Prague:walks 2 by Prague.eu

walks Off the Beaten Path to Places Known and Unknown Prague.eu/walks

Contents From Bubeneč to Troja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 An Idyllic Tree-Lined Stroll Among Villas

Holešovice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 A District Reborn

From Vinohrady to Žižkov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Searching for Bohemian Prague

From Letná to Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Head Back in Time to a Hidden Garden

Střešovice and Dejvice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 From Dreamy Villas to Socialist Skyscrapers

Front cover: Stromovka Park with Governor‘s Summer Palace

The best way to discover Prague is on foot. This simple truth is an easily proven fact. Many of the most beautiful sights in the historical centre are only accessible by foot – however, you often find yourself in the company of thousands of other visitors. This is particularly true along the Royal Route, the former route of coronation processions connecting the Powder Tower, Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, and Prague Castle. But there are hundreds of other interesting places in Prague. Leave the crowds behind – come and discover some of the lesser-known sights, whether you’re here for the first time or the tenth. In this, the second in our series of walks, you’ll discover the charms of districts such as Holešovice, Střešovice, Bubeneč, and Žižkov. Each has its own unique character, history, architecture, and atmosphere.

All of our walks have the following things in common: 1 Our primary goal is to introduce you to beautiful, unique places. In these five walks, we emphasize primarily architecture, as well as fine art to a certain extent – from historical to the latest contemporary works. 2 The routes featured in this brochure avoid busy tourist sites entirely. Our mission is to show you the less well-known, but all the more interesting side of our city. 3 The routes are not necessarily designed to be educational, but rather simply lovely walks. Descriptions of places and buildings are deliberately brief, but if you’re interested in more detailed information, please see our website w prague.eu/walks 4 Each route has its own map. In addition to orientation points, notable buildings, and scenic views, we’ve also marked places where you can get something good to eat and drink. A proper walk stimulates the appetite!

a Wear comfortable shoes and be sure you have something to take photos with – there will be plenty of opportunities.

From Bubeneč to Troja An Idyllic Tree-Lined Stroll Among Villas 2

FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

Ponds in Stromovka Park, p. 9

A romantic walk that takes you from the immediate vicinity of Prague Castle to the Bubeneč district, a charming, peaceful neighbourhood full of stylish villas and manicured gardens that are today home to embassies and diplomatic residences. You’ll find ornate Art Nouveau villas with folklore motifs, grand period mansions, as well as the lovely Governor‘s Summer Palace overlooking Stromovka Park, the oldest and most extensive park in Prague. In the park, you can stroll past ponds or take a break under century-old oaks; then hop onto the ferry to the lush green neighbourhood of Troja, where you have a choice of visiting the Botanical Gardens or the Zoo, or taking a tour of the Baroque Troja Chateau. FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

Route Description 1

Chotkovy sady/Gardens k c

Bílek Villa (Bílkova vila) w ghmp.cz

The villa and studio of renowned Czech Art Nouveau sculptor František Bílek were built according to his own designs in the early 20 th century. The façade symbolizes a wheat field and expresses the connection between natural and artistic creation. Inside the villa, you can visit an exhibition featuring the studio’s original furnishings and a selection of Bílek’s Symbolist works.

Bílek Villa

Mickiewiczova St. 3

Písecká brána/Gate w piseckabrana.cz

The gate is part of the former Baroque city fortifications and today serves as a gallery and café. It was right on these former bastions of these fortifications, known as the Marian Wall, that the villas now standing here were built between 1910 and 1914, designed as a Britishstyle “garden city”. Charlotte G. Masaryk Park K Brusce St. Avenue Muchova St. Pelléova St. 4

cross Milady Horákové

Villa Pellé w villapelle.cz

This Neo-Renaissance building dates to the late 19 th century. Its most famous occupant was French General Maurice César Joseph Pellé, who was integral to the formation of the modern Czechoslovak Army (he scrapped the army’s volunteer character and created a regular army with a firm military order.). The villa now serves as a cultural and social centre for exhibitions, concerts, and seminars.

FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

Slavíčkova St. 5 Jan Koula Villa 6 Sucharda Family Villa Mašek Villa Suchardova St. 8 Sucharda Studio Villa 5

Karel

Jan Koula Villa

In a sea of beautiful houses, two adjacent villas – at numbers 15 and 17 – stand out. The villa of builder Jan Koula combines Historicism with elements of folk architecture.

Jan Koula Villa

A stroll through Bubeneč is most delightful in April and May when trees bloom in the gardens. Stromovka is an ideal place for a picnic. FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

Sucharda Family Villa

The second villa – whose facade is decorated with figural frescoes by noted Czech painter Mikoláš Aleš – was the home of the Sucharda family of visual artists. 7

Karel Mašek Villa

Across the street at No. 7 stands the villa of Art Nouveau artist and architect Karel Mašek. It’s stylistically similar to that of Jan Koula, but even more ornate. Of special significance are the painting and modelling of the columns.

Karel Mašek Villa 8

Sucharda Studio Villa

The villa and studio of sculptor Stanislav Sucharda (No. 6) are the work of the founder of Czech architectural Modernism Jan Kotěra and is his only villa preserved in its original condition. It was here that Sucharda created the monument to historian František Palacký situated at Palackého Square. c Na Zátorce St. Jaselská St. Československé armády St. Bubenečská St. Ronalda Reagana St.

FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

Otto Petschek Villa

w cz.usembassy.gov/embassy/prague/ambassadors-residence The grand entrance is a gate to an extensive garden surrounding a luxury First Republic (pre-war) villa, designed for Otto Petschek by architect Max Spielmann. Thanks to the business acumen of the Petscheks, a Jewish family originally from the town of Pečky, they became one of the leading European entrepreneurial and banking dynasties in the 19 th century; their philanthropic activities were also notable. The villa was exceptional for its time in size (an incredible 148 rooms) and its modern facilities (including a fitness room and underground pool in the style of Roman baths). Since the end of the Second World War, the villa has been the property of the United States and serves as the American ambassador’s residence. Pelléova St. 10

Lanna Villa w vila-lanna.cz

A Neo-Renaissance villa with many spectacular elements; one of the first built in this area back in 1872 as a summer home for renowned industrialist and art collector Vojtěch Lanna. The villa sits along the path that Prague’s elite used to reach their favourite area – the Royal Game Preserve (today Stromovka). Nowadays, the premises are used by the Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic. Na Seníku St. 11

V Sadech St.

Julius Petschek Villa

V Sadech St. leads around the rear of a magnificent villa, until recently quite dilapidated but now newly renovated in Eclectic style, built by Otto Peschek’s uncle, Julius. In 2020, the Museum of Czech Literature will open to the public here in its new premises. Its elegant spaces will house an extensive exhibition of Czech literature, an events hall, a literary café, study rooms, and offices. Wolkerova St. 12

Na Slamníku Pub

The establishment of this pub, located at the intersection of Wolkerova and Gotthardská Streets, was documented as far back as the 17th century and has traditionally served as a public house since that time. It’s one of the longest continuously operating pubs in Prague, with local regulars still outnumbering the tourists. During the Communist era, “Slamník” was a popular cultural centre for the alternative music scene. c

Wolkerova St.

