A memorable place to stay in Algarve
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Our stories
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Welcome 4. Come and stay in a memorable place
Our House 6. The portuguese soul of Casa Sul 14. Three generations of women 16. The making of... 19. Portuguese crochet in Casa Sul
Our Lagos 20. Old Lagos 22. Beaches, beaches and beaches 28. So many things to do in Lagos 34. Don’t miss Costa Vicentina 2
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Our Poet 38. Sophia de Mello Breyner
Our Choice 40. Vintage objects by Alma Portuguesa
Our Dog 42. My dog named Sul
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Welcome!!!
Casa Sul, belongs to my family for the past three generations 4
Casa Sul, in Algarve Come and stay in a memorable place Lying on this lost beach in the Arabian Sea contemplating an indescribable sunset, I call upon my memories and wonder where should I start writing the
Edition n.2 March 2014 Property:
Portuguese Soul Rentals Tel. (00) 351 933 090 709 www.portuguesesoulrentals.com portuguesesoulrentals@gmail.com
first lines of this article. I remember a TV advertisement of a Spanish brand, which slogan goes along these lines: sometimes we need a little bit of South, so as not to lose the North and which further explains that we all have a “ North “ responsible side in our heads, laden with duties, and a “ South “ side of enjoyment, joy and fun, which complement each other and the secret to a happy life and above all not to lose track of our lives and hearts would be the balance between these two hemispheres. And it is here that I start from, the south . I do not live in the South, but in the Middle East and beyond a distance of miles and life was Lagos, and especially this house, the first and most enduring of my passions. I am by nature a passionate woman for life and a storyteller, especially those stories of happy endings . I was not born in Lagos, but I have a south soul. I grew up in this house, I grew up in the south and all you can write about this city will fall short of what it really is. I remember sitting and playing on the terrace while watching the whole town whitewashed and listening to my grandmother telling me that the streets were once upon a time also inhabited by donkeys and the houses had octopuses drying in the sun. I remember the red earth on the road to Meia Praia beach, the scent of fig and carob trees, the cliffs of beaches turned golden under the setting sun, strolling on the beach looking for seashells. I recall waiting for my grand grandfather’s fishing boat and winning an ice cream in return, grilling sardines at the door of the house, the flavor of the roasted peanuts and beans wrapped in a paper from a phone book, the feeling of my dangling legs over the pontoon of the beach and training for the dives into the sea. I remember friends of those times, the first love, the sound of crickets at night, the sunset with seagulls’ cries, the toy store of my grandfather on Rua Direita, sailing with my father and seeing the sea full of fish and stars. And now, lying here on this beach all this seems too beautiful and distant to simply even believe, so I decided to tell this story... I did not want time and distance to force this house into oblivion and for this reason I gave her a new life after a century of existence. Casa Sul, belongs to my family for the past three generations, people with a big and gentle heart, a mix of fishermen, musicians and book lovers. We all grew up under a blue sky which light was so soft that it seemed suspended, where from the front door we could start exploring the city painted in white and the magical streets of the historical center, where you can still lose yourself on the beaches of white sand and transparent sea , where we can and must discover the wild side of Sagres and the Vincentian coast. Who knows, maybe a ride in an old VW trailer (this is another enduring passion) lost in love with a dish of Barnacles or just watching the sea from Cape St. Vincent and experiencing to the sound of applause one of the best sunsets ever. For the one who had the good fortune to live knows what I mean and the one who did not live it can do this, through my eyes, through these walls and corners and essentially through our recommendations. For this reason I end as I began, do not miss the South, come live this experience through the history steeped in these walls, in the photographs of this family and of this town.
I deeply believe that sometimes we need a little south to not lose the north.
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Our house
The kitchen is a colorful place with all you need for preparing your meals. Sit around the table and spend endless hours chatting with your friends.
