Portland Monthly Magazine November 2017

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F ly i n g s o lo | B i s t r o B l i s s

our 18-Hour City

EvangElinE rEmix

10 Most IntrIguIng

Mainers november 2017 vol. 32 no. 8 $5.95

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C i t y

M a g a z i n e

TM

noveMber

M a i n e ’ s

from left: meaghan maurice; stock; courtesy the swan agency; Cover: molly magnuson for lifespan: new Brand mission

69 111 Personalities

33 Ten Most Intriguing

We bring you up close to ten Mainers causing a stir worldwide: Hawa Ibrahim and Khadija Hussein, Mother and Daughter on the Move; Senator Angus King, Arctic Visionary; Yamilah Saravong, Emerging Actor; Amanda Charlton Herbert, Intrepid Horsewoman; Travis Mills, Courageous Dreamer; John Hodgman, Master of the Absurd; Jessica Hewitt, Resurfacing Surviror; Wayne Davis, King of the Tracks; and Patrick Corrigan, Creative Chameleon.

Interviews by Sarah Moore, Olivia Kostishevskaya Gunn, Diane Hudson, Jeanee Dudley, and Julia Tolstrup

Food&drink 57 Hungry Eye

You say three Maine cookery books; I say culinary witchcraft. By Claire Z. Cramer

61 Everyday Sommelier

“4 Fine Wines” The perfect Thanksgiving wine. There, that’s one less thing for the family to fight about! By Ralph Hersom

66 Dining Guide 69 Restaurant Review

The Francis Hotel’s new restaurant shows us what it’s made of. By Claire Z. Cramer

101 Maine liFe

17 Maine Classics 19 Concierge 20 Experience 26 Chowder 29 Portland After Dark

“Party of One” A solo journey through the city’s bars proves that one isn’t the loneliest number after all. By Olivia Kostishevskaya Gunn

shelter&design

53 The Ultimate Smackdown

La Rochelle is Bar Harbor’s nod to the founder of Bowdoin College. By Colin W. Sargent

70 Holiday Gift List

101 House of the Month

106 New England Home & Living

Portland hits 18-hour city status. By Colin W. Sargent

art&style 111 Fiction

“The Humiliation of the Wood” By Garrett Soucy

PersPeCtives 12 From the Editor 14 Letters

65 L’Esprit de l’Escalier

“Evangeline, The Original Beat Icon” Making a case for Longfellow’s Evangeline of Acadie: Was she on the road before Jack Kerouac? By Rhea Côté Robbins

112 Flash

Time to find out who’s naughty and nice.

69

cover: rising star yamilah saravong, 11. photo by molly magnuson. see “most intriguing mainers,” page 33. novemBer 2017 11


Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

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ikes. I’m probably going to get a lot of hate mail for this. But, hey. I’m a Deering High grad. I’ve lived my whole life either attending, or at least checking on the results of, the ‘November classic’–the Deering-Portland Thanksgiving Day Football Game. It’s a blast every year–an awesome outing for the students and alumni for both schools. The 106th Turkey Day game is scheduled for November 23 at Fitzpatrick Stadium in Portland. The contest is thuddingly real, with chance streakers, icy fingers, the roar of the crowd, the crack of helmets. Deering won the 1972 Turkey Day Game, 12-0. We made it to the state championship that year. But considering the stealthily growing and lingering legacy of CTE (Chronic Traumatic Encephalopathy), the degenerative brain disease created by brain trauma, we all lost. I’m loyal to the Purple (Go Rams!). I’m a Patriots fan. But I’m no longer a big fan of football. When I read about the Boston University study where “CTE was found in 110 of 111 brains of dead NFL players studied, according to the Journal of the American Medical Association,” that was it for me. That means 99 percent of those players suffered from a disease featuring symptoms including “memory loss, confusion, impaired judgment, aggression, depression, anxiety, impulse control issues, and sometimes suicidal behavior.” Could some of the tweet-touted “ratings decline” of the NFL be due to the fact that some of the fan base is losing its taste for the violence that creates human time bombs? Because this hits close to home, I call Dr. Peter Morrison, the Scarborough pediatric neurologist who’s affiliated with Maine Medical Center, to get his perspective. Would you let your child play contact football? “Short answer, no. I think we’re learning there’s a growing body of evidence, including the B.U. study, that football can really lead to brain injury.” I ask Dr. Morrison, “Another issue is the use of prior football as a defense for later criminal acts. Is it all over when we realize that any criminal can disavow responsibility for murder because he or she played football once?” “There was an op-ed in The New York Times about that last week.” [“Is C.T.E. a Defense for Murder?” NYtimes.com] This is no Twinkie Defense, because this isn’t a temporary insanity call due to a sugar high. CTE is a disease without a cure and, at this time, without a treatment. On the liability sideline, the lawyer for Avielle Janelle Hernandez, daughter of New England Patriots tight end Aaron Hernandez (who killed himself in prison in April while serving a life sentence for murder) has filed a wrongful-death lawsuit against the NFL. Hernandez, only 27, had Stage III CTE. Maybe it’s time for football to no longer be sponsored by schools. Either schools are in the business of encouraging brain development…or they’re not. But what about The Turkey Day Game? Aren’t crosstown rivalries still a cool way to blow off steam? Here’s an idea. Attend school plays instead, with Oscars presented for interscholastic competition. (I’ll never forget the 1972 team of Bernstein and Sulka in the Deering High production of West Side Story.) Or maybe we could fill Fitzpatrick Stadium with crowds watching state academic decathlons or an interscholastic version of So You Think You Know Maine. There are better, less deadly, ways to compete. In the art film Footloose, the illustrious Kevin Bacon showed us the way. Maybe what Portland really needs big-time–Rams vs. Bulldogs–is a rockin’ dance-off!


Maine’s City Magazine 165 State Street, Portland, maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 www.portlandmagazine.com Colin W. Sargent Founding editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & ProductioN Nancy Sargent Art director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice design director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com AdvertiSiNg Nicole Barna Advertising director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Per Lofving Advertising executive per@portlandmonthly.com Eric Andreasen Advertising executive ericandreasen@portlandmonthly.com

Total Family Wealth Management Asset Management • Estate Planning • Retirement Planning Financial Planning • Education Planning Insurance/Long Term Care • Business Retirement Plans

editoriAl Sarah Moore Assistant editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Olivia Gunn Kotsishevskaya communications director olivia@portlandmonthly.com Diane Hudson Flash Jason Hjort Webmaster Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ AccouNtiNg Eric S. Taylor controller eric@portlandmonthly.com iNterNS Madison Andrews SubScriPtioNS to subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland magazine,165 State Street

Portland, me 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, me 04101. Advertising office: 165 State Street, Portland, me 04101. (207) 775-4339. repeat internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call eric taylor. Newsstand cover date: November 2017, published in october 2017, vol. 32, No. 8, copyright 2017. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, me 04101 (iSSN: 1073-1857). opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, inc., 165 State Street, Portland, maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/march, April, may, Summerguide, July/August, September, october, November, and december. We are proudly printed in the uSA by cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 65 American graphic design Awards presented by graphic design uSA for excellence in publication design.

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Two Portland Square, 7th Floor // Portland, ME 04101 Phone: 207.771.1800 // Toll-Free: 866.680.1196 // Fax: 207.253.5480 www.PortlandHarborGroup.com

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Isn’t that… Come to Bretagne and see…Portland Head Light! We spotted Portland Head Light on the cover of Bretagne Histoire & Culture in a tabac in Dinan, France, in September. Initially, the proprietor of the shop couldn’t believe that a publisher (a Spanish firm) would make such a mistake, until we showed her a picture from back home of Portland Head Light on Faith’s phone, saying “This where we live.” She then said, “Well, you know, none of the structures in Brittany have red roofs–they’re all black or gray.” There was no attribution inside the guide concerning the cover. But of course, to us at least, Portland Head Light is pretty distinctive and recognizable. We had a good laugh about it, as did the proprietor. No, we didn’t pick up a copy. The picture was enough! Michael and Faith Garnett, Portland It’s tuesday; we must be In latvIa I loved your editorial in the October edition of Portland Monthly. I did notice, however, you referred to Riga as being in Estonia, when it is in fact in Latvia [See “From Russia with Love,” October 2017]. Tallinn is the capital city of Estonia, and Riga of Latvia. Although there are similarities between these Baltic countries, each is its own unique entity. I returned from Estonia a


Wher e Recyclin g has Always bee n in Style month ago and was in Riga last April. The Russian story was fascinating, and your magazine is wonderful. Anna Karolczak, Scarborough Finding Patience [Regarding Patience Boston, Fiction, September 2017.] Laurel Ulrich, now in Harvard University’s history department, discovered Patience Boston’s Confession to Joseph Moody and his father, Rev. Samuel Moody and alerted the Old Gaol Museum staff (now part of the Museums of Old York). I was project director for the National Endowment for Humanities Youth Projects Grant 1981-1982 while the Young Historians of York High School spent a year researching Patience’s case in 1730s documents and writing their own community play, which was later filmed. After she was executed, the Moody ministers published Patience’s confession that included her childhood on Cape Code as an Indian princess and her bout with alcoholism and early marriage to an AfricanAmerican whaler. The document is available on line, which is likely where Michael Kimball discovered it. His script is quite different from ours. Juliet H. Mofford, York

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the artist aPProves [See “Novel Graphics, October 2017] The feature looks terrific! Linden [Frederick] says they are the best reproductions of his work he’s ever seen in a magazine. Heather Frederick, Belfast dan Fogelberg, unForgettable [See ‘Wild Child,” April 2010] I just saw the musical, “Part of the Plan,” with a friend in Nashville, Tennessee. All the music was by Dan Fogelberg. It was wonderful and inspirational to watch. He had such a sweet poet’s heart. I’ve been a fan of his for a long time. I didn’t know he was originally from Peoria, Illinois, until I read this. Thanks for answering all the questions. I feel I know him a little better now. Carole, Nashville, TN Watery graves Wow, the story and layout are great! Thanks so much for letting me be a part of the October issue. [See “End Games,” October 2017] Michael L. Grace, Los Angeles November 2017 15


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Victory on t he high Se aS Maine recently sailed past the finish line to collect the Jaeger Women’s Trophy at the J/24 World Championship in Mississauga, Canada. The eleven-women team, sponsored by Sea Bags, taped a Wonder Woman figurine to the ship’s transom for luck–and it seemed to do the trick. “Our goal was to be the top,” says Skipper Erica Beck Spencer. “To reach that goal felt surreal.”

W h at G o e s a r o u n d,

From Top: courTesy sea bags sailiNg Team; courTesy phoTos; meaghaN maurice

Comes Around

By popular demand, Portland’s new professional hockey team will be called the Maine Mariners, the same moniker used by the city’s AHL team from 1977 to 1992. Portland Hockey LLC held the naming contest, in which over 18,000 cast their vote. Other entries: the Watchmen, the Wild Blueberries, the Lumberjacks, and the Puffins. Paul Holmgren, president of the new team, announced the winner before the Boys & Girls Club of Portland. “We think it’s a cool and iconic name,” Holmgren told the crowd. The Mariners will begin their season in October 2018.

Schoolyard Crush

Fresh Powder

The Maine Ski Museum in Kingfield has spruced up its gallery space for a grand reopening November 24. learn how skis in the 1930s were made in maine, or examine memorabilia from the Tenth mountain Division of the second World War. The maine ski hall of Fame 2017 inductees will include steve Deangelis, bruce miles, chip cochrane, Karen hunter Korn, ed rock, ralph ostlund, David chamberlain, and Dick Taylor.

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November 2017 17


Magic Christmas OF

Join conductor Robert Moody as he strikes up the biggest band in town for the Portland Symphony Orchestra’s 38th Annual Magic of Christmas with special guest vocalists Suzanne Nance, Susie Pepper, and the Magic of Christmas Chorus. Friday, Dec. 8 at 2:00 & 7:30 PM Saturday, Dec. 9 at 2:00 & 7:30 PM Sunday, Dec. 10 at 1:00 & 5:00 PM Friday, Dec. 15 at 2:00 & 7:30 PM Saturday, Dec. 16 at 2:00 & 7:30 PM Sunday, Dec. 17 at 1:00 & 5:00 PM

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Concierge

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Up In Lights

Angel Chorus

don’t miss the complex musical talent of Angel Olsen as she takes on the state theatre in portland on december 2. early fans may recognize her folk-forward, alt-country sound, but her latest record, Phases, packs a punch with its pop and rock influences, displaying an impressive plurality of style. “i like to see it as different versions of myself, of my songwriting, of my career,” she says. “everything has evolved so much now.” and while olsen tends to play with both the upbeat and the heavy in her music, she hopes her work accomplishes more than entertainment. “i want to be a part of people getting together and breeding positivity, because that’s all that we can do. especially having a voice that people listen to–why not do that?” tickets are $25-$30.

The holiday season officially commences November 17 in Boothbay with the spectacular Boothbay Festival of Lights. Through December 31, the festival will hold special events including a silent auction, raffle, gingerbread house display, North Pole Express train ride, fireworks, and themed Christmas shops. The most eye-catching event, however, will be the incredible lights display, which conquers the entire town and may even rival Clark Griswold’s.

It’s All Downhill

ski-enthusiasts can kick off the season with warren miller’s film Line of Descent at the state theatre in portland on November 18. the film explores the community of ski culture with extraordinary shots of snowy, mountainous landscapes. and for those who prefer the lodge to the lift? this film is the ideal way to experience one of maine’s most popular outdoor adventures from the comfort of a cozy theatre seat. tickets are $20.

Dancing Dream

Join standout talents from the casts of Dancing with the Stars and American Idol in Portland Symphony Orchestra’s Ballroom with a Twist at merrill auditorium, a lively celebration of song and dance on November 11-12. guests will surely struggle to stay still in their seats. tickets are $32-83.

Oyster Season Wine Wise delivers a walking tour of portland followed by a tasting of maine oysters paired with wine. led by erica archer, a true oenophile, this event is equal parts educational and appetizing. November 26. tickets are $60.