Pod Kaštany Square

Friedrich Petschek Villa

Continuing straight to the end of Pod Kaštany Square on the righthand side, you’ll find the formal entrance to yet another Petschek villa – today the Embassy of the Russian Federation. The villa, designed in French Baroque style, is once again by Max Spielmann, the Petschek family architect. The huge complex spreads out over one hectare and includes a garden with pond. FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

14 Neo-Gothic Gate and Governor’s Summer Palace (Místodržitelský letohrádek)

An impressive, romantic mansion towers behind the Neo-Gothic entrance gate at the upper end of Stromovka. The yellow façade, in English Gothic Revival style, dates back to the early 19 th century, after the game park opened to the public in 1804. The building’s history, however, extends back to the 15th century; originally a hunting redoubt, it was gradually transformed into its current form, and only the prismatic tower remained. The building is unfortunately inaccessible; its terrace, however, is worth a look – from it, you get a beautiful view of Stromovka, Troja, and the Vltava River valley.

Governor’s Summer Palace

In the right-hand corner of the terrace, you’ll find a unique sundial dating back to11698. Shaped like a globe, it has a moving metal pointer and a red marble surface marked with the tropic lines and times. To determine the current time, aim the arrow at the sun and move the pointer so that it casts the smallest shadow (the same height as the pointer). Did it work? Mecseryho silnice / Road (named after former Prague Governor Karl Mecsery de Tsoor, who had it built in 1861)

Former tram depot

From 1898 to 1937, a small electric tram depot operated at the Royal Game Preserve. Part of the building’s walls was preserved during a modern renovation into the Vozovna Stromovka restaurant. Stromovka 17 Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola) Šlechta Restaurant 19 fishponds

16 18

Stromovka

The Royal Game Preserve (now Stromovka) was founded by Czech King Přemysl Otakar II in the 13th century as a fenced hunting preserve. The complex has undergone many changes over the centuries, the most significant of which took place in the 16th century, when Rudolf II

FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

ordered the preserve as well as the now-non-existent lake to be enlarged. 17

Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola)

An unassuming doorway marks the end of a 1,100m long water tunnel built in the late 16th century by order of Emperor Rudolf II. Water flowed through it, powered only by gravity, from the Vltava River near Old Town to the pond in Stromovka. This unique technical achievement, ovoid in shape, was bored under Letná Hill at a depth of about 45 m. 18

Former Šlechta Restaurant

The original 17 th -century Baroque summer palace was a formal mansion and even witnessed the imperial coronation celebration of Franz I. A restaurant has operated in the historical space since the 1920s. This popular destination is currently being renovated and is scheduled to reopen in 2020. 19

Fishponds

A kind of “island” was created in the middle of the original “Rudolfine” lake, which later became the only reminder of this former large body of water. Today it’s called Oak Knoll, and thanks to the new lake that was built in 2016, its banks are once again largely surrounded by water.

Oak Knoll in the Stromovka

The Royal Game Preserve was closed to the public until the early 19 th century – commoners were allowed to enter only on Easter. This changed in 1804 with an imperial decree by Franz I, which opened the preserve to the public. Za Elektrárnou St footbridge to Imperial Island (Císařský ostrov) ferry (year-round) Povltavská St U Trojského zámku St. 20 Zoo (Zoologická zahrada) j

p If you’ve got enough energy and want to extend your walk, we recommend visiting the Zoo (w zoopraha.cz), Troja Chateau (w ghmp.cz), or the Botanical Gardens (w botanicka.cz). Both the Zoo and the Botanical Gardens are located on hills which offer impressive views of the city.

FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA

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Holešovice A District Reborn

H O LE ŠOVI C E

Strossmayerovo Square, p. 14

This route is ideal for those who like to get enchanted by the raw charm of a modern city and the poetry of old industrial complexes. We’ll take you through one of the most exciting and rapidly transforming Prague districts. Holešovice was a former centre of manufacturing and business – here you’ll find distinctive factory complexes from the early 20th century remain, a former slaughterhouse, and docks. The factories no longer serve their original purpose, and many have been renovated, finding new lives as apartments, offices, and studios for young creatives, designers, and architects. Holešovice offers delightful surprises with its plethora of quirky cafés and bistros, alternative cultural spaces, and design shops. In short, it’s an area where creativity and innovation await you around every corner. H O LE ŠOVI C E

Route Description 1 Veletržní palác k (more information about the building on page 34) Heřmanova St.

Řezáčovo náměstí/Square w farmarsketrziste.cz

This small square squeezed between residential buildings is not only an excellent place to rest for a bit, but it‘s also a place where all kinds of events take place, including a popular farmers’ market on Saturday mornings, as well as pop-up stores with contemporary design, sustainable and slow fashion. Farského St.

Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor)

w husiteholesovice.cz

This imposing seven-story building for the Czechoslovak Hussite Church was completed in 1937. In addition to its unmistakable tower with chalice, there’s a marble-lined chapel and one of the largest columbariums (vaults for cinerary urns) in Europe, spread over two underground floors. 4

Strossmayerovo náměstí/Square

A busy transportation node and symbol of Holešovice, the east side of which is dominated by the Neo-Gothic Church of St Anthony of Padua dating back to the early 20 th century. Its two towers were modelled after those of Týn Cathedral on Old Town Square. A unique nativity scene is stored here, with figures dressed in native costumes of various Slavic nations.

Vnitroblock (photo Vojtěch Tesárek)

Antonínská St. nábřeží Kapitána Jaroše/Riverbank Bubenské nábřeží/Riverbank 5

Prague Market (Pražská tržnice) w prazska-trznice.cz

For nearly 100 years, this huge complex with Art Nouveau and NeoRenaissance elements functioned as a slaughterhouse, but today it’s

H O LE ŠOVI C E

undergoing rapid changes. You’ll find all kinds of things here: Hall  22 is the home of the largest produce market in Prague, as well as shops and stands with a variety of goods and groceries. Outside you’ll find stalls with various types of street food. The complex has several restaurants – of note are the highly-rated Vietnamese restaurant Trang An and the glam Asian fusion restaurant SaSaZu. Other buildings house the modern art gallery Trafo Gallery and Jatka78, a theatre and art space that focuses primarily on new circus and progressive theatre. Komunardů St. 6

Tusarova St

Vnitroblock w vnitroblock.cz

A popular location – this imposing industrial space is today a favourite meeting place over a cup of coffee as well as a multifunctional space for artistic or creatively oriented events. Komunardů St. - U Průhonu St.

Holešovice Town Brewery (Holešovický měšťanský pivovar) 7

The opening of this brewery in the late 19 th century led to the ruin of many smaller breweries. Many Praguers have tasted the local brew, as it was brewed here under the name „Měsťan” until 1998. Today, it’s a modern office complex combining Romanticism with Renaissance and Gothic elements.

