T H E D O N ’ T s & D O N ’ T s O F W I N E PA I R I N G • B ig N o - N o N ow a Y e s -ye s
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October 2016 Vol. 31 NO. 7 $5.95
w w w. p o rt l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m Maine’s city magazine
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Directors
The The only only things things more more effective effective against against breast breast cancer cancer than than our our expert expert care care teams... teams... Susan Berlin, D.O. (center) with Susan Berlin, D.O. (center) with Danielle F. Bowen OCN, MSN, ANP-C Danielle F. Bowen OCN, MSN, ANP-C (left) and Melanie Cogan, NP (right) (left) and Melanie Cogan, NP (right)
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7 7 Tips Tips to to Lower Lower Your Your Risk Risk of of Getting Getting Breast Breast Cancer Cancer 1. 1. Keep Keep Your Your Weight Weight in in Check Check 2. Be Physically Active 2. Be Physically Active 3. 3. Avoid Avoid Post-Menopausal Post-Menopausal Hormones Hormones 4. Breastfeed 4. Breastfeed 5. 5. Limit Limit Your Your Intake Intake of of Alcohol Alcohol 6. 6. Know Know Your Your Family's Family's History History of of Cancer Cancer 7. Don't Smoke 7. Don't Smoke
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Brunswick Brunswick 81 Medical Center Drive 81 Medical Center Drive Suite 1300 Suite 1300 Brunswick, ME 04011 Brunswick, ME 04011 (207) 729-1148 (207) 729-1148
Kennebunk Kennebunk 2 Independence Drive 2 Independence Drive Kennebunk, ME 04043 Kennebunk, ME 04043 (207) 985-0008 (207) 985-0008
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Know who this is? It’s Melissa Bouchard, our Head Chef. Melissa has a passion for developing delicious new dishes, and our customers simply love them!
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THE HOLIDAYS A R E A L M O ST H E R E . YOU S H O U L D B E TO O.
INNOVATIVE SPACES. INSPIRED EXPERIENCES. INTUITIVE SERVICES. Holiday parties, business meetings and all of life’s special moments deserve a special venue. With more than 25,000 square feet of flexible space and an extraordinary selection of food and beverage options, Cliff House is as special as it gets. To get your next holiday event started, e-mail holidays@cliffhousemaine.com or call 207.361.6200.
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Having impressive resources and using them effectively are two different things. Providing effective legal counsel isn’t a “one size fits all” endeavor. It’s one size fits you. At Verrill Dana, you’ll work with a custom-built, right-sized team with skill sets matched and assembled specifically to meet your needs. Because the right tool for the job is always the most effective tool for the job.
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C i t y
M a g a z i n e TM
33 Perspectives 10 From the Editor 12 Letters
from left corey templeton; gretchen powers; courtesy drifter’s wife
33 Vital Statistics
89 L’Esprit de l’Escalier “Crossing the Divide” By Rhea Côté Robbins
104 Flash
51 Shelter&Design
Personalities
Cliff dwelling on the Western Prom befitting a postcard king. By Colin W. Sargent
New residents share the journeys that brought them to Portland. By Sarah Moore Featuring: “Where New Yorkers Go To Be Happy,” in the words of graphic designer Kate Howe.
93 House of the Month
Portland’s magic numbers show a city in evolution. From Staff & Wire Reports
Food&Drink
95 New England Homes & Living
39 When?
Harvest bounties bring fresh delights from farm to fork. By Claire Z. Cramer
Maine Life
What cultural tipping points turned Portland around to give us international cachet? By Jamie Holt
45 Dark Horses, Shooting Stars
There’s magic outside the strictures of a list. Interview with Evan Livada by Colin W. Sargent
74 Brew Masters of the Universe
77 Hungry Eye
87 Everyday Sommelier “Tell Me You Didn’t” Odd couplings that should never happen. By Ralph Hersom
90 Dining Guide 91 Restaurant Review
Red Sea–a stunning voyage to Ethiopia via Washington Avenue. By Diane Hudson
77
15 Maine Classics 17 Experience 27 Chowder 29 Portland After Dark:
“Mixing Business with Pleasure” Another taboo bites the dust. And we show you where. By Karen Hofreiter
83 The Gift List
The locally crafted must-haves you’ll soon be coveting. From Staff & Wire Reports
51 What Brings Us Here?
Art&Style
65 Maine On Screen
Maris Curran, writer/director of Five Nights in Maine, takes us behind-the-lens. CUT TO: Jared Martin’s and Robert Mrazek’s windswept tale of Monhegan Island, The Congressman. By Colin W. Sargent
101 Fiction
“St. Anthony’s” By Greg Brown
Punk beer rules. By Olivia Gunn
Cover: Musical trio Weakened Friends have a thirst for Bissell Brothers. See page 74 for the full story. Photo by Peter Jensen Bissell. october 2016 9
October
M a i n e ’ s
Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher
Print Makes
the Occasion Special
Partners
Monhegan Morning 12 x 12,Paul acrylic on canvas, Black Jeffrey Sabol 11 x 14 oil
Featuringoriginal original works ne art, Featuring worksofoffifine art, photography and and limited-edition photography limited-edition printsby byregional regional and prints andlocal localartists. artists. 372 Fore Street 372 Fore Street Portland, Maine 04101 Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-8084 (207) 874-8084 www.forestreetgallery.com
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HOW PORTLAND DOES A BOOKSTORE
THE PLACE FOR NEW & USED BOOKS ON THE PENINSULA Plus Cards, Journals, Gifts & Portland’s Largest Selection of Magazines
Monument Square, Portland 207-772-4045 www.longfellowbooks.com 1 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
L
ast spring, in the middle of one of those dreary late snowstorms, a stunning vellum envelope appeared in our mailbox just when we needed it. To our delight, it was a ‘Save the Date’ request, delivered with as much ceremony as used to be reserved for an invitation to a State event. Several weeks later, we were delighted again with an even lovelier and larger envelope that included the formal invitation in several pages. With its gorgeous typesetting, kerned to perfection in a style (Opti York) exquisitely chosen to pair with its message, the invitation seemed created to be delivered by an angel. I was transported to a time when watermarks were embedded into top-quality papers as signatures for uncompromising craftsmanship. Months later, when we arrived at the wedding, I was further delighted by the programs at the ceremony and touched by the writing inside them. The whole sense was graceful and unhurried, well bespoken for the occasion, each piece finished with a matching pink ribbon. These missives of devotion were created by talented souls with great thought and care. It struck me–a gigantean shift has happened. It reaffirmed for me that the art of print is not in decline, it is ascending. When I arrived at the wedding reception, a table in white linens greeted us inside the foyer with luscious name tags, print directions to our table, and lovely Arabic numerals on print placards gently guiding us to our chairs. Now this was presentation as art. For this single event, it seemed that at least two dozen separate pieces of correspondence had been fashioned. I have savored them all. Suddenly internet correspondence–so infamous for its lack of endearments (even the greeting ‘Hi’ is getting scarce), its disturbing lack of privacy, its impossible-to-confirm claims, its suspect motivations, its buzzing pop-ups, its ‘exclusive’ gates with passwords, and finally its use of monetizing for its raison d’être (I could go on)–has become lackluster and humdrum, ready for the delete button. An e-mail or text message? So what? But when a special something arrives in the mail… Highly crafted print products–a quiet shelter from the noise of the internet–are not just announcing but actually making the special occasion. Even more so in Portland, which has always been a revolutionary city for the print business. This came home to me recently when I got a call from long-time friend John Hatcher. “The Adam Leighton house has come up for sale on the Western Prom.” Visions of color postcards danced before my eyes. Adam Leighton pioneered and developed the world’s color postcard industry in the late 19th century. (See our House of the Month story in this issue, p.93) Adam Leighton, Mayor of Portland, 1908-1909, was the father of this breakout new international postal art form that would define tender (Wish you were here is synonymous with picture postcards) visual correspondence. His son, Hugh C. Leighton, would build on this so that today, when you see a vintage tinted halftone postcard or genius chromolithograph, you have the Leightons to thank. As another tangible form of correspondence, we at Portland Monthly would like to thank you for picking up this magazine and spending your time with us. Love of reading and writing is at the heart of our business plan. Like an interdimensional postcard, we strive to be a lift, a shaft of sunlight, coming your way in the mail. To have and to hold.
MONTHLY Maine’s City Magazine 165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-4339 Fax: (207) 775-2334 www.portlandmagazine.com
Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com
THE PARTY SHOULD BE THE ONLY SURPRISE THAT COMES AT RETIREMENT.
Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Ryan Hammond Advertising Executive ryan@portlandmonthly.com Elizabeth Murphy Advertising Executive elizabeth@portlandmonthly.com
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editorial Sarah Moore Assistant Editor & Publisher sarahm@portlandmonthly.com Olivia Gunn Communications Director Diane Hudson Flash · Reviews Jason Hjort Webmaster Claire Z. Cramer Hungry Eye Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ accounting Eric S. Taylor Controller eric@portlandmonthly.com
subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $39* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com
Readers & Advertisers
The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All corre spondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-4339. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Eric Taylor. Newsstand Cover Date: October 2016, published in September 2016, Vol. 31, No. 7, copyright 2016. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is published 10 times annually by Sargent Publishing, Inc., 165 State Street, Portland, Maine, 04101, with newsstand cover dates of Winterguide, February/March, April, May, Summerguide, July/August, September, October, November, and December. We are proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 59 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design.
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letters
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Portland Monthly ® Magazin e
3D Dreamers
art annual SePteMb er 2016 Maine VoluMe 31, no. 6
It’s not just “The Way Life Should Be.”
It’s the way it is. EVERY DAY AT WEX, we’re making complex payment solutions simple for millions of people worldwide, allowing them to focus on what really matters – their business. WEX is a global company, based in South Portland, Maine. To learn more about our services or career opportunities, visit wexinc.com.
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Maine’s City Magazine
31 No. 6 $5.95 September 2016 Vol.
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agazine.com
Maine Art Annual
Lost in reading I’m just back from a trip: James Doty’s Into the Magic Room, before that Tom Gjelten’s Bacardi and the Long Fight for Cuba, and now Portland Magazine’s July/August issue. Escapist literature at its best, all of it playing on my emotions–from a neurosurgeon’s discovery of compassion, to the history of Cuba through the Bacardi family, to Colin Sargent’s delightful description of the three primary owners of 71 Foreside Road, Falmouth [“Rockefeller Centered”]. Keep going with this magazine’s homage to good writing! Anne Zill, Portland Less Concerned “with the actual art” [Regarding “Maine Sculptors, A Catalog”] I was excited to see the cover of the recent “3D Dreamers” included an image of one of my favorite artists, John Bisbee. To say I was disappointed with the content is an understatement. You did nothing to tell me anything about any of the represented artists. As a collector, I am more concerned with the life, career, and inspirations of the artist than I am with the actual art. Without a reference to the process, without any insight to the artist, your article is simply a catalogue, mostly outdated, of the artists’ “recent” sales. You had an opportunity to celebrate the artist and the art, but you provided an edited version of artnet, Artsy and eBay that anyone could have done. I think you missed an opportunity to celebrate some of Maine’s most talented people. This would have been a great opportu-
nity to start a conversation about sculpture as an art form. John Powers, Cape Elizabeth Yes, “Maine Sculptors, A Catalog” is a catalog. The conversation about sculpture is well underway. See “Beyond Sculpture” [September 2016]; “Taking Flight” [May 2016]; and “Indiana’s Indianas” [Summerguide 2016]. –Ed.
Multi-Fassetted [Re: “Fassett Jewel,” Winterguide 2016] I will be able to get more on F.H. Fassett from my records. As you are aware, Edward F. was also an architect. He moved to Colorado where he worked on the St. John’s in the Woods cathedral in Denver. Francis H. Gile Fassett, also an architect, moved from Maine to Yakima, WA, where he tried to establish a self-sustaining farm. He supported the farm with his work as an architect in Yakima. His son, Donald Gile Fassett, became a mechanical engineer. It was a joy to see the “Fassett Jewel” in person. Dana Fassett, Lacey, Washington
Offering the latest information, innovation and technology in sexual health Our man in Louisiana I just snapped a photo of this Marsden Hartley Mainescape while touring the New Orleans Museum of Art [see Daniel Kany’s September 2016 story “The Body Invisible: Marsden Hartley,” which features this very painting, The Ice Hole, Maine, 1908]. The museum’s description reads: “When he exhibited The Ice Hole, Maine in New York, the painting’s vibrant colors and vigorous brushwork shocked American critics.” Not to mention the hole cut into the ice in the foreground. Robert Witkowski, Portland Thanks for the heads-up [Re: “Long Shot,” September 2016, by Benjamin Rybeck] You misspelled Benjamin’s last name but got it right in the index and ending credits. P.S. Very nice magazine. Karl Rybeck, dad, Portland
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october 2016 13
Old Vines. New Menu.
DINNER • HAPPY HOUR • LATE NIGHT FINE WINE • CRAFT COCKTAILS • LOCAL BEER OUTDOOR PATIO
173 Port Road, Lower Village, Kennebunk (207) 967-2310 www.oldvineswinebar.com
MaineClassics
Downeaster Thunderdome
staff photo; eric taylor; courtesy ber harbor bar; file photos; girl on a train, dreamworks
“Tinnies”
It’s what’s on the inside that counts. Swallow your scorn along with a mouthful of pinot noir. Wine served in a can is the only way to drink your favorite libation on-the-go. Known by our UK and Australian neighbors as ‘tinnies,’ wine and mixed spirits in cans are firm favorites at picnics, or anywhere–we snapped these cans up at Port Lobster in Kennebunkport ($6.99, 375mL). Much ado was made of the relocation of The Girl on the Train film [release date Oct. 7] from London to New York, as critics queried how the protagonist’s penchant for UK store-bought gin & tonic tinnies would translate across the Pond. America, it’s time to get in with the tin.
An event as rare and spectacular as a blue moon: The Downeaster train recently added the “Great Dome” car to delight travelers between Brunswick and Boston for one fleeting month only. Built in 1955 for the Great Northern Railroad Seattle-to-Chicago service, the windowlined car was transferred to Amtrak in 1971. For the price of an economy ticket ($25 one way), passengers from Portland to Boston’s North Station were rewarded with panoramic views of their surroundings. The highlight? “Scarborough marsh for sure,” says one passenger. “However, you do pass lot of industrial areas. Which is great if you’re a model train enthusiast!” The car has now moved onto its annual passage along the Adirondack Mountains between Montreal, Albany, and New York. And after that? How about a return visit to Portland? “We haven’t determined the Great Dome’s next route,” says Mike Talbot of Amtrak. Sounds like time for a letter-writing campaign.
Bar Harbor, WA
First there was a short-lived bar in Berlin, Germany called “Kennebunkport.” Next, food trucks crisscrossed Manhattan carrying lobster rolls. Now look who’s channeling Maine. Ben Hodgetts, Portland native and owner of the new Seattle bistro Bar Harbor, is enticing the West Coast with a taste of Maine. “I’ve always wondered why the lobster roll or its equivalent isn’t a thing out here,” Hodgetts says. Now it is a ‘thing.’ The menu includes lobster rolls, whoopie pies, New England clam chowder, and “Seattle’s equivalent to the lobster roll: Washington’s own indigenous Dungeness Crab roll.” Alas, no Moxie on tap.
In Memoriam
Sister Mary Aloysius, 84, one of the last remaining cloistered nuns in residence at the Sisters of the Precious Blood Monastery on State Street, passed away recently at Mercy Hospital. Sister Mary, born Angelina Bernadette Venezia, first entered the Portland monastery in 1952, where she took her sacred vows and devoted her life to prayer and quiet reflection. According to the Portland Diocese website, “The Sisters lead a hidden life of silence and sacrifice to draw down many graces upon our Church and our world.” She is survived by her religious family, Sister Mary Catherine and Sister Mary Jo, who still reside in the monastery on State Street. october 2016 15
Overlooking Port Clyde harbor, my summer art gallery features the Wyeths, living and painting in this island-dotted midcoast region since 1920. Original art, rare signed & limited edition collector prints and books, a frame shop, raven sculpture, Wyeth illustrated children’s books, cards, gifts, and ticketing for Wyeths by Water excursions, all combine to make this a unique destination in Maine, not to be found anywhere else. Open daily from 10am-6pm Memorial Day thru Columbus Day. 207.372.6543 ext. 3 Jamie Wyeth, Red Tailed Hawk, mixed media, 15” x 15,” original, signed lower left
wyethgallery@lindabeansperfectmaine.com
wyeth
gallery & boat tours Port Clyde, Maine • LindaBeansPerfectMaine.com
Andrew Wyeth, Jamie Wyeth, and N.C. Wyeth famous painting locations can be seen on your choice of three art tours aboard the Maine lobsterboat “Linderin Losh.” A Coast Guard licensed captain and tour guide will also tell you about local lobstering during each 2.5-hour excursion. 2.5 Hours - $42 per person Departs Port Clyde General Store Dock 2pm, Monday–Friday Book online, get tickets at the dock, or in the Wyeth Gallery! wyethtours@lindabeansperfectmaine.com
from top: gastropod; Henri Matisse, (France, 1869 - 1954), Icare (Icarus) 8 of 20 in “Jazz” (detail), 1947, Stencil, lithograph, pochoir, 16 1/2 x 25 1/2 inches, Ex.2016.9 - This Exhibition is provided by Bank of America’s Art in our Communities program. - Funded in part by a grant from the Maine Arts Commission, an independent agency supported by the National Endowment for the Arts. Pedal Punk - courtesy photo
Experience
Food Festivals Acadia’s Oktoberfest & Food Festival, 20 Main St., Southwest Harbor. Wine and cheese tasting, Maine-based brewfest, locally sourced food, and crafts, Oct. 7-8. acadiaoktoberfest.com
Damariscotta Pumpkinfest and Regatta. Pinkham’s Plantation, 431 Biscay Rd. Pumpkinboat regatta and derby, pumpkin catapulting, giant pumpkin art, pumpkin-pie eating, and parade, Oct. 1-7. damariscottapumpkinfest.com Great Maine Apple Day, Common Ground Education Center, 294 Crosby Brook Rd., Unity. Apple-centric agricultural celebration offers history, flavor and fun with workshops, treats and Maine-made goods, Oct. 16. mofga.org Harvestfest, Short Sands Beach, York. Traditional fall harvest food, kids activities, crafts, and music, Oct. 15. maineoktoberfest.org Harvest on the Harbor, Ocean Gateway, Portland. 8th annual food and wine festival (21+ only). Chef demonstrations, lobster chef competition, Brews & Blues BBQ,
The Tempest, Oct. 10-29. 933-9999 theateratmonmouth.org
tasting events, Oct. 20-23. harvestontheharbor.com Maine Harvest Festival, Cross Insurance Ctr., Bangor. A delicious celebration of Maine’s small farms and their bounty, Nov. 19-20. maineharvestfestival.com
Theater
Belfast Maskers, at locations around Belfast; Noel Coward’s Blithe Spirit, Oct. (dates TBA); Annual Holiday Show, Dec. 930-7244 belfastmaskers.com Children’s Museum & Theater of Maine, 142 Free St., Portland. Stage stories, daily. 8281234 kitetails.org City Theater in Biddeford, 205 Main St. Over the River and Through the Woods, Oct. 14-23; The Christmas Survival Guide, Dec. 2-18. 282-0849 citytheater.org Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland. Anthony Bourdain - The Hunger, Oct. 9. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Freeport Community Players, Freeport Performing Arts Center, 30 Holbrook St., Freeport. Moonlight Masquerade, Oct. TBA. 865-2220 fcponline.org
Galleries
Art Gallery at UNE, 716 Stevens Ave. Annual Sculpture Garden Invitational, through Oct. 31. 221-4499 une.edu/artgallery
Say Cheese: The Maine Cheese Guild Open Creamery Day, various locations, Oct 9; The Maine Cheese Festival at Savage Oakes Vineyard Oct. 16.
