Portland Monthly Magazine July/August 2017

S p o t t i n g t h e S u p e r Ya c h t s | L e va n t i n e C u i s i n e

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Jul/Aug 2017 Vol. 32 NO. 5 $5.95

w w w. p o rt l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m Maine’s city magazine

On The Water

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BRIGHT COLORS CAN SAVE TURNPIKE WORKERS’ LIVES

(BUT THIS ONLY WORKS IF YOU’RE LOOKING.) Our Turnpike crews work hard to keep you safe. We need you to help keep us safe, too. When you see our flashing work-zone lights, please put that cell phone down, keep both hands on the wheel, and slow down. Remember, whenever you're driving through our work zone, our safety is in your hands. www.maineturnpike.com

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Maine Life

Personalities

Food&Drink

Shelter&Design

28 Portland After Dark “Where It’s Summer 24/7.”

Like Mainers in uniform?

It’s the perfect attire for Navy Week!

Interviews By Olivia Gunn

A swelling tide of restaurants import the fragrance of the Middle East to Portland’s shores.

By Claire Z. Cramer

Prison Break: the old York County Jail for sale for $250K. From Staff & Wire Reports

60 Over There, Over Here

91 Everyday Sommelier

Welcome to your new home in Biddeford Pool, Maine’s best kept secret.

By Colin W. Sargent

Perspectives

96 Dining Guide

118 New England Home & Living

97 Restaurant Review

Art&Style

25 Maine Classics 27 Concierge

By Sarah Moore

28 Experience 39 Chowder 43 Summer of Love

Your 2017 Maine Festival Guide.

54 The One That Got Away

Jill Blackwood; Aaron Rosa ; meaghan maurice

M a g a z i n e

Why did Portland let the legendary USS Constitution slip through her fingers?

From Staff & Wire Reports

65 Ships 2 Shore

Ahoy! Below the radar, here’s the lowdown on some mega-yachts that frequent our summer shores.

From Staff & Wire Reports

46 Home Port

Penobscot elder Charles Shay, a hero of the beaches of Normandy, engages generations today.

By Haley Snyder

20 From the Editor 22 Letters 59 Peril on the Sea

Maine has a big stake in the USS Fitzgerald’s mysterious collision.

By Blair Best

95 L’Esprit de l’Escalier “Bright Soul”

By Rhea Côté Robbins

83 Hungry Eye

“Uncorked” A sommelier’s most-asked questions, answered.

By Ralph Hersom

Pull up a seat on the ocean’s lip at North 43 in South Portland.

By Claire Z. Cramer

79 Jailhouse Rocks

113 House of the Month

73 Bow Spirits

Carvings we love above the dolphin striker.

By Herb Adams

133 Fiction

“Surf Lung One”

By Frederick Sargent

136 Flash Cover: Casco Bay Lines ferry ride. Photo by Meaghan Maurice.

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July/August

M a i n e ’ s

PORTLAND

|

WESTBROOK

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Palimpsest Pal·imp·sest ‘pal m(p)sest/ noun • Something showing traces of an earlier existence.

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timeless style for coastal living 2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

o Navy. To a coastal city like Portland, Navy Week (August 21-27) is a natural celebration. Scratch Portland’s surface and you see the United States Navy in all its glory across the centuries.

We’re so Navy that Commodore Preble, captain of the USS Constitution, was a Portland native. The Constitution’s connection to our seafaring city is so deep that in 1931 there was a movement to have her berthed here in Portland as our local flagship.

Navy Week is personal to me, and to my wife. I’m an Annapolis grad who flew Navy helicopters. My first duty station was Brunswick Naval Air Station. My wife, LCDR Nancy D. Sargent, a Navy dentist, outranked me when we were in the Navy. Now that’s romance! I was a Lieutenant when she was a Lieutenant Commander. Both of us were in the service because of a Navy tradition.

My grandfather, CAPT Colin D. Headlee, USN, commanded the Navy side of Great Diamond Island during his last tour in World War II. Nancy’s father, CAPT Charles R. Davis, USN, was chief legal officer for the Sixth Fleet in the Mediterranean.

When four-star Admiral Greg Johnson retired to Maine, he did not delay in subscribing to Portland Monthly.

I think that’s because this magazine finds joy in looking below the surface of things. Here’s a flash: Did you know that before our ships crossed the Atlantic to participate in D-Day, the North Atlantic Fleet anchored in Portland’s Long Island Sound? Talk about being history’s Liberty Port. The morning after the troops went, the roads and paths of Portland’s coastal defense islands were awash with thousands of beer bottles, green and brown, left capriciously by those who would risk everything for their country just days later on the coast of France.

Remember the Maine? If U.S. travelers visit Havana more in the coming years, maybe we’ll get to remember her better.

Portland and the coast of Maine have great bragging rights as far as the Navy is concerned. Talk about grace under pressure–just think of the Liberty Ships Above: Edward Moran’s painting of the Ranger, Portland’s women and men built during World War built in Kittery, shows an early example of a U.S. sloop of war receiving a salute from a vessel repre- II. Then there’s the heroic tradition of Bath Iron Works delivering all those destroyers (82 in World War II senting a foreign power (France, February 1778). alone) under budget, followed by 24 Oliver Hazard Perry Class frigates, a host of Arleigh Burke Class guided-missile destroyers (39 and counting), and the technologically advanced USS Zumwalt (DDG 1000). Navy CAPT Chris Cassidy (York High School) shines as a top astronaut. We are all still mourning the loss of Brunswick Naval Air Station and the U.S. Naval Reserve facility on the Portland waterfront.

John Paul Jones’s ship Ranger was made in Kittery. She was one of the first U.S. Navy vessels ever recognized on the high seas by a foreign vessel with a salute.

Contemporary Portland is a palimpsest. We are profoundly enriched by the visible traces of our maritime heritage. This summer, this maritime DNA will show its stripes and glow with renewed pride as we salute the partnership of Maine and the Navy. To meet some Mainers in Navy uniform today, see our story, page 46.

Maine’s City Magazine 165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 www.portlandmagazine.com

Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Ben Berger Advertising Executive ben@portlandmonthly.com Clark Shepard Advertising Executive clark@portlandmonthly.com Elise Kennaugh Advertising Executive elise@portlandmonthly.com

editorial Sarah Moore Assistant Editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Olivia Gunn Communications Director olivia@portlandmonthly.com Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Jason Hjort Webmaster Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ accounting Eric S. Taylor Controller eric@portlandmonthly.com Interns Blair Best, Ryanne Desjardins, Megan Dunlap, Haley Snyder, Angela Fernandez & Emma Hyde

subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street

Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews.

Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All cor­re­spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric Taylor.

Newsstand Cover Date: July/August 2017, published in July 2017, Vol. 32, No. 5, copyright 2017. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially.

Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment.

Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with news­stand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December. We are proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 65 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.

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letters editor@portlandmonthly.com

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Authentic Maine

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MONTHLY

summerguide 2017

JEWELRY | GIFTS | ORNAMENTS | HOME DÉCOR

pAt h

Ex Adventures

r m At e s u m m e F o r t h e u lt i

Chance Encounters “I faintly remember that incident at the dump that Eddie Fitzpatrick describes in “Now That’s Maine” [Summerguide 2017].

If I was hauling trash, I was probably half asleep. As far as my being seen by Eddie as being in the “upper echelons” here in Maine (or in America), we were really more on equal footing. They didn’t pay governors very much in those days!

If I were to lend my own voice to the piece, I’d tell you that what I love most about Maine is…my life! It’s where I was born, educated, and worked as Governor of Maine. My whole life has been associated with Maine.”

Former U.S. Ambassador to Canada Ken Curtis, Governor of Maine (1967–1975) Half a World Away Thank you for the great Summerguide issue of Portland Monthly. I enjoyed reading all 300-plus pages of it. The stories on Maine lobster and oysters even made me homesick for Maine food! [See Fujio’s photography in “To The Lighthouse,” Summerguide 2017].

Fujio Mino, Tokyo, Japan On Point Thank you for allowing me to share my experience of exploring the history of Portland’s Abyssinian Meeting House [Summerguide 2017]. The title “Chasing Frederick Douglass” troubled me. There were many at the time who would’ve wanted to re-enslave Douglass and silence him.

Therefore, the idea of “chasing” Frederick

Douglass has too great a weight.

Darlene Taylor, Washington D.C. Apostles of Print I subscribe to Portland Monthly and eagerly await its arrival every month. I was thrilled to see a terrific column by Colin W. Sargent [See “Reading: Do You Dare?”], extolling the many virtues of print. Sargent’s prediction? A print comeback is coming soon to give us relief from the cacophony of the internet. His advice? “Buy all the print newspapers you can right now, because they are on the eve of a renaissance.” Well, we did. Shameless plug: I just acquired Delray Newspaper and Boca Newspaper–so I sure hope he’s right.

Jeff Perlman, Publisher, Your Delray Boca

Building Maine’s Great Spaces.

Pre-hipster Portland I absolutely love your magazine! I’m so excited when a new issue arrives and can’t wait to voraciously devour it from cover to cover. Keep up the fabulous work, as it is much appreciated! Thank you for bringing Maine to me when I’m unable to be there.

Portland is my favorite local destination for long weekends and special occasions, and I’ve been visiting since long before its infancy in the foodie hipster scene.

Stephanie Gilbride, Pepperell, MA Twist of Fate I enjoy Portland Monthly, especially your Summerguide issue! It may just be the “funny, fickle finger of fate,” but your story, “The Bahamian Yankee” [Summerguide, 2017], hit home. I’m writing a book about growing up, family, and stories, which includes the very same tale about Sir Harry Oakes. Many thanks!

Carol Tanner, Falmouth Island Life Thank you so much for the copy [of Summerguide 2017] that I received in the mail.

Wow! What a wonderful story. Great job.

[See “Dream Islands,” Summerguide 2017.]

Cap Mona, Portland The Shell Game I love the layout and your piece for the oyster feature! [See “New Oyster Cult,” Summerguide 2017.]

Julie Qiu, New York

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Among our fiavors

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from top left: megan dunlap; us archives; courtesy saddleback; hinckleyyachts; disney; megan dunlap

Well, she was a frequent visitor, anyway. Earhart was an investor, and chief poster pilot, of the Boston-Maine Airways, later named Northeast Airlines. She was also a close friend of Phillips Payson and a regular guest at his home in Falmouth Foreside. A controversial photo reignited interest in her disappearance in recent weeks.

Founded in 1926, Len Libby’s Chocolates was born in the kitchen of its founder, a polymath who taught Westbrook’s first son Rudy Vallee how to tickle the ivories. The chocolatier has just released everybody’s favorite gift–a mouthwatering rendering of the State of Maine, with islands of smaller bites in milk and dark chocolate. $16.

Rainy day at camp? Grab an opponent and absorb yourselves in a game of cribbage on one of these canoe-shaped boards ($25.95, LL Bean), reminiscent of boats crafted by the Penobscot Tribe.

Did you know? Competitive cribbage was legalized in Maine last year after changes to gambling laws made the traditional card and board game illegal in 2008.

There’s hope on the horizon for Maine’s ski bums. Saddleback Mountain Resort, which has been shuttered the past two winters, has just been bought by Australian developers, The Majella Group. Majella has quickly announced they can’t promise a Fall 2017 reopening. Here’s hoping.

Taking the Helm When he’s not at Disneyland, Walt Disney Co. CEO Bob Iger’s nirvana is aboard his Hinckley yacht, Aquarius, made at Hinckley’s boat yard in Northeast Harbor.“No matter where a Hinckley sails, she always remains tethered to the heritage and the heart of the Maine coast,” Iger wrote for Vanity Fair in 2014. If recent rumors are to be believed, Iger’s gaze is set on wider horizons. CNBC just reported that he’s considering a run for presidency in 2020. Hey, all bets are off these days.

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Concierge

1

Perfect Pairings

Eight years in the making, artist Linden Frederick’s latest exhibition, “Night Stories,” is set to stun the crowds at the Center for Maine Contemporary Art in Rockland, opening August 18. Fifteen acclaimed Maine writers will pen a story that brings each of Frederick’s evocative nighttime scenes to life. This compelling project began as collaboration between the Belfast-based painter and Pulitzer Prizewinner Richard Russo. Frederick’s paintings will be given a literary spin by award-winning authors like Lily King, Lois Lowry, Anthony Doerr, and Tess Gerritsen. 701-5005

Hot Spot

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Congress Square Park is the epicenter of the city’s Arts District, so it’s fitting that it has a dazzling roster of events for nearly every night of the summer. Practice zodiac yoga (August 24, August 30); watch swinging musical acts every Wednesday and Friday evening; or settle in with popcorn for the Sunday night film series.

courtesy the cmca “50 percent”; corey templeton; courtesy photos

Not The Usual Suspects

4

The Amazing Acro-cats pounce on Portland! This is not your ordinary circus act.

Join Tuna and the Rock Cats for a night of dazzling acrobatics St. Lawrence Arts Theater as the talented felines leap, dance, and even play music. This unusual circus has even been featured on The Late Show with Stephen Colbert! A portion of proceeds support the group’s mobile foster and rescue efforts, August 10. Tickets cost $24-$39. 775-5568

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nt o r f r e t a W R h ythms

Talk about a homecoming! To mark 25 years since alt-rock band Guster’s inception, the New England natives will host a weekend of music on the ocean for its legion of Maine fans. The weekend will kick off on August 11 with a concert on a ferry cruising through Casco Bay. On August 12, Guster will take to the stage of Thompson’s Point. Finish the weekend with a kayaking adventure from Portland to a quiet location in Casco Bay where Guster will perform an intimate acoustic set, August 13.

I’m so excited to host a getaway weekend here in my hometown,” says guitarist and vocalist Adam Gardner. “I love Portland and am proud to call it home. And an outdoor concert mid-August in Maine? I can’t think of anything better!” Tickets are $40 J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 2 7

P ortland a f t e r da r k

The Summer Doesn’t End

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Music

Aura, 121 Center St. Too Late The Hero, Aug. 4; Ralphie May, Aug. 13; Hari Kondabolu, Aug. 30; Thievery Corporation, Sept.

29. 772-8274 The Boothbay Harbor Opera House, 86 Townsend Ave., Boothbay.

Steep Canyon Rangers, Jul. 28; Cherish the Ladies, Jul. 29. 633-5159 Blue, 650 Congress St. Irish Sessions, every Wednesday. 774-4111.

Darling’s Waterfront Pavilion, 1 Railroad St.,

Bangor. OneRepublic, Aug. 5; Brantley Gilbert, Sept. 8.

358-9327 Eastern Promenade, Summer Community Concert Series, every Monday through Aug. 783-1585.

Franco Center, 46 Cedar St., Lewiston. Season Opening, Piano Concert, Aug. 24 783-1585.

Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Arlo Guthrie, Aug. 2; Jimmy Keys, Aug. 26.

646-4526 Maine Academy of Modern Music, 125 Presump-

2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

scot St. Junior Rock Camp, Aug. 14-25; Ultimate Rock Camp, Jul. 24-Aug. 4. 8993433 Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Orgelfest17, Aug. 1, 8, 15, 22; 842-0800 Maine State Pier Portland. Lifehouse & Switchfoot, Aug. 5; Dark Star Orchestra, Aug. 6; Gov’t Mule, Aug. 9; Goo Goo Dolls, Aug. 16; Old Crow Medecine Show, Aug. 22.

358-9327 One Longfellow Square, 181 State St. Hannah Daman and the Martelle Sister, Aug. 4; The Portland

Jazz Orchestra, Aug. 17; Tim Mercer, Aug. 19. 7611757 Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St. Dawn, Drive-By Truckers, Jul. 27; Donavon Frankenreiter, Aug. 11. 956-6000 Portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 Temple St. DAMN Gina and The Red Eye Flight Crew Summer Residency, every Mon. Jun.-Sept. The Maine Dead Project Summer Residency, every Wed. Jun.-Sept. Live Music Mon. through Sat. 805-0134 Portland Lobster Co.,180

Commercial St. Live music every evening as well as Saturday and Sunday lunches. Voted best patio & outdoor bar in Portland of 2017 and 2016. 775-2112 Slab, 25 Preble St. Slab Summer Music Series, every Wed.-Thu., through Sept. 16. 245-3088 State Theatre, 609 Congress St. Mary Chapin Carpenter, Aug. 04; Highly Suspect , Aug. 11; Grizzly Bear, Aug. 14; Bonobo, Aug. 25. 956-6000 Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd. The Press Gang, Jul. 21;

When The Sun Goes Down mer. Grand Budapest Hotel, Jul. 26; Get Out, Aug. 9; Hairspray, Aug. 23. 828-5600 Stonington Opera House, 1 Opera House Ln. The Passion of Joan of Arc, Aug. 17-27. 367-2788

Theater

Celebration Barn Theater, 190 Stock Farm Rd., South Paris. Mike Miclon’s The Early Evening Show, first Saturday in Aug., Sept. & Oct. 743-8452 City Theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. Steel Wizard of Oz, through Aug. 6.

282-084 Deertrees Theater, 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison.

Last Train to Nibroc, through Aug. 18; Indoor/ Outdoor, through Aug. 3.

583-6747

meaghan maurice; teens to trails

Fenix Theatre Company, at Deering Oaks Park, Portland. Three Sisters, through Aug. 5.

Slaid Cleaves, Jul. 29th.

935-7292

the first Friday of every month. 775-2900 ctn5.org

The 1932 Criterion Theater, 35 Cottage St., Bar Harbor. Danika Portz, Aug. 5; Brett Dennen, Aug. 11; Lazlo Gardony Jazz Trio, Aug. 18; Beau Soleil avec Michel Dusat, Aug. 27.

288-0829

Lincoln’s, 36 Market St. Laugh Shack comedy every Thursday.

Thompson’s Point, Portland. Glass Animals, Aug. 3; Alabama Shakes, Aug. 5.

Comedy

Community Television Network, 516 Congress St. Portland Playback Theater,

Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Mary Chapin Carpenter, Aug. 5-6; Secret Sisters, Aug. 24; Enter the Haggis, Aug. 31; Spencer Albee, Sept. 8. 935-7292

Film

Space Gallery, 538 Congress Street. Film series in partnership with Bayside Bowl, throughout the sum-

Freeport Community Players, 30 Freeport Performing Arts Center, Holbrook St., Freeport.

Seussical, Jul. 20-30; The Servant of Two Masters, Sept. 14-Oct. 1. 865-2220 Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 Route 9, Berwick.

Buddy: The Buddy Holly Story, Jul. 5-22; Steel Magnolias, through Aug. 12; The Fantasticks, Aug. 16-Sept. 2. 698-1807 Gaslight Theater, Winthrop St., Hallowell.

Baskerville, Aug. 18-27.

