Portrait of Portland Volume 27

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WallaWalla WINE TERROIR the “Next Napa Valley” • Great Chefs • Luxury Inns

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Color Forecast

Eye on Design

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All day, everyday a single craftsman tied individual knots. Thousands and thousands of them.

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With a long and distinguished care career er full o off trulyy amazing homes we we are proud to to take take our place place as one o Respected and Creative we started started building in Bend, Creative Home Builders in the Northwest�.

Nor thwest� off the “Most Respected st�.. Since Since we Ore gon in 1977 our territory Gearhart on the Oregon Oregon Coast Coast to to territoryy has e Oregon expanded xpanded to to included projects projects from Gearhart the Santiam Riv er by

by Waterloo Waterloo in the Willamette to the pear orchards of of the Hood River River ValRiver Willamette Valley, Vaalley, North Nor th to Valleyy and South to plateau off For Fortt Klamath. W We have le to the beautiful pristine mountian plat eau o o e hav e built or are about tto

we known creative artistic off eexceptionally ccompletion ompletion w ach.. Our tteam eam o xceptionallyy skilled e are kno wn ffor or our creativ e ar tistic hands on approach. craftspeople craf fttsp tspeople are always anxious to to impress as they they lookk to to gain the trust and respect respect of of our clients.

Please cconsider onsider choosing us for foor yyour our o building and design needs. n krea@bendbroadband.com nWeb www.reaco-nw.com w.reac . o-nw w.c . om Phone 541.390.9848 Email krea@bendbroadband.c om n Web www

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REALTY

contents

VOLUME 27

24

Home + Garden 24

EYE ON DESIGN Furnishings and décor currently capturing attention: accent pieces and fabrics in saturated fall hues and shimmering finishes add just the right touch of warmth for the cooler months ahead.

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AMERICAN BEAUTY With a commitment to sourcing from local suppliers and craftsmen, and an eye on American-made products, Westlake Development and designer Garrison Hullinger team up to create the 2013 “Made in America” showhouse.

LOOKING FORWARD

PRIME TIME Designer Barbara Sumner transforms a King’s Heights home with a harmonious balance of light and dark, successfully creating rooms that bring the family together.

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With an eye for the well-edited and eclectic, designer Jennifer Leonard reinvents a couple’s first home in time for the arrival of their new baby.

ALL THAT GLITTERS Awash in a delightful mélange of birch linen, metallics and delicate peach hues, designer and stylist Ruth Chancellor shares her secrets to pulling together a dining room with casual sophistication.

COLOR FORECAST We ask the pros for painting tips on using this season’s deeper hues.

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BACK TO THE FUTURE A delightful custom remodel by Joelle Nesen of Maison Inc. enlivens a Colonial-style home with period charm and modern functionality.

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VOLUME 27

Travel + Lifestyle 52

90

PEAK SEASON The godfather of farm-to-table dining in Portland, Chef Greg Higgins shares his fascination for growing and propagating rare chilli peppers and heirloom tomatoes as well as a few recipes for a gardenfresh Mediterranean feast.

96 Roast Loin of Oregon Albacore with Padrón Chillies Baba Ghanouj and Pita Bread

98 Muhummara – Roasted Pepper and Walnut Dip

90

WALLA WALLA VALLEY WINE APPELATION We discover quaint world-class inns and a culinary community of top chefs amidst a wine region that is garnering the attention of the press worldwide, coined as the “next Napa Valley”. Our 26 page guide highlights chefs, restaurants and several winemakers you won’t want to miss.

117+119 Cole Danehower’s Tasting Notes and recommended wines from Walla Walla Valley.

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

PUBLISHER Claudia M. Brown EDITOR/SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Kiki Meletis EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Bill Ashenden

AS ALWAYS, THE WORLD BUZZES THROUGH CONNECTIONS. Friends introduce friends,

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cole Danehower

someone hears you’re working on a wine story idea, and they know someone who might give

Lori Gleichman

you a call, and before you know it, well, you’ve packed your car and headed off to Walla Walla.

Stephanie Boyle Mays

The friendly voice reaching out was Nabiel Shawa, the town’s City Manager to see if I might like

Kerry Newberry

to attend Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine weekend. They were comparing cabernets of Napa Valley to the cabs of Walla Walla. Hmmm, sounded quite interesting.

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Turns out, a lot of private jets were also headed up from Napa Valley and other parts of the coun-

Richard DuVal

try, because Walla Walla is more than on the map for producing world-class wines. And so

Black Stone Edge Studios Jumping Rocks Greg Kozawa

began my four-hour trek from Portland through charming rural countryside roads, listening to

David Papazian

NPR. How could I turn down such a wine adventure? The result of that lovely weekend is this

John Valls

issue’s comprehensive guide to Walla Walla Valley’s great winemakers, wineries, hot chefs and

Ali Walker

luxury inns – basically everything you’ll need to know to plan your best weekend getaway ever.

PUBLISHED BY

And we offer big thanks to Cole Danehower for also sharing his Tasting Notes and recom-

Portrait™ Publications

mending wines for this hot wine region. Cole won a coveted James Beard Journalism Award for

PO Box 9097

his wine writing, and is the author of, Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest.

Portland, Oregon 97207-9097 Phone 503.203.1373

Passion and creativity can be a very good thing, particularly in the hands of chef Greg Higgins,

Fax 503.241.0383

Portland’s godfather of farm-to-table dining. We went behind the scenes to his Hillsdale home

email:

and discovered his other world – that of test gardens, greenhouse and a stately wood-fired oven,

claudia@PortraitMagazine.com

where he is constantly testing, tasting and growing exotic chillies and heirloom tomatoes. Lucky

www.PortraitMagazine.com

for us, he also shared a fine collection of tasty recipes (both online and in Portrait Magazine).

SUBSCRIPTIONS ONLY $2 PER ISSUE

For home inspiration, we feature four completely diverse styles of recent projects from interior

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designers Jennifer Leonard, Barbara Sumner, Garrison Hullinger and Joelle Nesen. Eye On

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Design moves to cooler colors with top picks from national and local sources for furnishings,

12 issues $24

fabrics, lighting and rugs. We will soon be gearing up for our 20-year anniversary, so now is a

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great time to register online at www.PortraitMagazine.com. There will be trips, prizes and a full

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year of festivities to celebrate. Mostly, thanks for supporting us through the years. We couldn’t

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do it without you and our loyal advertisers.

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© 2013 Portrait™ Publications. Claudia Brown + Company, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission. Every effort has been made to ensure the information in this publication is current and correct.

However, conditions beyond our control may change the accuracy over time.

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CENTRAL OREGON

Where to Eat, Play & Relax

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INSPIRING DESIGN + HOT KITCHEN REMODELS At Home With Terry Porter

COMES TO THE WEST www.PortraitMagazine.com

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INSPIRATIONAL DESIGNER KITCHENS!

GLAMOROUS LOFTS! PROS SHARE THEIR STYLE:

INTERVIEW WITH SUNNY JIN + RECIPES WWW.PORTRAITMAGAZINE.COM

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HOME REMODELS+ DECORATING IDEAS

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At Home With Thomas Paine IN THE KITCHEN WITH CHEF PASCAL CHUREAU

DREAM PROJECTS Advice from the experts

IN THE GARDEN WITH SUSAN BATES

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To ďŹ nd a trade ally builder, contrac tor or real estate professional who can provide an EPS score for your home, call 1 . 866 . 368 .7878 or visit w w w.energ y trust .org /eps.

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DEVINE COLOR Devine Paseo at Rodda Paint

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BOOK SMART

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1) The 50s architectural inspired French Shelby Writing Desk with crushed bamboo fronts from Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams. At www.mgbwhome.com 2) Rozz Amber Mirrored UFO Pendant, through www.worldsaway.com 3) Traditional meets mod in this re-imagined Winslet chair with a high-gloss paint finish. Available at www.mgbwhome.com 4) The first book to focus on the solo residential work of the visionary interior decorator Stephen Sills. Stephen Sills: Decoration published by Rizzoli. 5) Natural faux horn lamp with burlap shade, handcrafted with hand applied finish at www.lazysusan.com 6) Two bottle wine leather carrier www.reginaandrews.com 7) Mushroom Pulls from Martin Pierce’s Flora Collection, in oil rubbed bronze, also in colored hot patinas. Available at www.chownhardware.com 8) Natural polished horn bowl from Mitchell Gold+Bob Williams, www.mgbwhome.com

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An earthy toned rug of gold, leaf green and salmon with a jade background works well in all types of dĂŠcor. Made of New Zealand wool.

Available at Atiyeh Bros. atiyehbros.com 4

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Philosophically casual, Bernhardt’s Huntington Collection provides the perfect pieces for creating the feel of a country home - no matter where you live. Suggesting English style, the Huntington Round Dining Table with a fancy face top of thick cut Mahogany veneers with dark wood inlaid border. Available at www.tiffanyhomefurnishings.com

RODDA PAINT Opening Night 8301

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1) Currey and Company’s Ringmaster Chandelier in a contemporary gold leaf finish, www.parker-furniture.com 2) A tribute to the one in every family. Black Sheep, available through www.mgbwhome.com 3) Be bold with this graphic charcoal velvet geometric pattern appliqued on linen, www.mgbwhome.com 4) Timeless versatility of black and white patterns, Duralee’s Arboretum in Black #20958-12, Fox Hollow in Ebony #42324-102, Blaire Collection in Kohl #42278-12, Hamilton Collection in Jet #42211-688, www.millendstore.com 5) Wilkes Table features a molded concrete top covered in dark pewter presented atop an exciting graphic pattern of overlapping black iron ovals. www.tiffanyhomefurnishings.com 6) Streamlined and sculptured silhouettes—trim and slim Tasha Chair. Available at www.mgbwhome.com 7) A little bit French 50s and a lot today, the Toklas Console Table gets a graphic kick from the contrasting organically shaped door handles and twinkly brass legs. www.jonathanadler.com 8) A Manual for the Considered Home Remodelista, Workman Publishing at www.workman.com

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IN THE

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NAVY

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1) Creamy smooth, Eilersen’s new Soft Ice leather sofa. Available through www.ubhip.com 2) Fabia dining chairs add comfort and a dash of luxe to any meal. The Swedish-inspired design. Available through www.madegoods.com 3) Parisian Sun Chandelier by Regina Andrew.

Available at www.reginaandrew.com 4) An antique brass finish adds a stylish touch to the Joyce Side Chair. This unique side chair brings a mid century touch and a simplistic statement to any room or dining room table, from Gabby Home. Available through www.tiffanyhomefurnishings.com 5) Jaipur Rugs Barcelona Blue Abstract Rug available at www.jaipurrugs.com 6) The Life of a Bowerbird: Creating Beautiful Interiors with the Things You Collect, published by Haper Design www.harpercollins.com 7) Worlds Away Conrad navy lacquer tray with Greek key, gold leafed base, www.worlds-away.com 8) Inspired by the world’s most dramatic mountain ranges, the Glacier rug is constructed from hand-spun wool. Available at Atiyeh Bros. www.atiyehbros.com

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1) G Romano’s Konnect lounge and bumper in a deep inky charcoal sets an unexpected ground for saturated autumn colors. www.ewf-modern.com 2) Shedding light on iconic industrial style, Ralph Lauren Home Roark 50� modular ring chandelier in aged iron. 3) Farrow & Ball Decorating with Colour, by Ros Byam Shaw, published by Ryland Peters & Small 4) Arteriors Desoto Large Sculpture-Silver Leaf antler, through www.arteriors.com 5) The Arden fan in oil rubbed bronze has walnut finish legs, 74 x 18 Motor, 3-speed rotary switch through www.shopcandelabra.com 6) A delightful gift for the modern chef, Alphabet Tea Towels by Le Jacquard Francais feature a playful typography design. At www.pleasebeseatedpdx.com 7) Nature in a new shade, Subin matte black Stump table. Available www.arteriors.com 8) Finished in decadent caviar stain, the dashing Manning is dressed-up modern. Mitchell Gold + Bob William at www.mgbwhome.com

URBAN RUSTIC 4 7

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Ikat stagger is a spin on ethnic tribal ikat fabrics in a modern, urban color palette. Available from www.christianemillingerorientalrugs.com

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Designer Pick The Geode Scroll collection uses bold earth tones and a subtle deconstructed damask pattern for an organic, unique look. Made from high quality wool with a dense weave for luxe softness. Available at Atiyeh Bros. www.atiyehbros.com.

PortraitMagazine.com

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Your dream room Starts here...

Tiffany Home Furnishings Furniture - Accessories - Design

Showroom Hours Tues - Fri 11-6 • Saturday 11-5

9150 SW Pioneer Court Wilsonville, OR 97062

(503) 855-4764 tiffanyhomefurnishings.com

Designer Pick Part of the 2014 Lapchi Carpet Collection—a stunning new collection of designs based on ancient Japanese aesthetics.

Shown: Lapchi Plume VV100+SVV11 Available through Lapchi at www.lapchi.com

PortraitMagazine.com

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forecast

COLORS OF THE SEASON

Sumptuous and self-indulgent, the deeper shades of our cooler seasons exude unflinching opulence. Smoky plums and deep charcoals provide a clever canvas for fall’s golden palette.

Painting with darker colors ADVICE FROM RODDA PAINT’S LEADING COLOR EXPERTS START SMALL – use darker colors as accents to pull out subtle

hues in the room. You can use fall colors as a backdrop and accessorize with bolder color in pillows, glass vases or art pieces.

CHECK YOUR LIGHTING – pick your colors in the space you’re

using them and try them both during the day in natural light and in the evening with your home lighting. You may want to experiment with different types of bulbs to highlight the true effect of the color you choose. Make sure that your space has enough light to show off your color, these darker tones absorb more light.

KNOW YOUR SHEENS – deeper tones give a richer look when tinted in a flat or velvet flat paint and this also helps to hide imperfections in wall surfaces. If you want more reflection or glow from the surface, satins & eggshells are a good choice. If painting trim, millwork and doors stay with enamel product which dries to a harder finish and is available in low, semi & gloss.