Holešovice Town Brewery

Na Maninách St. Jankovcova St.

U Uranie St.

U Parního mlýna St.

8 The former steam mill on Jankovcova St. is another excellent example of a sensitive transformation of a historical building into a modern office complex. The mill, built in 1911, was the first automated flour mill in Prague, capable of grinding 200 tonnes of grain daily. Today the complex is a mix of designer offices for both multinational corporations and small start-ups.

H O LE ŠOVI C E

Holešovice Docks

Jankovcova St. 9

V Přístavu St.

Holešovice Docks, Prague Marina

The Holešovice docks, an important technical monument, is the only port in Prague which directly connects boat transport with rail and road. It’s definitely seen better days but remains worthy of a visit. The original buildings at the dock are in Art Nouveau style. The contrast between the rusting boats and the modern Prague Marina luxury apartment complex creates a memorable atmosphere.

H O LE ŠOVI C E

Jankovcova St. 10

Ogilvy

Originally the Prague Bakery and Soda Water Company, founded by Ferdinand Zátka, the building became the home of one of the largest advertising agencies in the world in 2003. In 2012, the building’s façade was redecorated in red and white battleship camouflage – a creative inspiration from the local nautical history.

H O LE ŠOVI C E

Přívozní St. 11

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DOX Center for Contemporary Art w dox.cz

The DOX Center was one of the pioneering projects that kicked off the transformation of Holešovice from an industrial to a creative district. The building is a rebuilt factory. Viewed from the street, the 42m-long wooden construction – the Gulliver airship – on the rooftop terrace is eye-catching; it’s used primarily for literary events. DOX prides itself on its independence and active contacts with the international art world; it focuses primarily on art projects that reflect current social issues.

H O LE ŠOVI C E

Osadní St.

Ortenovo náměstí/Square k

p At the intersection of Jankovcova and Plynární streets, you’ll find the legendary Cross Club and café. 12 Cross Club w crossclub.cz is a salute to Holešovice’s industrial character. Steampunk aesthetic, steel, and moving bolts, screws, and wheels form not only the essence of the outdoor space but also that of the cellar interiors of the renowned music club.

DOX

H O LE ŠOVI C E

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From Vinohrady to Žižkov Searching for Bohemian Prague 22

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

King George of Poděbrady Square with Church of the Most Sacred Heart p. 25

Žižkov is one of the most iconic Prague neighbourhoods outside of the historical centre. In the past, its mostly working-class population, lively pubs and cabarets, and hilly terrain under Vítkov Hill together cast an irresistible spell under which many an aspiring artist fell. Žižkov was home to two famous Jaroslavs – Hašek, author of the world-famous humorous novel The Fateful Adventures of the Good Soldier Švejk During the World War, and Seifert, a poet who is the sole Czech Nobel laureate for literature. Today Žižkov is undergoing rapid changes, but its heart remains purely bohemian. The walk will take you first to the Vinohrady district, which gets its name from real vineyards that were laid out on the hillsides here during the Middle Ages. Over time the grapevines were slowly replaced by buildings. In today’s Vinohrady, you‘ll find beautifully decorated Art Nouveau and Historicist buildings alongside austere Modernism in unusual colours and shapes. This winding route takes you through the streets of Žižkov leading to the TV transmission tower, a modern symbol of this exciting district. Rest and refresh yourself at one of the many local pubs that the district is known for. F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

Route Description 1 3

Náměstí Míru k y 2 Church of St. Ludmila Vinohrady Theatre

Náměstí Míru Square

There’s no doubt that náměstí Míru (Peace Square) is the heart of Vinohrady. The attractive square is a popular site for various holiday markets.

Church of St. Ludmila w ludmilavinohrady.cz

At its centre stands the Church of St. Ludmila, whose 60m high towers dominate the area. Church of St. Ludmila

Vinohrady Theatre w divadlonavinohradech.com

In stark contrast to its severe Neo-Gothic lines, the Vinohrady Theatre, to the left of the church, catches the eye with its swirling Art Nouveau lines. A few steps from the theatre is the National Building in Vinohrady, a monumental Neo-Renaissance edifice that’s home to cultural events and restaurants w nardum.cz Slezská St. Budečská St. Vinohradská St. 4

Pavilon w pavilon.cz

The building of the former Vinohrady Market has graced the neighbourhood since 1903. Behind its Neo-Renaissance façade lies a spacious interior dominated by the original iron support structure. Today Pavilon is an interior design shopping centre and café.

St.

U Tržnice St. Slezská St. Šumavská St. Moravská St. Dykova 5 Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor)

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor) w hs-vinohrady.cz

A Functionalist building comprising a ceremonial hall, a residential building, and a bell tower. It’s one of Czech architect Pavel Janák’s major projects. U Vodárny St. 6

Vinohradská water tower (Vinohradská vodárenská věž)

A seven-story tower with a Neo-Renaissance façade and staircase served its function until 1962. It’s said that in good weather, the statues of trumpeting angels can see as far as the Krkonoše Mountains, some 150 km away. Vinohradská water tower

Vinohradská St.

King George of Poděbrady Square (náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad) k y w srdcepane.cz 7

Arriving on the square, your eyes will be immediately drawn to the unusual monumental architecture of the Church of the Most Sacred Heart by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who was also the creative force behind the modern reconstruction of Prague Castle. The church, whose shape is meant to evoke that of Noah’s ark, is the most important modern religious building in Prague. The square is a frequent venue for a popular farmers’ market as well as other culinary and cultural events. Slavíkova St. 8

Švehla Dormitory (Švehlova kolej)

The imposing Švehla Dormitory building is evidence of Žižkov’s rich student life. The dormitory was built shortly after the founding of the Czechoslovak Republic in 1918 in national Art Deco style with elements of Rondo-Cubism. It still functions as a home for Charles University students today. F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

Zvonařova St. 9

Škroupovo náměstí/Square

You might find it hard to believe, but this square measures 150 m (492 ft) in diameter. It entered the Prague history books as the site of the events of the first authorized dissident demonstration in December 1988. Václav Havel gave his first public political speech here, demanding the release of political prisoners. Pospíšilova St. Fibichova St. 10 Žižkov Television Tower and Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov 10

Žižkov Television Transmitter w towerpark.cz

A triple tower resembling a spaceship ready for launch is an unmistakable dominant feature of the Prague skyline. In addition to technical equipment, the transmitter tower also houses a luxury single suite hotel, a restaurant with bar and café, and an observation deck with an amazing view of Prague. The transmitter’s columns are adorned with bizarre figures of babies by sculptor David Černý Old Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov Directly under the tower, the Mahler Gardens hide their secrets. At one time, a Jewish cemetery was located here, parts of which are still clearly visible. The old Jewish cemetery in Žižkov was originally part of a plague burial ground of the Prague Ghetto, but over time it transformed into a proper cemetery which served the community for over a century. Žižkov Television Transmitter and Old Jewish Cementery in Žižkov

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

Fibichova St. 11

International Telephone Exchange Building

The monumental International Telephone and Telegraph Exchange building is one of the most interesting buildings in Žižkov. It was built shortly after 1921 by architect Bohumír Kozák. Its two towers and other decorative elements are typical examples of Czech national Decorativism. Kubelíkova St. 12

Palác Akropolis w palacakropolis.cz

The cultural heart of Žižkov, Akropolis has a restaurant and multi-genre programme of both established and rising stars. Artist František Skála and architect/playwright David Vávra designed the eclectic interior. Víta Nejedlého St. Vlkova St. 13

Sladkovského náměstí/Square

The Church of St. Prokop dominates this picturesque square at the foot of “upper Žižkov” and, along with the nearby Lipanská tram stop, forms one of a number of Žižkov’s focal points. The Neo-Gothic church was built at the turn of the 20 th century. Seifertova St., the main artery of the Žižkov district, is named after Jaroslav Seifert, outstanding Czech poet and Nobel laureate. He not only lived here, but also studied at the nearby grammar school. Seifertova St. 14

Milíčova St. Štítného St.

