Portland Monthly Magazine Summerguide 2017

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MONTHLY YO U R D O O R TO

Authentic Maine

288 Extraordinary summerguide 2017 Vol. 32 no. 4 $7.95

w w w. p o rt l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m maine’s city magazine

Adventures

F O R T H E U LT I M AT E S U M M E R

Story Land and Santa’s Village Packages Our two night Story Land and Santa’s Village packages provide all the fun of a magical visit. Choose from one of two of New England’s most popular attractions, with resort accommodations, breakfast, and passes to Kahuna Laguna Indoor Water Park. It’s fun for the whole family!

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Acadia

Portland

Maine’s MidCoast & Islands Between Portland and Acadia lies Maine’s MidCoast & Islands, where beautiful peninsulas and the Atlantic meet to create a dream playground.

Belfast

Owls Head Lighthouse

Camden Hills State Park

Rockland Harbor, Penobscot Bay

Background Photo: Reid State Park

The MidCoast is alive with amazing local food, outdoor adventures, renowned museums, and cozy places to stay.

A short drive from Portland is all it takes to discover the many hidden gems of the coast that will make your Maine summer unforgettable.

FOLLOW US

@mainesmidcoast

MainesMidCoast.com

“ We’ve never been in a shop like this.

The shop is like a museum…the works of Maine’s artists have to be amongst the best in the world! The carvings look like they are breathing, the pictures draw you in, the skills displayed stagger the mind. A must-see shop on your tour of Camden’s downtown.”

“ Maine’s best artists on display.”

Marine & Nature Fine & Fun F Art

“ Ducktrap Bay Trading Co. is a gem.”

We can’t tell t you how often we hear this from our visitors v and customers. Ducktrap Bay Trading Tradi Company is the marine and wildlife ar art gallery on the center crosswalk in downto downtown Camden.

Represent Representing over 200 artists—original paintings, carvings, etchings, sculpture, scrimshaw…and so much more! scrimshaw Come to C Camden and visit us. You won’t be disappointed. disappoin

Ship Models Half Hulls Wee Forest Folk k Jewelry: Kameleon, leon, ass Lizzie James, Sea Glass

Discover your natural world—in art!

20 Main Street, Camden 207-236-9568 info@ducktrapbay.com www.ducktrapbay.com

Visit one of our many hotels in the Acadia National Park area and experience the Witham Way! Ask about special rates and packages for Portland Magazine readers, which include fresh local dining and adventures in Acadia.

www.withamfamilyhotels.com

Sheepscot River Pottery Pottery and Fine Gifts

Visit us on the web at www.sheepscot.com, or at one of our stores: Route One, Edgecomb, 04556, 207-882-9410 Main Street, Damariscotta, 04543, 207-563-6677

2017 2017 2017

ALFA ROMEO GUILIA AND 4C COUPE LET THE EMOTION START

Discover the new Alfa Romeo Giulia and 4C Coupe. For over 105 years, Alfa Romeo has inspired greatness on and off the track. Alfa Romeo history is based on excellence and legendary victories, and the Giulia and 4C Coupe continue the legacy of avant-garde technology, stylistic elegance and fine Italian craftsmanship.

Visit Alfa Romeo of Portland to see the pure beauty of the 4C Coupe first hand, and to learn more about the upcoming Giulia.

Alfa Romeo of Portland 4 Rand Rd. Portland, ME 04102 1-888-904-9261 www.AlfaRomeoOfPortland.com

Discover the

BELOVED ISLAND that the Roosevelts so loved

• 34-room Cottage • 2,800-acre nature park: drive, bike, hike, picnic • The Fireside restaurant • Tea with Eleanor daily • 9-5 EDT , May 27-Oct 14 • FREE admission

“The #1 site to see east of Bar Harbor” —Maine: An Explorer’s Guide

Roosevelt Campobello International Park

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Make Everyday a Special Occasion Create your very own dinnerware set. Choose from three plate styles and nearly endless patterns.

Gift Registry available.

HANDCRAFTING FINE PORCELAIN SINCE 1972

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Bar Harbor’s Premier Oceanfront Accommodations

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Creating new memories.

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Loren Coleman, Director/Founder

Coleman, Director/Founder AsLoren appearing on CBS Sunday Morning and As appearing on CBS Sunday Morning and Mysteries at the Museum.

Mysteries at the Museum.

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on Street Portland, ME 04101 rytozoologymuseum. om • 4 Thompson’s Point, Portland, ME 04102 •

on Street Portland, ME 04101 rytozoologymuseum. om CRYPTOZOOLOGYMUSEUM.COM

JOIN US LABOR DAY WEEKEND FOR OUR INTERNATIONAL CRYPTOZOOLOGY CONFERENCE ON SEPTEMBER 3, 2017

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Open all Wednesdays through Mondays (including all holidays), 11 am to 3:30 pm. Closed every Tuesday.

Adults $7, 12 and under $5

Cryptozoology is the scientific study of hidden animals such as Bigfoot, Yetis, Nessies, and Chupacabras!

Cryptozoology is the scientific study of hidden animals such as Bigfoot, Yetis, Nessies, and Chupacabras!

.

Open all Wednesdays through Mondays (including all holidays), 11 am to 3:30 pm 11 am to 3:30 pm. Closed every Tuesday.

Adults $7, 12 and under $5

Admission: Adults $10; Seniors (65+) $8; Babies (remaining in stroller or

;

“IT IS AN AMAZING O O T NIT TO COME AC AN CA E O T E OMEN O MAINE ING EGNANC C IL I T AN TO OVI E G NECOLOGIC CA E T O G O T T EI LIVES”

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ENN ILL E JOINING COASTAL’S TEAM O OVI E S IN A G ST AN IS ACCE TING NE ATIENTS CONTACT T E O ICE TO A TO SC E LE O A OINTMENT TO CARE. TO EDUCATE. TO EXCEL. TO IMPROVE THE HEALTH OF WOMEN IN MAINE.

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A thrilling new novel based on the true story of the largest re in Maine’s history—from the author of

T HE P IL OT ’S WI FE

ELEN A S I EB ERT

A N I TA SHREVE “Long before Liane Moriarty was spinning her ‘Big Little Lies,’ Shreve was spicing up domestic doings in beachfront settings with terrible husbands and third-act twists. She still is, as effectively as ever, this time with a narrative literally lit from within.”

—New York Times Book Review

An exquisitely suspenseful new novel about an extraordinary young woman tested by a raging re and its devastating aftermath.

“A PAGE-TURNER …Suspenseful and heartwarming” —Booklist

“ TOTALLY IRRESISTIBLE” —Kate Christensen, Portland Press Herald

Knopf

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Who would you be if you could begin again?

Your personal vacationland is here.

Welcome to the Anchorage.

Just a short drive from Portland and Boston, the Anchorage Inn and Resort is a complete oceanfront destination, featuring over 200 rooms and suites, 2 outdoor and 2 indoor swimming pools, Sun and Surf oceanfront dining, a poolside café, fitness center, resort-wide WiFi, and more.

For Reservations,call 207-363-5112

For casual but cool dining anytime, try the Sun and Surf!  Serving seaside breakfast, lunch & dinner  Your favorite cocktails  Eat in/take out  Beachfront deck  Enjoy creative takes on fresh New England seafood & more!

On the beach, across from The Anchorage Inn.

Ask about our catering & wedding packages!

207-363-2961

265 Long Beach Ave., York Beach, Maine  anchorageinn.com

ur Restaurants Hooligans Steak & Hooligans Steak & Ale Hurricane Raw Bar The Sunset Deck ’s Landing Lindbergh’s Landing Pier Patio Pub Tequila Frogs

Bull & Brew Winghouse Nat’s Pizza

Fresh Local Seafood Family Friendly hildrens Menu Beautiful Ocean iews Friendly Staff Rela ed Atmos here

ntertainment 7 Days A Week Li e s Band

DJ Danc e

ke Joeyo Show

o Ad ria omed n y

For more information go to our website at OOBPier com

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“Night is a Cabaret” Just the ticket for the shy and retiring types.

By Olivia Gunn

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waterfront concerts

Bite into the briny history of Maine’s oyster industry.

By Sarah Moore

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The country’s most celebrated oyster blogger talks meroirs and marriage in Maine.

By Julie Qiu

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245 L’Esprit de l’Escalier How a Holocaust survivor inspired so much joy during the Wonderbread years.

By Rhea Côté Robbins

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Your private Shangri-La awaits.

From Portland Harbor to Machiasport, we share parcels of paradise you’ll dream of owning this summer–with descriptions and prices.

By Colin W. Sargent & Willis Kuelthau

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For sale on Zeb Cove off Shore Road, Cape Elizabeth: Eliot Cutler’s mesmerizing estate transcends geography with stunning antiques from Beijing, a twostorey tower library, a significant collection of contemporary Maine art, and just the two grand pianos.

By Colin W. Sargent

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“The Lively Lady” Five generations of sea captains left their hearts in this 1799 landmark in Kennebunkport. And oh, by the way, Kenneth Roberts tippled here.

By Sharon Cummings

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cover: “sunset at Bass Harbor Lighthouse, acadia national Park.” Photo by Kim seng. summerguide 2017 31

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ansive, inimitable, uni ue, maine shimmers rom the ti o mount Katahdin to the de ths o the largest ocean hirl ool in the western Hemis here. Hear the insights o mainers ho love to listen to “the ticking o eternity.” taste the best lobster rolls on earth. feel the ind blo ing across the helm o the schooner Bowdoin as she tacks to ard 100 years a oat. unsure o ake maine Here s the real deal.

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from Left: courtes Henr Kno museum fiLe PHoto micHaeL Prince

Discover an icy surprise deep in the heart of Baxter State Park.

By Sarah Moore

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Before Kickstarter you could buy a piece of the schooner Bowdoin.

By Colin W. Sargent

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The largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere sucks us in.

By Sarah Moore

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Why Thoreau didn’t have the Moxie to scale Katahdin.

By Colin W. Sargent

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Edna St. Vincent Millay’s dearest spot on Mt. Battie.

By Colin W. Sargent

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In your own words.

Photography by Diane Hudson, Blair Best & Ryanne Desjardins

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Where the Natives eat.

The inside track to Maine’s local foodie favorites.

From Staff & Wire Reports

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PHOTO FEATURE: Inspired by

our shores, a pharographer from Japan puts our lights up in lights.

Photography by Fujio Mino

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Schooner Bagheera has a double life as a college science classroom.

By Patricia Pierce Erikson

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Did the great statesman and social reformer address Portland’s African Americans at the Abyssinian Meeting House?

By Darlene Taylor

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Who killed Sir Harry Oakes, the richest man in the world– and a Mainer to boot? News flash: We hear from Sir Harry’s granddaughter!

By Ron Soodalter

summerguide 2017 33

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Because groceries aren’t the only thing on your list.

Shop online, and pick up your groceries at the store.

Shopping made easy.

hannaford to go SM

easy

Order right from your tablet, phone, or laptop.

If it’s available at your store, you can order it with Hannaford To Go – at all the same low prices.

fresh

Like your steak extra thick? Your bananas a little green? Let us know. We hand select your order, fresh the day you pick it up.

fast

Your order is ready in as little as 4 hours – just stop by the store to pick up your groceries.

Go to hannaford.com/togo to learn more and to place your order.

Hannaford To Go hours: Sun. - Sat., 9 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Order 4 hours in advance for same-day pickup. *All pickup times are subject to availability.

Available at these Hannaford locations: Biddeford 299 Elm Street, Biddeford, ME Broadway St. 653 Broadway Street, Bangor, ME Kennebunk 65 Portland Road, Kennebunk, ME Maine Mall 415 Philbrook Avenue, South Portland, ME

North Windham 797 Roosevelt Trail, North Windham, ME Turnpike Mall 29 Whitten Road, Augusta, ME Westbrook 7 Hannaford Drive, Westbrook, ME Yarmouth 756 Route #1, Yarmouth, ME York 5 Hannaford Drive, York, ME

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Step inside Henry Knox’s Montpelier mansion, re-imagined.

From Staff & Wire Reports

from Left: some da Prods sPorteLLo Pat PiasecKi

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The fading darling of Maine’s menus traces its origins directly to the Paris stage.

From Staff & Wire Reports

182 c i The Trumpeter of Krakow

Open the door to an author’s island getaway.

From Staff & Wire Reports

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Surf’s up in Maine!

From Staff & Wire Reports

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Anne Morrow Lindbergh’s lyrical take on North Haven Island from the air is answered by fellow pilot Elizabeth Maynard as she navigates the heavens over Casco Bay.

By Anne Morrow Lindebergh & Elizabeth Maynard

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Swamp blues star Kenny Neal talks Cajun cooking and Maine connections before The North Atlantic Blues Festival July 16.

Interview by Colin W. Sargent

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“Bad girl of the food world” Barbara Lynch takes us from lobster soirées with Caroline Kennedy to trips to Italy with Maine chefs.

Interview by Nina Livingstone PLUS: “My Lobster Encounter: Spiky, Elusive, Delicious” A blind writer explores Maine with her sense of taste–with surprising revelations.

By Nina Livingstone

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Spend an evening in the company of delicious dishes and stunning views at the Inn By The Sea’s Sea Glass Restaurant.

By Diane Hudson

art&StyLe 299

A Shaggy Dog”

By Joan Connor

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We catch you being you.

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Dare to pair irreverence with beauty as we consider wines for an endless summer.

By Ralph Hersom

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colin w. sargent, editor

Publisher

Yare

T

Visit Castle Tucker & Nickels-Sortwell House Wiscasset, Maine For information, visit HistoricNewEngland.org or call 207-882-7169 $1 off museum admission with this ad

his Summerguide 2017 issue of Portland Monthly is a labor not just of love, but True Love. We do this sort of thing on purpose. In a year as strange as this, it’s essential to bring you the real Maine, not the fake Maine.

One of my favorite sudden mentions of Maine in the movies is in High Society, starring Grace Kelley (as Tracy) and Bing Crosby (as Dexter). SCENE: Dexter and Tracy have split up. Tracy is about to marry more responsible (but surely less romantic) George. Dexter shows up at the wedding, uninvited. Dexter steals a moment to give Tracy a present. We all catch our breaths as she tenderly unwraps an exquisite pond-boat model (just as you’re unwrapping this Summerguide). What is it?

George, who’s all about business, wants to know.

Tracy pauses just a little too long...

TRACY: Oh, a wedding present. From Dext.

TIME TRAVEL THROUGH 300 YEARS OF HISTORY

It’s a model of the “True Love.” We sailed her up the coast of Maine and back the summer we were married. My, she was yare.

GEORGE: Yare? What’s that?

TRACY: It means, oh, easy to handle, quick to the helm. Fast, bright. Everything a boat should be.

[She casts a withering glance at Dexter.]

Until it develops dry rot.

“HigH societ ”

Visit historic houses, enjoy traditional crafts, chat with costumed role-players. Open 7 days 10-5 thru Oct 31 StrawberyBanke.org

In another fun vein, High Society was a remake of The Philadelphia Story, starring Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant, and was remade as a Broadway show that offered the breakout role to Maine’s own high flyer, Anna Kendrick.

Mystical yare is what we’re always chasing with our stories at Portland Monthly. Usually we get there. Other times, we have to start bailing! Yes, some might joke that this over 300-page love letter to Maine is a bit beamy, but beamy can be yare. We’re hoping you see this Summerguide as the thrilling, trusty transport to dreams we’ve intended. This is the True Love we’re giving to our readers. Welcome to our “Authentic Maine.” Fair winds and following seas.

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m ’ C m 165 state street, Portland, maine 04101 Phone: 207 775 4339 fa : 207 775 2334 . ortlandmaga ine.com c

w. s editor

founding editor Publisher ortlandmonthly.com

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THE PARTY SHOULD BE THE ONLY SURPRISE THAT COMES AT RETIREMENT.

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readers

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the o inions given in this maga ine are those o o nd in riters. no establishment is ever covered in this maga ine because it has advertised, and no ayment ever in uences our stories and revie s.

o nd in is ublished by sargent Publishing, inc. all corres ondence should be addressed to 165 state street, Portland, me 04101. advertising o ce: 165 state street, Portland, me 04101. 207 775 4339. re eat internet rights are understood to be urchased ith all stories and art ork. for ues tions regarding advertising invoicing and ayments, call eric taylor. ne sstand cover date: une 2017, ublished in une 2017, ol. 32, no. 4, co yright 2017. o nd in is mailed at third class mail rates in Port land, me 04101 issn: 1073 1857 . o inions e ressed in articles are those o authors and do not re resent editorial ositions o o nd in . Letters to the editor are elcome and ill be treated as uncondition ally assigned or ublication and co yright ur oses and as sub ect to o nd in s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. re s onsible only or that ortion o any advertisement hich is rinted incor rectly. advertisers are res onsible or co yrights o materials they submit. nothing in this issue may be re rinted in hole or in art ithout ritten ermission rom the ublishers. submissions elcome, but e take no re s onsibility or unsolicited materials. all hotogra hy has been enhanced or your en oyment. o nd in is ublished 10 times annually by sargent Publishing, inc., 165 state street, Portland, maine, 04101, ith ne sstand cover dates o winterguide, february march, a ril, may, summerguide, uly august, se tember, october, november, and december. we are roudly rinted in the usa by cummings Printing. o nd in is the inner o 65 american gra hic design a ards resented by gra hic design usa or e cellence in ublication design.

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Two Portland Square, 7th Floor // Portland, ME 04101 Phone: 207.771.1800 // Toll-Free: 866.680.1196 // Fax: 207.253.5480 www.PortlandHarborGroup.com

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summerguide 2017 37

editor

ortlandmonthly.com

ZINE PORTL AND MAGA

UCING ISING | INTROD RETRO FOOD R

GTO N ’ ‘ I N N E R WA S H I N

MONTHLY

MAY 2017 3 VOLUM E 32, NO.

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NE.COM ANDMAGAZI W W W. P O RT L Y MAGAZINE MAINE’S CIT

See y u here I came across your story “Electric Avenue” [May 2017] and loved it. I’ve never been but can’t wait to take a long weekend this summer and hit up as many of your suggested spots as possible!

Michelle Trainor, New York fLame fame The flambé article was great! Thank you for including us. It was very exciting to see it.

[See “Dinner Is The Show,” May 2017] Hugo Aguirre, White Barn Inn, Kennebunk

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a taSte f t y [Izakaya Minato, reviewed in “Tokyo Gastropub,” April 2017] Thanks for such a great write-up!

Thomas Takashi Cooke & Elaine Alden, Portland

I S ★ SERV

APPLIANCES, BEDDING, SALES & SERVICE Ask us about financing options.

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dan f geL erg r C S n in ur arChiveS [See “Wild Child,” April 2010.]

From one lifelong musician to another… heartbreaking.

G. E. Perry, Thunderbolt, GA A beautiful interview that I thoroughly enjoyed about my favorite artist and musician. He was one of a kind. Dan left us way too soon. I wish his wife would write a biography.

Donna Sloan Harmon, Pontotoc, MS

A great story from Portland Monthly about Jean and Dan Fogelberg!

Liz Pettengill, Portland the ShaPe f thingS I’d like to get a copy of [“Urbane Rattle,” December 2015]. My gallery [Jim Kempner Fine Art, New York City] has asked to see it.

Charlie Hewitt, Yarmouth m ving ShaPeS My show in Pownal went extremely well– I’m sure the article didn’t hurt [See “One Man’s Treasure,” November 2016]. Out of 36 pieces I came home with just a handful!

Pat Plourde, New Gloucester CheC ing in Hi Colin, I just checked into an inn in Portland and in my room found a copy of Portland Monthly magazine. So, I opened it up and found your name on the masthead.

Here’s a blast from the past! You’re doing great work.

Ellen Meeropol, Massachusetts t aSt f the t n Great article! I can’t wait to visit some of these fabulous eateries on our next trip to Portland!

[See “Back on the Menu,” May 2017] Donna Dyro Wilkinson, Las Vegas, NV

Baked Alaska lights up the White Barn Inn..

Fun Fact Disney illustrat rs ere sent t Mt. Katahdin t nd inspirati n r the ani ated l Bambi, hi h turns in August.

Lobster Rolling

m i f f celebrates its 20th anniversary July 14-23 in Waterville.

Featuring a mix of Maine-made films, international features, and documentaries, the festival is a dazzling draw for cinephiles. “We’ve invited back special guests from the past 20 festivals to celebrate the anniversary,” says Festival Director Shannon Haynes. You’ll pay $10 for individual screenings or $200 for an all-access weekend pass.

forget i on in Port land based i on B id Har ercollins, 12.99 is the latest thriller you on t be able to ut do n. the novel is the th in the mccabe and savage series ritten by Peaks islander and w o i bestselling author h , ho Visit explore.org/live-cams/player/ eels Portland “is a great audubon-boat-house-osprey-nest city to set a thriller series in. it s got striking architecture an urban, gritty eel.” Hayman doesn t balk at u ta osing grisly mys teries ith the ictur es ue backdro o his hometo n, say ing, “agatha christie as the same ay.”

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Pictures in the Dark

Maine’s piercing web cams include live updates from an osprey nest in Bremen.

Warning: It’ll tear your heart out.

cLocKwise from toP Left: courtes Bite into maine courtes

Murder on the Downeast Express

maine internationaL fiLm fest osPre

cam

as maine lobster goes international, there s a cro ded eld o lob ster roll trucks serving greater Portland. familiar aces like i m le t o er to ings like asabi mayo or 17.95. h L C serves a version or 15 on a illo y, s eet brioche bun. inset right: L L has rolled out a Kennebunk based truck, hile C m L , ith 13 trucks nationally and lans or another in tai an , has ust o ened sho in Portland. But ait. at ress time, online menus suggest that cousins maine lobster rolls rom nashville to Las egas cost less 15.50 than the same roll in Portland 16.99 , des ite the lobster having seemingly been caught right here. right: t r , Kennebunk.

Here s a truck ith a ast: “almost one o kind hen ne , this relic o the cold war as commissioned by maine civil de ense as a mobile feed ing unit to service emergencies.”

UNPARALLELED LU X URY

EXCEPTIONAL YEAR-ROUND EXPERIENCES

THIS SUMMER EXPERIENCE NEW ENGL AND’S MOST LUXURIOUS OCEANFRONT RESORT. Emerging from a landmark transformation, this iconic resort was re-imagined for authentic year-round experiences.

Surround yourself with incomparable accommodations, locally-inspired cuisine and passionate service. Enjoy a broad array of activities including cornhole on the lawn of Nubb’s Lobster Shack, exclusive access to the Cape Neddick Golf Club, indulging in our spa above the cliffs or just simply relaxing and enjoying the remarkable ocean views.

This summer discover a new generation of Cliff House and build memories that will last a lifetime.

cliffhousemaine.com · 207.361.1000 · Contact Your Travel Professional · 591 Shore Road, Cape Neddick, Maine 03902

Little This,

Little That on uly 16, n brings his 2017 grammy nominated s am blues to the maine coast.

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Sarg en t

he son of legendary harmonica player Raful Neal, Kenny Neal grew up playing blues, jazz, and R&B with his four brothers in New Orleans and Baton Rouge. As raves hit the waves for Kenny’s new album Bloodline, he delivers his magic to the North Atlantic Blues Festival in Rockland– just when we need it. hat s the luc iest song you ever rote here you said didn t rite that song. omebody else slipped into my body and rote it.

It’s called “Let life flow.” A spirit put it in my pocket.

o onder cro ds love the ay you play blues guitar and harmonica. your harmonica ere a cell phone ho ould you be calling

My dad, Raful Neal. ver lose a harmonica and had it come ind you

Press PHoto

I’ve lost my harmonicas many times. It always comes back to me by mail, or when I come back to a town, someone will bring it back, saying, “You left this the last time you were here!”

J U LY 16

ra ish vs. obster

I love them both. l have lobster shipped to Louisiana from Maine, and we cook them like we do crawfish. you ere going to serve a aine lobster dinner ouisiana-style ho

ould

summerguide 2017 43

Rockland ’s HOT on July 15/16

he rth Atlanti Blues esti al in kland dra s r ds r all er the untr .

area, not New Orleans. Zydeco came from Lafayette-Opelousas Area west of the Baton Rouge area, not New Orleans. Sorry, I don’t know much about the Maine style of music.

you liven it up

’ los y a on ca any s al ays co s ack o

We’re bringing the same as Cajun cooking–a little bit of swamp blues. Cajun blues and Delta blues music are just like Cajun cooking–a little of this, a little of that. ou re playing up here on uly the coast o aine this year

Kenny neal s album B ood in as nominated or C a at the 2017 grammies. e s at the

th t antic ues Festi a

saturda , uly 15 Kids rom mCma C 1, 10:30 10:55 a.m. C i , 11:15 a.m. 12:15 .m. S S , 12:30 1:30 .m. a g , 1:45 3:00 .m. m & t m , 3:15 4:45 .m.

S C , 5:00 6:30 .m. sunda , uly 16 Kids rom mCma C 1, 10:30 10:55 a.m. h , 11:15 a.m.

12:15 .m. d d &t z h , 12:30 1:30 .m. h S r i, 1:45 3:00 .m. n , 3:15 4:30 .m. t , 4:45 6:15 .m.

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the blues so much. It’s great to see them keeping it alive, and I want to be a part of it.

. hat attracted you to

The North Atlantic Blues Festival is a fun place to play, because the people here love

e

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e no blues s amp blues and ydeco spring rom e rleans. hen you listen does aine have a signature sound

Swamp blues came from the Baton Rouge

“ a un blues and Delta blues music are ust like a un cooking a little of this, a little of that.”

n the movie ai the id eeps noodling around on the piano channeling parts o a lost song his ather rote. t becomes urple ain. ecause your dad as a serious per ormer there must be a song li e that that eeps you a a e at night. ell us about one o his songs that haunts you.

The name of the song is “Change My Way of Living.” My dad wrote it back in the ’60s, and I still do it today. n aine e have ndre yeth and his son amie. amie told us his dad ouldn t give him advice on painting to ma e sure he d ollo his o n stars. ith the blues as your canvas hat s the unniest thing your dad ever told you about music or the best advice

H

e told me something about music, but it wasn’t funny. He told me not to play blues and try to learn the more updated music they were listening to when I was growing up, because I’d never be able to make a living at playing blues. “They take advantage of the blues players and don’t give them the credit they deserve.” He only told me that because of his experience. ell us about your irst trip to aine.

The first time I came to Maine was in the late 1980s. I played a wedding in Bangor for $5,000. It was the first time I ever made that much money for a gig in my life.

PHoto

nny

nortH atLantic BLues fest courtes

he cadians traveled south and turned into the a uns o ouisiana. p here in aine e still claim e brought the a un coo ing to you. hat ind o music are you bringing bac to us this summer

from toP: courtes

We make a lobster étouffée with our creole seasoning.

Antiques on Nine

Route 9, Kennebunk Lower Village Open 7 Days 10-5 • 207-967-0626

ic  Friends s u M  d o o F

B

hat part did you play in the angston ughes play id being a musician help your acting

My Broadway show was a love triangle.

Two young guys sing and dance. We were close friends until Daisy came around.