In the Northwest where skies are often overcast skies and light is

REVIEW YOUR SPACE – step back and squint to see the area that you will cover. Dark colors tend to view better on symmetrical surfaces as they add visual weight to a room, that’s why you often see a darker color below and lighter color above in a chair-rail situation. Another good tip is that your eye is naturally drawn to the greatest source of contrast in a room; think of a black frame with white matting – you see a perfect square where they meet – this will also occur around windows and doors if your trim color is drastically different than your walls.

filtered, muted tones can be a perfect choice. As for inspiration

ASK AN EXPERT – paint professionals, including those who work

look to nature or consider a cherished item that captivates you.

at Rodda, have experience in helping people define their projects, can offer tools for sampling and advise in choosing the right product for the job.

Shown here: Le Jacquard Francais Anatolie Bois de santal Nappe, from Please Be Seated, pleasebeseatedpdx.com

LIMIT YOUR CHOICES – Rodda Paint Cascadia Color Collection

is full of artisan styled and leading Northwest colors to make it easier for you to decide. Try the newly popular Western Saddle or Western Juniper to add a hint of color to your next project.

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Pinecone Path 8565 Rodda Paint

Autumn Plum 8205 Rodda Paint

Old Brick 8613 Rodda Paint

Wendy Way 8685 Rodda Paint

Designer Pick Pure fantasy, Little Bird is a design from the new Stephanie Odegard collection; made of 100 himalayan wool. Available through: Christiane Millinger Oriental Rugs and Textiles christianemillingerorientalrugs.com

PortraitMagazine.com

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fabric NEW THREADS

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OREGON & WASHINGTON MORE THAN

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Fine Window Treatments that are Uniquely You!

Locally-produced Shutters and Blinds from Wood and Synthetic Materials

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the run around In the past few years, there’s been a unwaivering trend toward trellis, lattice, basketweave and scroll patterns. Ranging from Moroccan-style geometrics to canework references these designs call upon tradition but have been translated into larger scale prints and woven, printed and embroidered in the latest colorways creating an intricate and eye-catching motif. Fancy but approachable, they marry well with almost any decor. Wondering how to use them? Pick a color scheme and start layering!

EXPLORE YOUR ART at the Rental Sales Gallery

Fabrics shown available at Mill End Store, www.millendstore.com

1) Peek of Chic in Platinum 32786.1611 From Kravet Design Style: Jacquards, Contemporary Origin: Italy

Museum members can select from over 250 regional artists and an inventory of over 2,000 works in all media.

Search the Rental Sales Gallery collection at portlandartmuseum.org.

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2) Pattern #42224-404 From Duralee Collection: Hamilton Collection Design Style: All-Purpose Fabric 100% Cotton with Duragard

Rental Sales Gallery • 1237 SW 10th Avenue

3) Modern Elegance in Saffron 32076.14 From Kravet Design Design Style: Contemporary, Lattice/ScrollWork Origin: India 4) Main Focus Citron 31222.13 From Kravet Design Design Style: Contemporary Origin: Italy

New beautiful floors, the easy way.

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Come in today. ~ Judith Huck, Owner

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CLASSIQUE FLOORS 14127 SE Stark Portland, OR 97233 l 503-255-6775 judith@classiquefloors.com l www.classiquefloors.com

Designer Pick Noir’s Golden Horse painting on canvas adds a traditional note to the dining room’s casual sophistication.

From tiffanyhomefurnishings.com

GLAMOUR QUOTIENT A touch of sparkle draws this elegant dining room into center stage. Stylist Ruth Chancellor contrasted the soft palette of Orient Express dining chairs to offset the rich wood tones of the Astor table and Lorraine sideboard.

Brook armchairs and Graham side chairs are upholstered in a birch fabric with brushed brown nails. The room’s ambiance is accented by warm grays and cream, ochre and amber in the Karastan Whitman Place rug. The golden horse art came from Noir. Tabletop is Lenox Vintage Jewel bone china with 24 karat gold, precious platinum and enamel jewelling. Crystal wine glasses and goblets are Lenox Solitaire platinum. All furnishings were from Tiffany Home Furnishings. The home was featured in Street of Dreams, by Palisch Homes.

Home Furnishings: Tiffany Home Furnishings tiffanyhomefurnishings.com, Stylist: Ruth Chancellor Designs chancellordesigns.com, Builder: Pahlisch Homes pahlischhomes.com

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LOOKING FORWARD In Portland’s West Hills neighborhood, a recently married couple weds family treasures, modern design and a twist on tradition in their first home, all while waiting to welcome their first child.

WRITTEN BY STEPHANIE BOYLE MAYS

As the house moves from front to back it becomes progressively more modern in design. The kitchen and its eating area at the back of the house were remodeled in the early 2000s; it presented an opportunity to combine the bar stools that came with the house, a sideboard the couple already owned, art work from family and a new dining table and chairs from The Good Mod.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID PAPAZIAN

L

eslie Nevius was feeling a bit overwhelmed. She and her husband Devon had married seven months earlier, they were expecting their first child in another seven months, and they had bought their first house a month before. While it was time to say good-bye to make-do and put-it-together-yourself furniture, the couple needed to furnish their home with something, and they still had pieces they wanted to keep and integrate. It was clear to Leslie that she needed a designer.

“I think I have good taste,” Nevius explained, “but I wanted to know how everything would be put together. I could pick out random nice things, but I wanted nice things that went together and made sense.” And she wanted to be an integral part of the process. The first designer Nevius spoke with didn’t seem interested in the collaborative approach that she wanted. While the clock metaphorically ticked on the wall, Nevius considered an unusual plan B. “The house was built in 1890. We assumed it would need some work, so my husband had bought a subscription to Angie’s List. He suggested I look there. I thought you don’t find designers on Angie’s List, you find plumbers and carpenters. But I also thought, he had bought the subscription, so I might as well try it.

“Once I started looking, I read a lot of rave reviews for Jennifer Leonard at Nifelle Design. When I met Jennifer, I immediately felt comfortable with both her aesthetic and approach.”

“When Leslie and I met,” said Leonard, “Leslie explained what she needed, and the timeframe in which it needed to be accomplished. It was an all-encompassing project, and we had six months to decorate the home with the acquired look that Leslie wanted.”

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Not just any windows, the back of the kitchen is a nanowall that can be fully opened when weather permits. An adjoining concrete patio offers an outside kitchen that already existed when the couple bought the home. A red lacquer table and chairs complement the teak bench that also came with the house. Indoor/outdoor fabrics in brightly colored hues cover bench pillows and make seating more comfortable.

We dove in right away. It was very important to Leslie that we blend her more traditional style with her husband’s more modern tastes, and that we include pieces that had belonged to her parents. In the guest bedroom, for example, we based the design on a Chinese silk rug that had belonged to her mother.”

In the downstairs public rooms, the two drafted their plans from the ground up by refinishing wood floors with a Jacobean stain and choosing beautiful and hard-wearing hand-knotted wool rugs from Kush Handmade Rugs that would set the tone and palette. “After seeing Jennifer’s approach of working from the rugs up, it just started to make sense,” recalled Nevius. “I went from thinking ‘I can’t bring a baby home to this,’ to being able to breathe normally again.”

For the dining room, Leonard found a mahogany dining table fashioned in New York circa 1810 at Fred Squire Antiques in Lake Oswego. Complementary mahogany chairs date from the 1890s. The seats and backs of the side chairs are upholstered in blue mohair while the chairs at the heads of the table traded out blue mohair for inserts of silk fabric from G.P & J Baker.

At the back of the room, an Edwardian-era drop-down desk was converted into a bar. A chandelier from Currey & Co provides nighttime lighting.

In the living room, a hand-knotted Pakistani rug from Kush provides a pivot point for the room’s design. A sofa with a unique cut out is covered in a viscose-and-linen blend from Kravet. As with many of the home’s other fabrics, the sofa was treated with Fiber-Seal to provide stain resistance. Elsewhere in the room, a glass coffee table from Stanley allows a view of the rug, while the bolsters on the sofa and pillows on a pair of armless chairs are covered in the same blue mohair that is used in the dining room.

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The easiest area to redo was the kitchen at the back of the house, and it was a microcosm of the blend that Nevius wanted to achieve. The previous homeowners had built an addition that included the modern kitchen, eating area and family room.

Here, Leonard blended a modern sideboard that Devon Nevius had owned with a new table and chairs from The Good Mod and bar stools that had come with the house. In the kitchen proper, hanging smoke-colored glass pendants from the Caviar line by Laura Kirar at Arteriors pushed the room to the more modern end of the home’s design continuum. Art work that had belonged to Leslie’s mother was reframed at Katayama, and then hung over the sideboard to round out the blend of old, new and acquired.

Upstairs, the master bedroom was designed to provide a respite for the parents-to-be. A dressing area was equipped with an inherited chair from Leslie’s mother reupholstered in a modern tweed with bits of teal, cream, chartreuse and greens. To balance the tweed, an ottoman was covered in a bright solid from Kravet’s custom line. Across the room, tables from Bedford Brown flank a bed from Mitchell Gold. The bed is dressed in SDH Legna sheets and topped with custom-made pillows in the same fabric as the dressing-area ottoman. At the foot of the bed, sits a bench covered in a gold-thread embroidered linen from Anna French at Thibaut.

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Off the kitchen (far left) and adjoining the living room, the dining room provides a more formal area in which family and friends can gather – and where the couple hosted family for Christmas. The New York-made mahogany table dates to about 1810, while the chairs are from the 1890s. A drop-leaf Pembroke table (left) sits below a landscape painting by Portland artist Annie Meyer. At one end of the living room nook (below) a wing chair from Leslie’s parents’ home was recovered in fabric by Kravet. The blues, browns and other tones from the living room rug helped inspire the colors and forms used throughout the living and dining rooms.

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A small arm chair and ottoman (left) are parked conveniently by the closet in the dressing area of the master bedroom. The weathered birch-finished bureau from Stanley (bottom) helps lighten the room, while the capiz shell mirror helps reflect light. Bedside tables and reading lamps are on either side of the bed, while above it hangs a trio of paintings by Annie Meyer.

The room with the tightest – and most important – deadline was the nursery. Not only did it have to be ready for the impending arrival, but it also had to be suitable for future children. Walls painted in Divine Butter provide a foil for bright pops of color in the valances, rug and throw pillow. Practical touches include blackout shades and lots of storage. A wall of open shelves provides space for toys, books and treasures from both Leslie and Devon’s childhoods. Other family treasures in the room include framed Winnie the Pooh prints from the new arrival’s paternal grandmother.

“My challenge was to have everything work together and do it quickly,” said Leonard, “but Leslie has such exquisite taste and was so interested and involved with the whole process that it was just wonderful to work with her and see it all come together.”

“When we finished,” says Nevius of her completed home. “I would sit in every room and just admire it.

I am so proud of how comfortable, beautiful and elegant it is. It is a completely livable home.”

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The couple’s baby boy came home to a room fitted with bright and happy colors and memories of his parents’ childhoods. Winnie the Pooh prints (left) from his paternal grandmother hang above a reading area with a glider and a table holding the to-be-read pile.

Open shelves hold books and toys, including some owned by the baby’s parents when they were young. The newest member of the family (bottom) patiently waits for story time.

PROJECT SOURCES REMODELING CONTRACTOR Neal Van Zante Construction INTERIOR DESIGN Nifelle Design - Fine Interiors www.nifelledesign.com

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shoptalk

JENNIFER LEONARD

Inspiration

WHAT’S TOPPING YOUR BOARDS? Textures of SHAGREEN, mohair and grass cloths.

Gold tones and GILDED FINISHES. Stones of QUARTZ and MALACHITE. Wallpaper of all kinds, from hand painted

silk papers to simple textured grass cloths.

WHO’S INSPIRING YOU RIGHT NOW? Leonard: In fashion, I’m drawn to the edginess of many Dries Van Noten designs, as well as the classic lines of Ferragamo. In design, Alexa Hampton, Suzanne Kasler and Barbara Barry are favorites of mine. Their classic styles always feel fresh and relevant.

WHAT ARE YOU READING

Leonard: I'm reading The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks by Rebecca Skloot. It is my book club’s selection and an amazing read.

MY SECRET DESIGN TIP(S) IS…

Leonard: Window treatments are a must! Many people want to ignore window treatments or they think of them only as the last step in a room, but adding fabric to windows, whether a classic wool drapery or a patterned print on a roman shade, can make a room more comfortable and inviting. That and a great rug.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE CITY? Leonard: Rome. The art, history, architecture and fashion are amazing. This past summer we rented an apartment inside an art museum near the Piazza Novona in the heart of Rome. It was fabulous.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL DESIGN SHOP?

Leonard: Kush Rugs in the Pearl. Owners Brian Robins and Rebecca Lurie curate an outstanding collection of hand knotted beauties.

WHAT DESIGN PERIOD DO YOU FIND MOST ENGAGING?

Leonard: The present! The range of materials available and the quality of American craftsmanship is incredible.

AND YOUR GREATEST INDULGENCE? Leonard: David Yurman jewelry! I love his classic, tailored jewelry designs. His Starburst collection is a particular favorite right now; this collection was inspired by fireworks over Paris, and it shows.

This collection creatively captures the City of Light.

TELL US HOW YOU GOT STARTED. I am a second-generation interior designer. My mother owned a large design and furniture showroom in downtown Bend. From a young age I was pulling discontinued samples off the showroom floor, as well as attending furniture markets and buying trips with my mother. Design is in my blood.

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YOUR GO-TO HOSTESS GIFT?

Leonard: Fresh flowers from my garden. If not in season, I love giving Italian-milled bath soaps, which I get through SEH. FAVORITE LONG-WEEKEND GET-AWAY?

Leonard: The Allison Inn located in Newberg is my favorite escape for a relaxing weekend away. The spa is a must – I highly recommend their signature Mimosa Massage!

IN THREE WORDS, DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGN SPIRIT.

Leonard: Classic, authentic, tranquil.

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Heidi and Patrick O’Neill and designer Barbara Sumner demonstrate how thoughtful design can result in a functional home that is also beautiful. And the “cool factor” of a high-tech entertainment system didn’t hurt in helping the family spend more time together.

WRITTEN BY LORI GLEICHMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG KOZAWA

WHEN PATRICK AND HEIDI O’NEILL purchased the 3,400 square foot home in King’s Heights in northwest Portland they didn’t have kids yet. “We thought it was huge… that we’d never use that much space,” Patrick said. Fast forward 15 years to a household that includes two boys on the verge of their teens and a Burmese Mountain dog named Scout. “Too much space” was no longer the problem.