Gaslight Theater, Winthrop St., Hallowell. The Man Who Came to Dinner, Nov. 11-20. 626-3698 gaslighttheater.org Hannaford Hall, USM, 88 Bedford St., Portland. Mike Daisy, Nov. 18. porttix.com Heartwood Regional Theater Company, Lincoln Academy, Newcastle. These Shining Lives, Nov. 3-6. heartwoodtheater.org heartwoodtheater.org Maine State Ballet Theater, 348 U.S. Rte. 1, Falmouth. The Little Mermaid, Oct. 8-15; The Nutcracker, Nov. 25 - Dec. 4. 781-7672 mainestateballet.org Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. Brown Bear, Brown Bear and Other Treasured Stories by Eric Carle, Oct. 15; BalletX, Oct. 20; Cirque Mechan-
ics: “Pedal Punk”, Oct. 27; RENT – 20th Anniversary Tour, Nov. 5; The Victorian Nutcracker, Dec. 17-18. 842-0800 porttix.com
Bates College Museum of Art, Olin Arts Center, 75 Russell St., Lewiston. Jay Bolotin: The Book of Only
Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main St., Ogunquit. Seven Brides for Seven Brothers, Sep. 7-Oct. 1; Million Dollar Quartet, Oct. 5 - Nov. 6; Beauty and the Beast, Nov. 30 - Dec. 18. 656-5511 ogunquitplayhouse.org Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Murder for Two, Oct. 20-Nov. 6. 942-3333 penobscottheatre.org Portland Stage Company, 25 Forest Ave. Later Life by A.R. Gurney, Sep. 27 – Oct. 23; Sotto Voce by Nilo Cruz, Nov. 1-20; A Christmas Carol, Dec. 3-24. 774-0645 portlandstage.org Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd., Standish. Disney’s Cinderella KIDS, Nov. 4-6; A Charlie Brown Christmas, Dec. 2-18. 6423743 schoolhousearts.org Theater at Monmouth, 796 Main St., Monmouth.
Pedal Punk dancers defy gravity at Merrill Auditorium on Oct. 27.
The Art Books of Henri Matisse at the Portland Museum of Art, Oct. 7–Dec. 31. Above: Icare (Icarus)
Enoch, through Oct. 8; Mythology, through Dec. 23; Rona Pondick and Robert Feintuch: Heads, Hands, Feet; Sleeping, Holding, Dreaming, Dying, Oct. 27 – Mar. 23. 786-6158 bates.edu/museum Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 1 Bath Rd., Brunswick. Renaissance Rivalries: Painting and its Sister Arts, through Nov. 27; This is a Portrait if I Say So: Identity in American Art, 1912 to Today, through Oct. 23; Robert Frank: Sideways, through Jan. 29; Nineteenth Century Art and Artifacts, through Jun. 4. 725-3275 bowdoin.edu/artmuseum Colby College Museum of Art, 5600 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville. A Usable Past: American Folk Art at the Colby College Museum of Art, through Jan. 8; Teresa Margolles: We Have a Common October 2016 17
Don’t Miss!
Fall
Pumpkin Train
Paint a miniature pumpkin and enjoy complimentary hot cider and cookies aboard the train. $10 per adult, $6 per child. Oct. 22-30. mainenarrowgauge.org
jekyll & Hyde
Silent screening of the classic film at The Merrill Auditorium. Tickets $18 Oct. 29 porttix.com
Masked Madness
Masquerade, fundraiser, and dance party with live auction. Featuring special guest Tricky Britches. Suggested donation $50. One Longfellow Square, Oct.27. onelongfellowsquare.com
Thread, through Dec. 11. 859-5600 colby.edu Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. About Buildings, through 2017; American Treasures from the Farnsworth, through 2017; N.C Wyeth: Painter, through December; Andrew Wyeth: Dory, through November. 596-6457 farnsworthmuseum.org First Friday Art Walk, downtown Portland. Visit local galleries, studios, and museums, Oct. 7, Nov. 4, Dec. 2. artwalkmaine.org Maine College of Art,522 Congress St., Portland. Artist lecture by Allyson Mitchel, Oct. 20; Anguish curated by Cynthia Norse, Oct. 28-Jan. 14; Artist lecture by Saya Woolfalk, Nov. 3. meca.edu/events Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., Portland. Designing Acadia: Maine’s National Park Experience, through Jan. 14, 2017; Remembering the Great Portland Fire of 1866, through Oct. 774-1822 mainehistory.org Maine Jewish Museum, 267 Congress St., Portland. The Maine Jewish Museum is excited to present body of work “STILL.” The exhibition will be on view from September 15 through November 13; Deborah Klotz Artist Talk on Sunday Oct. 30. Admission is free. mainejewishmuseum.org Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. Skowhegan at Seventy, through Oct. 10; Unbound: Tim Rollins and K.O.S., Sep. 16 – Dec. 31; The Art Books of Henri Matisse, Oct. 6 – Dec. 31; Of Whales in Paint, Oct. 15 – Dec.31. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org
Music
Blue, 650 Congress St., Portland. Acoustic Jam, Ev1 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
ery Tues.; Irish Music Night, Every Wed.; 774-4111. portcityblue.com Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland. Brand New, Oct. 15; Five Finger Death Punch and Shinedown, Nov. 27; Chris Young – I’m Comin Over Tour, Dec. 2; Boston Pops, Dec. 16. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Dogfish Bar & Grille, 128 Free St., Portland. Trivia Night, every Tues.; Acoustic Open Mic, every Wed.; Jazz Happy Hour with Travis James Humphrey and guests, every Fri.; Live music Wed.-Sat. every week. 772-5483 thedogfishcompany.com Empire, 575 Congress St., Portland. The Couch open mic, comedy and game nights, every Sun.; TriviYeah!, every Mon.; Rhythm & Tues, every Tues.; Clash of the Titans, every Wed.;Tribute2 Alicia Keys, Oct. 13; The Mel Harris Experience, Oct. 15; Onry Ozzborn, Oct. 19; East Cameron Folkcore, Oct. 21; And The Kids, Oct. 27; HalloWEEN Oct. 27. 747-5063 portlandempire.com Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Tom Rush, Oct. 16;An Evening of Dan Fogelberg Music by Don Campbell Band, Oct. 22; An Evening with George Winston, Oct. 30; Taylor Hicks, Nov. 5; Noel Paul Stookey, Nov. 11; Martin Sexton, Nov. 18; James Montgomery Band, Nov. 19; Judy Collins, Nov. 27. 646-4526 jonathansogunquit.com Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle St., Portland. An Intimate Evening with Kristin Chenoweth, Oct. 1; An Evening with Joan Baez, Oct. 4; Beethoven’s Fourth, Oct. 9-10; Cirque Mechanics, Oct. 27; Halloween Silent Film – Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde, Oct. 29; Bluebeard’s Castle, Nov. 1; Sports!, Nov. 6; Steve Vai, Nov. 11;
Coastal Tales
Maine author Morgan Callan Rogers gives a reading and discussion of her new novel, Written On My Heart, at the Portland Monthly Headquarters on 165 State Street, Portland. Reception and book signing to follow with copies of the novel provided by Kelly’s Books To Go. Hosted by BookSpeak, a new literary series based in Maine, and sponsored by Hannaford and Portland Monthly. Oct. 20 at 7 p.m. Praise for Written On My Heart: “A very well crafted, sensitive portrayal of the lives of a small cluster of families living in a fairly isolated, fictional coastal fishing village in Maine.” –GoodReads
United States Army Jazz Ambassadors, Nov. 12-13; A Far Cry Featuring David Krakauer, Nov. 15; Sibelius’ Fifth, Nov. 20. 842-0800 porttix.com One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Portland. 13; Marshall Crenshaw, Oct. 14; Connor Garvey and Raina Rose, Oct. 15; David Ramirez, Oct. 19; Portland Jazz Orchestra, Oct. 20; The David Mallett Band, Oct. 21; Bonhomme Setter, Oct. 22; Gerry O’Beirne with Darlin’ Corey, Oct. 23; Will Dailey, Oct. 26; Langhorne Slim and the Law with Susto, Oct. 28; Adam Ezra Group onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. Alternate Routes, Oct. 13; White Lung, Oct. 17; Doyle Bramhall II, Oct. 18; Futuristic, Oct. 19; Oh Wonder, Oct. 20; Jack Garatt, Oct. 21; BuildTek Fundraiser, Oct. 22; Yonder Mountain String Band, Oct. 23; Watsky, Oct. 25; Team 10 Tour, Oct. 26; Kat Wright and the Indomitable Soul
Band, Oct. 28; Jamestown Revivals, Oct. 30; El Ten Eleven, Nov. 10; Highly Suspect, Nov. 11; Carbon Leaf, Nov. 12; Stick Figure, Nov. 11; Balance and Composure, Nov. 15. 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com Portland House of Music and Entertainment, 57 Temple St., Portland. TRVP Nite, every Sun.; Funky Mondays, every Mon; Wednesday Happy Hour with The Working Dead, Afro Beat Music Night, every Weds. Live Music Mon. through Sat. 805-0134 portlandhouseofmusic.com State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. Andrew Bird, Oct. 13; Blue October, Oct. 17; Dirty Heads, Oct. 18; Dweezil Zappa, Oct. 21; Railroad Earth, Oct. 28; Kidz Bop Kids, Oct. 29; GRiZ, Nov. 2; Big Gigantic, Nov. 6; Atmosphere, Nov. 9; Asking Alexandria, Nov. 11; Ani DiFranco, Nov. 15. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd.,
from top: courtesy the author; maine narrow gauge; file photos
Festive
Experience
Brownfield. Stone Mountain Twilight Music Hour, Oct. 20; Barn Burner with Jesse Dee, Oct. 21; Greg Brown, Oct. 27; Eric Johnson, Oct. 28; Patty Griffin, Nov. 1, 2; John Gorka, Nov. 4; Jake Shimabukuro, Nov. 10; Jay Ungar & Molly Madison Family Band, Nov. 11. 9357292 stonemountainartscenter.com
Tasty events
Browne Trading Company, 262 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings, one or more Sat. every month, 1-5 pm. 775-7560 brownetrading.com Craft Beer Cellar, 111 Commercial St., Portland. Craft beer tastings every Fri. 956-7322 craftbeercellar.com Flanagan Farm, 668 Narragansett Trail (Rt. 202), Buxton. Benefit dinners prepared by local chefs to benefit Maine Farmland Trust. 2016 is “Word Play: The Color Series.” Fabulous Femmes to benefit The Barbara Bush Children’s Hospital: Krista Kern Desjarlais of Bresca & The Honey Bee and The Purple House, Briana Holt of Tandem Coffee + Bakery, Melissa Kelly of Primo, Ilma Lopez of Piccolo, Kim Rogers of Hugo’s and Cara Stadler of Bao Bao Dumpling House and Tao Yuan, Oct. 30; White: Larry Matthews of Back Bay Grill and Jason Williams of The Well at Jordan’s Farm, Dec. 10. flanaganstable.com Local Sprouts, 649 Congress St., Portland. Music Brunch with Sean Mencher and friends, every Sun. localsproutscooperative.com Lolita Vinoteca + Asador, 90 Congress St., Portland. Tapas Mondays, every Mon. 3-11 p.m.: wines & small plates pairings. 775-5652 lolita-portland.com Maine Beer and Beverage, Public Market House, Congress St., Portland. Tastings every Thurs., 4:30-6:30. mainebeerandbeverage.com Old Port Wine Merchants, 223 Commercial St., Portland. Wine tastings every third Wed. 772-9463 oldportwine.com Otherside Deli, 164 Veranda St., Portland. Wine tasting every first Tues. 761-9650 othersidedeli.com Sweetgrass Farm Old Port Tasting Room, 324 Fore St., Portland. Maine-made wine, bitters, and spirit tastings all the time. 761-8446 sweetgrasswinery.com
Comedy
Jonathan’s, 92 Bournes Ln., Ogunquit. Bob Marley, Nov. 25; Paula Poundstone, Nov. 26. 646-4526 jonathansogunquit.com Lincolns, 36 Market St., Portland. Laugh Shack comedy every Thursday. facebook.com/ THlaughshack The Gold Room, 512 Warren Ave., Portland.
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Experience
Oct 14-23 . Fridays & Saturdays @ 7:30pm, Sundays @ 2pm
Bonhomme Setter bring their international, multiinstrumental sound to One Longfellow Square on Oct. 22 at 7 p.m.
Headliners: weekly shows featuring three comedians, including a national headliner, every Friday. thegoldroommaine.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. Juston McKenney, Oct. 1. 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Portland. The Capitol Steps, Oct. 16. 956-6000 statetheatreportland.com
NOVEMBER 18–DECEMBER 31 Thursday–Sunday, 4–9 p.m. (closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Eve)
Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dug Way Rd., Brownfield. Bob Marley, Oct. 13; Capitol Steps, Nov. 12. 935-7292 stonemountainartscenter.com
Film
Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Portland. Imber’s Left Hand, Sept. 30, Oct. 2. 775-6148 portlandmuseum.org
Don’t Miss
Boothbay Railway Village, 586 Wiscasset Rd., Boothbay. 49th Annual Fall Foliage Festival, arts and crafts, live entertainment, train rides, antique automobiles and a pumpkin carving contest, Oct. 8-9. railwayvillage.org
www.MaineGardens.org B O O T H B A Y ,
M A I N E
The Boothbay region is loaded with winter and holiday events and activities. Visit www.BoothbayLights.com.
2 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Center St., Portland. Professional Bull Riders - Blue DEF Tour, Oct. 21-22. 775-3458 crossarenaportland.com Fall Festival Weekend, Sunday River Resort. The unofficial kickoff to Sunday River’s winter season, the festival includes live music, a beer garden, wine tasting, arts & crafts, scenic lift and wagon rides, children’s games and activities, and the famous North American Wife Carrying Championship, Oct. 8-9. (800) 543-2754 sundayriver.com Freeport Fall Festival, Freeport. Live music, arts and craft exhibitors, and some of
courtesy photos
PHOTO BY PAUL VANDERWERF (CC BY 2.0)
Andrew WK: The Power of Partying, Space Gallery, 538 Congress St., Portland. Musician, party guru and motivational speaker, Andrew WK, presents The Party Party, a worldwide movement of positivity, community and the search for universal truth through partying, Nov. 26. space538.org
Maine’s best food—including annual favorite, the Chowdah Challenge, Oct. 1-2. freeportfallfestival.com Fryeburg Fair, “Maine’s Blue Ribbon Classic” since 1851. Livestock, pig scramble, midway rides, sheepdog trials, a woodsmen’s field day of timber-related competitions, live music, magicians, storytelling, and puppets, Oct. 2-9. 935-3268 fryeburgfair.com Lighthouse, Legends & Lore Cruise, Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Red Cloak Haunted History Tours presents a spooky autumn cruise aboard the Merrymeeting. Guides regale the hallowed tales of up to seven mid-coast lighthouses, Oct. 7. 443-1316 mainemaritimemuseum.org Moonlight Masquerade, Freeport. The 2nd Annual Moonlight Masquerade, featuring music by The Delta Knights, food, drinks, and a costume contest. Oct. 15. www.fcponline.org North American Wife-Carrying Championships, Sunday River, 97 Summit Rd., Bethel. Committed couples face uneven ground, obstacles and water hazards at this lighthearted annual challenge, Oct. 8. sundayriver.com
Hold onto your hats. Professional Bull Riders come to the Cross Insurance Arena, Oct. 21
Octoberfest, Maine Mall, South Portland. Celebrate October with a classic outdoor beer garden, local food trucks, music and crafts, as well as children’s activities,Oct. 15. mainemall.com Ogunquitfest, Ogunquit. Annual fall festival with arts and crafts, food vendors, family activities, high-heel and bed races, a scarecrow contest and more. chamber.ogunquit.org One Longfellow Square, 181 State St, Portland. Maine Voices: Rob Tod, Oct. 18; The Adulting School, Nov. 13; SheSpeaks: An evening of women’s storytelling, Dec. 8. onelongfellowsquare.com Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St., Portland. Henry Rollins, Oct. 31. 956-6000 portcitymusichall.com
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Experience Portland Science Center, 68 Commercial Street, Maine Wharf, Portland. Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition, through October. portlandsciencecenter.com Pumpkin Train, Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Co. & Museum, 58 Fore St., Portland. Enjoy a train ride with views of Casco Bay while you keep warm with cider and cookies, pumpkin painting for children. Oct. 22, 23, 29, 30. 828-0814 mainenarrowgauge.org Saco Harvest Festival, Saco. Fall, family-oriented festival with vendors and activities, Oct. 22. sacospirit.com Spurwink 30th Annual Humanitarian Awards, Circus Maine, Thompson’s Point, Portland. The evening will feature catering by Aurora Provisions, circus performers, and more. All funds raised will go to support Spurwink’s programs helping children in crisis. Oct. 21. spurwink.org/humanitarian
Literary Events
Portland Magazine Headquarters, Hosted by BookSpeak, 165 State Street, Portland. Morgan Callan Rogers will give a talk and reading from her new novel, Written On My Heart. Oct. 20, 7 p.m. 350-6823.