Žižkov Theatre of Jára Cimrman w zdjc.cz

The Žižkov Theatre occupies an unassuming building at number 520. It has a varied past. The building has been used as a theatre, a chapel, and a renowned dance hall. For many seasons now, however, a theatre group performs here, dedicated to spreading the word of fictitious Czech Renaissance man and unrecognized genius Jára Cimrman. Štítného St. 15

Kostnické náměstí/Square

Kostnické Square is probably the most picturesque square in Žižkov. It gets its name from the German city of Kostnice (Konstanz), where the church council met in 1415 and sentenced Czech church reformer Jan Hus to death by burning. The name refers to the connection between the Žižkov district and the Hussite events of the 15th century. From the square, there’s an interesting view of Vítkov Hill and the dominant bronze equestrian statue of Jan Žižka of Trocnov. Orebitská St. Husitská St. Husitská St. along with its surroundings is a memorable, yet slightly dark place in Žižkov. During the Middle Ages, gallows were located here.

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

U Památníku St. 16 National Monument on Vítkov 16 National Memorial on Vítkov (Národní památník na Vítkově) w nm.cz

A dense network of walking and bike paths cloaks Vítkov Hill; take any of them up the hill to the memorial. This monument, with its remarkable Art Deco interior, was originally built to honour the Czechoslovak Legionnaires who fought abroad during World War I

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

National Memorial on Vítkov

and as a mausoleum in which the first Czechoslovak president, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, was to be entombed. Today the National Museum’s military history collection is on display here. Together with one of the largest equestrian statues in the world (depicting the legendary Hussite leader Jan Žižka, after whom the entire surrounding district is named), the Vítkov Memorial is one of the visual dominants of the city. The roof, accessible by paying a fee, offers a panoramic view of the city.

F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV

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From Letnรก to Old Town Head Back in Time to a Hidden Garden 32

FRO M LETNร TO O LD TOWN

The Metronome

The walk creates both a literal and imaginary bridge between two worlds that, while different, still have much in common. It connects two very different Prague districts and two iconic buildings of Prague’s National Gallery: the Functionalist Trade Fair Palace (Veletržní palác), with the modern art collection, and the ancient Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia, in which the medieval art collection is displayed. From Holešovice, your route takes you through Letná Park to the Metronome, a modern dominant of the left bank of the Vltava and across the bridge to the northernmost end of Old Town. Wind your way through the tiny lanes of this part of the city, which most visitors haven’t discovered yet and which will envelop you in the authentic atmosphere of old Prague. Your destination is the Convent of St. Agnes and its recently renovated gardens. FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

Popis trasy k Veletržní palác 1 Trade Fair Palace (Veletržní palác) - National Gallery in Prague w ngprague.cz

The first Functionalist building in Prague, originally intended for trade fairs, was built in 1928 and was at the time the largest building of its type in the world – even Le Corbusier was an admirer. Today it’s home to the National Gallery’s unique collection of modern and contemporary art. The collection contains works by some of the most illustrious names in art – Pablo Picasso, Auguste Renoir, Vincent van Gogh, and Gustav Klimt among others. The gallery’s monumental interior, reminiscent of multiple decks of an ocean liner, is itself worth a look. Trade Fair Palace © Národní galerie v Praze

Heřmanova St.

Františka Křížka St.

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

Bio Oko w biooko.net

A popular single-screen art cinema that dates back to 1940. The cinema’s main floor is occupied with a motley crew of seats: sun loungers, beanbags, an auto body, and more, the composition of which was created by renowned Czech designer Maxim Velčovský. The bar and café are popular meeting spots. Milady Horákové St. 3

Letná Square (Letenské náměstí)

Worth noting along the right side of the square is the Neo-Renaissance Letná Water Tower, which is now used by the local children and youth centre for its activities. Also notable is the luxury (in its time) Functionalist reinforced concrete apartment block, nicknamed Molochov (built from 1936-1938). On the left side, note the imposing Constructivist Ministry of the Interior building with its tiled façade (built 1935-1939). Nad Štolou St.

Letohradská St.

Muzejní St.

4 National Technical Museum (Národní technické muzeum) and the National Museum of Agriculture (Národní zemědělské muzeum) w ntm.cz w nzm.cz

These identical monumental Functionalist structures were built together between 1938 and 1942. The original concept called for a single monumental building, but it ran up against construction regulations and, in particular, gradually progressing disagreements between the two institutions. In the end, two separate buildings were built, separated by Muzejni Street. The main entrances of both institutions face Letná Park – from this view, the buildings’ identical appearances are obvious. Kostelní St. 5 Letenský zámeček (Letná Mansion) built in the style of Italian Renaissance villas, now functions as a restaurant. From 1891 to 1916, the upper station of the Letná funicular, which ran here from the river, stood not far from here. Connected to the funicular was the station for the first electric tram in Prague, which was built on the occasion of the Provincial Jubilee Exhibition in 1891 by Czech inventor and pioneer of electrification, František Křižík; he then operated it as a private entrepreneur until 1900. Today in front of the chateau, you’ll find a very popular beer garden with an incredible view of the city centre and the Vltava River.

Letenské sady/Gardens 6 The Metronome occupies a symbolic spot on the map of Prague. It was directly on this spot that a gigantic monument to Joseph Stalin overlooked the city. It was dynamited in 1962, many years after his death. The Metronome (official name: The Time Machine, by Vratislav Novák) appeared on Letná in 1991 and symbolises the impermanence of power and the inexorable progression of time. Today, the entire area around the Metronome is a haven for skateboarders.

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

down to nábřeží E. Beneše Riverbank Dvořákovo nábřeží/Riverbank 7

Čechův most/Bridge

Intercontinental and President Hotels

Both hotels are examples of the local variety of Brutalist architecture. The Intercontinental’s Presidential Suite, measuring 154 sqm, with a panoramic view and its own sauna, used to be by far the most luxurious place to stay in Prague.

Dušní St. – 8 Church of Sts. Simon and Jude U Milosrdných St.