The portuguese soul of Casa Sul in Lagos Sul, a place where you feel the portuguese soul. Come and fall asleep to the sound of the ocean, cradled by the smell of salty air, dream of castles and Princesses and wake up to the sound of the Church Bell. Sul (South) refers to a “memory concept�, of travellers that have stories to tell, stories that will etched in our memories forever. This is a century antique house belonging to three generations of people connected to the sea, music and books that was recently restored by the great-granddaughter. The sea and the light are the star elements present in this place, full of history and tranquillity. With 3 floors and a capacity to host 6 people, Casa Sul will immerse you into a historic environment with its antique wooden ceilings and floors, hydraulic mosaics from the early 20th century and pieces of recovered vintage furniture, a project carried out by Alma Portuguesa, portuguese artists. 6
Living on earh is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the sun every year
Our house
Centenarian beautiful tiles still adorn the floor and the kitchen. The kitchen is extremely colorful, with a large painting of the sea.
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We are never tire of staring at the grandfather’s cclock which luminous yellow stands boldly against the bright red of the entrance door
Countless steps and countless moments are recorded on the floor for ever and ever. 9
Our house
“ x libris Casa Sul large terrace with views of the historic area of the City.
EthatWewarminvityoure yousoulto sitandinstthreetlcohungeyourchairs, get absorbed by one of those books body to the sound of seagulls and the wind. “
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On the first floor there is the Salt Room, with original furnishings fully recovered and painted in shades of pink lavender reminiscent color to the sunset of the Ria de Alvor on marshes and salt-pans. The Sea Room on the second floor room has a view of the church of Santa Maria domes. It was given the name of the sea, because the color is reminiscent of the immense blue of the Lagos bay on a sunny day. The result speaks volumes of this labour of love and dedication carried out by all involved. 11
Our house
With a stunning location in the heart of the historic centre of Lagos, you may choose from a variety of alternatives at your front door, all of it at a walking distance:
going to magnificent beaches of clear blue waters visiting all major sights and monuments
watching or even swiming with dolphins 12
going through the streets of the historic center of Moorish inspiration
eating out in restaurants with fresh fsh and seafood
The location of the South house is stunning, right in the heart of the historic center of Lagos, in Infante Dom Henrique Square , within the walls of the Castle of Governors and in front of Santa Maria Curch.
watching the sunset at the Ponta da Piedade lighthouse enjoying nightlife at Lago’s many bars and discos
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Our house
Three generations of women Like all happy ending stories, this one starts at once upon a time there was... There was once a family home, built in the early twentieth century, in a street of picturesque sidewalks, near the city walls, one of the entrances to the Governors Castle. Belonged to Amelia and Salvador. From its terrace, we peek the sunrise in its serene and vibrant bay and when the sun wakes it reflects its light the white wall of Santa Maria church. Sea, books and music lovers grew up here. From the great-grandparents went to the grandmother, Natalia, one of the sweetest women and noble heart I have ever met, and from the grandmother to granddaughter and so entered the fourth generation. Feel these memories through photos and travel in time ‌ we wish a pleasant journey.
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Our house
The making of Rebuilding this house was an disproportionate adventure, a well-kept secret, a passion for the sea...
Say yes to renovate a home, breathing new life into a tired and forgotten house took us doses of passion and time, but with the help of everyone involved, we have finally made it. They have all been great. Nice, professional, and most importantly, they did a beautiful work! We left you with some photos of the working progress, hope you enjoy as much as we did. An endless thank you to everyone!
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The owners’s nephews, the fifth generation, at the reconstruction site. Children are always around in this house. 17
Our house
Breathing a new life into a tired and forgotten house took us immense doses of passion and time... the kitchen was a real challenge!
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portuguese crochet
H
at Casa sul
andmade by a skillful grandmother, crochet towels and bed covers can be found all over the house. They are part of the house’s soul and heritage and we wanted to them as with all noble crafts.