According to Patrick, the house was built in 1929. In keeping with the period, the rooms were small and the floor plan was choppy. A previous remodel in 2007 had borrowed space from a small garage to expand the kitchen, including a butler’s pantry and an eating nook, but in 2010 the house was growing increasingly cramped for the family.

“So, we started looking for another house,” Patrick explained, “but with some pretty tight criteria.”

They wanted to remain in their neighborhood, they wanted more contemporary architecture, and they wanted a garage and a yard. “After looking, we realized what we wanted didn’t exist in this neighborhood so it just made sense to make this the house we wanted.”

Once again, they called friend and designer Barbara Sumner of Barbara Sumner Design in Portland. She had previously helped the O’Neill’s finish a second home in Tumalo (See Desert Sky and Pastures in the Summer 2013 Portrait) and was very familiar with the couple’s modern sensibility and need that their home function well for an active family and a big dog.

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The glossy white ceiling is the perfect frame for the unusual polished nickel chandelier handcrafted by Jean D. Merry. The modern but comfortable sofa/chaise was custom designed by Sumner to fit the space, while allowing maximum seating. The Metropolitan chairs and metal/leather Nix coffee table are both from B & B Italia. The fireplace mantle is designed by Sumner and executed by Venice Genoa Stone & Tile.

Speaking of the boys, a priority in the remodel was to make the living room inviting to them so they would spend more time with the family instead of watching TV downstairs or hanging out their rooms. However, the space also had to function for formal entertaining, which the O’Neills do often.

Heidi knew that attracting the boys meant incorporating a TV into the space, which Patrick was strongly against. However, Sumner found a unique solution in a very high-tech entertainment system that looks like a mirror when not in use. She had it beautifully framed and the screen now sits atop the restructured fireplace that centers the room.

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According to Sumner, the speakers are hidden in the walls and all the wiring has been run under the floor to the recessed nook to the right of the archway that leads to the sunroom. All the electronics are conveniently located – but hidden – in the cabinet below, while the glass shelves display objects and art. The nook crosses quickly from functional to fabulous because of the back wall, which is finished with silver leaf and glows in the right light.

Sumner achieved a better space for entertaining by opening up access to the sunroom (a former outside porch) from the living room via arches on either side of the fireplace. Expansive windows look out over a gorgeous view of the Cascade Range and

How to balance light and dark is beautifully demonstrated in the formal dining room. The table is custom-designed white glass and chrome flanked by black Saarinen swivel chairs from Hive Modern. The draperies were made with hand-loomed fabric from Spain, and Sumner believes the ceramic chandelier

by Jason Miller NYC adds a touch of whimsy.

The clean lines and bright white meet the O’Neills’ preference for an uncluttered kitchen. The sleek counter stools are from DWR. A connected butler’s pantry is where Patrick hangs out with his laptop while the boys do homework in the eating nook. The table is custom-designed burned/silvered oak table and the white stools are from Saarinen.

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Portland, while also letting in abundant natural light. In addition, there is a baby grand piano and room for a bar, which is convenient when hosting a cocktail party for friends or a favorite nonprofit.

Sumner also knew how to make the most of the neutral palette the O’Neills find soothing after working and running a busy family. “The key to using a simple, monochromatic palette – in this case, black, white, silver and gray – is to add texture,” she said. Every finish in the remodeled living room compels a hand to reach out to touch, from stroking the plush carpet sitting on top of the ebony floors, to fingering the veined soapstone on the fireplace, to watching the glow from the flames dance on the glossy white finish on the ceiling. She also describes the O’Neills as exuberant and fun, and bubbling with wonderful senses of humor. It was important to reflect this warmth in whimsical touches like the antler chandelier and the unusual floral display in

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PROJECT SOURCES INTERIOR DESIGN Sumner Gray www.sumnergray.com CABINETRY Mark Newman Design in Wood www.marknewman.com WOOD FLOORING Kip’s Hardwood Flooring www.kipshardwood.com STONE & TILE INSTALLATION Venice Genoa Tile www.venicegenoa.com

the dining room. But for Sumner the details don’t just happen. She has a very thorough process that includes creating inspiration boards, more boards that detail furniture and finish options, and doing a series of pen and ink drawings and watercolors.

“I have to think things through,” she said, using the activities to determine how to create seating for 12 in a small living room, how to balance different textures, and how to repurpose existing objects like the O’Neills’ artwork and integrate them into a completely different design aesthetic.

It also helped illuminate how the redesigned spaces could do double duty when necessary. For example, the O’Neills love to cook and entertain family and friends in kitchen, but it also needed to be a place suitable for caterers. The resulting design is spacious and efficient; an uncluttered backdrop that is conveniently connected to the butler’s pantry where there is additional storage and plenty of space for staging during parties. Tucked close by is also an informal eating space where lots of homework gets done.

And while the master suite was also completely remodeled, it’s the place where Sumner retained the art deco feel of the original 1929 house. The mosaic tile dressing the fireplace in the master bedroom, and the marble, glass, mirrors and tile in the master bath are beautifully reminiscent of the art and architecture of the period. And then, there is the gorgeous view from the shower, something quickly becoming a signature element of the SumnerO’Neill design team.

After living with the completed remodel for several months, the O’Neills are thoroughly pleased.

“The flow through the house has improved enormously,” Patrick said. “Certain rooms like the butler’s pantry, master bath and dining room are much more functional, but what we really love is the living room. Heidi was right. Putting the TV in there – and the high-tech cool factor – has made it the hangout place in the house. Barbara really helped us achieve our goal of creating a space where our boys want to be.”

The master bath suite retains the art deco feel of the original 1929 house as the mix of marble, glass and mirrors are reminiscent of the art and architecture of the period. The O’Neills particularly enjoy the Escher-inspired tiling in the shower, which is from Ann Sacks Tile & Stone and installed by Venice Genoa Stone & Tile.

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AMERICAN BEAUTY WRITTEN BY LORI GLEICHMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BLACK STONE EDGE STUDIOS

Family was at the center of most conversations builder Gerald Rowlett and designer Garrison Hullinger had with their clients, Barbara and Andrew Godzyk. “The entire home is oriented around a very busy family,” Rowlett explains.

With three active kids, ages eight to 13, the couple gave four directives in the design and finishing of the 6,100-square foot home that would be showcased in the 2013 Portland Street of Dreams: the kitchen should serve “command central” with views to the great room through to the entry and to the outdoor living space and pool; there would a very open floor plan with no formal spaces because they are not formal people; the design would maximize natural light; and the siting of the home would take advantage of the views to the neighboring ranch and winery.

Rowlett imposed one more requirement himself: as much possible, every element of the home would be “Made in America”.

“I have a buy local, build local approach,” says Rowlett, owner of Westlake Development Group. “I want people to see what they can do for about the same cost. I want them to be willing to ‘build American’ because it’s the right thing to do.”

Builder Gerald Rowlett and Designer Garrison Hullinger achieved everything the Godzyk’s wanted in their Street of Dreams home: the kitchen should serve “command central” with views to the great room through to the entry and to the outdoor living space and pool; there would a very open floor plan with no formal spaces because they are not formal people; the design would maximize natural light and natural stone; and the siting of the home would take advantage of the views to the neighboring ranch and winery.

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The rec room is a favorite place for the family and friends to gather, enjoying the warmth of the signature elements of wood and leather in the room. The vaulted ceiling is made of reclaimed barn wood from Made in Oregon Twice, while the floor-to-ceiling windows allow in plenty of natural light. The oversized Stickely leather sofa from Paul Schatz Furniture is a great place to snuggle in with a book or to watch a movie.

PROJECT SOURCES BUILDER: Westlake Development www.westlakedevelopmentllc.com INTERIOR DESIGN: Garrison Hullinger Interior Design www.garrisonhullinger.com AUDIO/VIDEO: Custom Audio Video kustoav@comcast.net NATURAL STONE: Stone NW www.stonenw.com GRANITE COUNTERTOPS: Infinity Countertops www.infinitycountertops.com LIGHTING & FIXTURES: Chown Hardware www.chownhardware.com STAIN & EXTERIOR PAINT: Rodda Paint www.roddapaint.com

By “right thing to do,” Rowlett means creating jobs, reducing the carbon footprint of home building, and increasing community pride by obtaining things from manufacturers and craftsman that are producing home-building materials and design elements in U.S.-based facilities from U.S. resources.

Thirteen new jobs were created in the building and furnishing of the Godzyks’ home, according to Rowlett. He also estimates that if every builder reallocated just 5 percent of spending to “Made in America” resources, thousands of additional jobs would result, infusing millions and millions of dollars into the American economy. Rowlett believes so passionately in this mission that he created a nonprofit called Building for a Better America Council (buildingforamerica.org) to educate consumers and contractors about the benefits of “Made in America” and to certify American construction. And he recruited Hullinger and the Godzyks to share his vision and promote it in a Street of Dreams home. The result is a comfortable and casually elegant home that is 97 percent “Made in America.”

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LEFT AND BELOW Wood elements dominate the rec room. A custom woodwork surround

by Oregon Custom Cabinets provides plenty of storage for books, movies and CDs. Hullinger carefully designed the space to provide different zones for different activities. A group can be playing pool or waiting their turn on the custom-designed shoe shine bench on one side of the room while others talk quietly in the cozy conversation nook tucked in front of the fireplace. Crafted by Master Woodworks, the hand-forged fireplace is flanked between custom cabinets stained green for a touch of color. BOTTOM Andrew also has private space in a den at the front of the house where he can go to work, watch movies or listen to music. Audio and home entertainment systems were designed by Custom Audio Video. The home’s entry is highlighted by natural stone cut from Montana argulite, sourced locally from Stone NW.

ABOVE Certainly one of the major highlights of this room occurs when the Hunter-Douglas blackout shades go down and surround-sound kicks in for “classic movies” and hot releases shown on a regal 90-inch screen. The home theater was designed and installed by Custom Audio Video.

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According to Rowlett, only a few things were difficult to acquire: light bulbs, microwave ovens, and smoke detectors. Everything else, from “nuts and bolts, to rescued barn wood, to lighting fixtures throughout the house” is sourced from American vendors. “It just takes asking a lot of questions,” says Rowlett. “Did the lumber come from U.S. forests and mills, or from Canada? If the answer is Canada, we keep looking.” He estimates the extra effort only adds about 2 to 3 percent to the cost, but believes home-building using “Made in America” could quickly become cost neutral if more builders were doing the same thing, something he was happy to talk about with people touring the Street of Dreams. In fact, this is the third “Made in America” home that Rowlett and Hullinger, owner of Garrison Hullinger Interior Design, have collaborated on. Hullinger has found that he does not have to compromise on quality orcreative design by limiting his choices to U.S.-based sources, such as doorsmade in Grants Pass, ironwork crafted in Salem, and copper sinks manufactured in Newberg."

At the same time, he had to focus on his clients’ desire for livability and simplicity. The couple also expressed preferences for natural elements, like wood and stone; a very soft and neutral color palette; and clean lines. “They wanted a casual feel that reflected their

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lifestyle; connected spaces that maximized flow; and furnishings and finishes that would stand up to three kids,” Hullinger explained. “And always, the conversation came back to creating spaces that attracted their kids and their kids’ friends.”

As a result, much effort went into perfecting the kitchen, the great room, the rec room upstairs and the outdoor living space and pool areas.From the moment guests enter the front door, there is an expansive view of

TOP LEFT Infinity Countertops fabricated and installed the granite countertops for the home’s kitchen. Dubbed “command central” the kitchen allows Barbara to keep tabs on her children and friends lounging on the patio or playing in the pool. ABOVE Outdoor family space was just as important in the design of the Godzyks’ Street of Dreams home. The design/build team created a beautiful covered patio, which includes seating in front of the wood burning fireplace and TV, while also offering the functionality of an outdoor kitchen. The patio fireplace and columns feature Montana stone from Stone NW’s Western Pacific Thin Veneer line.

the first floor of the home through the great room and to the view of the patio and pool though the floor-to-ceiling sliding doors and windows that let in tons of natural light. The soaring ceilings and open catwalk spanning the entry add to the feeling of openness.

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An Exceptional Experience Custom Home Theater • Flat Screen TV • Multi-Room Audio Systems • Home Automation

The kitchen truly has become the “command central” that Barbara wanted. From a small office tucked in the back or from the curved breakfast bar in the center, she has easy views of and access to the great room, the attached dining space where homework gets done, the covered patio, and the pool.Practicality was another priority.

Tucked between the kitchen and garage is a spacious mudroom that serves as the main landing pad for the kids returning from school or coming home from some activity or another. Study fixtures, simple finishes, and plenty of storage make it the perfect place to take off muddy shoes, unload backpacks, and stash sporting gear.

But if there are two “stars” of the home, they are the rec room upstairs and patio/pool areas outside. Both were designed with family and friends in mind.

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The rec room is broken up into different zones. The large leather sofa faces a big screen TV; a cozy conversation nook is tucked in front of the fireplace; a pool table with extra seating on a custom designed shoe shine bench calls to the competition minded; and a game table and chairs welcome Andrew’s buddies to a friendly game of poker.

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There was a great deal of attention paid to making it a space suitable for large parties, but the abundance of wood, including a ceiling finished with reclaimed barn wood, and rich leather furnishings make it a cozy, comfortable retreat on a rainy afternoon.

In contrast, the covered patio and pool are favorite destinations on sunny days and beautiful warm evenings. According to Rowlett, the pool is “very Bellagio” with custom lighting and fountains. There is also a gas fire pit with seating to watch the sunset, while others can retreat to a covered patio complete with comfortable couches facing a wood-burning fireplace and television. “It’s also a very functional space,” said Rowlett, complete with its own outdoor kitchen, and easy access to and from the house through large sliding doors.

And while the Godzyk’s children were a priority in the design, they

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didn’t forget themselves completely. The master suite is a small but lush space, reminiscent of a stateroom on a luxury cruise liner. While the bedroom is dressed mostly in beige and white, set off by dark accents of wood, there are beautiful views of the patio, pool, landscap-

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ing and ranch beyond giving it a resort feel. Andrew also has private space in a den at the front of the house. It’s a place he can go to work, watch movies or listen to music that, according to Hullinger, is mostly rock and roll, something the kids don’t appreciate.

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Expansive spaces and rich seating welcome family and guests into the living and dining rooms, which form the core of the home. Besides the inviting furnishings, the rooms are bound by a similar muted color palette that lets art work shine and family and friends take center stage.