She’d always cause us to break our friendship. I play the guitar player and singer, Jim Western. t the end o B both guys get sic o aisy and al o . ave you ever hile playing had something happen that made you ust al o the stage midper ormance

Yes, I was performing at the New Orleans Jazz Festival, and a streak of lightning came down so hard it vibrated the stage–and we all walked off immediately. More like ran off. o you have a song you no you re going to play at the orth tlantic lues estival ust or us in aine

1274 Bridgton Road (Route 302) West brook, Maine 207.591.0117 | fb.com/liveat lennys

I don’t carry around a set list. I feel the people and know immediately what I should play, but I’ll be doing songs from the new Bloodline CD that I was nominated for a Grammy for this year.

HARBOR PARK IN ROCKLAND MAINE

JULY 15 & 16 2017

BLUES

FESTIVAL

FESTIVAL HOTLINE 207.691.2248 • WWW.NORTHATLANTICBLUESFESTIVAL.COM ADVANCE TIX $30/DAY-$55/WEEKEND • ADVANCE TIX SALES END MONDAY JULY 10, 2017 • TIX AT THE GATE $40/DAY-$75/WEEKEND

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as there ever a night hen you said m never going to play a harmonica again

No, never. o about your guitar hat is your high point and lo point oes it have a name e hear ucille is already ta en.

Yeah, my guitar is named Bessie. My highest part when I’m performing is when I look out in the audience and everybody I see just has a great time. My lowest part is when I do songs like “You Got to Hurt Before You Heal” and I see everyone weeping.

It also brings tears from my eyes. hats the uic est ay to tell a harmonica player is a ing it

Listen for a moment. ou re not a raid to eep a song slo and use silence as a musical instrument. s that something you ve had to learn

Yes, it comes with time. It’s called trust the moment. ■ enny eal ill be per orming at the orth tlantic lues estival in arbor ar oc land uly .

summerguide 2017 47

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A IuLiDldIiNnGg MaiInNeEHHisItSoTryO•R ERBeUb Y•

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DING MAINE HISTO L I U RY Us EB CoMe Visit

COME VISIT• US this SUMMER! sUMMeR! THIS trains run on

Trains run on US saturday & sunday.

COME VISIT US Saturday and Sunday.

T US Callfor for schedule. schedule.

ER! Call Y•

THIS SUMMER!

MER! n 97 Cross Road, Alna on nday.

207-882-4193 unday.Trains run on le. www.wwfry.org dule.

Saturday and Sunday. na Alna 3 Call for schedule.

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COME VISIT US THIS SUMMER! 97 Cross Road, Alna, Maine • 207-882-4193 • wwfry.org 97 Cross Road, Alna Trains run on 207-882-4193 Saturday and Sunday. www.wwfry.org Call for schedule.

Experience Portland...

97 Cross Road, Alna 207-882-4193 www.wwfry.org

OLD ORCHARD — MAINE’S BEST BEACH!

Minutes from downtown Portland Alouette Sunrise Suites · 91 East Grand Avenue · Old Orchard Beach, Maine For Reservations Call Toll Free 800-565-4151 · www.alouettebeachresort.com 48 P

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Rangeley Health and Wellness & 99.9 The Wolf present

An Evening with Clint Black

Saturday July 29, 2017

Gates open at 4:00 pm for this outdoor benefit concert overlooking Rangeley Lake.

Also Appearing: the Houston Bernard Band Tickets are available at ticketweb.com or by calling 207-864-4397 RHW Pavilion 25 Dallas Hill Rd. Rangeley, ME www.rangeleyhealthandwellness.com

summerguide 2017 49

Dave Clough Photography

ADVANCING MAINE’S MOST INNOVATIVE ARTISTS SINCE 1952.

Come see our new Rockland museum, designed by the legendary architect Toshiko Mori.

C E N T E R F O R M A I N E C O N T E M P O R A RY A R T | 2 1 W I N T E R ST R E E T, R O C K L A N D , M E | C M CA N OW. O R G

YOU WORK HARD IN YOUR COMMUNITY, SO COME OUT AND PLAY. oin AARP for free monthly coffee and on-tap social events They’re a great way to meet new people and find out what we’re doing in your community. The first beverage at each event is on us and friends are welcome.

Brunswick Cookies and Coffee | ew Beet Market, 25 Burbank Ave, Brunswick. Third Wednesday of each month from AM - PM Portland Coffee | AARP Maine, 53 Baxter Blvd., Portland irst riday of each month from 3 - AM Portland On-Tap | RiRa, 2 ommercial treet, Portland Third Thursday of each month from 4 - 6 PM Get to know us at 207-776-6303, aarp.org/me or @aarpmaine 50 P

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THE GREAT LOST BEAR 0 EERS ON TAP 40

INCLUDING LOCAL FRESH MAINE BEERS 540 FOREST AVENUE PORTLAND, ME 207-772-0300 www.greatlostbear.com

summerguide 2017 51

Concierge Your Tickets to the Best Events in Maine

from toP: c ndi LauPer Press courtes

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1

e’d better hurry to hear the best sounds in Maine, because this summer’s already taking off. First, a smart ticket buy is $23 and up for Cyndi Lauper’s concert on July 14 at Darling’s Waterfront Pavilion in Bangor. The show, with Rod Stewart, no less, starts at 7:30 p.m.

lights up Maine July 14.

e At sunset the s h ner Alert. e Bagheera and Wendameen ra e past a Island ight.

2

get n ard t’ll be one thing to watch Portland SchoonerFest and Regatta as the sleek fleet hits the runway on Portland Harbor June 24-26. But how much better to ride one of these beauties yourself during the event! Meet me in the lobby and we’ll talk about it. Tickets run $55 per person. This fashion show for sleek sailing features a parade of glamour vessels followed by a re-

I

arling s Water r nt a illi n lights up the sk .

L

gatta across Casco Bay. Look for world-famous schooners, including Adventure from Gloucester and Alert from Bailey Island, to compete against local stars Bagheera and Wendameen for the Rybacki Cup. Fun fact about Wendameen: She’s definitely on the social register, having carried passengers from Eugene O’Neill to Katharine Anne Porter. Race-wise, everyone wins: Beyond the fiercely competitive awards, The Shipyard Cup will be awarded to the crew that demonstrates “the most spirited attitude toward the racing.” By the way, this doesn’t happen every day. “This will be the first time in my lifetime that large schooners have raced in Portland Harbor,” says Regatta officer Tim Tolford. summerguide 2017 53

Summer eventS

r Music Fe rbo s a H founded by artistic ti

l va

Ba r

Concierge director francis fortier, h m f is a ne england summer avorite. en oy si teen er ormances eaturing ma terial ranging rom mo art to scott o lin rom uly 2 30. there ill also be seven oung audience con certs that ill sho case e citing ne talent. 288 5744.

e i ing r

ne ork ainter S ill make your mouth ater ith her array o dessert aintings in “ ou can Have our cake and eat it too” at t m g g in rock ort. o ening night uly 8 ea tures an artist s talk, “s eet revenge o the dentist s daughter.” sho runs uly 12 to august 1. 236 9623.

Unleashed Keys described as “a cross bet een elton ohn he sings and lays the iano and robin williams his comedy is o the all ,” versatile im ersonator ’ ill have you in stitches at . august 26, 646 4777.

By the ay, the real elton ohn ill be coming to Portland s cross insurance arena november 17.

Wine & Dine

che michael gosselin o Le iston s fuel restaurant ill tan tali e diners ith traditional french are at g d S held at the maine Botanical gardens in Boothbay. tickets are bet een 75 and 90, uly 3, 633 8000.

Pink Floyd Down Under talk about the dark side o the barbie. the a P f S is coming to state theatre in Portland on uly 26, eaturing cover songs and a s ectacular laser sho . Kee your eyes eeled or the in atable ink kangaroo. 745 3000.

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7

C t 190 stock farm rd., south Paris. i i on nin ow rst saturday in un., ul., aug., se t. oct. 743 8452 C C t , see ebsite or Bel ast locations. in ul. 13 16. 930 7244 C t , 205 main st. i do , ul. 21 aug. 6. 282 084 d t 156 deertrees rd., Harrison. in o i o , ul. 7 aug. 18 indoo doo , ul. 15 aug. 3. 583 6747 f t C at deering oaks Park, Portland. i , ul. 13 aug. 5. f C P , 30 free ort Per orming arts center, Holbrook st., free ort. i , ul. 20 30 n o wo , se t. 14 oct. 1. 865 2220 h P , 538 route 9, Ber ick. o , un. 16 ul. 1 B dd B dd o o ul. 5 22 no i , ul. 26 aug.

12 n i , aug. 16 se t. 2. 698 1807 h r t C Lincoln academy, ne castle. n o ood , ul. 13 22 un. 26 ul. 6. 563 1373 g t , winthro st., Hallo ell. oi , un. 16 25 B i , aug. 18 27. 626 3698 L t 75 theater rd., madison. o od i , un. 22 ul. 1 o di in o on o n , ul.

6 15 n ul. 20 ul. 29 n n i in o i , aug. 3 12 B B o dw aug. 17 26 B i , se t. 1 9 o d o no , se t. 14 23. 474 7176 m S t 348 u.s. rte. 1, falmouth. in i , may 19 20 on i o , aug. 10 19. 781 7672 m S m t , Pickard theater, 1 Bath rd., Bruns ick. w in , une 7 24 in B une 14 17 nd o , un.

28 ul. 15 , ul. 19 aug. 5 w i , aug.

9 26 i in ond nd, aug. 21. 725 8769 P 10 main st., ogun uit. i , may 17 ul. 1 B Bo d w , ul. 5 29 i aug. 2 26 o , aug. 30 se t. 30 o o ni oct.

4 29. 646 5511 P t C Bangor o era House, 131 main st on , un. 15 ul. 9. 942 3333 S a C , 16 richville rd., standish. Bi o o , un. 9 11 n, ul. 13 30 disney Be ore dark Kids, aug. 4 6 n on i nd aug. 18 20 , se t.

19 oct. 15. 642 3743 t m 796 main st., monmouth. on, un. 24 aug. 17 o in, ul. 1 aug. 18 n d di , ul.

6 aug. 20 , ul. 13 aug. 18 o, ul.

20 aug. 19 d ul. 27 aug. 17 nd , se t. 14 24. 933 9999 h 93 main st. 3rd flr., waterville. i in un. 16 25. 873 7000

PHotos PHoto dana diHiuLio russ diLLingHam fiLe PHoto courtes cLocKwise from toP Left: ardeLia trio, courtes

C m a , olin arts center, 75 russell st., Le iston. Kate gilmore: in our way, un.

9 oct. 7, 786 6158 C m a , 1 Bath rd., Bruns ick. the ivory mirror: the art o mortality in renaissance euro e, through aug. 20. 725 3275 C m C a , 21 winter st., rockland. william wegman reel to real, un. 10 oct 22 screen: Po Killed culture, un. 13 se t. 18 ohn walker: from seal Point, un. 24 oct 29.

C C m a 5600 may o er Hill dr., waterville. marsden Hartley s maine, through un.

18 marsden Hartley s maine uly 8 nov. 12. Brand ne terri c: ale Kat in the 1950s, through aug.

6 gra hic matters: george Bello s world war i, through se t. 3. 859 5600 C C 863 main st., westbrook. mary Brooking, udy schneider and caren marie michel: sky woods sea, through uly. 9252 9897 f a m 16 museum st., rockland. american treasures from the farns orth, through oct. 29 celebrating maine, a r. 5 oct. 29 andre wyeth at 100, through dec. 31. marguerite orach an art filled Li e, un. 17 an. 07. 596 6457 f f a do nto n Portland. isit local galleries, studios, and museums. ul. 7 g g 146 middle st., Portland.

Henry isaacs uly 6 29. colin Page aug. 3 se t.

2 772 2693 m m m , 234 washington st., Bath. through these gates: maine shi yard Photogra hy 1858 2016, through se t. 24 see the Light: the Preservation o midcoast maine Light houses, may 27 oct. 22. 443 1416 P m a 7 congress s ., Portland. artist s choice: Photogra hs rom the udy glickman Lauder collection, through uly 9. 775 6148 a , 121 center st. everclear, un. 08 reverend Horton Heat, un. 10 ratt, un. 15 afi, un. 22 three dog night, un. 24 ultimate aldean e erience, un.

25 Blackberry smoke, un.30 iggy marley, ul. 7.

772 8274 h m f 29 mount desert st. ani nah Burnett, clara cho ning, uly 2, 9 Brass enture, uly 5 christo her ohnson, uly 7, 13 “ne com osers” forum, uly 11 allison Kiger, flutist friends, uly 12, 15 antonio galera Lo e , uly 18 claudia shaer, ma Li chit , uly 20 o era theatre, uly 21 aney choi, enni er de ore, ihea Hong Park, uly 22 a night, uly 23 acadia outdoor concert, uly 26 Bob noonan memorial concert, uly 28 festival gala, uly 30. 212 222 1026 t h h , 86 to nsend ave., Boothbay. sharon shannon, uly 6 oan osborne, uly 8 alasdair fraser natalie Haas, uly 13 ienna Piano trio, uly 14 the subdudes, uly 15 guy davis, uly 19 girls, guns glory, uly 20 im messina, uly 22 Kevin Kiley friends, uly 27 stee canyon rangers, uly 28 cherish the Ladies, uly 29.

633 5159 , 650 congress st. irish sessions, every wednesday. the Library Band, un. 16 sass uatch, un. 23. 774 4111.

C u S L ’ C l, state st.

Brush w/ Brash the i C a at meCa seduces ith 50 knockout modern aintings that challenge traditional genres. the sho is ree, but leave your resum tions about art at the door. don t miss o ening night, uly 20.

699 5025. ana e iuli ii il n an as ''

What Does a Moxie Drinker Look Like? find out or yoursel by attending m d f . Lisbon falls ill celebrate the 35th annual mo ie festival ith a a rade, re orks, car sho , reci e contest, and chugging challenge: “not or the aint o heart or eso hagus,” uly 7 9. 353 3000.

C eer

the m g invites you to celebrate summer ith unlimited sam les o stunning lo cal beers in maine on t P . this S S f on July 2 includes bre ing classes and a battle o the beers. tickets are 20 105. Proceeds go to the maine Bre ers guild, su orting the cra t beer industry. on august 5, catch a S in concert at thom son s Point even i you ve already seen them on d i i .

10

summerguide 2017 55

Covers Camp (June 19 - 23) Jr Rock Camp (June 26 - July 7) Songwriting & Recording (July 17 - 21) Ultimate Rock Camp (July 24 - Aug 4) Girls Rock Camp (Aug 7 - 11) Jr Rock Camp (Aug 14 - 25) Covers Camp (Aug 28 - Sept 1)

125 Presumpscot St, Portland Ages 11 & Up Jr. Rock Camps Ages 8-11

For more information or to register go to www.maineacademyofmodernmusic.org/camps or call 207.899.3433

Presents

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a celebration o ukuleles and great music, ul. 29. d ’ P 1 railroad st., Bangor. ack ohnson, un. 7 nickelback ith daughtry, ul. 7 rod ste art ith cyndi Lau er, ul. 14 sam Hunt, ul. 21 rise above fest, ul. 22. 358 9327 e , 575 congress st. Loc dab feel good music tour, ul. 1.

747 5063 ortlandem ire.com ’ , 92 Bournes Ln., ogun uit. ames montgomery Band, un. 30 onathan ed ards, ul. 2 arlo guthrie, aug.

2 immy Keys, aug. 26. 646 4526 m a m m 125 Pre sum scot st. unior rock cam , un. 26 ul.

7 aug. 14 25 song riting and recording cam , ul. 10 21 ultimate rock cam , ul.

24 aug. 4. 899 3433 m a , 20 myrtle st. rodrigue , un. 25 david Blaine Live, un. 30. 842 0800 m S P P . slightly stoo id, ul. 2 Billy currington, ul. 7 311, ul. 8 Primus ith clutch, ul. 25 Pat Benatar neil giraldo, ul. 26. 358 9327 L S 181 state st. the Portland a orchestra, un. 15 the eremi ahs, un. 20 dan mills and ason anick trio, un. 22 B Barham o american a uarium, un. 25 cadence, ul. 08 dave carroll, ul.

18. 761 1757 P C m h , 504 congress st. s ose, un. 23 Lucero, un. 25 missio, un. 29 the mallett Brothers Band, un. 30 da n, ul. 19 avier rudd, ul. 22 drive By truckers, ul. 27 donavon frankenreiter, aug. 11. 956 6000 P h m e 57 tem le st. damn gina and the red eye flight cre summer residency, every mon. un. se t. the maine dead Pro ect summer residency, every wed. un. se t. thommy Kane, ul. 21. Live music mon. through sat. 805 0134 P L C 180 commercial st. i nyl ta , une 10, 23 andre Bailie friends, une 11, 17 oint chie s, une 15, 21, 30 ryan Halliburten the still the grum s une 20, 27. 775 2112 S t , 609 congress st. Pride Port land e uality maine s Pride night dance Party, un. 17 Kasey chambers, ul. 10 robert earl Keen, ul. 17 Phantogram, tycho, Heathered Pearls, ul. 26. 956 6000 S L a C 76 congress st, Portland. Bob dylan s 75th: a Birthday tribute sho Per ormance by magic 8 Ball, un. 25. 775 5568.

S m a C , 695 dug way rd. richard thom son solo acoustic, un.

20 ellis Paul, un. 30 onathan ed ards ul.

3 the Press gang, ul. 21 slaid cleaves, ul.

29th. 935 7292 t 1 2C t , 35 cottage st., Bar Harbor. chris ross the north, un. 2 Lori mcKenna, ul. 14 288 0829 t ’ P Portland. the shins, un.

At DiMillo’s, we brag.

For a good reason!

Our amazing Head Chef, Melissa Bouchard, is the ONLY female chef in Maine to be named Chef of the Year by the Maine Restaurant Association! That says everything about her food, served every day starting at 11am!

Stop in soon and taste what you’ve been missing!

In the Old Port • Portland, Maine 772-2216 • www.dimillos.com Full Marina Services: 773-7632

New England’s One-Of-A-Kind Restaurant

Always FREE parking while you’re on board!

16 fleet fo es, ul. 27 glass animals, aug. 3 alabama shakes, aug. 5.

C t n 516 con gress st. Portland Playback theater, the rst friday o every month. 775 2900 ctn5.org t 1 2C t 35 cottage st., Bar Harbor. ian Harvie and Kenneth neels, un. 24 288 0829 L , 36 market st. Laugh shack comedy every thursday.

L S 181 state st. Bob marley, un. 10. 761 1757 S a 98 main st., madison. maine event comedy, ul. 14. 696 5800 S t , 609 congress st. tim and eric: 10th anniversary a esome, ul. 11. tour, 956 6000 S m a C 695 dug way rd., Bro n ield. Bob marley, ul 27th. 935 7292 S

g , 538 congress street. o in n un. 28 o n dow , ul. 12 nd B d o , ul. 26 , aug. 9 i , aug. 23.

828 5600 m i f f , 17 rail

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Established 1975

O CEANFRONT GRILLE & BAR (150 Yards North of the Pier)

Seafood • Burgers Steak • Lobster Frozen Drinks Lil’ Mates Menu

A fun, relaxing atmosphere!

Eat in or on our beachfront patio!

OPEN SUMMERTIME 7 DAYS A WEEK LIVE MUSIC FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY 124:30 PM 2 Cortland Avenue Old Orchard Beach

207-934-2058

www.SURF6oceanfront.com

TheaTer aT monmouTh season 48 | June 24 - sepT 24

Three daYs oF rain

red VeLVeT

The Learned Ladies

FamiLY shoW mY FaTher’s dragon

by Richard Greenberg directed by Kate Bergstrom

by Molière directed by Sally Wood

by Lolita Chakrabarti directed by Jennifer Nelson

adapted by Dawn McAndrews directed by Adam Blais

macbeTh

by William Shakespeare directed by Dawn McAndrews

oTheLLo

by William Shakespeare directed by Catherine Weidner

FaLL shoW peTer and The sTarcaTcher

by Rick Elice directed by Dawn McAndrews

TickeTs $10-$32 | 207.933.9999 | TheaTeraTmonmouTh.org

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road s uare, waterville. the 20th anniversary celebration, eaturing s ecial guests, a ards, and orld remiers, ul. 14 23. 861 8138 S d ound op Farm, 3 round to Lane, damariscotta. a reading and discussion o o n in ion in in wi din in ood , uly 28.

350 6823 L g m h S , 489 congress st. first friday fiction ith author morgan callan rogers, uly 7.

P a , 273 congress st. chris tina Baker Kline ill give a reading rom i o o d, uly 13. 536 4778 y h S , 118 east elm street, armouth. as art o the 2017 Lecture series, colin w. sargent ill read rom and lead discussion on Bo on o, aug.

17. 846 6259 y h a , 4 Pine grove Lane, ork. a reading and discussion o Bo on o ith colin w. sargent, se t. 21.

P L , 34 river road, Bu ton. a reading and discussion o Bo on o ith colin w. sargent se t.

28. 727 5898. a

P

64 Pine st. t o to

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June 22 – July 1

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TICKETS ONSALE NOW!

Aug 3 – Aug 12

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Aug 17 – Aug 26

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melier erica archer or a themed alk through a Portland neighborhood ith ine and s irit tastings aired ith deli cious oods, every sat. 619 4630 a m L r camden. the Bicycle coalition o maine s Lobster ride roll ollo s inding, country lanes and the breathtaking rockbound coast ast lighthous es, lu ines and lobster boats. ul. 23. d f , 305 college st, Le iston. dancenow: Lida win eld and Betsy miller., ul 7 dancenow: christal Bro n and insPirit., ul 8 sho tell: david dor man dance., ul 8 david dor man dance., ul 13 15 sho tell: oe uni er., ul 18. 786 8332 h f , 34 commercial street, Bel ast. national Boat Building challenge, Boat sho , Pancake Break ast, 6th annual Bug run 5 K, Live Bands and more amily un. aug. 18 20. f , 32 main street, Bidde ord. si artici ant teams ill each build their o n com ass ski , a 10 oot motorboat, over the course o the eekend. the estival ill also include nautical themed e hibitors, local youth non ro ts, a friday evening event at engine ith s ecial guests the Lo ell Brothers, kids activities, ood and music, and more, se t. 16 17.

Paint for Preservation 2017 10 T H A N N UA L W E T PA I N T A UC T ION B E N EF I T Sunday, July 9, 2017 | 4:00pm - 7:30pm Join award-winning artists in celebrating Cape Elizabeth’s natural beauty and ecological significance at a stunning venue overlooking Richmond Island in Cape Elizabeth. A catered reception, elegant music and a lively auction of “wet” artwork painted en plein air throughout the weekend make this an event not to be missed!

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THE GLASS MENAGERIE July 20-30, 2017

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C e g t 2017 1000 shore road, ca e eli abeth. tour coastal maine gardens in eak summer bloom.Pro ceeds bene t the fort williams Park founda tion, ul. 15.

C i C 515 main st., Bangor Bangor state fair, ul. 28 aug. 6.

561 8300 C a &C S , cumber land fairgrounds, 197 Blanchard road. over 200 talented maine artisans ill be e hibiting at one o maine s largest art and cra ts sho s, aug. 11 14. g S m a orion st, Bruns ick. the Blue angels soar into maine, aug. 26 27 687 0158 L t L m f sno Pond s Bo l in the Pines, messalonskee Lake, sidney, a Lake music food truck festival, eaturing live acts and delicious street ood, aug. 19. 476 6976 m L f , rockland. steamed lobsters, amily activities, arts and cra ts, live entertainment, aug. 2 6. m S &C , Port land. a eek o learning, intervie s ith leaders, hands on orksho s and social events, un. 19 23. m S , augusta civic center.

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s ecial e hibits and orksho s and over 500 uilts on dis lay, ul. 27 29. 216 7358 n e woodstock Lin coln, ne Ham shire. o ering three days o a uni ue blend o beer in used social events, educational orksho s and its signature saturday night: on taP tasting event the eekend ill eature over 30 ne england Bre eries, un. 23 25. 745 6621 P C m f Han na ord Hall, university o maine Portland cam us. season finale: songs and serenades, aug. 11 mendelssohn, synchronisms elgar, aug. 12 family concert, aug. 13 Phantasy uintet Brahms trio, aug. 17. 320 0257 P S C , 68 commercial street, maine whar , Portland. real Pirates o en no .

P S &S S east ern Promenade, Portland. free celebration eatures ood, re orks, and music, ul. 4. d , Boothbay Harbor. 55th annual wind ammer days estival, eaturing a eet o tall shi s, local ood and amily activi ties. un. 25 ul. 1. 504 0242 o i d oo to submit your o n event listing, visit: ort landmonthly.com ortmag submit an event

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SUMMER ART SALE 2017

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THURSDAY, JUNE 29 • FRIDAY, JUNE 30 • SATURDAY, JULY 1 10AM-6PM Don’t miss Collect, MECA’s 2017 invitational art sale, featuring the work of MECA faculty, staff, alumni, students, and friends. Build your collection while making a difference - a portion of each sale benefits MECA’s Scholarship Fund.

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summerguide 2017 71

The Martian Chronicles

PHoto nasa:Ksc

charged ith e haustive ma ing o the red Planet or naSa’ C m , scientists S m o cali ornia and a y o Bruns ick have no resorted in a 1.5 kilometer sector to using touristy monickers rom the Pine tree state. no this “marginal way” is really rom a ay some nestkind e am les: ogun uit Beach, mars Kennebec, mars mt. Battie, mars. other ne martian attrac tions: frenchman Bay, s ring Point, ca e eli abeth, rock ort, isleboro, isle au Haut, frye island, Bar Harbor uad, Porcu ine dry Ledge, Bald rock Ledge, witch Hole Pond, south est Harbor, otter cli , cranberry island, inalhaven, north Haven, damariscotta Lake, mt. Katahdin, Boothbay Harbor, allagash, the desert o maine.

this is Maine, too.

As Maine goes, so goes the universe. Haunted by those unnerving old movies chilled by Leon Theremin’s woooo wooow oooooo music, created by his instrument of the same last name?

Twenty years after Portland Conservatory of Music dared to host the opening ceremonies for the first-ever International Theremin Festival in 1997 (attended by Dr. Bob Moog, of Moog Synthesizer fame), there are still good vibrations–the world over. Copycat celebrations include St. Petersburgh, Russia (2011) and Lippstadt, Germany (2012). By the way, as CBS News reports, the theramin “just might be world’s strangest, spookiest musical instrument. You can see it…you can hear it…but you can’t touch a Theremin. “It’s like you’re finger painting in space,” says [NYC’s] Rob Schwimmer. “Playing Theremin is like having sex with ghosts.”

courtes

more than once, g L has suggested e re institute the or drug dealers . good time to revisit hy e no longer have one. the last ublic hanging in maine ent very, very rong. it took 17 minutes to hang d on november 20, 1885, in t . for the gory details, see our story “maine s Last e ecu tion,” uly august 1989.

ue isLe news mi cLocKwise from toP: tHeremin worLd Pres

Weirdly,

the na

ed and the Living

maine summer resident norman mailer rote about am hibious landings in d nd d. But even he didn t o n an am hibious vehicle himsel . this summer, you can. B grindle indle o winter ort is selling on craigslist or 50,000 a o . Larcs Lighter, ghter, am hibious resu ly, cargo ere used by the u. s. army rom 1952 2001. grindle urchased a air last year, ho ing to use them or his marine contracting business. no , it s your turn.