November 2017 19


ExpEriEncE

Global rhythms: Greek-born singer leads Banda Magda, a five-piece ensemble whose music harkens to the golden age of Brazilian bossa. The groovy five-piece will ignite Port City Music Hall on December 7.

City theater in Biddeford, 205 main st. a charlie Brown christmas, Dec. 1-17. 282-0849 Good theater, 76 congress st. an inspector calls, nov. 1-26; Broadway at Good Theater, nov. 29 - Dec. 3. 835-0895 lyric Music theater, 176 sawyer st., south portland. a christmas carol, nov. 17 - Dec. 3. 799-1421 Maine State Ballet theater, 348 u.s. rte. 1, Falmouth. The nutcracker, nov. 24 - Dec. 3 781-7672 ogunquit playhouse, 10 main st., ogunquit. White christmas, nov. 29 - Dec. 17. 646-5511 portland Ballet theater, 517 Forest ave., The Twenty, nov. 10-12. 799-3273 penobscot theatre Company, 131 main st., Bangor. Disney’s Beauty and the Beast, Dec. 7-30. 942-3333 Schoolhouse arts Center, 16 richville rd., standish. christmas Spectacular, Dec. 1-17. 642-3743

the portland players, 420 cottage rd., south portland. a christmas Story, Dec. 1-17. 799-7337 portland Stage, 25 Forest ave. complications From a Fall, through nov. 12; it’s a Wonderful Life: a Live radio play, nov. 24 - Dec. 24. 774-0465

arT

Bates College Museum of art, olin arts center, 75 russell st., lewiston. rona pondick and robert Feintuch: heads, hands, Feet; sleeping, holding, Dreaming, Dying, through mar. 23. 786-6158 Bowdoin College Museum of art, 245 maine st., Brunswick. Dmitri Baltermants: Documenting and staging a soviet reality, through Jan. 7; constructing revolution: soviet propaganda posters from Between the World Wars, through Feb. 11; art from the northern plains, nov. 9 - July 15. 725-3275 Center for Maine Contemporary art, 21 Winter st., rockland. heather lyon: milk, roll, Wrap, through Dec. 17. 701-5005

2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Colby College Museum of art, 5600 mayflower hill Dr., Waterville. leah modigliani: how long can We tolerate this?, through Jan. 7; Bird Watching: audubon and ornithology in early america, through Feb. 4. 859-5600 Farnsworth art Museum, 16 museum st., rockland. andrew Wyeth at 100, through Dec. 31; marguerite zorach–an art-Filled life, through Jan. 18; other Voices, through Feb. 18. 596-6457 Greenhut Galleries, 146 middle st. thomas connolly, nov. 2-25; 40th anniversary celebration: holiday show, nov. 30 Dec. 31. 772-2693 Maine Jewish Museum, 267 congress st. Kathy Weinberg and Jeffrey ackerman, nov. 9 - Jan. 7. 443-1416 Maine Maritime Museum, 234 Washington st., Bath. shipshape: Decoration and advertising in the merchant Fleet, through Feb. 25; pull together: maritime maine in the 1914-1918 great War, through may 6. 443-1416

MECa, 522 congress st. confabulations of millennia, through Dec. 8. 775-3052 portland Museum of art, 7 congress sq. child’s play, through Dec. 17; model citizens: art and identity in the united states, through Jan. 28. 775-6148 portland Science Center, 68 commercial street, maine Wharf. real pirates: an exhibition from national Geographic, through Jan. 866-822-4780 richard Boyd art Gallery, 15 epps st. serenity: an annual exhibit of Visual arts, through nov. 26. 712-1097

Four D LeGGe r o T i Vis

Space Gallery, 538 congress st. liz miller’s mendacious Veracity, nov. 1 - Jan. 6; alyssa Frietas’s here/now, nov. 1 - Jan. 6. 828-5600 UnE art Gallery, 716 stevens ave. “ahead of her time:” the life and Work of nancy hemenway Barton, through Dec. 20. 221-4499

MuSic

aura, 121 center st. recycled percussion, nov. 11; Joe nichols, nov. 12; hollywood undead, nov. 13; ruckus cup, nov. 25; Jason Bonham led zeppelin experience, nov. 29; David nail, Dec. 2; the White Buffalo, Dec.

remington the rescue mustang (who is sponsored by Portland Monthly) will visit 165 state street on November 14 at 11:30 a.m. Come by and say hi!

courtesy photos

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ExpEriEncE 8; Cam’ron, Dec. 14; Dispatch, Dec. 15. 772-8274 the Boothbay Harbor opera House, 86 townsend ave., Boothbay. Paul Sullivan, Dec. 7; gingerbread house Class, Dec. 15; Dough Ball Preview Party, Dec. 15. 633-5159 Blue, 650 Congress St. irish Sessions, every Wed.; the happy hour, every thurs.; Jazz at Blue, every Sat. 774-4111

Holiday Magic! Dec 2-3, 9-10, 16-17 2017. Saturdays 5-9 pm. Sundays 4-8 pm Tickets at StrawberyBanke.org Strawbery Banke Museum 14 Hancock St. Portsmouth NH 03801

darling’s Waterfront pavilion, 1 Railroad St., Bangor. a Perfect Circle, nov. 10; elton John, nov. 17-18. 358-9327 Empire, 575 Congress St. moon Reunion 7, nov. 24; tall heights, nov. 30; tribute to third eye Blind, Dec. 9. 747-5063 Jonathan’s ogunquit, 92 Bournes ln., ogunquit. James montgomery Band, nov. 11; the Subdudes, nov. 17. 646-4526 Maine academy of Modern Music, 125 Presumpscot St. mamm Presents: Kids & teens open Stage, nov. 10; mamm Presents: a Day of Rock at the Children’s museum & theatre of maine, nov. 11; mamm Presents: the Kids are alright feat. Kate Beever, Dec. 3; mamm Presents: Kids & teens open Stage, Dec. 8. 899-3433 Merrill auditorium, 20 myrtle St. Ballroom with a Twist, nov. 11-12; Brahms First Symphony, nov. 15; Bela Fleck and abigail Washburn, nov. 17; The polar Express, nov. 24- Dec. 23; Banda magda, Dec. 7; Magic of christmas, Dec. 8-23. 842-0800

November 24–December 3, 2017 PortTIX at 207-842-0800 or porttix.com mainestateballet.org

one longfellow Square, 181 State St. Joe K. Walsh, nov. 8; Ronnie earl & the Broadcasters, nov. 10; the Bad Plus, nov. 13; leyla mcCalla, nov. 15; Portland Jazz orchestra, nov. 16; aztec two-Step, nov. 17; griffin house, nov. 18; Seth glier, nov. 19; Session americana, nov. 30; lucy Kaplansky, Dec. 2; Front Country, Dec. 3; andy Statman trio, Dec. 5. 761-1757 port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St. Carbon leaf, nov. 10; yonder mountain String Band, nov. 14; Saint motel, nov. 19; Paranoid Social Club, nov. 22. 956-6000

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2 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Illustration by Gail Csoboth; rendering by Steele Design

portland House of Music and Events, 57 temple St. Chris Roth & the north, nov. 11; Winter Kids, nov. 15; hayley Jane and the Primates, nov. 18. 805-0134 Space Gallery, 538 Congress St. Dan Deacone with Friend Roulette, nov. 12. 828-5600 State theatre, 609 Congress St. David Crosby and Friends, nov. 12; the lone Bellow, nov. 14; Dark Star orchestra, nov. 16; Warren miller’s line of Descent (early Show), nov. 18; Scott Bradlee’s Postmodern Jukebox, nov. 19; Beatles night, nov. 24-26; David Rawlings, nov. 27; St. Vincent, Dec. 1; angel olsen, Dec. 9. 956-6000 Stone Mountain arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd. alasdair Fraser and natalie haas, nov. 10; emily Saliers, nov. 16; an evening of Jazz


with the Tom Snow Quartet, Nov. 17; rosanne Cash, Nov. 18; Lori mcKenna, Dec. 1. 935-7292

Comedy

Community Television Network, 516 Congress St. Playback Theater, the first Fri. of every month. 775-2900 Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 bournes Ln., ogunquit. bob marley, Nov. 24; Paula Poundstone, Nov. 25; Colin Quinn, Dec. 1. 646-4526 Lincoln’s, 36 market St. Laugh Shack Comedy, every Thurs. Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way rd. Capitol Steps, Nov. 11; Paula Poundstone, Nov. 24. 935-7292

Film

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq. The Square, Nov. 16-19. 775-6148 Space Gallery, 538 Congress St. The Prison in Twelve landscapes, Nov. 9. 828-5600

liTerary evenTS

First Friday Fiction at Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St. First Friday Fiction, Nov. 3. 774-1822

A Charlie Brown CHRISTMAS December 1st - 17th No performance December 3rd

Fridays and Saturdays 7:30pm • Sundays 2:00pm Tickets Available for Online Purchase at www.CityTheater.org or Call (207)282-0849

PRINT Bookstore, 273 Congress St. Joseph Fink and Jeffrey Cranor, IT DevoUrS!: A Welcome to Night vale Novel, Nov. 17. 536-4778

TaSTy evenTS

Aurora Provisions, 64 Pine St. Two to three free tastings each month on Tues. 871-9060 Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St. Craft beer tasting every Fri. 956-7322 Cellardoor Winery, brick North, Thompson’s Point. Taste of Fall Cooking Class, Nov. 17; Winter Pairings, Dec. 2. 536-7700 Leroux Kitchen, 161 Commercial St. Free wine tastings on the second Sat. of each month. 553-7665 Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St. music brunch with Sean mencher and Friends, every Sun. 899-3529 Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St. Tapas mondays, every mon. Wines paired with small plates. 775-5652 Otherside Delicatessen, 164 veranda St. monthly wine tastings. 761-9650 Rosemont Markets, Portland and Yarmouth. Two to three free wine tastings each month on Fri. 774-8129 Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St. Tasting bar is open year-round for maine-made wines and spirits. 761-8GIN

don’T miSS

Maine Harvest Festival, Cross Insurance Ctr., bangor. A delicious celebration of maine’s small farms and their bounty, Nov. 11-12. 570-4077 November 2017 23


Make it a Maine Made Holiday Season!

Buy quality gifts made locally by our talented artisans.

36th Augusta Arts & Crafts Show

November 11th & 12th Augusta Civic Center

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December 2rd & 3th USM Sullivan Gym

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ExpEriEncE portland Beer Week, Portland. Join the maine craft beer industry and local businesses as we partake in various events taking place in Portland, maine and surrounding areas, nov. 5-11. leroux thanksgiving Feast, 161 Commercial St. enjoy an early thanksgiving feast with all of the traditional fixings, nov. 18. 553-7665 Family Saturday at Bowdoin College Museum of art, 245 maine St., Brunswick. engage with the exhibitions in this student-run event, nov. 18. 725-3275 Wild Game dinner at little Giant, 211 Danforth St. Join Chef Ryan Wyllie for a multicourse dinner of wild game, accompanied by haus alpenz wine, amari, and cocktails, nov. 28. 747-5045 pairings 101 Holiday treats, 4 thompson’s Pt. hone your tasting and pairing skills at this holiday-themed event, nov. 29. 536-7700 Cookie Bake and Swap at leroux Kitchen, 161 Commercial St. indulge in an evening of baking and decorating that is sure to ignite your holiday spirit, nov. 30. 553-7665 –compiled by Madison Andrews and Sarah Moore. To submit your own event listing, visit: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/

You’re Invited Toast the Holidays with Popcorn & Prosecco Thursday, December 7 | 4:00 – 7:00 p.m. US Custom House | 312 Fore Street | Portland You won’t want to miss AARP Maine’s annual Holiday Party. Enjoy complimentary prosecco and deliciously flavored local popcorn at Portland’s iconic US Custom House. Coming to Merry Madness? We’re on the map! Stop in for some bubbly while holiday shopping on this festive night. Register today at aarp.cvent.com/Holiday.

2 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e


Thomas Connolly

Scenes I’ve Seen November 2 - 25 Opening reception

Thursday, November 2nd 5 - 7pm featuring

Frederick Lynch in the side gallery

1 4 6 M i d d l e St . Por t l a n d , Ma i n e • w w w. g re e n hut g a l l e r i e s . c om • i n f o @ g re e n hut g a l l e r i e s . c om • 2 0 7 . 7 7 2 . 2 6 9 3

53 Exchange Street, Portland November 2017 25


Looking for an exotic abode? This Bar Harbor home takes inspiration from Ancient Egypt. The pyramid scheme “was built by John Clarke of Southwest Harbor in 1977,” says realtor Tricia Blythe of The Knowles Company. “He lived here only a couple of years before he and his wife divorced, and he left the house behind.” The three-bed, two-bath home is on the market $349,000. What drove the dramatic design? Blythe says, “He just wanted a pyramid.”

No glass allowed? No problem. Blue Lobster Wine Company has recently introduced its line of canned wine to the market. Blue Lobster will import California grapes to produce a “Maine-made wine in a can.” Savor the ‘tinny’ memories of fall with crisp rosé, or try a six-pack of their Bayside Blend red. “I was convinced that wine in kegs and cans was smart, economical, and trending,” says owner Chris Gamble. “The only obstacle is the perception some people have. But once people taste our wines they seem to understand that the quality isn’t affected by the can. We’ve even changed the minds of a few who seemed skeptical at first!”

When you market yourself to visitors, do you risk losing your community? That’s the question facing Galen Koch, whose 1976 Airstream, named “Cilla,” is now a mobile studio/exhibition space touring coastal Maine hamlets through Spring 2018, documenting the lives of those who live and work here.

Cilla the Airstream, “named after my grandmother, for good luck,” Koch says. 2 6 p o r t L A n d M O N T H Ly M a G a z I N e

The Dark Knight rises–in Portland! A new Batman comic book series features illustrations inspired by Portland City Hall and alleys and warehouses of the Old Port. Sean Murphy, the artist and writer, recently moved to the Forest City. His comics imagine a world in which a “reformed” Joker runs for City Council to save the city from a Batman who’s gone too far.