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Experience
The Firehouse Center, Hosted by BookSpeak, Bristol Road, Damariscotta. Reading, Book Discussion, and Signing of The Boston Castrato, November 15, 7 p.m. 350-6823. colinsargent.com
1920s Reception, Portland Magazine Headquarters, 165 State Street, Portland. Refreshments, reading & signing of The Boston Castrato. November 17, 7 p.m. 775 4339. portlandmonthly.com
–Compiled by Jeanee Dudley To submit your own event listing visit: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/
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Now located at The Shops at Falmouth Village, 240 U.S. Route 1
Now accepting seasonal clothing and accessories
forgetmenotsfalmouth.com 2 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
courtesy photos by Iziliaev
Gulf of Maine Books, 134 Maine Street, Brunswick. Maine’s famous alternative independent bookstore. Reading, book discussion, and signing of The Boston Castrato, November 16, 7 p.m. colinsargent.com
Wade Zahares Studio
Fall at Wades Place, Pastels
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A t a s t y b l e nd of the fabulous, the eyebrow-raising, and the just plain w ro n g .
Achtung,
You, too, can own slice of World War II history, and you may not even need to part with cash. Levant, Maine resident William Terra, 79, has spent the past 15 years perfecting his 30-foot replica of the German battleship, the Admiral Graf Spee, complete with a 15-horsepower motor and room for two passengers (pictured above on Pushaw Lake, near Orono). Terra, a model enthusiast, had bought a 6-foot replica of the vessel which inspired him to create his own 1:20 version of the battleship. According to the Craigslist post, Terra will accept payment in “partial trade of firearms.”
Clockwise from top left: William Terra(2); Oleg Sharonov; delcoghost.com; file images; national gallery of art instagram
Baby
Let Me
Outta Here
Maine Man Director, producer, screenwriter, Emmy award-winner… J.J. Abrams wears many labels. One particular label recently caused a stir in Portland. Abrams, who owns a summer home near Camden, was spotted at the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C. this August sporting a T-shirt from Eventide, recently voted “one of the best restaurants in the world” by Conde Nast Traveller. “We’re all huge Star Wars nerds,” says co-owner and co-chef Mike Wiley. “It was a total surprise. Maybe he thinks the force is strong with us…”
There ought to be a room for people like you. The Escape Room at 496 Congress Street encourages you to apply your secret-agent skills in a highintensity escape challenge–in 60 minutes. “The concept has been around for ages in Eastern Europe and Russia,” says co-owner Dave Jopp. “We were the first to try it in Maine. We have around 1,000 visitors a month. It’s the interactive, immersive experience you just don’t get from a video game.” Except, perhaps, Pokémon Go. escaperoomme.com
B e e f, F r i e d
Two deputies in Parkman, Maine, sent Maine media outlets into a frenzy after they employed unusual tactics to apprehend an escaped cow. After many hours of chasing, the boisterous bovine was brought down by two shots from a Taser gun and returned to the farm. A post on the Piscataquis County Sheriff’s Office Facebook page reads, “The danger is that after reading this you will conclude that you have a bunch of Keystone Cops, or rednecks…but much of police work is community problem solving.”
So I See You Brought Your
Witches
This monument to the founder of Bucksport is more often visited by fans of the supernatural than by historians. The legend goes that Colonel Jonathan Buck, a stoic Puritan, was cursed by a woman he’d condemned to execution for witchcraft. Soon after his death in 1795, an indelible stain shaped like an witch’s boot appeared on the monument beneath the Colonel’s name. In a paper on local folklore found in The Bucksport Library, Esther E. Wood writes, “Local tradition feeds upon lies and flies far and fast on the wings of nonsense.”
OCTOBER 2016 27
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top: Keri Herer, inkwell at the Press hotel; lower right: Top of the East, the westin portland harborview
Inkwell at the Press Hotel
Business with Pleasure I
If you’re working after hours why not make it somewhere special? Discover the best places in the city to seal a deal over a drink.
t’s said that the most important business is conducted on the golf course, not in the office. But when the weather turns chilly, you’ve got to bring you’re A-game indoors. Luckily, Portland is home to a host of savvy restaurants and bars perfectly suited for mixing cocktails and contracts or dinner and deals.
where the closers go No one knows the best places to woo clients better than Portland’s top professionals. For
By Ka ren Hofreiter
John Hatcher, owner of The Hatcher Group of Keller Williams Realty, the Cumberland Club means a done deal. “The Cumberland Club is one of Portland’s undiscovered jewels where I can meet with clients in a discrete location in the heart of downtown. The food is outstanding–the lobster BLT is the best lobster sandwich in Portland–as well as the craft cocktails and signature drinks. The staff knows every member’s name, and my guests are always made to feel special.” From the Club’s impresOctober 2016 29
P ortland a f t e r da r k
Clockwise from above: Hunt + Alpine on Market Street boasts a creative menu of cocktails in a minimalist Scandinavian-inspired setting; members of Maine Women’s Newtwork enjoy sunset at the Top of the East; get some fresh air after a long day in the office at the Treehouse Cafe and Lounge; and cozy up to the bar at the Cumberland Club.
S
mall, quiet and a bit off the main drag” is how Tom Landry, broker/owner of Benchmark Real Estate, describes his favorite places to charm clients. “For a quick meeting with drinks and apps, it’s Lolita in the East End. It has a great local beer selection and in3 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
ventive cocktails (clients love the Boss Lady II). The staff knows me and is always polite, helpful, casual, and welcoming–a rare blend. If I really want to impress and have time for dinner, it’s off to my new absolute favorite: the Drifter’s Wife. Owners Peter and Orenda Hale and the staff are among the most knowledgeable of food and beverage of anywhere we’ve dined. Clients are always impressed by the simple, ingredientcentric dishes.” Other favorites for sophisticated schmoozing include the Top of the East, with its spectacular panoramic city views and decor that reminds us of a hotel in
Reykjavik, so it may be the perfect spot to negotiate with our Eimskip friends; the indigo-hued, modern and airy Glass Lounge; and the sleek and studious Inkwell (pictured previous page), where contracts are certain to get, well, inked. Toast of the town If it’s potential clients, partners, or just likeminded industry folks you are looking to meet, Portland’s numerous lively networking events are the way to go. Events hosted by the Maine Women’s Network are a great example of what can be expected: top locations (e.g., Portland Country Club, Top of
dylan verner (5)
sive white-columned entrance to its stately Victorian-style dining room and bar (complete with chandeliers, fireplace, and crown molding), one can smell sweet success. The Club offers private meeting rooms, three cozy living rooms, and the “Chamberlain Bar” named for Joshua Chamberlain who was a member of the club. Nicole Olivier, author and owner of the literary events company BookSpeak, likes to keep it casual and low-key. “It’s fun to talk books with an author at the Hunt + Alpine Club, with its crisp, Scandinavian atmosphere and cleverly crafted bartending. Their cocktails also honor the ’50s with a twist, not to mention their windows on Tommy’s Park and people-watching if you sit at the counter, waiting for your guest to arrive. For a quiet, cozy neighborhood feel, definitely [head to] the Treehouse Cafe and Lounge.” Olivier recently met with Ann Beattie (The State We’re In) at Pai Men Miyake on Longfellow Square.
the East), light hors d’oeuvres, and a large crowd of all ages representing a wide range of industries (corporate, healthcare, education). “Our organization is about women supporting women to grow their professional and leadership skills through networking and education. Attendees have really enjoyed the speakers we feature and
love the open networking event. It’s an opportunity to create collaborations,” says Kris McCrea, Chair of the Portland Chapter MWN. Many networking groups are tailored to certain interests; for example, Greendrinks is for those with an interest in sustainability and the environment, while Think Local is especially for individuals and small businesses and spotlights local non-profits. Young professionals will want to check out PROPEL, which hosts themed events including “Welcome to Maine” for newcomers; “Portland Eats!” for foodies; and “Live from the C-Suite” for picking the brains of the top execs in town. Portland Regional Chamber of Commerce events are key to getting to know the movers and shakers in the local business community. n The Cumberland Club: 116 High Street, Portland, 773-6402, cumberlandclub.org; membership required Hunt and Alpine Club: 75 Market Street, Portland, 747-4754, huntandalpineclub.com
Treehouse Cafe and Lounge: 484 Stevens Avenue, Portland, 874-0706 Lolita: 90 Congress Street, 775-5652, lolita-portland.com The Drifter’s Wife: 63 Washington Avenue, 805-1336; drifterswife.com Top of the East: Westin Portland Harborview Hotel, 157 High Street, 207-775-5411, topoftheeast.com Glass Lounge: Hyatt Place Portland, 433 Fore Street, 207-775-1000 Inkwell: 119 Exchange Street, Press Hotel, 207-808-8800, thepresshotel.com Maine Women’s Network: open networking evening events the 3rd Thursday of every month. mainewomensnetwork.com Greendrinks: second Tuesday of every month, 5:30 p.m. portlandgreendrinks.com Think Local: Business Mixers. thinklocalnetworking.com PROPEL: propelportland.org; After Hours events. propelportland.org Portland Regional Chamber of Business: “Business After Five” events. portlandregion.com.
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October 2016 31
I nsig hts
Vital Portland in Renaissance:
Statistics
Portlanders act younger, more cosmopolitan, and hungrier than ever. corey templeton
F r o m staff & WIre reports
T
he last time anything like this happened in Portland, Maine, was never.
Sure, the Forest City enjoyed a sugar high in the 1860s; flickered into incandescence in the 1920s; and converted many of its warehouses into condos in the 1980s, a big ‘tell’ that we were moving from a manufacturing to a service economy. But this is different. Call it a small-batch economy. When you listen to people talking, you hear hyperbolic enthusiasms like “Can you believe what’s happening in Portland?’ ‘There are october 2016 33
Ins i ghts so many people here now!” “That building wasn’t here last month!” And the thoroughly unexplored “There is so much going on here!”
Y
…And we’re really thirsty: “Liquor makes up 37 percent of purchases in Portland compared to 24 percent nationwide.”–Drizly Portland’s favorite items to have delivered by Drizly, and certainly subject to its inventory, are Tito’s Handmade Vodka, La Marca Prosecco, Pinnacle Vodka Original, Corona Extra and Bieler Pere et Fils Rosé. To give you an idea of how this differs from the national average, Drizly’s top products overall are: Tito’s Handmade Vodka, Stella Artois, Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, and Coors Light.
In the Drizly universe, liquor makes up 37 percent of purchases in Portland compared to 24 percent on average across all Drizly markets nationwide. driving the engine For more subtle inquiries, there’s Portland Research Group, with offices on 1 Union Wharf. Here, Bruce Lockwood looks below the surface of demographics for clients like IDEXX and Unum, both of whom need to know what makes this city tick in order to match future employees to the area. He’s quick to point to craft-beer manufacturers as a key to Portland’s calculus of cool. “The whole craft brewery situation in Portland may have begun in Boston with Sam Adams, but something about the independence of Portland drew people like David Geary to set up shop here,” and he has numbers to prove that. Asked what he means by ‘independence,’ he says what the new micro-brewery startups were looking for here, and have so strikingly discovered, is a statistical hiccup: Portland’s near reverence for small businesses is etched into our subculture. “When you look, we have more micro
Staff Photo
es, but what exactly? ‘It’ can be shown in photos (imagine a before and after of the old Joe’s Smoke Shop–transformed today as Joe’s Variety, topped by four floors of soon-to-be residential living space), even suggested by the effervescence of First Friday Art Walk, but that’s a national phenomenon. What is peculiar to ‘us,’ right now? And who do the numbers say ‘we’ are, exactly? Here’s a clue for you all. We’re younger than the rest of Maine–quite dazzlingly, actually. The median age for a Camden resident is 54.7 years. Lubec is 54.3, Eastport 56.1. Our median age in Portland is 36.1.* The difference seems even be more stark now that Portland’s sign is ascending. Since we’re so young, maybe we’re thirstier, too. According to the vodka scholars at Drizly (think Deliveroo or 2 Dine in, with intoxicants), who chose Portland as their beachhead in Maine when they opened in April 2016, the statistical “we” may have been drinking Moscow Mules in December of
2015, but this second, we’re guzzling Raspberry Mules. But then, consumer numbers can be such a reproachful mirror. Portland’s “thirstiest” neighborhood, according to Drizly order data, is zip code 04101, which includes Downtown, the East End, and Parkside. Following 04101 are 04102, 04103 and 04106.
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breweries than most large cities.” (More, by the way, than Dublin, Ireland.) “That’s because Portland has some large businesses at the top of a graph of businesses above 500 employees,” viz. Maine Medical, Idexx, and UNUM, “but the drop to small businesses is very fast.” This energizes opportunity for new launches to answer demand from an incredibly cultural influx of new residents. “We may be unequaled as a great craft brewery launching pad.” According to Lockwood, 60 percent of Portland’s businesses (the Portland, Maine, statistical area) have zero to four employees, greater than Boston’s 57 percent. In the middle ranges, Portland ever-so-slightly lags Boston in businesses with 10 to 19 employees; 20 to 99 employees; and 100 to 499 employees. The effect is a cliff-like drop from Portland’s 5 percent of businesses over 500 employees, which invigorates the customer base for Portland’s small businesses. On the other hand, just because “we” have great craft beer to drink doesn’t mean “we’ve” found an apartment. A report by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development in October 2015 concedes, “The rental housing [in Portland] is tight.” According to
october 2016 35
Ins i ghts All of which is an indicator of how popular Portland is becoming.
their data, the Portland rental housing market has a vacancy rate of only 5.5 percent, down from 8.3 percent in April 2010.” The report goes on to say that, “during the next three years, demand is expected for 2,000 new market-rate rental units.” The report says things are even tighter in the apartment market, where vacancy rates have lowered rapidly in the past few years. “From the third quarter of 2014 through the third quarter of 2015, the apartment vacancy rate declined from 3.6 to 2.9 percent.” The MaineHousing yearly Affordability Index from 2015 reports that, while housing continued to be affordable on a statewide basis, in
3 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Portland rentals continue to be vastly unaffordable. Their report suggests the average cost for a two-bedroom rental has increased from $1, 023 in 2011 to $1,426 in 2015. By this measure, 73.1 percent of renter households are unable to afford the average two-bedroom rent, based on the city’s median income. Our Points of Origination Reporting on Portland’s cultural diversity, the Portland Press Herald, using U.S. Census figures, lists 28.2 percent of Portlanders “born away” in 1980, 40.9 percent of Portlanders “born away” in 2000, and 50.7 percent of Portlanders “born away” in 2015.
Corey Templeton
According to the BMV of Maine, 386 Portlanders registered their mopeds for the road in 2015–up from 218 in 2011, an increase of 77 percent.
C
omparing Portland’s population to the rest of Maine: In Maine, the female/male ratio is 51.1 percent to 48.9 percent. (In 1790, Maine’s percentage of females to males was 48.8 percent to 51.2 percent. In 1990, it was 51.3 to 48.7.) In Portland, it’s 50.9 percent to 49.1 percent. Contrast this to Camden, which is 56.5 to 43.5. Portland’s population is increasing, too. From 64,358 in 1990, it rose to 66,881 in 2015. The age of a Portlander, however young compared to the rest of Maine, has had a slight uptick over the last few years. This may have to do with luxury condos with price points that shut out many millennial buyers. These senior ‘new lifers’ are highnet-worth life learners here for the culture, for the restaurants, for the walkability and sense of community. Give up the mansion, have a yard sale, give up the second car (and buy a Vespa–see above), but for God’s sake, make sure there’s an elevator for the dog. n
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october 2016 37
From top, L-R: Corey Templeton; Bissell Brothers; ethan strimling; corey templeton
Origins
When?
Five cultural Tipping Points that have made Portland a global destination.
I
f Portland is starting to soar culturally, what were the launching pads, the earliest signs? We can argue all day long about this, preferably over a local craft beer, because that’s the nature of ‘pub facts.’ But in the search for that exciting instant of change, we’ve identified five primary cultural shifts that are contributing to Portland’s rise in popularity as a tourist destination as well as a place to call home.
1
Turn a dead downtown department store into a scintillating private arts school.
