Portland Monthly Magazine May 2021

ROUTE ONE ADVENTURE • THC & ME

LeAnn wants you to know:

Yes,

there will be a summer this year.

DREAM VACATION

RENTAL RENTAL

GARRISON FIELD Meet Meet Your Your Meet Your

DREAM DREAM VACATION VACATION

This six-bedroom, seven-bathroom, 14-acre seaside Cape Elizabeth estate might look like it's been ripped from the English ountryside, but in fact built in 1928. It's an outstanding example of the residential architecture built by conservative men o wealth during the "Jazz Age'. In addition to the spacious historic main house, the estate features a private heated pool with a This This six-bedroom, six-bedroom, seven-bathroom, seven-bathroom, 14-acre 14-acre seaside seaside Cape Cape Elizabeth Elizabeth estate estate might might look look like like it's it's been been ripped ripped from from the the English English bathhouse, oceanfront private beach and stone beach This six-bedroom, seven-bathroom, 14-acre conservatory, seaside Cape Elizabeth estate might look like it's beenhouse. ripped from the English countryside, countryside, but but in in fact fact built built in in 1928.

1928. It's It's an an outstanding outstanding example example of of the the residential residential architecture architecture built built by by conservative conservative men men of of countryside, but in fact built in 1928. It's an outstanding example of the residential architecture built by conservative men of wealth wealth during during the the "Jazz "Jazz Age'.

Age'. In In addition addition to to the the spacious spacious historic historic main main house, house, the the estate estate features features aa private private heated heated pool pool with with aa wealth during the "Jazz Age'. In addition to the spacious historic main house, the estate features a private heated pool with a bathhouse, bathhouse, oceanfront oceanfront conservatory, conservatory, private private beach beach and and stone stone beach beach house. house. bathhouse, oceanfront conservatory, private beach and stone beach house.

Book Book Today Today Book Book Today Book Today Today (207) (207) 321-1167 321-1167 321-1167 (207) 321-1167 (207) (207) 321-1167 garrisonfieldscapeelizabeth@gmail.com garrisonfieldscapeelizabeth@gmail.com garrisonfieldscapeelizabeth@gmail.com garrisonfieldscapeelizabeth@gmail.com garrisonfieldscapeelizabeth@gmail.com www.garrisonfield.com

sh n of ha

• • • • • • •

FREEPORT

No vacation in Maine is complete without a day trip to Freeport!

Get your photo taken next to the big boot at L.L.Bean and enjoy Maine’s one-of-a-kind shopping experience.

Enjoy a lobster lunch or some favorite outdoor camp recipes of “L.L.” across the street at his granddaughter’s Maine Kitchen & Topside Tavern. Outdoor patio, upper deck, or inside— a great place to refresh!

Go back in time at Freeport Antiques & Heirlooms Showcase, next to the historic L.L.Bean home. Over 40 Maine dealers display their exciting finds! All price ranges attract gift buying for special occasions and home/camp decoration. Outstanding heirloom jewelry, furnishings, clocks, nautical treasures, and rare books. New this year: vintage basement collectibles!

In a corner on the first floor is Linda Bean’s Maine Wyeth Gallery where by special family arrangement, you can purchase a rare signed Jamie Wyeth or Andrew Wyeth artwork, or a one-of-a kind N.C.Wyeth print. Upstairs, see the shop drawings for L.L.Bean’s iconic canvas and leather specialties created by Warren Bean, son of L.L.Bean, between years 1925-1950, including the famous Maine Boat & Tote Bag.

This will be a day like no other, and one you and your visiting guests will long remember!

LindaBeansPerfectMaine.com

88 Main Street 207 865 9835

31 Main Street 207 869 5091

ESCAPE ENDLESS ACTIVITIES IN NORTH CONWAY

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Daily nonstop flights to Boston and easy connections bring the people and places that matter most, closer.

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C I T Y

M A G A Z I N E

MAY

M A I N E ’ S

FROM LEFT: COURTESY FOUNTAINBLEAU MIAMI; COURTESY WHEELER YACHT COMPANY; JOHN ADORNEY; COVER: SARA HERTEL

31 8 From the Editor

“Tell Me Something Good” Interview from a vampire.

By Colin W. Sargent

10 Letters

MAINE LIFE 13 Chowder

A tasty blend of the Fabulous, the Eyebrow-Raising, and the Just Plain Wrong.

15 15 Launching Summer

Yar they are! Maine’s legendary yachts know how to party when they’re christened. Experience these vessels in celebration mode.

From Staff & Wire Reports

23 Green & Sexy

Maine-grown cannabiz: who’s in, who’s out in the summer of 2021.

From Staff & Wire Reports

31 Destination Vacationland

U.S. Route 1 by Airstream: Part 1: Key West to Columbia Learn what the locals think of Maine!

By Colin W. Sargent

13 ARTS & STYLE

FOOD & DRINK

41 Interview: LeAnn Rimes

54 Dining Guide

Big voice, big year—and she’s coming here!

By Colin W. Sargent 47 Now Playing Your complete arts and entertainment guide

HOMES & DESIGN 57 Talking Walls

“The Mystery of Moxie Mountain” Rustic undertones—not one but four lakefront fishing cabins for under $200,000!

From Staff & Wire Reports

55 Restaurant Review Jing Yan brings Asian fusion to Munjoy Hill.

By Diane Hudson

LAST WORDS 71 Spirit Sail

Creative nonfiction by Anne B. Zill

60 Maine Real Estate

Cover: Credit M AY 2 0 2 1 7

PORTLAND

|

WESTBROOK

EDITORIAL Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

I

(207) 774-5946 harmonsbartons.com

n this column, you hear from me plenty. So I asked members of our staff: “Tell me something I don’t know about you.”

Nicole Barna says, “I’ve hiked down to the waterfalls at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Who knew there were turquoise falls a hundred feet tall?” Imagine turning a corner in the desert, descending below the Canyon’s lip, hearing water you can’t yet see pounding into the Colorado River below.

Gwen Thompson says, “I’ve been to Kentucky three times—the first two by accident.

Driving to a writer’s conference in Indiana, I didn’t realize we’d taken the wrong exit on the Cincinnati roundabout until the signs started saying Kentucky. The next time, some college friends and I celebrated so much at a wedding in New Orleans that we took a wrong turn driving back to Maine the morning after and wound up in Kentucky again!” Third time?

“Don’t ask.”

Jesse Stenbak: “When I was at the Art Institute of Seattle, I proposed to my wife, Tori, on a park bench with views of Puget Sound. I can still see it in my mind’s eye.” A place of dearness, a querencia. “We were starting something new as the old Seattle Kingdome was being torn down beside us.”

Jenny Lord says, “Here’s something you don’t know, because I just did it this weekend.

I’ve just started seedlings.” Of what? “Cosmos, zinnias, hollyhocks.” They’re going to explode with color this summer.

“I was a day bartender in Georgetown,” Per Lofving says. “We opened at 8 a. m.” Tells you all you need to know about Washington, D. C. “Nearly every morning, the same three men came in when we opened up: a Washington Post columnist, a police officer, and a senator.”

Three men walk into a bar. Per still remembers their go-to drinks: “The columnist had a vodka and grapefruit juice, the cop had a beer, and the senator had a Manhattan.” With or without the bright red maraschino cherry? “With.” Who was the senator? “John Warner.” With or without Liz? “Without.”

Meaghan Maurice grew up exploring summers on rocky Chebeague Island. “I got my first stitches when I was five. I wanted to see how far I could walk with my eyes closed.”

Now it’s your turn. Some of you have been reading Portland Monthly for 35 years. We go way back together. Tell us something we don’t know about you. Write to editor@portlandmonthly.com.

RHONDA FARNHAM

584 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

Tell Me Something Good

8 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

EXTRAORDINARY PERSPECTIVE

165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-0101 www.portlandmagazine.com www.portlandmonthly.com Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com ART & PRODUCTION Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Bailey Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com ADVERTISING Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Per Lofving Advertising Executive per@portlandmonthly.com EDITORIAL Gwen Thompson Assistant Editor gwen@portlandmonthly.com Sofia Voltin Contributing Editor sofia@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ ACCOUNTING Jennifer Lord Controller jennifer@portlandmonthly.com INTERNS Matthew Mallary, Emma Saletta SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe please send your address and a check for $35* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews.

Portland Magazine, a.k.a. Portland Monthly Magazine, is published

by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All cor­re­spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-0101.

Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Jennifer Lord.

Newsstand Cover Date: May 2021, published in April 2021, Vol. 36, No. 3, copyright 2021. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 10731857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers.

Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment.

Portland Magazine is proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing.

Portland Magazine is the winner of 75 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design. In 2018, the magazine won two National Association of Real Estate Editors medals for editorial excellence.

S A R G E N T

PUBLISHING, INC.

M AY 2 0 2 1 9

LETTERS editor@portlandmonthly.com AGAZINE PORTLAND M

G FRONTIERS O W N | FA R M I N UTE BRIDAL G W W I I PA R A C H

APRIL 2021

Complete Treats Half Shell on the

O. 2 VO LU M E 3 6 , N

DEEP SPACE I want to thank you for Dan Kany mentioning my work in his well-written article [“The Fuel of Influence,” Feb./March 2021] and thank you for your interest in my work.

I’m honored to have Corey [of Corey Daniels Gallery, Wells] share it with clients who appreciate the spatial experience.

Oliver W. Solmitz, Waterville PHOTO-BOMBED BUNKER Members of my band were in a picture featuring the bunker on Great Diamond Island [“A Walk on the Wild Side,” FM 2021].

Is there a way to obtain a copy?

Terri I. Deletetsky, Boston, MA It’s in the mail.–Ed MANY-SIDED NOSTALGIA Several years ago you featured Wiscasset’s Octagon House as the magazine’s [House of the Month: “Eight Sides Now,” May 2004].

Great pictures and text! I was born and grew up in the house, living there for over a decade. I have over the years misplaced my copies and am suddenly at the age of 77 wanting to pass all things Octagon on to my family. Would you have back issues going back that far?

James Colby, Cape Elizabeth CHILDHOOD SOUNDTRACK Beautifully written [interview with Dan Fogelberg’s wife Jean, “Wild Child,” April 2010]!

I grew up hearing his music, because my sweet mother loved it. Lost her a while back, so this is a very sweet reminder of her and the music that filled our home growing up.

Tonia Morales, Sandy, UT 10 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Your key to the good life.

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Visit us online cascobay.evrealestate.com or at a shop near you and let us help you follow your dream, home.

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©2019 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principles of the Fair Housing Act.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: TRAVELLER.COM; COURTESY UNE; POWER AND COMPANY BUILDERS; STEWART RIVER BOATWORKS. FLIGHT INFO VIA FLIGHTCONNECTIONS.COM/FLIGHTS-TO-PORTLAND-PWM

Now We’re Going Places A burst of nonstop connections to and from Portland International Jetport (PWM) will make this summer a blast. Here’s the complete list.

American Airlines: Charlotte CLT, Chicago ORD, Dallas-Fort Worth DFW, Miami MIA, New York City LGA, Phila-

FACTCHECKING THE URBAN MYTH Is it us, or has there been more wildlife roaming the streets during COVID? It’s you, says Scott Lindsay of the Department of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife. “Whether this is indicative of an actual increase in numbers of wildlife or whether this is a function of more people seeing more animals because they are spending more time at home during daylight hours is difficult to discern.”

delphia PHL, Washington DCA Cape Air: Boston BOS Delta: Atlanta ATL, Detroit DTW, Minneapolis-St. Paul MSP,

New York City JFK, New York City LGA Elite Airways: Vero Beach VRB Frontier Airlines: Fort Myers RSW, Orlan-

do MCO, Tampa TPA JetBlue: New York City JFK Southwest Airlines: Baltimore-Washington BWI, Chicago MDW

Sun Country Airlines: Minneapolis-St. Paul MSP United Airlines: Chicago ORD, Cincinnati CVG, Cleveland CLE, Columbus CMH, Denver DEN, Indianapolis IND, Milwaukee MKE, New York EWR, Pittsburgh PIT, Washington IAD

Not Just a Pretty Hull Their 17-foot length and broader beam custom-designed for maximum stability in the typical wavelengths of Kennebago Lake aren’t the only reason the 32 cedar lapstrake Rangeley Guide Boats at Grant’s Kennebago Camps are a fisherman’s best friend. According to owner John Blunt, “Fish big enough to brag about catching know the drill. They’ll dive deep if they hear waves slapping against the hull of an aluminum boat.”

