAND, MAINE
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editorial Sarah Moore Assistant Editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Jason Hjort Webmaster Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Jeanee Dudley Experience accounting Eric S. Taylor Controller eric@portlandmonthly.com interns Amelia Connolly, Sean Kruger, Jamie Wilson
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The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric Taylor. Newsstand Cover Date: July/August 2016, published in July 2016, Vol. 31, No. 5, copyright 2016. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December. We are proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 59 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.
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About your “Eye in the sky” That’s pretty spectacular! [Summerguide 2016] Tarja Rose, Bath Brilliant: Drones flying right smack dab into the Portland Jetport flight path! Martha Mickles, via Facebook Great magazine. Dick Clarke, Long Island
I miss Portland so much. Just beautiful! Sue Tucker, via Facebook This picture makes me homesick for Portland! Jesse Simisky, Portland family flying business My father-in-law Dr. Clifford Strange was the founder of the Portland Airport. In 1922 he purchased several acres of farmland in Stroudwater which he graded to make a small grass-covered runway for personal use. In the late 1920s and early 1930s 1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
he developed a second runway, constructed two hangars, installed an airport beacon and fueling facilities. In 1927 the airstrip was recognized by the U.S. Dept. of Commerce as the “Stroudwater Flying Field.” In 1937 the City of Portland acquired it by eminent domain and it was renamed the “Portland Airport.” Ervette Strange, via email Thanks, Ervette. From information we have now we believe the Payson family was connected to the development of the Scarborough Airport. We welcome any letters about these early flying days from our readers. –Ed.
Clearing the tables As a co-owner of Standard Baking Co., I’d like to comment on your restaurant review of Scales. While Vic Leon and Dana Street have an interest in all the Portland food establishments mentioned, Sam Hayward’s involvement is in Fore St only. I’m guessing this was the intent of the writer, but thought it might be unclear to your readers. Alison Pray, Portland, Maine
Whoever said money can’t buy pleasure, simply did not know where to shop.
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From Left: chris trafford; courtesy photo
Written on the wind I adore this magazine. I am a homesick New Englander who used to live and teach in Maine, and every issue eases the longing a bit! Joan Connor, via Facebook Rumors of pride’s corner drive-in death exaggerated “The Tevanians will work together to return the Pride’s Corner Drive-in to its former glory and preserve the legacy of our fathers: Avie, John, and Herbert Tevanian. Be sure to list them in order of age as a mark of respect. That’s very important in our family.” Malcolm Tevanian, in conversation Time Flies Congratulations! I can’t believe it’s been eight years since I interned with you, working on several issues including 2008’s Summerguide. Next time I’m in town, I’ll stop by the office. Keep rocking Portland! Sheldon Higdon, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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MaineClassics
Clockwise from top left: courtesy Baxter’s; Jamie Wilson; something new photography; amelia connolly; courtesy photo; map by sean kruger; melissa textor/ bite of maine
Sweet Spot B
axter’s Essentials, tucked away at the bottom of Brackett Street next to Omi’s Coffee shop, is a hidden treat for all those with a secret sweet tooth. Inspired by a visit to a sweetshop in Berlin, Anne Nanovic uses antique rollers from the 1800s and natural spices and herbs to create traditional artisanal hard candies. “It’s a very labor-intensive process, so people don’t do it any more. Nowadays, everything is chocolate or butterscotch. I wanted some more sophisticated, adult flavors.” Try black tea and lemon, or the more adventurous lime and jalapeno candies, $7.75 for a three-ounce jar.
Flower Happy Hour
Give your happy hour a botanical twist with Sawyer & Co. florists on Congress Street. They provide bottomless booze and an array of hors d’oeuvres to accompany a hands-on lesson in the art of flower arranging. “It’s not really about learning how to be a professional florist–it’s just fun!” says owner Samantha Emery. Happy [flower] hour is every second Wednesday at 6 p.m. $65 per person.
M ain e I H ac k s I
Just as we were hot off the press with Summerguide, The Virginian Pilot published their own version of our Maine Hacks guide, featuring a food truck offering classic Vacationland fare from Virginia Beach. Reviewer Steve Attenweiler, a native Mainer, knows good seafood: “The quickest way to spot a fraud is when they offer you fried clam strips that reek of overprocessing and sadness,” Attenweiler rightly declares. Thankfully, A Bite of Maine owner Melissa Textor is no mere pretender. Hailing from Frenchville, Textor’s parents own Herb’s Seafood market in Kennebunk. “I was missing my lobster rolls, clams, and haddock! They’re my favorite foods, and I wanted to bring that to Virginia. We have so many transplanted New Englanders here, you can’t even imagine!”
In the Deep Blue Sea T
he last time we spoke to Pat Gallant, 65, she’d recently broken the U.S. record as the Oldest Woman to swim the English Channel, tackling adverse conditions and seal carcasses along the way. Not one to rest on her laurels, Pat has set her sights set on a world title: Oldest Woman to swim the North Channel (21 miles from Northern Ireland to Scotland). “I’m doing the Ocean Seven Challenge, seven of the world’s hardest swims. So far I’ve completed already completed the Catalina Challenge, the Strait of Gibraltar, the Tsugaru Strait, and the English Channel. The North Channel is number five, and it’s notoriously the hardest. I’ve attempted the crossing twice before. Last time the weather conditions were too dangerous. On my first attempt I was within a mile of the shore and my record finish when the tide turned and swept a school of lion’s mane jellyfish into my path. I had over a thousand stings covering my body!” This summer, Pat’s hoping third time’s the charm. J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 2 1
Bethel Bethel is a year-round recreational paradise. Visit Maine’s western mountains for endless hiking, canoeing and kayaking, fishing, golf on two courses, and scenic drives in every direction. Enjoy culture and comforts with lodging for all budgets, 30+ restaurants, a National Historic District, museums, and festivals and events in every season. Bethel is Maine’s winter playground, home to top-notch alpine skiing, and miles of trails for XC skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling.
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2016 Maine festivals guide
Blue Skies
& Red Claws
Maine’s main export gets its star turn at Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland this summer. It’s just one of many festivals that draw 800,000 discrete (and mostly discreet) visitors to Maine. Here is our guide.
from top: abetterhappierstsebastion; pj walter; courtesy photos(2)
“I
by Jai me Wilson
t makes me feel good about where I live,” a volunteer says when asked why she keeps coming back every year to help run the Maine Lobster Festival. Driven entirely by donations and volunteers, the festival has grown from a creative marketing idea to a Maine classic in its 69th year. “Originally, it was a way to get rid of the new shell lobsters there was no market for, says the festival’s entertainment director Chuck Kruger. “The lobstermen’s wives got together and had all-you-caneat lobster for $1.” These days, over 20,000 pounds of lobster and 1,700 pounds of butter vanish during festival weekend. It’s great to see Rockland Harbor Park welcome tens of thousands of visitors to its shorefront location, but it’s more staggering to consider the number of volunteers–they top one thousand. And it’s not just Mainers who make the journey to pitch in. “It’s remarkable how many volunteers we get, and how diverse they are,” says Kruger. “We have a whole family who comes up every summer all the way from Tempe, Arizona.” Not a fan of lobster? No matter, the festival boasts
a variety of raucous events to keep disbelievers entertained. This year, 90s rocker favorites Smash Mouth will be headlining the festival’s main stage on Saturday, August 6, rousing crowds with their nostalgic hits. Traditional festival highlights also include the amateur Seafood Cooking Contest and The Big Parade. Festivities accelerate across August 7 with the more adventurous visitors taking part in the Great Lobster Crate Race, where daredevils sprint across a flimsy bridge of lobster crates spanning the harbor. What’s the secret to keeping this fishy festival afloat? According to Kruger, it’s simple: “We don’t take ourselves too seriously.” n
fairs Acton Fair, Route 109, Acton. Live entertainment, 4-H animal events, horse and oxen pulling, tractor pull, midway, vintage car show, King Arthur flour baking competition, Miss Acton Fair pageant, women’s skillet toss, woodsmen’s day of competition, and of course a pig scramble, Aug. 25-28. actonfair.net Allagash Wilderness Waterway, Town of Allagash. Displays, exhibitions, guest speakers, bateau rides and a bean supper, Aug. 20. maine.gov/allagash Bangor State Fair, Cross Insurance Ctr., 515 Main St., Bangor. 4-H animal shows, demolition derby, Frisbee-catching dog
Nineties nostalgia: Smash Mouth will be headlining The Maine Lobster Festival on August 7.
J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 2 3
2016 Maine festivals guide demolition derbies, harness racing, grizzly bear show, pig scramble, midway, agricultural exhibits, laser tag, magic show, and live music, Aug. 11-20. 474-2947 skowheganstatefair.com Springfield Fair, Rte. 169. Laser tag, agricultural event, monster trucks, and crafts, Sept. 2-5. 738-4134 thespringfieldfair.com Topsham Fair, Valhalla Dr. Sheep herding, blueberry pie contest, live bluegrass music, agricultural show, demolition derby, fireworks, and truck pulls, Aug. 9-14. 729-1943.
Fryeburg Fair, “Maine’s Blue Ribbon Classic,” Oct.2-9. show, July 29-Aug. 7. bangorstatefair.com Blue Hill Fair, 233 Ellsworth Rd. Animals, live music, helicopter rides, fireworks, gardening, cooking, and crafts. Contests include largest squash and best blueberry pie, Sept. 1-5. 374-3701 bluehillfair.com Clinton Lions Fair, 1450 Bangor Rd. Rides, food, harness racing, and family fun, Sept. 8-11. clintonlionsfair.com
from top: blueberry pie - public domain; Suze Kinney; Andy Molloy
Cumberland County Fair, Cumberland Fairgrounds. Exhibition halls, midway, livestock, animal pulls, demolition derby, barbecue, and pumpkin and squash weigh-offs Sept. 9-18.
cumberlandfair.com Eliot Festival Days, various locations around town. 5K road race, crafts, food booths, pancake breakfast, parade, and fireworks, Sept. 23-24. eliot5kandfestival.com Farmington Fair. Livestock, midway, harness racing, and animal pulling, Sept. 18-24. farmingtonfairmaine.com Fryeburg Fair, “Maine’s Blue Ribbon Classic” since 1851. Livestock, pig scramble, midway rides, sheepdog trials, a woodsmen’s field day of timberrelated competitions, live music, magicians, storytelling, and puppets, Oct. 2-9. 935-3268. fryeburgfair.com
Harmony Free Fair, Route 154. Every Labor Day weekend since 1947, with a parade, horse show, rides, zombie run, sheepdog demonstration, and animal barn, Sept. 2-5. Harmonyfreefair. weebly.com Monmouth Fair, 79 Academy Rd. Since 1907, live bands and performances, horse and steer pulling, barrel racing, bicycle raffle, sheepdog demonstrations, and pig scramble, Aug. 4-7. monmouthfair.com Northern Maine Fair and Music Festival, Presque Isle. Annually since 1855, the fair features both modern entertainment– live music and rides–along with traditional events, such as 4-H competi-
tions, Jul. 29-Aug.6. northernmainefairgrounds.com Oxford County Fair, . 68 Pottle Road. Livestock shows, horse pulling, pig scramble, petting zoo, ATV and lawnmower pulls, traditional farming and crafting demonstrations, live music, and food, Sept. 14-17. oxfordcountyfair.com Piscataquis Valley Fair, Fairview Ave., DoverFoxcroft. Celebrate the 128th anniversary with homemade ice cream, milking parlor, agricultural exhibits, demolition derby, midway, and an AC/DC tribute, Aug. 25-28. 564-3689. piscataquisvalleyfair.com
Harness racing at Windsor Fair, Aug. 28- Sept. 5
Skowhegan State Fair, Constitution Ave. The oldest continuously run agricultural fair in the nation features truck pulls,
topshamfair.net Union Fair, Union Fairgrounds. Blueberry festival, crowning of the Blueberry Queen, talent show, fireworks, dock dogs competition, live music, bubblegum-blowing competition, and fireworks, Aug. 20-27. unionfair.org Windsor Fair, Windsor Fairgrounds. A tradition since 1888 encompassing 275 acres, with livestock, a pumpkin contest, harness racing, woodsman day, and barrel racing, Aug. 28-Sept. 5. Ridge Rd. windsorfair.com York Days, Short Sands Beach. Concerts, crafts, softball tournament, and other events all week, Jul. 22-Jul. 31. yorkparksandrec.org
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2016 Maine festivals guide jay-livermore-lf.org/apfest
Apple Pumpkin Festival, Livermore Falls. Food, music, kids’ activities, crafts, Sept. 24. 897-6755.
Damariscotta Pumpkinfest and Regatta. Pinkham’s Plantation, 431 Biscay Rd. Pumpkin-boat
Cornish Apple Festival, 17 Maple St., Cornish. 5k road race, craft and produce vendors, apple-pie baking competition, food booths with apple and non-apple offerings, and live entertainment, Sept. 24. cornish-maine.org
Beware, landlubbers: Eastport Pirate Festival, Sept. 9-11.
regatta and derby, pumpkin catapulting, giant pumpkin art, pumpkin-pie eating, and parade, Oct. 1-7. damariscottapumpkinfest.com Frenchboro Lobster Festival, Bass Harbor Ferry Terminal. Live music, raffles, and lobster, Aug. 13. 334-2974. frenchboro-dinner.org Harvestfest, Short Sands Beach, York. Traditional fall harvest food, kids activities, crafts, and music, Oct. 15. maineoktoberfest.org Harvest on the Harbor, Ocean Gateway, Portland. 8th annual food and wine festival (21+ only). Chef demonstrations, lobster chef competition, Brews & Blues BBQ, tastng events, Oct. 20-23. harvestontheharbor.com
Great Falls Balloon Festival, Aug. 19-21 Machias Wild Blueberry Festival. Dedication to Maine’s berry of choice is done up in syrup, a pieeating contest, tours of a blueberry farm, blueberry quilt raffle, and a blueberry musical, Aug. 16-21. machiasblueberry.com Maine Harvest Festival, Cross Insurance Ctr., Bangor. A delicious celebration of Maine’s small farms and their bounty,Nov. 19-20. maineharvestfestival.com Maine Lakes Brew Fest, Point Sebago Beach. The area’s largest annual
sampling event and Oktoberfest features Maine-made beers, micro-brews, and wine; with food, live music, and the Point Sebago Craft Fair, Sept. 24.mainelakesbrewfest.com Maine Lobster Festival, Rockland’s Harbor Park. Starring 20,000 pounds of Maine lobster, with a parade, cooking contests, blues and rock bands, marine biology education, and a feast with a view of Penobscot Bay, Aug. 3-7. (800) 576-7512. mainelobsterfestival.com Redneck Blank, Pig Roast and Music Festival, 12 Harold Ln., Hebron. Feasting with live music, redneck-themed contest, and a charity derby, Jul. 28-Jul. 31. 966-3333. redneckblank.eventbrite.com St. Peter’s Annual Italian
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Food festivals Acadia’s Oktoberfest & Food Festival, 20 Main St., Southwest Harbor. Wine and cheese tasting, Maine-based brewfest, locally sourced food, and crafts, Oct. 7-8. acadiaoktoberfest.com
Bazaar, 72 Federal St., Portland. 90th year of amazing food and fun games, Aug. 12-14. 773-7746 Taste of Greater Waterville, Downtown. Food booths and fine dining, sidewalk sales, craft vendors, live music, kids events, face painting, and a petting zoo, Aug. 3. tasteofwaterville.com Ploye Festival & Muskie Derby, Fort Kent. Giant griddle cakes and giant fish: Traditional Acadian buckwheat griddle cakes festival in conjunction with the annual popular and competitive 3-day fishing derby with a $35k prize for the biggest fish. Muskellunges are challenging freshwater sport fish, and the St. John River has 225 miles of muskie habitat. Aug. 12-14. fortkent-muskie.com & ployes.com Wells Chili-Fest, Wells Junior High School on Rte. 1. Sanctioned by the International Chili Society, winners in various categories have the opportunity to advance to the World Chili Championship Cook-Off, Aug. 27. wellschilifest.com Wilton Blueberry Festival. Blueberrythemed parades, live music, food, bingo, boat tours, and crafts, Aug. 5-6. 778-4726 wiltonbbf.com
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2016 Maine festivals guide
Winter Harbor Lobster Festival. A downeast celebration with blueberry pancake breakfast, lobsterboat races, 5K road race, and lobster dinner, Aug. 13. acadia-schoodic.org Arts Festivals Blistered Fingers Bluegrass Festival, Litchfield Fairgrounds. Hundred converge for this rendezvous featuring both local and national bluegrass bands, Aug. 24-28. blisteredfingers.com Camden International Film Festival. The 10th anniversary of the festival created to highlight emerging documentary filmmakers. Screening more than 70 films, most followed by Q&A sessions with the artists, Sept. 15-18. 593-6593 camdenfilmfest.org
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Bucksport Art Festival, August 13. Deer Isle Jazz Festival. Detroit-born pianist and jazz singer Geri Allen will headline the 15th annual festival at Stonington Opera House. Clarinetist Evan Christopher and drummer Shannon Powell will also perform Aug. 12-Aug. 13. operahousearts.org Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, Wells. Hundred of artisans exhibit their wares, along with music, and food., Sept. 10-11 wellsreserve.org Rangeley Art Show, Village Park, Oquossoc. Over 50 artists and craftsmen enter pieces in a juried art competition. Paintings, photography, jewelry, woodwork, pottery, and glass pieces available for sale, Aug. 4. rangeleyarts.org
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Italian Heritage Center 40 Westland Avenue, Portland, ME 04102 207-772-2500 FAX: 207-780-8505 www.italianheritagecenter.com
Email ihcmgr@maine.rr.com Email your your inquires inquiries to: k_mcdonough@yahoo.com Engines at the ready for the Wings and Wheels Spectacular, Aug. 6-7, Owl’s Head Transportation Museum. 2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
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2016 Maine festivals guide
Outdoors Festivals Beach Olympics, Town Square and Palace Playland, Old Orchard Beach. Three days of competition, music, and displays to benefit the Maine Special Olympics, Aug. 19-21. 9342500 oldorchardbeachmaine.com Belfast Harbor Fest. Launch party in a harborside tent with live music, 5K bug run, National Boatbuilding Contest, small-boat show, regatta, and plenty of lobster, Aug. 19-21. 338-2081. belfastharborfest.com Brunswick Outdoors Festival, Maine St., downtown Brunswick. Free event with more than 100 artists’ booths, artisan demos, live music, dancing, and kids’ activities to celebrate the arts, Aug. 20. brunswickdowntown.org Bucksport Bay Festival, Bucksport waterfront. Parade, 5K road race, games, fireworks, Jul. 22-24. bucksportbaychamber.com Camden Windjammer Festival, Camden waterfront. Celebration of maritime heritage and traditions including exhibits, food, fireworks, lobster crate racing, and educational seafaring stories. Cruising schooners are open for tours, or take
a smaller schooner out on the water for a sail, Sept. 2-4. camdenwindjammerfestival.org Crown of Maine Balloon Fest, Presque Isle. Balloon rides, balloon flights, meet the crews and captains, crafts, and entertainment, Aug. 25-28. crownofmaineballoonfest.org Eastport Pirate Festival, downtown Eastport. Pirate parade, reenactments, races, cutlass fights, and a costumed pet show, Sept. 9-11. eastportpiratefestival.com
Old Crow Medicine Show, September 16, State Theatre. lobstermantri.com year to see dozens of balloons launch near the Androscoggin River. The festival has food vendors, craft booths, and children’s activities, too, Aug. 19-21. greatfallsballoonfestival.org
Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors Show, Rockland waterfront. The only in-water boat show in the state, accompanied by land-based events such as architecture exhibitions, jewelry displays, marine gear vendors, live music, and food, Aug. 12-14 maineboats.com/ boatshow
Fall Festival Weekend, Sunday River Resort. The unofficial kickoff to Sunday River’s winter season, the festival includes live Harborfest, Belfast. music, a beer garden, wine Seventh annual Harbortasting, arts & crafts, scenic lift and wagon rides, children’s Lobsterman Triathlon, Freeport, Sept. 17. games and activities, and the famous North American Wife Carrying Championship, Oct. 8-9. (800) 543-2754 sundayriver.com Forest Heritage Days, Greenville. Honoring the ties between the Maine forest and the Moosehead community with food, crafts, exhibitions, and the Logging Games, Aug. 12-13. forestheritagedays.com Great Falls Balloon Festival, Lewiston/Auburn. Nearly 100,000 visitors come every
Vintage Motorcycle Meet, Sept. 3-4, Owl’s Head Transportation Museum. 3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
fest, featuring blueberry pancake breakfast, the Come Boating! Regatta, and live music. Aug. 19-21. belfastharborfest.com International Seaplane Fly-In, Greenville. On the shores of Moosehead Lake, enjoy fly-bys by rare aircraft, a craft fair, a steakand-lobster cookout, lake cruise, flying, raffles, and contests, Sept.8-11. 6952928 seaplanefly-in.org Lobsterman Triathlon, Freeport. One of the top triathlons in the country, this Olympic-distance “destination race” includes a postrace lobster bake, Sept. 17.