626-3698 Lakewood Theater, 75 Theater Rd., Madison. The Savannah Sipping Society, Aug. 3-12; Bullets Over Broadway, Aug. 17-26; Baskerville, Sept. 1-9; A

796 Main St., Monmouth.

My Father’s Dragon, through Aug. 17; Three Days of Rain, through Aug. 18; The Learned Ladies, through Aug. 20; Macbeth, through Aug. 18; Othello, through Aug. 19; Red Velvet, through Aug. 17; Peter and the Starcatcher, Sept.

14-24. 933-9999

Comedy of Tenors, Sept.

14-23. 474-7176 Maine State Ballet Theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. Don Quixote, Aug. 10-19. 781-7672 Maine State Music Theatre, Pickard Theater, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick.

Grease, through Aug. 5; Newsies, Aug. 9-26; Alice in Wonderland, Aug. 21.

725-8769 Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main St., Ogunquit. Ragtime, Aug. 2-26; Heartbreak Hotel, Aug. 30-Sept. 30; From Here to Eternity, Oct. 4-29. 646-5511 Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House. Calendar Girls, begins Sept. 8. 131 Main St. 942-3333 Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd., Standish.

Peter Pan, through Jul. 30; Disney Before Dark KIDS, Aug. 4-6; Once Upon This Island, Aug. 18-20; Dracula, Sept. 19-Oct. 15. 642-3743 Stonington Opera House, 1 Opera House Ln. Henry IV, Aug. 17-27. 367-2788 Theater at Monmouth,

Into the Wild

Waterville Opera House, 93 Main St. 3rd Flr., Waterville Rocks! Outdoor concert series, Jul. 28.

Waterville. 873-7000

Art

Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St., Lewiston.

Kate Gilmore: In Your Way, through Oct. 7, 786-6158 Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. The Ivory Mirror: The Art of Mortality in Renaissance Europe, through-Aug. 20. 725-3275 Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter St., Rockland. William Wegman; Reel to Real, through Oct 22; Screen: Pop Killed Culture, through Sept. 18; John Walker: From Seal

5

If you love Maine, chances are you love the great outdoors, too. Thompson’s Point will host the inaugural Life Happens Outside Festival on August 25-26, showcasing the state’s adventurous spirit. The event will feature six outdoor villages, over 40 vendors, interactive workshops, exhibits, gear demos, food trucks, live music, and, of course, beer. Proceeds benefit the Teens To Trails organization. Tickets cost $20-$40 for an adult, $10 for youth. 725-0800 J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 2 9

6

Point, through Oct 29.

Aug. 3-Sept. 2 772-2693

Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Marsden Hartley’s Maine, through Nov. 12. Brand-New & Terrific: Alex Katz in the 1950s, through Aug. 6; Graphic Matters: George Bellows & World War I, through Sept.

3. 859-5600

Maine Maritime Museum, 234 Washington St., Bath.

Through These Gates: Maine Shipyard Photography 1858-2016, through Sept. 24; See the Light: the Preservation of Midcoast Maine Lighthouses, May 27-Oct. 22. 443-1416

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland.

American Treasures From the Farnsworth, through Oct. 29; Celebrating Maine, Apr. 5-Oct. 29; Andrew Wyeth at 100, through Dec. 31. Marguerite Zorach--An Art-Filled Life, through Jan. ‘18. 596-6457 First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums. Aug. 4; Sept. 1.

Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St., Portland. Henry Isaacs Jul. 6-29. Colin Page

MECA, 522 Congress St. “American Genre: Contemporary Painting” Exhibition. through Sept.

15; Artist Lecture: Sonya Clark, Jul. 31 Ogunquit Museum of Art, 543 Shore Road, Ogunquit.

Gary Haven Smith stone sculpture on display in the garden, through Oct. 30.

688-4468 Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland.

Hans Hofmann, through Sept. 3; A New American Sculptor, 1914-1945, through Sept. 8; Child’s

Downeast Thunderdome

Following a hugely successful inaugural year, the Downeast Amtrak Great Dome Car returns to New England in 2017! The window-lined train car offers passengers panoramic views as it speeds from Brunswick to Wells. Why not make the trip from Portland to Old Orchard Beach on August 25, admiring Scarborough marshes as you glide past, to catch the fireworks display from the OOB Pier? Economy tickets ($6) allow access to the Dome Car on a first-come-first-served basis. 800-872-7245.

Play, through Dec. 17.

775-6148

489 Congress St. First Friday Fiction, Aug. 4; Sept. 1.

Literary Events

Print: A Bookstore, 273 Congress St. Margot Livesey, discusses her new novel , Mercury, and a new collection of essays, The

Longfellow Garden at Maine Historical Society,

Hidden Machinery, Aug.1; David Gessner discusses his new book, Ultimate Glory with Bill Roorbach, author of The Girl on the Lake, Aug. 8; Jessie Chaffee, author of Florence in Ecstasy and Lisa Carey,

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Experience

“Don’t delay...

NOW is Someday!”

UPCOMING FALL FOLIAGE DAY TOURS FROM PORTLAND Saturday, September 16 - New Hampshire Highland Games and Festival at Loon Mountain

author of The Stolen Child, discuss their latest works with Slice Magazine creative director, Celia Johnson, Aug. 16; Tom Perrotta discusses his new novel, Mrs. Fletcher, with Richard Russo, author of Trajectory, Aug. 24. 536-4778 Yarmouth Historical Society, 118 East Elm Street, Yarmouth. As part of the 2017 Lecture Series, Colin W. Sargent will read from and lead discussion on The Boston Castrato, Aug. 17.

846-6259 York Housing Authority, 4 Pine Grove Lane, York. A reading and discussion of The Boston Castrato with Colin W. Sargent, Sept. 21.

Thursday, October 5 - Fall Foliage Hobo Railroad Train Ride and Turkey Dinner Sunday, October 15 - New Hampshire Fall Foliage Special Train Tour from Meredith to Plymouth, NH

West Buxton Public Library, 34 River Road, Buxton. A reading and discussion of The Boston Castrato with Colin W. Sargent, Sept.

28. 727-5898.

Contact Nancy J. Dorrans, CTC Your Local Certified Travel Counseler for: • Your individual travel needs • As your group’s private travel coordinator • Or join her on her next international adventure...

Tasty Events

Aurora Provisions, 64 Pine St. Two to three free tastings each month on Tuesdays.

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Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St. Craft beer tasting every Fri. 956-7322 Leroux Kitchen, Portland. Free wine tastings on the 2nd Saturday of each month, 1-3 p.m.

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146 Middle Street Portland, ME 04101 207.772.2693 info@greenhutgalleries.com www.greenhutgalleries.com

Henry Isaacs July 6 - 29

Colin Page

August 3 - September 2

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 3 3

TheaTer aT monmouTh

Experience

season 48 | June 24 - sepT 24

Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St., Portland.

Music Brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun. Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St., Portland. Tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3:30-10:30; wines paired with small plates.

775-5652 Otherside Delicatessen, 164 Veranda St. Monthly wine tastings. 761-9650 Rosemont Markets, Portland and Yarmouth.

Two to three free tastings each month on Fridays. 774-8129 Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St. Tasting bar is open year-round for Maine-made wines and spirits. 761-8GIN

red VeLVeT

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by Lolita Chakrabarti directed by Jennifer Nelson

by Richard Greenberg directed by Kate Bergstrom

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Wine & Food Walks, Portland. Join Sommelier Erica Archer for a themed walk through a Portland neighborhood with wine and spirit tastings paired with delicious foods, every Sat. 619-4630

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FaLL shoW peTer and The sTarcaTcher

oTheLLo

Belfast Harbor Fest, 34 Commercial Street, Belfast. National Boat Building Challenge, Boat Show, Pancake Breakfast, 6th Annual Bug Run 5K, Live Bands and more family fun. Aug. 18-20.

by Rick Elice directed by Dawn McAndrews

by William Shakespeare directed by Catherine Weidner

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2017 SHOWS

PerForming arts

Season Opening, Piano Concert August 24, 7 p.m.

Piano Concert Series #1 September 22, 7 p.m.

A Monsta Bash - Gala & Concert October 28, 6 p.m.

Fiddle-icious

October 29, 2 p.m.

Piano Concert Series #2 November 3, 7 p.m.

Among My Souvenirs: A Connie Francis Tribute November 26, 2 p.m.

Denny Breau Christmas Concert December 3, 2 p.m.

Holiday In Lights

Mitch Thomas and Friends December 16, 7:30 p.m.

Weddings, Private Functions & sPecial events

Buccaneers Banquet A Pirate Dinner & Show

Look for it Spring 2018!

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Biddeford Boat Building Festival, 32 Main Street, Biddeford. Six participant teams will each build their own Compass Skiff, a 10-foot motorboat, over the course of the weekend.

The festival will also include nautical-themed exhibitors, local youth non-profits, a Friday evening event at Engine with special guests the Lowell Brothers, kids’ activities, food and music, and more, Sept. 16 & 17.

91 INDUSTRIAL PARK RD. SACO, ME

Claw Down, Newagen Seaside Inn, Cape The SHOWROOM that takes your breath away…WITH PRICES THAT LET YOU BREATHE Newagen. Enjoy lobster dishes prepared by some of Maine’s top chefs at the 5th Annual Beautifully Balanced. Surprisingly Simple.

Claw Down, Sept. 14. 633-2353 With its minimalist style and clean lines, the composed faucet Cross Insurance Center, 515 Main St., Bangor.

Bangor State Fair, Jul. 28-Aug. 6. 561-8300

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Cumberland Arts & Crafts Show, Cumberland Fairgrounds, 197 Blanchard Road. Over 200 talented Maine artisans will be exhibiting at one of Maine’s largest art and crafts shows, Aug. 11-14.

Live! On The Lake Music Festival! Snow Pond’s Bowl In The Pines, Messalonskee Lake, Sidney, A Lake Music & Food Truck Festival, featuring live acts and delicious street food, Aug. 19. 476-6976 Portland Chamber Music Festival, Hannaford Hall, University of Maine Portland campus. Season Finale: Songs and Serenades,

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1932 Criterion theatre Bar Harbor’s historic performing arts and movie house

BeauSoleil avec michael doucet 8/27

los lobos 9/15

Robert cray 10/3

35 Cottage St. bar harbor criteriontheatre.org 207-288-0829 J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 3 5

36th Annual

August 18-20, 2017

www.msharbor f e s t.org

3 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Experience

Aug. 11; Mendelssohn, Synchronisms & Elgar, Aug. 12; Family Concert, Aug. 13; Phantasy Quintet & Brahms Trio, Aug. 17. 320-0257 Paddle Battle, Nonantum Resort, Kennebunkport. Join the annual paddle race down the Kennebunk River. Followed by a barbeque and music on the resort’s lawn, Aug. 6 967-4050

Aug 15 Sept 10

–Compiled by Sarah Moore To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/

Marty Braun

courtesy portland science center

Portland Science Center, 68 Commercial Street, Maine Wharf, Portland. A National Geographic Exhibition, Real Pirates, open now.

THEATRE. July 20-30, 2017

THE FANTASTICKS

by Tom Jones & Harvey Schmidt

Aug 17-27, 2017

HENRY IV

by William Shakespeare

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25A Forest Ave, Portland, ME J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 3 7

southportmarine.com • 207-799-8191 14 Ocean St. South Portland, ME 04106 91 Bridge St. Salisbury, MA 01952

T

Clockwise from top left: ansyvan; dustin delano facebook; megan dunlap; Vladimir Wrangel; courtesy photo

he

at Preten e r G d

e r

Forget Chardonnay. Pete Dubuc and Amanda O’Brien are bringing a very different kind of wine to the table. The two Mainers will open Eighteen Twenty winery this summer in East Bayside, using locally grown rhubarb to produce “rha”–their flagship rhubarb wine. The brand name refers to the year rhubarb became available to buy on the public market in the U.S. And the taste? “It’s dry and acidic–like the fruit itself” says O’Brien. “As such, it goes nicely with fatty or sweet foods.

We like it with goose pâté, sweet-cured ham, goat cheese, Camembert, and even chocolatecovered blueberries.”

Overheating in the Old Port this summer? Head down to Gelato Fiasco and cool down Mainestyle with a serving of Allen’s Coffee Brandyflavored ice cream. The local liquor, also vilified as the Biddeford Martini or Bitch Whiskey, has reigned as the best-selling spirit in Maine for the past three decades. The Washington Post once wrote that “Allen’s Coffee Brandy is popular enough that a Bangor newspaperman once suggested putting it on the back of Maine’s state quarter.“ Put that in your Thermos.

For sale: A replica lighthouse in Durham, 10 miles from the coast, complete with a fourthfloor observatory deck ideal for watching imaginary ships sail past. Yours for $235,000.

By Blair B e st

A Furry Encounter

CNN, ESPN and Esquire recently went wild for a story featuring a local girl and a rabid raccoon. Rachel Borch of Hope, Maine, found herself in the spotlight after a violent encounter in the woods with a vicious raccoon that latched its teeth onto her hand, forcing the 21-year-old to drown the rabid animal in a nearby puddle. “A Maine story worthy of Hemingway. Finally!” quipped one online commenter.

There’s a one-in-fifty million chance of even spotting one, and yet three have been reportedly caught off the coast of Maine. Given its rarity, and the fact scientists can’t fully explain the reason for its beguiling dual-colored shell, the Harlequin lobster is a biological enigma.

“Just as bizarre as the asymmetric colored lobsters are the cases in which a lobster is male on one side and female on the other,” says Rick Wahle, Research Professor at the University of Maine School of Marine Sciences and the Darling Marine Center. According to The Lobster InContinued on next page J u ly / a u g u s t 2 0 1 7 3 9

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stitute and National Geographic, almost every Harlequin lobster is a hermaphrodite.

Is there something in the water that is causing this lobster anomaly?

I asked several marine researchers from all around the world at The International Lobster Biology Conference & Workshop in Portland what exactly is happening on the ocean floor to create these curiously colored crustaceans. To my surprise, the answer was difficult for them to pinpoint.

“The word ‘mosaic,’ when used in reference to lobsters, is still in the process of being scientifically defined,” says Jelle Atema, Associate Professor of Biology at Boston University. “These instances of so-called “bilateral gynandromorphy” give a clue as to what’s happening. Early in development, when the embryo is made up of only a few cells, an abnormal cell division occurs and the X and Y sex chromosomes don’t divide as they should. The two cell types determine different sexes in the same developing embryo. As the cells continue to divide normally thereafter, a split-sex individual results. It is likely that a similar process happens with chromosomes determining color, producing the split-color, or ‘Harlequin,’ lobster.”

O

ne such lobster plucked from the sea off the coast of England became a demi-celebrity recently for its defined color two-tone coloring, earning the name ‘Harley Quin’ (though the Joker was nowhere in sight). The crustacean has since become an attraction at the Scarborough Sea Life Centre in North Yorkshire, UK. “There have been unusual colored lobsters found in the past,” says Sea Life Centre spokesperson Todd German, “but Harley is remarkable because he has two colors separated by a near perfect straight line along the back of his carapace.”

Given what we now know, German would have been more correct to use the epicene pronoun when referring to Harley Quin.

Of the three found in Maine, one lives in captivity in the Gulf of Maine Research Institute in Portland, while another resides at the Huntsman Aquarium in Saint Andrews, New Brunswick. In recent weeks,, lobsterman Gerry Laine pulled a Harlequin lobster from the depths near Friendship, Maine.

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1912

2017 Festival Guide

Summer of Love You’re spoiled for choice during Maine’s packed summer festival season.

blue angels

Eyes on the Skies The Great State of Maine Air Show will swoop into Brunswick Airport on August 26-27, starring a daring display of talent by the US Navy Blue Angels in their the supersonic Hornet jet planes. Also defying gravity will be the Marine Corps’s C-130 Hercules airlifter, the Blue Angel’s support craft, known as “Fat Albert.”

“Fat Albert has been out of commission for most of the year, so the display in Maine will be one of few chances to see this surprisingly nimble four-turboprop plane fly,” says Herb Gillen, the event’s marketing director.

Specially trained performers will also demonstrate their exceeding ability while flying rare and historical aircrafts overhead. There will be numerous vendors as well as a Kid’s Play Zone to ensure the whole family is entertained. The show is held biannually, so be sure to check it out while you can.

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 4 3

Hello, Sailor!

Portland’s Naval history takes center stage thanks to Navy Week, August 21-27. Sway in the salty breeze to the tunes of the Navy Band, performing in Fort Allen Gazebo, Aug. 21; experience U.S. Navy STEM Day at the Portland Science Center, Aug. 24; and sailors from the will USS Constitution will visit the city. (See our story on the oldest commissioned warship afloat “The One That Got Away,” page 54). Plus: Explosive Ordnance Disposal technicians, Navy Divers, aircrew from Navy Helicopter Mine Countermeasures Squadron 15,the U.S. Navy’s Sea Perch and Navy History and Heritage Command will visit the Boys and Girls Club in Portland, August 22 & 24 and Camp Hammond, August 21.

Sink into a seat at Hadlock Field for Navy Night baseball, Aug. 25. The Navy Band will set the tune, and rumor has that the first pitch will be cast by a very special guest. Sea Dogs general manager Chris Cameron tells us there’s a bomb-diffusing robot with “the capability to deliver the first pitch.” Sounds intriguing–and a little scary. “Service men always go above and beyond the call of duty,” says Cameron. “We’re proud to showcase that in Portland.”

Fairs

Acton Fair, Route 109, Acton. Live entertainment, 4-H animal events, horse and oxen pulling, tractor pull, midway, vintage car show, King Arthur flour baking competition, Miss Acton Fair pageant, women’s skillet toss, woodsmen’s day of competition, and of course a pig scramble, Aug. 24-27.

Allagash Wilderness Waterway, Town of Allagash. Displays, exhibitions, guest speakers, bateau rides and a bean supper, Aug. 20.

Bangor State Fair, Cross Insurance Ctr., 515 Main St., Bangor. 4-H animal shows, demolition derby, Frisbee-catching dog show, July 28-Aug.6.

Blue Hill Fair, 233 Ellsworth Rd. Animals, live music, helicopter rides, fireworks, gardening, cooking, and crafts. Contests include largest squash and best blueberry pie, Aug. 31-Sept.

4. 374-3701 Boothbay Harbor Fest, Boothbay Harbor. A 10 day immersion into the food, culture, arts and music of Boothbay Harbor, Sept. 1-10.

Clinton Lions Fair, 1450 Bangor Rd. Rides, food, harness racing, and family fun, Sept.

7-10.

Cumberland County Fair, Cumberland Fairgrounds. Exhibition halls, midway, livestock, animal pulls, demolition derby, barbecue, and pumpkin and squash weigh-offs, Sept. 24-30.

4 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Casco Days, Casco Village. Road race, parade, fireworks and more! Come enjoy the activities and entertainment abound, July 27-29.

Eliot Festival Days,various locations around town. 5K road race, crafts, food booths, pancake breakfast, parade, and fireworks, Sept. 30.

Farmington Fair. Livestock, midway, harness racing, and animal pulling, Sept. 17-23.