1 in 30 Million

Meet Banana, a rare yellow lobster from Tenants Harbor now residing at the University of New England. According to Dr. Markus Frederich, “The color of lobsters is caused by several different proteins. If one of the proteins is not expressed due to a genetic mutation, then the other colors become dominant.

In Banana’s case, a mutation makes the darker colors no longer expressed.”

M AY 2 0 2 1 1 3

“THIS IS WHAT WE CAME TO MAINE FOR.” Experience Maine’s maritime culture – 20 acres of open space to explore.

Maine MaritiMe MuseuM 243 Washington Street

•

Bath, Maine

•

207-443-1316

•

www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

FROM TOP: COURTESY ROCKLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY; COURTESY BLUSHIFT AEROSPACE

WAT ERFRON T

Launching Summer W

hy, in the hoary lore and legend of the sea, is it bad luck to have a woman on board ship but highly de sirable to have a lucky lady christen a new vessel with a magnum of champagne at launch?

BIG SENDOFF, SMALL FRY Even a tiny-fish-cargo workhorse is in party mode on the day she debuts. Mary Anne was the first refrigerated sardine carrier, bubbling chilled salt water and air up through the hundred-ton load of baby herring in the hold. Here, Mary Pike (photo above) christens her in 1947 at the Newbert and Wallace shipyard in Thomaston as envious sister Anne Sleight Pike looks on. It

Eat, Pray, Swing

doesn’t hurt when your dad, Lubec “sardine millionaire” Moses Bernard Pike, owns the

new ship.

No word on how many wharf cats watched the ceremony.

ROCKET MAINE Three cheers this year for Maine’s first rocket launch, led by Maine native Sasha Deri! (left, with Stardust 1.0). Brunswickbased BluShift Aerospace celebrated the icy ceremony in January from its launching pad at the former Loring Air Force Base in Limestone. The biofuel rocket reached 4,000 feet and “carried a science project

by Falmouth High School students that will measure flight metrics such as barometric pressure, a special alloy that’s being tested by a New Hampshire company— M AY 2 0 2 1 1 5

and a Dutch dessert called stroopwafel, in an homage to its Amsterdam-based parent company,” according to Yahoo! News.

Y

es, but was a bottle of champagne swung across the fuselage, and did it pair well with stroopwafel, two wafer cookies with a cinnamon-caramel filling? “We definitely had an evening celebration in Limestone after the launch! We did not hit it against the rocket—we had the champagne later. It was like 10 degrees below zero,” says media relations exec Betta Stothart. “I don’t know what kind of cham-

pagne it was. It was really cheap champagne, just bought at the local Limestone grocery store—Mike’s Family Market. We were staying in a cool little hotel called the Bunker Inn. They brought us stem glasses and coffee mugs.

“The launch after-party included the team and members of the BBC. They were up in Limestone with us for three days. We were hunkered down at the Bunker in subzero temperatures.

“It was definitely a moment. I know that Sascha took that moment to thank everybody on his team—many of whom have

not been paid yet to get this rocket off the ground—for the fact that they were able to launch it on biofuel on a subzero day. It was so cold we couldn’t keep a charge for our communications devices! One of our engineers had to climb up on the rocket multiple times. With the wind chill it had to have been twenty below, and here was this young engineer, Luke Saindon from Deer Isle, in his twenties, up on the rocket, harnessed in with a rope” (bottom left).

In the icy cold, that’ll light anyone’s fire.

MAKE MINE WITH ICE hen the arctic explorer Donald MacMillan’s auxiliary schooner Bowdoin was launched, “It was during Prohibition, and alcohol was illegal,” writes Mary Morton Cowan in

W 16 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LLEFT: MAINE DOT; MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM; ROCKLAND HISTORICAL SOCIETY; COURTESY BLUESHIFT AEROSPACE

The new Maine State Ferry Service boat Captain Richard G. Spear launched three weeks ago at Washburn and Doughty shipyard in East Boothbay and carries up to 23 cars and 250 passengers daily between Rockland and Vinalhaven.–Maine DOT.

WATE R F R O NT

d to

d’s Big

Mo

Captain Mac: The Life of Donald Baxter MacMillan, Arctic Explorer. “May [Fogg] couldn’t break a bottle of champagne over the bow, which is the usual maritime tradition. ‘I stood at the bow…and I threw flowers overboard.’”

Lovers of the Far North were lucky to be invited to this gala on April 9, 1921 at Hodgdon Brothers in East Boothbay, today the builders of superyachts for clients across the globe. As the Bowdoin Orient observed, “Last Saturday at noon Professor MacMillan’s sturdy little schooner in which he will dare the perils of the wilderness of the north slipped into the water. Miss May Fogg of Freeport, a niece of Dr. MacMillan, christened her Bowdoin, and as she slipped down the ways the band struck up ‘Bowdoin Beata.’ Many loyal voices joined in the song, and cheer after cheer greeted the boat of which so much is expected.”

Nineteen-year-old May Fogg was the perfect choice to christen the Bowdoin, more like a little sister than a niece to MacMillan. From his teens, he grew

B

ck dog la

g M ar a re t

Launched at Bath Iron Works in 1930, Corsa ir IV was the largest yacht ever built in the U. S.

lly

G i v i n g b e l o v e d s a i l s n e w l i f e o n s h o r e .

One-of-a-kind bags and pillows made at the North Sails loft in South Freeport, Maine.

The merry Mary Anne.

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WAT ERF RO N T

www. mainehardware. c o m

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up in the Fogg house at 178 Main Street in Freeport, when his mom ran out of money after his dad was lost at sea fishing off the Grand Banks. Perhaps losing his father to the sea triggered something deep in Macmillan that impelled him to go north for scientific exploration. On an unconscious level, he may have been looking for his father.

Fun fact: May went on several voyages north with Admiral MacMillan, and not just as a passenger—she took the helm!

BLOOD, SWEAT & TEARS he U. S. Navy’s Aegis guided missile destroyer The Sullivans had two very different launch parties. The daylight launch was on 12 August 1995, and the sponsor was Kelly Ann Sullivan Loughren, the granddaughter of World War II hero Albert Sullivan, one of the five eponymous brothers who perished when their ship, USS Juneau, was sunk by a Japanese submarine in November 1942 in the Naval Battle of Guadalcanal.

The after-hours version came “a little after 4 a.m. on February 12,” when peace activist and Roman Catholic priest Philip Francis Berrigan and other members of the protest group Plowshares 6 ran past the watch section on board The Sullivans and splashed blood on its weapons. Berrigan wanted to demonstrate against the deadly power of a ship “that has the firepower to vaporize life on the continent,” he told us in 1997 from his prison cell at Cumberland County Jail after incarceration. “Most of the young sailors were asleep. We tried to bluff our way aboard, but the four watchstanders said we had to have IDs. We kept coming, and the four of them stopped three of us, including me, and detained us near the helo hangar. The other three of us continued. Blood is a biblical symbol of life.

We ensured none of us had AIDS. We

2 74 s t john st, portland // 20 7-773 -56 0 4 s u n 9am -5pm // mon-fri 7am-6pm // s a t 8a m -6 pm

Raise your glass (and the sails)

We welcome HESPER to our private charter fleet

The launch of Legend (see photo in this issue’s Table of Contents), modeled after Hemingway’s Pilar (see “Launch Party” in SG20), was a bright spot in September 2020.

local sights & tastes at a safe distance CascoBayCustomCharters.com 18 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

(207) 205-5796

FROM LEFT: BOWDOIN ARCTIC MUSEUM; SABRE YACHTS

T

wouldn’t ever hurl blood at another human being. Security is a myth. No human being can protect an omnicidal weapon like that.

That’s one of the points we were making.”

PIRATE TREASURE ohn Pierpoint Morgan’s opulent yacht Corsair IV was launched at Bath Ironworks in 1930. She was a cat with nine lives, including service as a Navy ship during World War II. Most spectacular was her eventual demise as a cruise ship south of the border.

According to the New York Social Diary website, “The Corsair, during one of her autumn Mexican Riviera cruises, struck a rock and beached at Acapulco. Her crew and 55 passengers were put ashore in lifeboats. There was no loss of life. Examined by her owners, the former Morgan yacht was determined to be a total constructive loss, and abandoned to Davy Jones’ locker…The Corsair’s legacy lives on only for divers willing to explore the remains of the vessel deep in the warm seas off Acapulco.”

When Corsair IV was about to make its first big splash, “Jack Morgan Junior hired

Maine

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Let the Carousel Marina Make your day!

Ap ril 1 - M a y 2 9

The Painted State II 146 Middle St., Portland, ME • (207) 772-2693 • info@greenhutgalleries.com • greenhutgalleries.com M AY 2 0 2 1 1 9

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WAT ERF RO N T

Fogg’s Water Taxi & Charters is pleased to present our newest addition: The Casco Bay Cat !

We built this boat to cater to medium-sized parties. With a total capacity of 49 passengers; the Casco Bay Cat is the perfect vessel to tour the bay. It is equipped with a head, a great sound system, and plenty of seating inside and outside.

Give us a call today to schedule your charter!

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The 1931 launch of Maine’s paper and novelty publishing magnate Hugh J. Chisholm Jr.’s yacht Aras (his wife Sara’s name spelled backwards) was no doubt a lower-key affair because it was built for $2M (that’s a lot of postcards) by Bath Iron Works in the teeth of the Great Depression. She was sold 10 years later to the Navy for $250,000 for gunboat and staffship duty and later relaunched as Truman’s and Eisenhower’s presidential yacht USS Williamsburg.

three private railway cars which were filled with family and friends, and transported them all [to] the Bath Iron Works Maine shipyards for the grand occasion,” according to SSmaritime.com. “The launching was a great event and was covered by all the media of the day, considering the Great Depression had already begun.”

Warning: Not to be confused with Captain Morgan rum. n

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MA D E I N M A IN E

COMPOSITE PHOTO BY MEAGHAN BAILEY

Green & Sexy Just how potent is the potential for Maine-grown cannabis?

F

ive years ago, we were writing about ice wine. Our extraordinary climate makes this unusual product even more singular here.

Now we’ve shifted our rudder. Cannabis became legal by referendum for recreational use, retail sale, and taxation in 2016,

FROM STAF F & WIRE REPORTS

and the first licenses for recreational, or adult-use, cannabis businesses were issued in September 2020, with purchasing becoming legal for those 21 and over as of last October. This welcome sea change has let Maine’s original eight non-profit medical dispensaries (one per Maine DHHS Health

District) bloom into 623 medical providers, 3,084 registered caregivers, and 4,791 registered caregiver employees and assistants as of March 2021, with cumulative adult-use retail sales since last October totaling $13,052,671 as we rush into summer.

The hitch is–even if you have a license, you M AY 2 0 2 1 2 3

M ADE IN M AINE must grow your cannabis in Maine in order to sell it in Maine. In fields, in warehouses, in basements.