The defining moment that brought MECA and all its students to 522 Congress Street
by jamie H o lt
was in 1993, when the newly named Maine College of Art purchased the Beaux-Arts Porteous, Mitchell & Braun department store, est. 1904. The $10.8 million transformation was paid for by “a $1 million bond, $3.8 million attracted from the state, and the remainder from private investors,” ac-
cording to the Bangor Daily News. The turn away from retail was a daring move because many Portlanders had trouble shaking the image of Porteous, Mitchell & Braun defining Christmas at the same location for nearly 100 years. With a scholar population of nearly 500 and a student-faculty ratio of 10 to 1, with many world-renowned artists in residence, MECA is becoming more and more powerful. Completely autonomous, with its brain trust focused immediately downtown, it’s become the heart of the city. According to Stuart Kestenbaum, Interim President, “MECA is perfectly situated…Portland is a place of true cultural distinction that celoctober 2016 39
Or igins
Create a soft landing for diverse cultures from across the globe.
If you’re looking for a crystallizing moment that assured the growing demographic di-
versity of Portland of today and beyond, look to the Somali people who have enriched our city and state. Since 2001, with the escalated Somalian civil war, almost 12,000 people have relocated to our communities, bringing new life experiences and culture. “I’ve been living in Portland since 2003,” says Somalian resident Phaisa Ali. “My mother wanted to find somewhere safe to raise her family and Portland has a welcoming community with good people.” She also sees the increasing diversity as a positive change for Portland. “The immigrant population are opening new businesses, which is great for our city.” Responding to slurs made by Donald Trump, Portland’s Somali residents spoke
movingly about their presence in Maine on the steps of City Hall. Portland Mayor Ethan Strimling spoke for many when he said, “You are welcome here. You are cherished here, but more than you are welcome, we need you here, so thank you for being here.”
3
Think outside the box with outdoor concerts.
Portland has been steadily amping up its music scene to entice bigger audiences and bigger names. The Maine State Pier launched its summer concert series in 2014 on Portland Pier. This year, 30 artists–up from four in 2015–including Third Eye
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2
ebrates creative expression, individualism, and originality with its edgy urban pulse, natural beauty, and historic architectural significance.” Offering BFAs and MFAs in 11 major artistic pursuits from ceramics to digital media, MECA boasted in 2012 that 64 percent of its graduates were working as professional artists, while 24 percent were employed as graphic designers, illustrators, and art directors. The creative shift in the city was also bolstered in 1983 by the expansion of the Portland Museum of Art in 1983, which saw Henry Nichols Cobb of I.M. Pei & Partners’ distinctive red brick, half moon design become a distinct feature of downtown. In 2000 the inaugural First Friday Art Walks, launched by local gallery owners, established itself as a regular fixture in the cultural calendar and launched the local arts scene into the mainstream.
4
Blind, The Beach Boys, and Bonnie Raitt– performed to thousands. Thompson’s Point has spent 2016 riding high on its reputation as a new hub of hedonism. The picturesque waterfront venue saw numerous sold-out shows featuring the likes of The Lumineers, Leon Bridges, and Bob Dylan. The times they are a changin’.
Thirst comes first.
It seems ironic that the city proclaimed “the number one destination in the world for craft beer” by the Matador Network website, was one of the first to prohibit the sale of alcohol except for medicinal, mechanical, or manufacturing purposes in 1851. The rum trade that invoked the horror of Neal Dow and spurred prohibition efforts may be gone, but once again in Portland, booze is big business. In 2015, Maine ranked sixth with 52 breweries with revenues of $142 million, nearly half of them in Portland. Not bad for a town of 66,000 people. The newest wave of craft breweries that started with Allagash and Maine Brewing gained momentum
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origins
5
with Rising Tide, Bunker, and the relentlessly popular Bissell Brothers. The smallbatch process and unique personality of each brewery generates fierce brand loyalty among our hops-swilling populace. Take 295 South on a weekend and glance down to Thompson’s Point as you leave the city. Rain or shine you’ll see a queue of patrons vying to get their hands on a pack of the limited-release Bissell brews. According to Peter Bissell, “The key thing in this business is to let your personality come through. We have a certain vibe and aesthetic that we know appeals to our base. New brew entries are welcome because they create product diversity that’s helping bring more people to Maine.”
The sheer number and variety of eateries on the Portland peninsula (over 250 at last count) make it difficult, but not impossible, to identify the bellwether restaurant that led the present flock to international renown. Now celebrating its 20th anniversary, Fore Street set the bar for fine dining to follow, and earned chef and partner Sam Hayward a coveted James Beard Award in 2011. Credit should be given to portlandfoodmap.com for valiantly documenting the unstoppable beast that is Portland’s food scene.
Honorable Mention: Unexpected sartorial edge
When fashion’s roving eye fell on the lumberjack look, Maine was in the right place at the right time. Suddenly authentic Americana was de rigueur on the streets of New York as much as the backwoods of Maine. Heavy plaid shirts, forest greens, and full beards have become the stock style for 20- to 30-year-old males, even spurring a tongue-in-cheek style phenomenon known as “the lumbersexual.” The star of the show is the Maine staple, the
L.L. Bean boot. Leon Leonwood Bean would surely chuckle to learn his practical, waterproof work horse of a boot would become something of a coveted fashion trend. Made by hand exclusively in Maine, the sought-after boot has a limited production count and has in recent years run into problems with filling orders, which only serves to fuel its desirability. The Official Preppy Handbook, published in 1980, stated that “L.L. Bean is nothing less than the Prep Mecca.” But the present popularity seems to have floated into town on its own. In any case, Maine has no dress code. Portland is a place to be who you are. Where anything goes, energy flows. n
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From left: Jen dean photo - fore street; theodysseyonline
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October 2016 43
P e r sp ective
Dark Horses,
Shooting Stars
Investor oracle Evan Livada on trends to watch as we race to 2017.
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I nterview wit h Evan Livada By Coli n w. S argent
corey templeton
e’ve sat down across the last decades to talk about the top 100 businesses in Maine. Since so many of these have shifted their headquarters out of state, we’d like to get right to the dessert. What do you think is going on?
Portland is ridiculous. It’s getting almost over the top. You go to Commercial Street and you can’t park, you can’t move, you’ve got visitors from all over the world, you’ve got ZZ Top playing on Maine State Pier and
moe. and Bob Dylan out on Thompson’s Point. We’re a global mecca because people are reading everywhere that Portland is the greatest place going in the world. You’ve got cruise ships, two at a time, releasing 5,000 passengers onto the waterfront. Let’s start with the shooting stars.
Americans love their pets, their credit cards, and their beer. Idexx Laboratories, Inc. is up
almost 50 percent year-to-date (YTD). From a low of 63.48 in January to 115.06 a week ago. This is because they have shown consistent growth. Idexx trades at almost 49 times earning. If you invested $10,000 invested into Idexx five years ago, it would be worth $30,000 today. That’s what Wall Street likes. Revenue growth in 2015 was 7.8 percent. It’s going to rise 10.16 percent in 2016 and 8.6 percent in 2017, according to analysts. october 2016 45
Per s pective If Idexx has a hiccup, as it did a few years ago, it can get creamed, but it comes roaring back. The animal health market is expected to grow forever and forever, and they’re into the human medical testing business, too. It’s a wonderful thing for a Maine based company like this. They have 40 percent of $3.3 billion market. The risk is competition. If their market share decreases a little bit, all these momentum investors will bail. Could Idexx have started in the 1920s?
Nobody knew anything about medical test kits in the 1920s. People want immediate responses today. That’s why they’re a shooting star. What’s up with WEX? According to Bangor Daily News, “It reached a deal to purchase a fleet fuel processing competitor for $1.1 billion” last year and “bought ExxonMobil’s European fuel card business…” the year before. But the newspaper reports significant IT outsourcing: “a net loss of 25 IT positions based in South Portland as of April 2016.”
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How does their growth affect Maine?
Regarding the outsourcing, they’re in a position to say, ‘Why pay someone here $80,000 a year when you can get someone offshore to do it for $15,000?’ But doesn’t WEX’s data include government fleet-card information? Are there security issues about some of this data being held outside the U.S? See http:// www.wexinc.com/fleet/government-fleets/ how-it-works/
“There are 5.9 breweries per 100,000 adult drinkers in Portland. I think Mainers love their beer more than lobsters.” more than 700 are based in Maine. They’ve bought competitors, but there’s plenty of competition. I know they’re growing exponentially and killing it. The question is, can somebody go somewhere else and get the same thing? I don’t see it happening. 4 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
I’m out of that loop, but they have shown their commitment here by greatly expanding their campus near the Maine Mall. So the craft breweries are truly shooting stars?
I think Mainers love their beer more than lobsters. There are breweries everywhere–5.9 breweries per 100,000 adult drinkers in Portland. Matador Networks says Portland is the top craft brewery city in the world. Obviously, Geary’s was the first in town. Shipyard has it killed. In Florida, people were drinking Shipyard’s “Pumpkinhead” in the summertime. In 1994, Rob Todd started Allagash.
Today, Allagash White is considered one of the best beers there is. Near Rí Rá on the Portland waterfront, they’re charging up to $7 dollars for an Allagash white–and getting it. One of my golfing buddies went to Bissell Bros. on Thompson’s Point and had to wait in line for an hour for some of their small-batch products. They limited it to two six packs he could buy. They didn’t even exist five years ago. It all comes down to this. Just ask at the Jetport–we have people flying into Portland to drink beer. Talk about a culture shifting gears. Foul Mouth Brewery in Mill Creek used to be an auto garage. There are 22 breweries in Greater Portland right now. They all seem to be thriving. If you go into any local bar, all the local breweries are favored. I don’t think the margins are that big, and the breweries don’t hesitate to charge it to all the restaurants. Now there’s some product loyalty. Who doesn’t love a dark horse?
People in Maine love their rock and roll, their skiing, and their bagels. My No. 1 Dark Horse is the former Cumberland County Civic Center, now known as Cross
corey templeton (2)
EX started in 1983 as Wright Express, with their fleet card. It’s been publicly traded since 2005. In 2008, the low was $8.21 in November. It’s currently trading at $104.59. The five-year return has been 165.8 percent. All they do is transaction reporting, but they have revenues close to $800 million. They’re projecting $975 million to $1 billion in revenues for 2016. They’re worldwide now, with offices in US, Australia, Brazil, Britain, Italy, France, Germany, Norway, and Singapore. They went from 700 employees in 2009 to over 2,500 employees across the globe. Of this number
Arena. If they can’t–without the Pirates–make a fortune, they’re nuts. Spectra, who is running it, runs venues all over the country. They’re owned by Comcast. Spectra has the connections to get every act here now. Phish, Kiss, rising musical stars, there’s a huge profit margin on this. You could have a group of morons sitting on the board in of Cross Arena now, and it still wouldn’t matter. If you can’t get the Jehova’s Witnesses to come, and every other organization, well–the convention center should be filled every day with a convention. Not only not, but to draw from a bigger fan base, UMaine should play half their games in Cross Arena to draw from Boston alumni and north. I say the ‘Civic Center’ is going to make it and make it big. If it doesn’t make it, I’ll be amazed.
Who has the time to deal with daily IT issues? We do. Leave IT to us.
Who’s the next dark horse?
Saddleback Mountain. Chris Farmer, the GM for the last five years, went to law school and has deftly positioned it for immediate growth. They have 6,300-plus acres. They have 66 trails already, with all kinds of permits for growth. They have the infrastructure. Fantastic. But here’s the telling statistic: They have 120 condos there but permits for 900 more. The Berry Family, the resort’s previous owners, invested close to $40 million in Saddleback before it closed. They made what’s about to happen possible. Two years ago, Ski Magazine rated Saddleback as No. 1 customer satisfaction in the East. Jackson Hole was No. 1 in the West. Saddleback has a new lodge. It’s a gorgeous resort.
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It’s beautiful. But if there’s so much upside, why hasn’t Les Otten bought it?
Les Otten is too busy doing his project at The Balsams with, I guarantee you, none of his money up front. Some say Saddleback is an unripe banana. But I hear they are talking to someone with deep pockets.
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october 2016 47
p e r s p e ct i v e I think they’re going to pull it off, and it will be a tremendous success. It would have been a total shame if they’d just let the business rot. It’s a great location. Chris is a terrific manager.
S
And dark horse No. three is…
outh Portland. Mill Creek is just on the beginnings of what could be as nice as the Old Port or better, because they’re starting from Scratch. Scratch Bakeries is creating a huge following. They’re the best in the world. It’s like the soup Nazi, except with bagels. The smallbusiness culture of Ocean Avenue and the attractive commercial rents and streetfront retail set all of this up. It’s the next big area. South Portland has so much potential. The Armory is fully leased. Look at the tank farms. The pipeline has virtually shut down piping to Montreal. Who knows? When Clean Harbors clears out all the tanks, maybe they’ll they turn the tank farms into pot farms starting this November. Few people know how big the pot business is in Maine. If they legalize it, it’s big, big money. Wall Street’s investing in it, in publicly traded stocks.
There’s a marijuana mutual fund?
Not yet, but there are publicly traded stocks. You’re gifted at calling shots. You predicted the economy would tank years ago–before it happened–because you were worried about “sub-prime slime.” So you’re really high on this area this second?
I think we have the physical beauty, the islands. It’s enchanting. Go out on a little ferry boat to Long Island. New York has eight million people and it has islands, too, but… We have the panache and the quaintness and the salt here. You throw in all these tapas restaurants, DiMillos, the craft breweries, it’s wonderful. It would cost you a fortune to start a craft brewery in Boston now. We have two of the top 50 breweries in the country, in volume sold, Shipyard and Allagash. The new hotels near the waterfront are blending into a really nice area. The tourism and service industry in Portland invigorate each other. When you see not one but two huge cruise ships coming in, it’s really something. The prosperity is already here. Otherwise, who’s paying $800,000 to buy a condo overlooking the fire station on Munjoy Hill? n 4 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
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October 2016 49
Voices
What Brings Us Here? By Sarah Moore
New residents share the stories of how they came to call greater Portland home. We call it kismet.
G
Gretchen Powers
ermans describe fernweh as the yearning for another, faroff place unknown to you. During a long winter in London, longing for the ocean and a kinder city, and despite having never lived in America, I made the quick and weighty decision to leave London behind. Goodbye city noise and excitement, friends, impossible rent prices, and familiarity. Within two weeks I was standing at the Greyhound bus station in Portland, Maine, in the deadly silence after a blizzard, facing a new, blank page of my journey stretching as empty and white as the unplowed sheet of snow ahead. In a state legendary for its vast dominions of pine trees, Portland is an urban destination restless in its development. As we grow larger and more diverse as a population, the city becomes more dynamic and desirable. But what is drawing these individuals from all over the world to our small city by the sea? The destination may be the same, but our journeys are very different.
Constant Rambler Vikki Walker, 34, has seen a lot of the world, but after working for long stretches on the road with the likes of Madonna, Elton John, and Lady Gaga, the only place she wants to come back to is Portland, Maine. “I fell into the music industry around 12 years ago by complete chance. I started out on a private catering team for big musical acts–I couldn’t cook a thing,” says Walker, who originates from a small town in the rolling farmlands of England. What followed october 2016 51
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was over a decade of near constant touring to every corner of the globe as a chef, assistant, backstage manager–you name it. It was during these travels that Vikki met her now-husband Kyle, a native of Vermont, while they were both working on tour with the English rock band Keane in 2010. “The plan was that we’d try and coordinate jobs so we could travel together, but it didn’t really work out like that! We spent three years traveling in opposite directions around the globe. We’d grab time together whenever our paths crossed. A month here in Berlin, another there in Lisbon.” While the couple thrived on the nomadic, rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle, by 2013 they were ready to put down roots. “We’ve been very lucky to see so much of the world, but after a while it gets tiring living out of a suitcase all year.” With no idea of where their dream home would be, the couple decided to take a roadtrip across America in search of somewhere to call home. “We’d stop in these towns, go out and see how we felt there,” says Vikki. “We drove all along the West Coast, but nothing won us over.”
p
voices
gretchen powers
I
t was a dark evening in the winter of 2013 when the couple pulled into Portland, Maine, on a whim. “Kyle had heard Portland had this great up-andcoming reputation, so we booked into the St. John’s Inn one night and walked into town. I remember it was freezing. I think I wore every layer I owned all at once.” Despite the chilly first impression, something stuck for the couple. “There was just
something here that drew us in. Plus, the excellent Mexican food at El Rayo helped seal the deal.” Inspired, the pair began house-hunting in earnest before Vikki’s job pulled her away for a six-month world tour with Lady Gaga. “I came back to Maine in mid-summer, and I was just blown away by the city all over again. It sounds crazy, but I hadn’t really appreciated the bay right on our doorstep. Having
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been fortunate enough to see so many places in the world, I can honestly say that Casco Bay is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever known.” By 2014, the pair had made the decision to escape the relentless demands of touring gigs. Kyle secured a job in merchandising for Mumford & Sons that allowed him to remain in the city, and the pair decided to pursue their dream of opening a bar. Maps opened its doors to Market Street in 2014. “The bar is our retirement plan! It’s a way to anchor ourselves here.” The inviting underground bar is plastered with atlases, maps, and Kyle’s extensive record collection as a nod to their former life on the road. The atmosphere eschews pretension–the majority of patrons are locals quietly drinking and listening to music. “There’s something really personal about Maps. We’ve met so many wonderful people in Portland. The bar is almost like an extension of our living room–we just want to fill it with our friends and our stuff!” Despite Vikki’s attempts at retirement, she continues to field numerous jobs offers
Thursday, September 15 | 4:00–6:00 p.m. ON TAP @ RIRA 72 Commercial Street, Portland Register here: https://aarp.cvent.com/PortlandOnTapSeptember
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rebmetpeSeeffoCdnaltroP/mFriday, oc.tnevSeptember c.praa//:16 spt|tRegister h8:00-10:00 https://aarp.cvent.com/PortlandCoffeeSeptember here: a.m. 3rd Thursdays, Oct 20, Nov 17, Dec 15 | 4:00–6:00 p.m. gro.praa@em ro 303COFFEE 6-677 KLATCH ta su tc@atARABICA* noc rhttps://aarp.cvent.com/PortlandOnTapSeptember o or contact us at 776-6303 or me@aarp.org ON TAP @ RIRA 9 Commercial Street, Portland ptember 15 & 16, 2016 Friday, September 16 | 8:00-10:00 a.m. 72 Commercial Street, dr3 eht no aRiR ta su dniF ?rRegister ebmetphere: eS ni su nioj t’naCOFFEE C join us Portland in September? Find us at RiRa on the 3rd KLATCHCan’t @ ARABICA* 9 Commercial Street, Portland https://aarp.cvent.com/PortlandCoffeeSeptember *acibarA ta ro ,.m.p 00:6-00:4 ,htnom hcae fo yadsruhT Thursday of each month, 4:00-6:00 p.m., or at Arabica* rd Register here: 3 21,Friday Nov of 18, Dec 16 | 7:00-9:00 me@aarp.org tsrfi ruoY .m.a 00:01-00:8 ,htnomorhccontact ae fo us yadatir776-6303 F dr3 ehtornhttps://aarp.cvent.com/PortlandCoffeeSeptember o Fridays, on Oct the 3rd each month, 8:00-10:00a.m. a.m. Your first COFFEE @3rd ARABICA* Can’t join us in September? Find us at RiRa on the or contact us at 776-6303 or me@aarp.org !su no si egareveb beverage is on us! 9 Commercial Street, Portland Thursday of each month, 4:00-6:00 orinatSeptember? Arabica* Can’tp.m., join us Find us at RiRa on the 3rd lliw eniaM PRAA .snoitacol dnaltroP on 2 sthe ah3rd aciFriday barA of:eeach ton emonth, saelPThursday * *Please has 2 Portland locations. AARP Maine will 8:00-10:00 a.m. Your4:00-6:00 first note: of each month, p.m., Arabica or at Arabica* eachat month, 8:00-10:00 a.m. Your first beverage .teertSislaon icrus! emmoC 9 ta eonbthe 3rd Friday of be 9 Commercial Street.
