Concept Development Report by patricia quille

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Submitted by

Patricia Quille Student #: QUI09269437 BA (HONS) Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and Development Final Year Unit 1: Concept Development Word Count 4329

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a personal thoughtâ&#x20AC;Ś

Today, amongst intensive competition and faltering consumer demand, the prospects of survival for a startup business are at best challenging, if not slim. Indeed one might ponder the question, does the world really need another footwear label? The answer is of course it does! The world needs Left of Field. Left of Field is a vehicle for a point of view. We stand for freedom of expression, individuality and the right to nonconformity. We pride ourselves on our off-beat humour and inject each of our creations with a generous dose of this vital ingredient. Read on. We will introduce you to our Left of Field tribe, our competitors, how we will spread the word and much much more. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our story we hope you enjoy it!

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is hard work and great art to make life not so serious.â&#x20AC;? John Irving, 1981

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CONTENTS 1

Concept

Introducing the Brand

2.1

Brand Name

2.2

Brand Ethos

2.3

Mission Statement

2.4

Branding Tools

Meet the Followers

3.1

Primary Consumer

3.2

Primary Consumer

The World Today - Global Trends

4.1

Global Trends for the Next Ten Years

4.2

PESTLE

4.3

SWOT For Left of Field

Overview of the Womens Global Footwear Market

Why Left of Field Should Analyse the Global Footwear Market 34

5.2

Overview of Women’s Global Footwear Market Retail Value 2007 - 2012 (RSP) in £mn 35 Highest Consumers of Women’s Footwear Per Region in 2012 36

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5.5

Main Asia Pacific Markets in Women’s Footwear Consumption in 2012

Analysis of the European Market in 2012

5.6 Conclusion

Consumer Analysis

6.1

Consumer Trends

6.2

Impact of Consumer Trends on Left of Field

6.3

Who is buying What and Where?

6.4

Establishing the Left of Field Consumer

Market Positioning

7.1

Where will Left of Field Position Itself in the Market?

7.2

Left of Field - An “Affordable Luxury” Brand

7.3

Market Position Chart

7.4

Why Position the Brand in the Luxury Market?

7.5

What is the Future for the Luxury Footwear Market

5.1

5.3

5.4

8 Competitors

Competitors Overview Chart

8.1

Core Competitor - United Nude

8.2

Core Competitor - Robert Clergerie

8.3

Core Competitor - Opening Ceremony

8.4

Core Competitor - Chie Mihara

8.5

Secondary Competitor - Marni

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How will Left of Field Start the Brand?

9.1

Overview of Research and Resources Available to Start-Up Footwear Brands

9.2

How Do You Shop For Footwear Individual Result

104

Competitor Interview - United Nude

106

Talk to an Entrepreneur

United Nude Customer - Felicitas Stern

107

9.3

Funding the Brand

United Nude Retail Store Concept

108

9.4

Production and Supply Chain

Robert Clergerie Customer - Julia Frakes

108

9.5

Structuring a Range Plan

Competitor Interview - Robert Clergerie

109

9.6

How will Left of Field Manage Distribution

Business Concept Signpost

110

9.7

How to Open Wholesale Accounts

Interview with Entrepreneur

112

Structuring a Range Plan

113

Advantage & Disadvantage of Distribution Model

114

Buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Viewpoint of Start-Up Brands Survey Results

116

9.8 Conclusion 10

How Does Left of Field Spread the Word?

10.1

Managing Online Communication

10.2 Editorial

10.3

10a

Advantage & Disadvantage of Social Media Platforms

117

10.4 Advertising

11a

Rem Koolhaus talks collaborations

118

Left of Filed Business Strategy

Bibliography

11.1

Left of Field Business Strategy

Public Relations

11.2 Collaborations

11.3

Advise from Tom Ford

11.4 Conclusion

119

Acknowledgements 126 Brand Ethos Board

128

Mood Board

130

Appendices 94

Colour Board

132

Justification of 3D Technology in Concept

Inspiration Board

134

How Do You Shop For Footwear Group Results

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Research 136

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1 Concept

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1.1

Left of Field was created to present a new footwear aesthetic to the world. A fusion of innovative design, technology, diverse materials and personality are the vital ingredients required to achieve this objective.

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1.1.1

Innovative design At Left of Field, every project commences with one core passion: innovative design. The integration of technology such as 3D printing and laser cutting never ceases to yield unique and wildly imaginative results. Left of Field is a fusion of futurist-meets-craftsmanship aesthetic, employing an unusual blend of man-made composites and natural materials to realise its vision.

1.1.3 Collaboration

1.1.4

1.1.2 Brand Vision

Left of Field has a strong personality, it has a story to tell. By embracing social media the brand will articulate its ethos, its mission and engage its target audience in a conversation. A cohesive branding approach to marketing and public relations will deliver a defined unambiguous brand vision.

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Left of Field constantly seeks new working methods, techniques and materials hence collaboration is key to the brand. Collaboration presents a new dynamic, a fresh perspective, a different knowledge source but fundamentally collaboration builds relationships.

1.1.5

Premium - Entry Level Luxury Price Point: (ÂŁ170 -ÂŁ300)

Left of Field has an innate understanding of its target market. The use of comprehensive market research undertaken by the company informs the brand of its consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lifestyle choices and spending habits.

Quality Materials Left of Field understands that good design is more than just an aesthetic, it must also serve a function, it must fulfill a need. As its manufacturing base is located in Spain, the brand has access to a large volume of high quality suppliers. Hence only the finest quality leathers and components will be used to produce each collection. Left of Field will produce its own range of lasts. While this method will help Left of Field achieve a unique product (by not using factory standard lasts), it will also give the brand control over fitting issues (can trial and amend the prototype last prior to grading and producing other size lasts).

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1.1.6

Considered Product Range

The product offering will focus primarily on flat to mid-height shoes.

Left of Field incorporates technology such as 3D printing, CNC milling and laser cutting to accelerate the sampling time.

CAD programmes such as Rhino, allow a prototype (eg.heel) to be modelled, scaled to fit the last, printed and then given to the supplier for reproduction.

The role of this technology in the sampling process is to better communication of ideas between the supplier and designer.

The goal is to decrease sampling time, hence allowing the brand to receive prompt feedback, react appropriately and ultimately lead to a desirable product for potential buyers of the brand. See - Appendix 1

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2 Introducing the Brand

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2.1 Brand Name

Historian Arnold Shaw wrote in 1949 for the Music Library Association that the term “out of left field” was first used in the idiomatic sense of “from out of nowhere” by the music industry to refer to a song that unexpectedly performed well in the market (Arnold, 1949). Out of left field” is American slang meaning “unexpectedly”, “odd” or “strange”.The phrase came from baseball terminology referring to the area covered by the left fielder who has the farthest throw to first base.

2.2

Brand Ethos

“At Left of Field, we are a hodgepodge of curious characters.We appreciate “different”, thrive on nonconformity and always aim for the “unexpected”. We value collaboration, open communication and shared experiences.We will detail every step of our journey with you; from our inspirations to our research, ultimately our aim is to entertain you.”

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2.3 Mission Statement

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our mission is to understand and fulfil your footwear requirements.We understand the necessity of comfort, quality and functionality but we also know you desire more - added value. Hence we create a strong identity, a desirable aesthetic, a persona that our followers can merge into their own style.â&#x20AC;?

Products are created in the factory. Brands are created in the mind. Walter Landor, Founder of Landor Associate

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2.4 Branding Tools

www.leftoffield.com Home page Log in Registration My Account Shopping Bag (5) Search

shop women’s about

Shop Women’s All categories Ankle Boots Boots Lace-ups Pumps Sandals Wedges

our world

where to find us

S/S 2014 has just landed!!

Shipping to: United Kingdom Change Newsletter insert your e-mail Customer Care / Shipping / Returns / Legal / Area / Policy / Site Map powered by YOOX Group - Copyright @ 2000 - 2013 YOOX S.p.a - All Rights Reserved

Figure 2.1 Left of Field Website

Figure 2.3 Left of Field Look Book

Figure 2.2 Left of Field Concept Store

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We just might have a present for you! Ladies!! You asked and We listened! Due to the avalanche of email requests, Left of Field knows that the launch of the "Susie Bubble Beauty" is much anticipated and we don't blame you! We are just as excited about getting them on our twinkle toes as you are!!. While our factory are still busy putting the finishing touches to these art works, we have managed to wrangle a pair out of them!! So how to secure these beauties??? Left of Field wants to see how you would team these Bubbles with your wardrobe...so get snapping and get posting to our Left of Field facebook page... Winner will be announced on the 6th January. Good luck to you all! The Left of Field Crew

Figure 2.5 Left of Field Competition Time!

S/S â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;14 Kicking off..........

Figure 2.4 Left of Field Facebook Page

er hoes ev s t s e b the !! his bag are in t

I am part of th

tribe

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Figure 2.6 Left of Field Carrier Bags

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3 The consumer Meet the Followersâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel. Maya Angelou

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3.1

Primary Consumer

Meet Nancy… most likely to purchase from Left of Fields’ base range £170-£190 via an e-commerce site such as www.yoox.com.*

Nancy is a 28 -year-old content editor for the BBC, she lives in Clapham North with her sister Eloise, Dan a university friend and his girlfriend Ascen. Nancy’s annual income in £29,000 per annum. Nancy readily admits she watches an excessive amount of television. Her favourites been reality (The X-Factor), comedy and drama TV programming . She also devotes time to reading women’s glossy fashion magazines, she favours broadsheet newspapers over tabloids and tunes into BBC Radio 1. Nancy’s “interest in the arts is also reflected in her leisure pursuits as she enjoys going to music concerts, theatres and dancing” (Mintel, 2011).

For purchasing decisions Nancy is more likely to seek recommendations from her family or friends. Nancy enjoys drinking and dining out, this is an important part of her social life. She is unwilling to compromise on the quality of the food she consumes and is willing to pay a higher price for more ethically produced food (Mintel, 2011). Nancy remain moderately active playing twice weekly hockey games with Wayfarer’s Hockey Club. She has already planned a week-long sun holiday in Malta in April and is considering taking the Eurostar to Paris for some Christmas sale shopping in January. Nancy has already started to upload music onto her iPod for the trip and as well as downloading films to watch on her iPad. While she is not currently in a relationship she hopes to eventually marry and have a family.

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Being financially secure is a big priority in her life and goals like owning an expensive house and having a good job are comparatively more important to her. Nancy favours a basic grooming routine. She likes to look presentable and feminine but is not led by the latest must-have fashions. The majority of Nancy’s wardrobe is sourced from Zara, Topshop and occasionally Whistles. As Nancy has a generous disposable income available to her, she does with consideration splurge on an occasional luxury item. Nancy will carefully research this decision, first by visiting a store than seeking alternative options online. Having then read on-line reviews she will discuss the options with her friends and only then will she make a considered purchase.

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* Mintel 2011

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A 37-year-old freelance stylist, with an annual income of ÂŁ37,000. Elisa co-rents her one bed flat in Bethnal Green, London with her longterm partner George. They enjoy a hedonistic lifestyle and hence have little yearning to start a family. However they do have a cat named Ditto, who they inherited when a friend moved to Australia. Elisa describes herself as confident, spontaneous and a risk taker. However, friends may suggest she is a dominant character, headstrong, talkative and keen to lead. She thrives on being the centre of attention and many things that she does are motivated by having a story to tell at the end of it. Always eager to impress, Elisa ensures that she is always seen in something people will admire.

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3.2

Primary Consumer

Hello Elisa!....most likely to buy from Left of Fields’ “premium” collection £260-£300, in-store at Galeries Lafayette in Paris.*

Her “living for the moment” attitude results in little regard for her financial future or making provisions for retirement. Elisa travels frequently, she cites work and inspiration trips as reasons for travel. Antwerp, Milan, Paris and New York are regular haunts but little persuasion is needed to entice her to a new exotic location. Elisa is currently reading Grahame Greene’s “The Comedians” on her Kindle and has already downloaded her friend’s recommendation of Russell Bank’s “A permanent Member of the Family”. On Elisa’s “essential reading” research list are magazines such as Stylist, Love, Dazed and Confused and Wallpaper. However she will also read architecture, fine art magazines even gardening magazines as these are useful for prop ideas.

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The Victoria and Albert museum and the Tate Modern receive a monthly visit from Elisa. Her dislike of public transport is well documented however she will occasionally accede and use it when the weather deters her from cycling. Free time is spent socializing with friends at bars or seeking out new eateries in London. For Elisa shopping is work, she is constantly on alert for new material for current and future contracts. She uses her daily attire as an advertisement for her work. For Elisa, her signature style is a combination of high and low fashion, always completed with a key statement piece. Zara, Cos and Other Stories are her usual choice for wardrobe staples. For sourcing unique pieces the British Red Cross charity shop in Chelsea never disappoints nor does Retro Clothing in Notting Hill.

For investment wardrobe items, research begins in Selfridges, Matches Fashions and The Shop at Bluebird while on-line Net-a-Porter, FarFetch and Wolf and Badger are favourite sites. While her compulsive nature can occasionally result in impulse buys, she does spend considerable time making and analysing her luxury purchases. For her purchasing a luxury product is an enjoyable experience, she enjoys time to linger and lounge, scrutinise the products, observe the store layout, the staff and assess other customers attire.

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* Mintel 2011

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4 THE WORLD TODAY GLOBAL TRENDS

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4.1

Global Trends for the Next Ten years

Table 4.1: Global Trends for the Next Ten Years*

Economic Uncertainty • Persistent unemployment and stagnant economic growth in developed markets. • Eurozone debt crisis and a lack of political consensus on how to resolve it, raising concerns over future of the euro. The Emerging Middle Classes • Income growth in emerging markets brings swathes of consumers out of poverty, especially in China, Brazil and India. • Middle class consumers have increased discretionary income to spend The Disaffected Youth • Many qualified young workers are either jobless and supported by parents or the state, furthering their education or making do in menial jobs. • Sectors for which young people are key consumers, such as electronics and clothing, have generally suffered due to the fall in youth spending power.

WARC 2013

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The Rich/Poor Divide • The gap between richest and poorest members of society is growing, for reasons such as technological progress, unfair taxation, disproportionate wage increases and urbanisation, this will result in bi-polarisation of demand towards both premium and budget brands The Climate Challenge • Manufacturers will focus on reducing carbon output and producing energy and watersaving devices. The Urban Transition • The pace of urbanisation has accelerated in recent years, with city growth reaching unprecedented levels in emerging markets such as China, Indonesia, India and Turkey. • Urbanisation contributing to a rising number of more sophisticated middle class consumers, driving demand for a range of convenience-orientated goods and services.

People on the Move • As the world becomes smaller, travel cheaper and restrictions more relaxed, more people are choosing to live, study or work abroad. • South Korea is growing strongly as a destination for migrants from all over Asia. A World More Connected • Burgeoning internet usage across the world is being fuelled by growth in developing markets. • The internet is increasingly being accessed via smartphones and tablets as consumers seek convenience and mobility. China Goes Global • China’s image as a manufacturing base for cheap imitation products is changing as quality Chinese brands are emerging to rival the world’s leading brands, especially in areas such as white goods, electronics and fashion.

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4.2

PESTLE

Table 4.2: PESTLE Analysis*

Political • A change in political policy can impact on the growth of certain markets. For example Thailand’s minister of finance is seeking a cut in import duties on luxury goods. This policy may be undertaken to increase Thailand’s appeal among overseas tourists, in line with Singapore or Hong Kong, which have no tax on luxury goods. This contrasts to China’s policy of imposing a tax on luxury goods. Such changes in political policy can have immediate impacts on such markets. Economical • Disposable income is forecast to rise by more than 30% from 2011-2016 in countries such as China, Venezuela, Turkey, Thailand, Russia, Indonesia and Malaysia opening up new emerging markets for the brand to target

Social • Young people of today are faced with high unemployment, rising tuition fees, a lack of affordable housing and the burden of supporting ageing populations in the future. • Faced with few opportunities at home, more young people will travel abroad for study or work, creating a “brain drain” in some markets. Technological • Higher rates of PC, tablet and mobile phone ownership is being driven by rising disposable incomes, falling equipment costs and government subsidies. • The explosion in internet use is fundamentally changing the way people interact with one another and with companies.

Legal • New European Data Protection Laws (2013): Marketers will be forced to obtain “explicit consumer consent (“opt-in”) if their personal data is to be collected and used by companies, these data protection laws are likely to lead to significant changes in the way online companies do business (Canty, 2012). • A change to HMRC regulations regarding minimum wage and internships may impact on a start-up brands ability to recruit personnel (HMRC, 2013). Environment • Consumers will become increasingly aware of their carbon footprint and will adopt a more environmentally-friendly approach to their living and purchasing habits.

• Prospect of rising inflation, due to higher food and fuel prices may impact on consumer’s disposable income for discretionary spends such as footwear.

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WARC 2013

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How will these Global Trends impact on Left of Field?

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4.3

SWOT For Left of Field

Table 4.3: SWOT for Left of Field

Strengths • Consumers embracement of technology and social media will help Left of Field promote itself to a global audience • Global demand for luxury and premium goods is growing which is advantageous for Left of Field. • The “People on the Move” trend will benefit Left of Field as it will be easier to recruit staff from different cultural backgrounds. This staff member could provide the brand with insightful knowledge of their native market.

Weaknesses

Threats

• The Eurozone remains a challenging retailing environment hence limiting Left of Field’s potential to succeed in this market (Table 4.1).

• China is rapidly improving the quality of its manufacturing and potentially could become a competitor for other premium brands.

• Due to the impact of the current economic climate on the “youth” category and their disposable income, this profile cannot be classified as primary Left of Field consumers (Table 4.1).

• Chinese manufacturers also have the advantage of inherent cultural knowledge of the largest luxury market in the world.

Opportunities • Opportunities for expansion of the brand into new markets as wage increases result in an “emerging middle class”. • Increased urbanization will benefit the exposure of the brand as an increased concentration of consumers view the brand in department stores and boutiques

• Increased labour costs • Increased material costs as demands for leather increases across industries such as automotive, aviation, apparel etc. • Data protection laws may hinder the brands ability to access market research on consumer trends and other relevant marketing information.

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5 OVERVIEW OF THE WOMEN’S GLOBAL FOOTWEAR MARKET

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5.1

Why Left of Field needs to be aware of Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Footwear Market Activity Table 5.1 Why Left of Field needs to analyse the Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Footwear Market

Why Study the Global Footwear Market?

Informs the brand of future trends in the market place and hence allowing the brand to plan strategically.

Identify stagnant or contracting markets which offer limited opportunities for the brand.

Establish if global footwear market is currently in decline or expansion

Identify emerging markets which may provide expansion opportunities for the brand

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5.2

Overview of Women’s Global Footwear Market Graph 5.1 Overview of Women’s Global Footwear Market Retail Value 2007—2012 (RSP) in £mn

The Women’s Global Footwear Market Retail Value (RSP) in 2012 was £116,253.6mn, as Compared to £92,444.8mn in 2007. 120K

GB million £

£116.2K

£108K £101.9K 100K

£92.4K

80K

2007

£94.1K

2008

£95.7K

2009

2010

2011

2012

Current Prices | Fixed 2012 Exchange Rates Research Sources: Apparel: Euromonitor from trade sources/ national statistics. Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using fixed exchange rates. © Euromonitor International (Euromonitor, 2013)

Analysis:

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Year on year the footwear market has continued to grow. Left of Field believes that this trend will continue as evidenced in Table 4.1.