YELPING MAINE’S HEMP The exciting prospect is, the first Maine cannabis wave is being released! Now how about the reviews? We know our seafood is spectacular. What’s up with our weed?

Where’s the good stuff, and how inventively is it being geolocated (when you’re getting buzzed, you can use buzz words!) and presented? For example, Shipyard Brewing Company, in partnership with Brothers Cannabis of Bangor, has a brew with no alcohol in it–just pot. They already had Pumpkinhead wheat ale. Their new product is Pumpkinhead THC Elixir. Maine’s new bespoke commodity deserves to be judged in terms of quality and community.

Community? Almost every telephone number for a cannabis firm in Maine is a cell phone. That is so Maine!

WEED HAS LANDED So is the fierce pride in these new products.

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MAINE’S NEW GREEN DEAL Matt Jellison, general manager of Brothers, says, “It’s only available to adults. Our product is remarkable. It’s super strong in quality. It’s an amazing product across the board.

We supply to Room 5, Coastal Cannabis Company [in Damariscotta], and Jar Co. [in Windham]. Up north our edibles are being done by Full Bloom Cannabis [in Fort Kent].

Please understand, we don’t grow our own flower. We purchase from northern Maine, southern Maine, coastal Maine, and all the way to the ski mountains in western Maine.”

That’s rather patriotic: We shall defend Maine’s cannabis, whatever the cost may be.

We shall smoke on the beaches, we shall relax on the landing grounds, we shall party in the fields and in the streets, we shall hemp the hills. We shall never surrender.

“I’m 43,” Jellison says. “I went to Brewer High School, then UMO, where I studied English. I was going to be an English major and was thrown a couple of curve balls.” This summer is a slider. “It’s serendipitous timing.”

Cannabis isn’t just here to stay–it’s here to have its say.

This is just a small selection of what Maine’s cannabis industry--both medicinal and recreational--has to offer, as many businesses expand their selections and open new locations.

See our Online Extras for a bigger sampling!

DISPENSARIES 1 Mill, Belfast American ReLeaf, Bangor Atlantic Farms, Portland B&B Cultivation, Raymond Beach Boys Cannabis Company, South Portland Beach Health Center, Old Orchard Beach Black Tie Cannabis, Greene Brothers Cannabis, Bangor Caniba Naturals, Farmington Canuvo, Biddeford CBD Warehouse & Coffee Shop, Oakland Coastal Cannabis Co., Damariscotta Cure Cannabis Company, Auburn Earthly Delights of Maine, Manchester Elevate Maine, Yarmouth Farley’s Cannabis Farm, Woolwich Fire On Fore, Portland Firestorm Cannabis Company, Bangor Flowers Farmacy, Waterville Full Bloom Cannabis, Fort Kent Grass Roots Marijuana Shop, Portland Great Atlantic Puffin Company, Fryeburg

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Hi-Lo Dispensary, Poland High Hopes Cannabis, Steuben High Wire Hydroponics, Raymond HighNorth By Wellness Connection, South Portland Higher Grounds, Portland Highly Cannaco, Boothbay Holistic Alternatives, Woolwich Jar Co., Windham Kind & Co., Windham Lisbon Cannabis Company, Lisbon Falls MAC Maine’s Alternative Caring, Windham Maine Cannabis Exchange, South Portland Maine Made Greens, Scarborough Maine Only Cannabis Shop, Bridgton Maine Organic Therapy, Lamoine Mainely Medical, Scarborough Moosehead Farms, Bethel Nature’s Miracle, South Berwick Nature’s Summit, Dresden New England Reserve, Old Town Northland Botanicals, Stratton Norumbega Provisions, South Portland Paul’s Boutique Nursery, Windham Potluck Joint Relief, Westbrook SeaWeed Co., Portland Strawberry Fields Apothecary, Lewiston Sweet Dirt, Portland The Gas Station, Limerick The Healing Community MEDCo, Lewiston

Tier 1 Extracts, Lebanon Wellness Connection of Maine, Portland PRODUCTS 207 Edibles, Lisbon Falls 207THC, Lewiston Anoids, Portland Crystal Spring Healing Alternatives, Lewiston Finest Kind Medicinals, Waldoboro Grass Monkey Cannabis Company, South Portland High & Mighty Maine Craft Cannabis, Steuben High Peak Cannabis Co., Portland Medible Delights, Lewiston Port City Relief, Scarborough DELIVERY OR PICKUP All Kind, Portland Alternative Essence, Windham Green Truck Farms, North Berwick Hazy Hill Farm, Portland Highbrow, Manchester Indico, Kittery Maple Valley Pharms, Waterville FARMS AND GARDEN CENTERS Cannabis Culture Co. & Farm, South Portland Schoppee Farm, Machias Sheepscot General, Whitefield Grass Root Grower, Augusta –Compiled by Jesse Stenbak

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of 2!

1 t r a P

n a i t t i s o e n D

ROA D WA RRIO R

Vac d ationlan Key Wes t to

am e r t rs Fort Kent on S. Route 1 by Ai U.

The first leg of a 2,369-mile listening tour.

K

B Y COLIN W. SARG EN T

ey West, Florida, and Fort Kent, Maine, are both the end of the road. Both claim Mile Zero on U.S. Route 1. The only way to understand Route 1 is to drive it yourself.

If you’re lucky, you have a shiny Airstream pulled behind you, in our case a 16-foot Airstream Bambi trailer. No need M AY 2 0 2 1 3 1

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he scope of the project dazzles. Mile Zero in Key West is just 50 miles from Cuba. Yet the complete directions from Portland are: “Head south on Route 1, Mister Man.” Our awesome Airstream adventure is the product of more than a year of online bookings.

Hang on, we’re headed for a wicked ride!

FIRST THINGS FIRST We’d be crazy not to fuel up at Key West Cuban Coffee, 517 Truman Avenue (near

“ It’s strong Cuban espresso, my love.”

the Truman Annex, a redeveloped former Naval Air Station owned by Maine real-estate mogul Pritam Singh). Coffee slinger Carolina Calderon has never described Cuban coffee to someone from Maine before. “It’s a strong Cuban espresso, my love.

You need to try it yourself.” Is it rocket fuel?

“Yes, my love. But you have to try it yourself.” I close my eyes and swallow. I feel a rush through my whole body. I’m walking on air. Everything is possible. Even this drive. How does she compare it to Italian espresso? “It’s stronger, my love.” And sweeter. Has she ever been to Maine? “No, my love.”

ONE FOR THE ROAD Bar none, Ernest Hemingway’s favorite hangout in Key West was Sloppy Joe’s. “It was launched in 1933, the day after Prohibition was over,” says Donna Edwards, the bar’s

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brand manager. Hemingway even helped suggest the name.

Maine painter Waldo Peirce was another larger-than-life habitué whose spirit echoes between these walls. He and Hemingway were best friends—just like Maine and Key West. Edwards knows Waldo Peirce’s work well. “Silver Slipper, which was next door to Sloppy Joe’s, is a great illustration” of Key West during the pre-War days.

In particular, Peirce’s masterwork Sloppy Joe’s knocks her out. “This, with Big Skinner bartending and the cat on the bar-this is a wonderful painting. It really captures the characters of Key West. Switch out the clothing to T-shirts and flip-flops, and nothing much has changed.” Hem appears on the lower right. Peirce, in pith helmet, spills his heart on his sleeve. Alluring Alzira Peirce, Waldo’s wife and a Maine painter herself, sips on a green fairy.

“Sloppy Joe’s does not serve Cuban coffee,” Edwards says. “Papa would have preferred something stronger.” For example: Papa Doble “Papa’s Favorite!”

Fill a 12/14 oz. glass with ice and add the following: 1.5 oz. Bacardi silver

FROM TOP: COURTESY SLOPPY JOE’S, “SLOPPY JOES” BY WALDO PEIRCE

to flip a coin for north to south vs. south to north. Who doesn’t want to end up in Maine in the summer?

grapefruit juice splash of sour mix splash of grenadine squeeze of fresh lime Pour into shaker and shake to combine.

Pour contents of shaker over ice in 12/14 oz. glass.

Top with dash of club soda.

Sloppy Joe’s Hemingway Mojito featuring Papa’s Pilar® rum In a 12/14 oz. glass muddle together fresh mint, fresh lime, and simple syrup.

Add ice and 1.5 oz. Papa’s Pilar® rum.

Pour into cocktail shaker with ice and shake to combine.

Pour into 12/14 oz. glass filled with ice.

Top with club soda.

THE OLD MEN AND THE SEIZURE loppy Joe’s 40th Annual Hemingway® Look-Alike Contest was cancelled in 2020 due to the pandemic. We are hopeful the event will happen July 22-24, 2021. Generally over 150 Hemingway look-alikes compete in our contest every year, with only one being named Papa each July.”

Many travelers also celebrate here after making the famous Route 1 drive. Edwards seems particularly intrigued by our passage north. “I have not been to Maine, although I would like to make the journey to the other end of the road one day, say in August. For me, dreaming of cooler weather is temps in the 60s—anything below 59 is cold.”

“S

READY, SET, GO! A webcam set on the corner of Whitehead Street and Fleming Street in Key West captures images of travelers hi-fiving at Mile 0 after making the trip from north to south.

But we’re driving against the tide, heading for Key Largo in the upper Keys, turquoise water on both sides of our car as we cruise above the Gulf of Mexico on the Overseas Highway.

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SWEET RIDE Tied up directly beside Route 1 in Key Largo is a tourist attraction you can’t miss. It’s the African Queen—direct from the 1951 movie directed by John Huston and starring Katharine Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart, who cut his teeth as a young actor on Maine summer stages inM AY 2 0 2 1 3 3

“T

he African Queen is on Mile Marker 100,” says Suzanne Holmquist, who runs the show here with her husband, Captain Lance Holmquist. Constructed in Lytham, England in 1912, this Queen began life as a workhorse for the East Africa British Railways company. “Our 1.5 hour trip is $59 plus tax. We do four trips a day. It’s a canal cruise that goes through the Port Largo system in Key Largo.”

“And just to be sure—this is the real boat from the movie?”

“Yes, we have the original boat. I’ve actually met the man who brought it back from Africa with his father.”

“Weren’t two boats used for shooting?”

“There were two models made. It’s funny, my friend owns a rum company called Pusser’s Rum. He collects film memorabilia. They have one of the models used in the film at his restaurant in Annapolis, Maryland. But this is the original. I joke with him—I have the Queen and he has the model.”

The original African Queen “was used to shuttle cargo, missionaries, and hunting parties across the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert, which was located on the border

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between the Belgian Congo and Uganda,” according to www.africanqueenflkeys.com.

Do film stars stop by for a ride? “One is Christian Slater. Another is Humphrey Bogart’s son Stephen Bogart,” who said, ‘This is like being on a movie set’

“This is like being on a movie set.”

—Stephen Bogart on the African Queen when he took the old girl out for a spin.”

(See him at the helm: www.youtube.com/ watch?v=fiHPaNktEGM.) “You’re our first stop,” I say to Suzanne.

“I guess you can see why we’ve begun in the Keys and are heading to Maine, where it’s a bit cooler this time of year.”

“Oh, Maine! It does get hot in the summer here. It goes to ninety, ninety-one. I’m from Glasgow, Scotland, so I dream about snow and rain all the time.”

For a waterfront RV hook-up, we recommend Site 63 at Key Largo Kampground & Marina. Two nights for $130.

MIAMI: SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED It’s a breezy 70 miles from Key Largo to Mi-

WHERE THE BOYS ARE wenty-eight miles up the coast from Miami Beach is Fort Lauderdale.