“Maine’s Blue Ribbon Classic” since 1851.

Livestock, pig scramble, midway rides, sheepdog trials, a woodsmen’s field day of timberrelated competitions, live music, magicians, storytelling, and puppets, Oct. 1-8. 935-3268.

Harmony Free Fair, Route 154. Every Labor Day weekend since 1947, with a parade, horse show, rides, zombie run, sheepdog demonstration, and animal barn, Sept. 1-4.

Monmouth Fair,79 Academy Rd. Since 1907, live bands and performances, horse and steer pulling, barrel racing, bicycle raffle, sheepdog demonstrations, and pig scramble, Aug. 2-5.

Northern Maine Fair and Music Festival, Presque Isle. Annually since 1855, the fair features both modern entertainment– live music and rides–along with traditional events, such as 4-H competitions, Jul. 28-Aug.5.

Oxford County Fair, 68 Pottle Road. Livestock shows, horse pulling, pig scramble, petting zoo, ATV and lawnmower pulls, traditional farming and crafting demon-

strations, live music, and food, Sept. 13-16.

Piscataquis Valley Fair, Fairview Ave., DoverFoxcroft. Celebrate the 128th anniversary with homemade ice cream, milking parlor, agricultural exhibits, demolition derby, midway, and an AC/DC tribute, Aug. 24-27. 564-3689.

Skowhegan State Fair, Constitution Ave. The oldest continuously run agricultural fair in the nation features truck pulls, demolition derbies, harness racing, grizzly bear show, pig scramble, midway, agricultural exhibits, laser tag, magic show, and live music, Aug. 10-19.

474-2947 Southern Maine Steampunk Fair, Brick Store Museum, 117 Main Street, Kennebunk. At Maine’s only steampunk fair, you’ll discover purveyors of Victorian-futuristic art and crafts; wandering performers; a visit with Queen Victoria; and take part in Victorian lawn games, Aug. 5. 985-4802 Springfield Fair, Rte. 169. Laser tag, agricultural event, monster trucks, and crafts, Sept.

1-4. 738-4134 Topsham Fair, Valhalla Dr. Sheep herding, blueberry pie contest, live bluegrass music, agricultural show, demolition derby, fireworks, and truck pulls, Aug. 6-13. 729-1943.

Union Fair, Union Fairgrounds. Blueberry

2017 Festival Guide festival, crowning of the Blueberry Queen, talent show, fireworks, dock dogs competition, live music, bubblegum-blowing competition, and fireworks, Aug. 19-26.

Windsor Fair, Windsor Fairgrounds. A tradition since 1888 encompassing 275 acres, with livestock, a pumpkin contest, harness racing, woodsman day, and barrel racing, Aug. 27Sept. 4. Ridge Rd. York Days, Short Sands Beach. Concerts, crafts, softball tournament, and other events all week, Aug. 4-5.

Food Festivals

Acadia’s Oktoberfest & Food Festival, 20 Main St., Southwest Harbor. Wine and cheese tasting, Maine-based brewfest, locally sourced food, and crafts, Oct. 6-7.

Apple Pumpkin Festival, Livermore Falls.

Food, music, kids’ activities, crafts, Sept. 30.

897-6755.

Cornish Apple Festival, 17 Maple St., Cornish. 5k road race, craft and produce vendors, apple-pie baking competition, food booths with apple and non-apple offerings, and live entertainment, Sept. 30.

Damariscotta Pumpkinfest and Regatta.

Pinkham’s Plantation, 431 Biscay Rd. Pumpkinboat regatta and derby, pumpkin catapulting, giant pumpkin art, pumpkin-pie eating, and parade, Oct. 6-9.

Frenchboro Lobster Festival, Bass Harbor Ferry Terminal. Live music, raffles, and lobster, Aug. 12. 334-2974.

Harvestfest, Short Sands Beach, York. Traditional fall harvest food, kids activities, crafts, and music, Oct. 14.

Harvest on the Harbor, Ocean Gateway, Portland. 9th annual food and wine festival (21+ only). Chef demonstrations, lobster chef competition, Brews & Blues BBQ, tastng events, Oct. 16-24.

enhancing relationships since 1992

Oceanfront Lodging, Dining & Gatherings Marine Room, Ocean Terrace and The Porch Live Music thursday, friday & saturday 5-7pm Dining noon - 9:30 pm

photos courtesy the navy and the sea dogs

Machias Wild Blueberry Festival.

Dedication to Maine’s berry of choice is done up in syrup, a pie-eating contest, tours of a blueberry farm, blueberry quilt raffle, and a blueberry musical, Aug. 18-20.

Maine Harvest Festival, Cross Insurance Ctr., Bangor. A delicious celebration of Maine’s small farms and their bounty,Nov. 11-12.

Maine Lakes Brew Fest, Point Sebago Beach.

The area’s largest annual sampling event and Oktoberfest features Maine-made beers, micro-brews, and wine; with food, live music, and the Point Sebago Craft Fair, Sept. 30.

Maine Lobster Festival, Rockland’s Harbor Park. Starring 20,000 pounds of Maine lobster, with a parade, cooking contests, blues and rock bands, marine biology education, and a feast with a view of Penobscot Bay, Aug. 2-6.

(800) 576-7512.

207-967-3331

thecolonyhotel.com

140 Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport, ME

(Continued on page 100)

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J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 4 7

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Heroes

Meet the home-grown stars of the U.S. Navy who, even in uniform, wear Maine on their sleeves.

In t ervie ws By Olivi a Gunn

Makayla Van Blarcom, 18, Cryptology Technician-In-Training here are you?

I’m in Pensacola, Florida. I just finished boot camp. I should be hearing where my first deployment will be any day now.

ther’s stories about the Navy. He was an EN (Engineman). He talked a lot about traveling. I always wanted to travel while still getting an education. And college is really expensive these days.

What will your specialty be?

Well, it’s actually pretty top secret–but I can say it will involve signals analysis.

Where did you grow up in Maine?

In the Thomaston/St. George area. I went to Oceanside High School in Rockland.

What inspired you to enlist right out of high school?

Well, I grew up listening to my grandfa-

What set Maine apart during your childhood?

The nature, ocean, and the region’s agriculture. I feel so lucky to have grown up there.

Every day I miss being in Maine.

Take us closer.

We spent every summer at a campground in Appleton with my family. The entire summer! We’d go fishing, hiking–we

Commander Paul N. Rumery, 57, Chaplain Corps, USN Where did you grow up in Maine?

Right here in Portland. I was born in Maine Medical Center. I’m a graduate from Deering High School–go Rams! I’m the oldest of five children and the only one to go into the military.

courtesy photos

What inspired you to serve?

My dad was in the Air Force–that really influenced me. I enlisted into the Marine Corps shortly after high school. While in the Reserves, I went to college and on to a seminary school.

There was a Navy Chaplain recruiter there, and I knew I still had some military in my blood.

What interested you in the Chaplain’s role?

I grew up in a family of faith. We attended Stroudwater Baptist Church on Congress. I was influenced by my mentor, who’d been in the Signal Corps during World War II. I was haunted by the photographs he took in the concentration camps and the devastation that took place across Europe. I remember listening intently to his experiences. As a person of faith, while I was in the Marine Corps I attended chapels and learned that the Navy provided Chaplains to the Navy, Marine Corps, and Coast Guard. The beautiful thing is that in our First Amendment we protect the right to express our faith.

Take me back to your childhood in Maine, what are the

spent so much of our time on the water.

My first job in Maine was actually clamming for my grandfather!

Biggest differences between Florida and Maine?

There’s no sea breeze like Maine’s.

details you remember?

I think of a very close-knit family and a great quality of life. I loved being right next to the ocean. We’d go down to Casco Bay and ride the ferry. After high school, I traveled on the Caribe–the ferry that went from Portland to Nova Scotia–and I remember thinking, “Wow, this is really neat. There’s just something about being out at sea.”

When you’ve been away on assignment, what makes you homesick?

The view from Munjoy Hill. Real Maine lobster with warm butter and a drizzle of vinegar. The salt air. The quality of life. I’ve traveled around the world–I’ve been down range to Iraq twice and Afghanistan once as well as many other deployments–but when I get on the highway and see that sign Welcome to Maine: The Way Life Should Be, it always makes me smile. That’s the quality of life I’m referring to.

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 4 9

Family Business Meet the Wonder Women of the Miller Family.

N

avy Week is old home week for the Miller family of Clifton, Maine, 16 miles east of Bangor. Mom and Dad fell in love while in uniform, and both daughters have served with distinction as Naval Officers.

Mom is Carolyn L. Miller, a Maine native who convinced her husband Dennis to retire here after both completed careers in the Navy. “I’m from Sherman, Maine,” she says. “Grew up here.

“We were electronics technicians,” she says of herself and Dennis–experts in their field. “We met in Guam, and then served tours together in Japan and Florida” before coming back here. “I retired as a senior chief, and Dennis retired as a master chief.”

The allure of the sea, the excitement of world travel, and the honor of protecting our country was a frequent subject at dinner across the decades. Carolyn and Dennis could tell their daughters Sara and Denise listened carefully. But could anyone have guessed that both their daughters would become Naval Officers?

“You could never know anything like that,” Carolyn says. “They just always liked the lifestyle we had. Always took an interest in it.”

The Two Sisters Launch First it was Sara who was nominated by Sen. Susan Collins for an appointment to the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland. “We enlisted,” Carolyn says, so she and Dennis were fascinated to see Sara’s career take off.

“Sara majored in English at the Academy,” Carolyn says. “She’s a fabulous writer.” After she graduated in 2008 and earned her commission as an Ensign, Sara became a Surface Warfare Officer and a Navy Lieu5 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Kirsten Conner, 20, Navy Aircrewman, USN ake us home.

How’s that plan going now?

I grew up in Wales, Maine, surrounded by family. We spent a lot of time camping with my grandparents at Bottle Lake. My aunt owns Fish Bones in Lewiston, and I worked there in high school.

I’m serving my first enlistment with the Helicopter Mine Countermeasures Squadron 15 (HM-15), which lasts six years, and then I plan to go to college to study Mortuary Science.

What attracted you to the Navy?

Will you come back to Maine?

Growing up in Maine, I was never far from the water. My father had been in the Army, and when I didn’t have a plan for after high school and the Navy called one day, I went down to learn more.

Yes. My husband is there. My family is there. Looking back, I was so lucky to grow up in Maine. It wasn’t until I moved away that I really started to miss it. I grew up just wanting to leave.

tenant, serving in combatants like those made at Bath Iron Works on the shores of the Kennebec River–a dream that was a natural as it was extraordinary. “Her husband, a fellow Naval Academy grad, is a Marine Corps helicopter pilot,” Carolyn says. “They’re currently stationed in North Carolina. He flies the CH-53,” the massive helicopter that’s the largest in the Fleet.

Talk about good vibrations.

“My parents’ stories and love for the Navy had an impact on my decision to apply for a ROTC scholarship, but that career path was certainly never pushed onto me.”

Denise’s Sense of Snow Now it was Denise’s turn. “My sister’s last ship was the aircraft carrier USS Ronald Reagan,” Denise says. “I majored in Mechanical Engineering at Boston University.”

When she felt a need for speed after ROTC

The Miller family from left. Master Chief Dennis Miller; Lieutenant Sara Everett; Lieutenant Denise Miller; and Senior Chief Carolyn Miller.

–LT Denise Miller

Heroes What made you reconsider us?

The overall dynamic of the place. And the people–they are so hard working. Living in the South has been a big eye-opener. There’s a lot more crime and poverty. Growing up in New England, I always felt so safe.

When do you get to come back next?

I’m getting ready for my first deployment in 2018, I’ll be headed to Bahrain for six months, so I’m trying to take leave in September.

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graduation, she entered Navy Flight School in Pensacola, Florida.

courtesy photos

H

er alma mater was impressed. “Denise is soaring,” wrote Bostonia magazine when she won her wings of gold, “and on her way to joining the elite ranks of Naval aviators.” After multi-engine training, she became a Navy P-3 Orion pilot. The P-3 is exactly the same Navy aircraft that served legendary tours of duty at Brunswick Naval Air Station. Did these old friends visible everywhere in Maine’s skies exert a powerful influence on Denise’s childhood? Or was it just fate?

“I was aware of Naval Air Station Brunswick growing up,” but she never saw Orion in her future–though it’s the long-range aircraft she’s flying right now. As for craving a home-field advantage, she says, “I’ve never landed at Brunswick before, but I have landed at Bangor Airport. We were coming home from deployment in 2014, and I was able to get word to my parents. They stood at the fence and saw me land. I was able to spend the night with them, too, and that was fun.”

Today, “Denise is stationed at Naval Air Station Patuxent River, Maryland, right now,” Carolyn says, “though she was just out in Colorado, flying in something interesting. It was called Operation SnowEx.” The operation involved NASA forestry scientists; “more than 100 scientists from universities and agencies across the United States, Europe, and Canada; and the Naval Research Laboratories; Denise

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Heroes

“S

nowEx was one of my favorite career moments,” Denise says.

“NASA has their own P-3s, but they weren’t available for this project, so the squadron that I am currently in (VXS-1) was able to install NASA’s sensors onto our aircraft, and we flew with their scientists and engineers on board. It was a rare oppor-

“Growing up, I always enjoyed listening to my parents’ stories about all the places they’d traveled.”

Brian Carpenter, 38, Leading Chief Petty Officer of Electrical Division here did you grow up in Maine?

I was the youngest of six kids in Lewiston. My father was the Commander of the Lewiston Police Department. I lettered and was all-state in both hockey and football. My favorite sport was hockey, and I loved the Lewiston/St. Dom’s rivalry.

Maine is the perfect garden to plant the seeds of adventure. What was your childhood like?

I was always outside. Always. It was only ‘when the street lights come on’ that we were supposed to go home. Other than that, get out of the house! I was always in the woods.

What year did you join, and what inspired you?

In 1999, I was at Plymouth State University to play hockey, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the academic side. I knew I needed to do something else. Both my brother and brother-in-law were in the Navy, so I enlisted.

What is your rating?

I am the Leading Chief Petty Officer of Electrical Division on DDG-1000, the USS Zumwalt, the most technologically sophisticated war ship in the world. I’m responsible for the upkeep of electrical components and power management of 78 megawatts of power. I was made an Honor Recruit by my peers and was then selected to move onto the Ceremonial Guard (Presidential Honor Guard).

What do you miss most about Maine?

Oh, lobster, for sure! When I was stationed

tunity for a pilot in the Navy. And the mission itself was fascinating. We tested different instruments and their ability to measure snow depth over various types of terrain.”

This was critically important research for humanity, not just the military. “Snow is critical to society,” Dr. Edward Kim, NASA’s SnowEx project scientist, has told the Naval Research Laboratory about the study. The Laboratory’s online publication, which features Denise as one of the pilots, 5 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

in Maine for the Zumwalt, I was always teaching the guys how to crack lobsters and doing fish bakes at my house. That was pretty neat.

points out: “More than one-sixth of the world’s population relies on seasonal snow and glaciers for water. As much as three quarters of the water used in the western United States comes from snow.” ust as snow melt transforms water supply, does a family’s love for serving its country create a legacy of ‘doing their bit’? Does one person (let alone two parents!) in uniform deepen the commitment of future generations?

What’s been your favorite port outside of Maine so far?

There are unique things to see everywhere you go. Italy is my favorite place. I love Italy. But the biggest culture shock was in the Middle East. I liked experiencing the place, but it was different. Maine is like its own little world, and you don’t always experience different cultures. In the Navy, I’ve met so many different people of different races, backgrounds, creeds. I wish people could see how we act and treat each other in the military and bring that out to the local community. n One of the inflight technicians in Denise Miller’s P-3 squadron may have the answer. He serves proudly as an enlisted electronics expert (so he could certainly talk shop with Denise’s parents). He weighed in on SnowEx to the Naval Research Lab: “‘It’s incredible working with NASA on a large, scientific project,’ said Naval Air Crewman (Avionics) 1st Class Rodney Hynes....

‘I’m going to go home and tell my kids all about it.’”

–Colin W. Sargent

from top: courtesy photo; aaron rosa

and her fellow pilots in the Navy’s Scientific Development Squadron One (VXS-1) flew over the Rocky Mountains, conducting surveys with sophisticated sensors to get a 21st century sense of snowfall, water runoff, and packed snow and its effects on drinking water.

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Legend s

What could have been: Portland Harbor imagined with the USS Constitution in its waters. The ship currently resides in Boston (inset).

Once upon a time, the Navy offered the USS Constitution to Portland as our flagship…

P

ortland has deep-draft bragging rights for most sincerely loving the frigate USS Constitution, built in 1797. While Boston keeps her hostage today, did you know that in the Summer of 1931, Portland had a chance to have her as our city’s mascot ship? Think of the tourist dollars. How could something as iconic as the Constitution have eluded our grasp?

Blithe Spirit In his Portland Monthly feature “When Did

5 4 p o r t l a n d m on t h ly m a g a z i n e

From Sta ff & Wire Re ports

Portland Miss the Boat?” historian Herb Adams makes our city’s ties vivid. To begin with, “Her first famous commander, Commodore Edward Preble, USN, was a proud and prickly native Portlander. And her last commander under the sail was Capt. Louis J. Gulliver, USN, Portland High School class of 1901, who brought her into Portland Harbor in 1931 as part of her last cruise around the country she helped create.”

On top of that, Old Ironsides was ‘locally sourced.’ Her masts were pines “cut in

the forests of Unity, Maine.”

Captain of My Heart Local hero “Preble sailed Constitution to glory in the Barbary Wars against North Africa in 1801-1805, America’s longest foreign conflict until Vietnam. He served with such distinction he was offered an appointment but as Secretary of the Navy but turned it down, instead building a mansion so capacious that it was turned into a hotel after his death.” For over a century the

The One that

meaghan maurice; inset: Courtesy USS Constitution Museum

Got Away

Preble House reigned over Monument Square.

In her dotage, a ghost ship in a Navy inventory dominated by the Great White Fleet, “Old Ironsides rotted as a famous but underfunded relic until the 1920s, when the Navy actually proposed sinking her for target practice.”

Down on her luck but still striking, the great lady was “saved by a national children’s pennies campaign,” according to Adams. “Over $600,000 in private funds was raised and Congress approved an additional expenditure of $300,000 to complete the project,” historian Sharon Cummings re-

coasts of the US from 1931-1934 (with a little help from the mine-sweeper Grebe).”

veals in her blog, “Some Old News.”

As for who supervised repairs as part of the ultimate fixer-upper, Adams pinpoints “she was rescued with antique Maine tools

by LT John Lord, USN, of Bath… A restored Constitution, under command of Capt. Louis Gulliver, USN, visited both

Festival Fever Here in Portland, “Old Ironsides entered the harbor “beneath the welcoming arc of a rainbow that appeared in the east as she passed Portland Head Light,” reported the Press Herald on July, 18, 1931. More than 65,000 visitors toured Preble’s flagship at the Maine State Pier during her six-day stay.