Death Spiral imagine an island haunted by the shade o a lighthouse kee er s i e ho as locked inside the to er, her screams unheard until she died. the ne o era o o , com osed by Kristin Kuster ith libretto by megan Levad, sounds un, but sadly, it s set in the “other” Pres ue isle an island on Lake Huron in northern michigan. okay, maybe our Pres ue isle doesn t have a light house because it isn t really an island . But, hey, e ve got lenty o ghosts, and lenty o other lighthouses. o o

summerguide 2017 73

P o rt l a n d a f t e r dark

Night is a

Cabaret Add a soupçon of naughty to your evening with Portland’s premier cabaret troupe.

By Olivia Gunn

damon loucks

I

“It’s clear to me I must meet the woman behind the pasties.”

nterested in something a little different? Dare to feel a little uneasy? OK, Portland. Let’s do this: “Willkommen! Bienvenue! Welcome! Im cabaret. Au cabaret. To cabaret!” The Forest City’s irrepressible new Voulez-Vous Burlesque troupe is doing for Maine what Le Chat Noir did for Paris in 1882 and Christopher Isherwood’s fictional Kit Kat Club did for 1930s Berlin.

Geno’s Rock Club isn’t my typical Friday haunt, but after a week of nine-tofive routines, I need to add a little more spark to my night. Like Sally Bowles, I’m craving the “strange and extraordinary.” The evening’s entertainment, presented by Voulez-Vous Burlesque, is playfully entitled The I F*cking Love Food Show. With a name summerguide 2017 75

rtL an d af t e r dar

like that, it’s sure to add, well…something.

We order our drinks and boldly sit at the table closest to the stage. It’s dark save for a lone inflatable cupcake placed center stage.

Soon the emcee emerges, dressed in a chef’s coat and hat and armed with the sassy crudeness that brings to mind Joel Grey’s performance as Master of Ceremonies in the 1972 film version of Cabaret. He rouses the crowd into a state of anticipation and titillation worthy of a decadent night at the Moulin Rouge. h hat a Sh The first act begins with a strange and amusing interpretation of Ronald McDonald’s old nemesis, the Hamburglar.

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On the stage, we watch a man overcome by his love of the Happy Meal burger.

Once the performer is stripped down to his skivvies, he’s joined by a life-sized version of his obsession: a hamburger that playfully peels away two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions, and a sesame seed bun to the strains of Jimmy Buffett’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” The show continues in suitably surreal and playful fashion, with acts ranging from a raucous tap routine to a rendition of the Chordettes’ classic 1950s pop hit “Lollipop.” My fiance’s favorite is a two-person dance choreographed to Warrant’s 1990 hair-metal classic, “Cherry Pie.” In fact, the male contingent of the

the o the audience seems articularly to the artist s use o ."

damon LoucKs

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$

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The Matchmaker

of Maine

P audience seems particularly responsive to the artist’s use of whipped cream during this performance. No matter what your level of prudishness, the good-natured atmosphere of the show makes it hard not to find yourself laughing and cheering along while sparkles and breasts go flying across the stage.

During the second act of the evening, we’re introduced to the star of the show, producer/director Sundae Morning. Her routine involves tempting three unsuspecting volunteers from the audience to eat ice-cream sundaes with their hands tied behind their backs. Ms. Morning cackles as three men take the stage.

With little else than a glittering maraschino cherry topping her head in the way of clothing and a mouth full of Bette Midler-esque lines, she captures our attention even as three grown men wolf down ice-cream hands-free in front of us.

My cheeks hurt from laughing by the time she leaves the stage. It’s clear to me I must meet the woman behind the pasties.

taSty deLight hristina Mosher, a.k.a. Sundae Morning, grew up in Lyman, Maine. At 21, she attended her first drag show. “Look, my brother says ‘hoss’ instead of house and drives a lifted truck, if that tells you anything,” she says of her upbringing. After performing in shows doing “faux drag” (a female performance that adopts the style of male drag queens), Mosher eventually began performing at the now-closed Studio 55, directing a weekly drag performance.

Since Studio 55’s closure in October 2016, Voulez-Vous Burlesque, Mosher’s 13-member troupe, still puts on two cabaret performances per month. Each show, written and choreographed by Mosher herself, takes about three weeks to produce, including the design and creation of costumes. Who knew a bucket of rhinestones costs $15?

But it’s all worth it in the end, says Mosher, who notes that her confidence on stage has sometimes surprised audience members.

“I’ve had women tell me that they wish

rt La n d a f t er da r they could do what I do, but just aren’t comfortable. I think to myself, ‘Why is it radical for a size-14 woman to be comfortable showing her body?’”

Many of Voulez-Vous’ performances poke fun at popular culture and current events–as any good cabaret act should.

The troupe’s Inauguration Day show at Geno’s a few months ago took audience members by surprise. Mosher recalls a few men being a bit taken aback at just how much fun the troupe had with Mr. President. “At the end of the day, you’re going to offend somebody,” she says with a cheeky wink.

“There’s a time and place for everything.”

This summer you can catch several cabaret performances by Voulez-Vous in Portland, including I F*cking Love Food Part Two at Portland House of Music and Events on June 15 and When You Wish Upon a Bra, a Disney-themed performance in August. If you’re still not sure you can handle a night out with VoulezVous, ask yourself, “What good is sitting alone in your room?” ■

4:25PM SEBAGO LAKE

Brewed for times like these.

SBC.20556.SimmerDownLake.PrintAd.PortlandMag.6.2017.FR.indd 1

summerguide 2017 79 3/30/17 10:24 AM

2017 2017

h u n gry e ye

Tasting Maine with

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BA R BA R A LY N C H in tervie

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“erudite bad girl�

L talks to blind ournalist sel con essed lobster rookie n L about m and e eriencing our state through the sense o taste. summerguide 2017 81

W

orld-renowned chef Barbara Lynch’s latest achievement among many was to be named among Time magazine’s “Top 100 Most Influential People of the Year” in recent weeks, making it clear this South Boston native has more than a simple story to share.

As Lynch tours the East Coast doing readings and signings of her justreleased memoir, Out of Line: A Life of Playing with Fire, she’s opened up her private life for public scrutiny. As a blind journalist, I listened to her book and felt there were still areas to explore, so I made arrangements to meet with her in person. at h me ith LynCh Barbara Lynch has invited me to her Massachusetts home on a Saturday in early summertime. It’s a beautiful, sunny day, and we sit at a table on a porch adjacent to her kitchen.

We’re joined at the table by Char-

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lie Petri, whom she married in 1997 (they are currently separated) and their daughter, Marchesa, who was born in 2004.

Because I’m blind and hard of hearing, the details of my surroundings are ab-

sent until Marchesa introduces me to her dog and then begins describing the yard in vivid detail–giving special mention to her trampoline–granting me a cool sense of sight.

This and the positive energy felt from around the table ease my preinterview anxieties, born from the fact that my knowledge of food is limited and how my lack of sight can make me feel awkward.

Fortunately all present extend themselves, quickly establishing a comfortable rapport with me as we embark on Lynch’s stories of her career, Camden, and cooking for the Kennedys. the maine C nneCti n aine has played a role in Lynch’s life throughout her starry professional career. When I ask her about her connection to the state, Camden crops up first. “I’m doing a dinner at

M

from toP: dining room, u.s. emBass , toK o rtKL for u.s. state dePartment BarBara L ncH gruPPo

hungry eye

Photo by Brea McDonald

ustic 6 5 5 Wal nut Hil l Ro ad, N o rth Yar m o u th th ebar n o n wal nu thill.c o m

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hungry eye

“I’ve actually done the lobster taste test: Maine versus Cape Cod. Maine won.”

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from toP: menton

“Maine donated 00 pounds of lobster for aroline ennedy.”

Without being asked, she answers the obvious uestion Why not serve Massachusetts lobster to the ommonwealth’s First Family’

the Camden [Harbour] Inn in the fall. I was supposed to do one in June, but it conflicted with an event held by another restaurant up in Rockport called Nina June.”

Nina June is one of three restaurants owned by Sara Jenkins, a close friend of Lynch’s who joined Lynch on her first trip to Tuscany.

“I went for two weeks with Sara to her parents’ holiday home. I went back a month later and cooked for her wedding,” Lynch says.

With Nina June being Jenkins’s first restaurant in Maine (her two others are in New York City: Porsena and Porchetta), Lynch told me she didn’t want to infringe on Jenkins’s event. “So we decided to just do Camden in the fall,” she says.

wa ne cHinnocK BarBara L ncH gruPPo

–Barbara Lynch

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On its website, the Camden Harbour Inn describes Lynch’s dinner as a “onetime only event in honor of her new book Out of Line.”

Chef Owned Serving Dinner at 5pm Reservations Recommended Open Tuesday - Saturday, Closed Sunday & Monday

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ut it’s Lynch’s longstanding fondness for Portland that prompts her to dub it “a great city” based on connections stretching from videos she’s done for Jay Loring’s popular Congress Street eatery, Nosh, to buying premium seafood from Browne Trading Company in the Old Port.

“We use them a lot,” she says of the supplier to New England’s top-tier restaurants.

“Oh, and I’m an ambassador for the lobster–Maine lobster!” Lynch adds, recalling Caroline Kennedy’s request for her to cater a Fourth of July party after Kennedy

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hungry eye was appointed U.S. ambassador to Japan

by Barack Obama in 2013. “[Maine] donated 600 pounds of lobster for Caroline Kennedy.” Without being asked, she answers the obvious question: Why not serve Massachusetts lobster to the Commonwealth’s “First Family”?

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this food for me and stick it in the fridge? I want to finish it later on.”

“Hell yes! I thought,” Lynch writes. “I found that so endearing. Girl, I’ve got you covered. Then I finally felt that I could breathe–I’d satisfied my hostess and I’d earned the right to relax.”

Although Lynch agrees she doesn’t get to Maine “enough,” she quickly lists her favorite places: Portland, Rockport, Acadia, adding, “I like Freedom, Maine.”

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ecause Maine lobster is better than Cape Cod lobster–at least that’s how I feel.”

“Colder water,” Petri offers in explanation.

It’s obvious Lynch’s support of Maine lobster hasn’t waned since a 2012 interview in Portland Monthly, when she weighed in writes. “So I planned a classic New England on the branding controversy about calling meal, the kind that I knew she had to be any lobster a “Maine Lobster.” missing: seafood chowder, lobster rolls, and “I’ve actually done the taste test: Maine apple tarts for dessert. An all-American versus Cape Cod,” she told us. “Maine spread for Independence Day.” won. You should hold onto it [the MaineBut there was an added bonus to the viscaught brand].” it. Although Lynch knew Kennedy didn’t The Maine lobster contribution to Carodo a lot of television, “She stunned her staff line Kennedy’s Fourth of July event in Japan by agreeing to do a food show with me,” did not go unmentioned in Lynch’s memoir.

Lynch recalls in her book. “At the end of the “Whenever Caroline had eaten in my PortlandMagSummerGuide:Layout 1 5/26/17 1:17 PM Page 1 show, [Kennedy] said, ‘Will you wrap up restaurants, I felt deeply honored,” Lynch

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“ ’m nervous about my lack of experience with lobster. Without eyesight, it’s a mystifying endeavor to say the least.” ina ivingstone

my L Ster enC unter SPi y eLuSive deLiCi uS Inspired by Barbara Lynch’s reverence for Maine lobster, Nina Livingstone sets herself the task of eating a lobster dinner with only her senses of touch and taste to guide her.

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Ke in grad

Choose an adventure to fit your style.

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espite my New England roots, I’ve never faced a fully shelled lobster, let alone had to crack it myself. My college education didn’t teach me anything about the importance of handling a lobster–and I had eyesight back then!

Seventeen years ago, I completely lost my sight, having had it for half of my life.

During those earlier years, I’d seen lobsters but never studied the art of cooking them, taking them apart, and savoring what each part had to offer. Instead, I opted for something less arduous to tackle, such as devouring steamers or slurping oysters from their shells.

But here I am, headed to Boston for my first lobster engagement–without eyesight. I wasn’t quite sure how to prepare myself, but I resist the urge to detour via the local hardware store to purchase tools en route.

Once I’m served my first full lobster, I

roll up my sleeves and touch the crustacean resting on the plate in front of me. I need my fingers to learn its various parts. Navigating the lobster, I work to pull the tail apart from the body. I try not to yank too hard, for fear I’ll send the rest of it flying across the room and onto someone else’s table–a classic scene for sure, but not what I’m aiming for.

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he entire process takes some time.

I have to figure out what I’m holding; how to use the lobster cracker to break the shell; which instrument is designed for delicately pulling meat from the legs (you actually suck it out); and how to retrieve the knuckle meat. Perhaps I should have stopped at the hardware store after all!

Once I make a successful separation, my work has just begun. I’m nervous about my lack of experience, particularly as I probe for the lobster meat. Without eyesight, it’s a mystifying endeavor to say the least.

I discover that I like the claws and knuckles better than the tail. This comes as a surprise, since the tail is typically the most coveted part of the lob-

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“ ext time, ’ll ask arbara ynch to recommend a Maine lobster tour. fter all, she says Maine has the best lobster around.” ina ivingstone

ster–and it’s certainly the easiest to get to. But without sight–relying totally on taste, texture, and the tactile experience–I find the claws and limbs more delectable, making all that work and exploration worthwhile.

Next time, I’ll ask Barbara Lynch to recommend a Maine lobster tour. After all, she says Maine has the best lobster around. I just hope they’re the easiest to take apart, too! riter ina ivingstone ho is blind and hard o hearing covers a ide range o topics in her or hich includes columns ilm and public spea ing. o learn more visit her ebsite estination irth or contact her at nina destinationmirth.com.

Sales | Service | Slips | Storage www.YarmouthBoatYard.com 207-846-9050 |      summerguide 2017 89

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“Nights and days came and passed And summer and winter and the rain.

And it was good to be a little Island.

A part of the world and a world of its own All surrounded by the bright blue sea.�

Margaret Wise Brown, The Little Island, Maine, 1947

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he ie at sund dge. he regr und hile e departs

nr app s t d k is in the nd a ruise ship rtland ar r.

hen John Muir described an “infinite storm of beauty,” he must have had a Maine island in mind.

In particular, House Island deserves that distinction.

h uSe iSLand m aCreage 1 ooking for front-row tickets to the show? The northeastern half of House Island, with nearly 4,000 feet of shorefront and sparkling views of Portland’s skyline, tops the summer market.

Like a beckoning finger, the enclave’s new long pier draws you in from Casco Bay. This is the part of House Island once known as the ‘Ellis Island of the North,’ where hopeful immigrants from Europe and the Mediterranean were processed from 1907 to 1937. Three years ago, when Vincent “Cap” Mona bought this vast parcel, the ghostly imprint of the Immigration Center was still here, despite generations of neglect and the presence of a strangling invasive plant, Black Swallow wort, that was “killing everything in sight.” Lovely in its ruins, the old Doctor’s Cottage still watched

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There’s something about an island that “draws you in,” says Vincent “Cap” Mona, who fell for the 12.8-acre northeast half of wild, historic House Island and bought it on September 30, 2014.

from the top of its hill. Near the water’s edge, the weatherbeaten wreck of the former Immigration Intake Station seemed a total loss, exploding with decay.

Who is this Don Quixote who would tackle such a challenge, fully restoring this lost kingdom while never tilting at windmills but instead harnessing solar power? Once triumphant, why would he ever relinquish this dream?

had already set. In the darkness, I wasn’t able to see far into the island. Later on, I’d realize it was so overgrown with invasive vines it would take quite a lot more effort, inspiration, and money to bring it up to the level where it should be.

My next thought was, this isn’t Florida; it’s not New York or Connecticut. Maybe I could afford this island! i

hat did this island do to s eep you a ay

The very first time I felt it was coming back from a dinner with our friends in his boat. It was a gorgeous fall night. The weather could not have been better. I was on Cloud Nine, breathing in the sweet, crisp air of Casco Bay, and my friend mentioned this island was for sale. The first thing that came to my mind was how gorgeous the surroundings were in close proximity to Portland Harbor. The sun 92 P

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a t meets asco ay. hat as it li e to explore here

When the realtor took us to the island, we were in awe of the potential this property could hold in the future. But it was a mess. The ever-growing and deadly invasive Black Swallow wort had killed a vast amount of native vegetation and trees. There were three 1907-era buildings. When we walked into each building, it was almost overwhelming–the degree of neglect, the water damage from roof and wall leakage. But being in the construction industry for many de-

$6.9M

cades, I knew that while the challenges were obviously numerous, there was reason to be excited here.

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hen we first went into the lodge, it was reminiscent of the 1960s lobster or crab shacks familiar along Maine waterfronts.The historical significance was not quite obvious until we understood this was the Ellis Island of the North in its day. The realization of the island’s former use was beyond amazing, especially when we found a “Quarantine: Keep Out” sign in the old intake station [now remodeled as Cappy’s Lodge].

We sensed it further when we walked to the grassy knoll going up to the old doctor’s house on top of the hill (which is now Christina’s World, named for my former wife and the famous 1948 painting by Andrew Wyeth).

Because House Island is hidden in plain sight in Casco Bay, it’s likely only a few lobsterboat crews would have heard the hammers ringing while you were making repairs. Has word gotten out about the improvements?

It was an unbelievable experience with fantastic results. I hate even to put it on the market, but I realize I’m a contractor. I did my part.

The new owner has got to be a hospitality expert with experience in events for corporate and families as well as continuing [to develop and host] our very upscale weddings. Our first high-end wedding included a massive fireworks display and fabulously catered meals.

Our first high-end corporate event was for Mercedes-Benz International last September, showcasing the new models.

There’s some fast company. How did you pull that off?

We were approached by a top New York City marketing firm wanting to rent our island for ‘an international high-end auto manufacsummerguide 2017 93

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he s uare t undati n the r er i igrati n enter a aits a ne uture.

as anyone elp-revie ed ouse sland so to spea

A local TV reporter pulled me aside on the island. He said, “I can’t believe that [during one of the worst winters] you took three dilapidated old structures from 1907, took them down to the bare bones, and rebuilt these three skeletons into these gorgeous houses.”

We’d also built a brand-new caretaker’s cottage. All of the properties are solar powered with backup generators, new wells, new septic fields, and all new plumbing lines. Our brand-new dock is 375 feet long.

It cost almost $450,000. he sales port olio or your hal o ouse sland suggests that s uare eet o the larger immigration building is grand athered as a commercial location or a possible island bouti ue hotel in the uture. id you sense this rom the beginning

No, we really didn’t consider the 10,000-square-foot foundation as a footprint for future building originally. Instead, we were busy cleaning up the is94 P

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land. I was personally there for a number of weeks, helping to clean up the mess.

[Developer] Mike Scarks, the former owner, had already removed 10 or 15 huge dumpsters full of junk that the previous owner had hoarded and left on the island, including a large fire engine.

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n the very beginning, our plan was to renovate just one house per year. But later on, we realized how important that 10,000-square-foot structure is. We, or the owners after us, could have one beautiful bed-and-breakfast or a small, quality boutique hotel, along with [guest residences] in some of the other historically significant structures.

We’re negotiating with Central Maine Power to bring power and internet to the island. ean hile you ve ventured bold use o solar po er. hat as the inspiration there

In the beginning, we felt solar would be the best bet because the power company wanted over $500,000 to bring in power. But

now they need us, and the price is reduced by more than half.

We were very fortunate to have a good solar-power solution contractor, Maine Solar Solutions, owned by Sam Zuckerman. hat s the most telling advice someone else gave you about the island hen you bought it

Some people I knew warned me that the cost of transportation was going to be unbelievable. They were correct!

Looking back, we spent almost $1 million in transporting lumber and products, equipment, tools, concrete, vehicles, sand, gravel, mulch–even the trailers and RVs and the food required to house and feed a small army of workers each day. uring exploration and excavation hat did you ind

We found a graveyard where a British sailor is buried. We also found a keg made by Watney Combe Reid & Co. Ltd., of London that dates to the 1800s. [We traced the company records in] the national archives.

Some liquid was still in the keg.

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House Island in the 21st Century 200 : Hilda cushing dudley, hose amily lorded over the isle since the early 1950s, dies. Kno n to generations o Portlanders as the o ner o House island tours. ac cording to mona, she s buried on the island.

A poor dead baby seal. hat does ouse sland sound li e

Sometimes, music floats in across Portland Harbor at night. here do you thin ne buyers might be standing hen they all in love ith ouse sland

Anywhere. If you get within eyesight [of a dream], anything draws you in. –By Colin W. Sargent 96 P

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S 201 scarks sells the north eastern hal o House island to incent ca mona o three Palms design, na les, florida, orida, or 2.2m. the e irm s eciali es in historic res torations.

201 the city o Portland rtland designates all o House island as an historic area. m 201 michael scarks, 61, dies in maine medical center. His heirs still o n the fort scammel hal o House island.

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hat s the most unusual thing you ever sa that loated onto your shore

m 201 Hilda s son, Harold cushing r., sells House island in t o aves 500,000 or the fort scammel hal , and 2.5m or the immigration center hal to local develo er mi chael scarks. scarks is kno n or his hilanthro y and daring ro ects like restoring the nis sen Building and the ormer maine national Bank building. a longtime helico ter ilot, he ies over the island, starts the cleanu rocess, and onders the uture.

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hunting.” A mere two-minute boat-taxi ride lands you in North Haven.

However deferred her dream, Arey has a knack for gardening with love. She’s transformed this place. “When I married my husband it was barren,” says Arey of the now tree- and wildflower-covered isle. “My husband and I spent the last 40 years planting trees.”

Taxes: $2,274 r n iSLand 000 aCreage In the early years of the 20th century, Dr. Arey Alonzo Butterfield of Boston decided

to divide his wealth between his two sons.

Each would be given his own island–all they had to do was head to Maine and pick out their favorite. We don’t know which island the goofy brother stumbled onto, but the smart one fell in love with this small island in the corner of Nicatous Lake.

Current seller Phil Brown bought this forested jewel to escape the press of modernity. The problem was, did he dare to give it a new name? Surrounding Brown Island

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greer iSLand 000 aCreage 1 candal alert! For decades, owner Elizabeth Arey believed she could build her dream home on this small isle off Vinalhaven. After all, Greer Island had been in her family for over a century. But in 2005, the town told her to dream on. Vinalhaven placed Greer Island under “Resource Protection,” prohibiting any development that exceeds 600 square feet or involves plumbing. Most scary for Arey: “The town surveyor thought the island was under three acres and didn’t survey it. Greer is 5.1 acres in size.” Since then, the town hasn’t budged, and the island remains restricted for now.

Greer Island still includes a ramshackle shelter near its rocky shoreline. Only 1,000 feet from the shore is Geary’s Beach, a photogenic landing with views of Penobscot Bay and Isle au Haut. “We had a rowboat.

We used to go mackerel fishing all the time.

We’d catch lobsters and cook them on the shore. [Our kids] had a lot of fun treasure

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Corrections. “You spend 11 months there, and you need to get the hell out.”

Taxes: $734.

Ph e e iSLand 000 aCreage 0 11 n the 1930s, no roads reached Sebec Lake. Enter an indefatigable dentist who decided to build a cottage on tiny Phoebe Island, its .11 acres set just 100 feet from the shore. Materials were shipped out on the ice after the lake froze. Eight decades later, the cottage is still standing.

Nowadays, Phoebe is a birdwatcher’s paradise. “We watch our eagles’ nest with the adults going in and out and the young learning to fly,” says seller Jay Bailey. Ospreys, cormorants, and raucous kingfishers do drop in. Because the cottage sits so close to the water, stunning views are right on your doorstep. “You’re having your coffee at the table in the morning with the loons swimming by you,” says Bailey. “The loons even sound different out here. They have a lonelier cry.” All the while, hummingbirds battle for position at feeders outside the cottage.

The cottage has been renovated with an updated interior of polished pine panels and

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five acres are covered with mature pine and birch trees. “There’s a little network of trails, and you can swim almost anywhere off the island.” Because while you’re luxuriating in all this silence, who’s going to stop you?

As for Phil Brown, escape was exactly what his family needed. “We lived in downtown Boston only three blocks from the “Cheers” bar on Beacon Hill,” says Brown, a former employee of the Department of

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are 22,370 acres of state-protected land, including the elaborate coves and beaches of Nicatous Lake, on whose waters not even jet skis are allowed to make waves. Good riddance, interlopers!

The main house is surrounded by four guest cottages, a free-standing summer kitchen/living room, and a generator cabin. “You have all the creature comforts,” says agent John Calannino. The island’s

“You’re away from the big, stupid boats going by, the planes…everything,” Bailey says. “This place is spiritual.”

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Convenience, privacy, master bedroom, ensuite, first floor bedrooms and full baths, generous decks. 8 foot ceilings, bamboo flooring throughout, island-cut lumber. Very efficiently and inexpensively heated. Large lot, attractively landscaped and priced. $335,000.

OCEANFRONT CEDAR-SHINGLED CAPE ear-round , 00 square foot home with three bedrooms, two full baths, refurbished kitchen, dining room atrium doors to shore-side deck. uaint and co y wooded location. 1. acres and 375 feet of bold shoreline and beach. reat views, near historical society, town tennis, and sailing. $5 ,000.

WONDERFUL THREE-BEDROOM FAMILY HOME, ALMOST 30 ACRES of gardens, orchards, meadows, and woods conveniently near the heart of Islesboro activities but privately sited. Beautiful open concept floor plan, living space, hearth, hardwood and tiled floors and tiered decks. Magnificent mature pines welcome you. $375,000.

MEADOW POND MUST SEE! 1850 s reek evival completely renovated 1 , historic detail preserved. .5 acres on pond. weeping views, lovingly landscaped meadow. itchen, living room, two bedrooms, two full baths, maple & ash flooring, recessed lighting, skylights, easy to heat, large septic for expansion. wo detached guest studios, green house, wired tool shed. Large sunny garden spots, seasonal stream and varied hard and soft woods. Interior ust painted. A real gem $ 5,000.

DOC’S HARBOR PRESTIGIOUS ADDRESS uperb panoramic sunrise views of ast Penobscot Bay. hree-bedroom oceanfront cottage at water s edge with deep water and almost five wooded acres in Pripet. Acreage includes surveyed 3-acre road front lot suitable for development. ust steps to a pleasant sandy beach and a short sail to Castine. Idyllic $3 5,000.

SPECTACULAR PENDLETON POINT OCEANFRONT HOME Prime ark Harbor shorefront location for this two-bedroom plus, two full bath year round residence. Breathtaking westerly views and sunsets from almost every room. Cathedral ceilinged living room with exposed beams and large fanlight windows. Meticulous attention to detail. 0 feet of beach and ledge on . acres edged with evergreens. Long circular drive and grassy meadow enrich this special setting. $ 5,000.

PENDLETON POINT ROAD CIRCA 1905 our bedroom home near ark Harbor village off the road, lush 1.8 acre lot. Hard pine floored dining room, eat-in kitchen, bay window sunroom, living room.

Master bedroom, guest bedroom, two and half baths, and two sky-lit garret bedrooms. Breakfast deck, private back yard and cabin office or bunk room amidst delightfully mixed mature hard and soft woods. $ 5,000.

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rustic wooden furniture. Phoebe Island sits only a hundred feet from the shore, with two acres of shoreline and a utility boat for loading and transportation included in the sale. Bangor International Airport is an easy hour’s drive away. Thirsty for beauty? Sebec Lake sits directly south of Mt. Katahdin and the Hundred-Mile Wilderness.

“You’re away from everybody,” Bailey says. “You’re away from the big, stupid boats going by, the planes…everything,” he says. “This place is spiritual.”

