Portland Monthly Magazine Summerguide 2020 by portlandmonthlymagazine

1 5 D r e a m I s l a n d s | s o u s v i d e | R o y a l l Ri v e r

Summerguide

The Perfect Summer Playlist

Summerguide 2020 Vol. 35 NO. 4 $9.95

w w w. p o rt l a n d m ag a z i n e . co m Maineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s city magazine

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Pa r k & B ar Har bor, M aine

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This world needs all of us.

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111

C i t y

Maine Life

Perspectives

Food & Drink 111 Hungry Eye

55 Call of the Wild

20 From the Editor

33 The Perfect Summer, a Playlist

115 Beach Vibes

22 Letters

Places in the heart, steeped in the Maine mystique: Eagle Island, Harpswell; The Goldenrod Luncheonette, York Beach; Perkins Cove Bridge and Marginal Way, Ogunquit; the lights of downtown Portland; Mt. Kineo, Moosehead. By Colin W. Sargent

72 Maine Made Special Section

Maine Wildlife Park’s cool critters have backstories. By Madeline Grigg Maine’s beaches have personalities. Here’s who they are. By Sofia Voltin & Desirée Saucier

79 Stay Off of My Cloud

We live on an island? Suspicion in the time of coronavirus darkens when North Haven Island bans People from Away for an embarrassing 48 hours. Where were you when the lights went out? By Sofia Voltin

152

25 Chowder

A tasty blend of the Fabulous, the Eyebrow-Raising, and the Just Plain Wrong. from left: amazingfoodmadeeasy.com; the goldenrod; colin sargent; Emily McCabe

M a g a z i n e

SummerGuide

M a i n e ’ s

“Sous vide, s’il vous plaît!” Greater Portland chefs dare to cook “under vacuum.” By Sofia Voltin

“Synaesthesia” Listening for blue. By Colin W. Sargent

150 Dining Guide

Maine Bicentennial 2020 131 Muddy Waters

Sixteen select area restaurants strut their stuff.

From military bases to sports teams, many names are being changed just now. Does the Royall River deserve a new name? Now is the time to open these uncomfortable discussions. Participating: Sir Ronald M. Sanders, Antigua and Barbuda’s Ambassador to the U.S.; Dr. Natasha Lightfoot of Columbia University; Daniel R. Coquillette, J.D., of Harvard Law School; Dr. Katie Worthing of Yarmouth Historical Society; Osher Map Library’s Dr. Matthew Edney; Patricia Royall; and Esther Agbaje, J.D. We want to hear from you, too. By Colin W. Sargent

151 Restaurant Review “The Floating Opera” DiMillo’s floats our boat. By Colin W. Sargent

Cover: The living room view from 114 Delano Park in Cape Elizabeth. Photo by Olivia Grant. See “Eye of the Needle” page 107. S u m m e r G u i de 2 0 2 0 1 7

Your vacation. Your getaway. Enjoy a deserved getaway in our lovely Inn. Relax in your well-appointed room, gaze at the stars sitting by the ﬁrepit, get a massage in our on-site Sea Breeze Spa, walk to the Pemaquid Lighthouse. All rooms include a fresh made-to-order breakfast. Smell the ocean air. Listen to the seagulls, waves and distant buoy.

Your palate. Your treat. The Bradley Inn’s restaurant features fresh, delicious locally-sourced food every night. Enjoy our homemade meals in our cozy tavern, dining room or outside on the back deck Enjoy a complimentary glass of wine or beer when staying or having dinner – just mention you saw us in Portland Magazine. Dine, Relax, Stay

A Select Registry Property 3063 Bristol Road, New Harbor, Maine | 207-677-2105 | www.bradleyinn.com

from left: Jane Dahmen; pexel.com; colin sargent; Robert McCloskey

C i t y

M a g a z i n e

115

Personalities

The Arts & Style

Shelter & Design

48 Blueberries for Sal

27 Beauty In Seclusion

59 Launch Party

125 Chilling Out

87 16° of Separation

Sarah McCloskey, the mythical elf who inspired Blueberries for Sal, is now a legal eagle on the Maine coast. Just a minute–I have a phone call… By Colin W. Sargent

119 McCarthy v. The Lady from Maine

Former Boston Globe reporter Larry Tye, author of the explosive new Demagogue, unearths the backchannel threats between “Low-Blow” Joe and “Snow White” Senator Margaret Chase Smith. Interview by Colin W. Sargent

Three Maine artists unveil stunning creations from quarantine. By Natasha Gural Two new thrillers add star power to our state. By Sofia Voltin

140 Experience

It’s time to get outside! We’re all looking forward to unforgettable events in memorable venues.

SummerGuide

M a i n e ’ s

A sister to Hemingway’s Pilar launches in Maine this September. By Colin W. Sargent Your private island getaway is closer than you think. By Sofia Voltin

107 Eye of the Needle

Own the home with the world’s best view of Portland Head Light. By Colin W. Sargent

152 House of the Month

“Swing Time” It’s a Family Affair at 53 Rachel Carson Lane in Wells. By Colin W. Sargent

156 Homes & Living

Exciting properties to make your fantasy of a home in Maine come true.

76 Maine By Mail Special Section

178 Fiction

“The Meta-Memoir of Toby, the Porcine Sage” By Joan Connor

146 Visit the Kennebunks Special Section

SummerGuide 2020 19

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Synaesthesia

ʽʽ

ʼʼ

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PHOTO TOURS and beyond

y name is Colin Sargent, and I have synaesthesia. It’s “a neurological condition in which stimulation of one sensory or cognitive pathway (for example, hearing) leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory or cognitive pathway (such as vision),” according to Psychology Today. Can you hear the color blue? I’ll bet Miles Davis could. That’s called chromaesthesia. Lady Gaga has it. Mary J. Blige has it. According to The Psychologist, Vladimir Nabokov and Van Gogh had it. Ditto for Duke Ellington. My variation is grapheme-color synaesthesia, which means I unswervingly assign colors to numbers and letters. Nobody asked me to have it. I know it’s annoying. (Has that ever stopped me?) All I can do is shrug. If you write the number 5 in a green magic marker, I’ll suffer through it. But in my silvery brain, I’ll know it’s the wrong color. Oh, so wrong! In the 1990s, my wife and son asked me to tell them the colors I assign to each number and letter, then locked the list away in a drawer. They love me, but wouldn’t it have been delicious to catch me in an error in my private universe? I don’t have to go to my notes to tell you. Number 1 is black, 2 is dark blue, 3 is yellow, 4 is light orange, 5 is red (just ask Robert Indiana), 6 is light gray, 7 is green, 8 is brown, 9 is light yellow, and 0 is white. This isn’t an opinion; these are facts. If you write to editor@portlandmonthly.com, I’ll tell you what color the letters are. Ten years later, my dear family members took out my answer sheet and quizzed me. I didn’t blink an eye. I got an A (light yellow). This doesn’t mean I don’t put the pretzels in the potato chip can and vice versa. We’re all individuals. We’ve got to follow our sensory pathways bringing us together here. Maine—with its cities, forests, booming surf, and screeching gulls—lights up so many of our private connections. You’ve heard mine. Let’s explore yours now. Ready, set, turn the page.

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E x t raordinar y P erspec t ive

Portland TM

Maine’s City Magazine

165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-0101 www.portlandmagazine.com www.portlandmonthly.com

Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Bailey Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Per Lofving Advertising Executive per@portlandmonthly.com editorial Sofia Voltin Assistant Editor & Publisher sofia@portlandmonthly.com Gwen Thompson Copy Editing Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ accounting Jennifer Lord Controller jennifer@portlandmonthly.com Interns Anthony Emerson, Olivia Grant, Madeline Grigg, Meagan Jones, Desirée Saucier, Andrew Yang subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $35* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine, a.k.a. Portland Monthly Magazine, is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-0101. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Jennifer Lord. Newsstand Cover Date: Summerguide 2020, published in June 2020, Vol. 35, No. 4, copyright 2020. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 75 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design. In 2018, the magazine won two National Association of Real Estate Editors medals for editorial excellence.

S a r g e n t

Publishing, inc.

S ummerguide 2 0 2 0 2 1

letters editor@portlandmonthly.com

Books, cards, journals, gifts, & the Largest Selection Of Magazines on the peninsula Spot-On Summer We received the latest Portland Magazine yesterday (thank you!), and at first I thought “Lousy timing!” But then I thought, “Wait a minute, genius!” It could not be better to have this magazine and dream of a normal summer and all the things we will be doing. If only my ad could have been in this issue! Oh well. Tom Johnson, Gorham Story Runners My husband Jamie is a 6th-generation boatbuilder, and his great-grandfather William Frost built rum runners. I’ve seen quotes from an article written by John Durward, “The Portland Rum Runners.” It supposedly ran in Portland Magazine in 1984— except Portland didn’t start until 1985. I’ve also looked at old issues of Greater Portland Magazine when you were editor, but I haven’t been able to find the article. Thank you for your time and any insight you can give me! Ruth Lowell, Yarmouth Please see “A Moon for the Misbegotten” [April 1987] and “Rum Runners’ Paradise” [October 2002]. —Ed.

207-772-4045 • MONUMENT SQUARE

PORTLAND’s Landmark BOOKSTORE WWW.LONGFELLOWBOOKS.COM 22 p o r t l a n d magazine

Sexy City Wow! I was surprised to have [“Love in a Cold Climate,” February/March 2020] cross my path. I think Ron Feintech and I did a good job. We may be the 46th sexiest state, but yes, we are all naked under our snowsuits! Thank you for mentioning Raising Sexually Healthy Children workshops just because you were intrigued by them. Jennifer Wiessner, Cumberland

“A lake…is the earth’s eye.” Henry David Thoreau

See it aboard the Katahdin. Katahdin Cruises on Moosehead Lake. Sailing late June through mid-October Tel: (207) 695-2716 Fax: (207) 695-2367 PO Box 1151 Greenville, ME 04441

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Summerguide 2020 23

Langsford Road Lobster & Fish House

Lobsters, Steamers, PEI Mussels, Oysters, Littlenecks, Haddock, Wild Salmon, Halibut, Swordfish, Sole, Scallops, Lobster Meat, Maine Crab Meat, Smoked Salmon, Finnan Haddie, Smoked Herring, Wild Large Raw Shrimp, Cocktail Shrimp, Sushi-grade Tuna, Scottish Salmon, Cod, Baby Shrimp, Smoke Bluefish, New England Clam Chowder—Cup or Quart We cook your lobsters & shellfish for free! Come visit one of the last working fish houses in beautiful Cape Porpoise Harbor. We buy some of our fresh seafood directly off our local fishermen. We take pride in offering our customers the freshest and highest quality seafood we can obtain.

John Green, Owner for 28 Years

Check out our Facebook page for updates!

Call ahead to order pick-up! 207.967.1950

42 Langsford Road • Cape Porpoise, Maine WWW.LANGSFORDROADLOBSTER.COM greenmarine1@yahoo.com

odonut h W

State Street Trellis

Clockwise from top left: olivia Grant; stephen king; old orchard chamber

The purple wisterias climbing the white granite John Neal house are in full bloom. They cling onto iron balconies like grapes on a vine. For lush wisteria blossoms that can compete with those gracing 173-175 State Street, Andrew Brand, a curator at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, advises at least six hours of sun, “consistently moist but well-drained soils,” and a disciplined pruning regimen. “With these conditions, the vines will be happy.” But “wisteria can be pretty invasive,” climbing, overtaking, and breaking man-made structures. Neal’s 1836 home, built with stone from his own quarry in Yarmouth, not only withstands the strength of the wisteria but provides a striking background so the vines can shine.

The Big Bang

Fireworks aren’t just the city-sponsored July 4 shows along Maine’s coast. Private, over-the-counter consumer fireworks were legalized in 2011 after 63 years, allowing fireworks stores to open here. State Fire Marshal Joseph Thomas says legislation to ban the incendiary art dates to 1949. “Significant fires had been attributed to fireworks, along with concerns that followed the forest fires of 1947.” His office reports 11 fires started by fireworks last year and an explosion of 21 new stores.

In 1847, 16-year-old Hanson Crockett Gregory from Rockport revolutionized the donut—or so the story goes. “I cut into the middle of that doughnut, the first hole ever seen by mortal eyes!” Gregory said in a 1916 interview with The Washington Post. A 1947 plaque stands in his honor at 179 Old County Road, Rockport, now the Nativity Lutheran Church, even though Gregory’s claims are impossible to prove. “Everybody has a donut story,” says Alexis Iammarino, the curator behind the art catalog Hole History: Origins of the American-Style Donut. Since 2014, she’s collected stories about the donut’s hotly debated origins. “Donuts are a wonderful way to bring people together.” Share your donut creation myths with her via the DIAL4-DONUT hotline (370-9455).

Magic Tree Chainsaw artist Josh Landry has transformed trees into art for 18 years. For recent clients Stephen & Tabitha King, he sculpted the trunk of a dead ash tree into a bookcase crawling and sprouting with life. “Tabitha suggested it,” Landry says. “She wanted the tree to be all-giving, with branches coming through the books, feeding the mushrooms and insects.” Add a dash of ravens, frogs, and a dragon for wonder.

Summerguide 2020 25

WA R R I O R P R I E S T

DO ON N JJUS US T T II N N M ME SS ERV EE D E ERV D O N J US T I N M E S ERV E WA R R I O R P R I E S T

RE T ROS PEC T IV E . M AY 1930 – JPIECES U NE 29.ON M ANY PIECE FOR SALE. S ALE . RETROSPECTIVE WITH LOAN ANDS FOR RE T ROS PECRECEP T IV E . TM –U JU NE 29. M A2N S .FO R S A LE . I OAY N 19 S AT RDAY, M AY 3Y , 5PIECE – 8 P. M THIS WORK WILL BE ON VIEW ALL SUMMER SEASON RECEP OAY N S19 AT–UJRDAY, M AY 3Y , 5PIECE – 8 P. M RE T ROS PEC T IV ET. IM U NE 29. M A2N S .FO R S A LE . WITH A SPECIAL CELEBRATION OF MESERVE’S CAREER RECEP T I O N S AT U RDAY, M AY 2 3 , 5 – 8 P. M . SEPT. 1-30

PA P E R B A G

OR ACLE

PENGUIN

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detail from Sequestered I (2020). All three paintings in the Sequestered series have the same specs: 40â&#x20AC;? x 40,â&#x20AC;? acrylic on canvas. $5,000. janedahmen.com.

T he Arts

Beauty In Seclusion

Maine artists emerge from quarantine with creative breakthroughs.

By N ata sha Gur al

Summerguide 2020 27

the arts

T Simple Twist of Fate (2020) Cement, sand, and cement dye 10 x 5 x 5 ft. Price on request. aarontstephan.com. 28 p o r t l a n d magazine

he coronavirus pandemic has shuttered the global art world, forcing museums, galleries, and artists to mount virtual exhibitions and rethink how art is made, shared, and sold.

Yet artists in Maine have been able to thrive in their studios throughout the state, embracing new techniques, mediums, and

from left: aaron stephan; william crosby

â&#x20AC;&#x153;In a lot of ways, this was the perfect piece to create during the pandemic.â&#x20AC;?

Chaos and Turmoil (2014-2020) Acrylic on linen 24 x 34 in. $3,400. artcld.com/artist/william-crosby

“I relished the what I was

themes. Myriad emotions, from discovering everyday delights in isolation to despondency over six million reported cases worldwide, have led to creative breakthroughs that transform each artist’s work.

isolation since April.”

Jane Dahmen Sequestered I (2020) Solitude and contentment radiate from the

challenge to paint experiencing in

point of view of a woman reclining in her living room, ankles crossed under a glass table atop a vibrant red, patterned carpet, her wine glass spilling into view. A thriving geranium surrounded by art books draws the viewer’s eye back to the center of the canvas from its travels across the busy, eclectic interior. Sequestered I is the first in a series of three Sequestered paintings the Summerguide 2020 29

T h e A rt s

SOUTH PORTLAND’S

41ST ANNUAL ART IN THE PARK FINE ART SHOW & SALE

CONGRATULATIONS To this year’s Arthur Hahn Scholarship Winner:

AMELIA QUINT-WOOD

Amelia Quint-Wood

To view the Artists & Photographers’ websites please go to the Art in the Park website at www.artintheparkmaine.org

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prolific Newcastle artist Jane Dahmen has completed over the last two months. “For 40 years I’ve been a landscape painter, but I relished the challenge to paint what I was experiencing in isolation since April,” says Dahmen, 78. “I’m lucky to be healthy and safe as I hunker down. My inhome studio has seven windows and beautiful light.” Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Dahmen explored conservation lands of the Mid-Coast region, painting views of deciduous forests bordering rivers and the coast. Suddenly confined to her home studio on the Damariscotta River, she found new inspiration indoors. Sipping a glass of wine, she painted what’s as much a self-portrait revealing only her slipper-clad feet as an interior evoking David Hockney’s playful style. “The Sequestered paintings got me back to work after a long fallow period following the death of my husband last July,” Dahmen says. “And then the hectic life I lived before the pandemic came to an abrupt halt. Being alone with time to grieve and reflect on our life together has brought me peace.” Shifting genres has renewed her optimism for universal healthcare, economic equality, and environmental stability. Aaron T Stephan Simple Twist of Fate (2020) he harsh industrial feel of a towering 10-foot tall contortion is softened by the calming pink and gray earth tones of the five hand-twisted concrete blocks nestled into each other within this monumental work. From every angle, the sense of a looming threat is juxtaposed with the continuity of symmetry. Portland artist Aaron T Stephan, who shares a studio with his wife, artist Lauren Fensterstock, painstakingly stacked the twisted blocks to form an imposing column-like sculpture. It “includes some political implications of a ‘twisted’ structure that fails to function in the traditional sense —certainly a reflection of our current situation,” he says. “In a lot of ways, this was the perfect piece to create during the pandemic, because it involved a massive amount of physical labor to fabricate. I could come to the studio every morning and produce and make, then leave the studio exhausted, taking my mind off the pandemic.”

William Crosby Chaos and Turmoil (2014–2020) razen brushstrokes of bold color mingled with transparent hues on natural linen confound the eye, tugging the viewer between rigid lines and loose gestures, as our collective confusion and fear over the pandemic and quarantine burst from the frenzied canvas. William Crosby left some of the bare linen exposed when he abandoned this abstract landscape painted from his home studio along the tidewater of the Saint George River in 2014. As COVID-19 crept into the country, he started working on several new paintings, but this one, originally titled Abyss, called to him amid “the chaos and turmoil of the world.” As the virus began to spread, he returned to the unfinished work and grew fond of the raw, unprimed linen, a departure from his usual technique of painting on stretched and primed cotton. Crosby says the sanguine red and alarming orange represent the loss of thousands of lives, while the light blue and white signal “hope and a new day.” n

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www.ogunquit.org

The

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Perfect Summer,

a Playlist

By Colin W. Sa r g e n t

Kevin Shields

nce upon a time in the recent future we lost ourselves in our own research, enchanted with this list of local attractions and grateful for the state we call home. We found the Maine Mystique unleashing the wild child in all of us. We canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to share our destination playlist, so dazzling it floats free of time. Summerguide 2020 33

Attraction s

ho needs to invest in gold if you can plump for a seaside lobster roll and a locally brewed beer with friends– or visit any of these?

ven at 17, Robert Peary knew how to keep his eyes on the prize. On a camping trip with classmates from Portland High School’s Class of 1873, he spied a wild green island. Against its soaring cliffs, gulls careened with still wings, rising in the wind. He got into his rowboat and started pulling toward Eagle Island. Spindrift, seaweed, sea roses, pristine beaches—it was the wildest, most romantic hideaway he’d ever seen. Then and there he vowed he’d own it someday. After graduating from Bowdoin in 1877, he did buy it. It’s a launching pad for his dreams and ours—a midpoint between here and eternity. This Maine state park, crowned by Peary’s private belvedere atop a rocky crag, is number one on our list of places to visit this summer. What a hideaway for practicing the art of social distancing! When Admiral Peary set sail for polar expeditions to the Arctic Circle, his ship, the 182-foot S.S. Roosevelt, picked him up here. (His wife, Josephine, christened their new steam vessel by smashing a bottle of champagne frozen in a block of ice against her hull.) Josephine was in the cottage on September 6, 1909, when the telegram reached her by boat from Harpswell: “Have made good at last. I have the Pole. Am well. Love, Bert.” Eagle Island was the first stop for the Roosevelt returning to the United States, flying the North Pole flag. Today, Josephine and Robert’s cottage is so full of their private trappings—even their spirits—it seems they were here just a second ago.

Touchs tone s

Steven Ingram, one of the Friends of Eagle Island, takes us inside. “Peary’s unique fireplace is built from the three main stone types found on the island. It was his idea.” Peary’s grandson, the late Commander Edward P. Stafford, USN, wrote that the 34 p o r t l a n d magazine

fireplace’s west side is “of white quartz-like rock, the east of reddish stones, and the south of black.” Higher up the chimney, “the top feet of the fireplace are pebbles brought back from the Arctic Circle,” Ingram says.

Tickling the Ivorie s

The custom-made pianola here “was built for the S.S. Roosevelt,” Ingram says. “It was created with one octave less than a standard player piano—narrow enough to fit into the captain’s cabin, which also makes it fit perfectly into the alcove” of the cottage’s salon. After the Admiral died, the instrument “was on Eagle Island until the family gave the island to the state,” entertaining the seals with its haunting sounds. Then “Bert Peary III took the instrument to his home in Vancouver. But on the 100th anniversary of 1909,” the year Peary drew closest to the Pole, “Bert III gave it back to the island. He and one of Ed Stafford’s grandsons tried to trailer it 3,000 miles from the West Coast to Maine. They got stopped at the border because the ivory keys were a regulated substance. They had to get approval to transport ivory from the Canadian side to the U.S.” After some dickering, the pianola made it to South Freeport, where Falls Point Marina owner Carter Becker has a business

taking things out to islands by barge. He loaded the pianola onto a track vehicle narrow enough for the Eagle Island pier, then “up the island path strewn with wildflowers and nasturtiums, the track vehicle got it up to the deck, and it was manhandled the rest of the way.”

M e m e of th e B e auti fu l Str a ng e r

aiting with fanfare “were visitors congregated in the living room,” Ingram says. “The pianola came with a case just a foot square but five feet tall, carrying about 70 [player piano] rolls.” Somebody asked if there were a pianist in the house. “Among the guests was a young couple with a father-in-law. The father-in-law pointed to his daughterin-law. ‘She does!’ She was shy and reluctant, but she sat down. She did some tentative scales. Played some chords. Sounded pretty good. Then she banged out a ragtime song that is still echoing across the island. “Bert Peary III looked at the rolls. ‘You just played “Maple Leaf Rag” beautifully. It’s my favorite song.’” He fished out a dusty roll and held it toward her. “‘I’d lost it for a long time, then recently found it. You played it better than this!’” Even if you can’t make it to the island this summer, you can listen online to the exotic tremble of the Eagle Island piano-

photo: michael Leonard. sources: interviews & CDR Edward P. Stafford’s peary and his promised land

1.E

Where Eagles Dare

Visit Maine’s Oldest Lighthouse

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36 p o r t l a n d magazine

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la playing songs from the original rolls that entertained scientists aboard the Roosevelt in the Arctic, including “Maple Leaf Rag.” Visit pearyeagleisland.org/pianola-music. “The reason we’ve put the songs on the internet is, the rolls were so fragile,” Ingram says. (There’s enough guilt in the world. Who’d want to hear his or her priceless request crumble mid-tune?) “Bert Peary III wanted it to be playable on the island, not just a museum piece. So the idea was to play many of the disintegrating rolls one last time.”

from left: detroit publishing co. library of congress; Ray Bernoff – raybernoff.com; courtesy the goldenrod

Autocr at of the Bre akfa s t Table

ot all sounds on Eagle Island across the decades need to be preserved. The voiceprints must be everywhere from the shout fests that must have ensued when Josephine raised a rescue expedition to the Arctic Circle after Robert’s letters home stopped, only to discover he was leading a double life at the dome of the world with his Inuit lover. The 14-year-old Aleqasina bore him at least two children. In today’s lens, the power differential is even more chilling when you think of Josephine journeying across the ice to save her husband, only to find him committing statutory rape. Then there was the irony that Josephine, author of the world-wide bestseller The Snow Baby, had to ask permission to enter her husband’s library on the island. “The library was off limits,” Ingram says, “at least when the Admiral was there. Even family members had to knock.” What about when he was away? “When he was away, she could use it.” This couple certainly had some things to work out. In therapy. “When Ed Stafford retired, he became a speech writer for Senator John Warner of Virginia, a former Secretary of the Navy. The [extended] Peary family had reunions periodically on Eagle Island, even after they Continued on page 40.

2. The Goldenrod T

ime stopped here in 1896. Ever since, saltwater taffy hypnotically stretches and twists behind the plate-glass windows of this oldfashioned teahouse to the delight of parents and children alike. Inside, college students serve luncheonette fare on freshly varnished tables and chairs beneath the dark Arts and Crafts ceiling beams. Summerguide 2020 37

Attraction s

It’s one thing to walk over the wooden footbridge at Perkins Cove, quite another to approach it by sea. You don’t see it until you’re well into the harbor. Since its construction for $12,979 in 1941, “children, especially, race to the center of the bridge, their fingers at the ready on the control button, hoping a high-masted boat will necessitate the raising of the bridge,” according to Ogunquit.org. When my inlaws visited from India, the bridge was on my playlist to share with them. High atop the span, we looked at the fishing fleet moored near Barnacle Billy’s. Then we turned to the sea, connecting so much vast and dear. I remember a light breeze. 38 p o r t l a n d magazine

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Attraction s

p here, you feel like you’re flying. Dating to 1928, the Ogunquit Art Colony’s Marginal Way lets you enjoy the “myth of the repeatable moment” (a phrase coined by poet Barbara Lefcowitz) as you fall into step with legends who have loved this cliff walk, including Eva Marie Saint, Myrna Loy, Ethel Barrymore, Van Johnson, Anthony Quinn, Cesar Romero… too many Ogunquit Playhouse stars to mention. Bette Davis knew it too. In her early years, she was a lifeguard here at Ogunquit Beach and worked in a hotel on Marginal Way. As Carson Kressley has joked to Portland Magazine in an interview, “There’s nothing marginal about Marginal Way!” [See “The Beautiful & Tanned,” May 2010.]