8 The Church of Sts. Simon and Jude (Kostel sv. Šimona a Judy) w fok.cz is proud of its rich musical tradition, including visits

by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Joseph Haydn. The church has remained true to its musical roots and is today used as a concert venue.

Church of Sts. Simon and Jude 9 U Milosrdných St. leads around the oldest wing of the hospital and monastery of the Brothers of Charity, who have run the hospital since 1620. In 1847, the first operation performed under anesthesia in the entire Austro-Hungarian Empire took place here.

Another building on the riverfront is the Na Františku city hospital. It was founded here around 1360 and has been in continuous operation since that time. It’s one of the oldest medical facilities in central Europe.

Kozí St. “Kozí plácek” (“Goat Green”) Ve Stínadlech Lane

U Obecního dvora St.

Over the course of its existence, the Obecní dvůr (Municipal Yard) has served a number of functions, primarily business-related. The first recorded use was to stable horses and carriages, and later served as a royal firehouse. The House of the Censors (No. 798/5) was the actual location of the censors’ offices in the 19 th century. House no. 799/7 was occupied by the famous dynasty of Czech painters, the Mánes family.

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

Ve Stínadlech Lane

On the right, directly across from the Municipal Yard, walk through Ve Stínadlech Lane. Its modern name refers to the title of a novel by Jaroslav Foglar, popular Czech author of children’s adventure books, who set many of his stories in this neighbourhood of mysterious old houses and shadowy nooks. Haštalské náměstí/Square 12 Church of St. Castulus and rectory 14 ossuary 15 old hospital

school

12 The Church of St. Castulus (Kostel sv. Haštala), founded in the late 12 th century, is the only church dedicated to this saint in the country. 13

School and rectory

Since its founding, it also had a school and a rectory with a garden, surrounded by massive walls – today the building is used by various religious groups and organizations. 14

Ossuary

There used to be a cemetery around the church, its presence marked by a cross in the mosaic pavement; even today the former ossuary with a painted tombstone on the wall still stands. 15

Old hospital

At the corner of Řásnovka Street stands an unusual rounded corner building – the former hospital of the Knights of the Cross with the Red Star, the only originally Bohemian order and the only men’s order founded by a woman, princess Agnes of Bohemia. The original building was demolished in 1965 and replaced with a new building that stands on the original hospital foundations and copies its ground plan. This entire area was a neighbourhood of the poorest Praguers, full of narrow streets with crooked houses and appalling sanitary conditions. Most of this district was demolished during the urban redevelopment that took place in the late 19 th century.

Note the varied levels of sidewalks and entrances in the area around Kozí náměstí. This section was spared during the „asanace“ (razing and redevelopment) of the Jewish Quarter at the turn of the 19th and 20th c. and retains its character. Ve Stínadlech Lane, former school and rectory at Haštal Square FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

Ministry of Industry and Trade Building and Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia

Řásnovka St. 16 Řásnovka St. was originally named Schneck Street, after the manufacturer of popular playing cards. As the word Schneck is German for snail, irreverent Praguers kept referring to this street using various words for snails and slugs, until officials intervened and gave it its final official name, after the lord of Řásnov, owner of one of the buildings. In the olden days, the lane was also called At the Kings of the Cesspits, referring to the modest dwellings of poor labourers, knackers (those authorized to remove and dispose of carcasses), and even executioners who lived here.

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

The most characteristic feature of this magnificent building is the glass dome on the roof. It’s especially beautiful after dark – it remains illuminated all night.

Klášterská St. 17

Ministry of Industry and Trade

The impressive ministry building, by architect Josef Fanta, was finished in 1934 with a record-high budget. It’s no wonder: the building, whose style was already anachronistic when it was built, features over 120 sculptures on its façade, plus a large number of other decorative elements. One of Josef Fanta’s other memorable designs was for the entrance hall and beautiful Art Nouveau café at Prague’s Main Train Station, formerly known as Wilson Station.

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

Na Františku St. 18 Garden Behind the Churches (Zahrada za svatyněmi) 19 North Gate Garden (Zahrada při severní bráně) 20 Convent of St Agnes of Bohemia (Klášter sv. Anežky České) 18

Garden Behind the Churches (Zahrada za svatyněmi)

The convent gardens underwent an extensive renovation in 2016. The Garden Behind the Churches is now accessible via two new garden gates, and 19 the North Gate Garden (Zahrada při severní bráně) through a large Baroque gate from the riverbank side. The formerly inaccessible gardens are now home to two dozen works of contemporary sculpture by leading Czech artists. 20 Convent of St Agnes of Bohemia (Klášter sv. Anežky České) w ngprague.cz

The convent, one of the oldest and most important Gothic buildings in Prague, bears the name of its founder, Přemyslid princess St Agnes (1211–1282). During her lifetime, she built an extensive and artistically richly decorated convent with a royal burial ground, her own tomb,

FRO M LETNÁ TO O LD TOWN

and several churches. When the convent was closed in 1782, it was already under threat of demolition because of its severely dilapidated condition. Thankfully this never took place. On the contrary – it was declared a national cultural monument and underwent gradual renovation throughout the 20 th century. Today it houses the National Gallery’s collection of medieval art (highly recommended – this unique exhibition is often unjustly overlooked, probably due to its location off the beaten tourist path). Visitors can stroll through the gardens and take a self-guided tour of the ground floor of the convent free of charge. There’s also a version of the tour for kids. p Although the convent gardens are open year-round, they close in inclement weather. Should the complex not be accessible via the garden gates, head from Na Františku St to Kozí St. and U Milosrdných St. – the narrow Anežská Lane then leads to the main entrance to the complex.

Gardens of St. Agnes Convent

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4 Trade Fair Palace National Technical Museum, National Agriculture Museum

Letná Chateau Metronome Ministry of Industry and Trade Convent of St. Agnes of Bohemia

17 19 8

9 11 13 10

14 12

Řásnovka

Náměstí Republiky

Střešovice and Dejvice From Dreamy Villas to Socialist Skyscrapers 44

STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

Jaroslav Vondrák Villa, p. 49

An extraordinary experience full of contrasts awaits you. Střešovice and Dejvice both feature some captivating architecture, especially if you’re fond of imaginative 20th century buildings. Many artists settled in the Střešovice villa district. Painters and sculptors had their studios here, but even wealthy businessmen built their family homes here. The peaceful atmosphere of the leafy residential district can be felt to this day. Dejvice, on the other hand, is completely different. It was established in the capital of the new Czechoslovak state as a luxury residential district based on a comprehensive modern urban plan. Monumental buildings went up around the central Vítězné náměstí (Victory Square), most of which still stand today. The Dejvice area has always been rather prominent; today it’s also known as a centre of student life. STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

Route Description Ořechovka k

stairs to Müller Villa

Müller Villa w muzeumprahy.cz

No fan of modern architecture should miss Müller Villa, architect Adolf Loos’ masterpiece, dating from 1928 – 1930. At first glance, the villa intrigues with its severe exterior. Once inside, a fascinating, complex interior space is revealed. Individual floors and spaces flow into one another in the dynamic spirit of Loos’ “Raumplan” philosophy. Loos created a unique, luxurious, and timeless home that was ahead of its time.

a Tours of the villa are available only with a guide and must be reserved in advance at w mullerovavila.cz Villa Müller © Muzeum hlavního města Prahy

Nad Hradním vodojemem St. Sibeliova St. 3

Pod Kostelem St.