Maine Highland Games & Scottish Festival, Topsham Fairgrounds. Contests of strength, pipe bands, sheepdogs, dancing, and a gathering of clans, Aug. 20. mainehighlandgames.org
Maine Outdoor Film Festival Three Rivers Whitewater Rafting, West Forks. Mainefocused short adventure films, screened in tents alongside the Kennebec River, Sept. 3. maineoutdoorfilmfestival.com MS Regatta & Harborfest, Portland waterfront. A weekend festival with sailboats, powerboats, tugboats, and lobster boats to benefit the National Multiple Sclerosis Society, including a regatta, racing, and an auction, Aug. 1921.msharborfest.org Outdoor Sporting Heritage Day, Oquossoc clubhouse. Flycasting competition, game
meals, interactive exhibits, kids’ activities, and ecology education, Aug. 9. rangeleymaine.com Piscataquis River Festival, Guilford. This year’s Wizardof-Oz-themed festival will feature a parade, food and craft vendors, live music, and a duck race, Jul. 30. townofguilford.com Punkinfiddle Family Festival and National Estuaries Day Celebration, 342 Laudholm Farm Rd., Wells. Live music, traditional arts demonstrations, sheepdogs, and horses gather to celebrate the beauty and value of Maine’s estuaries, and to foster environmental stewardship, Sept. 24. wellsreserve.org Standup Paddleboard Races, Willard Beach, South Portland. Casco Bay Race Series, each race is 2.5 miles. Every Saturday at 4:30pm. 317-0425. soposup.com Summerfest, Wiscasset Common. Live music, crafts, dog show and parade, food, and community enjoyment of high summer, to benefit local charities, July 23. 882-7544. uccwiscasset.org/summerfest Sunday River Open Dart Tournament, Sunday River Resort. Zipline tours, hiking, mountain biking, and disc golf, in addition to dart matches with a $10k grand prize, Sept. 16-
From top: OCMS press photo; courtesy lobsterman triathlon; file
Picnic Music + Arts Festival, Lincoln Park, Portland. Juried indie craft fair showcasing and selling the best in crafts and vintage goods, with live music and tasty food, Aug. 6. Picnicportland.com
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Visit Castle Tucker & Nickels-Sortwell House Wiscasset, Maine For information, visit HistoricNewEngland.org or call 207-882-7169 $1 off museum admission with this ad
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2016 Maine festivals guide 18. sundayriver.com
music, waterfront events, raft race, Passamaquoddy Native-American demonstrations, Celtic music, and a lumberjack contest, Aug. 3-7. Internationalhomecomingfestival.com
Learning festivals Acadia Night Sky Festival, Bar Harbor. Night hikes, a paddle in a bioluminescent bay, science presentations, and themed movies in this celebration of the best stargazing site on the Eastern seaboard, Sept. 22-25. acadianightskyfestival.com
be at the park for two full days with native dancers, drummers, craft vendors, singers, and traditional food booths, Aug. 13-14. maine.gov/ifw/education/ wildlifepark
Attean Memorial Pow Wow, Maine Wildlife Park, Gray. Tribal representatives from Maine, New England, and around the country will
Common Ground Country Fair, Unity. Celebrate the organic and rural version of the good life and learn new things about
Acadia Night Sky Festival, Sept. 22-25.
farming. Agricultural demonstrations–milking, blacksmithing, composting, stoneworking, orchardgrowing–plus produce and crafts vendors, food, music, and camping, Sept. 23-25. mofga.org/thefair Festival of Nations, Deering Oaks Park, Portland. Maine’s cultural diversity celebrity in Portland’s pretti-
est park. Featuring authentic ethnic food, crafts, music, and education,Jul. 30. 4201277. themugadifoundation. wordpress.com/festival-ofnations International Homecoming Festival, Calais. Celebrate the American-Canadian border and first French settlement in the New World. Arts and crafts fair,
Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, Laudholm Farm, Wells. This event brings more than 100 artisans, selected by jury, to exhibit their wares for thousands of browsers. Music, food, and fun round out the 2-day festival, Sept.10-11. wellsreserve.org Vintage Motorcycle Meet & Antique Aeroplane Show, Owls Head Transportation Museum. Military aircraft, high-wheel bicycles, classic cars, antique planes, and a high-speed aerobatic air show. Pre-1994 vehicles of any make or model are welcome to exhibit, with Model-T rides, vehicle demonstrations, and family
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Trails End Festival, downtown Millinocket. Parade, learn-to-paddle excursions, chili cook-off, and musical performances by Emily Guillow and Portland’s Mallet Brothers, Sept. 16-18. trailsendfestival.org
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fun, Sept. 3-4. owlshead.org Wings & Wheels Spectacular & Aerobatic Airshow, Owls Head Transportation Museum. This show highlights military aircraft, highwheel bicycles, classic cars, antique planes, and a high-speed aerobatic air show, Aug. 6-7. owlshead.org Theater Belfast Maskers, at locations around Belfast; see website. The Addams Family Musical, August; Noel Coward’s Blithe Spirit, Oct. 9307244 belfastmaskers.com
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Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Mike Miclon’s The Early Evening Show, first Saturday in Jul., Aug., Sept. & Oct.; See website for theater training workshops Jul.- Aug. 743-8452 celebrationbarn.com Children’s Museum & Theater of Maine, 142 Free St., Portland. Stage stories, daily. The 12 Labors of Heracles; Jun. 30 - Jul. 16; Icarus and Daedalus; Jul. 21- Aug. 16. Perseus and Medusa; Aug. 11 - 27. 828-1234 kitetails.org City Theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. West Side Story, Jul. 22-Aug. 7. 282-0849 citytheater.org Cold Comfort Theater, see website for Belfast locations. The Mikado, Aug. 3-6. 930-7244 coldcomforttheater.com Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison. Underfoot in Show Business, Jul. 15-29; Terminal Bar, Aug. 4-18. 583-6747 deertrees-theatre.org Fenix Theatre Company, at Deering Oaks Park, Portland. Much Ado About Nothing, Jul. 14–Aug. 6. fenixtheatre.com Freeport Community Players, 30 Freeport Performing Arts Center, Holbrook St., Freeport. Neil Simon’s The Odd Couple-Female Version, Jul. 15-31. 865-2220 fcponline.org
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Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 Route 9, Berwick. Once Upon A Mattress, Jul. 27-Aug. 13; Almost, Maine, Aug. 17-Sept. 3. 698-1807 hackmatack.org Heartwood Regional Theater Company, Lincoln Academy, Newcastle. See website for details.heartwoodtheater.org Gaslight Theater, Winthrop St., Hallowell. Agatha Christie’s Black Coffee, Aug. 19-28. 6263698 gaslighttheater.org Lakewood Theater, 75 Theater Rd., Madison.Chesire Cats, Jul. 7–16; Young Frankenstein, Jul. 21–30; Death by Design, Aug. 4–13. 474-7176 lakewoodtheater.org Maine State Ballet Theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. Can-Can Parisien, Aug. 11-20. 7817672 mainestateballet.org Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater,
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1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Fiddler on the Roof, Jul. 20-Aug. 6; Mamma Mia!, Aug. 10-27; Footlight Follies, Aug. 15; The Irish and How They Got That Way, Aug.16-Sept. 4. 725-8769 msmt.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. PORTopera presents: Carmen by Georges Bizet, Jul. 27-29; Nick Offerman and Megan Mullally, Aug. 30. 842-0800 porttix.com Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main St., Ogunquit. Hunchback of Notre Dame, Jul. 13-Aug. 6; Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, Aug. 10-Sept. 3; Seven Brides for Seven Brothers, Sept. 7-Oct. 1; Million Dollar Quartet, Oct. 5-Nov. 6. 656-5511 ogunquitplayhouse.org Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Calendar Girls, Sept. 8-25; Murder for Two, Oct. 20Nov. 6. 942-3333 penobscottheatre.org Portland Stage Company, 25 Forest Ave. The Irish and How They Got That Way, Aug. 16-Sept. 4. 7740645 portlandstage.org
casey jacques, courtesy circus maine
Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd., Standish. Beauty & The Beast, Jul. 14-31; 101 Dalmatians - Kids, Aug. 5-7; Clue, the Musical, Sept. 16-Oct. 2. 642-3743 schoolhousearts.org Theater at Monmouth, 796 Main St., Monmouth. Cyrano, through Aug. 19; Puss In Boots, Jul. 2-Aug. 18; Love’s Labours Lost, Jul. 7-Aug. 20; The Barber of Seville, Jul. 14-Aug. 21; Henry V, Jul. 21-Aug. 20; The Illusion, Jul. 28-Aug. 19; Boeing, Boeing, Sept. 15-25. 933-9999 theateratmonmouth.org Galleries Art Gallery at UNE, 716 Stevens Ave. Annual Sculpture Garden Invitational,
through Oct. 31. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery
Circus Maine Cabaret, August 19-21 at Thompson’s Point.
Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. Jay Bolotin: The Book of Only Enoch, through Oct. 8. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Barbara Cooney: Drawing Biography, through Aug. 21; Luke DuBois-Now, through Sept. 4; Renaissance Rivalries: Painting and its Sister Arts, through Nov. 27; This is a Portrait if I Say So: Identity in American Art, 1912 to Today, through Oct. 23. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/art-museum Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Picasso’s Vollard Suite, through Aug. 21; A Usable Past: American Folk Art at the Colby College Museum of Art, Jul. 9-Jan. 8. 8595600 colby.edu Continuum for Creativity, 863 Main St., Westbrook. Mary Brooking, Judy Schneider and Caren-Marie Michel: Sky | Woods | Sea, through July. 9252-9897 marybrooking.com Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. About Buildings, through 2017; American Treasures from the Farnsworth, through 2017; N.C Wyeth: Painter, through December; Andrew Wyeth: Dory, through November; From the Smallest Leaf: Photographs by Koichiro Kurita, through Sept. 11. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Aug. 5, Sep. 2. firstfridayartwalk.com Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. Designing Acadia: Maine’s National Park Experience, through Jan. 14, 2017;
Remembering the Great Portland Fire of 1866, through Oct. 774-1822 mainehistory.org Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland. Camille Davidson, through Sept. 5. mainejewishmuseum.org Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. Duncan Hewitt: Turning Strange, through Sep. 4; Georges Braque: Surface and Space, through Sep. 11; Skowhegan at Seventy, through Oct. 10; O’Keeffe, Stettheimer, Torr, Zorach, through Sep. 18. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org UMVA Gallery at CTN, 516 Congress Street, Portland. Branching Out: a collection of unique
photography of trees from 39 award-winning Maine photographers, through Aug. 27; Popham Art Show, Aug. 4-7. 671-7237 umvaonline.org Music Asylum, 121 Center St., Portland. Rap and Karaoke, every Wed.; Retro Night, every Thur.; Plague, every Fri. See website for upcoming concert dates. 772-8274 portlandasylum.com Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, Every Tues.; Irish Music Night, Every Wed.; see website for upcoming concert dates. 774-4111. portcityblue.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland. Phish,
Jul. 6; Kiss: Freedom to Rock Tour, Sept. 4. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Trivia Night, every Tues.; Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey and guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun.; TriviYeah!, every Mon.; Rhythm & Tues, every Tues.; Clash of the Titans, every Wed.; Fifth Freedom, Jul. 29. 7475063 portlandempire.com Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Jonathan Edwards, Jul. 28; Tierney
J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 3 5
Experience
Sutton: “After Blue” The Joni Mitchell Project, Jul. 31; Madeleine Peyroux, Aug. 4 & 5; Kathy Mattea with Bill Cooley, Aug. 7; Jimmy Keys, Aug. 13; John Sebastian, Aug. 14; Aztec TwoStep & Devonsquare, Aug. 19; Lori McKenna, Sep. 10; Tommy Cash, Sep. 29. 646-4526 jonathansogunquit.com
JUL 13 - AUG 6
A JOURNEY TO THE HEART OF FABULOUS!
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GET YOUR 207.646.5511 TICKETS OgunquitPlayhouse.org TODAY! 10 Main St (Rte 1) Ogunquit, ME
Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Orgelfest16, Aug. 2, 9, 16, 23; Celtic Thunder Legacy, Aug. 27; Krazy ‘bout Kotzschmar – Thomas Heywood, Sep. 20Classic Rock – Portland Symphony Orchestra, Sep. 24, 25. 842-0800 porttix.com One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland. Aug. 25, Sep. 22; Matthew Logan Vasquez, Jul. 25; Hiss Golden Messenger, Jul. 28; Shel, Jul. 29; David Mallett and the Mallett Brothers Band, Aug. 2; Dallahan, Aug. 14; The East Pointers, Aug. 24; The Gothard Sisters, Sep. 6; Jonathan Edwards, Sep. 16; Jon McLaughlin, Sep. 20. 761-1757 onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. Unknown Mortal Orchestra, Jul. 25; The Paper Kites, Jul. 29; The Struts, Aug. 1; Best Coast, Aug. 2; Hari Kondabolu, Aug. 5; The Wombats, Aug. 10; Dopapod, Aug. 25; Justin Townes Earle, Sep. 11; Judge John Hodgman, Sep. 16; Mighty Mystic, Sep. 23. 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com Ani DeFranco at Stone Mountain Arts Center August 30.
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Portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 Temple St., Portland. TRVP Nite, every Sun.; Funky Mondays, every Mon; Wednesday Happy Hour with The Working Dead, Afro Beat Music Night, every Weds. Live Music Mon. through Sat., see website for more listings. 8050134 portlandhouseofmusic.com State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. Silversun Pickups, Jul. 25; Beirut, Jul. 31; Melanie Martinez, Aug. 1; The Australian Pink Floyd Show, Aug. 7; Toots & the Maytals, Aug. 20; The Claypool Lennon Delirium, Aug. 28; Old Crow Medicine Show, Sep. 16; The Kills, Sep. 20; CHVRCHES, Sep. 21; For King & Country, Sep. 23; The Devil Makes Three, Sep. 24; Brian Fallon & The Crowes/Ryan Bingham, Sep. 25. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com
491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite) 3 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Aug. 5; The Wood Brothers, Aug. 18; Lori McKenna, Aug. 19; Peter Wolf, Aug. 21, 22; The Mallett Brothers Band, Aug. 25;
from top: shervin lainez; press photo
Authentic Thai Cooking
Longfellow BOOKS
CHVRCHES, September 21, State Theatre.
Humming House, Aug. 26; Ani DiFranco, Aug. 30. 935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com Thompson’s Point, Portland. The Lumineers, Aug. 5; Leon Bridges, Sep. 9. statetheatreportland.com/thompsons-point Tasty events Belgian Beer Fest, 58 Fore St., Portland. Two sessions of authentic Belgian beer samplings, Sep. 17. beeradvocate.com/Belgian
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Browne Trading Company, 262 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings, one or more Sat. every month, 1-5 pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St., Portland. Craft beer tastings every Fri. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Farm to Fork Fondo, Wolfe’s Neck Farm, Freeport. A bicycle ride with mid-ride aid stations hosted by local farms; a pre-ride dinner in the Wolfe’s Neck Farm Mallet Barn; a postride Maine lobster bake and barbecue. farmforkfondo.com Flanagan Farm, 668 Narragansett Trail (Rt. 202), Buxton. Benefit dinners prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland Trust. 2016 is “Word Play: The Color Series.” Pink: Wilson Rothschild of Terlingua and Anders Tallberg of Roustabout, Jul. 31; {Men in} Black: Sous-per Crew (Ian Driscoll - Central Provisions, Rocky Hunter – David’s, Matthew Jauck – Earth at Hidden Pond, Brewster Taylor – The Honey Paw, William White – Vignola Cinque Terre) Aug. 7; Orange: Ilma Lopez and Damian Sansonetti of Piccolo, Andrew Taylor and Michael Wiley of Hugo’s, Oct. 2. flanaganstable.com
Plus Cards, Journals, Gifts & Portland’s Largest Selection of Magazines
Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St., Portland. Music Brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St., Portland. Tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11 p.m.; wines & small plates pairings. 775-5652 lolita-portland.com Maine Lobster Festival, Rockport. Steamed lobsters, family activities, arts and crafts, live entertainment, Aug. 3-7. mainelobsterfestival.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings every third Wed. 772-9463 oldportwine.com
Monument Square, Portland 207-772-4045 www.longfellowbooks.com
Otherside Deli, 164 Veranda St., Portland. J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 3 7
Experience Wine tasting every first Tues. 761-9650 othersidedeli.com Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St., Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings all the time. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com Summer Beer Festival, Thompson’s Point, Portland. The state’s biggest brew festival returns with Maine beers, food trucks, live music and more, Jul. 23. mainebrewersguild.org/beerfestival Don’t miss Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St., Bangor. WWE Live Summerslam Tour, Jul. 16; Ron White, Jul. 30. 561-8300 crossinsurancecenter.com Great Falls Balloon Festival, Simard-Payne Memorial Park, Lewiston. Food, family fun and a sky full of hot air balloons, Aug. 19-21. greatfallsballoonfestival.org Maine Highland Games and Scottish Festival, Topsham Fairgrounds, Topsham. Feats of strength, haggis, kilts and bagpipes—need we say more? Aug. 20. mainehighlandgames.org Open Farm Day, various locations. Farms across the state offer up demonstrations for fun and education as well as tours, milking, hay rides and more, Jul. 24. See website for locations. getrealmaine.com
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Choose an adventure to fit your style. Casco Bay Lines offers scenic cruises to the islands off Portland’s shore–choices range from a family outing to a romantic dinner get-away. Bring your bike, kayak, or walking shoes. Explore the islands. There truly is something for everybody! Visit www.cascobaylines.com/portlandmagoffer to download a money saving coupon.
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Experience
The Theater of Maine
Picnic Museum and Art Festival, Lincoln Park, Portland. Indie crafts and vintage wares fill Lincoln park for Portland’s kitschiest fair, Aug. 6. Picnicportland.com Portland Science Center, 68 Commercial Street, Maine Wharf, Portland. Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition, summer. portlandsciencecenter.com Circus Maine, 4 Thompson’s Point, Portland. Cabarets, August 19-21, 7pm, $12-$16. 5360768 circusmaine.org –Compiled by Jeanee Dudley
Maine’s City Magazine
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Buy Tickets: 207.774.0465 portlandstage.org 25A Forest Ave, Portland, Maine 4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
In the Heart of the Arts District
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courtesy photos
PORTLANDSTAGE
Loren Coleman, Director/Founder
Coleman, Director/Founder AsLoren appearing on CBS Sunday Morning and As appearing on CBS Sunday Morning and Mysteries at the Museum. Mysteries at the Museum.
11 Avon Street • Portland, ME 04101 • crytozoologymuseum.com • 4 Thompson’s Point, Portland, ME 04102 •
11 Avon Street • Portland, ME 04101 • crytozoologymuseum.com CRYPTOZOOLOGYMUSEUM.COM
THE MUSEUM HAS RE-LOCATED TO THOMPSON’S POINT, AHEAD OF SCHEDULE, AND WE ARE NOW OPEN THERE FROM JULY 2016, INTO THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE.
We Have Wonders the Whole is Searching For. We Have World Wonders for Which
We Have Wonders TheWorld world’s only The Whole is Searching the Whole World is Searching cryptozoology museum For. THe TheWorld’s world’sOnly only Cryptozoology cryptozoologyMuseum museum Cryptozoology is the scientific study of hidden animals such as Bigfoot, Yetis, Nessies, and Chupacabras!
Open all Wednesdays through Mondays (including all holidays), 11 am to 3:30 pm. Closed every Tuesday. Adults $7, 12 and under $5
Cryptozoology is the scientific study of hidden animals such as Bigfoot, Yetis, Nessies, and Chupacabras! Cryptozoology is the scientific study of hidden animals such as Bigfoot, Yetis, Nessies, and Chupacabras!
Open all Wednesdays Mondays (including all holidays). Open through all Wednesdays through Mondays (including all holidays), 11 am to 3:30 pm. Closed every Tuesday. Check website for extended evening hours. 11 am 3:30 pm. Closed Admission: Adults, $10;toSeniors (65+) $8 every Tuesday. Children (12 & under) Adults $5; $7, Babies 12 and (remaining under $5 in stroller or arms) Free.
Chowder
A ta s t y bl e n d of th e fa bu lou s, notewo r thy, a n d a bsu rd. Made in Italy. Sold in Maine.