Portland celebrated Capt. Gulliver and Old Ironsides’ arrival with a rousing banquet at the Eastland Hotel on July, 21, 1931. It was here that Maine’s U.S. Senator Frederick Hale brought the hall roaring to its feet with J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 5 5

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The USS Constitution graces Portland Harbor in 1931.

the pledge to make Portland the permanent home of Preble’s most famous flagship.”

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that–had not Democratic President Franklin Delano Roosevelt intervened in 1934, temporarily claiming the Constitution for a berth in the Potomac. For the tug of war that followed details are murky, but she weathered the war in Boston… with Portland’s challenge for her largely forgotten. There she sits today, like Portland Head Light (built 1791) a reminder of

In 1925, schoolchildren across the country were encouraged to donate their pennies to the Navy to repair the wrecked frigate. Once restored, would Constitution adorn the Forest City?

the Republic’s first proud years.

But she was within our grasp in 1931; indeed, there was speculation that she wouldn’t leave port.”

Fast-forward to Navy Week in Portland, she’s absolutely here in spirit. Here’s a toast to the oldest commissioned ship in the United States Navy and the city who was her first love. n

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Peril on the Sea

The USS Fitzgerald, built at Bath Iron Works, suffers a deadly collision in Japan that hits close to home.

O

n a clear early morning just weeks ago, US Navy destroyer USS Fitzgerald (DDG-62), was traveling from her home port in Yokosuka with her American crew when she was blindsided by a collision with the ACX Crystal, a Philippine merchant container ship. Almost three times the size of the destroyer–weighing in at over 29,000 tons– the Crystal struck Fitzgerald with her bow, penetrating the starboard side of the Navy ship below her waterline. The collision claimed the lives of seven Navy sailors.

The news sent shock waves throughout America–felt keenly in Bath, where the USS

By Bla ir Best

Fitzgerald was built and launched by Bath Iron Works in 1994. The Daily Mail places the ship’s cost at $1.4 billion. At Byrnes’ Irish Pub, located near to the shipyard, locals and boat builders have been discussing the event at length. “Everyone is saying how sad it is,” a bartender tells us. “Regulars have asked active Navy sailors what they think happened. They just say they’re not allowed to comment.”

“It’s a tragedy,” says Nathan Gould, Harbormaster of Bath. “There hasn’t yet been an official report about the incident. I know that the U.S. Coast Guard, the U.S. military, and the Japanese Coast Guard are all doing different investigations. At this point,

it’s hard to say anything conclusive.”

What about the fate of the ship? “We don’t know if the Navy will decide to bring Fitzgerald back to Bath for repairs,” Gould says. “It’s a possibility since this is where she was built.

Or they may decide to just scrap the ship. But I can tell you the way the ship was designed, and the way in which the crew was trained, are what saved more loss of life. Fitzgerald was designed well, with different compartments that the crew was able to close off in order to stop further flooding. What do I think happened? I’ve read many online theories, but there’s really no way of knowing unless you were there.” n J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 5 9

6 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Roots

Over There, Over Here Penobscot Indian elder Charles Shay’s heroism on Normandy Beach is celebrated on both sides of the Atlantic.

from left: Marie-Pascale Legrand; First Division Museum at Cantigny

W

By Haley S nyde r

hen Charles Norman Shay, 93, landed on Omaha Beach, Normandy, he was just 19.

That day, he held the lives of dozens of other young men in his hands. More than bringing the Maine mystique to the coast of France on June 6, 1944, Shay was riding the waves of history on D-Day as a combat medic in the frontline infantry platoon, charging into one of the largest seaborne landings ever seen.

Born in 1924 on the Indian Island Reservation, Shay is member of the Penobscot tribe and a direct descendant of Jean-Vincent d'Abbadie de Saint-Castin, the French military officer and Abenaki chief immortalized in Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s poem The Baron of St. Castine, and for whom the seaport town of Castine is named. Shay’s life echoes with that of his ancestor–both are inexorably linked to France and the Penobscot tribes by their roles in historic battles. Now, both have even been immortalized in verse.

In 2007, Shay, as Penobscot elder, returned for the first time to the Normandy coast and several other World War II sites where he’d served as a young combat medic, accompanied by anthropologists Harold

Prins and Bunny McBride.

“When I returned to Omaha Beach, it was difficult for me to believe that 63 years earlier, I had landed in the first wave of the invading troops,” Shay says.

“So many had to die or were wounded, and I remained unscathed. I thought I must have had a guiding angel. When I looked across the beaches all those years later, I could still hear the screams and cries of the wounded and dying begging for help. I did what I could to relieve their pain and misery.”

In recognition of his efforts, Shay was

“I performed an Indian smoke ceremony [on Omaha Beach]. I believe I can take up contact with the souls of the men who are still wandering about on the beaches of Normandy, lost.”

–Charles Shay

given the Silver Star for his service. Later in 2007, he was awarded the Légion d’Honneur, France’s highest decoration for valor, by then-President Nicolas Sarkozy.

For Shay, retirement was never on the cards. He’s spent the past decade traveling back and forth to France in an effort to strengthen Penobscot-French ties while writing his autobiography, Project Omaha Beach: The Life and Military Service of a Penobscot Indian Elder. He also initiated a Maine state law that marks June 21 as Native American Veterans Day, honoring the 25,000 North American Indian veterans who fought in World War II. This heroic Mainer’s tireless exploits have gained him some fame on both sides of the Atlantic. Caen resident Marie Legrand was so inspired by Shay’s story and J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 6 1

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Roots

from left: dominique luce; herald Prins and Bunny Mcbride

his visits to the Normandy coast that she campaigned to establish a memorial park in Shay’s name.

The Charles Shay Memorial Park in Saint Laurent-sur-Mer, overlooking the same beach Shay liberated over 70 years ago, opened in June. Shay attended the opening ceremony in person, accompa-

nied by Chief Kirk Francis of the Penobscot Indian Nation, Prins, McBride, and singer/songwriter Lisa Redfern. Redfern, an award-winning recording artist from Maine, was asked to write a song to mark the event. Inspired by the stories of his life, she wrote Full Circle Fire: The Ballad of Charles Shay. Redfern performed the ballad oceanside, surrounded by members of the Penobscot tribe, veterans, and soldiers from American and French forces.

“I was honored to tell part of his life story in a song. I first sang it for Charles the night we met,” Lisa Redfern says. “It was moving to see how it touched him.”

D

uring the proceedings, Shay performed his own personal tribute to his fallen brothers. “I performed an Indian smoke ceremony [on Omaha Beach],” he says. “I believe I can take up contact with the souls of the men who are still wandering about on the beaches of Normandy, lost.”

Today, on a bluff overlooking the ocean on France’s northern coast, the Charles Shay Memorial Park gazes out over the

Above: Lisa Redfern performs “Full Circle Fire” at the Charles Shay Memorial Park.

wide stretch of Omaha Beach to the sea beyond. The space is marked by a blue granite turtle carved by Shay’s nephew, Penobscot Indian artist Tim Shay, and a single plaque.

The inscription reads: “In honor of Charles Norman Shay and in grateful memory of the 500 American and Canadian Indian soldiers who participated in Operation Neptune for the liberation of Normandy on D-Day, June 6th, 1944.” n

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Wat e rfr ont

Ships 2 Shore Yachtspotters’ alert! Keep your eyes peeled for these sleek hulls floating into port this summer.

kim smith; “dunkirk” warner bros. pictures

A

mong the multitude of vessels swarming Maine’s waters during the summer, some make us stop and stare. Consider the Atlantide, for instance, a 122-foot classic motor yacht that, if you’re lucky enough, you’ll spot cruising the coastline this summer. The Atlantide is a lesson in elegance and artful design. But she’s more than just a pretty hull. This vagrant from across the Pond has lived many lives.

Designed in 1930 by English Naval Architect Alfred Mylne, designer of the Royal Yacht Britannia, Atlantide–then known as the Caleta–started life as a British racing yacht.

But that’s just the preface to her story. In 1939, she was drafted for service in the Royal Navy.

The following year, she faced rough seas, divebombers, and artillery fire during the evacua-

From Sta ff & Wire Re ports

Atlantide made two evacuation trips during the Battle of Dunkirk in 1940. Christopher Nolan’s cinematic adaptation of the battle, Dunkirk, is now showing in theaters.

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 6 5

Waterfron t tion of British troops at the Battle of Dunkirk during World War II, during which she made an astounding two rescue trips across the English Channel. Ever since, Atlantide belonged to an organization called the “Association of Dunkirk Little Ships,” of which few boats remain in operation.

The perilous evacuation has now been adapted for the silver screen. Dunkirk, directed

by Christopher Nolan, is currently in theaters.

6 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

From top: The Little Ships of Dunkirk are reincarnated in Dunkirk (2017); Atlantide stars alongside Jennifer Jones in Tender is the Night (1962); Atlantide and the legendary Maltese Falcon.

Right and inset: The interior was meticulously renovated by Tom Perkins in 1990.

from top: “dunkirk” warner bros. pictures; Tender as the night movie; mega yacht News; indian harbor yacht club (2)

F

rom warship to screen star, Atlantide’s life in the latter part of the 20th century took a glamorous turn. The yacht spent decades cruising the Mediterranean while under the ownership of Italian aristocracy. Good looks can get you far in showbusiness, and in 1962, Atlantide appeared in the film adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night. Glimpses of the yacht’s deck can be spotted in scenes during love scenes between Jennifer Jones and Cesar Danova, according to Mega Yacht News.

Post-Hollywood, Atlantide had caught the eye of venture capitalist and super yacht aficionado Tom Perkins. Alongside Perkins’s legendary racing yacht, the Maltese Falcon, Atlantide was the crown jewel of his yacht collection until 2012, when she was caught the eye of Richard and Leslie Fairbanks of Blue Hill.

“I was browsing boats for sale online in the middle of the night when I spotted Atlantide,” Leslie says. “It was love at first sight. [Richard] wasn’t happy abut being woken up–until he saw her. We love those 1930s lines and angles. And that was before we’d even heard her story! We’re so proud of Atlantide. We fly the Dunkirk Little Ships flag when we take her out.”

In what was perhaps an oversight, the production team behind the Dunkirk movie didn’t request that Atlantide reprise her role for an on-screen adaptation of The Battle of Dunkirk. Nonetheless–“We had a party celebrate when the movie premiered,” Leslie says. “We took Atlantide out and toasted to her.”

The Fairbanks intend to keep Atlantide at their home in Blue Hill for the foreseeable future. We think she’ll feel right at home here.

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I

with open-email answers on the gossip site Page Six, according to Boston Magazine: “I don’t own a yacht. Never have,” Cuban writes. “The guy who owns the boat tells everyone that it’s mine. It’s so crazy. I got a letter from someone thanking me because the ship’s doctor had saved this person with CPR. I’ve had people email me asking if they can come aboard. Of course,

I always say yes. I DON’T OWN A YACHT.” Roger that. The real owner is Eddie Lampert, CEO of Sears department store, Boston Magazine continues. But there comes a point when you have to admit, Mark, if you keep chartering it, you own it. Fountainhead’s home port is in Miami, where she’s tied up to a skyscraper and tour boats identify her as Cuban’s.

Cocktails

“I took this shot from my daughter’s balcony when I visited her in Miami,” Blackwood says of Cocktails. “So imagine my excitement when I saw the same yacht floating into my world last summer.” –Jill Blackwood Spotted off Cape Elizabeth

Toast of the Town

Sleek and dashing, Cocktails was built in 2004 for auto-dealer Gene Reed, who named her Chevy Toy. But she’s nobody’s toy.

The 157-foot super yacht was bought and refitted in 2012 by Tom Murphy, founder of Coastal Construction and father of former Florida State Representative Patrick Murphy. Murphy, Jr. received a backlash in the media after he celebrated Fourth of July 2016 in Nantucket aboard Cocktails while Florida was in the midst of a toxic algae outbreak. Cocktails was put on sale for $18.5 million later that year.

6 8 p o r t l a n d m o nt h ly m a g a z i n e

clockwise from top left: jill blackwood; the next miami; businessinsider; jill blackwood (2)

Isn’t That… magine looking up from Shark Tank to see Fountainhead, Mark Cuban’s absurdly luxurious yacht sliding past your living room window as she heads for the Portland skyline…

It’s just another day for Jill Blackwood, the retired former principal of Riverton Elementary School who’s turned her hobby of yacht-spotting into a high art. She snapped this picture as the 287-foot super yacht maneuvered to her mooring off Bug Light Park.

Cuban, the billionaire Dallas Mavericks owner and co-shark on CNBC’s Shark Tank, is often asked about his extravagant floating empire, which features a basketball court on the stern. The thing is, Cuban says, it’s not exactly his boat. Here he is

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Calling all Yachtspotters! Please send photos and captions of all visiting yachts you see this summer to portlandmagazine@gmail.com or tag us on Twitter @PortlandMEMag. n

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T he Arts

Nahum Littlefield’s ship figurehead carving shop on Central Wharf, now Chandler’s Wharf, in Portland, 1880. Posing in the loft of the busy Littlefield shop, Nahum Littlefield (1833-1916) is likely the dark-haired man to the left in the loft doorway, caught by the camera between two worlds: the end of the wooden ship era and the dawn of steel ships.

There was a time when no good ship sailed from Casco Bay without a figurehead beneath her bow.

The finest came from Portland’s Nahum Littlefield, a master of this lost American art.

Left: The Maine Maritime Museum houses the oldest known figurehead in Maine, the Clarissa Ann (1824).

By Her b Adams

uring the mid-19th century, when Portland was at the helm of the wooden shipbuilding trade, at least half a dozen ship carvers worked the Portland waterfront, cutting boards for vessels from Freeport to Kennebunk. While the Patten, McLellan, and Sewall shipyards in Bath were hives of industrious engineering, the ship carver’s work more closely resembled an art form. The craftsmen would spend

their days fashioning stern boards and tailboards; elegant scrollwork inscribed with the vessel’s name to be mounted at the ship’s bow; and 20-foot gilded eagles, wings outspread above banners emblazoned with the vessel’s homeport. But of these works, it was the figurehead that symbolized the personality, even the life, of the ship itself.

Ornate, imposing figures cut from Maine timber dashed across the seas in the form of exotic ladies; mermaids and mermen; or colorfully carved figures of Lincoln or Columbus, flung to far-away places by a J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 7 3

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Above: Are ship figureheads having a 21stcentury renaissance? Two have appeared on the walls of Exchange Street’s hottest new bar, Blyth & Burrows. For owner Joshua Miranda, they were an essential aspect of the design. “The bar is named for sea captains Samuel Blyth and William Burrows (buried in the East End Cemetery). The two figureheads represent each captain’s ship, but I secretly think of them as their wives. I bought them from Portland Architectural Salvage on Preble Street.”

young nation eager to capture the commerce of the world. Some ship owners even had their own images carved and mounted onto the front of their vessel. Talk about showboating.

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7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

hough he never went to sea himself, Littlefield was born in 1833 with saltwater in his veins. The son of two generations of ship carvers, his grandparents had lived beside the harbor in Falmouth until it was burned to

meaghan maurice

This Summer

Master of his Craft Among these carvers, Portland’s Nahum Littlefield could teach a master class. From his hand came “Neptunes, female figures with flowing robes” as well as “figures of the gods and goddesses,” said admiring newspapers, “Saints, life-size representations of ship owners, and sweethearts.” A city of fantastic forms, “white and gilded figures…all done in wood.”

T h e A rt s A Case of Mistaken Identity

“A lake…is the earth’s eye.”

I

n 1874, Littlefield was given the commission of his career: a magnificent nine-foot Neptune to gaze stoically out to sea from beneath the bow of the Ocean King (illustrated on the first page), the largest ship afloat in its day and the pride of Kennebunk. The four-masted ship may have left her home port in style, but her career ended at the bottom of Coos Bay, Oregon, in 1887, taking Littlefield’s Neptune with her.

Maine’s hopes ignited in 1967 when word arose that a likely Neptune figurehead was on display at the Mariners’ Museum in Virginia. In November of that year, Down East magazine published a story claiming that the artifact was indeed Littlefield’s creation. “According to our records, the family of the Ocean King’s captain, Nathaniel Lord Thompson, visited in 1956,” says Cindi Verser, Collections Management Specialist at the Mariners’ Museum, when asked about the possible connection. “They identified [a figurehead in the museum’s collection] to the curator at the time as the same one Littlefield had carved for the ship in 1874.”

But don’t get too excited. “We have compared photos of the ship with the figurehead in our collection and found significant differences between the two,” says Verser. “Therefore, it is our opinion that the Neptune figurehead did not come from the Ocean King.” The rumor mill is a powerful machine. Littlefield’s Neptune still remains unaccounted for, and, according to Verser, most likely still resides at the bottom of the ocean with its ship.

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the ground by the British in 1775. As if in defiance, Littlefield never ventured far from the waterfront, and his carving shops always faced the ocean.

Lost Imagery The Civil War and the advent of iron ships ended Portland’s golden era of wooden boat building–and with it, figureheads and the men who made them. Smithsonian experts estimate that fewer than 1,000 Americanmade figureheads exist today. Most rest beneath the waves.

When Littlefield passed on in June 1916, aged 83, his obituaries remembered him as Portland’s Fire Chief (1877-1881 and 1883), who fought the infamous blaze of July 4, 1866. His career as an artist and craftsman J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 7 5

In the Frame

Of all Littlefield’s contemporaries, perhaps Edward S. Griffin (1833-1928) led the longest and most colorful career. At 15, he began carving piano cases in his father’s waterfront shop and didn’t set down his paintbrush until the time of his death, aged 94.

Griffin’s wooden figurehead dragons, merchants, monsters, and mermaids graced almost 60 years of Casco Bay sailing ships.

His fine finished interior works filled Portland’s civic buildings (mostly lost in the Portland Great Fire of July 4, 1866), and his carved crucifixes and altar works filled churches from Boston to Cuba.

As wooden ship work faded, Griffin turned to clay and paintbrush. His carved wood models of the Portland Fireman (1898, Central Fire Station) and Capt. Jacob S. Winslow Memorial (1902, Evergreen Cemetery) were later cut in granite and still stand today.

As his classic woodcarver’s art faded in the days of steam and steel, Griffin never lost faith in the power of art. “If I had my life to live over again, I would be a sculptor,” he reflected in 1920, still in his Fore Street studio.

Griffin’s son was the famed American impressionist Walter Griffin, whose paintings of the Maine scene fill galleries from Portland to Paris.

