Portland Monthly Magazine Winterguide 2021 by portlandmonthlymagazine

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Winterguide

M a i n e ’ s

61 19 clockwise from left: file photo; courtesy the knowles co.; courtesy sugarloaf; marcy pluznick-Marrin

6 From the Editor

“Just You, Just Maine” Jazz great Dave Brubeck hit the right notes on the coast of Maine. By Colin W. Sargent

HOMES & DESIGN 19 The View from the Top

MAINE LIFE

Maine waterfront real estate is in extreme demand from buyers worldwide. On the high end, which houses are getting attention and why? By Colin W. Sargent

11 Chowder

27 Real Steals

8 Letters

A tasty blend of the Fabulous, the Eyebrow-Raising, and the Just Plain Wrong.

13 Ski Guide

Snow sports and ski resorts statewide.

A waterfront house for a price this low? Get out of town! By Alexis Wells

31 Dividing the Heart

Some say the Franklin Arterial

Everywhere you turn, Portland’s streets sparkle—with celebrity. From Staff & Wire Reports

“Time’s Pocket” The Footbridge House in Boothbay (see this issue’s cover) would have whispered to Graham Greene. By Colin W. Sargent

53 Highlights of Our Tour

66 Maine Real Estate

51 Star Map

They’re in plain sight, but we can’t see them. Meet the ghosts of Charlie Chan, Phyllis Thaxter, Axis Sally, Erskine Caldwell, John Brown Russwurm, and Ellen Harmon Gould White—and get to know them where they live.   From Staff & Wire Reports

FOOD & DRINK 34 Tasty Times

Seasonal surprises drive our cravings in the new year.

60 Dining Guide “I’ve Just Met a Restaurant Named Maria’s” By Colin W. Sargent

Winter’s excellent events!

38 Unchained Melodies

LAST WORDS

We all share shelter-in-place fatigue. Here’s how to bust loose from the bleak. By Evelyn Waugh

Cover: The Footbridge House in Boothbay Harbor by Lois A. Glaser.

62 Talking Walls

61 Restaurant Review

17 What’s Playing

39 Maine Wedding Planning Guide

tore us in two. By Craig Lorimer

72 The Islander

New fiction by Katherine Cart

19 Winterguide 2021 5

Editorial Colin W. Sargent, Editor & Publisher

Just You, Just Maine

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6 p o r t l a n d magazine

s a perennial summer visitor to the Black Point Inn, Dave Brubeck was a “must” interview for Portland Monthly. So many people slip up here in secret. He was so inspired by his stays in Maine that his Grammy-winning Just You, Just Me album riffs on candlelit hotel lobby music he heard in the Black Point Inn–reinterpreted with a scary, postmodern edge. The two Adirondack chairs in the cover photo for Just You, Just Me appear in silhouette on the grounds of the Black Point Inn. “I could see them from my window. While I worked on my music, they came alive.” Brubeck is gone now, but his music transcends time. Pull up an Adirondack chair beside me. Cooped up during COVID, we’ll feel the shiver of a Scarborough breeze pass through the speaker. Listen. www.amazon.com/Just-You-Me-Dave-Brubeck/dp/B000003D4P During the interview, Brubeck mentioned he’d gone whale watching while up here. At first I was nonplussed. Anybody can do that. But here’s how a jazz great does it: “A whale came right up to our very small boat, almost like it was looking at us, and dove right under. You could hear him.” We already know this is going to be a sensational year. Let’s add a sense. Let’s listen.

E x t r ao r d i n a r y P e r sp e c t i v e

Portland

Maine’s City Magazine

165 State Street, Portland, Maine 04101 Phone: (207) 775-0101 www.portlandmagazine.com www.portlandmonthly.com

Colin W. Sargent Founding Editor & Publisher editor@portlandmonthly.com Art & Production Nancy Sargent Art Director Jesse Stenbak Associate Publisher staff@portlandmonthly.com Meaghan Maurice Bailey Design Director meaghan@portlandmonthly.com Advertising Nicole Barna Advertising Director nicole@portlandmonthly.com Per Lofving Advertising Executive per@portlandmonthly.com editorial Sofia Voltin Assistant Editor sofia@portlandmonthly.com Gwen Thompson Copy Editor gwen@portlandmonthly.com Evelyn Waugh Editor & Publisher’s Assistant evelyn@portlandmonthly.com Colin S. Sargent Special Features & Archives Experience Events Portal: portlandmonthly.com/portmag/submit-an-event/ accounting Jennifer Lord Controller jennifer@portlandmonthly.com Interns Andrew Simons, Alexis Wells subscriptions To subscribe please send your address and a check for $35* (1 yr.), $58* (2 yrs.), or $68* (3 yrs.) to Portland Magazine,165 State Street Portland, ME 04101 *Add 5.5% if mailed to a Maine address. or subscribe online at www.portlandmagazine.com

Readers & Advertisers

The opinions given in this magazine are those of Portland Magazine writers. No establishment is ever covered in this magazine because it has advertised, and no payment ever influences our stories and reviews. Portland Magazine, a.k.a. Portland Monthly Magazine, is published by Sargent Publishing, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. Advertising Office: 165 State Street, Portland, ME 04101. (207) 775-0101. Repeat Internet rights are understood to be purchased with all stories and artwork. For questions regarding advertising invoicing and payments, call Jennifer Lord. Newsstand Cover Date: Winterguide 2021, published in January 2021, Vol. 35, No. 10, copyright 2021. Portland Magazine is mailed at third-class mail rates in Portland, ME 04101 (ISSN: 1073-1857). Opinions expressed in articles are those of authors and do not represent editorial positions of Portland Magazine. Letters to the editor are welcome and will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to Portland Magazine’s unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Responsible only for that portion of any advertisement which is printed incorrectly. Advertisers are responsible for copyrights of materials they submit. Nothing in this issue may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publishers. Submissions welcome, but we take no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All photography has been enhanced for your enjoyment. Portland Magazine is proudly printed in the USA by Cummings Printing. Portland Magazine is the winner of 75 American Graphic Design Awards presented by Graphic Design USA for excellence in publication design. In 2018, the magazine won two National Association of Real Estate Editors medals for editorial excellence.

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But did you read it? I’m happy you featured the Passamaquoddy in “Emotional Rescue” [October 2020], but they’re not exactly at the forefront. They definitely deserved editor Colin Sargent’s letter during Indigenous Peoples’ Day. Not “Goodbye, Columbus” [October 2020], which focuses on the oppressor. Dog statues have merit, but you skirted Indigenous Peoples’ Day. Tammy Lane, via our website

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BEACHFRONT MOTEL Two story, beachfront property with spectacular views of the Atlantic and direct access to sandy beaches. 30 rooms and suites plus manager’s apartment. 3.5mm

BANGOR HOTEL Turn-key, updated two story, airport hotel with 98 guest rooms and inviting lobby. Amenities include an indoor pool, fitness facility, & business center.

OCEANFRONT HOTEL Beachside Inn with ocean views from every room. Additional freestanding building, 33 units total. Buildable lot for possible expansion.

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H E A T M I Z E R . B I Z

Wicked Cool! Did you know a Mainer wrote the screenplay for Cool Runnings, Disney’s blockbuster about the Jamaican Olympic bobsled team? “I’d love to talk to anyone in Portland–I love Portland!” Lynn Siefert says. That’s because the movie of her own career begins right here, where she co-founded the Maine Writers and Publishers Alliance in 1975. www.mainewriters.org/about

Covid Covered

Portland Monthly took home two prizes for innovative cover designs from the 2020 American Graphic Design Awards. “The Winterguide 2020 cover foreshadowed the tumultuous year we didn’t know was ahead in a way that’s startling to look back at now. Our September 2020 issue focused on the arts community following CDC guidelines,” says design director Meaghan M. Bailey.

If you think you’ve been seeing more seals lately, you have. “An aerial survey taken in the ‘60s found less than 5,000 harbor seals on the New England Coast,” says Belinda Bracket of the New England Aquarium. “The most recent survey found an estimated 100,000 seals,” thanks largely to the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972.

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Clockwise from top left: courtesy FOKO; file photo; etsy; wildrepublic.com; walt disney

FOKO (Friends of the Kotzschmar Organ) takes piped-in music literally, shaking up the Saco Drive-In with the 7,101 pipes of Merrill Auditorium’s Mighty Kotzschmar supplying a spooky soundtrack to The Hunchback of Notre Dame as improvised and recorded by Portland Municipal Organist James Kennerley.

Oyster love is surging “in response to the pandemic,” says Maine Aquaculture Association’s Afton Hupper. Riding this wave, the MAA has revamped the Maine Oyster Trail and will be “launching a digital passport of oyster farms, shucking events at breweries, raw bars—all sorts of oyster-focused experiences” in 2021. @maineoystertrail on Instagram. Winterguide 2021 11

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Winterguide

Explore Sugarloaf’s lesser-known Burnt Mountain: 100 acres and 1,500 vertical feet of powderfilled paradise. Going up is almost as cool as going down in a passenger Sno-Cat.

Winter Events

Moosehead Lake Region Sno-Fest, Green-

ville. Ice Fishing Derby, Jan. 29-31; Wilderness Sled Dog Race, Feb. 6. 695-2702.

Nonstop Nordic. Race

series for all ages and abilities held at Riverside Golf Course, Portland, Jan. 10; Pineland Farms, New Gloucester, Jan. 16 & Feb. 13; Libby Hill Forest Trails, Gray, Jan. 30 & Mar. 7; and location TBD, Feb. 27. nonstopnordic.com.

Spring Fling at Shawnee Peak, Bridgton, Mar. 23.

Slush Cup, live music, outdoor beer garden, and BBQ lunch. 647-8444.

courtesy Sugarloaf

U.S. National Toboggan Championships, Camden

Snowbowl, Feb. 5-7. Spirited competition with food and outdoor fun. 236-3438

Wooden Ski Day, Bethel,

Jan. 24. Ski on your wooden skis for a free trail pass. Free waxing demo and assistance from Green Ice Wax Co. 824-3880.

Women’s XC Ski Day, Inland

Woods + Trails, Bethel. Feb. 21. Women’s skiing, lunch, raffle, and ski clinics with women instructors. Capped at 30. 824-6276

Ski Guide

Baker Mountain Ski Area, Moscow.

5 trails, 460' vertical drop, T-bar lift, and night skiing. Nonprofit and volunteer-run. 717-0404, skimaine.com.

Bigrock Mountain, Mars Hill. A 980' vertical drop, 35 trails, 3 chairlifts, handle tow, downhill and cross-country skiing, snowshoe trails, night skiing, snow school, snowtube park, and terrain park, with 65% snowmaking. 4256711, bigrockmaine.com. Big Squaw Mountain, Greenville. A 660' vertical

drop, 13 trails, and 10 km of cross-country trails. Backcountry skiing and cat skiing when conditions allow. Ski and snowboard rental shop, deli with beer and wine, live music on Sundays. 6952400, skibigsquaw.com.

Black Mountain, Rumford.

A 1,380' vertical drop, 50 trails and glades, 2 chairlifts, T-bar lift, night skiing, crosscountry skiing, back-country skiing, tubing park, and ski school, with 70% snowmaking. 364-8977, skiblackmountain.org.

Camden Snow Bowl. An

850' vertical drop, 20 trails, 11 glades, 2 chairlifts, carpet lift, rental shop, 400' toboggan chute, 4 km of Nordic trails, snowshoeing, night skiing, ski and snowboard school, and 2 terrain parks, with 80% snowmaking. Only ski mountain on the East Coast with ocean views. 236-3438, camdensnowbowl.com.