J
oining the ranks of British brand FatFace who opened their first U.S. store last month on Exchange Street (because they visited and just “really liked it here”), O bag has delivered European flair to Middle Street. Jo Hoppe, who owns two O bag stores in Massachusetts, was convinced by her daughter, a Portland resident, to open her next shop front here. “It’s just such a vibrant young city, my daughter told me I simply had to bring O bag to Portland.” Their minimalist accessories allow you to mix-and-match your bag handles and accessories to suit your mood. In theory you’ll never need to buy another purse again…
Give It A Toss
Clockwise from top left: Joe Hegarty @News ProJoe; courtesy photo; jessica lynn; tristan spinski
Every Tuesday evening in a tent on the 58 Fore Street lot opposite the Narrow Gauge Railway a league of avid cornholers, with team names like “I Swear We Get Better,” launch their beanbags in the hope of glory. Founders of the Portland Cornhole League Jessica Pachuta and Greg Dutcher were surprised by its momentum. “It’s really catching on,” says Pachuta, whose job in event operations at The Portland Co. provides her a liquor license to keep players refreshed. “Attendance has practically doubled since May.” What’s the secret to cornhole’s success (beside the spirits license)? “Cornhole is great for everyone. It doesn’t discriminate.” portlandcornhole.com, $20 a month per person.
p u h s a M r e t Mons
T
he hunt for the elusive Wessie continues in Westbrook, following a sighting of a 10-foot-long snake eating a large mammal in Riverbank Park, a popular chidren’s play area. The rumored serpent has sent residents into hiss-terics, with numerous Have You Seen Wessie? posters cropping up in local businesses. The name Wessie seems a play on “Cassie,” a sobriquet the Portland Magazine design staff came up with in 1986 to describe the Casco Bay Sea Serpent while laying out a story by Loren Coleman about the creature. And, oh, yes, there’s Nessie, in Loch Ness, Scotland, with her so-called prior claim…
N o t s o l o n e ly G o at h e r d Leave the battle against invasive garden weeds to the experts this summer. Their names are Gertrude, Ray, Zephyr, Molly, Sawyer, Bernadette, and Cleo…and they’re goats. Owned by Chris & Heather Lombard of SCAPEGOATS, the Caprine landscapers can eat away half an acre of unwelcome vegetation, such as poisonous ivy and Japanese knotweed, a week for $500-$700. And the fertilizer they deposit is free. “We’ve had such a positive response,” Heather says. “Several big public parks are interested in hiring the goats!” Perhaps we’ll be seeing four-legged gardeners at Fort Williams Park someday soon? ecoscapegoats.com. J u ly / A u g u st 2 0 1 6 4 3
Creating new memories. FINE ANTIQUE & ESTATE JEWELRY & GIFTS BUYERS AND SELLERS 15 OCEAN AVE • KENNEBUNKPORT • 207.967.1285 254 MAIN ST • OGUNQUIT • 207.216.9917 STONEHOMEESTATEJEWELERS.COM
P o rt l a n d a f t e r dark
F loating the
Perfect Evening
from top: kim seng; courtesy wine wise events
The Maine coastline has an irresistible pull during the summer months. Stay there all night long with our guide to drinking, dining, and dancing on the water.
F
B y K a r e n H ofreiter
or three months every year Portland’s familiar seascape of grey, restless waters meeting moody slate skies takes on a theatrical transformation. Sienna sunsets make their blazing debut before slipping into the cerulean depths, a celebratory curtain call to another summer day. These not-to-be-missed performances–like all good things–are here for a limited time only, so catch them while you can. And the best seats? Out on the water. paddling out Nothing encompasses summer magic like a Moonlight Paddle or Sunset Sea Kayak
Into the drink: Wine Wis e and Maine Sailing Adventu res team up to combine wine tasting with breathtaking seaviews.
tour with Portland Paddle. Tours depart from East End Beach, 370-9730, portlandpaddle.net; Sunset Sea tours daily through September 11 (adults $40); Moonlight Paddle every Friday through August 26 (adults $45). Exact times depend on sunset. Starting from East End beach, tours follow the jagged coast along the Eastern Prom, gliding past the osprey nests by Ocean Gateway, the mouth of the open ocean at Fort Gorges, and the birds diving at Pomroy Rock. Under the star-studded sky with views of the summer constellations Lyra and the Summer
Triangle, surprises are always possible along the way. “We’ve gone out during the Perseid meteor shower and seen dozens of shooting stars lighting up the sky. We’ve headed out just after [a thunderstorm] and spotted rainbows stretching over the islands. We’ve started out paddling in fog only to have it suddenly dissipate, revealing a gorgeous sunset and wide-open views of the bay. We often see seals. Sometimes they pop up right beside the boats. On a rare occasion during a new moon, bioluminescence can J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 4 5
Portland a f t e r d a r k
be seen—sometimes just a sparkle here and there, sometimes so bright that the paddles glow as they’re dragged through the water,” says Zack Anchor, proprietor. But at the end of a summer’s day, “It’s the sunset that really steals the show.”
A
t Maine Island Kayak Co. (Peaks Island, 207.766.2373, maineislandkayak.com; tours meet at 5 p.m., adults $60-$65) there’s also a kayak Sunset Trip which departs from Peaks Island, meaning you can first enjoy a ferry ride from the mainland and a three-mile headstart into Casco Bay. Pleasure Boats If after a long, sweltering day you’d prefer someone else to do the paddling, consider hopping aboard one of the many evening cruises available around Portland. The Sunset Lighthouse Cruise offered by Portland Discovery Tours (Long Wharf, Portland, 774-0808, portlanddiscovery.com; daily through Sept. 5, see website for exact times, adults $26) is quintessential Maine, combining a narrated tour of the iconic marine structures against a dazzling sunset backdrop. Jacob Charette, office manager, describes the tour: “We get up close to Portland Breakwater Light (Bug Light), Spring Point Ledge Light, Portland Head Light, and Ram Island Ledge Light. Occasionally we can get out past Portland Head Light for a glimpse of Two Lights. On a nice, clear day, we can sometimes see Halfway Rock Light4 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly ma g a z i n e
house. The guides tell stories and anecdotes. For example, Bug Light is designed after the Greek monument Lysicrates, and its name came about because everyone thought it was ‘cute as a bug.’” For a real treat, book a private evening charter with Fish Portland Maine (pick up
in-town Portland by calling 619-1584, fishportlandmaine.com; 2-hour charter for up to 6 people, $150). Sip on your favorite local brew (it’s BYOB) while listening to the selfdescribed “historical, anecdotal, and smart aleck commentary” of Capt. Mike Faulkingham. According to the Captain, high-
On the High Seas
Casablanca Concert Cruise series hosts a signature trip around Casco Bay featuring live bands throughout the summer months. The Maine Dead Project Presents “The Lost Sailor,” Aug. 5, tickets $20; Summer Sessions Boat Cruise, Aug. 8, tickets $25; A Mighty Lion, Aug. 13, tickets $15; The Cover Tones, Aug. 27, tickets $15; Radio Revival, Sept. 11, tickets $20. casablancamaine.com Classic schooners Bagheera and Wendameen take daily trips around Casco Bay. Bring your packed lunch and cold beer and soak up the sea view. Cruises depart four times daily. $42 per adult. Also available for private charter. Above: an outtake from the Casco Bay cruise aboard schooner Bagheera pictured on our front cover. portlandschooner.com Portland Discovery Tours offer private lobster bake dinner for as many as 45 guests aboard the Bay View Lady. Sample traditional Maine fare while cruising picturesque Casco Bay. portlanddiscovery.com
clockwise from top left: zach anchors; courtesy photo; bethany and dan cox
Enjoy a romantic sunset on the water with Portland Paddle.
ard Beach rding a boat: The Pier at Old Orch Fun on the water without boa fireworks show of the week. On Thursdays catch a offers a party pretty much any day the Patio Pub. at Sundays featuring Gorilla Finger (weather dependant), or Reggae on days. Karaoke Mondays and Comedy Tues
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lights of the tour include “Fort Gorges, Fort Scammel, and Fort Preble, as well as a craftily hidden lookout tower built on one of the islands (it’s a secret you won’t get to know unless you come out on a tour). However, I customize to my passengers’ hearts’ content. For example, if someone had an uncle who lived on Chebeague Island 60 years ago and they’ve always wanted to see the island, then we’ll do it.” Another unique aspect is the opportunity to catch your own dinner. “I always have a rod on board the boat for catching mackerel, so dropping a line is offered on every trip.” Instead of hitting happy hour like a landlubber, how about sipping wine while riding with the wind? Maine Sailing Adventures (Maine State Pier, Portland, 749-9169, mainesailingadventures.net), in conjunction with Wine Wise, offers a Wine Sail aboard classic schooner Frances (Saturdays and Sundays, 6-8 p.m., for reservations call 619-4630, winewiseevents.com) with a tasting led by expert sommelier Erica Archer. Even the skipper is a fan of this classy booze
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cruise. “I personally love it when she hosts the sparkling wines paired with the oysters!” says Captain Megan Jones. Maine Sailing Adventures also offers a soulful, mellow evening with their Acoustic Sunset Sail (Acoustic Sunset Sail, 6-8 p.m., adult $42, see events calendar for exact dates and reservation information). “It’s a unique thing we have going down on the Portland waterfront,” says Captain Jones. “It’s not your typical tour boat at all. I bet that’s why half, if not more, of the guests we have onboard are Portlanders themselves.”
L
ooking for an alternative to dinner and a movie? Why not dinner and a voyage? Casco Bay Lines (56 Commercial Street, Portland, 774-7871, cascobaylines.com) in conjunction with Maria’s restaurant, presents an evening of Italian food and Sinatra tunes at Cruisin’ with the Crooner’s and Friends (Aug. 24, 6-9 p.m., $59.99, tickets 207-233-9232). Casco Bay Lines also offers regular high-energy music cruises. n
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M e t ropole
I came back to
Portland after graduating from Emerson for journalism. A Kickstarter campaign helped us launch the food truck into reality.” –Arvid Brown, Fishin’ Ships
Food Truck
Confidential
A whole new crowd of cultural stars just rolled in. But who are they?
T
By Sarah Moore
meaghan Maurice
he mobile food craze that has spread like wildfire through every major city in the world hit Portland in 2012, or maybe we just finally ran out of building space for more restaurants. We meet the people behind the wheel of Portland’s most dynamic and diverse food scene. flavors from away The vision of Austin Miller, 28, and Hana Tamaki, 25, Mami food truck delivers a taste of authentic Osaka-style street food to Portland. A former chef at the East Ender, Miller was invited to show off his prowess on the Food Network’s Chopped Challenge in May, despite never having attended culinary school. However, when Miller left the restaurant game last year j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 5 1
Metropole
The daughter
of one of Portland’s first sushi chefs, Hana Tamaki learned the art of traditional Japanese cooking at home. Caption
Mami food truck
to open Mami, he became Tamaki’s student. The daughter of one of Portland’s first sushi chefs, Tamaki learned the art of traditional Japanese cooking at home. “I was expected to cook for the family from a young age. As I grew older, friends from high school would come over to try real Japanese food for the first time. They were hooked!” Now in its second summer on the circuit, the sleek black and botanical food truck is a flashy visitor to local breweries and festivals. The couple describe the menu, which offers favorites such as the rich and salty Yaki Soba and the more adventurous bacon Okonomiyaki (translation: “what you like”), featuring shavings of dried fish that 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
wave like tentacles under heat, as “Japanese comfort food.” Entering a food truck scene that in 2015 was largely populated by BBQ and Mexican favorites, Miller recalls a certain amount of reservation among customers toward their exotic menu. “People would approach and ask if there was anything kid-friendly. We’d say, ‘It’s all kid-friendly. Our toddler eats everything here!’ Our mission is to introduce people to real Japanese food.” Mami now boasts a loyal following and a packed summer schedule. “We’re totally booked out until October,” says Tamaki, who’s also studying part-time at SMCC. After that, future plans include a stint work-
ing and traveling in Japan over the winter before returning to Maine with a new menu and fresh ambition. “We’d love to get back into brick and mortar, something fun and relaxed–a take-out joint with great beer and room for the truck outside. Something like an “izakaya”– a Japanese pub, where people can come and relax, listen to music, and eat great food.” have fun with it The daringly named Muthah Truckah gives you a clue to owner Erica Dionne’s personality. One of the only food truck owners around town going it alone–without a partner or employees–she’s all energy and sass. Where did
the name truck’s name come from? “I was on a girls’ night out, and we’d all had a few beers. I was talking about my dream of opening a food truck and one of the girls yelled out, ‘I always knew you were a mother trucker!’” Dionne, 32, earned her stripes working in the family sandwich shop Fancy That! in Old Orchard Beach, and in her mother’s restaurant in Wells. Dionne credits her mother for her can-do attitude. “She was a single mother–I saw her do it all alone, with a kid and everything!–so I knew I could make a food truck work for myself. Sometimes it brings 16-hour days, but I think I’m superwoman! I want to do it all by myself.” A brief foray as a Subaru sales rep in 2012 confirmed Dionne’s desire to be her own boss. “I was told it was time I got a real career and a 401K. I gave it a try, but I decided that a ‘grown-up job’ just wasn’t for me!” The Muthah Truckah serves up meaty griddled sandwiches filled with fresh ingredients and homemade condiments. Try the signature “Lola,” a real crowd pleaser of roasted turkey, cheddar, arugula, chive mayo, and Dionne’s mouth-watering bacon jam. This trucker has no plans to switch her wheels for brick and mortar anytime soon. “I like the freedom the truck’s given me. It’s something you don’t get when you have an actual restaurant. I’d like to get into jarring my jams and condiments for sale in the future, but right now I just love what I’m doing.”
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e never started Fishin’ Ships with sales goals and targets in mind,” say co-owners Arvid Brown and Sam Gorelick, both 28. “But we’ve been pleased and surprised by the success we’ve had.” While the lack of a business plan would almost certainly mean the end of a restaurant, on the food-truck frontier. guts, youthful energy, and innovation can take you far. A successful Kickstarter campaign in 2014 helped the Emerson graduates raise the capital they needed to purchase a truck, and they quickly set about making the dream a reality. The menu is a spin on a classic streetfood combo: fish & chips. Brown’s father, a local fisherman of over 25 years, helped to inform and inspire Fishin’ Ships approach to sourcing and using the freshest local seafood. Forget the greasy British culinary counterpart–these guys take a non-traditional approach to the classic snack, blending exotic flavors inspired by their travels abroad. Try one of the smaller servings:
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“My mom talked to Isle and Juan to get me this job.
I was never really interested in Mexican food before. Then I tried this and I was like…damn.” –Smarlin German, El Rodeo server
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mouthfuls of fluffy fish taco and zesty salsa ($4), or haddock and bacon croquettes ($5), a perfect accompaniment to a craft beer. Brown and Gorelick also spotted the potential of the brewery scene early on, pairing up with Bissell Brothers in its infancy and growing their brands “in tandem.” “We started off serving around 30 people outside their tasting room in 2013. These days, we’ll serve over 130 in one shift.” True Millennials, the pair love the freedom the truck gives them to travel in the off-season, attend concerts, and build relationships with the city’s creative community. “We don’t want a restaurant! When you own a restaurant you can only hope people walk through your doors. With a food truck you can just put yourself in front of them!”
A brief foray as a Subaru sales rep in 2012 confirmed Dionne’s desire to be her own boss. The Muthah Truckah
meaghan Maurice
W
Twist on a classic hat do you do when you want to showcase your home-grown hot-sauce-making skills? You open your own burrito cart. At least that’s what Locally Sauced owners Charlie Eli, 32, and Aimee Ely, 31, from Scarborough decided after growing a bumper crop of peppers in their garden one year. The former accountant/marketeer duo launched their self-described “labor of love” onto the food-truck scene four years ago and have been delighting punters with their imaginative burrito creations ever since, including a blueberry salsa “so good you can brush your teeth with it.” The berries that make their sauces so unique grow on the family-owned Bradbury Mountain Berry Farm–which also happens to supply 3,000 pounds of strawberries and raspberries to Bissell Brother’s popular “Seed” brew during the summer. The Elys have since quit their desk jobs to commit full-time to the truck. They face a jam-packed summer ahead, serving at weddings, private events, and on the brewery circuit. Even so, there have been the odd bumps along the way: “Two years ago, driving home from a lunch shift, we hit the edge of the ramp off the highway. The trailer came unhitched, and the cart was completely totalled on the highway,” Aimee says. “You don’t have to worry about that sort of thing happening when you have a restaurant!” On the topic of restaurants: Any plans to follow the footsteps of Taco Trio and switch the wheels for brick and mortar? “We want to keep the cart going and continue creating our home-made salsas and hot sauces,
as well as developing the catering side of things. We also have plans to host events at the berry farm. And we have a three-month-old baby, so I think we’ve got our hands full for now!” Aimee says. In a city as saturated with eateries as Portland, it’s a challenge to make your brand stand out. However, the team behind Tacos del Seoul has discovered that pairing Korean BBQ with traditional Mexican cuisine is a dazzling way to grab attention. Childhood friends Josh Dionne, 35, and Doug Thompson, 35, who met as cub scouts in their hometown of Brunswick, dreamed up the idea of Tacos del Seoul back in February on a whim. Less than six months later, the pair were facing their first day in the business. “We drove up and down the East-
ern Prom like ten times, trying to figure out where to stop,” Dionne says. “It was unintentional marketing! By the time we finally parked, loads of people had come over out of curiosity.” The unlikely culinary pairing has already proved popular in places like Las Vegas and McAllen, Texas, earning the fusion label “KoMex cuisine.” “With a foodie community like Portland, it’s been an easy sell. Our classic Seoul Taco ($3.25 each) combines Korean beef with a locally produced corn tortilla, Asian slaw, sesame seeds, and homemade pico de gallo,” says Dionne, who grew up eating his mother’s traditional Korean cooking. These days, Mama Dionne even lends chef Doug Thompson with food prep. “I’ve brought my mom out of retirement to help us out. j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 5 5
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She makes things like the spring rolls and cucumber kimchi. You’ll occasionally even see her on the truck,” says Dionne (above).
T
acos del Seoul plans to spend the first season on the food truck circuit introducing Portland to KoMex cuisine and learning the tricks of the trade. But there are bigger ambitions on the horizon: “There’s no Korean BBQ in Portland, so we’d love to ultimately go into a restaurant. I don’t want my mom getting too relaxed in her retirement!”
big flavor, low profile When it is suggested that by opening a restaurant first and then a food truck, El Rodeo is working backwards, co-owner Ilse Fernandez, 27, says, “We were visiting family back in Mexico when we saw a cart selling street food. We thought it would be a great idea!” Fernandez and husband Juan Sanchez, 29, already own the relaxed El Rodeo dine-in located near the Maine Mall but found they weren’t getting enough public interest in this overlooked corner of South Portland. During the trip to southern Mexico, the pair made the decision to bring this delicious food directly to the people of Portland, and in May they established El Rodeo food truck as a regular fixture on Commercial Street, despite “[having] to wake up at 6 a.m. every morning to secure the spot.” El Rodeo has no real online presence, nor does it promote its “brand.” A passing glance at their food truck or Facebook page
From Left: Sarah Moore; Meaghan Maurice
Daily Lunch & Happy Hour Specials Fresh Guacamole • Live Latin Music • Functions Catering • Delivery • Kids Eat Free on Sundays
Such was her drive,
April Perry even talked her step-dad into moving from Arizona to work with her.
j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 5 7
Metropole could lead you to think this is just another generic Tex-Mex spot. Don’t be fooled. Their menu is small and traditionally prepared. Tacos are served with cilantro and wedges of fresh lime, rather than dollops of sour cream and cheese (three for $9). The steak and vegetables are cooked and seasoned to perfection in every dish. Smarlin German, 17, the charismatic senior from Scarborough High School taking customers orders on the truck, is a recent convert: “My mom talked to Isle and Juan to get me this job. I was never really interested in Mexican food before. Then I tried this and I was like…damn.”
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T
Meaghan Maurice
Custom art glass for any application.