Continued from page 37. gave it to the state. On one of the last reunions, Ed Stafford took the initiative and said, ‘We should invite the Inuit Pearys.’” He contacted them, but “They said they couldn’t afford the transportation from Greenland. So Stafford asked the commander of the U.S. Navy detachment [at Nuuk, Greenland] if they could provide transportation for the family members on some of their flights. The commander said, ‘Of course not. This is a U.S. Navy base paid for by taxpayers. We don’t give free rides to Inuits or anybody else.’ “Three days later Stafford got a call from the commander: ‘Who the hell do you know!?’” Most likely it was Senator Warner. But who knows? Maybe Elizabeth Taylor, Warner’s wife, intervened. The upshot was, the whole family got together that summer.

e ag le isl and Gu ide s Spill the Be ans

What is the hidden object in plain sight? “Admiral Peary! Many, many people who come out here don’t know who he was. The docents were stunned at first, but they’re used to it now. So many people just think they’re ‘going to an island,’ even though the tour boats are well informed and do what they can.” As Simone Simone used to say, “Nostalgia isn’t what it used to be.” 40 p o r t l a n d magazine

From top: Eric Taubert; Claire Bigby

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The Green 5. Dream H clockwise from top left: William Musser; friends of eagle island; Matt Metcalf

enry David Thoreau was first bewitched by Mt. Kineo in 1853. He reached its peak in 1857. Today the summit is best viewed by seaplane or during a spellbinding trip across Moosehead Lake aboard the steamboat Katahdin, built at Bath Iron Works in 1914.

s for magic objects in the house, “There are two or three things the Friends of Eagle Island have been particularly interested in, because we got them donated back. In 2009, on the 100th anniversary of the North Pole expedition, we made a major effort to get as many items as we could. We have a ship’s eight-bell clock from the Roosevelt. It still works. The narwhal tusks are carefully taken care of. The sextant used by Peary on the Roosevelt was really the explorer’s backup. His number one sextant is in the Smithsonian. Peary’s watchcoat that was used on the Roosevelt. Things like that. “We did an inventory of the library and found that there are first editions that really shouldn’t be on the island, because they’re so valuable. One of them is a first-edition copy of Anne of Green Gables. It’s worth $50,000 to $60,000. We have a security system out here. There have been cases where curio shop owners have tried to get off the island” with a keepsake or two. “The nasturtiums people remember are still out here. Some are part of the original Peary gardens. Gardeners come out each summer to try to protect and preserve them. “The question people forget to ask is, ‘How could a family come out and stay on the island six months of the year?’ It amazes people that the Pearys would stay out here through October. Robert Peary Jr. said his mother said, ‘We winter over in Washington D.C., but our home is Eagle Island.’ No electricity. People kind of marvel that they’d put themselves through that.”

aybe it’s the gulls swirling above the cottage who keep the deepest secrets. Peary may have believed he reached the geographic North Pole in 1909—we all have our illusions—but history has shifted its gaze to three guys on snowmobiles who are now credited as the first humans to reach the North Pole, on April 19, 1968. Summerguide 2020 43

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6. Cliff 7. Notes

Downtown Portland— A Magic Scale

from top: olivia Grant; file photo; courtesy photo; grant simmons

Our metropolis is a trick of the eye. Downtown skyscrapers lure sailors and motorists with a rhapsody in blue, yet they’re scaled so they’re never too tall for seagulls to land on top.

When we hosted a premiere for Maine native Victoria Rowell’s new film Jacqueline and Jilly at Portland Museum of Art, no after-party experience would do but a cocktail at the Top of the East at the Westin.

“I had heard the growl of black waters on black rock at Otter Cliffs,” Norman Mailer writes in Harlot’s Ghost. On a dare, the young novelist climbed the sheer, slippery monument as a rite of passage. Halfway up, he risked a glance down and was frozen by “the wet, black stone as oily as a garage floor.” The nooks and crannies and tussocks of grass on the cliff’s face reminded him of “human body parts.” Summerguide 2020 45

Modern medicine, timeless care.

10 Wayman Lane • Bar Harbor, ME • 207.288.5081 • www.mdihospital.org 46 p o r t l a n d magazine

attr act i o n s

Celebrate

Th e

Extended

Maine’s Bicentennial

Summer Playlist

▶ The ferry approaches the dock at Peaks Island. The beats from Reggae Sunday grow louder, and my toes start tapping. I can’t wait to start sipping on a rum bucket and groove with friends.

PEMAQUID POINT, BY BENNETT CHRISTIANSON

▶ With salty hair and the sand still between my toes, summer’s in full swing on my first full beach day followed by burgers and frappes at Fat Boy Drive-In in Brunswick.

by Helping Protect What Makes Maine Special

▶ Dancing with the tipsy crowds of Old Orchard Beach, accompanied by the bitter taste of pier fries drowned in vinegar.

courtesy photo; AlexandraRonca

▶ Step off the beaten path in downtown Portland to check out the newest graffiti art on the 1,500-square-foot exterior back wall of Aura. ▶ Waking up after karaoke night at Blackstones with a pounding headache and a powerful craving for some comfort food at Becky’s Diner.

Join the Natural Resources Council of Maine A guiding light for Maine’s environment for more than 60 years

▶ (Not) Jumping off Frye’s Leap. Watching others take the leap of faith (or being arrested) always makes for an unforgettable day on Sebago Lake. n What’s on your perfect summer playlist? Let us know: staff@portlandmonthly.com. Summerguide 2020 47

Isn’t T hat…

Blueberries for Sal I

n 1948, impish Sal McCloskey charmed wild blueberry land and the rest of the world as the main character of her dad’s Caldecott Medal-winning children’s book Blueberries for Sal. In the years since, we’ve upshifted to a fast and frightening world. It isn’t just a black bear who chases us now. In times like these, we deserve a treat—maybe the chance to meet someone sweet and eternal, if a little piquant? In fact, we need to hear from Sal right now. Surprise: Sarah (“Sal”) McCloskey is a real-estate attorney who for 44 years has

By Col i n W. S argent

practiced law on the coast of Maine. Do readers recognize and hail her? Do they ask her about antioxidants? The Sal we meet is succinct and tart, her wry sense of humor a little dark, like a Maine blueberry. And what she has to say is a mouthful: “I’m not sure I want to talk on the phone. I don’t want to do the same old, same old.” How about the same new, same new? It’s been such a weird year. Do you have just a second? Many readers feel like they grew up with you.

I think you should come aboard the island, because it’s a totally different take. Just doing it on the phone, you’re not going to get the gist of it. My float will be done and out soon. You could bring a camera. We’d love to take you up on that. We feel like we’re already there. Who doesn’t love Little Deer Isle? But the story is for this summer.

Well, maybe you could come up this summer and run the story next summer. The summer of 2021. Now this is the Sal I remember longing to meet during my childhood. An acute awareness, searingly present in the moment. As a character, she seizes control of 48 p o r t l a n d magazine

Blueberries for Sal without saying a word. If you’re seven years old when a world-famous book is named for you, you know you’ve got star quality. I’d like to accept your invitation for a visit and talk a bit now, maybe with a follow-up call later. We do great island coverage—we cover Dream Islands for sale every year.

Then I’ll have something to read.

from top: courtesy DownEast Acadia Regional Tourism; details from robert McCloskey’s Blueberries for Sal

Remember Blueberries for Sal? We’ve found her!

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 

The score is now Sal: 2, interviewer: 0. I should have asked: how are you doing during coronavirus?

I’m doing just fine during coronavirus. I live alone anyways. I’m glad I don’t have children here with me right now, because it would complicate things. I am working remotely, as you are. I work at home. It’s what I do anyway. She’s practiced in Ellsworth, from 8 Sterling Street. When the weather gets warmer, she floats out to the island. So it’s still a full-on law career?

I’m not in active practice. I’m not going to lunch with anybody. But I am still doing deed surveys. It’s a provocative picture: Sal, a real-estate attorney on the coast of Maine, leaning into her cell phone to give an update to a closing company, agent, buyer, or seller. A business person, but still aware of transactions of beauty.

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you

Moving Maine Forward.

Fun Facts • Beyond Maine, the McCloskeys were world travelers while Sal and Jane grew up, wintering in Switzerland, Italy, Mexico, and St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands. • Sarah went to Fox Lane High School in Westchester County, New York.

E L I Z A B E T H

P R I O R

Latitude & Longitude Silver, Gold & Glass

• She graduated from Mount Holyoke College, B.A. 1967. • She earned her J.D. at New England School of Law, Class of 1976, and was admitted to the bar that year. • Sarah has two children. Samantha Hawkins is a design director at EY Design Studio in Philadelphia. Seth Hawkins remains in Maine and is a chief mate at Kirby Offshore Marine. • Robert McCloskey’s One Morning in Maine features Scott Island off Little Deer Isle, where the McCloskey family kept a summer home. In 2017, Sal and her sister Jane gave Little Scott Island (west of Scott Island) to the Nature Conservancy to protect the eider ducks that nest there.

HOME It means more now than ever

• Robert (1914–2003) and Margaret (Peggy) McCloskey (1917–1991) had granted an easement for the conservation of Little Scott Island (in 1974). • Author’s note: I have One Morning in Maine to thank for my love of steamed clams and outboard motors.

I see you’ve done some pro bono work in the past.

If someone needs work on their deed and has trouble paying, I’ve helped some people out. I’m dying to ask you this. In the 21st century, when people can’t resist lecturing each other on the latest food fads, has anyone come up and “’splained” to you the antioxidant properties of blueberries?

People don’t pretend to lecture me on blueberries! I eat them all the time. Raspberries and blueberries are my favorite fruits. Raspberries! Sounds like a sequel…Hey, Sal, this is more than your dad got out of you about your adventures in Blueberries for Sal. Just sayin’. n

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Summerguide 2020 53

r oad trip

Marilyn, a bald eagle, was injured in a nest fall on Frye Island in Sebago Lake. She was rehabilitated at Avian Haven in Freedom, Maine, and came to Maine Wildlife Park in 2005.

Call of the Wild We’re talkin’ to you.

“W from top: emily mccabe; jim cumming

e care for our animals,” Emily MacCabe says of life inside Maine Wildlife Park in Gray. We give them names but still treat them with the respect you should give any wild animal. The animals here are ambassadors for each species.” Especially when you consider their backstories. Marilyn the Bald Eagle So I can’t fly—what of it? It doesn’t make me any less of a creature. I imagine the buoyancy of flight, the wind through my pinfeathers. When I fell from my nest on Frye Island as an eaglet, the experience was weightlessness, adrenaline…only the landing was different. I still feel called to the air sometimes, but I’ve learned perspective from my perch. It’s not a sweeping bird’s-

By Madeline Grigg

eye view, but up close I see things in greater detail. Do you have a problem with that?

Byron the Bull Moose With no mother to follow, I didn’t know where to go. Cars whizzed by, a blur of color or a blast of music, always in such a rush. My mother had just stepped onto the pavement when monstrous light and noise crashed into her. I was just about to step onto the road behind her. Instead, I could only sit, waiting for her to stand. Game warden Kris MacCabe found me here on Route 17 in Byron and brought me to the park. It’s now been seven years. Some of the people rush by, but most are content to stand by my enclosure and wait with me for a time. They think my eyes are enormous. I think they’re just right. Call Me Gaggle Who cares if our goslings look like fuzzy, Summerguide 2020 55

road trip

Patty & Spencer are sibling mountain lions from Montana. They were only a few months old when they were introduced to the park. “Their mother had been shot,” superintendent Howie Powell says. Mountain lions were native to the Northeast until the late 1800s, but today the species is considered extinct in Maine.

Unnamed Gray Fox at the Maine Wildlife Park. 56 p o r t l a n d magazine

Maryann the Mountain Lion rom my lair, I can see the two newest arrivals padding around their home. The cougar kittens’ arrival from Montana causes a hubbub. They can’t live in my enclosure. I’ve been here for six years since I was transferred from Wisconsin. I overheard the game wardens discussing moving me to a different park to make room. But they could find no place better, so I’m here to stay. People still coo at the kittens. They glance back and forth between us as if to compare the acorn to the oak.

Russet the Red Fox It’s quiet the morning after a windstorm. Gamekeepers scramble to check on the animals. Even the gray foxes have huddled in their den for once. I stalk a chipmunk foolish enough to venture into my world. I’m smarter, but the little creature is quick and gets away—for now. The peacocks amble by, pecking and preening. I track their movements across the park and startle one of them with a feint. I was brought to this park from New York two years ago, and there are always more cu-

riosities to investigate. Miriam the Beaver There’s always work to be done on the dam. My creations shape the environment around me. What did you do yesterday? I can turn a river into a wetland. Each time a leak springs, the sound of rushing water drives me to distraction. Some days I wake to find my dam washed away—I’m certain I once spotted one of photos by emily mccabe

neon, chartreuse tennis balls? Neck straight, wings tucked, feathers glossed—march! Without the oversight of the Goose Patrol, this park would succumb to chaos. Family weekend fun? Children laughing? Absurd! I catch the eye of a young girl and return her look with my best beady-eyed stare. Her hands are unwashed and sticky. If she tries to pet me, I’ll bite her. The girl’s mother tugs her away in the direction of the mountain lion enclosure. I give a proud honk and ruffle my feathers. A disturbance from the east draws the attention of the Patrol. We whisk away to impose order on more unruly human interlopers.

Unnamed Canada Lynx at the Maine Wildlife Park.

Pie, the park’s piebald deer, has almost no pigmentation in her fur, and her hind legs are smaller than normal. She was brought to the farm as an orphan from a rehabilitator in Princeton, Maine.

the gamekeepers dismantling it, the vandal! But I enjoy the challenge of hard work. Perhaps a muddy pile of sticks and stones isn’t the most artistic design, but there’s beauty in function, reward in creation. Pie the Piebald Deer Another camera flashes. I used to hide behind the other deer at moments like these, but after five years here I’ve become accustomed to the attention. My spotted coat makes me a crowd-pleaser. One photographer has a steely look in his eye, determined to wait for a better shot. I look directly at the camera. He bursts into action, snapping a stream of pictures. I strike a pose—anything for the ’gram. Harley the Porcupine My watering can must have a backstory. “Hello, hello!” I prop myself on my hind legs and pat his smooth side. “I’ve missed you!” I close my eyes with pleasure as I enjoy a lick of fresh cold water. I’ve known the old watering can for a long time now. Ever since I was abandoned as a newborn and brought to the park eight years ago, I’ve appreciated his clockwork visits. I wonder if he’s thrilled by my quills. n

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The new Wheeler 38 is under construction at the Brooklin Boat Yard in Brooklin, Maine. She is a dimensionally accurate copy of Hemingwayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beloved Pilar, built by Wheeler Shipyard in 1933. She has been reverse engineered from historic documents retained by the family and will be ready for launch in September 2020.

You may contact us at: wes@weswheeleryachts.com Follow our construction progress on Instagram @WheelerYachtCompany or check out our website at: WheelerYachts.com

ing Cuba in 2013. Right: Andy Garcia is in the works to direct the feature film Hemingway and Fuentes. staff collage; Hilary Hemingway and Wes Wheeler while visiting

Style

Launch Party A sister to Hemingway’s Pilar rises in Maine. By Colin W. Sargent

ho’d build a 21st century

replica of the Pilar?

Novelist Ernest Hemingway’s 38-foot sport fishing boat hunted German submarines off Cuba during World War II. Built by Wheeler Shipbuilding of Brooklyn, New York, the original Pilar cost $7,495. She stars in Hemingway’s novels To Have and Have Not and Islands in the Stream. When she launches in Maine this September, Pilar’s much younger sister will maneuver around a different enemy: coronavirus. “We’re working reduced hours because of social disSummerguide 2020 59

Style

Fever Pitch e reach Wesley Potter Wheeler, 63, by telephone in North Carolina. For the last five months, Wheeler has been president of UPS Healthcare and Life Sciences, which ships United Parcel Service pharmaceuticals to all points of the compass. Lately, much of the traffic has been directed by FEMA. “I had my position for just three months” when the world turned upside down. Coronavirus made everything a flat-out emergency. So

he’s only too happy to spend a few minutes in Cuba nostalgically. “In 2013, I got to know Hilary Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s niece. She told me there was some concern from the Cuban government that the Pilar at Finca Vigia was not authentic.” What? Good stories are a function of embarrassment. “So she said, ‘Why don’t we go to Cuba together to examine the boat?’ It was a fantastic five days. We had a special visa to go. We went to all the Hemingway haunts. The special part was, we had three or four hours to crawl all over the boat. No one gets to do that but…us. Pilar had been heavily renovated because of the hurricanes, but she was authentic. The original Chrysler engines were still there. We measured her to the bones and reverse-engineered them here.” Hilary Hemingway is a screenwriter on a quest to film and release Hemingway and Fuentes, a full-length feature film she’s written with actor/director Andy Garcia. Early on, the rumored cast was Sir Anthony Hopkins as Ernest Hemingway; Garcia as Pilar’s unheralded first mate, Gregorio Fuentes; and Annette Bening as the novelist’s fourth wife, Mary Welsh Hemingway.

Eric Stockinger on the New Boat

“Ours will do 28 to 30 knots. Hemingway’s did 13 knots.” The new boat’s “interior is not original. No 1930s galley and head and bunk beds,” a bit gamey as enjoyed by Papa, “would be what anyone would want today.” Instead, “the new one will have a 1930s look and feel but be a completely modern boat that anyone would want to buy in the 21st century. I can’t reveal the price, but it’s over a $1M boat. “One of Hemingway’s big changes was to cut the transom down, tapering toward the water so it would be easier to fish. We’ve replicated that.” Another nod to modern times: the new model won’t include a Thompson submachine gun. As for the new boat’s name, “That will be revealed at launch time. We’re aiming for early September, maybe Labor Day Weekend.” With luck, this won’t be a dream deferred. 60 p o r t l a n d magazine

Was the movie in Hilary’s head as early as 2013? Was that her real reason for getting closer to the boat? “She was putting finishing touches on the screenplay then,” Wheeler says, “and the film is still under development. Andy Garcia and I just traded emails a few days ago. The original phone call I received from Andy was in desperation because he needed a boat to shoot for the movie. I helped him find a close match—another Wheeler Playmate made the same year. Eleanor is a Wheeler 36, a little shorter than Pilar. She’s a lake boat, from upstate New York. She was in pretty rough shape. We spent six or seven months converting her into Pilar. She looks good, but her stern doesn’t slope toward the water like Hemingway’s Pilar did.” He doesn’t say it, but it faintly shimmers in the air: The way my new Wheeler 38 will. Meanwhile, as plans for the movie crested and subsided, Andy Garcia kept dreaming of the perfect match. “As time went on, Anthony Hopkins, 83, got too old to play Hemingway,” Wheeler says. “The latest actor under consideration is John Voight [82]. But when they got close to filming, John got involved in the Ray Donovan series. Andy was still going through different producers. He wants to do the film. Hilary still wants to do the film.” If and when the movie is shot, will your new Wheeler 38 be able to slip into some of the scenes? “I think so, now that we have her built— almost built. Andy texted me a few weeks ago and said, ‘Make sure it’s period.’ He wants the interior to look close enough to match the 1930s period. It’ll be similar.” The Spooky Trifecta s the launch date draws closer at Brooklin Boatyard, Wheeler seems to sense he’s part of an ironic triangle tantalizing to lovers of coincidence. The first doubletake is the homophones Brooklyn/Brooklin for the two boatyards. The second is that “When I hired Steve White [the owner of Brooklin Boatyard] to build our new Wheeler 38, I didn’t know he was the novelist E. B. White’s grandson,” Wheeler says. “It’s funny. Hemingway and White were both born in the same year, 1899,” Stockinger says. Was Hemingway an itch E. B. White

courtesy Wheeler yacht company

tancing,” says project manager Eric Stockinger of Brooklin Boatyard. “Our current customer, Wes Wheeler, is the grandson of the man who designed and built the original Pilar for Hemingway in 1933. He’s the great-grandson of the man who started Wheeler Shipbuilding.” The challenge? “There are no surviving plans for the Pilar because of an early 1960s fire at the old Wheeler shipyard in Brooklyn, so Wes went to Hemingway’s house in Havana to take measurements for this boat.” Once he arrived, “I think the Cuban government wanted Wes, as a representative of the Wheeler Co., to authenticate their Pilar too.”

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Sty l e needed to scratch? At the New Yorker, the wags in the composing room are still crowing about White’s hilarious—or jealous?— parody “Across the Street and Into the Grill,” a Manhattan send-up of Hemingway’s Across the River and Into the Trees:

Mr. Pirnie and the girl from the reception desk crawled down under the table and pulled the Indian blanket over them so it was solid and good and covered them right. The girl put her hand on his wallet. It was cracked and old and held his commutation book. “We are having fun, aren’t we?” she asked. “Yes, Sister,” he said. The third bit of kismet is that “Pilar’s original designer, Wesley L. Wheeler, was born in 1899 too,” Stockinger says. Now that’s very satisfactory. Is It Polite to Talk about Boats at the Dinner Table? esley L. Wheeler was my grandfather,” Wes Wheeler says, “but I never really got to talk with him about Pilar. By the time I was old enough to talk with him, the fire [that destroyed Pilar’s plans] had hit the shipyard. In 1963 I would have been seven years old.” Besides, “there were so many designs underway at Wheeler Shipyard in the 1930s. One of them was a boat built for John Jacob Astor.” Young Hemingway may have had a fan base, “but to the general public, he was no John Jacob Astor. He hadn’t won the Nobel Prize for The Old Man and the Sea (1954) yet.” At the time Pilar was delivered to Hemingway, a dazzling ad campaign “was out with Astor thanking the shipyard for his yacht. When I asked my aunt about Pilar, her memory was, ‘It’s just another boat. We never talked about it at the dinner table.’” But the young Wes Wheeler was hooked. “My favorite Hemingway book is

“W

Islands in the Stream. It’s autobiographical, and he’s going back and forth to Bimini, in waters I love.” The senior pharmaceuticals exec’s excitement for the Wheeler 38 project has everything to do with his desire to reach back in time and connect with earlier generations of his family. See marketscreener.com for an inch-long list of well known pharmaceutical firms he’s guided. But it’s his new assignment leading UPS Health that’s keeping him up nights. Knowing what you know now, as you try to create something beautiful in Maine while the world is on fire, would you have chosen another time to bring out this boat? “I think a lot of us would have liked to have known what this time would be like ahead of time. I’d have made a few different investments! But we don’t get to do that. Meanwhile, our whole family is looking forward to this launch in Maine. We have a beautiful house rented for family members to be in Maine when she’s launched.” It’ll be a thrill for the family to see her in the water. Until then and beyond, “I’m moving FEMA’s product all over the place 15 hours a day…But even so, we’ll come out of this okay.” See You in the Movies We reach Hilary Hemingway working at home in Florida. Wes Wheeler has told us you already had a clear idea of Hemingway and Fuentes back when you inspected Pilar with him at Finca Vigia in Havana.

It was a completed screenplay in 2006. I understand that’s a short time ago.

Right. The first time around, good things started happening with Anthony Hopkins, Andy Garcia, and Annette Bening. Then recession happened. Where is the movie right now?

s of yesterday? Andy called me yesterday and said, “What do you think of Jeff Daniels?” The movie is set in 1948–1961. When Hemingway won the Nobel Prize in 1954, he’d had a concussion and a great deal of pain. He thought he received the prize because they felt sorry for him. On top of that, no other writer he admired had come out with a novel at that time. He was so competitive. He wanted to beat one of those other writers!

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STy l e Now that there’s a closer match to Pilar than Eleanor being launched this September in Maine, does the new Wheeler 38 have a shot at appearing in the film?

courtesy hilary hemingway

I think Andy is very interested in seeing it. He’s hoping the inside of the boat matches the 1930s. Andy wants something that is more true to what Ernest Hemingway’s boat looked like back then. Wes is going to be selling the new Wheeler 38 to modern buyers, so some of the high-tech gadgetry will be deftly hidden. On the other hand, it’s more than likely any interior scenes will be shot on a set. It’s the long shots where the new boat could shine. There are reasons why Andy would want to shoot the film with a boat that’s more modern. If you’re dealing with a 90-year-old boat, it’s like dealing with a 90-year-old person. I’d love to use Wes’s boat, but I don’t think they’d use it in Cuba with the present administration in power. So Andy has talked a lot about shooting in maybe Puerto Rico. With a new boat, that would save money. You could travel on your own keel to these destination shoots.

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dialogue. We just did action points. It was like, “You take these scenes and write them; I’ll take these. We’ll meet in the middle. In the swamp.” When was the first time you saw Pilar in person?

I went over to Cuba in 2000. Every two years they have a colloquium on Hemingway. They invite people from all over the world to do a one-hour presentation. Hemingway scholars from everywhere come to attend. The older everybody is, the harder it is to get to the original source material. Wes Wheeler mentioned that the Cuban government wanted to make sure Pilar was Hemingway’s original Wheeler Shipyard Playmate fishing boat, built in 1933. Did that take you by surprise?

ere’s what happened. A guy named (coincidentally) Roberto Fuentes wrote a book called Hemingway in Cuba. When Pilar came in 1979 to be refurbished, Roberto Fuentes was told [the exaggeration that the repairs were so extensive that, in effect,] they made a “replica.” Nineteen seventy-nine was just after a hurricane. At the time, Pilar wasn’t How did you meet Andy Garcia? on the tennis court at Finca Vigia, like she He went to the same high school at the is now. She was under some mango trees. same time as my sister. He was in Bimini During the hurricane, when my father ran green mangos were the Bimini newspaflying at 100 miles per. My agent was at a per hour and more. party where he heard They basically made Andy was thinkholes in Pilar’s hull. ing about shooting a Ribs and stringers on movie about Hemingthe inside and plankway and his boat caping on the outside tain on the Pilar. The had to be replaced. agent told me. I startThere wasn’t a full-on ed thinking about it. switcheroo, but it was I’m the reluctant a major rebuild. Also, Hemingway scholErnest Hemingway aboard Pilar. any time you’ve got ar. It wasn’t my plan, termites you’re going to be replacing wood. but I inherited so many notes from my faThink of the U.S.S. Constitution. Wes and ther, Leicester Hemingway, Ernest’s youngI looked in the engine compartment. The er brother. I ended up doing a PBS docuLancoming auxiliary engine that was on mentary on Hemingway. But I was still surthe starboard side used to be to the right of prised when I got a phone call out of the the main engine. It should have had a shaft blue from Andy. He has a house on Key Bison the right-hand side. Ernest was very cay. He said, “Would you like to come out proud of where the Lancoming auxiliary and talk with me?” I agreed and said, “I engine was, but it wasn’t there. could give you some research notes if you So after Hemingway in Cuba, another like.” I explained that actually six Cuban book came out, Hemingway’s Boat, by Paul fishermen figured in the composite characHendrickson. Hendrickson repeats that one ter in The Old Man and the Sea. [word] from the other book—that it was a We ended up writing the screenplay to“replica”—and blows up [the exaggeration gether. I did an outline, without excessive

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STy l e

that repairs were so extensive you might as well call the authentic Pilar a replica] in detail. That implies that it’s a separate boat, but it’s not. During restoration they had to use Cuban wood [not what Wheeler Shipbuilding originally used in Brooklyn] because of the Embargo.