This data confirms growing global demand for footwear and hence potential for new footwear brands to enter this expanding market.

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5.3

Regions which are the Highest Consumers of Women’s Footwear in 2012

Graph 5.2 Regional Overview of Women’s Footwear Consumption in 2012 (RSP) £mn

5.4

Main Asia Pacific Markets in Women’s Footwear Consumption in 2012 Graph 5.3 Main Asia Pacific Markets in Women’s Footwear Consumption in 2012 (RSP) in £mn

GB million £

30.6K

15.3K

Asia Pacific

China

1.1K Australasia

1.5K

13.6K

Eastern Europe

15.1K

Latin America

4.8K

Hong Kong, China

2.3K

India

1.K

Indonesia

4.6K

Middle East and Africa

Japan

0.4K

Malaysia

0.5K

Philippines

0.2K

Singapore

1.3K 26.K

North America

24.2K

Western Europe

10K

15K

20K

25K

30K

South Korea

0.6K

Taiwan

0.7K

Thailand

0.3K

Vietnam

35K

Research Sources: Apparel: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics. Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using fixed exchange rates. © Euromonitor International (2013)

10K

15K

20K

Research Sources: Apparel: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics © Euromonitor International (2013)

Analysis

Why is China leading the market?.

This chart illustrates that in 2012, the Asian Pacific market was the main consumer of womens footwear. Due to the economic woes in Western Europe as detailed in Table 4.1, this market has stagnated while the middle class boom in Asia is responsible for accelerated growth in this region (Warc, 2013).

The Chinese economy, for example, has grown tenfold since 1978, and the economic growth of China and India alone has pulled over 700 million people out of poverty (Curry, 2011).

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5.5

Analysis of the European Market in 2012

5.6 Conclusion

Graph 5.4 Overview of Women’s Footwear Consumption in the European Market in 2012 (RSP) £mn * indicates modelled

Despite challenging economic times, the global footwear market continues to expand and future trends indicate that this will continue. While an expanding market is positive for Left of Field, the brand must at all times understand the dynamics of this growing market. Awareness of current and future trends in the global footwear market is imperative to Left of Field’s expansion strategy. This information will highlight potential new markets, growing markets and ultimately faltering markets.

GB million £ 0.678K

Austria

0.7830 Belgium* 0.368

Denmark

0.276K

Finland*

3.279K

France

4.480K

Germany

0.268

Greece

0.184K

Ireland*

4.057K

Italy

1.276K

Netherlands

0.517

Norway

0.356

Portugal

2.415K

Spain

0.521K

Sweden

0.467K

Switzerland*

1.133K

Turkey

3.181K

United Kingdom 0

Research Sources: Apparel: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics © Euromonitor International (2013)

Analysis

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As detailed in Table 4.1 the Eurozone is in a continued recessionary period hence impacting on consumers disposable income for discretionary spending. In 2012, Germany was the largest european market, while the UK was ranked as the fourth highest consumer of womens footwear.

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6 Consumer Analysis

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6.1

Consumer Trends

According to Verdict “today’s consumers are valueconscious, interactive, multicultural, socially responsible and always connected” (Verdict, 2012).

Table 6.1: 10 Global Consumer Trends for the Next Five Years

The search for value

A more cautious approach to credit

People power

The fight against obesity

New attitudes towards growing old

The rise of social conscience

The chemical backlash

Mobile cocooning

Experience-based consumption

Multicultural consumerism

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6.2

Impact of Consumer Trends on Left of Field

Table 6.2 Impact of Consumer Trends on Left of Field

Opportunities for Left of Field: • Consumers will become more vocal as more people come online, benefiting websites and apps such as Twitter, hence this development will provide Left of Field with feedback regards the brand and their competitors • Monitoring conversations about brands and engaging in dialogue with customers will become a valuable way for marketers to obtain information. • Ads via social media will prove effective for creating buzz around a product. • Celebrity endorsement in social media will continue to be a major source of new business and traffic. • Successful crowdsourcing initiatives will help companies to drive brand development. Challenges for Left of Field • Since the start of the economic downturn, consumers have reined in spending and have become much more cautious about how, when and where they shop. • Purchases are now more considered and bargain hunting is more aggressive. • While brands and status are still important to many, these factors have been overshadowed by the need for durability and value. • With recovery slow and unemployment high, the thrifty mindset looks set to continue over the next five years.

6.3

Who is Buying What and Where?

According to Mintel, British women are 15 percentage points more likely to have bought flat shoes than heels in the last 12 months (Mintel, 2013). Flat shoes such as pumps are the most popular type of shoes, with over three fifths of women having bought them in the last 12 months (Mintel, 2013). Women also prefer flats when it comes to purchases of boots and sandals. Young women aged under 35 are the most likely to wear shoes with heels, peaking among 16-24s, as well as affluent females (Mintel, 2013). Women aged 25-34 spent the most on shoes in the last 12 months, spending an average of £171, compared with the overall female average of £137 (Mintel, 2013). Females under-25 have bought high volumes of shoes, this age group has spent less per average pair in value terms (Mintel 2013). High female spenders are biased towards Londoners, those in full-time employment, affluent ABs and parents with children aged under-nine, as well as those who describe their financial situation as healthy (Mintel 2013). Women who spent the most on shoes were inclined to shop at department stores, Schuh and independent shoe shops (Mintel 2013).

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6.4

Establishing the Left of Field Consumer

In order to gain a comprehensive understanding of Left of Field’s primary consumer, a survey was undertaken to establish the importance of price points, quality, comfort and style to the potential Left of Field consumer.

See Appendix 6a for results of this survey “How do You Shop For Footwear”?. Due to limitations of this proposal only key findings will be discussed in this section.

Results from the age range 20 -25 will not be discussed here, as this category significantly stated they were “not willing to spend more than £100” on any of the footwear styles - see Appendix 6b for individual participant survey. Hence this category will not fall within the Left of Field price architecture .

Figure: 6.1 “How do You Shop for Footwear?”

20 – 25 yrs

> 35 yrs

Total Respondents n = 68

26 – 30 yrs 31 – 35 yrs

20 - 25 yrs = 21 Participants 26 - 30 yrs = 9 Participants 31 - 35 yrs = 25 Participants >35 yrs = 13 Participants

*Please note this survey requested respondents to consider their footwear purchasing over a 12 month period.

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6.4.1 Survey “How Do You Shop For Footwear” Findings

6.4.2 Survey “How Do You Shop For Footwear” Findings

Table 6.3 Findings for the 26 - 30 years Age Category

Table 6.4 Analysis of Findings for the 31 - 35 Years Category

• Casual footwear was the most frequently purchased category •

•

• •

•

30% of respondents refused to sway from their budget.

• Styling is the number one priority for this age 90% of respondents were group but quality is willing to pay between £100 also an important factor - £200 for occasion shoes with all respondents 70% were prepared to spend achknowledging the between £100 - £150 on importance of quality in casual footwear footwear. 70% would only spend £100 • 65% are unwillingly to buy or less on work footwear. footwear online with fitting While purchasing footwear and quality issues cited as did not appear to be a been the most common challenge for this group deterents overall, flats and high • Of the 35% willingly to shop heels (> 70mm) were the online, the main reason 2 categories where most stated was to source the consumers struggled to product at a lower price shop. point 50% also displayed • This age category were willingness to spend 30% significantly indifferent to more if presented with the country of origin of the right product while only product.

Conclusions As this age group move from education into the workforce they have increased disposable income which they are prepared to spend. Similar to their younger counterparts, style is the number one consideration for this age group but unlike their counterparts they are willing to pay more for it. However, with their increased spending ability come more demands, this group want a stylish, comfortable and quality product.

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• Casual footwear was the most frequently purchased category

• 25% were willing to enter the £150 - £200 bracket.

• 62% had purchased 5 pairs over the last 12 months

• 55% of respondents had purchased work footwear in the last

• 38% had bought “one or two pairs” in the same period.

• 70% will not spend more than £100 with only 30% willingly to pay £100 -£150.

• 75% are willing to pay £100 - £200 for casual footwear. • Occasion footwear 10% stated they did not purchase any over the 12 month period • 50% had bought “one or two pairs” of occasion footwear • 40% has bought 3 pairs • 50% were willing to pay £100 - £150 for occasion shoes

• While 60% agreed with the statement ”must be a quality product otherwise I will not buy” , • 30% were willing to compromise comfort over style. • Quality is also a priority, with 78% stating it was “very important” or “important”

Conclusions This market in general would now be established in their careers, they are probably unmortgaged, and possibly still without children hence she has potentially the highest disposable income as compared with the other age markets. This consumer also demands a quality product.

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6.4.3 Survey “How Do You Shop For Footwear” Findings Table 6.5 Analysis of Findings for the >35 Years Category

Least likely to purchase occasion wear footwear and tend to be mass market consumers unwilling to spend on premium or luxury footwear.

75% stated that they would be “willing to exceed their budget by 30% if they found the right footwear.”

Most participants did not cite finding appropriate footwear a major challenge but observed that flats (38%) and heels >70mm (62%) are the most challenging to shop.

Conclusion: This age group are most likely to be homeowners and/or have children. The burden of financial outgoings may play a role in the decreased demand for occasion footwear and also their unwillingness to splurge on footwear.

Similar to the 25 - 35 age bracket a stylish, quality and comfortable product is demanded from this category.

80% of participants stated they do not shop footwear online due to potential “fitting problems with the shoe”, (75%) and 25% stating they like to “examine the quality of the shoe”.

Most, 80% are indifferent to where the product is made, however 80% cited comfort as a must otherwise they would not purchase the product.

The quality factor returned mixed results with 38% agreeing with the statement “it must be a quality product, otherwise I will not buy”, 12% stated while “it was important, quality was not the most important issue”, 24% felt that while quality is important, they “were not willing to pay a premium price for this”, finally 26% were indifferent agreeing with the statement “once the shoes looks good I don’t really care”.

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Table 6.6 Overview of Relevant Commentary from the Survey

See Appendix 6a

On Style • “lack of nice dressy flats for women out there that aren’t a ballet pump or a converse sneaker, some stores have brogues but a lot of stores go for boots or sandals for the flat option and the just aren’t enough shoe options! would like more variations on flats. oxfords derbys loafers etc please”! On Quality • “Depends on how much I’ve spent on them - for a very simple pair of flats that I wear 3 times I really don’t care, but everything else has to be good quality”. On Comfort

so I find it a lot easier to shop online at night and order a few styles in 2 different sizes (normally size 5 and 6) and then send back the unwanted ones”. • “I will only buy shoes online if I know the size and style I want because I’ve already got a pair and want a replacement or another colour”. Country of Manufacture • “I like to know where the shoes are made rather than not knowing at all. However the country of origin will not pursued or deter a prospective purchase”. • “Never considered this” Purchasing an Unknown Brand

• “Depends on what its for. For work and day shoes comfort is top priority. With occasion shoes I would forego the comfort factor (to a certain extent) for the style”.

• “If I knew that the quality was good and liked the materials used then I would have no problem buying shoes from an unfamiliar brand. I would probably look them up first before I bought them though”.

• “I will not wear uncomfortable flat shoes, but a beautiful pair of heels I will suffer forever for”

• “I don’t care about brands, if I like the look, fit, quality and price I buy it”.

On Price • “The higher the price the more I demand high quality” • “If I really love something...which is rare, i will find a way to buy it, as long as it’s not crazy expensive” On-line Purchasing • “I don’t have that much spare time to go out shopping

On Left of Field Brand Name • “It’s different but not sure it suits shoes , more sports wear?” • Hippyish or alternative! • “different but I wouldnt immediately think its related to shoes”

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7 Market Positioning

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39 38

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7.1

Where will Left of Field Position Itself in the Market?

Table 7.1 SWOT Analysis for Left of Field

Strengths • Innovative design • Strong brand personality • Unique aesthetic • Quality product • Product to market place before competitors Weaknesses • Niche market, its aesthetic will not have mass appeal hence limited room for expansion outside that niche market, • No brand heritage • Brand is unknown • No advertising fund available hence can avail only of social media & editorial for press coverage • Implementing and updating a successful social media strategy

*( WARC 2013)

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can be time-consuming

Opportunities

• To secure editorial coverage is competitive

• Brand is positioned in the expanding luxury market segment

• Buyers may need time to see brand development before considering stocking the brand in-store

• Use a distributor to help the brand enter new and “emerging” luxury markets,

• Small production scale, may not be able to negotiate discounts & good T&C’s from suppliers • Limited funds for contracting experts (in eg. marketing and graphic design) hence the brand image may be impacted if a cohesive marketing message is not communicated across all medias. • Established brands create countryspecific websites to extend their reach globally, however due to financial constrictions Left of Field cannot provide such a service placing it at a disadvantage to competitor brands.

• Collaborate with established creatives to gain brand exposure • Maximise editorial exposure • Use a cohesive social media approach to create a strong brand image Threats • a strong aesthetic may be copied by high street, dilute the brand image • other major luxury players who have revenue for advertising and own stand alone stores • competitors - increasing materials/ labour costs

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7.2

Left of Field will Position itself as an “Affordable Luxury” Brand (£170 - £300)

Table 7.2. What are the Characteristics of an “Affordable Luxury” Brand?

Not exclusive Based on emotions Better quality, benefits and functionality Higher levels of innovation and creativity

Possess elements of craftsmanship but are not truly artisan in nature Not promoted as elite the way luxury brands are Appeal to a set of values that may be shared by people of many income levels in many walks of life Hameide, 2011

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7.3

Market Positioning Table 7.3 Market Positioning

Luxury Price Point

Classic

Quirky

High Street Price Point

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7.4

Why Position the Brand in the “Affordable Luxury” Market? The luxury market overall has demonstrated its resilience by defying the prolonged negative impacts of the global recession. According to Verdict “the global luxury goods market is forecast to exceed €300bn for the first time in 2013 – growing by over €100bn in just six years” (Verdict, 2013a). Verdict forecasts growth of 49.7% over the coming five years estimating that the global luxury market will reach €457.7bn in 2018 as economic growth strengthens consumer demand (Verdict, 2013a). The emergence of an affluent middle class in the emerging markets has helped to bolster the luxury market (Table 4.1). However Left of Field will target the “affordable liuxury” segment of this luxury market. According to Furla’s CEO Poletto “there is big potential in terms of population -[in China]– the number of people who want affordable luxury” (WGSN, 2013a). He continues “because there has been some slowdown in China’s overall economy...the opportunity is on the premium

side” (WGSN, 2013a)

Further evidence that the “affordable luxury” market is expanding comes from the Michael Kors’ group. WGSN Newsteam states that “Michael kors’ “affordable luxury fashion ensured it was another stellar quarter as the US-based business reported a better-than-expected leap in Q2 profit and revenues and said it would open around 100 stores in 2014”(WGSN, 2013b)

7.5

What is the Future for the Luxury Footwear Market?

Verdict observes that accessories, which includes sales of fashion accessories (such as sunglasses, scarves) leather goods and shoes, “is forecast to account for 38.6% or €118.1bn of total expenditure in 2013” (Verdict, 2013a). This is an increase of 59.8% over the five year period from 2007, and, alongside watches and jewellery, Verdict states that “this sector is driving the global luxury goods market” (Verdict, 2013a). 41 42

40 43

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8 Competitors

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Table 8.1 Competitor Analysis C/W = multiple colourways available

Shoe - Flat

Boots - Flat

Ballet Flats

Sandals - Flat

£235 - £250 3 styles C/W

£186 - £330 6 styles C/W

N/A

£255 - £465 15 styles

£325 - £515 8 styles

£150 - £225 3 styles

£195 - £290 3 styles

£230 - £260 10 styles C/W

£295 - £320 3 styles C/W

N/A

£185 - £220 7 styles C/W

N/A

£119 - £135 3 styles C/W

£75 - £138 2 styles C/W

£86 - £195 3 styles C/W

£170 - £300 3 styles C/W

£210 - £250 1 style C/W

£170 - £190 2 styles C/W

£320 - £530 13 styles C/W

£390 - £670 4 styles C/W

N/A

£170 - £210 2 styles C/W

£170 - £480 14 styles

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Quality Scale 5 = excellent 1 = poor

Comfort Scale 5 = excellent 1 = poor

£220 - £260 4 styles C/W

£290 - £558 2 styles

£348 - £520 19 styles

£290 - £424 60 styles C/W

£200 - £270 65 styles C/W

£214 - £275 70 styles C/W

£139 - £750 25 styles C/W

£295 - £356 2 styles C/W

£119 - £279 9 styles C/W

£210 - £250 1 style C/W

£210 - £300 3 styles C/W

£170 - £300 2 styles C/W

£420 - £500 2 styles

£360 - £490 5 styles

£380 1 style

Sneakers

Boot - Mid / High Heel

Sandal - Mid/ High Heel

Pump - Mid/ High Heel

£180 - £201 4 styles C/W

£248 - £276 7 styles C/W

£186 - £248 5 styles C/W

N/A

£400 - £635 26 styles

N/A

£125 1 style C/W

N/A

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8.1

Core Competitor:

United Nude was founded in 2003 by Dutch architect Rem D. Koolhaas and Galahad Clark, of the Clark’s footwear family (United Nude, 2013). According to Avery (2013) “United Nude embrace the use of hybrid materials as the future; never afraid to combine product design and architectural details with footwear, the brand’s styles are always thought provoking and cutting edge” (WGSN, 2013).

8.1.2 Social Media Overview

Social Media

f t

United Nude is active on many social media platforms, and launched a print and video advertising campaign in February 2013 to promote its spring/ summer 2013 collection.

8.1.3 See Appendix 8a

250,581 likes (Facebook, 2013)

8,136 followers (Twitter, 2013)

2,956 followers (Instagram, 2013) 483 followers (Pinterest, 2013)

Interview with United Nude staff member.

In addition, Koolhaas has plans to make United Nude “a very diverse lifestyle brand...our goal is to be a big player”(Lewis, 2012). United Nude has undertaken various high profile collaborations with other creatives such as Iris Van Herpen, Zaha Hadid and K-Swiss (United Nude, 2013). These collaborations offer an innovative product at a higher price point, raise the brand profile as well as attracting press and editorial coverage.

Figure 8.1 United Nude Website - Homepage

United Nude’s head office is in Guangzhou, China as is its production facility.

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8.1.4 What do United Nude’s Consumers think about the Brand?

8.1.5 The United Nude Consumer

According to Facebook, United Nude is most “liked” by the age profile 25-34,and London is identified as the city where the brand is most popular.

Consumer: Felicitas Stern

(see Appendix 8b)

United Nude Consumer Comments:

H.N. (2010)

“United Nude is extremely inconsistent in sizing, Despite these inconsistencies in fit .....the styles truly are like no one else’s.”

Serena (2010)

“As an architecture major and shoe fanatic, United Nude is as good as it gets”.

Melanie (2010)

“Arriving home...trying on the flats, I immediately developed blisters. Who gets blisters from flats??I have to say the quality of these shoes is horrendous”.