First on the scene hese days, a trip to One Industrial Way or Thompson’s Point is incomplete without indulging your appetite at one of the numerous brightly colored food vendors parked there, so it’s hard to believe food trucks were illegal in this city until 2012. In Boston at the same time, where the food-truck scene was booming, three college kids from Maine wanted to see a slice of the action in their home state. Brothers Max and Jack Barber, 21 and 23, and friend Ben Burman, 23, from Cape Elizabeth, began lobbying the City of Portland to lift restrictions on food trucks, eventually succeeding in obtaining a permit to sell their gourmet burgers from a food truck. Back then, there were only eight licensed food trucks operating in the city. Four years later, Mainley Burgers has stood the test of time and now includes two trucks and an ice-cream-sandwich cart. “In summer we’re all about the truck, but come Labor Day it’s back to studying,” says younger brother Max Barber. “In the fall I’m heading back for my senior year at Babson College. All our staff are high school or college kids.” Don’t let their youth fool you; these guys have big plans: “We actually just signed the lease on a real brick-and-mortar restaurant,” Barber says, his enthusiasm palpable. “It’s going to open in Cambridge, Massachusetts, but it’s going to have a real Maine flavor. Our most popular burger is the The Mainah ($7.50, featuring crisp green apples, ground beef, and sharp cheddar). It’ll be a staple of the menu. Even the interior will have a Maine theme.” The owners of El Corazon are well known and well-loved by the 9-to-5 crowd that arrives in droves for their lunchtime fix of authentic Mexican fare. The truck
Several years working
serves as many as 200 hungry workers in one lunch shift. April Perry, 30, the chirpy business mind behind the El Corazon concept, had dreamed of her own food truck for as many as 10 years. The Los Angeles native moved to Maine with her husband in 2011 and saw the potential in Portland. Such was her drive, Perry even talked her step-dad to the East Coast. “I convinced my him to move all the way from Arizona to cook with me on the truck!” The man in question, Joseph Urtuzuastegui, hails from the Sonora region of Northern Mexico, and his background informs the traditional cuisine that El Corazon produces in huge volume every day for Portland’s hungry workers. El Corazon has changed little on its menu since opening, fittingly, on Cinco de
in video production left Jacob Perry itching to “embrace my Maine heritage and make something with my hands.” Maker’s Mug
Mayo in 2013. You’ll find the familiar Mexican favorites on offer: try Baja fish tacos ($3 each) or the tamale of the day, served in a steamed corn husk ($3.50). “There are now loads of great food trucks in town. El Corazon works because we’re consistent. People know our food and where to find us.” Coffee Culture In a city as obsessed with coffee as Portland, it’s a surprise it took this long for a cafe on wheels to hit the streets. Thankfully for caffeine-addicts, this summer two very different coffee trucks have made their debut.
Maker’s Mug rolled onto the scene in May, a tiny wooden trailer structure that owner/creator Jacob Perry, 27, describes as “inspired by the ice-fishing shacks you see in northern Maine.” Perry, born and bred in Bath, built the micro-cafe himself at The Open Bench Project studios, where he now works part-time. Several years working in video production left him itching to “Embrace my Maine heritage and make something with my hands. I’m from a family of makers, people who have made a living with their hands. I wanted to honor that.” Using beans from his father-in-law’s smallbatch roasting business, Crossroads Coffee j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 5 9
Metropole
Justin Dewalt’s journeys
led him to the Virgin Islands, South Africa, and Denmark, where he spotted his first coffee truck and the spark of an idea was ignited. The Sugarbird Coffee Truck
Beans, Perry and his tiny truck can often be found on weekdays roaming outer Washington Avenue, away from the typical foodtruck haunts on the peninsula. “After working a desk job, I know how appreciated little things like good coffee can be” he says.
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Meaghan Maurice
I
n the same month, The Sugarbird Coffee Truck opened its hatch to caffeine addicts on the peninsula. Hailing from Mattapoisett, Massachusetts, owner Justin Dewalt spent several years periodically working in restaurants around Portland before shaking off the confines of the rat race to set off on travels around the globe. His journeys led him to the Virgin Islands, South Africa, and Denmark, where he spotted his first coffee truck and the spark of an idea was ignited. Returning to Portland, Dewalt was determined to find a job he could really settle into and love (albeit one with wheels, in case the nomadic itch returns). “Sugarbird is fun and a little esoteric. I wanted to open a truck that featured local suppliers and the newest, most innovative developments in coffee.” A glance at the menu board reveals an array of surprises. “My Sugar Kelp iced coffee ($3.50) is made with hand-picked kelp seaweed from Bangs
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Photography: Justine Johnson
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Photography: Justine Johnson
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Island. It took some practice to get that recipe right!” Other exotic treats include Matcha tea-flavored ice-cream sandwiches and a latte spiked with organic Casco Bay butter ($4). “It’s full of nutrients, and the butter really cuts through the acidity of the coffee.” Never fear: If you’re just looking for a cappuccino, he promises to stick to the script.
F
new kid on the block ood cart owner and crème brûlée aficionado Charlie Compton didn’t let a little thing like being too young to drive stand in the way of his ambition. The then-15-year-old was first inspired to start his own mobile food business after attending the Off The Grid foodtruck festival in San Francisco a few years ago. Charlie honed his kitchen experience while on a year abroad in Europe as a high-school freshman, where he learned to make his favorite dessert, crème brûlée, in a restaurant in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. He’s also learned the ropes of the food business during an internship at Piccolo, working at Holy Donut, along with his current job in the back of house Beautiful Food For All O at Woodford Food & Beverage. Who said teenagers were lazy? Returning to Maine, Charlie racked his brains to find a way around the too-youngPO Box 628 • Waldoboro, to-drive problem, finally settling on a handbuilt cart hitched to the back of his bike. lauracabotcatering. You’ll find The Brûlée Bike on Sunday evenings at The Summer Film Series in Congress Square Park, serving his new menu of flavors, including chocolate sea salt and espresso crème brûlée ($6). Once you’ve made your choice, Charlie will caramelize the topping before your eyes–et voila, sophisticated French desserts from a sidewalk street cart. Now 16 and a junior in Casco Bay High School, Charlie is taking his driver’s-ed course. Does this mean a potential upgrade in the future? “It’s pretty hard work, dragging the cart up the steep hills in Portland, so I’m looking into my options.” Charlie is teenager-vague aboutBeautiful plans for the Food future, For A saying “I’d like to maybe have my own food truck one day,” but that’s understandable when your main focus is graduating from high school. n
laura ca C A T E R I
(207) 832-63
lauraca
C A T E R
(207) 832-
PO Box 628 • Waldob lauracabotcater lauracabotcate If we missed out your favorite food truck or you’d like to tell us about yours, email us at foodtrucks@portlandmonthly.com.
1. Tacos del Seoul 2. Urban Sugar 3. Brûlée Bike 4. CN Shawarma 5. BP’s Shuck Shack 6. Mainely Burgers 7. El Rodeo 8. Mami Street Food 9. Fishin’ Ships 10. Maker’s Mug 11. The Muthah Truckah 12. PB&ME 13. The Sugarbird Coffee Truck 14. Café Crêpe 15. The SaltBox Cafe 16. Love Kupcakes 17. High Roller Lobster Co. 18. Locally Sauced 19. Classic Sliders 20. El Corazon
1. sarah moore 2. courtesy urban sugar 3. courtesy photo 4. courtesy photo 5. meaghan maurice 6. courtesy mainely burgers 7. meaghan maurice 8. courtesy mami street food 9. meaghan maurice 10. courtesy makers mug 11. sean kruger 12. sarah moore 13. & 14. meaghan maurice 15. courtesy saltbox cafe 16 courtesy love cuppcakes 17. courtesy highrool lobster co. 18. courtesy locally sauced. 19. jamie wilson 20 meaghan maurice
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Dream
o b s e ssions
Boats
With on-deck Jacuzzis, baby-grand pianos, and a fleet of staff, the super-yachts visiting Maine this summer are the preserve of the super-rich.
Amelia connelly; inset: yachtcharterfleet
from staff & wire reports
Aspen Alternative Length: 164 feet Weight: 459 tons Top Speed: 24 knots Price: $22.9M in 2015 Price: Available for charter starting $185,000 per week. Special features: Deck Jacuzzi
j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 6 5
obsessions
Cangarda Length: 138 feet Weight: 125 tons Top Speed: 12 knots Features: The last luxury steam liner in the US. Renovation Cost: $12M
Portland Harbor teems with
activity in the summer
Cangarda’s hull lies abandoned in Boston Harbor in 1999, left, and restored to her formed glory in 2011, above in Islesboro.
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terranean, super yachts have become the ultimate status symbol of wealth and exclusivity. After all, even the most premium hotels require you to mix with the public. living in luxury DiMillo’s Marina is the place to head for a glimpse of how the other half lives. The bill for docking your 150-foot power cruiser in DiMillo’s prime waterfront berths for five days can top $3,750, which is really noth-
ing when you consider that the cost of filling your fuel tank is upwards of $60,000. That’s before you’ve even begun to pay your staff or buy champagne the trip. Send your private chef down to Browne Trading Co., a choice destination for your on-board provisions, to pick up a jar of Gold Label Osetra caviar ($1,149 for 250g), accompanied by a bottle of 1999 vintage Cristal ($2,600 a bottle). And be sure you get enough for all 12 guests. “We see a lot of private chefs come in and pick up
Silver Shalis
Rochade
Podium
Length: 178 feet Weight: 846 tons Top speed: 14 knots Price: $2.95M Features: Deck Jacuzzi, owned by NY real estate mogul and World Trade Center developer Larry Silverstein.
Length: 156 feet Weight: 499 tons Top Speed: 22 knots Fuel Capacity: 14,000 gallons Price: Sold for $38M in 2013 Features: Deck Jacuzzi
Length: 197 feet Weight: 1182 tons Top Speed: 15.5 knots Fuel Capacity: 39,625 gallons Features: Deck Jacuzzi. Helipad, dance floor.
n our seafaring state, it’s not unusual to witness exotic ships arriving on Maine’s shores, from gargantuan cruise liners to Atlantic Class 40 racing yachts to replica galleons. However, a certain breed of boat never fails to turn heads when it glides into port. Dubbed “gin palaces” in the early 20th century to describe the kind of ostentatious and luxurious pleasure crafts that were appearing in the marinas of the Medi-
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x630
Clockwise from top left: tom o’donnell; ultimate restorations; illustrations by sean kruger; amelia connelly; jill blackwood; superyachts.com; jill blackwood(3); courtesy ultimate restorations(2)
378 tons
Scout Length: 111 feet. Weight: 378 tons Top Speed: 15 knots Fuel capacity: 13,350 gallons Approx: $32,037 to fill tank
1 moose = 1,200lbs
You could drive from Portland Head Light to the Santa Monica Pier 6.7 times with the amount of gas that Scout uses motoring from Boston to Portland. Below: Scout visits Portland and stays at the DiMillo’s Marina.
X6.7
cases of wine for their clients. They’ll pick up $500 bottles of wine for lunch, no problem,” says Jasmine, the knowledgeable sales girl behind the counter. Luxury on loan iMillo’s Marina recently welcomed the playfully named Aspen Alternative to Portland’s waterfront, 164 feet of gleaming aluminium hull and teak decking. The luxury charter comes fully equipped with all the super yacht essentials: on-deck Jacuzzi, gym, kayaks and fishing gear, and a fleet of tenders–all yours for $56,000 a week. And that’s on the cheaper end of the scale. You can take Wheels, pride and joy of NASCAR team owner Rick Hendrick, for a spin for the princely sum of $200,00 per week. Hendrick himself sailed Wheels into Portland last year. Keep your eyes on the horizon for a return visit this summer.
Ultra Yachts In 2012, the 11th largest yacht in the world cruised along the Portland shipping channel, dwarfing all other pleasure boats in her wake. The Rising Sun, stretching an astounding 454 feet, with room for 16 guests and 45 crew members ready to meet their every whim, cost over $20 million to build. Originally owned by Larry Ellison, CEO of the Oracle Corporation, it was bought by music
Wheels
Big Eagle
Length: 164 feet Weight: 456 tons Top Speed: 19 knots Price: Available for charter starting $200,000 per week Features: owned by NASCAR team owner Rick Hendrick
Length: 172 feet Weight: 399 tons Top Speed: 15 knots Fuel Capacity: 27,590 gallons Price: Available to charter for $140,000/week plus expenses Features: Deck Jacuzzi, dive gear
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producer David Geffen in 2010. The founder of Asylum Record and Geffen Records, the magnate (who has an estimated net worth of $6 billion) has signed and mingled with The Eagles, Joni Mitchell, and Bob Dylan. That sounds like one wild boat party. It was even reported that the queen of talk shows, Oprah Winfrey, was a guest aboard The Rising Sun in 2013. If you prefer speed over size, the comparatively diminutive Diamond super yacht is a featherweight 105 tons of Italian-made, kevlar reinforced hull. Triple 2,600-horsepower and waterjet propulsion enable her to reach an eye-watering 49 knots of acceleration. Despite this, Yachts International describes Diamond as “a family-friendly gem.” Cangarda: last of her kind Resurrected in 2010 following several years in a watery grave at the bottom of Boston Harbor, six years of restoration, and $12 million dollars in repairs, Cangarda is now the last luxury steamboat in America, and the jewel of Maine’s seas. j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 6 7
Built in 1901, Cangarda was named for its owners Charles Canfield and his wife, Belle Gardner. Following an unfortunate indiscretion between Mr. Canfield and an unmarried female guest on her maiden voyage, Cangarda was subsequently sold to the Fulford family of Thousand Islands, New York, where she served as the perfect accessory to their 200,000 squarefoot-mansion. wo future British kings have received the royal treatment aboard Cangarda: Edward VIII, when he was a prince and before he was shipwrecked by Wallis Simpson, and George VI, also as a prince. (vividly portrayed by Colin Firth in the movie The King’s Speech.) During World War II, the yacht became badly damaged while on loan to the Royal Canadian Navy, who eventually returned Cangarda to the Fulfords with a compensatory check for $13,000, a fraction of the amount necessary to restore her. Unwilling to accept the burden of her costs, the Fulford family sold Cangarda in 1952. During the intervening years, the battered Cangarda bounced between owners, with
T
Diamond
Rising Sun
Length: 119 feet Weight: 105 tons Top speed: 49 knots Price: $16.75 M Features: Italian made. Reinforced Kevlar hull.
Length: 454 feet Weight: 846 tons Top speed: 26 knots Price: over $200 M to build Features: 11th largest yacht in the world
none able to raise the capital to carry out her extensive restoration work. In 1999, Cangarda’s gutted hull eventually sank to the bottom of Boston Harbor. Thankfully, tireless efforts by Elizabeth Meyer of J-Class Yacht Management and Captain Steve Cobb to raise the hull and locate a buyer were successful. In 2002, a prominent San Francisco Bay-area venture capitalist bought Cangarda’s remains for around $500,000 and shipped them from Massachusetts to Jeff Rutherford’s boat yard in Richmond Harbor, California, for a complete restoration. “It was a very unique project for my yard,
for anywhere in the world really,” said Jeff. Besides using laser scanning to create a new hull, one of the greatest challenges was integrating modern electronics with antique machinery, requiring the expert help of marine engineer Pete Jordan. “I had to learn all these new skills. That’s what made the project so fun. I loved it!” says Jeff. These days, Cangarda can frequently be seen sailing around Camden and her home port of Islesboro. She made a short stop in Portland in July for repairs. Jeff Rutherford, like a worried parent, came to her aid. “A boat like this will need constant attention,” he says. Baby, you’re worth it. n
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Conquering the Castle
TIQA Cafe takes The Castle in Deering Oaks by storm with pan-Mediterranean flair. B y Ro b e rt W itk ow ski
photo by sean kruger; inset: courtesy TIQA
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he fanciful stone Castle in Deering Oaks Park is being invaded by hungry marauding hordes this summer, after many years in the wilderness. Standing sentry by the pond in Portland’s crown jewel public park, TIQA Café houses seating for 20 indoors, with outdoor seating for over 80. Distractions such as bocce ball, horse shoes, beanbag toss, chess tables, and live music adorn The Castle’s new reign. The rejuvenation of this 1894 landmark is due to the joint efforts of the Friends of Deering Oaks and City Hall, who began soliciting proposals this year from local businesses keen to take over the space. Competition was stiff. The five finalists included Sinful Kitchen, Arabica, Miss Portland Diner, Black Cat Coffee, and TIQA. A well-developed pitch from TIQA owners Deen Haleem and Carol Mitchell secured the project. Park director Ethan
Hipple says the pan-Mediterreanean eatery impressed the panel with “its creative menu and outdoor dining concept.” Haleem and Mitchell’s vision has been to create “a yearround café that is warm and cozy that will attract visitors to the park.” However, converting such an iconic building has had its drawbacks. Construction restrictions prohibit the installation of hood vents that would be necessary for on-
site cooking, while the relative lack of kitchen space and amenities also limits the cafe’s production potential. Haleem found a way around this problem, thanks to the proximity of TIQA’s already well-established Commercial Street kitchen. Executive chef and partner Bo Burns prepares his popular pan-Mediterranean fare daily before trucking the food down to the tiny cafe. The food on offer in the cafe reflects TIQA’s new lunch menu: grilled beef kabobs slathered in tzatziki, colorful fattoush salads, and spicy gazpacho soup. The space has also been approved for a wine and beer license, so expect plenty of sun-soaked adults enjoying a cold beer in the outdoor area. In addition, patrons can start their day with freshly made treats from TIQA’s pastry chef, Rachel Ray, as well as house-made gelato and sorbet. They’ll also be serving Portland’s favorite fuel, Coffee By Design. j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 7 1
L o c a l F l av o r
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aleem knew that “to figure out how to make such a small location work well” and be true to the historic location, he needed TIQA-builder Bill Nason of PM Construction to lead the job. Originally designed by Frederick A. Tompson (1857-1919) and built in 1894 for $900 by volunteer laborers, The Castle is a nod to a simpler time of architectural ingenuity, making it an oasis of cool in summer and a warming shelter in winter. Its vaulted wood ceiling gives it an airy atmosphere, while the small, well-placed stained-glass windows allow light to filter in. Meanwhile, the granite and beadboard walls block the colder temperatures in winter and retain warmth from the large fireplace (now gas-fueled), creating a feel that emanates Victorian charm. “The Castle was for public use right from the beginning,” says Friends of Deering Oaks president Anne Pringle. “There’s been food service there for a long time.” The Castle originally served as an ice-skating warming hut, meeting place, and even ticket window for swan boats–yes, just like Boston Public Garden. The addition of a larg-
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er adjoining building in the 1950s relegated the elegant jewel box to mere public bathrooms and storage unit for 50 years. Its larger and more modern successor was, most recently, the site of The Barking Squirrel cafe from 1995 to 1998, until “a port-a-potty fire spread to the newer building and the decision was made to focus on restoring just the Castle,” says Pringle. In 2006, The Friends of Deering Oaks community organization raised $310,000 toward restoring the landmark to its former postcard-perfect elegance. “Everyone wanted the building open,” Pringle says. After failed attempts to secure an eatery, due to an arduous approval process, The Greater Portland Convention & Visitors Bureau opened the space as a welcome center from 2006 to 2012. “The vision was always to have a restaurant in Deering Oaks again, not just to serve people in the park, but to actually bring people to the park.” Haleem agrees the historic site is something special. “The Castle is so beautiful, the location and view are arguably the best in the city.” n
Heirloom Consignment Come see one of the largest furniture consignment stores in Southern Maine! 30 years experience in home furnishings Hours Tues-Sat 10-6 Sun 10-4
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Lobstering & Lighthouse Cruises
camden harbor cruise C
1-Hour lobstering & ligHtHouse tour • 1.5-Hour eco-tour 2- Hour sunset cruise • 3-Hour sunday Morning ligHtHouse cruise
C amDen h arbor ruises D eparting C amDen a boarD LiveLy LaDy
Learn about sea life as we haul our lobster trap • Touch tank See lighthouses, schooners, yachts, mansions & wildlife up close Comfortable, shaded seating • Happy Hour Cruises • Private charters available
book onLine:
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reserve by pHone 207.236.6672 or visit our tiCket booth at 2 public landing, caMden, Me 04843
TIQA cafe is open 7 a.m. until dusk.
A Lot of Italian (For Not So Much American!)
24 Years
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ecipes from Naples, Italy neration R 4th Ge Visit Underground Portland 151 Middle Street Order online or call ahead: (207) 774-8668 AnthonysItalianKitchen.com Voted “Best Cheap Eats” 3 Years in a Row
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Love Letter
to Portland
“From the moment of moor, we feel like in house.” By the crew of el GaleÓn
7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
r omance
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“So many histories like crew members... To go out to know the city, to enjoy the concerts of the Festival of the Old Port, to go out of holiday, even, some sailor found girlfriend, though for misfortune of both, it was a romance passenger. And as not, to eat lobster, a lot of. We were surrounded with places to spend it well and to a step of a very animated, and like that zone we spend it, so well, that alone we remember the name of the Irish pub close to the wharf and because we were happening every day, the Ri Rá. Also we enjoy a small visit guided to the factory of Be dog, where we prove different types of beer
and we learned a bit more on the processes of this thousand-year-old drink. “One of the best moments turned out to be an invitation that we receive to enjoy a party of the home team of baseball, “It Is Dog.” We could enjoy it from a theater box VIP of the stadium as authentic fans of this deep-rooted sport, for what the experience was a past certification. Neither we want to forget our neighbors of face, the boys of Mussel Island, who several days us put in the table a great diversity of fresh products, and whose owner was the whole personage. Definitively, we spend it very well in a city blessed to receive ourselves with the opened arms. An only sorrow, if it is that she was, was not to be able to remain any more time, but as my mother was saying to móself of small, he enjoys to the maximum the good thing because always it is little.” n See online for the original Spanish version they also sent to us. Some people might find this note better untranslated. Or not. In any case, we know the city of Portland would welcome the crew back any time. (If you are that girl, we’d like to hear your story.)