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What was your character Ernest Hemingway’s most candid moment with Fuentes in the screenplay?

Hemingway (left) and Waldo Peirce (right)

met with Fuentes four times out of six trips. I presented him with a boat captain’s Hall of Fame trophy at an event in Havana, where I explained how he had kept Pilar safe from two hurricanes, including a Category 5 hurricane. He took Pilar into the middle of Havana Harbor and kept the motor running so she wouldn’t be smashed against the docks. My father told me about his older brother: “The trick to being civil with Ernest throughout your life—because you know he’s going to blow up sooner or later—is to maintain your dignity.” I was thinking of that when I wrote this scene. After Across the River and Into the Trees was panned by critics because it centered on the relationship between a man in his 60s and [an 18-year-old Italian countess], Ernest Hemingway was worried he’d damaged Adriana Ivancich’s reputation—whom he’d modeled his character on—so he invited her back from Venice to Havana. In the six weeks she was there, he wrote The Old Man and the Sea. From front to back. [Weeks earlier], he’d been talking with Gregorio Fuentes about what his next writing project might be, and Fuentes asked, “Why don’t you write another fishing story?” The short story Ernest chose to develop into a novella was from a story he’d published in Esquire in 1936. In the dialogue, a key line is, “How big do you think these fish can get?” The old fisherman is in his boat and catches the fish. But then the wind

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shifts, keeping the man from getting back to port. The old man basically goes crazy from drinking salt water and seeing sharks ripping at his catch. By the time he reaches shore, all he has to show is the 18-foot skeleton of this marlin. The night Ernest finishes The Old Man and the Sea, he and Adriana are celebrating aboard Pilar, having cocktails, and Fuentes shows up. He stares at them and says, “You have to put away your drinks and go home.” Ernest fires him. Then he says he’s sorry and tries to rehire him the next morning. But Fuentes says, “No.” That impresses Ernest, because he respects a man of his word who takes no bullshit. They eventually do fish again on Pilar, but it’s a turning point in the screenplay. Can you confirm that two Maine artists, Waldo Peirce and Henry Strater, are on the guest list of the Pilar’s passengers?

oth were on Pilar. Waldo went fishing with Hemingway in the Marquesas, all the way to the Dry Tor-

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tuguas. Mike Strater gave Ernest his first “outriggers”—bamboo poles on either side of the cross that’s forward toward the bow. It made the boat look like a huge bug— it was funny. I’ll send you a photo. Strater was on Pilar when he caught a 1,200-pound marlin off Bimini. Sharks attacked it. Probably those attacks were in Ernest’s mind when he wrote the shark scenes in The Old Man and the Sea.

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Z e itgeist

Stay Off of My Cloud In the time of social distancing, who do you choose to repel, and who’s an insider? By Sofia Voltin

collage includes detail from an Eric Hopkins painting photographed from a private collection

e’re sheltering in place. On essential trips to the grocery store we wear gloves and masks, and maintain a six-foot distance from fellow shoppers. On the drive home, we spot passing cars with New York license plates. Tensions rise. The coronavirus has put an ugly magnifying glass on distrust of folks from away. Within the first week of April, an online petition to keep tourists and summer residents out of Maine gained over 23,000 signatures. One of the first communities to try to ban visitors and summer residents was North Haven. The island’s year-round population may hover around 380, but its cultural influence stretches far beyond the state borders (see “Star Map of North Haven Island,” Summerguide 2014). Maine’s cultural identity is inexorably linked with welcoming outsiders. The world goes to summer camp here. John F. Kennedy Jr. went to Outward Bound in Rockland. Year-round Mainers brag about famous New Yorkers like the late E. B. White staying up here with us in the summer. We still call him familiarly by his nickname, “Andy.” The Rockefellers, Martha Stewart, John Travolta—the list goes on and on. Like it or not, Boston, New York, and Philadelphia have always considered Maine their summer stomping ground. Vacationland capitalized on a reputation as a place to rest and recover your health with fresh salt air and bracing seawater. According to mainememorynetwork.com, as early as the 1800s we promoted a “tradition of ‘taking the waters’ on St. John the Baptist Day, June 24, as a ritual of purification—to appeal to urbanites troubled by

sanitation problems in their city environments.” Now, we try to close our doors during a health crisis. 48 Hours on North Haven “On Sunday, March 15, the town administrator asked the board to meet for an emergency meeting,” says North Haven Select Board member Alex Curtis. “The previous weekend we had a couple groups of summer residents show up. They obviously came up here to wait out COVID-19. I understand why, but I don’t think they were necessarily considering what that meant to the community.” According to the Select Board’s minutes, the Board “discussed the situation facing the Town, including the Board’s understanding that people were leaving their permanent homes to seek refuge from the pandemic on the island. The Board then began considering issuing an order to prevent a large influx of people from coming to the island, an influx that would overwhelm its medical capabilities. The Order was passed unanimously.”

Two days later, after local friction and calls from representatives from the Governor’s office who were looking into the legality of the ban, “…the Board rescinded the order…and has instead adopted a resolution. The resolution strongly encourages people to refrain from traveling away from the places where they currently live.” “I’ve lived on North Haven Island all my life, but I’m currently in Seattle,” artist Eric Hopkins says. “When I woke up the day after the order was passed, I felt this knee-jerk reaction—I’ve been banned from my home.” Local resident and chair of the school board Kenny Corson spoke out in a letter to the Board. “It was passed with good intent to protect the community, but I don’t think the Board thought of the long-term ramifications,” he says. “The order has done serious harm to the relationship between our summer and year-round communities. “One family came up from New York to get away from COVID-19. They arrived with enough food and supplies to quarantine for 14 days. They have a child who is immunocompromised, but they left here after only about 10 days. They went back to New York because they didn’t feel welcome.” Protecting Our Own he majority of this community is older,” Curtis says. “We have really limited resources and one nurse practitioner. It can be tough even under good circumstances. We rely on the mainland for a lot. Residents were worried about people showing up from hot areas like New York.” “Maine is full of rural communities with limited medical facilities,” Corson says. “Summer community members

“T

Summerguide 2020 79

Zeitgeist contribute heavily to the taxes that help pay for the services we have.” “I’ve had several conversations with very angry people on both sides,” Curtis says. “It’s turned into a social experiment. I hear from people all the time who are super cut and dried. They want no one to come here, and no one to leave. On the other side, we’re hearing, ‘I have a constitutional right to freedom of movement.’ “I went through peaks and valleys of emotions myself based on those decisions. I’m still trying to work out here, too. I do carpentry in the winter and lobster fishing in the summer and fall. I was recently renovating a house for a summer resident. We need contractors to come out to the island to get it finished so the summer residents can come in.” But the COVID-19 town resolution states “contractors who work on the island but do not live on the island should refrain from traveling to the island.” “My buddies working on this project asked me what to do. It’s a guidance. It’s not law. But it’s hard for me to say, go ahead and do it!”

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Us versus Them “Ninety percent of these summer residents understand what we’re doing and why. No one wants to accidentally bring the virus to the island,” Curtis says. “I received emails from summer residents thanking me for the resolution. They’re a part of this community too. Some papers are trying to paint this picture of a rift between summer and full-time residents. That’s totally made up, but it makes for a more interesting story.” Life-long resident and current librarian Kate Quinn was born on North Haven Island in 1948. “When I was young, North Haven was very socially segregated. Yearround residents were the workers. Summer people were the ones who hired them. But it’s changed a lot.” Still, according to one year-round islander who asked to remain unnamed, “There’s an underlying issue people here don’t like to talk about publicly. There really is an us and them mentality of the

year-round versus summer communities. Summer people are looked at with contempt when they’re not here and met with fake smiles once they arrive. I think a fair amount of people on the island supported that measure because it targeted the summer community.”

opkins says, “North Haven is a spiritual homeland for a lot of people. Even for people who might be there every summer for two weeks, two months, or two days. It’s been a grounding place for generations. It feels like home, and to be told you can’t go home is bad. But I don’t think there’s anything wrong with being told to stay put in a crisis. I say this as an anti-authority Maineiac. Like a lot of us, I don’t like to be told what to do. But if it means I have to stay in my house for two weeks, that’s the way life is. This isn’t just fun and games because Mainers don’t like summer people. People are protecting their families and homes. “Exaggeration and drama is a very useful tool for painting and other creative

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Z e i tg e i st stuff, but the whole us versus them has been blown out of proportion. It’s us and us. I’m proud of the work the town, county, and the state have done. People are trying to help each other and keep things flowing as much as possible. So what if I can’t come to the island anytime soon? We have to remember we’re all one island. This big island earth. This one little blue ball planet.” In 2001, Maine was thrilled when the 48-member cast of the Broadway musical Islands, many natives of North Haven, went down to Manhattan and drew raves from big audiences. The show was all about respecting our differences. Think Our Town voice-overs with a driving, foot-stomping musical score. When we needed New York, Broadway welcomed us. The big finale is the song “We Live on an Island.” Two decades later, did we really mean all that? You’ve got to wonder, North Haven: Where were you when the lights went out?

idny Bullens, who wrote the music and lyrics for Islands, told Portland Magazine, “The people in North Haven are like family to me. They have been there for me in the toughest of times. We needed the comfort of the beauty of the island and the warmth of the people.” Bullens now lives in Nashville and has a summer cottage on North Haven, but he will not be visiting this year. He wrote on cidnybullens.com, “We gave up on the summer in Maine—our small island is struggling to maintain zero cases of COVID-19—and has put in place strict measures for seasonal residents. We felt it necessary not to tax them even more.”

Coming Home In a time of crisis, don’t we all want to go home? But home doesn’t always mean where you grew up, or even where you live right now. In the days leading up to the ban from North Haven Island, the numbers of positive COVID-19 cases were rising rapidly in New York City, where my boyfriend is a bartender. Experts agreed the city was heading for a major spike in hospitalizations and deaths, and rumors were flying of a complete lockdown with no travel in or out of the city. When all restaurants and bars closed on March 17, my boyfriend could no longer work. He doesn’t have a car and feared infecting his fam-

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Z e i tg e i st ily in Puerto Rico by flying home through New York City airports. I feared it would be months before we could visit each other again. So on March 18, I drove 300 miles to pick him up outside his Brooklyn apartment, and he drove the same 300 miles straight back to my apartment in Harpswell, where we strictly quarantined ourselves for 15 days. We took our temperatures daily while I worked from home and my family dropped off groceries outside my front door.

ear makes us do crazy things. But we all share a primal need to protect the people we love. When life returns to normal, will we be the place that closed its doors and disregarded whoever happened to be on the other side? For most of my life, every time I returned home—whether from a day trip to Boston or on break from college in New York—I felt relieved the moment I saw the words “Welcome to Maine. The way life should be.” Here’s a time when we can truly walk the walk. n

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Any of these Dream Islands can be your private escape. Which is your desire?

Ram Island,

Wheeler Bay, St. George

photos courtesy of landVest

$1,195,000, 5 Acres

“P

eople are yearning these days for a magical place of isolation,” owner Ronald J. Schiller says. “No matter how long the trip is to get to the island— whether driving up from Boston or flying in from Colorado—it’s always the five-minute crossing by boat that makes all the difference. It’s in this moment when we completely disconnect from the busyness of life. “In the early mornings, you hear the

By Sofi a Voltin

gentle thrum of lobster boats heading out for the day. It doesn’t wake up most people, but I listen for it. I take the dogs out and watch the boats go by. There are beautiful wild roses all along the water. A couple of soft, pine-needle paths cut through the forest. It’s gorgeous as the sun is starting to

come up. “Your senses are heightened. You notice the gentle light, the feeling of the breeze, and the smells. Visitors say they feel more grounded out here. We quickly adapted to using collected rainwater and solar power. There’s plenty of water and power, but living on the island made us sensitive to the degree we overuse all these things in our daily lives.” Music echoes across the four-building compound surrounding the central courtyard. Built in 1990, the house Summerguide 2020 87

Portfolio

“was designed to be invisible from the water, though the ocean is visible from every room. My husband’s a composer and writes classical music.” Alan Fletcher is also president and CEO of Aspen Music Festival and School. “The island has been Alan’s principal composing space.” Schiller is a founding partner of the Aspen Leadership Group and the Philanthropy Career Network. “I just finished writing my fourth book. I’m now working on my fifth and sixth. I wrote all my books out here, at least in part. With peace and quiet, we can really focus on creative work. “Every evening around cocktail hour, we take a walk all the way around the perimeter of the island. The dogs love climbing over the rocks. Everything quiets down, and the lobster boats return to their moorings. We watch them from the dock, then walk back to the courtyard. The way the setting sunlight cuts through the trees is something magical.” Taxes are $6,847.

realtor Kim Newby says. “I took a few people out here, and we saw so many sea ducks: eiders, long-tailed ducks, surf scoters. There are also black guillemots.”

“W

e were amazed at how many inhabited islands there are,” Abel says. “We’d been caretakers on a very grand island estate in Connecticut (Roger’s Island in Branford). We missed living on an island, but not the work. Eugley Island was perfect for us: a small, comfortable house with very little property to maintain. I always thought it was cute, so I researched the owner, called up, and asked to buy it.” Perched atop the petite isle, the 450-square-foot cottage comes with solar power, a composting toilet, and woodstove. Quaking aspen trees and bayberry bushes offer a little shade on hot days. “We have ro-

sa rugosa on the banks, along with daylilies, gooseneck loosestrife, raspberries, and yarrow. Queen Anne’s lace, mullein, forget-me-nots, and daisies pop up throughout the year. “We go to the island almost daily in the summer. My fridge is always stocked full of appetizers, snacks, and prosecco. We’ll pick people up on the way and have a picnic out there. We’re prepared at any moment to hop in the boat and throw an island party. “We love watching friends fly kites and tell us how they haven’t done that for at least 50 years. Family members have brought their significant others for romantic getaways. Our grandchildren have grown up here in the summers. They’d make cairns and find treasures, from sea glass to seabird skeletons. Each grandchild has a collection of tiny, bright yellow, periwinkle shells. They call them ‘popcorn shells.’ “My husband Frank is a retired U.S. Coast Guard officer and is currently an estate manager. He’s also a magnificent woodturner who makes and sells lovely bowls. I’m a semi-retired construction manager and now spend more time on my art—mostly oil painting. I show my work at the Stable Gallery in Damariscotta and through my web page: elaineabel.com. “I’ve invited artist friends to come out to sketch and paint. A writer, Leslie McGrath, used our cottage as a retreat. She

Muscongus Bay, Friendship $385,000, 0.3 Acre

“Eugley is a horrible name for such a pretty island,” owner Elaine Abel says. “My name for it is Gull Cottage, from the movie The Ghost and Mrs. Muir. “When we moved to Waldoboro in 1998, my husband and I immediately started exploring the area—first by kayak and soon after in a small skiff.” Cradled where the Medomak River meets Muscongus Bay, the island lies in the middle of the famed 375-mile-long Maine Island Trail. The bay is home to over 80 celebrated islands, including Monhegan, the Audubon Society’s Hog Island, and Eastern Egg Rock, famous for puffin-spotting. “You see an amazing amount of seabirds out here,” 88 p o r t l a n d magazine

from top: James Li — Wild Tree Designs; courtesy of Elizabeth Arey

Eugley Island,

wrote this poem.”

Goodbye to Gull Cottage Four August days we’ve watched the bay gather her blue satin skirts and with brisk modesty reveal rose quartz and granite bones hidden shoals of broken shells and heaped dreams we’d thought long-gone of this island we have slept upon.

Taxes are $668.

Greer Island,

Penobscot Bay, Vinalhaven $395,000, 5 Acres

“It’s been our family conservation project. We’ve planted balsam and spruce trees, wildflowers, and strawberries all over,” Elizabeth Arey says. The Arey family has owned the island for over a century. “I always thought preserving the island was a great thing to hand down to my children, but they’re so mobile these days. One son landed in Portland, Oregon, and my other son lives in Dallas, Texas. They’re at a point in their lives when they’re just too far away to enjoy it.” Greer Island lies off the southeast coast of Vinalhaven. It’s accessible by a small rowboat, by swimming from Geary’s Beach, or by a quick stroll across the sandbar at low tide. A 12-by-15 rustic fishing shack provides shelter from sudden passing showers. “We used to go out here for lobster cookouts and picnics. Our sons would scour the island searching for buried treasure. It’s such a wonderful way to stimulate the imagination and spend time with your family. You bond in ways you never would otherwise. “My husband would take the two boys out in our rowboat to fish. We used to have contests for who could catch the biggest fish. Then we’d roast a bunch of mackerel up on the rocks. There’s nothing better than fish that fresh—especially a big, fat mackerel. A special place like this makes for unforgettable summers.” Taxes are $2,858.

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We’ll come to you.

Hueston/Ross Island,

Schoodic Lake, Piscataquis County $224,900, 1.5 Acres

“It’s a private little kingdom in the shepherd’s crook on the north end of the lake,” broker Dorothea Perkins says. “Michael Hueston and his brother bought the island camp in 1974.”

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P ortfolio

Hanneman Island,

Big Lake, Greenlaw Chopping Township $250,000, 8 Acres

ne mile from the public landing at Great Lake Stream, a private island awaits new residents. On the southern tip of the island is a two-story log cabin from the 1940s with four bedrooms and a kitchen-living room combo. “My family has had it since 1955,” George Campbell says. “It’s on one of the best bass lakes in the country. We’ve caught some nice white perch and salmon too. My father was a hunting and fishing guide. He used to take Ted Williams fishing out here. Ted loved fly fishing all around the island while he was vacationing at nearby Weatherby’s sporting lodge. “In February, we’d go snowshoeing and

clear off the ice to make a big skating rink. We’d collect cattails, douse them in kerosene, and light them up as torches around the skating rink at night.” Spring brings new island neighbors. “We had a moose cow and calf on the island one time,” George says. “Deer sometimes have their young out here too. My friends and I used to spend a week in June. We’d light a campfire and hang out over a couple of beers. It must be so quiet when we’re gone. The deer are so curious they come right up and watch us around the fire. It’s an amazing place.” Taxes are $1,322.

LIFE BEAUTIFULLY...

Photo: Darren Setlow

LIVE

ing from a far shore. They never made it onto his list, but my brother identified them as thrushes. We’d sit on the porch, watching the sunset, and listen to the thrushes chirp across the lake.” Taxes are $932.

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photos Courtesy of listing agent William Howard, Due East Real Estate.

“It’s all about peace, quiet, and the outdoors,” Hueston says. “My late brother spent hours identifying birds up here. Every year he made a list. One year he counted 25, from the white-crowned sparrow, chickadee, and three-toed woodpecker to the bald eagle. He always wanted to get to 30. “In the summer of 1980 we were so excited to go bass fishing on the beautiful lake that as soon as we got here, we started up camp and went right out in the boat. A half hour later we saw smoke. Gas from a broken line had made its way to the fridge’s pilot light.” “The cabin burned to the ground,” Perkins says. “In 1983 they built the log cabin that stands today.” It’s nestled between pine and birch trees but maintains a clear view of the lake. Paths dotted with wild blueberry bushes lead to a separate boathouse and bunkhouse. “It breaks my heart to sell the property. But my brother passed away two years ago, and I can’t get out there anymore,” Hueston says. “In the evenings you can hear birds call-

TBD Island Trail,

Lower Wilson Pond, Greenville $275,000, 1.3 Acres

Laura Wood and Shannon Planck have filled their family photo albums with moments spent on these two little islands since 2002. “The second island is too small for building, but we wouldn’t want to lose its bonus blueberry bushes,” Planck says. “Our 10-year-old son loves to pick blueberries for his pancakes.” The larger island has a one-room, 600-square-foot cabin. Sunlight pours in from every direction, and a solar panel provides off-grid electricity. Two decks stretch along the cabin to make the most of both sunrise and sunset views. “The little cove is shallow, so the water is warmer, and there are hardly any boats zooming by. You feel like you’re hundreds of miles from everything when the town’s only 10 miles away. “There’s a well-tramped path that winds around the island, passing over downed trees and across a springy moss carpet. Our son learned to swim, kayak, and explore

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P o rt f o l i o out here. It’s where he had his first solid food and rolled over for the first time. For his sixth birthday, we did an island-wide scavenger hunt, hiding presents all over with rhyming clues to get him from one gift to the next. We’ll miss the place, but we’ll always have the memories.” Taxes are $1,804.

Mink Island,

Eastern Bay, Beals

$295,000, 4.2 Acres

Little Lake Island,

Meduxnekeag Lake, Linneus $109,500, 1 Acre

“T

he locals have dubbed it Little Lake Island. There are four islands in Drews Lake (few around here know it as ‘Meduxnekeag’), but this is the only one that’s built upon,” listing agent An92 p o r t l a n d magazine

Courtesy bold coast properties

“It’s a two-mile boat ride from the Beals public landing, or two-and-a-half miles from the one in Jonesport,” realtor William Milliken says. “The island boasts big ocean views to the south and protected deep water to the north—perfect to build a pier. When it comes to owning a private ocean island, access is key. It can be a real pain without protected deep water. That’s what makes Mink Island so ideal.” Peeking out from under the towering pines and ferns is the frame of an unfinished cabin. “The current owner was building a camp out there. He built a septic system and put up the cabin, but he didn’t finish because of health reasons. He now has to sell it.” Soft pink granite shores outline the lush green center of the island. Against the backdrop of the deep blue bay, the pink and green island is a show-stopping sight. “In the summer, there are lobster buoys and traps dotted all over. There’s not much wildlife—probably minks.” Taxes are $3,500.

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Summerguide 2020 93

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Po rt f o l i o drew Mooers says. A barn-red, 600-square-foot log cabin rests on the eastern edge of the island. “There was a time when this island was pretty much abandoned. A former owner built the structure; then it became like the Charlie Brown Christmas tree. People in the community kept adding to it. I guess it could be misconstrued as vandalism, but it was more like a community project. The current owner, who lives in Texas, added power.” This labor of love now has two bedrooms, one bathroom, and a deck. Inside it’s fitted out as a rustic fishing lodge. “It’s not something the Rockefellers or DuPont heirs would own. This is for the average guy. That’s the flavor of Maine, real and genuine. We’re a rugged bunch. “I’ve paddled out here in my kayak first thing on a fall morning when the mists rise off the water. It’s mystical. We’re lucky to be here. We truly live in Vacationland.” Taxes are $1,102.

Cedar Island,

Stevens Pond, Liberty $32,000, 1 Acre

here’s nothing quite like paddling through lily pads in bloom on a tranquil pond. You hear the “plunk” of a frog hopping into the water as you drift by. Your private island lies just up ahead. “Cedar Island is an oasis on Stevens Pond,” says real estate agent Molli McBrien-Boyer. “Belfast is only 20 minutes away. You can park at the boat launch and venture out to the island to go boating, kayaking, camping, or paddleboarding. The island is much flatter compared to nearby islands. It’s a perfect place to relax under the stars and enjoy s’mores by the fire.” Taxes are $1,194.

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Pine Island,

Long Lake, Naples

$449,000, 1.2 Acres

An hour west of Portland and a 10-minute boat ride across a still blue lake will bring you to Pine Island. The deep-water dock stretches out from a cluster of blueberry bushes on the rocky shore. A stone path winds through the towering pines, leading to a round, one-room lodge in the center of the island. Inside the lodge, stairs trace the curve of the walls up to a loft. Glass doors and windows line every wall. The bright blue of the

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lake glitters between the trunks of the tall pines in all directions. “Some people have been very interested in the island as a glamping site. It would be a great spot to set up tents and rent out the whole island,” listing agent James Bump says. With 900 feet of waterfront (sandy beach included) and world-class fishing, dreamy summer vacations await. Taxes are $5,386.

Squirrel & Peanut Island,

Moosehead Lake, Piscataquis County $595,000, 1.8 Acres

verything’s better in pairs, isn’t it? Squirrel is an apostrophe-shaped island just north of Greenville with a private sandy beach and 1940s camp. The cabin is designed as a celebration of the Maine woods and water. Exposed rafters and tree-trunk beams bring the forest indoors. From the ceiling in the central dining area hangs a chandelier made from a ship’s wheel. Next door on Peanut Island is a grandfathered camp–ready for a new owner to add personal touches.

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P o rt f o l i o Taxes are $2,274.

Sheephead Island,

East Penobscot Bay, Deer Isle $7,975,000, 65+ Acres

Between Sylvester’s Cove and Southwest Harbor, this island with two residences has miles of waterfront with beaches and tidal pools. Stroll along the trails that run through fields of lupines, or search for the swimming pond hidden in the woods. The deep-water dock, float, and mooring on the north side of the island are suitable for yachts. A five-bedroom Colonial house with spacious rooms overlooks the passing sailboats in the bay. The second, four-bedroom house can boast of its own stunning ocean views and private beach. he current owners, Frank and Rosalyn Venerosa, operate the island as a glamorous tented resort, with furnished safari-style tents spaced throughout the fields and looking out over sea views. Would you keep this paradise all to yourself? It’s ok to say “yes.” Taxes are $71,772.

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Fellows Island, Roque Bluffs, Maine Escape to paradise on your own private island! Enjoy 33 pristine wooded acres in picturesque Roque Bluffs, Maine. After your day of boating, fishing or hiking, relax under crystal clear skies and gaze at the stars. Located in the heart of Englishman's Bay, just minutes from the quaint towns Machias and Jonesport, Fellows island is the perfect Summer retreat. Indulge in local, fresh Maine lobster – or have a clambake on your very own sand beach! Features include easy access/multiple landings, mature trees, spectacular views, a beach on the north end of the island, a large wooden shed, and a developed fresh water well (a rarity on islands in the area). The 2-bedroom cabin that sleeps 6 comes

with working propane fixtures, refrigeration and a stove top as well as a beautiful wood burning stove for heat and additional cooking/baking options. Down the woodland path to the south is an enormous wood shed, perfect for storing recreational gear, firewood, & extra food. And if that weren't enough, the island is being sold with a 1-acre parcel located across a narrow channel on the tip of Nepp Point which has its own cabin, outhouse and storage shed. Wildlife abounds on both parcels with plenty of areas to explore native American artifacts and hunt treasures such as arrowheads, crystals & rocks. Make your dreams come true with this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. MLS# 1452598

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Po rt f o l i o

Fellows Island

Englishman’s Bay, Roque Bluffs $549,000, 33 Acres

“I

t’s right off Chambers Point, at the head of Englishman’s Bay,” says William Milliken of Bold Coast Properties. “The well-wooded island, with mature spruce, has a lovely view to the south. There’s protected water on the north end and a two-bedroom cabin on the east side. It’s now owned by an estate. The father, who’s passed away, spent many summers there.” Taxes are $1,567.