Remember George Hamilton in the 1960 movie? He played the rebellious young rich kid on spring break. Fifty-six years later, he played a corrupt former congressman in a movie filmed on Monhegan Island: The Congressman, by screenwriter Robert Mrazek, a former five-term congressman from Long Island, New York, and a resident of Monhegan. Maybe I’ll watch it on my Airstream DVD player tonight. Being

T

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: COURTESY FOUNTAINBLEAU MIAMI (2); COURTESY AFRICAN QUEEN; COURTESY PHOTOS(4); COLONY HOTEL

cluding Lakewood Theater.

ami Beach, and the retail lineup along the way is pure theater. Want to see the hotel where the girl was painted gold in the 1964 James Bond movie? The Fontainebleau is directly to your right, its mid-century architecture virtually unchanged since it was the setting for Goldfinger.

What are you doing? You mean you actually want to have lunch here?

“You can park at the public parking lot a block and a half away,” says the valet parking manager, “beside the Eden Roc Hotel.

If you take up two parking spaces, just pay for two.”

“It’s a five-minute walk or less,” says concierge Maria Marchi, who helps me get my bearings. “In Miami, U.S. 1 is Biscayne Boulevard—we’re parallel, on Collins Avenue.” With sweeping ocean views, “Collins Avenue is technically Route A1A.” Fantastic. I’m having sparkling Mediterranean fare at La Côte (pictured).

ROA D WA RRIO R in an RV is an astounding way to be in two places at once.

PALMY DAYS From Fort Lauderdale, it’s 26 miles until you reach Delray Beach. Along the way, let your eyes roll up the sides of the glassy oceanfront retail towers of Pompano Beach and Boca Raton. You know you’ve made it when you reach the Colony Hotel Delray Beach, the sister hotel to Kennebunkport’s Colony Hotel. I’ll admit, I adore both.

For an Airstream gypsy, it’s a huge plus that the Colony in Delray has “free uncovered self-parking on the site.” So you’re covered. Still, hands free, I call ahead to make sure.

Natalie Rochester, from St. Elizabeth, Jamaica, is at the front desk. “Yes, you can do that!”

“Ever been to Maine, to the Colony’s sister hotel in Kennebunkport?”

“No!” “What’s the closest you’ve ever been

to Maine?”

“Right here!”

I can’t imagine a more convenient place to park an RV when you need a break from it than right beside a historic hotel with a cultural vibe. Check in, let the Airstream cool down, and spend the night in the hotel yourself. Like the late, great Leonard Nimoy (see “Welcome to My Camp,” Feb./ March 2021), you’ll love the 1920s Florida décor and appreciate the in-town cool here.

For a nightcap, ride the shuttle to the Colony’s dreamy beachside geothermal saltwater pool for the most romantic night swim of your life. When you wake up the next morning, you’ll be refreshed and ready for your oceanside drive 276 miles up the coast to St. Augustine, the oldest city in our country.

“ Oldest city in the U.S.? We’ve been using that claim since the Civil War!” PULL OVER! Right across the Indian River Lagoon from Route 1 is where the Sea Bags Sailing Team from Portland Yacht Club took fourth place in the 2017 J/24 Midwinter Championship at Eau Gallie Yacht Club.

Here’s the view:

WE ARE NOT DOING THIS h, yes we are! There is no known Airstream speed record at Daytona Beach. If not you, who? If not now, when? Vehicles emphatically are allowed to drive on the legendary hard-pan beach from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. through October 31, for $20 per vehicle per day. How is driving on a beach possible? There’s a fivemile stretch with 26 access points that’s five hundred feet wide at low tide, according to the beach’s website. Experience driving on the sand yourself on a virtual tour: www. daytonabeach.com/things-to-do/beaches/ driving-on-the-beach/ Note to the filmographer: The car in your movie is being tailgated by the guy behind.

Note to drivers: Be sure to drive through a car wash immediately after doing this. Driving through ocean waves doesn’t count!

O

ANCIENT EVENINGS When did I first learn St. Augustine was America’s oldest city? Like Jamal in Slum Dog Millionaire, I’ve lived all my answers in a prior life as a Navy midshipman, riding with fifty other middies in a nonstop bus from Annapolis to Jacksonville and then Pensacola to learn more about naval aviation as a career path. All of us were dead asleep, as usual, when a sharp, agitated M AY 2 0 2 1 3 5

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ldest city in the United States—we’ve been using that claim since the Civil War!” says Charles Tingley, research librarian at the St. Augustine Historical Society. “The real story is, we’re the oldest city in the continental United States, because San Juan, Puerto Rico, is older.

“St. Augustine was established in 1565

by Spanish admiral Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, the first governor and captain general of Florida. He chose the name [of the city] as so many Spanish and Portuguese explorers did: for the closest holiday to when he first spotted it.” St. Augustine, the patron saint of brewers and printers, died on August 28, 430 A.D. “It’s interesting to peel things back. Columbus spotted

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“A lot of people ignore that not only were the Spanish here in Florida first, there was a Spanish-Jesuit mission close to Jamestown, Virginia, in the 1570s.” the Virgin Islands on the Feast of [Eleven] Thousand Virgins. Key West is an exception, a corruption of Bone Key, Cayo Hueso. The oldest house in St. Augustine is the Gonzalez-Alvarez House, built circa 1720.

Older houses were destroyed in the British attack of 1702, when residents hid out in the Castillo de San Marcos. The British burned the city when they left. As for the oldest church here, “There is a chapel in the Castillo, but it was never sanctified. It was built in the 1740s. The current Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine was started in 1792 and finished in 1797.”

Civilization is all about layers, even on Route 1. “A lot of people ignore that not only were the Spanish here in Florida first [among European explorers], there was a Spanish-Jesuit mission close to Jamestown, Virginia, in the 1570s. You cannot understand the history of the Southeast until you understand the conflict between the British and Spanish claims. When Charles II first gave the charter of the Carolina colony, he extended its boundaries below St. Augustine, just assuming that John and Sebastian Cabot had explored that far south.

You can’t consider any aspect of history in a vacuum.”

And U. S. Route 1 runs through it.

We stay at North Beach Camp Resort in St. Augustine, with both river and ocean views available. We unhitch, transfer our Scottish terrier Dido to the car, and head out to recover another of my Navy memories: dinner at Whitey’s Fish Camp on Fleming Island in Doctor’s Lake, its rough-and-tumble beauty “The Place to Be Since 1963!” Whitey’s specializes in bayou boat rentals and serves up Swamp Onion Claws, Devil Crab, Buffalo Shrimp, and “All-U-Can-Eat” whole catfish—incredible nightmare food with a Pepto Bismol chaser.

Slide in before happy hour gets underway to score the gator tail with spicy ranch appetizer before it sells out.

Tonight when we get back to the RV camp, we’re going to watch Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (wistfully, because Route 1 tacks away from Savannah, Georgia, so we’ll miss it) and hit the hay. Instead of hugging the Atlantic coast as it heads north, Route 1 charts a course along the sandhills created during the Cretaceous Period, connecting the state capitals of Columbia, South Carolina, and Raleigh, North Carolina. By nightfall tomorrow we fully intend to be by the shores of Lake Murray in the Midlands outside Columbia.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: WHITEY FISH CAMP FLEMING ISLAND; NORTH BEACH CAMP RESORT BY LOUIS T; HUSK-CHARLESTON; B-52

voice woke us: “Sleep on if you like, gentlemen. But you’re missing what may be your only chance to see the oldest city in this country!” We groaned and turned the other way and missed three islands and a bay.

Don’t you love second chances? We all deserve them. This time, St. Augustine, I’m paying attention.

Where Has Where Recycling Recycling Has Always In Style Style Always Been Been In

Forget Me Nots Forget Me Nots Greater Portland’s Preferred Funeral Homes At Husk in Charleston: “If it doesn’t come from the South, it’s not coming through the door.” Think roasted oysters, glazed pigs’ ears, and fried chicken skins.pimento.

COLUMBIA, THE GEM OF THE…MOUNTAINS? t’s 367 miles (a serious drive) to Lake Murray—a 50,000-acre man-made reservoir—outside Columbia, the birthplace of gifted urban poet Terrance Hayes.

Since teaching poetry at the University of Southern Maine’s Stonecoast MFA Program in Creative Writing, he’s been awarded a MacArthur Foundation Genius Grant, become world famous, and is now a Professor of English at New York University. What you see depends on what you’re looking for.

Because we’d look for an RV camp with a water view in the Mojave Desert, we’ve scored a lakefront hookup at Jakes Landing Marina, where we can watch the purple evening sky fade into the past. The nearby former Columbia Army Air Base (on the site of the present-day Columbia Metropolitan Airport) is where Lieutenant Colonel James H. “Jimmy” Doolittle’s B-25 flight crews first trained for their top-secret air-raid mission against Japan in response to the bombing of Pearl Harbor, learning to take off from the floating postage stamp that is an aircraft carrier’s pitching and rolling flight deck

I

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ROA D WA P EO R R IPOLE R

Old Orchard Beach

ANDY NEWMAN, COURTESY SLOPPY JOE’S; CHARLESTON/MURRAY SOURCE: CHARLESTONCVB.COM/BLOG/BILL-MURRAY

July 22-24: The Hemingway Look-Alike Contest returns at Sloppy Joe’s.

by marking off the distance on the runway.

After Doolittle’s daring raid on Japan, as more B-25s practiced bombing runs here, a total of five ended up in the lake. Here’s a picture of one being lifted out in 2005.

Where am I going with this? Fort Kent, ultimately. But the closer Maine connection is that Portland actress Phyllis Thaxter stars opposite Van Johnson in the movie Thirty Seconds over Tokyo with Spencer Tracy as Lt. Col. Doolittle. Before she got starry-eyed, Thaxter grew up on Danforth Street, but culturally, she’s in South Carolina too: one of the stars in the lake, the lady of the lake.

U.S. Route 1 is intertemporal, its varied stretches carrying the spirit of the old King’s Highway, the Boston Post Road— even the Jefferson Davis Highway, the official name for most of Route 1 in South Carolina. I’ll go further: it’s haunted, and we all share a claim to its riches and embarrassments. There are jillions of McDonald’s and Dunkin’ Donuts on Route 1, but we aren’t just what we eat. We are what we travel—and more deeply, we are what we don’t understand. Across America’s time and distance, we have so much beauty to explore, and so many ghosts to raise or lay to rest. We mustn’t be satisfied to let what we don’t understand define us.

“NOT ALL WANDERERS ARE LOST.” —AIRSTREAM MOTTO U.S. Route 1 may be the longest drag strip of its kind in America, but it’s also the ultimate point of departure. We’ve been traveling together a while now, so I’m going to take some liberties. I will tell you sub rosa:

We're not just a campground we’re taking a 1 hour, 53 minute detour to Bill Murray’s house in the low country of Charleston, in spite of the fact that it’s not on Route 1. Murray is the last piece in this puzzle, so I’ve been calling him all morning. Do you think it’s my cell phone?

N

o matter. We’re sure to catch him at Harold’s Cabin, a restaurant and bar he co-owns with John Schumacher. Murray is also part owner of another restaurant, Rutledge Cab Company, and is known to dine from time to time at Husk, 76 Queen Street. Who doesn’t love their low-country food?

Our last-ditch option is simply to show up at his oceanfront home on Sullivan’s Island and say hi. It’s a bold plan, I know, but our 16-foot Airstream Bambi fits into almost anybody’s driveway, no problem, and the beauty of a gleaming Airstream mesmerizes on arrival.

(For our real RV campground destination in beautiful Charleston, see online extras.)

STRICTLY ROUTE 1 Back in Columbia, we resume our trip north with scrupulous precision, embarrassed by our off-the-rails celebrity spotting but fortified with shrimp and grits. We promise, we will proceed solemnly along Route 1 as Raleigh, North Carolina; Petersburg, Virginia; and Washington, D.C., explode across our windshield—figuratively, of course.