• Felicitas purchased United Nude’s “winter eros in black” • • •

Felicitas Stern: “Got those in black and really love them!” Like · Reply · 5 November at 05:22 via mobile

• Works as: Student Assistant at Tilburg University and Junior Associate Lawyer at NautaDutilh N.V. • Lives in Rotterdam, Netherlands Likes:

Tamar (2013)

“Their flagship store in Amsterdam is a beautiful display space for the artistic creations. I love the glowing cubes that change color, highlighting the sculptural silhouette of the shoes”. 59

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Figure 8.2 Felicitas Stern’s Facebook “likes”

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8.1.6 United Nude Store

8.1.7 United Nude Distribution

Appendix 8c - Details United Nudeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Store Concept

United Nude shoes are sold in over 40 countries, with flagship stores in Amsterdam, London and New York.

United Nude also e-tails on-line via its webpage www.unitednude. com as well as other e-commerce sites such as Amazon, Yoox and Shoeshoplive United Nude also has stores in (United Nude, 2013) VIENNA NICOSIA GUANGZHOU TOKYO OSAKA TEL AVIV SEOUL

Figure 8.3 United Nude Store - 13 Floral Street, London

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8.1.8 United Nude Range Plan & Pricing Structure

8.1.9 SWOT Analysis for United Nude

Table 8.1 SWOT Analysis for United Nude

United Nude offers 4 collections per season (United Nude, 2013) Autumn/Winter - Spring/Summer £99 — £325 (total 30 styles multiple colourways offered in each style)

Strengths • Recognisable design aesthetic • Brand founders have a complimentary skill-set: design and business

Hybrid Collection: £75 —£195 (total 3 styles multiple colourways offered in each style)

• Established supply chain • Use artist/designer collaboration to add kudos to the brand • Wide product offering allows brand target many consumer profiles

Ultra Collection: £269 — £339 (total 8 styles multiple colourways offered in each style)

• Competitive pricing due to manufacture in Asia • Effective social media strategy Weakness

Limited Edition: £199 — £1300 (total 9 styles multiple colourways offered in each style)

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• The “Made in China” label may not appeal to certain consumers • Niche market due to strong design aesthetic

Opportunities • Expand into new, emerging and established markets • According to founder Koolhaas “we’re not so big in America at the moment, so there’s a huge opportunity to grow”(Lewis, 2012). • Expand the United Nude brand to include accessories such as watches, sunglasses and jewelry. Threats: • China’s labour cost is rising hence this may impact on selling price or profit margins. • Rising global material costs. • Cheaper imitations may be introduced to the market copying the United Nude aesthetic

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8.2

Core Competitor:

8.2.1 The Robert Clergerie Ethos

According to Anniss, “Clergerie was a trendsetter with his chic, yet wearable style” (Anniss, 2010). He was the first designer to make women’s shoes on a men’s lasts, and is perhaps best known for the collection of women’s lace-up oxfords he launched in 1981” (Anniss, 2010). Roland Mouret, the current creative director of the brand defines “Robert Clergerie as a strong shoe. There’s an architectural quality, and though the shoes are feminine, they aren’t girly. It’s about a solid 1940′s silhouette—a wedge, a platform” (Singer, 2011).

8.2.2 Robert Clergerie Company Structure

In 2011, Mr Clergerie sold his majority share to RC Holdings, a company jointly owned by Fung Brands Ltd. and fashion veteran Jean-Marc Loubier (Socha, 2011). Fung Brands Ltd. is a subsidiary of Fung Capital Ltd., the investment arm of Hong Kong-based Fung family, who separately control the Li & Fung Group (Diderich, 2012).

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The Robert Clergerie brand has revenues of more than 20 million euros, however “Loubier noted the firm operates at break even” (Socha, 2011).

8.2.5 Appendix 8e

Interview with Robert Clergerie Store Manager.

8.2.6 Social Media Overview

8.2.3 Production

As of 2013, the company employs 200 people worldwide, with 140 of these staff based at the production segment in Romans, France (Socha, 2011). The factory produces 180,000 pairs of shoes per year, including the three Robert Clergerie brands (Robert Clergerie, J. Fenestrier, Espace and designer collaborations.) (Robert Clergerie, 2013)

f t

238 likes likes (Facebook, 2013)

50 followers (Twitter, 2013)

614 followers (Instagram, 2013)

8.2.4 Licensing

Robert Clergerie has signed a five-year footwear license agreement with Sonia Rykiel, beginning with spring 2014 (Diderich, 2013). Both labels are owned by Fung Brands, hence allowing the parent company take advantage of internal synergies.

Figure 8.4 Robert Clergerie Website Homepage

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8.2.7 The Robert Clergerie Consumer

(see Appendix 8d)

According to the social media website site Facebook, the Robert Clergerie facebook page was most liked by the age profile 25 - 34.

Consumer: Julia Frakes

8.2.8 Store & Distribution

Today, wholesale accounts for 65 percent of the total business, and Clergerie is stocked at U.S. department stores, including Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom, as well as key independents such as Tender and Davids in Toronto

Robert Clergerie is distributed in 25 directly managed mono-brand boutiques and e-tails on sites such as Net-aPorter, Polyvore and The Corner

• Age: estimated 28 – 30 • Works: The Sovereign Nation, Scranton, Paper Magazine • Lives: Pennsylvania, USA

Likes:

Figure 8.6 Robert Clergerie Store South Kensington, London Figure 8.5 Julia Frakes Facebook “Likes”

70 71

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8.2.9 Range Plan & Pricing Architecture

Offers two collections per year: Spring/Summer, Autumn/Winter

Total 84 styles per collection

8.2.10

SWOT Analysis for Robert Clergerie

Table 8.2 SWOT Analysis for Robert Clergerie

Strengths • Experienced designer Roland Mouret now at the helm of the brand (Socha, 2011).

Price architecture from £265 - £721

• A unique selling point of the Robert Clergerie brand is the “Made in France” factor. • Mouret states “it’s part of the price of the shoes — part of the investment — knowing that they were made in France” (Singer, 2011).

£440

• The Robert Clergerie brand is now part of the Fung family allowing it to avail of the internal synergies of the parent company.

£265

• Has a celebrity following and receives editorial/PR from fashion magazines such as Vogue and Grazia.

£365

• Provides comfort footwear. According to Mouret “That is really a signature of Robert Clergerie, comfort” (Singer, 2011). Weakness

£515

£420

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Clergerie CEO Eva Taub cites the challenge of “combining cost-effective sourcing with French manufacturing” as there is a “dearth of secondary suppliers” due to company closures such as Charles

Jourdan (Diderich, 2013) • France has a legal limit of 35 working hours per week hence this delays the time taken to bring products to the market and ultimately the ability to expand the company into new markets. Mouret notes the impact for the brand: “People need to realize that Made in France products are not aimed at the domestic market but at foreign consumers, who have different buying habits (Diderich, 2013) • It appears Robert Clergerie has not yet embraced social media such as Facebook and Twitter. Left of Field’s core competitor United Nude has 250,531 Facebook follower and 8,119 Twitter followers, as compared to Robert Clergerie’s 233 and 47 respectively. • This lack of engagement with social media may suggest Robert Clergerie is ignoring a potential online market. Opportunities • Potential to expand the brand into new, emerging and mature markets. • Loubier said he sees “significant expansion potential in Europe, the

U.S. and Asia, and that the business could double in size in four or five years” (Socha, 2011). • Introduction of a Robert Clergerie e-store may potentially increase revenue for the brand as it eliminates the third party retailer • A strategic social media approach may yield new markets for the brand. • Expansion of mens footwear range, at the moment it is only currently available to purchase in Paris (Quille, 2013). Threats • Brand is reliant on its “Made in France” aspect hence negative political or economical factors in France could greatly impact on the brand. • Increased labour and material costs • Exposure to currency fluctuations as brand retails outside the eurozone region • Clergerie’s “original innovation — interpreting masculine shoes for women” — is currently in line with trends (Socha, 2011), however this trend may decline in the future potentially future sales.

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8.3

Core Competitor:

8.3.1 An overview of Opening Ceremony

Since launching as a single store in Manhattan’s SoHo in 2002, founders Lim and Leon have grown Opening Ceremony into a hydra-headed emporium of cool (Lipke, 2013).

Opening Ceremony “prides itself on principles of exploration and friendship, working with a family of contributors to forge a creative environment that reaches far beyond the fashion world” (Opening Ceremony, 2013). Opening Ceremony has collaborated with brands such as Rodarte, Topshop, Maison and also creatives like Chloë Sevigny (Opening Ceremony, 2013).

In 2011, Lim and Leon became creative directors of Kenzo, as well as continuing with the Opening Ceremony brand.

8.3.2 Production

8.3.3

Social Media

Opening Ceremony footwear is produced under license by Six, London. SIX operates a production sourcing agency, developing footwear in Porto, Portugal (Six, 2013).

f t

114,314 likes likes (Facebook, 2013)

100,626 followers (Twitter, 2013)

142,728followers (Instagram, 2013)

active tumblr account

Figure 8.7 Opening Ceremony Website - Homepage 78 77 79

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8.3.4 The Opening Ceremony Consumer

According to the social media website site Facebook, the Opening Ceremony facebook page was most liked by the age profile 25 - 34, with Seoul, South Korea being its most popular fanbase.

Consumer: Claire Lockerbie • Age 35 - estimated • Works as a dentist (Potential earnings £50,000+) • Located Glasgow

Figure 8.8 Celebrity Client Solange Knowles

• Clothing likes - Band of Outsiders, MSGM • Activities - Massage, Macrobiotic cooking, Yoga

Figure 8.9 Opening Ceremony Fan Claire Lockerbie

Likes:

87 86

Figure 8.10 Claire Lockerbie Facebook “Likes”

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8.3.5 Opening Ceremony Retail

8.3.6 Range Plan & Pricing Structure

30 Styles offered with varying colourways (Opening Ceremony, 2013)

Pricing architecture from £187 to £359

The company now encompasses six stores in New York, Los Angeles, Tokyo and London; a wholesale Opening Ceremony line of men’s and women’s wear that is sold in about 400 doors globally, including Barneys New York, Nordstrom, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and Printemps, and a multi-brand showroom that represents 10 independent labels (Lipke, 2013). The company also has an e-commerce site as well as e-retailing via MyTheresa, Polyvore and FarFetch.

Sneaker, low top - = £187

Mule, buckled - £290

Boot, chelsea - £310

Boot, Velvet metallic heel £280

Boot, nappa - £295

Sandals, embossed croc - £220 Figure 8.11 Opening Ceremony Store Covent Garden, London

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90 91

88 89

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8.3.7 Opening Ceremony SWOT Analysis

Table 8.3 SWOT Analysis for Opening Ceremony

Strengths • Undertakes high profile collaborations with designers such as Maison Martin Margiela and actresses Chloë Sevigny (Opening Ceremony, 2013), adding kudos to the brand. • The brand gains visibility and exposure with its biannual New York fashion week shows. • Brand receives celebrity endorsement from singers Rihanna and Justin Beiber as well as actress Kristen Dunst. • Opening Ceremony stores offer a unique retail concept. • While apparel is the core product in store, also for purchase are lifestyle goods such as music, art books and souvenirs.

• The brand has a visible social media presence (See social media in Introduction) and utilises these medias for product promotion and “storytelling”. • Opening Ceremony can and does utilize its stores for market research Weakness • Founders are creative directors for Kenzo, this may distract from their focus on the Opening Ceremony brand. • Opening Ceremony retails labels which are not exclusive to them, hence it faces competition from other retailers. • Opening Ceremony trades globally hence exposing the brand to currency fluctuations

Opportunity • Has financial means to expand into new and emerging markets. • Can test new markets first with its pop-up store before making financial commitments in new markets • Expand on license agreements for other lifestyle categories such as wallets, sunglasses accessories etc. According to Hameide “Successful licensing partnerships and products can enhance the image of the brand and help transform it into a lifestyle brand”(Hameide 2011, p. 88) Threats • Increased material costs • Increased labour costs

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8.4

Core Competitor:

8.4.1 Brand Overview: Chie Mihara

In 2002, Mihara launched her namesake brand Chie Mihara. Mihara states that “priority [is] placed on design and comfort, “we’re mothers, workers-all of us women! she said, “and we should have shoes that will match our needs. Mihara draws inspiration from vintage influences ranging from 1930s femininity to 1980s humor.

8.4.3 Social Media

f t

10,057 likes (Facebook, 2013) 1,771 followers (Twitter, 2013)

8.4.2 Production

The Chie Mihara company and footwear production is based in Elda, Spain. Since launching in 2002, “Chie Mihara has seen sales increase from about 1,300 pairs to more than 71,000 for fall ’10” (Young 2010).

Figure 8.12 Chie Mihara Website - Homepage

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8.4.4 The Chie Mihara Consumer

8.4.5 Retail & Stores

Chie Mihara has over 800 clients worldwide, including luxury department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in the U.S.A, Selfridges in England, Isetan in Japan, and Au Bon Marche in France. In 2008, she opened her flagship Chie Mihara store in Tokyo.

Chie Mihara is available to purchase on-line at Chie Mihara and e-commerce sites such as Amazon, Spartoo and FarFetch

According to the social media website site Facebook, the Chie Mihara facebook page was most liked by the age profile 25 - 44 years, with Athens, Greece having the largest Chie Mihara fanbase.

Hello! A long time without sending any pictures but today I come with a request, I need a replica of these beautiful red shoes! I keep wearing them for years with different kind of looks!! I have them in black also, but these are much more special. A kiss! Rosa

Figure 8.13 Chie Mihara Customer - Milla

This message is just to say thanks, and say that I am absolutely in love with my first two pair of Chie Mihara shoes, ever! Thank you so much for making these shoes Love from Milla

Oslo, Norway

So comfortable!!

Montse from NY

Figure 8.14 Chie Mihara Customer Montse

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8.4.6 Range Plan & Pricing Architecture

8.4.7 SWOT Analysis for Chie Mihara

Boots: ankle, knee high 24 styles: £333 -£498

Table 8.4 SWOT Analysis for Chie Mihara

Strength • Unique aesthetic; specific to the brand • Has own e-tail store, hence receives full retail price

Shoes: 75 styles £211 -£290

• Established supply and distribution chain Weakness • Chie Mihara has an unique aesthetic. However as Mihara notes this can be limiting “once you have associated yourself as the designer behind [the line], you can’t change the look too much” (Young, 2010). Hence Chie Mihara is a niche brand, limited in expansion outside of its target market.

Sandals: open/closed 43 styles:£190 - £270

Wedding shoes: 25 styles - £195 - £281

99 100

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• Website flaws: unexciting user interface, only lists country of stockists no stockist information • all collections S/S A/W are placed one page as opposed to segregating and making a sales pages

for easier viewing • Unwillingness to exploit their e-tail store -“We don’t want to be unfair competition,” she said, noting that online sales have previously made up less than 2 percent of the overall business. “You have to be respectful [of your retailers].”(Young, 2010) Opportunities • Extend the brand into new and emerging markets • Extend the category offer, consider a children’s line, accessories line • Seek out celebrity endorsement/PR, editorial coverage Threats • Increased labour costs and material costs • Closures of suppliers in Elda due to economic woes and competition from other markets in Asia and Portugal

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8.5

Secondary Competitor:

8.5.1 An overview of the Marni Brand

In 1994, Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni launched Marni, a luxury, eclectic women’s clothing and accessories collection (Marni, 2013). In addition to the women’s collection, Marni has also launched a men’s collection and an eyewear line. The company is based in Milan, Italy.

8.5.2 Social Media

8.5.3 The Marni Consumer

According to the social media website site Facebook, the Marni facebook page was most liked by the age profile 25 - 34 years old, with Milan, Italy being the main fanbase location.

Celebrity Consumers

£480

£370

Model - Miranda Kerr, Actresses - Jessica Chastain & Drew Barrymore

100,599 likes (Facebook, 2013)

£500

Figure 8.15 Marni Website - Homepage £400

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Figure 8.16 Marni’s Celebrity Fanbase

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8.5.4 Store & Retailing

8.5.5 SWOT Analysis for Marni

Marni’s distribution strategy targets a selective, niche clientele. Today, nearly 100 Marni stores figure in the world’s key fashion capitals of Milan, London, Paris, Madrid, New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Miami, Moscow, Tokyo, Seoul, Sydney, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing and Dubai (Marni, 2013) Overseeing the stores’ interior design, Consuelo maintains the distinctive Marni concept by giving each location its own, authentic character (Marni, 2013).

Table 8.5 SWOT Analysis for Marni

Strength • Strong brand aesthetic • Brand attracts an “exclusive” status adding to its desirability • Has celebrity endorsement as evidenced on facebook page (eg. actress: Eva Mendes) • Raised brand visibility through use of catwalk shows in fashion weeks • Luxury market is set to continue expanding hence this bodes well for the Marni brand Weakness • Marni is a luxury brand; to maintain this position it must spend considerable sums in innovation, prime retail locations and advertising

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• For example fashion shows are considered an expensive showcasing tool for any brand however for a brand to retain its luxury status this activity is a must. • Strong aesthetic may not appeal to particular segments of the luxury market Opportunity • Expand the Marni brand in to other product categories such as furniture and interiors, similar to the Ralph Lauren strategy • Target emerging luxury markets such as Thailand, Singapore (Verdict, 2013b) Threats • Increased labour/ material costs • Increased rents/ cost of retail operations

110 Figure 8.17 Marni Flagship Store, Tokyo, Japan

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9 How will Left of Field Start the Brand?

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9.1

Overview of Research and Resources Available to Start-up Footwear Brands

Appendix 9a Business Connect Signpost

Table 9.1 Overview of Research and Resources available to start-up footwear brands

Approach start-up designers for advice and guidance • See Interview with Nadene Stevenson Appendix 10a • Contact established business people for advice on • Company registration • Accounting • Writing a business plan Talk to a Bank • See Appendix 10b for advice from Natwest • Entrepreneur advisor Nick Howe Access University Support schemes such as • • • • •

LCF First Move Start-up scheme SEED Fund Artsmart Mentorship scheme

Contact Professional Bodies and Associations • British Fashion Council - (NewGen) • Arts Council • National Enterprise Network • OMIS - Overseas Market Introduction Service • EMRS - Export Marketing Research Scheme

• Mentorsme - Business mentoring • Helping Your Business Grow Internationally • British Library Business and Intellectual Property Centre • NESTA: National Endowment for Science, Technolog and the Arts • Department of Trade and Industry • HMRC Trade Organisations and Directories • British Footwear Association Visit Libraries • Access to company database to establish your competition • Demographic information to see whether your planned location is indeed the best location based on the profile of your target customer • COBRA industry sheet of your sector from the library this will give you stats on whether the market is improving or declining • If you local library cannot help then refer to City Business Library in London • http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/ business/economic-research-andinformation/city-business-library/ Pages/default.aspx

Read Newspapers and Trade Magazines • • • •

Out on a limb Footwear News Drapers Footwear Today

Read Market Reports such as • • • •

Mintel Datamonitor Euromonitor These reports will give information on the markets and the competition

Visit Trade Shows such as • • • • • • •

Pure Micam Premiere Classe - Who’s Next Bread and Butter Tanoi Capsule This will help identify our competitors Clarify number and types of buyers attending trade shows • Opportunity to check how brands display stands/products at trade shows Internet • Investigate competitors • Visit competitor stores • Visit e-store

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9.2

Talk to Entrepreneurs - See Interview with Ruby Rock’s Footwear founder Nadene Stevenson - Appendix 9b

Year 1



Function on: Personal Savings, Grant (not guaranteed) Apply for grant www.businesslink.org.uk

for specific grants Spent on: Samples Production Administrative (egTravel costs

Year 2



Function on : Personal savings Loan from a family member, Grant (if eligible) Spent on: Samples Production, Administrative costs, Trade show attendance

Year 3

9.3

Funding the Brand

Chart 9.1 Funding the Brand



Function on: UAL offers a start-up loan via SEE services and Natwest Bank (interest approx. 6%) Or alternatively, approach a financial institution for a loan (usually requires you match the money they loan), Left of Field will need to produce a comprehensive business plan, provide security for the loan. However, if Left of Field provides an order book, we may be able to raise invoice financing. Small monies from sales

Function on: Bank loan,

Spent on: Samples production Trade show attendances, PR agency,

Other funding organisations:

Administrative costs Salary -depending on health of balance sheet

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Year 4

investor Left of Field may approach a private investor/”business angel” for funding in return for an equity stake in the brand. The advantage is the expertise that the “angel”could offer to the brand, however it is important that the brand and investor share the same vision for the brand (British Business Angels Association www. bbaa.org.uk)

Year 5 Arts Council: www.artscouncil.org.uk

loans Growth Loans London: loans to help Londonbased businesses grow Venture Capital Trusts (VCTs): helps small companies raise finance by offering a range of tax reliefs to investors who invest in VCTs who in turn onward invest/lend to small and medium sized businesses



Function on: company profits Left of Field hopes the brand should be trading profitably however small - by year 5 otherwise the viability of the brand would have to be questioned.