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ther art pieces include rag work that can be found in the bread bags. This is also an Algarve art form which uses scraps of material and remnants of old clothes cut into strips or geometrical forms in order to sew them together by hand, thus producing the much famed colorful patchwork.
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Our Lagos
Old Lagos in black & White
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These old black and white photos show a lit le bit of how Lagos used to be in the old days. Beautiful indeed!
Although the 1755 earthquake has caused major damage, Lagos retained in its streets and squares the charm of a very secular city. Where the old medieval city once stood, you now can see a quadrilateral defined by the old medieval walls and the streets of S. Goncalo and 5 October. The houses show much of the medieval character of the city in the stonework of their windows, their art nouveau tiles, their doors, their wrought iron balconies, in the space of shade and freshness created through the narrow streets and courtyards where fig trees, vines and flowers grow. 21
Our Lagos
Beaches, beaches and beaches
Casa Sul is located in Lagos, a Portuguese coastal city in the western Algarve. The history of Lagos is connected to the sea as fishing has always been a part of it since distant times. Besides, there are so many beaches‌
Lagos is known as the Gold Coast, due to the golden hue of its rocky cliffs that form fantastic caves along the beaches. These vary in shape and style going from small, quiet and almost private sandy coves sandwiched between dramatic cliffs to huge beaches like the famous Meia Praia, with blue and clear waters.
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Some of the beaches that we recommend are Batata / Solaria Beach (5 min. walk), PinhĂŁo Beach and Camilo Beach (10 min. walk) and Meia Praia (Casa Sul is just 2 min. walk from the place you catch a boat), a sandy 2.5-mile stretch that caters to every water sport imaginable.
Pinhão and Camilo’s beach tall orange cliffs create a secluded cove… almost too good to tell anyone about! You are in virgin territory here: no shops, umbrellas or deck chairs. Just you, the beach and the sea. Here you can reconnect with nature if you’re early enough. There are some interesting rock forms around it, so go exploring or simply take a swim and watch the glistening ocean.
Pinhão and Camilo’s beach tall orange cliffs create a secluded cove… almost too good to tell anyone about!
Our Lagos
Batata Beach is a great place to go for a dip just 5 minutes walking distance from Casa Sul. Surrounded by rocky cliffs, it sits in a beautiful sheltered cove where the water is almost still. Hidden in the folds of the rock lies another small cove, the beautiful Praia dos Estudantes (Students’ beach).
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Meia Praia or São Roque’s broad sandy beaches stretches for 4 km (2.5 miles) and offer all kinds of facilities for those who enjoy water sports. On the isthmus of the Alvor bar stands Meia Praia fort, which defended Lagos bay in the 17th and 18th centuries.
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Our Lagos
Despite being much smaller, Dona Ana Beach is also a good option, having been chosen by the Spanish edition of the prestigious CondĂŠ Nast Traveller magazine in first place among the 50 best in the world. 26
The turquoise color of its waters that stands out among the natural escarpment makes it a gorgeous beach, a place where children can play all day, as there are little waves. 27
Our Lagos
So many things to do in Lagos... Lagos is most appreciated for iits unique coast (named Gold Coast due to the almost golden color of the rocks), its cuisine and its historical heritage.
There is a great variety of things to see, Lagos city center itself is sculpted with traditional architecture and colors from the region. Lagos is a small city you can walk pretty much everywhere. Right at your door you will find a huge variety of alternate activities: going to beautiful sandy golden beaches, visiting the caves by boat, visiting monuments, going through the streets of the historical center of Moorish inspiration, and why not ending the day at one of Lagos’s many bars and discos as it has the best nightlife in Algarve. Lagos is very popular for its outdoor cafes and restaurants where you can experience typical local cuisine, based mainly on fresh fish and seafood from the Atlantic Ocean. The sardines in the Algarve are some of the best in the world. Another local dish is the salted cod, which allegedly had 365 ways of being served, one for each day of the year. At night you can walk out to dine in one of Lagos’s many restaurants, in an informal hippie chic place or in a more traditional restaurant with the freshest fish or seafood.