Church of St. Norbert (Kostel sv. Norberta)

Overlooking Sibeliova St. is the Church of St. Norbert, a NeoRomanesque three-aisled basilica from the late 19th century. During this time, the district of Střešovice became independent from the Strahov Premonstratensians; however, the church retained its link to the founder of the Premonstratensian order and church patron, St. Norbert. 46

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Church of St. Norbert

Sokol building on the left side of Sibeliova St. is a former centre

of social life. 5

The Functionalist Evangelical church is situated at Před

Bateriemi Square.

If you continue straight up U Páté Baterie St from Pred Bateriemi Square, you’ll come to another interesting building – the Rothmayer Villa. 6

Rothmayer Villa

The two-story villa of renowned Czech architect Otto Rothmayer and his wife Božena, a textile artist and designer, is an example of finely detailed architecture inspired by cubes and cylinders. náměstí Před bateriemi/Square U Šesté baterie St. Pod bateriemi St. Nad Hradním vodojemem St. 7

Střešovice belfry

Next to the steps leading to Střešovice St. stands the Střešovice belfry, built at the end of the 19 th century, a remnant of old Střešovice.

STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

Střešovická St. 8

Na Pěkné vyhlídce St.

Na Dračkách St.

Václav Špála Villa

About halfway down Na Dračkách St., at number 5, noted Czech painter and graphic artist Václav Špála built a villa and studio. The house was designed by architect Otakar Novotný, who specialized in red-brick, Dutch-type architecture. Pod Vyhlídkou St. Na Ořechovce St. 9

Cukrovarnická St.

Lomená St.

Bohumil Kafka Villa

The walled villa of Bohumil Kafka, one of the most important Czech sculptors, is of special interest for its glass extension, where the artist had his studio. Architect Pavel Janák used austere red brick for the exterior, which he enlivened with decorative lintels, cornices, and small geometric elements.

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Lomená Street

Západní St.

Vila Jaroslava Vondráka Jaroslav Vondrák Villa 10

Architect Jaroslav Vondrák designed and built his own villa, which dominates the western side of Macharovo Square, in the national Rondo-Cubist style, typical for Czechoslovak architecture of the 1920s. The style is easily recognizable because of its use of the contrasting forms of cylinders and cubes. Vondrák designed a number of other buildings in Ořechovka, including the nearby Central Building and the Ořechovka cinema. Na Ořechovce St. 11 Ořechovka Central Building (Ústřední budova Ořechovka)

The Ořechovka neighbourhood was planned as a homogenous residential area in the style of an English “garden city”. The focal point STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

of the central square was a building by the aforementioned architect Vondrák that housed the shopping and social facilities for the area. It included a large theatre and dance hall, cinema, restaurants and a café. The building, in dire need of renovation, is notable for its Art Nouveau and Cubist-influenced architecture. Spojená St. 12 Dělostřelecká St. and Klidná St. together create a small neighbourhood of standardized houses built in Rondo-Cubist style. This “national style” replaced the sharp edges of Cubism after the foundation of the new Czechoslovak republic. Its roundness and colours call to mind traditional Slavic motifs.

Dělostřelecká St. 13

Špálova St.

Na Ořechovce St.

U Laboratoře St.

The complex of buildings that you’ll find on U Laboratoře St. is the former Sugar Research Institute, built in 1920 in the most fashionable style of the time, Art Deco. It’s now the seat of the Czech Academy of Sciences Institute of Physics. Cukrovarnická St.

Public Transport Museum (Muzeum Městské hromadné dopravy) w dpp.cz 14

You’ll find some truly unique items on display at the Public Transport Museum. The oldest tram vehicle here is a horse-drawn tram. Many of the exhibits are connected with the brilliant Czech inventor and pioneer of electrification František Křižík. Patočkova St. 15

Pevnostní St.

Pod Hradbami St.

Traub Villa

The villa of industrialist Edmund Traub is a rare example of German Modernism in Prague – its foundation is a reinforced concrete structure and the villa itself features interesting stone siding. It was completed in 1929. Dělostřelecká St. 16

Villa at Dělostřelecká St. No. 1

At one time, the villa at this address was the most important in Prague – President Václav Havel lived here with his first wife Olga from 1995. The second First Lady, Dagmar Havlová, also lived in the “presidential villa” for a while. Pod Hradbami St. 17

Svatovítská St.

Wuchterlova St.

Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor)

w dejvickysbor-ccsh.cz

A short detour takes you to a small picturesque square, the focal point of which is a fountain with life-sized statues of horses, the work of sculptor Michal Gabriel. Dominating the square, however, is the majestic Hus Congregational House. This building, dating to 1928, is 50

STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

Hus Congregational House

remarkable for its Historicist character – unusual for the period – and Neo-Gothic façade. A relief over the front entrance depicts master Jan Hus saying goodbye to friends, the work of sculptor Josef Kotyz; in the upper part of the façade, there’s a niche with a chalice, a Hussite symbol. A golden sun on a long iron pole adorns the roof’s peak. Kafkova St. 18

Svatovítská St.

Vítězné náměstí/Square

The focal point of Dejvice, Vítězné Square has always been known by its nickname – Kulaťák (“Roundie”) – but its official name has changed many times. The square, designed by Antonín Engel, was not built entirely to plan, but even so, it has a monumental effect. Some of the buildings belong to the military staff of the Czech Army, including a monument to the Czechoslovak soldiers of World War II. Space was reserved on the square for the campus of the Czech Technical University, whose gradual construction took place after 1960. The last building, however, was completed only recently. STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

A Communist symbol – a fivepointed star made of rubyred glass – originally crowned the tower. An ingenious telescoping mechanism enabled the top part to be lowered inside the tower so that the star could be cleaned regularly – usually at night so that its absence wouldn’t prompt speculation. Later, a green star replaced the red one. These days, however, the tower’s tip is left unadorned.

Zikova St. 19 Church of St. Adalbert (Kostel sv. Vojtěcha) in Dejvice is a focal point of an extensive complex that is the seat of the Charles University Catholic Theological Faculty. The main entrance to a spacious three-aisled basilica with a distinctive dome and two towers is located on Kolejní Street. The church’s space served in the past as a recording studio as well as a meeting hall for political discussions. After the Velvet Revolution, the building was returned to the church and serves its original purpose once again..

Studentská St.

National Technical Library (Národní technická knihovna) w techlib.cz is one of the newest buildings in Prague. It 20

was built as part of the Czech Technical University campus and has a number of special features. A group of young architects headed by Roman Brychta designed a building shaped like a rounded square measuring 70 x 70 meters, with surroundings adapted for study as well as relaxation. The modern, playful interior is decorated with hundreds of comics-style drawings by Romanian artist Dan Perjovschi.