Taxes: $850. high iSLand 1 7 m aCreage 2 ccording to Charles McLane’s Islands of the Mid-Maine Coast, the first recorded deed for High Island was conveyed for just $65 back in 1805.

Factoring in inflation, that’s a 1300-percent increase in value.

Between then and now, 26-acre High Island (one of the Muscle Ridge Islands off Spruce Head) underwent extensive quarrying in the early 20th century. Two large

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boarding houses hosted hundreds of quarrymen, among them many Italian immigrants. Conditions were poor. Food often consisted of “hard-boiled eggs like golf balls or doughnuts that would make good links for a stone chain.” To make matters worse, “local liquor laws led to periodic raids by the county sheriff and the confiscation of the red wine necessary to the morale of the luckless Italians.” The pink granite from the quarries made it all the way to Philadelphia, where it was used to make bridge seats for the Pennsylvania Railroad.

The boarding houses are long gone, but the steep ledges of the quarry, the stone foundations, and the beautiful granite

wharves (built for loading the stones) survive to this day. Among the spruce woods and heirloom apple trees are several new building sites, meaning the next chapter in this island’s history is still to be written.

Taxes: $1,914. hite iSLand 1 7 000 aCreage 1 Sailing enthusiasts, set your course for White Island. “We’re surrounded by a lot of very interesting boats,” current owner Bill Boyd says.

And they’re drawn here for a reason. Brooklin’s Wooden Boat School and the renowned Brooklin Boat Yard sit just a short ride across Eggemoggin Reach, a stretch of water that the summerguide 2017 103

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“The neighborhood is really exceptional,” says Boyd. “We know people on almost all the islands out here.”

Taxes: $4,690 n rt n iSLand 1 00 000 aCreage 0 If you’re hoping to expend no more effort than unpacking your bags, Norton Island

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Boat Yard calls “the best cruising grounds on the coast of Maine.” nce you’ve tied up at the island’s deep-water dock, turn your gaze inland toward a sweep of granite bluffs and sandy beaches surrounding sixty acres of forests, fields, and freshwater springs. On a clear day, your seaward view extends all the way to the rolling greenery of Acadia National Park. A cozy A-frame cottage and guest house provide three-season shelter on the northernmost point of the isle.

And who says island life is isolating?

(Continued on page 250)

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t fr

m Staff &

The Ice Age

ire reP

rtS

ensured that everyone living in the State of Maine

today is “From Away.” We are all exiles from a prior existence, dreamers, immigrants.

So any accurate description of Authentic Maine has to begin with, “No One is From Away.” Or “Everyone is From Away.” Your pick. Being a native used to come with bragging rights, but that was before we’ve come to understand we’re all descended from, on a timeless level, migrant tribes. No one has anything to prove here.

We’re all looking for something; we’ve all arrived. We’re home if we say so.

Smarting from being called a “year-round summer person,” I once proclaimed, “I’m a Mainer, born right here in Portland, in the same hospital as Stephen King–the Maine Eye & Ear Infirmary.” The skeptic narrowed his eyes and asked: “Really? What floor?”

Eureka! We shared a smile.

summerguide 2017 117

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e s neag eans arr ing pla e re alling the ti e hen nati e pe ple this regi n tra eled thr ugh ater a s in their ir h an es and re uentl had t st p t arr their an es thr ugh r ugh and rapid areas a rding t nelle i le reese in m i a a a a

romantic oet samuel taylor coleridge once imagined “a sunny leasure dome ith caves o ice.” eah, e ve got that y Sarah m

D

eep in the wilderness stretching south from the shadow of Mt. Katahdin is a quiet treasure. A milelong hike from Hurd Pond along rocky trails conducts you to the Debsconeag Ice Caves of Millinocket.

During the Ice Age, heavy boulders were jammed together by glaciers , forming a subterranean cave that even in the height 118 P

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of summer cools with snow and ice.

Steel rungs hammered into the rock wall lead you down through the narrow chasm and into the darkness. The rungs have an icy bite as you grab them and lower yourself into the caves, the temperature dropping with each step of the descent. Out of the sunlight and away from the sounds of the forest, time stands still. At first glance, you

may expect to discover Gollum crouched in a dark crevice. But the sweep of a flashlight reveals the cave’s hidden beauty. A wash of ice across the rock glints and shimmers as long stalactites of ice taper from the ceiling.

If you don’t suffer from claustrophobia, you can scramble across the icy rocks to explore the smaller caves branching off from the main cave. Do not attempt this alone. ■

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The Ice Caves

o donneLL suitter inset: wiLderness edge camPground

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Bowdoin at 100

maine s ioneering arctic e lorer kickstarted cro d unding be ore it as cool.

Sarg en t

ickstarting was first conducted on April 28, 2009, according to Wikipedia. But the Schooner Bowdoin was created through crowd funding that began in 1918. Responding to a slick marketing illustration that showed what the arctic schooner might look like amid the icebergs once she was launched, three hundred fifty benefactors each paid $100 to drum up the $35,000 needed to construct this legendary vessel.

If only one of these original marketing “brochures” still existed. Since this is the Authentic Maine issue, we’ve taken the trouble to discover what may be the last of the brochures from a private collection. Signed by Admiral Donald B. MacMillan himself, the back of the heavy cardboard reads: Auxiliary Arctic Schooner Bowdoin To be built for the MacMillan Arctic Association at East Boothbay, Maine, in May-July, 1920.

(Signed) D. B. MacMillan Rescued from neglect, Bowdoin is now the pride of Maine Maritime Academy.

Bowdoin was declared the official sailing vessel of the state of Maine in 1986. In 1989 Bowdoin was designated a National Historic Landmark in recognition for her significant role in Arctic exploration. ■

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vitaL StatiStiCS L : 88 eet n a : william H. Hand S : Hodgdon Brothers, east Boothbay, maine f a C : august 23, 1921 S 10 knots v a 28 C Bowdoin served 27 months as a navy shi in world war ii. she as decommissioned on may 16, 1944. she as ac uired by maine maritime academy in 1988.

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hidden de Pth S

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n the Western Passage of Passamaquoddy Bay that divides Maine from New Brunswick lurks Old Sow, the largest natural whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere– an intriguing and unpredictable force of nature. Robert Godfrey has lived in Eastport for the past 26 years and is the self-appointed president of the Old Sow Whirlpool Survivors Association. “I have passed through it many times, but I’ve never had a truly scary experience. Anyone that makes it through can join the club. If you don’t survive–well, you can’t join!”

There’s no precise origin behind the whirlpool’s porcine name. Some suggest it refers to the sucking, snorting noise of the whirlpool. “Look, it does not sound like a pig,” Godfrey insists.

His theory is that “sow” is a misspelling of “sough,” meaning either a rushing or murmuring sound of wind, water, or the like, or a subterranean drain or trench.

Godfrey’s knowledge of the littleknown maritime phenomenon caught the attention of Mythbusters, who consulted with him on the feasibility of placing a crew member in the “sty” of the whirlpool. “I advised against it–strongly.” After all, he knows Old Sow and her capricious tidal moods.

The whirlpool’s unique and violent hydrology is the result of a complex confluence of ocean currents distorted into a roiling mass by the topography below the surface. During incoming tides, vast quantities of water surge through the confined channel between Deer and Indian Islands, driven north through a 400-foot trench at the base of a 119-foot underwater mountain at Deer Island’s southern tip, before being forced

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into another deep trench. Countercurrents rushing through Friar Roads to the south and from the St. Croix River to the north contribute to the general confusion.

The organization Artsipelago (“One Bay, Two Countries”) says the whirlpool “can be seen from the end of Clark Street, Eastport.” Godfrey recommends “Deer Island Point Park Campground” as the best spot to watch from. Peak viewing time is two hours to high tide.

For a glimpse of the sea hog at her most cantankerous, spring tides (which occur twice a month with the full and new moons) and stormy weather are the times to watch. The rush of water “produces a huge area of chaos,” including a vortex,

gaping holes, and even shoots of water up to 15 feet. “Old Sow has claimed 11 lives to date that we know of,” says Godfrey. “The arrival of motorized engines has dramatically decreased the danger. The most recent death that may be attributed to Old Sow happened in the 1990s. The body of a student from St. Andrews University in New Brunswick washed up on Carlow Island. There’s no way of knowing for sure if Old Sow was to blame, but it certainly could have caused his boat to tip.”

Recent inductees into the Survivors Association have tall tales to tell. “Most recently, a fellow from Calais was observing the whirlpool with his sister and wife in their motor vessel when they found themselves getting dragged in,” Godfrey says. “A circling weir stake caught in the propeller and stopped the engine. He said the stern was at a 15-degree angle to the water. His wife and sister had to dangle him over the boat to unlodge the propeller.”

It’s not just the vortex you have to watch out for. “A friend of mine recalled sailing his dory from Deer Island and dropping into a hole in the water that was lower than the top of his 12-foot mast,” Godfrey recalls.

Old Sow’s powers have decreased in the past century as a result of the aborted Passamaquoddy Tidal Project of the 1930s that saw three hydro-dam causeways constructed between Eastport and Carlow Island.

The dams reduced the tidal flow, thereby taking some of the spite out of Old Sow’s surges. She’s still deadly, though: a glimpse of her vortex can conjure the harrowing last minutes of Drag Me To Hell when the perky blonde protagonist is spun mercilessly into the netherworld. ■

from toP: aBdieL fiLe PHotos

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Spirit of the there s an ancient magic in maine s highest mountain.

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of Gluskap, creator of the Earth? Whatever your choice of spirits, the aspect of the supernatural is strong.

In a piece for Sierra Magazine, Jason Mark points to Robert Moor’s book On Trails for an elevated example of the sublime as well as the tension that existed between Penobscot guides and the rusticating explorers who employed them. “In 1846, Henry David Thoreau made a failed bid to climb Mount Katahdin, the highest peak in the state of Maine. He and two companions

made their way to its base by canoe, guided by an old Indian man named Louis Neptune, who advised Thoreau to leave a bottle of rum on top of the mountain to appease the mountain spirit.”

Thoreau and his party “got lost in the fog and never made it to the summit,” according to Moor.

Time has erased the trifling detail of who ended up with the the rum.

But Moor notes that while descening, alarmed by the savage majesty of the

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m dern mythS hether or not they’ve heard the song “Climb Ev’ry Mountain,” some Penobscot natives are shy about climbing to the top of Mount Katahdin.

That’s because it’s holy ground.

Is it Wuchhosen, the wind bird, who lives up there, flapping his wings to create great storms? Or is it the Spirit of Katahdin, jealous of his solitude. Or is it the dominion

Lin

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Mountain Ancient Connections

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mountain’s hunched shoulders around him, Thoreau experienced a 150-proof insight. Sierra Magazine calls it a “meltdown”: “This was that Earth of which we have heard, made out of Chaos and Old Night.

Here was no man’s garden, but the unhandselled globe. It was not lawn, nor pasture, nor mead, nor woodland, nor lea, nor arable, nor wasteland…Man was not to be associated with it. It was Matter, vast, terrific…rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks! the solid earth! the actual world! the common sense! Contact! Contact!”

arry Dana grew up on the Penobscot River and currently works to teach Wabanaki culture to native youth to preserve the traditions of his people. We talk to the tribal leader about the spiritual significance of the mountain for the Penobscots.

entire area that makes up the mountain, from the top down to as far down as the blueberry ledges, including all the designated campgrounds.

hat as your irst impression o atahdin and hy is the summit so spiritually signi iant to enobscots

Yes, I’ve been to the top of Katahdin. I’ve climbed it in search of enlightenment, guided by my intuition. Indigenous cultures all over the globe look to the mountains for spiritual insight. Too many explorers and climbers confuse this inner voice of mountaintop connection with a need to “conquer” the mountain. I think this to be unfortunate because, should they not reach the peak, they feel as though they have failed. Too much ego robs one of spiritual happiness.

I first visited Mt. Katahdin as a freshman in high school on a class trip. I was blown away with what I saw and have returned every year to maintain that connection.

Why would I agree to give, convey, or teach about that which is sacred to me and my people, the Wabanaki? Because if I don’t, it will be even more likely that people will continue to disrespect the mountain. When I say mountain, it’s not just the top but the

hat are your personal eelings about the top o atahdin ave you ever been there

(Continued on page 128)

summerguide 2017 125

Take The Leap

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northridgemountainguides.com

n i oni one ndred year old log lodge at water’s edge on Rangeley Lake

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M unt Katahdin e ati n eet rthern ter inus the Appala hian rail atalities sin e isit s e yea t Ba ter tate ark he na e Katahdin es r an ena i Indian rd that eans ain untain.

Barr ana ith his daughter aulian ana ith. his is taken at atahdin trea a pgr und. We d ust ust nished ur annual ere nial run t the untain. aulian did a rela run ith her hus and ean r Indian Island. I hiked iles r ns n t atahdin. We nished at al st the e a t sa e ti e. aulian has ade this annual ere nial urne t atahdin her entire li e.

an you tell me i it s true that many members o the enobscot ribe re use to climb to the very top o atahdin

Why do we natives say not to go there?

Think about who we say it to: white people who need to conquer a sacred place. That does not lead to good karma. For my tribe, we see Katahdin as the place of our birth, where life began. It can’t get any more special than that. We still live within its shadow and honor our birth by returning to the mountain. We go to the top if need be for spiritual enlightenment and ceremony, some simply for the pleasure that comes from looking out across so many hundreds of miles. It’s medicine for the soul. But we recognize that it is a mountain with an angry mood at times. It has its own weather– storms that can pop up without warning.

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aking u is the name o the game hen . Parking s ots are rst come rst serve, so a 0 rom your cam site is a necessity, as it s a rom the S P . i you re looking or a relatively rare as that is on Katahdin , ark your car at r , here a to the C P rovides access to the 2 2 S t , the least strenuous o all the trails. the most o ular routes or day hikes are u the cathedral trail and do n the Hunt trail, or ust u and do n the Hunt trail, hich is also art o the a alachian trail. t is kno n as the e : a 1.1 mile scramble bet een Pamola Peak and Ba ter Peak on a trail that in certain sections is only . it is this reci itous traverse that has claimed the most lives to date. in all, since 1963, there have been 23 recorded deaths. t , the terrain is demanding, and carrying a large amount o ater is crucial, but the rom the to o mount Katahdin are truly incom arable.

The old stories about not going to the top of Katahdin were more of a caution. Be mindful of why you feel the need to be there.

Keep an eye on the weather. hat exact place in aine is most authentic to you and hy there s such a thing as a cradle o authenticity in aine here and hat ould that be

I do not view Katahdin as part of Bax-

ter State Park, nor do I view my homeland as “Maine.” So when asked, I can’t say what or where is “authentic.” Maine is not a place unto itself. This area that includes the ocean, rivers, lakes, and mountains is all one living ecosystem dependant upon the whole in order to thrive. It’s one living organism. We call it Wabanakigok: Land of the Rising Sun. ■

dana meagHan maurice

We’ll never truly know why Louis Neptune told Thoreau what he did, but I see it as a word of caution. And a bottle of alcohol as an offering? I have no idea! That makes no sense and is definitely not in keeping with true native religious thinking. But Penobscots are really good at playing tricks and pulling your leg…

Katahdin Calls

Barr

n ouis eptune advised horeau to bring a bottle o rum to place or the spirit at the top o the mountain. hy

from Left: courtes

Spirit of the Mountain (continued from page 125)

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f you’re looking for “beauty overload,” Edna St. Vincent Millay is your guide to the exquisite. The local Rockland girl’s secret retreat, where she rose above sea level to listen for “the ticking of eternity,” was the summit of Mt. Battie in Camden.

As the New York Times reports, “Mount Battie, where Millay was inspired to write Renascence, rises sharply [above the] panorama of the Lincolnville-Camden-Rockport area, that 10-mile stretch of coast often described as one of the prettiest along the Eastern seaboard. On a clear day one can look, as Millay did, to the mountains west and north, over the bay and islands to Acadia to the east, and down to Camden Harbor and Rockport to the south. Near the small observation tower is a map identifying the islands that dot the bay, and a plaque commemorating Millay. Renascence ends with her lying on the solitary mountaintop discovering how easy it is to be in touch with the universe.”

To channel Millay (1892-1950), you can either 1) work your knuckles raw as the impoverished child of a mom who had to move from house to house to stay ahead of bill collectors in Rockland, or 2) book a room at the gorgeous Whitehall Inn in Camden, where Millay stunned the annual Waitresses’ Ball one summer’s end with her recitation of Renascence, later published in Atlantic Monthly. A visiting tourist was so moved upon hearing Millay dramatic rendition that after the show, she offered to give her a full scholarship to Vassar.

After Millay was world famous, she bought Ragged Island (off Orr’s Island). For decades, lobstermen gossiped about seeing her nude on her private isle. ■ 130 P

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A rding t the t. in ent es r t. in ent s spital in reen i h illage here her un le re ered ust e re she as rn.

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The past, present and future of chamber music are one at Kneisel Hall.

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e f 1934 2017 , editor o the a e u a Te e ram later o ner o the P restaurant, Portland note: eddie fit atrick, ho came to Portland a ter orking as a re orter in she ield, england, near his native ashington, recommended e do a eature on the lurid li e and iery death o sangerville native S h in this summerguide issue o o nd on . see our story, age 171.

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Maine

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ne morning early in April of 1969, the snow was either going or gone, but it was raining steadily and everything was mud. These were the days before the burning and open-landfill dumps had been closed for environmental reasons. Citizens took their own trash to the landfills. At that time, the South Portland dump was on Highland Avenue, just after the high school.

You drove in, parked your car as near to

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the edge of the landfill as you thought you could possibly travel before it sank to its axles, and then you waded through the seagulls, in ankle-deep sludge, before you let your garbage bags fly. It was a really miserable and degrading experience.

As I hiked and hurled the last of my trash from my yellow Volkswagen Bug into the landfill, I looked at the guy who’d been keeping pace with me, bag for bag, from his big American station wagon. I

was an English immigrant who had never seen a member of the upper echelons of government or the ruling classes ever lift a finger in manual labor. The man who was matching me trash for trash in the mud on a cold and miserable day at the town dump I recognized as Ken Curtis, a fellow resident of South Portland and our governor. I didn’t say anything except to myself. This is America–but that’s Maine.

–Eddie Fitzpatrick summerguide 2017 135

v

Brook deLorme,

abby shahn,

37 c

7 s “I fell in love with my neighbors when I first moved up here. I knew this old woman who was the most wonderful storyteller. I was talking with a neighbor recently, and we were reminiscing about the old times and the old timers.

Then we looked at each other and cracked up laughing because now we are them.”

t p “I like the pragmatism, individualism, simplicity, and frugality traditionally embodied by Mainers. But eccentricity abounds, a surprise bite into all that simplicity.”

erik orgensen,

a m c a p “My first impression of Maine was potential–that sense of room to grow, room to change, of possibility. Maine is not complete–it is still making itself.” p

5

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dp p “When I think of Maine, it might be one of hundreds of sailing trips off the coast or a snowshoe hike in South Arm, but it’s always a sensory feast.”

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Heather Beveridge,

3 n p p “Growing up, my family and I used to sail in Maine every summer. I love the coast, and I have this sort of nostalgia about it. There’s also not a lot of yahoos here getting in my way.”

shoshanna freedman,

31 c l o p “There’s a quality in the air that changes as soon as you get to Maine.

It’s a certain touch of freshness and clarity, a tingle of ocean salinity that you can feel on your skin and in your nose. It gives me a happy shiver every time.”

titi de Baccarat,

41 a p “The landscapes, the fishing industry, and the presence of French culture and language are constant reminders of my home country, Gabon.

What makes Maine special for me is the feeling of having an American community attentive to the issues and concerns of immigrants.” summerguide 2017 137

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Bill greenberg,

5 r p “I share my time between Boston and Portland. Boston is a high-energy, high-stress environment. As I drive down the dirt road to my Maine cottage, I regain my equanimity.”

Peggy greenhut g

“Moving to Maine from New York, where one is just a bleep on the radar among millions of people, was a welcome change.”

59 a i c “When I was 14, my parents moved me from Long Island, New York, to Rangeley, Maine. For the first time, this kid from New York could see shooting stars, gulp handfuls of blueberries from the field, bring home armloads of lupines, and spy the awkward grace of a moose.”

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30 n s “It’s most special to me at 5 a.m. on the beach when no one else is around.”

nate mosseau,

2 p p l p “Working at the library, I see people from the whole community. It’s exciting and empowering to me. It’s a mix of all the right things.”

maga ine

on deLuca,

4 c ’ g w “In Maine, your neighbors look out for you. It’s also the most beautiful state–but it’s the people and the respect they show for each other that keeps me here.”

onah Breem,

49 c ’ g p “I grew up in the mountains in Syria, so I enjoy the weather here, no matter the season. The simplest way I can put it: Maine is a home where I can feel comfortable. It’s a feeling. It cannot be explained–you just have to feel it.” ■

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Langsford Road Lobster & Fish House

Lobsters, Steamers, PEI Mussels, Oysters, Littlenecks, Haddock, Wild Salmon, Halibut, Swordfish, Sole, Scallops, Lobster Meat, Maine Crab Meat, Smoked Salmon, Finnan Haddie, Smoked Herring, Wild Large Raw Shrimp, Cocktail Shrimp, Sushi-grade Tuna, Scottish Salmon We cook your lobsters & shellfish for free!

Come visit one of the last working fish houses in beautiful Cape Porpoise Harbor.

We buy seafood directly from fishermen on our own wharf.

We take pride in offering our customers the freshest and highest quality seafood we can obtain.

We also ship lobsters and seafood directly to your location using overnight air.

To place your order: Call: 207.967.1950

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ou’ve read every travel guide and food blog on the web. You’ve plotted out a meal-by-meal itinerary. You’ve even packed your stretchiest pants. Now it’s time to forget everything you’ve heard about the Maine food scene. If you’re looking for real local flavor, you’ll find it just as easily off the beaten track–and you won’t need to wait as long for a table. Remember– with over 300 restaurants in Greater Portland alone, you’ll need to plan a lifetime of vacations to experience the real taste of Maine. What a delicious challenge!

L Ster taLeS First things first: the headline act. It’s no secret that Maine lobster has secured an international reputation as an affordable

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luxury in recent years. From Italy to China, chefs are creating inventive new ways to serve Maine’s prime export. But in Vacationland, you can’t beat the classic lobster roll. If you have an entire afternoon to spare, you can try your luck in the lines that snake along the sidewalk to that ohso-hyped seafood joint on Middle Street in pursuit of the much lauded, award-winning Brown Butter Lobster Roll™. But if you want to mingle with tourists and Main-

othing will single you out as a greenhorn faster than ordering a 3-pound lobster.

ers alike (who know to visit such places only during winter months), drive instead to The Lobster Shack at Two Lights Park or to Red’s Eats in Wiscasset. Both draw sizable crowds, but counter service ensures you’ll be rewarded quickly with a fluffy white roll that’s perfectly toasted and laden with tender, fresh lobster meat. At The Lobster Shack, you won’t regret indulging in an extra basket of fried whole-belly clams to munch as you watch the surf roll onto the granite shelf of shoreline beyond the picsummerguide 2017 141

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nic tables. Red’s owner Deborah Gagnon is known for piling over a lobster’s worth of meat into each roll she serves, so skip the sides here.

Or (and this is so Mainer-like), go across the street in Wiscasset to Sprague’s, where the lobster rolls are fantastic, there’s a better view, and there’s better parking.

Y

es, parking is a factor. That’s just one of many reasons why locals will always love DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant. The seafood is great (try the fried lobster), and when they open up the upper decks during the summer, the views are unbelievable. Not to mention, this place is legendary for continuing to serve diners during The Perfect Storm of 1991. This boat knows how to handle the waves in style.

Heading south, the Colony Hotel and Resort, Arundel Wharf Restaurant, and Mabel’s Lobster Claw are beyond just trustworthy–they’re essential summer destinations. The Colony is the ultimate Kennebunkport experience–and locals love the views that are so beautiful they stop time. The inside local track is to enjoy the shore dinners they serve on Friday nights and the poolside brunches they offer from July through December.

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Arundel Wharf is right on the Kennebunk River and a local favorite for decades. (Side note: They serve unmatchable swordfish). Stepping through the door to Mabel’s Lobster Claw is like taking a trip back in time. The dining room is virtually unchanged since its launch by Teedy Hutchins in 1952. Robert and Stephanie Fischer took over in 1996 and last year saw 50,000 visitors pass through their tiny eatery. “We have the same booths made from the same knotty pine since

ny s D nut h n B lt n treet has een running r ears sin e the earl s. heir reak ut usiness se ret er e the est lasses d nuts in the uni erse.

this place opened. We even play the same music! A lot of the restaurants around here have moved away from the classic Maine fare. They’ve started doing something fancier, more exotic. Mabel’s has stuck with the same menu for the past 70 years: steamers, clams, lobster–the classics. We’ve been smart enough or fortunate enough that it’s worked! It’s what people want.”

Barnacle Billy’s is a summer staple for tourists, locals, and a blur of celebrities. Billy’s son Tim tells us that over 50 famous faces have graced the Ogunquit institution for a bite of its lobster roll, including Tom Brady and Christian Bale.

Want to be master of your own kitchen? Bayley’s Lobster Pound in Scarborough has been selling the freshest seafood for 102 years. The seafront store is still owned and operated by the Bayley family.

“We’ve sold over 30 million pounds of lobster in our time!” Talk about a family leg-

meagHan maurice

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acy. You know your takeout attraction is popular when you’ve been known to offer valet parking!

Lunch Counter Open Daily 11:00-8:45

Enjoy our Fresh Seafood from our indoor dining room or our outside picnic tables!

Fresh Lobster Rolls, Maine Shrimp, Clams, Scallops & Homemade Desserts

Lobster Pound Open Daily 7:00-8:45 Lobsters, Crabs & Clams unloaded fresh daily from our boats!

Ice packs are available for your convenience.

Lunch (207) 865-4888 • Lobster (207) 865-3535 harraseeketlunchandlobster.com

Family-Owned Old World Butcher Shop & Market

Come find all the great flavors of Summer in one store!

Open Daily 8am-6pm • 799-3374 • 101 Ocean Street, South Portland 144 P

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renton Bridge Pound may have only six decades of family-owned operations under its belt, but you can still rely on the Gascon family for fresh local seafood. You literally can’t miss this roadside lobster party on the Bar Harbor Road. The rookie mistake when ordering lobster from these establishments is assuming bigger means better. Nothing will single you out as a greenhorn faster than pointing to a 3-pound beast. Smaller means sweeter, so choose nothing bigger than 1.25 pounds.

Impress the lobster pound employees by knowingly requesting a “chicken” lobster (only 1 lb.).

There’s more! The shady deck at Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company provides a dreamy setting to enjoy a fresh lobster dinner. Serving Maine seafood since 1970, Harraseeket Lunch is an essential summer staple in South Freeport–so much so that it’s even been celebrated on The Rachel Ray Show and ABC’s The Chew.

There’s a price for lobster’s surging world celebrity–and we’re talking about dollars and cents. The upsurge in demand in recent years pushed market prices to an 11-year high last year, according to The Financial Times. Following a cold winter and a slow start to the season, expect to shell out a little extra for your lobster rolls this summer. eePin’ it CruStaCean Heading north, the humble crab roll is rather overshadowed by its more famous cousin. Jonah and Peekytoe crab, typically considered to be ‘bait-stealing by-catch’

by Maine lobstermen, are growing in popularity in southern New England as a tasty alternative to lobster. Is there room for another star crustacean on Maine’s menus?