Sean Kruger inset: courtesy el galeon crew
e were delighted to welcome the 16th-century-galleon replica El Galeón to our wharves recently. As it turns out, the feeling is mutual. We received a touching testimonial from the ship’s crew, loosely interpreted by an online translation tool–with its own happy accidents: “From the moment of moor, we feel like in house. These were the exact words of Xavi Canals, the first official of the ship and one of the crewmen consulted to write these brief but sincere words. We, errant souls, are accustomed to moving for many cities, both big and small, and always, during a not superior time to 4 or 5 days. In Portland nevertheless, we were 12 days, and it, it gives for much. From the beginning we receive an excellent attention on the part of the organizers as of neighbors. First these giving us all the facilities to do ourselves with a new city for us and of considerable size. The second ones, treating itself as his own neighbors simultaneously that they were showing an incredible interest for our house.
j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 7 5
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c i ty beat
Serenade Longfellow
The rise and rise of Longfellow Square.
corey templeton
B An exultant crowd exits One Longfellow Square after a comedy show.
By Daniel Kan y
ecause Portland is a port, it is a tidal city. And what are tides, if not currents that ebb and flow? Over the years we’ve watched as Congress Street has gone boom and bust and back again. Art venues seem to blossom in herds before they become unheard. But new venues take seed and over time, despite the roughness of the rhythms, it is clear that Maine’s first city is a truly fertile ground. Because of this, we sometimes see emptied spaces not as shuttered failures but as fallow fields. And that is why, when I see the empty j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 7 7
city beat Boda hums with vitality on a busy summer night in Longfellow Square.
space of “The Frame Shop” on State Street, I see another foothold for upward ascent. While the neighborhood is anchored with some reliably fixed points, its open spaces have consistently made the area at the edge of the arts district hipper, friendlier, and better. A recent request for a re-zoning permit tells us the former shop may be transformed into a restaurant. Word on the grapevine? The Otto empire is looking to expand.
cious teenager of a town. It has long been an arts city and once it ascended the ranks of America’s gastronomical stars, it was clear there would never be any going back. Take a glance around town at the city’s perennial favorites, and you’ll see Portland’s success model is all about keeping it
simple and doing what you do better than anyone expects. As Longfellow himself once said, “The talent of success is nothing more than doing what you can do well and doing well whatever you do without thought of fame.” This is the logic behind the craft beer movement, the farm-to-table
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207-780-0227
100 Commercial Street
corey templeton
J
ust a few doors down, the paperedup windows of Petite Jacqueline will soon house the pizza chain’s sister venture, Ocho Burrito, currently operating out of a tiny carry-out space on Congress Street. It seems Longfellow Square has been selected as the new headquarters for this unstoppable food power-couple. On paper, trading a French restaurant for a burrito joint might seem a southward stumble, but I doubt anyone who has tried the deliriously delicious Ocho or Otto would agree. With tidal logic, the notion of “trendy” can imply a fleeting fancy, without rooted staying power. But Portland is not some capri-
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City Beat
Pai Men Miyake draws a young, hip crowd of hungry locals
movement, the Maine art scene, and favorite local fixed points like Beal’s (ice cream), DuckFat (fries), and Nosh (burgers). Take a Longfellow staple. Pai Men Miyake doesn’t pretend to make authentic Japanese-style ramen, which is artfully subtle and infinitely light. Instead, try their paitan ramen, unapologetically rich and indulgent. If you want a level field comparison, try their Brussels sprouts–every normal kid’s anathema, right? Deep-fried to a crispy perfection and then dressed with a flavor explosion led by fish sauce and mint, these Brussels sprouts transcend expectation. The square is anchored by Franklin Simmons’ heroically scaled Henry Wadsworth Longfellow Monument, unveiled in 1888. While seated in an ornate indoor armchair with lion-carved armrests, Maine’s most famous poet is depicted wearing an overcoat, a quirk that seems to invite Longfellow’s annual holiday adornments of scarves, wrapped presents, and so on.
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UP AND COMING “
Further along Congress Street, the Longfellow Square influence seems to be taking hold. David Levi, chef and owner of the celebrated eco eatery Vinland, has staked his claim to the space in 3 Deering Avenue in Bramhall Square, ready to transform this neglected corner of the West End into a mecca for foodies. Good news for workers in Peloton Labs and Maine Medical, who until now have had to traipse up Congress to indulge in gourmet delights. A departure from the stringently local-only, gluten -free approach adopted by Vinland, Rossobianco (meaning “Red White” in Italian) serves up traditional Northern Italian cuisine, inspired by Levi’s father’s heritage and prepared by hot shot head chef Scott London. This means olive oil, citrus, and carb-forward favorites such as pasta and risotto are back on the menu. “There’s a misconception that I only believe in eating local food. Vinland is my baby, it’s unique, but it’s liberating to do something different!” Try a selection of “cicchetti,” Italian-style small plates from regions such as Lombary and Veneto, paired with a glass from the extensive natural wine selection.
as OLS sits on the Arts District corner of Longfellow Square, its community-oriented artiness knits it to Portland’s deep vein of casually dressed and yet mindfully creative culture.
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s Longfellow Square in danger of becoming overrun with trendy pretenders? I wouldn’t bet on it. I don’t think the Treasure Chest, that wizened shop of naughtiness, or the dive-y and unpretentious Blackstones are going anywhere any-
time soon. I rather think the neighborhood is more like Longfellow himself, the old Bowdoin professor who not only gave us popular poems like the “Song of Hiawatha” and “The Midnight Ride of Paul Revere,” but who was also the first American to translate Dante’s Divine Comedy. The neighborhood itself seems to be reflecting the spirit of Longfellow’s savvy advice: “Build today, then strong and sure, With a firm and ample base; And ascending and secure. Shall tomorrow find its place.” n
corey templeton
T
he square’s literary flavor is quietly held intact by LFK, a bar that occupies the old Cunningham Books shop. Within, books and old typewriters abound among the dark wood spaces. True to local spirit, the craft beer choices are impressively deep, and the food surpasses expectations, whether standards like mac and cheese and burgers or hearty and creative vegetarian fare. Across Congress Street, the vast hole where Joe’s Smoke Shop used to be is rising toward its new life as an eight-story apartment building. This will only increase the happening bustle in and around the square. The 70-year-old Joe’s, moreover, is being resurrected in the new building as Joe’s Super Variety. Featuring several thriving design and antiques stores and a pair of hipster-styled coffee shops, the West End side of Congress Street just off Longfellow Square is flourishing as well. While the noted and popular restaurants like Local 188 (tapas and paella), Boda (contemporary Thai), King of the Roll (Japanese), Hot Suppa (hearty Southern cafe fare) comprise a major draw, the actively beating heart of the neighborhood is One Longfellow Square, a non-profit 225-seat performance venue that varies its offerings between acoustic music, jazz, film, dance, contemporary music, and comedy. Just
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Dive In!
No vacation is complete without a dip in the water. Luckily, you don’t need a super yacht to enjoy Maine’s waterways. Our guide to aquatic adventure will help you plunge into the best Maine summer yet. F r o m Sta ff & W ire R eports
(Para)sail Away f you spend a day on the busy shore of Old Orchard Beach, cast your eyes beyond the bright patchworks of beach towels and bathers and you may spot a trio of squealing passengers being hauled through the air beneath a giant parasail canopy emblazoned with 855-FLY-2SKY. That’s the trademark of Old Orchard Beach Parasailing, the exclusive provider of sky-high rides in OOB. At $80 for a tenminute ride, is this sky-high trip really worth the hype? “It’s only the best view in town!” says a guide. “You can see 40 miles in every direction. You can actually see the White Mountains on a clear day.” For those with a fear of heights, stay closer to the surface and take a spin on a Banana Boat for a more purse-friendly $20 per person.
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courtesy oob parasail
Old Orchard Beach Parasail and Ski, Saco, oobparasail.com, (855) FLY-2SKY
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D i s c o v e ry Family Operated Since 1970
36 Main Street South Freeport
Lunch Counter Open Daily 11:00-8:45
Enjoy our Fresh Seafood from our indoor dining room or our outside picnic tables! Fresh Lobster Rolls, Maine Shrimp, Clams, Scallops & Homemade Desserts
Lobster Pound Open Daily 7:00-8:45 Lobsters, Crabs & Clams unloaded fresh daily from our boats! Ice packs are available for your convenience.
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stand by me “When you’re on a paddle board you feel like you’re standing on the surface of the ocean. It’s a surreal sensation, it’s almost spiritual,” says SOPOSUP owner Rafael Adams, who’s shop in South Portland has an array of stand up paddle boards, or “SUPs,” for you to try. The enormous boards (10-12 feet long) allow you to paddle easily along waterways and present a unique vantage point to gaze at your surroundings. You can even catch a wave or practice SUP yoga from your board. “Paddle boarding is relatively easy, so it makes the water super accessible to everyone. You can get out on rivers, lakes, and the ocean at very little cost,” says Adams, who bought his first SUP in 2010 “when I accepted I couldn’t afford a boat.” Rent a board for $55 per day or take part in a group lesson for $25 per person. SOPOSUP, South Portland, soposup.com, 317-0425
K
ayaking and canoeing are two easy ways to get family members on the water together. Sebago Trails Paddling Co. owner Katelyn Allen attributes the sport’s enduring appeal to its accessibility and inclusiveness. “Kayaking and canoeing are really easy to get into. It’s very safe and you don’t need a lot of experience, so it gets people out on the water who maybe aren’t as confident.” It also stuns you with silence and the beauty of your surroundings. Based on the shores of Sebago Lake, the company rents out their fleet of boats at $40 per day for a kayak and $50 for a canoe. They also offer kids kayaks, fishing gear, and even a doggie life jacket, so no family member need be left behind. “For a lot of people it’s a nostalgic trip. It reminds us of when we were growing up,” says Allen. Create your own memories. Sebago Trails Paddling Co., 4 Whites Bridge Rd, Windham, sebagotrails.com, 894-4696 Surf Camp at Scarborough Beach provides lessons and fun for kids and adults. surfcampme.com
Open Daily From 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
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Two restaurants side by side OGUNQUIT, MAINE in Perkins Cove,
OgunquiT, MainE
Maine BayCycle Participants reach up into triangle pose during a SUP yoga session at Willard Beach in South Portland.
Surf’S UP While Maine may not boast the rolling, glassy barrel waves of California or Hawaii, we still have a few spots along the coast that will satisfy your need to rip. “We’ve had buoys recording swells of over 20-feet in winter! But summer surfing in Maine tends to be very calm–it’s the perfect place to learn,” says Andy McDermott of Black Point Surf Shop in Scarborough. With the beach breaks of Higgins, Scarborough, and Old Orchard in near convergence, beginners and skilled surfers alike can chase the perfect wave. “The surf shop is like a hub for all kinds of people and their stories,” says Andy. His main advice for beginners? “Just give it a try. You can only be given so much instruction with surfing. A lot of it is just spending time in the ocean.” Rent a variety of different boards for $15 for half a day or get a 90-minute lesson starting at $80, and be sure to check the surf report before you head out.
from top: Meaghan Maurice; dustin turin
Black Point Surf Shop, Scarborough, blackpointsurfshop.com, 939-6016
Speed machines If you happen to prefer horsepower to manpower on the water, a jet-ski trip will provide the adrenaline fix you crave. Sure, you may be the bane of all other ocean users, but with top speeds of 55 mph you’ll be moving too fast to care. Located in Wells Harbor, Ocean Jet Ski Rental keeps eight jet skis ready and waiting on the water, yours to rent for $90 an hour. “The oldest client ever to visit us was 93 years old. She came two years ago with her family,
Bring your favorite local brews an come aboard for a 90-minute, pedal-powered cruise of the Portland waterfront!
New England’s Only Human Powered Party Boat Trips offered at 11:00am, 1:00pm, 3:00pm, 5:00pm, and 7:00pm from Bell Bouy Park, 72 Commercial Street
Reserve your seats online or call:
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207.775.0727 www.oddyseywhalewatch.com A MAINE WHALE WATCHING ADVENTURE AWAITS YOU ABOARD THE ODYSSEY!
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8 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
All aboard Whether you’re a certified sea captain or a complete beginner, you too can be skipper for the day without purchasing your own multimillion-dollar yacht. From his spot in Southwest Harbor, Chuck Watson of Mansell Boat Rental has been offering the chance to explore the Mount Desert coastline and the breathtaking beauty of the Somes Sound fjard for over 43 years. Put the wind in your sails and charter a 19-foot Rhodes sailboat for $295 per day. Or, if you prefer, sit back and relax in a rented 21foot Boston Whaler motorboat for $100 more. Watson also offers lessons for beginners on the ways of the water (Sailing lessons $295/2-3 hours). “It’s an odd business,” he says. “You take people who don’t know what they’re doing and turn them loose on the ocean.” Thankfully, you’ll be in expert company. Mansell Boat Rental, Mt. Desert Island, mansellboatrentals.com, 244-5625 n
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h u n gry eye
Oyster Empire With Spat, Rebecca Charles returns to Kennebunk after nearly 20 years spent showing New Yorkers what a real Maine lobster roll is all about.
Courtesy photos
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ebecca Charles, chef/owner of the wildly successful Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan since 1997, stands in sweatshirt and sneakers in the middle of a vast, empty, cathedral-ceilinged room on Western Avenue in Kennebunk. The floors are wide planks, covered in dusty footprints. Overhead, garish, wacky chandeliers hang forlornly. The walls, all of them, and the ceiling, are painted a grim chalkboard black. “Isn’t it awful?” she asks. Her smile is huge. “You can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.” In three days, the renovation team will descend to transform the cavernous room into a bustling seasonal restaurant and, downstairs, into the pubby Spat Oyster Cellar. “Spat is a ‘baby’ oyster,” she explains. This restaurant, which has upstairs/ downstairs dining areas, was most recently a
By Claire Z. Cramer
short-lived enterprise called Table intended for “cooking classes, pop-up dinners, mixology classes, [and] wine tastings,” according to its promotional literature. When Table folded, Charles pounced and bought the building and the little “bakehouse” cottage
on the same property. Before Table, 27 Western Avenue housed the restaurant Abbondante, and before that Grissini (pictured next page), an Italian restaurant remembered affectionately by all of us who ever dined there. “Grissini was a great place to have dinner–it was fun to be there,” says Charles. She wants to bring back that feeling. Ironically, although the premises are now gutted, two of Grissini’s most memorable features remain: The big stone fireplace in the dining room and an impossibly long, lovely pine harvest table that Grissini used for bounteous baskets of bouquets, bread, and cutting boards. When you came for dinner, the flickering fire and display of peasant breads seductively whispered Under the Tuscan Sun. “Spat Oyster Cellar’s menu will be very j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 8 9
hungry eye
Village Hot Spot
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unch hour at Pearl Oyster Bar in New York’s Greenwich Village is jumping on a weekday. A tiny storefront on Cornelia Street, Pearl has plate-glass windows overlooking the lovely block of gracious town houses. Mario Batali’s very first restaurant, Po, is across the street. Batali has called Pearl his “favorite lunch spot on the planet.” Ruth Reichl and writer Calvin Trillin, who is also a neighbor, are regulars. Trillin wrote the foreword for Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie (with Deborah DiClementi), published by Harper Collins in 2003; it’s scheduled to be reissued by William Morrow next year. Pearl’s bar takes up the first room; tables for two and four fill a tiny adjacent dining room, which is cozy with brick walls, sage colored wainscoting, and framed prints of shellfish on the walls. Jacob, the enchanting host, delivers us to a perfect deuce with a view. We’re surrounded by a pilsner-sipping mob of conviviality, and, within a few minutes, served cold French rose and Blue Point oysters from Long Island. They’re quite unlike mild Damariscottas, but they’re exceptionally meaty and tasty with the delicate shallot mignonette. Oysters are followed by a six-inch cornmeal johnnycake topped with a tangle of lightly smoked salmon and garnished with a dab of crème fraiche and snipped chives–utter heaven. The recipe is in Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie. Later, in Kennebunk, Rebecca tells us it’s her “homage to my grandmother” (pictured above). We conclude lunch with a pan-fried softshell crab that sits on a platter of sugar snap peas in lemon butter, scattered with toasted almond slivers. The crab is dabbed with what we decide is an exotic aioli, bright with minced red onion and capers. Weeks later, Rebecca Charles laughs about this. “That’s our house tartar sauce. We make it with Hellman’s mayonnaise. Tartar sauce is not supposed to be aioli!” The day we visited Pearl Oyster Bar, the market price of the Maine lobster roll–a gorgeous bounty of lobster meat heaped into a toasted bun with skinny fries on the side–is $30. Thirty bucks! “Hey, our Maine lobster travels a lot farther than yours do,” says Charles. “And we cook them and break them down right here–we don’t just buy the picked meat.” Which is why they’re so good, and why almost every table has at least one lobster roll on it.
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similar to Pearl Oyster Bar,” says Rebecca (pictured right). She plans to open it this month. The larger restaurant upstairs, tentatively named Pearl North, will offer non-seafood items as well and opens this fall (bottom right). “I have a brasserie template” in mind for the big restaurant. “I actually don’t like to work with interior designers too much, because that’s the fun part. I’m going with classic French bistro Thonet bentwood chairs, but padded. And my menu–you’ll see French elements, but it’s American food.” Downstairs in the low-ceilinged snug that will become Spat Oyster Cellar, visitors are drawn to the long carrara marble bar and the small fireplace even before the restoration has begun. It will seat “approximately 35 at the bar and on the floor” and will be open year-round. It feels like just the intimate spot to stop for oysters and ale in a snowstorm. KENNEBUNK CONNECTION Rebecca Charles’s family began coming from Brooklyn to summer in Kennebunk nearly 100 years ago. It’s the late Rebecca “Pearle” Stein Goldsmith (left inset), her namesake maternal grandmother who so loved life and Kennebunk summers, who seems to be Charles’s muse and inspiration. In her 2003 memoir/cookbook, Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie, Charles writes, “Maine will always be home because of our memories…My grandparents [Pearle and Goldie Goldsmith] first drove their shiny Packard touring car through Kennebunk in very early August 1920. As their car motored around Beach Avenue…they would have seen some of the same beautiful old stone cottages, shingled saltboxes, and Victorians lining the road across from the water that I now pass.”
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oldsmith family summer-vacation tradition meant lodging at the Forest Hill House and Cottages on Western Avenue. Since the 1880s, and well into the 1940s, Forest Hill House was known as the Jewish guest house and was the only hotel in the yankee Kennebunks that accepted Jews as guests. Today, Forest Hill House is the White Barn Inn. In the early 1980s, Rebecca Charles was hired as a young cook by the White Barn’s then-owner, Jack Nahill, to come run
the kitchen and make the food more exciting. “First I took all the microwaves down to the basement,” says Charles. “I completely changed the menu. They had packets of Knorr dried sauces! Their idea of an elegant dish was canned artichoke hearts with Knorr hollandaise sauce!” Her stint as chef lasted just the one season. “Jack hired me to completely change the menu, and I did, so he fired me.” She laughs, with a carefree shrug. Restaurants are a crazy business.
courtesy photos
A PRO IN HER ELEMENT Charles, a youthful and energetic 62, earned her chops in restaurant kitchens in Kennebunk in the early 1980s, including at the Whistling Oyster and Café 74, which she ran, and in New York in the late ’80s and ’90s at many spots including Anne Rozenzweig’s Arcadia, and then at Cascabel. She opened Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village in the summer of 1997. “It really was the first place in the city to serve lobster rolls and chowder” and other New England classic summer food. “The knock-offs didn’t take long. Mary’s Fish Camp [also in the Village] was first, and now they’re everywhere.” She ponders the nature of New York food trends. “The lobster roll, the porchetta sandwich, and David Chang’s pork bun–everyone knows these
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H u n g ry e y e upscale sandwich-type foods now. They’re everywhere [in New York City], but they weren’t anywhere until the first one.” film-major dropout from the State University of New York at Purchase (“I wasn’t really good at school”), Charles never attended culinary school. “Not too many of us did back then, really.” She remarks that many of today’s young cooks think being a chef means culinary school, working for a big shot chef, becoming a big shot chef, and getting a TV show. “I train my cooks,” she says. “I train their training out of them. I don’t think technique and consistency are things many of them are interested in.” I remark that her host and waiters at Pearl in New York are remarkably hospitable. “I want my waiters to have finedining experience—but they’re sick of it—so they still know their stuff.” And while she’s in Kennebunk getting Spat Oyster Cellar open, where does Charles eat? “I really like the fish sandwich called ‘A Fish Called Wanda’ at Allison’s. If I want clams, I’ll go to the Clam Shack on the bridge.”n
A
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Full Take-Out Menu • Grilled & Fried Seafood Lobster Rolls • Soups • Salads • Entrees Fresh Lobsters, Steamers, Mussels ~ Live or cooked to order Great Selection of Wines and Beer Take-out or eat in our scenic ocean-view picnic area Open Daily for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner from 7AM www.poollobster.com Phone orders welcome Lobsters packed & shipped overnight nationwide
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Grilled & Fried Seafood Lobster Rolls
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Fresh Lobsters, Steamers, Mussels ~Live or cooked to order
3 Lester B. Orcutt Blvd. • Biddeford Pool • 207-284-5000
Great Selection of Wines and Beer Take-Out or eat in our scenic ocean-view picnic area Open Daily from 11:30am Lunch & Dinner
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Huge selection of wines for everyone’s taste with over 1,000 labels. Home brewing supplies for all your brewing needs.