The colonial-style home is traditionally arranged with public rooms – entry, living, dining, kitchen, family, and sun porch – on the ground floor and the family’s private bedroom spaces upstairs.

BACK TO THE FUTURE In Portland’s Westover neighborhood, a couple labors to bring a 1915 colonial-style home back to its original splendor while modernizing it for a twenty-first century family and injecting it with some 2013 joie de vivre.

WRITTEN BY STEPHANIE BOYLE MAYS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID PAPAZIAN

A

ll things come to those who wait. Mark Lerner had

admired his 1915 colonial for years before he and his wife LeAnne bought it. “I’m a big fan of colonial style, and we had been living in a real cutting edge

condo in the Pearl,” explained Lerner. “I thought; let’s try something different.”

Over the years, previous owners had left bits of their own taste and eras behind, and one of the Lerners’ first goals was to restore the home to its former self.

“The house had some legs; it has history,” said Lerner, “and we really wanted to get back to the original form. The kind of workmanship and materials that went into this house just aren’t available anymore.”

The Lerners first consulted with Portland-based preservation architect William Hawkins. With no original plans to guide them, Hawkins was invaluable in discerning what the house may have looked like originally and what features may have been lost over the years. With ideas of how to restore the home, the next challenge became how to create a circa 1915 home that was appropriate to living in the twenty-first century. At the time the home was built, closets were smaller, only servants went into the kitchen, and there was certainly no consideration for wifi.

To help build the bridge across the century, the Lerners turned to Joelle Nesen, owner and principle designer at Maison Inc. “We like to think of our design style as classic with a twist, and this home was just crying to be brought back to its bones,” said Nesen.

The work on the home progressed in two stages: one was to restore the bones and the other was to dress them. In stage one, beams were replaced, windows were restored, moldings were refashioned and floors were refinished. The most structurally significant step of this phase was removing an elevator that cut vertically through the house. With the elevator gone, an awkwardly placed staircase could also be moved and the newly vacated square footage could be annexed by other rooms to improve the flow for a twenty-first century family.

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The fully remodeled kitchen takes advantage of the extra space made available by the removal of the elevator and reconfigured staircase. The kitchen is a prime example of returning to the home’s 1915 birth but doing so with modern conveniences and a twenty-first century lifestyle in mind: to wed then and now, stainless steel appliances were mated with marble counter tops and classic panel-style cabinetry. Wire mesh inserts in upper cabinets help promote the room’s open and airy feel.

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Sitting off the living room, the sunroom offers a refuge from the rest of the first floor’s public areas. Walls of windows bring in light, while the consistent use of black frames and white mats unite the varied pieces of art work that line the room’s perimeter. The black and white from the frames is echoed in the room’s cow hide rug.

The expanded space was most readily used by the kitchen, which was enlarged and opened to better suit contemporary living habits.

To fit stylistically with the rest of the home, its fittings were given a traditional look with a spin: Old Style panel cabinets were outfitted with wire mesh insets and hardware from Chown; the counters were topped in Calcatta Gold marble (which provides the optimal surface for the creations of LeAnne, the family baker).

Lantern lighting is in the Chelsea Smoke Bells line from Visual Comfort (through Maison Inc.). Stainless steel appliances from Basco provide a modern counter point to the rest of the room’s more traditional design.

“We had to be respectful of the house and its architecture,” said Nesen, “but we had to do it without being staid.”

A strategy with which the Lerners concurred: “We didn’t want to live in a colonial cliché,” said Lerner. “I want people to say I haven’t seen that done before—and I know that can be good or bad—but still I want it to be a little unusual.”

Throughout the rest of the first floor, Nesen balanced clean lines and textures with the home’s classic elements. In the living room, straight lined chairs are from Mad Furniture. Upholstered in mohair, they face each other across a coffee table made of vintage waterfall goatskin from 1stdibs (through Maison). On the mantle, a cement frame holds a vintage mirror. At the far side of the living room, French doors lead to a sun porch furnished with a custommade day bed and cow hides on the floor.

The blending of old and new continues into the dining room. A 1940’s chandelier hangs above a contemporary table, which sits on a wool carpet cut with lines to resemble the horizon. Vintage chairs are covered in Asher leather and traditional sconces flank the artwork “Haystacks” by Brazilian artist Vic Muniz.

In the entry, Nesen used grass cloth to paper the foyer and the square spiraling staircase to create a transition between the main floor and upstairs. Elsewhere throughout the house, Nesen strategically used muted paint colors to create a backdrop for the family’s art collection. “It was very clever,” said Lerner, “she used

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PROJECT SOURCES ARCHITECT: William J. Hawkins III INTERIOR DESIGN: Maison Inc. www.maisoninc.com APPLIANCES: BASCO www.bascoappliances.com HARDWARE: Chown Hardware www.chownhardware.com FLOOR TILE: Ann Sacks Tile & Stone www.annsacks.com 82

PortraitMagazine.com

Stretching along the back of the house on the second floor, the master ensuite bathroom—once an immense, cold and echo-filled space—was divided into three smaller rooms for the shower, water closet, and bath and vanities.The revamped space provides much more privacy along with a spa-like intimacy.

subtle variations of the same hue or sheen to mix it up. But then we could accent the rooms with art. Everything become logically and visually integrated.”

Upstairs, the master bed room and bath were also remodeled. The bedroom gained a new fireplace and the bath was divided into three areas to provide more privacy and better function. As with the other areas, furnishing and fittings are a blend of old and new. In the bedroom, traditional moldings, windows and other features are mixed with a custom bed from Mad Furniture upholstered in ivory leather, nightstands from Tritter Feefer, and lamps from Arteriors.

For all that’s been accomplished, there is still more work to be done.

“We have yet to do the top floor,” said Lerner, “that will be a little tricky. I think it was originally the servants’ quarters; the materials are not as grand as they are in the rest of the house.” And there are new projects to contemplate.

“Now I’ve bought a home in old Palm Springs,” said Lerner of this future plans. “That will need to be put back into what it wants to be, and Joelle will figure largely in that, too.”

The entry opens to the center of the house. Use of the original flooring in the living and dining rooms and foyer joins the spaces horizontally, while the use of the same grass cloth in the entry and on the walls that line the open stairway connects the space vertically. The owners strove to preserve many of the original details of the home such as the flooring, moldings and windows during the remodel.

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Portland’s House of Fire Since 1947

Family-owned and operated in the NW for over 60 years.

A typical day for chef Greg Higgins begins at the crack of dawn and can entail butchering a pig, then making salami and sausages—or baking bread and making cheese. Also an enthusiastic forager, the chef hosts a five-course wild mushroom feast each autumn with creative fare ranging from forest mushroom cappuccino to candy cap mushroom panna cotta.

PEAK SEASON WRITTEN BY KERRY NEWBERRY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN VALLS

“One of the most delightful things about a garden is the anticipation it provides,” wrote English author W.E. Johns.

This anticipation, plus insatiable curiosity and creativity is why you’ll find chef Greg Higgins in his home garden rain or shine, summer through winter. “It’s become a lifestyle,” says Higgins, the godfather of farm-to-table dining in Portland—which he has been cooking up at his eponymous downtown restaurant Higgins for nearly two decades.

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“IT’S MUCH MORE EXCITING FOR ME TO COOK WITH FOOD WHEN I KNOW WHERE IT CAME FROM AND WHAT IT TOOK TO GET IT TO THE KITCHEN” SAYS HIGGINS. “WHETHER IT’S AT HOME, OR AT THE RESTAURANT.” HIGGINS GREW UP IN A SMALL FARM TOWN OUTSIDE OF BUFFALO, NEW YORK. “WE HAD A BIG FAMILY GARDEN AND I WORKED ON FARMS AS A KID,” HE SAYS. “I WAS ALWAYS CLOSE TO HOW FOOD GREW.”

When the chef was cooking in Seattle in the 1980’s, he met Angelo Pelligrini, a Washington State University professor and author of books advocating for fresh, simple ingredients and the pleasures of growing and making your own food and wine. His first book, The Unprejudiced Palate was published in 1948 and is still touted as a classic by great chefs today.

Pelligrini had an amazing house with the ultimate peasant garden, says Higgins, lush multi-layered tiers of edible plants, shrubs, fruit trees, herbs and ornamentals. “I was inspired by him and thought when I have a house I’m going to do what he did,” he adds. In his backyard, Higgins has created more than a prolific kitchen garden, he’s architected a Zen-like oasis. Mystical statues from travels across the globe (think China, Japan, Morocco) peek from leafy edibles sprouting in pots.

A wanderlust in the name of food, Higgins has cooked in kitchens around the world. Two years ago, he ventured to Mongolia when the aid agency Mercy Corps asked him to spend three weeks teaching sausage and charcuterie-making to cooks—a journey, that like the garden, sparked ideas for dishes with an exotic touch.

Devotees of the downtown restaurant may already know that heirloom chili peppers are one of his secret ingredients—it’s the flavor you just can’t put your finger on. “We make an orange and chili-infused ice cream that’s mind blowing, it tastes like a rare tropical fruit,” says Higgins. Every savory dish in the restaurant contains chili peppers of one sort or another— from the fruity fatalii to the herbal aji dulce.

ABOVE The sophisticated dining room at Higgins Restaurant and Bar, a landmark restaurant for farm-to-table dining evokes Old World charm. Located in Downtown Portland www.higginsportland.com

“To me they are one of the trinities of basic flavor,” he explains, “chili, garlic and olive oil.” For two decades, Higgins has collected seeds for rare and heirloom chili peppers. Every February he plants a half-acre garden at home for test cropping with about 600 chili and tomato plants as seedlings, all pure varieties.

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RECIPE ONLINE! PortraitMagazine.com/recipes

Carman ranCh grass fed rib eye steaks with pepperonata

“I’m crazy for rare varieties of tomatoes and peppers,”

to a vibrant yuzu plant, a highly fragrant Japanese citrus

he says. He saves seeds from the chili plants he’s excited

fruit not commonly found in Pacific Northwest gardens.

about, passing them on to growers to expand production

“It’s a curiosity.” Note: a sensational Sichuan pepper also

the following year. “It’s a philosophy,” says Higgins, “I be-

bursting nearby.

lieve in the whole cycle of food, from seed to table and back.”

In addition to a medley of potted citrus, waxy green pardón peppers and his tanks of chili peppers, Higgins tends to

The remaining starts he gives to employees, and customers,

three olive trees—one, the Arbequina, was a gift from a

to spread the gospel of gardening. “Even if they just have a

Growing Gardens fundraiser dinner ten years ago. His two-

porch—put it in a bigger pot, water it, take care of it, see

acre terraced garden springs with basics, too, from aspara-

what you get,” he says. “I like to get people to know where

gus to zucchini.

there food comes from. This is my way to connect.”

Try this, he says, as he plucks a heart-shaped leaf from an-

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The garden, for Higgins, is an incubator for the restaurant

other heat-loving plant thriving in his garden. It’s Malabar,

and hard-to-find ingredients. “I don’t know what it is, but

a plant that hails from the tropics with leaves that taste like

I have this fascination with growing things I really

a cross between spinach and okra. “The flower buds pickle

shouldn’t be able to grow,” says Higgins, as he stands next

into tasty little morsels,” says Higgins.

LEFT From garden to plate, roasted eggplant & garlic timbale with Aji Dulce coulis and tomato salad. RIGHT Greg Higgins harvests from his greenhouse just before dinner, a nightly ritual for the chef when he cooks at home. “This is my play box, my place where I experiment with varieties of things I can’t find,” he says. Each year, he chronicles his extensive, year round organic vegetable garden in a journal. BELOW The chef collects seeds from rare variety chilis, a storied ingredient he covets for the flavor diversity.

RECIPE ONLINE! PortraitMagazine.com/recipes

The chef continues the tour, winding around a 75-year old apple tree, with squat knotty trunks, the flush pink blossoms a summer memory. When the apple tree loses leaves, these beds are bathed by winter sunlight, says Higgins, as he points to black earth that will sprout green in a few months with leeks, kale, artichokes, overwintering broccoli and cardoons.

The exquisitely landscaped garden is fluid, and texturally flows like a Monet painting. “I’m always thinking of things overlapping, not sequentially,” says Higgins. “Because of my background in art, I’m very much of a relational thinker.” Many lessons have been gleaned from working the soil over the past twenty years; after two decades you really get to know what you can and can’t do, he says.

In that sense, “gardening is also a story of failures,” says Higgins. “That’s how you learn. You learn when the plants thrive, but you also learn dramatically when they fail. When you are in one place long enough, you really get more of a hold on that.”

The tranquil flow of water streams from a Zen-like fountain, in tune to the pitter-patter of the family corgi walking by. Higgins steps under the pergola he built from repurposed barrel fermenters—where in the springtime, purple wisteria blooms tumble from the beams. He stokes a warm fire from the pièce de résistance of the garden patio—a wood-fired oven for his bread-making and impromptu pizza nights.

As he begins kneading dough for flatbreads (one component to a Mediterranean feast that evening) he muses about the role the garden plays in the restaurant. “We can be out picking mushrooms, come home and look in the garden and decide we’ll pair this with that,” he says.

Eventually, the most memorable dishes will end up in the restaurant. “Dinner for us and our friends then turns into dinner for the city of Portland.”

baba ghanouj INGREDIENTS 24 oz.

Eggplant

2 ea.

Anaheim chilies

2 Tbsp

Garlic, minced

1/2 Tbsp Cumin 1/4 cup

Tahini

2 Tbsp

Mint leaves, minced

1/4 cup

Lemon juice

2 Tbsp.

Olive oil

T.T.

Salt & pepper

PREPARATION Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and brush with olive oil season with salt & pepper. Brush the peppers with olive oil.

Grill the eggplant and peppers on a BBQ or broiler until well charred and tender. Peel the eggplant and peppers and remove the seeds from the chillies. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and purée to desired consistency. Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt & pepper.