Debatable. But if you’re feeling adventur-

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SPECIAL EDITION

TUMBLEDOWN MOUNTAIN

BY BILL AMOS

WINNER OF OUR “I LOVE

OUR MAINE LANDS” PHOTO

CONTEST

Places to Explore, Books

by NRCM Members, and Much More

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This special edition of Explore Maine is Allagash Wilderness Waterway—the so packed with ways to enjoy our great state that we expanded it to issue upon which the eight pages! In honor Natural Resources Council hard work and the individuals of the 0 th anniversary of Maine was founded—you’ll who made it happen, of the as well as NRCM’s special find an in-depth article Park, another of Maine’s role in that effort. This highlighting the unique gems. To keep year also marks the 100 th with that theme—special staff, board, and fellow anniversary of Acadia places that are federally members share with you National protected, owned by the their experiences and Park, and the lands proposed people of the United States—NRCM tips for exploring Maine’s for a new national monument. national wildlife refuges, sporting camps—this And don’t forget to download wilderness areas, Acadia year, even sporting gear!—and National our app (see page 7).

As always, you’ll also more ways to celebrate has to offer.—Allison Childs find books, blogs, Maine. Be sure to start Wells, Editor your planning now, and enjoy all of what Maine’s summer

Are you an author? Artist?

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PORTLAND, ME PERMIT NO. 454

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Late riSer In 2014, The Washington Post described brunch as “the most delicious–and divisive–meal in America,” citing the generation gap and cultural snobbery as factors in the respective delight and derision felt toward the fashionable ‘new’ mealtime since diners started ‘discovering’ it again. Politics aside, Maine has a wealth of eating options to kick-start your day. Loyal locals flock to the diminutive Palace Diner in Biddeford for some of the best fried chicken and French toast around, served inside a reclaimed chrome train car. News that owner Chad Conley will soon open Rose Foods, a bagel shop and Jewish-style deli in the former site of Brealu Cafe on Forest Avenue, has Portland foodies buzzing. Impress or irritate your local friends by visiting the deli before they do this summer.

Just a short walk from Monument Square, Isa Bistro is easily overlooked for its location on Portland Street, one of the roads less traveled by tourists in the city.

The black-and-white floor tiling and scattered bistro tables lend Isa a cosmopolitan European feel, though the menu is diverse and seasonal, inspired by chef Isaul Perez’s mix of French and Italian training and Mexican heritage. Book a table for Saturday morning and enjoy a plate of zesty huevos rancheros with a steaming cup of Tandem coffee. Once the bill is paid, you’re only a

PHOTO CREDIT: BILL AMOS

ous, Town Landing Market in Falmouth will present you with a deliciously succulent pile of fresh crab meat to silence even the most resolute lobster purists.

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summerguide 2017 145

DOCKS

FISH MARKET and SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

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short stroll from the Deering Oaks Farmers’ Market with its many laden tables of produce, preserves, and flowers.

If you don’t subscribe to the latte and avocado-toast aesthetic, Q Street Diner in South Portland does a bustling trade in eggs and pancakes in a welcoming, no-frills dining room that attracts a steady stream of regulars. Even those who don’t “do” brunch will be placated.

LittLe itaLy ubs, hoagies, heroes, grinders, or spuckies–what’s in a name? All you need to know is that the wonderful “Italian sandwich” traces its roots back to none other than Portland, Maine. The Italian-American classic came to life in 1902 at the hands of Giovanni Amato, who began slicing “submarine” rolls lengthways to be stuffed with with cured meats, cheese, vegetables, dill pickles, and a drizzle of olive oil to satiate the appetites of hungry dockworkers. His legacy is scattered throughout New England in the form of the Amato’s franchises. We recommend you visit

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the Scarborough branch before you settle into the sand of Scarborough Beach State Park, where lunch options are limited. By the way, if it’s not wrapped in wax paper, it’s not an Italian sandwich.

Though a Neapolitan will tell you it’s nobody’s Margherita pizza from Naples, some Forest City locals feel the Sicilian slice at Micucci’s Grocery on India Street is perhaps Portland’s greatest homage to Italian decadence. Originally created by local chef Stephen Lanzalotta (who later took his recipe and opened Slab on Preble Street), bite into the fluffy pillow of dough that comes smothered in sweet tomato sauce and molten mozzarella, the Micucci slice is the ideal pie to pick up before you hop on the Casco Bay Lines ferry to Peaks Island. “I usually order two,” a friend confesses. Just beware the envious glances from fellow passengers.

www lobstershacktwolights com

soloitalianorestaurant.com 100 COMMERCIAL STREET 207-780-0227

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hidden in PLain Sight In a city as overflowing with great food as Portland, certain long-established gems can slide under the radar in “Best Of” lists.

Case in point: Yosaku on Danforth Street,

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a place that’s endeared itself to actress Anna Kendrick, your typical Portland local.

She’s told us she doesn’t consider it a return visit to Portland unless she stops here. During the summer, the spacious patio–complete with Japanese garden and burbling fountain–is a romantic spot for masterfully presented sushi. Executive chef and owner Takahiro Sato is Portland’s first sushi chef and a master of his craft. Order the Maine Roll and marvel at the artful fusion of eastmeets-west as dainty maki rolls arrive with a lobster claw peeking out among the julienned vegetables. bove Pat’s Meat Market on Stevens Avenue, The Treehouse Café serves the Deering neighborhoods a decadent dinner menu in a magical setting. The second-floor eatery earns its name from the cozy rear deck covered by a canopy of tree branches and strings of colored lights. You’ll find the woodsy fairy tale continued inside, where wooden interiors, leafy accents, and more twinkling lights set the mood for a tasty blend of fancy pub food and affordable wines. ■

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Open 7 days | 11:30-8pm Check out our menu at OliversRestaurant.com (207) 633-8888 | 36 Cozy Harbor Road, Southport, ME 150 P

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A Unique Island Retreat

A Unique Island Retreat

Fifteen Lakefront Cottages • Totally Undeveloped Mountain Lake Boating, Sailing, Kayaking, Canoeing, Hiking Full American Plan • Wildlife & Bird Watching Same Family Ownership Since 1900

teen a e ront otta e otally nde elo ed Mo nta n a e Attean P.O. Box 457 • Jackman, ME 04945 BoatLakefront n Lake a l nCottages aya • nTotally anoe n n 207-668-3792 Fifteen Undeveloped Mountai www.atteanlodge.com Lodge Sailing, Kayaking, Hiking ll erBoating, can Plan ldl e Canoeing, B rd atch n Full American Plan • Wildlife & Bird Watching Same Family Ownership Since 1900 Same Family Ownership Since 1900

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sub ect and muse is a . one such artist travels over 6,500 miles rom a an to maine to ca ture his obsession on ilm. a

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nternationally acclaimed photographer Fujio Mino lives in his native Japan, where Fuji film has published his striking images. But another part of his spirit draws him to Maine and the magnetic power of iconic aids to navigation. We asked him to tell us what would make him travel thousands of miles to hit the shutter button of his camera–and to reveal his shooting notes and inspirations–Ed.

“In 1993, I came across a poster during my travels to Maine that sparked my interest in American lighthouses. The picture showed various colorful lighthouses. The symmetry and beauty between the beaming towers and keepers’ houses totally changed my perception of lighthouses as simple white towers.” –Fujio Mino, author of American Lighthouse Stories summerguide 2017 153

“Pull Quote”

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Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors Magazine

May/June 2017 • Issue 146 • AD PROOF Please review this printout very carefully, checking especially for spelling, grammatical, and factual errors. Please pay close attention to telephone and fax numbers, and to all the details in physical, e-mail, and web site addresses. Please note that any colors shown are merely approximations of ink printed on paper. We make every effort to be 100% error free. However, we cannot be held responsible for errors once you have approved this printout. Please check the appropriate box below, sign, and return to:

Julie Corcoran, Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors, Inc., 218 South Main St., Ste. 300, P.O. Box 566, Rockland, ME 04841 207-594-8622 • Fax: 207-593-0026

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hi gh Se a S

The Floating Opera A Journey of Discovery the a heera may be a amiliar sight on casco Bay, but did you kno she leads a secret li e moonlighting as a sea aring y PatriCia PierCe eri S

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ach summer, crowds flock to Maine State Pier to admire Bagheera and Wendameen, the handsome, twomasted wooden schooners moored here.

While many embark on day sails with Portland Schooner Company, few know that Bagheera, a 72-foot schooner designed

by John Alden in 1924 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, doubles as a floating university classroom.

When the winds and schedule are favorable, she becomes the temporary home and lab for students and professors from Saint Joseph’s College’s Environmental Science Semester, carrying the crew Downeast for two weeks to study climate change and glacial geology, field methods, marine ecology, and oceanography.

One bright, blustery morning, our team of students, scientists, and crew departs Portland Harbor and crosses Hussey Sound, passing far beyond the waters where the day-sailing tours travel. Most of the students have never set foot on a sailboat deck

before. Today we begin a two-week journey to the shores of Vinalhaven.

Captain Sean Canniff scans the sea, the deck, the sails, the passengers, the horizon.

“Ready about!” he shouts.

“Ready about!” crewmember Lindsay shouts back.

“Helm’s a-lee,” Capt. Canniff calls, turning the wheel. Sails deflate as the bow of the black-hulled beauty crosses the wind. With a thunderous pop, the boom swings over to starboard and everyone shifts to a stable position as the port gunwale is lifted high above the water. With the islands behind us, we head eastward into the vast ocean for our first research stop.

Cruising north along the coast, Capt.

Canniff glances at the Garmin plotter. summerguide 2017 161

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hi g h S ea S “There’s a shallow ledge underneath us.

That’s why these lobster pots are clustered here.” He gestures at the colored buoys apparently bobbing in the middle of nowhere.

“Nasty things. You don’t want to get tangled in them.”

The students look around. Beyond this zone there are no lobster pots, no lobster boats. While the ocean appears to surround us with sameness, the chart–and the lobstermen–say otherwise.

Tonight, we’ll hunker down for the night in a gray-shingled cabin on a small island ten miles out to sea. Bagheera cruises back and forth in the small cove, trying to drop anchor. The crew will keep watch over the schooner in four-hour shifts through the night.

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leeping gear covers the cabin floor.

Cooking equipment and coolers teeter in mounds on the cabin porch. Two students–Leia and Avery–are assigned to tonight’s kitchen duties. Avery likes to enter cooking competitions, so he’s rummaging through the spices.

Leia looks out at Bagheera, secure in her anchorage in the cove. “What would we do if she weren’t there in the morning?”

The next day breaks murky and gray.

Mercifully, Bagheera is still in sight. Once we are under way, the Captain sails directly to the first research location of the day: Monhegan Island. The students arm themselves with small, yellow field notebooks with waterproof pages.

Leia carries the CTS sonde–a tubeshaped, electronic multi-sensor probe– up from below decks and hands it to Ben and Joe. “I’m going to lay out the sonde cable first.” Ben stretches the electronic data cable along the deck to untangle it. “Hey, this is just what the crew does with the rope!”

The crew doesn’t even flinch at this flatlander use of “rope” instead of “line.”

“We need two people recording data:

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On the Easternmost Point temperature, pH, and dissolved oxygen,” says Dr. Teegarden.

Danielle and Emma crouch close by so they can hear the readings over the wind.

Ben feeds the sonde cable over the port side, then looks back. “How deep am I now?”

“You’re only at 1.2 meters, 13.48 degrees. Salinity is 32.12. Dissolved oxygen 95.2, pH 8.06.”

Ben runs more cable through his fingers, lowering the tube deeper.

On the starboard side, Emma hands a Van Dorn sampling bottle to Olivia, who lowers it into the water. They lean in to pull up the first sample.

Dr. Teegarden looks at the seawater in the bottle. “What do you see?”

“A lot of things floating. Wait! Are they floating or swimming?” Leia asks.

Olivia grins. “They’re swimming!

They’re copepods!”

“These are the bugs of the sea,” Dr. Teegarden confirms.

The students are directly in touch with the most precious foundation of the ocean’s food chain, pulled up with their own hands.

Meanwhile, Capt. Canniff watches the wind and currents, his attention never wavering. Occasionally he becomes more animated as the sea and sky reveal their secrets. Clouds are gathering.

After a while, the students tuck away the equipment and hunker down to scribble in their notebooks, focused on their findings. The wind intensifies and sprays seawater onto the whiteboard, the field notebooks, and everything in between. The sky darkens as Bagheera heads into a growing wind. Students pull wrists further into raincoat sleeves and hoods further over faces. Sheets of rain pelt down from an iron sky. Those on the starboard side brace for a downward plunge, and silver-green sea water pours over the starboard gunwale. Jess and Olivia scream in unison, then explode

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into laughter. The port-side students look over their shoulders and smile. They’ll have their turn when we come about. The bow plunges again.

“Carousel ride meets surfing!”

Jess shouts. gain, seawater engulfs feet and ankles on deck. The next research stop is going to have to wait for calmer seas.

Capt. Canniff checks the sails, the chart, the currents, and the students. He finds them all with feet braced against the bulwark, elbows interlocked, smiling.

Although this feels like an amusementpark ride, there are no seatbelts here. But the students have each other, a diligent crew, and watchful professors. The depths of the ocean are no longer blank, but populated, variable, alive beneath Bagheera as she cruises along the coast from island to island, back into a time when sailing ships ruled the sea. ■

A

atricia ierce ri son h. . is director o communications at aint oseph s ollege in tandish aine.

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Join us for a 2 1/2 - 3 hr. cruise on board our Brand New 47’ Lobster Boat! Watch for Whales, Seals, Eagles, and Porpoise as we pass by the Old Sow Whirlpool and East Quoddy Lighthouse. The Captain will Pull traps and add Starfish, Lobster, and much more to our ON BOARD TOUCH TANK! Fun and educational for the whole family!

Join us for a three hour cruise on board our 47' Lobster Boat!

Leaves 1:30pm from the Eastport Waterfront Adults $45.00 Children under 12 yrs. $30.00 Children under 5 yrs. $15.00

Watch for Whales, Seals, Eagles, and Porpoises as we pass by the Old Sow Whirlpool and Fishing Trips: 3 hrs. We provide all the gear. Same pricing as whale watch Call for more info and reservations. east Quoddy Lighthouse. the Captain will pull traps and add Starfish, Lobster, and much more to our ON BOarD tOUCH taNK! Fun and educational for the whole family!

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Photos by Don Dunbar

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P er S P e Ctiv e S

Chasing Frederick Douglass

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ith access to freedom in Europe and Canada, both through its ports and railroad system, Portland was a strategic point on the Underground Railroad for AfricanAmericans fleeing slavery, often aboard ships traveling to Maine from ports along the Atlantic coast. Frederick Douglass was a celebrated voice of freedom who addressed Maine’s anti-slavery organizations many times between the 1840s and 1870s, according to Dr. Maureen Elgersman Lee, Chair of Hampton University’s Department of Political Science and History. A bronze marker along Portland’s Freedom Trail in City Park at the corner of Pearl

and Federal Streets marks the site of the Quaker Friends Meeting House, where in 1847 Charlotte Thomas, a local abolitionist, witnessed a pro-slavery mob smash the windows and throw rotten eggs inside the building to disrupt anti-slavery speeches

by Douglass, William Lloyd Garrison, and Charles Lenox Remond.

Douglass rose to prominence in the antislavery movement following the 1845 publication of his Narrative of the Life of Frederick Douglass, an American Slave. “He often wrote to leaders ahead of pending visits to assist him in establishing a robust itinerary,” says Lee. Douglass would have given several lectures around Portland and other cities in Maine both before and after the summerguide 2017 167

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Civil War, according to Lee, and likely visited the Abyssinian Meeting House as well as the Quaker meeting house. a Lingering PreSenCe alking into the Abyssinian Meeting House today, the probability of his visit converges so powerfully you can almost see him here. Douglass would have entered the Meeting House through a central double-door, walking up a stairway to the vestibule and onto the sanctuary. The Reverend Amos Freeman would have greeted him and escorted him to the front of the room.

As an eager crowd gathered, Douglass could have watched the daylight fade from the three large windows set in the east and west walls and felt the shadow of the windowless rear wall on his back. Oil lamps would have lit the room. The keen eyes and rough hands of the men who labored as seamen, stevedores, and dock workers would have been familiar to Douglass, who had been a caulker in Baltimore. Seated beside their husbands, wives, upright and proud, would have been patting the sleepy heads of children. The parents wanted their sons and daughters to read, write, and feel the dignity of a house of worship where no seat was prohibited from a black person. Douglass had a large, forceful presence, and a voice that reverberated and hung in the ceiling. After the speech, Douglass would have shaken the hands of the congregation as they departed for home in the neighborhoods south of Munjoy Hill.

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a ne LeaSe f Life Mirroring Douglass’s footsteps on my way to the Abyssinian Meeting House, I notice how simple and quiet the Federal-style structures of the India 168 P

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Street Historic District seem compared to the condominium construction a few blocks down and the bustle of the Old Port beyond.

As I enter the empty meeting house, built by the hands of Portland’s African American community between 1828 and 1831, I observe how time shapes a place. Notches in the wood floor and walls reveal where the original pews were placed. Marks on the floor suggest where the pulpit once stood. Restorers have stripped away layers of wallpaper and plaster, leaving behind the exposed timber frame supporting the roof. Dust floats in the muted afternoon light. Despite worn-away varnish and nail holes, the building retains a scarred beauty. Since the church closed its doors in 1917, it has been re-used as a stable, a store, and tenement family housing, each renovation carving the needs of new residents into the walls as new windows and entryways.

Serving as a schoolhouse for black children before the Civil War, a secret station on the Underground Railroad, and a forum for renowned lecturers, the Abyssinian Meeting House stands as a testament to Portland’s African-American heritage, earning it a designation on the National Register of Historic Places. “It’s a uniquely special place,” says Leonard Cummings, chair of the Committee to Restore the Abyssinian.

Cummings envisions the Abyssinian Meeting House as a museum with a central role in teaching young people, engaging the community in cultural discussions, and welcoming new residents and visitors. Now restored, the Abyssinian Museum of History and Culture chronicles the untold stories of Portland’s African-American families dating back to the 1700s, and the struggles and survival of “the people who relished their freedom and lent their voice to make it real for others.” As Julie Larry of Greater Portland Landmarks says, “The Abyssinian Meeting House is a reminder of the contributions of African-Americans” throughout Portland’s history. ■

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Sir Harry Oakes, the Bahamian Yankee one mainer s ath to ortune, knighthood, and murder.

Passion and Paradise

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n early July 1943, the world’s attention was diverted from World War II by a shocking murder.

Sir Harry Oakes–Maine native, adventurer, gold prospector, philanthropist, British baronet, and one of the wealthiest men of his time–had been found brutally slain in his bedroom at Westbourne, the mansion on his rambling Bahamas estate. In the investigation that followed, justice would be stymied by police ineptitude and corruption, the indictment and trial of the wrong man, the shadow of the American Mafia, accusations of ritual killing, and the incessant meddling of officials all the way up to the former King of England. Despite the number of possible suspects who stood to benefit from Sir Harry’s death, A e arr akes pi tured ith the uke Winds r in the Baha as. he uke as app inted g ern r the islands in ll ing his a di ati n r the thr ne the quest for his killer was inexplicably terminated. The murder remains one of the modern age’s most fascinating unngland e t a i a a a i put the ster n the sil er s reen in . summerguide 2017 171

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solved mysteries. the earLy yearS arry Oakes’s life would not seem out of place as the subject of a Jack London novel, although his early years gave no indication of the triumph and tragedy that were to come.

He was born to a financially comfortable family in Sangerville, Maine, on December 23, 1874, the third of five children. A decade later, the family moved to Foxcroft to allow Harry and his two brothers to attend the prestigious Foxcroft Academy.

After graduating, Harry entered Bowdoin College, where he earned his bachelor’s degree. He went on to study medicine at Syracuse for two years before he was bitten by the gold bug. At 22, hearing tales of the fabulous strikes being made in the Klondike, he left medical school for Alaska to pursue a career as a prospector.

He had no doubt of his potential for success. According to Maine folklore, Harry confided to a Bowdoin classmate that he 172 P

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expected to gain a fortune and die a violent death “with his boots on.” Oakes’s youthful prediction, melodramatic though it might have been, would eventually prove accurate on both counts.

In the Yukon, Harry fought to survive not only the extremes of weather–it was not uncommon for temperatures to plunge to 60 degrees below zero–but the violent way of life there. The Klondike during the Gold Rush was the last bastion of the Wild West.

Crime was common, and gangsters such as “Soapy” Smith, the notorious “King of the

Klondike,” ruled.

Young Harry adapted well to his roughand-tumble environs, but he made no strikes. Restless, he spent over a decade roaming the world on his obsessive search for riches, prospecting in California, Central America, Australia, New Zealand, and Africa, before returning to North America after hearing gold was being mined in Northern Ontario.

His quest finally paid off in 1912, when he discovered a massive seam of gold beneath Kirkland Lake. This strike would

Sir Harry lay dead upon his bed in a grisly state.

His body had been doused in gasoline and set alight, covered with feathers, suggesting a ritual killing.

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prove to be the richest in Canada and the second-richest in the Western Hemisphere, making Harry one of the wealthiest men in the world. His Lake Shore Mines would ultimately net him the staggering sum of $60,000 per day (the equivalent of $720,000 per day in today’s currency).

Harry set about enjoying the good life that so many years of hard work and deprivation had earned him. On a world cruise in 1923, the 48-year-old Oakes met Eunice MacIntyre, a tall, attractive Australian some 25 years his junior, and they soon married. Over the next ten years, the union would produce five children.

Five years later, he moved his growing family to Niagara Falls, Ontario, where he became a Canadian citizen. He built a 35-room mansion, created a private golf course, and purchased one of the most extraordinary cars of his time. With its 12-cylinder engine and red leather seats, the hand-built 1928 Hispano-Suiza H6B “Sedanca de Ville” was large, elegant, and powered with the same engines used by

World War I French fighter planes. In 2008, Harry’s very car (see photo, left page) sold at a Bonhams auction for nearly a quarter of a million dollars. arry was magnanimous with his wealth, rewarding those who’d helped him and launching a number of local civic-improvement projects into which he poured millions of dollars. Over time, however, he came to resent what he considered the exorbitant taxes–$17,500 a day–that the Canadian government levied upon him. In 1935, he left Canada, taking his wife and children to live in the Caribbean city of Nassau, on the island of New Providence in the Bahamas.

In those days, Nassau was the quiet backwater capital of the British colony and a bastion for well-heeled whites in a place where abject poverty existed alongside fabulous wealth. As he had when he first arrived in Niagara Falls, Harry set about improving conditions on the island for both its native poor and its privileged whites. He

built an air base, polo field, country club, and golf course. He also purchased and improved the local hotel. He added a wing to the hospital, provided public transportation, employed a large number of the locals, and initiated programs to address the poverty in which many of the islanders were living. For his largesse, the Crown awarded him a baronetcy, whereupon he became Sir Harry Oakes. summerguide 2017 173

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money, in keeping with people’s needs.”

John Marquis, a chronicler of what has been called the “crime of the century,” writes that “Sir Harry was a complex man with a number of personal demons.”

On the night of July 7, 1943, those demons got very personal indeed.

While unice and the children traveled ahead to Maine to en oy the cool breezes at “ he Willows,” their summer mansion in ar Harbor, Sir Harry was still wrapping up some business in the ahamas, rattling around alone in the vast emptiness of Westbourne.

rain. It was while this tempest was raging that a person or persons brutally slew Sir Harry Oakes.

While Eunice and the children traveled ahead to Maine to enjoy the cool breezes at “The Willows,” their summer mansion in Bar Harbor, Sir Harry was still wrapping up some business in the Bahamas, rattling around alone in the vast emptiness of Westbourne, except for the servants and a longtime island friend, Harold Christie. Christie, an island investor and would-be real estate mogul, had been staying at Westbourne overnight. According to his own account, he entered Sir Harry’s room early the following morning to wake him for breakfast,

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the night in ueSti n A violent tropical storm struck the Bahamas, drenching Nassau in thick sheets of

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a Pit uLL f a man ir Harry Oakes was a self-made conundrum, his personality formed partly by his early years in New England, partly by the hard times he’d experienced as a hard-pan miner, and partly by his miraculous transformation from poor prospector to a figure of unimaginable wealth and standing. The stocky 5'6" Oakes–once described as a “pit bull of a man”–was gruff and often unpleasant. He didn’t suffer fools or flatterers, nor did he believe in mincing words. And while he made many friends through his charitable works, he was just as much of a genius at making enemies.

His son-in-law, Count Alfred “Freddie” de Marigny, referred to Sir Harry as “eccentric and complicated…crude and ill-tempered,” adding, “Oakes would never look like anyone’s idea of a multimillionaire. He looked like a union boss or a butcher…He bought a title from the British Crown, but he did not find nobility.”

Kaitlin McKay, manager of Kirkland Lake’s Museum of Northern History, which is located in Sir Harry’s chateau in Ontario, makes allowances for his abrupt manner. “Yes, Harry was gruff, stern, and cranky, but he gave jobs to more than 1,000 people. He was also very generous, but he preferred to donate things, rather than

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whereupon he made a chilling discovery.

Sir Harry lay dead upon his bed in a grisly state. His body had been doused in gasoline and set alight, but the wind and rain gusting through the open window had put out the flames before he was entirely consumed. As it was, his face and body were badly burned and blistered, and he was haphazardly covered with feathers from a pillow, as though to make it appear a ritual slaying. His face was bloody, and near his left ear were four puncture wounds which reportedly fractured his skull. But curiously, the blood had run up his face rather than down onto the sheets, indicating that he had not been killed in his bed.

This lurid scene is at the heart of the film

Passion and Paradise, in which Rod Steiger plays Sir Harry Oakes. the aftermath mmediately after he discovered Sir Harry’s body, Christie reported the death to the governor of the Bahamas, who was none other than the Duke of Windsor, formerly Edward VIII, King of the United Kingdom and the Dominions of the British Empire, and Emperor of India. The Duke of Windsor had stunned his nation by abdicating his throne in order to marry the American divorcee Wallis Simpson, and his well-publicized Nazi sympathies had proven a further embarrassment to his country. He was report-

edly given the governorship of the Bahamas in 1940 as a gentle way of exiling him from Great Britain.

Inexplicably, the Duke of Windsor seemed more interested in keeping the murder under wraps than in solving it.

Word got out, however, and–pressured to take action–he called upon Miami police captain Edward Melchen, whom he knew from a previous trip to Florida. Bahamians could not understand why he hadn’t turned to the local police force or even to Scotland Yard. But if his intention was to compromise the evidence and muddy the investigation, he couldn’t have chosen a likelier officer than Melchen, who arrived in Nassau (Continued on page 256)

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hings are ‘Very Revolutionary’ at Montpelier this season,” says Tobin Malone of the recreated General Henry Knox Mansion of Thomaston, also known as the Knox Museum. Which begs the question, how can an exacting replica ever change? For the summer of 2017, the answer is, “from the inside out,” with an eye-popping new set of historically researched interiors.