Dog’s Head Island, Harpswell Sound

$399,000, 2.87 Acres

Just off the point of Bowdoin College’s Schiller Coastal Studies Center, Dog’s Head Island is a familiar landmark to Orr’s Island residents. It’s easily spotted to the west every time you cross the bridge between Orr’s and Sebascodegan Island. The rustic cottage with its curious little steeple pokes

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out from among the trees. Inside the cottage, the open living area keeps the surrounding views of Harpswell Sound center stage, with gas appliances and a small wood stove to keep it warm on cool nights. At low tide an exposed shore between Dog’s Head Island and Orr’s beckons with the Coastal Studies Center’s trails. Fish for mackerel, stripers, or bluefish off the deep-water dock on the north side of the island. Bring a sea kayak to explore the surrounding coves and more little islands. Be prepared—you’re likely to spot seals who enjoy playing peek-a-boo with paddlers. Taxes are $2,006.

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No boat? No problem. Reach this island gem by hopping aboard a raft with a rope and pulley system. It may seem old-fashioned, but you won’t have to rough it once you set foot on the island. You have your choice of a rustic one-bedroom log cab-

in built in 1950 or a modern two-bedroom structure featuring a full bath, both with power. Or if a night under the stars is calling you, take advantage of one of the several campsites and fire pits on the island. Canoeing, camping, turtles spotting, and fishing (bass, chain pickerel, and white perch) make every day a log-book entry. Taxes are $2,004.

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‘Davis Island,’

Stevens Pond Island, Liberty $35,000, 1.09 Acres

his private little island is known colloquially as one of the “Davis Islands” and can be reached by a small boat from the public landing off Stevens Pond Road. Stevens Pond is a popular destination for kayaking or canoeing. Paddlers explore countless nooks and crannies that weave between the islands. Discover beaver dens and keep a close watch for turtles and loons. After a paddling adventure, the owners stop to rest under the tall white pines. Take a deep breath. You’ve escaped. Taxes are $592. n

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At sunrise, you have a dilemma: If you look toward the sun with your cup of coffee in hand, you’re missing the world’s best view of Portland Head Light! By Colin W. Sargen t

arely is “panoramic” an understatement, but the word insufficiently describes the view at 114 Delano Park, Cape Elizabeth. Offered at $3.5M, this 10-room, 3,644-square-foot gambrel-roofed cottage built in 1973 has four fireplaces, three full baths, mammoth sliding glass doors and windows, sweeping decks, and views of the sunrise from every room. Three bedrooms grace the second floor. Imagine pulling into your garage before stepping into the universe—a commuter home in heaven. Due to this Shingle Style replica’s singular views of Portland Head Light, it has no comparables nearby, or Summerguide 2020 107

Talking Wa l l s

anywhere. It is incomparable. “The same family who built has lived here since 1973,” says listing agent Thomas Tinsman. “The gentleman who created it was real estate attorney Paul Cretaeu,” who literally (and we mean this in the correct sense) wrote the book on Maine real estate law: Maine Real Estate Law. He died in 2009. His wife, Jeanette L. Creteau, died in 2012 at age 84. “Their daughter is the seller, who inherited it eight years ago.”

he lot is just “Incredible. I’ve worked in real estate for 42 years in Cape Elizabeth, and it has the best views of any property I’ve ever been in. Once you get past this house, all the homes get farther and farther from the 108 p o r t l a n d magazine

aine state historian Earle Shettleworth Jr. confirms: “There was a John Calvin Stevens-designed cottage on this site, built in 1886 for the Rev. Frederick M. Houghton, a Portland-area minister. It was part of the Delano Park summer colony. The cottage was acquired in the late 1890s by John B. Coyle of Portland, who commissioned Stevens to enlarge it. The Houghton-Coyle cottage was torn down sometime in the 20th century…” Stevens’s sketch of the lost structure survives, courtesy of Avery Architectural Library, Columbia University.

ship channel. In Shipwreck Cove, for example, you’ll see pretty ships coming into port, but you can’t read the names of

the ships with the naked eye. At 114 Delano Park, you can read their names. Count the crewmembers on deck. On top of that, five lighthouses are visible from here: Two Lights (you see the dome of the nonworking light, where Gary Merrill used to live), Halfway Rock off Harpswell, Portland Head Light, and Ram Island Ledge Light at the mouth of the ship channel.” Fireplaces are the icing on the cake. “There’s one in the master bedroom, one in the living room, and one in the kitchen. The big fireplace in the family room in the basement covers an entire wall.” Ghost of an earlier cottage If this building site is so fantastic—and it is—why would noted architect John Cal-

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vin Stevens, who developed Delano Park, have left this lot a blank slate? There has to have been a structure here before, enjoying the eternal view. It’s as though a cloud of fog has slid across the water, dividing past and present. “The history books show that a house disappeared here back in the 1930s,” Tinsman says. “They’re not sure if it burned down or a storm took it. So it’s really been a mystery. It was vacant from the 1930s until 1973. One reason is, there was a battery there at nearby Fort Williams, where there was shelling practice by Army gun crews to protect the harbor. I think the battery was called Portland Head. Fort Williams was a military fort until 1962, when they sold it to Cape Elizabeth.” n Taxes are $24,051. HOA is $83 per month. Summerguide 2020 109

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LOBSTER SOUS VIDE

“You have to cook lobster at least a little bit first to take it out of the shell, and then you can sous vide it,” Wiley says. “It’s almost impossible to overcook lobster this way, but, as with any shellfish, freshness and other variants affect the results. You could cook a hundred lobster tails at the same temperature for the same time but still get pretty different results.”

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Sous vide, s’il vous plaît!

Portland chefs share the secret of flavorful, tender dishes—every time.

y mouth is already watering over the menu when our waiter stops by to take our order. Tonight’s special is “sous vide red snapper.” I’m hankering for a bite, but what exactly

By Sofia Voltin

am I signing up for? “Sous vide is French for ‘under vacuum,’” Hugo’s chef Michael Wiley says. “You’re basically poaching food in its own juices. You put the food—whether it’s a slice

of watermelon or red snapper—into a foodsafe, vacuum-sealed plastic bag and immerse it in a pot of water at a precise temperature.” The cooking temperature and time vary depending on the type and cut of Summerguide 2020 111

H u n g ry E ye meat or other ingredients. Typically the water temperature is about the same as the desired internal temperature of the meat. “To cook a chicken thigh sous vide, I would set it at 155 for an hour. In order to cook a carrot properly, it’s 190 for an hour. Your oven can be all over the map. But in a water bath, you can be certain you’re cooking at the temperature you want. The highest temperature the water can get is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. It can’t reach microwave or oven levels. It’s a delicate technique. And because you’re cooking foods less, they retain more nutrients.” “It’s kind of an idiot-proof way to cook things,” Central Provisions chef and coowner Chris Gould says. “Poached fish is really nice sous vide. Sausages work well too. You don’t get as much shrinkage of the meat, and the casings don’t burst.” According to “Better Dining through Chemistry” by Scott Haas (Gastronomica, University of California Press, 2006), French chef Georges Pralus invented the cooking technique in 1974 as a way to minimize shrinkage when cooking foie gras. “Shortly after, a sous vide dining program was created for the French railroad,” Wiley says. “Now, in addition to meals in Michelin-starred restaurants, most airline food and a lot of fast food is cooked using sous vide.”

ur Lie chef Jef Wright teaches an introductory class at LeRoux Kitchen. “A lot of people think it’s dangerous and really expensive to get into,” he says. “I probably sous vide more stuff at home than at Sur Lie. A circulator (under $100) and some Ziploc freezer bags are all you need to do this at home.” Immersion circulators are gadgets that heat and circulate the water within the pot to maintain an even temperature. Cooking at home without the vacuum-sealers used by restaurants to lengthen the shelf life of food lessens the risks involved in preparing food in an anaerobic environment. “It’s dangerous to a point. Any time you put food in an oxygen-free environment you’re tempting certain toxins to grow, but the dangers are the same that come from canning food irresponsibly. You have to follow basic guidelines of sanitation, proper storage, and temperature,” Wiley says. In order to legally serve sous vide-prepared food, restaurants must keep highly detailed

112 p o r t l a n d magazine

logs and have a full Hazard Analysis Critical Control Plan (HACCP) in accordance with Maine Department of Health and Human Services requirements. Wright says, “There’s so much you can do with sous vide that there’s no other way to accomplish. You can take tough cuts like brisket, short ribs, pork belly, or pork shoulder—meats you would traditionally braise—and play with different textures by varying cooking times and temperatures. You could sous vide pork belly at one temperature for 24 hours and have it come out so you’re able to slice it like a very tender steak. Or you can do it at a higher temperature for eight hours and it will turn out falling apart like a traditional braise.” Gould, however, says, “I don’t like to use sous vide for braised dishes. The texture’s a little more firm, and you don’t get the liquid you’d have from a traditional braise, where you’d use a gallon or two and make a sauce from that after. It’s just not the same.” “Most of the meat at Hugo’s has been cooked sous vide for at least a moment or two,” Wiley says. “Once you’re ready to show off the perfectly cooked mediumrare ribeye, your only job is to brown it and serve. But you lose a little of the romance. Is it quite as satisfying as nailing that temperature in the five-second window when you cook it in a cast-iron pan?” “The most frequent thing we use the sous vide technique for at Central is to cook perfect 140-degree eggs,” Gould says. “It soft-poaches the egg inside the shell. Then you just crack it and you have a perfectly poached egg. It works very well for busy brunch services. We make a skillet cornbread dish where we cook the cornbread three-quarters of the way through, then crack the sous vide egg in the center. We top it with North Country smokehouse bacon and Pineland Farms cheddar.” “I like to sous vide everything,” Wright says. “At Sur Lie, we sous vide meat, vegetables, and desserts. Custards are great! Traditionally they’d be baked in a water bath in an oven or whisked in the top of a double boiler. Either way, it’s super easy to overcook the eggs. With sous vide, you cook them to the exact temperature where the custard will set. We do our flan and cheesecake like this.” Bring on the snapper! While we’re at it, set aside a slice of that cheesecake too. n

www.lobstershacktwolights.com Summerguide 2020 113

M a i ne Life

Beach Vibes A Gooch’s Beach

a beach, but here he is, with 100 acres in which to escape from perky co-workers.

totally unscientific exploration of the world’s greatest beaches, which are, of course, right here in Maine.

from top: expedia; file photos; david king

Bay View Beach, Saco Like Kristen Stewart, Bay View acts elusive and antisocial, yet somehow everybody knows her.

Who does your favorite beach remind Colony Beach, Kennebunkport Think of barefoot Pierce Brosnan with his By Sofia Vo ltin & De sirée Saucier suit jacket open, his tie loosened but not reCapester Brian Grimm says. Under Gisele moved, martini in hand. Bündchen’s watchful eye, “Your umbrella had better match your chairs, and all of Crescent Beach, your swimsuits mustn’t clash.” Cape Elizabeth “Picture Tom Brady’s perfect family,” local East End Beach, Portland “The sand can hardly be called that, as it’s Old Orchard Beach mostly rocks and dirt. It’s essentially a glorified dog park,” one disgruntled Portlander says. Not everyone appreciated Charlie Brown’s Christmas tree either. Ferry Beach, Saco You might not picture Ron Swanson as

you of?

Fortunes Rocks Beach, Biddeford “This beach is Lana del Rey,” Biddeford local April Woodman says. “It’s a beautiful beach with soft white sand and crystal clear waters. It has a very relaxed yet exclusive vibe.”

Gooch’s Beach, Kennebunk Strut your mutt after a sunrise surf. With Bruno (cocker spaniel) and Rumpole (British bulldog) in tow, Gordon Ramsay personifies this favorite spot. He’s even been spotted surfing here. Goose Rocks Beach, Kennebunkport With its soft sand and protected shore, this beach is as wholesome as Mister Rogers. It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood. Head Beach, Phippsburg Visitors should only be allowed on this Bob Weir beach if they can recite the second Summerguide 2020 115

Maine Life verse of “Sugar Magnolia.” Higgins Beach, Scarborough Like a competitor on Survivor, you’ve got to be willing to risk it all to win a day at this beach. Good luck with the parking, or bring good walking shoes. Kennebunk Beach (Middle) The Kylie Jenner of beaches. There’s always an audience for posing in the frigid waters, suntanning, or showing off your purebred dog while running on the beach. Long Sands Beach, York “Where people take their families every year for their annual Maine beach trip,” says seasonal vacationer Mary Rose Bevins. Beach cottages and vacation homes line the neighborhood, abandoned in the offseason. First to spot the local wins! Mother’s Beach, Kennebunk Kristen Bell has an endless well of parenting tips for the designer diaper-bag set. You might end up hearing a bit too much about her personal life too. Ogunquit Beach What a blast to think you’re sunning on a beach that Maurice Prendergast painted. Parasols optional. Old Orchard Beach When you can strut your stuff in a Speedo or string bikini, you know you’re at “the Jersey Shore of Maine, where drunks meet the ocean,” says Saco local Michaela Dann.

Parson’s Beach, Kennebunk iverhurst Farm is just minutes from this Sharon Stone beach, where the horsey set can run wild from Labor Day to Memorial Day. Popham Beach, Phippsburg At low tide, there’s a shallow warm pool for swimming. Short hours later, you’ll be hit with crashing waves, frigid waters, and a strong undertow. Its sudden and startling transformations rival even Christian Bale’s. Reid State Park, Georgetown Like Miley Cyrus, we grew up from the fun, kid-friendly lagoon to the main beach with the crashing surf. Just when you think you’re comfortable, a seagull flies at your 116 p o r t l a n d magazine

Tassel Top Beach on Sebago Lake

head like a wrecking ball to steal your food. Sand Beach, Bar Harbor You’re from everywhere but here. Imagine Rick Steves’s beaming face, marveling and heaping praise on Mount Desert Island. Seawall Beach, Phippsburg The Indiana Jones of beaches. You’ll have to make it through a fun and adventurous hike before you receive your reward.

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Scarborough Beach Forgot food? No problem, a food truck just rolled up. Forgot your surfboard? It’s all right, all right, all right, they’ve got a rental shack. Like Matthew McConaughey, live in the moment and go with the flow. Stover’s Cove, Harpswell This Maine fisherman might be a little stoic, but his water-loving Labrador’s ready to play. Occasionally tourists ask the fisherman if he’s lived in Harpswell all his life. He always says, “Well, not yet.” Tassel Top, Raymond Just like at summer camp, kids form a bond here unlike any other. Picture the Sandlot gang. Wells Beach One Wells Beach lifeguard says, “It’s home to some of the most frequent saves by lifeguards. Definitely gives off Zac Efron in Baywatch vibes.”

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Willard Beach, South Portland You might have forgotten about the quirky Central Perk waiter Gunther from Friends, but here he is as a beach. It’s a little rough around the edges, but has the best of intentions for all who visit its sandy shores. York Harbor Beach Like Mark Zuckerberg, this beach flaunts its worth with its wickedly wealthy visitors. A beautiful spot to watch the sunset through your designer sunglasses while shamelessly enjoying a $25 lobster roll. n

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F i ghters

McCarthy v. The Lady from Maine courtesy of the Margaret Chase Smith Library

In his new book Demagogue, former Boston Globe scribe Larry Tye digs up the vile threats Senator Joe McCarthy made to Maine Senator Margaret Chase Smith.

hat about today’s political climate inspired you to write Demagogue: The Life and Long Shadow of Senator Joe McCarthy? The idea for Demagogue came partly from my earlier biography of Bobby Kennedy, when his widow Ethel and others told me things about Joe McCarthy that I’d never imagined. And it came from Don Ritchie, the historian emeritus of the U.S. Senate. He organized and annotated the transcripts of McCarthy’s closed-door hearings and convinced me there was not just an opportunity, but a need for a new biography of the senator. President Trump’s election was the clincher.

Interview by Co lin w. Sargent

Demagogue has some big reveals as a result of your gaining access to primary-source material that’s just been unveiled. Breaking news. As a former Boston Globe reporter, how did you make that happen?

Persistence was the key, along with patience—two things daily journalists don’t have time for. I kept going back to people who held the keys to the locked files, be they government officials, friends or colleagues of the senator, or his family members. The challenge was navigating the line between being steadfast and being a pest. In the case of McCarthy’s personal and professional papers, the day after I told my wife I’d never see them, I got a letter from

the collection’s archivist saying I’d been granted access that was not just the first ever, but just for me. You’ve unearthed some private threats McCarthy made to Smith. Take us closer to some of the dialogue.

n the way to deliver her famous floor speech, Smith was heading for the members-only train that would take her from her office to the Capitol, when she ran into Joe. “Margaret,” he said jauntily, “you look very serious. Are you going to make a speech?” Her: “Yes, and you will not like it.” Him, smiling: “Is it about me?”

Summerguide 2020 119

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Her: “Yes, but I’m not going to mention your name.” Him, frowning: “Remember, Margaret, I control Wisconsin’s twenty-seven convention votes!” This was a reference to McCarthy’s having touted Smith as a future vice-presidential nominee, and a hint of his attacks to come. After Smith’s address, McCarthy called her and her co-signatories “Snow White and the Six Dwarfs.” Alfred Hitchcock said, “Great villain, great movie.” How did Joe McCarthy get to be Margaret Chase Smith’s arch-enemy in Congress?

A few months after McCarthy launched his jihad against Communists in the State Department—and after it was clear he couldn’t prove his charges—Smith took to the Senate floor to assail him. “Those of us who shout the loudest about Americanism in making character assassinations,” she said, “are all too frequently those who, by our own words and acts, ignore some of the basic principles of Americanism: the right to criticize; the right to hold unpopular beliefs; the right to protest; the right of independent thought.” Then the ordinarily cautious Maine senator read a “Declaration of Conscience” that called for civility and bipartisanship. It was co-signed by six other moderate Republicans. It was a profile in courage for Smith to launch her famous “Declaration of Conscience” speech in the Senate. What was it like for her, and how did she react to the aftermath?

Her stomach was fluttering at the time, she said. Afterward, she was unsettled by whispers that she’d been romantically involved with McCarthy, or wanted to be, and that the speech was personal revenge. But she had her defenders. Democratic Senator Paul Douglas of Illinois, who walked over after she delivered her declaration, tenderly grasped her hand, then, voice choking and eyes tearing, silently retreated. Days later at a luncheon, President Truman told her that her remarks were “one of the finest things that has happened here in Washington in all my years in the Senate and the White House.” Most satisfying of all in that era of glass ceilings, statesman and financier Bernard Baruch said if a man had delivered the same rebuke Smith did, he’d be the next president of the United States. No sooner had she finished, than McCarthy started

INTRODUCING

Sen. Joe McCarthy with his attorney, Roy Cohn, during the McCarthy hearings in 1954. smearing her. How did he try to take her down?

Using his authority as ranking Republican, in 1951 he dumped Smith from the subcommittee he’d named her to, replacing her with a friendlier Richard Nixon. He let her know not in person, but in a note slipped under her office door. After reading it, she tried to phone McCarthy; told he was busy, she left this message: “I fully realize that kicking me off the Investigations Subcommittee is an act of vengeance.” Message delivered—and received.

INTRODUCING INTRODUCING

Your book reveals Smith paid “a secret price” for her courage against McCarthy. How high were the stakes?

nstead of becoming president or vice president, Smith had to fight to defend the Senate job she’d won in 1948, after taking over her deceased husband’s seat in the House eight years earlier. McCarthy never forgot an enemy, and there were few he resented as much as the woman he’d dubbed Snow White. While the general outlines of that animus were known in real time, the full details wouldn’t become clear until she wrote about it 20 years later and, more recently, this author was given access to McCarthy’s papers.

How did President Eisenhower shun Smith after the speech?

He ignored her the way Joe hoped he would and could count on, because in those early years Ike showed none of the backbone Margaret did in standing up to the Wisconsin bully.

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Who was the winner of the Smith/McCarthy showdown?

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I wish it were so. But in this case, Smith’s courageous verdict was rendered four years before

Summerguide 2020 121

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America fell out of love with Joe McCarthy. Who’s the closest person we have to Senator Smith today?

Mitt Romney, on his better-angel days. How do you set up a book tour during this time of coronavirus?

y original 10-city live tour is going mainly virtual, with talks listed at larrytye.com. It’ll be more like 25 cities this way, reaching more listeners than any of my eight books. But I will miss the in-person back-and-forth that’s a huge part of any author’s reward for finishing a book.

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If a stranger happened upon a desk or space where you’ve been writing just a few minutes earlier, how would s/he know you’ve been there?

From the stacks of print-outs, with markups made with a red pen, and books piled everywhere as I try not just to get my quotes letter-perfect, but to remember to add footnotes as I go. When you’re in the groove as a writer, what’s your favorite snack as you plunge deeper into your material?

Small-kernel yellow popcorn.

Tell us about the first time you ever visited Maine.

I came as a toddler more than half a century ago with my mother, a native of South Portland, to swim, eat, and visit her brother’s family who’s still there. I kept coming back to my cousins’, to ski, and to Warren’s Lobster House in Kittery, which wasn’t far from our summer place in Seabrook.

n ine stones sPa

In the eighties, Stephen King once called (during one of our interviews) Portland a place that was trying to market itself as “a blow-dry, Perrier, Mazda type of town.” Decades later, what’s your take on Portland?

Stephen King knows it much better than me, but I think Portland has done a better job than Newburyport, Portsmouth, and most formerly gritty and authentic New England coastal communities at preserving what made it special even as it spiffs up. If Margaret Chase Smith were alive and in the Senate today, how would she have to amend her “Declaration of Conscience” to account for 21st-century outrages?

Sadly, she could use nearly word-for-word the same understated declaration. n

Demagogue: The Life and Long Shadow of Senator Joe McCarthy (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), $36. Released July 7, 2020. 122 p o r t l a n d magazine

Summerguide 2020 123

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The Allagash itself is a character in the film. It’s not very forgiving. You can’t be a sissy and live in Maine.

”

Chilling Out

A pair of icy Maine thrillers—Blood & Money, starring Tom Berenger, and Blow the Man Down, starring Morgan Saylor of Homeland— is just the ticket to help us beat the heat.

By So fi a Volt in

courtesy photo

wo sensational Maine films slipped into our world just ahead of COVID-19. The production crews agree it’s a miracle they reached us. Best of all, they’re a pleasure to screen.

a deadly chase Vietnam veteran Jim Reed (Tom Berenger) trudges through the deep snow, hunting in the Allagash backcountry. He discovers a dead woman with a duffle bag full of money. Before he knows it he’s tangled in a

dangerous web, fighting for survival. Blood & Money is available for rent on Amazon Prime for $6.99. “We were supposed to have a limited theatrical release in May,” producer Suza Horvat says. Due to the COVID-19 closures, “We pivoted to go only digital. It’s still been a great release for us. We’ve seen a shift over the years as more people have better TVs and screening rooms in their homes. Even with a theatrical release, we’d still have had a strong digital presence too.”

On set The movie was filmed around Bethel and Rumford. “The weather was the biggest challenge but also the biggest fun.” Debut director John Barr “was very specific to wanting to shoot in Maine,” Horvat says. “He grew up in Cumberland” and knows the terrain. As a child, he went hunting and fishing throughout the Allagash with his father and uncles. “For him, it was just going home.”

t was a different story for the rest of the crew, Horvat says. “We weren’t used to that kind of weather. We were filming in feet of snow. A couple of guys would come out early to the location and tamp down paths for the rest of us. So we’d be no more than ankle-deep unless we accidentally stepped off the path. Then, you’d sink down to your waist in the snow. It really broke up the monotony of the day.” Blood & Money is gearing up for international attention. “We just signed with Signature Entertainment in the United Kingdom. It will be released in London and the British Isles in September and October. We’re still watching other countries for a potential theatrical release. “As small filmmakers, we hope our film gathers some traction. We’ve proven there’s a lot we can do in a year, and we want to stick to that quick turn-around. John, who started as a cinematographer, is writing again, and he’s staying in the thriller genre. He leans toward writing about the northeast coast. I’d love to come back to film in Maine. My biggest takeaway is the sense of camaraderie. One way or another, rain or shine, we’ll be back.” The producers hope for a Maine premiere. “A drive-in theater would be a brilliant way to premiere it, with the whole cast and crew in their cars. Blood & Money is 90 minutes. The entertainment value in terms of story build and payoff is perfect for a drive-in.” Think The Treasure of the Sierra Madre—but realA chillier ly cold. “It’s great to see drive-ins rising big chill. during this time. We Tom Berenger starred in the have such tenacity in first The Big Chill. His Maine the face of adversity. outing is even chillier. Summerguide 2020 125

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On set

Morgan Saylor (left) and Sophie Lowe (right) in Blow the Man Down.