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*Please note: Arabica has 2 Portland locations. AARP Maine will
*Please note: Arabica has 2 Portland locations. AARP Maine will be at 9note: Commercial Street. *Please Arabica has 2 Portland locations. AARP Maine will be at 9 Commercial Street. be at 9 Commercial Street.
WITH AARP MAINE october 2016 53
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Vo i c e s
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from the music industry. “I swear I’m scaling back! There’s an upcoming gig with a big band, a very big Irish band, that I just couldn’t turn down,” she says coyly. (Think Bonobo without the bo.) “But even when I’m in one of my favorite cities in the world, I can’t wait to come home to Portland.”
A
Le Grand Voyage fternoon light streams through the West-facing windows of Chez Okapi restaurant on St. John Street as owner Raphael Kabata prepares for the night ahead. “I’ve had the restaurant for a year now. It was hard to get going–I spent over a year searching for the right location. Portland’s real estate has become very competitive in the past few years, so it was a challenge. But the city has also become a lot
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“In just the past five years I’ve seen Portland’s diversity grow so much. “ –Raphael Kabata more open and diverse. There’s a lot more opportunity for immigrants these days,” says Raphael. The 35-year-old former lawyer from the Democratic Republic of Congo left his homeland in 2011 to escape the conflict that has plagued the landlocked Central African country. “I left Congo and emigrated to Dallas, Texas. I was in Dallas for three months trying to get a job and a place to live, but without my work permit approved I couldn’t get job or an apartment. It was a hard time.” Raphael reached out to some of his friends from the DRC who’d also emigrated for advice. “My friends encouraged me to come to Portland, Maine. They told me about an organization that would help you to get on your feet and start a life here. They said Portland was a good place to live and there were resources for immigrants. In my experience, places like this are rare.” Raphael journeyed to Portland in March 2011 and spent a year in accommodation provided by General Assistance until his work permit was accepted and he could begin work. The language barrier proved a
5 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
GRETCHEN POWERS
challenge, as all the English classes on offer from General Assistance were at capacity. “I had to teach myself English. I was lucky to have a small but supportive community of Congolese friends around me. In just the past five years I’ve seen Portland’s diversity grow so much. Dallas has a huge amount of diversity–you can find every kind of nation-
ality there–but I didn’t feel at home in Texas. It was so big, and the people were unfriendly.” Dallas’s only redeeming feature was perhaps its more forgiving climate. “The first winter I spent in Maine, I thought I wouldn’t be able to stand the cold–but I’ve grown used to it!” The idea of opening Chez Okapi (Okapi
is a mammal native to the Democratic Republic of Congo, the chez a nod to his Francophone roots) developed in Raphael’s mind as he warmed to Portland foodie culture. “I wanted to create a place where you can experience not only great, authentic African cuisine, but also to create a sense of African culture and community. I’ve met people october 2016 55
Gretchen Powers
from Kenya, Rwanda, Burundi…but it’s not just for Africans. I want locals to come here and share the experience. Portland is much more multicultural now. I want to see everyone mixing.” Business can be challenging, but Raphael is happy to have set up a restaurant in the city he now considers home. “After I’d worked for a few years and saved up for the restaurant, I could’ve moved anywhere in the country, but I chose Portland. I wanted to remain here,” he says, glancing at his wife, Octavie. The couple were childhood friends growing up in Congo. Octavie moved to Pittsburgh 12 years ago, and the pair reconnected online when Raphael moved to Maine. Octavie made the decision to join Raphael in Portland in March of this year. “I’ve found Portland a really laid-back environment; it feels a lot more friendly than Pittsburgh ever did,” she says. “If the restaurant is successful I can see us staying here for the future,” says Raphael. “I’d like to raise kids in Maine; it’s a safe place; it’s home. When people ask where I’m from I say, ‘I’m a Mainer. I’m Mr. Portland!’”
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voices
Where New Yorkers Go To Be Happy
courtesy Kate Howe
A
In the words of graphic designer Kate Howe.
s soon as I could choose my place, I chose New York City. I elected to go to Columbia over Harvard or Stanford for the worldliness, the hustle, the grit, glamour, and brushes with greatness of New York City. Four years later, when the fresh-faced graduates of those and other institutions showed up, I felt part of the city–and undeniably superior. In the years after college, I did move out of New York City, once for San Francisco, which turned out to be too parochial, and once for London, which…well that did give New York a run for its money. But settling back in Brooklyn after graduate school, I figured it was game-over. I would go on honing my version of life in the city–find my mate, buy and decorate an apartment, fur-
ther my career. Then think about children, and a weekend house, and further furthering my career. But life anywhere else did not seem plausible. If I complained about the price of real estate, or the exhaustion of the subway commute, or the waiting list for preschool, it was always with the understanding that those hardships were vastly preferable to living in the places without those hardships. I sometimes heard people discuss “getting out,” and I mentally put them in the Other category. They must not be that tough, I thought. And those poor souls in the suburbs of Long Island or Jersey. Imagine my surprise then, when I was one-half of a decision to move up to Portland, Maine. It came upon us almost by chance. My husband applied for a job in
Portland and slowly became the chosen candidate. What had seemed a harmless gambit turned into a crazy, weighty, lifealtering decision, the most difficult one of our adult lives. At first we thought, “Oh how charming. But of course we’ll stay in New York.” We made up our minds that way at least five or six times, only to be tempted during the night by fantasies of seaside meadows and ocean breezes; fantasies that our daughters could grow up knowing nature; and the biggest fantasy of all– that there might be another version of life out there, if only we were able to unwind enough to enjoy it. On a last minute trip to check out Maine again, after the job decision was already overdue and we were wracked with indeci-
“There is a
tremendous loss of
identity that comes
with leaving New York.” –Kate Howe
sion, the honey light and sweeping vista of Ocean House Road leading into Cape Elizabeth undid me, and just like that, my life path turned and led out of New York City. There is a tremendous loss of identity that comes with leaving New York. The city october 2016 57
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hen you’re proud of these things, when your small victories against all the concrete and all the people have become badges of honor, to move away is to lose a psychic armature that has been sustaining you. It is also to release all the unrealized dreams of the city and admit to yourself that they will never be. I will not be a late-blooming art star in Chelsea. My daughter will not be scouted on the street for young celebrity. Living in NYC, these were fantastical possibilities, but in Portland, Maine they are not.
I went through detox the first summer were here, releasing the psychic layers and contortions, the ways I had adapted to the environment in New York. For the first time I noticed how prevalent my internal anxiety was, as it stood out in relief against the pretty, unbothered environment. We’ve been here a year and a half now, and I have come to value something I never did in New York: ease. It’s easy to get to a beautiful beach, and so we go several times a week after work. It’s been easy to make
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real friends, easy to get involved with groups and activities that are interesting to me, easy to find a magical school for my girls, easy to complete the errands of daily life. With that ease it has become possible to enjoy the things I do, instead of being distracted by the mental load of stress and strategizing. I have crawled out of my old skin of self-consciousness and comparison, and the new one underneath feels so much lighter. There is a big community of former New Yorkers here in Portland, and it is growing rapidly. From the Airbnb hostess on our first trip, to the former Amex executive I met at the coffee shop this morning. People’s individual reasons and experiences are of course different, but there is a collective relief and wonder at the beauty here, and sense of our good fortune to have found our way here. Portland is not perfect, but it has a special combination of small-town ease and a cultural life and quality of people that outstrip its size. New York will always be magnificent, but it is not an environment for happiness. For a New Yorker willing to be happy, Portland is pretty good.
kate howe
that demands everything from its residents also returns much to them: endless stimulation for a sustained adrenaline high; an infinite string of glittering goals, the achievement of any one mysteriously leading to the appearance of a new one, like levels in a video game; and always the satisfaction that you are doing it harder, longer, bigger, and more intensely than anybody, anywhere else. Even if you’re not winning in New York, just surviving there is surely better than winning anywhere else.
voices
Gretchen Powers
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The Golden years hen New Jersey native Judy Strano, 67, read an article in the American Association of Retired People in 2011 that listed Portland, Maine as a top city for relocating, she dismissed it off-hand: “Too cold.” Little did Judy know that just three years later she and her husband, Rich, would be clinging to the side of Fort Williams Lighthouse in the middle of a raging Nor’easter, blasted by the wind and rain–and loving every second. “It was like watching fireworks. It was a truly magical experience.” The social worker of 30 years had spent her entire life in New Jersey, working, raising two children, even setting up her “Interesting Women Group” in Piscataway. However, Judy knew it was never too late for a fresh
In August 2014, Judy dragged her husband of 45 years “kicking and screaming” up to Maine. start. “I thought that if I stayed in New Jersey, I’d find it hard to adjust to retirement. It’s such a busy, hectic place. I needed a change of scene.” The initial plan had been for the couple to relocate down south, but Judy couldn’t picture herself as a stereotypical Floridian retiree. The Stranos’ son, Kevin, had moved to Portland from Brooklyn with his wife several years earlier to raise their young daughter. The desire to be nearer to her family and the
thrill of adventure tugged Judy northward, and in August of 2014, Judy dragged her husband of 45 years “kicking and screaming” up to Maine. “We decided to rent an apartment. That way, if it didn’t work out we could just leave–no strings attached. Within just a couple of months I knew we were staying.” Despite her gung-ho attitude, Judy had some reservations about leaving behind the place she’d known her entire life. “I was scared about making new friends in Portland. Meanwhile, I was saying goodbye to a group of lifelong friends back in Jersey.” Not one to linger in self-doubt, Judy joined two books clubs, the South Portland Recreation Center, Maine Audubon Society in Falmouth, and the Allen Avenue Unitarian Church. She even plans to launch a new chapter of the “Interesting Womens Group” here in Maine (her Jeroctober 2016 59
TOURISM
S P E C I A L
A D V E R T I S I N G
S E C T I O N
Creating a Passion for Portland
Greater Portland Convention + Visitors Bureau does what people think “just happens.”
I
BY R O B E R T W I T KO W S K I
magine Portland
without visitors filling our streets and businesses… “With only 67,000 residents, this city couldn’t sustain the amazing restaurants, shops, attractions, and hotels that we all enjoy as locals,” says Lynn Tillotson, President + CEO of the Greater Portland Convention + Visitors Bureau (CVB). “With the enormous amount of national competition for vacation destinations we must be out there marketing Greater Portland to continue to drive visitation, which benefits our economy and the entire region.” As Greater Portland’s official tourism marketing organization, the CVB has been promoting the growth and evolution of Maine’s largest metropolitan area since 1982. Their efforts lure millions of visitors, conferences, weddings, sporting events, and tour operators (along with their dollars) to the region–and it’s working! A media darling today, Portland is a vibrant, active, cultural, creative, and culinary destination known worldwide.
CYNTHIA FARR-WEINFELD
IT TAKES A CITY
The Greater Portland Convention + Visitors Bureau was created by area businesses who pooled their resources together to focus on promoting the region as a tourist destination. “Without tax dollar support, we’ve always relied on community partners to fund tourism marketing,” says Tillotson. “Ninety percent of our marketing is done outside the state, and even internationally, attracting over 5.5 million visitors annually–it takes a village to accomplish this. ” The CVB’s effectiveness speaks for itself, infusing billions of dollars to Greater Portland’s economy, and landing Portland many accolades including the highly coveted TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice™ Award, Top Ten Destinations on the Rise for 2016.
Maine’s largest metropolitan area has become the destination of choice for leisure and business travelers worldwide. Now a media darling, the Greater Portland area is increasingly honored in the ‘Top Ten’ rankings of travel and industry magazines, TV shows, and blogs.
SHARE YOUR LOVE @VISITPORTLAND
The CVB–widely known as VisitPortland online–embraces the digital age in getting out in front of visitors. #VisitPortland isn’t simply a hashtag, it is a battlecry for the CVB and its community, defining Greater Portland’s authenticity, creativity, and originality. Greater Portland Convention + Visitors Bureau (VisitPortland.com) Offices: 94 Commercial Street, 207-772-4994 Visitor Information Centers: Ocean Gateway Terminal 14 Ocean Gateway Pier, 207-772-5800 Portland International Jetport, 207-756-8312
GREATER PORTLAND RESULTS ECONOMIC IMPACT
$688 Million VISITORS
5.57 Million TAX REVENUE
$66.8 Million INDUSTRY JOBS
11,500
Proud to be in Good Company sey chapter still meets monthly after 20 years). “Two years on, and I’ve made the more dear friends in Portland,” Judy says. Retirement hasn’t necessarily meant a change of pace for the new Portlander, who starts each day with a walk to Bug Light Park and a swim at the recreation center, followed by voluntary work with Family Practice, Allen Avenue, and as a social worker to female students from immigrant families at South Portland High. Judy frequently recalls the busy, stressful lifestyle she once led on the fringes of New York City. Was promise of the great outdoors part of Maine’s appeal? “My whole life I was a fan of the great indoors! I really wasn’t interested in nature and getting out and being active. Now we hike, go to the beach. I swim every day. I’m tan for the first time in my life! “Coming to Portland gave me the opportunity to reinvent our lives. It has made retirement so exciting. Every day is a new adventure. We’ve probably seen more of Maine than most Mainers!”
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Gretchen Powers
T
he lifestyle change has not only proved invigorating, it’s also been healing. “You know, back when I was working, I walked with a cane. I suffered from sciatica, and I just didn’t feel good.” She sits poker-straight, slim, and full of vitality. “In part, the retirement has helped, but in a greater part, living in Maine has made me the healthiest I’ve been in years.” The Stranos’ daughter Amy, a Unitarian minister in New York, insisted that her mother visit a counselor as a condition of the move. “She thought I’d grieve my friends and my life back in New Jersey,” Judy says. “And of course, in many ways I do! I went to the counselor, but after a couple of sessions he told me, ‘Judy, you’re going to be just fine!’”
20
2016
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Vo i c e s A Port in the storm You can’t always choose where you land. But after fleeing escalating violence in Mosul, Iraq, the Abduljabbar family has found Portland to be an accidental Shangri-la. Sanaa and Aymen Abduljabbar, along with their sons Salim and Salar, arrived here in March of 2010. The family was granted asylum from the United Nations after leaving their home in Mosul and spending several years moving around Turkey. “I didn’t know BREATHE anything about Portland before I arrived. My brother had been living in Quebec, so we wanted to be close enough to him.” A roll of the dice landed the family in the Pine Tree State, where they were propelled into their new life as Mainers. “When we arrived in America, it was like being a newborn and opening your eyes for the first time. We felt like we knew nothing about life here. Luckily, Portland has been good to us,” Sanaa says. “I’ve spoken with other friends who’ve come over from Iraq and have settled in other cities in America. They say they worry about family’s safety. I’ve never felt that way here.”