Pita bRead

(Yields 4 pitas)

INGREDIENTS 2 cup

All purpose flour

1/2 Tbsp Salt 1/2 tsp

Dry active yeast

3/4 cup

Water - 95 degrees

PREPARATION In a bowl or mixer combine the dry ingredients and water - mix

Roast loin of oRegon albacoRe with PadRon chillies

bowl and wipe clean with a moist towel. Cover the bowl and allow to rest one hour in a warm spot. Use a wet plastic spatula to loosen the dough from the bowl. Wet your hands with water

(Yields 4 to 6 portions)

and fold the dough back over itself to begin to form a smooth

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

surface. Repeat this pulling/folding motion 2-3 times and then

2 lbs

Oregon Albacore loin

Combine the olive oil, garlic, pimenton and

cover the bowl and allow to rest. Every 30 minutes repeat the

1/4 cup

Olive oil

3 Tbsp

Garlic, minced

1 Tbsp

Pimenton

3 tsp

Cumin

the the chilies to a shallow roasting pan and

24 oz

Padrón chillies, seeded and julienne cut

roast in a preheated 450 degree oven until the

T.T.

Salt & pepper

cumin - brush the tuna loin with the mixture and season with salt & pepper. Mix the julienne Padróns with the remaining olive oil mixture and season with salt & pepper. Transfer

peppers begin to soften - 3-5 minutes.

Place the Albacore loin onto the bed of chilies and roast in the hot oven turn the loin once or twice to ensure even cooking 5-7 minutes.

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evenly to eliminate any lumps. Scrape down the sides of the

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process - taking note of how the dough is gradually proofing and getting smoother and more elastic each time. By the third or fourth turn (1.5-2 hours) the dough should be very smooth, supple and ready to portion. Turn the dough out onto a well floured board and portion into four equal pieces. Round the portions into balls and flour well - cover loosely with a clean towel and allow to rest 15 minutes. Flour the board well and roll a ball of dough out into a circle 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal and transfer the rolled out dough to it. Slide the pita dough round onto a pizza stone in a preheated 425 degree oven. Bake till puffy and lightly browned 7-10

Carve the loin with a sharp knife and serve

minutes - repeat the rolling and baking procedure with the

over the roasted Padróns with the pan juices.

remaining dough portions.

At home and in the restaurant kitchen, Greg Higgins uses Padrón peppers to enhance a dish, pictured here is a roast loin of Oregon Albacore. The small green peppers are traditionally grown in Padrón, Galicia, a green and rain-soaked pocket in northwest Spain. The peppers pop with flavor but not heat. Though, there is a Spanish saying,“Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non” meaning, some are hot and some are not. The delicious pepper is worth the risk.

MuhuMMaRa - Roasted PePPeR & walnut diP INGREDIENTS

1/2 tsp

Cumin

3 ea.

Sweet red peppers

1 Tbsp

Lemon zest - minced

1 ea.

Onion - peeled & diced

1 Tbsp

Pimenton

3/4 cup

Walnuts - toasted & chopped

2 Tbsp

Pomegranate molasses

2 Tbsp

Garlic - minced

T.T.

Salt & pepper

1/4 cup

Olive oil

T.T.

Hot sauce

PREPARATION Roast the peppers on a BBQ grill or broiler and when cool, peel, seed and chop them. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse them to a coarse purĂŠe. Adjust the seasoning to taste with hot sauce, salt and pepper.

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LEFT Rounds of made-from-scratch pita dough ready for the wood-fired oven. On Monday nights, the chef often makes pizza, then rises early the next day to begin baking breads using stored heat from the night before. He pulls out his iPhone to flip through bread photos ranging from whole wheat levain and rustic sourdough to ciabatta. RIGHT The pièce de résistance of the garden is a gorgeous wood-fired oven Higgins constructed, adorned with hand-built boar art the chef made with clay. “This is therapy,” he says, “playing with clay and playing with food.”

garden PICK A PEPPER

Pepper Fanciers can be among the most zealous of veggie gardeners. And with good reason, easy to plant and grow peppers offer some of the summer garden’s biggest flavors and brightest hues.

hot toPic Peppers to Try (1) LONG THIN CAYENNE PEPPER 90 days to red.

Long Thin Cayenne has been a dependable producer in home gardens for years. Bushy 26 inch tall plants produce slim, green, 4 to 6 inch long fruit that turn red when ripe. Very hot and colorful when used as a dried pepper. (2) RED RUFFLED PEPPER-ORGANIC 85 days. A captivating pepper, thick, meaty flesh has a distinctive, pleasantly sweet flavor. The 3 1/2 inch wide and 2 inch tall peppers turn from deep green to bright red when ripe, and adorn healthy, upright plants.

Sliced into cross-sections, these peppers make tasty additions to salads, or stuff and serve for a dainty side dish. (3) BULGARIAN CARROT PEPPER 70-80 days. The 18-inch tall plant will produce clusters of peppers that are 3 1/2 inches long, and ripen from green to fluorescent orange. Its real gift is an intense fruity flavor, which finishes hot.

Crunchy flesh is perfect for roasting, but the flavor is superb for pickles, salsas, chutney, and marinades. (4) ANAHEIM COLLEGE PEPPER 74 days.

If you like a mild to medium sizzle for your palate, try these peppers. Same as the green Anaheim chilies you find in the grocery store, but better because you'll get to eat them fresh and full of flavor!

The thick-walled conical fruit turn from green to red. Excellent roasted and stuffed or minced into salsa and guacamole. (5) MINIATURE CHOCOLATE BELL PEPPER 55 days. This impressive miniature bell really pumps out the peppers! The chocolate 3-lobed fruit are 2 1/2 inches wide by 1 1/4 inches long. Very sweet, and excellent on veggie platters, in salads, stuffed, or cored and eaten whole.

(6) JIMMY NARDELLO'S PEPPER 75 days. An almost uncanny sweet, fruity flavor makes these peppers tempting and delightful eaten straight off the plant, but traditional Italian cuisine typically uses them for frying. Jimmy Nardello's has consistently been one of the first peppers in our trials to ripen, beginning green and ripening to red. The long, slender fruit will easily reach 6-9 inches.

Super productive, disease-resistant plants.

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1

3 4

2 5

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For more information visit www.territorialseed.com Cornell Farm also offers a great selection of pepper plants (in season) and always is on-hand for growing advice. www.cornellfarms.com

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by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (Ten Speed Press, September 2013)

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Walla Walla Valley

APPELLATION

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IT SEEMS EVERY PLACE IN AMERICA THAT’S CAPABLE OF GROWING A WINE GRAPE THINKS OF ITSELF AS THE “NEXT NAPA VALLEY”.

WELL, GOOD LUCK TO THEM—THE REAL NEXT NAPA IS WASHINGTON’S WALLA WALLA VALLEY!

Written by Cole Danehower

Walla Walla has everything you’d want in a premier wine country destination: critically acclaimed wine (75% of the appellation’s bottles regularly score 90 points or above in Wine Spectator), a charming historical and rural town (an early Walla Walla newspaper wrote about the city’s “new” grape culture as early as 1871), beautiful scenic vistas (albeit of a more desert-y, Old West sort than Napa), and over 100 wineries offering wine touring experiences that range in style from intimate to arty to grandiose. If this is beginning to sound like Napa, consider also what Walla Walla thankfully lacks: the crowded highways and backroads, smelly bus tours, inflated prices, and pretentious attitudes often associated with Napa.

Oh, and did I mention the dynamite dining options, lovely inns, inspiring art galleries, and easy likelihood of bumping into some of the country’s most celebrated winemakers in their tasting rooms or on Walla Walla sidewalks (including some who are legitimate celebrities outside of their wine labels, like actor Kyle MacLachlan, or football great Drew Bledsoe)?

Or the fact that all this wine country splendor is an easy 4 hour-ish drive from either Portland or Seattle? What’s not to love about Walla Walla?

Cole Danehower Winner: James Beard Foundation Journalism Award; Publisher: EssentialNorthwestWines.com; Author: Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest Read Cole’s blog at: EssentialNorthwestWines.com

Twenty-six vintages of Woodward Canyon Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon.

Grape vines at Spring Valley Vineyard shine against rolling wheat fields.

Canoe Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in August.

Wineries & Vineyards

WHEN THE WALLA WALLA WINE ALLIANCE kicked off their first annual Celebrate Walla Walla Wine event this past summer with a panel discussion and tasting comparing Walla Walla and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, flocks of national press and Napa winery owners attended, some flying into town on their private jets. There’s no doubt about it, Walla Walla is among the hottest (literally and figuratively) wine country destinations in the New World—and it’s right in our backyard!

Located in southeastern Washington and straddling the border between Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area, or wine appellation) was established in 1984. For a long time there was only a handful of wineries in this relatively remote region—but they were wineries garnering a lot of critical attention, including Leonetti Cellar, Woodward Canyon, L’Ecole No. 41, and Seven Hills. As modern pioneers, they proved that the reliably warm and dry climate was especially suited for bold red wines (think Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah), though plenty of other grape varieties are grown here as well. By the late 1990s their success was attracting new winemakers to the region, and the pace has accelerated until today there are nearly 150 wineries in the appellation.

The best way to discover the treasures of Walla Walla is to explore for yourself, but with touring time always limited, it might be helpful to have some suggestions of where to taste, eat and stay. The recommendations that follow will give you a great Walla Walla experience, but keep in mind that this is not a comprehensive guide; throughout the area there are other great wineries and experiences to discover, so start exploring!

WEST SIDE WINERIES OF NOTE A good place to start is along Highway 12 west of town—the road route most commonly taken into Walla Walla by visitors. A clutch of wineries here offer a taste of some of the region’s best.

Among the first wineries you meet will be the second winery established in Walla Walla: Woodward Canyon woodwardcanyon.com. One of Washington’s true prestige producers, owners Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small welcome drop-in visitors to their tasting room in a restored 1870s farmhouse.

Known in particular for their succulent Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, true aficionados should consider making a reservation for an intimate Reserve House tasting of the winery’s limited release wines. Their “Old Vines” Cabernet Sauvignon is a particular favorite.

Nearly next door is another key Washington winery, L’Ecole No. 41 lecole.com. Located in a charming historic school building, your visit will be memorable thanks both to the wine quality and the attentive service. Be sure to taste the estate-grown Apogee and Perigee Bordeaux-style blends for superb examples of Walla Walla style—and the Estate Luminesce is an unusually good Sémillon-based white blend.

A little further down the road you’ll encounter Waterbrook waterbrook.com, another of the region’s

Explore Walla Walla with Mobile Wine Tour Turn by turn directions, tasting room hours and varietal listings are just a tap away on your smart phone, or view on the web at: wallawallamobilewinetour.com

Tourism Walla Walla

poured in an architecturally enticing setting. Plan on spending a little time here to enjoy the wine, the

Visitor Information

view, and the tasting room’s camaraderie!

877.998.4748 or wallawalla.org

© John Valls

earliest wineries, but today dramatically modernized and offering a range of wines at all price levels,

FACING PAGE The Inn at Abeja is one of Walla Walla’s most beautiful properties and is also home to Abeja Winery. ABOVE LEFT Third generation winegrower Jean François Pellet is one of Walla Walla Valley’s most experienced

and respected winemakers. As partner and winemaker at Pepper Bridge Winery and Amavi Cellars, he has crafted some of the region’s most respected wines, from cabernet sauvignon and

merlot to syrah and sémillon.

CENTER Pepper Bridge Winery’s cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and red blend wines are perennially popular. ABOVE RIGHT The tasting room at L’Ecole No. 41.

The Walla Walla Valley AVA totals 504 square miles and 322,794 acres — 69% of the AVA is in Washington, 31% in Oregon.

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In the same neighborhood off of Highway 12, Long Shadows longshadows.com is a must-visit for the true connoisseur. This unique, high-end wine venture is the inspiration of Washington wine legend Allen Shoup and brings some of the world’s most famous winemakers to Walla Walla to make their style of wine here. The wines are rare and impressive, the tasting room artful and sophisticated. If that’s your style, contact the winery to make a tasting appointment. You won’t regret it.

DOWNTOWN WINERIES TO TRY Continuing along Highway 12 takes you into downtown Walla Walla where you’ll discover a burgeoning center of tasting rooms that offer a wide range of wine types and styles. While a random exploration can be fun, simply wandering the blocks poking in at any and all tasting rooms that strike your fancy, here are some personal favorites to get you started.

The unique Foundry Vineyards foundryvineyards.com, created by Mark and Patty Anderson, is a compelling combination winery, tasting room, and expressive art gallery. Mark also created the neighboring Walla Walla Foundry, an internationally acclaimed metal art foundry, and since he has farmed estate wine grapes since 1998 it only seemed natural to meld the two businesses. Wine, after all, is often compared to art. When you visit, taste the 2009 Artisan Blend and Artisan Cabernet Sauvignon, both high-scoring, plush and expressive Walla Walla wines.

Gramercy Cellars gramercycellars.com is a small winery that has quickly achieved a big national reputation, including being named “Best New Winery” by Food & Wine magazine. Founder and winemaker Greg Harrington was the youngest person to achieve Master Sommelier certification, and has an extensive wine background. His skills are on display well in the luscious Syrah wines he makes, but also sample his distinctively delicious Grenache and Tempranillo. But be aware, the tasting room is only open on

© John Valls

Saturdays without a reservation.

Explorers Lewis and Clark arrived in the Walla Walla Valley in 1806. By the 1870s grapes were being cultivated in Walla Walla

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ABOVE LEFT The uniquelydesigned tasting room at Amavi Cellars offers romantic views of the estate vineyards.CENTER Exuberant Walla Walla Valley winemaker Charles Smith makes highly sought-after wines.

ABOVE RIGHT At Foundry Vineyards, the eclectic art gallery and tasting room, winemaker Justin Basel (l) and general manager Jay Anderson (r) craft art-inspired wines from estate vineyards planted in 1998.

FACING PAGE Allen Shoup, founder of Long Shadows, is a Washington wine legend. The Long Shadows Chihuly Tasting Room features glass from the renowned Washington artist.

© Joann Arruda

Bergevin Lane bergevinlane.com offers a delicious tasting experience.

This woman-run winery (Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane) is garnering plenty of plaudits for their refined and alluring wines. The provocative She-Devil Chardonnay is a delight, while the Intuition red blend is scrumptious.

Two must-visit tasting rooms are Seven Hills Winery sevenhillswinery.com and Spring Valley Vineyard springvalleyvineyard.com. Seven Hills is one of Walla Walla’s founding wineries, and owner/winemaker Casey McClellan’s reds are particularly polished, balanced and tasty. In the same category for me is Spring Valley, who—unlike the majority of Washington’s wineries—uses only estate-grown fruit. Winemaker Serge Laville makes stylish and layered Bordeaux-style reds and a lush Syrah that are emblematic of Walla Walla style.