Come with us next month, in our big Summerguide issue, for our grand ascent to Fort Kent! n

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L IV E !

I N T E RV I E W :

LeAnn Rimes The Masked Singer, unmasked. She lights up Waterville Opera House September 17.

B Y COLIN W. SARG EN T

C

ongratulations on your creative explosion this year! Tell us about your upcoming album, God's Work, and where it's taking your music.

I am SO excited to share this new record with you. This album has been a while in the making, but I wanted to make sure it was perfect…The first tease to the record, “Throw My Arms Around The World,” is out now.

No one ever told me I wasn’t supposed to yodel.

What are the 10 most embarrassing seconds you've had while performing live—maybe an interruption where spontaneous and unanticipated forces played a role?

When we were doing a show in Nevada, the entire PA system went down, so my guitar player and I ended up sitting on the edge of the stage and singing the whole rest of the show like that…It was so special, I knew that was something the universe wanted to happen.

NORMAN SEEFF

It sounds like you've been craving live performances. What are the 10 most thrilling seconds you've had while performing live?

I think it would be a time where I get to connect the most to an audience.

During my holiday shows,

there is a section where we slow everything down and I lead the crowd through an ‘I LovE You’ practice. Watching as everyone places their hand on their heart as they tell themselves ‘I LovE You’ is unlike anything else. [The capital E in LovE is LeAnn’s tribute to her husband Eddie and the power of evolution.]

M AY 2 0 2 1 4 1

What goes on on Monhegan stays …

…with you.

What's the most ridiculous request you ever got from an audience member?

Hmm, I really can’t remember any ridiculous ones…I appreciate the intimacy of it all.

What's the most thoughtful audience request you ever got?

I have the best fans…hearing the audience say “I love you” is the best present.

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In a year full of masked singers because of the pandemic, you won FOX's Masked Singer contest. Who was most surprised you were the Masked Singer?

I’m not sure I had many people fooled. Most of my friends and family recognized my

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42 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

L IV E ! line [LeAnn’s Candles & Home Decor] with my voice, and the response was overwhelming. The candle chants then evolved into a full record [Chant: The Human & the Holy], which we released last year.

voice from the first note. The hardest part was keeping the secret all the way through to the final.

Maine is coyote beautiful. During COVID many wild animals have appeared in urban settings, coming out of the woods. What was the Coyote Ugly experience for you creatively, and how did it change you?

For me it was such a freeing experience.

I was always the young girl with the big voice, but for this record I was able to come out and be a woman. I feel very blessed to have been a part of it and to still be performing the tracks 20 years later.

NORMAN SEEFF

Not everybody can yodel. You really can! Did somebody teach you? What do you say when people ask you how you do it?

It’s wild, I just somehow knew how to yodel from the get-go. Maybe after I

heard “Cattle Call,” I could just sing along to it. I mean, no one ever told me as a little girl that I wasn’t supposed to be able to yodel.

Tell us how chanting became an inspiration for recording.

I started meditating in my early thirties, but this really came into focus when I started learning about frequencies and the power sound frequency can have on a person. As I learned more, I started infusing my candle

The entire PA system went down, so my guitar player and I ended up sitting on the edge of the stage and singing the whole rest of the show like that.

Coastal camping that puts you close to it all.

“Best in the Mid-Coast,” a short drive from Boothbay, Augusta, Portland and Freeport!

Where do you get your inspirations? Do you go out walking after midnight like Patsy, or is there a place that recharges you? uring this past year, I’ve been most inspired by nature. I try to carve time into every day just to sit outside and be still and breathe.

D

When the poet Dylan Thomas was praised for writing "Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night," he said, "I didn't write it. Yeats wrote it."

Have you ever had an out-of-body experience like that, writing?

I understand exactly what Dylan Thomas is saying—pulling out little surprises to bring into the world and never forgetting that they are a gift. I never forget that songs are gifts.

What song would you tinker with from your

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“The loneliest song I will sing is ‘Secret Garden’ by Bruce Look for us on FortKnoxMaine.com and Facebook Find us just off US Route 1 near Bucksport

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Springsteen.” album Blue after 25 years? We know painters who can't resist altering a painting they've finished decades before, even if someone else owns it! If you could sneak back into that record, what would you do?

We started to do this with some of the tracks already on my Re-Imagined EP. This featured a ballad version of “One Way Ticket” and a duet of “Borrowed” with Stevie Nicks. I would love to work on a part two— that’s in the pipeline for sure.

What is the loneliest song you sing, and is it hard to perform in public?

I think my favorite songs to sing are the sad ones. I just gravitate toward them. Probably the loneliest song I will sing is “Secret Garden” by Bruce Springsteen. On stage I almost never, ever get through singing it without sobbing.

How can we hear your newly launched podcast, and what's the driving force behind it?

I teamed up with iHeartRadio for the “Wholly Human” podcast, and it has been a dream to create so far. I get to chat to some of my closest friends and people who have helped me on my own personal journey to wholeness and share their stories with you.

We have just started to record season two, which will be launching very soon.

What do you hope to do in Maine when you're off-stage, off-duty? at, sleep—ha ha. If there’s time, I always try to go for a drive to see the surrounding areas of wherever I am in any city. I like to take it all in: the people, the terrain, the views—and of course, the food!

E

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44 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

140 Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport, ME

This is a tough one, since you're from Jackson, Mississippi, and Texas. Which is better, lobster or shrimp?

Well, lots of Maine lobster, of course! n

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Araxine Wilkins Sawyer Foundation, 371 Sawyer Rd., Greene. DrumatiX, June 11 (Facebook livestream).

946-5311.

Vivid Motion Dance, St. Lawrence Arts, 76 Congress St. VivMo Shorts: Fairy Tales & Folklore, May 21-23. 558-1979.

MUSIC

Araxine Wilkins Sawyer Foundation, 371 Sawyer Rd., Greene. Route 66, May 21; DrumatiX, June 11; The Sky Blue Boys, June 18; Erica Brown: Josephine County, July 16; The Pond Lilies, July 23; The Downeasters Chorus, July 30 (Facebook livestreams). 946-5311.

Aura, 121 Center St. Classic Stones Live, May 7; Buckcherry, May 22. 772-8274.

EXPERIENCE Jul. 16; Ardella Trio, Jul. 17; Jazz Night, Jul. 18; 48th Annual Acadia National Park Outdoor Concert, Jul. 21 (Blackwoods Campground Amphitheatre); 16th Annual Bob Noonan Memorial Concert, Jul. 23; Festival Gala, Jul. 25. Before Jun. 7: (212)222-1026. After Jun. 7: (207)288-5744.

Bach Virtuosi Festival, P. O. Box 2194, South Portland.

Baroque chamber music concerts at St. Luke’s Cathedral (143 State St.) and Etz Chaim Synagogue (267 Congress St.), Aug. 1-7. info@bachvirtuosifestival.org

Belfast Flying Shoes, 143 Church St., Belfast. BFS Radio Hour on 100.9 FM (every first Fri. at 6 p.m.).

338-0979.

Bar Harbor Music Festival at 1932 Criterion Theatre, 35 Cottage St. Tea Concert, Jun. 27; Andromeda Quintet, Jun. 30; Christopher Johnson, Jul. 2; Alison Kiger and Friends, Jul. 6; 25th Annual New Composers Forum, Jul. 7 (via Zoom); 37th Annual New Composers Concert, Jul. 9; Pops Concert, Jul. 11 (Bluenose Inn, 90 Eden St.); Antonio Galera Lopez, Jul. 13; Young Audience Concert: Peter and the Wolf, Jul. 15; Bar Harbor Festival Opera Theatre: Mozart’s Così fan tutte,

Blue, 650A Congress St. Open Jazz Sessions, every Tue.; Irish Nights (virtual), every Wed.; The Happy Hour Music Series (virtual), every Wed. and Thurs.; Jazz at BLUE, (virtual) every Sat. 774-4111.

Chocolate Church Arts Center, 804 Washington St., Bath. Shipyard Concert Series at Maine Maritime

Museum: Mallett Brothers Band, May 8; Scott Moreau’s “Under The Influence,” May 22; Studio Two (Beatles Tribute), May 29. 442-8455.

Deertrees Theatre: 156 Deertrees Rd., Harrison.

Beatles For Sale, July 8; Sebago-Long Lake Music Festival, July 13; Anni Clark, July 16; Don Campbell, July 17; Sebago-Long Lake Music Festival, July 20; Salt Lick Cafe Series Cabaret, July 22; Susie Pepper/Mixology 007 Tribute, July 23; Robin Spielberg, pianist, July 24; Sebago-Long Lake Music Festival, July 27; Back Pages 60’s Tribute, July 30; Salt Lick Cafe Series Cabaret Milltown Roadshow!, Aug. 5; Piano Men: the Music of Elton and Billy, Aug. 13; Tartan Terrors: A Celtic Invasion, Aug. 20. 583-6747.

Friends of the Kotzschmar Organ, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Heroes & Hero-

ines recital by Katelyn Emerson, on-demand through May 31. 553-4363.

Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln. Don Campbell Band, May 9; An Evening with Steven Kellogg, May 14; Judy Collins, May 16; Suede with Fred Boyle, piano and Rich Hill, bass, May 29-30. 646-4777.

Lark Society for Chamber Music, 202 Woodfords St. Portland String Quartet III (virtual event), May 16.

761-1522.

Local Press, 276 Woodford St. Acoustic Music, every Sat. 773-0039.

Lyric Music Theater, 176 Sawyer St., South Portland.

Lyric in the Living Room (Facebook livestream), every Mon., Wed., and Fri. 799-1421.

Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath.

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Shipyard Concert Series: Mallett Brothers Band, May 8; Scott Moreau’s ‘Under The Influence’, May 22; Studio Two (Tribute to the Beatles), May 29. 443-1316.

Maine State Music Theater, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick.

Christine and Patsy Together Again; Piano Men: The Music of Elton John and Billy Joel. Call 725-8769 for dates TBD. Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor. Portland Symphony Ensemble, May 20; Andrew Sords Dueling Divas, June 10; Seth Warner Band, June 12; Ellis Paul & Special Guests, June 13.

633-5159.

Opera Maine at Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. L’elisir d’amore, Jul. 28 & 30.

879-7678.

Portland Lobster Company, 180 Commercial St. Ryan Halliburton-The Still, May 11; Late Night Selfie,

May 12; Dominic Lavoie & Friends, May 13; CC & Friends, May 14; Susan Gerry & Friends, May 15; Vinyl Tap, May 15; Gina Alibrio & Friends, May 16; Blue Steel Express, May 16; The Boneheads, May 17; Ryan Halliburton-The Still, May 18; Sam Shain & The Scolded Dogs, May 19; Joint Chiefs, May 20; Kris Rogers & The Dirty Gems, May 21; Scotti River Trio, May 22; Band Beyond Description, May 22; Mitch Alden-Now is Now, May 23; CC & Friends, May 23; Delta Knights, May 24; Ryan Halliburton-The Still, May 25; Captain Ray & The Castaways, May 26; Dominic Lavoie & Friends, May 27; Stu Mahan & The Nightshades, May 28; Sam Chase & Friends, May 29; Vinyl Tap, May 29; Gina Alibrio & Friends, May 30; Jason Spooner Band, May 30; OC & The Offbeats, May 31; Connor Garvey Band, May 31; Blue Steel Express,

June 1; LHQ, June 2; Joint Chiefs, June 3; Stu Mahan & The Nightshades, June 4; Scotti River Trio, June 5; Band Beyond Description, June 5; Mitch Alden-Now is Now, June 6; Captain Ray & The Castaways, June 6.

775-2112.