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ortlanders can still see evidence of Littlefield’s art in his hometown. The Portland Fire Museum on Spring Street houses an eight-foot gilded eagle, wings illustriously spread, which once adorned Littlefield’s own fire truck. Below it stands a polished chair carved from the elm tree under which Lafayette once spoke while visiting Portland in 1825. Both are relics of a lost art and artist, symbols of the ever-changing America in which Nahum Littlefield lived. n

Photography: Justine Johnson

on the waterfront is only a fleeting memory in the fast-industrializing 20th century. “A ship’s carver by trade,” noted the Evening Express. “Considered by many to be an artist in that line of business.”

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Jailhouse Rocks Built in 1869, the historic York County Jail is for sale. Again.

staff photo

T

From Sta ff & Wi re R eport s

he Shawshank Redemption was shot in Ohio.

But it could have been filmed right here at home in Maine.

The cells are here, iron doors clanging into eternity. There’s even a quarters for the warden’s family, just like in the Stephen King movie, with wallpaper and polished ash floors. Sure, it’s not open-concept. But all roads lead to your purchasing the former York County Jail in the town of Alfred, York’s county seat, at 8 Court Street on Route 111.

The asking price is $250,000, or roughly ten times what the seller, Michael Kaplan of Kaplan 8 LLC, paid for it in 2001 as part of a bidding process conducted by the town.

“There were ladies’ cells” as well as men’s, “on the second floor at the end.

That’s why the doors are solid,” Kaplan says. “There was a revolt in the prison” that signalled the end of its serJ u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 7 9

road warr i o r One of the unsuccessful bidders in 2001 was Tom Joyall of Kennebunk. “I bid $56,000. I was going to renovate it to be a jailhouse salvage. It was a terrible time. It would be great if someone were to put some money into it. It’s a beautiful old building.”

A

Details, Details

s for famous inmates, how about an axe murderer? In her story “Old Alfred Jail Saw Inmates Come and Go,” Sharon Cummings writes, “The brick jail was just nearing completion in March 1873 when Louis H. F. Wagner was arrested for the famous double murder at Smuttynose Island,” on the Isles of Shoals... [He was] the first inmate of the new jail.”

When Wagner escaped from the jail roughly two months into his stay, the New York Times sent a reporter up to Maine to check us all out. Not exactly Sing Sing: “As I approached the building, prisoners could be heard laughing and singing inside... I entered, and a dozen prisoners flocked about me. They are all at perfect liberty to roam about the corridors. They have no handcuffs and, seemingly, no restraint.”

Two other inmates had escaped with Wagner. “Wagner put on quite a performance for the guards, convincing them that he was feeling quite ill and planned to confine himself to bed all evening. By the time the guards took their posts at 9 p.m., Wagner was already gone. He had fashioned the likeness of a man huddled under the blankets on his cot with a short broom and a stool from his cell. It was hours before the guards noticed that the “man” wasn’t moving and when they did, they were reluctant to call the warden for fear the murderer would make fools of them again.

“The prisoners had made their way through a scuttle in the jail, up through a ventilator and onto the roof with the intention of lowering themselves down a rope of blanket strips. Noticing a skylight into the warden’s quarters, they decided instead to remove a pane of glass and reach in to unlock the large window. Once inside, they quietly made their way down 8 0 p o r t l a n d monthly maga z in e

the stairs and walked right out the door.

“Wagner was recaptured by a farmer in Farmington, N.H., three days later. Unaware of the $500 reward on his head, he had been driven by hunger to the farmer’s kitchen door.

“The axe-murderer was transferred to the Maine State Prison in Thomaston, where he was later hanged for his crimes.”

Cummings writes that inmates escaped from the York County jail a number of times.

“The last escape from the old brick jail took place in September of 1974. The familiar story appeared in the Lewiston Journal. “Four young inmates escaped from York County Jail Friday night. The men apparently forced a section of the ceiling and climbed out through an air duct to the roof and then used blankets to lower themselves to the ground.”

Regarding the “riot” that closed the jail, Cummings reports: “The death of an epileptic inmate from untreated seizures on September 27, 1975, was the catalyst for a riot that closed the old brick jailhouse for good. The 15 inmates ripped out sinks, bunks and electrical wiring in every cell, causing significant damage. Forty law enforcement officers, including state police and firefighters with hoses, quelled the riot. All the inmates were transferred to the Cumberland County Jail and the cell block at the Alfred jail was closed by order of the court.

“The old jailhouse was deemed unfit for prisoner habitation but it was used for a number of years as York County’s first homeless shelter before being auctioned...”

Town Pers p ective B y B l a i r Best …

Code Enforcement Officer Jim Allaire has

the inside track on the jail’s future potential.

“I know [Kaplan] is anxious to sell it,” Allaire says. “He’s owned it for a long time, and he lives far away.” [Now there’s an Alfred perspective of the ‘faraway’ Portland metropolis!] “I think he’s tired of running down to show someone the building who only wants to grow marijuana in it, which you can’t do.

It’s a beautiful old building with a great lot and a full septic system. Although it is located in the center village, which is difficult for businesses. A lot of businesses can’t legally run out of the center village because of town codes. However, that is changing soon.

That’s going to be defined as a ‘mixed-use’ area, so hopefully he’ll have a better chance of selling it to a business that way.”

The tax assessor’s office values the property at “$179,200.” Kaplan’s winning bid in 2001was “$2,501.”

vice to the county.

Since then, it’s slowly deteriorated, though its septic system is still capable of handling 2,100 gallons a day. Kaplan has made cosmetic, heating-system, and electrical improvements to the lower level facing Route 111 and had some tenants here over the years, but no one’s here just now.

He loves the building and has entertained countless dreams from possible purchasers, beyond his own, because many prospects just like to try the place on.

“Dunkin’ Donuts looked at the land (over three acres), but the town wouldn’t agree to its having a drive-through,” he says.

Other dreams, some of which have involved tenants, include “boatbuilders, a distressed sign company, Jailhouse Antiques, a photo studio, law offices, restaurants, a gift shop.”

People have been offering Kaplan ideas “forever. Longer than that.”

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staff photo

Y

ou could “remove the cells” if you like.

“Above are beautiful arched windows.

All the light, morning or afternoon, would flow in.”

This jail has good bones. “All of these pieces of granite” are priceless.

During the summer, it’s easy to imagine a craft brewery taking over the building. Slammer Glamour. Iron Clang. Shawshank Lager. Better still, what a film school this place would make, with a film festival.

At night, the sound of crickets.

Asked if he’s motivated, Kaplan replies, “Wicked.”

Taxes are $2,728.52 n J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 8 1

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T

by claire z. cramer

he diverse stretch of Forest Avenue between Woodford’s and Morrill’s corners has long been a destination for authentic ethnic cuisines. There you’ll find two dedicated markets, Ahram and Sindbad (or Sinbad or Sindibad, depending on which sign you’re looking at on the storefront windows), and a bakery/café–all owned by enterprising Iraqi immigrants. But as Middle Eastern food soars in popularity, you can now discover delicious Levantine-themed locales in East Bayside and the Old Port.

meaghan maurice

Mid East Feast

When did traditional foods of the Middle East become so popular here?

Hummus, perhaps the Middle East’s most popular culinary import, is served with fresh house-made pita at Evo.

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Chef Matt Ginn and sous-chef Hagai Bernstein (left) give the dishes a Levantine flair at Evo. Dishes include wild salmon with smoked yoghurt and cherry tomatoes and hake with tahini, zucchini, roasted fennel, and cous-cous (below).

BUT FIRST, LUNCH tart at Ameera Bread at 845 Forest Avenue for a quick bite. On the front window there’s a sign that reads, “Iraqis–Americans: Together we stand to protect our home–America.”

Inside the little cafe, large rounds of justbaked pita and samoon loaves are stacking up in the open kitchen. A column of glistening shawarma meat sizzles on the stove.

The counter displays trays of spinach pies and pastry triangles, sambusas, filled with beef, chicken, or veggie mixtures. The first bite into a beef triangle is a delicious burst of subtle herb and spice.

The tasty little treat is just $1.99.

Ameera Bread is owned by Ahmed Abbas. His nephew Ryan Abdul manages Ameera’s other location in the Public Market House on Monument Square, which opened last year.

“My uncle bought the shop on Forest Avenue in 2014,” Ab-

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dul says. “It was already a bakery.” Now it’s quite a bit more. “We have hummus plus baba ganoush, tabbouleh, the sambusas, kebabs, shawarma, the spinach pies, even desserts.”

The two locations attract very different clienteles. “In the Market House, I rarely see anyone from the Middle East. But on Forest Avenue, there’s a giant community,”

Ryan says. “My uncle gives discounts for refugees. Lots of Iraqis go there, and Somalis. The Somalis love our sambusas.”

At the Wednesday Farmer’s Market in Monument Square, we catch up with Ryan and Ahmed in front of the Market House.

The sambusas have already sold out. When asked about the company’s name, Ahmed says, “Ameera is my daughter–she is now four. It means ‘Princess.’”

On the phone later, I ask Ryan, who is 20 years old and came here in 2013 from Baghdad, how he accounts for Portland’s love affair with Middle Eastern food.

“Americans love ethnic foods. Iraqis see it as an advantage. We just give it to them.”

That’s it?

“It’s not that hard to figure out,” he says, with the cheerful confidence of youth.

OLD PORT PLAYERS At Evo, the glass jewel box of a res-

h u n gry eye

meaghan maurice

Ameera Bread serves traditional breads along with “hummus, baba ganoush, tabbouleh, sambusas, kebabs, shawarma, spinach pies, and desserts” from two locations in Portland.

taurant in the Hyatt Place Portland on Fore Street, chef Matt Ginn comes at the trend from a different angle. He believes New England and the Eastern Mediterranean have a lot in common.

“In the summertime, outside of lemon and olives, we can get pretty much all our Mediterranean-type produce and seafood, lamb, and other local meats right here,” he says. “Beautiful little eggplant varieties, tomatoes, cucumbers, even kousa squash–a real Mediterranean summer squash.”

Before coming to Evo, “I staged at Oleana in Cambridge”–one of chef and cookbook author Ana Sortun’s renowned Middle Eastern-influenced restaurants—“to see how New England does Eastern Mediterranean.”

Evo’s menu glitters with Eastern riffs– spanakopita and grape leaves, a falafel wrap, an Israeli egg dish called shakshuka, and sides like tabbouleh and Israeli salad.

An order of chickpea fries arrives as a stack of what look like thick French fries but are

Evo’s menu glitters with Eastern riffs– spanakopita and grape leaves, sides like tabbouleh and Israeli salad.” actually silken logs made of tender chickpea semolina garnished with harissa yogurt and dabs of red pepper puree.

T

he open kitchen is small, but Ginn’s team makes efficient use of it. Hagai Bernstein, the young Israeli sous-

chef, clears the stainless work table every morning and bakes all the breads for the day. Bernstein delivers a side dish containing a dab of labneh (yogurt cheese) indented with a well of za’atar-seasoned olive oil.

This is flanked by one of his puffed pita rounds and a chopped salad of tomato, cucumber, and red onion seasoned with sumac.

At Tiqa, the pan-Mediterraneanthemed restaurant on Commercial Street in the Marriott Hotel, Deen Haleem, co-owner with his wife, Carol Mitchell, sees Middle Eastern food today as mainstream. Its popularity grows “as more and more people are getting exposed to it. And it leans on vegetarian and vegan dishes,” though there are nevertheless plenty of meat options.

“Hummus has been in the supermarket for years. You can find plenty of young people who have no idea it’s ethnic food,” he says.

Tiqa’s menu includes Lebanese fried cauliflower with herbed labneh, Syrian hummus, Turkish kefta (meatballs), a LeJ u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 8 5

hungry eye

Baharat on Anderson Street serves a mix of classic and conceptual Middle Eastern fare.

The restaurant coined the hashtag #MidEastBayside.

Clayton Norris and Jenna Friedman of Baharat.

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Turks. And lots of Lebanese! We’ve been really blessed.”

EAST BAYSIDE t’s just really excellent and healthy food,” says Jenna Friedman, who owns Baharat restaurant with Clayton Norris on Anderson Street in East Bayside. Friedman and Norris’s food truck, C.N. Shawarma, was an Eastern Promenade fixture in summers past, from which they sold juicy, spicy chicken shawarma in gyro wraps.

Neither Norris nor Friedman grew up with the cuisine. “We learned to love this food from living in bigger cities like New York, where it’s everywhere,” says Friedman. Baharat’s menu offers the “Shawarmageddon,” described as “a favorite from the food truck, a plus-sized sandwich with chicken, falafel, house fries, and all the sauce.” “We get all our spices from Gryffon Ridge [the organic spice merchants in Dresden] and from the Sindibad Market.”

A mezze plate of falafel balls fragrant with mint and cilantro is served with tzatziki dip and spicy, bright roasted-red-

“I

“Hummus has been in the supermarket for years. You can find plenty of young people who have no idea it’s ethnic food.”

–Deen Haleem pepper sauce. It’s just the thing with a local craft draft at cocktail hour with Baharat’s “garage door” panels rolled up to let in the summer breeze.

TAKEOUT OASIS Tara Rancourt and Scott Ryan brought extensive restaurant experience in Boston, New York, and D.C. to Portland in 2015.

A serendipitous meeting with Paul Farrell, who owns Union Bagel on Cumberland Avenue, resulted in Falafel Underground @

meaghan maurice

vantine mezze platter, and a pan-Mediterranean kabob platter. “The most common street food kabobs in Iraq are called Tiqa,” Haleem says. Each dish on Tiqa’s menu is tagged with its country or region of origin.

Haleem is Palestinian; his family immigrated to Chicago when he was eight. He ended up in Portland “when I met Carol,” he says. “She’s Lebanese, from Lewiston– there’s a huge Lebanese community there.”

Tiqa’s location on the Old Port and in a hotel means patrons come from far and wide. “We get customers from all over Africa and the Middle East–Moroccans,

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Family-Owned Old World Butcher Shop & Market

Union Bagel Co. debuting in the spring of 2016. It operates as a takeout falafel and small-plates shop four evenings a week, opening at 4 p.m. after the bagel shop closes. Look for the sidewalk sign that reads “Keep Calm And Falafel On.”

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he food is vegetarian, organic, homemade, and local where possible. “This cuisine leans naturally to vegetarian and vegan cuisine,” says Ryan. The menu is based around falafel sandwiches on their homemade pita bread. The sides include stuffed grape leaves, shaved and dressed cabbage, shredded carrot sal-

from left: Courtesy TIQA; sarah moore

Tiqa specializes in pan-Mediterrenean dishes and traditional kabob recipes.

h u n gry eye

Falafel Mafia may have just made its debut on Portland’s food truck scene, but Cameron and Dylan Gardner are no newcomers to Middle Eastern cuisine. The brothers grew up making and selling pita and falafel with their father at Commonground Festival. Left: Try “The Godfather” sandwich ($9). “It doesn’t suck even a little bit,” Dylan vows.

Latitude 43° 45’ 1”

“We get folks from all parts of the city, folks from other countries.”

Right now is the perfect time to try Levantine cuisine without leaving city limits.

You can feast on the delicious dishes and celebrate the cultural traditions that it represents, content in the knowledge that adventure deepens with great taste. n

is irresistibly hot and spicy. There’s also a mild, Israeli-style tahini sauce and a brightyellow Iraqi-style sauce made of fresh mango pickled by Ryan and seasoned with turmeric and fenugreek. The hot, fruity taste is a revelation.

Like the owners of Baharat, Rancourt and Ryan didn’t grow up with these foods.

from classic to contemporary from maine boiled lobster to Maine craft beer You can find it all here at

amazing experience!

Where all great things come together for one

Come and enjoy live music on our deck, great food and drinks, spectacular views, and breathtaking sunsets. Visit our website for the weekly entertainment and concert schedule.

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Photos: Lucas Sharpe, Maine Imaging (top right)

ad, and Israeli pickles.

“Our falafels are the traditional Israeli shape,” says Ryan as he places a small puckshaped disk on a plate with dabs of three sauces. “You find different shapes throughout the Middle East. This is zhug.” He points to the sauce made bright green with cilantro, parsley, and jalapeño. The taste

Saturday, August 12, 7–9:30pm.

cookslobster.com Longitude -69° 59’ 32” J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 8 9

EST 1919

Everyday Sommelier

“If one winery conjures up images of other worldly greatness it has to be Chateau Y’quem (pictured), founded in 1593.”

Uncorked

In the spirit of in vino veritas, our resident sommelier answers questions you’ve always wanted to ask about wine.

By Ralph Hersom

from top: Chateau d’Yquem winery - france; MIGUEL GARCIA SAAVED

Does wine really get better with age?

Y

es! Especially when it pertains to high-quality wines like the ones featured here. Wines costing more than $25 generally get better with age because time under cork allows the fruit, tannins, and acidity to combine and form tertiary aromas that become more developed in the bottle. Drinking wines like this immediately upon release would not do them justice.

How long should I allow the wine to age?

This differs on many levels, depending on grape type, vintage, and the drinker’s preference. For example, if you prefer a fruitier wine, drink it on the younger side. If you like more advanced and complex flavors, let it age.

Does price matter?

There’s no way around it. Finer wines cost

more money. In terms of the quality of the grapes and production, there’s no denying that the best wines carry the bigger price tags. Think of it as a comparison between wool and cashmere. Both will keep you warm, but there’s a level of quality and luxury that can’t be replicated in the cheaper alternative.

What is the general difference between Old World and New World wines?

Quite simply, Old World wines come from some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world, such as France, Italy, and Germany. New World wines are those from the USA, South America, Australia, and New Zealand. I often remark that if you want the perfect wine for a meal, drink an Old World wine (Italian food with Italian wine, French food with French wine, and so on). But if you want

a “meal in a glass,” drink a New World wine–these are generally higher in alcohol as well as being more fruit-forward and more drinkable. One isn’t necessarily better than the other; it just comes down to personal preference.

What type of wines could we find in your cellar?

I’m a lover of Old World wines for their complexity of flavor and the way they pair perfectly with the right foods. My collection averages around 750 bottles, depending upon how much I’m drinking at the time! This collection is split between Champagne, White and Red Burgundy, German and Alsatian Rieslings, Bordeaux, various dessert wines from around the world, and some aged California Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.

What would you suggest for those who’d like to explore J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 9 1

Everyday Sommelier I recommend 2014 Domaine Heritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Villages by the famed Meursault winemaker Dominique Lafon for a delicious 100-percent Chardonnay that doesn’t break the bank. For a showstopping red, try the 100-percent Pinot Noir Chorey-Les-Beaune “Les Bons Ores” from Edmond Cornu. Both can be found for approximately $30 and can be cellared for up to five years.

Tell us your five favorite fine wines.

1) I recently enjoyed a glass of the 2007 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet by Louis Carillon. Produced on a miniscule vineyard measuring just a quarter acre, Louis Carillon makes some of the most soughtafter Chardonnay in the world. And you’ve got to appreciate their playful naming of vineyard sites–this appellation translates as “Welcome Bastard of Montrachet!” This particular bottle of 100-percent Chardonnay is beautifully balanced and extremely nuanced with a lasting finish. A bottle rings in at over $400.