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Hotel International © Libor Sváček

Flemingovo náměstí (Fleming Square) 21

Nikoly Tesly St.

Nikola Tesla monument

The post-modern bronze monument to Nikola Tesla is a tribute to this genius scientist, physicist, and inventor who studied in Prague for one semester. The statue portrays an electrical discharge. Jugoslávských partyzánů St.

Zelená j

22 The hotel International w internationalprague.cz is a building on a grand scale, the likes of which are found nowhere else in the country. It was built in the 1950s in Soviet Social Realist style. The construction of the hotel was closely connected with the ruling Communist party and the former military leaders. It was originally intended to serve as a private luxury hotel for Soviet advisors and prominent military officers. During its construction, it was determined that neither the army nor the delegations would ever use so much accommodation space, and the building became “just” a luxury hotel. Despite its clear references to its Moscow influence, the central tower is also reminiscent of the style’s original inspiration, the American skyscraper.

STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

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Title: Prague:walks 2 Text: Prague City Tourism Photographs: Prague City Tourism, Richard Horák, Eva Neuman, Kateřina Pavlitová Maps: © IPR Praha Design and Layout: Touch Branding s.r.o. Print: All 365 a.s. Prague 3/2019 2nd edition Not for sale

STŘ E ŠOVI C E AN D D EJVI C E

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W th Prague C ty Tour sm maps and gu des you fee r ght at home n Prague Prague.eu Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. Prague.eu

Prague.eu

Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist:

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. Prague.eu q Na Můstku, Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m q Old Town Hall, Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Prague.eu

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centers, where we‘ll also be happy to assist:

Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel right at home in Prague.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. Clementinum q Mariánské náměstí 5, Prague 1 w www.klementinum.com An extensive complex, originally a Jesuit College. The guided tour includes the Astronomical Tower and Baroque Library Hall. The Mirrored Chapel distinctively beset with mirrors is used as a concert hall. C3 The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) q Červená st., Prague 1 w www.kehilaprag.cz Among the oldest and most valuable European and World Jewish monuments, the oldest synagogue in Central Europe. The early Gothic, late 13th century building is still the temple for Prague’s Jewish community. D2

Prague’s Parks and Gardens

The National Gallery in Prague (Národní galerie v Praze):

Prague Castle Gardens (Zahrady Pražského hradu) q Prague Castle, Prague 1 w www.hrad.cz Historically most notable is the Royal Garden from 1534, with its singing fountain, which belongs among the finest Renaissance water fountains in Europe. From the Southern gardens, stretching beneath the Castle frontage, you get breathtaking views over Prague’s historical centre. C2 The Palace Gardens under Prague Castle (Palácové zahrady pod Pražským hradem) q Valdštejnská 12 – 14, Prague 1 w www.palacove-zahrady.cz On the southern slopes below Prague Castle is a showpiece complex of interrelated historical gardens with rich architectural decor, lookout terraces and pavilions set among the vegetation to charming effect. C2

Veletržní Palace (Veletržní palác) q Dukelských hrdinů 47, Prague 7 Showing: The Arts in Czechoslovakia 1918–1989 (from 28 Oct 2018) D2

Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) q Hradčanské nám. 15, Prague 1 Exhibition Hall C2

Salm Palace (Salmovský palác) q Hradčanské nám. 2, Prague 1 Showing: The TBA21 Contemporary Arts Centre (from 6 Jun 2018) C3 Kinský Palace (Palác Kinských) q Staroměstské nám. 12, Prague 1 Exhibition Hall D3 p More information at w www.ngprague.cz (we recommend keeping an eye on the websites in case of exhibition and venue changes)

Petřín park (Petřínské sady) q Prague 1 – Lesser Town Petřín Hill is one of the largest urban expanses of greenery and its slopes are an oasis of calm in the centre of Prague. Atop stands Petřín lookout tower, which offers an enchanting view of the whole city. C3/B3

The Prague City Gallery (Galerie hlavního města Prahy):

Troja Chateau (Trojský zámek) q U Trojského zámku 4/1, Prague 7 Showing: The architecture and decor of Chateau Troja C1 Bílek Villa q Mickiewiczova 1, Prague 6 Showing: The Studio of František Bílek, Czech symbolist sculptor and graphic artist C2

The House at the Stone Bell (Dům U Kamenného zvonu) q Staroměstské náměstí 13, Prague 1 Exhibition Hall D3 Municipal Library (2nd floor) q Mariánské náměstí 1, Prague 1 Exhibition Hall D3 House of Photography (Dům fotografie) q Revoluční 5, Prague 1 Exhibition Hall D2 p More information at w www.ghmp.cz Picture Gallery of Prague Castle (Obrazárna Pražského hradu) q Prague Castle – II. nádvoří, Prague 1 w www.kulturanahrade.cz Showing: Paintings from the Castle collections C2

Municipal House (Obecní dům) q náměstí Republiky 5, Prague 1 w www.obecnidum.cz Early 20th century Prague Art Nouveau at its best, the work of major artists of the period headed by none less than the renowned painter Alfons Mucha. The Smetana Concert Hall dominates the stunning interior. D3

The Strahov picture gallery (Strahovská obrazárna) q Strahovské nádvoří 1, Prague 1 w www.strahovskyklaster.cz Showing: A collection of Czech and European art from Gothic to romanticism B3

Powder Tower (Prašná brána) q Na Příkopě, Prague 1 w www.muzeumprahy.cz A landmark of late Gothic Prague, the start of the so-called Royal route to Prague Castle. It used to be a gunpowder warehouse. D3

DOX – Centre for Contemporary Art q Poupětova 1, Prague 7 w www.dox.cz Presenting contemporary art, architecture and design E1

prague.eu/en/cafés

Vyšehrad – V Pevnosti, Prague 2 w www.praha-vysehrad.cz According to ancient legend the oldest seat of Czech princes, in fact the fortress dates back to the 10th century. Its parks encompass architectural treasures like the Romanesque Rotunda of St Martin, the neo-Gothic church of Sts Peter and Paul, the National Cemetery and other places of note. D4

Guide to Prague cafés

Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně) q náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad, Prague 3 w www.srdcepane.cz The prime 20th century Czech sacral building by the Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik. The distinctive and monumental edifice is inspired by ancient Christian designs. E3 House at the Black Madonna (Dům U Černé Matky Boží) q Ovocný trh 19, Prague 1 w www.upm.cz The pinnacle of Czech Cubist architecture, exceptional for its façade and Cubist layout design, which goes right into the interior. Also houses a permanent exhibition of Czech Cubism. D3 Müller’s villa (Müllerova vila) q Nad Hradním vodojemem 14, Prague 6 w www.muzeumprahy.cz The villa is a world masterpiece of architectural avant-garde. The outside seems curtly functionalist, the internal layout being more remarkable, ‘flowing’ one into another. B2 The Dancing House (Tančící dům) q Jiráskovo náměstí 6, Prague 2 w www.tancici-dum.cz This exceptional building is a pillar of modern Prague architecture; Inspired by the dancing skill of that famous movie couple – Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. C3

