Sparkling Wines of Portugal

The Sparkling Wines of Portugal

Story and photos by Rosanna Bucknill

In Portugal, sparkling wine is known as ‘espumante’ and is produced with many different grape varieties. Two-thirds of Portuguese sparkling wine production takes place in the wine region of Bairrada, between Águeda and Coimbra. They have been producing sparkling wines here since 1890. Bairrada’s proximity to the coast means Atlantic breezes and high rainfall, which bring cooling influences perfect for grape acidity. Baga is the Queen grape in Bairrada and it has thick red skins and elevated tannin levels. Sparkling wine made from red grape varieties such as Baga is known as a ‘blanc de noirs.’ Winemakers of Bairrada are also using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the classic grapes found in Champagne) to produce sparkling wines.

In Bairrada, the traditional method (‘método clássico’) for making sparkling wine, also known as the ‘Champagne method,’ is used. First, a base wine is produced and then a second fermentation occurs in the bottle by adding more yeast and sugar. The process that occurs inside the sparkling bottles that age in the cellars is called ‘autolysis.’ Dead yeast cells break down and impart flavours into the wine; for example, notes of bread, patisserie and nuts. One brand readily available in Portuguese supermarkets at extremely affordable prices is São Domingos. In Bairrada, the locals often drink the espumante with the local dish ‘leitão’ (roasted piglet). The other region historically famous for its sparkling wines is Távora-Varosa. This is the smallest denominated wine region in Portugal and it is located in the north, with vineyards at an altitude of 500-800 metres. My favourite sparkling wine from this region is the Terras do Demo produced by the Cooperativa Agrícola do Távora made from the grape Malvasia Fina. This sparkling wine is very fruity with some floral notes and fine, persistent bubbles.

Discovering a cellar in Bairrada

When choosing a bottle of Portuguese espumante, you may come across the acronym VEQPRD (Vinho Espumante de Qualidade Produzido About to open a sparkling wine from Quinta da Calçada from Vinho Verde em Região Determinada), which is a guaranteed seal of quality and indicates that it has been made using the traditional method. However, it is also important to check the sweetness level: for example, if you prefer dry sparkling wines go for a ‘bruto’; but, if you are looking for a sweeter option, it is best to pick a ‘meio-doce’ (slightly sweet) or ‘doce’ (sweet). It is also possible to find many Portuguese sparkling rosé wines. The rosé espumantes are made using red grapes. Contact with the grape skins (maceration) is reduced, however, so the wine has a lighter colouring than a typical red. Popular sparkling rosé wines include Vértice from Douro (made from the grape Touriga Franca), giving notes of raspberries and cherries. Another pleasant option is the Cartuxa Espumante Rosé from Alentejo (made with the Touriga Nacional grape). You can find sparkling wine in every Portuguese region and there are many different styles to experiment with. Sparkling wines pair fantastically with typical Portuguese food—for example petiscos (snacks), bolinhos de bacalhau (cod dumplings), aromatic olives or peixinhos de horta (tempura green beans). The general rule is that sparkling wine pairs well with salty food, fried food, and seafood.

Wine tourism master, writer, and sommelier Rosanna Bucknill studied at the Universidade do Porto and University of Edinburg.