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2) The 1990 JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese is considered one of the greats of German winemaking. This well-aged wine offers notes of petrol and stone fruits with a hint of sweetness and lots of acidity. A bottle costs around $150.

3) From the famed Grand Cru vine-

yard Clos Vougeot comes the 2002 MeoCamuzet Clos Vougeot. This supremely elegant and balanced 100-percent Pinot Noir boasts hints of red and black fruits in the nose and a firm and structured mouthfeel on the palate. A real pleasure to drink! All that pleasure doesn’t come cheap, however– a bottle costs over $300.

4) One of the finest wines from Italy’s famed Piedmont region and the historic Rabaja vineyard is the 1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja. Half a century old, the 100-percent Nebbiolo has taken on an almost ethereal quality. Wonderful aromas of earth and truffles, structured tannins, and outstanding balance shine through on each sip. This wine was a real treat to taste! You’ll

pay around $250 per bottle.

5) If one winery conjures up images of other worldly greatness it has to be Chateau Y’quem, founded in 1593. The 1983 Chateau d’Yquem is a rare dessert wine made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that’s produced in only the best years, when the esteemed noble rot known as Botrytis Cinerea wreaks havoc on the vineyard, shriveling the grapes into raisins and thus concentrating their sugars. These wines can age for over 100 years, and I’ve had the pleasure of tasting vintages dating back to 1921. With its flavors of quince and apricot, this wine is no slouch! It costs a pretty penny, too. Expect to pay over $400 per bottle. n Ralph Hersom is a sommelier and owner of RRH Cellars wine consultancy. He was formerly the Cellarmaster at Windows On The World and wine director of Le Cirque 2000 in NYC.

megan dunlap

quality Old World wines on a budget?

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L’Esprit de L’Escalier

Bright Soul A true friendship transcends time and circumstance.

Meaghan maurice

D

arrell was that guy in high school nobody noticed. A lone figure in a white shirt, black pants, pocket pen protector–a stand-in for one of the Blues Brothers. If he were noticed, it was only to be bullied to the point that he ran from the building at the end of the day.

At that time, I’d stand there, an invisible observer, watching him escape. By graduation, Darrell had been diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. I didn’t see Darrell for a long time after high school, 10 years in fact, when the inevitable high school reunion sent our classmates spinning back into each other’s orbits. Darrell attended in his wheelchair, sitting on the edge of the festivities, still an outsider. Being an introvert, I joined him. It was the perfect class reunion hideout. We chatted, exchanged addresses, and

By Rhea Côté Robbi ns

began corresponding regularly, writing letters as people once did before the advent of email. We wrote back and forth for 10 years or more. He lived in a full-time care facility—a bright spirit, shining from his hospital bed.

Let me make an analogy, if I may.

Franco-American culture, long bullied and cast aside, has often caused people to run away from themselves or from the environment where they are mistreated and misunderstood. A kind of perpetual highschool environment of isolation and selfdoubt. Darrell was of Franco-American heritage and suffered from a degenerative disease, but he transcended the obstacles in his path. Darrell persisted in being who he was–despite harassment or his illness.

This willingness to be present and accept-

ing of who you are takes enormous courage and determination. Often, we of the Franco-American heritage deny ourselves the opportunity to know our true selves.

We miss out on the best part of our lives, unwilling to know our own strengths.

Darrell was different. He inspired others, blooming from the confines of his wheelchair or hospital bed for a long, long time. He was also a writer, writing stories until he could no longer hold a pen, then later dictating them out loud. If one is to measure friends, Darrell was a very good friend to me. He was dealt a difficult hand, but he never faltered in his potential to give back. A true inspiration. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains,’ and editor of Heliotrope-French Heritage Women Create.

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Dining Guide Anthony’s Italian Kitchen, offers homemade Italian cooking using the freshest ingredients, featuring favorites such as pizza, pasta,and sandwiches. Voted “Best in Portland” for three years. Dinein and catering services on offer. Beer and wine available. Open 11-8 Mon. through Sat. 151 Middle St #5, Portland; and new location Cumberland County Courthouse, 205 Newbury St. anthonysitaliankitchen.com, 774-8668.

Barnacle Billy’s, known for luxury lobster, steamed clams, large lusty drinks, barbecued chicken, homemade clam chowder & of course, the lobster roll & lobster stew. Features extensive indoor & sundeck seating where guests can enjoy both the beauty of the harbor & the ocean beyond. Perkins Cove, Ogunquit, 646-5575, barnbilly.com

Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511.

Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights.

Open 7 days, 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com.

DiMillo’s Now through December, relax and enjoy Head Chef Melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. Every day, she offers something new and delicious. Try our Early Dinner Specials, Monday-Friday or our wonderful Port Side Lounge, Portland’s getaway for grown-ups. Happy Hour includes special menu Monday-Friday, 4-7 p.m. Open daily at 11 a.m., Commercial St., Old Port. Always FREE PARKING while aboard. 772-2216.

J’s Oyster is a premier seafood destination and locals’ favorite with indoor and outdoor waterfront seating on one of Portland’s scenic piers. Established in 1977, J’s offers classic favorites and friendly service. Coastal Living claimed J’s one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” Find us on Facebook. 772-4828

Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves Asian cuisine with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese, or hibachi tables. Private party rooms accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items prepared before your table. Family friendly; open Mon.Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. to 11 p.m., Sat. 1 p.m-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com.

Hurricane Restaurant New England cuisine with an international twist. Local pro9 6 p or t l a n d monthly maga z ine

Restaurant Review

Fresh Latitudes You’ll come for the view, but you’ll return for the food.

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patio and a boat-packed marina. The bay beckons with a glimpse of Munjoy Hill in the distance. A second dining room upstairs has its own deck as well. The modern box of varnished wood, industrial-chic siding, and windows is designed so everyone has a great seat.

An appetizer of Korean beef ribs ($11) gleams with dark, concentrated sweet/savory sauce, and the meat (served boneless, a bonus) is gloriously tender. The accompanying grated carrot salad tossed in an Asianstyle peanut sauce is a nice counterpoint.

Local mussels surprise and delight the moment we dip into their rich broth in the bowl. There’s shaved fresh fennel in the wine-and-shallot beurre blanc, cleverly accented with caramelized nuggets of smoky andouille sausage. With this great combination, Chef Brown has made a common shellfish starter

into something to return for.

Choosing entrees isn’t easy among favorites like scallops, rack of lamb, and halibut. But our choice of Lobster Scampi ($29) with house-made pasta in a lemon, shallot, and wine sauce with a bit of romano feels like hitting the jackpot.

Tender, sweet pieces of tail, knuckle, and claw meat are heaped in a nest of silken, wide tagliatelle noodles. Everything sings with the bright lemony sauce–the dish manages to be gloriously rich and delicate at the same time. A scattering of micro-greens and scallion rings adds just the right peppery accent. Here again, the kitchen has turned the familiar into something truly special.

Caprese-grilled sirloin steak ($32) arrives topped with nicely grilled grape tomatoes and a grill-charred mantle of fresh mozzarella. It’s absolutely delicious, and so are the ac-

From left: Meaghan Maurice; Kelsey Gray(4)

pring Point is a hot spot again!

North 43, the shiny new restaurant with non-stop windows at Port Harbor Marine, succeeds right out of the gate.

Two experienced restaurateurs have combined forces to create a sleek but cozy hang-out. Co-owners Laura Argitis, who also owns the Old Port Sea Grill, and chef Stephanie Brown from the former Sea Grass Bistro in Yarmouth have managed to create an atmosphere in which first dates, girls’ nights out, couples, and families of all ages feel welcome.

From a short but smart list of wines by the glass we choose a tart, grassy Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa and smooth Steele Cuvee Chardonnay from California (each $11). These are served in pretty, tall goblets etched with “43°” to signify the north latitude coordinate on the globe for which the place is named.

Our window seat overlooks a crowded

By Claire Z. Cramer

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Dining Guide duce and seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list, in-house dessert chef. Nurturing the seacoast palate for over 25 years. Good restaurants come and go. Great restaurants get better and better. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available. Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport, Maine. 207-9679111, hurricanerestaurant.com Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. Tue.Sat. starting at 5 p.m. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

ADVENTURE AWAITS

Get Aboard

O.Dans Restaurant, Sebago’s newest friendly farm-to-table restaurant in the heart of Sebago. Great local beer & food selection. Open 6 days a week, Tues.-Fri 4 p.m. to close; Sat.-Sun. 12 p.m. to close; closed on Mon. Happy Hour specials, Tues.-Sat. Live music from local talent, every Fri.- Sat. 46 Sebago Road, Sebago 787-5124 ODansSebago.com

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Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine.

Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures.

Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com.

Portland Lobster Company Picture yourself choosing from our full menu including “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder, and more before stopping by our outdoor bar for an ice-cold locally brewed beer or a glass of fine wine. Then take a seat on our deck overlooking the gorgeous Portland Harbor and relax while listening to daily live music.

180 Commercial Street, 775-2112 portlandlobstercompany.com Restaurante El Corazon Mexican food from the heart. Authentic family recipes passed down through generations. We serve large and small plates and an “oversized tequila selection.” Try Portland’s own “Marisco”– a Mexican seafood cocktail of shrimp, bay scallops, clams, octopus, and, of course, Maine lobster.

Open lunch and dinner, Tues.-Sat. 11:00 a.m.-9:00 p.m., 190 State St. Portland. elcorazonportland.com, 536-1354

Sales | Service | Slips | Storage www.YarmouthBoatYard.com 207-846-9050 |      9 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill Now with two fun and comfortable upscale sports bar locations. Known for great casual pub food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And, with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Located at 11 Cotton Street in Portland’s Old Port (7746044) and 2 Hat Trick Drive, Falmouth (747-4020), rivalriesmaine.com

companying roasted asparagus spears and hand-cut French fries. We switch to a glass of Goyette Pinot Noir from Sonoma for the steak and a Spanish Marques de Caceres Albarino (each $11) for the lobster.

How about strawberry-rhubarb crisp for dessert ($7)? A soufflé cup topped with nicely browned, buttery crumbs comes with a couple of ripe strawberries on the side. It appears demure enough, but dip through the crust to discover a sensuous thrill–wildly tart, fruity filling, hot and saucy from the oven. The best seasonal fruit crisp ever? We wouldn’t argue.

North 43 seduces with the view and exceptional service before it surprises you, repeatedly, with the food. We hope it won’t be long until Mmes. Argitis and Brown start serving brunch. n

Light your home with beeswax candles! unique gifts, mead, wine and beer all natural line of skincare products observation hive and hobbyist beekeeping thehoneyexchange.com • 207-773-9333 494 Stevens Avenue, Portland, Maine 04103

10-6 Tuesday-Saturday • 10-2 Sunday

Restaurant Review

North 43, 1 Spring Point Dr., South Portland. Dinner Tues.Sun., 5-9 p.m. 747-4009.

Dining Guide Solo Italiano Traditional northern Italian cuisine mixes Maine freshness with Genovese flavor from international chef Paolo Laboa. Enjoy the crudo bar or the daily changing menu. Included in Food & Wine Magazine’s 2016 “What to Do in Portland, ME.” Open daily 5 p.m–10 p.m.

100 Commercial Street Portland, 780-0227, soloitalianorestaurant.com

Someday you will find yourself in Hancock, Maine.

TIQA’s pan-Mediterranean menu features dishes inspired by the cultures and cuisines of North Africa, Southern Europe, and the Middle East. Executive chef/co-owner Bo Byrne partners with purveyors to procure hand-selected, sustainably-raised and sourced meats, seafood, cheeses, and produce. TIQA is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner with brunch on Sunday.

327 Commercial Street, 808-8840.

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

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Second Annual Maine BBQ Festival, Bangor. A weekend celebration of barbecue, great music, and beer, Sept. 22-24.

288-0269 Taste of Greater Waterville, Downtown. Food booths and fine dining, sidewalk sales, craft vendors, live music, kids events, face painting, and a petting zoo, Aug. 2.

Ploye Festival & Muskie Derby, Fort Kent. 24th annual festival. Giant griddle cakes and giant fish: Traditional Acadian buckwheat griddle cakes festival in conjunction with the annual popular and competitive 3-day fishing derby with a $35k prize for the biggest fish. Muskellunges are challenging freshwater sport fish, and the St. John River has 225 miles of muskie habitat.

Aug. 11-13.

Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, Wells. Hundred of artisans exhibit their wares, along with music, and food., Sept. 9-10

Acadia Oktoberfest, October. 6-7.

Wilton Blueberry Festival. Blueberry-themed parades, live music, food, bingo, boat tours, and crafts, Aug. 4-5. 778-4726

Chenier, Red Hot Louisiana Band, Cora Harvey Armstrong, Las Cafeteras, Les Poules a Colin and Selvin Birchwood, Aug. 25-27

Winter Harbor Lobster Festival. A downeast celebration with blueberry pancake breakfast, lobsterboat races, 5K road race, and lobster dinner, Aug. 12.

Blistered Fingers Bluegrass Festival, Litchfield Fairgrounds. Hundred converge for this rendezvous featuring both local and national bluegrass bands, Aug. 23-27.

Arts Festivals

American Folk Festival Bangor waterfront. A music lover’s weekend complete with music from C.J

Camden International Film Festival. The 10th anniversary of the festival created to highlight emerging documentary filmmakers. Screening more than 70 films, most

Rangeley Art Show, Village Park, Oquossoc. Over 50 artists and craftsmen enter pieces in a juried art competition. Paintings, photography, jewelry, woodwork, pottery, and glass pieces available for sale, Aug. 3.

Beach Olympics, Town Square and Palace Playland, Old Orchard Beach.

Three days of competition, music, and displays to benefit the Maine Special Olympics, Aug. 18-20.

934-2500 Belfast Harbor Fest.

Launch party in a harborside tent with live music, 5K bug run, National Boatbuilding Contest, small-boat show, regatta,

and plenty of lobster, Aug. 18-20. 338-2081.

Boothbay Harbor Fest, Live music, a concert by Ballroom Thieves at the Opera House paired with signature cocktails, chef tastings, a nautical themed fashion show, art sales, trunk shows, a half marathon, trail races and much more. Come alive with Boothbay, Sept. 1-10.

633-2353 Brunswick Outdoors Festival, Maine St., downtown Brunswick. Free event with more than 100 artists’ booths, artisan demos, live music, dancing, and kids’ activities to celebrate the arts, Aug. 19.

Bucksport Bay Festival, Bucksport waterfront. Parade, 5K road race, games, fireworks, Jul. 21-23.

Eastport Pirate Festival, downtown Eastport. Pirate parade, reenactments, races, cutlass fights, and a

The Great Maine Camping Experience

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from left: courtesy photo; Tim Sullivan Photography

followed by Q&A sessions with the artists, Sept. 14-17.

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2017 Festival Guide (continued

from page 45)

costumed pet show, Sept.

8-10.

Fall Festival Weekend, Sunday River Resort. The unofficial kickoff to Sunday River’s winter season, the festival includes live music, a beer garden, wine tasting, arts & crafts, scenic lift and wagon rides, children’s games and activities, and the famous North American Wife Carrying Championship, Oct. 7-8. (800) 543-2754 Forest Heritage Days, Greenville. Honoring the ties between the Maine

Maine Lobster Festival delights Rockland’s waterfront, August 2-6.

forest and the Moosehead community with food, crafts, exhibitions, and the Logging Games, Aug. 11-12.

Great Falls Balloon Festival, Lewiston/Auburn.

Nearly 100,000 visitors come every year to see dozens of balloons launch near the Androscoggin River. The festival has food vendors, craft booths, and children’s activities, too, Aug. 18-20.

Harborfest, Belfast. Seventh annual Harborfest, featuring blueberry pancake breakfast, the Come Boating! Regatta, and live music. Aug. 18-20.

International Seaplane Fly-In, Greenville. On the shores of Moosehead Lake, enjoy fly-bys by rare aircraft, a craft fair, a steak-and-lobster cookout, lake cruise, flying, raffles, and contests, Sept.7-10.

695-2928

River Jam, Saco Island, Saco. When two cities come together, beautiful things happen. Biddeford and Saco celebrate a join festival with live music, food trucks, and local brews on the banks of the Saco River. Sept. 15-16.

Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors Show, Rockland waterfront. The only in-water boat show in the state, accompanied by land-based events such as architecture exhibitions, jewelry displays, marine gear vendors, live music, and food, Aug. 11-13 Maine Highland Games & Scottish Festival, Topsham Fairgrounds.

Contests of strength, pipe bands, sheepdogs, dancing, and a gathering of clans, Aug. 19.

The 17th Annual Deer Isle Jazz Festival, World-class jazz musicians perform at various venues across the island, Aug. 11-

2017 Festival Guide

12. 367-2788 Thomas Point Beach Bluegrass Festival, Brunswick. World-class bluegrass on the shores of Mid-coast Maine, Aug. 31, Sept. 1-3. 725-6009

Windham Parks & Recreation Summer Concert Series, Windham. Enjoy a free summer concert series in Dundee Park, Windham, Aug. 2.

Outdoor Sporting

Heritage Day,Oquossoc clubhouse. Fly-casting competition, game meals, interactive exhibits, kids’ activities, and ecology education, Aug. 8.

Piscataquis River Festival, Guilford. This year’s Wizard-of-Oz-themed festival will feature a parade, food and craft vendors, live music, and a duck race, Jul. 29.

Punkinfiddle Family Festival and National Estuaries Day Celebration, 342 Laudholm Farm Rd., Wells.

Live music, traditional arts demonstrations, sheepdogs, and horses gather to celebrate the beauty and value of Maine’s estuaries, and to foster environmental stewardship, Sept. 30.

Summerfest, Wiscasset Common. Live music, crafts, dog show and parade, food, and community enjoyment of high summer, to benefit local charities, July 22. 8827544.

Sunday River Open Dart Tournament, Sunday River Resort. Zipline tours, hiking, mountain biking, and disc golf, in addition to dart matches with a $10k grand prize, Sept. 15-17.

Camden Windjammer Festival, Camden waterfront. Celebration of maritime heritage and

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 0 1

2017 Festival Guide ~ Brunswick, Maine ~

BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL

August 31, September 1, 2 & 3, 2017

Over Three Decades of World- Class Bluegrass Music!

~ Our Exciting 2017 4-Day Line-up Includes ~ Jerry Douglas presents The DEL McCOURY Band The EARLS of LEICESTER The GIBSON BROTHERS DAILEY & VINCENT The STEELDRIVERS MARK O’CONNOR The GRASCALS feat. the O’CONNOR BAND The FEINBERG BROTHERS BLUE HIGHWAY The LONELY BILLY STRINGS HEARTSTRING BAND MILE TWELVE LEROY TROY & The TENNESEE MAFIA JUG BAND NEW ENGLAND BLUEGRASS BAND And So Much More!