Carter’s XC Ski Center,

Oxford and Bethel. Over 30

miles of trails in Bethel and 10 miles of trails in Oxford. Beginner to advanced trails, snowshoeing, trailside lodging, snack bar, and warming huts. Beautiful views of mountain ranges and rivers. Retail and rental ski shop in Bethel. 8243880, cartersxcski.com.

Fort Kent Mountain Outdoor Center. Over 25

miles of cross-country and snowshoe trails for all skill levels, lodging, night skiing, biathlon facilities, fullservice ski and snowshoe shop. 10thmtskiclub.org.

Four Seasons Trail, Mad-

awaksa. 14 km of Nordic ski trails, kid’s terrain park, sliding hill with ski-through tunnel, 12 km of snowshoe trails, ski and snowshoe rentals, and modern lodge. fourseasonstrail.org.

Harris Farm XC Ski Center, Dayton. 25 miles of

groomed trails for all skill levels, snowshoeing, sledding, fat biking, warming hut, rental shop, ski lessons, and snack bar (weekends only). Dogs allowed on nonholiday weekdays. 4992678, harrisfarm.com. Inland Woods + Trails, Bethel. Over 20 km of trails for novice through advanced skiers, 9 miles of snowshoe and fat-bike trails, equipment rentals, and lessons. Ice-skating and sleigh rides by the Bethel Inn Resort. 15 minutes from Sunday River. 824-6276, woodsandtrails.org/winteractivities/.

Libby Hill Forest Trails, Gray. 9 miles of ski and snowshoe trails. Leashed dogs only on narrow snowshoe trails. libbyhill.org. Lonesome Pine Trails, Fort Kent.

Maine’s northern-

Winterguide 2021 13

Winterguide

RTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A C

most ski resort. A 500' vertical drop, downhill and cross-country skiing, snowboarding, night skiing, rental shop, grinding rail, and half-pipe. 834-5202, lonesomepines.org.

Lost Valley, Auburn. A 240' vertical drop, 30

trails, 2 double chairlifts, night skiing, 2 terrain parks, 600-foot snow-tube park, 9.3 miles of Nordic ski trails, and ski school, with 100% snowmaking. 784-1561, lostvalleyski.com.

Maine Adaptive Sports and Recreation, Newry. Free winter recreation for children and adults with physical disabilities: alpine skiing and snowboarding at Sunday River, Sugarloaf, and Black Mountain of Maine; Nordic skiing and snowshoeing at Bethel Village Trails and Pineland Farms. (800) 639-7770, maineadaptive.org.

One of the Best Selections of Quality Cross-Country Equipment in the Northeast! Off-Grid Trail Side Cabins Over 50km Groomed Trails

Mt. Abram, Greenwood. A 1,150' drop, 36 trails and glades, 450 skiable acres, 4 lifts, snow sports school, and 2 lodges. 875-5000, mtabram.com.

Rentals & Lessons

New England Outdoor Center, Millinocket. 15 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails designed by Olympian John Morton. Ski and snowshoe rentals and lessons available. 800-766-7238, neoc.com.

786 Intervale Road, Bethel, ME 207-824-3880

New Hermon Mountain. A 350' vertical drop,

www.cartersxcski.com

1,000 VERTICAL FEET & MORE THAN

20 TRAILS & GLADES RENTALS & RETAIL

ALPINE RACING, LESSONS AND NIGHT

SKIING.

60 skiable acres with 20 trails for all skill levels, ski and snowboard lessons, equipment rentals, double chairlift, T-bar, handle tow, night skiing, tubing park, and terrain park with 100% snowmaking. 848-5192, skihermonmountain.com.

Nordic Heritage Center, Presque Isle. 12 miles of cross-country trails, night skiing, warming hut, paved roller-ski loop, terrain park, lodge with sauna, and wax building. Trails free of charge. 762-6972, nordicheritagecenter.org. The Northern Timber Cruisers Snowmobile and Cross-Country Ski Club, Millinocket. 20 miles of groomed trails with views of Mt. Katahdin. Cross-country ski trails with loops up to 9 miles and a warming hut. 723-4329, northerntimbercruisers.com.

Oxbow Beer Garden, Oxford. Free, use-at-

your-own-risk, mixed-use trail network running through fields and forest. Nordic skis, fat bikes, and snowshoes available to rent on site from nonprofit Portland Gear Hub. Restaurant, tap room, and bottle shop/tasting room. 539-5178, oxbowbeer.com/location/oxford/.

Pineland Farms, New Gloucester. Over 18 miles

of Nordic ski trails, ice skating, sledding, and snowshoeing. 688-6599, pinelandfarms.org.

Powderhouse Hill, South Berwick. A 150'

drop, 3 trails, rope tow, and night skiing. 3845858, powderhousehill.com.

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Quarry Road Trails, Waterville. Over 6 miles of Nordic ski terrain, equipment rentals, night skiing, snowshoeing, ski lessons, fat biking, and sledding. 314-0258, quarryroad.org.

Embrace the dark and ski after sunset at Shawnee Peak in Bridgton.

Quoggy Jo Ski Center, Presque Isle. A 215' drop, T-bar, 5 trails, natural half-pipe with grind rails, first-time skier area, lessons, rentals, snowshoeing and fat-bike trails, and Nordic and biathlon center. 764-3248. facebook. com/QuoggyJoSkiCenter.

Rangeley Lakes Trails Center. 30 miles of trails

for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat-tire biking. Rentals, food, and beverages at the lodge. 864-4309, rangeleylakestrailscenter.org. Saddleback Mountain, Rangeley. Back at last with the highest base elevation of any ski area in New England at 2,120', a vertical drop of 2,000', 67 trails, and 3 quad chairlifts on 440 skiable acres with 2 terrain parks and lift access above 4,000'. (866) 918-2225, saddlebackmaine.com.

Seacoast Snow Park, Windham. Groomed 700'-long tubing lanes, carpet lift, and night tubing, with 100% snowmaking. Fire pit and full-service restaurant. 892-5952, seacoastadventure.com. Shawnee Peak, Bridgton. A 1,300' vertical drop, 40 trails, 7 glades, 3 terrain parks, 6 lifts, and night skiing, with 98% snowmaking and views of Mt. Washington. 6478444, shawneepeak.com. Smiling Hill Farm, Westbrook. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on 15 miles of trails, with rentals available. 775-4818, smilinghill.com. Spruce Mountain, Jay. A 300' vertical drop, 11

trails, night skiing, cross-country skiing, 3 rope tows, and ski classes for all ages, with 50% snowmaking. 897-4090, sprucemountain.org.

Sugarloaf, Carrabassett Valley. A 2,820' verti-

cal drop, 162 trails and glades, 4 terrain parks, cross-country skiing, 5 quad (2 high-speed), 5 double, 2 surface, and 1 triple lift, with 95% snowmaking. Zip lines, gym, and anti-gravity complex with skate park and trampolines. 2372000, sugarloaf.com.

courtesy shawnee peak

Sunday River, Bethel. A 2,340' vertical drop,

135 trails and glades, and 18 lifts: 1 high-speed chondola, 9 quads, 3 triple, 1 double, and 4 surface lifts, with 95% snowmaking. Night skiing, ice skating, lodges, and 6 terrain parks. 824-5388, sundayriver.com.

Titcomb Mountain, West Farmington. A 350' drop, 16 alpine trails, 2 T-bar lifts, 1 handle tow, 10 miles of groomed cross-country trails, night skiing, and terrain park, with 70% snowmaking. 778-9031, titcombmountain.com.

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16 p o r t l a n d magazine

detail from “Disassociated Owls,” 2020 Oil on canvas 36 x 48 inches, CMCA; courtesy photo

THEATER

Penobscot Theatre Company, Bangor Opera House, 131 Main St. Flyin’ Solo, Jan. 21-Feb. 7; The Tiniest Librarian, Feb. 7-28; White Rabbit Red Rabbit, March 11-April 3. Live streamed. 942-3333.

MUSIC

Aura, 121 Center St. Piff the Magic Dragon, Jan. 16; Beatles 1964, March 13. 772-8274. Frog & Turtle, 3 Bridge St., Westbrook. The Jimmy Macisso Trio, Jan. 28, Feb. 25. 591-4185.

What’s Playing Jonathan’s Ogunquit, 92 Bourne Ln. Dueling Pianos, Jan. 17; The Ultimate Tribute to Rod Stewart, Jan. 23; Don Campbell Band, Feb. 14. 646-4777. Opera House at Boothbay Harbor, 86 Townsend Ave. Tommy Emmanuel, April 17. 633-5159. State Theatre, 609 Congress St. STRFKR, Jan. 24; Walk Off the Earth, Feb. 26; Enter The Haggis, March 5.

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Sq. Untitled, 2020: Art From Maine in A _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Time, Feb. 12-May 31. 775-6148.

Walk Off the Earth Daughtry, April 7. 956-6000.

ART

Center for Maine Contemporary Art, 21 Winter St., Rockland. [ON] now Exhibition | Shelter (Earth, House, Body, Spirit), juried online exhibition through Feb. 21; 2020 Biennial, through May 2. 701-5005. Creative Portland, 84 Free St. 2020 Vision: Past, Present, & Future, virtual exhibition through April 15. 370-4784.

Disassociated Owls by Jeane Cohen. Part of a juried online exhibition through February 21 at Center for Maine Contemporary Art.

Experience

Farnsworth Art Museum, 16 Museum St., Rockland. Transforming the Ordinary:

Women in American Book Cover Design, through March 21; At Home in New England, through March 21. 596-6457. Greenhut Galleries, 146 Middle St. Holiday Show, through Jan. 30. 772-2693. Maine Historical Society, 489 Congress St. State of Mind: Becoming Maine, through Jan. 30. 774-1822. MECA, 522 Congress St. Tory Fair: Portable Window, Jan 15-Feb. 28; Parallax/ Geography, Jan. 15-Feb. 28; 2020 MFA Thesis, March 24-April 30. 699-5025.

Richard Boyd Art Gallery, 15 Epps St., Peaks Island. Holiday Offerings, through Jan. 31; A Group Exhibit of Visual Arts, through Feb. 28; A Walk in the Woods, through March 28. 712-1097. University of Maine Museum of Art, 40 Harlow St., Bangor. Domesticated: Amy Stein, Jan. 15-May 1; A Vision Accomplished: Thomas Cornell, Jan. 15-May 1; Living Windows: An immersive media installation by Gene A. Felice II & Kimathi Moore, Jan. 15-May 1. 581-3300. University of New England Museum of Art, 716 Stevens Ave. Speculative Histories & Material Culture, Feb. 19-June 13. 221-4499.