Spent on: Samples Collection, trade shows, PR agency, admin costs, wages

Government support: https://www.gov.uk/ business-financesupport-finder

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9.4

Production & Supply Chain

9.4.1 Production and Delivery Schedule: Spring/Summer ‘14

Left of Field will be manufactured in Elda, Spain.

Spain has a tradition of leather craftsmanship. ”Spain is the second-largest footwearproducing and -exporting country in the European Union, after Italy, and the 10th in the world,” said Imanol Martínez, the commercial manager at FICE, the Spanish federation of footwear designers (Gaidatzi, 2007).

Chart 9.2 Production and Delivery Schedule: Spring/Summer ‘14

March ‘13 • Visit Lineapelle Suppliers Show Bologna, Italy • Commence design research, compile moods/colour boards • Plan range structure and pricing architecture • Generate thumbnail sketches • Collect colour-cards, material swatches from leather suppliers • Using 3D printing, print lasts shapes for design development • Book trade shows eg.Premium, Micam April ‘13 • Finalise designs for the core product range

• typical cost of mould generation £3000 v’s typical cost of last :£50/prototype + £25/pair thereafter • Order/develop lasts (size 37) from last maker (lead time - one week) • Order insole boards • 3D print heels to take to heel developer to replicate • Collect adornments, buckles etc. • Start prototyping (use similar material to finished product) May ‘13

• Order leathers/lining (3 - 4 week lead time)

• Finalise designs for mid range and editorial range

• Generate patterns for core product range

• Generate patterns for mid range and editorial range

• Visit suppliers to see new techniques, special finishes, take design inspiration to them and see if possible to replicate design and check if lead time/ cost is feasible

• Start prototyping balance of collection

• Visit heel suppliers, start heel selection (more cost effective to

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use an “off the shelf”heel than pay for mould generation, then have a last produced to fit the “off the shelf heel”

• Amend prototypes for corerange • Ensure leather for samples has been delivered, check leather quality/colour

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• Amend mid-range and editorialrange prototypes

on feedback from trade show

• Start the samples production

• Delivery of samples collection to agents/showroom

• Start preparation for trade show (exhibition stand, promo material)

• Selling season continues at trade shows, via agents/showrooms

• Generate flyers for show/shoe boxes

• Start ordering leathers/ components for round 1 production

• Order shoe boxes/paper • Compile colour cards for show • Generate model detail labels for samples for trade show June ‘13 • Finish samples production • Start second round of samples for agents/showrooms • Selling season commences • Exhibit at trade shows eg.Premium, Micam • Take orders from buyers • Start grading patterns and scaling lasts for production and PR samples (39) • Delivery of A/W 13 collection to stores commences July ‘14 • May add new samples to collection - time permitting

• Continue delivery of A/W 13 collection to stores

October ‘13 • Order components/leathers for round 2 production • Start A/W 14 design development November ‘13 • Production of round 1 collection commences • Order components/leathers for round 3 production

August ‘13 • Selling season continues, attend trade shows • Brand campaign and product shoot for website, catalogues etc. • Note in Spain many suppliers close during the month of August September ‘13 • Commence press samples size (39) • Start ordering leathers/ components for round 1 production • Left of Field cannot afford to order components in one bulk order due to cash flow problems, suppliers usually want payment in 30 - 60 days.

December ‘13 • Complete round 1 production • Commence round 2 production January ‘14 • Distribute round 1 production to stores • Finish round 2 distribution and distribute to stores February ‘14 • Complete production of S/S 14 • Deliver collection to stores

• May amend samples depending

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9.5

Structuring a Range Plan

9.5.3 Left of File Range Plan

See Appendix 9c - Structuring a Range Plan

Diagram 9.1 Left of Field Range Plan

9.5.1 Range Planning Advice

Azria (chief creative officer of BCBG Max ) said “that even over-the-top constructions have their place on certain sales floors, whether they fly off the shelves or not”(Lewis (4) 2013). “I see a lot of interest in novelty shoes…. people might not buy it, but they will walk into the store [because of it](Lewis (4) 2013). They will end up buying a basic, but they have to be wowed first(Lewis (4) 2013). The ‘wow’ shoes are very important, whether or not they sell...it’s so important to get women inspired.”(Lewis (4) 2013)

9.5.2 Costing the Product Range

Left of Field will use a marketbased pricing strategy to determine its selling price. Market-based pricing is “founded on market research to find the optimum selling price” (Easey, 2009, p. 184) which then influences spend on costs such as design, materials and quality (Easey, 2009).

Top Range £250 — £300 3 Styles 1 x Shoe Flat 1 x Pump 70mm 1 x Sandals Midheight

Middle Range £210 — £250 8 Styles 1 x Flat Ankle Boot 2 x Shoe Flat 1 x Open Toe Ankle Boot Midheight 2 x Sandals Midheight

Base Range £170 — £210 6 Styles 2 x Slip on Flats 1 x Shoe Flat 1 x Pump Midheight 2 x Sandals Flat

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9.5.2 Costing the Product Range

Last Production

Left of Field’s Price Range is between £170 - £300 hence average price range per shoe is £235 Buyers will seek a 25 to 300% mark-up on wholesale price (Quille, 2013)

Source: Pau Horma, Elda £25 -£30 per pair Last size for Left of Field size 35 = 1 pair size 36 = 1 pairs size 37 = 3 pairs size 38 = 2 pairs size 39 = 2 pairs size 40 = 1 pair size 41 = 1 pair

Left of Field will need to wholesale the shoe for average £86 to provide a 275% mark-up. Left of Field will seek a 100% mark-up on wholesale to cover operating costs and generate a profit. Hence material and construction costs cannot exceed £43/pair Please note that these materials costs have been sourced during the industry placement year, while all quotes are correct at time of writing it must be noted that these prices are subject to specific sizes, finished etc , hence the prices should be used solely for guidelines purposes. It was noted that most suppliers work on 30 day credit terms. Some suppliers will give a discount if paid within the time frame. (Quille, 2013) Construction Costs Source: Evora Dax Factory, Elda Boot = £17 - £20 Sandal = £14 - £18 Flat shoe = £16 - £18 Pattern production Source : Antonio Patronelles, Elda £50 per pattern Price unavailable for pattern grading Heels Source: Reira, Elda Heels to be covered = £0.80 - £1.50 per pair Special heel made from perspex etc. £3.50/pair Heel covering Source: Forrados Tacosuela, Elda) Stilletto heel £1.50/pair Wedge covering £3.00/per pair

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Buckles £0.10 per piece depending on finish, size, detailing

Total = 11 lasts per range Left of Field collection has 17 styles but can duplicate styles on same last hence collection needs 8 different last models (8 models x 11 = 88 lasts required for the collection) 88 lasts @ £25/pair = £2,200 for last collection £130/style last cost

Materials cost Source: Maspel Curtidos, Elda Leather £2.10 - £3.20 per foot depending on finish Eg. Metallic Leather : £2.75 per foot Lining £.80 per foot (source: Timbrados Rubios, Elda)

Wedge units £1.50 - £2.50 per pair

Insoleboards Source: Idella Planta, Elda £0.50 per pair

Sole units Source: Norma Complementos Para el Calzado, Petrer Full sole unit = £5 Half Sole unit (for knock on heel) = £3

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9.6

How will Left of Field Manage Distribution?

9.7

While Left of Field aspires to run its own retail boutiques, for a brand in its infancy this retail strategy is currently not a viable option. The brand has not sufficient funds for the lease or operation of a business premises nor the capital to fund the stock necessary for retail trading.

9.7.1 Attend Trade Shows

Left of Field will distribute the product using a limited distribution strategy. This strategy will allow a high level of control and selective distribution, however it is a more relaxed approach as compared with exclusive distribution. The brand will be sold in one or more stores, chain of stores, or selective department stores that suit its targeted positioning strategy and image. This allows the brand to retain a high level of control and selective distribution.

9.6.1 Distribution options for Left of Field • Wholesale • Consignment

How to open wholesale accounts?

9.7.2 Approach Buyers Directly

This survey “Buyers Viewpoint of Start-up Footwear Brands” was undertaken to establish buyers attitudes and approach to start-up footwear brands.

Please note only key findings will be discussed here, please see Appendix 9e for full survey results.

See Appendix 9d - Trade Show Advice and the Advantages and Disadvantages of Trade Shows

Respondents: • Faye Bradbury (Buyer > 50 stores Ladies Footwear, River Island) • Helen Povey (Senior Buyer > 50 stores - Ladies Footwear, Schuh) Key Findings of: Why do buyers introduce new brands to their stores? • Pover “bring newness in” • Bradbury “Increasing the product offer/refreshing the product offer is key in retail at the moment”. “We have to keep the ranges dynamic and exciting for the customers” Would buyers be willing to stock a start-up brand?

• Both respondents indicated they are willing to stock a start-up brand. • Bradbury did note the following “a start-up brand is a risk so it would have to be calculated and reviewed in terms of finance and also reliability of delivering what we agreed to buy on time”. What concerns have buyers regards stocking a start-up brand? (eg. unfamiliar brand to customer, no established supply chain, unrealistic price points, poor range planning) • Bradbury: “most of these would be equally considered and important” • Povey “not meeting minimums on styles”

• E-commerce • Agents • Showroom

See Appendix 9d for the Advantages and Disadvantages of each of the following distribution options

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9.8

Conclusion:

While it is possible for new brands to enter the market, it is imperative that their product range is innovative and offers an alternative to their competitors.The brand needs to reassure all buyers that it can deliver the product as first agreed hence an in-depth production schedule is key.

Start-up footwear entrepreneurs cite their challenges in securing stockists:

Chelsea Jones, (Founder of Ciel Bleu) explains that “getting retailers on board ...to buy into a brand in its first season takes a certain kind of retailer”(Schneider-Levy, 2013). She continues “with so many brands coming at them, some want what’s new and others prefer what’s already working” (Schneider-Levy, 2013).

Michelle Summers (of 34 Minutes) believes building relationships with potential buyers is key. “The biggest challenge would be making connections with the right people,” she said. “[Retailers] see so many new brands, and they don’t know [for sure] if they will [stay] around” (SchneiderLevy, 2013).

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10 How does Left of Field Spread the Word?

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Managing the Brand’s Image

10.1.2 Social Media Options • Facebook

Marketing and Public Relations Tools

• Twitter • Tumblr

• Search Engine Optimization: display advertisements, pay per click marketing

• Instragram

• Editorial Exposure - Press Release

• You Tube

• Advertising

Burberry’s ex-CEO Angela Ahrendts stated the importance to her company of targeting the on-line community. “We knew every pound we spent digitally, we could potentially get ten times the reach that we could get physically. All you have to do is look at your own behaviour and how you want to shop. How many times do you go on Google? So what’s our google strategy? What’s our YouTube strategy? What’s our Facebook strategy? Wherever the consumer is going, we have to have a strategy, for every consumer across every one of those devices, platforms and channels” (Business of Fashion, 2013)

Table 10.1 How to Engage with Social Media

WGSN outlines its strategy for how brands should engage with social media to maximise its potential.

• Blogs

“Storytelling is a great way to develop a bond between brands and consumers but just having a story is not enough - a powerful narrative, delivered in the right way and with an understanding of the audience is needed to make it truly engaging

10.1.3 Maximising Social Media Benefits

10.1 On-Line Communication

• Pinterest

• On-line Communication

• Public Relations Agency

10.1.4 How to Engage with Social Media

Perry states that brands “must consider what business needs they wish to fulfill by operating a social media strategy and formulate their social media objectives accordingly (Perry, 2011). Perry continues that “Understanding motivations at the outset is imperative in ensuring that informed decisions are made about which social networking platforms to engage with and that investments are made wisely”(Perry, 2011).

Have something to say authenticity is crucial and the message should be relevant to the consumer around the brand’s purpose Harness the emotional engagement that new technology can provide. Use that technology to deliver the story in a way that aligns and resonates with the way consumers are experiencing the world Immerse the consumer in the story - they expect to engage, push back and become part of the process”

WGSN, 2013

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Table 10.1 Applications of the Main Social Media Platforms

Social media site

Tools

Brand motivator

Facebook

Posting images, videos,

Dealing with customer enquiries and complaints,

comments, links

driving sales, raising product awareness

YouTube

Posting videos and comments

Raising product awareness, driving sales

Blogger

Posting images, videos, and comments

Raising product awareness, driving sales

Twitter

Posting links to websites, images,

Dealing with customer enquiries and complaints,

comments

driving sales, raising product awareness

10.1.5 Appendix 10a Overview of the Advantages and Disadvantages of Each Social Media Platform 10.2 Editorial As Left of Field has limited access to financial resources it will have to adopt innovative methods to garnishing PR and editorial content. David Bell (of Pretty Ballerina’s) notes the importance of “making it easy for the press to use product in product pages”, hence his company designs “products to hit the press calendar” and he presents a “press friendly pack” at the start of each season to increase the likelihood of editorial coverage (Bell, 2013). He also observes the benefits of

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celebrity endorsement to the brand and how this can also serve to secure editorial placement (Bell, 2013). 10.3 Public Relations According the the Business of Fashion “a strong PR strategy can lead to extremely helpful “organic” media exposure and influencer endorsements via celebrity placement, gifting, wardrobing and personal appearances by the designer or brand representative(s)” (Business of Fashion, 2013). However PR agencies can be an expensive option for a start-up brand with some agencies charging between £3000 - £5000 to handle an account (Quille, 2013)

10.4 Advertising Advertising or paid media can be in the form of print, TV, radio and online. However it is expensive but can reach a large audience and can bring prestige to the brand (Business of Fashion, 2013). New magazines may run ads for young designers at very low costs, or sometimes for free, as long as the creative elements are strong and in line with the quality of the rest of the magazine. Online advertising can be more affordable and with specific goals, online advertising can help drive sales, especially to the brands e-commerce site. (Business of Fashion, 2013).

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11 Left of Field Business Strategy

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118 120

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11.1 Left of Field Business Strategy Chart 11.1 Left of Field Business Strategy Year 1



Year 2—4



• Produce two samples collection per year (average 20 styles multiple colourways)

• Left of Field will realistically be continuing to source a reliable source of footwear production.

• Secure a factory for samples production (It can be challenging for an immature brand to secure a factory willing to produce samples without a confirmed order and also in small quantities.

• Left of Field will start to exhibit at trade shows as the brand will have secured the necessary number of stockists required to exhibit at trade shows.

• Also it is imperative to source a factory which understands the brands product and the aesthetic it desires to achieve). • Set up a website (no e-tailing business), social media accounts. • According to Verdict, brands should “invest in digitally marketing your brand to build awareness and connect with consumers, particularly younger shoppers – innovation is key”(Verdict, 2013). • Smaller luxury brands should expand via the online channel to forgo the higher costs involved in terms of logistics and physical stores, and also gauge demand. • Focus on consumer service to ensure a loyal returning • Contact buyers directly to introduce the brand and its collection

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• “While it can take years for young labels to establish themselves and build up brand recognition on both a regional and global basis, it is important that these brands recognise how they can drive consumer awareness and sales”(Verdict, 2013) • Focus on product placement in desirable locations for beneficial brand exposure. Verdict states that “having concessions in the right department stores is vital to attract the right audience, while online stockists and wholesale and license partnerships should be entered into very carefully to ensure the brand is represented correctly” (Verdict, 2013a).

Year 5



• Verdict states “Immature brands should establish themselves as a specialist in one product category first, then diversify into new product categories” (Verdict, 2013a) • Left of Field could create a subbrand to differentiate their offer, extend price architecture, and increase their customer reach and sales potential • This strategy has been undertaken by Brian Atwood. His high end luxury line is his eponymous label while B Brian Atwood is his diffusion line offering lower price points (Atwood, 2013) • Luxury players that do chose to invest internationally online must seek to tailor their website to appeal to local consumers, ensuring that a personal message is conveyed to shoppers and increasing customer loyalty (Verdict, 2013b • Widen your accessories range, with more frequent product cycles to stimulate sales from loyal customers and expand reach to new audiences (Verdict, 2013b).

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11.2 Collaborations Left of Field will use collaborations with designers, creatives and retailers as a method of marketing and promoting the brand. According to Luxury Institute CEO Milton Pedraza “often [collaborators] focus on creating more PR than they do revenue, and that’s legitimate. Good publicity or bad publicity — it’s all publicity” WWD (4) 2013). Nedorostek (Jones Group) cites another benefit for the collaboration model, while “aligning with industry tastemakers [it] allows us to create products inspired by the worlds of music, art...fashion, and tap into a new generation of customers” (WWD (4) 2013). See Appendix 11b for United Nude’s Advice on Collaborations Left of Field could liaise with another creative to produce a mini collection of ten styles, then engage with their community for them to vote on which styles they want to see go into production. The brand could then select a maximum of three styles for production.

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Also run a competition for the brands consumer, allow them to upload their drawings, sketches of what they would like to see in the collection, allow other consumers vote for their favourite and then put that shoe into production, giving financial credit to the creator. Also this method would produce important market research as to what consumers felt was missing in the market offering.

11.2.1 Gift to Bloggers According to Corcoran (2010) “some of the “better-known fashion blogs attract audiences in the hundreds of thousands per month and garner hundreds of comments per post”, hence this platform can offer vast exposure to the brand. Left of Field will identify bloggers with a similar aesthetic to the brand and collaborate (blogger may appear in Left of Field’s photoshoot/ lookbooks) and/or gift to the blogger. While some bloggers “are paid in free merchandise or not at all... a personal style blogger with a large following could receive anywhere from $500 to $4,000 or more to feature a product in her regular content” (Corcoran, 2010).