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There are so many monuments to see, but we’ll tell you about some not to be missed. The Governor's Castle (right next to Casa Sul) is an old Arabic construction and was possibly once a fortress. This building was altered on many subsequent occasions. During the 16th and 17th centuries it was the residence of the Governors, Captain Generals of the Algarve. The fortress includes a window in Manueline style where tradition has it, King Sebastião heard mass before setting off for the fateful battle of Alcácer-Quibir. In the garden there is a panel evoking this battle by the sculptor João Cutileiro.
In front of Casa Sul you will find Igreja de Santa Maria, which dates from the 15th and 16th centuries and retains a 16th-century entrance; the rest dates largely from the mid-19th century when it was restored after a fire destroyed most of it. Don’t overlook the strange orange and purple battling angels mural behind the altar.
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Our Lagos Another monument right next to Casa Sul is the Slave Market. It was here during the 15th century where the first slaves, captured and transported from Africa, were sold. Many Africans were dispersed throughout Europe, bringing a considerable income to the Portuguese monarchy and merchant classes, as well as a cheap domestic labour force. As the major sponsor of these expeditions, Prince Henry the Navigator (who´s statue appears on the plaza) received one fifth of the sale price of the slaves. The building now holds a museum with ancient findings.
The Slave Market in Lagos was Europe’s first slave market, built in 1444!
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Fort of the Banner´s Promontory, also known as Fort of the Banner´s Mast (Forte do Pau da Bandeira) is situated near the stream of Bensafrim at the sea and was a defensive construction (18th century). The small strip of sand where it was built witnessed the first slave markets in an age when the Portuguese were engaging in their first maritime adventures, under the guidance of Henry the Navigator. Now, the place is used to celebrate one of the most traditional festivities of Lagos: the Banho 29 (Bath 29). This tradition relates to local population traveling to bathe in the sea at midnight, on the 29th of August.
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Our Lagos Protruding south, there is Lagos´ number one attraction, Point of Piety (Ponta da Piedade), a stunning, dramatic section of coastline consisting of caves, grottos and sea arches that nature has sculpted over thousands of years. It’s a 20 meter high cliff which shines golden in the afternoon sun, and its fairytale caves are a must see. You can discover the area in small fisherman’s boats, or even better by kayak, so that you can venture into the caves. If you are a good swimmer you can go through the water! This beautiful spot is completed with a lighthouse. If you feel like an unforgettable scenic walk, take the cliff walk to the lighthouse. For the best view, do it around sunset. The cliffs are a rich gold in the setting sun, and the shimmering ocean amongst the grottos is truly picturesque.
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You should take some pictures at the statues of Infante Dom Henrique (Henry the Navigator), he was an important navigator in the early days of the Portuguese Empire and the Age of Discoveries. He was responsible for the early development of European exploration and maritime trade with other continents. In 1419, Henry’s father appointed him governor of the province of the Algarve. He sponsored expeditions down the coast of Africa which returned with numerous African slaves and goods. The port of Lagos was the harbor from which these expeditions left. In the center of the square stands a statue, inaugurated in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of his death.
Lagos was chosen among 500 European destinations by the QualityCoast International Certification European Program as one of the most attractive tourist destinations for visitors interested in cultural heritage, environment and sustainability.
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Our Lagos
a n i t n e c i V a t s o C s s i m t o n Do The most wild and deserted of the Southwest, ideal not only for surfing but also for those seeking calm and natural beauty Lagos is also just a few kilometers of innumerable magnificent and unspoiled beaches of the Vicentina Coast. Perched on the very southwestern tip of Portugal, and by extension Europe sits one of the largest natural parks, the beautiful costa Vicentian natural park. This protected area claims the entire western slice of the Algarve, covering 74.000 hectares and has a coastline that stretches for more than 80 kilometers. For those looking for tranquility and rest and that want to get away from the backpacking tourists, Vicentina Coast is a must see, with almost wild beaches, squeezed between cliffs or extending along sand dunes that invite to long walks.