M. Bourke

Holiday Show

Objects/Objectivity Feb. 4 - 27

Dec. 3 - Jan. 30

O. Solmitz R. Germon

S. Barnes

(207) 772-2693 • 146 Middle St., Portland, ME • info@greenhutgalleries.com • greenhutgalleries.com Winterguide 2021 17

SHOP • DESIGN • LIVE

51 Western Avenue, Kennebunk | 207.967.4110 H U R L B U T T D E S I G N S .CO M

r e a l estate

The View from the Top Because of COVID, Maine’s real estate universe is being reinvented in 2021. These three estates offer shelter from the storm. By Colin w. sargent

Flying High marcy pluznick-marrin; Courtesy keller williams

”Jewel of Grand Beach,” $3.825M

“U

p until now, the record price for a house in Old Orchard Beach has been $1.3M,” says listing agent Calvin Shelley. But the “Jewel of Grand Beach” at 211 East Grand Avenue will change all that. It’s listed for $3.825M. Featuring an in-ground heated swimming pool, AstroTurf tennis court, elevator, and central air, “the house has been in my client’s family for 45 years.” Selma Ruth Pluznick was the widow of the late magazine publisher Oscar Pluznick, a partner in Larkin-Pluznick-Larkin Publications, whose fashion trade glossies included New England Fashion Retailer, Teens & Boys,

and Kid Fashions. Selma, 90, passed away in April in Delray Beach, Florida, leaving the estate to her son Michael Pluznick and daughter Marcy Pluznick-Marrin. Selma, who loved to paint, lived in Old Orchard Beach five months a year. “There’s been a lot of work done here,” Shelley says. “The garage and studio [remote office, anyone?] are comparatively new.” The breakout advantage of this 6-bedroom, 7-bath, 8,800-square-foot belvedere built in 1900? “On the third story, where there are two bedrooms, a full bath, and a billiard room, you can really see up and down the seven miles of the beach.” It’s a jumping-off point for dreams. In 1927, Charles Lindbergh landed the Spirit

of St. Louis right in front of 211 East Grand Avenue when he visited Maine to celebrate his transatlantic solo flight. “Just about every room has a view of the ocean. There’s a three-season porch that almost wraps around the whole house. Some of the previous owners used it to play croquet!” Shelley says. “My favorite spot? I have two: the front porch facing the ocean and the third-floor game room with ridiculous views of the ocean. The entire room is very high-grade pine—no knots!” Taxes are $38,462. Winterguide 2021 19

real estate

Cow Cove includes eight bedrooms, a secluded guest cottage overlooking the inner harbor, a carriage house with attached storage barn, and 1,480 feet of Northeast Harbor waterfront. 20 p o r t l a n d magazine

Family treasure “Cow Cove,” $8.3M

photos courtesy the knowles co.

any of the great mansions of Northeast Harbor are about roaring plenitude, but some achieve a sweetness too. “Cow Cove,” designed in 1904 by Peabody & Stearns, is one such estate. Seller Mia Thompson says, “My great-uncle, Dr. Dick Harte, and my great-aunt Mabel owned ‘Cow Cove’ before we did. My grandmother, Dick’s sister, decided to sell ‘High Woods,’ another Peabody & Stearns house, and we moved in. I was six or seven. I love it because I love the water, and it has its own dock.” Her family has treasured this property at 79 Peabody Drive for over 45 years. What will a seven-year-old never forget about this house? Where are the dear places? “The dining room table.” Imagine watching the white-painted oak extend forever, nearly stretching across the Atlantic Ocean. “The porch in the Little House, where you’re in another world.” In this two-bedroom guest house, you can curl up and slip into your favorite fantasy. “Then there’s the barn [the two-bedroom Carriage House has an adjacent storage barn], where I used to paint my Mercury.” A Mercury…space capsule? It’s more cinematic than that. Her Mercury is Hull No. 1 of the Cape Cod Mercury 15 sailboat designed in 1940 by Sparkman & Stephens. “Her name is Eve. We got her from my great-uncle Dick. I’m a sailor. I’m a racer. I had to make sure her bottom was clean and fast. The bottom paint was copper-based, so I had to use steel wool.” Cape Cod Mercury daysailers are a famous class in

Northeast Harbor. They’re 15 feet long, gamine—an Edward Hopper painting with a jib. Racing in lovely circles, the rare boats create a magic fairy ring that helps the residents suspend time up here. Cow Cove is a striking example of tangibles that convey the intangible. Visitors catch their breath when they take in the water views from nineteen rooms of the main house. Enormous granite fireplaces, curved window seats, a massive staircase, a kitchen with original butler’s pantry—it’s casual luxury on a grand scale. Everyone in Northeast Harbor navigates by this house with its mesmerizing white chimneys capped in black. Taxes are $32,792.

Winterguide 2021 21

Something new is always brewing around here. ... like this kitchen design, for which we combined a completely custom look with storage for k-cups and coffee accessories, and added a whimsical touch: a drawer with stylish leather pulls that moonlights as a serving tray. With our unique blend of in-house professional design and a full millwork shop, M.R. Brewer is the place to go for truly custom cabinetry of the highest quality. Learn more and view our latest work at mrbrewer.com.

R e a l estate r Estate

courtesy the knowles co.

Victorian Beauty

”Greenlawn,” $4.25M

esigned in 1887 by Boston architects Rotch & Tilden, the Bar Harbor mansion “Greenlawn” at 123 West Street was built for Massachusetts shoe magnate William Rice. In 1896, Mr. and Mrs. William Lawrence Green bought it and spent their final years here. Flash forward to July 3, 1910 in the New York

M S D C

Every home tells a story about the people who live there. Let us tell yours. MAINE STREET DESIGN CO. Full Service Interior Design Studio 160 Front Street Bath, Maine 04530

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mainestreetdesign.com 207.541.9187

Winterguide 2021 23

Real Estate

isting agents Tricia Blythe and Jamie O’Keefe of the Knowles Co. understand that a glimmering past shines through a house like this, along with the carefully restored silk wallpaper on some of the walls that overheard the whispers here. “It was built as a summer home. It wasn’t built as a museum piece,” Blythe says. “But with curatorial care, the sellers have protected Greenlawn’s historical details while updating it into a place a family will love in 2021.” Which may be soon-

Left to right: Princess Anita de Braganza, née Anita Rhinelander Stewart; William Rhinelander Stewart Jr. with Elsa Maxwell and Cole Porter. Greenlawn includes six bedrooms en suite, a onebedroom guest apartment, nine fireplaces, and 130 feet of waterfront on Frenchman Bay.

er rather than later. “A person from Florida who has sailed in the Bar Harbor area saw it online,” O’Keefe says, “and his offer has been accepted by the seller.” Asked if the buyer came to Maine to see it in person, the brokers say, “We’re not at liberty to discuss that.” Which connects Greenlawn to a bigger story. “We’ve seen real estate in Maine on fire this year,” O’Keefe says. “People have always liked Maine—now it’s on the top of people’s wish list, where they can escape to year-round retreats with high-

speed internet.” Can relics like Greenlawn spin the lazy susan to a new way of life? “We’re getting people from all over the country. They can work remotely, bring their families,” Blythe says. n Taxes are $26,177.

Louise Bourne, Cloud Shadows on Acadia - Early June, oil on canvas, 36” x 72”

1 Old Firehouse Lane Northeast Harbor, Maine 207.276.3001 24 p o r t l a n d magazine

artemisgalleryme.com

courtesy the knowles co.

Times society pages: “William Rhinelander Stewart of New York will spend the Summer at Greenlawn.” (In Bar Harbor, you capitalize Summer!) If you Google the banker-philanthropist, oceans of parties surface on the internet. His son, William Jr., was a friend of Cole Porter, and his daughter, Anita Rhinelander Stewart, was a radiant influencer who became an American princess when she married Prince Miguel de Braganza, whose grandfather was King Miguel I of Portugal.

SELLERS OF LUXURY COASTAL HOMES, YOU NOW HAVE ANOTHER OPTION.

WE ARE ENGEL & VÖLKERS. We are excited to annouce Engel & Völkers Casco Bay is now in Portland. Visit us online cascobay.evrealestate.com or at a shop near you and let us help you follow your dream, home. Engel & Völkers Casco Bay 10 Moulton Street•Portland• Maine 04101•+1 207-747-4500 1624 Harpswell Island Road•Orr's Island•Maine 04066•+1 207-833-0500 149 Maine Street•Brunswick•Maine 04011•+1 207-729-5900

©2019 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Each brokerage independently owned and operated. Engel & Völkers and its independent License Partners are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principles of the Fair Housing Act.

I know Mom is feeling secure, informed, and well nourished both physically, mentally, and emotionally as her voice is upbeat and her spirits are high during every contact I’ve had with her. I know that you make life easier for my dad, and my family too, knowing that Mom is content and thriving under your care during this challenging time. —Carol Ryan Ertz, Family Member

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207-797-7710 | www.parkdanforth.com 26 p o r t l a n d magazine

r e a l estate

$250,000

9 Store Point Road, Swans Island

Real Steals This year, dare to buy that waterfront house you’ve been dreaming of. We can’t guarantee the WiFi, but the views are broadband. B y A l e x i s Wells

Swan’s Way

250,000 9 Store Point Road, Swan’s Island f island living still isn’t enough ocean for you, try planting yourself on a peninsula of an island. Sandwiched between Burnt Coat Harbor on one side and salt water Mill Pond on the other, you’re “surrounded by water from every window of this charming home in need of TLC,” says realtor Christal Applin. Boasting views of the Burnt Coat Harbor lighthouse, this two-bedroom cottage built in 1930 takes you back in time to Grandma’s house with its tiled kitchen and cabbagerose wallpaper running up the eaves of cozy bedrooms. Make your getaway via Maine State Ferry Service car and passenger ferry from Bass Harbor (40 minutes). Taxes are $3,395.

photos Courtesy acadia realty

$249,000 145 Minturn Rd, Swans Island

Whole Kit & Caboodle

$249,000 145 Minturn Road, Swan’s Island Just up the harbor is this rustic one-bedroom camp built from a Sears kit in the 1960s. Nestled among evergreens with 550 feet of shoreline, the front porch of this secluded refuge commands “the length of

Burnt Coat Harbor toward the working waterfront from enough of a distance that the boats and wharves are in your sightline but you aren’t a part of the activity,” Applin says. Inside, the granite fireplace with its fairy-tale fieldstone chimney keeps the chill off those long summer evenings. Taxes are $3,880. Winterguide 2021 27

We Are So Happy Mom is Thriving.” “

“As Mom aged, we thought it best if she stayed in her house, but even with hours of care, expensive home Mom wasn’t thriving. She needed more. She especially needed more socialization — not isolation; and reliable access to care when she needed it. So she made the move to Scarborough Terrace. She truly loves her elegant new home! Life is more complete in a community with lots of friends and activities, chef-prepared meals, daily care, medication management, and even transportation to appointments and outings. I know Mom is happier and more relaxed now... and I am too. We only wish she’d moved sooner.” • Award-winning • Family-owned • Long-tenured management • Physical, occupational and speech therapies available in-house by Coastal Rehab • University of New England MatureCare MD’s & NP’s available • Studios and apartments • Superb life enrichment programs • Chef-prepared dining • Transportation • 24-Hour Care/Assistance • Medication Management Call Lori today. (207) 885-5568 • Memory Care & Respite Care ScarboroughTerrace.com 600 Commerce Dr | Scarborough, ME 04074 28 p o r t l a n d magazine

PORTLAND

WESTBROOK

(207) 774-5946 harmonsbartons.com 584 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

R e a l Estate

courtesy milbridge maine historical society

$159,000 70 Main St, Milbridge

Painted Lady

$159,000 70 Main Street, Milbridge f you’ve ever dreamed of running a bed and breakfast, this five-bedroom 1893 Queen Anne Victorian fixer-upper is ready to be restored to her original glory. “The property is 300-400 feet from the water, with spectacular views of the working harbor. There are a lot of birds and beautiful sea life, and there’s a park [Milbridge Commons] right behind the house,” says realtor Lisa Smith.