Figure 11.1 Left of Field‘s“ideal” fashion blogger Susie Lau of Susie Bubble

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11.3 Advice from Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s Definitive Guide on How to Make It in Fashion

“If you’re designing your own label, then know yourself. “Know your ideal client

“If your brand is to have a strong identity, it must come from you “Have a five-year plan, a 10-year plan, even a 20year plan. “Think globally.

“Choose your team carefully.

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“Be thankful to all those who help you on the way up. “Remember that our customers do not need our clothes... we have to create that need by creating desire.

“Remember that we all have it in our power to simply say, “I’m going to bed” Fashionista, 2013

“Try to remain positive. “Believe in what you do “Find a great business partner

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You take every opportunity given to you in this world, even if you have too many opportunities. One day, the opportunities stop, you know.â&#x20AC;? John Irving â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1981

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11.4 Conclusion

And to concludeâ&#x20AC;Ś Has Left of Field delivered a convincing argument for its right to an existence? Does the world need a brand with a singular bold vision delivered through an innovative quality product? Of course it does! The market research undertaken in this proposal illustrates that while todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumer is savvy, informed and demanding, they also appreciate styling and a quality product. Buyers show willingness to stock a new brand, provided the product offering is innovative and sits within their retail ethos. However, this proposal has also outlined the challenges faced by a start-up brand in bringing the product to the market such as; securing finance, sourcing, production, distribution and brand communication. All of these facets are equally demanding as they are important in delivering brand success. To conclude, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footwear market is competitive, challenging and unforgiving, perhaps even more so for a startup brand. However, Left of Field is confident that by employing thorough market research and delivering on its brand promise it can successfully launch and compete in the footwear market.

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* Appendices

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Appendix 1 - - Justification of 3D Technology in Concept Proposal This email correspondence is included to justify the use of 3D technology in the sampling process. The below correspondence outlines the expense and time needed to produce a heel mould. For a start up brand paying £1000 per mould is cost prohibitve especially with no guarantee of sales, hence a more cost efficient strategy would be to 3d print the heel and trial it to buyers. On the back of those results only then proceed with a mold if the production cost can be justified with the potential stock orders. Also Reira note the time taken for heel development in the below email which also escalates the cost. At a talk attended by the author, entrepreneur Linzi Boyd stated how she had set up a fashion sneaker footwear brand and spent £30,000 on developing trainer moulds only to find out they were the incorrect size, hence extreme caution needs to taken with this method as opposed to 3D print where the material cost may be as little as 50p (SEE Talks, 2013) De: "patricia quille" <pquille@hotmail.com> Para: riera@tecnotac.es Enviados: Jueves, 3 de Octubre 2013 19:38:53 Asunto: Fao: Horacio Vicedo Actions patricia quille 03/10/2013 To: riera@tecnotac.es Picture of patricia quille Dear Horacio, My name is Patricia, I met with you regularly in Reira when I was working for Emma Go during the year. I was the girl with no spanish and you took time to explain to me about injection molded heels, you must remember me now!. Please can I ask a favour?, I need some information if it would be possible?. At the moment I return to University in London and start my final year project I would like to have some information about the heel moulds. We spoke previously about the cost of producing a new heel mould. Can I ask what is it that makes the mold so expensive? What material is used for the mold? and is this material expensive? Or is it because the mold shape has to be made by a 3D program? I understand these computer programs can take a long time to make build the mold, so is it the time taken to build the mold that makes it expensive? Any information you can give me I would really appreciate this. Kind Regards Patricia Quille To: pquille@hotmail.com Picture of Horacio Vicedo - Tecnotac S.L.U. -Dear Patricia, I still remember you since you’ve been working with Leonor, you’ll be in Spain once again I hope.

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Appendix 1 - Justification of 3D Technology in Concept Proposal

Regarding your enquire well, it’s because of those reasons you’ve mentioned below, but it’s no really expensive anyway. If you have to make a sole mould you should (multiplex10), around. Therefore, 1.000 € around for a personalized item it’s no expensive in my opinion. Market-customers still prefer to design a heel with my partners in the old way, starting with a prototype made in wood then we make the mould in (Zamac or Aluminium) material by computer, but we usually take a wood item before. This job is also included in our rate price, so it takes several days, sometimes.... There will have been useful for you I hope. Thanks a lot for your interest. Rgds,

Actions From: patricia quille 08/10/2013 To: Horacio Vicedo - Tecnotac S.L.U. Picture of patricia quille Dear Horacio, Many thanks for taking the time to reply to my e-mail, I appreciate you are busy there. Thank you for explaining the mold process to me I will include this information in my university report and credit your company. I plan hopefully to return to Elda one day but in the meantime I must work on learning some spanish!. Many thanks again for your help and information. Patricia

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

A survey was constructed by the barnd as a primary research tool to help the brand understand consumer attitudes and buying decisions. Survey Name: How Do You Shop For Footwear? Total 68 Respondents

number in the Other box = 11.76% (33, 6, 7, 5, 4, 8, 3, 4, 4, 4, 3, 25, 6, 4, 4, 4, 8, 4, 3, 3, 3, 4, 3, 4, 10, 4, 3,) I did not buy any over the last 12 months 0% Question 4 How many pairs of workwear shoes did you buy over the last 12 months?

Survey conducted via www.polldaddy.com Follow link: (http://pquille1.polldaddy.com/s/ how-do-you-shop-for-footwear) for full survey results. This link was posted to Patricia Quille Facebook timeline page and also on LCF Footwear and Accessories Facebook page on 31st October 2013. Question 1 What is your age group? 31 - 35 = 36.76% 20 - 25 = 30.88% >35 = 19.12% 6 - 30 = 13.24% Question 2 How many pairs of occasion* wear shoes did you buy over the last 12 months? I bought 1 to 2 pairs over the last 12 months = 43.37% I bought more than 2 pairs, please reveal the number in the other box = 22.89% Other Option = 18.07% ( Other Answers: 15, 10, 5, 4, 4, 3-4, 4 , 4??5, 8, 4, 4, 4, 3, 5, 8, 20, 5 - an estimate I did not buy any over the last 12 months = 15.66% Question 3 How many pairs of casual/daywear* shoes did you buy over the last 12 months? I bought 1 or 2 pairs over the last 12 months = 39.71% I bought more than 2 pairs, please reveal the

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I bought 1 or 2 pairs over the last 12 months = 44.12% I did not buy any over the last 12 months = 39.71% I bought more than 2 pairs, please reveal in the Other box = 16.17% (8, 10, 3, 1, 5, 3, 6, 5, 6, Question 5 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for an occasion? £100 - £150 = 41% Less than £100 = 34% £150 - £200 = 16% Happy to splash more than £300 = 6% £200 - £300 = 3% Question 6 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for casual/daywear?

Question 8 How challenging is it to shop footwear that satisfies your general lifestyle requirements? Sometimes a challenge sometimes I find what I want straight away = 59% Most of the time when I shop I find what I am looking for = 19% Maybe after the 4th shop I find something or just buy something in desperation = 13% No problem, I could shop til I drop = 4% Mission Impossible, I can never find anything = 4% Question 9 Which of the below categories is the most difficult for you to shop? flats up to 25mm = 39% mid-height up to 70mm = 38% high heel above 70mm = 23% Feedback from Question 9: Gravatar 61,883,977 “alot of the flat shoes seem to cut the backs of heels and also i feel everything on the soles of my feet when walking as I have problems with my arches”. Gravatar 61,826,514 “Wide foot. Large size”.

Less than £100 = 49% £100 - £150 = 29% £150 - £200 = 19% Happy to splash more than £300 = 1% £200 - £300 = 1%

Gravatar 61,820,463 “This is now my preferred height for occasion shoes I can no longer handle higher heels as i spend 99% of my time in flats These days my shoe purchases are driven by comfort” .

Question 7 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for workwear?

Gravatar 61,347,195 “I have wide feet and its not too difficult to find work shoes as they’re normally quite plain. However, it’s often very difficult/tim consuming to find a stylish pair of mid height heels for wide feet for going out”.

Less than £100 = 68% £100 - £150 = 22% £150 - £200 = 7% Happy to splash more than £300 1% £200 - £300 = 1%

Gravatar 61,227,273 “I take a size 8 shoe, however I find when shopping for a neat dressy Saturday night or Wedding shoe its hard to find one and its normally last minute!. A lot of the time an 8 actually dosent fit well, either to narrow or even not fit at all which can

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

be very frustrating“. Gravatar 61,201,052 “Difficult to find thicker mid-height heels”. Gravatar 61,198,954 “They [heels. 70mm] are never stylish or comfortable enough Gravatar 61,187,189 “If I were to wear any form of high heels for a long period of time, my foot will swell up. Also I have been accustomed to wearing flats”. Gravatar 61,180,783 “a lack of nice dressy flat s for women out there that arent a ballet pump or a converse sneaker. some stores have brogues but a lot of stores go for boots or sandals for the falt option and the just arent enough shoe options! would like more variations on flats. oxfords derbys loafers etc please!” Gravatar 61,178,778 “I like a fancy pair of shoes but very few have small heels :(“ Gravatar 61,178,168 “Hard to find good quality stylish flats” Gravatar 61,175,348 “Hard to find heels which can be worn all day”. Gravatar 61,157,238 “Until this season it was ballet pumps or 6inch heels and I’m a boots type girl but I still like a bit of heel. Gravatar 61,155,361 2when I shop highheel it is the time when I spend bigger money on it than all other shoes. It makes me to be more careful of decision”.

uncomfortable or difficult to walk in. Also try to find heels that look fab but won’t be destroyed if I step in a puddle (i.e. hard to keep clean or keep fabric in good nic”) Gravatar 61,067,963 “high heels uncomfortable to wear”.

comfortable but in my case, it doens’t looke good for my look. That’s the biggest reason that it is difficult to shop”’

Gravatarn 61,045,216 “It sometimes look quite the same for all flat shoes”.

Gravatar 60,981,732 “Never really difficult to find something i like”.

Gravatar 61,041,902 “I use public transport and walk a lot; I often socialise straight after work, or straight after being with the kids... so mid height is best”

Gravatar 60,980,796 “Usually being a bit petite, I find it hard to find shoes that have just a little heel, about 2 inches tops. Normally its either high or too low and flat, difficult to find somewhere in the middle and a style that looks great too”.

Gravatar 61,040,437 “Being a short person at 5’2’’, I always feel like any pair of flats makes me shorter, which makes this type of footwear the hardest for me”.

Gravatar 60,978,494 “Comfort and style and quality are rarely combined”.

Gravatar 61,033,388 “mid-height Limited styles, can lack stylishness, can be drab”.

Gravatar 60,975,052 ”i am quite tall, heels make me too tall”

Gravatar 61,029,022 “[mid-heel] need the right shape heel”.

Gravatar 60,972,183 “Shoes mid- height are usually not really appealing. The foot doesnt look as great as in a high heel or a flat. That said its the most bought one by customers as its more wearable than high heels”

Gravatar 61,026,349 “Flats: Interior not good quality fabric and very flat or uncomfortable. Always too narrow on toe area”. Gravatar 61,023,710 “All of them. Especially sandals because of my tiny UK2.5 feet.” Gravatar 61,023,435 “If elegant, they are uncomfortable. If comfortable, they look horrible.

Gravatar 61,154,534 “I can find simple flat shoes and flat boots and high-heeled shoes, but mid-height is always difficult to find, being tall I find it even harder as I want a mid-height that looks good for going out. I also wear midheight for day shoes, which is easy for me to find in boots but not in pumps”.

Gravatar 61,020,304 “Flats: Limited styles” Gravatar 61,007,953 “A lot of the high heel shoes are designed for teenagers or very fashion conscious individuals. Eg: massive chunky platforms (Essex style shoes) I find I have to go to high end high street shops (like Nine West, Ted Baker) to find something fashionable that I like and can wear!! Makes me feel old :(

Gravatar 61,075,155 “Generally high heels as

Gravatar 60,985,948 “mid heel is usually really

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Gravatar 60,983,346 “It’s easy to find all of them

Question 10 Would you buy footwear from a brand unfamiliar to you? Yes = 92.65% No = 7.35% Please help us understand why you selected this answer Gravatar 61,826,514 :”As long as the shoes fit, and I like the style, I will buy the shoes” Gravatar 61,347,195 “I’m open to different brands as long as the quality is good, style is right and comfortable to wear”

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

Gravatar 61,257,134 “I would, if I really like the design and the fit and if the branding catches my attention” Gravatar 61,231,929 “I am not really brand loyal. I tend to buy what I like regardless of who made them” Gravatar 61,227,312 “I buy what I like” Gravatar 61,227,273 “Brand dosen’t bother me”! Gravatar 61,198,954 “if its an up and coming brand that is super cool , i dont mind if i dont know it” Gravatar 61,198,907 “If I knew that the quality was good, and liked the materials used then I would have no problem buying shoes from an unfamiliar brand. I would probably look them up first before I bought them though”

inclined to buy an expensive brand I wasn’t familiar with because I would think that the price indicated it was decent but I would be reluctant enough to buy a cheap pair of shoes if I didn’t recognise the brand as I wouldn’t have much faith”

Gravatar 61,020,304 “If I like shoe brand not important. I’m more about quality generally prefer leather” Gravatar 61,017,898 “Price & style influence my choice”

Gravatar 61,067,963 “I have a wide foot and now know which Brands suit me and my work/ lifestyle”

Gravatar 61,007,953 “Depending on the price I would like to read some reviews first (eg on amazon )”

Gravatar 61,045,216 “Why not? I just need them to be pretty and comfortable”

Gravatar 60,993,953 “Design is more important than the others”!!

Gravatar 61,041,902 “I have been disappointed by ECCO shoes in the past year or so; and I have been happy with lesser known brands, occasionally from TK MAXX”

Gravatar 60,985,948 “style is the most important thing for me”.

Gravatar 61,040,437 “I like taking a risk with brands at times and if I don’t try new ones, how could I ever find out whether they suit me or not”?

Gravatar 60,981,732 “As long as i like how it looks and its comfy, why not”? Gravatar 60,980,796 “If the quality, design, cut and style is great, brand doesn’t matter”

Gravatar 61,187,189 “If the workmanship is good or has an interesting element, I will buy any brand”

Gravatar 61,035,572 “I don’t care about brands, if I like the look, fit, quality and price I buy it”

Gravatar 60,978,494 “As long as they satisfy my, quality, style and comfort standards, I would by from any brand.

Gravatar 61,180,783 “it s what they look like that counts”!

Gravatar 61,033,552 “If the shoe fits and feels good, then why not?”

Gravatar 60,975,052 “i like to explore new product and new labels

Gravatar 61,157,238 “If I like the look and feel of it I don’t mind what brand”

Gravatar 61,033,388 “If the shoe was made of quality materials, suited the purpose for which I needed them and complimented my outfit”

Gravatar 60,972,183 “If the design is great and the quality is good I buy it.

Gravatar 61,155,361 “I look at the designs and the quality.” Gravatar 61,154,534 “I pick shoes by what I like and how they fit, brand doesn’t really matter to me” Gravatar 61,152,868 “I tend to look at the brands I trust then if I don’t find what I’m looking for I will try something new” Gravatar 61,095,710 “As long as they feel good” Gravatar 61,075,155 “Yes on occasion but this would depend on the shop. I would be more

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Gravatar 61,033,177 “If the quality is good then whether or not I recognise the brand wouldn’t bother me” Gravatar 61,029,022 “if the style is right, the name doesnt matter” Gravatar 61,023,710 “If i like them I’m not concerned about what the brand is” Gravatar 61,023,435 “As long as it fits”! Gravatar 60,970,476 “The Quality, Comfort and Design is priority. The Label is not at all important”

Question 11 Which, if any of the following do you use to shop your footwear requirements? Footwear Specialist Retailers eg. Schuh, Office = 30.25% Department stores = 27.78% Independent Footwear Retailers = 24.69% Internet = 9.88% Supermarkets eg. Tesco, Asda, Marks & Spencers = 5.56% Other Option 1.85% (A mixture if all the above, Vintage, High Street, Penny’s) Question 12 Have you ever bought footwear on-line

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

No because I am afraid of fitting problems with the shoe = 30% No because I like to examine the quality of the shoe = 20% Yes because it is convenient = 16.36% Yes because there is a bigger choice on-line = 13.64% Yes because I can buy the same shoe at a cheaper price point than on the high street = 10.91% No because too time consuming/costly returning goods to e-shop = 6.36%

Gravatar 61,187,189 “Usually I have an issue with fit on the width of the shoes but of course if I’ve tried the shoes before hand, I would be willing to get it online at a cheaper price

No because I need the shoes ASAP I cannot wait 3 -5 days = 1.82% None of the above please explain in user comments box = 0.91%

Gravatar 61,075,155 “I have bought clothes online but never shoes because I feel I need to try them on first. Shoes can be to narrow/wide/ high or pinch toes or ankles and I would have to walk around in them before I purchased.

Please help us understand why you selected this answer Gravatar 61,883,977 “size is a problem as I find in some shoes I can be a 4 or a 5”. Gravatar 61,826,514 “I tell to buy the largest size to ensure they fit” Gravatar 61,820,463 “Will only buy shoes online if I know the size and style I want because I’ve already got a pair and want a replacement or another colour” Gravatar “61,347,195” I don’t have that much spare time to go out shopping so I find it a lot easier to shop online at night and order a rfew styles in 2 different sizes (normally size 5 and 6) and then send back the unwanted ones. Gravatar 61,227,273 ”Im an 8 but however depending on the shoe a size 8 doesn’t always fit”. Gravatar 61,198,907 “I love online shopping I find it easy and convenient as I am very busy so rarely get to go our shopping in actual stores. I also find there is sometimes things that are exclusive to online, and obviously places like ASOS, BooHoo are specifically only online retailers.

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Gravatar 61,157,238 “My occasion shoes are bought online, due to them being foreign brands. Gravatar 61,095,710 “Only when I have tried on in the shop or had to order my size & I can take them back easily

Gravatar 61,067,963 “I prefer to have the personal service and be sure that the footwear is comfortable and suitable for me”

however these tend to be from ebay or etsy and are in a low price bracket (£20 - £60). Gravatar 60,975,052 “working takes up most of my time therefore i buy online” Gravatar 60,972,183 “I like to see the leather and get a feel for the shoe. Again comfort is very important for me” Question 13 Is the country of origin of the product a factor in your buying decision? No, I would check where it is from but not a factor in buying decision: 39.39% No, I couldn’t care less where it comes from: 37.88% Other Option: 13.64% Yes I will only buy if from a certain country/ countries : 9.09% avatar

Gravatar 61,045,216 “No. Because u don’t know how exactly look like on the feet and don’t know if comfortable, esp important for high heels”

Gravatar 61,820,463 “Never considered this

Gravatar 61,041,902 “I have recently seen boots I liked, worn by a neighbour; she recommended www.shoehorn.ie; I’m happy to try it. The choice does seem better, and also when customer service is recommended I’m happy to go with the option” Gravatar 61,035,572 “I did try getting shoes online but it has pros and cons, prefer to buy in a shop”

Gravatar 61,045,216 “i prefer to buy good one esp for high heels. because high heels need to be in high quality for comfortable

Gravatar 61,033,388 “I have a wide foot and need to fit on shoes prior to purchase” Gravatar 60,993,953 “It’s biggest market!! Gravatar 60,978,494 “If i am not familiar with the brand or shoe I will usually try to look at it in store if I can find it. I prefer to buy online if there is a free returns policy. I do still buy shoes online if there is no returns policy

Gravatar 61,198,954 “totally depends on the appearance of quality

Gravatar 60,981,732 “Some countries which are famous in shoe making would be preferred Gravatar 60,978,494 “I like to know where the shoes are made rather than not knowing at all. However the country of origin will not pursued or deter a prospective purchase. Gravatar 60,975,858 “Shoes made in china is a concern both according to quality and product honesty” Gravatar 60,975,052 “quality is important Gravatar 60,970,476 “But I prefer shoes from Europe.