A hero of the American Revolution, General Henry Knox (1750-1806) called the white three-storey mansion home from 1795 until his death. Following years of neglect, the home steadily fell into disrepair and was eventually razed in 1871 (when the railroad says get out of the way, you get out of the way). summerguide 2017 177

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Historians felt sick about the loss of the famous artillery general’s home. Patriots were outraged. But like a phoenix from the ashes, Montpelier took flight again in 1929, thanks to efforts by the Knox Memorial Association. Set on a hilltop not all that far from its original waterfront location, the recreated Montpelier was filled with stunning original antiques and opened to acclaim from visitors keen for all things Colonial Revival.

Fast-forward to this summer and another stunning transformation.

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isitors to the Knox Museum will be able to travel through time and space via the eight “new” rooms opening this year, including The Boston Room, The French Room, Women & Children, The War Room, and the Thomaston Room–just funded “with a grant from the Maine Community Foundation,” says Malone. With dimension and drama, each room seems more like a live stage that will host a different theme capturing the “life, times, and legacy of Henry Knox.” The museum will host traveling exhibitions from The Gilder Lehrman Institute of American History, Mount Vernon, and the National Society of the Cincinnati, among others.

Want to get closer to the action? Look for a number of one-off events throughout the summer, including a Revolutionary War Encampment Reenactment from July 29-31. Admission is free. As Gen. Knox would say, “Boom.” ■

(855) 912-8130

summerguide 2017 179

With so many choices — from the simple pleasure of tent camping to full-service RV resorts with everything you need, or even comfy cabin rentals — a Maine camping experience is like no other.

CampMaine.com will help you find the camping experience as unique as you are within reach of all you want to see and do in Maine. With easy to use search tools, maps, and resources, Maines Official Camping Guide will virtually point the way.

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Ta sty D i s covery

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Curious Incident of the

Lobster Thermidor You couldn’t stage a better backstory for Lobster’s fanciest dish.

from top: culture passport; boathouse bistro - boothbay

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f only it were a secret that Lego Batman’s favorite dish in 2017 is Lobster Thermidor. Which is not to say this Parisian entree didn’t excite world attention long before CGI body-slammed all things reflective or complex.

Thankfully, Jen Carlson at The Gothamist has been dishing with some delicacy on Lobster Thermidor. “Recently I was at a dinner where Lobster Thermidor was being served—I had never had it before, but oddly I had just learned about its origins, so anyone sitting within earshot of me at this dinner was treated to a Drunk History-style version of it… Recipes vary, but most involve cheese and a cream sauce… Another often-used main ingredient is brandy or cognac.”

Who thought to blend lobster with cheese with such spirits? It was all about synergy.

“Lobster Thermidor was introduced on January 24th, 1894 at Chez Marie, a wellknown Paris restaurant,” Carlson contin-

From Staff & wire Report s

ues. “On that evening Victorien Sardou’s play Thermidor had its first performance at the Comédie-Française. Chez Marie decided to launch his new dish by giving it the name of the play.”

Researching both the phenomenon and the show, Carlson discovered “the dish lasted much longer than the play, which was cancelled after three performances. Americans never saw it, but it didn’t take too long for Lobster Thermidor to reach the States–

the New York Public Library’s menu database has it showing up here around 1907...

Here’s a small snapshot showing some NYC establishments that served the dish: $1.75 at the Waldorf in 1915 $1.50 at Delmonico’s in 1917 $3.00 at Klein’s in 1948 $3.75 at the Waverly in 1961

“And in the 1980s, it showed up on the in-flight menu for Air France’s Concorde route from New York to Paris.”

Up here in Maine, Boathouse Bistro Tapas Lounge & Restaurant in Boothbay Harbor does a striking rendition of the French classic ($36 for 1.5 lb.). Pascone’s Ristorante in Bar Harbor proudly offers its “famous 2 lb. Lobster Thermidor” for only the most decadent diner ($64).

Whatever you do, avoid following the example set by Batman in the The Lego Batman Movie and do not microwave your Lobster Thermidor. Quelle horruer! n summerguide 2017 181

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arly risers at “The Kelly House” are treated to sun on the deck with their morning coffee. It’s not hard to imagine this being the perfect place to pen your next Newbury Award-winning book, as Eric Kelly did almost 90 years ago. The author of The Trumpeter of Krakow called Chebeague Island home when hve wasn’t teaching English at Dartmouth College or chasing more sunshine in Aguas Calientes, New Mexico.

So how does the story go? It’s the 15th century, a dark time when villages are being burned. Every day, the trumpeter plays his tune from the tower of Saint Mary’s Church in Krakow. Until an unseen adversary shoots an arrow in his neck. Somebody find an Alchemist, quick.

Members of Kelly’s family still stay on Chebeague and love it as Kelly did. “My mom, my aunt, and two cousins,” says Meaghan Maurice, who’s never missed a summer on the island. The Trumpeter legacy now embraces two cottages and three generations.

“My favorite spot in the Kelly House is the porch, looking to the ocean and islands through the home’s original window panes.”

The view includes gulls, seaweed, and (whew)...no wolfdogs. ■

summerguide 2017 183

adventu re

Maine’s Best Surf Spots

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When writer Robert F. Bukaty asked one of the surfers how late he surfed, the answer was “until the streetlights light up on Beach Avenue.” Since 2012, a growing network of surfer communications has made it easier to brave the biggest waves, wherever

and whenever they are.

Maine’s wecams are the hidden eye in the sky that allow you to peek at the swell before you grab your board. Visit nesurf. com to find cameras overlooking the waves at Higgins, Gooch, Wells, and York Beach-

da e cLea eLand

maine imaging

Silver, Gold

es and determine whether conditions are worth the paddle out.

The world’s largest online surf platform– with over 2M users a month–is your secret weapon to staying one step ahead of that offshore breeze at all times. Magicseaweed. com has turned the art of chasing the perfect wave into an exact science with sevenday surf forecasts and data on everything from swell height and wind strength to atmospheric pressure. Download the MSW Surf Forecast app and suddenly you’ll have a surfing oracle in the palm of your hand. ■

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summerguide 2017 185

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t was one of those strange flashing seconds in life when you can draw the strands of the past and the future together in your hand and tie them firmly in a knot. For, as I visualize that summer’s flight, stretching like a taut string over the top of the globe, the knotted end is held fast in North Haven.

The trip to Maine used to be a long and slow one. There was plenty of time in the night, spattered away in the sleeper, in the morning spent ferrying across the river at Bath, in the afternoon syncopated into a series of calls on one coast town after an-

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other–there was plenty of time to make the mental change coinciding with our physical change. Our minds could quietly step

across the connecting passage from city to country, from school to vacation, from winter to summer. In the afternoon, when the train, like a busy housewife, did not have time to stop and chatter long to each station, but could not pass by without a friendly puff and a nod, as each town showed us a typically Maine landmark–a harbor full of little boats all pulling at their buoys, a white steeple, or a field of daisies–we were reminded of and prepared for our own harbor and field and steeple. As we neared our geographical destination we were also nearing our emotional one. The last lap of the

1931

summerguide 2017 187

journey across to the island by the small boat completed both of these ends and each familiar personal landmark, drawing from us always the same exclamations–”The four-masted schooner is still there!” “Isn’t that the five mile buoy?” “There’s our big spruce tree!”–linked us at last completely and satisfactorily to all past summers–to all vacations and to Maine.

But on this swift flight to North Haven in the Sirius my mind was so far behind my body that when we flew over Rockland Harbor the familiar landmarks below me had no reality. It took my mind overnight to catch up again and I lost much of the usual joy of arrival. I have had this sensation in flying many times before–this lack of synchronization of the speeds of mind and body. Pessimistically I have wondered if rapid transportation is not robbing us of the realization of life and therefore much of its joy. But I have decided that we are like the nearsighted man who is not yet used to his new spectacles. We are still trying to look at horizons. Our children will measure their distances not by steeples and pine trees but by mountains and rivers. And these landmarks will mean as much emotionally to them as the four-masted schooner in Rockland Harbor did to me.” ■ –Anne Morrow Lindbergh, from a diary entry written during the Lindbergh’s flight to the Far East, documented in North to the Orient.

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baby, born ust be ore midnight, critically sick. a call, and e res ond. three hundred and t enty ve nauti cal miles through dark, em ty skies, over a black landsca e. maine belo , tucked u and slee ing. us above, a ake and ork ing. dim lights, hushed voices, thoughts ocused on the task. no , baby sa e in Portland, e are heading home, northeast, level at ten thousand eet in cold, smooth air. the King air s engines set to a steady drone, cruise checks com lete, a moment to re la . a voice in my headset. my co ilot. “this is beauti ul.” the sky, blue black at takeo , no beginning to ale. the ho ri on, crimson, orange, gold. the sun, an ember, a s ark, rising. to our right, unend ing ocean, silky grey. monhegan, metinic, matinicus. to our le t, og ooded valleys, hillto s seeming to oat, adri t, unte thered. over islands in the sea and islands in the mist, e y to ards morning. i n d

1

…

summerguide 2017 189

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m h , best kno n as the wicked witch o the west, ho retired to maine and o ned ca e island in south ort, seems to have no hal li e. the enigmatic actress as er orming summer stock the ater in 1961 hen she heard a rumor that the coast guard as selling lighthouses. “she started driving all over the coast looking or one,” says margaret s son, meserve Hamil ton, in an intervie ith o nd on . the ild goose chase led her to ca e island.

Hamilton visited her maine hidea ay every summer until her death in 1985, delighting locals by ro ing to and rom the mainland or s ee ing her ront ste ith a broom. “Peo le robably thought it as rom the movie,” says meserve.

When asked hether he believes olks u here ever orget about the riendly itch ho ell in love ith the maine coast, meserve re lies, “when monkeys y ” see the ull story “no Place Like Home,” uly august 2004 or online at ortlandmonthly.com.

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s the sun dips toward the horizon at the end of one of Maine’s burnished summer days, like clockwork the bars, restaurants, and seafood shacks scattered along Maine’s coastline begin to crowd with hungry visitors, their skin flushed and mouths parched from the heat and sharp sea breeze. Beer glasses are filled and refilled, sweating condensation onto the bar top. When it’s too hot to eat but too late

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not to, these sun-soaked gourmands only have eyes for one thing: fresh oysters served in the half shell with just a squeeze of lemon or a drizzle of mignonette. The tang of brine delivers you back to the ocean in one mouthful. Savoring the primal enjoyment of eating raw oysters, it’s surprising to remember that only a matter of decades ago, a plate of the fresh shellfish would have been all but of unheard of in Maine.

“What’s happening with Maine oysters is fresh & exciting.” summerguide 2017 195

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The history of the Atlantic oyster, or Crassostrea virginica, is a tale of boom and bust. As recently as the early 20th century, a large number of bays, rivers, and estuaries along the Atlantic Coast were thickly carpeted with wild oysters. “For centuries, there was a unique and delicate balance of natural oyster populations and native human populations,” says Peter Smith of Otter Cove Farms. “Then we began to industrialize rapidly, and cities began to expand. Oysters became a real commodity in these urban areas.

They were so plentiful and accessible. You didn’t need to hunt

them or raise and farm them–they were just there.”

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bundant and decadent, oysters were an affordable luxury that transcended class divides. Oyster shells littered the sawdust-strewn floors of New York’s taverns. “From the time of the Revolution till the last beds were closed in 1927, the price [of oysters in NYC] barely moved,” says The Big Oyster author Mark Kurlansky in an interview on NPR. “There was something called The Canal Street Plan, which was all-you-can-eat [oysters] for six cents, at a time

when Delmonico’s was charging 50 cents a berry for out-of-season strawberries.”

But the insatiable hunger of growing populations and effluent waste produced by large cities like Manhattan started to sour the oyster dream. Free-flowing sewage infected oyster beds in areas like the onceabundant Long Island Sound in New York, causing outbreaks of diseases like cholera among those who consumed the raw bivalve. To top it off, the infamous 1938 New England hurricane and a shellfish parasite that decimated swathes of the Atlantic oyster beds during the 1950s were the last nails in the coffin for oysters, according to Sciensummerguide 2017 197

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, i nd it ise to be di lomatic hen i m asked, “where do the best oys ters come rom ” encouraging the asker to remem ber that every oyster roducing region n gro e ce tional oysters. i can rave over an oyster rom any here, as long as it s served in eak condition.

But i ve got a i m n a . maybe i m biased rom ha y childhood memories o acadia national Park and ro mantic summer tri s ith my then boy riend, no husband. maine has al ays served us ell as a lace o rela ation and rene al. we even got married in stockton s rings and toasted our ne li e together ith cham agne and local oysters. ob ectively s eaking, i think the ristine environment and bracingly cold aters o the gul o maine make the oysters here taste a cut above the rest. ou ust can t deny the cris brininess and bone broth savoriness o the oysters that come out o these aters. oysters aren t that di erent rom ne ines inso ar as they are site e ressive, meaning their taste is sha ed by the characteristics o their gro ing environment. terro r mero r water salinity, tem erature, the ty e o algae resent in the ater, and seabed characteristics all actor into an oyster s avor.

d t as soon as i set oot inside robert s maine grill in Kittery, i automatically oat over to the stainless steel ra bar beneath the cathedral ceiling. no that s hat i call an oyster theater e ecutive che Brandon Blethen and tom robinson rom taylor Lobster com any and i begin discussing oysters over a round o beers. we sam le a latter o t o do en oysters rom several a ellations in maine, ne Ham shire, and nova scotia. i hi out my on tasting ournal, and e roceed to com are tasting notes like college kids cramming or nals eek. the com le , layered sea eed and mineral notes o the ca e Blue oysters rom the damar iscotta river are onder ul, but the real sho sto er o the day is che Blethen s cold, hickory smoked glidden Points. the smoky brine takes this ra oyster to a hole other level. d t a long drive rom southern maine to mount desert island is richly re arded ith some o the tastiest ood red i a i ve ever had and a round o reshly harvested oysters rom western Bay, mount desert island. i meet ith oyster rancher matt gerard, the o ner o Bar Harbor s s eet Pea farm, ho is a generous and entertaining host. His ersonal a roach to oyster arming can be described as i i : they are bottom cultured and e osed to the elements and redators.

Later that a ternoon, i have a chance to tour a nearby oyster lease ith Brian Harvey, gro er o mount desert island selects. these are some o the s eetest and meatiest oysters i ve ever ound in maine. their umami taste actually reminds me o cured ham. Prosciutto o the sea, anyone

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d i land at Portland international et ort and get right do n to business. first sto : eventide oyster co. or a midday snack. my rst meal o the tri eatures ne discoveries rom Bro n Point, otter cove, and schoodic Point arms. a late o uke crudo ith ild blueberry and hoisin sauce is a delicious addition to my oyster centric diet. tem orarily satiated, i head south to meet u ith abigail carroll, the “accidental oyster armer” ho gro s nonesuch oysters near scarborough, and i m immediately ascinated by her a roach to the cra t. scra y and innovative, she has re ur osed old lobster tra s as make shi t oyster nurseries. they seem to er orm ust as ell as traditional gear. i sam le some o her bottom lanted oysters, bag cultured oysters, and a cou le o her nonesuch flat a variety that is native to euro e d i but can also be ound in maine. they have a robust, savory avor and metallic nish that is com letely di erent rom our native atlantic s ecies o i ini .

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a miraCLe C me aC Following fallow decades, science ushered in a new dawn for the maligned shellfish.

“Cleaner waters and advances in aquaculture techniques made oyster growing a viable business. Today, most commercial oysters in New England come from hatcheryreared larvae,” says Scientific American.

Farms have also introduced the native species’ suave European cousin, Ostrea edulis, to Maine waters.

The market is greedy for this renaissance. Step into any seafood bar in Portland, and you’ll see a menu of oyster varieties on sale for up to $3 each on the half shell. Kurlansky calls it the “second Golden Age of the oyster.”

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ebrated restaurants. Oysters seemed downand-out, with all hope lost.

international oyster e ert kno s a great oyster hen she tastes one. the ne ork based ostreo hile and ounder o n blog recently made a ve day tri to maine to indulge her assion or our oysters.

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“Growing up, the old saying went that you shouldn’t eat oysters during months that don’t contain the letter ‘r,” says Lisa Carol Rose, a fifth generation waterman– the term used in Chesapeake Bay to describe an oyster fisherman. “The summer months are when algae blooms or ‘red tides’ occur, spreading toxins that are then absorbed by shellfish.” By this measure, wild oysters were firmly off the menu during Vacationland’s busiest months.

In Maine, two generations of oyster eaters slowly forgot such a delicacy even existed.

They all but dropped from the menus of cel-

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n Maine, it may be more prudent to call it the third. If you peel away from Route One just after crossing the Damariscotta River and continue on foot, directly on the riverbanks you’ll discover evidence of

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this region’s ancient appetite for bivalves.

“Deposits of oyster shells are continuous on both sides for over three hundred yards,” writes Harold W. Castner in The Prehistoric Oyster Shell Heaps of the Damariscotta

ai illustrat r hn enniel depi ts the a us p e r e is arr lls i he Walrus and arpenter s rapa i us appetites r sters irr rs the dern da de and r the i al e.

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d f the damariscotta river is like the na a alley o shell sh. a ter a scenic drive do n the eastern bank o the river, i arrive at mook sea farms. no other arm e em li es both the art and science o oyster arming as ell as this one. a scientist, inventor, and climate change activist, ounder Bill mook is an amalgamation o Bill nye, ac ues cous teau, and willy wonka. mook sea farms rimarily uses a oating cage system to culti vate their oysters. the ave action and len ti ul ood allo s their oysters to gro uickly and roduce clean, manicured shells. d f i can t leave maine ithout a ro er “shuck your o n” e erience at glidden Point oyster farm. i try my hand at shucking an L glidden Point, and it certain ly uts u a ght. But nothing is more satis y ing than shucking your o n briny lunch right at the source. i make my ay back to Portland in search o one last indulgence be ore i leave. my last sto on this hirl ind oyster tour is at the corner o commercial and, a ro ri ately, Pearl street. i hot dog and ret el stands are iconic to ne ork, then Brendan Parson s BP shuck shack lls that role in Portland. Brendan s oyster cart has every thing you need or a great o ra bar e erience, including a detailed ma o the damariscotta river. ■

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River in 1969. “There are five major mounds and many smaller deposits. The size of the oyster shells in these deposits excites the imagination. They could range from a foot in length to twenty inches.”

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ne of the largest is Whaleback Shell Midden, a heap of discarded shells believed to have been formed over the course of one thousand years by the native people. “It used to be the size of an apartment building,” says Peter Smith. The lyrically named “Glidden Midden” can be found on the opposite bank.

Both mounds were partially harvested and processed for chicken feed in the 1800s or eroded by tides but remain some of the largest midden deposits in the country.

During the late 19th century, the elite ostreophiles of the East Coast preferred to discard their shells upon ornately designed oyster plates. According to Distinction Magazine, the trend began with Lucy Hayes, wife of President Rutherford B. Hayes, who “decided to replace the White House china, [and suddenly] oyster plat-

ENJOY SUMMER WITH US! Visit our farm and retail shop at 637 River Road in Edgecomb.

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The presidential interest sparked a sensation that resulted in Limoges and Haviland porcelain firms producing a universe of fancifully painted platters to meet worldwide demand. Today these collectors’ items are being whisked out of dusty cabinets and put to immediate use by 21st century enthusiasts.

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odern-made oyster platters seem to favor smooth lines and natural materials. At Scales Restaurant on Custom House Wharf, efficient waitstaff scoop crushed ice into a shallow groove that runs the length of the long polished-concrete bar. Deft-fingered, they shuck the fresh oysters and present them delicately perched on the ice in their half shell, pulsing sea water through translucent flesh. At BP’s Shuck

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Shack (above), a handcart that you’ll find roaming Portland this summer, Brendan Parsons serves up his Damariscotta bivalves on thick slabs of wood engraved with six oyster-shaped dimples, handmade by local artist Paul Sampson.

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s Maine’s foodie community surges through the summer season, Otter Cove is shifting gears to meet the demand for high-quality shellfish. “I’m filling orders for places like Eventide, Central Provisions, Tipo, Scales, Earth–the top restaurants that are looking for an exceptional product. [Co-owner Brian Mozeleski] and I are committed to raising quality oysters responsibly.” The local industry is bolstered by the news that Island Creek Oysters from Boston will install themselves in Creighton and Sons flower market on Washington Avenue. Flowing in the opposite direction, Eventide will open an oyster bar in Boston’s Fenway neighborhood. Reading between the lines, it looks as though the tide for oysters will continue to rise in Maine. ■

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Hidden Shore “there is a thing inherent and natural, hich e isted be ore heaven and earth, motionless and athomless ” Lao i y C

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creened by trees along Shore Road in Cape Elizabeth, many shingled mansions harbor dazzling views and riveting stories. But what lies behind the army of stone Chinese Zodiak creatures guarding the entrance to No. 1172? Welcome inside the palace that’s for sale for $11M. Here’s a clue. It’s owned by a native Mainer, the founder of the second-largest environmental law firm in the United States.

summerguide 2017 209

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n ir n ental la er li t utler s ape li a eth h e eatures a t st r li rar a e and ie s e e right .

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he second study has a n d a bookshelf that swings open to a hidden passage.

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n fact, a great deal of the spirit of this retreat springs from the three years (2006-2009) Cutler spent in China.

From garden sculptures to China Trade antiques, the 15,000-square-foot enclave blends the Maine mystique with the Far East. On the yang side, this house brings

drew.

Here’s another clue. It has two grand pianos.

Have you guessed yet? The seller is former Maine gubernatorial candidate Eliot Cutler, who was “fox-bewitched” by this neck of the woods in the late 1990s and commissioned Wright-Ryan Construction to build this stunning mansion, hidden from view but alive with perspective in a setting where moving spirits seem to sweep across the sea.

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utler, educated at Deerfield Academy, Harvard, and Georgetown Law, seems to enjoy channeling the spirit of his surroundings. “I grew up in Bangor and on Hancock Point on Frenchman’s Bay,” he says. “It took two years to find this property. Once we saw it and bought it, we wanted to build a house that sat well on the land and was not overly im-

meggie BootH

out the Wyeth in you, rugged and sure.

On the yin side, it brings out the Laozi in you–deceptively playful. Beyond the “four-bedroom guest house, pool, tennis court…and 600 feet of bold Atlantic frontage” in the brochure, there’s an elegant sense of detachment here, yet a visitor feels intimately connected to the symphony of rocks, beach, and sea.

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posing from the road or water.” One more thing: “We needed lots of room for us and our family, a growing family along the course of time, where we could gather family and friends to enjoy the Maine coast with us.” It was just then that “I’d merged my law firm with a big international firm. A condition was that I could commute from Maine, and we did it. I did it.”

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“ brought two lamps from the mantel in angor. ow it really feels like the fireplace where grew up, but it’s here.”

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en the pastel pink athr en s eans ie s ight utler s kit hen in ludes a traditi nal Aga range i p rted r the .

“ nother strong echo in the house comes from the three years when lived in ei ing, when we ac uired a lot of hinese vernacular furniture.”

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s cozy as this home may be, most retreats don’t have a library on the scale of Cutler’s, extending across two dimensions. “The libraries are two levels,” nearly windowless but for clerestories, connected by a spiral stair. “It’s the main turret.” Asked if some lucky books from his childhood home floated into his new library, he’s enthusiastic. “The multi-volume Winston Churchill History of World War

meggie BootH

To design this house deliberately imagined without a name, “We interviewed 10 architects. We chose Bob Knight of Blue Hill,” Cutler says. “I’m not one to give names to houses. We view this as a home, not as some kind of estate. We had 50 brokers in yesterday, looking at the house. Several remarked at how cozy it was, regardless of how large. That was a major objective of ours.”

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II.” Yup, we’re talking with Eliot Cutler. “All the Robert McCloskey Books.” One Morning in Maine meets One Morning in Beijing.

“My favorite part of the library is the fireplace. Growing up on Grove Street in Bangor, I loved the fireplace and the large mantel around it in our house. At first, I wanted to take the mantel and fireplace and put it here.” Then he reconsidered. “I asked Bob Knight if he could duplicate it, and he did. He took extremely careful measurements.” To complete the illusion of stopped time, “I brought two lamps from the mantel” in Bangor. They’d always hovered over the fireplace. “Now it really feels like the fireplace where I grew up, but it’s here.

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W W W. M A I N E G A R D E N S . O R G ù B O O T H B AY, M A I N E

eLiot cutLer

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nother strong echo in the house comes from the three years when I lived in Beijing, when we acquired a lot of Chinese vernacular furniture, including two wedding beds.” Which may be the answer to: What do you give a man who has two pianos?

“All our furniture from China is here,” including large artworks such as Chinese Zodiac stoneware. “We brought it back in 2009 by container.” But what to bring? “We had some very heavy Chinese outside lanterns, tables, and stools, all made of stone and cement. We thought that shipping them back would be prohibitively expensive. But when you’re shipping a container, you’re shipping by volume, not by weight.”

Only a third of the container was full. “So we went to the Dirt Market in Beijing, and we bought an enormous amount of stone and cement” sculpture. “It’s all here and gives character to the house and the land.”

Of course, in Maine, you don’t need to travel to China to purchase China Trade antiques. Maine sailing ships brought such

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“Exactly right. I have several pieces of old Chinese stuff, including a huge ivory ship and some cloisonne. These are articles I bought at Jim Julia’s auctions even before I ever thought of going to China. There’s a lot of old China here from ships in the China Trade.” ince e re here or the tour tell us about the itchen.

“There were two cabinetmakers. One was Wright Ryan. They have their own cabinetry shop. A local Cape Elizabeth cabinetry guy did an enormous amount of the cabinetry–the lion’s share of it. In the dining room there are two remarkable open shelves that are scalloped wood. Sam Robinson sculpted these by hand. i i ai eets i i B i i in li t utler s s uare t h e.

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everal years ago, we bought a Wendy Klemperer sculpture–you know the sculptures at the entrance to the [Port-

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n all this privacy hat animals can you see

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Daniel Anselmi, Untitled (3-10), artist painted paper collage on panel, 30 x 40 inches

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“We’re on the shipping lane that comes into Portland Harbor. We can see them coming in and out. We see the big ships, and we see sailboats and lobster boats in and out of Zeb Cove. The more I talk about it, the more I’m going to miss it.”

Then, as though to miss it more, he adds, “Some [guests] asked me last night if I’ll miss it. They asked, ‘You grew up Downeast. How does this compare?’ Even though we’re on 5.5 acres with 700 feet of shorefront, we’re 15 minutes from the airport.” He looks out the window. “I’ve climbed every mountain at least once on MDI,” but the airport isn’t so convenient. meggie BootH

Aug 15 Sept 10 Marty Braun

land International] airport? The porcupine?

We bought an oversized fox by Wendy Klemperer. It sits on the edge of the cliff that goes down to the ocean. We put it there because there was a family of red foxes that goes back and forth from the woods on one side of our property–a fox crossing.

We put the fox out there. Lo and behold, one day we’re sitting at the window having breakfast, and the family of foxes comes by, and they start nosing and investigating this oversized fox. I was able to grab some wonderful photographs of the baby foxes playing with the big sculpture.”

Foxes know a good entertainment venue when they see it. Cutler has hosted “all kinds of events” for up to 300 guests near the edge of this cliff–receptions under the stars “on the ocean side of the house, lobster bakes, dinner and dancing…”

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“Yes. But other than Acadia itself, you don’t have the wonderful urban life of Portland.”

(Continued on page 226)

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Asked about a magic spot in the house, he says, “My favorite spot is the breakfast area off the kitchen. It’s surrounded 180 degrees by massive windows. On a clear day you can see Portugal.” There’s a pause.