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P o rt la n d a f t er da rk

Party of

One

LFK is a welcoming watering hole, whether you’re in company or flying solo.

What ever happened to the lost pleasure of drinking alone?

meaghaN maurice

T

hough a Google search reaps alarming WebMD articles on the matter, should there really be any shame in drinking alone? It’s 2017, people. If Humphrey Bogart pulled it off in 1942, we must be capable of handling the lone nightcap with some level of class. I’m not talking stumbling out of Matthews at midnight on a Tuesday. There are a number of bars in town where one can go to think over a drink and not be pitied, or worse, chatted up repeatedly. In a time when it’s hard to say any of us is ever truly alone, a drink or two without company, or even Siri, could be more therapeutic than you think.

ol ivia ko stishevskaya G un n

solo artist Push open the door to LFK at 5 p.m. on any given day and you’ll find many at the bar seated one-by-one. Located at the corner of State and Pine Streets, this literary haven welcomes those needing a moment alone with their drink. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow looms above as guardian to those quiet thinkers. Come early evening, regulars fill their long-chosen bar stools to nurse a beer and mull over the day’s events. Even with a packed bar, LFK offers a welcoming local hub for newcomers or those needing a night away from the typical Old Port crowd. While you may not catch a name, you’re sure to catch a conversation.

Monday Nights Wine & Bites at Lolita

November 2017 29


po rtl an d af t e r dar k

Indulge in some alone time at Bramhalll.

“that’s one of the

out alone in portland.

You’ll often find another who needs little

conversation and simply craves presence. “

The bartenders are friendly and go about their business behind the bar with a carefree, steady pace, tinkering with new cocktail concoctions and singing along to the playlist. At LFK, even on a busy evening, you and your $3 Miller High Life will never feel like a burden. rust and stardust onday nights are often reserved for nursing what’s left of those weekend hangovers, but sometimes Monday brings ailments all its own. Time for a liquid remedy. Take a trip up Munjoy Hill to Lolita for Tapas Monday and enjoy a small plate paired with a glass of wine–all for only $5. Tapas are served until 10:30 p.m., so you can luxuriate in your alone time. No matter the hour or the size of your party, there’s always a family feeling to the tiny, scarlet eatery. Sitting at the bar on a recent evening, I

M

3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

notice two others enjoying dinner for one. Of the four wines available for $5 a glass, I choose the most easily pronounced red. I may be drinking alone, but it’s no reason to give the bartender any clues as to why. For my tapas, I’m served a sweet little dish of lentils sautéed with mushrooms– just enough to settle the pre-dinner stomach growl. Tapas Mondays are enough to make Lolita a worthy lone wolf destination, and with the bonus of bartenders who are happy to answer questions or talk wine, one doesn’t feel quite so, well, alone. table for one After a last-minute change of plans, I decide a night at home with two cats and a bowl of leftover spaghetti is probably not what the doctor ordered. I make the rainy trek across the bridge into Portland, knowing exactly where this party of one can find a meal without having to worry about small talk. The Little Tap House on the corner of High and Spring Streets offers a warmly lit atmosphere with enough space to slip in and find a cozy seat in the corner. This evening, I make my way to the bar and peruse the drink and dinner menus. With 14 beers on tap, 13 of which are brewed in Maine,

I take my time running down the list, pretending to look for my favorite IPA. Rising Tide’s “Pisces” ($7) jumps out as a little homage to my husband. In an effort to romanticize this evening sans hubby, I order a draft. An order of fish and chips ($17) tops off the evening, and a special plate of honey-drizzled goat cheese, compliments of the chef, makes me feel especially noticed. There’s nothing worse than going to a bar alone and feeling ignored or a nuisance as couples and groups rake in the rounds. It’s the strange paradox of drinking alone: while you may crave being left to your own devices, those little moments of recognition in your solitude can feel like a ray of warmth. Soon enough, a gentleman takes the seat beside me. We sit in companionable silence. We’re eventually joined by a man who looks to be another soloist. These two must run into one another often–their small talk flows easily. Whether they know each other’s name or not doesn’t seem to matter. That’s one of the few comforts of going out alone in Portland. You’ll often find another who needs little conversation and simply craves presence. Plus, you never need to worry about splitting the check. n

joaquin malmann

few comforts of going


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P ers o n al itie s

Maine’s 10 Most intriguing

1&2

meaghaN maurice

Earth Angels mother and daughter Hawa ibrahim and Khadija Hussein cultivate a new life in maine.

“I hope for more than we have now. More for my boys.�

B y sa r aH Mo o r e

November 2017 33


Pers onal iti e s

3 4 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

ter our arrival, my mom attended a meeting at Lewiston City Hall,” where applications to a farming program were circulated. Hawa was one of the only refugees not to throw the application away immediately. “Everyone else was too scared to sign up,” Khadija says. “They thought it was dangerous. That we’d be taken out into the fields and killed or something.” Meanwhile, Khadijah and her siblings, who are now scattered across the country from Ohio to Texas, went to the local elementary and then to middle school. “I had a teacher in Texas for a couple of months who helped me learn some English, but no one knew what to do with us at my new school. I spent two years coloring and watching TV.” She was eleven. “One day, I turned to my mom and told her I hated waking up to do nothing every day. I slept all the time; I had no purpose. My mom was furious. She drove to the school and screamed at the

teachers, the principal. She wouldn’t stop until they got a translator and listened to what she had to say. She came here for a better life for her children. She wasn’t going to let us sit and watch TV all day.” By the end of sixth grade, Khadija was finally getting support. “Once I started to learn, I started to enjoy it.” She began taking after-school homework groups and staying in the library to catch up. By sophomore year she was in mainstream classes. But her ESL classes at Lewiston Middle School showed her the challenges kids like her faced in the system. “One teacher gave us a ten-page book and made us read the same sentences over and over for the whole year. We were teenagers. We weren’t learning anything! The parents complained. The

meaghan maurice

K

hadija Hussein, 22, sits in the long grass beside rows of colorful chard and heads of lettuce, neatly planted over this slice of the Packard-Littlefield Farm in Lisbon. The sun is bright, and the morning is already hot, though the yellowing corn warns of the season’s end. This farmland is owned by Cultivating Community and farmed by members of the New American Sustainable Agriculture Project. Khadija’s mother, Hawa Ibrahim, 56, was one of the first to join the program in 2006, after leaving Kenya with Khadija and her six other children for a new life in America. The family arrived in Dallas, Texas, at the end of 2005, where they stayed for a short time with the support of the International Rescue Committee. “After four months, we were on our own,” Khadijah says. “We didn’t know what to do. We didn’t have a car or even a driving license, so how could my mom get a job? A relative told us to come and join them in Maine.” She shakes her head, then laughs. “We traveled for three days to get here. Dallas was hot, so we arrived in flip-flops. It was early March. The snow was so high. I cried and cried to my mum: ‘You made me take the bus for three days to torture me like this?’ I’d never seen snow like this before.” Hawa had farmed the family’s land in Africa until war and persecution of Somalis drove them out. “We had a farm there. Animals, land, a cool lake to jump in when it got too hot. We left all that behind. Soon af-

She recalls a class vacation in high school, when she and a friend walked into a grocery store. They both wore hijabs. The store fell silent as the girls entered.


head of the department came in one day, furious. She slammed a big, complicated book on the table and said, ‘You want a challenge? Here you go.’” Like Hawa, Khadija wasn’t afraid of making her voice heard. “I told her I just wanted to learn. I wanted someone to actually teach us something.” Despite a late start and significant interruptions, in 2013, Khadija graduated with her year group. That summer, she attended a career course for teaching and enrolled at Central Maine Community College. As she talks, a flying figure leaps over her shoulder, catapulting into her lap with a roar. Her sons Muhammed Aden, 4, and Iiyase Aden, 3, are tireless, capering balls of energy. They dance among the rows of vegetables, springing back to show off a handful of milkweed or field daisies. Now that she’s put down roots, does Maine feel like home? “Yes and no. I’ve been here a while, and I know it well. I know where to turn if I need help. But at the same time, there’s always someone to remind you this is not your home.” She recalls a class vacation in high school, when she and a friend walked into a grocery store. They both wore hijabs. The store fell silent as the girls entered. “My friend told me we should just run, leave. I said, ‘Why should I? I haven’t stolen anything. Why are they staring like we’re aliens?’” This same streak of courage would make Khadija turn to confront hostile children at school who’d tell her she didn’t belong and that her family was just here to collect food stamps. “I’d say, ‘Yes we do belong. And you’re taking food stamps, too. But we’re here because war drove us from our country.’” Despite her youth, you get the impression you’re in the presence of a tireless force of will. Khadija will go back to CMCC to finish her degree this winter. She’ll continue to help Hawa with the farm, selling the last of the fall harvest. Mother and daughter sell their produce at farmers’ markets, pantries, schools, restaurants, and CSA shares through Fresh Start Farm food hub. She’ll also cook for Viles Arboretum, the Augusta market stand where she and a group of women sell Somali food. Looking ahead, Hawa dreams of a farm and land of their own where she can raise animals and crops. “We’re trying to save for a home and some land,” Khadija says. “I hope for more than we have now. More for my boys.”

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November 2017 35


Pe rSo nal iti e S

3 Arctic Star The climate change Angus King fears is the very reason behind an emerging Northwest Passage. The risk-taker in him is ready to jump at the opportunity.

E

ven when he’s in Washington D.C., Senator Angus King has one foot in Maine and his eyes on the Arctic Circle. The former governor and Maine's first Independent U.S. Senator believes melting ice caps could open the way for Maine to become the U.S. gateway to the Arctic and the Far East beyond. We caught up with King during his travels around the state to discover what lies beyond the horizon for Maine and the Arctic. It’s been a year since Portland hosted a meeting of the Arctic Council. Did it break any ice?

It was a big deal because it literally put us on the map in matters of the Arctic. Heretofore, nearly all these meetings had taken place in Scandinavia, Alaska, or Canada. There’d never been anything on the East Coast of the U.S. It was a symbolic recognition by this multinational organization that Maine is now a part of the Arctic discussion. 3 6 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

B y Sarah Moore

Did it change things in Maine?

We’re already seeing the most tangible effect of this engagement in our relationship with Eimskip. [The number of containers passing through Portland’s ports has tripled since 2013, and Eimskip plans to introduce a weekly shipment by 2020.] I saw Eimskip trucks out on the road during my motorcycle trip in central Maine this summer. That felt significant for me. I think a wonder-

“Eastport has around 65 feet of depth just a few feet from shore. New York would kill for that!”

ful symbolic gesture of this burgeoning relationship came when the Maine Brewers’ Guild sent a container load of beer up to Iceland. So many people asked me about Arctic development during my travels throughout Maine. I’ve seen a deepening interest in this issue among the Maine public. Does this mean we really are “the gateway to the Far North?”

Realistically, we’re talking about progress that will take place over the course of decades–anything from 15 to 30 years to develop the infrastructure and work out the insurance and trade details. That being said, the melt is happening faster than we predicted. The volume of ice in the Arctic Ocean has declined by two thirds since 1979. How do you align your two perspectives as an advocate of Arctic opportunities but also an environmentalist? Is it bittersweet?

I’ve spent a great deal of time working on climate-change issues, trying to alert people to the risks. There’s no doubt most of


King and a team of U.S. and Danish scientists survey icebergs off the western coast of Greenland in 2016.

the effects of climate change will be negative. And, of course, a sea-level rise is going to have a huge impact on a coastal state like Maine. But one of my main principles in life is that you have to play the hand that’s dealt to you. The reality is, of all these negative effects, the opening up of the Arctic creates new opportunities. We’re facing an extraordinary moment in human history. I’ve likened it to the discovery of the Mediterranean Sea: A body of water that has been completely closed to major human activity throughout history is suddenly available for transit, for energy, commerce, and recreation. I don’t feel like I’m betraying my concern over climate change by engaging with this. I think, if this is happening, what are the implications–good and bad– for Maine? What makes us so perfectly poised to lead the U.S. into the Arctic?

Photos courtesy u.s. seN. ANgus KiNg’s office

Eastport, Searsport, and Portland are the three closest U.S. ports to the Arctic. Eastport has around 65 feet of depth just a few feet from shore. New York would kill for that! What are the challenges we face on a national level? You’ve spoken with conviction of the need for more heavy icebreakers.

The icebreaker is essential infrastructure, and we’ve just woefully neglected it. The best way to think of it? Icebreakers are like the interstate highway of the Arctic. Right now, we’ve only got one and a half. The half is a ship that we’re using for parts! It’s embarrassing. Meanwhile, the Russians have an estimated 17 to 40, including several nuclear-powered ships. It’s like we’re traveling on old country roads, and they’re zooming

“I’ve likened it to the Mediterranean Sea.”

along highways. So this is the new Space Race? The Arctic Race?

Well, if we’re talking about transit and commerce opportunities, infrastructure makes a huge difference. And there’s an issue of security. Without getting into anything classified, the Russians have made significant steps into the militarization of their Arctic fleet in terms of bases, ports, and assets. I should say that the Arctic is one area where we have actually been able to work cooperatively with the Russians! It’s a bright spot in our relationship. How soon will we see results? Will Bath Irons Works stand a chance of winning the contract?

[The Senate Defense Appropriations Subcommittee added $1 billion to fund the creation of a new icebreaker in 2016. China, a non-Arctic Nation, recently allocated $300M toward its second icebreaker, according to Global Trade Magazine.] I think there are going to be serious steps toward creating icebreakers in the next few years. We really need a multiple procurement, and it needs to happen soon. The major issue is how much it’ll cost. We’re trying to get to the bottom of how countries like Finland are doing it for half a billion. As for Bath Iron Works–perhaps.