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

Question 14 How important is price when buying a shoe?

Gravatar 61,154,534 “I almost always end up spending more money on shoes than I plan to”!

I have a general idea of how much I want to spend but allow flexibility (maximum 30% more of budget) if the product is right = 56.72% It depends on function eg. I will pay more for quality workwear than occasion shoes = 17.91% Very important, I will set myself a budget and stick to this irregardless of what I find = 13.43% Not a consideration, if I really like them I would buy them anyway = 10.45% None of the above = 1.49%

Gravatar 61,067,963 “My feet carry me around so I respect their job and help by having well made good fitting shoes/sandals/boots”

Please help us understand why you selected this answer Gravatar 61,820,463 “Price is important but I would think about the price when I see the shoe rather than have a planned budget. You are right I should spend more on workwear but I usually buy cheap shoes. For work and winge when they get smelly” Gravatar 61,347,195 “I would generally spend between £40-£60 for occasion shoes, £60-£90 for a comfortable pair of good quality mid heel work shoes, and shoes that I wear all the time (like ballet pumps) I’d spend over £100.” Gravatar 61,198,954 ”if i really love something...which is rare, i will find a way to buy it, as long as it’s not crazy expensive” Gravatar 61,198,907 “If I know they are worth a high price then I will pay that, granted that I know they will last me a while and also that I will get some good wear out of them” Gravatar 61,157,238 “I like being able to afford to eat (and drink wine) and cant spend silly money on shoes all the time. Only sometimes”!

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Gravatar 61,041,902 “I’m very hard on shoes... it’s important that I don’t spend too much on shoes that might look decorative but aren’t durable” Gravatar 61,040,437 “I’m a student who can’t afford to splurge very often and shoes are not, unfortunately, a priority at the moment. Thus, if I need a pair of shoes, I do stick to the budge regardless of whether I find a nicer pair or not.” Gravatar 61,033,388 “If I find shoes that are suitable, good quality and comfortable I would be prepared to spend over my budget” Gravatar 60,978,494 “Price is always a refection of quality and style regardless of occasion” Gravatar 60,972,183 “If I fall in love with a shoe I most likely buy it- if I can effort it” Question 15 How important is comfort when purchasing footwear? Very important, if not comfortable no matter how much I love them I will not buy = 52.94% Important but if I really liked the styling I could forego the comfort factor = 30.88% Neutral - depends on what activity I am buying them for = 16.18% Not very important, style over comfort everytime = 0% Please help us understand why you selected this answer

Gravatar 61,347,195 “Depends on what its for. For work and day shoes comfort is top priority. With occasion shoes I would forego the comfort factor (to a certain extent) for the style”. Gravatar 61,227,273 “I’ve had too many nights out of pain and aches and standing on my feet all day being comfortable is so important> Iv recently found really ugly Clogs for work but as I get older I don’t seem to care about how they look as long as their comfy” Gravatar 61,198,954 “the more stylish, the less i care about comfort fit. depends on what im buying for” Gravatar 61,198,907 “I do have some shoes which are the comfiest, I probably still would buy shoes if I liked them and they were uncomfortable but they would have to be a low price” Gravatar 61,157,238 “I walk everywhere, day and night. No one has time for blisters” Gravatar 61,154,534 “Flat shoes I will not wear uncomfortable shoes, but a beautiful pair of heels I will suffer forever for” Gravatar 61,075,155 “Workwear and daytime shoes have to be comfortable, need to be feet all day in them and be able to drive in them. With occasion wear because it is OCCASIONAL it is much easier to forego the comfort factor”. Gravatar 61,067,963 “I am a nurse and have spent many hours on my feet. I walk and trek, so supportive, comfortable gear is all important” Gravatar 61,040,437 “Very seldom do I forego the comfort factor, but I do it on occasion when a pair of heels is really gorgeous and I’m obsessed with it” Gravatar 61,033,388 “Comfort is very important as it allows me to feel confident that I can spend the time doing what I need without be

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Appendix 6a

Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear”

distracted by my feet” Gravatar 61,026,349 “There is no point having shoes your dread putting your foot into, no matter how good they look” Gravatar 61,007,953 “Comfort is more important in everyday shoes than in occasion shoes” Gravatar 60,978,494 “I am happy to break shoes in, but if I cannot see this happening, no matter how much I love them I will not buy them” Gravatar 60,975,052 “working long hours in the office needs style and comfort”

Gravatar 60,972,183 “There is not much more to say about this” ;-) Question 16 How important is quality when purchasing footwear? Important, but not the most important issue = 41.18% Very important, I scrutinize the shoe, must be a quality product otherwise I will not buy = 33.82% Not a major issue, once the shoe looks good I don’t really care = 10.29% Important but I am not willingly to pay a premium price for this = 8.82%

Depends on the function eg I want quality workwear, I’m not too bothered for occasion wear = 5.88% Please help us understand why you selected this answer Gravatar 61,198,954 “higher the price the more i demand high quality” Gravatar 61,198,907 “I want the shoe to be

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good quality and last me a while” Gravatar 61,157,238 “I’m not paying good money for a fake leather and plastic shoe thats going to fall apart after 4 wears” Gravatar 61,154,534 “Depends on how much I’ve spent on them - for a very simple pair of flats that I wear 3 times I really don’t care, but everything else has to be good quality” Gravatar 61,067,963 “Quality will last and give value for money” Gravatar 61,041,902 “..because I’m very hard on footwear.”.!

Gravatar 61,347,195 “i like it as its different but I wouldnt immediately think its related to shoes” Gravatar 61,201,052 “depends for which type of shoes. sounds as it would be casual/ sportswear.” Gravatar 61,180,783 “like it, but would need to know the brand ethos a bit to tell you proper answer. confused by mening but i dont think tat really matters. i have know idea what ‘surface to air’ means but i still like the name for the brand”

Gravatar 61,040,437 “Once again, as a student who’s on a budget, quality can sometimes take last place when compared to price or style”

Gravatar 61,043,807 “It’s different but not sure it suits shoes , more sports wear”?

Gravatar 61,033,388 “Quality is important but I like to stay within or close to my budget as there are other things I need to use my money for”

Gravatar 61,033,177 “Hippyish or alternative”!

Gravatar 60,993,953 “Quality says everything (brand value, design, price....)”

Gravatar 61,023,710 “Sports wear”

Gravatar 61,035,572 “not very easy to say”

Gravatar 61,026,349 “It’s is not a brand I would associate with footwear”

Gravatar 61,017,898 “No opinion” Gravatar 60,972,183 “I usually fall in love with high heels therefore the quality needs to be great. I buy usually cheap flats but all my high heels are branded”

Gravatar 60,983,346 “It’s just a name, it doesn’t make me think anything”

Question 18 If you heard the brand name “Left of Field” what would you think? I don’t understand its meaning! = 39% I like it, it’s different = 30% Other Option = 20% Is this something to do with football? = 7% I don’t like it, it’s ridiculous!! = 4% Comments Gravatar 61,820,463 “It has something to do with football but that’s ok”!

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Appendix 6a Primary Research: Consumer Analysis Survey “How do you shop for Footwear” Gravatar 61,827,551 “no, i dont like wearing an ankle strap” Gravatar 61,820,463 “I would admire them on someone else but they look uncormfortable and too expensive to wear once”

Question 19 Would you wear these shoes? (Reed Krakoff; www.net-a-porter.com) No not my style = 45.59% Yes because I like their styling = 32.35% Other Option = 13.24% Yes because they are unique = 7.35% No because they are too difficult to style = 1.47% No they are too masculine = 0% Gravatar 61,883,977 “do not like the heel”

Question 20 Would you wear these shoes? (Nicholas Kirkwood, www.netaporter.com) No not my style = 59.7% Yes because they are unique = 16.42% No, statement shoes are not my thing = 10.45% No because they are too difficult to style = 5.97% Yes because I like their styling = 5.97% Other Option = 1.49%

Gravatar 61,201,052 “but they are really beautiful” Gravatar 61,035,572 “yes, love them”

Gravatar 61,005,129 “Probably more of a work shoe” Gravatar 60,993,953 “Yes I like it:) It looks comfortable and simple. I think it is good for match with my clothes:)” Gravatar 60,985,948 “give it a try maybe” Gravatar 60,980,796 “I wouldn’t mind, personally like the style but never wore something like it”

Question 21 Would you wear these shoes? (Sophia Webster @ www.net-a-porter.com) No not my style = 50% Yes because I like their styling = 19.12% No too quirky = 10.29% Yes because they are unique = 10.29% Other Option = 8.82% No because they are too difficult to style = 1.47% Gravatar 61,883,977 “look too uncomfortable”

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Gravatar 61,154,534 “I don’t like the heel” Gravatar 61,067,963 “Cannot imagine myself being able to walk in them”

Gravatar 61,187,189 “I would wear them if someone gave them to me, otherwise I would not spend any amount on it.”

Gravatar 61,820,463 “No because I don’t. Think I have anything to. Wear with them”

Gravatar 61,033,177 “Don’t like the heel”

Gravatar 61,201,052 “don’t like this high heels hight”

Question 22 Would you wear these shoes? (Marni) No not my style = 39.71% Yes because I like their styling = 22.06% Yes because they are unique = 17.65% No too over the top = 16.18% Other Option = 2.94% No because they are too difficult to style = 1.47% Comments: Gravatar 61,820,463 “Too high” Gravatar 61,187,189 “No, too high for me but I would wear them if the height was lower”

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Appendix 6b Primary Research: Individual Participant Survey “How do you shop for Footwear” Individual Participant Gravatar Location United Kingdom Unknown Response ID 61,157,238 IP Address 86.163.13.128 Start Time 2nd Nov 2013 8:30 AM Question 1 What is your age group? ✓ 20 - 25 Question 2 How many pairs of occasion* wear shoes did you buy over the last 12 months? ✓ I bought 1 to 2 pairs over the last 12 months ! Question3 How many pairs of casual/daywear* shoes did you buy over the last 12 months? I bought more than 2 pairs, please reveal in the Other box ✓ Other: Probably about 8 Question 4 How many pairs of workwear shoes did you buy over the last 12 months? ✓ I bought 1 or 2 pairs over the last 12 months Question 5 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for an occasion? ✓ £100 - £150

Question 7 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for workwear? Less than £100 Question 8 How challenging is it to shop footwear that satisfies your general lifestyle requirements? Maybe after the 4th shop I find something or just buy something in desperation Question 9 Which of the below categories is the most difficult for you to shop? flats up to 25mm mid-height up to 70mm Comment: Until this season it was ballet pumps or 6inch heels and I’m a boots type girl but I still like a bit of heel. Question 10 Would you buy footwear from a brand unfamiliar to you? Yes Comment: If I like the look and feel of it I don’t mind what brand. Question 11 Which, if any of the following do you use to shop your footwear requirements? Department stores ✓Footwear Specialist Retailers eg. Schuh, Office ✓Independent Footwear Retailers ✓Supermarkets eg. Tesco, Asda, Marks & Spencers ✓Internet Have you ever bought footwear on-line Yes because there is a bigger choice on-line ✓ Yes because I can buy the same shoe at a cheaper price point than on the high street Comment: My occasion shoes are bought online, due to them being foreign brands.

Question 6 What is the maximum amount you would spend on shoes for casual/daywear? ✓ Less than £100

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Appendix 6b Primary Research: Individual Participant Survey “How do you shop for Footwear” Question 13 Is the country of origin of the product a factor in your buying decision? No, I couldn’t care less where it comes from Question 14 How important is price when buying a shoe? I have a general idea of how much I want to spend but allow flexibility (maximum 30% more of budget) if the product is right Comment: I like being able to afford to eat (and drink wine) and cant spend silly money on shoes all the time. Only sometimes Question 15 How important is comfort when purchasing footwear? Very important, if not comfortable no matter how much I love them I will not buy Comment: I walk everywhere, day and night. No one has time for blisters. Question 16 How important is quality when purchasing footwear? Very important, I scrutinize the shoe, must be a quality product otherwise I will not buy Comment: I’m not paying good money for a fake leather and plastic shoe thats going to fall apart after 4 wears. Question 17 Rank in order of priority how important the following factors are to you in the Other box 1 - Country of origin 2 - Quality materials used eg. leather sole, leather upper 3 - Styling 4 - Comfort 5 - Brand 6 - Price ✓ Other: 3,4,6 Question 18 If you heard the brand name “Left of Field” what would you think? Is this something to do with football?

Question 19 Would you wear these shoes? No not my style

Question 20 Would you wear these shoes? Yes because they are unique

Question 21 Would you wear these shoes? Yes because I like their styling

Question 22 Would you wear these shoes? Yes because I like their styling Finish Time

2nd Nov 2013 8:46 AM

Print Note this response « 43 of 68 »

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Appendix 8a Competitor Analysis Interview: United Nude Interview with Maria at United Nude, 13 Floral Street, London, (Interview conducted on 15th November 2013)

I = What are the most popular styles? M = The folded styles, the Eamz pump and the Lo Res styles are the best sellers.

Prior to the start of the interview, the interviewer explained their background of study at LCF, reason for the visit and requested if the store assistant would be willing to answer questions regarding the brand. Please note this is an edited version of key points covered during the interview.

I= How does the stock drop work? do you get new pieces every few weeks or you are allocated only a limited number of styles? M = At the start of every season, we will get the entire collection, every colourway every style and then we will get stock replenished throughout the season.

I = Interviewer M = Maria

I = How does it work with limited edition pieces such as Zaha Hadid’s Nova shoe? M = Will this only 100 pieces were made, so each store got a single pack with one pair per size (35 - 41). I = Have they sold? M = Yes we have sold 5 since October.

I = Who is the typical United Nude consumer M = She is a fashion conscious lady of middle to high social economic background mainly between 25 - 45 years but also we have customers between 16 to 80 years. I = How many pairs usually do customers buy per transaction? M = It depends sometimes one, sometimes three, I would say 1.5 per transaction. I = What is the maximum amount you have sold per transaction? M = One lady spent £2000. I = What? £2000 - did she buy the Zaha Hadid style? M = No she picked up maybe 8 - 9 pairs of shoes, yes no problem.

I = Who would you say is the United Nude competitor? M= It is hard to say really, because we are have such a strong aesthetic but maybe some of Kurt Geiger - the higher end line and maybe Y3 I = How long has this store been here? M= It is here over 3 years and we have 3 stores in England, all in London. I= Thank you for your time M = You are welcome

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Appendix 8b United Nude consumer Felicitas Stern Facebook page (Accessed : 25th October 2013

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Appendix 8c United Nude Retail Store Concept Koolhaas on United Nude’s Retail Concept: “The shopping experience was very important, but it also had to be memorable. I knew [the United Nude stores] had to be extreme but simple, so I turned the shop into a cross between a theater and a gallery. It’s a dark space where the shoes in the main display are presented like little works of art in their own frames. Lights [illuminate] the product and nothing else. At our store in Amsterdam, which is on a busy corner, people just stand there at night and look. The light moves and changes colors and they are wowed by it.” (Lewis, 2012) Koolhaas expands on the success of the popup store concept for the brand: “The pop-up shops are great for us. The process for opening them is a lot faster and more energetic than for traditional shops, [and it] suits our style. It allows us to test new locations and sometimes a pop-up turns into a more permanent store due to its success”(Lewis, 2012).

Appendix 8d Robert Clergerie consumer Julia Frakes Facebook page (Accessed : 4th Novemeber 2013

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Appendix 8e Competitor Analysis Interview: Robert Clergerie Interview with David at Robert Clergerie, 67 Wigmore St, London. Prior to the start of the interview, the interviewer explained their background of study at LCF, reason for the visit and requested if the store manager would be willing to answer questions regards the brand. Please note this is an edited version of key points covered during the interview. I = Interviewer D = David I = Can I please ask why there is a buzzer on the door for admittance? D = Well we have been in this premises from 1989 and that was how the door was, we have never changed it, also it adds to the exclusive factor. I = Who is the Robert Clergerie Consumer? D = Because of our location here, we have professional working class ladies from doctors, lawyers, many chinese and of course tourists, many tourists and students. I = Students? You see alot of students? D = Yes, ok they might come with their mothers or some maybe they save for 4 months but yes we get alot of students here. I = What is the average number of pairs a woman would purchase? D = Usually we would sell 2-3 pairs per season per customer however I did once have a lady who bought 16 pairs! I = How does stock work? Do you constantly add new styles every few weeks or the collection stays the same? D = How it works is we have the catwalk in France twice a year, so you go and select what styles you want for the store with the agreement of the regional manager for your store. You then select maybe 90 styles out of 300 possible styles. Then you choose colourways and materials for your store. Usually we will always get delivery of the black and brown colours first and then other colours arrive at a later date, because they are hand made this takes time. So once we have the collection it stays the same for the season maybe a new colourway in a style we have chosen, in a few weeks we will start to display the summer stock so we will maybe display a quarter summer stock and the rest our winter stock increasing the summer stock gradually. I = What styles are the most popular, are women looking for flats, mid-height? D = It depends, we have ladies who are trend led so they are looking for what is current, we have ladies who always want a wedge for comfort and we have so many tourists where it is warm in their country so even in December they are looking for sandals. There is no one style, each lady wants something different, so we try to have a balanced collection. I = Thank you so much, you have been very helpful. D = No problem, you are welcome, here have one of our lookbooks. I = Many thanks, goodbye.

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Appendix 9a

Business Connect Sign Post (Provided by Nick Howe NatWest Financial Advisor/SEE @ UAL) Business Connect SignPost Internal Bank produced links that could assist and help you get off to a better start. Cashflow Forecasts how to complete them and FREE template building your own cashflow forecast including a free template you can use How should I trade ? Sole Trader, Partnership, Limited Company ? find out more here about the various entities you could choose to trade under http://www.natwest.com/business/businessschool.ashx link to free guides from NatWest including free business plan template and webinars on the topics of the moment Suggestions of ways to handle financial problems as soon as they become apparent tackle issues early to stand the best possible chance of finding a solution http://www.bizcrowd.com/postnow Bizcrowd is a FREE online business community that you can join to meet with other businesses who you may be able to buy or supply your services to http://www.business.natwest.com/afb/ public/nwb/AFBRoot/mainhome/startups/ cardsandpayments how will your customers want to pay for your goods or services Business Planning vital to work ON your business as well as In it – Business Plans are votal to chart what is changing within your business at regular intervals Business Planning Online course take your time to complete your business plan at a pace

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to suit you with this free online course Cashflow support when involving international trade there may be lots of timings involved so vital that this tool http://www.nw-businesssense.com/topics-andbriefings/essential_recruitment_guide_2012. html the essential guide to recruitment today http://www.nw-businesssense.com/topics-andbriefings/planning_business_succession.html how to plan for your succession http://support.natwest.com/business-toolsresources/online-business-review An easy to use management tool which allows you to assess the health of your business by answering questions on the following six key areas: • Developing strategy and leadership for your business • Managing your cash flow • Managing your customers • Managing risk • Understanding your finances • Working with suppliers. External Links of Business Support General https://www.gov.uk/browse/business website provided by Government – the place to head to to ensure that what you are reading is fact and not opinion Did you know that the Business Link Helpline is still available to those looking to start a business for the very first time, new start-ups and existing businesses who wish to improve and grow their operations? Call the Helpline on 0845 600 9006 (9.00am - 6.00pm Monday - Friday). And, you can use the new Business Events Finder to search for business related training, workshops, networking events and seminars.