In 2009 Frances Gangitano bought the house in hopes of turning it into a bed and breakfast serving guests homemade Italian meals. But her Disney princess color scheme did not go down well with the locals. “When I bought the house it was a green color, and I hate green. So I played off of the colors of Cape May, New Jersey—all the colors there are beautiful and vibrant,” Gangitano says. “The whole town sent me letters about the pink and purple.”

When Gangitano first moved in, she took all the wallpaper down, replaced the roof, and put in a new heating system. “But they gave me such a hard time when I repainted it that I never had the energy to finish it.” Gangitano hopes a knight in shining armor will ride up to rescue her home’s natural beauty. “That’s why I left it just hanging there like that.” n Taxes are $1,749.

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Winterguide 2021 29

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va n i s h i n g Maine

Dividing the Heart City of Portland 1924 Tax evaluation photo

Remembering Franklin Street before the Arterial.

he construction of the Franklin Arterial in the late 1960s helped speed traffic into the heart of Portland from the new Interstate. It also eradicated close-knit neighborhoods of primarily Italian, Lithuanian, and Jewish immigrant families who lived along Franklin Street from I-295 to Commercial Street. Mildred Kaplan Drees, who grew up on the north side of Franklin Street during the 1930s, gives us a glimpse into her old neighborhood before the Arterial sundered it.

By Craig Lori mer

What childhood recollections do you have of the Franklin Street neighborhood?

We lived on the first floor of a two-family home at 146 Franklin Street, about halfway between Commercial Street and Bayside. I loved this red-brick, pointed-roof house where my family froze in the winter and waited for the iceman in the summer. My parents couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford sufficient coal to heat the house, and the winters were very cold in those years. Everybody on the street was in the same situation.

North of Cumberland Avenue was a steep hill. It was perfect in the winter for the kids lucky enough to have a sled, and most of them let the rest of us hang off the back to slide down the hill. In the summer the boys played their ball games in a field called Bayside. The circus planted itself there when it came to town. Beyond our neighborhood candy store was a huge yard adjacent to Mrs. Beareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little house. She had a cow she was forever chasing around the yard for whatever reaWinterguide 2021 31

People from all around the world have immigrated to Maine over the centuries. In the 19th century, most came from Canada and Ireland, but Maine has also seen new residents from Sweden, China, Eastern Europe, Russia, Italy, Finland and Africa.

Today, over 9 percent of Mainers have at least one immigrant parent. More than half are naturalized U.S. citizens and most have pursued education beyond the high school level.

We all come from somewhere...

Hoshea & Sylvia Lifshitz Horodok, Poland Adam Lee’s great grandparents

Abraham & Bella Margolis Vilnius, Lithuania Adam Lee’s grandparents

Joe, Sylvia, Dorothy, Ethel Lifshitz Donatilia & Natalia Eleuterio Azores & New Bedford, MA

Minsk, Belarus & Lewiston, ME Adam Lee’s grandparents and aunts

Diana Lee’s grandmother & mother

Celebrating Maine’s Bicentennial with Mainers from All Over

Va n i s h i n g Maine

Goldie, Nancy, Sidney, Pete

town with my girlfriends on Saturday afternoons. We loved shopping. Walking up and down Congress Street was like going to a mall today. How did you and your family feel about the urban renewal movement?

130 Franklin Street is now part of the Top of the Old Port parking lot, but in the early 1900s Goldie Sulkawitch Davidson raised her three children here and ran it as a rooming house. “My father started shining shoes on the waterfront when he was 8 or 9,” says Goldie’s granddaughter, Nancy Davidson. “In 1914 my grandmother took out a mortgage on her house so that my father, Sidney, and my uncle David could start a small jewelry store.” That little jewelry store became Day’s Jewelers, with 21 stores around New England. Lower right: David Davidson and John Fickett working with a goldsmith.

son, but it was entertainment for my sisters and me.

real estate Images: City of Portland 1924 Tax evaluation photos; family photo by patricia davidson reef; courtesy mildred Drees

Was Franklin Street a close-knit neighborhood?

I knew everybody in the neighborhood. It was largely Jewish, but there were also many Irish Catholics. At the corner of Cumberland Avenue and Franklin Street was Goldie Davidson’s house. Her three sons later started Day’s Jewelers. Nearby was the kindly Mr. Chen, owner of the Chinese laundry. He always came out and gave me a cookie when I walked by.

he people on Franklin Street worked hard for very little money, but it was a bustling community. In the neighborhood was a shoemaker, a barber, and a man who worked for Nissen Baking Company. Several people owned shops: a shoe store on Newbury Street, a large fish market on Fore Street, and Mrs. Kodis’s candy store—the best! My father owned a small corner grocery

in a five-story brick apartment building at 4 Gray Street. Like many people on Franklin Street, we never had a car. He walked to work and sometimes took the trolley, or later the bus. We loved the trolley cars. I can still smell the comfortable straw seats. Was it safe? Crime was often a justification for urban renewal in the 1950s and 1960s.

It was a safe neighborhood in the 1930s. I babysat as far away as Newbury Street and sometimes came home alone at eleven at night. There was never any thought of danger. I’m not saying there wasn’t any crime, but it was minimal. We were told to beware of sailors and not go to the waterfront. Fore Street was never-ever land. I didn’t know anything about the Old Port. All I knew of Commercial Street was the name. For the most part, we never went beyond Lincoln Park. Congress Street was our world. Even after we moved to St. Lawrence Street [in 1939, when Mildred was 12], I walked down-

We were devastated by the loss of Union Station. Otherwise, we paid little attention to the transition. My sister and I often shared sentimental memories of Franklin Street, but we looked forward to living an upper-middle-class lifestyle in nice modern homes with yards. We focused on our new neighborhood on Munjoy Hill and Portland High School. We loved the school and honored our teachers almost to the point of reverence. By the time the Arterial was constructed, we were already spending winters in Florida and were in Portland only during the summer. Regarding Portland in general, we loved it then. I still love it now. n

Mildred

Mildred Drees was born in Portland to Russian immigrants in 1926. Her father, Lewis Kaplan, ran The Goodie Shop for 43 years. Drees attended Westbrook College, Iowa Wesleyan, and the Sorbonne, then taught high school French and English in Freeport, South Portland, and Cape Elizabeth. She lived with her husband Maurice on the Eastern Prom and now resides in Florida.

“Over 100 housing units were torn down—single-family, duplexes, and triplexes—and all those families were displaced.” —Jay Waterman, Director of Real Estate Development at Portland Housing Authority Winterguide 2021 33

Tasty Times january

16 MAINE AGRICULUTRAL TRADE SHOW

may

June and July is peak season for picking strawberries. Find the perfect patch: pickyourown.farm/ farms/maine-me/strawberries.

Blueberries hit the big time with their own emoji! Sprinkle them into text messages as well as over your ice cream or breakfast cereal.

september

COMMON GROUND COUNTRY FAIR Organic farming has

been on parade here since 1977. fair.mofga.org

The Maine Whoopie Pie Festival goes live again to celebrate Maine’s signature dessert. mainewhoopiepiefestival.com

APPLE ORCHARDS OPEN

We love the Maine Pomological Society’s orchard map: maineapples. org/map. Be on the lookout for pumpkins soon after!

october 10 OPEN CREAMERY DAY

A glimpse into—and taste of--the art of cheesemaking. mainecheeseguild.com

courtesy photos

AUGUST: BLUEBERRY PICKING SEASON

34 p o r t l a n d magazine

Wow your significant other! Taste Maine shares recipes from Maine’s top chefs at tastemaine.com. Say thanks with a donation to ReUp ME Restaurant Relief Fund.

27 MAINE WHOOPIE PIE FESTIVAL

FIDDLEHEAD SEASON When the snow these tasty BEGINS melts, little greens unfurl!

TIME FOR STRAWBERRIES

february

14 VALENTINE’S DAY DINNER

The Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry connects farmers and the community virtually this year. maine.gov/dacf.

june

A guide to savoring all four seasons.

h u n gry Ey e

28 MAINE MAPLE SUNDAY

march 1-12 MAINE RESTAURANT WEEK

Everyone’s favorite Sunday at the sugar shack is back! mainemapleproducers.com/ maine-maple-sunday#!directory/map

april

Maine Restaurant Week returns with a focus on curbside pickup. dev.mainerestaurantweek.com.

july

16-18 YARMOUTH CLAM FESTIVAL

Starting in late April, drop by the farmers’ markets in Deering Oaks Park on Mondays and Monument Square on Wednesdays.

august

PORTLAND FARMERS’ MARKETS 4-8 MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL

Binge on clams, lobster, and pies. clamfestival.com

Since 1947, Rockland celebrates the king of shellfish each summer. mainelobsterfestival.com

november A showcase for Maine restaurateurs, vintners, brewers, and distillers. Tickets: harvestontheharbor.com.

20-21 MAINE HARVEST FESTIVAL

4-7 HARVEST ON THE HARBOR

Farmers, foodies, artists, and crafters converge in Bangor. maineharvestfestival.com

december

SCALLOP SEASON RETURNS

With December cold comes scallop season. Get ‘em local and fresh! Winterguide 2021 35

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Celebratio n s

Unchained Melodies Here are five ways to stir-craze safely—including getting married! Because love still conquers all, even at a time like this.

Do Attempt This at Home hat better way to burst out of quarantine mundanity and cold, dreary nights than burlesque? We miss our weekly winter VoulezVous hunker-downs at the House of Music, but we love the sizzle of burlesque right in our living room, or kitchen, or bedroom. “There’s nothing sexier than masked burlesque,” says Melissa “MissE” Cloutier, owner and founder of Red Hot and Ladylike dance studio and long-time Portland performer. “Our regulars call it their savior, their outlet. We dance masked, sanitized, with an air purifier running. Our classes are now livestreamed over Zoom, so we have people from all over—Colorado, North Carolina—tuning in. Zoom isn’t the same. But there are people who truly, truly look forward to it. Burlesque isn’t just about stripping off your clothes. It’s about loving yourself, loving your body, smiling, dancing, faking, laughing.” Virtual classes are $10. Recommended attire: fishnets, sports bras, fringe, booty shorts, boas. “Movement is indeed medicine and so is laughter, and we have an abundance of both,” says Stephanie Harmon, owner of Hustle and Flow, Brackett Street’s eclectic movement studio. “Zoom has given people the ability to take classes in total pri-

38 p o r t l a n d magazine

vacy. There’s still a feeling of community and togetherness, but if you want to shut your video off and not worry about feeling shy, but you still want to move a little, it’s great. Hustle Heels, taught by Alyx Hannigan, is thriving online. Pole classes, taught by Heather Damon, are all in-studio, since most of our students don’t have poles at home. We have 5 poles all spaced more than 6 feet apart, and each student gets their own pole during class. It’s a place and time to get away to exercise and dance and connect on an even deeper level.” Drop-in rate for classes is $16. Horse Whispering iffany Payton, owner of Carousel Horse Farm, says that COVID is bringing people back into nature. “We’ve been booked,” Payton says. “Most years international visitors are a huge chunk of business. This year it’s all Mainers, yet still we’ve seen a third more business than before.” A sunset horse ride for you and your quarantine sweetheart, masked and socially distant, is $200. “Horse sales rocketed this year as well. The appeal is this: it’s something you can stay home and do with your family.” Meris Bickford is the CEO of the Maine State Society for the Protection of Ani-

mals. “We’ve had an increase in adoptions, more than we expected once the pandemic was taking place. Interestingly, that seems to be a trend that has similarly affected dog and cat shelters, causing some speculation that people who are working from home are more available not only to care for animals, but to receive the benefits and comfort of animal ownership. So far in 2020, the MSSPA has adopted nine horses, several of which cannot be ridden.” Linda Andrews, a K-12 Gifted & Talented teacher in Buckfield, has taught public school for 42 years (“Best job in the world!”) and is also a savior of senior horses. She’s had 22 horses in her life, and has most recently adopted Ebony, a black Tennessee Walker, from the MSSPA. “Horses bring me great happiness. I walk out the door and call to them, and they nicker and trot over, and it brings joy. I take the older ones that need a retirement place until their life has ended, ones you can’t ride.” Andrews adopted Ebony in July. “Everybody, especially during COVID, needs to figure out what it is that brings them great happiness. It could be a beagle, it could be houseplants. Everyone has something that’s a source of joy. Find yours.” (Continued on page 59)

Courtesy Melissa Cloutier; hattie mae photo; courtesy linda andrews

B y Evelyn Waugh

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Coolidge Family Farm

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uide g Planning G Maine Weddin

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uide g Planning G Maine Weddin

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R oad T rip

Looking for a Home-School Holiday? Open this phone-friendly voyeur’s map and get out and about!