Though you need to make a reservation, Doubleback doubleback.com offers a memorable tasting experience. Football star Drew Bledsoe began his boutique winery in 2007 as he retired from the NFL, teaming with © Richard DuVal

friend and expert winemaker Chris Figgins (of Leonetti Cellar fame).

Though not inexpensive, the Cabernet Sauvignon is incredibly dense,

Join over 60 Walla Walla Valley winemakers, three internationally known guest winemakers from California, Australia, and France, and well known wine critics in exploring one of the world’s most distinct red wine grape varieties – Syrah.

fruity, long-lasting—and a rare treat.

Walla Walla abounds in small wineries doing interesting things.

Flying Trout flyingtroutwines.com is the Walla Walla and Mendoza, Argentina-based winery of Ashley Trout, also winemaker for Tero Estates teroestates.com. Their joint wine shop/tasting room (inside the Marcus

Tickets 509.526.3117 l wallawallawine.com/celebrate

Whitman Hotel) offers strong versions of the expected regional red grapes from Tero, as well as the unusual opportunity to taste Ashley’s signature Torrontes, a delightful Argentinian aromatic white wine, and Malbec.

Cadaretta cadaretta.com is a high-quality producer offering estate-grown wines worth seeking out. Their SBS white blend (Sauvignon Blanc/ Sémillon) is particularly fresh and crisp, and the Windthrow red blend is equally superb. Otis Kenyon otiskenyonwine.com is another up-and-coming quality small producer of well-made and tasty Merlot, Cabernets, and the more unusual Carmenère. Kerloo Cellars kerloocellars.com A new boutique winery that is garnering lots of attention is Kerloo Cellars. Their handcrafted wines, especially their Syrahs, are receiving rave reviews and high scores, making a visit to their tasting room mandatory to see the cutting edge of Walla Walla wine.

EAST SIDE WINERIES A fruitful concentration of tasting rooms lies east of downtown. Especially around the airport, many intriguing producers have set up shop in 1940s- and 1950s-vintage buildings. Do spend time exploring this surprisingly rich population of tasting rooms—there are many others besides the few I suggest. And also be sure to drive out further along Mill Creek Road for a taste of rural Walla Walla wine at its best.

Tamarack Cellars tamarackcellars.com is a great place to start exploring.

Founder Ron Coleman and winemaker Danny Gordon produce a popular value-priced blend called Firehouse Red—worth the visit alone—but their mouthwatering (and very limited release) single vineyard Bordeauxstyle blends are among the best in the AVA.

TOP LEFT (l-r) Michael Corliss, Griffin Frey, and Andrew Trio of Corliss Estates, one of Walla Walla’s exclusive, boutique wineries producing top wines. BELOW Cayuse Vineyards is famed for its biodynamic techniques (a kind of super-organic farming) that includes the use of non-mechanical horsepower in the vineyard, which is especially useful in the heavy cobblestone soils at their vineyards. RIGHT Like Corliss and Cayuse, Figgins is one of Walla Walla’s most prestigious wineries crafting highly sought-after wines. Mailing list members are invited to wonderful winemaker dinners in the vineyard.

“Cayuse is no longer a secret and it may be America’s toughest mailing list to crack.... but do whatever it takes to get your hands on a few of these gems.”

—Jay Miller, The Wine Advocate

CULT

FAVORITES

Though some of Washington’s most acclaimed and publicized wineries call Walla Walla home, don’t plan on dropping in for an impromptu tour. Prestige names such as Leonetti Cellar leonetticellar.com, Cayuse cayusevineyards.com, Figgins figginsfamily.com, Abeja abeja.net and Corliss corlissestates.com, are all examples of what might be called “members only” wineries. Because of the brilliance, rarity, and demand for their wines it is simply impractical for them to maintain public tasting rooms. So if you aren’t on these wineries’ allocation lists, you will likely have to settle for tasting their wines at a local restaurant or during a rare public event like the annual Celebrate Walla Walla wallawallwines.com/celebrate. Still, it can’t hurt to call!

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Waterbrook Vineyard Acclaimed Buty Winery butywinery.com is a top-quality boutique label making finely-honed wines from estate vines in Walla Walla, as well as leading vineyards in other AVA’s (I’m a particular fan

producer you should visit, especially for their top-scoring Cabernet

WHATEVER your STYLE EXPERIENCE our WALLA WALLA

Sauvignon. Finally, Mannina Cellars manninacellars.com and

INDULGE YOURSELF IN OUR GRACIOUS HOSPITALITY

owner/winemaker Don Redman is a new winery making waves with

WALLA WALLA’S BED & BREAKFAST INNS

of their Rediviva of the Stones blend). Similarly, Eric Dunham’s Dunham Cellars dunhamcellars.com is another premier craft

great wines; especially try the Cali Red Blend for a sumptuous treat.

Further east, along Mill Creek Road, K Vintners kvintners.com is part of the Charles Smith wine “empire”. A marketing-savvy winemaker and former rock band manager, Smith’s various labels have attracted great publicity and top scores (you can also visit his Charles Smith tasting room downtown). Known for his eccentric labels and intense wines, a stop into this more rural tasting room is always a fun experience.

Just down the road, Abeja abeja.net is an elegantly impressive Inn and Winery with more than a touch of sophistication. Winemaker John Abbott crafts stellar Cabernet Sauvignon here, and the Inn is a stunning base from which to explore Walla Walla. A great reason to stay here is the fact that the winery, which is not open to the public, is open to Inn guests.

A little further east, àMaurice Cellars amaurice.com is a more boutique family estate winery worth the small extra drive. Open on Saturdays and by appointment, winemaker Anna Schafer produces silky red blends, a tremendous Viognier, and other strong wines.

SOUTH SIDE TASTING ROOMS A visit to the wineries south of town will complete your tour.

Pepper Bridge pepperbridge.com and Amavi amavicellars.com are sister wineries (the well-known Jean François-Pellet is head winemaker for both) producing top-quality wines. Pepper Bridge is a highly-respected maker of age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Bordeaux-style red blends, while Amavi focuses on Syrah, Sémillon and more immediately accessible Cabernet.

WWW.WALLAWALLABNB.COM

Walla Walla Valley

Soil Types

+

Wine flavors can be influenced by soil types. Here are the predominant soils in the Walla Walla Valley.

SOIL TYPE 1: Wind-deposited silt (loess) overlying Missoula flood sediments LOCATION: Valley floor REPRESENTATIVE SOIL SERIES: Ellisforde silt loam EXAMPLE VINEYARDS: Pepper Bridge, Birch Creek, Lower Seven Hills, Windrow SOIL TYPE 2: Thick wind-deposited silt (loess) overlying basalt bedrock LOCATION: Foothills Representative Soil Series: Walla Walla silt loam EXAMPLE VINEYARDS: Les Collines, Leonetti Loess, Spring Valley, Sevein SOIL TYPE 3: Basalt cobblestone gravels LOCATION: floodplains of Walla Walla River and Mill Creek near cities of Milton-Freewater and Walla Walla REPRESENTATIVE SOIL SERIES: Freewater very cobbly loam EXAMPLE VINEYARDS: Cayuse Armada, Zerba Winesap, Waliser Yellowjacket SOIL TYPE 4: Very thin wind-deposited silt (loess) on basalt bedrock LOCATION: Steep slopes in foothills and canyons REPRESENTATIVE SOIL SERIES: Lickskillet very stony loam source: wallawallawine.com

GETTING

THERE

DRIVING From either Portland or Seattle, Walla Walla is a little over 4-hours away by car (except in winter!), but it is an easy and scenic drive from either city..

FROM PORTLAND Head east on I-84 along the Columbia River to exit 179, get on I-82 toward Hermiston/ Umatilla. Follow the signs for US-73 East, and then the signs for US-12 East until you reach downtown Walla Walla.

FROM SEATTLE Take I-90 east, over the Cascade Range to Ellensburg, then I-82 south through Yakima to US-12 East, in Pasco. Stay on US-12 East until you reach Walla Walla.

BY AIR Alaska Airlines flies from Portland to Walla Walla with a connection through Seattle. Fares depend, but range from around $190 to $300.

If Merlot is your métier, then Northstar northstarwinery.com is a great place to taste just how good Washington Merlot can be.

Winemaker David “Merf” Merfeld has a Merlot mission and both his estate Walla Walla Valley and Columbia Valley Merlots are excellent. If you’re very lucky, you may get to sample his Premier Merlot, made in tiny quantities from the region’s best vineyards.

While nearby Dusted Valley Vintners dustedvalley.com also produces excellent Merlot, this fast-rising Walla Walla Valley star is better known for their intense and ripe Syrahs (with attention-getting names such as Squirrel Tooth Alice, and Stained Tooth Syrah)—though do try their Old Vine Chardonnay for a different treat.

Sleight of Hand Cellars sofhcellars.com features some of the most whimsical wine labels in the region, yet winemaker Trey Busch is serious about performing his magic to craft a series of well-made and affordable wines (I really like his red blend called The Spellbinder). Nearby Waters Winery waterswinery.com focuses on serious, intense, and well-structured small production wines that show plenty of elegance and food affinity. I’m particularly impressed by their 21 Grams bottling, a Cabernet-dominant blend.

One of the tidy little secrets of Walla Walla Valley wines is that many of the best vineyards in the appellation are located on the Oregon side of the border. Ironically, there are only a few Oregon-located wineries, however. One not to be missed is Zerba Cellars zerbacellars.com, just over the border in Milton-Freewater. Known for wines of power and beauty, they are also now producing a wide range of varieties. Be sure to try their unusual Nebbiolo, Marsanne, and Roussanne wines.

Now, that should be enough winery recommendations to get you started! But remember, we have only scratched the surface of Walla Walla wine touring—there are many other tasting rooms awaiting your discovery... you’ll just have to plan extra trips to get the full flavor of the appellation.

FACING PAGE Spring Valley Vineyard winemaker Serge Laville hand punches down fermenting grapes. ABOVE LEFT Northstar winery specializes in merlot

wines made from selected vineyard sources in Walla Walla and the Columbia Valley AVAs. CENTER A Canoe Ridge Vineyard wine barrel speaks to the hand-

crafted nature of Walla Walla Valley wines. ABOVE RIGHT Former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe inspects grapes for his Doubleback wines.

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Join us for an evening you won't soon forget.

Tom Maccarone, Owner

lunch and dinner seven days a week

Call for Reservations (509) 522-4776 4 N. Colville Street, Walla Walla, WA 99362 www.tmaccarones.com

Welcome to T Maccarone’s, a modern Washington wine country bistro influenced by classic Italian sensibilities.

Abundant with local, organic, house-made ingredients our menu reflects true farm-to-table dining. Join us in our newly redesigned downtown Walla Walla restaurant and let us make your wine country experience truly memorable. lunch and dinner seven days a week. Reservations (509) 522-4776

Tasting Notes

Cole Danehower’s Recommeded Wines from

Walla Walla Valley ABEJA 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley Dense and concentrated flavors of blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, with overtones of earth, cocoa and espresso, all framed by stand-up tannins and good acidity—a stylish merlot.

2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Heather Hill, Walla Walla Valley Intense, dark, and rich estate fruit delivers bold and brooding flavors of toasty blackberry and plum accented by smoke, graphite, lavender, a touch of cedar, and earth. Hearty, complex, and ageable.

$45

$55

2010 Grenache, Boushey Vineyard Up-an-coming variety from an important vineyard. Soft berry flavors with floral notes and spice.

$38

2010 Chardonnay, Connor Lee Vineyard Well-balanced lees-influenced chardonnay with apple, pear, vanilla, and spice notes.

$28

2012 Sémillon, Walla Walla Valley Rich and complex, with flavors of kiwi and melon made vibrant by good acidity.

BERGEVIN LANE 2008 Intuition Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley Wonderfully full aromas and tastes of blackberries, blueberries, mocha, cedar, earth, and lavender.

2010 Syrah, Princess, Walla Walla Ripe, dark fruits are framed by great acidity and firm tannins; powerful and yet balanced.

BUTY 2012 Chardonnay, Conner Lee Vineyard, Columbia Valley Ripe and silky, but with great freshness of white peach and pear notes.

2010 Rediviva of the Stones, Walla Walla Savory syrah flavors are ringed by silky notes of dried herbs, roasted meat, and black fruits.

CADARETTA 2012 SBS (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon), Coumbia Valley Beautifully bright and lively, full of fresh stone fruit flavors.

2010 Windthrow, Columbia Valley Effusive notes of herbs, dried potpourri, and concentrated plum and blackberry fruitiness.

CANOE RIDGE 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve Horse Heaven Hills Supple texture awash with flavors of dark fruit ringed by spices and espresso.

CHARLES SMITH 2011 K Syrah, The Beautiful, Walla Walla Valley Concentrated black fruit flavors packed with spicy notes of cigar box, dried earth, and minerals.

2011 K Syrah, Milbrandt Big flavors of black cherries, dried plums, freshly-turned garden soil, and lots of minerality.

àMAURICE CELLARS

AMAVI 2010 Syrah, Les Collines, Walla Walla Intense and concentrated blackberry and plum flavors with lots of spice and floral notes.

CANOE RIDGE 2009 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Flavors of plums and blueberries dance with vanilla, toast, and cedar tones.

$34

$21

$59

$22

$60

$30

CORLISS Wines are available to mailing list members only.

DOUBLEBACK Wines are available to mailing list members only.

DUNHAM CELLARS 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, XVI, Columbia Valley Spry and fresh, with plenty of black cherry, blackberry fruitiness, this is a supple cabernet enjoyable now but with the stuffing to age.

DUSTED VALLEY VINTNERS 2009 Chardonnay, Old Vines, Yakima Valley Wonderfully balanced, soft flavors of peach and apple but with the acidity needed to keep everything fresh and forward.

2011 Syrah, Stained Tooth, Columbia Valley Dark and dense, packed with sweet blackberry and plum flavors with accents of black pepper, spices, and violets.

$45

$30

$32

FIGGINS Wines are available to mailing list members only. $52

$40

FLYING TROUT & TERO ESTATES 2011 Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina Yes, made in Argentina by a Walla Walla winemaker: a fresh, dry white wine with lots of minerality—a unique wine!

$55

FOUNDRY VINEYARDS 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Satisfying aromas of floral-accented ripe fruit combine with flavors of dark cassis and plum fruits, ringed with savory notes of earth, toast, and chalk, all on a structure of firm tannins and fresh acidity.