“I know why you’re here. You’re here because you understand that a day of seeing is worth more than a month of reading.” I found that to be very profound and quite true. I went to Greenland with the Commandant of the Coast Guard to conduct research in national security and climate change. We met with the Danish Navy, who run Greenland’s military and foreign affairs, and went out on their frigate with two American climate scientists, John Englander and Bob Corell–who actually summers in Maine. Corell was visibly shaken by what we saw. It’d changed so much in the two years since he’d last visited. But like I said, you play the hand that’s dealt. Greenlanders are gaining land for farming and grazing from the retreating ice sheets, while also losing their old ways of life. They feel it’s a double-edged sword. In your opinion, what are the chances of an Independent President of the United States?

[Laughs] I think it would be very difficult. The time may come, but it’d be very, very difficult!

In 2014, King visited Camp Nautilus in Alaska and traveled aboard the USS New Mexico, a nuclear powered attack submarine.

You were the only Congress member to join a fact-finding mission to Greenland in 2016. What did you learn on the trip?

Yes, that’s right. On a previous Congressional trip to Pakistan, I met a very old man who took my hand and said, November 2017 37


Pers onal iti e s

4

The Look The camera loves Maine’s emerging star yamilah saravong in the holiday hit movie Daddy’s Home 2.

“I was like, ‘So…yes?’ My mom was like, ‘You got it!’ And I was like, ‘Cool!’ Then I called all my friends.” ctress, model, honorary member of Mark Wahlberg’s entourage–these are unexpected aliases for a small 11-year-old bouncing a soccer ball around a field in her white-and-blue uniform. Yamilah Saravong lives in York with her parents, brother, and two dogs. Earlier this year, she spent two weeks in Western Massachusetts filming Daddy’s Home 2 with costars Wahlberg, Will Ferrell, Mel Gibson, John Cena, and John Lithgow. Yamilah’s first gig came when she was five years old, appearing in Miss Saigon at Ogunquit Playhouse, where she continues 3 8 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

to act year after year. “Every summer I do a kid’s camp there.” She still remembers her first speaking part. “South Pacific. It was ‘The boat!’ four times before running across the stage.” Before Daddy’s Home 2, she’d only acted on camera for a Lifespan Health commercial and a PSA. Jill Saravong, Yamilah’s mother, says luck played a hand in her audition. “Movie work is so competitive,” Jill says. “The filmmakers were very specific. They wanted someone already living in New England, of a certain age, height, and look.” Yamilah got a callback. After the second round of auditions, her mom received an email from their agent saying the filmmakers wanted her for the role and were awaiting

final approval from Paramount Pictures. “She printed the email out and told my dad first, so they could film my reaction,” Yamilah says. “They gave me the paper. I started reading and didn’t get what it said at all, so I didn’t get excited. I was like, ‘So…yes?’ My mom was like, ‘You got it!’ And I was like, ‘Cool!’ Then I called all my friends.” Her favorite scene is one she filmed with Will Ferrell. “I memorized the whole script–that’s part of what I had to do for the audition–but then Will Ferrell started doing improv, and I didn’t know what to say at all! It was only my second day.” Yamilah loved life on set. She waxes lyrical about a food truck with drawers full

photo provided by Jillian Saravong

A

By Je ane e du dl e y


“I memorized the whole script, but then Will Ferrell started doing improv, and I didn’t know what to say at all!”

of candy and gum, and a magical catering company that would prepare anything she wanted for breakfast. The crew made her feel important, but more surprisingly, the stars were warm and friendly. “Mark [Wahlberg] was great with the kids,” Jill says. “When Yamilah would slip away from the set and return, he’d notice and say, ‘Hey, you’re back!’”

“H

e gave me a ‘Wahlberger’ hat,” Yamilah says, referring to the uniform of Wahlberg’s entourage, which includes “Rasta Phil” and a stuntman named Cowboy. Between scenes, Mel Gibson told the kids jokes, and John Cena signed auto-

graphs for the young actors and all of their friends and siblings back home. As for the future, Yamilah shrugs. “I’d have to think about that,” she says. “I don’t really know. I hope to do another movie because they’re really fun. I just want to see where it takes me. It’s a different road every week!” She’d like to visit Los Angeles and Bora Bora, but she doesn’t want to move out of Maine. “I recently did an audition for Nickelodeon. If I got it, we’d go there just to film, then come back if they need us a couple weeks later,” she says. “I could still be with my friends, be home, go to my school.” Daddy’s Home 2 is playing now in movie theaters. November 2017 39


pers onal iti e s

5 Undaunted There are five quadruple amputees who survived their injuries from the Iraq and Afghanistan Wars–

Travis Mills is one of them.

I

By Ju l ia tol str up

f you ask Travis Mills about the word hero, he’ll tell you that it doesn’t apply to what happened to him. “I just had a bad day at work.” That bad day came on April 10, 2012, during his third tour in Afghanistan. Mills dropped a bag on the ground by his side, setting off an Improvised Explosive Device (IED). In that moment, his life changed forever. There are five quadruple-amputees who survived their injuries from the Iraq and Afghanistan Wars–Travis Mills is one of them.

4 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

Over the next 19 months, Mills relearned how to live. Returning to the U.S., he faced the long road to recovery at Walter Reed Military Medical Center in Maryland with his wife, Kelsey, and daughter, Chloe, by his side. Those early days were dark and difficult. Mills suffered from severe phantom limb pain as he healed and then learned to adjust to life with four prosthetic limbs. Mills told his wife to take their assets and start a new life without him. She refused. Slowly, he began to find his way. Chloe, just six months old at the time, became his guiding light.

This summer, 56 wounded veterans and their families visited the Maine Chance Lodge and Retreat for its inaugural season.

“When I got injured I was pretty down on myself, unsure whether I could still be a productive father and husband. Seeing my daughter every day made life better.” Mills strapped Chloe in a wheelchair with him, and the two visited other families around the hospital. He came to be known as the Mayor of Building 62. “My daughter is one of the biggest reasons I was able to get better. We got to learn how to walk together.” Finally, Mills and his family were able to return to Manchester. After all the support they’d received at Walter Reed, Travis and Kelsey felt compelled to pay it forward. The two considered launching a care-package charity for deployed soldiers.


courtesy photos

“When I got injured I was very down on myself, unsure whether I could still be a productive father and husband. Seeing my daughter every day made life better.”

“People in Maine saw I went kayaking, downhill mountain biking, and snowboarding. They suggested I bring some of my friends out to Maine to try adaptive sports.” Mills began hosting wounded soldiers and their families Camp Kennebec in North Belgrade. Very quickly, things outgrew the

capacity of Bread of Life Ministries, the non-profit supporting them at the time “It got too big for them to handle. My wife and I decided right then this was too important to pass up.” The Travis Mills Foundation was born. (Continued on page 94)

November 2017 41


Pers onal iti e s

6

Globe Trotter Amanda Charlton Herbert chases adventure–on four legs.

A

B y sa r ah Mo o r e

manda Charlton Herbert was eight the first time she tagged along to the therapeutic horse-riding program where her mother volunteered. She remembers helping to brush and lead the horses, feeling no fear as a small child among the large creatures. By 12, she was being paid to train horses to jump. “One of my first instructors

4 2 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

told me I was an instinctual rider, whatever that means,” Herbert says. Ten years down the line, she was competing full-time on the hunter jumper circuit while juggling classes at NYU. But as her burgeoning career gained momentum, Herbert became disillusioned with the entire business. “I was working so hard to get far on the circuit. The whole thing became so ego-driven and focused on winning. I lost sight of

my horsemanship, of why I got into it in the first place. So I quit college and the competition circuit and moved out to Wyoming to work on a guest ranch,” she says and laughs. “I guess you could call it my quarter-life crisis.” Life realigned for Herbert among the mountains. “I fell in love with the endless expanse of nature, the wilderness, the whole magic of it, and I realized this was how I wanted to live my entire life.” In the years that followed, she traveled and worked across the Midwest for seasons at a time, always returning to her parents’ home in Poland. “It’s my favorite place. I see myself settling in Maine, near my family.” A faint lilt in her accent and the occasional ‘ma’am’ belies her time in the Wild West. It was in 2016, while working on a ranch in Colorado and living “in a tiny cabin with no water or electricity,” that Herbert first got the idea to enter an endurance horse race. “Another rancher told me about a girl he knew who’d done the Gobi Gallop. I chose the Mongol Derby because it’s the world’s longest and toughest horse race. I thought, ‘If I’m going to do this, why not really go for it?’” She returned to Maine to prepare for the race, even running the Kennebunk Marathon “to get in the mindset for endurance.” The Mongol Derby, launched in 2009, recreates the infamous postal route estab-

courtesy photos

From Maine to the Mongolian steppes,


lished by Genghis Khan in 1224. Riders traverse over 600 miles of vast, uninhabited steppes, mountains, rivers, and forests. The Mongolian mounts they ride are quite different from the thoroughbred jumpers that Herbert trained and rode in competition at home. “They’re semi-wild. Nine times out of ten, your horse would have a bucking fit as soon as you put the saddle on its back. Then you have to endure another round of bucking once you mount.” Like Khan’s postal messengers of the 13th century, riders change horses every 25 miles, camping out under the stars at night or staying with

"My experience in Mongolia continues to inspire my art," Herbert says. Pictured: Monglia, Opus III.

“I quit college and the competition circuit and moved out to Wyoming. I guess you could call it my quarterlife crisis.”

the scattered local herders. “I remember sitting in a herder’s hut and crying to an old Mongolian woman. She didn’t speak a word of English, but she sat there and listened to me, comforted me,” Herbert says.

H

erbert joined a field of 40 experienced riders whittled down from hundreds of applicants. Armed with GPS systems, they were released into the Mongolian wilderness to forge a path along the network of support systems that stretched across a swathe of virtually uninhabited land. “Someone told me that only one percent of Mongolia is inhabited,” Her(Continued on page 95)

November 2017 43


Pe rs onal iti e s

7 In recent weeks, Vacationland has vaulted the former Yale undergrad to new heights on The Daily Show With Trevor Noah.

PC Guy, Maine Guy John Hodgman loves his Maine retreat, even though “I know nothing about letting go.” In his new book Vacationland, the closet Mac owner takes our humor in the North Woods to a new level of weird. B y sa r ah Mo o r e

4 4 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

B

y the end of 2012, John Hodgman had finished That’s All, his third book of farcical trivia and fake facts, and was awaiting the end of the world as predicted by the Mayan calendar. When the apocalypse didn’t arrive, Hodgman was alive but unsure of his next move. “I didn’t truly believe in the end of the world, of course, but if you say it enough, it starts to feel real. I went into 2013 with a terrifyingly clean slate.” “Clean slate” is a relative term. Hodgman pens the weekly “Judge John Hodgman” advice column for The New York Times. His podcast of the same name has broadcast for over seven years with Maximum Fun productions. He’s recognized everywhere for his regular character appearances on The Daily Show with Jon Stewart. But personal projects had stalled. “I felt out of material. Like I didn’t have any stories to tell. I started comedy residencies at the Union Theater and the Bell House in Brooklyn. There’s nothing like knowing there’s an audience waiting to hear you speak to draw out stories and ideas. Panic catalyzes creativity.” During these performances, “apart from a good Ayn Rand imitation,” Hodgman found himself avoiding the impersonations and absurdist comedy that had characterized his previous work. He retired the ‘Deranged Million-


“A stopped clock is correct twice a day, but a sundial can be used to stab someone, even at nighttime.” –John Hodgman, More Information Than You Require aire,’ a beloved Daily Show character modeled on pre-presidential Donald Trump, and dreamed of a hiatus from the nonsense trivia of his early books. “It’s gone sour. I feel like the market is now so saturated with fake facts. Modern culture owes me royalties for fake facts.” What tumbled out was, surprisingly, the truth: stories of family, personal incidents, “and, as trite as it sounds, impending mortality.” These anecdotes form the basis of Vacationland: True Stories from Painful Beaches, Hodgman’s latest book (Viking, $25). Hodgman’s wife, Kathleen, is a lifelong

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visitor to Maine. The couple owns a “lessfancy three-bedroom house on a flat, muddy bay” in Brooklin. “The car is always running. She’s got one foot out the door ready to leave New York for Maine in a second.” Hodgman himself is originally from Brookline, Massachusetts, which provides him with the perfect perspective to examine Maine and our inhabitants with a wary fascination and respect. “We call Maine Vacationland, but it’s cold and challenging. The people who come here are attuned to nature. Maine doesn’t care if you live or die. I’m becoming more

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(Continued on page 96)

November 2017 45


Pers onal iti e s

8

Survivor

Maine Maritime grad Jessica Hewitt has much to teach about loss, redemption, and the sinking of the Bounty.

D

espite her education at Maine Maritime Academy and experience as a deckhand, nothing could’ve prepared Jessica Hewitt for what she faced aboard the Bounty at the hands of Hurricane Sandy. The Bounty, a replica of the Royal British Navy HMS Bounty, was built in 1962 for the MGM movie Mutiny on the Bounty starring Marlon Brando. On October 28, 2012, as she was sailing from Connecticut to Florida, hurricane-force winds sent the 50-year-old ship below the waves of the Atlantic. Hewitt and 13 of her shipmates survived. To begin with, tall-ship work is a rough

gig. “Sailing is miserable,” Hewitt says and laughs. “It’s cold or it’s hot, you’re always wet, there’s no air-conditioning, and there’s no shower. It can be brutal. You stand on deck throughout your entire watch, getting absolutely pounded by the weather.” Much has been speculated about the fateful night the Bounty wrecked off the coast of North Carolina [See our story, “Mutiny on the Bounty,” April 2013]. A 2014 U.S. Coast Guard investigation blamed the Bounty’s captain, Robin Walbridge, and the ship’s management company. But so often, the truth is more complicated than a single bad judgment call. “I still have some anger toward Robin Walbridge,” Hewitt says. “I didn’t know it was such a big system. Often hurricanes

“When I was in the water, my life felt so fragile. Like a piece of string that could be cut at any moment.” 4 6 P o r t l a n d M o n t h ly M a g a z i n e

downgrade to a much smaller weather pattern, and we all knew the Bounty had been through a hurricane before in much worse shape. But here’s the thing: I know he had our best interests in mind because he made sure we had immersion suits, which are expensive and aren’t required on an uninspected vessel. The Bounty wasn’t required to have these on board, but we had plenty. Thank goodness we did, because not as many of us would have survived if we hadn’t.” Captain Walbridge didn’t survive the sinking. His body was never recovered. Deckhand Claudene Christian also perished. For months, she worked eagerly aboard Bounty as a volunteer and, according to Hewitt, had been added to the ship’s payroll only days before Bounty set sail on her final voyage. “Her first pay stub was sent to her family after her death.” Much of Hewitt’s harrowing experience on the Bounty stays with her–the loss of her shipmates, her leap from the tilting deck, the sight of the ship’s rigging crashing down on her floating crew, the feeling of being tangled in lines and pulled under. “When I was in the water, my life felt so fragile,” she says. “Like a piece of string that could be cut at any moment.” “For three months after the sinking, I (Continued on page 96)

courtesy photos

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P ers o n al itie s

9 from top: william lord; americaN-rail.com; detroit publishiNg

Dreamer After an alarming airborne incident, Wayne Davis was inspired to put Maine back on the railway map.