Porthole Restaurant & Pub, 20 Custom House Wharf. Something Stupid on the Deck!, May 21; Vinyl Tap, May 22; Joan Kennedy Band, May 23; Ragged Jack is Rockin’ the Deck!, May 28 Stolen Mojo, May 29; Slygo Road is Back on the Deck!, May 30; American Ride Back on the Wharf!, May 31.

773-4653.

Portland Public Library, 5 Monument Way. Timothy Burris, May 20 (livestream).

871-1700.

Portland Symphony Orchestra, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Nothin’ But the Blues, May 12-Jun. 11; Forte: A Night to Benefit the

Portland Symphony Orchestra, May 13; Mahler’s Fourth, May 26-Jun. 25; Eckart Conducts Beethoven, Jun. 30-Jul. 30 (all on-demand).

773-6128.

State Theatre, 609 Congress St. Dave Mason, May 10. 956-6000.

The Strand Theatre, 345 Main St., Rockland. Castle of Our Skins: String Quartets Play African-American Spirituals, through May 16 (virtual event). 701-5053.

Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. Heather Pierson Acoustic Trio, May 14; Jason Spooner Acoustic Band, May 21. 935-7292.

Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd, Brunswick.

Summer Jam Camp-Out, Jul. 2-5; Maine Folk, A Gathering of Kindred Spirits, Jul. 16-18; Lit Fest, Jul. 24-25; Thomas Point Bluegrass Festival, Sep. 2. 725-6009.

EXPERIENCE Vinegar Hill Music Theater, 53 Old Post Rd, Arundel. The Ghost of Paul Revere, May 29 (drive-up concert). 985-5552.

COMEDY

Fresnel Theater, 17 Free St. Live virtual events via Zoom: Past Your Bedtime, most Fridays; ComedySportz Maine, every Saturday.

619-1418.

ART

Bates College Museum of Art, 75 Russell St., Lewiston.

Senior Thesis Exhibition, through May 29; An Afternoon with Art: Mindfulness with Visual Art, May 23 (via Zoom). 786-6158.

Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 245 Maine St., Brunswick. Samuel Waldo and the American Heroes of Louisbourg: Examining Their Role in Colonization and Enslavement in Early

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EXPERIENCE New England (live virtual event), May 10. 725-3275.

Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter Street, Rockland. [ON]now, through Aug. 2; David Row: The Shape of Things, May 29-Sep. 12; S. B. Walker: Nor’East, May 29-Sep. 12; Joy Feasley + Paul Swenbeck: Will-O’-The-Wisp, May 29-Sep. 12. 701-5005.

Chocolate Church Arts Center, 804 Washington St., Bath. A Congregation of Birds, through May 15.

442-8455.

Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. Live virtual events: Virtual Artful Meditation: Be Kind to Yourself, May 12; Virtual Artful Healing: Be Kind to Yourself, May 17; A Conversation with The Maine Art Museum Trail Directors, May 25. 859-5600.

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland.

Betsy Wyeth: Partner and Muse, May 15-Oct. 24; Betsy’s Gift: The Works of N. C., Andrew, and Jamie Wyeth, May 15-Mar. 27, 2022; Robert Indiana: The Hartley Elegies, May 29-Jan. 2, 2022; George Tice and Andrew Wyeth: Parallel Visions, Jun. 12-Oct. 21. 596-6457

(MECA), 522 Congress St. MFA Thesis Exhibition, May 14-Jun. 11. 699-5025.

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Square. Stories of Maine: An Incomplete History, through May 16; Untitled 2020: Art from Maine in a _____ Time, through May 31.

775-6148.

Rangeley Friends of the Arts, 2493 Main St. Denis Leblanc: Watercolors, May 29-Jun. 28. 864-5000.

Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Maine: The Painted State 2021, through May. 29. 772-2693.

Richard Boyd Art Gallery, 15 Epps St., Peaks Island.

Paintings in Oil, through May 30. 712-1097.

Kittery Art Association, 8 Coleman Ave. Dappled Spotlight Wall: Julia Gittes, through May 16; Kittery Schools K-12 Art, May 2030. 451-9384.

Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta. Talking Art in Maine: Intimate Conversations with Jane Dahmen and guest Jeffery Becton, May 20. 563-3424.

Maine College of Art

River Arts, 241 US-1, Damariscotta. Wild Things, through May 22; Land & Sea, May 26-Jul. 3. 563-1507.

Schoodic Arts for All, Hammond Hall, Winter Harbor.

Proof: Sean Heely, May 2023. 963-2569.

Space Gallery, 538 Congress St. Distant Pleasures:

Christopher W. McDonald, through May 12; Give Black Folx Their Flowers (While We Can Still Smell Them): Candice Gosta, through May 15. 828-5600.

University of Maine Museum of Art, 40 Harlow St., Bangor. A Vision Accomplished: Thomas Cornell, through Aug. 7; Domesticated: Amy Stein, through Aug. 7; Pop Art and Influence, through Aug. 7. 581-3300.

University of New England Museum of Art, 2693, 716 Stevens Ave. Speculative Histories & Material Culture, through Jun. 13.

221-4449.

TASTY EVENTS

Blue, 650A Congress St. Layne’s Wine Gig, May 21.

774-4111.

Byrnes’ Irish Pub, 16 Station Ave., Brunswick. Irish Breakfast, every Sun. 729-9400.

Damariscotta River Cruis-

es, 40 Main St., Damariscotta. Oyster and wine tasting cruises, every Sat., Jun. 12Oct. 16. 315-5544.

Hackmatack Playhouse, 538 School St./Rt. 9, Berwick. Farmers’ market selling their own bison products and other local farm products, every Sat. 698-1807.

Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St. Outdoor tasting flights, from May 30. 761-8GIN. Vinegar Hill Music Theater, 53 Old Post Rd, Arundel. Chill at the Hill and Farmers’ & Makers’ Market, May 30. 985-5552.

Wine Wise Events, Maine State Pier, Portland. Wine Sails: The Loire Valley, Jun. 11; Fresh Maine Oysters, Jun. 13; The Mediterranean, Jun. 13. 619-4630.

FILM

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“Can’t classical events “Can’t miss classical event “Can’t missmiss classical event of the summer.” of of the the summer” summer”

— Boston Globe, Classical Music Critics — — Boston Boston Globe, Globe, Classical Classical Music Music Critics Critics

“Some of the most respected musicians

“A ensemble, magnificently “A rock-solid ensemble, magnificently ofrock-solid our time, including flutist Emi Ferguson polished, sizzling, steeped lushness!” polished, sizzling,Sherezade steeped in in lushness!” and soprano Panthaki.”

— Portland Press — Portland Monthly Magazine — Allan Allan Kozinn, Kozinn, Portland Press Herald Herald

All at PM All concerts concerts begin at 7:30 7:30 PM Concerts performed at St. Luke’sbegin Cathedral and Etz Chaim Synagogue Sunday, Sunday, June June 2 2 –– St. St. Luke’s Luke’s Cathedral Cathedral

Thursday, Etz Thursday, June June 6 6 –– Synagogue Synagogue Etz Chaim Chaim Featuring:

IN THE SYNAGOGUE CELEBRATING BACH: Sunday, August 1 St. Luke’s Cathedral BACH Lewis Kaplan, Renee Jolles,

The The Return Return of of the the World-Renowned World-Renowned Virtuosi Virtuosi

–– Falmouth Congregational Daskalakis Violins Church Saturday, June June 8 8Ariadne Falmouth Congregational Church Tuesday, August 3 St. Luke’s Cathedral Saturday, FREE CONCERT :: Beiliang Zhu Cello Wednesday, August 4 St. Luke’s Cathedral In support of the Falmouth Food Pantry PantryHaas Harpsichord BEFORE BACH AND BEYOND: In support of the Falmouth Food Arthur Thursday, August 5 Etz Chaim SynagogueSunday, June 9– St. Luke’s Cathedral Timeless Inspiration Timeless Inspiration Emi Ferguson Sunday, June 9– St. Luke’s Cathedral Flute Saturday, August 7 St. Luke’s Cathedral MUSIC’S GREATEST YEAR, 1685: Sherezade Panthaki Soprano Tuesday, Tuesday, June June 4 4 –– St. St. Luke’s Luke’s Cathedral Cathedral

Bach, Bach, Handel, Handel, and and Scarlatti Scarlatti Jay

50 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

Carter Countertenor

TICKETS

by by phone, phone, website website or or at at the the box box office office Office Available Box in May Box Office Hours: Hours: Mon-Sat Mon-Sat 12-6 12-6 on the website: 20 Myrtle Street, Portland, ME 04101 20 Myrtle Street, Portland, ME 04101 207.842.0800 207.842.0800

BachVirtuosiFestival.org

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e… c n e l l e c x E f o s r a e y 0 3 r e v …O Opening Friday April 2nd Good Restaurants Come & Go. Great Restaurants Get Better & Better.

Dock Square, Kennebunkport | 207-967-9111 | HurricaneRestaurant.com

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.com, too!

EXPERIENCE dross, 14 Main St., Brunswick. Virtual Cinema: Oscar-Nominated Shorts, through May 14.

725-5222.

NEW SCHOOL THE

Lincoln Theater, 2 Theater St., Damariscotta.

Street Gang: How We Got to Sesame Street, May 14-20; Together Together, May 21-27. 563-3424.

WHERE STUDENTS FIND THEIR VOICE

Vinegar Hill Music Theater, 53 Old Post Rd, Arundel. Wonder Woman (1984), May 28 (driveup). 985-5552.

Stonington Opera House, 1 Opera House Ln. Drive-in movies, every Fri. and Sat. 367-2788.

DON’T MISS

Bull Feeney’s, 375 Fore St. Seanachie Nights, May 17. 773-7210.

Community Little Theater, 30 Academy St., Auburn. LACLT Online Auction, May 16-30. 783-0958.

Portland Symphony Orchestra, Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St. Forte: A Night to Benefit the Portland Symphony Orchestra, May 13 (virtual event). 773-6128.

The Public Theatre, 31 Maple St., Lewiston. Spring Forward Online Auction, opens May 10 782-3200.

To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/

Education that ignites students' passions through experiential and community focused learning.

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DINING GUIDE $3 Deweys Portland’s Original Ale House. In the heart of the Old Port, Deweys is famous for pouring the first pint in a city now famous for its beer scene. Today, Deweys boasts 36 tap lines & a diverse menu of sandwiches, burgers, salads, with plenty of vegan & gluten free options. 241 Commercial St, Portland, ThreeDollarDeweys.com, 772-3310 Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com BlueFin North Atlantic Seafood Chef Gil Plaster creates the quintessential Old Port dining experience: classic, contemporary dishes with fresh, locally caught seafood & seasonal ingredients.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, or your favorite cocktail in comfortable elegance or out on the patio w/fire pit. 468 Fore St. 7759090, bluefinportland.com Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511 DiMillo’s On the Water Now’s the time to enjoy everything DiMillo’s has to offer: fabulous dishes prepared by Head Chef, Melissa Bouchard, voted one of Maine’s Chefs of the Year, plus Certified Angus Beef, Italian and the best lobster around.

Our outside dining is unparalleled.

Open Monday thru Saturday at noon, Commercial St., Old Port 772-2216.

Always FREE PARKING while aboard.

Hurricane Restaurant New England cuisine with an international twist.

Lobster & blueberry pie! Local produce and seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list, in-house dessert chef.

Sunday brunch. Live music Wednesday nights. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available.

Good restaurants come and go. Great restaurants get better and better.

Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport. 967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com.

Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95-$22.95.

54 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

RESTAURANT REVIEW Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com.

Portland Lobster Company “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder. Enjoy live music daily w/ ice-cold local beer or fine wine on our deck overlooking gorgeous Portland Harbor. 180 Commercial St., 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com.