$23

GRAMERCY CELLARS 2010 Syrah, Lagniappe, Columbia Valley Wonderful fruit focus is brought forward thanks to lively acidity. Full of minerals, black pepper, and spices on a velvety frame.

$50

$17

2010 Tempranillo, Ingio Montoya, Walla Walla Valley Plenty of everything: dark berries, earth, tannin, dried flowers; a complex and age-worthy wine.

KERLOO CELLARS 2011 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Dense flavors of plums and dark berry fruits are well framed by acidity and stout tannins, with notes of earth, smoke, fig, and vanilla.

$19

$42

$55

$42

$40

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Luxury Inn & Dining

in the heart of Walla Walla Wine Country Discrete luxury, award-winning wines, and superb food await you at Fat Duck Inn – featuring seasonal, wine-driven dining fare – the finest in Walla Walla cuisine.

Nestled in a quaint historic, tree-lined neighborhood, moments from downtown shops, wine tasting rooms and Whitman College.

Experience Walla Walla’s premier bed and breakfast!

fatduckinn.com Reservations 509.526.3825 527 Catherine Street Walla Walla, WA 99362

Tasting Notes

Cole Danehower’s Recommeded Wines from

Walla Walla Valley LEONETTI CELLAR Wines are available to mailing list members only.

L’ECOLE NO. 41 2010 Red Wine, Perigee, Estate, Walla Walla Valley Rich, earthy flavors of ripe plums and blackberries are ringed with notes of forest floor, pie crust, and dried flowers.

2012 White Wine, Luminescence, Estate, Walla Walla Valley Tropical fruit notes and honeysuckle flowers dominate this bright Sémillon-cetered blend.

LONG SHADOWS 2010 Merlot, Pedestal, Columbia Valley Blackberry jam, anise, vanilla, and dried potpourri make for a wonderful mélange of Merlot-ness.

2012 Riesling, Poet’s Leap, Columbia Valley Vibrant flavors of white peach, apricot, and summer grass are bold and refreshing thans to great acidity.

MANNINA CELLARS 2010 Sangiovese, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley Pretty cherry flavors are clear and lip-smacking, with notes of baking spices and dried herbs.

NORTHSTAR 2008 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Essence of Merlot flavors: crushed dark red fruits, velvety texture, fine tannins and fresh acidity.

2009 Red Wine, Stella Maris, Columbia Valley Plenty of sweet berry flavors and notes of chocolate, spice, and smoke make for a sweet/savory experience.

OTIS KENYON 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Dark berries wrapped in toast, cinnamon, leather, and dried sage.

PEPPER BRIDGE 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Dense, pure Cabernet character: leather, cassis, earth, cocoa, herbs.

2010 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley A Merlot built to age: well-structured, focused flavors of blue and black berries, oak, toast, cola, licorice.

SEVEN HILLS WINERY 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley Aromatic notes of crushed cassis and blackberry fruit, similar flavors on the palate, plus mocha and vanilla accents.

SLEIGHT OF HAND CELLARS 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, The Illusionist, Columbia Valley Balanced cabernet fruit flavors of cassis and blueberries combine with coffee, tobacco leaf, and baking spices for a hearty mouthful.

$49

$19

$55

SPRING VALLEY VINEYARD 2010 Syrah, Nina Lee, Walla Walla Valley Intense black raspberry and violets with black pepper accents and anise: succulent and long.

2010 Red Wine, Uriah, Walla Walla Valley Currant and blackberry flavors are lush and tasty in the mouth, great structure and powerful finish.

TAMARACK CELLARS 2011 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Fresh raspberry and baking spices, plus a sense of cherry cobbler, give this wine a forward feel.

$20

2008 Red Wine, DuBrul Vineyard Reserve, Rattlesnake Hills Focused flavors of cassis, blackberry, and black cherry are complemented by layers of mocha, vanilla, cedar, and leather: a complex, satisfying wine.

$26

WATERBROOK 2011 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Rich buttery chardonnay with plump flavors of caramel coated apples, pineapple, and ripe pear.

2011 Malbec, Columbia Valley Dark cherry and plum flavors offer added complexity of leather, dark chocolate, and oak-accented earth.

$50

$45

$30

$50

$12

$15

$50

$29

$34

$60 $50

$45

WATERS WINERY 2010 Syrah, Loess, Walla Walla Valley Blackberry and plum fruit are surrounded by notes of chocolate, leather, toast, all with an opulent texture.

2010 Red Wine, Interlude, Columbia Valley Tasty Bordeaux-style blend offers cassis and blackberry fruit center with accents of garden soil and anise.

WOODWARD CANYON 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon “Old Vines”, Washington State Touchstone Walla Walla Cabernet, explodes with varietal character: cassis, dried basil, espresso, earth, lavender—lots of complexity!

2010 Erratic Reserve, Walla Walla Valley Rhône-style blend delivers expansive aromatics and gobs of black fruitiness with anise, cocoa, and dried herb accents.

ZERBA CELLARS 2012 Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley Round notes of cantaloupe, apricot, and yellow fruits make for a juicy mouthful.

2010 Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley Black raspberry fruit with earth, graphite, and minerals making for a brooding but tasty wine.

$50

$28

$89

$66

$20

$38

$45

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© John Valls

Where to eat

DOWNTOWN WALLA WALLA’S THE MARC is a centrally-located bar and restaurant within the Marcus Whitman

Hotel marcuswhitmanhotel.com, offering a rich variety of local wines and cuisine—it is common to bump into all manner of local winemakers or visiting wine authorities here.

Around the corner, Chef Jamie Guerin’s Whitehouse-Crawford whitehousecrawford.com is Walla Walla’s go-to restaurant for fine dining, worldwide wines, and locally sourced ingredients. Located in a refurbished historic building, the ambience and food provide the perfect denouement to a vigorous day of wine tasting.

In the residential area just east of downtown the Fat Duck Inn fatduckinn.com is as noted for its cuisine as for its lodging. Chef-owner Rich Koby applies his award-winning skills to transforming local, seasonal ingredients into memorable meals. Chef Koby also brings a local expert’s knowledge to pairing Walla Walla wines with his locallysourced dishes.

Popular chef Chris Ainsworth offers an intimate white tablecloth experience at his Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen saffronmediterraneankitchen.com. The menu features precisely-composed and beautifully prepared dishes using locally-sourced farm and ranch ingredients—be sure to make a reservation—well in advance of your trip, if possible. Another perennial favorite of locals and regular visitors, T. Maccarone’s tmaccarones.com is a modern bistro proudly using local ingredients to create hearty Italian-inspired dishes for lunch and dinner. Well frequented by local

"An American Beauty... one of America's great rural restaurants." – Gourmet Magazine Whitehouse Crawford Restaurant

© John Valls

© John Valls

winemakers, Brasserie Four brasseriefour.com offers precisely prepared, classic country French dishes in an

FACING PAGE AND FAR RIGHT Paris-inspired dishes are served daily on Main Street at Brasserie Four, thanks to Chef/Owner Hannah MacDonald’s once fortuitous opportunity to live with a family of extraordinary cooks while attending college in France.

Upon graduating from Western Culinary Institute, she came home to Walla Walla, opened the doors to her eatery and never looked back. The menu is delightful, savory and sweet, filled with masterful creations.

ABOVE LEFT Whitehouse-

Crawford Chef Jamie Guerin’s menu changes seasonally: Bristol Bay sockeye salmon, Painted Hills beef tenderloin with red wine sauce, house made tagliatelle with oven dried tomato, arugula, pancetta and Maine lobster.

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unpretentious, friendly atmosphere that doesn’t skimp on service or quality. If you like authentic French onion soup with your Merlot, this is the place for you!

For breakfast and lunch, Bacon & Eggs baconandeggswallawalla.com is great for scratch-made dishes using locally-grown and family-farmed ingredients. The espresso is top-notch and the make-your-own omelet or scramble is perfect for a hearty morning meal. For delightful pastries, cakes, and desserts (not to mention gelato that is virtually required to cool off a hot summer day), Colville Street Patisserie colvillestreetpatisserie.com is a sound bet.

Salumiere Cesario salumierecesario.com is a gourmet grocery that offers a salivary selection of artisan meats, breads, cheeses, spices, oils, beers, and other gustatory delights. Stop in here to get your picnic supplies or to-go sandwiches © John Valls

to complement your wine touring day.

For some of the best impromptu food you’ll find anywhere, in or out of Walla Walla, Andrae’s Kitchen andraeskitchen.com is a nationally famous gourmet food truck. The genius creation of chef Andrae Bopp, you need to check on his Facebook page or visit his website to see his ever-changing menu and where he’ll be cooking when you’re in the area—it is well worth the extra effort!

A short drive west of town takes you to the The Vine restaurant at Cameo

© John Valls

Heights Mansion cameoheightsmansion.com. The Vine offers both patio dining

Prior to buying the Fat Duck Inn with his wife Cynthia, Chef Rich Koby’s career included top restaurants in San Francisco, Tucson and Sonoma wine country. Classically trained at the California Culinary Academy, his talents have earned him the coveted DiRoNa Silver Spoon award.

© John Valls

Saffron Meditteranean Kitchen James Beard Foundation “Best Chef in the Northwest” Semi-Finalist 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 & 2013

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ABOVE Chef Chris Ainsworth continues to keep Walla Walla in the national foodie spotlight with his superb cuisine at Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen. Best to book this reservation well ahead, as in when you book your trip.

Shown: grilled quail green olive-

walnut salad, pomegranate molasses, cilantro dressing and fragrant sea salt. FACING PAGE Dinner at the Duck (Fat Duck Inn), is an extraordinary affair involving a 5-course meal prepared by Chef Rich Koby. Each of the delectable courses is perfectly paired with a

local Walla Walla wine. Depending on the time of year, guests may also spend the evening in the company of a local winemaker. SHOWN Herbes de Provence Roasted Chicken with Polenta, Tomato, Fresh Herbs and Picholine Olives.

HERBES DE PROVENCE ROASTED CHICKEN WITH POLENTA, TOMATO, FRESH HERBS & PICHOLINE OLIVES. Chef Rich Koby, Fat Duck Inn (serves 3-4) Whole chicken (3.5 to 4 pounds)

PREPARATION

1/4 cup

Pitted black olives

CHICKEN Heat oven to 450 degrees. Rub

3-4 Tbsp

Pure Olive Oil to coat chicken

2 Tbsp

Herbes De Provence

Sea Salt

French Grey Salt

chicken with olive oil, Herbes de Provence and salt and pepper. Place in oven and turn oven down to 350 degrees. Cook until internal temperature of the chicken is at least 165 degrees. Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes.

Fresh Ground Black Pepper

THE POLENTA 1 cup

Coarse Polenta

5 cups

Chicken Stock

3 Tbsp

Unsalted Butter

Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Black Pepper

THE SAUCE 2 oz

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 cups

Fresh Tomatoes, peeled seeded and diced coarsely, or San Marzano (can)

2 cloves

Fresh garlic, crushed

1/4 tsp ea. Chopped fresh Rosemary, Thyme and Oregano 12-15

Picholine olive, or other small green olive with pit

POLENTA Bring chicken stock to a boil in a heavy sauce pan. Then, add the polenta while stirring with a whisk or wooden spoon. Turn down to a simmer stirring until polenta is cooked al Dente (about 20-25 min). Add salt, pepper and 2 Tbsp butter. Place remaining butter on top of polenta, cover and let rest for about 20 min.

SAUCE Warm olive oil in pan. When warm (not hot) add the garlic. Cook until just brown on the edges. Then add the rest of the ingredients and cook until the flavors marry and it is sauce consistency.

Serve family-style. Polenta for the base, then cutting the chicken into eight pieces, draping the sauce over. Garnish with fresh herbs and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

Parmigiano Reggiano for Garnish

Š John Valls

Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Pepper

Herbes de Provence Roasted Chicken

Restaurants ANDRAE’S KITCHEN andraeskitchen.com 706 West Rose St, Walla Walla 509-572-0728

Dinners with the Winemaker at T Maccarone’s hosted throughout the year involve several paired-wine courses showcasing Walla Walla’s finest. Expect an unforgettable evening of camaraderie, extraordinary food and wine as you learn of the local winemaker’s back-story.

BACON & EGGS baconandeggswallawalla.com 503 E. Main Street, Walla Walla 509-876-4553 BRASSERIE FOUR brasseriefour.com 4 East Main Street, Walla Walla 509-529-2011 THE VINE AT CAMEO HEIGHTS MANSION cameoheightsmansion.com 1072 Oasis Road, Touchet 509-394-0211 COLVILLE STREET PATISSERIE colvillestreetpatisserie.com 40 S. Colville Street, Walla Walla 509-301-7289 FAT DUCK INN fatduckinn.com 527 Catherine Street, Walla Walla 509-526-3825

with gorgeous views of the Walla Walla River valley and orchards, and indoor seating with an intimate view of the kitchen at work as Chef Nathan Carlson prepares elegant seasonal dishes that help make Walla Walla wine shine.

Heading north of Walla Walla, a side trip to the nearby town of Waitsburg is called for to eat at two unique venues. Local favorite jimgermanbar jimgermanbar.com (that’s not a typo, it is how the name is spelled) is an artisan cocktail-and-small-plates bar with local flair that attracts people from near and far (very far; when I was last there I sat next to a visiting New York wine writer). Across the street Whoopemup Hollow Cafe whoopemuphollowcafe.com offers tummytopping Southern-style dishes. And if you want a craft beer to wash everything down, visit the

JIMGERMANBAR jimgermanbar.com 119 Main Street, Waitsburg 509-337-6001

Laht Neppur lahtneppur.com brewery for a changing selection of beers (or visit their Ale House

LAHT NEPPUR BREWING CO. ALE HOUSE lahtneppur.com 53 South Spokane, Walla Walla 509-529-2337

Walla, but to find them you need to ask the locals (winemakers, especially). Insiders each have

LAHT NEPPUR BREWING CO. BREWERY lahtneppur.com 444 Preston Avenue, Waitsburg 509-337-6261

that locals line-up to get their food: so ask around!

in Walla Walla).