We want to do something, like go to the movies, and we will find a way.” “The Allagash itself is a character in the film,” Berenger says. “As Burt Reynolds told me about when they did Deliverance, ‘That river and the surrounding cliffs could upstage the hell out of you.’ I think this is somewhat similar. It will beat you down. It’s not very forgiving. You can’t be a sissy and live in Maine.” Fargo, the Maine edition low the Man Down—crime drama, mystery, dark comedy—was also a winter shoot—just 25 days. The film premiered at Tribeca Film Festival and was nominated for a 2020 Independent Spirit Award for Best First Screenplay. It was released digitally on March 20 exclusively on Amazon Prime. Attempting to cover up a violent run-in with a mysterious man, sisters Mary Beth (Morgan Saylor, Homeland) and Priscilla Connolly (Sophie Lowe) inadvertently expose the town’s seedy underbelly, including the criminal enterprise secretly operated by their own recently deceased mother and her friend Enid (a scene-stealing performance by Margo Martindale, Justified, The Americans, Million Dollar Baby). The film parades some of Harpswell’s favorite landmarks on screen: the Giant’s Stairs on Bailey Island, the one-of-a-kind Cribstone Bridge, the Orr’s Island Schoolhouse, and Holbrook’s General Store. Considering neither of the directors—Bridget Savage Cole and Danielle Krudy—grew up in Maine, the film captures a stark and surprisingly honest sense of our local dry, or salty, Maine humor. n

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H E A T M I Z E R . B I Z

B i c e n t ennial

Muddy Waters

What could demonstrations at Harvard Law School have to do with us here in Maine? A beloved waterway in Yarmouth hides a secret within its name. By Colin W. Sargent

Olivia Grant

Dateline 18 November 2015

hen darkness descends, the activists slip into Wasserstein Hall on a mission. They cover the offensive seals with black tape in repudiation and to demand a change in the design.

oyall Must Fall, a group of Har“Isaac Royall Jr. was more than simply a slave owner; he was vard Law students, has had it. Fed complicit in torture and in a gruesome conflagration wherein 77 black human beings were burned alive,” Odette Herbert flashed up with their school’s seal emblaon #royallmustfall. Among them was Hector, the Royalls’ longzoned with the family crest of Isaac time servant and plantation foreman, whom they watched burn at the stake. Royall Jr., a wealthy slaveholder, they But what started as a thought-provoking prosense the times call for an “art-action.” The Royal River, test against this symbol turned ugly. And personal. Hours later, some person or persons unknown No longer will they tolerate those goldwith one L, sneaked into Wasserstein. The next morning, the en sheaves of wheat. For some the shield student body and faculty were confronted with a hall is named for a full of defaced portraits. The black tape had been simply represents the generous gift that family with two. repurposed to blind the eyes and gag the mouths of founded the law school in 1817. For oththe African American law professors depicted. A backlash? “Perhaps the defacer is part of the law school comers, it’s a haunting reminder of the horror and terrimunity,” wrote Harvard Law professor Randall Kennedy, J.D., in an op-ed for The New York Times. “But maybe not.” ble price paid to generate that unspeakable wealth. Summerguide 2020 131

Bicentennia l Harvard University Police Department launched a hunt for the defacer(s) but closed the investigation in late January, 2016. In March of 2016, the Dean announced the seal would be scrapped. But as late as March of 2020, the former seal—it’s been called “Harvard’s Confederate flag”—continues to be seen on campus here and there. For years the faculty knew it as a ‘shield of shame.’ The Guardian noted, “In 2003, when now Supreme Court Justice Elena Kagan was named Dean of Harvard Law School, she declined the endowed Royall professorship” and its storied “Royall Chair.” Nobody likes a hot seat. And, yes, there is a connection to the Royal River in Maine.

ince the protests, Harvard Law has apologized for perpetuating the Royall sheaves of wheat in its escutcheon (designed in 1936 from the coat of arms of Isaac Royall Sr., born in North Yarmouth in what is now Maine) and revised it to remove all traces of the Royall family. The school has also funded a $5M study to identify more of Harvard’s links to slavery, though it has not yet stripped the name from the world-famous chair known as the Royall Professorship of Law. Overshadowed by coronavirus, global press outlets carried the story that Prime Minister Gaston Browne of Antigua and Barbuda had written a letter to Harvard president Lawrence S. Bacow, insisting on real money: “Reparation from Harvard would compensate for its development on the backs of our people…Reparation is not aid; it is not a gift; it is compensation to cor-

rect the injustices of the past and restore equity. Harvard should be in the forefront of this effort.” Sir Ronald M. Sanders, Ambassador to the U.S. from Antigua and Barbuda, has also volleyed with Harvard: “The reputation that Harvard enjoys internationally is intertwined with the dark legacy of Royall’s Antigua slaves who died in oppression, uncompensated for their lives in slavery and their death in cruelty.’”

Humble Beginnings

William Royall (1580-1676), a cooper, sailed from England to America on the Lion’s Whelp in 1629. After landing at Salem, he worked as an indentured servant for the Massachusetts Bay Company. As a reward, he was deeded land on the headlands of the Westcustogo River. Back then, North Yarmouth was called by the Wabanaki name Westquatuckqua (muddy waters), the various spelling of which has since evolved to Westcustogo. Royall must have had some influence for church services to have been held in his home. But “Repeated conflicts between colonists and the Native Americans caused… William [Royall] to take his family and remove to Dorchester, Massachusetts, in 1675,” according to geni.com. We all know Dorchester. Tough town. After growing up there, William’s grandson, Isaac Royall Sr. (1672-1739), chose a life at sea, becoming a rum merchant, sugar merchant, and, according to On the Battlefield of Merit (Harvard University Press, October 23, 2015) by Daniel R. Coquillette and Bruce A. Kimball, “an adventurer who sought to make his fortune in the slave

Reflections In The River Sir Ronald Sanders, Ambassador for Antigua and Barbuda to the United States Do Mainers have a responsibility to think of the Royall family’s crimes against the people of Antigua and to stop celebrating the name of the river without any context?

Heinous crimes of this nature have been celebrated in the name of this river. It should not require a great deal of difficulty to realize that celebration should be ended. That human life should be taken so easily and wantonly is wrong in itself. Is it negligent of us in what we like to call Vacationland to say we aren’t responsible for what happened in Antigua so long ago? ‘It didn’t happen here, so why do we and our tourists need the history lesson?’

Yes. It would be for the same reason that the later deniers in Germany of what happened at the time of Hitler’s extermination of the Jews 132 p o r t l a n d magazine

trade. By 1700, [at] 23, he was in Antigua, part owner of a Massachusetts-built slaver, ironically called the Mayflower.” When opportunity knocked, Royall pounced on the chance to invest in a plantation in Antigua. “A 1712–1713 census recorded 27 white men ‘fit to bear arms’ and 364 slaves [no mention of women in either category]. Here Isaac Royall Jr. was born in 1719, and his sister Penelope, in 1724.” The family business thrived. But because of living conditions on the Royall plantation in Popeshead, Antigua, countless enslaved workers died. In the forests, including one secret meeting place four miles from the Royall plantation, enslaved people and maroons hiding from captivity plotted a revolt. According to face2faceafrica.com, “The plan was that, in late October of 1736, during a grand ball for the westerners in honor of George II’s coronation, a 10-gallon barrel of gunpowder would be smuggled into the building and blown up, killing every single westerner at the ball. The sound of the explosion was to be an alert for several allied enslaved Africans to start killing every white they came across, causing a general massacre…” The plot unraveled; the insurrection was quashed before it started. No landowners were killed. But all hell broke loose, and the executions began. “During the slave revolt, the son [Isaac Royall Jr.] was only 13 years old,” says Dan Coquillette, visiting professor of American Legal History at Harvard Law School. “I’m sure he was part of the force that suppressed the revolt, but not necessarily the

would be hiding from the truth. It would be wrong for any of us to use the passage of time [as an excuse] to not take the actions we know would be right. Since early November 2019, has Harvard responded with a financial proposal for funding academic scholarships for Antiguan students as partial retribution, as you’ve suggested in your correspondence with them?

I have been in communication with Dr. Lawrence Bacow, the president at Harvard University. Indeed, I visited Dr. Bacow and a number of his senior staff. I gave him a number of proposals, most of which he rejected, some of which he accepted. I took what he said he would undertake in good faith. I am unhappy with what happened in this discussion because Dr. Bacow’s written communications did not reflect my notes. Since then he has been a victim of COVID-19, and I have not pressed the matter. But I will after his recovery. There has never been a better time for Harvard to step in... Its trust funds run to $47B.

reprisals. The father [Isaac Royall Sr.] clearly would be.”

The Mainer

“T

he pure brutality is the father,” Coquillette says. “He doesn’t seem to have done anything for Maine that’s generous. But in Harvard’s case, “The shield was everywhere. In books, everywhere. [Professor of American Legal History] Annette GordonReed said, ‘Imagine having had to deal with that as an African American student.’ “The students [demonstrating in] Royall Must Go took over the student lounge,” Coquillette says. “They were forced to. The Royall River [a.k.a. Royal] is not on a podium. It’s not on stationery. It’s the name of a river.” And not even the original name.

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River of Blood

“Let’s take the Doubting Thomas position,” Coquillette says. ‘You’re taking Isaac Royall Jr. out of the context of the time when he lived, and that’s unfair. Washington and Jefferson had slaves. Seen in the background, Isaac Royall Jr. was an unremarkable slave owner.’ His father, however, was different. That’s vindicated by his own words in his reports to London. Isaac Royall Sr. was a brutal man, even by the standards of his time. He didn’t found Bowdoin College or anything. You could make it an easy case to change the river.”

Burned Alive

r. Natasha Lightfoot, associate professor of history at Columbia University, says, “Hector was an enslaved driver owned by Isaac Roy-

Esther Agbaje, J.D., Harvard Law 2017 “I was one of the activists at the Harvard demonstrations. We became involved with a group that came across the shield and how it was related to the Royall family, and that basically their money came from slave plantations.” The next morning, Agbaje and her fellow law students entered the hallways, ready for class. “We saw that the photos of professors of color were covered with strips of black tape.” That brought to light the “systemic barriers we still face.” NDD20201_SmilePower_Print_4.75x7.5.indd 4

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Bicen t e n n i a l all Sr., a position of some trust within the hierarchy of enslaved labor in the Caribbean. Drivers functioned like foremen, supervising enslaved field men and women who did the work of planting, irrigating, hoeing, reaping, and processing sugar cane… Drivers were not exempt, however, from receiving punishment themselves, and also may have had to endure the peculiar torture of inflicting bodily harm on friends and family when ordered to do so. Hector was named as a co-conspirator at the trials, and for his alleged crime he was burned at the stake on February 18, 1737. Royall received £100 compensation for what authorities judged to be the value of Hector at the time of his death.” If you lived in Maine and knew what you know, would you change the name of our river? “I would certainly change the name. Keeping the name of “Royall River” makes the river a lasting monument to the violence of slavery and settler colonialism in the Americas. There were communities established in the area long before the arrival of any European settlers. I would suggest researching what First Nations/Native American peoples lived near the river and likely used it for their daily lives and commerce, and naming the river after them.”

Dolce Far Niente Means “Pleasant Idleness”

he following is the way the 1736 conspiracy is described in its entirety in Gladys N.

Map of the Human Heart

The Royal River snakes its way for 39 miles from the Atlantic Ocean to Sabbathday Lake. According to yankeemarina.com, “Navigating the Royal River, with a MLW [mean low water] controlling depth of eight feet in most boats, is easy. The approach to the channel is between the eastern ends of Cousins and Littlejohn islands, and the western ends of Mosher and Little Mosher islands. The channel officially begins just south of Lanes Island at Buoy 1 (green flashing light, period of four seconds) and proceeds to the basin just south of Interstate 295. The channel is well marked—care must be used though to not skip any buoys. If you are new to the river and would like us to guide you please give us a call to arrange an escort.”

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Bicentennial Hoover’s The Elegant Royalls of Colonial New England (Vantage Press, 1974): “For many years the black slaves had led hard lives and savage and bloody uprisings were followed by repressive measures and frequent executions of slave leaders. The blacks vowed to destroy every white on the island, a threat which the whites believed might come to pass. Gone was the beautiful dolce far niente life of the plantation owners and their families. As Isaac Royall watched his wealth diminishing and his livelihood disappearing, he did some hard thinking and came to the conclusion that he must leave Antigua…”

Why Did The Royalls Really Return to New England?

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ccording to Coquillette and Kimball, “The 1736 revolt…followed a number of natural disasters, including terrible droughts, the worst being in 1725, a massive hurricane in 1733, and earthquakes in 1735. ‘Black leprosy,’ tuberculoid leprosy, was common among the enslaved, and in 1736 there was a smallpox epidemic. Isaac Royall Sr. had seen enough. As early as 1732 he was buying land along the Mystic River in what is now Medford [Massachusetts], where he moved his family and slaves in 1737 and where he lived until his death in 1739.” Speaking at the bicentennial celebration of Harvard Law School, Coquillette tackled Isaac Royall Jr. and the founding of the Royall Chair at Harvard Law head on. “It was out of the blue that Harvard received a bequest… of $3,000, which translates to about $400,000 today. Not a huge bequest,

One L or 2, Still the Same

(207) 205-5796

“I think of Royall with two L’s. I don’t see dead people, but I do see consonants erased by time and convenience. They haunt me at night. I grew up reading about the Royalls in books like The Elegant Royalls of Colonial New England (Vantage Press, 1974). I learned by rote that the Royall family hailed from North Yarmouth, heart of the Royall River. But I remember no misdeeds of the Royall family in Antigua mentioned in my Maine history schoolbooks. I grew up in a sure-handed world that knew how to make its way along a river without pausing to wonder how many souls it might have drowned.”–CWS

but it was designed to permit the university to establish a chair in law or a chair in medicine at the university’s election.” The bequest was from the estate of a preposterously wealthy man who died in Eng-

The river runs through Stephen King stories, including Salem’s Lot and The Shawshank Redemption. land, Coquillette said. “The reason why Isaac Royall [Jr.] was in England: He made his money in the slave plantations of Antigua—sugar slavery where if you cut your finger, it gets infected and you die. I mean, brutal slavery. He had 170 slaves on Antigua. He brought 24 here. He came here sort of to retire, to get away from the yellow fever and the slave revolts. He suppressed one with his father, brutally. But when the [American] Revolution broke out, he was a monarchist, and he got the word from Lexington of the fight and he just fled. He left his family behind. So when I take new ‘one Ls’ [first year law students] around and show them the portrait of Royall, I say, ‘Look. Here’s the founder of the school: brutal slaveholder, traitor, and coward. Other than that, a perfect role model for you.’”

Royall Conundrum

“

he earliest map I can find naming the river Royal was a map by Wolfgang Willliam Römer in 1699, where it was spelled ‘Roiall River,’” says Dr. Matthew Edney, the Cartographic Scholar at the University of Southern Maine’s Osher Map Library. “There’s another from 1722 by another mapmaker where it is named ‘Royalls River.’” “The river is named for William Royall, the first permanent settler,” Dr. Katie Worthing of Yarmouth Historical Society says. “The anglicized version of the name for the area around the mouth of the river is Westcustogo. According to historian William H. Rowe, Royall’s first homestead

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Bicentennia l was at Fogg’s Point (still labeled as such on Google maps in South Freeport). He later moved to Royall’s Farm, which was in the triangular piece of land between the Royal and Cousins Rivers. “…Our main local sources (William H. Rowe’s Ancient North Yarmouth and Yarmouth, Maine, 1636-1936 and Augustus Corliss’s Old Times, North Yarmouth, Maine) agree that the river was indeed named for William Royall, as he was among the very first European settlers and owned land around the mouth of the river. “I suspect the shift between Royal and Royall was somewhat inconsistent over time. For example, in one 1857 map, it’s labeled Royal River, but in another 1857 map, it’s actually called Yarmouth River. In an 1871 map, they use Royals River. The commemorative plaque installed in 1939 by the Village Improvement Society refers to Royall’s River. Postcards from the 1910s and ’20s also use Royall’s River. Later 20th-century sources use Royal River; the 1988 DeLorme Gazetteer uses Royal River. “I have one article from 1986 that men-

Back to Shore

“You can keep the history and learn from it. You can watch a Woody Allen movie but stop giving Woody Allen awards. Don’t conflate erasure with removing elements of worship. Think of the star-maker machine that led Hoover to title her book The Elegant Royalls of Colonial New England. Maybe that’s our starting point, Maine. Whether or not we see the word Royall erased as the name of a river, let’s erase the word elegant.” –CWS tions that the 1937 U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey topographical map switched from Royall’s to Royal. That map was then used for other sources, so Royal proliferated from there, much to many residents’ dismay. Currently, I think many folks recognize Royall or Royall’s as the older, original name for the river. I’m not sure of a percentage.” *** A lingering question. Did the river become more universally known as the Royall River after the Royalls became “elegant” and wealthy? The sheaves of wheat were added to Harvard’s shield in 1936. Shouldn’t hazard lights flash when Vil-

lage Improvement Societies carve history in stone 200 years after it happened? Colonials felt privileged to change Westcustogo to Royall. Shouldn’t it be just as easy to change it back?

Meet a Thoroughly Modern Royall

atricia Inness Royall, formerly of Yarmouth and now a resident of East Boothbay, answers the telephone with a bright, upbeat voice. She’s just finished a career as executive director of the Boothbay Harbor Chamber of Commerce.

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She’s enthusiastic rather than guarded. “Isaac Royall left the gift that founded the Royall chair at Harvard Law School,” she says. There’s the slightest pause. “They took the Royall coat of arms off the Harvard Law shield.” Do you think the name of the Royall River should be changed? One scholar has suggested that the Maine people consider a name that predates the Royalls’ arrival. Maybe Westcustogo. “Was it Westcustogo? William Royall was deeded property, but that was on Indian land. He built three houses there and added a fence. The Indians would still attack him and burn down the houses. My uncle was Admiral William F. Royall, a genealogist. He gave me his books and charts. I have a map from the 1600s of Georges Bank. William Royall came to America on the ship Lion’s Whelp in [1629]. You know Phineas Sprague from Portland Yacht? His ancestor was on the same boat. I met Phineas once at the Portland Flower show. He said, ‘Your family and my family came over on the Lion’s Whelp.

They were literally on the same boat at the same time!’” What would you say to the Harvard demonstrators if they camped out on your lawn and demanded to know why the Royalls did what they did in Antigua? “Janet Halley, who holds the Royall chair, has written thoughtfully about this. I feel you can’t erase history. The idea of enslaving anyone is awful to me. But it happened. Of course I’m sensitive about it because it was my family. But if you erase it from the books, that doesn’t mean it never happened.”n

2020

If you feel this story is an indictment of what the Royall family did in the past, I’ve missed the mark. It’s about what we all do and understand in the future. Each and every soul in New England prospered from the infamous Triangle Trade and still enjoy the effects of that prosperity. All of what we venerate as Colonial New England’s culture was built on the backs of enslaved people. No family is exempt from responsibility—particularly mine. —Colin W. Sargent RRCT.org translates Westcustogo as “muddy.” Mainecoastsurveying.com translates it as “gullied river banks.”

Summerguide 2020 139

Theater

Belfast Flying Shoes, 143 Church St., Spintuition, Aug. 7; Dancing in the Park, Aug. 22. 338-0979. Center Theatre, 20 E. Main St., Dover-Foxcroft. Born in a Small Town, Aug. 14–23. 564-8943. Cold Comfort Theater, 139 Northport Ave., Suite One, Belfast. Happy Birthday America, Jul. 4. 930-7244. Freeport Performing Arts Center, 30 Holbrook St., Black Coffee, Jul. 10–19; One Blue Tarp, Sep. 4–13. 865-2220. Heartwood Regional Theater Company, Parker B. Poe Theater, 81 Academy Hill Rd., Newcastle. Pride & Prejudice, Jul. 30–Aug. 8. 563-1373. Lakewood Theater, 76 Theater Rd., Madison.

Opening Night, Aug. 6–15; Two on the Aisle, Three in a Van, Aug. 20–29; Something Fishy, Sep. 3–12; But Why Bump Off Barnaby, Sep. 17–26. 474-7176. Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Maytag Virgin, Sep. 10–27. 942-3333. Saco River Theater, 29 Salmon Falls Rd., Buxton. Mrs. Mannerly, Jul. 16–25. 929-6615. Schoolhouse Arts Center, 16 Richville Rd., Standish. Tarzan the Musical, Jul. 9–26; Rabbit Hole, Sep. 11–13; The Red Eye Theater Project, Sep. 25–26. 642-3743. The Strand Theatre, 345 Main St., Rockland. Strand on the Air, Jun. 28. 701-5053. Waterville Opera House, 93 Main St. 3rd Flr., A Flea in Her Ear, Jun. 19–21; Missou-

140 p o r t l a n d magazine

la Children’s Theatre: The Frog Prince Aug. 1, Sleeping Beauty, Aug. 8, Treasure Island, Aug. 15. 12873-7000.

Music

Aura, 121 Center St. One Night of Queen, Aug. 22; Squeeze, Aug. 28. 772-8274. Bach Virtuosi Festival, virtual event. Aug. 16–23. bachvirtuosifestival.org. Bar Harbor Music Festival, virtual event, Jun. 28–Jul. 26. barharbormusicfestival.org. Bay Chamber Concerts, 18 Central St., Rockport. Masterworks virtual series, every Thu. Jul. 9–Aug. 13; Jupiter Quartet livestream, Aug. 6. 236-2823. Bayside Bowl, 58 Alder St. Bim Skala Bim, Jun. 26; The Samples, Jul. 12. 791-2695. Blue, 650A Congress St. Andrea Re & Friends, Jul. 16;

Samuel James & D. Gross, YEAH MAN, Jul. 17; Ocean Sol, Jul. 19; Frank Fotusky, Kyle Friday, Jul. 23; Carl Dimow Quartet, Jul. 25; Dirty Mae, Jul. 26; Choro Louco, Jul. 31; Evan King Group, Aug. 7; Sonic Explorers, Aug. 8; Forêt Endormie, Aug. 11; Taylor O’Donnell, Aug. 15. 774-4111. Camden Opera House, 29 Elm St., Gentle Temper, Aug. 7; Chris Ross, Aug. 14; Oshima Brothers, Aug. 21–22; MMCM, Aug. 28. 236-7963. Center Theatre, 20 E. Main St., Dover-Foxcroft. Beatles for Sale, Aug. 22. 564-8943. Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick. Summer Jam Camp Out, Jul 3–5; Green Woods Roots & Culture Revival, Aug. 7–9. 725-6009. Hamilton House, 40 Vaughan’s Ln., South Berwick. Ruby Mac, Jul. 5; Har-

vey Reid, Jul. 12; Margorie Senet & the Broken-Home Boys, Jul. 19. 384-2454. Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln., The Don Campbell Band, Jun. 13; Rust Never Sleeps, Jul. 11; Carbon Leaf, Jul. 12; Crystal Bowersox, Jul. 17; Dueling Pianos, Jul. 18; Jonathan Edwards, Jul. 26; Michael Doucet & Sarah Quintana, Aug. 18; Judy Collins, Aug. 27; Jimmy Keys, Aug. 29. 646-4777. Newagen Seaside Inn, 60 Newagen Colony Rd., Southport. Fireside Tales, every Wed.; Music in the Pub, every Thu. & Sun. 633-5242. One Longfellow Square, 181 State St., Ward Hayden & The Outliers, Jul. 10; Studio Two, Jul. 12; Portland Jazz Orchestra, Jul. 23, Aug. 20; John Craigie, Aug. 5; David Wax Museum, Aug. 21; Griffin

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Experience Congress St., Stephen Lynch, Jul. 16; Ian Fidance, Aug. 2. 956-6000. Saco River Theater, 29 Salmon Falls Rd., Buxton. Yes&Co. Improv Show, Aug. 15. Avner the Eccentric: Exceptions to Gravity, Aug. 29. 929-6615. State Theatre, 609 Congress St. Artie Lange, Aug. 8; Whose Live Anyway?, Aug. 27. 956-6000.

LUSH, HUSH at Center for Mai ne Contemporary Art through August 15. 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. The Quebe Sisters, Jul. 17; Ruthie Foster, Jul. 30; Stone Mountain LIVE Anniversary Show, Aug. 1; Judith Owen, Aug. 8; John Gorka, Aug. 15; Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Aug. 19–20; Johnny Nicholas with John Sebastian & Cindy Cashdollar, Aug. 28. 935-7292. The Strand Theatre, 345 Main St., Rockland. Judith Owen, Aug. 7; Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Aug. 21. 701-5053. Thompson’s Point, 10 Thompson’s Point. Wilco & SleaterKinney, Aug. 26. 956-6000. House, Aug. 26; Le Vent du Nord, Aug. 27. 761-1757. Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave. Seth Warner, Jul. 10; Kevin Kiley & Friends, Jul. 25; Murky Water Band, Jul. 30; Golden Oak, Aug. 1; The Steel Wheels, Aug. 7; Sean Mencher, Aug. 8; Slocan Ramblers, Aug. 15; Bob Milne, Aug. 19; Cherish the Ladies, Aug. 21. 633-5159. Port City Music Hall, 504 Congress St. Stephen Lynch, Jul. 16; Ian Fidance, Aug. 2; The Jacob Jolliff Band & Town Meeting, Aug. 9; Hamilton Leithauser, Aug. 10; 956-6000. The Porthole, 20 Custom House Wharf. Trifecta, Northern Groove, Jul. 11, Aug. 8; Hello Newman, Jul. 12, Aug. 16; Hollis Hollow, Sugarbox, Jul. 18; FOG AVE, Jul. 19; American Ride, Jul. 24; Ragged Jack, Jul. 25; Tilden

Katz, Jul. 26; Stolen Mojo, Jul. 31; Christie Ray Duo, Aug. 2; Hollis Hollow, Aug. 8; Dwayne Haggins Band, Aug. 9; Doubting Gravity, Aug. 15. 773-4653. Portland House of Music, 25 Temple St. Tumbledown, Jul. 11; Bumpin’ Uglies + Livid Orange, Jul. 23; Bait Bag, Jul. 24; SCIENCE! A Burlesque Look at STEM, Jul. 31; Hours North, Aug. 15. 805-0134. Saco River Theater, 29 Salmon Falls Rd., Buxton. Duncreagan, Aug. 1; Jason Anick Acoustic Trio, Aug. 14, David Mallett, Aug. 22. 929-6615. Savage Oakes, 175 Barrett Hill Rd, Union. Blues Traveler, Aug. 15. 785-2828. State Theatre, 609 Congress St., Old Crow Medicine Show, Jul. 3; Brian Fallon & The Howling Weather, Aug. 5; Daughtry, Aug. 26. 956-6000. Stone Mountain Arts Center,

Waterville Opera House, 93 Main St. 3rd Flr., Waterville. LeAnn Rimes, Aug. 13; Rustic Overtones, Aug. 22. 873-7000.

Comedy

Blue, 650A Congress St. The BLT Comedy Show, Jul. 28, Aug. 25. 774-4111. Cross Insurance Arena, 1 Civic Center Sq., Impractical Jokers, Jun. 18. 791-2200. Empire, 575 Congress St., Jackie Fabulous, Aug. 22; Rebecca Rush, Aug. 28. 558-2279. Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln., Bob Marley Comedy Show, Jun. 3–7, 14; Steve Sweeney, Jul. 3; Paula Poundstone, Jul. 10, Aug. 21; 646-4777. One Longfellow Square, 181 State St. Bob Marley, Jun. 26–27. 761-1757. Port City Music Hall, 504

Stone Mountain Arts Center, 695 Dugway Rd., Brownfield. Paula Poundstone, Aug. 14. 935-7292.