TAX HMRC run free webinars on setting your tax returns up correctly before you start as well as getting your tax papers correct when taking on an employee for the first time – more details http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/bst/adviceteams-area/london.htm TAX http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/calcs/esi.htm The Employment Status Indicator (ESI) tool enables you to check the employment status of an individual or group of workers - that is, whether they are employed or self-employed for tax, National Insurance contributions (NICs) or VAT purposes. Limited Company Info www.companieshouse. gov.uk all the various limited company information and guidance including how to set your own company up from as little as £40 Protecting your Ideas www.ipo.gov.uk patents, trademarks, copyright and designs all explained and how to protect your own interests (see attached sheet) Health & Safety http://www.hse.gov.uk/ index.htm Health and Safety guidance and framework Bad debt ? www.registry-trust.org.uk to check if a customer has any county court judgements awarded against them in England and Wales for non-payment of a debt Bad debt ? www.insolvency.gov.uk for steps to take if you are owed money by an insolvent company http://sogahub.tradingstandards.gov.uk/ The Sale of Goods Act (SOGA) hub provides comprehensive and up to date guidance on the Sale of Goods Act for retailers and business support organisations. The Distance Selling (DS) hub provides guidance for retailers and business support organisations on regulations that affect buying and selling goods and services via the internet,

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Appendix 9a Business Connect Sign Post phone, mail order, email, interactive TV or text http://dshub.tradingstandards.gov.uk/ Play music in your place of work ? If you do have ‘copyrighted’ music in your shop then you need a PRS license to ensure you are legally complaint Marketing Generate QR codes online at no cost http://www.qrstuff.com/ Networking / Organising your event www. meetup.com & www.eventbrite.com sometimes free networking events in your local area and also give you the tools to organise an event and have your Appendix 9a Business Connect Sign Post (Provided by Nick Howe NatWest Financial Advisor/ SEE @UAL guest systems all set up Marketing www.Studentsdesigns.com gives students a competition to design new logo etc for your

from the library this will give you stats on whether the whole market is improving or declining and what conditions you would have to meet for your chosen business Your local Council deals with the following Planning consents Business Rates Food safety standards/certificates Trading hours restrictions Trading standards questions Pop Up Shops Local grant / loan funds Social Enterprise your thing ???? Society Media http://www.societymedia.co.uk/society-mediawork SM produce a monthly magazine called ‘Social Enterprise’ which is the most widely read sector publication. They have a very strong reputation externally in the sector and work closely with all of the other Intermediaries in the sector including the Government.

business at very little expense and you choose the design that best suits you

Association of Chief Executives of Voluntary

Market Research http://www.surveymonkey. com/mp/use-cases/market-research-feedback free basic market research tool facility with option to pay tp upgrade to more comprehensive versions

Organisations http://www.acevo.org.uk/

Market Research – ask your local library whether they can give you access to valuable information such as company database to see who you competition is or who you may wish to approach for business – also demographic information to see whether your planned location is indeed the best location based on the make up of your target customer – lastly ask for a COBRA industry sheet of your sector

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ACEVO is the main Intermediary representing the Chief Executives of Voluntary Organisations in England & Wales. Association of Chief Officers of Scottish Voluntary Organisations http://www.acosvo.org.uk/ ACOSVO is the main Intermediary representing the Chief Executives of Voluntary Organisations in Scotland.

Social Enterprise Coalition http://www.socialenterprise.org.uk/ SEC is the main Intermediary body for Social Enterprise and is at the forefront of shaping policy and direction for the Social Enterprise sector in England.0. Already working closely with the Government to help shape the landscape for SE in the years ahead. Scottish Social Enterprise Coalition http://www.scottishsocialenterprise.org.uk/ SSEC is the sister organisation of SEC and operates exclusively in Scotland. They are the main Intermediary body and at the forefront of shaping policy and direction for the Social Enterprise sector in Scotland. Development Trusts Association http://www.dta.org.uk/ http://mail-communications.rbs.com/ preference_centre.asp register for free weekly economy summary – a summary on view of the previous weeks economic news and data all on one page www.businessfinanceforyou.co.uk has in one place

a wide range of finance providers across Britain enabling businesses to more easily seek the finance they require www.mentorsme.co.uk Britain’s first online gateway for businesses looking for mentoring help

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Appendix 9b Interview with Nadene Stevenson - Founder of Ruby Rock’s Footwear Brand Please note as this interview was conducted over a 3 hour period only key outcomes only will be cited here. What is your background?. “My first job after leaving school was at Next working in the accessories division. At the age of 21, I had achieved what I wanted and was working as a buyer for John Lewis. Following that I worked as an accessories Buyer/Childrens Merchandiser for French Connection, Licensing manager/Sales Manager / Product Developer for G H Warner Footwear, Sales Manager - Pentland Brands plc, Sales Agent Intermedium Shoes BV. Eventually in September 2011, I started my own company Uk:Sole, and started producing footwear under the Ruby Rocks licence name. Why did you launch your own company? “ I have been working in this industry for over 20 years so I have an in-depth knowledge of how it works. I wanted to challenge myself in a different way so to form my own company was the next natural step for me”. How did establish your target market? “The teenage fashion market is one I have always worked in, so I know and understand this market. Due to my previous experience I also have many contacts in this market. I had contacts for suppliers, factories and buyers, which made it alot easier for me to set-up”.

What challenges did you face starting your own brand eg funding/day to day running/hard to find a factory/finding buyers? “It is difficult especially at the moment trying to get invoices paid, I have spent so much time chasing invoices for payment. Finding a factory or buyers was not so difficult as I already had these contacts”. Had you many issues with suppliers or factories? (late delivery, samples not matching specification sheets) “Late deliveries were a problem, and occasionally there was a quality issue, however from experience I knew to have this issue addressed with the factory in advance of working with them. What are the rewards and highlights for you? “I enjoy being my own boss, I can do what I want to do and I see a purpose to what I am doing. My highlight so far has been receiving the Drapers - Young Fashion Footwear Brand of the year 2012”. Were you to start again is there anything you would do differently? “I would bring a financial backer on board the next time, it is difficult when you are personally funding this project yourself and have the stress of a mortgage to be paid every month as well as other daily outgoings”. What is your view of footwear market today? “I believe things will get better, it will take more time but things will improve.”

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Appendix 9c Structuring a Range Plan

Top Purely seasonal elements Generate Interest Bring New Energy to the Product Mix Editorial Pieces Middle Products that are refreshed each season with new colours and prints Basic styles remain the same Over time may adapt these products and perfect them Tried and tested shapes which have already been proved in the market place Base Range Successful items which form the foundation of the overall product assortment generate a predictable stream of revenue products do not change dramatically from season to season staple pieces of your product offering

Diagram 9.1 How to structure a Range Plan (Business of Fashion, 2012)

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Appendix 9d Advantages and Disadvantages of each Distribution Model Wholesale Consignment E-commerce Agents Showroom Wholesale Advantage and Disadvantage of Wholesale Distribution

Advantage: Requires less upfront investment in infrastructure (retail premises) Reduces the financial risk associated with production and manufacturing costs as only produce stock ordered Method of testing response to a product or collection With purchase orders from retailers in hand, fashion businesses can more easily gain access to capital (whether debt or equity) that can help to finance the production of goods which may not return cash to the business for months to come (Business of Fashion, 2013) Increases brand exposure in new markets and locations Securing wholesaling to a prestigious store eg. Selfridges can raise the brand’s profile According to designer Chie Mihara “a lot of boutiques come after us because we’re in big stores like Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue” (Young, 2010). Provides a method of trialing a region before making a substantial commitment Potential for high volume sales if large wholesale accounts secured Disadvantage Given that most small brands have limited industry awareness and contacts, building a wholesale business often involves hiring an experienced in-house salesperson Loss of revenue as wholesale price can be 2.5 3 times less than retail price Buyers may drop the brand if not meeting expected sales targets in-store Limited input on product display in-store hence potential impact on brand image Wholesale accounts may demand discounts

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Payment terms can be 30-90 days, hence can create cash-flow problem for the brand Risk of brand over-exposure if this distribution channel not managed efficiently Consignment Advantage and Disadvantage of Consignment Advantage: Free exposure for the brand Disadvantage: Financial risk for the brand, especially if product does not sell E-commerce Advantage and Disadvantage of E-commerce The brand currently has not sufficient capital to stock an e-commerce operation, hence its website will be for branding/marketing purposes only. However the brand will wholesale to online retailers such as Yoox, Spartoo, the Corner Advantage: limit “dead-stock” only manufacture sufficient stock to complete orders Increases brand exposure/visibility Disadvantage Provides increased competition for “bricks and mortar” retailers Out of season unsold stock may remain visible on an e-tailers website, potentially impacting on the brands image as outdated Some e-tailers may undertake aggressive discounting which can be damaging to a brands’ image No control on your product presentation online Agents Advantage and Disadvantage of Agents Advantage Increases brand exposure and product orders Has local and regional knowledge and can advise the brand on local payment methods, stockists preferred credit terms, public holidays (may impact on deliveries schedule) etc. Usually agents carry complementary brands, hence should have a focused list of potential

stockists in their specific region Allow the brand to target regions which due to location or cultural barriers (eg.language) may otherwise be inaccessible to the brand Can aid in collection of monies from retailers may help with/or attend Left of Field’s trade shows Disadvantage Expense of supplying samples/colour cards/ promotion materials to agent Commission fee needs to be paid to the agent (dependent on stock volume sold) Agent may focus on selling brands which will yield him/her the maximum amount of commission Agent may represent many brands diluting the time donated to selling each brand No guarantee of sales despite sample cost outlay Showroom Advantage and Disadvantage of Showrooms Left of Field may also consider a showroom as selling avenue. The brand will need to confirm what brands the showroom is currently stocking to ensure it is targeting the right profile of buyers. Advantage Gives brand exposure to many buyers in a single location May have other offices in European cities which can help expose the brand This person, or agency, will generally leverage their networks and relationships to make sure the brand get appointments with the right buyers, the product is presented effectively and, ultimately, secure orders. Disadvantage Expense - need to provide samples collection Expense - work on a flat fee or commission basis (% of wholesale price) No guarantee of sales despite sample cost outlay

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Appendix 9d Advantages and Disadvantages of each Distribution Model Trade Show Advice Attend trade shows such as Pure, Premium, Tranoi, Micam, Capsule, Bread and Butter Ensure all trade shows are researched prior to exhibiting as each show attracts a different audience. If attending shows regularly, keep a consistent location as easier for accounts to locate the brand (especially at the larger shows). Lookbooks and line sheets are a good marketing tool however can be expensive to produce. Consider putting the file on a branded flashdrive or referring buyers to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website.

potential for styles to be copied by other brands especially at early trade-shows No guarantee of sales despite sample cost outlay/stand/exhibition cost

The advantages and disadvantages of Trade Shows Advantage Potential for exposure to multiple retail accounts both locally and globally Potential Marketing/PR method - brand may receive mentions in Tradeshow magazines and other industry editorials Effective/time-saving method of showcasing the brand Opportunity to meet existing and new clients, get feedback from buyers regards consumer wants and feedback from buyers regards the brands sell-through sales opportunity to see what the competition are offering Disadvantage: Expensive - Tradeshow attendance (depending on stand size) can begin from ÂŁ6000 upwards. Stand display and transportation must also be provided by the brand Need to exhibit regularly at tradeshows to build brand visibility and build relationships with buyers May be difficult for start-up brands to secure a space in a tradeshow May be allocated a stand with poor buyer footfall hence impacting on sales

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Appendix 9e Primary Research: Survey “Buyers Viewpoint of Start-Up Footwear Brands”

Survey Name: Buyers Viewpoint of Start-Up Footwear Brands Total 2 Respondents Faye Bradbury (Buyer > 50 stores - Ladies Footwear, River Island) Helen Povey (Senior Buyer > 50 stores - Ladies Footwear, Schuh)

5-10 per month = 50% 1-5 per month = 0% Other Responses answers = 1

Question 6 Which of the following would deter you from stocking a start-up brand?

Other comments Bradbury “River Island isn’t approached by many established brands as we’re not a big brand stockist”.

Does not have an established supply chain = 50% Retail merchandise may not match original order samples = 0% Other Option = 50% Unrealistic price points = 0% Poor range planning = 0% Consumer may not be familiar with brand = 0% Risk of late delivery = 0% Comments Bradbury “Most of these would be equally considered and important”. Povey “not meeting minimums on styles”

Survey conducted via www.polldaddy.com Follow link: http://pquille1.polldaddy.com/s/ buyer-s-viewpoint-of-start-up-footwearbrands-1 Footwear buyers were identified via LinedIn and then an email with the survey link attached was forwarded to the selected footwear buyers.

Question 3 How many times per month are you contacted by start up brands interested in being stocked in-store/on-line

Question 1 Why would you choose to stock a new brand in your store/on-line?

Other comments: Bradbury “More so than established brands”. Povey “ONCE”

To increase product offering across the store/ on-line = 100% Brand recommended by industry, press, stylist = 0% To replace a competitor brand who is underperforming in terms of sales/services = 0% To expand the price point levels offered in store/on-line = 0% To target a new market = 0% To retain customer interest = 0%

Question 4 Approximately how many new established accounts would you open per year?.

Comments Bradbury: “Increasing the product offer/ refreshing the product offer is key in retail at the moment. We have to keep the ranges dynamic and exciting for the customers”. Povey “BRING NEWNESS IN”

Very likely = 50% Neutral = 50% Very unlikely = 0% Somewhat unlikely = 0% Somewhat likely = 0%

Question 2 How many times per month are you contacted by established brands interested in being stocked in-store/on-line Answers Other Option = 50%

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Other Option = 100% 11-20 per month = 0% 1-10 per month = 0%

1-5 = 100% 6-10 = 0% > 15 = 0% Question 5 How likely are you to stock a start-up brand?

Comments Bradbury: A startup brand is a risk so it would have to be calculated and reviewed in terms of finance and also reliability of delivering what we agreed to buy on time.

Question 7 What are the positive aspects of stocking a start-up brand? Offers an innovative product = 50% Other Option = 50% Product targets a niche market = 0% May attract new consumer profile = 0% Other Comments Bradbury “Great to be first to market with a product”. Povey “New fashion styling” Question 8 How would you prefer a brand contact you to consider their product range? Contact buyer via telephone and introduce brand = 50% Contact buyer via e-mail, introduce brand, line sheet attached to email = 50% Call to shop or office with sample merchandise = 0% Contact buyer via e-mail, introduce brand, offer to send on line sheet = 0% Comments Povey “I like a phone call followed up by an email with the information on it”.

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Appendix 10a for Overview of the Advantages and Disadvantages of Each Social Media Platform Question 9 How likely are you to have an introductory meeting with a start-up to present their brand and collection to you?

Facebook

Somewhat likely = 100% Very unlikely = 0% Somewhat unlikely = 0% Neutral = 0% Very likely = 0%

• Provides a platform for interactive communication with its consumer base

Question 10 How many stores do you currently buy for? >50 = 100% 20-40 = 0% 10-20 = 0%

Advantage: • Allows the brand to create an authentic brand identity and outline its brand values

Disadvantage: • negative feedback can be posted online however some companies do filter out negative consumer posts Twitter Advantage: • Concise and efficient method of promoting information Disadvantage: • Posted “tweets” can get easily be ignored in the large volumes of “tweets” a user may receive daily • Unable to post videos, Twitter only facilitates photographs • Limited information can be posted maximum of 140 characters/tweet Tumblr/Pinterest/Instagram Advantage: • These image sharing sites allow the brand to concisely promote its ethos and products Disadvantage: • Only relevant enticing imagery should be posted to keep the page interesting, hence time must be dedicated to achieving

this.

Blogs: Advantage: • This medium can be used to display lifestyle content which compliments the brands’ ethos. • For examples blogs can use interviews with stylists, photographers, other bloggers and creatives to build engaging content on their blog. Blogs can feature inspiration trips undertaken by the brand, restaurants the brand favours, books, films etc. • Allows the brands’ blog to partner with other like minded bloggers Disadvantage: • Time consuming, needs to be updated regularly • Youtube Advantage: • Posting videos on YouTube can be a highly effective way for brands to promote products to customers. Disadvantage: • The main limitation of YouTube as a platform is the low awareness of customers with regards to new videos being posted. While brands can use the platform to create accounts where all their videos are stored in one place, the level of subscription to YouTube channels tends to be low; for example, H&M has just under 12,000 subscribers. The use of YouTube works best in conjunction with other social media platforms such as Facebook and Twitter where retailers can embed YouTube videos and post links, thereby increasing consumers’ awareness of the videos.

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Appendix 11a United Nude’s Koolhaas Advise on Collaborations

Collaboration example

United Nude and haute couture designers Iris van Herpen

Who should you collaborate with?

According to United Nude’s Koolhaas “You should always try to work with people who have skills you don’t have yourself and that are the best in their field” (Lewis (4) 2013).

Advantage for United Nude: limited-edition styles with price points higher than the label’s other offerings. Koolhaas cites the combination of “creative strengths and exposure” garnished as the benefits of collaboration to his brand (Lewis (4) 2013)

Challenges:

Koolhaas states time constraints and the pressure to create a “special and beautiful” product as the challenging aspects of collaborations. He also observes that these current collaborations are “mostly noncommercial” (Lewis, J (4), 2013). Koolhaas cites the necessity of “vision, time and hard work to make the product...and after that you need a good PR strategy to get the news out” (Lewis, J(4) 2013).

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* Bibliography

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Books Easey, M. (2009) Fashion marketing / edited by Mike Easey. 3rd ed. Oxford : Wiley-Blackwell Giron, M.E. (2010) Inside luxury : the growth and future of the luxury industry : a view from the top. London : LID Hameide, K. A. (2011) Fashion Branding Unraveled, New York : Fairchild Books. Meadows, T. (2009) How to set up & run a fashion label , London : Laurence King, 2009. Seivewright, A.(2007) Research and Design, Lausanne ; Worthing: AVA Academia, 2007.

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reports platfrom [Online]. Available at: http: //www.wgsn.com (Accessed: 25 October 2013).