“I’ll never have as great an office as I have here now.”

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Hidden Shore (continued from page 223)

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Making David’s a go-to restaurant for over 25 years.

(207) 774-5946 harmonsbartons.com 584 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

DAVID’S RESTAURANT Portland davidsrestaurant.com

DAVID’S OPUS TEN Portland davidsopus10.com

DAVID’S 388

South Portland davids388.com

DAVID’S KPT

Kennebunkport boathouseme.com/dining

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e ete e incScarborough, Maine e te

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We treat all pet emergencies 24 /7 Open 24 hours a day, every day, year round.

MVMC MVMC me gency pec a y osp a ca bo o g

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Located next to Scarborough Downs in the Enterprise Business Park off Route 1

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Handmade Quality Craftsmanship • • • Craftsmen Rebuilding Their Lives • Jewelry Boxes •Handmade Coffee & End Tables Quality Craftsmanship…Craftsmen Rebuilding • Deacon’s Benches • Rocking Horses Boxes ••Jewelry Hope Chests & End ••Coffee Children’s ToysTables ••Deacon’s Bar Stools Benches ••Rocking Cutting Boards Horses •Hope Chests ••Children’s Ship ModelsToys •Bar Stools ••Cutting Birdhouses Boards •Ship Models ••Birdhouses Bureaus •Bureaus ••Bookcases Bookcases •Nightstands • Jelly Cupboards •Jelly Cupboards • Nightstands OPEN 9AM-5PM, 7 DAYS VISA, MC, DISCOVER & CHECKS ACCEPTED

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Their Lives o to p int

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PLEASE NEW PR

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358 Main St., Rte. 1, Thomaston 207-354-9237 www.maine.gov/corrections/industries/page7.html 358 Main St., Rte. 1, Thomaston | 207-354-9237 Opening Summer of 2013 New Windham Retail Outlet 608 Roosevelt Trail, Route 302, Windham, ME Now Open! New Windham Retail Outlet 608 Roosevelt Trail, Route 302, Windham, ME 230 P

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__________ ate

SO ST linen

Front door to table.

Hyper-local menu sourced from Monument Square’s Farmers’ Market.

The Jane Dress Perfect for Summer!

5 South Street Portland, ME 774.234.7678 southstreetlinen.com

Passionately crafted, weekly seven-course food and wine pairings prepared with great care.

Nightly Event Tickets 6:45 Cocktails & Hors d’oeuvres • 7:15 Dinner Beverage Pairings Optional DA ID S OPUS TEN

Portland, (207) 773.4340 davidsopus10.com

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The highest caliber of senior living, combining both lifestyle and support for your peace of mind.

“Their love and care for my parents was amazing.

Their timely notification of issues and news allowed us to relax in the knowledge that my parents were under the best care imaginable.” – Donna • •

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Call Elizabeth today! 207.885.5568

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Call 207-546-2927

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Where you ll e perience the art of beauty and the beauty of art.

Book your first spa treatment and receive 20% off services.

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summerguide 2017 235

Our City…

…Your Way!

Laurie Lakshmi Lefebvre (Proctor)

SUBSCRIBE TO

PORTLAND New England’s North Star portlandmaga ine.com

Open Daily

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& Barnacle Billy’s, Etc.

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Open Daily FROM 11AM TO 9PM

207-646-5575 barnbilly@gmail.com Two restaurants side by side in Perkins Cove,

OGUNQUIT, MAINE

Day trips and overnights with one of the East Coast’s leading sea kayak outfitters.

We hope to see you on the water!

- Joe and Tom

207.766.2373 www.maineislandkayak.com info@maineislandkayak.com

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Drive

• Tour • Explore

MOUNT WASHINGTON • Drive Yourself • Guided Tours

Book Online Get $5 Off Per Person 9:00 AM Guided Tours (24 hours in advance)

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SUMMER IS FINALLY HERE! Take advantage of our summer rates and explore all that Maine has to of fer!

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Bring your favorite local brews and come aboard for a 90 minute, pedal powered cruise of the Portland waterfront

Perfect for your 43.6615° N, 70.2553° W

– bachelorette party – birthday – group outing

visit mainebaycycle . com to book and learn more !

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summerguide 2017 239

FIND A NEW SUMMER LOVE At 90+ Cellars, we search the globe for outstanding wines from highly rated wineries and vineyards, and bottle those wines under our own label for less. Learn more at ninetypluscellars.com

ALWAYS A GREAT WINE

Endless Summer the right glass o

from Left: core

temPLeton meagHan maurice

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here’s no place like home Maine, especially during the summer months. And while everyone’s dream vacation may be different, most can certainly be improved when paired with the perfect bottle of wine. We’ve got you covered with wines for every summer scenario–all for under $25.

What Maine vacation is complete without a clambake? This summer tradition deserves a worthwhile accompaniment. Enter Proud Pour The Oyster Sauvignon Blanc from California. This award-winning white wine delivers a bouquet of grapefruit and kiwi with just a hint of lemongrass.

The crisp, well-balanced acidity and fresh flavors make this Sauvignon Blanc sing when paired with fresh shellfish. So it’s fitting that a portion of the proceeds from every bottle of this sustainably-grown Sauvignon Blanc go to The Nature Conservancy

ine or every sun soaked vacation occasion. y raLPh herS

m

in Maine toward restoring two million oysters to Casco Bay. Drinking wine can save the planet!

If you’re more of a “turf” than “surf” type, why not fire up the grill, grab a lawn chair, and pour yourself a glass of Chop Shop Cabernet Sauvignon from California? A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot with aromas of blackberries and currants and hints of vanilla and spice, this crowd-pleasing red is delicious paired with barbecued red meats.

A windswept afternoon on the waters of Casco Bay, whether aboard a yacht or just a Casco Bay Lines ferry, is perhaps the most stunning way to take in Portland’s skyline and surrounding islands.

With a glass of Chateau Miraval Rosé in hand, it’s smooth sailing all the way. This particular rosé originates from a winery situated in the heart of Provence that

is currently owned by Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. The marriage may be over, but the wine lives on–and it’s got star quality, blending Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Rolle (an indigenous grape varietal)

to produce an aromatic wine with notes of fresh fruit and spring flowers. Savor the refreshing acidity and minerality as you glide through the waves.

If you’re packing your bags and escaping summerguide 2017 241

to a hidden camp in the Maine woods this summer, make sure you pack a bottle of Tormaresca Primitivo from Italy for company. Sharing a heritage with Zinfandel, this wine is soft and full-bodied with wellbalanced tannins. Rich black-cherry flavors with just a hint of spice make this Primitivo a long-time favorite of vacationers in Southern Italy. Hey, if it’s good enough for the Italians…

Or celebrate Midsummer (or Midsommar) Scandinavian-style with a party that stretches well into the night. Nothing says celebration like a bottle of bubbles. Mionetto Organic Prosecco from Italy is a delicious organic Prosecco with a delicate perfume of elderflower and subtle fragrance of green apple on the palate giving it a satisfying crispness. Skål! ■ alph ersom is a sommelier and the ategory anager o ine beer and spirits or anna ord upermar ets. e as ormerly the ellarmaster at indo s n he orld and ine director o e ir ue in .

Latitude 43° 45’ 1”

from classic to contemporary from maine boiled lobster to Maine craft beer ark your ale dar for the 17 o erts he oi t ti kets will e a aila le o e t rite

Motor Booty affair

Saturday, July 1 @ 7pm–with fireworks to follow

Moon Dawgs

Saturday, u ust 1 @ 7pm

amazing experience!

hotos u as Sharpe, ai e ma i top ri ht

here all reat thi s ome to ether for o e

cookslobster.com

Longitude -69° 59’ 32” 242 P

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What goes on on Monhegan stays ‌

‌with you.

207-596-0371 www.islandinnmonhegan.com

390 Congress Street | Portland, Maine 04101 | 207.808.8700 | unionportland.com

photo: kari herer

summerguide 2017 243

Quiet & Casual Lodging Near the Beach

Goose Rocks Beach, Kennebunkport • (207) 967-1928 www.OceanWoodsResort.com

i d

i

Play On the legacy o a brilliant immigrant toymaker echoes through generations o franco american mainers.

fiLe PHotos a

art news

T

ouched by a moment of remembering my favorite childhood games, I feel a surge of freedom recalling toys with the power to expand my imagination and conjure infinite possibilities. This nostalgia was induced by a recent story in The Atlantic on the concept of “free play” for children. “Unscheduled, unsupervised playtime is one of the most valuable educational opportunities we give our children,” The Atlantic says. Physical activity and using one’s imagination allows children to apply creativity and gain physical, cognitive, and emotional strength. And that’s not just kid stuff. Let your mind wander through Acadia National Park on this level: Maine, the boundless psychic playground.

Peeling back the layers of my favorite memory-making toys, I found to my surprise that the person responsible for their uniqueness was a survivor of the Holocaust. Henry Ornstein (right), as depicted in the 18-minute documentary The Man Who Taught America to Play, fostered free play through his ingenuity and his concept of

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r

inS

selling affordable, accessible toys. He survived three concentration camps during World War II. Afterward, he emigrated to the U.S. to become one of the most influential toy makers who ever lived, inspiring generations of children with his creations.

Ornstein’s is a remarkable tale of triumph over devastation, survival as a rallying cry for an immigrant’s potential for success.

His Topper Toys produced Suzy Cute dolls and Johnny Lightning cars. Later, Ornstein created the first Transformers toy. His legacy endures as Transformers: The Last Knight

sweeps across cinema screens this summer.

As children in Maine, our lives were imprinted with this man’s genius. “Supermarket dolls,” so known because they were sold almost exclusively in grocery stores, were displayed in the corner store of my Franco-American neighborhood. The coveted toys were sold on layaway, ordered, and delivered to the delight of expectant children.

These particular jouets were a constant presence during our childhood in Waterville. My own children found the Transformers to be not only “more than meets the eye,” which spoke eloquently to their cultural identity, but also transformative.

Having grown up in Maine as the product of a legacy of immigration, I’m struck by the thought that across time and market dimension, this Polish immigrant, a survivor and a visionary, touched our lives and those of many others with his remarkable tenacity and contribution to the art of play. ■ hea t obbins is the author o do n editor o o o n o n

ns and

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a ’ i o ers home made italian cooking using the reshest ingredients, eaturing avorites such as i a, asta,and sand iches. oted “Best in Port land” or three years. dine in and catering services on o er. Beer and ine available. o en 11 8 mon. through sat. 151 middle st 5, Portland and ne location cumberland county courthouse, 205 ne bury st. antho nysitaliankitchen.com, 774 8668. ’ , kno n or lu ury lobster, steamed clams, large lusty drinks, barbecued chicken, homemade clam cho der o course, the lobster roll lobster ste . features e tensive indoor sundeck seating here guests can en oy both the beauty o the harbor the ocean beyond. Perkins cove, ogun uit, 646 5575, barnbilly.com

ItalIan HerItage Center est. 19 3

We Specialize in ...

Amazing Complete Wedding Packages Rooms Accommodate Accomodate Rooms Groups from 50-500

Corporate Social Wedding Bereavement Receptions Italian Heritage Center 40 Westland Avenue, Portland, ME 04102 207-772-2500 FAX: 207-780-8505 www.italianheritagecenter.com

Email ihcmgr@maine.rr.com Email your your inquires inquiries to: k_mcdonough@yahoo.com

’ oted Portland s Best italian restaurant by market surveys o america, Bruno s o ers a delicious variety o classic italian, american, and sea ood dishes and they make all o their asta in house. great sand iches, i a, cal ones, sou s, cho ders, and salads. en oy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. casual dining at its best.

33 allen ave., 878 9511.

f ’ authentic irish ub restaurant, serving delicious rom scratch sand iches, steaks, sea ood hearty irish are, ouring local cra t remium im orted bre s, as ell as maine s most e tensive selection o single malt scotch irish hiskeys. Live music ive nights. o en 7 days, 11:30 a.m. 1 a.m. Kitchen closes at 10 .m. 375 fore st., old Port, 773 7210, bull eeneys.com.

d m ’ no through december, rela and en oy Head che melissa Bouchard s master ul creations. every day, she o ers something ne and delicious. try our early dinner s ecials, monday friday or our on der ul Port side Lounge, Portland s geta ay or gro n u s. Ha y Hour includes s ecial menu monday friday, 4 7 .m. o en daily at 11 a.m., commercial st., old Port. al ays free ParKing hile aboard. 772 2216.

e ’ g , an oasis o calm and great ood in the old Port. Per ect or meetings and s ecial occasions. ingredients rom maine s aters and arms. the seasonal ice Bar is ideal or outdoor dining. Ha y Hour mon. fri. ree valet arking. Lunch 11:30 a.m. 2 .m., dinner 5 9:30 .m. 468 fore st., Portland, 775 9090, evesatthegarden.com ’ is a remier sea ood destination and locals avorite ith indoor and outdoor ater ront seating on one o Portland s scenic iers. established in 1977, s o ers classic avorites and riendly service. coastal Living claimed s one o “america s Best sea ood dives 2016.” find us on facebook. 772 4828

a steakhouse sushi Bar serves asian cuisine ith modern lair. a anese, sushi, thai, chinese, or hibachi tables. Private arty rooms accommodates grou s rom business meetings to birthday arties. choose resh, delicious items re ared be ore your table. family riendly o en mon. thurs. 11:30 a.m. 10 .m., fri. to 11 .m., sat. 1 .m 11 .m., sun. 11:30 a.m. 9:30 .m. 874 0000, konasianbistrome.com. h

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ne england cuisine

cLocKwise from toP Left: cHef cHadwicK

diane Hudson courtes

PHoto ted a eLrod

Escape the City an evening at S g r in ca e eli abeth is an enchanting and restorative e erience.

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here’s a certain magic to a hotel restaurant that puts you in a getaway state of mind, even if you’re not on vacation. A drive to Cape Elizabeth for dinner at Sea Glass Restaurant at the Inn by the Sea delivers the goods. The rambling cottage glamour and shimmering seascape beyond the deck and gardens really are the cure for urban funk.

We each begin with a martini: one Beefeater, one Tito’s, both bone-dry and straight up. Our waiter presents us with an amuse bouche–a dainty roasted mussel on the half shell dabbed with a smidgen of fresh grapefruit and a smear of spicy, peppery sauce. We sip and sample while checking out the fine selection of paintings around the dining room, many by local artists, including Eric Hopkins, Ed Douglas, and Laurence Philip Sisson.

Chef Andrew Chadwick comes to

y dian e hudS

n

Maine by way of the Chatham Bars Inn on Cape Cod, and the menu reflects his commitment to sustainable local seafood. We share an appetizer of tiny lobster tacos ($16), each delicately crisp tortilla less than two inches across, standing upright on a dab of avocado puree and brimming with sweet chunks of lobster.

The menu notes vegan, gluten-free, and pescetarian options. The daily catch, poached pollock in a vegan vegetable broth, sounds entirely above reproach but perhaps a bit too close to health food for us. We choose instead the salmon filet ($30), which arrives with gloriously crisp skin and a delicately translucent center. It’s served with a tender, caramelized roasted carrot, dabs of carrot purée, and a rather bland artichoke purée. While a sprinkling of granola is distracting, tiny orange pearls of salmon roe add a joyful zing. The sirloin

steak ($38) is simply delicious, grilled to a juicy, rare perfection. The accompanying braised black barley is tasty and filling, if a little under-seasoned.

Since we’re sharing the entrées, we choose red wine for the steak rather than a white for the fish, and sip glasses of silky, dark Josh Cabernet Sauvignon ($10). To finish, we savor a rectangular chocolate financier ($9). The delicate petit-four cake has a secret moist interior and comes garnished with whipped cream and fresh raspberries. It proves the perfect finale for watching twilight repaint the colors of Crescent Beach. The setting, the meal, and the exceptional service and hospitality have proven a welcome escape from the city. ■ ea lass estaurant at nn by the ea o ery each oad ape li abeth. pen daily - p.m. ri and at p.m. innbythesea.com summerguide 2017 247

ith an international t ist. Local roduce and sea ood, ull bar, a ard inning ine list, in house dessert che . nurturing the seacoast alate or over 25 years. good res taurants come and go. great restaurants get better and better. Lunch and dinner seven days a eek. Bar menu al ays available. reservations suggested. 29 dock s uare, Kennebunk ort, maine. 207 967 9111, hur ricanerestaurant.com

m ’ r is Portland s original classic italian restaurant. greg and tony na olitano are al ays in house re ar ing classics like u a de Pesce, egg lant Parmigian, grilled eal sausages, eal cho milanese, homemade cavatelli as tas, Pistachio gelato, Limoncello cake, and maine s Best meatballs. Prices 11.95 22.95. tue. sat. starting at 5 .m. catering al ays available. 337 cumberland ave. 772 9232, mariasrestaurant.com. d r , sebago s ne est riendly arm to table restaurant in the heart o sebago. great local beer ood selec tion. o en 6 days a eek, tues. fri 4 .m. to close sat. sun. 12 .m. to close closed on mon. Ha y Hour s ecials, tues. sat.

Live music rom local talent, every fri. sat. 46 sebago road, sebago 787 5124 odanssebago.com

P ’ ocuses on sim le yet ull la vored me ican and Latino ood. o ering tacos, burritos and an im ressive array o margaritas, sangria, beer, and ine. i d n s ecials o the eek kee the menu varied and resh and sho case di erent Latino cultures. seasonal outdoor dining available. o en daily, 12 .m. 10 .m. 181 Port rd., Kennebunk, 967 5544, edrosmaine.com.

P L C Picture yoursel choosing rom our ull menu including “maine s Best Lobster roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, ried claims, cho der, and more be ore sto ing by our outdoor bar or an ice cold locally bre ed beer or a glass o ine ine. then take a seat on our deck overlooking the gorgeous Portland Harbor and rela hile listening to daily live music.

180 commercial street, 775 2112 ortlandlobstercom any.com

r e C me ican ood rom the heart. authentic amily reci es assed do n through generations. we serve large

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub F F

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and small lates and an “oversi ed te uila selection.” try Portland s o n “marisco” a me ican sea ood cocktail o shrim , bay scal lo s, clams, octo us, and, o course, maine lobster. o en lunch and dinner, tues. sat.

11:00 a.m. 9:00 .m., 190 state st. Portland. elcora on ortland.com, 536 1354

Someday you will find yourself in Hancock, Maine.

r S P & g no ith t o un and com ortable u scale s orts bar locations.

Kno n or great casual ub ood, rivalries menu has something or everyone. and, ith 30 Hd t s and every ma or ro and college s orts ackage, you on t miss a game Locat ed at 11 cotton street in Portland s old Port 774 6044 and 2 Hat trick drive, falmouth 747 4020 , rivalriesmaine.com

S i traditional northern italian cuisine mi es maine reshness ith genovese lavor rom international che Paolo Laboa. en oy the crudo bar or the daily changing menu. included in ood in in 2016 “what to do in Portland, me.” o en daily 5 .m 10 .m. 100 commercial street Portland, 780 0227, soloitalianorestaurant.com ti a’ an mediterranean menu eatures dishes ins ired by the cultures and cuisines o north a rica, southern euro e, and the middle east. e ecutive che co o ner Bo By rne artners ith urveyors to rocure hand selected, sustainably raised and sourced meats, sea ood, cheeses, and roduce. ti a is o en 7 days a eek or lunch and dinner ith brunch on sunday. 327 commercial street, 808 8840.

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summerguide 2017 249

SeS S i

nS

Dream Islands (continued from page 104)

er irCh iSLandS 12 000 aCreage 2 Here’s a pretty pair of islands: 23.6 acres and 4.4 acres connected by a tidal land bridge. Included in the price is 3 acres on the mainland, where you can park your

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gas guzzler.

Think you’re tough enough to live out here? Before current owner Stephen Broyhill bought these islands, the previous couple who lived here lasted only one night under the stars before leaving and putting the property up for sale in the 1980s. Maine: Not Exactly For Everyone.

H

ad they stayed longer, they might have seen deer who occasionally swim out to sneak a night bite of the apples ripening in the orchards.“You’re truly out in nature. It’s quiet and undisturbed,” Broyhill says.

An elegant post-and-beam home crowns the hill on the bigger island. A

wraparound deck overlooks a meadow leading down to the shoreline. All new furniture complements a stone fireplace and hardwood floors. Utilities are fed by an updated solar system and a drilled well.

“For anybody who likes to be in nature or is creative, it’s just ideal,” says Broyhill. He drops his voice confidentially.

“I get tired of being around people. What I like is being able to get totally away.”

Taxes: $8,898 Pine iSLand 0 000 aCreage 1 Just an hour from Portland, on Long Lake in Naples, Pine Island is so lovely you sometimes have to repel explorers. “One

of tHe resPecti e agent owner seLLer

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Lower Bi1r2ch m

courtes

is your gateway to stress-free island living.

The 3,000-square-foot self-sufficient residence was built only 10 years ago, meaning it’s probably younger than those jars in the back of your fridge. A vast stone fireplace and solarium will ensure you stay warm during the Maine winters. Solar panels and a complete septic system and a freshwater well service the property. A few yards away, hidden from sight by a row of fir trees, is a cozy guest house with sleeping loft and an ocean-facing deck. The surrounding woodlands give way to lush meadows, scattered blueberry and cranberry bushes, and sandy beaches totaling 55 acres, plus an additional five acres on the South Addison shore that comes complete with boathouse.

Taxes: $15,634

bushes surrounding–what else?–a “Hansel and Gretel” cottage with sleeping loft. Off the back, a small sheltered beach is a great place for swimmers. Maybe you’d like to hang out here too.

Tax: $5,325.16

Pine

Wahl’s

0 000

Fourth of July, I came face to face with a boatful of would-be island partiers,” says seller Jay Bailey. “There were about 25 people on it, all hanging off the sides. When they saw that we were there, they anchored off the island instead and partied there all day.” Since then, “I make sure to go back every year.”

What Bailey values most is that “it’s

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very heavily treed–it’s like a park.” The tall pines rocketing up from this one-acre getaway were once highly prized by shipbuilders, giving names to both the island and its locale: Mast Cove. “Ancient sunken masts are still visible on the island’s shores,” Bailey says. Mingling with the pines are swathes of wild blueberry

ahL’S iSLand 2 0 000 aCreage 1 Once upon a time, passage onto Wahl’s Island required the equivalent of a secret knock. “We used to drive to the boat landing and beep our horn three times,” says owner Kathy Noddin, whose family has owned the island for 80 years. “And then our grandfa-

summerguide 2017 251

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are almost limitless. Nearby, the quiet town of Brooklin offers an escape from seclusion with establishments like Brooklin Candy, Mad Mama’s Paint ’n Sip, and Flye Point Sculpture Garden & Art Gallery. As with most good deals, there’s a catch. The easement requires that the island must be kept open for public access, so your paradise will

Sand iSLand 1 00 000 aCreage 1 A Caribbean quay just half an hour from Portland might sound like fantasy, but Sand Island, located in Casco Bay east of Chebeague Island, comes close. The island is ringed by sandy beaches with deep-water anchorage for boat owners. There are no buildings on the island other than a basic “Bomba’s Shack,” but the sunny beaches provide an ideal vantage point for ad-

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intrigue

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Murder in Paradise (continued from page 175)

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with fellow captain James Otto Barker.

The murder scene was rife with evidence. The walls showed bloody handprints, as did a lacquered Chinese screen.

Muddy boot tracks led up the stairs into the bedroom and back down again. The detectives, however, made no immediate attempt to examine the evidence or to protect the crime scene from disturbance as people came and went freely, touching objects within the room. Nor did the officers initially try to collect fingerprints, claiming the weather was too humid.

Nonetheless, within days, they honed in on a suspect: Sir Harry’s son-in-law, Count Alfred de Marigny. [If you’re casting this thriller in your head, it might help to know de Marigny was played by Armand Assante in Passion and Paradise.]

P inted fingerS & famiLy feudS ount Alfred de Marigny was not a popular figure in Nassau. Arrogant and self-important, he’d managed to alienate both the locals and the privileged whites, who considered him–not without justification–a gigolo and a social climber. His detractors included the Duke of Windsor himself. But perhaps the man who most disliked de Marigny was Sir Harry Oakes. At 32, the penniless, twice-divorced count had eloped with Sir Harry’s 18-year-old daughter, Nancy. Although Sir Harry tried initially to accept the situation, he rapidly come to abhor his son-in-law after Nancy had an abortion.

When questioned by the two detectives, de Marigny offered a sound alibi for the night Sir Harry was killed, accounting for all but half an hour of his time. On scant evidence, and in apparent haste, de Marigny was booked, indicted, and imprisoned, spending the next four months in Nassau’s dour stone jail while the world speculated about his guilt. When de Marigny requested the best attorney in the Bahamas, he learned to his dismay that he’d been preempted in his selection by the prosecution, so he employed two young barristers to represent him during the 25-day trial that held the Western world spellbound.

Looking poised, elegant, and mature beyond her years, Nancy appeared in court every day to testify and to support her husband. Firmly convinced of his in-

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intrigue nocence, she also hired a private detective to investigate further and provide the defense team with whatever information he could discover. or two weeks, the prosecution presented its case, citing family disputes and lust for his father-in-law’s riches as de Marigny’s motives for the killing. Sir Harry’s widow testified against her son-inlaw, and for physical evidence, the Crown offered a single fingerprint that Capt. Barker claimed to have obtained from the Chinese screen. So certain was the prosecution of a conviction that the government ordered the rope for de Marigny’s execution.

But when the defense cross-examined Capt. Barker, the tide in the packed courtroom began to turn. The detective admitted that he’d lifted the crucial fingerprint without having first photographed it on the screen. So questionable were Barker’s methods that defense attorney Godfrey Higgs had little trouble casting doubt on his testimony. He directly accused Barker of lifting the print from a drinking glass that he’d given de Marigny during questioning, and of later planting the print in Sir Harry’s bedroom.

Nor could Barker come up with an explanation as to why neither he nor Melchen had fingerprinted the dozens of people entering and leaving the bedroom–after initially lying by stating that they had. And when Nancy testified that Barker had told Lady Oakes of finding de Marigny’s print several days before it had been identified as de Marigny’s, the jury’s doubt deepened.

Further undermining Barker’s evidence was the testimony of Capt. Maurice O’Neil, a forensic expert for the defense, who swore that de Marigny’s print had not been taken from the screen at all, but rather from an entirely different surface. According to O’Neil, a print lifted from a drinking glass would display no background texture, but a print taken from the Chinese screen could not be lifted without carrying the background texture of the screen along with it.

If it doesn’t print, you must acquit.

In the absence of any evidence other than Barker’s perjured testimony, the jury took less than two hours to free de Marigny. The courtroom, full of a crowd who until recently had wished him hanged, erupted in cheers. There was a rider to the verdict, however: de Marigny was banished

from the Bahamas, effective immediately.

This was the jury’s concession to a single morally minded member who refused to vote for acquittal unless the fast-living de Marigny was removed from the colony.

Following the trial, the Duke of Windsor ordered the official search for Sir Harry Oakes’s killer or killers to be abruptly stopped–nor would it resume in the nearly three-quarters of a century that followed. h iLLed Sir harry There’s no lack of armchair theories about this juicy case, some more farfetched than others. The list of possible suspects is long and gossipy, clanking with scoundrels and criminals. According to various researchers, the American Mafia kingpins Charlie “Lucky” Luciano and Meyer Lansky were interested in building gambling casinos and hotels in Nassau, and some chroniclers have suggested that both the Duke of Windsor and Harold Christie were in league with them, almost tasting the shady money. Author Marshall Houts points out that Lansky and Christie had known each other since “the rum-running days of [P]rohibition” and claims, “[I]t was well known that [Capt.