23. 3.

F rom staff & wire Reports

5. 4.

Back Cove

Eas tern Pr ome nad e

26.

on A

venu

ight

tre

10.

11. 12.

1. Gov. Joshua Chamberlain, General 499 Ocean Avenue 2. Ian Crocker, Olympic Swimmer 40 Tremaine Street

14.

3. Nik Caner-Medley, Hoop Star 73 Alba Street

8. Josephine Peary, Explorer 290 Baxter Boulevard 9. John Ford, Director 21-23 Sheridan Street 10. ADM Robert Peary, Explorer 123 Oxford Street 11. CMDRE Edward Preble, Navy Hero 477 Congress Street 12. Henry W. Longfellow, Poet 489 Congress Street 13. John Neal, Writer 173-175 State Street

7. Anna Kendrick, Actor 50 Craigie Street

r om

24.

22.

19.

6. Andrea Martin, Actor 94 Bay View Drive

est W

5. Linda Lavin, Actor 96 Clinton Street

18.

16.

15.

17.

4. Annie Proulx, Writer 370 Stevens Avenue

13.

Fore River

21.

enad

25.

20.

e 14. Neal Dow, Prohibitionist 714 Congress Street

15. Augusta Hunt, Suffragist 165 State Street 16. Liv Tyler, Actor; Bebe Buell, Musician 34 Park Street 17. Gov. Percival Baxter 19 Pine Street 18. Judd Nelson, Actor 71 Carroll Street 19. Roxanne Quimby, Businesswoman 22 Carroll Street 20. Phyllis Thaxter, Actor 314 Danforth Street

21. Erskine Caldwell, Writer 666 Congress Street 22. Ellen Gould Harmon White, Religious Leader 94 Clark Street 23. John Brown Russwurm, Publisher, Statesman 238 Ocean Avenue 24. Mildred Gillars, Nazi DJ 45 Park Street 25. Sidney Toler, Actor 21 Birch Knolls, Cape Elizabeth 26. Rudy Vallée, Actor 36 Monroe Avenue, Westbrook Winterguide 2021 51

Think outside the box!

@Capshore

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2019

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R oad T rip

Highlights of Our Tour

Hidden Figures, Sacred Spaces. Just look who used to live here! Fr om Staff & Wire Reports

Phyllis Thaxter 314 Danforth Street

file photos

ovie star Phyllis Thaxter (1919-2012) spent her girlhood at 314 Danforth Street in the West End. “We also lived at 17 Storer Street, which became part of Waynflete before it burned to the ground about 10 years ago,” she told us in 1998. “I went to Butler, Waynflete, and Deering High. I’d have graduated with the Class of ’38 had I not gone to Montreal and on to an acting career.” For the daughter of Maine Supreme Court Justice Sidney St. Felix Thaxter and Phyllis Schuyler Thaxter, the 1920s Broadway star for whom South Portland’s Thaxter Theatre (now Portland Players Theater) was originally named, this was probably inevitable. But her first crush was a Maine island less than half a mile from shore. “Summers we lived on Cushing, in a John Calvin Stevens house with a lovely wraparound porch right up on the hill. You can still see it if you’re on a boat coming into port.” Then she fell in love with Hollywood. Her career soared as she starred in films for MGM and later Warner Brothers, including 30 Seconds over Tokyo (1944) with Van Johnson, Spencer Tracy, and Robert Mitchum; Jim Thorpe, All American (1951) with Burt Lancaster; and Springfield Rifle (1952) with Gary Cooper and Lon Chaney,

This November 1963 still from “Nothing Ever Happens in Linvale” on The Alfred Hitchcock Hour shows Thaxter with fellow Mainer Gary Merrill (Falmouth and Cape Elizabeth) during, let’s say, a gardening scene.

Jr. Then, on August 17, 1952, the New York Times reported: “Phyllis Thaxter stricken with polio.” Her Hollywood career stalled with the termination of her studio contract, but a new generation watched her eventual comeback on television in everything from Rawhide to Twilight Zone. If you like film noir, check her out in Bewitched. The movie poster teases, “She lived two amazing lives.” So did the real-life Thaxter, blending charity work for Maine Medical with Hollywood stints that included playing Christopher Reeve’s mom

in Superman. “But my deepest connections are to Maine. My brother, the late Sidney Thaxter, was a partner at Curtis, Thaxter, et al.; my sister Hildegarde (Mrs. William Niss) was married to the late Judge Edward Gignoux; and my nephew, Sidney St. Felix Thaxter—known as Pete—is still [of counsel] there.” Thaxter spent her final days in Falmouth. She never thought it mysterious that in the end she chose a life in Maine over a life of fame. “Mysterious? Then we’re all mysterious, aren’t we?” Winterguide 2021 53

Erskine Caldwell 666 Congress Street

ou probably donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have Georgia on your mind during your desperate morning dash to Coffee by Design. But right here near Longfellow Square is where Erskine Caldwell (1903-1987) wrote Tobacco Road (1932), his gritty novel about Georgia sharecroppers in the depths of the Great Depression. Like Ernest Hemingway, Caldwell was a much-married novelist who for a time (1939-1942) was the husband of a fearless, groundbreaking journalist. Before she became Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first woman war correspondent and the first to shoot photos on the front under fire, Margaret BourkeWhite (below) and her then-husband Caldwell collaborated on You Have Seen Their Faces, a photography book about Depression-era tenant farmers of the American South. But in the 1930s, Caldwell kept a subterranean library and writing studio in the basement of 666 Congress Street (then 668 Congress Street), where he ran Long-

54 p o r t l a n d magazine

file photos

r oad trip

fellow Bookshop with his first wife, Helen, whom he divorced in 1938. As Steve Lutrell reported, “The book shop was not very successful, but the creative bycatch (from 1929-1933 four of Caldwell’s books—The Bastard, Poor Fool, American Earth, and Tobacco Road—would be published in succession) was very successful indeed.” Local tongues wagged when The Bastard was banned by the Portland Police Department for obscenity and they raided the bookshop. Today, “there is more than a bit of irony that the location of Caldwell’s book shop houses an adult movie business that off and on continues to attract the notice of the Portland Police Department. ‘That would have tickled my father,’ Prof. D. Caldwell, a geology professor at Boston University, [told us] upon learning this.” Nevertheless, Tobacco Road made Life Magazine’s list of the top 100 books from 1924 to 1944. And for those who don’t believe in coincidences, Portlander John Ford directed the 1941 film adaptation starring Gene Tierney. None of which rates a mention when latter-day culture vultures enthuse about brewpubs and creative spirits in Portland today. What do you have to do to be a hidden figure in this town? Erskine Caldwell has figured it out. Read our full feature story by Steve Luttrell: www.portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2021/01/erskine-caldwell/

Charlie Chan

21 Birch Knolls, Cape Elizabeth

aybe it isn’t real Chinese. Maybe the film franchise is more “mall Chinese.” It sounds so unlikely that the movie star most famous as Charlie Chan lived in a bungalow at 21 Birch Knolls on the Cape Elizabeth shore. But that’s just the kind of preposterous assertion that makes us love Portland and its legends. Hopefully it’s even more unlikely that a non-Asian actor would be chosen to play the notorious Chinese-American detective today. But vaudeville star Sidney Toler (1874-1947) was the “exotic” figure who commissioned this house to be built—on solid ledge. “Its 23-foot chimney was made entirely from rocks from Casino Beach,” John Fitzgerald, who once owned the house, told Steve Luttrell. “Standing on the front porch, ‘Charlie Chan’ had unobstructed views of both Casino Beach and Ram Island Light.” Thinking of him living here, seeing

what we see, is like having a clerestory window to a larger universe. Some of the bungalow’s owners over the years have known that the actor Sidney Toler used to live here but didn’t know of his most famous role! Of course, more than one actor played Charlie Chan. More than one collie played Lassie. But Sidney Toler starred in Charlie Chan in Honolulu, 1938; Charlie Chan in Reno, 1939; Charlie Chan at Treasure Island, 1939; City in Darkness, 1939; Charlie Chan in Panama, 1940; Charlie Chan’s Murder Cruise, 1940; Charlie Chan at the Wax Museum, 1940; Murder Over New York, 1940; Dead Men Tell, 1941; Charlie Chan in Rio, 1941; Castle in the Desert, 1942; Charlie Chan in the Secret Service, 1944; The Chinese Cat, 1944; Black Magic, 1944; The Jade Mask, 1945; The Scarlet Clue, 1945; The Shanghai Cobra, 1945; The Red Dragon, 1946; Dark Alibi, 1946; Shadows over Chinatown, 1946; Dangerous Money, 1946; and The Trap, 1946. “Before his role as Charlie Chan, Sidney Toler was a leading actor with the Keith’s Stock Company and performed in many plays and melodramas both at the Cape Theatre as well as the Jefferson Theatre in Portland on Free Street. Many famous actors performed at these theaters at that time, including Ethel and John Barrymore. From 1901 through 1910, a total of 7,014 separate dramatic programs were offered to the citizens of Portland and vicinity by the various playhouses.” Read our full feature story by Steve Luttrell: www.portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2021/01/charlie-chan/ Winterguide 2021 55

R oa d t r i p

Axis Sally 45 Park Street

t's not the Victoria Mansion's fault that Nazi propagandist Mildred Gillars (1900-1988)—a.k.a. “Axis Sally”—grew up right across Danforth Street on the corner of Park and Nye. Where did she go wrong? Maybe things fell apart for her when her birth father turned to drink and her mother married to Portland dentist Dr. Robert Bruce Gillars. Or maybe it was her deep itch to be an actress. When she didn’t earn the callbacks she’d hoped for in New York, she headed to the center of the “New Germania,” Berlin, where a hot mike was calling for her.

When Berlin is calling, it pays to listen. When Berlin is calling, it pays to listen in! The sexy voice of the notorious “Axis Sally” would undermine the morale of American soldiers fighting in Europe and North Africa during World War II with hints that their wives and sweethearts were being unfaithful. She even passed herself off as a Red Cross worker in order to record interviews with American POWs in Germany that later got twisted into her broadcasts. The things some people will do for an audience.