Art

Bowdoin College Museum of Art, 245 Maine St., Brunswick. New Views of the Middle Ages: Highlights from the Wyvern Collection, Aug. 27–Jan. 3, 2021. 725-3275. Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter St., Rockland. Lush, hush, through Aug. 15; Skirting the Line, Erin Dorne: Question the Body, Erin Johnson: Unnamed For Decades, through Sep. 20. 701-5005. Dowling Walsh Gallery, 365 Main St., Rockland. Marilynn Gelfman Karp, through Aug. 1; Jenny Brillhart, Jul. 3–Aug. 1; Cig Harvey, Jul. 3–Aug. 29; Elizabeth Fox, Aug. 7–29; Scott Kelley, Aug. 7–Sep. 26. 596-0084. Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. MAINE: The Farnsworth Collection, Andrew Wyeth: Maine Legacy, Eliot Porter: All the Wild Places, and First to Hail the Rising Sun: Maine Through the Eyes of Artists, through Jan. 3, 2021. 5966457. Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Mary Bourke: Somewhere Between Water and Woods, Jun. 18–Jul.11; Daniel Minter, Jul. 16–Aug. 8; John Whalley, Aug. 6–29. 772-2693. Kittery Art Association, 8 Coleman Ave., Tactility, through Jul. 5; Black and White, Jul. 9–Aug. 9; Water,

Water Everywhere, Aug. 13– Sep. 13. 451-9384. Maine Art Hill, 10 Chase Hill Rd., Kennebunk. Trip Park, Bethany Harper Williams, Ellen Welch Granter, Jun. 27–Jul. 16; Margaret Gerding & William B. Hoyt, Jul. 18–Aug. 6; Jill Matthews, Janis H. Sanders, Ingunn M. Joergensen, Aug. 8–Sep. 7; Claire Bigbee, Liz Hoag, Julie Houck, Aug. 29–Sep. 24. 204-2042. Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St., State of Mind: Becoming Maine, through Jan. 30, 2021. 774-1822. Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Interwoven: Threads of Power in the Domestic Sphere, through Oct. 4; Shipwrecks & Salvage, and We Lead: Maritime Pioneers Past & Present, through Nov. 1; 443-1316. Ogunquit Museum of American Art, 543 Shore Rd., Andy Rosen: After Party, Kathleen Speranza: Vanitas Vita, Emily Nelligan: Nocturne, Jul. 1–Oct. 31. 646-4909. Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq., Stories of Maine: An Incomplete History, on view digitally. 775-6148. The Press Hotel, 119 Exchange St., Matt Chamberlain, Jul. 3-Sep. 25. 808-8800. Richard Boyd Art Gallery, 15 Epps St., Peaks Island. Patricia Chandler, Jul. 1–30; Jane Herbert, Aug. 1–30. 712-1097. River Arts, 241 US-1, Damariscotta. Wild Things, Jul. 17–Aug. 15; Land & Sea, Aug. 21–Sep. 19. 563-1507. Speedwell Projects, 630 Forest Ave. Abby Shahn: 50 Years, through Jul. 31. 805-1835.

Tasty

Flight Deck Brewing, 11 Atlantic Ave., Brunswick. Books & Brews, Jul. 1, Aug. 5. 504-5133.

Summerguide 2020 141

Experience Fork Food Lab, 72 Parris St., Virtual open house every First Friday via Instagram live. 558-0881. Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Co. & Museum, 49 Thames St., Ice Cream Train, Jul. 10, 24, Aug. 7, 21. 828-0814.

The Trailing Yew MONHEGAN ISLAND, MAINE WWW.TRAILINGYEW.COM (207)-596-0440

Newagen Seaside Inn, 60 Newagen Colony Rd., Southport. Tuesday Lobster Bakes, every Tue. Jul.Aug. 633-5242. Skowhegan State Fairgrounds, 33 Constitution Ave. Artisan Bread Fair, Jul. 25. kneadingconference.com.

Film

Maine International Film Festival, Skowhegan Drive-In Theater, 201 Waterville Rd., Skowhegan. Jul. 7–16. 861-8138. Maine Outdoor Film Festival, 123 Free St., Suite 200. Outdoor screenings in Portland, (films and venues TBA), Jul. 30–Aug. 9. 619-3622. Waterville Opera House, 1 Common St., Maine Student Film + Video Festival, Jul. 18. 873-7000.

Literary

Camden Opera House, 29 Elm St., Camden. The Literary Salon: Poetry with Strings Attached, Aug. 30. 236-7963.

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1 4 6 M i d d l e S t r e e t , P o r t l a n d M a i n e 0 4 1 0 1 • i n f o @ g r e e n h u t g a l l e r i e s . c o m • w w w. g r e e n h u t g a l l e r i e s . c o m • 2 0 7-7 7 2 - 2 6 9 3 Summerguide 2020 143

Experience Longfellow Books, Monument Square. Virtual launch for Union by Colin Woodard, Jun. 16. 772-4045.

Lessons | Training Select Boarding

Stay Active And Healthy

Portland Public Library, 5 Monument Sq., Virtual Literary Lunch: Jake: An American Original, Jul. 8; Virtual Spotlight Lecture: Jennifer Finney Boylan on her book Good Boy, Jul. 16; Literary Lunch: Stephanie Soileau & Elizabeth Wetmore, Aug. 19. 774-0465. Print: A Bookstore, 273 Congress St. Virtual Events: Emerson Whitney, Heaven with Arisa White, Jun. 25; Jamie Pacton, The Life and (Medieval) Times of Kit Sweetly with Ashley Poston, Jun. 29. 536-4778.

Lectures

Maine Maritime Museum, 243 Washington St., Bath. Cultivating Leadership on Maine’s Islands, Jul. 23. 443-1316. MOFGA, Common Ground Education Center, 294 Crosby Brook Rd., Unity. Farming and Marketing Cooperatively, Jul. 8; Soil Health and Intensified Vegetable Growing, Jul. 22; Rabbit Processing Workshop, Jul. 23; Growing Nursery Stock & Bud Grafting, Aug. 1; Modern Dairy & Agricultural Policy, Aug. 5; Farming & Climate Change, Aug. 13. 568-4142.

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SPACE, 538 Congress St. Mental Health in the Immigrant Community, Jul. 12. 828-5600.

Don’t Miss

Flaherty Farm Arts & Crafts Show, 123 Payne Rd., Scarborough. Handcrafted products ranging from pottery, stained glass, jewelry, folk & fine art, wood products, specialty foods, soaps, and candles, Aug. 7–9. 883-5494. Lobstercon2020, Thomas Point Beach, 29 Meadow Rd., Brunswick. Weekend of camping, BBQ lunch & lobster dinner, stargazing, flea market, raffle, & live music, Jul. 10–12. 725-6009. Maine Lobster Boat Races, Rockland, Jun. 27; Bass Harbor, Jun. 28; Moosabec Reach, Jul. 4; Friendship, Jul. 19; Winter Harbor, Aug. 8; Long Island, Aug. 15; Pemaquid, Aug. 16; Portland, Aug. 16. Ogunquit Heritage Museum, Captain James Winn House, 86 Obeds Ln. Celebrating Maine’s bicentennial with exhibits on famous tea houses, fisherman, & local paintings & photographs, Jul. 1-Oct. 31. 646-0296. Wells Chili-Fest, Wells Junior High School, Rte. 1. Chili cook-offs in three categories with cash prizes, Aug. 29. 646-2451. York Days, Short Sands Beach. Virtual 5k road race and Nubble Lighthouse lighting, Aug. 2. 363-1040.

Please check our online calendar for updates at portlandmonthly.com. Summerguide 2020 145

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Elegant historic lodging and business events Fully restored and modernized home featuring 10 bedrooms 52OceanAve.com 770.656.4939 52 Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport, ME 04046 Summerguide 2020 147

e d i s t u o r ...open fo . . . e d i s r e v i r dining Until restrictions are lifted we offer our full menu al fresco. To Go and curbside pick-up food and beverages are also available.

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Dining Guide

All-natural wood-fired pizza Tuesday Community Benefits 5–9 p.m. Delivery, takeout & dine-in. Portion of sales go to local non-profit. Live Music Acoustic every Monday 6–8 Bluegrass Thursdays twice a month Visit our Facebook to see a full list of events!

Sunday – Thursday 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. 72 Commercial Street | 207-772-8777 FLATBREADCOMPANY.COM/PORTLAND

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic e F e n l ey’s l u B portland’s pub 773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS 150 p o r t l a n d magazine

Ada’s Portland brings the joy and beauty of fresh pasta, ravioli, and Roman pizza to Portland. With origins in Italy and a start in Rockland, they bring community and authenticity to 642 Congress Street. Enjoy housemade pasta and Italian specialties made-to-order in its quick-service restaurant and pasta, sauces, wine, and more in its retail store. Dine-in or carry-out. Limited seating.

Barnacle Billy’s Luxury lobster, steamed clams, lusty drinks, BBQ chicken, homemade clam chowder, lobster rolls & stew. Indoor & sundeck seating to enjoy both the beautiful harbor & ocean beyond. Perkins Cove, Ogunquit, 646-5575, barnbilly.com Becky’s Diner has been serving comfort food at a reasonable price on Portland’s historic waterfront since 1991. Located at 390 Commercial Street, we offer all-day breakfast, locally sourced seafood, and diner classics such as our Roast Turkey Dinner. Featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives,” come see what all the fuss is about. Becky’s Diner, Nothin Finah! 773-7070.

BlueFin North Atlantic Seafood Chef Gil Plaster creates the quintessential Old Port dining experience: classic, contemporary dishes with fresh, locally caught seafood & seasonal ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, or your favorite cocktail in comfortable elegance or out on the patio w/ fire pit. 468 Fore St. 775-9090, bluefinportland.com.

Boone’s Fish House & Oyster Room Native seafood—fresh Maine lobster steamed over rockweed, a variety of oysters & wood-grilled fish, steaks & chops. Baked Stuffed Lobster invented here by Alexander Boone right on the Portland Waterfront in 1898. 86 Commercial St. 774-5725, boonesfishhouse.com.

Bull Feeney’s Authentic hearty Irish fare: from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, & seafood. Local craft & premium imported brews. Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music 5 nights. Open 7 days, 11:30-1. Kitchen till 10. 375 Fore St. 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com. eighteen95 A warm and intimate restaurant w/ a lovely fireplace in the historic Portland Regency Hotel and Spa. Offering Breakfast, Dinner, and Sunday brunch. Specializing in modern American dishes w/ a New England influence. Local seafood, pork, chicken, turkey, with beef & produce from our farm! 774-4200.

El Corazon Mexican food from the heart. Authentic family recipes passed down through generations & “oversized tequila selection.” Try our “Marisco”—a Mexican seafood cocktail of shrimp, bay scallops, clams, octopus & Maine lobster. Lun. & din., Mon.–Thurs. 11–10. Fri.-Sat. till 11. Sun. 9–9. 190 State St. 536-1354, elcorazonportland.com. Flatbread Company Portland Tucked between two wharves with picturesque waterfront views. Family-friendly restaurant w/ signature pizzas, weekly carne & veggie specials. Made w/ local ingredients, baked in wood-fired, clay ovens. Everything’s

Restaurant Review homemade, organic, and nitrate-free. 24 local drafts & cocktails showcase all-local breweries & distilleries. 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com. Hurricane Restaurant New England cuisine with an international twist. Lobster & blueberry pie! Local produce and seafood, full bar, award-winning wine list, in-house dessert chef. Sunday brunch. Live music Wednesday nights. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. Bar menu always available. Good restaurants come and go. Great restaurants get better and better. Reservations suggested. 29 Dock Square, Kennebunkport. 967-9111, hurricanerestaurant.com. Maria’s Ristorante Portland’s original classic Italian restaurant. Greg & Tony Napolitano prepare classics: Zuppa di Pesce, Eggplant Parmigiana, Grilled Veal Sausages, Veal Chop Milanese, homemade cavatelli pastas, Pistachio Gelato & Maine’s Best Meatballs. See our own sauce in local stores. $11.95-$22.95. Open at 5 Wed.-Sat. Catering always avail. 1335 Congress Street 772-9232, mariasrestaurant.com. Pizzaiolo Authentic New York-style pizzeria with over 3 decades of experience. We use only the freshest local ingredients to give you the best possible product. From our pizza and pasta to meatball subs and salads, you won’t be disappointed. Open weekdays until midnight, Fri. and Sat. until 2 a.m. 360 Cumberland Ave. Eat-in, carry-out and delivery. 536-7210, pizzaioloportland.com. Portland Lobster Company “Maine’s Best Lobster Roll,” lobster dinners, steamers, fried claims, chowder. Enjoy live music daily w/ ice-cold local beer or fine wine on our deck overlooking gorgeous Portland Harbor. 180 Commercial St., 775-2112, portlandlobstercompany.com.

from top: olivia grant (2); courtesy photo

Rivalries Sports Pub & Grill Now with two fun, comfortable upscale sports bar locations. Known for great pub food, Rivalries’ menu has something for everyone. With 30+ HD TVs and every major pro and college sports package, you won’t miss a game! Located at 10 Cotton St. in Portland. (7746044). And 2 Hat Trick Drive, just off I-295 in Falmouth. 747-4020, rivalriesmaine.com. Sea Glass at Inn by the Sea Chef Chadwick’s seasonally sourced, innovative taste of Maine. Spectacular ocean views inside the intimate restaurant or on the decks. Creative vegan dishes w/produce & seafood from local farms & sea. (Wine Spectator “Best of” Award of Excellence) 40 Bowery Beach Rd., Cape Elizabeth. 7993134, innbythesea.com. Shay’s Pub & Grill Heart of Portland. Local favorite since 2005. Pub fare specialties: sweet & spicy chicken sandwich, fish & chips, seasonal salads. Famous $5 martini menu & daily specials. Outdoor seating. M-Tues. 11:30-9, W-Sat. 11:30-10, Sun. closed. Schedule your private event with us! 18 Monument Sq. 772-2626, shaysgrillpub.com.

The Floating Opera If a visiting guest asks for a fanciful seafood dinner that screams Portland, where do you go?

By Colin w. Sargent

y nephew Russell Davis is a celebrity mixologist. You can still catch him on Bar Rescue; he’s been voted Bartender of the Year; he developed the Zero-Gravity martini glass. His breakaway talent? He knows his trade down deep, listens when you describe your dream of a drink, then makes it come true. On The View, he created a cocktail for Whoopi Goldberg that won her over—even after she told him she wasn’t thirsty! So when Russell swept into Maine with, “If I have just one night here, where should we go? I’m hoping for something specific to Portland and nowhere else. A place with a real hook,” I listened. We took him to DiMillo’s on the Water, serving lunch and dinner on a restored 1941 car ferry that’s taken passengers from New Castle, Delaware, to Pennsylvania; Norfolk to Hampton, Virginia; and Newport to Jamestown, Rhode Island, according to DiMillos.com. In between, the ferry’s been a clubhouse for the Setauket Yacht Club at Port Jefferson, New York, and a youth art colony in Pawtucket.

Russell was all eyes and all ears. He took in the yachts in the marina. “Now this is what I’m talking about!” Lobster stew, fried clams, 1½ pound lobster. The drinks DiMillo’s concocted hit the spot, and he was facinated to learn that DiMillo’s stayed open during The Perfect Storm. (Sebastian Junger, author of the bestselling The Perfect Storm, has written for us at Portland Monthly. [See “Speeding On Small Roads,” July/August 1993.]) If anyone’s going to sail through this summer, bet on DiMillo’s. DiMillo’s, in this new world, now takes surf ‘n’ turf precisely. It’s not just curbside service; it’s also dockside, including cocktails. Now that’s thinking outside the boat. They also have outdoor tables where you can enjoy the breeze, the views, and the working waterfront sounds. We place an order by phone from the special menu and within 20 minutes are enjoying: 1) Lobster Stuffed Twice Baked Potato ($29), with cheese, sour cream, fresh parsley, and chives. A feast that easily serves two. 2) Lobster Club Sandwich ($20), with fries. It’s dressier than a lobster roll and ready to party because bacon is riding shotgun. DiMillo’s makes it look easy in their dreamy waterfront location below the cry of gulls. New in town? A Portland habitue? Hungry? Even if just through a windshield, we’ll see you there. n DiMillo’s on the Water, 25 Long Wharf, Portland. Tuesday–Saturday, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. 772-2216. Summerguide 2020 151

Swing Time This oceanfront retreat on Wells Beach suits a legend.

hen young William S. Nutter, 30, invented Palm Beach cloth in 1908, he ruled the world. Suddenly, swells across the globe craved white dinner jackets tailored from Nutter’s patented “tropical weight mohair-cotton blend” fabric. Remember Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca? This summer, The Met is breathless in its description of the iconic suit in its costume collection: “The washable suit was comfortable to wear, and 152 p o r t l a n d magazine

the Palm Beach suit became the staple of the well-dressed man’s summer wardrobe.” The clamor for Nutter’s invention must have dizzied him. He needed the perfect contemplative retreat. For a breath of fresh air, he acquired this romantic six-bedroom oceanfront house on Wells Beach in 1909 and lived here with his wife Beatrice Rice Nutter, then 32. Fifty-three Rachel Carson Lane must have satisfied the scientist in William. If you swing a compass, this is the closest line from the Goodall Worsted mills in Sanford to the boom of the surf. To get here, drive through the marsh from Route 1 to Wells Beach, and turn right just before you hit the sand of Webhannet Beach. Follow the ultramarine blue waves past Casino Square to the 3,682-square-foot mansion that’s right on top of the water, with its unforgettable wraparound porch and slight upturn of the roof, like a pagoda.

from left: Colin Sargent; Obeo Photogrpahy

By Colin W. Sargent

House of the Month

ur guide is the seller, Jeanne Smith, in her 80s. “My husband and I are the third owners of the place we call Big Red. We bought it in 1964 and upgraded the electricity to [Romex and a circuit-breaker] panel. We’ve put in a new furnace and oil tank. Otherwise, the on-

Fun fact: According to Harland Eastman in Cluster of Maine Villages, “When Goodall Worsted and Sanford Mills merged in 1944, 4,500 persons were employed in the firm’s Sanford and Springvale plants.”

ly thing we’ve ever changed in this house is the kitchen sink.” Big Red has nine-foot ceilings, an enormous brick fireplace, original built-ins and paneling, and a personality all her own. Jeanne demurs about her purchase price in 1964, then bursts out: “Thirty-four thousand, five hundred! Prices were like that back then. During the winters we were living in Lexington, Massachusetts, where I grew up. One summer day here at the beach, a big touring car stopped by. Mrs.

Nutter was inside. I invited her in and gave her a photo of her late husband sitting by the fireplace that the second owners had passed down to me. The first thing she wanted to see was the front porch. She said, ‘Oh, I remember the day Will and I bought this. Look! That’s all our Heywood-Wakefield furniture. It’s still here!’” William S. Nutter died at 82 in 1961. Beatrice passed away 10 years later in Sanford. In 2020, Big Red is still in near-original condition. “This is the ‘new’ refrigerator,” Smith’s real estate broker, Steve Weigel of Coldwell Banker Y-Gull & Associates, says of a vintage appliance that whispers late 1920s. “The original four-door icebox is right here,” trimmed in polished oak and brass. “The floors are Southern hard pine,” he says. “The reason they used Southern hard pine in these beach houses back then is it has so much pitch in it that it doesn’t buckle and curl if you come in wet from swimming.” Which was never a problem, since there are private dressing rooms in the basement. The purchase price includes two large lots behind the house, a 1930s garage transformed into a knotty pine guest cottage with ocean views, and a shuffleboard court. “My husband worked for New England Life and retired in 1989 when we sold our primary home,” Jean says. Here in Big Red, “I read so many books. I sit on the sun porch a lot and read” with the ocean waves unrolling like an incredible movie. “We’ve played a lot of cards out here—Liverpool, a progressive rummy. We played a lot of cribbage. The room I like best is the pine room right off the screened porch. It’s cozy, and there’s such a nice breeze. In the winter, we’ve seen baby seals on the beach; somebody always takes care of them. You’ll often see lobster traps”—ghost traps torn from their buoys and tossed onto the beach by storms. She catches her breath. “Oh, we used to cook lobsters here! My husband was in group insurance and had independent agencies all through the State of Maine. We’d inSummerguide 2020 153

Step back through History at Historic Fort Knox

Look for us on FortKnoxMaine.com and Facebook Find us just oﬀ US Route 1 near Bucksport

• Fred Nutter, a former editorial director at WCSH 6, was born in Sanford. He was the great-great nephew of William S. Nutter. • William S. Nutter was born in Saltaire, West Yorkshire, England. He arrived in Sanford when he was four in 1882.

Your coastal connection.

• Exhibited in 2020 at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 150th Anniversary Show, the Palm Beach suit sparked a worldwide trend: metmuseum.org/art/collection/ search/159532

Traveling to Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard & Provincetown just got easier.

vite his insurance execs and their families and have bonfires on the beach on July 4. You could do that back then. We’d have lobster bakes with big lobsters and steamers on the beach. One of the fellows who worked for my husband liked to use the seaweed. We had corn and big buckets and lobsters and steamers.” She says it again, but softly: “You could do that back then.”

Portland

MA Boston

Provincetown Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

capeair.com | 800-CAPE-AIR 154 p o r t l a n d magazine

House of the Month

he’s selling Big Red because “I’m all alone now. I live with my daughter, who also has a house in Wells. It’s very bittersweet. There’s a fragrance mixed with the breeze and sea here like no other. It’s not sweet, not harsh—it’s an ocean fragrance. My kids will come in, take a deep breath, and say, ‘There it is.’” À la recherche du temps perdu. Another thing she’ll miss: “Everyone comes in and says, ‘Wow!’ I’ll miss that. People ask, ‘How can you live on the ocean?’ and I’ll say, ‘Well, I do!” For $1.655M, so can you. What a place to quarantine this summer! n Taxes are $15,631.

obeo photography

Scenic Views atop Penobscot Narrows Observatory

20 Apple Blossom Lane Kennebunkport, Maine 04046

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Homes & Living

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10 westward lane, saco, Maine 04072 188 Mills Road, Kennebunkport | MLS 1437453 | $2,449,000

Call Vicki Benenti 207.590.5650 vbenenti@pmrealestate.com Pack Maynard & Associates Real Estate, LLC 165 Port Road Kennebunk, Maine

With distant marsh and ocean views, this stunning estate is located between Cape Porpoise Village and beautiful Goose Rocks Beach. The extraordinary compound is sited on an elevated lot of 8+ acres, with a canopy of mature trees lining the sweeping driveway inviting you to the home. The property features a 4-bedroom, 4700+ square ft. home with a spacious combination kitchen-dining-sunroom area, 2 living rooms, study with floor to ceiling built-ins, and relaxing screen porches. The 2000+ square ft, 5-bay, detached, heated garage has a charming 1-bedroom apartment above, AND huge exercise/game room. Professionally landscaped with colorful perennial gardens, this is a very special offering on the coast of southern Maine!

P M R e A L e S tAt e . C o M Summerguide 2020 157

Homes & Living

SHELDON SLATE is a family-owned business with four generation of experience. We mine and manufacture our own slate products

from our own quarries. The range of our colors will complement any kitchen or bath. Our slate is heat-resistant, non-porous, and nonfading. It has a polished/honed finish and is very low maintenance. Let us help you design and build a custom sink, countertop, or vanity. Custom Inquiries are handled through the Monson, Maine, division. PRODUCERS OF SLATE FLOOR TILE, FLAGGING, STRUCTURAL SLATE AND ROOFING, MONUMENTS, AND SLATE SINKS Monson, Maine 04464 207-997-3615 Middle Granville, New York 12849 518-642-1280 SHELDONSLATE.COM

Charlene’s

Charlene Weinstein, Designated Broker Cell: 207-632-3284 charlene@charlenescoastalproperties.com

CoastalProperties

Old Orchard Beach Beach View Condominiums Great Ocean Views! $659,000 NEW (2-unit) detached townhouse-style condominiums located just 50 feet from miles of sandy beaches in a quiet neighborhood. These are unique in many ways, starting with a large tandem 2-car garage with beautiful glass doors on the ground floor. Open-concept second floor with 8-foot ceilings and great views of the beach and ocean. There is a large deck off the living room. The kitchen has granite counters, new cabinets, and stainless steel appliances. Half bath located just off kitchen. Bluetooth sound system throughout. The third floor has a master suite with amazing view and slider glass doors out to large deck, and a “Jack & Jill Style” bathroom situated between the second bedroom. Stacked Washer/Dryer. Electric Split Heat and Air Conditioning System. Large patio for sitting out and cookouts. Units differ a little from 1220 to 1330 square feet of living space. Low Condo Fees. Pet Friendly. Property is owned by broker.

For a “Shore” Sale

192 Saco Ave., Old Orchard Beach, Maine • Office: 207-937-8084 • www.charlenescoastalproperties.com 158 p o r t l a n d magazine

EAST OF EDEN 145 EDEN STREET, BAR HARBOR | $5,750,000 This gilded age mansion has been fully restored. “The estate’s interior rivals its exterior in opulence—enormous columns, polished marble floors, and a 14-foot vaulted ceiling. Not to miss: the T.R. Mantey mural painted across from an enormous, arched window, mirroring the window’s framed ocean vista.” [See “East of Eden,” Portland Monthly Magazine, October 2017.]

REAL ESTATE • TIMBERLAND

Story Litchfield

slitchfield@landvest.com

(207) 276-3840

125 Main Street, Northeast Harbor, Maine

# Broker 1 Coldwell Maine Banker 2018 a nd 20 19

44 Juniper Lane, Ogunquit | MLS 1437915 | $2,695,000

0 Perkins Lane, Wells | MLS 1451728 | $1,249,000

Spectacular 4-bedroom 3.5-bath Ogunquit Coastal Estate with panoramic views overlooking Perkins Cove and the Atlantic Ocean from every room. Built by one of the areas premier custom builders, this 4-level state-of-the-art Smart Home has it all including an elevator to all levels. Custom-designed cabinetry and built-ins. The 3rd floor master suite has decks on 2 sides with spectacular ocean views, master bath with jetted soaking tub and steam shower. Beautiful gourmet kitchen and dining room with custom cabinetry, granite counters, and butlers pantry. Living area opens up to large deck with views of Perkins Cove. 3-car heated garage & exercise area on the ground floor. All within 2 miles of Ogunquit Center, Ogunquit Beach, and just a short walk to Perkins Cove. Deeded foot passage to a private beach.

Recently-completed 4-bedroom 4-bath custom beach house w/ panoramic ocean views at Grey Gull Estates at Moody Point. Beautifully designed and located, this home features large open sun-filled rooms with views from almost every room. Large oceanfront deck, central air, hardwood and tile flooring, designer kitchen, large 1-car garage and only 100 yards from the crashing surf. Set back from Webhannet Drive, this is the third of 5 homes to be built in this quiet location near Pebble Beach. Short walk to sandy Crescent Beach to the north or Moody (Ogunquit) Beach to the south. High-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail (Bosch appliances, quartz countertops, Kohler Fixtures) make this a very special home. Enjoy everything the area has to offer from surf and sand to restaurants & shops. Totally secure location out of the flood zone. This is the Home you have been waiting for.