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Dock with us Labor Day Weekend Live Music, Food Tasting & Cocktail Competition

traditions including exhibits, food, fireworks, lobster crate racing, and educational seafaring stories. Cruising schooners are open for tours, or take a smaller schooner out on the water for a sail, Sept. 1-3.

Crown of Maine Balloon Fest, Presque Isle.

Balloon rides, balloon flights, meet the crews and captains, crafts, and entertainment, Aug. 24-27.

Lobsterman Triathlon, Freeport. One of the top triathlons in the country, this Olympic-distance “destination race” includes a post-race lobster bake, Sept. 16.

MS Regatta & Harborfest, Portland waterfront. A weekend festival with sailboats, powerboats, tugboats, and lobster boats to benefit the National Multiple Sclerosis Society, including a regatta, racing, and an auction, Aug. 18-20.

Learning Festivals

Acadia Night Sky Festival, Bar Harbor. Night hikes, a paddle in a bioluminescent bay, science presentations, and themed movies in this celebration of the best stargazing site on the Eastern seaboard, Sept. 21-24.

Attean Memorial Pow Wow, Maine Wildlife Park, Gray. Tribal representatives from Maine, New England, and around the country will be at the park for two full days with native dancers, drummers, craft vendors, singers, and traditional food booths, Aug. 12-13.

Common Ground Country Fair, Unity.

Celebrate the organic and rural version of the good life and learn new things about farming.

Agricultural demonstrations–milking, blacksmithing, composting, stoneworking, orchardgrowing–plus produce and crafts vendors, food, music, and camping, Sept. 22-24.

Festival of Nations, Deering Oaks Park, Portland. Maine’s cultural diversity celebrity in Portland’s prettiest park. Featuring authentic ethnic food, crafts, music, and education,Jul. 29. 420-1277.

International Homecoming Festival, Calais.

Celebrate the American-Canadian border and first French settlement in the New World.

Arts and crafts fair, music, waterfront events, raft race, Passamaquoddy Native-American demonstrations, Celtic music, and a lumberjack contest, Aug. 9-13.

Laudholm Nature Crafts Festival, Laudholm Farm, Wells. This event brings more than 100 artisans, selected by jury, to exhibit their wares Maine Highland Games & Scottish Festival brings a taste of the Highlands to Topsham, August 19.

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2017 Festival Guide for thousands of browsers. Music, food, and fun round out the 2-day festival, Sept.9-10.

Life Happens Outside Festival, Thompson’s Point, Portland. Workshops for adults and children on how to survive and live outside in the wilderness, Aug 25 & 26 Save A Stray 5K and Festival, Freeport.

Take a stroll with man’s best friend for a good cause this summer. L.L. Bean will host a 5K run or walk that is open to humans and canines alike. All proceeds will benefit the animals at The Coastal Humane Society and the Lincoln County Animal Shelter, Aug 26. (877) 755.2326 Vintage Motorcycle Meet & Antique Aeroplane Show, Owls Head Transportation Museum. Military aircraft, high-wheel bicycles, classic cars, antique planes, and a high-speed aerobatic air show. Pre-1994 vehicles of any make or model are welcome to exhibit, with Model-T rides, vehicle demonstrations, and family fun, Sept. 2-3.

Wings & Wheels Spectacular & Aerobatic Airshow, Owls Head Transportation Museum. This show highlights military aircraft, high-wheel bicycles, classic cars, antique planes, and a high-speed aerobatic air show, Aug. 5-6.

Portland, Maine

207.775.0727 www.oddyseywhalewatch.com A MAINE WHALE WATCHING ADVENTURE AWAITS YOU ABOARD THE ODYSSEY!

Great fun and educational for the entire family.

Enjoy the ocean air, narration and sights of Casco Bay as we cruise out to the whale feeding grounds.

Odyssey also offers Deep Sea Fishing!

SATURDAYS IN SEPTEMBER WITH THE TATE HOUSE

To learn more visit us online at TATEHOUSE.org or call 207-774-6177

Sept. 9: Frolic on the Farm & 5K

5K run/walk, Colonial Breakfast, fun, games, picnicking, and much more at Spurwink Farm in Cape Elizabeth

Sept. 16: Brews with Tate House and Mast Landing Brewing Company

See the Tate House, meet Crafty Bastard author Lauren Clark, and sample a special edition beer at Mast Landing Brewing Company J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 0 5

Maine Veterinary Medical Center in Scarborough, Maine We treat all pet emergencies 24 /7 Open 24 hours a day, every day, year round.

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Lobster & Fish House Come visit one of the last working fish houses in beautiful Cape Porpoise Harbor.

We buy seafood directly from fishermen on our own wharf.

We take pride in offering our customers the freshest and highest quality seafood we can obtain.

Lobsters, Steamers, PEI Mussels, Oysters, Littlenecks, Haddock, Wild Salmon, Halibut, Swordfish, Sole, Scallops, Lobster Meat, Maine Crab Meat, Smoked Salmon, Finnan Haddie, Smoked Herring, Wild Large Raw Shrimp, Cocktail Shrimp, Sushi-grade Tuna, Scottish Salmon

We also ship lobsters and seafood directly to your location using overnight air.

We cook your lobsters & shellfish for free!

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Come for the Bargains & Stay for the Fun!

Shop, sip, stroll, dine . . . then its off to the movies . . . Have a Wonderful Time!

Visit Facebook or onefreeportvillagestation.com for FREE coupons, hours and a store listing. Visit nordicatheatre.com to purchase tickets, gift cards and for show times.

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Don’t just see Portland — Discover it.

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CRonkite Realty 123 Hills Beach Road, Biddeford, Maine $697,000

123 Hills Beach Road, Biddeford, Maine $697,000 Oceanfront property on quiet, residential peninsula with 4 bedrooms and 2 full baths. Significant renovations in recent years. New septic tank, chamber system, and leach field installed in 2014. From the sundeck you will have a commanding view of 9 islands (one with a lighthouse), observe boats sailing in and out from two channels, and you can actually see the shoreline of 5 towns. Sandy beach, incredible! 1/2 mile to University of New England. MLS#: 1308030

Cronkite Realty LLC

125 Hills Beach Road, Biddeford & 24 Ocean Avenue, Kennebunkport Offices conveniently located at Hills Beach and in Dock Square, across the street from David’s Restaurant Call Raymond at (207) 967-0600 or (207) 282-2299

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House of the Month

A Balcony to Forever A cottage on hidden Hills Beach north of Biddeford Pool is a wake-up call for a new owner in search of a memorable view.

By colin w. sargent

meaghan maurice; inset: raymond Cronkite

A

t sunrise, “It looks like God coming out of the water,” says listing agent Ray Cronkite of the ocean view from 123 Hills Beach Road.

To reach this four-bedroom, two-bath 1920s cottage perched on a private beach, drive to the University of New England in Biddeford along Route 9, cut through the campus, and take Hills Beach Road the toward the surf until you find this quiet enclave facing east on the sandy peninsula protecting the north side of Biddeford Pool.

If you crave the ocean, this is the kind of destination where you stop your car, get out, take a deep breath of salt air sweetened by sea roses. Talk about wow factor. With views this long, it’s enough to make a former smoker crave a cigarette.

From the sea, the yellow-shingled cottage is symmetri-

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 1 3

cal and sweetly framed with its two gables.

For security, there are two bulwarks against the waves. “The original seawall below is rectangular granite blocks,” Cronkite says.

The stones are very old and pieced. “The wall on top is rip rap.”

No fewer than five islands dance into view from here, including Wood Island, with its hypnotic white lighthouse. Barely a few surf casts away is “Basket Island, where novelist Anita Shreve is building a house.”

At mid-tide, a lovely sandy causeway connects the mainland to Basket Island,but at high tide, the causeway disappears. Not long ago, “a young couple leased a brand new Chevy Suburban and drove out to Basket Island,” but the rising tides followed, marooning them. When they tried to return, “the tires just dug in halfway across.”

The lady in the SUV “was in tears.” In the end, they had to abandon their vehicle to nature. “At high tide, you could just see the top of their car.”

1 1 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

If it seems as if Cronkite is an acute local observer, he is. “I live next door.” Full disclosure, “I sold this house in 2008 to a urologist for $835,000. He loves this area so much he’s upsizing to a larger place nearby.”

M

ainers know Cronkite as the former owner of The Maine Aquarium in Saco. He grew up right here and has always had a yen for real estate.

He points out the giant sweep of blue that engulfs “Two Lights in Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough Beach, and Old Orchard Beach.” He steps closer to the rail and points again. “Do you see those two squares on the distant peninsula?”

It’s easy to make the large squares out, though they’re wavery and smoky in the distance.

“Well, that’s Maine Medical Center on the West End in Portland.”

In all, “you can see the shoreline of five

towns. During the summertime every Thursday, you’re going to see fireworks.”

Come winter, things quiet down. “Hills Beach is primarily retirement or vacation homes. It’s all but unheard to stay here all year round and raise children. But in the winter, the doctors from the university make good tenants.”

It’s easy to miss this stunning, narrow, beachy peninsula that reaches to the inlet to Biddeford Pool, but Cronkite seems okay with that. Bufflehead’s bistro is steps away from 123 Hills Beach Road. The Sea Star Market is close by, too.

If you’re wracking your brains and wondering if you’ve ever been out here before, that’s understandable. Say you’re from Boston or Portland–there’s always a reason not to go to Hills Beach. That’s why it’s remained one of the last unselfconscious stretches of sand along the coast of Southern Maine. It’s the beach not taken.

Put another way, this $669,000 listing has a ‘trillion-dollar view.’ The lot is .15 acres, with 70 feet of beach and ocean frontage. While this may be a bargain basement opportunity, don’t look for a base-

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House of the Month ment. Total square footage above ground is 1,576, and some might classify it as a teardown. The breezy sea porch on the first floor runs the length of the wood-frame structure, the islands and water sparkling into view from two classic white rocking chairs. You can see yachts entering Biddeford Pool, cruise ships headed for Portland Harbor.

While the interior could use updating and cosmetics are required just about everywhere, inner strengths reassure. In particular, each of the two oceanfront bedrooms upstairs has a door to the secondfloor deck. A larger bedroom has “five new Andersen windows.” Not big on stairs?

There’s a single bedroom on the first floor, immediately to the left as you enter from the front door.

This cottage has ‘eyes.’ It’s a balcony to forever. Not only does it have fantastic potential, it’s positioned perfectly for a dramatic transformation. From what we’ve seen, it’s this summer’s dark horse. Taxes are $10,413. n

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COPLIN Pltn. - 5 Bed, 2 bath house and large garage right on the base of the AT trail. Open concept main level. Dead end road. Less then 10 miles to Sugarloaf. Trails of all types near. $197,500 KINGFIELD - Commanding views!! 55 acres overlooking the Carrabassett River Valley. New construction home. Attached garage. 3 Bed, 2.5 baths. And metal roof. Vaulted ceiling in Kitchen/dining/living room. $425,000 Concord Township - 1850s farmhouse with attached garage and barn. Spacious rooms with high ceilings and wood floors. 4 Large bedrooms and 2 baths. Metal roof. Close to Kennebec River and Wyman Lake. $112,000

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Blueberry Island

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Located on a small island with private bridge access to a long established summer colony. Designed by an architect, Just an northcover of Portland, this classic Maine retreat awaits you. published onhour the front of two highly recognized Spectacular 3.5+/acre home Blueberry is the ultimate in privacy. magazines.

This dream summer offers Island ocean frontage, Nestled onof the shore of 12-mile Long Pond, this westwith 300 degrees oceaneastern views! The exclusive community more thanmarina, 3,600’ casino, of shorefront of 44 facing homes island share awith beach, private and a provides endless to 2006 relax with and explore. the bold tennisopportunities court. Built in the finestEnjoy materials and rock outcroppings, sandy beach,The towering pines, aand the kitchen, three smaller islands that steel construction. home includes gourmet surround it. suite, The big island hasbedrooms, a reconstructed, 1780s antique cottage master bedroom plus three 3.5 baths, withopen a huge deck living, and a floor screened sleeping porch. It contains all the elevator, concept to ceiling windows, off-grid amenities.

DeededPrivate mainland wrap modern around decks for ultimate entertaining! entryparking and dock. for guest on the first floor, which includes three bedrooms, Heirloom Quality.

Rare (two ocean view), two full baths, and Opportunity. laundry. Master $1,100,000 suite is an oasis with private deck, vaulted ceilings, walk J O H N G R A H A M R E A L E S TAT E in closets, private master bath with double sink, soaking 207-491-1660 • john@johngrahamrealestate.com tub, and custom tile walk in shower! MLS#1308956.

This exquisite summer retreat is offered at $1,450,000

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“A View to Sea” Southport (Capitol Island), Maine

Located on a small island with private bridge access to a long established summer colony.

Designed by an architect, published on the front cover of two highly recognized magazines. This dream summer home offers ocean frontage, with 300 degrees of ocean views! The exclusive community of 44 homes share a beach, private marina, casino, and a tennis court. Built in 2006 with the finest materials and steel construction.

The home includes a gourmet kitchen, master bedroom suite, plus three bedrooms, 3.5 baths, elevator, open concept living, floor to ceiling windows, wrap around decks for ultimate entertaining! Private entry for guest on the first floor, which includes three bedrooms, (two ocean view), two full baths, and laundry. Master suite is an oasis with private deck, vaulted ceilings, walk in closets, private master bath with double sink, soaking tub, and custom tile walk in shower! MLS#1308956.

“A View to Sea” Southport (Capitol Island) Maine

This exquisite summer retreat is offeredLocated at $1,450,000 on a small island with private bridge access to a

long established summer colony. Designed by an architect, published on the front cover of two highly recognized magazines. This dream summer home offers frontage, J u l y /ocean Augus t 2017 119 with 300 degrees of ocean views! The exclusive community

New England Homes & Living

“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” SADDLEBACK LAKE Summer Time at the Lake! Brimming w/Rangeley Charm “Lakeview” is Just Steps to Central Sandy Beach & Shared/Owned 1800’ Frontage on No-Motors, Fly-Fishing Only Waterbody. Plus Tennis Courts, Walking Trails All on 32 Acres. $129,500

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

(207) 233-8275

caryn@citycoverealty.com

RANGELEY LAKE RARE OFFERING on Secluded Smith Cove!

Classic Lakeside Cottage Privately Sited on 2.9 Acres with 400’ Shore Frontage. Unobstructed Views, Covered Porch, Flat Lawn to Waterfront and Dock. $530,000

RANGELEY LAKE LIVING IS EASY and HASSLE FREE at Niboban Sporting Camps on Legendary Rangeley Lake! Only 2 Front Row Cabins Remaining – Once You Arrive, You’ll Never Want To Leave - Get One Before Its Gone! $269,900-279,900

AZISCOHOS LAKE

RANGELEY LAKE

REMOTE Fishing/Hunting Camp on Owned Land with 100’ Sandy Frontage. Off Grid Campy Camp has Gas Appliances/Lights, Wood Stove & Gas LP Stove for Heat. Peaceful Setting, Level Lot, Open Lake/Sunset Views. $175,000

INVESTORS TAKE NOTICE – Super Opportunity on the Big Lake! 2 Lakeside Cottages 50’ From Scenic Oquossoc Cove w/Good 3-Season Rental Potential. Recently Refreshed Inside & Out, Open Views, Walk to Oquossoc Amenities. $246,000

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BEAVER MT. LAKE ACCESS First Time on the Market Ever! 3BR Home Lovingly Maintained and Enjoyed By an Active Family All 4-Seasons. Comfortable Floor Plan, Private Wooded Setting, Short Walk to Deeded Water Access, Minutes to Town. $179,000

2455 Main Street • P.O. Box 1234 • Rangeley, ME 04970

www.realestateinrangeley.com

Morton-Furbish.com

207-864-5777 2478 Main Street Rangeley, Maine

DODGE POND WATERFRONT 31 Angel Point Rd. Gorgeous Log Home W/3 Bed,3 Bath, Attached Garage, 2.43 Private Acres & 272 Feet of Private Waterfront With Dock. $634,500.

RANGELEY LAKE WATERFRONT 45 Wheatland Rd. - Private Waterfront Contemporary W/3 Bed, 3 Bath, 205 Feet Frontage W/Large Dock, Sun Drenched, Custom Kitchen, $995,000.

MOOSELOOK LAKE WATERFRONT 631 Bald Mtn. Rd. - 4 Bed 4.5 Bath Mainland Home, PLUS Your Own Private Island W/2 Bedroom Cottage & Power, Beach, Dock, 310’ Frontage, 3+ Acres, $995,000.

RANGELEY LAKE WATERFRONT 281 Bonney Point Rd. - Vintage Rangeley CIRCA 1902- 4BR Main house w/covered porch, 2 guest cabins, bath house, garage, Tennis court, 2 ac. w/ 376’ on North Shore $595,000.

MOOSELOOK LAKE WATERFRONT 923 Bemis Rd. - Custom built home with open floor plan, high end KIT,master suite, gas stone fireplace, decks w/ 3 acres and level lawns to 100’ feet on East Shore of lake $749,000.

RANGELEY LAKE WATERFRONT - 63 Lakehouse Rd. - Exquisite property w/ main house & cottage on a secluded bluff with 900’ of lake frontage. Great views, docks, porches, decks for outdoor entertaining $1,300,000.

CUPSUPTIC LAKE WATERFRONT 124 Herr Trail - Wonderful Waterfront Lot W/ Lawn, 200 Feet Shorefront, 1.16 Acres, Private Location, FP, Full Basement, Year Round Living, Garage! $375,000.

RANGELEY MAINE - 3861 Main St. The Original Grasshopper Hill Farm With 9.74 Acres, Views Of Rangeley Lake And Bald Mtn, Close To Oquossoc Village, 4 Bed, 2 Baths! $249,000.

PHILLIPS MAINE - 45 Soule Rd. Custom Built Lot Home With Panoramic Mountain Views And Total Seclusion On 10 Private Acres, Fully Yr Round, 3 Beds, 2 Baths, FP, WD Floors! $270,000.

James L Eastlack, Owner Broker

207-670-5058 | JLEastlack@gmail.com

Margery Jamison, Real Estate Broker

207-670-7350 | CCINN1@myfairpoint.net

Carolyn Smith, Real Estate Broker

207-491-5800 | carolyn@morton-furbish.com

New England Homes & Living

T

CLARKE PAINTING

THINKING ABOUT PAINTING? THINK CLARKE. We treat your property, as if it were our property.

• Over 15 years of Residential, Commercial, and Historic painting experience.

• Staffed with more than 20 painters to ensure efficient project completion.

• Fully Insured and Bonded where applicable.