56 p o r t l a n d magazine

John Brown Russwurm 238 Ocean Avenue

Cheverus students who admire bold intellectual courage might be surprised to learn that the white clapboard Greek Revival house at 238 Ocean Avenue across the street from their school is the former home of Portlander John Brown Russwurm (1799-1851), an 1826 Bowdoin col-

We wish to plead our own case. Too long

have others spoken for us. Too long has the

public been deceived

by misrepresentations in things which

file photos

concern us dearly. lege grad who was the third African-American in the U.S. to earn a university degree. By 1827 he was well-established in New York City as co-editor, with the militant Presbyterian minister Samuel E. Cornish, of the abolitionist newspaper Freedom’s Journal—the first newspaper in America owned and published by AfricanAmericans. The editorial of the first issue boldly proclaimed “We wish to plead our own case. Too long have others spoken for us. Too long has the public been deceived by misrepresentations in things which concern us dearly.” Russwurm blazed a starry trail in defense of the rights of human beings everywhere. Read our full feature story by Gwen Thompson: www.portlandmonthly.com/portmag/2012/12/russwurm-house/. Winterguide 2021 57

Roa d T r i p

Ellen Gould Harmon White 94 Clark Street

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58 p o r t l a n d magazine

207-865-6254

file photos

“I

started noticing it in the summer of 1990. I didn’t know what was going on,” says Kirk Reynolds, who once lived at 94 Clark Street in Portland. They came from all over, of all nations and creeds. Why were so many people fascinated with this vaguely Victorian building? People stared at it as if its slip were showing; it seemed to glow in the dark. “This went on for well over two years. They’d quietly look through their car windows and stare up and down at the building.” Reynolds finally told Tom, the apartment building’s owner, who was working up on a ladder when another carload wheeled by. In a flash, Tom flew down the rungs. He approached the car with some questions and came back with answers. “This is definitely confirmed,” Reynolds told us in 1994. “They told Tom that 94 Clark is the childhood home of Ellen Gould Harmon White (18271915), one of the founders of the Seventhday Adventist Church.” Chief among White’s early beliefs was “the personal return of Christ on October 22, 1844.” Her health declined a bit when she was confronted with October 23, 1844, but by the following December she’d begun to have visions “accompanied by strange physical phenomena.” She’d stop breathing. She’d make remarkable predictions. “Messages for individuals, churches, and families were imparted to her.” In a life of travel from Washington, D.C., where she set up a national Seventh-day Adventist headquarters; to Australia, where she lived for nine years; to Loma Linda, California, where she was instrumental in founding the College of Medical Evangelists, this locally unheralded Mainer set up an international network of spiritual influence that thrives to this day. Now you know. The house doesn’t actually glow, except in the eyes of the pilgrims who come to visit it. n

C e l e b r ations Unchained Melodies (continued from page 38)

Long-Haul Hiking In April 2021, Mikey Herron, 32, and Chelsey Pany, 30, will take a 2,190-mile walk from Georgia to Maine on the Appalachian Trail. “The trail is everything to us,” Herron says. “We committed to this journey a year ago. It’s the backdrop to each of our days. All money is dedicated to it.” Thru-hikes typically cost hikers around $6,000, covering gear, food, travel to and from trailheads, and the occasional hotel night in town. “We put off buying a home, having a kid, getting married—all to hike. It’s now or never—we’re both in our thirties and ready to settle down, but we have this thing to do first. We’re extremely serious about COVID precautions, and cancelling our hike remains a daunting possibility, but if I make it all five million steps to the end of the trail in Maine, it will hold a place in my heart forever.” Every year, three to four thousand people attempt to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail spanning 14 states. To leave society for five to seven months and live on what one can carry on one’s back is perhaps the most

socially distant of feats. Still, many hikers cancelled their hikes in 2020, per trail organization recommendations in response to the pandemic. Many Mainers prefer simply to hike in our own backyard. “There are so many cool spots right nearby,” says Aaron Rudolph of Portland. “I’ve explored as much of the Presumpscot River as possible, from Sebago Lake to the bridge on Allen Avenue. It’s turned into a project. And recently I’ve done a bunch of bigger hikes like Fat Man’s Misery Trail— a challenge!—on Tumbledown Mountain and Mount Chocorua in New Hampshire.” Others? “Well, some are secret.” wedding part deux ho wouldn’t love two weddings?” Megan McKenna Buttarazzi married Colin Buttarazzi during the late-summer COVID spike. “I fell in love with the Kennebunkport Conservation Trust as a venue. Our ceremony was under this beautiful tree. I wore a dress I bought from Lulus—I’m saving my real wedding dress for a larger wed-

“W

ding in a post-COVID world. I had my hair done by Jenna at Turning Heads Hair Studio, so it felt real. We drank prosecco and beer and ate tacos made by David Angenend of Texas Grace Kitchen. It was safe, serene, intimate, comfortable, and socially distanced. Just us, our immediate family, and three friends, and we ended the night around the fire together—an intimate moment I won’t get at my planned 130-guest, Sunday River, post-COVID wedding.” McKenna is one of many Maine brides who’ve reimagined their big day as an intimate micro-wedding at a meaningful venue with a selective guest list, finding cause for joy in these dark times. Lovely evergreen “We got married in Evergreen Cemetery under the full moon,” Dezirae Smith of Portland says. “Having a COVID wedding there made it so much easier to get away from normal wedding traditions that didn’t work for us. The ceremony was five people: just two witnesses and our officiant. No crowd.” n

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Dining Guide Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate— from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com

Becky’s Diner has been serving comfort food at a reasonable price on Portland’s historic waterfront since 1991. Located at 390 Commercial Street, we offer all-day breakfast, locally sourced seafood, and diner classics such as our Roast Turkey Dinner. Featured on the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives,” come see what all the fuss is about. Becky’s Diner, Nothin Finah! 773-7070.

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6 0 p o r t l and maga z ine

BlueFin North Atlantic Seafood Chef Gil Plaster creates the quintessential Old Port dining experience: classic, contemporary dishes with fresh, locally caught seafood & seasonal ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, or your favorite cocktail in comfortable elegance or out on the patio w/ fire pit. 468 Fore St. 775-9090, bluefinportland.com.

Bull Feeney’s Authentic hearty Irish fare: from-scratch sandwiches, steaks, & seafood. Local craft & premium imported brews. Maine’s most extensive selection of single malt Scotch & Irish whiskeys. Live music 5 nights. Open 7 days, 11:30-1. Kitchen till 10. 375 Fore St. 773-7210, bullfeeneys.com.

Eighteen95 A warm and intimate restaurant w/ a lovely fireplace in the historic Portland Regency Hotel and Spa. Offering Breakfast, Dinner, and Sunday brunch. Specializing in modern American dishes w/ a New England influence. Local seafood, pork, chicken, turkey, with beef & produce from our farm! 774-4200. Flatbread Company Portland Tucked between two wharves with picturesque waterfront views. Family-friendly restaurant w/ signature pizzas, weekly carne & veggie specials. Made w/ local ingredients, baked in wood-fired, clay ovens. Everything’s homemade, organic, and nitrate-free. 24 local drafts & cocktails showcase all-local breweries & distilleries. 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com.

Sea Glass at Inn by the Sea Chef Chadwick’s seasonally sourced, innovative taste of Maine. Spectacular ocean views inside the intimate restaurant or on the decks. Creative vegan dishes w/produce & seafood from local farms & sea. (Wine Spectator “Best of” Award of Excellence) 40 Bowery Beach Rd., Cape Elizabeth. 7993134, innbythesea.com.

Shay’s Pub & Grill Heart of Portland. Local favorite since 2005. Pub fare specialties: sweet & spicy chicken sandwich, fish & chips, seasonal salads. Famous $5 martini menu & daily specials. Outdoor seating. M-Tues. 11:30-9, W-Sat. 11:30-10, Sun. closed. Schedule your private event with us! 18 Monument Sq. 772-2626, shaysgrillpub.com.

Restaurant Review

Scratch-made Nice People Totally Authentic l Feeney’s Bulportland’s pub

courtesy Maria’s

773.7210 375 Fore Street in the old Port Facebook.com/bullFeeneyS @bullFeeneyS

I’ve Just Met a Restaurant Named

Maria’s By Colin W. Sargent

t must be thrilling (and nerve-wracking) to move a restaurant. When Maria’s was established in 1960, La Dolce Vita was being filmed. As the years passed, Maria’s deepened its claim as a romantic mainstay at their Cumberland Avenue location. In 2021, a tumultuous year after their December 2019 move to 1336 Congress Street near Westgate Shopping Center, there’s a burst of increased energy. Portlanders won’t be surprised to find Maria’s among the “50 Best Old-School Italian Restaurants in America” on msn.com. In fact, at 60 years of age, Maria’s is charming in its new location. Especially if you like northern comfort food from Southern Italy. We’re hungry as we drive into the big parking lot to the left of the restaurant. It’s well lit and makes for an easy getaway during curbside pickup. It’s a foregone conclusion that we’re going to tuck into a side of (2) Maria’s homemade meatballs, $3. They’re from a secret recipe that the Napolitano family brought from Naples, but from the taste, it’s a good guess that vitello is one of the ingredients. Delicious. So is the Garlic Bread with Parmesan ($4.95)—a must. We share a traditional Caesar Salad for $7.95, with anchovies, of course. I’ve dined at Maria’s in every de-

cade from the 1980s forward, but I’ve never tried the Sausage Lasagna ($13.95) before. That’s because I’ve often ordered the Lobster Fra Diavolo, the Braised Shank Ossobuco Maiale ($23.95), and the Eggplant Parmigiana (S13.95). Deep and satisfying, the Sausage Lasagna is a winner. Change is good! Next time, I’m going to try the Broccoli and Olive Pie ($13.95). N.B. The generous portions at Maria’s cry out for a second meal. The grand finale: What fun to crunch into cannoli in front of your own fireplace! Share if you dare. n

Winterguide 2021 61

Time’s Pocket Why buy a postcard when you can live in one?

as this picture taken in the 1970s, 1980s, 1990s, or a second ago? The weathered, shingled “Footbridge House” at 53 Bridge Street in Boothbay Harbor is for sale for $495,000. The interior of this one-bedroom, one-bath jewel on America’s longest footbridge is knotty pine, and there’s a hatch in the floor, where you can 6 2 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

by Colin w. Sargent

fish from your kitchen! “It’s near the kitchen table, pretty much under the captain’s chair,” says listing agent Larry Colcord. “There was a rumor it might have been a rumrunner pass-through hatch. The house was built in 1902. The bridge tenders had it built and lived there until 1912—it was a swing bridge, so it needed to be tended—and then they sold it.

Ethel Fowler lived there from 1926 till 1963. After that, a couple bought it. They ran the gift shop and boat excursions. Later on it was an ice-cream shop. In the late 1960s, we used to jump off that bridge. The water was cold, I can tell you that!” Not to worry, you can warm up by the real potbelly stove. The pocket mansion includes a ramp, a

harbor realty - photo by Gloria livingstone (left); pam burke(right)

Talking walls

float, and a wraparound deck. And at $495,000 it’s a bargain. In 2014, it was listed for sale for $775,000. In 2015, it was listed for $695,000 before it was removed from the market a year later. Owners Allan Miller and Pam Burke snapped it up in 2001 for $43,140. “They’ve completely renovated it and lived here for 10 years,” Colcord says.

“They’ve been using it one or two weeks a year. He’s a carpenter and boat builder; she’s a sailboat captain who sails up and down the East Coast.” You don’t just have views of the harbor—you are the harbor. n Taxes are $2,664.