Tully’s carries over 750 beers with the most extensive selection of craft, speciality and domestic beers in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont.
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y a w a t s a C Island t n e K on
Imagine a summer spent among seabirds and scientists on a tiny island in the Atlantic.
S
tart by driving six hours up the coast of Maine, crossing over the border into Canada. Catch a ferry from Blacks Harbor to Grand Manan Island. Once there, drive across the island, passing at least five churches, until you get to Seal Cove. Hop onto a lobster boat for a choppy hour-long ride through the dense fog. Drop anchor, jump into a tiny dinghy, and ride it to shore. Finally, trudge through knee-deep mud for twenty minutes before arriving at the actual ‘dock,’ since it’s low tide and the boat can’t make it all the way in. Almost a full day after setting out, you’ve arrived. Located in the Bay of Fundy, Kent Island is less than two miles long, with Nova Sco-
Story & photos By Emily Weyrauch
tia visible to the east on a rare clear day– the island is wrapped in heavy fog one in three days of the summer. I arrive on Kent’s shores with 12 other students, a duffel bag full of rain gear, and a stack of poetry books, for two months of research and writing at The Bowdoin Scientific Station. into the wild Every day, I hike the rough path past overgrown grassy fields where Savannah sparrows build their nests. Through a lush forest and ferns tangled by morning dewy spider webs, I wend my way to the rocky shore of the North End. Here I sit and write, scribbling down dis-
jointed lines of poetry in my waterproof notebook and sketching watercolor landscapes. From my spot on the North End I spy Hay Island, smaller and more overgrown, accessible only at the lowest tides by scrambling over slippery rocks covered with seaweed. Spilling time, I watch the tide ebb and flow, exposing rocks that connect Kent to Hay, then covering them again. The ocean is a heartbeat, picking up gulps of water along the shore and releasing them, punctuated by the squawking of herring gulls. The island is loud with sounds of the Earth; the once-familiar hum of human life–honking cars and whirring machines–are conspicuously absent. In many
Bowdoin student Emily Weyrauch isolates the extraordinary during her sophomore summer on Kent Island, a stone’s throw over the border into Canada. An important ecological research site, Kent Island houses visiting students and scientists in stark surroundings. Emily shares her science and solitude on this unique isle. j u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 6 9 5
Out there ways Kent Island is surreal in its detachment from the real world. For one thing, the only mammals are bats and muskrats. Instead, Leach’s Storm-petrels populate the soil, living in monogamous pairs in burrows they build in mossy wooded areas.
even during the summer, and we frequently wear more than five layers of clothing at a time. Showering happens rarely, as it’s complicated by an ordeal involving a solar water heater, a bucket, some smaller yogurt con-
tainers, biodegradable soap, and a private corner of an old shack by the outhouses. Summer deepens, and our motley crew of students and Canadian researchers who arrived as strangers solidifies into
T
hese birds live only on offshore islands in the Atlantic and Pacific where large land mammal predators are nowhere to be found. Here on Kent, the petrels are the study species of a ongoing 62year project led by scientists and student researchers who make the long pilgrimage every summer to collect data on the behavior of these unique birds. Island Life Living conditions in the research station startle in their simplicity: wooden dwellings with one cold-water sink and two outhouses near the main kitchen and lab area. Electricity is only available by charging batteries daily from the solar panel found at head of the main trail. We have what we need. If we don’t, we get creative. The island is cold
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a makeshift family. Nighttime brings everyone together in their pajamas and layers of sweaters to read old books from the island’s well-stocked bookshelf or play a guitar and sing familiar songs. Stirred by the silence, we stand in the kitchen baking bread past midnight, listening to whatever radio station we can pick up. We are connected by our intimacy with nature, our shared detachment from the real world, and a love of the strange beauty of it all. n
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Everyday Sommellier
Wine & Grill
Thai,Vietnamese, Japanese & Korean Cuisine Barbecues aren’t all about beer. Our sommelier and cellar master offers tips on searching the wine aisles. By Ralph H e r som
staff images
S
ummertime means sweltering days; languid, golden evenings; and, of course, barbecues. While the go-to choice for summer cookouts is inevitably a cooler full of cold beers, why not do your grilling skills justice by pairing perfectly cooked meat and summery salads with our wine recommendations below? With grapes meticulously chosen from the best locations in California, J Vineyards Pinot Gris ($16.99) offers an alluring bouquet of lemongrass, kaffir lime, and Asian pear, plus tropical notes of pineapple and jasmine flowers. The complex, medium-bodied mouthfeel of this unoaked wine finishes dry, with bright, mouthwatering acidity and distinct minerality. This wine goes with a multitude of food pairings: think grilled salmon with a pineapple salsa, spicy gazpacho, or barbecued pulled pork for the ultimate marriage of summer flavors. For those who prefer red, the Pascal Granger Beaujolais Villages Le Fetrau
($15.99) is an excellent choice. The Pascal Granger domaine in France has existed for more than two centuries–since the time of Napoleon–and remains firmly a family-owned business. Made from 100-percent Gamay, this medium-bodied red is an excellent alternative to Pinot Noir and lends itself nicely to a slight chill for summer quaffing. A perfect red for the grill, it really shines when paired with smoky barbecued chicken. Finally, from the Patagonia region, located at the southern end of Argentina, comes this refined Malbec from Humberto Canale Estate ($12.99). Thanks to some time spent in oak, this wine boasts a full-bodied and complex bouquet–with notes of red berries, eucalyptus, and black pepper–that begs to be paired with grilled steak. n Ralph Hersom is the former wine director at Le Cirque and cellar master at Windows on the World in New York. He is the new Category Manager of wine, beer, and spirits for Hannaford Supermarkets.
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H
ow might one traverse to the other side of a language barrier? Without realizing it, you possess more languages than you are conscious of. Start reading French and you may get a sense of déjà vu. Like currency, over time words have been exchanged, borrowed, and stolen between nations. Yesterday’s jargon becomes today’s word du jour. Bear this in mind and comprehending French is easy, like a rendezvous with an old friend. Study the words with patience, speak with abandon. Come as you are, in denim even. Adopt a foreign tongue with panache, and a certain je ne sais quoi. The absence of accents on English words gives no clue to their Gallic past. But rest assured, when you speak of seduction, suffering, or success, you speak in French. Mastering languages presents a challenge, to be sure, but why not take the plunge? Join the multitudes of millions of communicative personages and realize you have arrived in an international community of linguists. There are over 80,000 French words borrowed by the English language, without realizing you are devouring them daily, like madeleines, or macarons, baba au rhum, or béchamel sauce. Consider your innate Frenchness while at a matinee or masquerade ball, or while getting a massage or reading a menu. Just try and master the culinary arts without using French. Or the art world, for that matter. Impossible! To express oneself not a student of French defies reason. The veritable truth, by the way: all italicized words in this article–over one-third–are of French derivation, much like Mainers, many of whom share French ancestry. n
207-967-3331
thecolonyhotel.com
140 Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport, ME
Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains.’ J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 0 1
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Dining Guide
Barnacle Billy’s, known for luxury lobster, steamed clams, large lusty drinks, barbecued chicken, homemade clam chowder & of course, the lobster roll & lobster stew. Features extensive indoor & sundeck seating where guests can enjoy both the beauty of the harbor & the ocean beyond. Perkins Cove, Ogunquit, 646-5575, barnbilly.com
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l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS
Bayside American Café (formerly Bintliff’s) has been owned and run by Joe & Diane Catoggio since 2003. Their craveable menu includes simple to decadently delicious items like house-made smoked salmon, corned beef hash, crab cakes, sandwiches, salads, Benedicts, and more. Come enjoy the food and drinks, and discover why customers love Bayside American Café. Breakfast, brunch, and lunch are served daily starting at 7am. 774-0005 . 98 Portland St., Portland, baysideamericancafe.com. Bueno Loco offers a unique Mexican experience in Falmouth. We use only the freshest ingredients and make the best house-infused margaritas! Open daily for lunch and dinner. Happy hour 4-6 pm. Live music Thursdays 6-9 pm. Kids’ menu. Dine in or take out. Plenty of free parking! View our full menu at buenoloco.net. 240 U.S. Rt. 1, Falmouth, 619-7057. Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511. Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days, 11:30am-1am. Kitchen closes at 10pm. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com Crooners & Cocktails Dine in style surrounded by the sounds of Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin at Portland’s only supper club throwback. Enjoy a high energy atmosphere with traditional American cuisine, classic cocktails, and great music celebrating a classic era. We are open 6 days a week for dinner Tues.Sat. 4pm-1am and Sunday brunch 10am-4pm. 90 Exchange St., Portland. 536-0469, croonersandcocktails.com
1 2 ,0 00 S Q U A R E F E E T O F A M A Z I N G F I N D S ROUTE 9, KENNEBUNK, LOWER VILL AGE O P E N 7 D AY S 10 -5 | 207.967.0626
1 0 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
DiMillo’s Now’s the time to enjoy everything DiMillo’s has to offer: fabulous dishes prepared by Head Chef, Melissa Bouchard, voted one of Maine’s Chef’s of the Year, plus our lobster and seafood specials, our delicious steaks and Italian dinners and outside dining topside and portside. Open every day at 11AM, Commercial St., Old Port. 772-2216. Always FREE PARKING while aboard. El Rodeo, an incredibly authentic Mexican Restaurant and Bar, is locally-owned and
Restaurant Review
Spirited Awakening A schooner is reborn as a floating bar & trendy bistro.
staff photos
W
hen you cross the Kennebunk River bridge, look beyond the Clam Shack and down to the waterfront. You’ll spy The Spirit of Massachusetts made fast to her dock, her tall masts lit to surprise the night sky. We’re dining onboard the schooner tonight, so step lively. Dwight Raymond’s dream to launch this vessel as The Spirit restaurant has been fully realized. Treasured as the last vessel ever built at Charlestown Naval Shipyard (in 1984), she’s plied the seas from the Caribbean to Africa and Canada, a reported halfJ u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 0 3
Restaurant Review
Dining Guide
family-operated at their convenient South Portland location. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Tableside guacamole, sizzling fajitas, delicious margaritas, and live Latin music are to be enjoyed. See Facebook for daily specials. 147 Western Ave., South Portland, 773-8851 Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the middle of the Old Port. The perfect spot for meetings, special occasions, and a cocktail. Ingredients from Maine’s waters and farms: jumbo scallops, natural, sustainable pork, beef, fish, and shellfish, and Maine lobster. Home to the annual Ice Bar, Eve’s garden is perfect for outdoor dining in season. Happy Hour Mon. Fri.; free valet parking. Lunch 11:30am-2pm, Dinner 5-9:30 pm. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com
es, $16) and Pan Seared Scallops (warm spinach salad with bacon vinaigrette, $12). A nice touch is an ear of corn on the cob, $4, to remind us of life in the rough. And, of course, king lobster, several ways. million miles before she came to be cradled in her new berth. Piped aboard, we were seated beside the ship’s wheel, where we could see all the attractions reflected in the river: Arundel Wharf Restaurant, Davids K’port, Federal Jacks. There used to be a celebrated restaurant called Windows on the Water on this river. This is water on the windows. Time for champagne! (Though our animated and helpful server has never been briefed that Veuve Cliquot is in honor of the Widow Cliquot, 1777-1866, the visionary who launched a champagne empire that’s well into its second century. Everybody has to learn the ropes.) We were glad to see one of our favorites was included on this very accessible wine list. The menu adventurously mixes the global and local, conjuring the schooner’s world travel. The plates are made “from fallen palm leaves, from India.” We start with the tasty tomato and watermelon salad (heirloom tomatoes, watermelon, goat cheese, mint, and ginger vinaigrette, $6) and Caesar salad (sublime white anchovies, $9), then tear into the small-plate sized Mackerel Crostini (a special tonight, featuring smoked mackerel), Cured Meat Plate (ham, salami, sausag1 0 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
The Floating Opera The 125-foot Spirit of Massachusetts is not looking back at her earlier life as a global ambassador for her namesake state. This lady is a bit mysterious (multiple phone calls went unanswered or unreturned before we just decided to show up and were glad we did) early in her new identity as a restaurant. But if you hit the ramp at the right time, the bar glows and the boat is gorgeous–a trip around the world without ever leaving the dock. Our server’s parting shot: “Are you going to have some fun or are you going home?” Our reply: “We didn’t know that was mutually exclusive!” This is one yare party. (Yar being the second spelling, Admiral.) n The Spirit, 4 Western Ave. Kennebunk, ME. Daily, 11am-10pm. No reservations, but your table is now ready in the newly opened dining room (below).
Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is upscale Asian with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese–or try our hibachi tables. Our private party room accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items and enjoy our entertaining chefs preparing your meal in front of you. Family friendly; open Mon.Thurs. 11:30am-10pm, Fri. to 11pm, Sat. 1pm-11:00pm, Sun. 11:30am-9:30pm. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. Tue.-Sat. starting at 5pm. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12pm-10pm. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill are owned & managed by Kate & Chef Peter Morency. Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. Open year-round. 77 Pier Rd., Kennebunkport, 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com * Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill An upscale sports bar serving creative pub food in a fun and comfortable atmosphere. Known for some of Portland’s best casual food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Conveniently located in Portland’s Historic Old Port District. 774-6044, rivalriesmaine.com *reservations recommended
Open 11am to 10pm Everyday (May–October) www.spiritofmassachusettsrestaurant.com The Spirit of Massachusetts is a 125-foot schooner built right here in New England at the Charlestown Naval Shipyard. Her launch in 1984 was celebrated in Boston Harbor with a tall ship festival that welcomed over 80 tall ships from all over the world. After her launch she served as a goodwill ambassador for the Commonwealth of Massachusetts while sailing the globe as an educational vessel. In 2014 The Spirit of Massachusetts was restored and brought to her new home in Kennebunk, ME.
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House of the Month Colin W. Sargent
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Rockefeller
Centered
property photos as reported by zillow online.
Querencia: a Spanish concept of dearness in a place. Seventy-one Foreside Road is a magic spot where noted families find their real selves, at peace and at home. Part I. An obsession We Share isibility is low at Westchester Airport, 30 miles north of Manhattan. A lone pilot at the controls of a single-engine Piper Meridian PA-46 turboprop climbs through a driving rain into a deadly layer of fog. He will never see the other side. A very powerful force was attracting Dr. Richard Rockefeller away from New York and toward something that Friday morning, June 13, 2014. He was flying to us. He was fighting
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to make it home, the way we all do. No matter how high or low our station, Maine is a shared dream.
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Few Mainers’ obituaries are covered by The New York Times. Dr. Rockefeller, 65, of 71 Foreside Road, Falmouth, Maine, tragically made this short list, not just because he was the son of David Rockefeller Sr. (according to Forbes, worth $3B) and the great grandson of John D. Rockefeller, a cofounder of Standard Oil Co. (later Mobil) in 1870, but also because he was a celebrated and much loved physician, teacher, philanthropist, conservationist, and sometime ballroom dancer who donated not just his J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 0 7
own the moment A day like no other. A place that’s made for memory-making.
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Authentically Maine. INQUIRIES 207-789-2000 | VISITPOINTLOOKOUT.COM
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Longitude -69° 59’ 32” 1 0 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
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property photos as reported by zillow online.
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money but his time to make the world beyond these stone gates a better place. Richard left his beloved sanctuary on June 12, 2014. He headed from the Portland Jetport to his father’s 99th birthday party at “Kykuit.” John D. Rockefeller’s riverside estate Kykuit translates roughly to “Lookout” in Dutch. Built in 1913, it commands 250 acres along the Hudson River. Familiar with the airport from multiple visits, Richard landed at Westchester at 3:41 p.m. The New York Daily News would write, “Though several other flights were cancelled due to the rain, fog and poor visibility, veteran pilot Rockefeller opted to take off [alone, the next morning] at 8:08 a.m. from Runway 16–and quickly dropped off the radar, authorities said. The crash happened so quickly that Rockefeller never had time for a mayday call…A piece of the doomed plane’s wing dangled from a sheared pine tree as police in Purchase, New York, awaited the arrival National Transportation Safety Board investigators.” Richard was barely half a mile from where he’d taken off and still 288 miles from home.
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hich leaves the rest of us mourning him. His death was a crushing loss for Maine and the world. This global hero was a local hero, often a harder honor to maintain. While his father was meeting people like Nelson Mandela, Richard, a Harvard graduate with a degree from Harvard Medical School, worked here in the everyday world in Maine as a family physician, operating his office in Greater Portland from 1982 to 2000 and teaching at Maine Medical Center. From 1989 to 2010, he served as chairman of the advisory board of Doctors Without Borders. More recently, he was in hot pursuit of finding ways to identify and ease the pain of veterans stricken by posttraumatic stress disorder.
Fast-forward to 2016. Seventy-one Foreside Road has been listed for $7.3 million via 71 Foreside LLC. The “Rockefeller Estate,” as its listing sheet identifies this vast swath, encompasses 31 acres in Falmouth Foreside, with 1,300 feet of shorefront caressed by Casco Bay.
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Part II Location, Location, Location Heading north from Portland along Route 88, a heron’s glide from Portland Country Club, we arrive at 71 Foreside Road, penetrate its border through a set of flanking stone gateposts, and follow a curved drive past a guest house to the central destination sheltered by trees at the center of the estate. Beyond the house is the deep emerald slope to sapphire Mussel Cove. You feel drawn to the staggering views of Clapboard Island. How could a property this grand escape so much attention? Did anyone imagine there were these endless shore acres with a single price-tag still available in 2016? Not so conservatively speaking, it’s “the most exciting property to come to the market in years!” according to listing agent Steve Morrison’s online description of the property: “The Falmouth Foreside Rockefeller estate encompasses 31 acres of classic Maine landscaping, with mature trees, rolling fields, and 1,300 +/- feet of shore on Casco Bay.” Conservationally speaking, the situation is somewhat more complex. Years ago, Stephen King called Portland Magazine’s office about a house we’d written 1 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Who, What, When Long and quietly contemporary, the house (which has been pleasingly modified several times) was created in 1953 for the Pew Family of Philadelphia, founders of Sun Oil Co., a.k.a. Sunoco. From the moment it took shape, the wood-clad, suavely landscaped main structure was admired by the lucky few who could see it through the dense forest, or even knew it existed. The home was drafted by “renowned Boston architects Ames Child & Graves who were prominent in Beacon Hill architecture,” according to 71foreside.com, the web site Morrison has
Doctor Without Borders According to the New York Times, “Doctors Without Borders issued a statement on [Dr. Richard Rockefeller’s] death. Dr. Deane Marchbein, president of the United States division of Doctors Without Borders, said the group was ‘devastated.’ “‘Richard gave so much of his life to support Doctors Without Borders,’ Dr. Marchbein said in the statement. ‘He made so many vital contributions that have helped Doctors Without Borders provide independent medical humanitarian assistance to millions of patients in over 70 countries.’”
created for the estate.
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o between the Rockefellers (Mobil) and Pews (Sunoco), this property is a gas. And I’m not going to bother to ask anyone’s forgiveness here. The first stunning ‘tell’ you notice that reveals über advantages is the granite cornerstone at the extreme eastern end of the mansion with the name of the architects engraved on it with the year of design. Note to HGTV watchers: You won’t see this every day. Steve Morrison is our guide. He’s familiar with the property and even mentions that years ago he took “dancing lessons” in the ballroom created by the Rockefellers as part of a get-to-know-you. Many of the furnishings have been taken away by family members, but staging is still effective when you’re aided by artworks by Maine-nurtured talents from Jamie Wyeth to Neil Welliver. The colors of the rooms are stirring–classic-contemporary. The hardwood floors reflect the sun and are luscious. Each of the entertaining rooms on the first floor comes across as more expansive than many salons. Beckoning through curved windows are the incomparable green lawns to the cove. The paneled dining room boasts an exquisite wall-sized tiled fireplace (“Richard picked the tiles”) in deft contrast with the curatorially perfect wallpaper in a cherryblossom motif. Your next steps take you into a glorious family lounge with a huge gran-
property photos as reported by zillow online.
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up to get contact information. Ever since, I find myself idly choosing new places for Stephen King to buy. Hey, Steve-O, this one’s for you. (Oh, that’s right, you don’t like to be called anything but Stephen.) Well here, you’d be simply known as King.