53 Rachel Carson Lane, Wells | MLS 1414193 | $1,655,000

314 Webhannet Drive, Wells | MLS 1447091 | $949,900

Spectacular turn-of-the-century, 3-story, classic beachfront home on triple lot on sandy Webhannet (Wells) Beach. This home goes back to when style and craftsmanship were as important as location. Features large, open, sun-filled rooms with 9-foot ceilings and beautiful ornate woodwork and built-ins. Original built-in 4-door ice box with its polished oak and brass doors will take you back in time. Relax and enjoy the panoramic beach/ ocean views from the glassed-in porch with brick fireplace. Master bedroom with ensuite bath plus 5 other spacious bedrooms. Full walk-out basement and garage with room for all the toys you need to enjoy the beach. Separate legal guest cottage. Large yard of lush lawn, steps from the beach. All this and close to everything the Wells/Ogunquit area has to offer. Comes fully furnished.

Year round 5-bedroom, 2-bath oceanfront home right on the sandy beach. This unique bungalow retains all the charm of a vintage beach house, yet is updated with modern amenities. Spacious rooms are filled with sunlight and ocean breezes. The living area is open concept with tons of character: original beadboard walls and wooden ceilings. Enjoy sun rise over the ocean and the sun sets over the marsh, watch the seals, herons, and lobster boats. Ample parking with a 1-car garage below. Sizeable lot surrounded by beach roses with some separation from other houses, which affords privacy that is uncommon at the beach. Great rental property for 10 guests, with all appliances and furniture included. Close to everything the area has to offer. Adjacent oceanfront buildable lot (MLS# 14472830) is also available, either separately or together with the house at a reduced price. This ocean loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise has been lived in yearround by the same family for 36 years, and now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waiting for you!

Steve Weigel, Broker Stevedw@ygull.com

Y-GULL & ASSOCIATES 664 Post Road, Wells | www.ygull.com

Office (207) 646-5336 Cell (207) 251-1815

Homes & Living

er s A rOOf g in r b l l n” “One CA nOT A sAlesmA l rofessiona osing A P ut Of Cho O n ai P he We Take T 10-Year Workmanship guarantee

n OgOtfoer i r g a A m s i g e t n elrli Welcome to Maine! lslatb e A s An” u C m e e s . e n W s l O e “ t A o s u A q Are you looking to buy or sell Maine Callreal Or Text 207-772-2719 ail wnrOitTtenhdonwoseinwilgl AsenPdroa wferisttseion nquaolte. m e www.theroofdoc.com afilCa fullY insured & free esTimATes

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estate? Call Today! I’m looking forward to helping you with your real estate needs. Greg Hodgkins, Realtor Coldwell Banker Residential Brokerage Realty 53 Baxter Boulevard, Portland Maine 04101 (207)730-1205 Gregory.Hodgkins@nemoves.com

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The crew at Northeast Heat Pumps has worked together for over 15 years, installing and servicing heat

The crew at Northeast Heat Pumps has worked together for over 15 years, installing and servicing heat pumps in the local area. Owner Ryan Keith takes pride in serving customers and sharing his knowledge and pumps in the local area. Owner Ryan Keith takes pride in serving customers and sharing his knowledge enthusiasm for heat pumps. He believes that the cornerstone of an energy-efficient home is the heat pump. and enthusiasm for heat pumps. He believes that the cornerstone of an energy-efficient home is the A heat can heat your home while saving yousaving moneyyou on oil, gas oron propane. can also dehumidify the heat pump. A pump heat pump can heat your home while money oil, gasItor propane. It can also air and act as an air conditioner in warmer temperatures. A heat pump is an effi cient, all-in-one method dehumidify the air and act as an air conditioner in warmer temperatures. A heat pump is an efficient,of all-in-one method heating cooling your home for a fraction of the cost of other systems. heating and of cooling yourand home for a fraction of the cost of other systems. RESIDENTIAL & COMMERCIAL RESIDENTIAL & COMMERCIAL Contact foraaFREE FREE ESTIMATE. Contact us us for ESTIMATE. REGISTERED EFFICIENCY MAINE MAINE VENDOR REGISTERED EFFICIENCY VENDOR www.northeastheatpumps.com www.northeastheatpumps.com UP TO $1500 REBATES FOR QUALIFYING UNITSUNITS UP TO $1500 REBATES FOR QUALIFYING officenehp@gmail.com officenehp@gmail.com INSTALLATIONS AND MAINTENANCE OF EXISTING SYSTEMS INSTALLATIONS AND MAINTENANCE OF EXISTING SYSTEMS 207-504-0128| |Durham, Durham, Maine 207-504-0128 ME 04222 04222 MITSUBISHI AND FUJITSU, WITH AWITH 12-YEAR WARRANTY MITSUBISHI AND FUJITSU, A 12-YEAR WARRANTY

Summerguide 2020 161

www.bhhsnortheastrealestate.com

Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Sales Manager (207) 831-4934 kelly@kellywentworth.com

Gilbert D. Eaton III Chebeague Island Assistant (207) 491-5150 specseaton@gmail.com specseaton@gmail.com

Tina E. Eileen St.Wilson Amand (207) (207) 229-9250 274-1681 tinaewilson@yahoo.com eileenstamand.realtor@gmail.com

Gloria Fogg DeGrandpre (207) 232-6648 gloriad556@aol.com

Sherrie Benner (207) 776-2163 sherrie@bennergrouprealestate.com

Our office is conveniently located at 208 US Route 1 in Freeport, Maine. Our professional agents provide personalized service to buyers and sellers of residential homes, land, and investment properties in surrounding towns. Come talk with us and see why you just can’t duplicate our people! If you are thinking of buying or selling, contact one of our professional agents today! You’ll be glad you did! ©2018 2018 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An Independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc.® Equal Housing Opportunity.

P.O. Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 P.O. Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 •••• (207) (207)734-8809 734-8809 P.O. (207) 734-8809 P.O.Box Box300, 300,Islesboro, Islesboro, ME ME 04848 04848 (207) 734-8809 • www.islesboro.com oldhamip@midcoast.com www.islesboro.com oldhamip@midcoast.com oldhamip@midcoast.com www.islesboro.com oldhamip@midcoast.com ••• www.islesboro.com

SLESBORO I IISLESBORO ISLAND SLAND IISSSLESBORO SLAND SLESBORO IISLAND ELECT P PROPERTIES ROPERTIES ELECT S PROPERTIES ROPERTIES John Oldham, Oldham, John Broker SELECT ELECT P

P.O. Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 • (207) 734-8809 John Oldham, Broker John Oldham, Broker P.O. Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 • (207) 734-8809 • www.islesboro.com 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 P.O. oldhamip@midcoast.com Box 300, P.O. • (207) 734-8809 P.O. Box Box 300, Islesboro, ME 04848 • (207) 734-8809 oldhamip@midcoast.com • www.islesboro.com oldhamip@midcoast.com www.islesboro.com oldhamip@midcoast.com oldhamip@midcoast.com ••• www.islesboro.com Heavenly Daze, Turtle Head Contemporary Well-crafted fully furnished yearround home perched

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Radiant Radiant heat throughout, great roomsunsets. with window window wall and deck, AC. Guest suite; bedroom, bath, kitchenette over the of East Penobscot Bay. Radiant heat throughout, of East Penobscot Bay. Radiant heat throughout, great room with window wall and and deck, deck, AC. AC. Guest suite;bedroom, bedroom, bath,located kitchenette overthe the great room with wall and deck, AC. Guest suite; bedroom, bath, kitchenette over the covered porches. Conveniently to library, great room with Guest suite; bath, kitchenette over window wall andwindow deck, AC.wall Guest suite; bedroom, bath, kitchenette over the detached garage. Simple covered porches. Just Conveniently located to library, gardens and footpaths. steps to the shore. $549,000 detached garage. garage. Simple Simple and and inviting covered porches. Conveniently located to library, covered porches. Conveniently located to library, detached garage. Simple and inviting gardens and footpaths. 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NOW ONLY $425,000! tennis Elegant Yearround Rebel Hill Cottage Reminiscent of gracious turn of the century Dark Harbor summer homes, this luxurious open Elegant Yearround Rebel Hill Cottage Inviting yearround home, offeatures concept three bedroom home large living Inviting yearround home,heart heart ofDark Dark Harbor Elegant Yearround Rebel HillHarbor Cottage Elegant Yearround Rebel Hill Cottage Inviting yearround home, heart of Dark Harbor Elegant Yearround Rebel Hill Cottage Inviting yearround home, heart of Dark Harbor Elegant Year-round Rebel Hill Cottage Reminiscent of gracious turn of the century Dark Village, just steps summer shops. Built room with massive stone fireplace, dining room, Village, just steps from summer shops. Builtin in Reminiscent offrom gracious turn of thecentury century Dark the century Dark Reminiscent of gracious turn of Village, just steps from summer shops. Built in Reminiscent of gracious turn of the Dark Village, just steps from summer shops. 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Two-bedroom Cedar shingled home on six Four-Bedroom HomeCedar Cedar home on Cunning Shingled 1400-sq.ft. Two-bedroom Four-Bedroom Home Cedar shingled home onRoad. Home with Waterview setback back onWest West Bay acres including open fields and woodland. Home with Waterview set on Bay open concept dining-livquiet side lane. Spacious Home with Waterview set back on West BayRoad. Road. Home with Waterview set set back on West Bay Road. quiet side lane. Spacious open concept dining-livopen concept dining-livHome with water view back on West Bay Carefully crafted byopen island carpenter with brick quietCarefully side lane. Spacious concept dining-livMany attributes and opportunities with a1.5 central crafted by carpenter with brick ing First floor bedroom, two full baths. Carefully crafted byisland island carpenter with brick Carefully crafted by island carpenter with brick ingroom. room. First floor bedroom, two full baths. 1.5 bedroom, two full baths. 1.5 Road. Carefully crafted bytwo island carpenter with kitchen hearth, beautiful wood flooring, and ing room. First floor bedroom, fullferry. baths. 1.5 location handy to the and stores and This one's kitchen hearth, beautiful wood flooring, and acres with large sunny yard woods. Convenkitchen hearth, beautiful wood flooring, and kitchen hearth, beautiful wood flooring, and acres with large sunny yard and woods. Convenand woods. Convenbrick kitchen hearth, beautiful wood flooring, detached two-bay garage and loft. Almost six acresdetached with large sunny yard and woods. Convena keeper! $250,000. two-bay garage and loft. Almost six ient ferry and town dock boating. More Almost six detached two-bay garage and loft. detached two-bay garage and loft. Almost six ientto toand ferry and town dock boating. More boating. More detached two-bay garage and loft. Almost six acres including openboating. fields More and woodland. woodland. ient acres to ferryincluding and town dock open fields and acres including open fields and woodland. woodland. acreage available. $265,000. acres including open fields and acreage available. $265,000. $265,000. acres including open fi elds and woodland. Many Many attributes and opportunities opportunitieswith withaacentral central acreage available. $265,000. Many attributes and Many attributes and opportunities opportunities withlocation central Many attributes and with aa central attributes and opportunities central location handy to the the stores storeswith andaferry. ferry. Thisone's one's location handy to and This location handy to the the stores and ferry. ferry. This one's location to one's handy tohandy the stores andstores ferry. and This one’s aThis keeper! $250,000. a keeper! aaakeeper! $250,000. keeper! $250,000. keeper! $250,000. $250,000 Four-Bedroom Home Cedar shingled home on quiet side lane. Spacious open concept dining-living room. First floor bedroom, two full baths. 1.5 acres with large sunny yard and woods. Convenient to ferry andHome town dock boating. More Four-Bedroom Cedar shingled homeon on Four-Bedroom Home Cedar Four-Bedroom Home Cedarshingled shingledhome home on on Four-Bedroom Home Cedar shingled home acreage $265,000. quiet side available. lane. Spacious open concept dining-liv-

Hermits HermitsPoint PointShorefront ShorefrontLot LotSplendid Splendidparcel parcel Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel offers offerswonderful wonderfulopen openwoods woodsand andcleared clearedbuilding building offers wonderful open woods and cleared building offers wonderful open woods and cleared building site. site.Private Privatedrive drivemeanders meandersthrough throughthe theproperty property site. Private drive meanders through the property site. Private drive meanders through the property enchanting to an open hillside meadow and enchanting to an open hillside meadow and enchanting to an open hillside meadow and enchanting to an open hillside meadow and Sprague's Sprague's Cove. Cove. Protective Protective restrictions restrictions and and Sprague's Cove. Protective restrictions and Sprague's Cove. Protective restrictions and covenants covenants assure assure the the quality quality of of your your estate. estate. covenants assure the quality of your estate. covenants assure the quality of your estate. $695,000 $695,000 $695,000 $695,000

Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel offers wonderful open woods and cleared building site. Private driveDramatic meanders through the property Marshall Cove Oceanfront Lot Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Lot Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Lot Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Lot enchanting to an open hillside meadow and Hermits Point Shorefront Lot Splendid parcel with 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Lot with 235 feet of rugged shoreline andwith beach. offers wonderful open woods and cleared building offers wonderful open woods and cleared offers wonderful open woods and cleared building with 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. with 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. Sprague's Cove. Protective restrictions and offers wonderful open woods and cleared building 3.45 acres of woods and ferns slope gently toto 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. 3.45 acres 3.45site. acres of woods woods and ferns ferns slopegently gently Private drive meanders through the property site. Private drivethe meanders through site. Private drive meanders through the property 3.45 acres of and slope to 3.45 acres ofassure woods andquality ferns slope to covenants of your estate. Private drive meanders through thegently property elevated building sites. Enjoy views ofof ofsite. woods and ferns slope gently towesterly elevated buildenchanting to an open hillside meadow and elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views enchanting to an open hillside meadow and enchanting to anbuilding open hillside meadow and views elevated sites. westerly of elevated sites. Enjoy Enjoy westerly views of $695,000 enchanting toSprague's an building open hillside meadow and the bay and mainland hills as the sun sets. ing sites. Enjoy westerly views of the bay and Cove. Protective restrictions and the bay and mainland hills as the sun sets. Sprague's Cove. Protective Protective restrictions Sprague's Cove. restrictions and the bay mainland hills as the sun the bay and and mainland hills asrestrictions the sun sets. sets. Sprague's Protective and mainland hills Cove. as the sun sets. quality $350,000 $350,000 covenants $350,000 covenants assure assure the the quality quality of of your your estate. covenants assure the of your estate. $350,000 $350,000 covenants assure the quality of your estate. $695,000 $695,000 $695,000 $695,000

Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Lot with 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. 3.45 acres of woods and ferns slope gently to Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your vacation Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views ofLot Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle yourvacation vacation Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your Marshall Cove Dramatic Oceanfront LotLot Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your vacation Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your oror year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. with 235 of rugged and beach. the bay andfeet mainland hills as thevacation sun sets. year round home amidst anshoreline unspoiled setting. with 235 feet ofamidst rugged shoreline and with 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. or year round home an unspoiled setting. 235 feet of rugged shoreline and beach. ororwith year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. private parcel with 11.61 acres of woods Very 3.45 acres of woods and ferns slope gently to $350,000 Very private parcel with 11.61 acres ofwoods woods 3.45 acresof ofwoods woods and ferns slope gently 3.45 acres of woods and ferns slope gently Very private parcel with 11.61 acres of 3.45 acres and ferns slope to to Very private parcel with 11.61 acres ofgently woods Very private parcel with 11.61 acres of woods and elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views of and meadow, 1142.6 feet of shore frontage and and meadow, 1142.6 feet of shore frontage and elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views and meadow, 1142.6 of shore frontage and elevated building sites. Enjoy westerly views of of and meadow, 1142.6 feet ofhills shore frontage and meadow, 1142.6 feet offeet shore frontage and cove the bay and mainland as the sun sets. cove beaches, wooded shore point building site cove beaches, wooded shore point building site the bay and mainland hills asbuilding thesun sun the bay and mainland hills the sun sets. cove beaches, wooded shore point site the bay and mainland hills asas the sets. cove beaches, wooded shore point building site beaches, wooded shore point building site with $350,000 with water three sides. bird life. with water on on three three sides. sides. Abundant Abundantbird birdlife. life. $350,000 $350,000 with water on $350,000 water on three bird life. DEP ap-life. with water onsides. threeAbundant sides. Abundant Abundant bird DEP approved building envelopes and drive. Soils DEP approved building envelopes and drive. Soils DEP approved building envelopes and drive. Soils proved buildingbuilding envelopes and drive.and Soils tested DEP approved envelopes drive. Soils tested and abutting conservancy land. tested andprotective protective abutting conservancy land. tested and conservancy land. and protective abuttingabutting conservancy land. An extested and protective protective abutting conservancy land. An exceptional getaway opportunity. opportunity. An exceptional getaway An exceptional getaway opportunity. ceptional getaway opportunity. NOW $175,000. opportunity. An exceptional getaway NOW NOW$175,000. $175,000. NOW NOW $175,000. $175,000. Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your vacation or year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. Very private parcel with 11.61 acres of woods and meadow, 1142.6 feet of Nestle shore frontage and Ryder Cove Waterfront your vacation Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor Prime water front Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your vacation Ryder Cove Waterfront your vacation Ryder Cove Waterfront Nestle your vacation Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor -point Prime water front Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor ---Nestle Prime water front cove beaches, wooded shore building site Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor—Prime water front Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor Prime water front or year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. boats swinging lot with sweeping harbor views of or year round home amidst an unspoiled or year round home amidst an unspoiled setting. orwith year round amidst anof unspoiled setting. lot with sweeping harbor views of boatsswinging swinging lot sweeping harbor views with water onhome three sides. Abundant bird life. lot with sweeping harbor views of boats swinglot with sweeping harbor views of boats boats swinging Very private parcel with 11.61 acres of woods on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. Very private parcel with 11.61 acres Very private parcel with 11.61 acres ofwoods woods Very private parcel with 11.61 acres of on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. DEP building envelopes and drive. Soils ing onapproved their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. and meadow, 1142.6 feet of shore frontage and Four acres and 200 feet ofof shore line and pleasant and meadow, 1142.6 feet of shore and meadow, 1142.6 feet shore frontage and and meadow, 1142.6 feet ofof shore frontage and Four acres and 200 feetabutting shore line and pleasant tested and protective conservancy land. Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and pleasant Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and pleasant Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and pleasant cove beaches, wooded shore point building site gravel beach. Convenient to the ferry and town cove beaches, wooded shore point cove beaches, wooded shore point building cove beaches, wooded shore point building site gravel beach.Convenient Convenient to the ferry and townsite An exceptional getaway opportunity. gravel beach. to the ferry and town gravel beach. Convenient to the ferry and town gravel beach. Convenient to the ferry andbird town with water on three sides. Abundant life. with aaaagood good wooded buffer ofof spruce and fir. with water onthree three sides. Abundant NOW $175,000. with water on sides. Abundant bird life. with water on three sides. Abundant bird life. with good wooded buffer spruce and fir. with wooded buffer of fir. with wooded buffer of spruce and ﬁr.and Sevwith a good good wooded buffer of spruce spruce and fir. DEP approved building envelopes and drive. Soils Several natural building sites among magnificent DEP approved building envelopes DEP approved building envelopes drive. DEP approved building envelopes and drive. Soils Several natural building sites among magnificent Several natural building sites among aaamagnificent eral natural building sites among a and magniﬁ centSoils Several natural building sites among a magnificent tested and protective abutting conservancy land. open stand of mature oaks. Enjoy the prevalent tested and protective abutting tested and protective abutting conservancy land. tested and protective abutting conservancy land. open stand of matureoaks. oaks. Enjoy the prevalent open stand of mature Enjoy the prevalent open stand of mature oaks. Enjoy the prevalent open stand of mature oaks.opportunity. Enjoy the prevalent An exceptional getaway opportunity. An exceptional getaway refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive and opportunity. An exceptional getaway opportunity. An exceptional getaway Common drive and refreshing southwest breeze. refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive andand southwest breeze. Common drive refreshing NOW$175,000. $175,000. refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive and NOW NOW $175,000. $175,000. NOW underground power installed. Soils test available. underground power Soils test available. underground powerinstalled. installed. Soils test available. underground power installed. Soils test available. underground power installed. Soils test available. $475,000 $475,000 $475,000 $475,000 Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor - Prime water front $475,000 lot with sweeping harbor views of boats swinging on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and pleasant Broadbeach. Cove, Gilkey Harbor - ferry Prime water front gravel Convenient to the and town Sprague's Cove Ocean Front 22 Acre Lot Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor - Prime water front Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor Prime water Broad Cove, Gilkey Harbor -- 22 Prime water front Sprague's Cove Ocean Front 22Lot, Acre Lot Sprague's Cove Ocean Front Acre Lot Sprague’s Cove Ocean Front 22-Acre lush Sprague's Cove Ocean Front Acre Lot lotwith with sweeping harbor views of22 boats swinging with a good wooded buffer of spruce and fir. lot sweeping harbor views of boats swinging Lush evergreens, soft fern glades, old woods road lot evergreens, with sweeping sweeping harbor views of woods boats swinging lot with harbor views of boats swinging road Lush softglades, fern glades, old woods road evergreens, soft fern old woods road to Lush evergreens, soft fern glades, old woods road ontheir their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. natural building sites among aHills magnificent on moorings, and Camden sunsets. totoSeveral 600 feet of beach tests, wetland onfeet their moorings, and Camden Hills on their moorings, and Camden Hills sunsets. and ledge. Soils tests, wetland 600 feet of beach and ledge. Soils tests, wetland ofof beach and ledge. Soils tests, wetland to600 600 feet beach and ledge. Soils tests, wetland Four acres and 200 feet shore line and pleasant open stand of mature oaks. Enjoy the prevalent Four acres and 200 feet ofof shore line and pleasant delineation, preliminary subdivision layout Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and Four acres and 200 feet of shore line and pleasant subdivision layout delineation, preliminary subdivision layout delineation, preliminary subdivision availdelineation, preliminary layout gravelbeach. beach. Convenient to thelayout ferry and town refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive and gravel tosubdivision the ferry and town available. Well home sites to gravel beach. beach. Convenient to the ferry gravel Convenient to the ferry and town elevated private home sites to available. WellConvenient elevated private home sites to able. elevated privatebuffer home sites to enjoy available. Well elevated private home sites tofir. withWell agood good wooded ofspruce spruce andfir. underground power installed. Soils test available. with a wooded buffer of and enjoy long sunset Penobscot Bay, with good wooded buffer of spruce with aa good wooded buffer of spruce and views ofof West Bay, enjoy long sunset views WestPenobscot Penobscot Bay,fir. long sunset views of West Penobscot Bay, Camden Several natural building sites among a magnificent $475,000 enjoy long sunset views of West Penobscot Bay, Several natural building sites among a magnificent Camden Hills. Several natural building sites Several natural building sites among a magnificent $335,000! Only $335,000! Camden Hills. Only Hills. Only $335,000! openstand stand mature oaks.Enjoy Enjoy theprevalent prevalent $335,000! Camden Hills.ofof Only open oaks. open stand stand of ofmature mature oaks. Enjoythethe open mature oaks. prevalent refreshing southwest breeze. Common driveand and refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive and refreshing southwest breeze. Common drive undergroundpower powerinstalled. installed.Soils Soilstest testavailable. available. underground underground power power installed. installed. Soils Soils test test available. available. underground $475,000 Cove Ocean Front 22 Acre Lot $475,000 Sprague's $475,000 $475,000 Lush evergreens, soft fern glades, old woods road to 600 feet of beach and ledge. Soils tests, wetland delineation, preliminary subdivision layout available. Well elevated private sites toLot Sprague's Cove Ocean Fronthome Acre Sprague's Cove Ocean Front 2222 Lot Sprague's Cove Ocean Front 22Acre Acre Sprague's Cove Ocean Front 22 Acre Lot enjoy sunset views of West Penobscot Bay, Lushlong evergreens, soft fern glades, old woods road

Real estate sales and vacation rentals since 1898

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WE ARE ENGEL & VÖLKERS. We are excited to annouce Homes & Harbors Real Estate is now Engel & Völkers Casco Bay. Visit us online cascobay.evrealestate.com or at a shop near you and let us help you follow your dream, home. Engel & Völkers Harpswell 1624 Harpswell Islands Road . Orr's Island . Maine 04066 . +1 207 833 0500 Engel & Völkers Brunswick 149 Maine Street, Suite 6C . Brunswick . Maine 04011 . +1 207 729 5900

©2019 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principles of the Fair Housing Act.