“There was a rumor it might have been a rumrunner pass-through hatch.” —Larry Colcord, listing agent. Winterguide 2021 63

Come walk in the trails of Pondicherry Park, where the world slips away into quiet solitude, where the scent of the winter forest surrounds youâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an escape into peaceful tranquility. Pondicherry Park is a 66-acre wonderland bordering Stephens Brook in the center of downtown Bridgton. We invite you to explore all it has to offer. Bridgton welcomes you. Bridgton, Maineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;No better place to be. Visit bridgtonmaine.org/play

6 4 p o r t l a n d m o n t h ly m a g a z i n e

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WAT E R F O R D : � � �� European-style accommodations & ﬁne dining for over 40 years. This � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �� An outstanding combination of privacy, serenity & simple elegance in the heart of Oxford Hills between Sunday River & Shawnee Peak � � � � �� Pine ﬂoors, screened porches, exposed beams, expanded kitchen and � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �� opportunities for multi-generational living, inn keeping or even your �� $749,000

B R I D G TO N : �� with FHA heat, AC, laminate wood ﬂooring, vinyl siding, private park� � � � � � � � � � � � � � �� $149,000

H I R A M : �� finished. Large country kitchen with newer appliances, working fireplace in living room, large dining area, first floor bedroom, wood floors, three bedrooms up and one on first floor, along with one in � � � � � � � �� for 40 years. 141 acres with fields, woods and plenty of wood for � � � � � � � � � � � �� $585,000

INTRODUCING LAKE FARM ESTATES

� � � �� $225,000 - $549,000.

www.Chalmers-Realty.com • homesales@chalmers-realty.com

Homes & Living Assisting people buy and sell properties in the beautiful Western mountains of Maine since 1985

Enjoy Maine’s Vacation-land! OOfer ings A r r b l ” l A lesmAn “One C nOT A sA l ssiona g A Profe f Choosin ain Out O P he T e We Tak 10-Year Workmanship guarantee

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Beautiful western mountains of Maine. Pond. Cape on 80 acresTownship. Pristine body of water. Hancock Lexington of ﬁelds and forest! end on this .5 acre lot. The pond Dead-end road. 100'Dead of shore road Salem Township. Fish Hatchery Rd. than Fireplace. 3 bed, is 320inacres with a max depth of 100'. Less 30 miles to 2 baths plus additional large and building/ Sugarloaf! Great area to kicksunroom. back and Garage enjoy hiking, workshop. Fruitand trees and berry bushes. $395,000 snowmobiling, certainly fishing! $89,900 259 MAIN Main STREET, Street, KINGFIELD Kingfield CSMREALESTATE.COM | 207-265-4000 CSMrealeState.CoM

66 p o r t l a n d magazine

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Bold Coast Properties CoastalMaineMarvel | 50 Pleasant River Road, Addison

Fall asleep to the sound of surf and wake to the sight of eagles soaring through the skylight view in your private perch on the Gulf of Maine. This master-carpenter-built jewel box is superbly sited. It sits on two acres at the tip of Cape Split to showcase sparkling distant views of Cadillac Mountain and the Petit Manan Lighthouse. This remote roost's layout holds delightful surprises at every turn. They start with a cozy kids' loft tucked under its peak and a deep soaking tub in the master bath. A generous central brick-faced fireplace anchors all, offset by the delightful cocktail deck that makes the perfect place to toast the sunset of another amazing Maine day.

Seaside Stunner| 51 Station Road, Beals

Set your sights to the great beyond! An open floor plan with great room, vaulted ceilings, and fireplace make this custom built home an astounding portal for sweeping views unmatched anywhere in Maine. Panoramic southwesterly views of MDI and Cadillac Mountain and the setting of the sun at day’s end. Crashing surf lapping at your front door and nature conservancy trails to explore in your backyard.

Bold Coast Properties DOWNEASTMAINE•207-497-5725•207-263-9800 261MainStreet,Jonesport,Maine04649 A FULL-SERVICE REAL ESTATE BROKERAGE

Homes & Living

“Your Real Estate Source for The Rangeley Region” RANGELEY RANGELEYLAKE PLT

HALEY - 1.99 Acre on Building Parcel Offers NibobanCIRCLE Sporting Camps Legendary Rangeley Potential Mountain/Rangeley Lake Surveyed, Lake! Cabin #4 End Unit Abutting theViews. Woods, Fully Soils Tested,Private PowerFlag at Street. Friendly Year-Round, StoneSnowmobile Patio. Once You Location Close to Town, Saddleback, 4-Season Arrive, You’ll Never Want To Leave! $279,900 Recreation. $53,500

RANGELEY PLANTATION RANGELEY

Caryn Dreyfuss Broker

Million HOME, Dollar Views This Hillside in GREAT GREATFrom LOCATION! LodgeLot Style Desirable Acre 3BR HomeRangeley with LightWest FilledSubdivision! Great Room,1.8 Professional Parcel w/Direct Snowmobile Access, Minutes Kitchen, Master Suite. AttachedTrail 4-Car Garage, to Oquossoc Amenities. Abutting Lot Also Generator, ATV/Snowmobile from Your Door,Available All on 10 For Purchase. $115,000 for each Acres. $425,000

SADDLEBACK IS BACK! quiMBY PONd Super RockPond! PondSeasonal Condo is1BR Ready for YourLoaded Immediate Enjoyment! Beautifully SUPERMountainside SWEET on Quimby Cottage w/North Woods Charm Offers ComfortAppointed 2BA with Fabulous Sun FilledPond/Mt Floor Plan, Mt./Saddleback Lake Level Views.Lawn Plus Rangeley Lake w/ able Living3BR, All on OneUnit Level! Views, Spacious Deck. to 100’ Frontage Resort Time Share Week Included. $329,000 Dock. Peaceful, Quiet Setting. $245,000

THE LODGES SANdY RivER PLT

dALLAS RANGELEY PLT

(207) 233-8275

caryndreyfuss@morton-furbish.com

MAGALLOWAY OquOSSOc PLT

2478 Main Street • P.O. Box 1209 Rangeley, Maine 04970 www.realestateinrangeley.com Well Wooded 2+ Acre Rangeley Parcel Offers Potential Savor the Panoramic Lake and Sunset Views From of Beaver Mt Lake! Several Possible BuildViews This Gently Used 4BR, 2BA Condo. ing Sites To Choose From. Directly Across Well-Appointed Tri-Level UnitLocated w/Spacious Open the Street FromEasy Deeded LakeAccess, Access1-Car w/Small Living Spaces, Sled Trail Garage, Boat Furnished. Launch. $95,000 Sold $319,000

Wooded, 1 AcreStyle Building Lotw/ in 2BR, Private/Quiet Neat as aLevel Pin Ranch Home Setting. NiceFloor SpotPlan, Ideally Located 4-season Comfortable Covered Car for Port, Metal Roof, Adventures, Generator. Saddleback LakeFarmers & Saddleback Mt. On-Demand Roomy Porch, Quiet are Nearby. Snowmobile Friendly, Short Drive to Country Setting, Close to No-Motors Quimby Pond. Rangeley Amenities. $40,000 $239,000

Tucked Away Off theLog-Sided Beaten Path and Yet Handy Beautifully Crafted Chalet w/ 3-BR, To Everything! Generous 7 Acre Wood in Quiet Cook’s Kitchen, Open Floor Plan. Sited on 9Lot Private Setting. Build Here andtoBePond Minutes Public Boat Acres w/Deeded Access Brook.ToFish/Paddle Ramps, Oquossoc $62,000 the Magalloway River,Amenities. Umbagog Lake, Sturtevant Pond. $282,500

SHELDON SLATE is a family-owned business with four generations of experience. We mine and manufacture our own slate products

from our own quarries. The range of our colors will complement any kitchen or bath. Our slate is heat-resistant, non-porous, and nonfading. It has a polished/honed finish and is very low maintenance. Let us help you design and build a custom sink, countertop, or vanity. Custom Inquiries are handled through the Monson, Maine, division. PRODUCERS OF SLATE FLOOR TILE, FLAGGING, STRUCTURAL SLATE AND ROOFING, MONUMENTS, AND SLATE SINKS Monson, Maine 04464 207-997-3615 Middle Granville, New York 12849 518-642-1280 SHELDONSLATE.COM 68 p o r t l a n d magazine

Homes & Living

The right real estate agent makes all the difference!

It would be my honor to help you buy or sell your home.

Mary Sue Mainella Realtor

207.233.4686 marysue@c21ne.com marysuerealty.com lic # SA921002

The Ofﬁcial Real Estate Company of the Boston Bruins

48 Free Street, Portland, Maine

Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Sales Manager (207) 831-4934 MLS#1406473 (Land) MLS#1406283 (Land & House) MLS#1312731 36 Rosewood Lane (Lot 36), Cobb Bridge Commons, 33 Bluff Head Rd, Chebeague Island, ME kelly@kellywentworth.com

New Gloucester, ME Cobbs Bridge Commons is an upscale community close to Brunswick, L/A and Portland. The subdivision offers privacy, walking trail to the Royal River and is close to Fox Ridge Golf course. The is listed for $59,900 or with a D. new (Specs) home for Gilbert D. land (Specs) Eaton Gilbert III $379,900

Beaches, Mooring, and Views! Cottage sited atop Bluff Head Rock outcropping. Motivated seller, recent favorable interest Kelly Wentworth-Lowe rates, and charming location make this sweet spot worth strong Sales Manager consideration. (207) 831-4934 Eaton III $449,500

Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Kelly Wentworth-Lowe “Quality Real Estate “Quality Practice RealBecomes Estate Practice Great Community Becomes Great Service.” Community Service.” kelly@kellywentworth.com (207) 491-5150 (207) 491-5150 Sales Manager Sales Manager specseaton@gmail.com specseaton@gmail.com ©2018 BHH BHH Affi Affiliates, liates, LLC. LLC. An An Independently Independently owned owned and operated operated franchisee franchisee of of BHH BHH Affi Affiliates, liates, LLC. LLC. Berkshire Berkshire Hathaway Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices and and the the Berkshire Berkshire Hathaway Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices symbol symbol (207) 831-4934 (207) 831-4934 ©2018 and are Equal Housing Housing Opportunity. Opportunity. are registered registered service service marks marks of of HomeServices HomeServices of of America, America, Inc. Inc. Equal kelly@kellywentworth.com kelly@kellywentworth.com ® ®

06473 (Land) MLS#1406473 MLS#1406283 (Land) (LandMLS#1406283 & House) MLS#1312731 (Land & House)

MLS#1312731

ood Lane (Lot2036 36), Rosewood CobbStreet, Bridge Lane Commons, (Lot 36), Cobb Bridge Commons, 33 Bluff Head Rd, Chebeague 33 Island, Head ME Chebeague Island, ME Gardiner Richmond $379,900 48 Bluff Pinette Lane,Rd, Topsham $325,000 cester, ME 3New Bed /Gloucester, 2 Bath / 3,409ME Sq. Ft. / 0.25 Acres lot size / Single Family Residence Listing ID: 1467477 dge Commons Cobbs is an upscale Bridge Commons community an close upscale to community Beaches, close Mooring, to and Beaches, Views! Mooring, sited and atop Views! Bluff Cottage Head sited atop Bluff Head Historical Greek Revival withisbeautiful antique features, high tin ceilings, 3 Bed / 1Cottage Full, 1 Half Bath / 1,440 Sq. Ft. / 1 Acre Do you want torecent generate income, live in a recent three-bedroom home,interest and rent k, L/A and Portland. Brunswick, The subdivision L/A and Portland. offers privacy, The subdivisionRock offers outcropping. privacy, Motivated Rock outcropping. seller, Motivated favorable seller, interest favorable Kelly Wentworth-Lowe Kelly Wentworth-Lowe out twomake garage bayssweet to pay for part of your mortgage? Privateworth location, rail to the Royal walking River trail and is toclose the Royal to Fox River Ridge and Golf is close to rates, Fox and Ridge charming Golf location rates, and charming this location spot worth make strong this sweet spot strong Sales Manager Sales Manager There is an attached barn (twoa floors) and a new two-car but close to shopping, arts,831-4934 dining, parks, and more. Lewiston, The land is listed course. for $59,900 The land or is with listed new for home $59,900 fororfreestanding with consideration. a new homegarage. for $449,500consideration. $449,500 (207) (207)Portland, 831-4934 The yard is a gardeners dream, come and bring it back to life. This home is and August are at your finger tips. $379,900 kelly@kellywentworth.com kelly@kellywentworth.com one mile from the Kennebec river and Swan Island.