D

ol ivia Ko stishe vsKaya G un n

uring a shuttle to Washington D.C. in the mid 1980s, Maine banker Wayne Davis felt his life flash before his eyes. “As we landed, we blew a tire and began spinning.” He turns his hand in a slow circle. Every revolution “brought us closer and closer to the terminal.” Luckily, nobody was hurt on the plane, but by the time he de-

bouched, he felt differently about his travel options. Calling back to his Maine office, he recounted his close call to the receptionist, who’d just returned herself to Boston from Washington, D.C. by train. Now there was a blast from the past. “I rode the train a lot when I worked in Personnel in the Navy in the 1950s,” he says. “I was in uniform from 1954 to 1961.” This

“All my friends thought I’d lost it. ‘Why are you doing this?’ they said.”

(Continued on page 98)

November 2017 49


Pers onal iti e s

10 Off the Wall

Patrick Corrigan doesn’t just think outside the box. He thinks without the box.

lance around Portland and you’ll spot Patrick Corrigan’s enigmatic creations hiding in plain sight. His handiwork dances along the bar in Local 188 and across the stage at Mayo Street Arts. It’s hard to miss his studio on 107 Hanover Street. Dubbed “Fort Awesome” when he first rented it in 2004, the exterior wall sports a proliferation of poppies. Today, it doubles as the Apohadion Theater, a music and entertainment venue. Born in Woonsocket, Rhode Island, Corrigan knew early on he wanted to be an artist. “I was very close to my grandfather. He helped raise me. He was a golden-age comic book artist in the 1930s and 40s. When I was about seven, I found these amazing comics of The Flame and V-Man in the attic. He told me he drew them. At that moment, I set my sights on art.” Corrigan earned a BFA in illustration at Massachusetts College of Art in 1993. He moved to Portland a year later. At the time, he made a living creating commercial illustrations for the likes of The New York Times, Detroit Free Press, Chicago Tribune, San Francisco Magazine, Boston Magazine, and Amazon. He also picked up corporate commissions in Maine with Bass Shoes, LL Bean, Portland Public Market, and Funtown Splashtown. Illustration was Corrigan’s metier until

5 0 P o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

1998, when he teamed up with Jay and Allison Villani to launch Local 188 at 685 Congress. Corrigan created the whimsical figures and details that adorn the bar and walls. He also curated a gallery of artwork to hang in the restaurant. Rubbing shoulders with a host of fine artists, Corrigan’s mind was made up: “No more illustration.” He remembers resisting calls from publications at the time. “I totally drowned that in the tub. I wanted more freedom. The deadline situation with illustrations is ridiculous–sometimes I wouldn’t sleep for two days.” Besides occasional illustration work, like a recent album cover for The Fogcutters, painting has taken center stage. Corrigan is currently represented by Great Big Artwork Gallery. In the wild, his work can be spotted at “Local 188, LFK, Salvage BBQ, Sonny’s, 33 Elmwood, The Children’s Museum of Maine, Blyth & Burrows, Mayo Street Arts, Speedwell Gallery, and in The Bollard.” In addition to painting, he became involved in music and performance art. “Crank Sturgeon, a performance artist I went to school with in Boston, moved to Maine. We collaborated for ten years on various performance projects. We’ve done the ‘The Sacred and Profane’ avant-garde art festival on Peaks Island for several years together. Our collaboration dovetailed into some of my painting work.

Corrigan’s mind was made up: “No more illustration. I totally drowned that in the tub.”

diane hudson

G

B y di ane Hudso n


He made soundtracks for my paintings, embedding a speaker in them, creating ‘sound paintings.’”

C

orrigan’s other work for the festival includes a collaboration with craftsman Chris Wright. The pair collected handmade signs used and discarded by panhandlers around Portland and built a large airplane, which they dubbed the “Hoboplane.” And then there’s Patrick Corrigan the musician. In addition to performing and recording with his band Plains, he’s working on releasing “an ambient, experimental album with a band called Jesus Cactus, featuring the great jazz drummer RJ Miller of Brunswick. Striking photographs by Black Opal, a street photographer from Japan,

will make up the album artwork.” Jesus Cactus performed in the Apohadion Theater this summer. Considering his space, referred to as “the Bayside Subterranean,” Patrick reflects on the past year spent renovating the studio and performance hall. “Building this place has taken a year’s toll on my work, but it’s finally come together. Now we’re presenting live music from near and far, movies, lectures, plays. New York filmmaker Cory McAbee is even coming to give a lecture on ‘deep astronomy’ and transdimensional travel.” Is there anything in the creative realm he has yet to master? “Oh yes! Animation. I’d love to set some of my stories to animation. I have an idea for a kid's show ready to go, but the way I'd like to see it would take a lot of time. But the kids, they deserve it.” n November 2017 51


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he 18-Hour City. It’s a nifty investment handle, though it has yet to crack into café society. Will it become the lingua franca of commercialreal-estate gurus? How better to describe emerging cultural capitals like Portland, Maine! We’re not too urban, like Manhattan–a nerve-jangling ‘24-hour city.’ We’re walkable and suburban, yet we still enjoy the illusion of a skyline, though our proportions are so bijou gulls and eagles can rest on our tallest buildings. November 2017 53


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e haven’t ‘renaissanced’ in such a mercantile way that everyone’s sick of us, and (I’ll drop to a whisper) we’re just a shade too genuine to be hipster. Oh, yeah, Portland, Maine. For many visitors, we beckon like the last drink they’ve never tried. After all, Brooklyn’s so 2014. Ditto for Portland, Oregon, with 10 times our population but a fraction of our originality. Richard Barringer of The Muskie School is interested in the concept and its origins. “It started with the 24-hour city, with real-estate types. The first time I heard of the 24-hour city was from a developer in Boston in the 1980s, before Boston became a 24-hour city. I feel that yes, Portland is evolving into an 18-hour city, with exceptions. There’s the fragmentation of effort, and the absence of a coherent strategy for

“An 18-Hour City is a second-tier city with above-average urban population growth that offers a lower cost of living and lower cost of doing business than firsttier cities.” –Rebecca Lake moving forward–not just a haphazard response to immediate real-estate opportunities. Right now, there’s the absence of a really commanding sense of public transportation here, because the age of the automobile is coming to a crashing end, I hope, as a public transportation solution.” The attraction of an 18-hour city seems to dovetail with the new study “Greater Portland Tomorrow: Choices for Sustained Prosperity,” Fall 2017. This report, the work of a team led by Barringer, is available electronically at digitalcommons.usm.maine.edu. Just like the 18-hour city criteria, the need for new workers coming to Portland is a driver. Consider this variable, addressed by graphs in the study: “Imagine if no one moved to Portland for 16 years, not a soul. What would happen to the economy and labor force? What about taxes for public schools and needed public infrastructure? Then, imagine that 1,500

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Where can newbies claim their own slice of this up-and-coming 18-hour city? On the Market: New condo developments on the Portland peninsula have cropped up in the past few years, offering sleek modern 1-br and 2-br apartments and studios in the West end and newly gentrified neighborhoods like east bayside. Hiawatha, 667 Congress Street (1-br apartments from $1,560/month) 89 Anderson Street (1-br apartments from $1,200/month) 113 Newbury Street (1-br condos from $340,00) Munjoy Heights, 118 Congress Street West End Place, 72 Pine Street

In the Works: According to Portland’s Planning department, there are 16 major projects currently under construction, amounting to a total of 690 proposed units. The estimated construction cost for these 16 projects is over $97 million. 101 York Street, 63 market-rate apartments under construction. 510 Cumberland Avenue, 82 affordable units proposed. 218-220 Washington Avenue, 45 units proposed. 383 Commercial Street, 272 luxury units proposed. 161 York Street, 11 luxury units proposed.

young adults move to Portland each year. How would this change the labor force and economy?” Because Huffington Post financial writer Rebecca Lake helped conceptualize the 18-Hour City and legitimized it with her definition of the term in Investopedia, here’s how she breaks this “viable investment alternative” down: “An 18-Hour City is a second-tier city with above-average urban population growth that offers a lower cost of living and lower cost of doing business than first-tier cities.” Lake identifies the “big six” as first tier:

“Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Washington, D.C.” hat’s an 18-hour city, then? “Charlotte, Denver and Portland, for example, have become target for Millennials [the word emphasized in click-thru blue] whose goal is launching or advancing their career. Eighteen-hour cities are often characterized by the availability of recreation and entertainment opportunities that extend beyond what the typical suburban city affords.” Whoops, she means the ‘other’ Portland.

Paradoxically, I feel Charlotte, Denver, and the ‘other’ Portland are so obviously 18-hour cities that they aren’t really 18-hour cities anymore. Why would (I use Lake’s term) Millennials target these destinations if their older brothers and sisters have already tried them on and pushed them to the back of the closet (along with that velour hoodie you were sure would change everything)? Sorry, Portland, Oregon, but PDX is so 2011. PWM is the rising commodity. Just look at the Yahoo smackdown between the two Portlands online. Portlandia is in its last season. That says it all. This is the year of PWM rising (we have much better sculptures at our airport than Denver). Oh, and by the way, the proper pronunciation of “Keep Portland Weird” is ‘WEE-ID.’ n November 2017 55



H u n gry E yE

These beautiful maine cookbooks reflect the rhythms of the seasons.

meaghaN maurice

B y C l a i rE Z . C r amEr

here’s nothing like fall weather and autumn’s harvest of apples, squashes, greens, onions, and shallots to make cooking fun again. We look for inspiration from four Maine women–Annemarie Ahearn, Erin French, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, and her daughter Sara Jenkins. All four make their livings cooking, and as cookbook authors. The books–Ahearn’s Full Moon Suppers at Salt Water Farm, French’s The Lost Kitchen, and the Jenkins’ The Four Seasons of Pasta–are good reads and gorgeous to look at. All three are written to correspond with the seasons and seasonal produce, vivid with terrific, original recipes using the fall crops available locally.

November 2017 57


Hungry EyE

An Erin French Trick: Serve dinner on pretty, mismatched old china from antique shops or grandma’s cupboard. Spend a little time with the Lost Kitchen cookbook and you’ll never covet a matched set of dishes again.

tranSForMEd tranSplant isconsin native Annemarie Ahearn never planned to be a Mainer. She puts it right out there on the introduction page of Full Moon Suppers: “When I was eighteen years old, my parents decided to buy their own land on the Maine coast. My father was fulfilling a lifelong dream. I was, in a word, disappointed.”

Get Cooking! The Four Seasons of Pasta, Avery, Penguin/Random House, New York, $35

The Lost Kitchen, Clarkson Potter, Penguin/Random House, New York, $32.50

Full Moon Suppers, Roost Books, Boulder, $35

5 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

But after college “did not feed my soul in the way that I was hoping,” she moved to the family farm in Lincolnville. “My plan was to open a cooking school for home cooks and teach people how to grow a kitchen garden.” In 2009, she did, naming her school Salt Water Farm after an essay in E. B. White’s One Man’s Meat. She now offers classes and workshops from May to October. “Shaking cream into butter, pulling a carrot from the earth, making a loaf of bread, cutting apart a whole chicken–it’s the most basic skills that students find to be transformative,” Ahearn says. “I find people trust recipes and the food media more than they trust their own natural ability in the kitchen. The only way to improve as a cook is to make mistakes and learn from them. The mark of a good cook is the ability to make a meal without a recipe and with limited resources.” True enough, but I want to learn some new tricks from her. And I do. Each chapter in Full Moon Suppers creates a complete menu appropriate to the calendar month, noting the Native American name for that month’s full moon. We start in the September (Harvest Moon) chapter at a recipe for “Queen of Smyrna Squash Soup,” because local farmers are still offering many winter squash varieties, and because it’s such a beautiful recipe title.

No Queens of Smyrna to be found in Portland’s farmers’ market, though, so I choose a small green hubbard and a honeynut squash. This is a vegetarian soup–you make your own vegetable stock with onions, carrots, celery, fresh herbs, and fresh fennel. Lucky for us, fennel is now an easily found local crop. The squash is split (or peeled and cubed), rubbed with olive oil, and roasted with sprigs of thyme and whole garlic cloves. You whirl the tender flesh in a blender with the stock, adding dabs of honey and a pinch of red pepper flakes to taste, which gives this soup its spicy, haunting flavor. rom November’s menu (Beaver Moon) we tackle “Oven Tart with Sweet Onions, Pecorino, Anchovies, Caper, and Lemon,” since local onions are so fresh just now. Ahearn’s tart is made with a simple yeast bread crust rather than pastry. It’s a variation of the traditional French pissaladiere tart made with caramelized onions, grated hard cheese, and anchovies. She spins it by adding thyme, a few red pepper flakes, capers, and paper-thin slices of lemon. The onions are sauteed in butter rather than olive oil. This combination sings in unanticipated, complex ways. I’ve already made it three times and committed it to memory, the better to whip it up in a pinch, Ahearn-style, without a recipe.