James Barker] had been on Meyer Lansky’s payroll for a number of years.”

But the irresistible force of Mafia money ran into an immovable object in Sir Harry Oakes, who was unwilling to see his island idyll turned into a gambling den–or so the theory goes. However, this explanation doesn’t stand up under scrutiny. In order for casinos to be built in Nassau, the Bahamas’ no-gambling laws would have to have been formally amended. And as time proved, the removal of Sir Harry Oakes did not suffice to further Lansky’s plan. Only after Fidel Castro’s regime expelled the mob from Cuba was casino gambling introduced into Nassau two decades later. Also, as Marquis points out, the messy murder wasn’t up to Mafia standards; the mob might simply have “disappeared” Sir Harry.

None of this is to say that the Duke of Windsor didn’t have an ulterior motive for burying the case; from the very beginning, his handling of it was nothing short of abysmal. When he called in the American detectives, his specific instruction to them was to find evidence of Sir Harry’s suicide, when the most perfunctory glance

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in t rigu e revealed the deed to be a brutal murder.

After de Marigny’s arrest, he ordered the local police to thoroughly clean the murder room, thereby destroying all forensic evidence and any future hope of identifying the killer. Finally, as the trial demonstrated, the two captains had illegally attempted to railroad a man to the gallows; they wouldn’t have done so without the tacit approval of–and instructions from– their employer, the Duke of Windsor, who despised de Marigny and saw him as the perfect scapegoat. nother possibility is that Harold Christie–soon to become Sir Harold Christie for his contributions to the island’s economy–committed the crime, or had it done. It was Christie who originally persuaded Sir Harry to move to the Bahamas and, according to author William Boyd, owed Sir Harry a considerable sum. When Sir Harry–who was considering a move to Mexico–called in his marker, Christie canceled both the debt and Sir Harry in a single blow.

Marquis also points to Christie, who he posits was in league with a crooked, status-seeking Florida lawyer named Walter Foskett.

Foskett, Marquis argues, considered the Oakes fortune his “personal piggy bank,” charming his way into the family’s good graces and pocketbooks, until he cheated Sir Harry on the purchase of a Rembrandt painting. Oakes swore to “straighten him out,” whereupon Foskett–seeing his swindling schemes coming to an abrupt end– colluded with the ambitious Christie to do away with Oakes. The Duke of Windsor helped cover up the murder, since he and Christie were friends and probable business partners, and Foskett was his legal advisor.

The debate over other possibilities still rages on. Pointing to the feathers on Oakes’s body, some have claimed it was a ritual slaying carried out by the native population, but this is highly unlikely. Sir Harry had worked diligently to improve the lives of the island’s inhabitants and was widely respected by them, nor is there any reported history of a pattern of such slayings on the island.

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According to another theory, the shadowy Swedish industrialist and Nazi spy Axel Wenner-Grenn (the inventor of Electrolux vacuum cleaners), who was purportedly involved in a money-laundering scheme with the Duke of Windsor, slew Sir Harry to prevent him from revealing the Duke’s involvement.

Then there are those who return to Count Alfred de Marigny as the likeliest suspect despite his acquittal, hypothesizing that Sir Harry was about to expose his son-in-law’s shady business dealings, so de Marigny killed him to keep him quiet.

Nonetheless, over time, the most persistent allegations have continued to swirl

FO N SIR ARRY S GRAN A G TER PATRICIA OAKES LEIG WOO o you have any photos o the estbourne mansion

There are no houses in existence today [other than The Willows, the Sir Harry Oakes Chateau in Kirkland Lake, Ontario, and Oak Hall in Niagra Falls, Ontario, now a museum] that Sir Harry actually lived in. The rest have all been torn down. The Oakes family homestead in Dover Foxcroft is now Oakes Field at Dover-Foxcroft School. hen as the last time you sa

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around Sir Harold Christie. Defense attorney Higgs declared in open court that Christie’s account of his actions on the night and morning of the murder was “implausible.” During the trial, Christie testified that he’d spent the entire night inside the mansion, but a Nassau policeman who knew him by sight stated that he’d seen Christie driving downtown that evening. Despite the fact that it brought Christie’s credibility into question, this discrepancy was never pursued. Christie also claimed to have been ignorant of any disturbance in the night, even though his guest room was next door to Sir Harry’s bedroom and there almost certainly would have been significant noise. His account was indeed implausible.

There have been numerous attempts to unearth further evidence over the years, many of which have been met with violence. In April 1950, a Washington attorney named Betty Renner arrived in Nassau for the express purpose of solving the murder.

Two days later, she was bludgeoned and drowned in a well. Marquis calculates that in the 16 years following Sir Harry’s death, investigators researching the Oakes case that Nassau’s power elite failed to solve were murdered at the rate of one a year. any years after her father’s death, Nancy Oakes de Marigny–long since divorced from “Freddie”– issued a heartfelt entreaty that read, in part: “For justice and for decency, [the government] should insist on a vigorous effort… to clear this up, regardless [of] who might be affected by the truth.” Her plea was met with silence.

Sir Harry Oakes’s funeral was held at the family’s Bar Harbor estate. He rests in his family’s marble mausoleum at DoverFoxcroft cemetery, the central figure in a crime that was sloppily committed, offhandedly and corruptly investigated, and ultimately left unsolved. Were it not for the fact that F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote The Great Gatsby some 18 years before Sir Harry’s grisly murder, one might surmise that the author had based his hero on the eccentric prospector: a driven man of humble beginnings who accumulates fabulous wealth, then dies a tragic, violent death. ■

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elcome to the intersection of Pearl and Pleasant Streets, former home to no fewer than five Kennebunk sea captains, and where, in the 19th century, owner Jeffrey Moore’s greatgreat-great-great-grandmother Sally Perkins went from servant to mistress of the house.

Jeff and Jourine Moore, who now live in London, where Jeff’s biotech company demands their attention, are regretfully selling their 1799 ancestral home for $1,295,000.

“Jourine and I dreamed about living here,” says Jeff. “I’m in biotech, so we couldn’t easily find a job in Maine. “I was living in Melbourne, Australia, when I insummerguide 2017 271

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aptains Nathaniel Lord, Oliver Smith, William Lord Jr., Alden B. Day, and William H. Gould have all called 7 Pearl Street home. Historicalfiction author Kenneth Roberts called Jeff’s great-great-grandfather Captain Gould “Kennebunkport’s last deep-water captain” and often consulted with him to keep maritime parlance on course in his novel The Lively Lady.

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C n L and his i e, P , moved into the house in 1799 a ter it as gi ted to them by Phebe s ather, and Phebe gave birth to their nine children there. in 1803, the am ily s teenage servant girl, S P , became regnant by ca tain Lord. when sally s em barrassing condition as revealed, Lord hired a man to marry sally, and she as sent a ay in disgrace. a ter the hired husband died, sally married nathaniel day, a Kennebunk armer. to gether, they raised Lord s illegitimate son and his hal brother, a d . at the age o 12, Bill Perkins, as he as then kno n, a roached his biological ather s cousin, ca tain george Lord o Kennebunk. when george learned o the boy s arentage, he took Bill under his ing, educated him, and restored his right ul name. william Lord r. did not s uander the o ortunities that his ne name granted him. He became a sea ca tain be ore he turned 20 and a ealthy investor in shi s and railroads by the age o 30. the illegitimate son o ca t. nathaniel Lord ent on to become the ealthiest man in Ken nebunk. in 1851, william and his hal brother, ca tain alden B. day, urchased 7 Pearl street or their mother. sally Perkins lived out her li e in lu ury in the home that she had once s e t as a servant, caring or her grandchildren hile her sons ere at sea until her death in 1867.

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herited the house. That’s where I met Jourine. We made a sort of migration from Australia to San Francisco to New York.

Eventually I started my own company, and we were able to move in and send our kids to Kennebunkport Consolidated School.”

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“The history of the house has always been a huge draw for me,” says Jeff. “When we first moved in, the exterior had so many coats of paint. It took me five years, but I stripped all the layers off the house, then primed and repainted it myself. While I worked, I felt a connection with my ancestors, knowing that they had all done the same. I never once complained about painting—Jourine can tell you.”

T FORTUNATO INC. INTERIOR DESIGN BY PATRICIA FORTUNATO, ASID

www.fortunatoincdesign.com

he renovation of the house in 2004 was a labor of love. The Moores credit contractor Tim Spang for working with their ideas to achieve the perfect balance between liveability and historic integrity of the four-bedroom, two-bath, Federal-style home. “We decided to leave the front part of the house as it was,” Jourine says.

As you enter through the front door, twin front parlors with Carrara marble mantels flank the central stairway in the main hall. A Victorian sunroom and covered porch connect the house to the barn, opening onto a stone patio designed by

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Maine historic landscape architect Cindy Brockway. “We found this beautiful dentil molding covered over on the sunroom,” says Jeff. “So we exposed it and duplicated it on the porch. It all had to be hand-cut and ended up costing us about $20,000, but it was worth it.”

Jourine wanted to extend Victorian features into the new kitchen. To learn about authentic Victorian kitchens, Jourine and Jeff traveled to Rhode Island and toured Newport’s elegant Victorian cottages. “They all had subway tiles and massive industrial stoves as a focal point,” Jourine says. “We brought those ideas to Cook & Cook Custom Cabinetry in Scarborough and they did a perfect job making the mahogany cabinets and island. Even the handles were forged in Maine.”

The Moores are sad to see the house go out of the family but have come to terms with the change. “I met Jourine two months before inheriting the house, so we’re 30 years in and ready for the next 30 years.” Taxes are $6,596. ■

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NEW ENGLAND Homes & Living

M A I N E O CE A N F RON T L A N D L IQU I DAT ION!!

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14+ acres with 310’ of waterfront. Near the Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park region.

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4.5 acres with 240’ of waterfront in a private gated community with deeded access to a private 300-ft. pier.

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1.9 acres with more than 400’ of gorgeous ocean frontage. Stunning views. Within a gated community.

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LARGE ACREAGE – more than 317 acres with 3,900+ feet of road frontage and deeded access to the water and a 300-ft. pier.

All parcels are surveyed and soils tested, and have paved roads, power, and a warranty deed. GREAT OWNER FINANCING. C A L L L & S R E A LT Y AT 2 07-4 89 -93 0 0 FOR A DDI T IONA L I N FOR M AT ION OR TO V I EW A PROPE RT Y.

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egant . rnished ho e in ooth a Shing e st e ho e in ast ooth a with re a e . ho e on . a res with ront ar or with go r et kit hen re a e st oor s ites. aint g est ottage on i ings age on a k i er. ne oor i ing de k a to ati aster and s e ta ar iews. $1,395,000 with dee water do k. $1,550,000 generator do k and garage. $737,500

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NEW ENGLAND Homes & Living

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Within an hour of Portland and just off Route 25, this forest includes long stretches of Pease and Pugsley Brooks, two small ponds, home sites and a gravel resource. At a list price of $318,000, it could be your perfect retreat or investment property, without a long drive to get there.

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106 acres overlooking Cobscook Bay Your local alternative to Rocket Mortgage, but with better rates!

With sweeping views of Cobscook Bay, this property is just five miles from Eastport offers homesites, meadows and forest. At a new price of $115,000, this could be your opportunity for a Down East homestead or farm. Neighboring property with a mile of frontage on the bay is also available.

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Natanis Pond. Chain Of Ponds, not far from the Canadian border. This property is the only one on its own point. Log home. 1.8 acres. Log home with fireplace. $309,000 MIDDLE CARRY POND. Carrying Place Township. Log home 7.5 acres and 700ft of pond frontage. Gated access. Furnished. Remote. Gas and wood heat. Generator. Now $260,000 EUSTIS. Grant Cove on Flagstaff lake.

About 10 mins to Sugarloaf. 5+ acres . Custom built beautiful 4 bd 3 bath home. Quality and charm. Private waterfront and guest cottage. $275,000

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Rangeley Lake Views - #11 in the Lodges Gorgeous 3 Level Townhouse w/4 Beds, 2 Baths, Views, Snowmobile Access, Close To Village, New Price! $271,500

Quimby Pond - 51 Hartland Rd. Custom Built Errol Log Home w/123 Feet of Private Waterfront, 3 Beds, 2.5 Baths, Covered Porch, Sold Furnished, Excellent Trout Fishing! $559,000

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Private Lakeside Cabin Tucked On The Shoreline Of Richardson Lake! 2 Beds, Large Shed, Fish The Rapid River Close By! 7-Islands Lease. $197,500

Fully Year Round 4 Bed, 2 Bath Cottage On Shore Western Shore Of Rangeley Lake, Finished Basement, Screened Porch, Hot Tub, Flat Frontage! $399,000

Traditional Maine Cabin Located On Quiet, Fly Fishing Only , Loon Lake, 2 Bed, 1 Bath, Covered Porch Overlooking Water, Quiet & Peaceful Location. $234,000

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Great YR Round 3 Bed, 2 Bath, Cabin W/Beach Access To Rangeley Lake, Boat Harbor, Detached 28x32 Garage, Only Steps To Rangeley Lake! $339,000

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summerguide 2017 285

“Ledgewood Clippings”

Parker Point Oceanfront Estate, Blue Hill MLS#12988983 $3,900,000

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“Alpen House”

Caterpillar Hill, Sedgwick MLS # 1266601 $365,000

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“Seaward Condominiums” Blue Hill Village MLS#1279458 $219,000

At the head of the Schoodic Peninsula 32 Acres on fresh water Jones Pond, Gouldsboro MLS # 1271153 $274,900

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207-591-0365 | Paint.Clarke@gmail.com | www.CLARKEPAINT.com summerguide 2017 289

NEW ENGLAND Homes & Living

Bowdoinham

When in Maine, go to CAMP! This 2.73 acre property boasts TWO camps (think family compound) and 281 feet of frontage on the Cathance River. Bring kayaks, bird watching binoculars, fishing poles and the hammock. There is a two bedroom, seasonal, waterfront cottage plus a one bedroom upland camp. Room for upgrading and/or expansion, or enjoy them just the way they are. Need a break from the R&R? Head in to the vibrant towns of Bowdoinham, Brunswick or Portland. There is a reason why we call this Riverhaven! $274,900.

Westport Island

Quiet and serene, perched on a knoll on 6.8 acres overlooking the Sheepscot River is “Riverledge Lodge”, a beautifully maintained log home with charming detached studio. Enjoy single floor living and entertain on the tiered deck with saltwater pool, all of quality craftsmanship. There is deep water frontage with an extensive/upgraded dock system. A survey plan is available for two additional building lots. Live year-round, create a family compound or use the property for investment as a rental property. All of this and more is located close to oceanfront and convenient to Route 1. $689,000.

Durham

This expansive, custom built, 3 bedroom home is situated on 7.19 acres and sits privately at the end of the road. Built by John Libby, the home offers one floor living with 9 foot and cathedral ceilings, radiant heat throughout, 2 gas fireplaces, wood and tile floors, a master bedroom, green house, a 60 x 40 barn and many more features too numerous to mention. $649,000.

Brunswick

Carefree condo living in Brunswick’s desirable Botany Place. Close to Bowdoin College and Maine Street shops, the view from this private and beautifully maintained unit is of tranquil woods and streams. Enjoy single floor living with a loft and two bedrooms above and a fully finished daylight basement. The laundry and an office are on the first floor, and there is a two car garage. $469,000.

Brunswick

Nestled into a quiet neighborhood on 1.3 beautifully landscaped acres and close to downtown Brunswick is this one-of-a-kind, 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath charming Cape Cod. It features a Kennebec cook’s kitchen with custom built-ins, cherry cabinets and slate counters, a first floor master suite with walk-in closet and recently upgraded bath, a living room, study, den, formal dining room and a large finished space on the second floor. This is a very special and cozy home. $529,000.

Harpswell

This secluded 5 acre retreat is at the southern tip of Spruce Cove Road and offers 2,000 feet of deep water frontage on The Narrows. It opens up to the beauty of nature with woods, deer, maybe an owl overhead, and majestic shorefront. As you stroll through the property, which is surrounded by ocean on three sides, you can listen to the waves lap the shore while basking in the southern sunlight. The peaceful tranquility is a must experience and if you’re an avid kayaker, it’s a dream come true! A perfect opportunity to explore the best of Cundy’s Harbor’s waterfront! $640,000.

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Bartlett, NH • $849,900 A Ski Country Exclusive , Multi-Family Retreat! Enjoy this amazing custom crafted luxury mountain house on its 11 acre wilderness setting with both privacy and convenience in the heart of the Mt Washington Valley. Custom built warm wood interior, cathedral ceilings, center fireplace, wrap deck, gorgeous great room, 4 bedrooms with baths, plus plenty of “extra” rooms to spare, all enhanced by unobstructed views. Move in just in time for the summer fun in the mountains. NH MLS#4611677

Helping Buyers & Sellers Meet their Goals

Call Bernie for Friendly & Professional Service

(207)542-9967

Fryeburg, ME

Bridgton, ME

$219,900

SKI & BOAT from your LAKESIDE condominium townhouse located directly across from Shawnee Peak Ski Resort provides year-round fun right from your dooryard. Rent or enjoy the best of both; winter’s wonderland and summertime waterfront fun.

Moose Pond has boat slips available and nearby quaint Bridgton & Fryeburg villages < 10 miles, ½ hour to North Conway or 1 hour to city and coast.

ME MLS#1289287

$165,000

CHARMING & CONVENIENT In town location, warm & welcoming antique home, walk to Academy & River. Updates done & also needed, awaiting your touch. Grand porch, large kitchen w/ cabinets & counters galore. Spacious dining & living w/ brick frplc, bay window & barn accents. 3 bdrm & full bath up. Extra storage in garage/shop & bsmt.

Grassy side & back yards, metal roof & vinyl siding.

ME MLS#1303847

Fryeburg, ME

$65,000

Expansive 18 ACRES w/mtn views. Set off a quiet country road, cleared building site w/western facing sun & views. Access to surrounding conservation & woods trails & nearby to Kimball Lake. A few miles from Fryeburg Academy yet as private as you could wish to site your home or set up camp and enjoy the wonders of nature, first hand.

SERVICE, RESULTS & SATISFACTION. Under agreement in 17 days w/ 2 back up offers & 9 prospects who missed out and may be looking to own your home. Ready, willing and able Buyers are out there looking for great properties like this upscale, beautiful quality log home on 5+ acres in rural Chatham NH, close to the border of ME … $299,900 Call or Text Bernie today and find out what your home is worth & what you can do to “SELL for MORE”

Fryeburg, ME

For Friendly & Professional Service Call Bernadette (Bernie) Donohue, CRS, GRI (207) 542-9967 • Bernie@BadgerRealty.com 2633 White Mtn Hwy, North Conway, NH 03860 • (603) 356-5757 x310

www.BadgerRealty.com

$75,000

10 ACRES w/road frontage on ALL sides & zoned outlying commercial. Woodsy w/good soils & large enough to provide privacy & exposure. Equidistant to Fryeburg & Lovell villages w/easy access to Lakes & Mtns of ME & NH. Great opportunity for building your next home and/or business. Can be purchased as 5 acre lot(s) separately at $39,900 each.

ME#1286804

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A Shaggy Dog shaggy dog story sha g d g st r n: o , relating to, or being a similar humorous story characteri ed by digression hose humor lies in the ointlessness or irrelevance o the lot or unch line a shaggy dog comedy . y

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y dog, Phoenix, did not make it through the fire. I got out. She did not. Heavy-handed symbolism, except that Phoenix, who did not rise from the flames, was not named for the myth but for River Phoenix, the character Mike in My Own Private Idaho. Whichever, ashes to ashes.

Like Mike, I was searching for my mother, who deserted me and left me to bounce, and not very high, from foster home to foster home until I got my own–a beat-up immobile home at the far end of the trailer court, Happy Acres. Trailer parks are not renowned for their grasp of irony.

So I was dog-less and homeless. Enter Pastor Pete. Pastor Pete was like no other

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pastor I knew, not that I knew many (any) pastors. He actually helped people, helped clothe them, helped feed them. He did not criticize single mothers. He did not hate gay men. For all I knew he was one. He did not hate anyone as far as I could see. A Christian who actually was Christian. He had his own church–The Church of Pete–and he told me that he was named after Peter–thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church–Peter. So he felt a calling and founded his church, but it was not on a rock but rather in an abandoned former Woolworth’s. It still had the red stools at the lunch counter. Nonetheless Pastor Pete led a large flock. On the mezzanine.

Lois was a member of the flock, and that

is how I ended up here. Pastor Pete clothed people, fed people, and sheltered them, and he sheltered me at 1001 Main Street, subsidized housing for seniors, Lois’s unit, number 22.

Lois’s unit was even unhappier than Happy Acres. It smelled like shot support hose, urine-stained bed linen, stale crackers. She went on talking jags, cooked although she could no longer see let alone cook, left food to mold in the refrigerator.

But her dog made the living situation unbearable. Scruffy the dog.

Day One: Lois thrusts Scruffy into my face, says, “Say hello to Scruffy.”

“Hey, Scruff,” I say.

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I pat the stiff, patchy fur.

“Kiss Scruffy.”

“I am not much of a kisser. Sorry.”

Lois pats Scruffy, plants one right on his dry little nose, says, “Poor Scwuffy, are your wittle feelings hurt?”

Scwuffy stares at me unblinkingly with evil green eyes over Lois’s shoulder. I do not avert my own.

A better name for the pup would be Mangy. Scrofulous. Count Scrofula.

Unhappy Acres, the Senior Citizens Subsidized Housing, did not allow pets or live-in guests, for that matter. Scruffy, of course, was dead, the victim of an insanely untalented and equally insanely enthusiastic taxidermist.

I was temporary. Until I could get back on my feet, said Pastor Pete. But temporary.

Not as temporary, I hoped, as old Scrofulous here. Nevertheless I kept on the look out for a taxidermy hobbyist among the old men mumbling to their pajamas in the common room when I passed through. Just in case some old duffer took a notion to stuff me.

Pastor Pete gave me temp work in his food pantry. Sometimes I stacked cans.

Sometimes I kept the ledgers of the food distribution. Sometimes I even ladled stew.

And I looked for work in shopping advertisement papers, store window signs, Craigslist, sometimes just intercepting house painters and carpenters–Hey, could you use another hand? Sometimes feeling Phoenix dogging me, or Phoenix’ ghost. I scoured the streets and pored over the papers and pounded pocky pavement after pocky pavement because I knew that I must. It was life or death absolutely, world with end amen must, to get away from Lois and Scrofulous.

When I got back to Lois’s after one of these job searches, Scruffy met me at the door with his Philips-head muzzle and haunted-house portrait eyes. Comfortably clutched under Lois’s arm, he glared at me.

“Do you want some lunch?” Lois asked.

Lunch was PB & J on stale hamburger buns. Lois fed hers to Scruffy who apparently was feeling peckish.

That was the day Scruffy began talking, Scruffy the talking dog. Scruffy the talking dead dog. Now that could make the midway show. Ladies and gentleman, step right up to see and hear Scruffy the talking dead dog. Tipped the fat lady right off the stage.

Our City…

“RRRRR, I want your sandwich.”

“Now, Scruffy,” Lois said, “you already had your sandwich.”

“RRRRRR.” I stared at Scruffy’s uneaten sandwich and choked down another mouthful of my own. “Lois, you should have gotten a lobster for a pet. Lobsters are immortal unless they die of unnatural causes. Did you know that? They’ll scuttle around on the sea floor until you boil and eat them.”

“Scruffy wants to bite you.” Scruffy needled into my forearm with his immobile mandible.

“Bad Scruffy,” Lois said and tapped him on the nose. “Bad, bad Scruffy.”

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cruffy began tailing me everywhere.

When I opened the bathroom door, he’d be hunkering there, staring at me. When I drank my coffee, he’d be right there begrudging me every sip and gulp.

When I sat on the couch, he planted himself right in front of me as if about to go for the jugular. Cujo. Stuffed Cujo. It might have been comical like The Ghost and Mr. Chicken, but it was creepy. Come to think of it, The Ghost and Mr. Chicken was creepy.

Actually Don Knotts was creepy.

Lois was not helping. Apparently Scruffy had hired her as his interpreter. “Scruffy hates you,” she translated. “Scruffy says you drank milk from the carton. Scruffy says you don’t close the door all the way when you go to the bathroom.”

Finally I sought out Pastor Pete. “Do you know how Scruffy died?” I had begun to think that Lois had assembled Scruffy from recycled dog parts during an electrical storm while villagers with torches stormed the dog pound.

“Not sure,” Pastor Pete said, “but I think natural causes. Everything okay?”

I explained to the good pastor that I thought it was time to find me a new home.

The moment I opened the door I sniffed trouble. Scruffy stood on point at the threshold, followed me into the kitchen, daring me to swill from the carton. Thunder rumbled. Lightning split the skies with glee. I flashed on Phoenix and the fire, and my forearm hairs bristled.

“Scruffy says you ain’t going nowhere.”

I stared at Lois’s eyes; they had the fixed intensity of Scruffy’s. Had Pastor Pete called her? How else could she know? I reached

Con nec t i ng M a i ne p eople wit h t he outdoor s for over 18 ye a r s . visit us at outdoorsportinstitute.org

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out and scratched Scruffy’s mangy ruff, and thought of that old joke about the starving man who eats his trusty dog, picking the bones clean. The punch line: Poor old Rover sure would have loved those bones. he lightning crackled. “Lois,” I said, “I am moving out. But you and Scruffy will be fine. And, Lois,” I added, “Scruffy is dead. Stuffed. Stuffed like a Thanksgiving turkey.”

For a moment, just the briefest moment, Lois looked struck, struck dumb, lightning struck. Then she resumed the ventriloquist act. “Scruffy says you’re a total loser.”

“No soap radio,” I said.

“What?” Scruffy asked.

“No soap radio. Har har har. Trial by fire. Did you hear the one about the dog who chewed on his own bones? So I am walking around and I meet a dog named Rover. When I was a kid we used to play Red Rover at the foster home. Weird name foster home; they do not foster a thing except resentment. Rover was not a shaggy dog. Fur sleek as a seal. I saw a seal once at the zoo. I made that up. Actually I have never been to a zoo. I went to a fair once.

But I digress,” I said.

Scruffy stared glassily. “GRR,” he said, “and you are still a loser.”

I nodded, then headed for the door, thinking that Lois and I were finally not dissimilar, both transformed, disfigured by grief and resurrected by it.

“Bye, Lois,” I said. I glanced at Scruffy, good ole Scruff, but I did not bid Scruffy farewell.

As I closed the door, Scruffy growled and said, “And never come back here, loser.” The door clicked.

I walked with no clear direction where I was headed. Maybe Pastor Pete would let me throw down a pallet on the food pantry floor. Maybe not. A complete unknown like a rolling stone. I walked just walked to the rhythm of this refrain in my head.

From grief we turn away; to grief we return.

And somewhere in the woods a singing bone.

And very very quietly Scruffy bounded down the street. ■

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oan onnor is a pro essor at hio niversity. he has published our collections o short stories and a collection o essays.

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We are proven, consistent leaders in the Maine real estate market. We would welcome the opportunity to put our experience to work for you.

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