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hen Salim, then 12, first walked into Lincoln Middle School in 2010, he knew only a handful of English words. Six years on, the Deering Oaks High graduate is now starting his freshman year at Bowdoin and can even boast a TED Talk presentation to his name. Sanaa,
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In Portland, you can keep your culture, your religion, your language. No one here will try and touch that.“
from left: courtesy photo; meaghan maurice
–Sanaa Abduljabbar
44, who taught biology to high schoolers in Iraq, impressed the importance of hard work on Salim and his younger brother, Salar, 15, from the moment they arrived. “I told them, ‘You’ll have to work twice as hard to prove yourself.’” Salim admits he initially struggled with motivation during middle school. “I felt like no matter how hard I worked I’d always be at a disadvantage to the kids who’d lived here their entire lives. I stuck around with kids from similar immigrant backgrounds to myself.” Salim credits moving to Deering High, the most diverse high school north of Boston, and a summer spent with Seeds of Peace international camp in Otisfield to changing his mentality. “I guess I realized I had this potential. All I had to do was work for it. I pushed myself in high school and made so many great friends. They made me feel like I was at home. They are my extended family in America.” Apart
from a maturity that’s rare in most 18-yearolds, there’s nothing to suggest that Salim is anything but your average Portland teenager, spending his high school weekends at house parties, in the Old Port, and driving to Scarborough Beach. However, he’s always aware of the duality in his identity. “I’m in this gap between being American and being Iraqi.” Is it a comfortable gap to inhabit? “Not really,” he says. “But I think perhaps it’s made me more thoughtful.” Sanaa has made an effort to balance their American life with their cultural roots and Islamic beliefs. The Abduljabbar household is strictly Arabic speaking, and they eat food prepared in keeping with the family’s Iraqi/Kurdish heritage. Sanaa, who works as a Community Health Worker at the Maine Access Immigrant Network and as a Neighborhood Coordinator at The Opportunity Alliance, is quick to share her experience to the families she works with. “I always tell
them: You can keep your culture, your religion, your language. No one here will try and touch that!” Meanwhile, Sanaa’s husband Aymen, 47, works in manufacturing for L.L. Bean. “He’s involved with making Bean boots,” Sanaa says and laughs. “It’s the most Maine job ever!” For the family, the simple pleasures of the sea, the greenery, and the surrounding natural beauty have made adjusting to their new life on the other side of the world from their home and family that much easier. “Portland is a small city, and there are so many tree and green spaces,” says Sanaa. “I would have hated living in a big city! We love taking our lunch to Deering Oaks or the beach. We plan to go up to Acadia National Park soon and explore. Iraq is my homeland and always will be, but Portland is home. We are happy here.” They may not have chosen Portland, but they’ve thrived here. You could call it luck, hard work, fate–or all three. n october 2016 63
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Maine
Cinema
On Screen Two directors of new Maine films dare to take us below our lovely state’s lovely surface.
W
B y Co l i n W. Sargent
hat is it about our state that both grounds and floats a film? Mysteries like this keep directors Maris Curran (Five Nights in Maine, Film Rise, 2016) and Jared Martin (The Congressman, Shadow Distribution, 2016) awake at night. Both moviemakers have vacationed here, grown up here, sensed something extraordinary here, and marveled at Maine’s dreamy surety all their lives. Successfully addressed, our state is a back door to the world’s unconscious. In their two striking films this year, each of these directors dares to step through.
interview With
Maris Curran Director of
5 Nights in Maine
filmindependent.org
Watching Five Nights in Maine, I was stunned by the levels of estrangement the story explores. It starts with the unreality of Sherwin’s losing his wife to a car accident, which puts him into an emotional freefall.
Maris Curran: I think when anybody is taken that quickly and unexpectedly, there’s often a sense of is this real? Is she really gone? It seems an even more savage disconnect for him because he wasn’t there to witness it.
The fact that he is not present for that and not part of the accident causes the floor to
october 2016 65
Cinema go out from underneath him. He is suspended and falling at the same time. It’s also isolating. Grief can be so isolating. The way we often deal with it in the U.S. is an individualized experience, behind a closed door, one person. I wanted two people to open that door to look at each other. It’s easy to see why David Oyelowo is in such demand. He was fantastic. Not every actor has his interiority. It was so moving to see the world through his eyes.
Starring:
I was looking for somebody who could convey great depth, interiority, and quiet power in the same moment. And at the same time be a movie star. Not many actors put both of those together. It was clear very quickly to me that David would play Sherwin. I’d ask you how you could make the silence so loud, and solicitous questions from friends and family (oh, how are you doing?) so devastating, but you’ve already revealed you were going through something
David Oyelowo, Dianne Wiest, Rosie Perez Maine locations: Phippsburg, Brunswick, Cape Elizabeth High School, and South Portland.
Synopsis:
After his wife’s tragic death, a man goes to rural Maine to visit his mother-in-law.
2015 Toronto International Film Festival – World Premiere, 2016 Palm Springs International Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 Cleveland International Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 Sarasota Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 Vail Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 Nashville Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 San Francisco International Film Festival – Official Selection 2016 Montclair Film Festival – Official Selection
like that yourself.
The film is not autobiographical, but as a writer-director I was going through a divorce. I knew from my own life what happens when things fall apart in an instant. These aren’t parallel stories–their truth doesn’t need to be my truth–but there was a common emotional language. Sherwin’s sister (played by Teyonah Parris) says, ‘You don’t have to accept your mother-in-law (Lucinda’s) invitation and visit her in Maine.’ Then the film cuts to Sherwin driving there. Can you tell us about that transition?
His wife had just come back from visiting her mother (played by Diane Wiest), who was ill. He gets a call from her inviting him to Maine, which was unexpected. It’s against his better judgment that he decides to do it. There is a curiosity there. To what extent is Maine’s remoteness and alien geography a character in this film?
Maine is unbelievably beautiful, rugged in its beauty, a place where you can sense the character finding some kind of power because of that beauty but also a place he can feel really alienated. It’s not inviting to
The Rising Star of David Oyelowo
The British Nigerian actor is fast becoming hot Hollywood property, thanks to several star turns in the spotlight, including his moving portrayal as Martin Luther King Jr. in Ava DuVernay’s 2014 biopic Selma. In a recent interview with Variety magazine, Oyelowo comments on his recent work with female directors (in addition to Curran and DuVernay, he has also worked with Amma Asante on A United Kingdom, Mira Nair’s upcoming Disney film the Queen of Katwe (pictured), and in Nina by Cynthia Mort). “The kinds of stories I want to be a part of telling are about delving into what it is to be a human being,”says Oyelowo. “This is a generalization, but often, male directors are more interested in action-oriented films or franchise movies.” The actor is currently filming for a screen adaptation of Americanah, the much loved 2013 novel by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, alongside Academy Award winner Lupita Nyong’o. Watch this space.
6 6 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Academy Award nominee Rosie Perez plays Ann, Lucinda’s in-home care nurse. Below: David Oyelowo, Maris Curran, and Dianne Wiest on-set.
Grief can be so isolating…I wanted two people to open that door to look at each other.” Sherwin as an African American until he discovers parts of it himself.
filmrise; inset left page: disney
Jogging seems boring until you watch Five Nights in Maine.
The scene in the woods. It was important to me that the film not only be set in Maine but [capture its strangeness]. In the scene in the woods you get to see what it’s like for someone unfamiliar with the area. Sherman experiences it based on his life. That scene would be very different if I were in the woods. If Pemaquid is part of your psychic geography, what did you do out there growing up?
I’d spend two weeks of the year in Pemaquid during the summers. Even as a fiveyear-old, I was struck by the environment. I loved climbing on the rocks with the surf by the lighthouse. Going out as far as you can walk. Something about the danger drew you close?
As a city kid coming to rural Maine, the freedom to be on your own was what was exciting. There were moments when I loved the ‘otherness’ in this film the way I loved the children traveling on the river in Night of the Hunter.
Yes. I love that film.
Which makes me ask, to what extent is this a continental film shot in Maine?
Maris Curran, Director “Five Nights in Maine is Curran’s first feature film. Previously, she exhibited her short films at film festivals and galleries across the world. Curran’s recent short, MARGARITA, premiered internationally at the Huesca International Film Festival in Spain, in the US at the HBO NY Latino Film Festival, and in San Francisco at Cinema by the Bay. Maris uses film to delve into the drama of the everyday and to tell stories that take on challenging issues such as race, disability, illness and sexuality. She received a BA from Smith College and an MFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, where she received a Princess Grace Award for her thesis film. Maris also participated in the Whitney Museum of American Art’s Independent Study Program and was a Fulbright Fellow. She is currently developing her second feature, SELENE.” –FilmRise Productions
october 2016 67
I think it definitely has a European sensibility. What does that mean? The pacing is different. Because Europe has funds for films that seem not to be as commercially viable as something you’d associate with Hollywood, there’s a wider breath of emotional themes you can work with. How do you direct Diane Wiest? She’s a most convincing Mainer.
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After shooting, where’d you all go to have fun?
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Spinney’s quite a lot. We mostly ate in and around set. We stayed in a series of cabins in Phippsburg. I think many of our Maine memories surround the house.
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That unnerving white frame house where Lucinda lives seems to stare at you. It’s perfect. Inside it, Lucinda and Sherwin grapple with, and negotiate, their differences, their separate loneliness, their respective rights to grief. At some moments, it nearly reaches a kind of…intimacy. Not all the way to a taboo, but outside the usual.
I think that reflects my understanding of the human condition. There is intimacy in that relationship between Sherwin and his mother-in-law. A grieving woman over 65 has a present sexuality, and she does. It’s not the kind of thing we’re used to talking about. She hasn’t had a man in the house in a long time. Feeling a man’s tingly presence is part of the truth of the experience. It’s not racy subject matter. It’s real. I was watching Hush, Hush, Sweet Charlotte over the
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Cinema weekend. Agnes Moorehead looks after Bette Davis as a buffer between Bette and the rest of the world. And I thought, ‘Rosie Perez’! What a great job she does in Five Nights In Maine!
I think she is the heart of the film. She has to walk on eggshells around these two grieving people who are in incredible pain. As Lucinda’s nurse–beyond the patient she’s caring for–she wants to see this grieving man who comes in is also at ease. Rosie is a very serious actor. Incredibly intelligent. To prepare for her role, we talked about the ways she can be a part of the family. The film is more artistic because it doesn’t have an easy ending. Were there alternate endings?
This is how I wanted the film to end. It’s not a film that’s coming to answers. It’s a film about exploring. I want to go on this emotional journey with this one man. We know he’s going to be okay. If you were to yelp Maine as a place to shoot films but wanted us to learn something for the future, what comment would you give?
Well, we had a tremendous experience
shooting in Maine. As we were preparing, many people suggested we shoot the film in upstate New York. Even though the incentive was lower in Maine, nobody regretted doing it. We worked with a great local crew. We didn’t even have cell phone service for
a lot of the shoot, so everything got even closer. It was intimate. Five Nights in Maine is available for rent in HD on Amazon Video for $4.99, or for purchase for $6.99. The DVD will be released on Nov. 9 on Amazon.com for $24.95.
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interview With
Jared Martin Director of
The Congressman
T
he 2016 Washington Post story grabbed readers with, “This ex-congressman wrote a movie about a disillusioned congressman.” You know Monhegan Island because you’ve spent a lifetime of summers on it. It made sense that you’d direct the movie where the main character finds love, and recovers his sense of self, on Monhegan Island. But former rep. U.S. rep Bob Mrazek (D-NY) is a longtime summer resident on Monhegan, too, and he wrote the screenplay. How did The Congressman come about?
Bob is producer, co-director, fund raiser, post-production supervisor and chief cook and bottle washer. The production company that made the film was created by him, just as the actual story has parallels in his life. As a former five-term representative from Long Island, he knew the practical and emotional core of the main
7 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Synopsis:
Newly divorced, attacked by corrupt lobbyists and betrayed by a member of his staff, a Maine Congressman (Treat Williams) finds his life spiraling out of control until he is able regain his sense of purpose through the example of rugged and self-reliant constituents fighting to save their way of life on a remote island.
Starring: Treat Williams, Elizabeth Marvel,Ryan Merrimen Maine locations: Monhegan Island, Rockland, Rockport, and Augusta. character, Charlie Winship. The moods and pulls, the waiting in airports, the strain on normal relationships, the devastating effect on more intimate relationships. He experienced the emotional triage that comes with ignoring something important in order to pursue something essential. The Congressman was basically his story and could not have been written by anyone else.
Little White Head, a special place in Cathedral Wood). Familiarity was a big part of the advantage Bob Mrazek and I had in location scouting. We knew where the good places were because we’d been walking them for years. Our cinematographer Joe Arcidiacano quickly grasped the potential of the island.
The Monhegan visuals are dazzling. Nature provides the special effects.
Treat is a pro. He’s able to add ideas on the fly and improvise lines and situations. He has layers he hasn’t used yet, and he found some of them playing Charlie in The Congressman. While he was on the island, he
I’ve photographed Monhegan for over 30 years, and some shots I just knew would work for the film (the Wreck, Burnt Head,
What was it like directing Treat Williams? It’s a strong outing. Did he like Maine?
Cinema stayed by himself in a cottage on the way to the Mostel house. He’s a pilot and had his plane stashed in the Rockland airport, and he’d take it up occasionally. He hiked around the island in his spare time. He was completely invested in the production. I think he gave one of his best performances in a long career. I think he does, too.
building was filled with echoes and ambient noise.
There are two couples in the show. Can you tell us about how that dynamic drives the plot?
Was it expensive or a bargain to film on Monhegan? Please explain some of the challenges…
If Charlie hadn’t accepted Rae’s dinner invitation, he’d have been off the island when the boat exploded. He’d have heard about it, but probably, in the press of other business, not dealt with it personally. He’s a congressman, not a sheriff. The character of Jared is unwrapped by meeting Ben. Finding a kindred soul helps him succumb to the siren call of the island and step outside his rigid me-first personality. He grows through meeting Ben. Charlie finds a life in meeting Rae.
from laeft: courtesy Catatonk Blues LLC; LPSIR; jared martin
It must have been a pleasure contrasting Washington D.C. and Monhegan Island, with great compression in D.C. (indoors, with tense dialogue) and release on Monhegan…
It has to do with what you point the camera at. Washington D.C. and Monhegan Island are antithetical in so many ways; architecture, clothing, transportation, nature, social mores, climate… We concentrated on the island for the first part of the schedule, realizing that would be the important part of the story: The people who live there grow up, take on a profession, marry people they know, and live their lives almost as if they were in a small English village. It was helpful to be able to cast locals in smaller parts and use real lobster boats and houses that were lived in, with chairs that creaked when you sat in them. The statehouse in Augusta was designed by the same architect who created the Capitol in Washington D.C. Those scenes were shot on the last two days. We dashed through the halls avoiding tourists, and at one point almost tripped over the Governor. The last shot in the film was George Hamilton in his bathrobe, making a call to Ryan Merriman. The scene takes place at dawn but was shot at dusk; the light was leaving the sky and equipment was being packed quietly and loaded into vans. Much of the dialogue from this part of the film was dubbed in post production, as the
istration). Inasmuch as it was possible to administer Zero, he must have done a halfway decent job because the two men remained good friends to the end.
The forests and cliffs were free, the birds and other wildlife didn’t mind being in the frame, the library and schoolhouse were available for a donation. Once we left the island and got to the mainland we paid full freight.
I
I loved Josh Mostel’s rant.
’ve known Josh for more than half my life. It would’ve been impossible not to cast him, as he’s perfect for the part; and when you cast Josh you get the rant…[My father, the New Yorker cover artist] Charlie Martin and Zero Mostel first came together as two young painters in the early 1930s, both broke and living by their wits and talents. In the mid 1930s, Charlie became Zero’s administrator for the Henry Street Settlement of the WPA (Works Projects Admin-
Elizabeth Marvel, a native Californian, convincingly plays a pensive Maine woman on island time. How’d you direct her into being one of us?
She needed no direction; she was already there. She had the accent down and the attitude and the spirit. Aside from a day or two of rehearsal before principal photography, we had no time for fine tuning and minute adjustments, motivations, intentions, etc. The actors became their characters and wore them through the entire shoot like they would a suit of clothes. Elizabeth never made a wrong move. The basketball game was a surprise–brutal, violent, risky. It wins the audience over because it’s a daring move. Did that evolve during shooting?
The scene was in the script from the start; placed there for precisely the reasons you stipulate: contrast, physicality, strong competitive coloration for Charlie, and a metaphor for the brutal seriousness of politics in Washington.
Journey to Monhegan
Manhattan-born Jared Martin has always been active on both sides of the camera. The son of Charles E. Martin, legendary for painting decades of New Yorker magazine covers, and Monhegan artist Florence Taylor, Jared has enjoyed summer idylls at the Martins’ family cottage (above right) on Monhegan Island for decades. At Columbia University, his roommate was Brian De Palma. Jared apprenticed at Joe Papp’s Shakespeare in the Park. His break came in the 1970s in the cult classic Westworld. “He is best known for his role as Steven “Dusty” Farlow, son of Clayton Farlow and boyfriend of Sue Ellen Ewing in the mega-hit Dallas. During and after Dallas he alternated between living in Rome starring in European films; and New York where he studied under Lee Strasberg [and] performed in Broadway’s ‘Torch Song Trilogy.’ In 1988 he relocated to Toronto to star in the TV version of War of the Worlds as Dr. Harrison Blackwood… He [has] personally directed over 30 films, garnering awards from Cine Eagle, Intercom, and the Chicago International Film Festival.”–IMDB october 2016 71
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Cine m a
Treat Williams as Charlie Winship and Elizabeth Marvel as Rae Blanchard
George Hamilton
in Maine and was in very poor condition.
George Hamilton is a perfect villain. How did Mr. California take to Maine? Screenwriter Robert Mrazak, former fiveterm congressman from Long Island, New York, answers:
G
Catatonk Blues LLC
eorge Hamilton was a delight to work with both personally and professionally, a self-deprecating raconteur with the story telling flair of David Niven. When he arrived in Augusta, Maine, to shoot the “Washington” scenes, I went to meet him at the motel our production coordinator had arranged for him. I was horrified when I got there. While Treat was staying at the Samoset in Rockland, George had been booked into a motel between a dilapidated strip mall and a big-box store. It smelled of disinfectant
I expected him to be as appalled as I was. Instead he responded to my apology by saying, “Don’t worry, Bob. I’ve stayed in a lot worse places.” George was brilliant in his scenes, particularly the seduction scene with Ryan Merriman in the Congressman’s D.C. office. We ruined several takes because Jared, Treat, and I were laughing so hard. When I expressed my appreciation that he’d come all the way from LA on a coach ticket to shoot his two day’s worth of scenes, he said, “I’ll tell you why I’m here. I’ve had many ups and downs in my career. One of the times it was in the doldrums and I didn’t have anything good in the works, I answered the phone one morning and it was Fred Roos on the line. He said, “Bobby Duvall isn’t going to play Al Pacino’s consigliere role in Godfather III. I want you for the part.”