From left to right: Roasted Buttercup Squash Cups from The Lost Kitchen; Queen of Smyrna Squash Soup from Full Moon Suppers; Lost Kitchen’s Waldorf Salad; and fixings for pasta with crumbled sausage, sage, and winter squash from Four Season’s of Pasta.

“I think Maine and Tuscany share an austere and frugal approach to cooking.” photos by meaghaN maurice; food by claire z. cramer

–Sara Jenkins

LOST AND FOUND Chef Erin French’s restaurant in Freedom is the stuff of legend since it’s all but impossible to get a reservation. No matter now, thanks to the book. Her motto is to “learn to trust your instincts…and if all else fails, remember that there are few ailments that butter and salt can’t cure.” French’s ability to find magic in the simplest ingredients shines in these recipes. Take Waldorf Salad. You think of the retrocafeteria sugary mess of apples and mayo. Forget that. French starts you off making your own candied, oven-toasted walnuts, which you sprinkle with flaky Maldon sea salt as they

come hot out of the oven. While they cool, you toss cubed apples–pick something crisp and local–with sliced fresh fennel, sliced celery stalks, lemon juice, and zest. Stir in a modest dab of mayo, parsley leaves, and the cooled nuts. Garnish with fennel fronds, celery leaves, perhaps a few torn pink radicchio leaves, et voilà, a sophisticated autumn salad. I also try my hand at “Roasted Buttercup Squash Cups,” which are made decadent with a spoonful of butter in each quartered squash cup during roasting. Her garnish of Maine autumn slaw is created by cutting crisp apples into matchsticks and dressing them in a rice-wine vinegar and shallot vinaigrette that’s laced with thyme leaves and maple syrup. Sounds simple, tastes exotic. Put little heaps of this slaw on a few arugula leaves in each warm squash quarter and arrange on a platter. I found myself imagining these creations as alternative side dishes at a Thanksgiving dinner. THE DYNASTY Camden native Nancy Harmon Jenkins is a food and cookbook writer with few peers. Her cookbooks include The Essential Mediterranean, The Flavors of Tuscany, and The Flavors of Puglia. She splits each year between homes in Camden and Tuscany. Nancy’s daughter, Sara Jenkins, has also lived, written, and cooked in Italy. She is

the chef/owner of the Porsena and Porchetta restaurants in New York City; in Rockport, her baby is Nina June. “Bastions of all that is good: simplicity, freshness, and harmony,” is how Chef Mario Batali describes the Jenkinses. lthough The Four Seasons of Pasta is overwhelmingly Italian in tone, dedicated to Mita Antolini, Sara’s “adopted grandmother” in Italy, you’ll nevertheless find pasta recipes that call for sturdy Maine autumn produce, including brussels sprouts, chard, cauliflower, and winter squash. “I think Maine and Tuscany share an austere and frugal approach to cooking,” Sara says. I opt for “Pasta with Crumbled Sausage, Sage, and Winter Squash.” This is supreme comfort food. Using freshly made Italian sausage from Portland’s Otherside Deli; sage from the garden; and local onions, garlic, and coarsely chopped pieces of peeled squash–any “hard winter squash” will do–I saute as directed until the squash is tender and pieces start to fall apart. Just as the pasta finishes boiling, I add a scoop of pasta cooking water to the sauce before draining the pasta and putting it in a serving bowl, topping it with the sauce, and showering it with a blizzard of grated parmigiana-reggiano. Talk about Sunday night supper–this is what you want when the nights draw in. n November 2017 59


Jamie Hogan

Sponsored by:

BUY TICKETS: 207.774.0465 www.portlandstage.org 25A Forest Ave, Portland ME


EvEryday SommEliEr

4

Fine Wines

adobe stock - raw pixel

take the angst out of Thanksgiving.

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ome for the holidays. That special time of year for gathering round the dinner table with family and friends. But with your typical Downeast feast featuring myriad flavors and tastes, it’s not always easy to successfully select wine pairings. Overwhelmed by your online search? Wineries try to mar-

B y Ralph heRsom

ket wines targeted to unsuitable food to sell more around the holidays. Fortunately for you, I’ve done the hard research in the field. Below is a list of American wines that hit the mark. Sparkling: Founded in 1981, Roederer Estate Brut NV is produced in Mendocino County’s fog-shrouded Anderson

Valley, California, from legendary Champagne producer Louis Roederer (of Cristal fame). Made from a blend of 58-percent Chardonnay and 42-percent Pinot Noir, this elegant sparkling wine has aromas of apples and pear with hints of spice and a crisp acidity. A delicious way to toast the holiday. November 2017 61



EvEryday SommEliEr

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hite: The 2016 Pinot Gris is the flagship white wine from the outstanding King Estate winery in Oregon. I’ve been a big fan since my days as Cellarmaster at Windows on the World in the mid-1990s. I love Pinot Gris for its food-friendliness and versatility. Aromas of fresh cantaloupe and ripe pears with a balanced texture and racy acidity make this white an ideal accompaniment to Thanksgiving turkey. This wine sees no oak, so the full flavors of the Pinot Gris grape shine through. Red: Navarro Vineyards [above] is one of my favorite Pinot Noir producers in California. These folks have been growing grapes and making excellent wines since 1974, and this release is no exception–especially given its 2013 vintage. The 100-percent Pinot Noir is aged in French oak barrels, imbuing the wine with aromas of cranberries, raspberries, and a touch of spice and vanilla. Pinot Noir is the most versatile red grape for pairing with food. Unfortunately, so many inexpensive wines on the market are blended with other grapes to keep costs down. To truly experience a delicious Pinot Noir, you need to spend a little bit of money. This 2013 Pinot Noir retails at $32. Zinfandel: One of the pioneers of California zinfandel (their first vintage dates back to 1964), Ridge Vineyards is one of my all-time favorites. You might be thinking, “Zinfandel? I don’t want any of that sweet, pink stuff on my dining table!” And you’re absolutely correct– neither would I! But this is the real deal: red Zinfandel. The 2015 East Bench Zinfandel from Ridge Vineyards is the perfect wine to sip after the Thanksgiving feast. Richer in style than the Pinot Noir, with aromas of black cherries, raspberries, and spice from 12 months aging in American oak, this is a wonderful way to finish your meal. Happy Thanksgiving! n Ralph Hersom is a sommelier and owner of RRH Cellars Wine Consultancy. He was formerly the Cellarmaster at Windows On The World and Wine Director of Le Cirque 2000 in NYC.

Family-Owned, Old World Butcher Shop & Meat Market

Come find all the great flavors of the holidays in one store! Voted “Best of the Best” Butcher shops in Greater Portland for the Last Two years. Open Daily 8am-6pm • 799-3374 • 101 Ocean Street, South Portland November 2017 63


855-912-8130


The LoNgfeLLow Chorus aNd orChesTra, CharLes KaufmaNN, arTisTiC direCTor, apriL 2 & 3, 2016, JohN ford TheaTre, porTLaNd, maiNe - phoTo by ToNee harberT

L’Esprit de L’Escalier

Donata Cucinotta (left), soprano, as Evangeline, and Kaitlyn Costello (right), mezzo-soprano, as Gabriel, with members of The Longfellow Chorus in the 2016 revival of Edward E. Rice’s musical Evangeline, or The Belle of Acadia.

Want to get closer? Step into Gabriel’s shoes and take your own 21st century quest with Evan geline, a narrative video game released earlier this year.

Evangeline,

The Original Beat Icon Take a journey with Longfellow’s Evangeline, whose story is evergreen.

M

ost are familiar with the ubiquity of Evangeline, A Tale of Acadie, or at least with her creator, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. He was her Pygmalion; she was his Acadian version of My Fair Lady. What everyone is not as familiar with is how Evangeline Bellefontaine, feminist before feminism, was the original on-the-road Beat who beat the Beats at being Beat before they were Beats. Yeah, say that three times very fast. In my literary criticism of the poem Evangeline, I see the eponymous protagonist as a figure searching for her lost home.

B y Rhea Côté RoBBi n s

I ask her, “Who are you,” and she replies, “I’m the ever-searching, never-finding, never-arriving. I am the Acadian Moses not gone home.” Take “E” on the road. She’s the woman protagonist looking for her lost love, Gabriel. She’s Acadia’s heart– a stand-in and metaphor for the deported Acadians–and Gabe is the long-lost, landof-no-return metaphor of a home never to be reclaimed. Evangeline is on the road to self-discovery at a time when women of the world didn’t journey as she does. She is brave and free. Evangeline, ever the one to be on the move, created the mold for the

future Beats on the road, those poets and dreamers searching for the elusive ‘other’. She’s no stay-at-home girl, pining away for the good old days, but a thoroughly modern woman seeking her life and love. Gabriel is found eventually, but like the Moses story, Evangeline never reclaims the promised land of her dreams. Today, Evangeline still speaks to the many refugees who are lost without their home and cannot return. n Rhea Côté Robbins is the author of ‘down the Plains,’ and editor of Heliotrope–French Heritage Women Create. November 2017 65


Dining guiDe Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511.

Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days, 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com. The Corner Room features bright, wideopen space with towering ceilings complemented by handcrafted woodwork. Patrons can expect a warm, comfortable atmosphere, marked by the rich aromas of housemade pastas, pizzas, antipasti and artisanal breads. Come and enjoy the taste of Venice in the heart of Portland, ME! 879-4747, 110 Exchange Street. Visit thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com for more information. DiMillo’s Now through December, relax and enjoy Head Chef Melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. Every day, she offers something new and delicious. Try our Early Dinner Specials, Monday-Friday or our wonderful Port Side Lounge, Portland’s getaway for grown-ups. Happy Hour includes special menu MondayFriday, 4-7 p.m. Open daily at 11 a.m., Commercial St., Old Port. Always FREE PARKING while aboard. 772-2216. J’s Oyster is a premier seafood destination and locals’ favorite with indoor and outdoor waterfront seating on one of Portland’s scenic piers. Established in 1977, J’s offers classic favorites and friendly service. Coastal Living claimed J’s one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” Find us on Facebook. 772-4828

Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves Asian cuisine with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese, or hibachi tables. Private party rooms accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items prepared before your table. Family friendly; open Mon.Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. to 11 p.m., Sat. 1 p.m-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com.

Hurricane Restaurant New England cuisine with an international twist. Local produce and seafood, full bar, awardwinning wine list, in-house dessert chef, lobster & blueberry pie! Sunday Brunch & Make-Your-Own Bloody Mary Bar. Good restaurants come and go; great restaurants get better and better. Lunch & dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available. Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport, Maine. 967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com 6 6 p O R T l A n D M O N T H LY M A G A z I N E


RestauRant Review

A ‘Restaurant

with Rooms’

an exciting new restaurant sparkles in an historic, formerly derelict, Congress Street mansion.

meaghaN maurice

S

By C l air e z . C r ame r

o is this what it might have felt like in the 1880s, having dinner in your stately Queen-Anne Victorian brick mansion designed by Portland’s then-superstar architect, Francis Fassett? We ponder the matter at our table in the dining room of Bolster, Snow & Co. Not exactly. This is nicer, we decide over glasses of Esser Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey ($11) and Sicilian Purato Pinot Grigio ($9) as we munch delicate, crunchy golden Parsnip Chips ($8). And the service is definitely better. The fact this new restaurant is tucked into the former Mellen E. Bolster House on Congress Street–spectacularly reincar-

nated as the Francis Hotel after decades of abandonment–is part of the time-machine charm of dining here. The beauty of the restored building welcomes you the moment you enter the hotel foyer, with its soaring ceiling and steep staircase. Peek into adjacent drawing rooms resplendent with tiled fireplaces, stained-glass panels, parquet floors, and honey-golden acres of varnished oak moldings and trim. The hotel’s interior furnishings offer strikingly contemporary contrasts, with modern sofas, chairs, and chandeliers. We share an elaborate appetizer of Duck Confit ($15). Tender, boneless meat is shaped into a cylinder that’s sliced and arNovember 2017 67


Dining guiDE

Swiss Time 86 Exchange St Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 773-0997 www.myswisstime.com

Authentic Thai Cooking

865-6005

Dine In • Take-Out Open 7 Days A Week Lunch & Dinner • Beer & Wine Monday–Saturday 11am–9pm Sunday 4pm–9pm

Spice Levels

★ 1 Star: Coward ★★ 2 Stars: Careful ★★★ 3 Stars: Adventurous ★★★★ 4 Stars: Native ★★★★★ 5 Stars: Showoff

Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. Tue.Sat. starting at 5 p.m. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 7729232, mariasrestaurant.com. Pedro’s focuses on simple yet fullflavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12 p.m. 10 p.m. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com. Restaurante El Corazon Mexican food from the heart. Authentic family recipes passed down through generations. We serve large and small plates and an “oversized tequila selection.” Try Portland’s own “Marisco”– a Mexican seafood cocktail of shrimp, bay scallops, clams, octopus, and, of course, Maine lobster. Open lunch and dinner, Tues.-Sat. 11:00 a.m.-9:00 p.m., 190 State St. Portland. elcorazonportland.com, 536-1354 Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill Now with two fun and comfortable upscale sports bar locations. Known for great casual pub food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And, with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Located at 11 Cotton Street in Portland’s Old Port (774-6044) and 2 Hat Trick Drive, Falmouth (747-4020), rivalriesmaine.com Sea Salt Lobster Restaurant delivers an authentic Maine dining experience using fresh, locally harvested seafood to create delicious dishes that will leave you wanting more. Visit us on Route 1 in Saco and try our fresh Maine lobster rolls, renowned Angus beefburgers, clams, haddock, or fish tacos. Open from 11 a.m.-10 p.m., 365 days a year. 660 Main St, Saco, seasaltlobsterrestaurant.com, 494-1178.