Homes & Living HOMES IN THE

Rangeley Lakes Region DALLAS PLANTATION The Saddleback property you have been waiting for! Elegant A-Frame less than 10 minutes to the slopes and downtown Rangeley. Perfect year-round residence or weekend getaway. Surrounded by recreation with easy snowmobile access and a short walk to the golf course. Seasonal views with a large deck and yard. Many recent updates and renovations. Open, sunny and spacious, sleeps 8 people with 2 bedrooms and a loft. Don't miss your chance to own a house in this sought-after location! $199,900 MLS # 1452364

SANDY RIVER PLANTATION Water views and privacy! With 4 bedrooms and a 5th ''bonus'' room, this is a lovely family home, weekend retreat or rental property with great income potential. Large porch overlooking the water and 2 balconies. ATV and snowmobile trails are nearby or ride on your own 3.45 acres! Short drive to Saddleback Mountain and Rangeley Lake. Sunny, bright, open interior and views from nearly every room. Quality stonework and woodwork throughout. $289,000 MLS # 1452449

CONTACT ANNA MOOG • 207-200-1186 • amoog@alliedrealty.net

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Homes & Living

Deering Highlands $789,000 5 Bed | 3 Full Bath | 2 Half Bath

West End Townhouse $1,075,000 3 Bed | 2 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath

Western Promenade $1,050,000 4 Bed | 2 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath

Portland Harbor Water Views $698,500 3 Bed | 2 Full Bath

John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

168 p o r t l a n d magazine

$1,950,000

BAILEY ISLAND WATERFRONT

Amazing Bailey Island oceanfront compound. 1850s restored Cape, oceanfront cottage, custom 2-story heated barn with 3/4 bath, fabulously finished 2nd floor using exotic woods built in 2003. This tastefully restored home enjoys views into Mackerel Cove, Harpswell Sound, and east to open ocean. This 4-bedroom, 4.5-bath home retains all original character. Custom flame birch cabinets, Brazilian Black Marinace granite counter tops, Aga oven, Viking refrigerator, built-in warming drawer, and wine cooler. $1,950,000

$699,000

HARPSWELL WATERFRONT

Uniquely sited Cape with 3 bedrooms and 2 baths. House is oriented toward Quahog Bay offering protected waterfront and deep water. Sit on the deck which is very close to the water’s edge. Water views from living room, kitchen, dining room, and master bedroom. Two-car garage under. Cathedral ceiling living room opens onto waterfront deck. New furnace in 2018. Good rental history. Private waterfront with open ocean views. $699,000

$209,000

BAILEY ISLAND WATERFRONT

WOW! Beautiful Mackerel Cove-Bailey Island seasonal condo(15 April-15 Nov) One bedroom unit overlooking the cove with its active lobster fishing fleet. Rental and pet privileges with potential for small boat dockage. Your gateway to Casco Bay and beyond. Relax, relax and enjoy this wonderful location. $209,000

$1,475,000

HARPSWELL WATERFRONT

Enjoy captivating water views, sun and moon rises from this beautiful oceanside Contemporary Cape privately sited on 9 acres with 350' of water frontage and private dock system. Features of this home and property include: gourmet kitchen, expansive living room, first-floor master bedroom suite, waterside hot tub room, second floor guest bedrooms and baths with great room, 10' ceilings, wrap around porches, oceanside stone patio, attached 3-car garage, and much more!! $1,475,000

$390,000

HARPSWELL WATERFRONT

Build your dream home on this private, elevated, wooded building site. Potential dramatic ocean views over Hen Cove and out to open ocean. Enjoy approximately 300' of tidal water frontage with dock potential. Ideal location for fishing, kayaking, and small boating. Enjoy walking or biking along Bethel Point Road to the Town Landing. Just a short drive to downtown Brunswick and the rest of Harpswell’s Restaurants and amenities. Potential for division. $390,000

$495,000

HARPSWELL WATERFRONT

Unique opportunity for south and west facing waterfront building site. Potential for dock. Level building site. Seller has updated 3 bedroom septic design and DOT driveway entrance permit for the site. Centrally located, convenient to both downtown Brunswick and Cook’s Corner. Fabulous waterfront building site. $495,000

$750,000

ORR’S ISLAND WATERFRONT

Just bring your suitcase. This Contemporary Cape on 2.7 acres on Orr’s Island comes fully furnished and is totally turn key. Home was built in 2010 and has been very lightly used since then. Enjoy over 240 feet of water frontage on Reed Cove. Features include whole house automatic generator, central air, wood floors, master with walk-in closet and full bath, daylight walk-out basement, 2-car attached garage, fireplace, and much more. $750,000

$235,000

BIRCH ISLAND WATERFRONT

Private boat access only. Come experience island living on Birch Island. Home is on the east side of the island which allows easy access at any tide at the ramp and float. Cottage was built with careful planning for long-term stays. Home is wired a for generator or solar power. Gas refrigerator and gas stove in the spacious kitchen. Great room with cathedral ceilings is lined with windows. Septic and well already installed. $235,000

$337,900

HARPSWELL WATERFRONT

Come build your dream home on this elevated 1-acre waterfront lot with 150 feet of frontage. Watch the sunsets over Middle Bay and Whaleboat Island. Stairs provide easy access to the beach at the head of Peter’s Cove. Canoe, kayak, or boat from your own waterfront lot. Close to Dolphin Marina and Erica’s Seafood. This lot is part of a larger parcel. Survey is being completed along with a septic design. $337,900

Specializing in Unique Coastal Harpswell Properties

Homes & Living

United Realty

FRAN FRAN RILEY, RILEY, GRI GRI BROKER BROKER

ROLANDLITTLEFIELD LITTLEFIELD ROLAND BROKER BROKER

307 307 Belmont Belmont Ave. Ave. •• Belfast, Belfast, ME ME 04915 04915 207-338-6000 207-338-6000 •• UnitedRealtyME.com UnitedRealtyME.com

Please visit visit our our website website for for virtual virtual tours tours on on our our listings listings and and access access to to ALL ALL Maine Maine Real Real Estate! Estate! Please Belfast

Swan Lake

179 nortHPort aVe, Belfast Swanville Notably one of THE most reThe Nesmith-Read House • $350,000 markable properties on this desirable lake! Located close to Belfast’s downtown and waterfront, this historical Circa Custom built w/3314 sq.ft., Cathedral ceil1783 Cape is within walking distance to hospital, oceanfront parks and ing in Great Room will awe you. Access to waterfront. Front parlor and living room are adorned with fireplaces, a both levels & garage. Waterfront deck from formal dining room off custom designed kitchen featuring ins, and dock for the 1.5 Acresgranite, w/ 285’built frontage & woodstove; an office/family room with entranceboats! to studio, currently used Expansion Possible. SWAN LAKE SWANVILLE as a custom, interiorWINTERPORT design studio. MLS: 1304620 | $529,900 With 9 rooms, 3 baths, building flexiblethe floor plan, and zoning allows Lake House was built in 1999. Interior adorned Year-Round Nestled at the end of Pleasant St,offers overlooking Penobscot administrative center,this professional, clinical officefeatures space, uses are endless. with wide spruce & yellow pine. Living room & kitchen with 200’ waterfront, 4 bdrm, 2.5 bath home Renovated 2009 with attention to maintaindeck the original this historic house, theopen charm adorn every open flofoor plan; French Doors to and a 1stwarmth floor bedroom or lovely openinfloor plan with accessgiven to wrap-around from details room. room Commercial, ADA accessible Utilities, Central Mls# 1446059 ce; master suite on upper level. Beautiful views. Walkout living and sunroom. Vistas willw/City awe you. Detached 4 AC.offi Be agarage part ofw/loft. its history, one of Belfast’spaved oldest, existing houses, The Nesmith-Read House. $350,000 basement. 110’ waterfront, beach & dock. Rec room over bay Property is fenced, drive, sea wall; garage. MLS:1359899 $499,900 impeccable inside and out. MLS:1412774 $399,900

Belfast Stockton Spring - Ocean

Swan Lake Swanville Lovely Ranch home on 2.5 Acres w/ 515’ shorefront featuring many updates including new kitchen, waterfront deck, flooring, interior painting, paved drive, and more. 1500 sq. ft on one floor. Expansion possible to full 2nd floor; double lot! BELFAST MLS: 1287308 | $299,900 Contemporary home featuring 3 bedrooms and 2 baths with modern decor throughout. Well-appointed kitchen w/ breakfast bar; open to dining which in turn opens to the rear, private deck. Master En-Suite w/private bath. Attached 2-car garage. Downstairs media room. MLS:1410884 $275,000

BelfastCross Pond, Morrill Penobscot Bay

Belfast Belfast

Beautifully Restored New England Cape on Pitcher Rd in Serenity, andintricate Tranquility on Cross Pond in Morrill… views across Belfast Sea Captain’s has been impeccably Built in 2003, nothing spared here folks! Custom built 3/2 home Peace, features Belfast Commanding Only 2Home milesthat to downtown, this lovely Belfast. Sunny & open 1stevery floor LAKE w/spacious kitchendetails featuring describes thiswood amazing property. Nestled in the middle of a this Contemporary, maintained and home updated. Walking distance to downtown BELFAST SWAN Captivating views from room, wrapthroughout. Lovely floors, Penobscot Bay from has an updated kitchen, fireplace BELFAST granite counter tops, stainless appliancesRoom & top of the line water spacious 5+ easy Acres,access this home none5you willto find. Chef’s Belfast Belfast and alsointoliving, the Belfast Harbor and Rail Trail. around lower level seasonal views and on is likecondo only miles downtown wateropen porch.Walk Most recently Attention Equestrians! Near downtown, home featuresoper8 Spaciousdeck, 4 bedroom 3 bathpatio, homeGreat on Beautiful Swan Lake Beautiful 3 bedroom 2 bathroom only 2 miles to cabinetry. Slider leadsEn-Suite to new deck that wraps around the Trail which kitchen, Living rm & dining featuresfront. gas fireplace; den w/ this 1624Great with entrances ideal as home w/fi replace, Master replace thetoRail leads to the Belfast 2005, sq. ft Room/studio home as aseparate business, locatedroom on U.S. Rt. 1 rooms, spaciousated kitchen w/island, family overlookw/over 700’ shared water frontw/fi to access for&your boating, downtown waterfront! Located within a Built 46 unitincomplex rear overlooking the lovely apple trees & gardens. Living, dinoffice, professional, clinical, spa unit. Formal dining and living woodstove. Wrap-around deck w/hot tub. Master bdrm features jetted tub, family roomenjoyment. on lower level with Waterfront. facing screened porch features access to oceanfront from every 14.46 makes ideal for home office, accounting, ing private acres,this pastures horses. Horse barn w/ swimming and fishing 3 floors of living. Master Water spread over 44 acres with walking paths. Lovely, spacious ing, den &1st bdrm, laundry & full bath all onand 1st floor. 3 deck. rooms, spaciouslegal kitchen with tin ceilings, private bath.SEE! Central Air, full house generator, outdoor shower, walkout to thefloor shore! spacious Must room! City utilities, private development. or medical facility. This is the dream electric & water opens to paddock area. MLS:1401830 on 1st floor. Lovely views. Make this your summer or yeardeck. Master w/private bath. Maintenance-free living rooms & full bath |up. Large 2-story barn ideal for shop/home MLS: 1302727 $349,900 MLS:1295111 Brazilian | $229,900 Enjoy lobster bakes on your own beach! MLS: 1290995 $254,900 home you’ve been searching near|Belfast Proper. $374,900 hardwood decking, dry basement, det. 2-car garage, Only $269,900 round home. MLS:1410836 $394,900 included in price. MLS:1405561 $139,900 MLS: 1283853 |$495,000 $549,900 business. 3 miles to downtown waterfront. $429,900 FULLY FURNISHED HOME. 284’ WATERFRONT

“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” Magalloway RANGELEY LAKE PlT

Niboban Sporting Beautifully CraftedCamps Log-Sided on Legendary Chalet w/3-BR, Rangeley Lake! Cook’sCabin Kitchen, #4 End OpenUnit Floor Abutting Plan. Sited the Woods, on 9 Private Fully Year-Round, Acres w/Deeded Private Access Flag to Stone PondPatio. Brook. Once Fish/Paddle You Arrive, the Magalloway You’ll Never River, Want Umbagog To Leave! Lake, $279,900 Sturtevant Pond. $282,500

Rangeley PLANTATION PlanTaTion RANGELEY

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

GREAT CUTE AS HOME, A BUTTON GREATand LOCATION! Loaded with Lodge North Style Woods SADDLEBACK IS BACK! Rangeley lake waTeR acceSS 3BR Charm, Home 2BRwith Yr-Rd Light Cottage Filled in Great Quiet/Private Room, Professional Location Super On a Clear Mountainside Day You Can Rock SeePond Forever Condo – Rangeley is Ready Lake, for Your Doctor’s Immediate Island, Enjoyment! Sunsets Over Beautifully Bald Mt! 3BR, Kitchen, Close to Town MasterAmenities. Suite. Attached Many Recent 4-Car Garage, Updates, 2BA Chalet3BR, Style2BA Home Unitw/Detached with Sun Filled 2-Car. Floor Snowmobile/ATV Plan, Mt./Saddleback From Your Lake Door, Views. PlusPlus HOLA Rangeley Water Access. Lake Generator, Deck Overlooking ATV/Snowmobile Rangeley Lake/Saddleback from Your Door, AllMton 10 Appointed Resort $295,000 Time Share Week Included. $329,000 Acres. Views. $425,000 $165,000

THE LODGES Saddleback iS back!

Rangeley RANGELEY

(207) 233-8275

caryndreyfuss@morton-furbish.com

MAGALLOWAY PLT QuiMby Pond

2478 Main Street • P.O. Box 1209 Rangeley, Maine 04970 www.realestateinrangeley.com Savor Super the Mountainside PanoramicRock Rangeley PondLake Condo andis Sunset Ready Views for YourFrom Immediate This Gently Enjoyment! Used 4BR, Beautifully 2BA Condo. Appointed Well-Appointed 3BR, 2BA Unit with Tri-Level Sun Filled Unit w/Spacious Floor Plan, Mt/SadOpen Living dlebackSpaces, Lake Views. Easy Sled Plus Trail Rangeley Access, Lake 1-Car Resort Garage, Time Sold ShareFurnished. Week Included. $319,000 $329,000

Neat as a Pin Ranch Style Home w/ w/2BR, 2BR, Comfortable Comfortable Floor Floor Plan, Plan,Covered CoveredCar CarPort, Port,Metal MetalRoof, On-Demand Roof, On-Demand Generator. Generator. RoomyRoomy Farmers Farmers Porch, Porch, Quiet Country Quiet Country Setting,Setting, Close to Close No-Motors to No-Motors QuimbyQuimby Pond. $239,000 Pond. $239,000

170 p o r t l a n d magazine

Beautifully YOUR BASECrafted CAMP for Log-Sided RangeleyChalet Adventures—The w/ 3-BR, Cook’s ‘GREY GHOST’ Kitchen, Open at Quimby Floor Plan. PondSited Camps! on 9Fully Private Yr-Rd Acres 3BR Cottage w/Deeded JustAccess StepstotoPond Shared Brook. 419’ Fish/Paddle Waterfront w/ the Dock. Magalloway Tranquil, No-Motors, River, Umbagog Legendary Lake, Sturtevant Fishing. Rental Pond. $282,500 Potential. $229,000

Homes & Living

Beachside Condo

219 E Grand Avenue, Unit 4D Old Orchard Beach

Real Estate.

It takes patience and experience. www.spragueandcurtis.com Augusta, ME • 207.623.1123

Dreaming of an oceanside home on one of Maine's largest white, sandy beaches? Oceanside at Grand Beach Condominium #4D, completely renovated with fine finishes and high-quality fixtures, awaits your arrival. Access the beach via a gated entry to the in-ground pool patio, and find cottage-style common areas in the secure building, apropos for the Southern Maine Coastal community.

Christina Young, REALTOR® C: 207-749-0664 O: 207-553-7500 cyoung@homesinmaine.com

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n o i t a c Stay inMaine

MENTION TH I S A D FOR 20% OFF Y O U R VACATION RE N TA L

207.596.6295

415 MAIN ST | ROCKLAND, ME 04841

SUMMERMAINE.COM Summerguide 2020 171

Homes & Living Assisting people buy and sell properties in the beautiful Western mountains of Maine since 1985

Enjoy Maine’s Vacation-land!

Beautiful western mountains of Maine. Cape on 80 acres of ﬁelds and forest! Dead end road in Salem Township. Fish Hatchery Rd. Fireplace. 3 bed, 2 baths plus additional large sunroom. Garage and building/ workshop. Fruit trees and berry bushes. $395,000 259 MAIN STREET, KINGFIELD CSMREALESTATE.COM | 207-265-4000

Hospitality For Sale! MID-COAST LUXURY HOTEL Upscale Inn with 24 rooms and suites plus 6 additional suites to be furnished. Restaurant, two function rooms. Stabilized revenues. Priced to sell at $2.990mm.

BEACHFRONT MOTEL Two story beachfront property with spectacular views of the Atlantic and direct access to sandy beaches. 30 rentable rooms and suites plus manager’s apartment.

BANGOR HOTEL Turn-key, updated two story airport hotel with 98 guest rooms and inviting lobby. Amenities include an indoor pool, fitness facility, & business center.

OCEANFRONT HOTEL Beachside Inn with ocean views from every room in main hotel building. Additional freestanding building, 33 units total. Buildable lot for possible expansion.

FULL SERVICE HOTEL Interior corridor hotel with 72 keys, banquet facility, indoor pool, and fitness center. Great curb appeal and high visibility on US Rt 1 —7+ acres.

YORK MICROTEL INN & SUITES Comfortable rooms and suites, a newly remodeled lobby, and a heated indoor pool. Convenient location to highway, beaches, restaurants and area attractions. Sold March 2020.

Please call us for other confidential, off-Market listings. 75 Market ST., Suite 404, Portland, Maine 04101 www.daigleproperties.com l info@daigleproperties.com 172 p o r t l a n d magazine

207-773-4222

Homes & Living

Noyes Real Estate Agency

Serving the Rangeley Region for over 50 years! Summer and Winter – Check our website www.noyesrealty.com for searches and listings in the Rangeley Region.

MLS #1447816Custom Saddleback MLS#130374 built,ispost & BACK! Ski-in/ski-out beam lodge, 154 acres,convenience panoramic views. Off grid condo from Saddleback acin a 2-bedroom with mountain cess road. Low carbon footprint views at the South Branch Town-with all amenities, fireplace, garage, barn, house Condominiums. $179,000 fields, stone walls, pond, trail access, gated. NEW PRICE $990,000

MLS #1416420 home in MLS# 1406039 Log Luxurious home on Wilsons Mills. recreation, Rangeley Lake,All-season in Rangeley PLT. Enjoy all summer and sports! sledding, fly fishing thewinter Magalloway Wonderfully crafted, high end River, hunting, boating on Aziscohos appliances, fireplace, dining room Lake. Lots of room and charm!! overlooking $189,000 the lake, 4 bedrooms, 3 baths, dock, and garage. $695,000

MLS #1442909Gorgeous Lakehousecustom Condo, MLS#1415536 quiet setting, walkentry to downtown home. Views yet & level to Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Rangeley. Beach access on SoapRangestone & granite top-line ley Lake, sled orcounters, ATV from your appliances, hand scraped solid wood door, unfinished basement, flooring, gas fireplace, 3BR, 2.5BA. 3 bedrooms. $255,000 & daylight basement. $669,000

MLS at NiboMLS#1422663 #1319651Serene Threesetting large cabins ban acresRoad. and 2400 on Sporting RangeleyCamps, Lake at45Lyons cabin atonthe lake offers 2 Cabin ft.Main of frontage Rangeley Lake. 2 bath, an open plan #6bedroom, offers 2 bedrooms, dock,floor and one and a large deck. Lovely views, floor living. Excellent rental income. rental history,Association garage, boathouse and Let the Condo do the work. a permanent dock. $575,000 Access 4 seasons of sports. $279,000

MLS #1321996Log Custom-built MLS#1321996 home withlog 2,500 home with 2500 sq ft of livingLake. sq ft. on Mooselookmeguntic Garage, sandy dock, mooring, space right on beach, Mooselookmeguntic sunsets, and porch overlooking the Lake. Sandy, walk-in beach, new water. $565,000 aluminum dock, and mooring. West facing. Decks, screened porch, twocar garage. A must see! $525,000

MLS #1345406 #1439002 Vintage Large contempoRangeley rary England style home facing BaldNew Mt. Rd cottageAwaiting your “MAINE CABIN MASTERS” upSaddleback Mt. Close to Saddleback dates. At the water’s edgecherry on MooseLake. Granite counters, lookmeguntic Lake with completely floors, five bedrooms. Great locarenovated permanent NEW tion for a ski home ordock. sled home. PRICE $429,100 $349,000

MLS Maine MLS##1430533 1413295 Charming Views, Views, farmhouse, completely renovated VIEWS! Custom crafted home at Rangeley West inmountain Oquossoc. Home with spectacular views features granite counters,Hill fineRd on 160 acres on Wheeler workmanship, large deck and patio, in Phillips, close to hiking, skiing, basement ITS access, ATV trails,and anddirect sled trails. In tree $334,000 growth.$379,000

MLS #1417238 Log Private year-round MLS#1365800 chalet nestled chalet with access Quimby Pond on a private cul detosac in Rangeley Highlands 5 acres and frontage and Quimbywith Wilds on Hartland on NileOpen Brook. Access to Sled/ Road. lawn, full foundation, ATV location trails andwith Rangeley quiet nearbyLake. trails!Full foundation and garage. $279,000 $239,000

MLS #1442910Log On home Rangeley Lake! MLS#1415474 in private Renovated main 4 bedrooms, location, views ofhome, Rangeley Lake, access to ATV/sled trails &suite, water access views, sunsets, master porch to Rangeley Lots ofonspaces with and more! AtLake. the water, Greenvale 7Cove—a rooms &boat 1900house sq.ft.with Greatupstairs family home, large garage space for storage, room and a 2-bedroom guest cabin. vehicles, and workshop. $279,000 Rare opportunity!! $579,000

MLS MLS##1406039 1356825 Luxurious, Large home on 44 wonderfully home onin acres, Sandycrafted River frontage Madrid-Phillips, B&B Rangeley Lake, inpotential Rangeley Plt. or hunting-fishing lodge,direct full baseClose to Saddleback, sled trail ment, 3 garages,direct access to 4 access! 4 bedrooms, 3 baths, dock, wheeler trails & Lufkin Pond- great and garage. $649,900 fishing! $239,900

Let us be your buyer broker and find your perfect vacation-recreation home.

2388 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970

207-864-9000 • info@noyesrealty.com • www.noyesrealty.com

www.Morton-Furbish.com James L. Eastlack, Owner Broker 207-864-5777 or 207-670-5058 | JLEastlack@gmail.com

1322 Main Street – BEAVER MTN. LAKE – A parklike setting, extremely private location, 3 beds, 2.5 baths, 596 feet of waterfront, attached garage, detached garage, potential guest cottage. $795,000.

20 Vista Lane – RANGELEY LAKE – A rare offering, the Buena Vista Estate on 567 feet of deep water frontage,53 private acres w/south facing exposure, total privacy, development potential. $2,650,000.

175 Pleasant Island Road – CUPSUPTIC LAKE – Extremely private and west facing waterfront residence on Pleasant Island Peninsula, 3 beds, 3 baths, 260 feet of frontage, large garage. $795,000.

2057 Main Street – COMMERCIAL – The Mountain Star Estate is fully equipped to fulfill all of your wedding and event needs, sleeps up to 36 guests, multiple buildings, all w/Rangeley Lake Views! $840,000. Summerguide 2020 173

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Fiction

The Meta-Memoir of Toby,

the Porcine Sage

Based on The Life and Adventures of Toby, the Sapient Pig; with his opinions on men and manners. Written by himself. by Joan Connor

178 p o r t l a n d magazine

ly bread and drank only water, and my tutelage was entirely due to my benefactor, who adopted me for a small gratuity at The Green Man, the roadside house where I was born. The signboard at the inn read: You may go further and fare worse. And so we fared further together, for better or for worse. My preceptor, like me, was no tosspot, and he placed me in a crate safely behind his coachbox in the gig. For better—our stops along the route were entirely, assiduously devoted to my lessons. He read aloud to me. He instructed me in the alphabet. By three months, I knew my letters; by four I could read reasonably well. For better—until, for worse, a driver, having lost control of his horse, drove us into the ditch.

or worse—we struggled along, shy of funds and short of shelter, but this simply intensified my master’s instruction until we arrived in Essex where, he determined, I should first perform, and where, in the audience, I encountered my first sot. He lurched, he cursed, he hurled aspersions while I spelled out my benefactor’s lessons, until, taking the matter into my own hooves, I spelled out the word, “scoundrel,” and stomped on his foot. Then “miscreant.” “Reprobate.” The throng hooted. The coins silvered. My heckler slunk away. Later my benefactor scratched me behind the ears and murmured, “Rapscallion.” Townspeople sang ballads about me in

the streets and posted odes to me in the papers. At six months of age, I was a success, a player among players. And so we wheeled on to Spring Gardens in London, everywhere the broadsides posted for Toby the Sapient Pig. According to the broadsides tacked up by the printer’s devil, I was a sensation. A phenomenon. A seer. The greatest curiosity of the day. Philosopher of the swinish race. Royalty in a shower of shillings. I was also a striped pig. Who could have foreseen this as my legacy? I could. As I said earlier, I am clairvoyant. Although I am a player, my stripes are not greasepaint. The rummies paid six cents to see painted pigs in a tent. Fraudulent stripes. The purveyors stood them to an intemperate glass. A sounder of older swillers of pig slops. A passel of hecklers. So, reader, who wears the snout? Who really wallows in debauchery? Blame not the pig. “A sow, after washing itself, wallows in the mud.” (2 Peter 2:22) As does a man. Death rides a striped pig, swiping with his scythe. Whose hoofs really desecrate the Bible with their press? The skeleton faring further, faring worse and not on an ashen horse. “Our path emerges for a while, then closes/ Within a dream.”—Ernest Dowson With all the players on the road, what differentiates my show, you ask. Toby speaks. While death runs roughshod over you, Toby runs eternal. Throw me a coin. Your path becomes an arc, becomes a circle. The skeleton rides bareback. n In temperance reform, the pig represented drinking men. A cartoon by Charles Jewett, published in 1839, featured Death as a skeleton riding a striped pig. Joan Connor is a professor at Ohio University and is one of the founding mentors of Stonecoast’s MFA program. She lived as a child in Springvale and Alfred and summered for years as an adult on Chebeague Island. Her short story collection, History Lessons, won the AWP award.

American Antiquarian Society

come from a long line of learned pigs, itinerant hucksters and buskers, but not all as literate as I. My ungulate forebears may have been practicing a rote ruse as they did arithmetic and selected letters to spell out words for crowds of cointhrowers, coached by their owners. So, Peter, what is that animal? C—O—W. The pig pulls the cards. And two plus five, Peter? The pig pulls the seven card. A novelty but not knowledge. As William Cowper wrote: For lo, a learned hog is come/And wisdom grunts at Charing Cross. Transmigratus, an officer in the Royal Navy, even posited that these performing pigs were incarnations in a spiraling series of former lives. Sties of oinking avatars. But I was the first of my drift to write with erudition and a quill pen, not an easy tool to wield with a hoof, even one with two toes. Then how came I by this proclivity, you may inquire? Some proposed it derived from the distaff side. My mother, Bess, was something of a strumpet sow, I sadly confess. She abandoned my father, a rover himself, and me when I was a mere shoat. But it was rumored that she gamboled about a gentleman’s garden, swine and roses, trotted through the open French doors, and ingested the pages of his entire library, hence my literacy. Apocryphal tittle-tattle, I suspect. My literacy may be magical like my propensity for prophecy, my second sight. I was born prescient as surely as I was born striped on April Fool’s Day, 1816. Yes, I was born on the day that people go hunting the gowk, but I am no fool, rather the anti-fool. My name is Toby, but not after Sir Toby Belch. My Christian name is Tobias, meaning God is good. I answer to my sobriquet, Toby, but no one could ever dispute the meaning of my given name, although it was my master’s conceit that it derived from Hamlet’s soliloquy: To Be, or not To Be. I ate no books and unlike Sir Toby, drank neither mead nor porter. I ate on-

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