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My Madeleines

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Surprisingly Cold

Surprisingly Cold

We’re driving north on Route 1 in Cape Neddick, the downpour so strong that the cars passing us are furry with rain. In the mist I catch a glimpse of a tiny white shack, now boarded up, that hugs—actually embraces—the side of the road.

Once a familiar personal landmark, the shack is now ghosting me; I have to squint to see the beautiful ruin. en there it is: the former location of the world headquarters of El’s Fried Clams, a coastal legend dating to the last mid-century. During a lost summer in the 1960s, my father gave El’s quite the buildup when we began what was to become a holy annual ritual. He told me that while ying B-17s during World War II over Germany and Occupied France, he’d dreamed of fried clams back in Maine, the crunch followed by the sweet explosion of salty moistness. I can still hear the rapturous tones he used. As for his recommendation, he was spot on! El’s served the best fried clams I’ve ever tasted.

Fried Clam Royalty

My grandparents, Eleanor & Jack Ritchie, opened El’s Fried Clams on Memorial Day, 1945,” says Dawn Darby of Cape Neddick. “I worked in the shack starting at age 9, standing on a wooden box. I kept working there until I was 24 or 25. I still have the secret recipe, but what we were using then we couldn’t get today! And the price of clams! Can you believe it?”

What's it like being fried clam royalty?

“When I was growing up, everybody knew we were part of El’s Fried Clams. Not just the townies but people in limousines. They lined both sides of the road. Secret service guys with their stiff posture. Actors at Ogunquit would send people over to us to pick up some clams before a show.”

Close your eyes and think back to the best fried clams you’ve ever enjoyed. Not even close. At El’s they were twice as good as that. e recollection wells up: “Gee, I love this place.”

You don’t have to be Proust to know that memories have a taste. Legends are best when inhaled.

Piano Man

Very interesting article [“Mr. H,” February/ March 2023]! I am glad to have been able to help out some!

I’m o on my next concert trip on Wednesday—to Guam and Saipan for the whole month. en New Zealand (my 14th tour there) will follow. ere will be concerts to play in other places as the year goes on.

Roman Rudnytsky, on world tour

Smashing Bardic Bash

I am absolutely delighted! Everyone loves [“Redemption Center,” April 2023]! And I’m glad the Bard’s Birthday Bash is in the calendar. ank you so much for this energetic and touching piece. All of RSC is grateful and thrilled.

Again, it was fantastic talking with you. ank you for your beautiful talent!

Lyn Rowden, Recycled Shakespeare Company, Fair eld

Early Influencer

A cousin of mine who lives in Florida somehow found “ e Man Who Invented Maine” [October 2021] and forwarded it to family members. I grew up in Rangeley, and Fred C. Barker is my great-grandfather. My folks owned and operated one of the hotels that Capt. F. C. Barker, as he was known, built on one of the Rangeley lakes. He was an amazing man.

In the 1950s, my folks always took us three kids to Portland in the fall to buy clothes for school. We always stayed at the Eastland Hotel and shopped at Benoit’s and Porteous, Mitchell & Braun on Congress Street. We had many dinners at Boone’s Restaurant on the waterfront. My dad and Gene Boone were friends.

Paul Harnden, Taylors, SC

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