Affi ©2018 owned liates, and LLC. operated An franchisee owned BHH and operated LLC. Berkshire Hathaway BHH liates, and Berkshire Hathaway and symbol Affiliates, liates, LLC. LLC. An An Independently Independently ©2018 BHH BHH Affi Affi owned liates, and LLC. operated An Independently Independently franchisee of of owned BHH Affi Affi andliates, liates, operated LLC.franchisee franchisee Berkshire of of Hathaway BHH Affi AffiHomeServices HomeServices liates, LLC. LLC. Berkshire Berkshire and the the Hathaway Hathaway Berkshire HomeServices HomeServices Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices and the the Berkshire Berkshire symbol Hathaway Hathaway HomeServices HomeServices symbol symbol ® ® ® Equal Housing are are America, marks Inc. HomeServices of Equal Housing Opportunity. Opportunity. Equal Housing Housing Opportunity. Opportunity. are registered registered service service marks marks of of HomeServices HomeServices are registered registeredof ofservice service America, marks Inc.of of HomeServices of America, America, Inc. Inc.® Equal

Winterguide 2021 69

Homes & Living

www.Morton-Furbish.com James L. Eastlack, Owner Broker 207-864-5777 or 207-670-5058 | JLEastlack@gmail.com

1322 Main Street – BEAVER MTN. LAKE – A park like setting, extremely private location, 3 beds, 2.5 baths, 596 feet of waterfront, attached garage, detached garage, potential guest cottage. $775,000. $775,000

20 Vista Lane – RANGELEY LAKE – A rare offering, the Buena Vista Estate on 567 feet of deep water frontage,53 private acres w/south facing exposure, total privacy, development potential. $2,650,000 $2,650,000.

6631 Spring SPRING LAKELAKE – Escape backoffering, to nature! Bald Lake Mtn. Road – MOOSELOOK – A rare A4 bed, wonderful location on Springlakefront Lake, 4 season camp w/ detached 3 beds, 4.5 bath contemporary home w/beach, 1garage bath, AND generator, garage, 1 acre owned land,3.56 165 feet privatedetached island w/2 bedroom guest cottage, of shorefront; fish, hunt, relax! $495,000 Acres! $1,899,000.

47 Manor Woods – RANGELEY LAKELAKE VIEWS – Great location 277 Stephens Road – MOOSELOOK – West facing for primary orfrontage, secondary home! 4-5 beds, baths, attached Sandy Beach 4 bed, 3 bath home3.5 w/attached 3 car garage,garage nice 3+and acre lot, private, from bonus doorstep, heated detached 3 carsnowmobile garage w/large room! Saddleback Views! $449,000. $850,000.

Infection Prevention cascobay Commercial Cleaning and Disinfection Services

CALL NOW 207.405.9164 www.cascobaycleaning.com 207.405.9164 70 p o r t l a n d magazine

Homes & Living

Portland Deering Highlands Waterfront $789,000 5 Bed | 3 Full$995,000 Bath | 2 Half Bath 3 Bed | 4 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath

West End Townhouse Portland $1,075,000 Western Promenade 3 Bed | 2 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath $995,000 4 Bed | 2 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath

Portland Western Promenade Newly Renovated $1,050,000 Condo 4 Bed | 2 Full$389,000 Bath | 1 Half Bath 2 Bed | 1 Full Bath

Portland Harbor Water Views Gorham $698,500 Classic Colonial 3 Bed | 2 Full Bath $514,900 4 Bed | 2 Full Bath | 1 Half Bath John Hatcher • The Hatcher Group 6 Deering Street, Portland, Maine 04101 207-775-2121• John@JohnHatcher.us • www.JohnHatcher.us

Winterguide 2021 71

Last Words

The Islander

aul stood on the wharf walk. His knees hurt him some. And his wrists. And his head had begun to dump some memories it didn’t find so useful anymore. His daddy had always told him a boat with too much litter’d stuff the bilges. Winter birds flew like bits of rag over the wharf house. It had a new red metal door, and the windowsills were plastic now. Saul allowed that some change was bound to be. The state of the shingles suggested they hadn’t been touched much. He reached out a palm and laid it on the wood. Cold, like rock. “Hey,” a boy said. Not a boy, a young man. He wore orange oilskins and held a trident with a pogy still skewered. Saul heyed back. “Can I help you?” The bait man stood in a way that reminded Saul of a bulldog he’d had. A good dog. “Just looking round.” “Well, aw-right.” Saul’s daddy had fished those waters in winter. And his daddy’s daddy fished those waters. Saul for a time had fished too, as most of the boys did on Bailey. The Bailey Island bridge was built in 1928. It spanned Will’s Gut to Orr’s Island, and from there the road went on to the world. When he told Franny Rogers he was headed for Port-

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land to earn a living, she’d asked why he didn’t just make a living the normal way. He kissed her and told her he’d be back with a heap of money so high she’d never see normal again. Of course he hadn’t ever come back. He walked to the edge of the bait deck. It was past seven, most boats long gone out. The sun slipped up past pine trees rooted in granitic slag, tossed out the shadows of summer homes perched like guard towers. Colossal boxes mostly shuttered for winter. Those were new too. The bridge had let Saul out, let the world in. At the dock, a sternman was baiting irons in no hurry. Four pogies apiece. His captain tinkered in the engine compartment, cursing. “Who’s that?” Saul asked the bait man. “Who’s who?” “Who’s that baiting irons?” “That there’s Franny Rogers.” “That’s not Franny Rogers.” Saul had never seen a woman in oilskins. “Franny’s gotta be—well now, she’s gotta be near seventy.” “Well, sure, that’ll be old Franny Rogers you’re talking about—Hank Rogers’s sister. That Franny down there is Hank’s granddaughter.”

The woman baiting the irons frowned and added a slab of bacon. Bacon. Saul shook his head. When he got to Portland in 1931, he’d had $4.31 in his pocket. A sum. The world had had even less. He’d taken a job at a cannery, sealing lobster. Sunday dinner was bacon and canned beans, sugared and fried. “Stay warm, now!” He was almost to his car when the bait man called back, “You from around here?” Saul turned slow as a wide boat. “One time I was. Sure.” “You mind me asking your name?” “Saul. Johnson.” “You any kin to the Orr’s Johnsons?” “We were Bailey Johnsons when I was here.” The bait man’s squint turned sour. “Old Franny always said never trust an island Johnson. Said they a flighty breed.” “Said?” “She died last June. Real nice service. Real nice lady.” The only letter Franny’d sent said if a man left Bailey by boat he’d float back one day, but if a boy left by bridge he’d be gone for good. “Real wise too.” Saul heaved about, got in his car, and drove away across the bridge again. n

patti McDonald

Ne w Fiction by Katherine Cart

Cowboy Beef & Black Bean Chili SERVES 8 Ingredients: 2 lbs. Hannaford Ground Beef (95% lean) 1 Tbsp. Vegetable oil 1 1/2 cups Onions, chopped 2 Tbsp. Garlic, minced 2 Yellow bell peppers, chopped 1 Jalapeño pepper, seeded, finely chopped 1/4 cup McCormick® Chili Powder 1 Tbsp. McCormick® Ground Cumin 1 tsp. McCormick® Ground Oregano 1 tsp. McCormick® Thyme Leaves 1/8 tsp. McCormick® Ground Cayenne Red Pepper 1 (28 oz.) Can crushed tomatoes, undrained 1 (14 1/2 oz.) Can chili diced tomatoes, undrained 1 (14 1/2 oz.) Can low sodium beef broth 12 oz. Dark beer 1/3 cup Tomato paste 2 (15 oz.) Cans low sodium black beans, rinsed and drained 2 medium Ripe Avocados from Mexico, peeled and cut into chunks 2 oz. Cabot® Lite50 Sharp Cheddar, shredded 1 cup Stonyfield® Organic 0% Fat Plain Greek Yogurt

Need some healthy comfort food for those cold nights? Try a different spin on an American classic. This two-star-earning hearty chili features lean ground beef, onions, bell peppers, black beans, lots of spices and a secret ingredient — dark beer. This satisfying, savory recipe makes enough for eight!

simply healthy

Directions: 1. Brown ground beef in a large stockpot over medium heat (8 to 10 minutes). Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef from stockpot and set aside. Safely pour off drippings. 2. Heat oil in same stockpot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and garlic; cook until onions are tender (3 to 5 minutes). Add bell peppers and jalapeño and cook until tender (4 to 5 minutes). 3. Return beef to stockpot. Add chili powder, cumin, oregano, thyme and cayenne; cook and stir until toasted (2 to 3 minutes). 4. Stir in crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, broth, beer and tomato paste; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes. Uncover stockpot and continue simmering until thickened (30 to 40 minutes). 5. Stir in beans; cook until beans are heated through (5 to 10 minutes). Top with avocado, shredded cheddar cheese and Greek yogurt. Garnish with cilantro, if desired.

from your Hannaford Dietitians Have questions about your health? Our team of registered dietitians offer free nutritional services online and in-store. Visit hannaford.com/dietitians to learn more.

Nutritional Information: Amount per serving: Calories 210; Total Fat 7 g; Saturated Fat 2 g; Sodium 85 mg; Carbohydrate 31 g; Fiber 2 g; Sugar 13 g; Protein 9 g

BREATHTAKING VIEWS LUXURIOUS AMENITIES & WORLD-CLASS GOLF

GOLFSIDE VILLAS Minutes away from downtown Boothbay Harbor, the Golfside Villas have spectacular views overlooking the 1st hole of Boothbay Harbor Country Club. Indulge in all of the exclusive membership benefits at Boothbay Harbor Country Club, which is now fully private.

• Discounted golf at BHCC • Near fitness center/pool • Private balconies

• Golf course views • Air conditioning/Luxury linens • King-sized beds/en-suite baths

The six-bedroom villas can also be rented as 2, 4 and 5-bedroom. Separate one-bedroom suites are also available.

RATES (peak is 6/25-9/14): One-Bedroom (private patio and kitchene e) Off Peak: $1,500/wk, Peak: $2,500/wk Four-Bedroom (full kitchen, decks, game room, hot tub) Off Peak: $6,000/wk, Peak: $10,000/wk Six-Bedroom (full kitchen, decks, game room, hot tub) Off Peak: $9,000/wk, Peak: $15,000/wk For those who enjoy a water view, we offer harborside co ages which can be viewed on our website. BoothbaySummerCo ages.com Reservations: 207-633-4455 x602