• EPA Certified RRP/Lead Paint Certified

• Over 3,000 homes painted in Maine, Massachusetts & New Hampshire • Free Estimates • Ability to provide/communicate with banks regarding peeling lead paint to help close FHA/VA/RD loans faster

Historic Properties We’ve Painted: Robert Frost Farm - Derry, NH | Tate House - Portland | Lindsey Hotel - Rockland | Higgins Beach Inn - Scarborough Unitarian Universalist Church - Kennebunk | White Columns - Kennebunk Historic Society | Woodford’s Church - Portland Carroll Mansion - Portland | US Coast Guard Doubling Point Light Station - Arrowsic

207-591-0365 | Paint.Clarke@gmail.com | www.CLARKEPAINT.com 1 2 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

New England Homes & Living

United Realty

FRAN RILEY, GRI BROKER

ROLAND LITTLEFIELD BROKER

307 Belmont Ave. • Belfast, ME 04915 207-338-6000 • UnitedRealtyME.com

Please visit our website for virtual tours on our listings and access to ALL Maine Real Estate!

BELFAST

BELFAST

Stunning, magnificent views from this home perched atop this subdivision. “Hilltop House” is simply special. You must see it to appreciate the tranquillity this site affords. Home is impeccably well maintained and kept. Features expansive outside areas for parties and entertaining. Pleasing kitchen, den, dining and living rms all enjoy views of the fireplace. Master EnSuite with full bath, dressing room and yes of course the deck! 3 Additional bedrooms up with full bath & sitting room; yes, with a balcony!

Exquisite, Custom Designed home prominently situated on some of the most impressive oceanfront in Mid Coast Maine! South facing views down the bay & across Belfast Proper. Your beach front awaits, drop your mooring & watch your yacht from your home. Foyer opens to magnificent vistas of the harbor, stone fireplace in living, granite counters in kitchen, sun porch; every room w/breathtaking views . First fl. Master En-Suite w/double showers, sunken tub; wake up to the ocean greeting you.

MLS 1312504 | $449,900

MLS: 1310492 | $749,900

SWAN LAKE

BELFAST

PENOBSCOT BAY

BELFAST

Swanville Notably one of THE most remarkable properties on this desirable lake! Custom built Executives Home on a private setting at the end of the road. 1.5 Acres with 285’ along the shore. Home features 2 floors, with the lower level ideal for the guests and family when they visit. Main level offers captivating views from every room. Multi access to the waterfront deck w/power awning when entertaining. 30x32’ attached, heated garage w/2nd floor for storage or expansion.

Paved drive, Dock included

Custom built 3/2 home features intricate details throughout. Lovely wood floors, seasonal water views and easy access on the Rail Trail which leads to the Belfast Waterfront. Water facing screened porch and spacious deck. Must SEE!

Belfast Commanding views across Penobscot Bay from this Contemporary, only 5 miles to downtown Belfast waterfront. Built in 2005, this 1624 sq. ft home features access to oceanfront from every room! City utilities, private development. Enjoy lobster bakes on your own beach!

Only 2 miles to downtown, this lovely home has an updated kitchen, fireplace in living, open porch. Most recently operated as a business, located on U.S. Rt. 1 makes this ideal home office, accounting, legal or medical facility.

MLS:1295111 | $229,900

MLS: 1283853 | $549,900

MLS: 1290995 | $254,900

MLS: 1304620 | $529,900

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 2 3

New England Homes & Living

237 Waldoboro Road, Jefferson, ME 04348

207-549-5657

�rstportland.com

Checkout BLINK at rstportland.com/blink Your local alternative to Rocket Mortgage, but with better rates!

Jefferson, Café Beautifully renovated bakery and café in Jefferson is ready for opening. Café has everything you need to start cooking now– fryolators, sandwich units, proofer, pizza oven, stove, grill top, refrigerators, freezer, walk-in cooler. New tables are in place and waiting for customers to enjoy their meals. $295,000 www.BlackDuckRealty.com email: info@blackduckrealty.com

Maine Forests - Work, Play, Live

BRUNSWICK

353 acres with views in the Lake Sebago Region Exceptional mountain views from this forested parcel.

Great opportunities for establishing a home with recreational trails and significant town road frontage with power enhancing value. In the Sebago Lake Region within an hour of Portland and the White Mountains.

NEW PRICE! $295,000

330 acres overlooking the Saco River Valley Fronting Black Mountain Road in Sweden just west of the Saco River Valley, this recreational forest on Woodbury Hill is an ideal hunting retreat with camp or year-round home options in a central clearing. Young hardwoods attract game and forestry trails offer internal access.

$239,000

Four beautiful seasons of country living, only 10 miniutes to Brunswick and 25 minutes to Portland. This remarkably diverse 7.4 acre property features a charming 4 bedroom, 4 bath home nestled in beautifully landscaped grounds overlooking a pastoral field with wildlife pond, lovely perennial/vegetable gardens, and an apple and peach orchard. Well maintained and upgraded, this home offers a cook’s kitchen, living room with fireplace, formal dining room, great room with pasture view, family room, finished/walk-out basement, and so much more! $525,000.

Fountains Land

Patrick Hackley - 603-491-3649 fountainsland.com 1 2 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

240 Maine Street • Brunswick, ME 04011 • (207) 729-1863 For Properties, Open Houses, Visual Tours – www.MaineRE.com

New England Homes & Living

Investment Opportunity

Just a bit north of Portland, is a fabulous investment opportunity; two historically preserved properties with several office/residential space configurations for small to medium businesses. Off street parking and beautiful river views!

201 MAIN STREET, AUBURN MLS: 1298974 LIST PRICE: $295,000 2 UNITS SQFT: 3,800

UNLIMITED DATA

223 MAIN STREET, AUBURN MLS: 1298957 LIST PRICE: $450,000 3 UNITS SQFT: 5,300

FIRST MONTH FREE INSTALLATION & ACTIVATION INCLUDED

ED GARDNER, BROKER 207.773.1919 Ed@OceanGateRealty.com

Basement Waterproofing Basement Structural Repairs Basement Sump Pumps Basement Humidity & Mold Control ...and Nasty Crawl Spaces too!

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There’s a tiny mattress factory in the back of the Portland Mattress Makers building on Marginal Way. We craft each mattress by hand like we’ve been doing since 1938.

No matter where you buy a mattress, start at Portland Mattress Makers. We’ll show you our factory and answer any questions so you can make an informed buying decision.

Visit our factory and retail store at 283 Marginal Way in Portland

1-866-546-0706 TCHaffordPortland.com

Additional stores are located at: • 990 Lafayette Road in Portsmouth • South Willow Street, next to the DMV in Manchester PortlandMattressMakers.com | P: (207) 772-2276

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 2 5

Real estate sales and vacation rentals since 1898

Real Estate

Vacation Rentals

Integrity and unsurpassed attention to our clients’ needs Dedicated professionalism and keen sense of the market Part of the MDI community since 1898

Over 100 years of rental experience Personalized service, local expertise Our agents handle all the details so you can relax

Distinctive properties.

Legendary service.

Lakefront camps, downtown apartments, rural cottages, oceanfront luxury estates...we have it all

For all your real estate needs on Mount Desert Island and the Downeast Maine coast.

Also offering more than 400 vacation rentals near Acadia National Park.

1 Summit Road Northeast Harbor, ME 207-276-3322 info@KnowlesCo.com

www.KnowlesCo.com

New England Homes & Living

York Bold Oceanfront 3 BR, 3 BA $1,495,000

Portland Historic Western Prom 7 BR, 4 Full BA, 2 Half BA $1,575,000

Portland Baltimore Block Townhouse $760,000 6 BR, 3 Full BA, 1 Half BA

Scarborough Old Blue Point Estates Colonial 4 BR, 2 Full BA, 1 Half BA $519,000

John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 2 7

New England Homes & Living

Noyes Real Estate Agency

Serving the Rangeley Region for over 50 years!

#525- Renovated 4 bedroom farmhouse, 1.56 acres, barn, stunning lake views. Trail access, rental history and low taxes. NEW PRICE $199,000

#375 Charming chalet with westerly views and deeded access to Rangeley Lake. Close to town and Saddleback, with sled and ATV access. Hardwood floors and soaring ceilings, too! $235,000

#300 Log home, 3 bedrooms, oversized garage, storage building, and porch. Access to Dodge Pond and trails! $245,000!

#530 Privacy on 3 tranquil acres.

House has 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, granite fireplace, and 2 car garage. Close to Saddleback and trails. $255,000

#552 Beautiful home, direct sled trail access, 4 bedrooms, hard wood floors, attached garage, close to Saddleback, recently remodeled. $299,000

#326 At Haines Landing on Mooselookmeguntic. Lake vistas from your screened porch, common area beach, 3 bedrooms. With Saddleback opening again, this Oquossoc gem will go quickly! NEW PRICE $329,200

#484 On the shores of Mooselookmeguntic Lake, private location, garage, 3 bedrooms, and screened porch. $399,000

#426 Cozy 4Br 2BA home on Loon Lake. One of the York camps, it was renovated and addition put on in 1991. 2 fireplaces, original woodwork, and nice floor plan. $425,000

#400 Large vintage Rangeley cottage with 3 bedrooms and porch at the water’s edge on Bald Mountain Road. Completely renovated permanent dock makes your summer perfect! NEW PRICE $445,200

#432-Beautiful one of a kind charming property. Over a mile of shoreline frontage on a 17 acre pond. Includes a main house at the water’s edge, a full guest house, boat house, and 3 more buildings!!

Possible commercial potential with LUPC approval. $675,000

Saddleback is Back!

Find your Bargains Now!

Let us be your buyer broker and find your perfect vacation-recreation home.

2388 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970

207-864-9000 • info@noyesrealty.com • www.noyesrealty.com

Maine’s Oldest & Largest Mover Service you can Trust from People who care! www.MoveBisson.com Bobby Cooper Certified Moving Consultant

207-591-1045 207-831-8525 Bobby.Cooper@movebisson.com

1 2 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

New England Homes & Living

OCEAN POINT WATER VIEW

EAST BOOTHBAY WATERFRONT

BOOTHBAY HARBOR WATER VIEW

4BR/3BA home with views of Ram Island Lighthouse. 4BR/4BA home with 3 fireplaces, exposed beams, Beautifully appointed 3BR/2.5BA home with Custom kitchen, garage & perennial waterside and wide plank floors. 1st floor master suite, garage, southwest orientation. 1st floor master suite, open gardens. Path to Grimes Cove Beach. $695,000 concept living, and attached garage. $595,000 $774,500 and automatic generator.

SPRUCE POINT HEIGHTS

SPRUCE POINT CONDOMINIUM

SAWYER’S ISLAND WATERFRONT

Spectacular 3BR/3.5BA home overlooking Linekin Updated 3BR/3.5BA condo with access to tennis Custom 3BR/2.5BA home with 362’ frontage.

Bay with floor to ceiling windows, gourmet kitchen, courts, pools & waterfront Inn amenities. Ideal income Amenities include cathedral ceiling, fireplace, hardgarage, and 1st floor master suite. $699,900 property or a great vacation retreat. $380,000 wood flooring, and beautiful landscaping. $1,295,000

STAY CONNECTED

32 Oak Street, Boothbay Harbor, ME • 207-633-6711 • www.tindalandcallahan.com

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New England Homes & Living

720 Oak Hill Road, Standish | $459,000

Our City…Your Way! Culture • Nightlife • Legends • Style

Remarkably restored Homestead on 12 acres of open fields with expansive views. Several varieties of fruit trees and high bush blueberries. Plenty of room for livestock and gardens. The house features newer FHW extensive heat pumps for cooling, 1 wood burning and 2 gas stoves. The large master bedroom suite that was added in 2002 offers privacy and wonderful views.

Large screened porch is perfect for seasonal gatherings. Beautifully landscaped with granite and rock walls. $459,000 MLS #: 1314002

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N e w E n g l a n d ’s N o r t h S t a r

Frank Strout FrankStrout@maine.rr.com P: 207-799-7600 M: 207-776-4245

CLASSIC MAINE PROPERTIES

(207) 775-4339 • www.portlandmagazine.com

NEW HARBOR - PEMAQUID - NEWCASTLE ROUND POND - MONHEGAN

L. DEWEY CHASE LONG COVE POINT Charming, 3-season cottage with 4 bedrooms, 252' of Bold Oceanfront facing Mohegan Island on Long Cove Point Chamberlain. Private but close to beach, tennis club and dock. Many possibilities and wonderful neighborhood!

MLS: 1272738 125 Long Cove Point Road Chamberlain, Maine $695,000 0.5 Acres - Built in 1909 L. Dewey Chase 2568 Bristol Rd., New Harbor, Maine info@ldchase.com | 207-677-2978 Rentals: rentals@ldchase.com | 207-677-2100

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R E A L E S TAT E

ST. ANDREWS VILLAGE Charming coastal cottages for sale Spacious, light-filled apartments for rent A Full Senior Health Continuum on one campus Scenic, coastal landscape setting Fine dining and friendly neighbors Located in the heart of Boothbay Harbor Outings, activities & gatherings Maintenance-free living Pet friendly

Senior Living at Its Finest in Beautiful Coastal Maine:

Cottages Feature Customization Allowance Apartments Feature Promotional Incentives

Call Bob Drury to arrange a private tour today!

(207) 633-0920 145 Emery Lane, Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538 www.standrewsvillage.com

The time of your life starts now!

SCHOONER COVE Resident-Owned Independent Apartments Featuring Generous One and Two-Bedroom Floor Plans and Glorious Riverfront Views Beautiful Surroundings Fine Dining with a water view Friendly neighbors and maintenance-free living A short walk to Damariscotta Village Outings, activities & gatherings A full health continuum on campus Pets welcome on approval All Apartments Feature Purchase Price Flexibility and Generous Refurbishment Allowances

Call Bruce Hardina to arrange a private tour today!

(207) 563-4631 35 Schooner Street, Damariscotta, ME 04543 www.schoonercove.com

St. Andrews Village and Schooner Cove are part of the LincolnHealth Senior Services Continuum, which includes Independent Living, Assisted Living, Memory Care, Skilled Rehabilitation, Long Term Care, Home Care, and Hospice Services.

21 Albert Meadow Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 (800) 753-0494

Bar Harbor’s Premier Oceanfront Accommodations

www.balancerockinn.com

Fiction

Surf Lung One

Jon Milnes

G

By Frederick Sargent

rowing up, I always wondered what it would be like to have “cool parents.” I knew with a certainty that my own parents were not cool. For one thing, they were maybe 15 years older than my friends’ parents. They were married late in the game, and my father was over 40 when I was born. My mother was very welcoming to my friends–always ready with a congo bar and refreshments. But my father subscribed to the old adage “Children are to J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 3 3

Fiction be seen and not heard.” He was busy all the time “puttering around the yard” and barely acknowledged my friends, and if he did notice them, it was probably because they were doing something wrong. I remember him calling the neighbors one time because their kids were playing the stereo out the windows so the whole neighborhood could hear. I walked around in shame after that phone call. But what could I do?

My friend Danny, on the other hand, definitely had cool parents. Richard and Celia Johnson were in their mid-30s when I first met Danny in Academy Park. Unlike my father, Richard actually liked his kids and would often be outside throwing the baseball or football. He must have been a BMOC in high school and college because he was tall, handsome, and athletic. Celia was also tall and a beautiful woman, and the kindest person in the neighborhood to the kids. Maybe because of their location, their house was “Grand Central Station.” It was always “We’ll meet at the Johnson's and then figure out what to do.”

A

Ireland’s Crystal & Crafts 558 C ongress s treet , P ortland | 207 773-5832 1 3 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

nother notch in their belt was a birthday present that Danny received one year–a U.S. Diver Surf Lung One scuba toy. It was a plastic toy replica of a Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau Aqua-Lung, but in reality, it was a snorkel that looked like a scuba tank. You put on the two-hose mouthpiece from the simulated regulator, and you could breathe from a hole at the back that allowed surface air to enter. You could actually strap this baby on your back and go into the water. The buoyancy from the hollow plastic tank would keep you at the surface, allowing you to paddle around with a mask on and view the underwater world. Should you somehow submerge with this thing, a ball valve shut off the hole so you couldn’t breathe or take on water. It was the coolest present a kid could receive, having grown up first with Lloyd Bridges and Sea Hunt and then Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau and his National Geographic specials.

Standing next to the garage by the pathway leading to the vacant lot, I double checked my gear. The Surf Lung One was strapped securely on my back, and I placed the big oval mask on my face, being careful not to breathe and fog up the lens. Confident that I was “ready to get wet,” I turned

Maine Native American Summer Market and headed down the path into the aldercloaked empty lot. While the day was sunny and hot, it was a cooler and darker world in the green underworld. I descended slowly down the path, taking in the world that stretched out before me from behind my oval blinders. Alder branches brushed by me as I went deeper and deeper. I reached my maximum depth when I found the collapsed foundation. The lot had originally been cleared for a house build, the foundation hole dug, and the concrete foundation poured. But it progressed no further, and the alders reclaimed the lot, and the foundation walls collapsed into the center. This became our play world, and here at its lowest point I was exploring the concrete slabs for an octopus or maybe a killer whale. Finding no danger here, I continued my dive along the alder-lined pathway, then cut to my left and headed up to a shallower depth. The whole time I was on the lookout for a bad guy sporting a dive knife or maybe a spear gun. Ahead of me was the bright light of Greentree Lane and the surface.

Checking my imaginary air gauge, I figured I must be getting low, so I retraced my steps back to the foundation under the cover of the alders. Just a short distance from the garage, I felt my air run out, so I hit the emergency lever to access the final 300 pounds of air and scrambled the final steps up to the Johnsons’ garage. Danny was there to greet me after my successful dive.

The magic of the undersea world eluded me until my fortieth birthday, when I received a present better than the Aqua Lung One–diving lessons enabling me to become a certified scuba diver. Recently, I was diving in Aruba at the Finger Reef dive site.

Donning a 3mm full-body wetsuit with tank, weights, buoyancy compensator, regulator, fins, mask, and snorkel, I stepped off the back of the Dive Aruba boat and entered the underwater world of the Caribbean Sea. Descending to twenty feet in the eighty-degree water, I’m in a world I only dreamed of in that vacant lot. It’s like diving in a crystal-clear fish tank. Joining the other divers we slowly descend along this reef, watching the corals change from brain to stag horn and finally black coral which looks eerily like white pine trees. I am as amazed on this day as I was diving the vacant lot with Danny’s Aqua Lung One. It’s another world. n

Saturday, August 26 10am-3:30pm FREE

Monday - Saturday; 10am-4:30pm Sunday; 10am Worship Service only 707 Shaker Rd, New Gloucester, ME 20 minutes North of Portland

maineshakers.com

sabbathday lake

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Custom Designs, Restorations and Repairs, Windows, Doors, Lighting, Kitchen and Bath, Fusing, Painting, Sandblasting, and more...

• 630 Forest Ave Portland, ME 04101 • 800.773.4154 • www.phoenixstudio.com • J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 1 3 5

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the beautiful maine coast • boat rentals available to exPlore

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