The Simple Sew guide to Full Bust Adjustments

MADE BECAUSE WE ARE ALL DIFFERENT!

Achieve a perfect fit for your unique shape

SIMPLE SEW POCKET GUIDE

PATTERN SIZE CHARTS

our sizing We have two types of block we design from, the EASY FIT and the CLOSE FIT. Everything we design comes from these two starting points, so there are no surprises when we design new styles because we kno w the fit is always going to work.

The easy fit block produces a garment that has more wigg le room in it, more space to breathe if you like, depending on the garment shape of course, but in the case of dresses, there is 2” ease across the bust, 1 ½” across the waist and 2”around the hips on average.

If you refer to the back of your pattern envelope you will more often find the finished garment measurements, not the body measurements.We put this information on so that you can choose your size based on how big the actual finished garment will be.

Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Bust

33”

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

45”

25½”

27 ½” ”

29½”

31½”

33½”

35½”

37½”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

48”

Waist Hips

36”

The body measurements for each size, which we use to work out how big to make our finished garments, are in the chart below.

The close fit block produces a dress with 1” ease across the bust, 1” around the waist and 1½” around the hips on average, so this block is altogether more figure huggi ng and slim fitting.

SIZE CHART

Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Bust

31”

33”

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

Bust

32”

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

Waist

24”

26”

28”

30”

32”

34”

36”

Waist

25”

27”

29”

31”

33”

35”

37”

Hips

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

46”

Hips

35½”

37 ½”

39½”

41½”

43½”

45½”

47½”

STEP BY STEP

The Full Bust Adjustment The most common request for help we get here at Simple Sew HQ is how to create more space in the bust area. So here is a little background info… nothing too technical and definitely nothing to worry about.

likely that you will also need to amend other areas of the pattern such as the waist and maybe the hips, but that is a matter of simply grading between sizes usually. easy to do, but t covered in this tutorial fully, although we will skim over that brie y.

An FBA is designed to give you the best fit possible across the bust area without affecting the fit of the rest of the garment.

Do you even need to do an FBA?

It isn’t enough to just go for a larger size to accommodate your bust, as this will only result in you having gaping armholes, a gaping back or neckline and an ill fitting waist etc. No, if you are going to make a dress to fit you, you may as well go the whole hog! So we have to look at the bigger picture, so to speak. There are a few measurements to take and a little bit of simple maths, but nothing you can’t handle.

Remember that the FBA amend will change the fit across the BUST only. It is

Well, there is a quick way to work this out, and it is where the measuring and the maths comes in easy maths, easy measuring. Simply, if the difference between your HIGH bust and your FULL bust is more than 2” then you are better off doing a FBA. I think the first thing to know is if you need to do one or not, so get a friend over to measure you and get your tape measures at the ready.

1 Take your measurements Take your measurements. It is always better not to do this yourself but to ask somebody else to ensure accuracy. Don’t pull the tape too tightly or stretch it, have it held around your body so it is not tight against your skin, but not too lose either and don’t pull your tummy in (we all do it), just breathe naturally, you want to end up with a comfortable garment, not one you have to slim into! Make sure you are wearing a good fitting bra that will give you the shape that you want and that you will be wearing with the garment you are amending with the FBA.

My body measurments:

HIGH BUST FULLBUST

WAIST

HIPS

2

Example:

Decide if you need to do an FBA

JANE’S BODY measurements are : HIGH BUST: 35” FULL BUST: 38”

WAIST: 28” HIPS: 39”

Calculate THE DIFFERENCE BETWEENhigh bust and full bust:

Example: HIGH BUST= 34” FULL BUST = 36½”

DIFFERENCE = 2½”

3

}

SIMPLE SEWBODY MEASUREMENTS SAY JANE IS: A size 10 across the BUST, a size 1 0 at the waist and moving in between a size 1 0 and a 1 2 at the hips.

In this case an FBA is recom mend ed

So Jane will cut a size 10 for the bust based on her HIGH bust measureme nt and a size 10 for the waist and grade out slightly at the hips (see ‘how to grade up and down’ tutorial for this stage).

4

Working out your size

Identify original apex po int

Assuming you have disco vered that you need to do a FBAyou will need the follo wing equipment:

• Pencil • Eraser (just in case) • Pen/felt tip • Sticky tape

}

DIFFERENCEis 3” between HB and FB

• Clear ruler/pattern master • Curve ruler (if grading in between sizes at waist and hip s) • Pattern paper

Look at your own measurements, how are they looking compared to the BODY measureme nt size chart? Instead of using your FULLbust measurement to ascertain which size to go for, you are going to use your HIGH bust measurement, and then let this dictate which size you cut in the main.

You have done probably the most confusing aspect of the job, working out which size to cut. Now the next step is to cut the pattern up and create the space. We will use Jane’s measurements for this working example, and she needs 3” of extra space in total, so this is divided across each boob, so that is 1½” extra space per boob. (3 divided by 2= 1 .5). Before we slash the pattern we need to identify the original APEX point (the point where the nipple is supposed to sit).

11

22

Identify Identify original original apex apex point point by by making making aa line line going going through through the the centre centre of of each each dart. dart. These These lines lines have have to to cross. cross.

5

7

Draw third line Create a line from original apex point to the armhole.

The point on the armhole should be just above the lower armhole curve.

3

Create a line from original apex point to the armhole.

The point on the armhole should be just above the lower armhol e curve.

2 1

6

Draw a line parallel to line 2.

The dist ance of the parallel lin e is half the measurement of the full bust minus the high bust.

3

Allign the bust dart and the side part of the bodice to the parralel line draw.

Glue or tape down the bust dart and side dart.

1 2 1½”

8

Slash and open Slash through line 2 & 3 from waistline through the apex point to the armhole Then slash through line 1 .

Do not cut right to the edge.

Draw a parallel line

Slash through line 2 & 3 from waistline through the apex point to the armhole, but do not cut through the armhole.

3

1

2

Align the side bodice pieces Align the side parts of the bodice to the parallel line you just drew.

3

Identify new apex point which lyes in the middle between both original apex points.

1 2

1½”

9

11

Identify new apex point

New waist & bust dart placement

3

Align the bust dart and the side part of the bodice to the parallel line.

Glue or tape down the bust dart and side dart.

!

Identify new apex point which lies in the middle between both original apex points.

"

10

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12

Slash and open

Slash through the lower of the bodice. The slash is 90° to the CF/Fold line.

Align the lower part of the bodice with the side part of the bodice.

3

Trace aroun d new shape

3

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#$

Trace around the new shape.

To fill the darts just extend the the lines. Also you will need to add a bit to the length of the dart legs, especially when original waistline is not very curved at the waist dart.

To establish how much, is the best to fold the dart and see.

Ide which l be poi

#SR03

#SR01

#012 #SR04

INSPIRATION GALLERY #003 #SR03

#SR06

#010

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