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite) 6 8 P o R t L a n d M O N T H Ly M A G A Z I N E

773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS


meaghaN maurice

RestauRant Review

ranged on wafer-thin slices of watermelon radish. These are set over silken roasted winter squash and crumbs of ripe blue cheese. An orange-accented sauce of pureed squash and walnut milk is swooshed prettily alongside. Tiny nests of frisée garnish this delicious creation. Chef Nicholas Verdisco comes to Bolster, Snow & Co. (named for Mellen Bolster’s local dry goods empire) from the Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. He knows how to layer up a succession of flavors without blurring them.

You’ll spot this from the first whisper of togarashi (Japanese chili powder perfumed with ginger, herbs, and spices) on your parsnip chips.

W

e’re even more wowed by the day’s catch—sea bass on our visit—served as a whole, panseared filet in a sauce containing earthy chanterelles, pickled raisins, and subtle curry oil ($30). The fish is tender and sweet, and the skin crackles. Accompanying florets of cauliflower will convert even the

staunchest non-believer. Wide ribbons of house-made pappardelle sing in combination with luxurious Creamy Corn Boar ($27), an unctuous, imaginative sauce rich with creamed fresh corn and ground boar meat. It’s accented brightly with a scattering of black garlic and snipped chives. Apple Tart ($11) for dessert is a sassy coda to the rich meal, with tart, thin, glazed slices of fruit set on a divinely buttery, crumbly almond crust. A sweet smear of apple butter and tiny cubes of pickled apple offer glorious contrasts. Bolster, Snow & Co. captures the special-occasion “getaway” magic of a hotel restaurant, with beautifully set tableware, delicate stemware, and professional service. A delicious new chapter has opened in the history of this gracious landmark. n Bolster, Snow & Co., 747 Congress St., Portland. Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 5 – 9 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. till 10:30; Sun. till 8:30. 772-7496.

November 2017 69


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Bridgham & Cook, Ltd.

Importing Britain’s Best for Over 30 Years 123 Main Street • Historic Freeport, Maine 04032 • (207) 865-1040 • www.britishgoods.com


H o l i d ay

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Holiday Gifts & Events Guide it’s never too early to start planning for the most wonderful time of the year! We’ve got you covered with sparkling seasonal events and gift inspiration from across maine.

Holiday Calendar: • Country Christmas in Bethel, nov. 24 to dec. 24

• Magic of Christmas, Portland

Symphony Orchestra, Dec. 8-17 • Christmas by the Sea, Ogunquit, Dec. 8-10 • Hanukkah, Dec. 12-20 • Polar Bear Dip & Dash, Back Cove and East End Beach, Portland, Dec. 31. • Bodhi Day, Jan. 24, 2018 • Winter Solstice, Dec. 21 • Christmas, Dec. 25

• Kwanzaa, Dec. 26-Jan. 1, 2018 • New Year’s Day, Jan. 1, 2018 • Epiphany, Jan. 6, 2018

from top: tHE maGic of cHristmas; corEy tEmplEton; saraH bEard bucklEy

• Mahayana New Year, Jan. 12, 2018 • Chinese New Year, Feb. 16, 2018 • Mardi Gras, Feb. 13, 2018 • Makar Sankranti, Jan. 14, 2018 • Persian New Year, Mar. 21, 2018

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Corny Christmas

Top Tees

So Fresh and So Clean

for a stocking stuffer that will please everyone, look no further than any of the 30+ flavors of popcorn from Coastal Maine popcorn Company. Having trouble choosing just one? indulge in a sample pack, which includes five flavors for $14.99. regularsized bags are $5.99.

show your state some love with an eyecatching, organic t-shirt from liberty Graphics Company Store, $23-30.

Keep clean up at camp this year with Hunting camp soap by portland General Store. this charcoal-activated soap is ideal for the cabin, but will fit right in at home too. pick up a bar at portland dry Goods Company for $14.

Cute and Colorful Birds of a Feather spread a little holiday cheer with our outdoor friends this season with a lobster Buoy Birdhouse. Each birdhouse is handmade from maine cedar and repurposed lobster rope. find yours at lisa-Marie’s Made in Maine or place a custom order online, $39-59.

Stay Cozy South Street linen delivers the perfect scarves for layering in cooler weather. the maine-made linen scarves trap warmth without being itchy. savannah stripe scarf, small, $139, large, $159.

Brighten up a loved one’s day with any of these cheery, colorful accessories by Erin Flett. pick the perfect pouch out of the wide selection of designs and sizes, all available at Blanche + Mimi. pencil case, $30; wristlet, $34; and carry-all, $36.

! H o li d a y E v e n ts Monument Square tree lighting, nov. 24

the nutcracker, maine

state Ballet theater, falmouth, nov. 24 - dec. 30

Horse & Wagon rides, nov. 24 - dec. 17

Festival of trees,

saco, nov. 24 - dec. 30

Holiday Window display Contest, nov. 25 - dec. 16

pairings 101 Holiday treats at Cellardoor Winery, nov. 29 Elfternoon lunchtime Shopping, nov.

29, dec. 6, dec. 13

7 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t H ly m a G a z i n E

White Christmas, ogunquit playhouse, ogunquit, nov. 29 dec. 17 Cookie Bake and Swap at leroux Kitch-

en, nov. 30

Freeport Sparkle Weekend, freeport,

dec. 1-3

a Christmas Story,

north pole Express

Shaker Christmas Fair, new Gloucester,

Victorian Christmas,

the portland players, dec. 1-17

dec. 2

Merry Madness Wine and Shopping Event, dec. 7

at Boothbay railway village, dec. 9, 10, 16, 17 Wiscasset, dec. 16

the levees: a Chanukah Concert, maine

Jewish museum, dec. 17

staff and courtEsy pHotos

Festival of lights,

Boothbay, nov. 17 dec. 31


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Box of Love for your homesick friend: a birch box filled with local treats. find it at Fabula Nebulae, $125.95.

One of a Kind if you’re looking for a beautiful salt or pepper grinder that lasts, go for the ash morrison mill from Dailey Woodworking, $100.

Enjoy weightless relaxation in one of our four float tanks. You’ll feel perfectly supported while you float effortlessly in a warm, saline solution containing over 1,000 lbs. of Epsom salt.

floatharder.com

Gift Certificates available in store & online!

500 Washington Ave. Portland

207.400.5187 November 2017 73


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GIVE THE GIFT OF TOTAL BODY CARE The Secret Ingredient

hoping to give new life to your cooking? the Wild Maine Blueberry Balsamic from Vervacious will impress seasoned and rookie chefs alike. unconvinced? stop by their company store on Commercial street where they host tastings all day long. $15 per bottle.

Massage. Facials. Stretch.

SOUTH PORTLAND

343 Gorham Road Gorham Road in Cornerbrook Plaza (207) 772-7770

Do Try This at Home

M–F 8a–10p | S 8a–8p | Su 9a–7p

DISCLAIMER: Gift cards are not redeemable or refundable for cash or credit except where required by law. Rates and services may vary by franchised location and session. For a specific list of services, check with specific franchised location or see MassageEnvy.com. Additional taxes and fees may apply. Each location is independently owned and operated. ©2017 Massage Envy Franchising, LLC.

your oyster lover can skip the lines at eventide and indulge safely with this gadget that takes the scare out of shucking. find the aW SHUCKS! oyster Shucker online at awshucksoysteropener.com. $225.

Exceptional chocolates made right here in our shop. Since 1956

248 Main Street Ogunquit, ME 03907 1.800.331.5856 ~207.646.8078

mail order www.harborcandy.com ~ 7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e


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Heirloom Consignment Come see one of the largest furniture consignment stores in Southern Maine! 30 years experience in home furnishings Hours Tues-Sat 10-6 Sun 10-4 161 Ocean Street South Portland, Me 04106 207-747-5112

Stir it Up

for the aspiring bartender, Vena’s Fizz House infusion Jars. serve up ready-prepared cocktails–all you do is add booze! try maine margarita or Campfire for $12.50.

I T ’ S C H I L LY O U T T H E R E ,

Cocktail Hour

bring out your inner sea captain with these nautical cuff-links from local company CHART Metalworks. stay on trend during cocktail hour with one of their unique bottle-openers. both pieces are $65.

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dress up your Christmas tree with pretty pewter ornaments from danforth pewter. this duo would bring holiday cheer to even the most Charlie Brownesque tree. snowflake, $18.50 and santa’s key, $25.


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Choose Your Harbor We offer quality hand-crafted replacement lampshades made from the NOA A nautical chart of your choice, mounted on a durable Styrene backing, constructed to your specific size, and finished with a nautical rope-like trim. sold locally at Shift Portland and Suger order online: sarahcrawfordhandcrafted.com or by appt. 401.339.0023

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P FOR THE HOLIDAYS SHO

Basket Case

if you’re struggling to settle on just one delectable item, spring for a gift basket from Maine’s pantry. Breakfast lovers will appreciate the Boothbay Breakfast Basket, $42.95,

Arm Candy

Packing feels like less of a chore when you have luggage like this. artemis design Co. create carpet bags from repurposed Kilim rugs sourced from istanbul. duffel bag, $545 and cross-body bag, $148 at peyote Moon.

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Whether your hometown’s featured on it or not, you’ll want to snag one of these unique town totes, $40, from Kurier. This functional, on-trend bag is handcrafted with reinforced leather handles. And if typography isn’t your style, go for the Buffalo Plaid tote, $98.


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Fabulous Socks for Men, Women,

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Bowtie’s “We the People” bow tie is the ultimate gift for a history buff or diehard Hamilton fan. Handcrafted in Maine. $48.

Looking Fly

for a twist on a classic, opt for this distinct boutonniere, handmade by a fourth-generation fishing guide at Maine Fly Boutonniere. $49.99 each.

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Bringing you all things tea Purveyor of fine teas, treats, tea wares, accoutrements, books, linens–offered in an atmosphere of calm and eclectic beauty. WEDS–FRI 10 am-5 pm SAT 10 am-3 pm Other times by appointment.

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stationery by Crane’s, and William Arthur.

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Pam’s Wreaths

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Pam’s Wreaths Is proud to offer our new Product the Moose Head Wreath for the 2015 Holiday season. We also offer a variety of classic Holiday wreaths and swags. Look us up on the web or call for more Information.

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“ We’ve never been in a shop like this. The shop is like a museum…the works of Maine’s artists have to be amongst the best in the world! The carvings look like they are breathing, the pictures draw you in, the skills displayed stagger the mind. A must-see shop on your tour of Camden’s downtown.”

“ Maine’s best artists on display.”

Marine & Nature Fine & Fun F Art

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We can’t tell t you how often we hear this from our visitors v and customers. Ducktrap Bay Trading Tradi Company is the marine and wildlife ar art gallery on the center crosswalk in downto downtown Camden. Represent Representing over 200 artists—original paintings, carvings, etchings, sculpture, scrimshaw…and so much more! scrimshaw Come to C Camden and visit us. You won’t be disappointed. disappoin

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for the

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Energy A family-owned, 93-room luxury inn. This AAA Four Diamond hotel features two great restaurants, 23 fireplaces, an indoor heated pool and is fully handicapped accessible. Select pet-friendly rooms available. Walk to the best shopping on the Maine coast and the Amtrak Downeaster train station. Ask about our Yankee Getaway Package. Book direct for complimentary breakfast and afternoon tea. .BJO 4USFFU t 'SFFQPSU .&

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"Maine's Originall Hot Sauce"

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Tree Dressing Add some local history to your tree with the Merrill Auditorium ornament from Springers Jewelers, $30

Maine on My Mind

show the world your love for all things maine with the “maine lighthouse tee� from pinecone & Chickadee, $28.

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Coffee addicts can indulge their obsession in style with this marble-effect mug and pitcher from Campfire Studios, the set costs $66 at Gus & Ruby.

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curated gallery shoppe on Portland’s stylish East End . confident design . quality living

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We’re having our annual Gift Card Holiday Sale from November 24th to December 23rd!

For every $100 in gift cards you buy you will receive a $20 gift card. Available at the restaurant or go to HurricaneRestaurant.com to order.

Nurturing the Seacoast Palate for over 25 Years. Dock Square, Kennebunkport 207-967-9111 | www.HurricaneRestaurant.com Find us at

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FOR ALL YOU’VE EARNED AND CHERISH

P er s o n a li t i es

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Mills (continued from page 41)

There was a time when Elizabeth Arden’s Maine Chance Spa brought the likes of Judy Garland and Ava Gardner to the Belgrade Lakes region. Well-heeled Manhattanites regularly attended to indulge in expensive spa treatments and dabble in hula-hooping classes. During the Depression, the spa employed hundreds, all here to pamper the rich and famous.

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courtesy photos

T

oday, through the efforts of the Travis Mills Foundation, the former spa has undergone a $3 million renaissance to become The Maine Chance Lodge and Retreat. Here, combatwounded veterans and their families come to relax and enjoy boating, paddle boarding, equine therapy, fishing, and more. No one is excluded. “We make sure that if there are veterans with a disability, they can do everything right alongside their family.” Mills has come a long way from the battlefield. He and Kelsey recently welcomed a son, Dax, whose name is a combination of Daniel and Alexander, the two medics who saved Mills’s life after the bomb exploded. Chloe, now six, is a big sister and the apple of her father’s eye. During Maine Chance Lodge’s inaugural summer of 2017, the retreat hosted “56 military families.” For Mills and his family, it’s the start of something new.