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The beaches are gorgeous and seem to never end, almost all surf spots
Our Lagos Don’t miss Aljezur, it is about 30km north of Lagos. It is built on either side of the river that runs through the valley...the old town being on one side and the new town on the other. The remains of a Moorish 10th century castle towers over the old town and the views from there are fantastic! Don’t miss praia do Amado. Widely known as one of the top surfing spots in Europe, is a popular hangout for all seasons offering vacation programs Don’t miss the magic of the cliffs of Telheiro, Ponta Ruiva and Cordoama, all fantastic and wild places that deserve a visit. Let yourself be dazzled by the sunset at Cape St Vicente Lighthouse in Sagres, and finish the day dining in an hippie chic environment in Carrapateira, where dozens of surfers who travel the world in search of the best waves get together.
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This used to be known as fim do mundo (the end of the world) and it feels like it, with the ocean stretching as far as the eye can see.
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Our Poet
Sophia de Mello Breyner Some poets make poems the way a builder builds a home – verse by verse, brick by brick. For Sophia de Mello Breyner, the whole world is home, and poetry is just a matter of seeing and of being. Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen usually spent her holidays in Lagos, where she had a residence, and took often refuge in the the caves of Ponta da Piedade, to think and write. The sea is probably the most central theme in her poetical works. The act of poetry and the act of living are, to her inseparable. She defines poetry as “an art of being” that “does not require my time and labour. Born in Porto in 1919, Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen moved to Lisbon to study at the university, the city where she lived her life. Considered one of Portugal’s most important 20th century poets, she has won numerous literary prizes 38
and is widely translated. The poetry of her thirteen published collections, imbued with a rare luminosity and precision, is at once ‘profound’ and ‘superficial’, effectively eliminating the distinction between inner and outer. “Poetry,” she explains, “is my understanding with the universe, my way of relating to things, my participation in reality, my encounter with voices and images. That is why the poem speaks not of an ideal life but of a concrete one: the angle of a window, the resonance of streets, cities and rooms, the shade cast by a wall, a sudden face, the stars’ silence, distance and brightness, the night’s breathing”
“ of the world “ OfI loveall thewithcorners a stronger and deeper love
I smell the earth the trees and the wind That spring fills with perfumes
That ecstatic and naked beach,
But of them I only want and search
Where I joined the sea,
The waves’ savage excitement
the wind and the moon.
Rising towards the stars like a pure scream
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Our Choice
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vintage objects
Come and discover Casa Sul, a place decorated with love! Casa Sul is totally decorated with restored vintage furniture, a project carried out by Alma Portuguesa, a creative company that values what is Portuguese: our traditions, our symbols, our legends. Most of the pieces used to belong to the owner’s grandmother, and were brought to life again, using mostly light colours and ancient tecniques. We hope you enjoy the concept as much as we had fun planning and implementing it.
www.almaportuguesa.pt 40
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Our stories
Hello Everyone! My name is Sul, and I’m a terrific family dog. My owner once read in a pet’s newspaper that Labradors mature slowly, remaining a spirited teenager for several years. … For me it sounds fun, but if you ask to my parents those you have the patience and luck to live with me, they will say that does require infinitive doses of patience and training to manage me. Living in this family is such an amazing experience, and given me enough vigorous exercise, do not stop me to a rambunctiousness and destructive chewing. My youngest member of my family provided me a box filled with toys that I love to carry around on my mouth. I’m a stubborn and lovely dog, but what I can do … sometimes you need a lithe bit of South, to not lose your North.
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Have a nice holiday at Casa Sul, in Lagos Alexandra
Portuguese Soul Rentals www.portuguesesoulrentals.com portuguesesoulrentals@gmail.com