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ite fireplace and a great wall of curved glass looking out to the sea that also opens to a casual dining area and the beginning of the food-preparation spaces. It’s easy to imagine yourself in the long, low room where you can sip coffee by a roaring flame and plot your next move–with the walls reinforcing your zen-inspired calm in oceanic, seashell blue.
courtesy Deborah reed
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f course there is an island with dazzling granite countertops that are pearly but shot through with streaks of black. It reminds me of something. Everywhere you walk, the grand interior leads you with a motion of its own. Morrison says, “I’m not handcuffed to say you can’t develop it [the acres not protected by a conservation easement to the water]. But the preference is... “I showed it yesterday to a guy I know who could just write a check for it. But he’d want to put a house down there.” He motions toward the water. “And that’s not going to happen. The front 18.6 acres above the high-water mark is an easement granted in the Falmouth Land Trust. Richard was a conservationist.” On the other hand, “There are 13 acres of developable land on this side of the easement.” We look at the Neil Welliver painting and think of the artist’s recurring images of birch trees. Then we look outside at a perfect birch copse: life imitating art. “They planted a birch grove on their own,” Morrison says. As though in a command performance, the stand of slim white trees shot through with black vibrates in the soft breeze at the edge of a clearing near the water. The sun comes out from behind a cloud and the trees light up. That’s what it is. What a place to first think your thoughts, then collect them. With so little light pollution, the stars overhead must be incredible, not to mention the radio reception. On the many grassy paths, “There are blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries.” Animals sighted include “fox.” Upstairs, there’s a roof-deck zen garden that drops off to infinity, like an edgless pool or an aircraft’s windscreen, an aesthetic I can relate to as a former pilot but others might find unnerving. It is like flying up here. “There are four bedrooms” on this level, Morrison says. “Plus the office.” The office is quiet. Mostly cleared out,
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there are some conservation relics. An object in a glass case looks like a moon rock. But when you draw closer, you see a plaque that says “Black Rhino.” No, it’s not a souvenir piece of Black Rhino horn, considered an aphrodosiac by murderous poachers. Best guess, it’s a little joke–a bit of petrified rhino scat. How do you explain this in customs? If it’s a contest, and surely it is, the drama inside the house is exceeded by the landscape and dependencies, including an exquisite rectangular pool with adorable tea house and a 1955 visitors’ house: the kind of low ranch Dean Martin would pick, decorated in bright Maine-inspired fabrics and chairs. So who would, or could, buy this? Among the prospects expressing interest so far are “Folks from New York,” talking about making the property a family compound, where visiting children’s families could live in [possibly new] dwellings onsite. No chance of the Rockefeller family staying on here? “No, they have left for good. The family has decided to move on. It’s too painful.”
But Dr. Rockefeller is still everywhere. Part III Curb Appeal From The Air Before the Rockefellers, the family of the late, great photographer and sculptor Verner Reed III lived here. Funny, thoughtful, and talented (a tough triple), Verner shot many of history’s most striking images of JFK and Jackie in the early 1960s as a world-class magazine photographer for Fortune, Time, Paris Match, and Life. [See “Life After Life,” Portland Magazine, February/March 1999.] Deborah Reed, Verner’s wife, the Chairman of the Board of Trustees at Maine College of Art, knows and loves this property. It is dear to her, and she describes the estate as no other can: “It was originally built by the Pews. We bought it from the Loves (I think he had fishing vessels). Verner always teased me that I fell in love with the house because every time I opened a closet door the lights came on!” As the seasons passed, including mythic Christmases, Reed found “He couldn’t do all the gardens” in the sumJ u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 1 3
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mer, because he was focusing on his sculpture. “He said to me, ‘This is too much for me to take care of. Someday someone will come knocking at the door and offer me a pot of money and I’m going to sell it!’ And darn, that’s exactly what happened! “Richard [Rockefeller] had flown over it and identified it by air, and he had to have it.” Did he come to the door himself? “No, he sent someone over with an offer Verner couldn’t refuse.”
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he Reeds moved on in 1982. For the next two years, the Town of Falmouth assessors’ department lists 71 Foreside as the property of “Nancy C. Anderson” (Dr. Rockefeller’s first wife). Then it’s “Nancy C. Anderson &,” followed by “Richard G. Rockefeller” beginning in on August 13, 2004. On December 28, 2012, it changes from “Richard G. Rockefeller” to “71 Foreside LLC.” As for the acreage in the early 1980s, “When we owned it, it was 18 acres I think,” Deborah Reed says. “Maybe the rest [of the land] was owned by the Pew family.” Mysteries unfold to more mysteries: “The guest house was built for Mrs. Pew. She lost her sister and her husband in the
Conscientious Commentator “The first reason that moves me [to recommend Federal Estate Tax] is a personal one and has to do with my own children and my grandchildren. I care about their inheritance of course, but I don’t look upon that inheritance as a purely material thing. The quality of the world they grow up in will contribute as much or more to their well-being as any amount of money and possessions that I could bequeath. That is to say if the world I leave them is one of gated communities and growing inequality and misery among the have nots and downward mobility for the middle class and the degraded environment and a rotting social and physical infrastructure, then their inheritance will be a shabby one no matter how much money they get. I don’t see any way around that argument unless people like living in gated communities.” –Dr. Rockefeller, former Chair of the Rockefeller Family Fund, speaking at Responsible Wealth’s Estate Tax Teleconference, 12/12/2012.
Bermuda triangle. “I believe the Pews are the family [from the Sun Oil Company (Sunoco)], from Philadelphia. The son stopped by one day and asked me if he could go through the house so he could remember his childhood.” And did she invite him in? “Of course,” she laughs. “I love that sort of thing.” Clearly, Verner wasn’t the only charmer in the family. If the son is who we think it is, he is James Edgar Pew. During the 1960s, internet records reveal he was a member of what must have been a ham-radio club as a teenager, crossing invisible airwaves with his signals, connecting with other radio intuitives across great distances from this quiet spot at the still center of the world.
Today, the world barks at Edgar’s doorstep. Edgar Pew is at the top of the funding universe as Vice President and Deputy General Counsel at The Sun Products Company. A Yale grad and Columbia School of Law alumnus, Pew was also General Counsel for Global Drinks at the $4B Mars company. Before that, Clorox. If some undiscovered power drew a figure like Edger Pew back to Maine for a visit, you have to wonder, just how enchanting is this slice of land? There’s a word in Spanish that centers on the power of dearness of place, a place where you feel like your real self: querencia. While writing this story, I’ve pondered over the nostalgic boy who visited the Reeds in the early 1980s. He’s at the top of the
Photo Key: 1. Aerial of the expansive property. 2. Side view looking out toward Mussell Cove. 3. Airy kitchen with marble counter tops. 4. Conference room with wood paneling 5. Bird’s eye view of the property. 6. Kitchen/dining area. 7. Verner with Mary on the stone wall 8. Verner Reed photo of the view. 9. Yoga studio, also good for ballroom dance lessons! 10. Natural landscaped yard. 1 1 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
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property photos as reported by zillow online.
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world right now. On a crazy impulse, I call his number one last time. Edgar Pew comes to the phone.
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“I haven’t seen Mom smile this much in years.” “As Mom aged, we thought it best if she stayed in her home. We were wrong. Even with hours of home care, Mom wasn’t thriving. She needed more. She especially needed more socialization—not isolation. And more reliable care too. So she made the move to Scarborough Terrace. She truly loves her elegant new home! Life is more complete with lots of friends and activities, chefprepared meals, daily care, medication management, and even transportation to appointments and outings. I visit her often, so I know Mom is happier and more relaxed now… and I am too. We only wish she’d moved sooner.” Call Elizabeth today! 207.885.5568 or visit ScarboroughTerrace.com
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hat wasn’t me with the radio,” he laughs. “It must have been my uncle. He and I share the same name. I have vague recollections of seeing a ham radio set of my uncle’s. The house was built for my grandparents, George Layng Pew, Sr. and Catharine Anspach Pew. My grandparents lived there till they died in the 1970s. And that story is true, I had family members lost in the Bermuda Triangle. I only know what I know. A sibling of one of my grandparents and her husband were lost while sailing to Bermuda in the early to mid-1950s. They left four children. My grandparents took them in. They were between 18 months and 15 years old– my older cousins! “When my grandparents died, my father sold the developed property but kept the acres by the ocean. I don’t know if there was a conservation easement at the time. “My family bought part of an island in Boothbay” and started a family tradition of coming there. “When we were living in Boothbay, we still owned the fields.” As the years passed, “I had friends in Falmouth, and when I visited them I’d visit 71 Foreside Road. I’d check in with the owners and then I’d drive through the road through the fields to see the water.” When you’re in a beautiful place like this, time stalls. The mystical circles travel to infinity. “One time the owner was an artist and his family,” Edgar Pew recalls suddenly, almost before I can imagine him saying it. Verner and Deborah Reed.
What Exactly Is For Sale? Looking at the property-tax assessments, 71 Foreside is two major tracts of land conjoined. “You have the one property that’s 9 acres,” says Christian Kuhn, assistant assessor, Town of Falmouth. “That is assessed for $2,961,400 at Falmouth’s regular tax rate of 14.63 mill rate.” The other property is 22 acres, he says. “There’s a conservation easement on the assessed value of $1,236,800 for the 22 acres. The conservation easement makes it less.” How much less? “It’s probably a third of what it would typically be.” n
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Build a new Cape on 1+ scenic acre with 140' on Strawberry Creek. Make changes or develop a new design. 3-bedroom, 2-1/2 bath home with 1st-floor master. Bonus room upstairs for office, media room, etc. Canoe, kayak, orsit on your new farmer's porch and watch the wildlife. Builder working on house plans. Low Harpswell taxes. Also listed as land. MLS# 1081990
Amazing, easterly facing, open-ocean parcel on the rocks. A unique site with incredible privacy only appreciated by visiting. Existing 3-bedroom log-sided cottage with waterview deck. Stone fireplace. Hear the surf crashing. Septic installed in 2010. Fabulous oceanfront site convenient to all island amenities.
Elevated wooded parcel with views into Harpswell Sound. On a clear day, Mt. Washington views in the distance. End-of-the-road location. Very private. Rough driveway onto the parcel.
$387,500
$595,000
$249,500
11 SKYWATCH LANE
HARPSWELL WATERFRONT LONG ISLAND
HARPSWELL Steps from the rocky beach sits this well-maintained 2-bedroom cottage with fantastic views across Harpswell Sound and more! Open kitchen/ dining area with beamed ceiling, living room with cathedral ceiling and gas heat stove, additional sleeping space up the spiral staircase to the attic, plus walls of windows to let the sunshine and ocean views soak in.
$419,000 55 LEDGEVIEW LANE
Two acre waterfront Contemporary Chalet on a dead end road. Features include cathedral ceilings, walk-out basement which is partially finished, large waterview deck, two car detached garage with storage above, automatic generator and much more. Living room has lots of windows which look out to the water and all the wildlife that a tidal cove has to offer. Common dock, ramp and float for canoeing, kayaking or small boating. Very private site. Freshly painted inside and out. MLS #1238767
Boater's dream property. Deep water dock, protected deep water anchorage. Large lawn area to waterfront, unobstructed water views. Efficient 3 bedroom year-round home, waterview deck, 24x30 barn with upstairs storage. Quiet neighborhood. Spectacular sunrises over Quahog Bay. MLS #1222807
$699,500 ORR’S ISLAND WATERFRONT
This private peninsula is one of the most unique Orr’s Island has to offer. Create a summer getaway for your family, or make this your year round island sanctuary. Sit and relax on the southerly facing porch with open ocean views, and soak in island living at its best. Property has 1200ft of waterfront, a large “fish house” and wharf! A rare, spectacular piece of Harpswell. MLS #1253629
Boat Access Only. Enjoy your own private “getaway” cottage with over 5 acres and 400’ of west-facing frontage on the New Meadows River. Open kitchen/dining/living space with cathedral ceiling, 1st-floor bedroom plus additional sleeping space in the large loft. Screened porch with woodstove to take the chill off. Dock, ramp, and float allow for easy boating enjoyment.
$749,000 BAILEY ISLAND WATERFRONT
Spectacularly sited Cape on the western shore offering sunset views into Mackerel Cove Casco Bay, offshore islands, and Mt. Washington. Features a living room with brick fireplace, 1st-floor master bedroom, deck, attached 2-car garage, and more. Waterfront in-law/guest apartment with fireplace.
New England Homes & Living
THE HATCHER GROUP KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY
JOHN HATCHER
A HOUSE SOLD NAME ®
(207) 775-2121 WWW.JOHNHATCHER.US
Portland New East End Luxury Condos Starting at $569,900
Portland River’s Edge 5 BR, 4 Full BA 1 Half Bath $499,000
Cape Elizabeth Private Estate 5 BR, 3 Full BA, 1 Half Bath $975,000
Alfred Waterfront Estate 2 BR, 3 BA plus 2 separate guest homes $2,250,000 John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us
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PEMAQUID TRAIL Lovely waterfront home and guest cottage on Pemaquid Trail offering westerly views of John's Bay and Christmas Cove. Originally built in the 60's with a gracious style and many innovations this home has recently been upgraded with new windows, sheetrock, paint, wood floors, custom kitchen, 1/2 bath, and renovated full bath. The main house is completed by 2 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, den and living room with a grand stone fireplace whose chimney is encircled by a "good morning" staircase. The 2 bedroom, 1 bath, guest cottage remains charmingly rustic. The waterfront includes an inviting cove of sand where one can while away the day swimming, searching for treasures or napping on the nearby ledges. This is quintessential Maine at her finest and truly the most desirable location on Pemaquid Trail! Exclusively offered at $895,000
2568 Bristol Rd. New Harbor, ME 04554 | Office email: info@ldchase.com Office: 207-677-2978 | Fax: 207-677-2237
New England Homes & Living
United Realty
FRAN RILEY, GRI BROKER
ROLAND LITTLEFIELD BROKER
307 Belmont Ave. • Belfast, ME 04915 207-338-6000 • UnitedRealtyME.com
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Belmont
Belfast
Beautiful 10 rm, 3.5 bath Cape nestled back from the road on private 4.5 acres. Lovely kitchen, living, formal dining, den, Master En-Suite with fireplace, media suite & office, 2.5 baths complete 1st floor. 2 guest rooms & bath up. Ideal as a home business with private entrance & 1/2 bath. Spacious apartment over studio with private entrance. In-ground pool, deck & det. Garage. 5 Miles to Belfast. MLS:1268039 $334,900
p h i p p s B u r g B e aC h f ro n t e s tat e
Meticulously restored & modernized into a luxury family compound located on the dunes of renowned 7-mile Popham Beach. The 8BR residence pays homage to the rich history of the former Life-Saving Station. MLS 1264172 Kim Latour 207.687.9663 or Jonathan Leahy 207.798.2428 | $3,495,000
Waldo
Exquisite home, 3 miles to downtown oceanfront, boasting chef’s kitchen, Great Room adorned with impressive stone hearth & fireplace, overlooking private 6 Acres. 4000 sq ft. with 1st fl bdrm & bath, 3/2 up. Media room or studio over garage. Separate woodworking shop for the hobbyist or serious cabinet maker. MLS: 1250972 $399,900
ro C k p o rt
This stunning, sophisticated Arts & Crafts home takes advantage of the ocean views & breezes. No detail left undone, this custom turn-key property has it all. Chef ’s kitchen, central air, 1st floor MBR, custom landscape & 2 fireplaces. Spectacular property. Kate Jackson 207.593.1059 | $1,889,000
Belfast
Belfast
Bradford point - friendship
Captivating 6BR home on over 35+ pastoral acres w/ sweeping lawns & meadows to the water’s edge. A blend of a traditional 1850’s brick Cape and two extended wings. Magnificent kitchen w/ a screened room that has a lobster pot at the ready. The property has two small islands that convey. MLS 1254649 Kate Jackson 207.593.1059 | $1,750,000
Stockton Springs
Located ONLY 7 miles to Belfast Waterfront, Beautiful home just on the outskirts of downtown, If you think you can’t buy something in Belfast Waterfront property with a well built, lovely beautiful home boasts 10’ ceilings throughout; 2miles from ocean, yet on 30+ Acres! House fea- for just over $100k any longer, take a look at Ranch home, all for UNDER $200k! New metal Cherry hardwood and tile floors. Lovely kitchen tures delightful screened porch, surrounded by this! Quaint home features 3 bedrooms and 1 roof installed in 2015, newer Pellet stove in the features; center island, granite counters, stainless woods and fields. Well appointed kitchen with bath. Kitchen opens to dining area; wonderful living room, Kitchen and dining area overlookappliances. Living room with brick hearth, slider lovely cabinets, flooring & stainless appliances, front porch. 1st floor bedroom. 2 Car garage. ing the beautiful shorefront with deck off kitchen to back yard. Large Master En-Suite with walk open to dining area and then to living room with This home is very conveniently located only 3 to enjoy entertaining. Lot offers nearly 200’ in closet; twin vanities, shower spa. 2 spacious cathedral ceiling; adorned by brick hearth & miles to downtown Belfast. Taxes and heat costs on the shore with an acre of beautiful lawns, guest rooms & full bath. Enjoy outdoor enterwoodstove. 2 bedrooms down with loft on 2nd won’t break your budget on this fine home! fruit trees and convenient stairs to the beach! taining with fire pit & cement paver patio off floor. Very unique offering on Crocker Road. Surveyed lot. MLS: 1257175 $104,900 1 Car garage. BEST BUY ON SALT WATER! back deck; covered front porch. Private setting. MLS:1266618 $250,000 MLS: 1261845 $199,900 MLS: 1265852 $299,900 g r e at p o n d - ro m e summit hiLL - harrison h a r p s w e L L wat e r f ro n t Stylish contemporary home with unobstructed views of the Unique bowed roof Cape situated on a private & protected cove One of the most beautiful lakes in Maine, just 1.5 hours from White Mountains. Comfortably elegant 4700+ sf on 45 acres with 188' of shore front and dock. 1st fl. master suite, large bonus Portland, minutes from Waterville and Augusta. 3 bedrooms, of private field and forest. Solar hot water system/radiant heat. entertainment room, new windows, charming built-ins, new 2 baths, hardwood floors throughout, wood stove, cathedral Beautiful gardens & stonework. 3-car attached garage, 1000sf deck w/ Trek decking & Northwest Redwood railings & copper ceilings, wrap-around deck, recreation room with built-in workshop, whole house generator. MLS 1255343 tops, updated kitchen w/ custom cabinets & Bosch DW. MLS 1238558 bar. Boating, sailing, fishing. MLS 1265617
Tom Kruzshak 207.770.2212 | $1,425,000
Kim Latour 207.687.9663 | $795,000
Work, Play, Live...
Tom Kruzshak 207.770.2212 | $499,900
Featured Listings
Representing buyers and sellers in Greater Cumberland County & beyond.
South Portland - Open floor plan, loads of upgrades, 1st-floor master suite. Finished room in basement complete with a sauna. 3-car garage with finished bonus room above. Situated on corner lot. $699,000
Melissa McKersie m 207.776.8390 o 207.770.2216 MMcKersie@legacySIr.com
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Polly Nichols
m 207.831.6062 o 207.770.2216 Pnichols@legacySIr.com
Portland - Rare buildable lot with sweeping views of downtown & Back Cove. Build the home you’ve been dreaming of in the burgeoning East End. Close to 295. R-6 zoning with option for a single or 2-family residence. $470,000
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New England Homes & Living
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“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” LOON LAKE
Yr-Rd Log Cottage on No-Motors Loon Lake. 2-BR Plus Sleeping Loft, Open Deck w/Unobstructed Lake Views, All Day Sun. Sold Furnished, Good Rental Potential, Listen to the Loons, Excellent Fishing! $312,500
Caryn Dreyfuss Broker
(207) 233-8275
caryn@citycoverealty.com
DODGE POND
Traditional 3-BR Log Cabin is Just Steps from 700’ Shared WF, Dock, Storage Barn. Relax to the Sound of Round Pond Stream, Also Includes Add’l Shared 18 acre Wooded Parcel. $229,000
RANGELEY LAKE
Your Base Camp for Rangeley Adventure! Niboban Sporting Camps Blends the Advantages of Lakefront Cabin Ownership with the Convenience of Association Living. 1,2, and 3 Bedroom Cabins Available. Starting at $179,900
RANGELEY LAKE
ARNOLD POND
RANGELEY LAKE
Just a Stone’s Throw from Beautiful RL, Fully Renovated 4-BR Home w/Expansive Views, Master BR w/Stairs to Lake, Dock System, Detached 3-Car/Storage Above. $664,900
Turn of the Century Log Fishing/Hunting Lodge w/5-BR, Granite FP & Built-in Woodstove, 14x18 Bunk House/Shed, 174’ WF on Pristine Wilderness Pond. $199,500
Built in 1924, This Vintage 4-BR Lake Home Blends Old Rangeley Charm w/Modern Updates. Very Private Park-Like Setting w/Level Lawn to Prime WF, Drive-In Boat House, Plus Nile Brook Frontage. $975,000
2455 Main Street • P.O. Box 1234 • Rangeley, ME 04970
www.realestateinrangeley.com
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New England Homes & Living
Harpswell What a wonderful package is this charming 2,000 square foot, 3 bedroom, 2 bath Cape with 2 car garage and studio above, along with a restored 1860 barn. It’s all situated on 3.3 acres of elevated land on Great Island with very impressive southerly views of Quahog and Casco Bays. $519,000.