Charlton Herbert (continued from page 43)

bert says. Even for this lone ranger, the vast emptiness of the Mongolian steppes was astounding in its scale and beauty. She’s almost breathless recalling the nine days spent mostly in the saddle with only a backpack of possessions. Feelings of pain and uncertainty rode side-by-side with wonder and excitement. “I have memories of mounting an enormous ridge to see a vast valley spread out below. There wasn’t another person in sight.” The true weight of this isolation hit heavily at other times. “Toward the end of the journey, I was galloping across the steppes with my friend, Taylor Dolak. Suddenly I heard a death scream and looked back to see Taylor and her horse on the ground. The horse was bellowing. Then it went silent. Its legs were sticking straight out, rigamortis-style. We thought it had died. After a while, it got up again–like some kind of Lazarus horse!” Finally, after nine days and 633 miles, she made it across the finish line. Herbert will spend the next year training dressage horses in Utah and getting her equine massage therapy license. “I’m an artist, and I’m still drawing pieces inspired by what I saw in Mongolia. I hope to save up all my money and return to Maine in a year and buy myself a secluded cabin near the sea.” And after that? “Oh, a horse of my own, for sure!”

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pe rs onal iti e s Hodgman (continued from page 45)

and more comfortable with that,” he says. The theme of aging and of grappling with “the dumb, awful truth” of mortality forms the dark underbelly of the book’s humor. As “a pretentious, affected, loathsome” youth, Hodgman never set out to become a multi-hyphenated actor-comedian-podcaster. “I knew early on I didn’t want to work for a living in the traditional sense. I wanted to do as many things as I could while also being able to nap.” Writing, however, has always been “as essential as breathing but not as much fun as eating.” His nascent career in entertainment was propelled into the spotlight when he landed a role as “PC Man” in the Apple Mac adverts of the early 2000s. “It was life-changing in terms of my career and my family’s finances. Some of my happiest memories are of hanging about with Justin Long and director Phil Morrison, being creative together. We’re friends to this day.”

O

ne chapter of Vacationland, entitled “Maine Humor,” takes place partly in Perry’s Nut House of Bel-

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fast. Hodgman stands before the merchandise, comprising “mostly of men with flinty, Downeast accents giving bad directions to people from away.” At the time, “even when work was going well, I feared it would all slip away,” he says. “That I’d end up a middleaged man joking about Maine.” With near spasms of irony he ends the chapter, “Please put this book down for a moment to appreciate my incredible mastery of literary irony. I’ll just be over here curling into a ball, trying to disappear forever.”

couldn’t work. Often I couldn’t get out of bed. But the tall ship community is like a big family. I survived on a combination of my savings and donations from other sailors. With encouragement from the community, I went back to a life at sea. I worked on three tall ships after Bounty, which helped me get my confidence back and manage PTSD triggers.” One of her greatest points of pride is that all her surviving shipmates from Bounty are back at work on boats.

“I turned a corner in Maine and got ambushed by a nest of cairns!” John Hodgman shares images from Maine on Facebook.

hese days, she’s focusing on her career, setting a course more suited to her degree from Maine Maritime Academy’s Small Vessel Operations Program. “I wanted to use my license and keep upgrading,” she says. “The boat world is like the Boy Scouts. I had a lot of badges to collect.” Hewitt currently works on an oil rig– “a comparative luxury to my time on tall ships.” She’s offshore for long periods at a time.“I don’t really have a home base. I wish I could make it back to Maine more,

Hewitt (continued from page 46)

T


but I’m still close to my MMA classmates.” She’s comfortable in her current role, but she finds she faces judgment from some who learn she was a shipmate on Bounty’s last sail. “I’ve had a lot of comments from other mariners,” she says. “They’ll say, ‘What were you thinking?’ What was Captain Walbridge thinking?’ I get defensive. I’m not proud to have been on the boat for that incident. It’s the most embarrassing thing of my career, and I don’t want to be labeled as reckless or foolish.” The most difficult memories are still hard to shake. They visit her at the least convenient times. “When I have bad days, I know that being honest with myself and the people around me is the best course. I remind myself, ‘Keep breathing.’” “When I’m in that dark hole, I think, ‘I survived that, and that was the worst,’” she says. “In the washing machine of these 30-foot waves and 90-mile-an-hour winds, I knew if I kept breathing, I could live. In my hard moments, I know that if I keep breathing through any challenge, I’ll survive.”

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o t R A E Y R U O Y s i s i h T

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BRING A TEAM! WEAR A COSTUME!

Davis (continued from page 49)

POLAR BEAR DIP & DASH! SUNDAY, December 31, 2017 East End Beach, Portland

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orn in Saint John, New Brunswick, Davis moved to Maine with his family when he was six months old, so he’s a local with an asterisk. “There’s a joke that a Maine native is someone who has three generations buried here and no living relatives in Massachusetts. All of my ancestors are buried in Paris Hill.” He first took to the air regularly for work as head of Maine’s Mortgage Bankers Association of America. “I flew back and forth for the bank for years, but what do you see above the clouds? To be able to go through El Paso and look out onto the platform at Hopi Indians selling necklaces is memorable. Or to see the Great Hall of the St. Louis Union Station, with its chandeliers, stained glass, and artwork. It’s a classic. The 1930s Spanish style train station in Los Angeles is so beautiful it’s often used for commercials. Each city has something unique,” says Davis, his adventurous spirit glowing as he unrolls a map of the Amtrak System, tracing the many cross-country routes. “Before Amtrak, many Maine commuters traveled on Buddliners. They were self-propelled railway cars used as a last-ditch effort to try and preserve the train service in the 1950s. The Boston and Maine railroad had one

courtesy photo

Join hundreds of brave Mainers for the Natural Resources Council of Maine’s 10th annual

first fling was rekindled when he started riding the Night Owl, an Amtrak train that ran between D.C. and Boston from 1972 to 1995. The friendly dimensions of a train came back to him in a rush: “There’d always be a card game somewhere in the lounge car. The regulars who knew one another would pull out a deck of cards and play at a table in the café car.” Next stop? A life changer, for all of us. Against insurmountable odds, Davis soon became the driving force in Maine’s Amtrak expansion


of the largest collections. Many students said they owed their Masters degrees to the Budd cars.” In 1989, when non-profit citizens’ organization TrainRiders/Northeast, led by Davis, began pushing for the return of a passenger rail service from Boston to Maine, they were met with their fair share of naysayers. “A lot of people said, ‘It’s too far. No one is going to commute.’ Even my friends thought I’d lost it. Today, one-third of our riders travel on passes.” On the morning of December 15, 2001, the first Downeaster passenger train pulled out of Boston bound for Portland. Before long, the Downeaster revolutionized our urban connections. It’s changed us culturally, clearing the path for those who otherWetravel are here. committed wise wouldn’t On one rideto durproviding the highest ing the first year, Davis recalls spotting a young couple “dressed the nines.” The quality of tocasino enteryoung man was in a wheelchair. “He saidyour to tainment for you and me, ‘This is the first time I’ve traveled since guests - truly perfect for the accident, all because of this wonderful occasion! train,’ andany then fun-filled he started to cry.” The couple was headed to Boston to see the symphony that evening. It was the first time I Contact our lively group realized this train is important to people we today plan normally don’t payand attention to.”to make your next someThe Downeaster nowevent rolls into Portland fromthing Bostonreally five times a day and, special! since 2012, provides service to Brunswick. Ask Davis, who now lives in Topsham, how many times he’s commuted to Bos(207) 650-9977 ton since the rail expansion and you’ll get a hearty laugh.tomob_2001@yahoo.com “Too many to count!” It’s clear he never tires of it. Davis continues www.casino-to-you.com as Chairman of TrainRiders/Northeast and works closely with the volunteers who ride the train helping passengers navigate their travels. It’s been over 30 years since the flight that inspired a man to keep his feet on the ground and bring the train back to Maine. n

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House of tHe MontH

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Resplendent Refugee another delicious crumb is falling from the table of the Gilded Age in bar harbor.

G

eorge Sullivan Bowdoin’s (1833-1913) ancestor James Bowdoin III founded Bowdoin College. Wouldn’t the founder have been proud to see “La Rochelle,” this 41-room chateau, take shape on the Bar Harbor shore in 1902? Everything about this venture was top-drawer, including the architects–the Boston firm of Andrews, Jacques & Rantoul dashed off La Rochelle’s design while Andrews was dreaming up blueprints for the east and west

By Colin W. SArGen t

wings of the Massachusetts State House. During construction, the Bar Harbor Record predicted the cost for what’s been called Bar Harbor’s first brick mansion might surpass “$100,000.” The mystery of this castle’s name sweeps us across the Atlantic back 400 years. James Bowdoin III’s ancestors were Huguenots (French Protestants) from La Rochelle, a seaport in Nouvelle-Aquitaine. They fled to the U.S. for relief from religious persecution. (The word refugee entered the English

language with the travels of the Huguenots in the 17th century.) The Baudouins, as in Pierre Baudouin, James Bowdoin I’s father, became the Bowdoins. Voilà! Things went very well for the Bowdoins here. Not only did the Bowdoin family heirs hold court in this house, so did Alexander Hamilton’s heirs. George S. Bowdoin, a treasurer at J.P. Morgan, was also the son of Alexander Hamilton’s granddaughter Fanny (1813-1887). November 2017 101


House of tHe montH Just add Water & stir fter George Bowdoin died at his home on 39 Park Avenue in New York at age 81, some Campbell Soup money was poured into the next generation. Campbell Soup heir Tristram C. Colket, Jr. and his wife, Ruth, finally donated the house in 1972 to the Maine Seacoast Mission, a non-profit. Colket Jr.’s activities are still chronicled by financial fanzines including Bloomberg, though the Mission is the seller. Apparently, it’s time for a sea change.

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he Maine Seacoast Mission provides spiritual, health, and youth developmental programs in coastal and island communities from mid-coast to Downeast Maine. Rooted in a history of non-denominational service, the Mission offers hope, encouragement, and help to strengthen individuals, families,

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I wasn’t aware of the Hamilton/ Maine connection! Thanks for sharing…Free enterprise is a founding principle of this nation. America has a hard time putting altruism before capitalism. But it is possible. Today, everywhere you look, there are opportunities to become the most evolved version of yourself. There are ways to help and get involved everywhere you look. We all have to resist the pull toward the gutter.

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While you were starring in Hamilton, did you ever think that Maine shares in the Hamilton legacy? Not only was George the son of Alexander Hamilton’s granddaughter Fanny (18131887), he was also a partner at J.P. Morgan. What are your thoughts on fortune creating more fortune?


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and communities. Their main corporate office is located at 127 West Street,” Bar Harbor. As in right here. With views of forever.

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here will the Mission go? “The Mission is exploring options all across Mt. Desert Island,” says president Scott Planting. “I’ll miss hosting the wide range of groups and organizations that used the ‘public’ first-floor rooms for events and meetings. People were happy to come here.”

Planting’s favorite spot on the property is “the back porch overlooking Frenchman Bay. I loved hosting people on the porch.” Maybe you’ll like it too. the opportunity At press time, it’s listed for $6.295M on 500

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feet of water frontage (three private oceanfront acres) of downtown Bar Harbor’s Historic District, where Eden and West Street converge. The emerald lawn slopes to the sea, offering stunning views of Bar Island. Profile of a dream buyer? A Bowdoin alum, natch. Taxes are $58,844. n

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The Humiliation of the Wood

oute 161 is quiet for the most part this far west of town, miles beyond that twisted stretch of road the locals call Daigle Rapids, where the teenagers like to give her some and see if they can get air off any of the hills. The little cape sits close to the road. Its woodshed is only used to house the lawnmower and a broken-down rototiller ever since his parents switched over to the oil furnace. An old clubhouse, long since outgrown, is scabbed onto the back that faces the railroad tracks and the St. John River below. The boy stands in the driveway, his back to the river. The blue glass casserole dish hangs by a handle from the end of his arm. He crosses without looking both ways. It’s quiet. The sound of a vehicle coming from either direction would hum on the horizon like someone flirting with the idea of turning the channel knob on the skyline, long before the threat of their presence would need to be considered. The mounded rock that guards the entrance to the great north woods is covered in moss. He scrapes out the remainder of the dish on the bald spot of this ancient gatekeeper. Some of the shepherd’s pie falls from the upper rim onto his hand. He’s pulling his wrist back and flicking potatoes and ground meat in the direction of the trees when his lifted eyes are met by another pair, hung in the air beneath the hem of a white pine’s bell. The small red face follows the trajecto-

Fiction

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ry of the spray of leftovers from his hand to the ground, as though deciphering the motivation of Max Ernst’s brushstrokes. There is no initial pause, no moment of stillness… not at first sight. There’s no tipping point of climax in which this encounter could happen or not. Their eyes meet, and the creature trots towards him, as though it had been waiting all along. The fox, picking his way over the short undergrowth, pushes down the wisps of dry timothy with his chest on his way to the boy’s feet. He has heard them at night, their hoarse voices screaming like the mourning of foreigners in the ditches between the parsonage and the church. One night, he saw a gray vixen digging in the freshly turned soil of the garden plot. His sister insisted it must have been a coyote, but the old-timer neighbor who’d lived his whole life in the county

later affirmed that a coyote wouldn’t move about with foxes. The reynard’s nose twitches as though acknowledging the food scraps, but his eyes remain upturned, aiming his face at the boy’s. How long did they stare? Seconds. Long seconds. Joshua-fought-theAmmonites-in-Gibeon kind of seconds. Long enough to burn into his formation as a man. Long enough to convince him, later in life, that Ellul was right about the maladies of technique requiring the extraction of humans from their God-given habitat– nature. He could touch the fox, but it would cost him the reality of having not touched it. The storm door creaks and a blue puddle of music leaks from the house out into the driveway and crosses the street. Joni Mitchell sings, “A Case of You.” Something behind his eyes breaks the hold. “Mom wants her dish!” The door creaks and slams. The music is gone, as is the fox with a mouthful of supper. Years later, long after the LaVerdiere’s had been bought out by Rite Aid and Fort Kent began to host a leg of the Iditarod, he’d go home and ask some of the neighbors about the skulk. “Ain’t seen ’em in years,” they’d say. Now his parents kept a plastic barrel on a spigot that rolled compost about with some lime and ashes. He’d scrape the leftovers into the trap door, latch it, and crank the handle. The railroad tracks were pulled up and the river lay docile, like an overweight cat with all its teeth pulled. n

November 2017 111


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