Saltwater Grille Portland’s premier waterfront dining experience. Enjoy sweeping skyline & marina views, fresh oacean air & watch boats enter the harbor while you indulge in fresh lobster, oysters, & other seafood selections. Our menu is carefully crafted by our talented & distinguished chefs, bringing you the highest quality seafood that Portland has to offer. 231 Front St, South Portland, SaltwaterGrille.com, 799-5400

The Swallow Has Landed

Shay’s Pub & Grill Heart of Portland.

Local favorite since 2005. Pub fare specialties: sweet & spicy chicken sandwich, fish & chips, seasonal salads. Famous $5 martini menu & daily specials. Outdoor seating.

M-Tues. 11:30-9, W-Sat. 11:30-10, Sun. closed. Schedule your private event with us! 18 Monument Sq. 772-2626, shaysgrillpub.com.

0

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MEAGHAN BAILEY; MAX BROWNSBERGER (2); DIANE HUDSON

Est.

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timeless style for coastal living

The Far East comes to the East End.

W

B Y DIAN E HUDSON

e’ve changed, so why shouldn’t this legendary spot at 90 Congress Street? Curiosity meets hunger as we enter Jing Yan. The inspiration for their take on Asian fusion lies “where our heart is, which is homestyle comfort food” exquisitely prepared by chef Chris Petrillo and his team.

We begin with Korean Fried Chicken Wings ($11) and learn that “Koreans enjoy fried chicken with beer known as chimaek: chi means chicken, and maek is from maekju, which means beer.” Bold, sweet, and spicy, the wings are seasoned with gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste; honey; and garlic. This dish makes us thirsty: Nonesuch 2.0, a bright, citrusy IPA, is most refreshing and a perfect complement to the wings as well as the remainder of our feast.

To cleanse our palates, we gobble up a robust and engaging seaweed salad ($9), its flavor deepened with Shitake and white wood ear mushrooms, the whole seasoned

with tamari and sesame.

On a ’shroom roll now, we dive into the Mushroom Bun ($10): a soft, pillowy bun wrapped around grilled king oyster mushrooms and boasting a tantalizing dressing made with Black Magic mayo, pepper relish, and truffle.

Next is Tom Kha V ($14), a hearty vegetarian dish featuring an abundance of terrifically textured tofu, noodles, bok choy, daikon, cilantro, thai v basil, and chili oil.

The delicious creamy broth with a hint of coconut is served separately to pour over the ingredients.

The chef suggests we try the Sweet and Sour Shrimp and Chicken ($15) with rice.

We savor the lightly steamed, chewy broccoli; big, beautiful shrimp; and lightly battered, delicately seasoned chicken pieces fried to greaseless perfection.

The name Jing Yan derives from an enchanted swallow revered in China. It is said that if this bird builds a nest nearby, you are blessed, as they build their homes only in peaceful environments. We are pleased, Jing Yan, that you have decided to nest here at the top of Munjoy Hill. Tonight we’ve experienced your cuisine via takeout, but it’s clear you’re here to stay. n M AY 2 0 2 1 5 5

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Caratunk – Upper Heald Pond. Calling all that seek a unique Sporting Camps compound! 4 remote, rustic, off-grid cabins on Upper Heald Pond. 100ft of frontage. Fly-Fishing only, but other ponds nearby with any lure. Hiking on Moxie Mountain. Hunting and snowmobiling! Built in the 1920s, Moxie Mountain Camps were run as a Sporting Camp in 1936. MLS 1473314. $194,900

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TALKING WALLS

The Mystery of Moxie Mountain CAMP PHOTOS BY MONICA NIX, CSM REALTY; MOOSE BY HARRY WALKER

Four wilderness cabins set you on the trail to the real Maine.

Y

ou are entering a Nancy Drew story. On a remote but chaste hiking trip with Bess, George, and Ned, you stumble upon four rustic cabins overlooking Upper Heald Pond in the shadow of Moxie Mountain in Caratunk. Who put them here? Bess has blisters, but Nancy won’t rest till she finds out.

THE FIRST CLUE “I’d always heard about these cabins,” says listing agent Monica Nix. “You have to hike in to see them, so when I first went to the property, it was a mystery to me. When you go in there, the forest opens up. Together,

FROM STAF F & WIRE REPORTS

they look like a little community. My uncle, Wright Pinkham, and his friend who co-owns them are putting them up for sale: $194,900 for all four.”

Who would create a necklace of cabins on such a perfect lake north of nowhere?

Who could guess so deftly what so many of us are dreaming of during the summer of 2021?

CLUE NO. 2 A 1958 letter from past owner Wallace Barron to a subsequent purchaser reveals that “The Moxie Mt. Camps that you own were built for a wealthy blanket manufacturer

from Rhode Island during the late 1920s.”

At the time, the Esmond Mills were flying high, turning out luxuriant wool products from 1906 to 1948 in Esmond, Rhode Island, where the brick mill still stands.

An Esmond Blanket advertising brochure in the Ephemera collection of Historic New England compares the air spaces in a cross-section of their double-weave blankets to the insulation in a double-walled house; no doubt these cabins were built to be as snug as the company’s innovative Esmond Jacquard blankets.

According to valleybreeze.com, “Esmond Mill was also known for its Nava-

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TALKING WALLS jo blanket, renamed the Indian blanket after objections from the Navajo tribe…One vintage Indian blanket on eBay will sell for more than $700.”

While young mothers coveted soft pink and blue Bunny Esmond baby blankets, not everything was sweetness and light at the mill. In “Forgotten Tales of the Esmond Mill” on the Historical Society of Smithfield’s website, Jim Ignasher reports that the weaving machines kept humming despite a New Year’s Eve armed robbery, a strike-related suicide, unchecked sexual harassment that culminated in a throat slashing, and the immolation of an employee cleaning the lint pit under the napping room when the lint dust spontaneously combusted.

(Something to consider before neglecting to clean out your dryer’s lint filter.) No wonder the owners needed to unwind in Maine!

“No one even thinks there are camps on this pond. They’re brown with brown roofs—highly invisible.”

Wallace Barron bought the cabins in 1936. In his 1958 letter, he says, “My wife and I operated the place as a sporting camp until World War II and gas rationing put a damper on travel” and notes that “All the material [to make the original cabins] went in by buckboard from Chamberlain Hill and by Chase Pond.”

MEET ONE OF THE PRESENT-DAY SELLERS “The first time I set eyes on the camps was in 1985,” says Wright Pinkham, 80.

“I was snowmobiling with my friend Jim Bean about forty or fifty miles from where we lived—way out there. At the time we were both working for the Department of Transportation. He said, ‘I know where some run-down camps are,’ so we headed that way. Somebody was obviously not taking good care of them. Turned out the two owners had had a falling out. My friend bought one guy’s share, and I bought the The asking price for the camps a few weeks ago was $25,900 less than the current price in the MLS. Why? “Because the owners were leasing the land from a paper company, but now the buyer will own the land with the cabins,” Nix says.

The amount of land is yet to be finalized.

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other’s! They’re on leased land, of course.”

A MAJESTIC APPARITION or years, “our two families came up here for vacations, mostly doing things like restoring the structures, jacking them up, putting new roofs on. My wife, Connie, loved this place. She died three years ago tomorrow,” after fifty-five years of marriage. “But the things we saw together: humongous moose! The largest we ever saw was drinking from the pond.” The couple must have been enjoying their first sip of morning coffee together on the front porch. The bull moose’s antlers were so large, they dipped underwater as he sipped. “Then he looked up, directly at us. Water spilled off his giant antlers like waterfalls.”

F

THE CLUE IN THE DIARY “Once we found a lost person in the woods.”

Or maybe he was a runaway. In any case, he had lost his bearings. “We called the authorities. They wanted to know: Do you think he broke into your cabins?

“We said no! Then his diary turned up.

He had been inside! I didn’t realize it! He ate things like peanut butter and crackers.”

If only Nancy Drew had been there to follow the trail of saltine crumbs!

MONICA NIX

VISITORS WILD AND TAME “Upper Heald Pond is for fly fishing only— brook trout. Every year a group of friends stayed with us to go hunting. Usually somebody in the group got a deer. Our snowmobile club came up a lot too. We’ve had bears in the snow clawing at the doors.”

VANISHING MAINE The camps are “three-quarters of a mile from where we land our boats. No one even thinks there are camps on this pond.

They’re brown with brown roofs—highly invisible.” The magic circle unbroken. The biggest mystery? “We just got older, and our families grew up.”

Solve that one, Nancy Drew. n Taxes TBD. M AY 2 0 2 1 5 9

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64 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

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Estate!

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swan lake

swan lake

STOCKTON SPRINGS: 179 nortHPort aVe, Belfast swanville Notably one of THEw/ most reswanville Lovely Ranch home on 2.5 400′ waterfront Commercial Pier and a 40′ x 60′ The Nesmith-Read House • $350,000 markable properties on this desirable lake!

Acres w/ 515’ shorefront featuring many building, Located close to Belfast’s downtown and waterfront, this historical Circa ideal as a yacht club. Previously operated as Custom built w/3314 sq.ft., Cathedral ceilupdates including new kitchen, waterthe Stockton Harbor Yacht Club. Building features open 1783 Cape is within walking distance to hospital, oceanfront parks and ing in Great Room will awe you. Access to front deck, flooring, interior painting, loungea overlooking the water with gas fireplace: 10′ x 160′ waterfront. Front parlor and living room are adorned with fireplaces, Waterfront deck from both levels & garage. paved drive, and more. 1500 sq. ft on long pile supported pier, including a 50′ x 4′ wide alumiformal dining room off custom designed kitchen featuring granite, built ins, 1.5 Acres w/ 285’ frontage and dock for the one floor. Expansion possible to full 2nd & woodstove; an office/family room with entranceboats! to studio, currently used1 - 12′ x 20′ float; 8 - 10′ x 25′ floats; 2 - 3-pile num Possible. ramp; Expansion floor; double lot! sWan laKe sWanVille Belfast as a custom, interiorWinterPort design studio. dolphins and 6 - single float piles. $1,200,000.

Mls: 1304620 | $529,900 Mls: 1287308 | $299,900 With 9 rooms, 3 baths, building flexiblethe floor plan, and zoning allows Lake House was built in 1999. Interior adorned Year-Round Contemporary home featuring 3 bedrooms and 2 baths Nestled at the end of Pleasant St,offers overlooking Penobscot administrative center,this professional, clinical officefeatures space, uses are endless. with wide spruce & yellow pine. Living room & kitchen with modern decor throughout. Well-appointed kitchen w/ with 200’ waterfront, 4 bdrm, 2.5 bath home Renovated 2009 with attention to maintaindeck the original this historic house, theopen charm adorn every open flofoor plan; French Doors to and a 1stwarmth floor bedroom or breakfast bar; open to dining which in turn opens to the rear, lovely openinfloor plan with accessgiven to wrap-around from details room. room Commercial, ADA accessible Utilities, Central Mls# 1446059 ce; master suite on upper level. Beautiful views. Walkout private deck. Master En-Suite w/private bath. Attached 2-car living and sunroom.

Vistas willw/City awe you.

Detached 4 AC.offi Be agarage part ofw/loft. its history, one of Belfast’spaved oldest, existing houses, The Nesmith-Read House. $350,000 basement.

110’ waterfront, beach & dock. Rec room over garage. Downstairs media room. Mls:1410884 $275,000 bay Property is fenced, drive, sea wall; garage. Mls:1359899 $499,900 impeccable inside and out. Mls:1412774 $399,900

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Remarkable property with 34′ oceanfront, amazing Cozy camp on Swan Lake! 110′ shorefront with 24′ Move in ready, 3 bdrm Ranch home only minutes Beautifully Restored New England Cape on Pitcher Rd in Serenity, Peace, and Tranquility on aCross inwith Morrill…

Belfast Sea Captain’s that has beenHome impeccably Built in 2003, nothing spared here Bay. folks!Walk the Custom built 3/2 home features intricate Belfast Commanding views across Only 2Home miles to downtown, thishas lovely panoramic views of Penobscot beach, dock system.