Verdict (2013b) `How Britain Shops Footwear Verdict’ Verdict reports platform [Online]. Available at: https://service-verdictretail-com (Accessed 13th October 2013)

Journals

Verdict (2013c) `Global Luxury Retailing - Main Conclusions’ Verdict reports platform [On-line]. Available at: https://service-verdictretail-com (Accessed on 10th October 2013). Verdict (2011) `Social Media Strategies in Global Retailing’, Verdict report platforms [Online] Available at https://serviceverdictretail-com (Accessed on 1st October 2013)

Anniss, E. (2010) `Robert Clergerie Is Still the Toast of France’, FOOTWEAR NEWS 46(3) pp, WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com (Accessed 28th October 2013) Corcoran, C (2010) Marketing’s New Rage: Brands Sponsoring Influential Bloggers, WWD [Online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/media-news/ marketing/marketings-new-ragebrands-sponsor-influential-bloggers-3230386?page=1( Accessed 16th November 2013)

Warc (2011)Trends `10 global trends in 2020 Warc’ Warc reports platform [Online]. Available at: /www.warc.com (Accessed: 2nd October 2013).

Diderich, J (2013) `Made in France Label Gets a Boost’. FOOTWEAR NEWS VOL. 69 NO. 33, WWD [Online] Available at:http:// www.wwd.com (Assessed 6th November 2013)

Euromonitor (2012b) `10 Global Consumer Trends for the Next Five Years Strategy Briefing’ Euromonitor reports platform [Online]. Available at: https:// www.portal.euromonitor.com (Accessed on 4th October 2012)

WGSN (2013a) `Michael Kors unveils stellar Q2 as global demand accelerates’ WGSN reports platform [Online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com (Accessed on 14th November 2013)

Diderich, J (2013) `Fung Capital Buys Sonia Rykiel Brand.’ FOOTWEAR NEWS VOL. 68 NO. 7, WWD [Online]. Available at http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed 28th October 2013)

WGSN (2013b) `Chinese tourists: affordable luxury grows’, WGSN reports platform [Online]. Available at:http:// www.wgsn.com (Accessed on 9th November 2013)

Diderich, J (2013) `Robert Clergerie Signs Footwear License With Sonia Rykiel’. WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www. wwd.com (Accessed 30th October 2013)

Mintel (2011) `Marketing to Women - UK - March 2011’, Mintel oxygen reports platform [Online]. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com (Accessed 11th October 2013)

WGSN (2013c) `Storytelling: making it work for your brand’, WGSN reports platform [Online] Available at:http:// www.wgsn.com. (Accessed 7th November 2013)

Lewis, J.(2012a) 5 Questions for Rem D. Koolhaas. Footwear News Vol. 68 NO. 5, WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed 1st November 2013)

Nexis (2013) `Rem Koolhaas, the Designer, Making a Name for Himself’’, WWD 198(124) Nexis [Online].Available at: http://www.lexisnexis.com. (Accessed at: 04/11/13)

WGSN (2013d) `A/W 13/14: Micam footwear brands’, WGSN reports platfrom [Online]. Available at: http: //www.wgsn.com (Accessed: 4th November 2013).

Lewis, J.(2012b) United Nude on the Expansion Trail’ WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed:4th November 2013)

Market research reports – online databases Euromonitor (2012a) `Apparel: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics’ Euromonitor reports platform [Online]. Available at: https://www.portal. euromonitor.com (Accessed on 18th October 2012)

Verdict (2013a) `Global Luxury Retailing Trends’, Verdict reports platform [Online].

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WGSN (2013e) `Product discovery: Birchbox local pop-up, New York’ WGSN

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Lewis, J. (2013a) `Playing the Collaboration Game’ Footwear News Vol. 69 No. 7 WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed: 28/10/2013)

Business of Fashion (2012) The-basicspart-5-design-and-development [Online] Available at http://www. businessoffashion.com. (Accessed on 4th August 2013)

Lewis, J.(2013b) `How runway shoes reach the Mass Market’ Footwear News Vol. 69 NO. 29 WWD [Online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com (Accessed on 14th October 2103)

Business of Fashion, (2013) `China’s Anti-Corruption Campaign is Masking the Real Causes of the Luxury Slowdown by CBNWEEKLY ‘, [Online] Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com. (Accessed: 2nd November 2013).

Lipke, D (2013) “Humberto Leon and Carol Lim: The Cool Kids of Opening Ceremony Remake Kenzo” WWD [Online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed 28th October 2013) Schneider-Levy, B. (2013a) `Comfort Business Attracts Shoe Newcomers’ Footwear News Vol. 69 No. 7, WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed:1th November 2013) Schneider-Levy, B. (2013b) ‘3 Questions for Chelsea Jones’ Available at http:// www.wwd.com. (Accessed 23rd October 2013) Socha, M (2011) `Fung Capital, Loubier to Acquire Robert Clergerie’. WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed 28th October 2013) Young, M. (2010) `10 Questions for Chie Mihara’ WWD [Online]. Available at: http://www.wwd.com. (Accessed: 3rd October 2013) Websites: Atwood, B. (2013) Brian Atwood Home Page, Brian Atwood [on-line] Available at:http://www.brianatwood.com (Accessed on 14th November 2013)

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Canty, K. (2012) “Consumer Capital” Content Marketing [online] Available at: http://www.the-cma.com/news/ consumer-capital. (Accessed 20th November 2013). Clergerie, R.(2013) New Collection [Online]. Available at: http://www. robertclergerie.com/en/new-collection (Accessed on 10th October 2013) Facebook (2013) “Julia Frakes - Timeline Page”. Available at https://www.facebook. com/bunnyBISOUS/info?collection_to ken=1465920124%3A2327158227%3A8 (Accessed 13th November 2013) Facebook (2013) “ Felicias Stern Timeline Page” Available at: https://www. facebook.com/felicitas.stern?fref=ts. (Accessed at 10th November 2013) Facebook (2013 “Nadia Cheri - Timeline Page” Available at:https://www.facebook. com/nadia.cheri (Accessed: 12th November 2013) Facebook (2013) Marni Timeline Page [Online] Available at: https:// www.facebook.com/pages/MarniOfficial/256038461098666?fref=ts (Accessed 17th November 2013) Gaidatzi, G. (2007) Spain’s shoe industry looks homeward NY Times [Online] Available at:http://www.nytimes.com. (Accessed on 3rd October 2013). Marni (2013) Shop Autumn Winter 13/14 [Online]. Available at: http://www.marni.

com/searchresult.asp?tskay=B84CE7A2& season=main&c=cat_103&gender=D&ag erange=Adult (Accessed on 8th October 2013) Mihara, C. (2013) Collection Fll/Winter 13/14 [Online]. Available at: http://www. chiemihara.com/collection-LangEng.html (Accessed 7th October 2013) Opening Ceremony (2013)Home Women Footwear [Online]. Available at http:// www.openingceremony.us/products. asp?menuid=2&catid=16. (Accessed: 5th October 2013) Facebook (2013) Opening Ceremony Facebook. Homepage [Online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/ openingceremony?fref=ts (Accessed 22nd October 2013) Singer, M (2011) `Style File Blog Roland Mouret And Robert Clergerie On The Future Of Shoes’ [Online]. Available at: http://www.style.com. (Accessed 30th October 2013). Six (2013) `Product Sourcing’. Available at:http://www.sixlondon.com. (Accessed at (10th November 2013). Trong, S. (2013) `Tom Ford’s Definitive Guide on How to Make It in Fashion’, Fashionista, 12th November. Available at: http://fashionista.com. (Accessed: 13th November 2013) United Nude (2013) About United Nude. Available at: http://www.unitednude.com (Accessed: 4th November 2013) Lockerbie, C. (2013) `Facebook- Timeline Page’ Available at: https://www.facebook. com/claire.lockerbie.9. (Accessed 13th November 2013). United Nude (2013) `Homepage facebook’. Available at: https://www. facebook.com. (Accessed 10th November 2013)

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United Nude (2013) Homepage Instagram. Available at:http://instagram. com/un_shoes. (Accessed: 10th November 2013) United Nude (2013) Homepage Pinterest. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/ unitednude (Accessed: 10th November 2013) United Nude (2013) Homepage Twitter, 10th November 2013 [Online]. Available at: https://twitter.com/unitednude (Accessed: 10th November 2013) Industry Placement Year (November 2012 - June 2013) Personal experience from industry placement year undertaken with Emma Go in Elda, Spain and with Topshop in London has been referenced as Quille, 2013 Exhibitions 3D Print Show, (2013) 3D Print Show [Exhibition]. Exhibited at Business Design Centre, London 7th-9th November 2013 Barbican, 2013 Pop Art Design [Museum] Exhibited at the Barbican London 22nd October - 9th February 2014 British Museum, (2013) Africa [Museum]. Exhibited at the British Museum - permanent exhibition 2013. Choucair, S. (2013) Choucair at Tate [Museum]. Exhibited at Tate Modern, London17th April - 17th November 2013. Design Museum, (2013) The Future is Here [Museum]. Exhibited at the Design Museum London 24th July to 29th October 2013. Science Museum, (2013) 3D Printing the Future [Museum]. Exhibited at Science Museum, London 9th October 2013 - 15th June 2014

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Talks Art Wednesday, The Loop (2013) Inspirational entrepreneurs: stories of success [Talk to LCF students at London College of Fashion] 18 November 2013 Bell, D (2013) Pretty Ballerina’s with David Bell [Talk to Retail and Luxury Goods Club, London College of Fashion] 9th October 2013 Brown, R (2013) Abbey Saddlery with Richard Brown [Talk to Cordwainer’s students at London College of Fashion] 15th November 2013 Burford, J., Leyens, B., Willis, E., The art of fashion entrepreneurship [Talk to LCF students at London College of Fashion] 20 November 2013 Hare, M., Kirkwood, N., Sanderson, R. Inside the Industry: Footwear and Accessories [Talk to LCF students at London College of Fashion] 17 October 2013 Howe, N (2013) Start-up 1: Things to consider before starting out [Talk to LCF students, London College of Fashion] 18th November 2013 Knight, N (2013) Inside the Industry: Nick Knight [Talk to LCF students at London College of Fashion] 15th October 2013

London Royal Academy of the Arts 2013 Scion Gallery, Old Street London (materials research) United Nude, 13 Floral Street, London V&A Museum London 2013 Interviews Unknown David, (2013) Interview with Robert Clergerie Store Manager, London 2013. Unknown Maria, (2013) Interview with United Nude store assistant, London 2013. Stevenson, N. (2013) Interview with the author, London 2013. Nadene Stevenson - Founder of Ruby Rock’s Footwear Workshops Design Museum - Everything you ever needed to know about ...appropriate technology (12th October 2013) Design Museum - Everything you ever needed to know about ...3D Printing and mass customisation (19th October) Design Museum - Everything you ever needed to know about ...CNC routers (26th October 2013)

Primary Research Visits 3D Print Shoe - London 2013 Design Museum, London 3d print workshops 2013 ( Imarkr Store - Clerkenwell imarkr @ Selfridges - London 2013 London Design Festival 17th September, Clerkenwell Opening Ceremony Store, Covent Garden, London Portobello Saturday Market visit Robert Clergerie, 67 Wigmore Street,

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Images

(Accessed 25th October 2013).

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#29, 30,35,36 Coveteur, (2013) ATHENA CALDERONE CREATOR, EYE-SWOON.COM & INTERIOR DESIGNER. NEW YORK [Online]. Available at http://thecoveteur.com/athenacalderone/ (Accessed 25th October 2013).

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#32 Coveteur, (2013) Mickey Boardman TV Personality & Director [Online]. Available at http://thecoveteur.com/ mickey-boardman/

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# 17,34, 115 Coveteur, (2013) Home Kate Foley [Online] Available at: http://

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www.thecoveteur.com/kate-foley (Accessed on 25th November 2013).

#84 Facebook (2013) Opening Ceremony Homepage [Online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/ #7,8,24,25,25,27 Coveteur (2013) Elisa Nalin openingceremony?fref=ts (Accessed Stlist Paris [Online] Available at :http:// 22nd October 2013) thecoveteur.com/elisa-nalin/ (Accessed 25th November 2013). #58, 60 Facebook (2013) “ Felicias Stern Timeline Page” Available at: https://www. #37 Coveteur, (2013) Coveteurs Pets facebook.com/felicitas.stern?fref=ts. [Online] Available at: http://www. Accessed at 10th November 2013) thecoveteur.com/coveteurs-pets/ (Accessed on 25th November 2013). #11 FTAPE, (2012) Maison Martin Margiela x H&M Full Preview # 18,31,113 Coveteur, (2013) Home Dan [Online] Available at: http://ftape. Ragone, President of Brant Communi com/media/?p=49057&fb_action_ cations New York [Online] Available at: ids=10151261742111071&fb_ http://www.thecoveteur/dan-rag action_types=og.likes&fb_ one/. (Accessed on 25th November 2013). source=aggregation&fb_aggregation_ id=288381481237582 (Accessed 16th #23 Coveteur, (2013) Mona Sharf Director Novemver 2013) Communications Theory & Helmut Lang [Online]. Available at: http://thecoveteur. #125 Hand and Lock, (2013) Susie Bubble com/mona-sharf/ (Accessed on 11th to visit Hand and Lock [Online]Available October 2013). at: http://handandlockblog.wordpress. com/2013/06/07/susie-bubble-to-visit#9, 115 De Harak, R (1950-1960) hand-lock/(Accessed 1st December 2013) Deconstructed Graphic Design and Art Direction [Online] Available at: http://www. #136 Haring, Keith, (1983) Keith deconstructed.org.uk/DeBlog/?p=3584 Haring: The Political Line [Online] (Accessed on 26th November 2013). http://keithharingfoundationarchives. wordpress.com/category/exhibition/ (Accessed on 21st November 2013)

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#134 It’s Nice that (2012) Zaha Hadid creates new installation referencing her triumphant Olympic Aquatics Centre [Online] Available at: http://www.itsnicethat. com/articles/zaha-hadid-dover-street-market (Accessed on 21st November 201) #121 Jobs Papa (2013) Funny Elephant Acrobat Picture Photo Animal [Online] Available at: http://jobspapa.com/funnyelephant-acrobat-picture-photo-animal. html (Accessed 14th November 2013) #135 Lauritz Blog International, (2012) Memphis Group, boys and their toys Italian Style! [Online] Available at: http:// intl.lauritzblog.com/2012/06/29/memphisgroup-boys-and-their-toys-italian-style/ #28 Khor, M. (2010) Clima de tensiones en Cancún [Online]. Available at http://agendaglobal.redtercermundo.org. uy/2010/12/10/clima-de-tensiones-en-cancun/ (Accessed 25th October 2013). #12 Junk haus (2010) Haus Obsessed [Online] Available at: http://thejunkhaus. com/page/38/(Accessed 16th Novemver 2013) #103 Marni (2013) Marni homepage [Online] Available at: http://www.marni.com/ home.asp?tskay=B84CE7A2 (Accessed on 4th November 2013) #106, 107, 108, 109 Marni (2013) Shop Autumn Winter 13/14 [Online]. Available at: http://www.marni.com/searchresult.asp?t skay=B84CE7A2&season=main&c=cat_10 3&gender=D&agerange=Adult (Accessed on 8th October 2013) #55, 75, 76 Michael, A. (2012) Thierry Dreyfus designs the new Robert Clergerie boutique in PariS [Online] Available at: http://www.wallpaper.com/ fashion/thierry-dreyfus-designs-thenew-robert-clergerie-boutique-inparis/6085#Mk414Dv7mSTg0fDu.99 (Accessed 17th October 2013)

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#56, 62,63 Miss Moss, (2011) United Nude, Store Opening, London [Online] Available at: http://missmoss.com. au/2011/08/united-nude-store-openinglondon/ (Accessed on 25th October 2013) # 125,126,127,128 Net-a-porter (2013) Women’s Shoes [Online] Available at: http://www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Shoe s?level3Filter=&pn=1&npp=60&image_vi ew=product&dScroll=665&designerFilt er=128&sizeScheme=IT (Accessed 28th September 2013) #114 OffMag Blogspot (2013) Visual arts Blog: Eiko Ojala [Online] Available at: http://offmag.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/ eiko-ojala.html (Accessed 17th November 2013). #78, 83 Opening Ceremony (2013) Homepage [Online] http://www. openingceremony.us/ (Accessed: 5th October 2013) # 90, 91, 92, 93, 94 Opening Ceremony (2013) Home Women Footwear [Online] Available at http://www. openingceremony.us/products. asp?menuid=2&catid=16. (Accessed: 5th October 2013) #61, 74 Quille, P (2013) Primary Research Undertaken by the Author #110, 111 Retail Design Blog, (2012) Marni flagship store by Sybarite, Beijing [Online] Available at: http:// retaildesignblog.net/tag/shelving/ (Accessed on 30th November 2013) #13 Studio Too Good, (2012) Super Naturtal Carpe Diem Club [Online] Available at: http://carpediemclub.files. wordpress.com/2010/09/picture-1.png (Accessed 16th Novemver 2013)

#113,137 Studio TooGood (2009) The Hatch [Online] Available at: http:// studiotoogood.jfa.withassociates.com/ our-work/exhibition-event-design/thehatch/the-hatch-gallery (Accessed on 19th October 2013). #120, 122 Tumblr, (2013)Swear London Lampshade [Online] Available at: http:// swear-london.tumblr.com/ (Accessed on 16th October 2013) #57, 59 United Nude (2013) A/W 2013 Collection Womens [Online] Available at http://www.unitednude.com/womens (Accessed 17th October 2013) # 64, 65,66,67,68,69 United Nude (2013) A/W 2013 Collection Womens [Online] Available at http://www.unitednude. com/womens (Accessed 17th October 2013) #59 United Nude (2013) About United Nude. Available at: http://www.unitednude. com (Accessed: 4th November 2013) #21, 119 Unknown, (2013) American Woman: A Mood Board For Our Latest Trend [Online] Available at: http://blog. freepeople.com/2013/04/americanwoman-inspired-latest-trend/ (Accessed 16th November 2013) #2, 4, 132,133 Walker Tim (2011) Like a Doll Italian Vogue [Online] Available at: http:// timwalkerphotography.com/recent_ work.php (Accessed on 23rd November 2013)

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#19 Walker, T. (2011) TIM WALKER. BOO RITSONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TWO DOUGHNUTS & PAINT AMERICAN VOGUE [Online]. Available at: http://www.theswellelife.com/swelle_ life/2013/07/desserts-a-la-tim-walker.html (Accessed on 25th November 2013) # 1 Walker, T. (2010a) Malgosia Bela & Laura Mccone Italian Vogue Available at: http://timwalkerphotography.com/ archive_images.php (Accessed 25th November 2013) # 15 Walker Tim (2010) Humpty Dumpty and Karlie Kloss [Online]. Available at: http://timwalkerphotography.com/archive_images.php (Accessed on 23rd November 2013) # 3 Walker Tim (1999) Lillac Horse [Online]. Available at: http://timwalkerphotography.com/archive_images.php (Accessed on 23rd November 2013) #22 Ware, A. (2013) The Joy of Cycling [Online] Available at: http://accessandoptimism.com/2013/10/22/the-joy-of-cycling/ (Accessed on 17th October 2013)

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* Acknowledgements

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A huge “Thank You” to everybody who has helped me complete this project proposal!... my tutor Sue Saunders for advice and guidance, Paddy Dowling at study support, my classmates, friends and parents who gave support throughout and completed my rather long survey. Nadene Stevenson, David at Robert Clergerie, Maria at United Nude, Horation at Reira for their time and willingness to provide information. And most especially to my cousin Orlagh O’Brien, who without her never ending help, patience and words of reassurance this proposal would look very different indeed!

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