Has Brian De Palma seen The Congressman? When you were roommates at Columbia, did the two of you have any inkling you might both direct?
We matriculated at Columbia but spent more time at Sarah Lawrence in Bronxville which had a fully outfitted film and theater department plus female actors hard to come by at Columbia. We made a series of short films. He directed, I acted. My directing came later. We worked with primitive equipment like a crank reel Bolex with a 100-foot magazine and reflector boards. From the start Brian gathered special talent around him such as Bob DeNiro, Jill Clayburgh and William Finley…Brian saw and liked The Congressman, thought it was well filmed and solidly acted. At that time we were getting a lot of over-the-top advice from folks in Hollywood who wanted to see more explosions and love scenes. Brian advised us to believe in what we’d done, cautioning us that everyone in the business wants to load you down with ideas that never seemed to work for them when they made their films. Words like this from a famous director helped steady the ship at an important time in post-production. n The Congressman is available for rent in HD from Amazon Video for $4.99 or to purchase for $14.99. The DVD is available at Bull Moose for $9.97. octob e r 2 0 1 6 7 3
Brew Masters of the Universe
From the spark of an idea to a fully fledged business, The Bissell Brothers haven’t just created a brewery, they’ve created a cult following.
M
B y Ol i v i a G un n
y brother-in-law first tasted what he now considers “the nectar of the gods”–Bissell Brothers’ Substance IPA–during his trip to Maine last summer. It wasn’t long after that our entire family vacation seemed to be scheduled around one Maine brewery. Forget lighthouses. Who needs lobster rolls? We’ve got to get to Bissell. “You’re going to wake up to go stand in line? For beer?” my mother asked us. “I
7 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
don’t get it. You don’t like good beer.” But the real question is, even if you “like” good beer, maybe you even “love” good beer, are you prepared to wait in line for it? Once, band shirts from Nirvana to Zeppelin declared your cultural allegiance. Today in Portland we adorn ourselves–and define ourselves–with apparel from our chosen brewery. From T-shirts to bumper stickers –one brewery employee even boasts a
trends
from left: Peter Jensen Bissell (4); courtesy weakened friends
three staff has expanded to 17 employees. While we know the key to success isn’t that simple, you’ve got to admit, they make it look effortless. Today the brothers seem right at home in their new 7,500-foot space at Thompson’s Point, currently Maine’s largest tasting room. Taproom Hostess Samantha has been with Bissell since the relocation to Thompson’s Point in June and says the brothers knew the move to an old industrial lot would be “taking a big chance.” However, over the summer she’s seen “lines extend past Circus Maine, out the parking lot, and over the railroad tracks.” But Peter Bissell isn’t surprised by the swarms of beer pilgrims lining up outside. He admits that he himself would do the same. “Beer tourism is now a thing–and Portland is certainly known for its beer. I’ve waited for beer, food, memorable experiences. Good things are worth waiting for.” However, when questioned, he shies away from acknowledging the hype that surrounds the brewery. “Truthfully, we have paid almost no attention to how popular or unpopular we are, in Maine or otherwise, because it’s all relative. Each day we are just trying to make better beer and deliver a better and more memorable customer experience.” An admirable sentiment, but it’s hard to believe that the fervent following has gone unnoticed by the shrewd business mind behind the Bissell brand.
tattoo–there is none more recognizable than the three-B triad of the Bissell Brothers logo (think Illuminati, but less covert). “It started with us giving shirts to friends while we were building the company,” says business manager and elder of the two brother Peter Bissell, 33. “We liked that the shirts didn’t say anything on the front, it just showed the design. It was like a secret club.” For a brewery that’s a little over three years old, Peter (above right) and younger brother and head brewer Noah Bissell, 26 (above left), have proven to be as much the masters of their brand as of their brew. The numbers add up, too. Bissell has doubled production in the past year alone, and their starting crew of
T
he Thompson’s Point space is the brothers’ very own Mount Olympus where, in their words, they “spend every day trying to get better, and treat every opportunity to give this beer to the people of Maine every week as the gift that it is.” The demand for this smallbatch “gift” frequently outstrips supply. The brewery shares its weekly release schedule in
“Truthfully, we have paid almost no attention to how popular or unpopular we are, in Maine or otherwise, because it’s all relative.”
Brews & Beats Boston rockers (and our cover stars) Weakened Friends celebrated their EP launch in style at Bissell Brothers tasting room in August. “The things they believe in as a company and what we do as a band are very similar,” says lead singer Sonia (above center). “We both have fun with what we do. It was hands down one of our best nights: the beer was on point and the crowd was having a great time.” The band even filmed a promo video for the event that saw band members pouring cans of Bissell over their heads. “Our favorite brews are Swish, Nothing Gold, and Reciprocal.”
advance with the ready and poised public. Purchases are limited to four packs of each beer per customer to try and create an even distribution. Regardless, they sell out quickly. My kinsmen arrive at Thompson’s Point around 10:30 a.m. to a surprisingly bare parking lot, but it’s not long before the beer zealots begin to flock. “Don’t these guys have work?” asks my uncle. During one exchange, a selfproclaimed beer connoisseur who resembles a member of ZZ Top asks my cousin, “What do you drink?” Not taking the man’s worldly beer palate into account, he answers, “You know, Corona.” With obvious dismay, the high priest of beer responds, “What are you doing here then?” And that, my friends, seems to be an attitude the Bissells themselves would shun no matter what list they make or at least, I hope they would. Because at the end of the day, a beer is a beer. The family returns from their pilgrimage donning Bissell Brothers apparel and bearing glad coolers of joy. Was it the Mecca they’d imagined and more? Let’s just say, the brothers now have a small following in Bedford, PA whether they meant to or not. n october 2016 75
H u n gry Ey e
Veggie Visionaries
Moira Quinn
“Call any vegetable and the chances are, a vegetable will respond to you.” –Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention.
Y
ou know it’s autumn by the chill in the air and the heartbreakingly clear daylight. Maine’s beautiful potatoes are everywhere. But thanks to savvy farmers, eager chefs, and consumer demand, the local harvest brings new surprises every year.
By Clair e Z. Cramer
SERIOUSLY LOCAL If you’re still moping about the end of the summer tomatoes and corn, you need only talk to David Levi to forget all about them. “I love fall produce, and there are a few crops I’m pretty much dying for,” says Levi, chef-owner of the strictly-local Vinland
in Congress Square. “One of my favorites is radicchio.” Clearly, this is radicchio’s year. Vinland serves it “roasted with potato, rosemary, garlic, potato, and extra-sharp Buggy Whip cheddar from Sonnenthal Farm. It’s total comfort food. “There’s a brief window in the fall when we october 2016 77
Hungry Eye
–David Levi
Turmeric-infused cocktail
get our full yearly supply of ginger, turmeric, and coriander, all of which are incredibly powerful and surprising flavors. Coriander is just the seed from cilantro, so a farmer friend of mine lets his cilantro go to seed and delivers us bags of green coriander seeds, which are even more delicious than the best dried seeds I’ve had. Coriander is the key seasoning for our mussels. It occasionally shows up on our raw beef, and it’s in our bar program. “We put cranberries to use all year, but it’s very exciting to get fresh ones, and I hear it’s a big year for them. We make a cranberry and ginger compote for our cheese plate that people rave about. “As we start getting some real frost in the ground, the parsnips turn very sweet and all the root crops reach their peak, including beets, carrots, and celeriac. Those sweet parsnips, along with the turmeric and ginger, combine to make my favorite dessert, our parsnip custard. I sneak a bite after service pretty much every night we have it available. We serve sunchokes with monkfish. Cold weather also brings out the best in cabbage. We’re brewing up some really good sauerkraut. “Then there are the wild mushrooms. Hen of the woods, chicken mushrooms, hedgehog mushrooms, matsutake. Fall is the best season for wild mushrooms, which are by far my favorite targets for foraging. It’s hard to find time to get into the woods, but you can bet I’ll be out there when the hens start popping out. We use some cultivated, but there’s nothing like the wild stuff.” Levi’s enthusiasm is catching. “I hardly know where to begin with squash, I love it so much. I’ll just say this. Somebody in Maine should really do what Stony Brook 7 8 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
does in New York and make delicious, Austrian-style squash seed oil.” ITALIAN TRADITION “For me, Northern Italian food is suited for the fall and winter months,” says Scott London, chef at the new wine bar Rossobianco tucked into the West End’s Bramhall Square. “Much of the cuisine is based on rich dishes with butter and cheese–very comforting in the cooler months.” Rossobianco, cozy with cappuccino-colored walls and a hand-built wooden bar and wine racks, is co-owned by David Levi and Colleen Callahan. Local produce, meat, and seafood are used to fashion Northern Italian dishes, but the wine list is international. London quit a job at Bath Iron Works to attend the Auguste Escoffier Culinary School in Boulder, Colorado. He later staged (apprenticed) at two restaurants in the Fri-
S
ure enough, on a recent visit, the featured arancini were con funghi–rich and earthy with oyster mushrooms and Grana Padano cheese, and just the thing with a glass of Costieres de Nimes chardonnay. Crostini topped with hake rillettes were another seamless fusion of sustainable local fish with continental preparation. “An herb that screams fall is sage. Sage, winter squash, and brown butter is simplicity at its best.” FEAST FOR THE SENSES “Cooking with the seasons is a real adventure,” says chef Ben Jackson at Drifter’s Wife wine bar on Washington Avenue. He sums it up: “The pure pleasure of tasting something for the first time in a year is real. “I find inspiration in the moment. It’s
Meg Mitchell of South Paw Farm and her locally grown radicchio, left.
from top: courtesy vinland; meaghan maurice (2)
“Those sweet parsnips, along with the turmeric and ginger, combine to make my favorite dessert, our parsnip custard. I sneak a bite after service pretty much every night we have it available. “
uli region in northeastern Italy, where he learned the tenets of the cuisine. “The colder the water gets here, the better the shellfish get. A nice steaming bowl of cozze (mussels) and perhaps seared capesante (scallops) are definite. Squash and mushroom soups are fantastic in the fall. We love mushrooms, and we use the arancini (fried balls of risotto) to really showcase that flavor profile. Hearty grains also go great with mushrooms and with savory herbs such as rosemary and thyme.”
ITALIAN PIRATE FOOD Bold seafood and pasta dishes descended from those eaten by the famed pirates and explorers of Genoa, Italy, birthplace of pesto. Solo Italiano’s Genovese menu boasts freshly made pasta, locally sourced seafood, and Best in the World pesto. Soloitalianorestaurant.com
207-780-0227
100 Commercial Street
october 2016 79
Hungry Eye
FARMERS’ KNACK “We start pulling out our tomato vines right after Labor Day,” says Austin Chadd, who
owns Green Spark Farm in Cape Elizabeth with his wife, Mary Ellen. Their stunning organic summer produce can be found at Portland’s Wednesday farmer’s market in Monument Square, and on Saturdays in Deering Oaks Park. They also wholesale to such restaurants as Hugo’s, the Honey Paw, and East Ender. “We turn our summer tunnels over into fall greens–spinach, kale, lettuce.” There’s no need to resort to frozen vegetables in the winter. The Chadds, like many Maine farmers, grow year-round in greenhouse “tunnels,” or hoop houses, which protect produce from harsh weather. “We sell at the winter market [once the outdoor markets move indoors to Cove Street on Saturdays around December 1]. “We made it to 51 of 52 Saturday markets last year.”
Scott London, head chef at Rossobianco 8 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
M
eg Mitchell has eight hoop houses at her South Paw Farm in Freedom. “We’re into winter storage crops–carrots, cabbage, beets, potatoes. Squash is a lower yield this year because of the drought, but we have some sweet mini-buttercups, delicatas, and sugar dumplings. We’ve got orange, yellow, and white pumpkins. What I’m really excited about for autumn is radicchio–I’ve got four kinds this year.” Her suggestion for this leafy red chicory that she grows in both oblong and round, lettuce-shaped heads? “I like to cut it in wedges and toss it with olive oil, honey, and a little balsamic vinegar and roast it.” Of course, not all growers want to extend their season. “I don’t have any greenhouses,” says Bruce Hinck of Meadowood Farm in Yarmouth. “In the winter, I read. Our fall crops are one last set of lettuce and plenty of onions, squashes, and pumpkins.” His assortment of onions is dazzling. Hinck’s other specialty is garlic. He sets out bushel baskets of a dozen types labeled with the name and playful description of each. And don’t forget about local mushrooms. North Spore sells baskets of the shiitake, hen-of-the-woods, and oyster mushrooms they cultivate in the Dana Warp Mill in Westbrook, plus a few shaggy Chagas and orange lobster mushrooms they forage. If you’re timid about handling fancy mushrooms, the North Spore guys are there for you. “Don’t be shy about how much butter you throw in the pan,” says grower Kevin Bassett. Brown them up, maybe deglaze with a little wine, throw in some cream, maybe some fresh herb like thyme. Simmer it up, turn off the heat, and let the mushrooms steep for a few minutes. Toss it with pasta, and it’s awesome.” Oh autumn, how we love you. n
clockwise from top: Meaghan Maurice(3); Colleen callahan
about place and time for me, making new dishes and calling on the past to guide me. I love alliums and [exploring] the nuances of garlic. Roasted garlic on everything, please.” The North Carolina native came to Portland via Brooklyn, where he worked with Drifter’s owners, Peter and Orenda Hale. His oneperson minimalist “kitchen” is in plain sight next to the bar–a nook with just two burners and a small convection oven. “I love bitter greens, especially radicchio and chicory. I love bright, crisp, lightly blanched collard greens and winter squash. I love making chicken liver mousse and seeing people enjoy it. Put it in a ravioli with rosemary and brown butter… It’s a no-brainer.” Serious about his sources, Jackson buys his seafood from Harbor Fish Market and Browne Trading and his chicken livers from Serendipity Acres in North Yarmouth, known for spectacularly tasty organic poultry. When we catch up with Serendipity’s owner Jules Fecteau at the Saturday farmers market to see what’s new in October, she smiles and her eyes twinkle. “We’re finalizing our Thanksgiving orders–we’ve raised a lot more turkeys this year.”
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Gift Guide
Young Sleuths Budding adventurers will devour the story of Cooper and Packrat and their investigative exploits in Maine. Mystery on Pine Lake (Islandport Press, $12.95), written by Tamra Wight and illustrated by Carl DiRocco, is sure keep young readers absorbed until the last page.
The Gift List Get ready…the holidays season is on the horizon. From Sta ff & wire Report s
From sea to sofa
photos courtesy of each proprietor; background image by micah schwartz
Bring a touch of nauticalia to your couch. Handmade and hand-painted in Munro, Maine, these colorful cushions can be personalized to your preference. Buy your Maine Lobster Buoy Pillows at cobaltskystudio.com. $38 per cushion.
Hidden Gems It’s easy if you try
For the dreamers among us comes the More & Co “Imagine” sweatshirt, $60. Cozy up in the cooler weather and represent your favorite state without looking like a tourist. alittlemorelikethis.com
Kristiann Frank bring her New Mexican aesthetic to Portland through her handcrafted jewelry and homewares. Adorn yourself with the chunky Taos Cuff ($280), made from silver and boulder opal. saltgrassjewelry.com
October 2016 83
Gift Guide
Blueberries for All
It’s what inside that counts…but the cute packaging doesn’t hurt either. This Wild Maine Blueberry Jam ($9.95) from The Stonewall Kitchen is made from native berries that will make the holiday season even sweeter. Visit Stonewall Kitchen in Portland, Camden, and York. n
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Everyday Sommelier
Tell Me You Didn’t
Everybody looks good in a shirt that fits perfectly.
Pairing is caring. B y R a l p h H ers om
I
have sat at a sushi bar and cringed while diners next to me sipped a glass of red wine with their raw fish. Some rules are not made to be broken. Here are some of the guidelines, and cardinal sins, to consider when serving wine with a meal.
☞ First up, the basics: White wine should al-
ways be served before red wine. Dry wines are always served before sweet wines.
DAVID WOOD CLOTHIERS
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☞ When serving spicy foods, offset the spice
with a wine–white, of course!–that has a sweetness to it, as this helps to cool the fire in your mouth. A 2015 Dr. L Riesling from Germany is a reliable go-to for this occasion.
☞ White wine with fish and red wine with
meat is the accepted norm. However, there are certain instances when you could break this rule. The protein is not always the deciding factor but rather the preparation of the protein and what, if any, sauce accompanies it. Broiled brook trout with bacon and vinegar sauce goes well with a light red such as the 2011 Pascal Granger Beaujolais-Villages, whereas a glass of 2014 Acrobat Pinot Gris would complement cider-glazed pork tenderloin stuffed with apples and cranberries.
☞ Red wine does not pair with chocolate.
Forget, it folks–it just doesn’t! Instead, reach for a glass of Banyuls, a Grenache-based fortified wine from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. A simple ruby port such as Fonseca Bin 27 is also a safe choice.
☞ When pairing wine with dessert, remember
Craig john
that the wine must always be sweeter than the dessert on offer in order to keep the delicious flavors in harmony. One of the all-time worst pairings is serving Brut Champagne with cake. ‘Dry Champagne and sweet cake’ is a disaster. Instead, a 2015 Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui will pair beautifully with a rich chocolate-andraspberry cake. n
Ralph Hersom is a sommelier and the new Category Manager of wine, beer, spirits, and tobacco for Hannaford Supermarkets.