There are other discoveries awaiting the adventurous foodie willing to dig deeper into Walla their favorite unheralded taco truck, old-fashioned burger-and-milkshake drive-in, or authentic Mexican cafes—the kind of places that don’t make it into tourist guidebooks, but are good enough

SAFFRON MEDITERRANEAN KITCHEN saffronmediterraneankitchen.com 125 W. Alder Street, Walla Walla 509-525-2112 SALUMIERE CESARIO salumierecesario.com 12 E. Main Street, Walla Walla 509-529-5620 THE MARC (at the Marcus Whitman Hotel) marcuswhitmanhotel.com 6 West Rose Street, Walla Walla 509-525-2200 T. MACCARONE’S tmaccarones.com 4 N. Colville Street, Walla Walla 509-522-4776 WHITEHOUSE-CRAWFORD whitehousecrawford.com 55 West Cherry Street, Walla Walla 509-525-2222 WHOOPEMUP HOLLOW CAFE whoopemuphollowcafe.com 120 Main Street, Waitsburg 509-337-9000

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© John Valls

THE

VINE

© John Valls

Chef Nathan Carlson is raising the bar for elegant fine dining in the Walla Walla Valley at The Vine, located in the Cameo Heights Mansion. Guests can enjoy bucolic country views of the Mansion’s orchards and surrounding Walla Walla River Valley while dining on the patio, or opt for a more intimate “chef’s table” view of Nathan carefully preparing and presenting their meal. Boasting one of the most extensive local wine lists and a delightful seasonal menu, diners will have a memorable experience at The Vine. Dinner is by reservation only, Tuesday through Saturday.

Š Ali Walker

A hub for Italian-style dining in downtown Walla Walla, T. Maccarone’s proprietor Tom Maccarone insists on sourcing local produce and meats. Menus change with the season: Rabbit Mole Tamales, Duck Sliders, and Mediterranean Mussels for small bites. Regular favorites include succulent pork chops, Wagyu beef, Truffle Fries and to-die-for Bolognese atop house-made pappardelle pasta. The wine cellar is well stocked on Walla Walla wines, and a bonus of classics from Italy, to complement the menu.

Experience Walla Walla's Premier Limo and Charter Bus Service

Dream Ride Charters

10 passenger Luxury Vintage Limo ($125/hr) 32 passenger motor coach (100/hr) 52 passenger motor coach ($125/hr) Choose your favorite Walla Walla Wineries and we'll take you there in Safety, Comfort & Style!!

509.337.0100 dreamridecharters.com

© Jumping Rocks

Where to Stay

In addition to the expected convenience of national-brand motel chains, Walla Walla offers a variety of more character-full accommodations.

The Marcus Whitman Hotel marcuswhitmanhotel.com is an historical landmark (opened in 1928), the tallest building in Walla Walla, and a perfect choice for central lodging. The dramatic brick building and grand lobby harken back to a more genteel era and is an elegantly fitting base for wine touring. Rooms in the original building have a stately grace (and some say, a wandering ghost or two) that matches the generally slower pace of Walla Walla culture.

In the residential area surrounding downtown, Fat Duck Inn fatduckinn.com offers a small number of well-appointed rooms, as well as a highly-respected farm-to-table dining room. Built in 1909, and owned and operated by a fourth-generation Walla Walla family, Green Gables Inn greengablesinn.com offers historic charm, modern amenities, and sophisticated comfort in a relaxing B&B that’s within easy walking distance of downtown.

If you want to stay among the vineyards, and be close to downtown, Girasol Vineyard & Inn casagirasol.com is a top choice. Modern, luxurious rooms, gourmet breakfast, knowledgeable innkeepers, and a stone’s throw from nearby wineries, this delightful B&B is perfect as a wine touring hub.

Further out, The Inn at Abeja Abeja.net/inn offers unique luxurious accommodations in renovated historic

farm buildings on a gorgeous 42-acre farmstead, complete with its own winery. A spectacular place to stay, t he Inn is perfect for a get-away-from-it-all vacation. To the west of Walla Walla, Cameo Heights Mansion cameheightsmansion.com also offers posh B&B accommodations in a country environment. Each large suite is differently themed, and the property offers a swimming pool and easy access to all manner of activities.

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OPPOSITE PAGE Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens, creeks, lawns and vineyards, the Inn at Abeja and Winery is a stunning, turn-ofthe-century farmstead where original outbuildings have been carefully restored into lovely, spacious, individual and private guest accommodations, aptly named Chicken Coop, Hayloft Suite, Carriage House Suite and Bunk House. LEFT Recently restored, historic Green Gables Inn has five luxury suites. Owned by Alexis Buckley, the quaint inn puts on a gourmet breakfast for guests, prepared by Chef Andi Bughi.

Great location near Whitman College, shopping and tasting rooms, and a popular venue for small gatherings and weddings.

BOTTOM LEFT Chef Rich Koby and his wife, Cynthia, happily left their fast paced careers in the Bay Area and Sonoma to buy the Fat Duck Inn. Nestled in a historic tree-line neighborhood, the restored Craftsman-style bed and breakfast is convenient to shopping, wine tasting and Whitman

College. Chef Koby’s wine-paired dinners are a must. ABOVE RIGHT Cameo Heights Mansion’s seven ultra-luxurious suites offer guests a great escape, minutes from downtown. Located on a 730-acre hillside overlooking vineyards, orchards and Walla Walla River, each room of this

11,000 square foot majestic inn is well-appointed with all the amenities, including a fine dining restaurant to watch the sun set. Suite interiors match the country each inspired: Germany, France, Spain, Greece, Italy, England and Asia.

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Inns & Hotels THE INN AT ABEJA abeja.net 2014 Mill Creek Road 509-522-1234 CAMEO HEIGHTS MANSION cameoheightsmansion.com 1072 Oasis Road, Touchet 509-394-0211 FAT DUCK INN fatduckinn.com 527 Catherine Street 509-526-3825 GIRASOL VINEYARD & INN casagirasol.com 250 Girasol Lane 509-956-9743 GREEN GABLES INN greengablesinn.com 922 Bonsella Street 509 876-4373 MARCUS WHITMAN HOTEL marcuswhitmanhotel.com 6 West Rose Street 509-525-2200

© Jumping Rocks

The Inn at Abeja’s “Edison House” loft-style cottage blends rustic lodge big open beams with retro furnishings, giving one the sense of being among the trees – the perfect perch to spot morning wildlife passing nearby.

And for a truly unique visit to the Walla Walla area, you can choose a farm stay at the

MONTEILLET FROMAGERIE Monteilletcheese.com/farm-stay 109 Ward Road, Dayton 509-382-1917

Monteillet Fromagerie monteilletcheese.com/farm-stay in Dayton, northeast of Walla

WALLA WALLA BED & BREAKFAST INNS ASSOCIATION wallawallabnb.com

goats from whence they make their cheese. The Monteillets also offer a guest house in

Walla on the fringes of the Blue Mountains. This working dairy and cheese producer offers a luxuriously-appointed farm stay option in any season at The Gite (French for “holiday house”). Owners Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet are charming hosts—as are the Walla Walla, and even an option to stay in one of their on-farm Airstream campers!

LEFT The grand historic 127-room Marcus Whitman Hotel is the official community gathering place in downtown Walla Walla. Built in 1928, thelandmark is nationally recognized for its gourmet restaurant and wine lounge.

RIGHT Girasol Vineyard & Inn has an idyllic setting with over 18 world-class wineries within a 2-mile radius.

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The Ultimate Luxury Inn with Exquisite Dining... only minutes from downtown Walla Walla. Reservations required.

509.394.0211

cameoheightsmansion.com ansion.com

Your escape to Walla Walla begins at Green Gables Inn. Treat yourself to a luxurious stay in Walla Walla, close to Whitman College & downtown shops, wine tasting and nightlife. With fresh, seasonal breakfasts made each morning & lush historic charm, you’ll love coming home to us.

Weddings I Custom Dinners Private Events I Catering & more!

w w w. G re e n G a b l e s I n n . c o m Gr Green een Gables Inn 922 Bonsella B onsella St. S t. W Walla alla W Walla, alla, W WA. A . 99362 (P) 509.8 509.876.4373 76.4373

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PORTLAND PRIME portlandprime.net

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RENTAL SALES GALLERY portlandartmuseum.org

BANK OF THE WEST bankofthewest.com

TIFFANY HOME FURNISHINGS tiffanyhomefurnishings.com

RED STAR TAVERN AND ROAST HOUSE redstartavern.com

CATHOLIC CHARITIES catholiccharitiesoregon.org

WORLDS AWAY worlds-away.com

MKG FINANCIAL GROUP mkgfinancial.com

THIRST BISTRO thirstbistro.com

FLOOR COVERINGS

KITCHEN, BATH & ARCHITECTURAL MATERIALS

VERITABLE QUANDARY veritblequandary.com

LAPCHI lapchi.com

ANN SACKS TILE & STONE annsacks.com

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ATIYEH BROS. atiyehbros.com

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AMAVI CELLARS amavicellars.com

CHRISTIANE MILLINGER ORIENTAL RUGS christianemillingerorientalrugs

CHOWN HARDWARE chown.com

CAMEO HEIGHTS MANSION cameoheightsmansion.com

CLASSIQUE FLOORS classiquefloors.com

DREAM RIDE CHARTERS dreamridecharters.com

ELEMAR OREGON elemaroregon.com

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ENERGY TRUST OF OREGON energytrust.org

FOUNDRY VINEYARDS foundryvineyards.com

INFINITY COUNTERTOPS infinitycountertops.com

GREEN GABLES INN greengablesinn.com

LISAC’S FIREPLACES & STOVES lisacsfireplaces.com

INN AT ABEJA abeja.net/inn

MCCOY MILLWORK mccoymillwork.com

MARCUS WHITMAN HOTEL marcuswhitmanhotel.com

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STONE AGE MARBLE & GRANITE SERVICES stoneageofportland.net

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CASCADE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY portlandsfinesthomes.com

WALLA WALLA BED AND BREAKFAST INNS ASSN.. wallawallabnb.com

REA COMPANY NORTHWEST reaco-nw.com

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NORTH RIM northrimbend.com

ROOM SERVICE HOME TECHNOLOGIES goroomservice.com

HIP ubhip.com

O’DONNELL GROUP REALTY odonnellgrouprealty.com

WALLA WALLA WINE ALLIANCE wallawallawine.com

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Color Forecast

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chef + garden enthusiast

cooler season inspirations

picks to refresh any room

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ARCHITECTS, DESIGNERS & CONTRACTORS CAREY CUSTOM FLOORS & REMODELING careycustomfloors.com CUSTOM AUDIO VIDEO kustoav@comcast.net GIULIETTI/SCHOUTEN AIA ARCHITECTS gsarchitects.net

GARDEN, POOLS & SPAS & LANDSCAPING CASCADE POOLS & SPAS cascadepools.com

HAMMER & HAND hammerandhand.com

CORNELL FARM cornellfarms.com

JDL DEVELOPMENT jdldev.com

INNOVATIVE NIGHTSCAPES innovativenightscapes.com

KRAFT CUSTOM CONSTRUCTION kraftcustomconstruction.com

TERRITORIAL SEED COMPANY territorialseed.com

MAISON INC. maisoninc.com NATHAN GOOD ARCHITECTS nathangoodarchitect.com NIFELLE DESIGN – FINE INTERIORS nefilledesign.com OLSON & JONES CONSTRUCTION olsonandjones.com

FABRIC, PAINT & WALL COVERINGS DEVINE COLOR devinecolor.com DURALEE duralee.com KRAVET kravet.com MILL END STORE millendstore.com RODDA PAINT roddapaint.com FASHION & SALONS AU SALON ausalon.com EILEEN FISHER eileenfisher.com

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QUARTET quartetpdx.com

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5 SPICE SEAFOOD + WINE BAR fivespicerestaurant.com BISTRO MARQUEE bistromarquee.com PAZZO RISTORANTE pazzo.com

T. MACCARONE’S tmaccarones.com

WOODWARD CANYON woodwardcanyon.com WINDOWS & DOORS EDELEN CUSTOM EXTERIORS edelendoors.com SHUTTERS PORTLAND shuttersportland.com SIERRA PACIFIC WINDOWS sierrapacificwindows.com

ADVERTISER INDEX 5 Spice Seafood + Wine Bar ......................101 Amavi Cellars ..............................................112 Atelier Lapchi ............................................15 Atiyeh Bros. ................................................4-5 Au Salon ......................................................86 Bank of the West ..........................................10 BASCO ........................................................ 2-3 Bistro Marquee ..........................................101 Cameo Heights Mansion ............................129 Carey Custom Floors & Remodeling ............88 Cascade Pools & Spas ..................................12 Cascade Sotheby’s Intl. Realty ......................62 Catholic Charities ..........................................60 Chown Hardware ..........................................28 Christiane Millinger Oriental Rugs ..............37 Classique Floors ..........................................37 Cornell Farm ................................................22 Custom Audio Video ......................................72 Devine Color ..................................................7 Dream Ride Charters ..................................125 Edelen Custom Exteriors ............................74 Eileen Fisher ................................................17 EleMar Oregon ..............................................75 Energy Trust of Oregon ................................21 Fat Duck Inn ..............................................118 Foundry Vineyards ......................................112 Giulietti/Schouten AIA Architects ..................62 Green Gables Inn ........................................129 Hammer & Hand ............................................6 HIP ............................................................51 Infinity Countertops ......................................23 Innovative Nightscapes ................................22 JDL Development ........................................11 Kraft Custom Construction ............................61 LaRog Brothers ..........................................103 Lisac’s Fireplaces & Stoves ..........................89 Maison ........................................................37 Marcus Whitman Hotel ..............................125 McCoy Millwork ............................................74 Mill End Store ..............................................27 Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams............Back Cover MKG Financial Group ....................................60 Nathan Good Architects ................................86 North Rim ......................................................9 O’Donnell Group Realty ................................13 Olson & Jones Construction ......................39 Parker Furniture ............................................15 Pazzo Ristorante ..........................................101 Pepper Bridge ............................................112 Please Be Seated ..........................................28 Portland Prime ............................................101 Quartet ....................................................103 Rea Company Northwest ................................8 Red Star Tavern & Roasting House ..............102 Rental Sales Gallery ....................................36 Rodda Paint ..................................................87 Room Service Home Technologies ................63 Shutters Portland ..........................................36 Sierra Pacific Windows ................................20 Stone Age Marble & Granite Services ............72 Stone NW ....................................................73 T. Maccarone’s ............................................116 Thirst Bistro ................................................103 Tiffany Home Furnishings ............................32

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