Brunswick This magnificent home at Botany Place is unique and exceptional in every way. Its 3,735 SF of flexible floor plan allows for first or second floor living. On the first floor, a bright, open concept living area with gas fireplace, kitchen with superior appliances, half bath, laundry, first floor master bedroom suite and access to both a screened-in porch and an open deck. Upstairs are 3 additional bedrooms, 2 baths, and a sitting loft that overlooks the living areas below. $580,000.
240 Maine Street • Brunswick, ME 04011 • (207) 729-1863 For Properties, Open Houses, Visual Tours – www.MaineRE.com
HARBORVI EW PROPERTIES
RESIDENTIAL • COMMERCIAL • INVESTMENT 147 Fore Street • Portland, ME 04101
(207) 878-7802
www.HarborviewProperties.com
Portland
Waterfront condo with immediate water views from every window. Wall of glass facing Casco Bay and the ever changing seascape is the focus of this top-floor unit at Portland Pier. Featuring 2 master suites plus another ½ bath, rare water-side deck/porch, open kitchen, skylights. GARAGE PARKING, pets welcome. $414,000 The Murphy Team 207–712–4796
PEAKS ISLAND
Just across from Peaks Island’s Centennial beach are two immaculate homes on a nearacre of pastoral rolling lawn. The elegant, spacious main house has gorgeous westerly views over blue and sparkling Casco Bay, the Portland skyline and beyond. The fully furnished, year round guest house has peeks of the bay and is ready to rent or be enjoyed by friends and family. $925,000 Rhonda Berg 207-756-3450.
RHONDA BERG Peaks Island resident & specialist. rberg@harborviewproperties.com
THE MURPHY TEAM Top producing waterfront agents. murphyteam@harborviewproperties.com
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Basement Waterproofing Basement Structural Repairs Basement Sump Pumps Basement Humidity & Mold Control ...and Nasty Crawl Spaces too!
1-866-546-0706 TCHaffordPortland.com
WaterfrontWATERFRONT + Forest = Maine Retreat DOWNEAST FORESTS SECOND LAKE FOREST - 524 acres in Marion Perched on your own peninsula between Second and Gardner Lakes, you have the extensive, quiet waters of both lakes at your disposal. Explore the three miles of property shoreline, build a waterfront camp, and enjoy the serenity. $725,000
LINCOLN COVE FOREST - 124 acres in Perry Over a mile of frontage on Cobscook Bay provides plenty of shoreline for exploring. Slightly up the rise, there are 180o ocean views from previously open land that could be reclaimed. Paved access, a ROW and internal roads. $650,000
Fountains Land, Inc. 1-866-348-4010 All of our rural land listings are at fountainsland.com
New England Homes & Living
Assisting people buy and sell properties in the beautiful Western mountains of Maine since 1985 Phillips. 52 acres and a 180 degree view of the western mountains. Open floor plan of kitchen/living/dining. Granite counter tops. 3 bd plus loft. 2.5 baths. $439,000. New Portland. Renovated cape on 85 acres. Field, forest, fruit trees and pastures. 3 bd 2 bath. 30 mins to Sugarloaf. $425,000
Eustis, Flagstaff Lake. Waterfront camp with 2bd, 1 bath. Screened in porch and garage. Dead End road in the “Wing Community.” $189,000 Carrabassett Valley. Get ready for ski season! 3 bd 1bah in Spring Farm, one of the original ski villages. Metal roof, 2 woodstoves and gas heat. Several upgrades. $148,000
259 Main Street, Kingfield CSMrealeState.CoM 207-265-4000
Boothbay Harbor Waterfront
Sitting on the edge of the shore, is this 2 BR, 2 BA home with deep water dock and float. Open concept living and 3 levels of decks to enjoy the views from Mill Cove to the outer harbor and beyond. Located less than a mile to downtown Boothbay Harbor. $695,000 63 Townsend Avenue, Boothbay Harbor 04538 633-2222 or (800) 576-6911 • www.pottlerealtygroup.com
Edgecomb
Lovely home offers 3 bedrooms and 1.5 baths. Bright, open and airy, plenty of space for entertaining and areas for relaxing. Exceptional perennial gardens, wrap around deck, above ground pool, 4 season sun porch, common area with dock and mooring. $269,000
237 Waldoboro Road, Jefferson, ME 04348 207-549-5657 207-549-5657 • FAX 207-549-5647
Bath
A modestly comfortable 3 bedroom home with lots of possibilities and remarkable waterfront lot. Sites for dock on waters edge. Full walkout basement with pellet stove & woodstove hookup. $379,900
Damariscotta Lake in Jefferson Is it time to be near the water? This 3.9 acre lot is waiting for your home or cabin. It is in within feet of the common beach and just a short distance from the common boat launch. Imagine next summer by the water..... $76,000 or a 1.41 acre for $ 37,900 www.BlackDuckRealty.com email: info@blackduckrealty.com
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Cromwell Coastal © Properties
P.O. Box 1557 • Located on the south corner of Route 1 & Flood Ave. • Wiscasset, ME 04578 Toll-Free (800) 215-8117 • Phone: 882-9100 • Fax: 882-9111
www.cromwellprop.com
Helping Buyers and Sellers throughout Midcoast Maine! J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 2 7
The Knowles Company is proud to be a signature sponsor of Acadia’s Centennial.
Real estate sales and vacation rentals since 1898 For all your real estate needs on Mount Desert Island and the Downeast Maine coast. Also offering more than 400 vacation rentals near Acadia National Park.
1 Summit Road Northeast Harbor, ME 207-276-3322 info@KnowlesCo.com
www.KnowlesCo.com
WILTON
Peter Hawkes
KINGFIELD
Exquisite home located on scenic Wilson Lake in Western Maine. 4.5 acres, private dock with shore frontage, bright & spacious interior, 1st floor master suite, and in-law apartment. Beautifully landscaped. Within striking distance to Sugarloaf & golf courses. | $795,000
Country Cape w/ 17+ acres along the Carrabassett. Recently remodeled, open kitchen w/ high-end appliances, great room & geo-thermal heat/cooling. 2 car garage, large barn w/ horse stalls, carriage barn, workshop & guest apt. Just minutes to Sugarloaf. | $895,000
KINGFIELD Custom Cape with large barn sited on 40 acres. Built with heart & soul and uncompromising attention to detail. Gourmet kitchen, master suite with jetted tub, game room, sauna and sunroom. 4 bay carriage garage & pole barn. Stunning views! | $945,000
SUGARLOAF Recently expanded & completely remodeled 5+BR/6.5BA Post & Beam home located Trailside. New kitchen and high-end appliances, radiant floor heat, fieldstone fireplace, large ski room with adjoining locker room, and extra family/game room. | $1,295,000
P E T E R H AW K E S 2 0 7 . 6 3 2 . 2 3 4 5
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New England Homes & Living
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tHe Best way to Buy your New Home Maine’s First & Only Agency Representing Buyers exclusively 100% Loyalty • No Conflicts of Interest
681 Bath Rd. (US Route 1) Wiscasset • 207-882-7225 681 Bath Rd. (US Route 1) Wiscasset • 207-882-7225 38 Sea Street, Boothbay Harbor • 207-633-9899 38 Sea Street, Boothbay Harbor • 207-633-9899 Open April 15 - October 15 Daily, 9am-5pm Open April 15 - October 15 Daily, 9am-5pm www.islandteakcompany.blogspot.com www.islandteakcompany.blogspot.com
Knowledge. experience. Trust. Search All Maine Listings: mainehome.com
Noyes Real Estate Agency
Serving the Rangeley Region for over 50 years! #434.
#302 Close to town. Like NEW home, elegant interior, great rental potential. Deeded access to Haley Pond, direct trail access NEW PRICE $348,000
#400 Large Rangeley cottage on Bold Mountain Road with renovated permanent dock. House is at the water’s edge of Mooselookmeguntic Lake $539,600
#405 Rangeley Lake, vintage home with full foundation, southern exposure, three stories of living space, furnished, close to village and golf course, $340,000.
Enjoy Rangeley Lake in this year round home. Spacious open living area with lots of window for the great views. Includes woodstove, 2 large bedrooms, 2 baths, laundry, dock and deck. Potentisl for 3rd bedroom. NEW PRICE $449,000
#301 Large home with stunning west views! Well built with lots of extras, 2 car garage, bonus room, water access, hot tub, full bar. Super price $249,900
#321 Lakehouse Condo-lots of space on three floors with 3+ bedrooms, 3 baths, close to village, LAKE VIEWS, shared beach, large rooms, $220,000
#300 Log home, 3 bedrooms, oversized garage, access to Dodge Pond and sled trails. Includes storage building, raised beds and porch! $245,000!
#326
#437 Ranch home in a country setting with 2000 sq ft, and frontage on the Sandy River in Madrid. Garage, sunporch, 8 rooms, just 15 minutes to Rangeley, direct access to the sled and 4 wheeler trails. Easy one floor living.Low taxes. $139,000
Let us be your buyer broker and find your perfect vacation-recreation home.
At Haines Landing on Mooselookmeguntic. Lake views, screened porch, common beach area, boat slips for rent and boat launch. Completely remodeled in 2004—like new with lots of charming details. $392,000
2388 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970
207-864-9000 • info@noyesrealty.com • www.noyesrealty.com
J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 3 1
“Unforgettable”
21mm
“A novel that captures 1920s Boston through the eye of a young Italian castrato seeking love.”
Boston Castrato
The
Colin W. Sargent
R
affi left more than Rom e behind. Snipped by a bishop as a boy, he is bundled off to America when the Church takes shame Forbidden to use his . voice, he explores oth er gifts that steal him into the society of Boston’s gangsters, necromancers, and crew surrounding the the wild poet Amy Lowell as he searches for a gen love song. What E. uine L. Doctorow’s Ra gtim e did for New York, The Boston Castrato does for 1920s Bosto n.
In exuberant and yet precise prose, Colin Sargent conjures a sweeping tale of lov e, murder, and rev enge. - Ch ris tin a Bak er kli ne , #1 Ne w Yor k Tim es Bes tse lli ng au th or of or ph aN Tra iN.
Wicked shards of humor and sophis ticated, astonishing word play reminiscen t of James Joyce’s Ulysses make up the heart of this incand escent novel by Co lin Sargent. A rare book, one that wil l settle into the sou l for a lifetime. - Mo rg an Cal lan ro ge rs, au th or , red rub Y he arT iN a Col d blu e sea
From Barbican Press of London and Hull U.S. Launch October 2016 Available For Pre-Order From Amazon.co.uk £9.99 / $17.95
www.BarbicanPress.com
Cover design : www.rawshock.co .uk
Colin W. sargent (www.colinwsargent.c om)
ISBN 978-1-9099
54-20-5
9 781909 95 4205
Fiction By Deana Coddaire
Coping
Amelia Connolly
W
Mechanism
hat are you afraid of?” my psychiatrist asks, and I hate her a little. I breathe. “We’ve looked at houses in Kennebunk for six months.” I speak slowly, as if to a child. “Nothing is perfect. Or we can’t afford it. Our current home is old, lots of character. It’s our first house. We’ve been there for 24 years. Our children were born there.” Dr. K tucks gray hair behind her ear, waiting. “So, uh…” Her silence throws me. “We’re thinking of building…but, what if…” My hands flap weakly. “What if…?” I know. It’s because my mother died, right? It’s what everyone concluded. One bright bulb actually said my brother “turned gay” for that reason. Who knew? An endless mental ribbon of anxieties unfurls: What if we buy a house and I hate it? What if we build, and make all the wrong decisions? What if John loses his job? What if something terrible happens? And then it hits me. The last time I moved from one house to
another, something terrible did happen. And damn it, Dr. K could be right. October 28th, 1978. Moving day. I was eleven, and my siblings and I would finally have our own rooms—which meant sleeping alone for the first time. That night, I tiptoed downstairs. “Mum? I can’t sleep.” The television flickered blue around my parents’ door. “Up in a minute.” I scampered up the steep stairway on all fours (seemed faster this way) and leapt into bed. My mother appeared, and I wriggled happily. Her footsteps crackled the old linoleum like bubble wrap. I counted steps: OneTwo-Three-Four. She sat on my bed, chuckling. “What’s so funny?” I squinted at her face in the dim light. “This house is so big,” she said, her voice soothing. “Dad says I’d go downstairs from our old bedroom, and my footsteps went, ‘thump, thump, thump, thump’ to the kitchen.” I was already drifting.
“Now, it’s ‘thump, thump, thump, thump, thump, thump, thump…” I fell asleep to the thumps. That weekend, my mother went on retreat with the church, and on Sunday evening when I heard our Suburban’s burbling rumble, I ran outside. Moving far slower than her 32 years warranted, she climbed down from the driver’s seat. I burrowed my face into her sweater, inhaling that signature mixture of scents: Jungle Gardenia cologne, Winston cigarettes, and Dial soap. “Back to Bilbo?” I asked; we were reading The Hobbit again. She gave me a wan smile. “I’m sorry, Deana. I have a headache.” She rested her arm around my shoulders as we went inside. My father appeared and took her suitcase. They headed to their bedroom, and I headed to our china closet, which, inexplicably, was also our medicine cabinet. I grabbed the familiar bottle of pills and a glass of water and entered my parents’ bedroom. My mother was speaking. “–worst I’ve had.” She turned, squinting like I was the sun, and accepted my offerings. Later, I went downstairs to say that I, too, had a headache–a ruse to miss school. My father’s anxious gaze never left the limp shape of my mother on the bed, a dishrag over her eyes. “Take an aspirin and go to bed,” he snapped. The next morning, we were greeted by Dad’s sister, Sandy. As a rule, we only saw Aunt Sandy, Uncle Wayne, and my three cousins, Kelly, Kim and Koral (always spoken as one word: KellyKimandKoral) at their Christmas open house. We stopped short, agog. “Dad’s at the hospital with Mum–her headache got really bad.” She spoke quickly, no slivers of silence for questions, and added that Mum’s best friend Marilyn was on her way; she’d be keeping us overnight. No school after all, I thought. I was lying on Marilyn’s couch–the result of a tag-induced asthma attack–when my father came by later. Words drifted from the kitchen: “Meningitis…coma…life support…” I understood none of this and lay quietly until he came in. “Mum’s still sick,” he said, looking elsewhere. “You’re staying here again.” Turning onto our street Wednesday, I knew something was happening. Familiar cars lined the street, announcing the presJ u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 6 1 3 3
“A lake…is the earth’s eye.” Henry David Thoreau
See it aboard the Katahdin. Katahdin Cruises on Moosehead Lake Sailing late June through Columbus Day Tel: (207) 695-2716 Fax: (207) 695-2367 PO Box 1151 Greenville, ME 04441
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Fiction ence of my mother’s family; strange for a weekday, but I was always thrilled to see these beloved, lively people. The glowering sky expanded downward and clung to the windows like a wet, gray shroud as Marilyn’s car rolled to a stop and we tumbled out into the mist. We trooped up the stairs, and Aunt Mary Ann emerged. Awaiting her boozy embrace, I smiled patiently, but my lips fell slack when I noticed the makeup running down her pale cheeks in black, tragic streaks. She leaned down to whisper, “It’s okay to cry, honey.” Aunt Sandy followed. Grasping my shoulders, she said, “You’re the oldest—be strong.” Baffled, I entered the strangely subdued house. Forced, damp smiles loomed everywhere, each brittle gaze deflecting, ricocheting away. y mother’s teenaged sister made her way through the murmuring tide and with uncharacteristic gentleness offered to brush my hair. I sat on my father’s mushroom footstool, a brown velour oddity permanently placed at the dining-room window, where a cracked mirror perched on the sill; I babbled incessantly about anything I deemed impressive. My father’s voice: “Kids! Let’s see what you’ve done with your rooms.” I raced my siblings to the staircase, barely noticing the sudden silence. We stampeded up, briefly bottle-necking on the dim, crooked landing at the top; a silent shoving match ensued before we popped like corks into the hallway. Upon reaching my room, my mouth dropped into a surprised “o.” My grandmother was perched on the unmade bed, looking as incongruous as a painting in a Porta-Potty. “Kids,” Dad’s voice was strange, and he cleared his throat. “Mum’s gone up to Jesus,” he said, and then, “Ah, Christ, Ma.” He put his thick, callused hand over his eyes, and for the first and only time in my life, I watched– with a horror as deep as I have ever known– as my father began to cry. Time stopped. Thoughts and feelings ceased for a few heartbeats…but too soon, the numbness faded. The combined shock of the news, my father’s choice of words (Dad and Jesus didn’t see eye to eye), and seeing him cry knocked my world asunder. My response was visceral, violent; my grandmother hurried to the china cabinet for my asthma medicine.
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It was too much to bear. So, in those next few minutes, I flung that unimaginable, fledgling sorrow into a closet, locked the door, and threw away the key. “A coping mechanism,” Dr. K says. “Common with children. They avoid mourning the loss because facing it is unthinkable. And sometimes, it works. But,” she pins me with her gaze, and I refrain from squirming. “It must be mourned eventually.” Her words challenge me, but I hear an internal sentry: I’m sorry, ma’am—those files are inaccessible. Nothing to see, lady. Move along. “I’d like to try something,” she continues, and my body tenses. “It has to do with appealing to your heart–your inner child–instead of your adult brain. May I?” I nod, and she begins to speak. “That little girl inside is so sad.” Her voice, gentle and soft, forces my eyes down and makes me grit my teeth. “So alone.” I suddenly desperately want her to stop; I am caroming toward a yawning, immense, black-filled canyon. “She misses her mother so much.” The emotion in Dr. K’s voice draws my eyes upward, and I am shocked to see tears in her eyes. “She needs comfort, and she can’t find it. That little girl is so sad, Deana—but it’s okay to be sad.” Oh no. Dr. K’s face doubles, triples through my tears. Ragged sobs rend out of my chest; my sorrow feels too large to be allowed. She continues after a while. “Your home represents comfort and safety–like a mother figure,” she suggests. “If you are subconsciously equating this move to the one from your childhood, it stands to reason that you are equating it to the loss of your mother–a loss you never mourned.” The theory resonated. She said I needed to allow myself to cry– and cry, I did: in the shower, on a jog, in the car. And on moving day, when all we had were the echoes of our footsteps in empty rooms, my husband and son patiently waited while my daughter and I walked through every room, weeping and holding hands. But we moved, and no tragedy struck. New memories are accumulating, and it feels like home. I feared being unable to remember our old house without pain, but the memories are fond, comfortable. They remind me that loss–a door through which we all must pass–is survivable; some of us just take longer to find the key and walk through it, for fear of what lies on the other side. n
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2. PCMA FUNDRAISING GRAND CREWE FUND 1. Portia and Joshua Clark 2. Marjorie Gallant, Alice Kornhauser 3. Elizabeth Israel, Merle Nelson 4. Jennifer and Rob Elowitch 5. Dan Crewe and Lois Judge
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TIQA OPENING 1. Cheryl Lewis, Bill Nasaon, Noreen Kotts 2. Robyn Ray, Zach Douglas 3. Deen Haleem II, Carol Mitchell, Deen Haleem 4. Gail Johnson, Beau Byrne
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AMERICANA HOME
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Americana Workshop is a unique store offering a wide range of antiques and custom home furnishings. Set in an 1820 Maine Cape with attached barn, there are room settings to help inspire your creative mind. The showroom is constantly changing with new items daily!
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Buying Gold & Silver • Delivery Available • Free Appraisals
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Where Luxury Meets Nature
Come Play Maine’s Best This Summer OPEN TO THE PUBLIC FOR GOLF & DINING New Renovations for 2016
GPS Unit in Golf Carts
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On-Course Lunch at Over the Ledge
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1 & 2 Week Memberships Available
Fantastic Vistas Full Range & New Short Game Practice Facility PGA Professionals on Staff
Stay & Play Packages Available from Partner Hotels, Including Special Packages at Spruce Point Inn.
Visit www.boothbayharborcc.com for additional information or to schedule tee times. 207.633.3673 • 50 Sugar Maple Lane, Boothbay, Maine
Luxurious Clubhouse with 5-Star Restaurants
On-Course Lunch at Over the Ledge Bar & Grill