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hile researching FrancoAmerican women authors, I’ve discovered a significant talent who worked tirelessly on behalf of the deaf community. Born in 1881, Corinne Rocheleau Rouleau lost her hearing at age nine in Massachusetts. She was sent to a convent school in Montreal to learn how to live and communicate in her newly silent world. In her astonishing writing, Corinne dared to crash past her impaired hearing to effect change in the world of the deaf and beyond. In Crossing the Divide–Representations of Deafness in Biography, Rachel M. Hartig singles out Corinne’s important biographical studies surrounding the French heroines who immigrated to New France. “The deaf French biographer attempted to cross the cultural divide between deaf and hearing worlds through [her] work.” Corinne’s startling literary contributions include Those in The Dark Silence and Hors de sa Prison, which she penned to advocate for and to bring awareness to the issues surrounding the lives of deaf FrancoAmericans. Corinne went on to celebrate the pioneering efforts of the first female settlers in New France in her one-act play Françaises d’Amérique, Frenchwomen of North America. Her writing breaches the double divide of deafness and the French/ English language barrier faced by the first women living in North America. Thanks to her courage, we hear her even now. n
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Rhea Côté Robbins the author of ‘down the Plains,’ and an editor of Heliotrope-French Heritage Women Create october 2016 89
Dining Guide Anthony’s Italian Kitchen, offers homemade Italian cooking using the freshest ingredients, featuring favorites such as pizza, pasta,and sandwiches. Voted “Best in Portland” for three years. Dine-in and catering services on offer. Beer and wine available. Open 11-8 Mon. through Sat. 151 Middle St #5, Portland; and new location Cumberland County Courthouse, 205 Newbury St. anthonysitaliankitchen.com, 774-8668.
Bayside American Café (formerly Bintliff’s) owned and run by Joe & Diane Catoggio since 2003. The menu includes delicious items like house-made smoked salmon, corned beef hash, crab cakes, sandwiches, salads, Benedicts, and more. Come and discover why customers love Bayside American Café. Breakfast, brunch, and lunch are served daily starting at 7 a.m. 98 Portland St., Portland, 774-0005 baysideamericancafe.com. Bueno Loco offers a unique Mexican experience in Falmouth. We use only the freshest ingredients and make the best house-infused margaritas! Open daily for lunch and dinner. Happy hour 4-6 p.m.. Live music Thursdays 6-9 pm. Kids’ menu. Dine in or take out. Plenty of free parking! View our full menu at buenoloco.net. 240 U.S. Rt. 1, Falmouth, 619-7057.
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Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the Tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511.
Bull Feeney’s Authentic Irish pub & restaurant, serving delicious from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, seafood & hearty Irish fare, pouring local craft & premium imported brews, as well as Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music five nights. Open 7 days, 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m. 375 Fore St., Old Port, 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com. Crooners & Cocktails Dine in style surrounded by the sounds of Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin at our supper club throwback. Enjoy traditional American cuisine, classic cocktails, and great music celebrating a classic era. Open 6 days a week for dinner Tues.-Sat. 4 p.m.-1 a.m. and Sunday brunch 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. 90 Exchange St., Portland. 536-0469, croonersandcocktails.com. DiMillo’s Now through December, relax and enjoy Head Chef Melissa Bouchard’s masterful creations. Every day, she offers something new and delicious. Try our Early Dinner Specials, Monday-Friday or our wonderful Port Side Lounge, Portland’s getaway for grown-ups. Happy Hour includes special menu Monday-Friday, 4-7p.m. Open daily at 11a.m., Commercial St., Old Port. Always FREE PARKING while aboard. 772-2216. El Rodeo, an incredibly authentic Mexican
Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic ll Feeney’s u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS
9 0 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
Restaurant Review Restaurant and Bar, is locally-owned and familyoperated at their convenient South Portland location. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Tableside guacamole, sizzling fajitas, delicious margaritas, and live Latin music are to be enjoyed. See Facebook for daily specials. 147 Western Ave., South Portland, 773-8851 Eve’s at the Garden, an oasis of calm and great food in the Old Port. Perfect for meetings and special occasions. Ingredients from Maine’s waters and farms. The seasonal Ice Bar is ideal for outdoor dining. Happy Hour Mon. - Fri.; free valet parking. Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. 468 Fore St., Portland, 775-9090, evesatthegarden.com
Hurricane Restaurant Enjoy New England cuisine with a modern twist, local seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list. In-house desert chef, river views. Sunday Brunch with make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Entertainment Saturday nights. Celebrating our 25th year! Good restaurants come and go, great restaurants get better and better. Open 7 days. 29 Dock Sq., Kennebunkport, 207-967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com J’s Oyster is a premier seafood destination and locals’ favorite with indoor and outdoor waterfront seating on one of Portland’s scenic piers. Established in 1977, J’s offers classic favorites and friendly service. Coastal Living claimed J’s one of “America’s Best Seafood Dives 2016.” Find us on Facebook. 772-4828
Kon Asian Bistro Steakhouse & Sushi Bar serves Asian cuisine with modern flair. Japanese, Sushi, Thai, Chinese, or hibachi tables. Private party rooms accommodates groups from business meetings to birthday parties. Choose fresh, delicious items prepared before your table. Family friendly; open Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. to 11 p.m., Sat. 1 p.m-11 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. 874-0000, konasianbistrome.com.
Maria’s Ristorante is Portland’s original classic Italian Restaurant. Greg and Tony Napolitano are always in house preparing classics like Zuppa de Pesce, Eggplant Parmigian, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato, Limoncello Cake, and Maine’s Best Meatballs. Prices $11.95 - $22.95. Tue.-Sat. starting at 5 p.m. Catering always available. 337 Cumberland Ave. 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com. Pedro’s focuses on simple yet full-flavored Mexican and Latino food. Offering tacos, burritos and an impressive array of margaritas, sangria, beer, and wine. Especiales de la semana (specials of the week) keep the menu varied and fresh and showcase different Latino cultures. Seasonal outdoor dining available. Open daily, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m. 181 Port Rd., Kennebunk, 967-5544, pedrosmaine.com.
A Dash of Spice Red Sea whisks authentic Ethiopian cuisine to hungry Forest City diners.
R
By Dia ne Hudso n
ed Sea splashes onto Washington Avenue as we enter to find bright yellow walls and taverna-style tables covered in white linen. We begin with tapas-style starter plates, opting first for falafel ($5, below). Served steaming hot, the chickpea patties radiate intricately balanced spices, herbs, and a de-
meaghan maurice and diane hudson
Pier 77 & The Ramp Bar & Grill Pier 77 has a formal dining room with stunning views of Cape Porpoise Harbor & live music each weekend, while the Ramp is more casual, with its own bar menu at hard-to-beat prices. Open year-round. 77 Pier Rd., Kennebunkport, 967-8500, pier77restaurant.com * Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill An upscale sports bar serving creative pub food in a fun and comfortable atmosphere. Known for some of Portland’s best casual food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. And with 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Located in Portland’s historic Old Port. 774-6044, rivalriesmaine.com
Solo Italiano Traditional northern Italian cuisine mixes Maine freshness with Genovese flavor frm international chef Paolo Laboa. Enjoy the crudo bar or the daily changing menu. Included in Food & Wine Magazine’s 2016 “What to Do in Portland, ME.” Open daily 5 p.m–10 p.m. 100 Commercial Street Portland, 780-0227, soloitalianorestaurant.com *reservations recommended
cent kick of garlic. Next up, sambusas ($5, above right). We devour tasty pastry triangles filled with seasoned ground beef (or chicken or lentils as desired), served with a zesty citrus hummus. Entrées arrive family style, in true Ethiopian tradition. The sampler plate (meat $30, vegetarian, $26) serves 2-3 diners, or you can order separate entrées presented together, as we did. After much deliberation, we choose a plate of yebeg alicha ($15), deeply flavorful
cubes of tender lamb stewed with potatoes, carrots, peppers, curry, and alluring spices. The Eritrean-style spicy haddock stew ($13) delights with delicately textured chunks of fresh fish bathed in an exotic sauce. Most satisfyingly, the entrees arrive heaped upon a huge platter of injera, a spongy sourdough bread made from “teff,” a gluten-free flour surrounded colorfully by red lentils, kale, and fresh green salad. Four extra rolls of the delicious injera bread garnish four corners of the plate. The traditional method invites you to eat without utensils, breaking off pieces of the flatbread to scoop up the food–the sensation is freeing. Libations at Red Sea are limited, especially beer. You’ll find bottles of Heineken and Corona ($3.50), or Blue Moon ($4). A glass of Dark Horse Chardonnay ($5) also proves a worthwhile pairing to the fragrant dishes on offer. However, for a real treat, sample the traditional coffee ($3.75). Individually and freshly brewed, it’s a fitting accompaniment to the only dessert (and it is stunning)–sweet, flaky parcels of baklava. Quick trip, memorable vacation. n Red Sea, 30 Washington Avenue, Portland. Wed. to Sat., 11.30 a.m.-9.30 p.m.; Mon. & Tues., 12-9.30 p.m. 805-1488 october 2 0 1 6 9 1
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House of the Month
Postcards from the Edge Perched high on the Western Prom, the home of Portland’s former mayor is an enticing slice of history.
keller williams/the hatcher group
H
andsome 261 Western Promenade was designed in 1902 by noted Portland architect Frederick A. Tompson for the Forest City’s mayor, Adam Leighton. Mayor Leighton was riding high at the time, having earned considerable wealth as an early manufacturing developer of color postcards. He was the founder of “the first big picture postcard business in the United States,” his granddaughter, the late Emily Niles of Tallahassee, Florida, told Portland Monthly in 1996. “He developed them in 1888 and made a fortune when they were debuted at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. My grandfather was a Republican who was against alcohol, so I remember our Christmases were dry.” Which is not to say they were boring. Emily recalled political rallies for her grand-
By Colin W. Sarg en t
father outside the house, where hundreds of Portlanders gathered on election eve. “They turned brooms upside down, and set them on fire. All my grandmother’s friends came in their little coupes with horses, to visit and to have tea. It was an entirely different, Victorian world.” Famous guests entertained here include Admiral Robert Peary, publishing million-
aire Cyrus Curtis, and Australian soprano Nellie Melba. Upon entering the 17-room mansion, guests are treated to original matching Baccarat chandeliers, capacious bay and bow windows with window seats, a walnut-paneled library, and one of the finest leadedglass and paneled dining rooms in Port-
October 2016 93
land, glowing with original murals painted in oil, possibly by the architect himself, who was a noted “Brussian,” a group of Portland-area amateur painters that included John Calvin Stevens. Stained-glass windows in the massive entryway, on the stair landing (set to the left to maximize the center hallway’s entertaining space), in the hallway, and in the billiard and powder rooms were recovered from Maine Medical Center’s basement, where they were stored when this house was a medical office.
T
he seller, Nick Nikazmeral, who has owned this seven-bedroom showcase since he purchased it from the Hartglass family, founders of Mr. Bagel, has 9 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
been an exacting curator with the highest standards and a voluminous historical folder on the house, complete with early photos and notes from multiple interviews. There is an updated chef’s kitchen with original butler’s pantry. The woodwork throughout the house has been cleaned and updated to perfect original standards by M.R. Brewer and Co. In a residence that is charming everywhere, two spots charm in particular. At one end of the billiard room, an original children’s stage in quarter-sawn oak awaits future performances. The third-
floor, with its exquisite views of Mt. Washington in winter and the Fore River yearround, boasts an Inglenook fireplace and a curved window seat with horsehair cushion. It will make cozy memories for all who are lucky enough to visit here. “We were spoiled,” Emily said. “We used to roller skate up there.” n Two hundred sixty-one Western Promenade is being offered by John Hatcher, owner of The Hatcher Group of Keller Williams Realty. The sale price is $1.675 million. Annual taxes: $15,667.84.
keller williams/the hatcher group
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259 MAIN STREET, KINGFIELD CSMREALESTATE.COM 207-265-4000 October 2016 99
“A Pure Pleasure”
- Maine Sunday Telegram
21mm
“A novel that captures 1920s Boston through the eye of a young Italian castrato seeking love.”
B o s to n C a s tr a to
The
Colin W. Sargent
R
affi left more than Rom e behind. Snipped by a bishop as a boy, he is bundled off to America when the Church takes shame Forbidden to use his . voice, he explores oth er gifts that steal him into the society of Boston’s gangsters, necromancers, and crew surrounding the the wild poet Amy Lowell as he searches for a gen love song. What E. uine L. Doctorow’s Ra gtim e did for New York, The Boston Castrato does for 1920s Bosto n.
In exuberant and yet precise prose, Colin Sargent conjures a sweeping tale of lov e, murder, and rev enge. - Ch ris tin a Bak er kli ne , #1 Ne w Yor k Tim es Bes tse lli ng au th or of or ph aN Tra iN.
Wicked shards of humor and sophis ticated, astonishing word play reminiscen t of James Joyce’s Ulysses make up the heart of this incand escent novel by Co lin Sargent. A rare book, one that wil l settle into the sou l for a lifetime. - Mo rg an Cal lan ro ge rs, au th or , red rub Y he arT iN a Col d blu e sea
From Barbican Press of London and Hull U.S. Launch October 2016 Available For Pre-Order From Amazon.co.uk
£9.99 / $17.95
Cover design : www.rawshock.co .uk
Colin W. sargent (www.colinwsargent.c om)
ISBN 978-1-9099
54-20-5
9 781909 95 4205
Fiction
St. Anthony’s
Illustration by sean Kruger
W
e’d been playing pretend for almost a year and he still wouldn’t go back to his life. Meade wouldn’t acknowledge he had another life at all, though he’d bring me into it in ways, mentioning how Cole seemed to like me, driving me by the horse farm where he and Cole and his wife had lived before the great domestic unraveling commenced and she moved out to Deer Isle. Testing, I suppose, fantasizing—feeling at the edges to see how I might be assimilated into his greater life. It was Saturday before my shift at the hospital. Meade was cleaning out my apartment cabinets and making lists of domestic goods he thought I needed. I found his possessiveness comforting, though I admitted that to no one. He said, “You need paper towels.” I said, “You have a wife who may or may not actually want a divorce.” He touched his ear with his thumb, just the quickest gesture. I prided myself on being able to recognize his myriad ticks. He could have been brushing away a fruit fly, for whatever I didn’t have, I had fruit flies. We’d tossed out all the produce weeks ago, and the flies still rose from the dark when we opened any drawer in the kitchen. A friend said to fill a mason jar an inch full with vinegar then make a funnel from a sheet of paper and slide the funnel into the jar. This paper chute was supposed to steer the flies to an acidic death. We filled the jar and it sat on the counter for a week next to a piece of plain white paper. Neither of us seemed able to roll and insert the killing device. Meade said, “You also need aluminum foil. Then we could save leftovers when we cook.”
By Gre g Bro wn
It happened like that a lot—something I needed subtly moved into something for both of us. “And a son,” I said. “You have a maybe wife and a son.” “New dishtowels, too,” he said. “Meade,” I said. The room was too quiet. I wished fruit flies made noise, like the blood-sluggish horse flies Meade had pointed out when he drove me to his horse ranch out beyond Lincolnville because he wanted to show me where he’d come from and where he still
was. “Where I’ll probably always be,” he said and ground a cigarette out in the gravel, going quiet under his moment of selfpity. “People see the ocean and think sailing and lobsters are all we’ve got. Truth is the midcoast has produced some damn fine race horses throughout history.” The wind moved across the land and rapped gravel against the fenders. I tried to imagine racehorses charging around these rolling pastures overlooking the sea. I don’t think Meade had anything in mind but to show me that road and that house and let me feel that wind and see those rocky pastures after months meshed together on my floor and in my bed. Cole would be getting out of school soon. He was the first one picked up in the mornings and the last one dropped off in the afternoons, and the bus ride home was exactly one hour long. That was one of about five facts Cole had shared with me the one time we’d met. Meade had called me at work and said, “Come to the Irving up the highway for lunch. I got a surprise.” The surprise turned out to be an eleven year old boy, shaggy blond hair squirting out from below a Portland Sea Dogs cap, drinking a Cherry Coke through a straw, and looking very little like his father, the man who was oblivious to the cruelty of such a surprise and whose face and body I knew too well—the small brown eyes edged at their corners with crow’s feet, the acne scars along his shoulders, the ankle he’d dislocated twice being tripped up on lobster boats and which popped when he stood after sitting for too long, the huge horse-halter calloused hands, the penis which he was self-conscious of and felt was small and was kind of small but didn’t mat-
October 2016 101
Fiction ter because it was something in his voice that aroused me, how he would tell me exactly what to do or what he wanted to do to me and look me directly in the eyes while doing it or asking for it. Cole told me the ride wasn’t so bad in the afternoons. He enjoyed watching the other kids climb off the bus. He liked waiting to see if they’d run up to their houses or skulk back with their heads hang-dog low, dreading it all.
I
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n January and February, Meade drove the half-mile down to the head of the farm road to meet the bus. “I walk it in December and March,” Cole said. “December and March aren’t really winter. Dad says they’re like the preamble and the postscript.” This winter I knew Meade was imagining me sitting beside him in the cab, waiting at the end of a dead gravel road for a boy who was not my own. “Meade,” I said now, “I have to go to work.” He closed the kitchen drawer and looked up at the window. We could see the brick side of St. Anthony’s with its red and gold stained glass windows. The clock on the church’s steeple face had been broken for two weeks now, and we spent a lot of afternoons speculating about when men would come with scaffolding to fix time. This was in between talking about when it would snow. Talking about that seemed easy still. Meade said it always snowed a little in November in Maine. “I’m saying what if I don’t want all this,” I said. He opened a cabinet and said, “It doesn’t change its being there.” Then I walked out of the apartment, leaving Meade with the fruit flies and the view of St. Anthony’s. I was going to walk until my feet felt as cold as Cole’s must have stomping down that ranch road in December and March. And when I got home from work, I knew I’d find Meade lying on the thick brown rug in the living room with his feet up on the couch. Sometimes he was so much like a confused boy I couldn’t look away from him. n
Greg Brown’s fiction has appeared in Shenandoah Literary, Epoch Magazine, and Narrative Magazine. A graduate of the Iowa Writers’ Workshop, he lives in western Maine with his daughter and his partner and is working on a novel about family mythology, native land and river rights, and a territorial lobstering feud. 1 0 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e
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October 2016 103
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