Camp features fullPond bath shower. to downtown Belfast Waterfront. been Belfast. Sunny & open 1stevery floor laKe w/spacious kitchendetails featuring describes thiswood amazing property.

Nestled the middle of a this Contemporary, and home updated.

Walking distance to downtown Belfast sWan Captivating views from room, wrapthroughout. floors, Penobscot Bay from has an updated kitchen, fi replace Belfast enjoy all the amenities of Oceanfront property. This TheLovely kitchen comes equipped withinrefrigerator, stove, maintained conscientiously maintained, offers new metal granite counter tops, stainless appliances & top of the line water spacious 5+ easy Acres,access this home is likeonly none5you willto find.

Chef’s Belfast Belfast and alsointoliving, the Belfast Harbor and Rail Trail. around deck, lower level Great Room seasonal views and onchairs. miles wateropen porch.Walk Most recently operlittle cottage is move inpatio, ready! in this while you Beautiful microwave, table and Slider leads todowntown a to fanroofing, septic system, breezeway.

Freshly painted, Attention Equestrians!

Near downtown, home features 8 Spacious 4 bedroom 3 bath home onLive Beautiful Swan Lake 3 bedroom 2 bathroom condo only 2 miles cabinetry.

Slider leadsEn-Suite to new deck that wraps around the Trail which kitchen, Living rm & dining featuresfront. gas fireplace; den w/ this 1624Great with entrances ideal as home w/fi replace, Master w/fi replace &your thetoRail to8′the Belfast 2005, sq. ft Room/studio home ated asfinished aseparate business, locatedroom on U.S. Rt. 1 2+ rooms, spacious kitchen w/island, family overlookw/over 700’ shared water frontwith to access boating, build your home.

7 Acres longfor road frontage tasticleads 20′ xwaterfront! deck across entire front, overlookmodern flooring, basement, patio, heated downtown Locatedthe within a Built 46 unitincomplex rear overlooking the lovely apple trees & gardens.

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Water facing screened porch features access to oceanfront from every 14.46 makes ideal for home office, accounting, ing acres,this pastures horses.

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Master alongtub, Route makes an ideal 3home/business use. ing theover water withwith fantastic views. up spacious the boat carprivate garage/workshop.

Equitably priced at $249,900! spread 44 acres walking paths.Slip Lovely, ing, den &1st bdrm, laundry & full bath all onand 1st floor.

3 deck. rooms, spaciouslegal kitchen with tin ceilings, private bath.SEE! Central Air, full house generator, outdoor shower, walkout to thefloor shore! spacious Must room! City utilities, private development. or medical facility. This is the dream electric & water opens to paddock area. Mls:1401830 on 1st flyour oor. Lovely views.

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Mls:1405561 Endless uses! $545,000 $394,900 downtown Belfast $165,000 $139,900 Mls: 1283853 | $549,900 business. 3 miles to downtown waterfront. $429,900 FULLY FURNISHED HOME. 284’ WATERFRONT $495,000

66 P O R T L A N D MAGAZINE

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Kelly Wentworth-Lowe “Quality Real Sales Manager (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com

Gilbert D. (Specs) Eaton III Estate Practice Becomes Great Community Service.”

(207) 491-5150 specseaton@gmail.com

MLS#1406473 (Land) MLS#1406283 (Land & House)

MLS#1312731

36 Rosewood Lane (Lot 36), Cobb Bridge Commons, New Gloucester, ME Cobbs Bridge Commons is an upscale community close to Brunswick, L/A and Portland. The subdivision offers privacy, walking trail to the Royal River and is close to Fox Ridge Golf course. The land is listed for $59,900 or with a new home for $379,900

33 Bluff Head Rd, Chebeague Island, ME Beaches, Mooring, and Views! Cottage sited atop Bluff Head Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Rock outcropping. Motivated seller, recent favorable interest Sales Manager rates, and charming location make this sweet spot worth strong Freeport, Maine consideration. $449,500 (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com

©2018 BHH Affi Affiliates, liates, LLC. LLC. An An Independently Independently owned owned and and operated operated franchisee franchisee of of BHH BHH Affi Affiliates, liates, LLC. LLC. Berkshire Berkshire Hathaway Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices and and the the Berkshire Berkshire Hathaway Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices symbol symbol ©2018 2018 BHH ® are Equal Housing Housing Opportunity.

Opportunity. are registered registered service service marks marks of of HomeServices HomeServices of of America, America, Inc. Inc.® Equal

TURN-KEY MEDICAL MARIJUANA FARM Located in Scarborough, Maine, retired couple offers business & chalet home on 4+ acres, zone farm rural with 500 feet on the Nonesuch River.

Farm is licensed under the Maine Medical Marijuana Caregiver Program. The property is fenced in with 6 and 8 Foot chain link and barbed wire fence. It also has an automated, entrance gate system. It has state-of-the-art camera & alarm system for the entire property.

The property consists of four structures. The home is a 3-story chalet. The garage/processing building is 24 X 60 ft. The curing and drying warehouse, with pallet shelving and drying beds is 30 X 64 ft. The indoor grow building, 400 amp electricity, T-5 lights, water, sewage and heated, is 30 X 60 ft. Two outdoor fenced pens and 25 gallon in-ground pots with automated food and water.

Reduced Price $1,000,000.00

More information and pictures at www.nonesuchriverfarm.com Call us at 207-420-4783 for appointment.

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Homes & Living

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• FULL LINE YAMAHA OUTBOARD DEALER AND SERVICE CENTER

• BOAT RENTALS AVAILABLE TO EXPLORE THE BEAUTIFUL MAINE COAST

• HEATED AND UNHEATED INSIDE STORAGE AND OUTSIDE STORAGE

LA ST WORDS

Spirit Sail B Y AN N E B . ZILL

“E

DEADRISE MARINE

ase it out a bit,” Henry Bird says.

Like a proper crewmate, I let the sheet out ever so slowly until the wind fills the sail and our Lightning speeds up like it’s found its heart. The water ripples, and we heel over close to the wind—starboard

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LA ST WORDS up, port down. We slice gently, elegantly through the sea, caressing the water as if kissing life itself.

As we tack out of Harraseeket Harbor, Henry mans the tiller and the main while I tend the jib. Henry isn’t just my sailing instructor. He’s a Harvard divinity student, and divine is the word: he’s tall, reserved, a Gregory Peck type in one of his intellectual roles—that questioning, head-cocked grin.

Real sailors go barefoot a lot, so my feet sometimes touch his, but I think nothing of it. There’s the age difference, though I’m beginning to know my way around this harbor. After all, this is my fourth year of sailing class. At twelve, I know at least some of the ropes and love to be out here with all the other Lightnings. Collectively, there’s a sense of “we” out here. On this boat, it’s you and me.

“Ready about,” Henry says. “Hard a-lee.” e swing the boat sharply around in a swirl of flapping sails and banging lines as we turn in a new direction, on a different, faster beat. Trim! Trim the sails! Again and

W

then again.

“Do you ever talk about concepts of God?” Henry asks.

“Not much.” I’m twelve. You are twentysomething. Furthermore I do not talk about this subject at all except when I report to my mother that the nuns in my weekly catechism class are railing against “godless, corrupt Communism” again. I wonder, for the first time, if nuns are smart sailors. “When I was five, I used to crouch under my grandfather’s stove, imagining myself seeing the clouds above me, rising up to them, and flying out over the horizon into them.” I study the clouds. Though the sun is obscured, there’s a depth to the sky. “It still helps me go to sleep. But it’s not like I was imagining God sitting on a cloud waiting for me or anything. Just trying to find peace in the beyond.”

“We are studying the Trinity,” Henry says.

“I don’t get the Holy Ghost.”

“It’s like our soul, sometimes shown as a flame—tongues of flames. Supposed to be our better natures, so to speak. What keeps

us on the straight and narrow.”

I am liking this talk as the wind wraps around us, embracing us someplace between the sea and the clouds. I begin to think about trinities—threes. Mother, father, baby. Birth, life, death. Past, present, future. Beginning, middle, end. My mind is roiling with the joy of playing with these concepts. My brain won’t stop. “Life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.” “I came, I saw, I conquered.” “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.” “Tell the truth, the whole truth, nothing but the truth.” uddenly the sun appears. We jibe and head back toward the South Freeport harbor, running before the wind with the water rippling rhythmically beneath us, the main sail full out to pull us mightily forward while the jib luffs to one side and then the other in communion with our back and forth. The harbor looms into close-up: the castle that defines the coastline, moored boats to dodge and other boats underway, coming and going. Summer dazzles us into the unknown. n

S

Front

Back

Natural Maine Sea Glass

Our dedication to handmade jewelry sets us apart . . . Stop in!

Lightning Sailboat, 14k

67 Pine Street · Ellsworth, Maine 04605 · (207) 667-5855 · strikinggoldjewelers.com Stop in or follow us on Facebook to see new pieces being made daily!

Celebrating 49 years at the jeweler’s bench and 17 years serving you in Ellsworth!

Mediterranean Chicken Wrap SERVES 4 Ingredients: 1 (12 oz.) Cedar’s® Cucumber Garlic Tzatziki 2 cups

Hannaford Rotisserie Chicken Breast, chopped

1/2

A medium cucumber, unpeeled and chopped (about 1 cup)

8

Cherry tomatoes, halved

1/3 cup

Red Onion, chopped

1/2 cup

Nature’s Promise® Organic Pitted Kalamata Olives

1 tsp.

Fresh lemon juice

20

Leaves Fresh Express® Flat Spinach (5 leaves per wrap)

1 (10 oz.) Package Cedar’s® Whole Wheat Wraps Directions: 1. In a large bowl, combine tzatziki, chicken, cucumber, tomatoes, onion, olives and lemon juice.

2. Place spinach leaves in a row down the center of each wrap. Divide chicken mix evenly amongst four wraps.

Roll tightly and enjoy.

Get the nutritional benefits of the Mediterranean Diet with this quick and easy wrap, loaded with lean chicken breast, heart-healthy olives and hydrating veggies.

Dietitian’s Tip: Have leftover ingredients?

Top a bed of spinach with remaining chicken, cucumber, tomato, onion and olives.

Drizzle Nature’s Promise® Organic Tuscan Italian Dressing over salad and enjoy.

simply healthy from your Hannaford Dietitians Have questions about your health? Our team of registered dietitians offer free nutritional services online and in-store.

Visit hannaford.com/dietitians to learn more.

Nutritional Information: Amount per serving: Calories 510; Total Fat 19 g; Saturated Fat 7 g; Cholesterol 80 mg; Sodium 1220 mg; Carbohydrate 52 g; Fiber 5 g; Protein 30 g; Total Sugar 10 g; Added Sugars 2 g

AN HOUR AWAY. WORLDS APART. Every once in a while we need to escape the real world and remember what life is all about. Only an hour’s drive from Portland, our resort features 88 luxuriously-appointed rooms and suites complete with plenty of activities and pampering amenities to make your stay truly unforgettable. Play golf on our championship course.

Visit our new fitness pavilion, pool, and tennis courts. Explore the coastline on our private yachts or kayaks. Or just kick back, relax and enjoy majestic sunsets from our heated deck.

Reservations: 800-762-8433 BoothbayHarborOceansideResort.com

2021 STAY & PLAY SPECIALS 1 NIGHT + 2 ROUNDS | $399* | MAY/OCT 1 NIGHT + 2 ROUNDS | $499* | JUNE/SEPT 1 NIGHT + 2 ROUNDS | $599* | JULY/AUG *AVAILABLE SUN-WED