Franciscan garden (Františkánská zahrada) q Jungmannovo náměstí, Prague 1 The cosy green nook in the heart of the city invites you to stop and take a breath when walking around Prague. The local herbaceous beds are a treat. D3 Rieger’s park (Riegrovy sady) q Prague 2 – Vinohrady This park, over a hundred years old, has many half-hid nooks, wooded glades, open leas and uncommon vistas of Prague. E3/D3 Vyšehrad park (Vyšehradské sady) q Prague 2 – Vyšehrad A magical place of myths and legends, with romantic hideaways and beautiful vistas of the Vltava River. D4 Royal Park (Královská obora) – Stromovka q Prague 7 – Bubeneč The sprawling park covers an area of 95 ha in close proximity to Holešovice Exhibition grounds. It is the ideal place for romantic walks, picnics, sport and leisure. D1,D2/C1,C2

Vltava, and life on the river

Letná park (Letenské sady) q Prague 7 – Holešovice An extensive park with large grassy areas, mature trees and a varied mix of tree species and a long plane-tree avenue, providing a nice place to sit and great city views. D2/C2

Prague’s Riverbanks (Náplavky) w www.prazskenaplavky.cz Prague’s riverbanks are some of its favourite promenades, and during the summer they become the centres of Prague’s cultural life and leisure-time activities.

Sightseeing cruises River Cruises offer an unforgettable view of the historic centre of Prague and many novel experiences.

The National Museum historical building (Historická budova Národního muzea) q Václavské náměstí 68, Prague 1 Closed for refurbishment until 28 Oct 2018 D3

Rental boats and pedalos Popular pedalos or boats are an interesting and romantic alternative way to spend summer leisure time in Prague.

Museum & Galleries

The National Museum (Národní muzeum):

The National Museum new building (Nová budova Národního muzea) q Vinohradská 1, Prague 1 Showing: “Noah’s Ark” natural history exposition D3 Czech Museum of Music (České muzeum hudby) q Karmelitská 2/4, Prague 1 Showing: Man – Instrument – Music (400 historical musical instruments, incl. the pianoforte played by W. A. Mozart) C3 Lapidary (Lapidárium) q Výstaviště 422, Prague 7 Showing: The monuments of stone carving in Bohemia, 11–19th centuries D1 p For other National Museum exhibits, see w www.nm.cz The City of Prague Museum (Muzeum hlavního města Prahy) q Na Poříčí 52, Prague 8 w www.muzeumprahy.cz Showing: The Langweil model of Prague, the history of Prague from prehistory to the Middle Ages and the present day D2 The House at the Golden Ring (Dům U Zlatého prstenu) q Týnská 6, Prague 1 Showing: Prague under Charles IV (a burgeoning European Medieval City) D3 Museum Kampa q U Sovových mlýnů 2, Prague 1 w www.museumkampa.cz Showing: A collection of Central European modern art and artworks by pioneering abstract painter František Kupka, and Czech Cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund. C3

The Prague Steamboat Company (Pražská paroplavební společnost) q Rašínovo embankment and Čechův bridge wharf w www.paroplavba.cz – also trips to the ZOO (April – September) C3;D2

Jewish Museum in Prague (Židovské muzeum v Praze) q Maiselova 15, Prague 1 w www.jewishmuseum.cz One of the oldest and continuously run Jewish museums in the world, documenting the history, traditions and customs of the Jewish population in the Czech lands. Also under the Museum’s care are: The Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov), Spanish synagogue (Španělská synagoga), Pinkas synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga), Ceremonial Hall (Obřadní síň), Maisel synagogue (Maiselova synagoga), Klausen synagogue (Klausová synagoga), and the Robert Guttmann Gallery. D2

wine

vineyards, wine bars, restaurants, shops

Evropská vodní doprava – Prague Boats q Čechův bridge wharf, w www.evd.cz D2 Prague Prague

Venice (Pražské Benátky) q Judita, Čertovka, Mánes and Four Seasons wharfs w www.prazskebenatky.cz C3;C3;C2 and C3 Prague ferry steamers (Parníky Praha) q Dvořákovo embankment, Na Františku w www.parniky-praha.eu D2 Jazzboat q Čechův bridge wharf w www.jazzboat.cz – an exceptional floating jazz club D2

design

Žižkov TV tower (Žižkovská televizní věž) q Mahlerovy sady 1, Prague 3 w www.towerpark.cz Without a doubt towering over Prague at 216 m, the tallest building in the city. Climbing the tower’s exterior are 10 giant baby statues by David Černý. E3

Prague ferryboats Prague ferries are the greatest way to cross between Prague’s right and left banks. F

Convent of St Agnes of Bohemia (Klášter sv. Anežky České) q U Milosrdných 17, Prague 1 Showing: Medieval Art in Bohemia and Central Europe 1200–1550 D2

Schwarzenberg Palace (Schwarzenberský palác) q Hradčanské nám. 2, Prague 1 Showing: The Baroque in Bohemia (till August 2018) C3

Wallenstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada) q Letenská st., Prague 1 A geometrically set out early Baroque garden with monumental sala terrena and artificial grotto with a distinctive atmosphere. Free ranging peacocks accompany your walk. C2 Vrtba Garden (Vrtbovská zahrada) q Karmelitská 25, Prague 1 w www.vrtbovska.cz One of the most important and finest Baroque gardens, though compact, architecturally original on its awkward slope, with sculptural artistic merit that makes it a garden of European importance. C3 Vojanovy sady gardens q U Lužického semináře 17, Prague 1 A little mysterious and unjustly overlooked. The pensiveness of Vojanovy sady has lingered since the Middle Ages, when it was a monastery garden. C3 The Church of Our Lady before Týn (Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem) q Staroměstské náměstí, Prague 1 w www.tyn.cz One of the most impressive Gothic sacral buildings in Prague with an extensive gallery of Gothic, Renaissance and early Baroque works, e.g. fine altarpieces by Karel Škréta and the tomb of astronomer Tycho Brahe. D3

Jewish

Cafés

map

Prague.eu

Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

prague.eu/design

Airport access: Hlavní nádraží (y C) j Airport Express, trip length approx. 33 minutes Nádraží Veleslavín (y A) j 119, trip length approx. 17 minutes Zličín (y B) j 100, trip length approx. 16 minutes Anděl (y B) j 191, trip length approx. 51 minutes Night bus j 910

then and now

design

walks

Prague

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague.

A city of magic and romance, a gem of architecture down the centuries; full of captivating ambience, resounding with the melodies of great composers, but also a modern metropolis pulsating with life; Prague is all these, one of the finest cities in the world. In 1992 its historical centre was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist. Five walks off the beaten path to places known and unknown 1

Practical information:

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m prague.eu/design

Czech design shops, studios and showrooms

Emergency phone line: 112 Czech Republic dialling code: +420 x Václav Havel Airport Prague (Letiště Václava Havla Praha) w www.prg.aero, 30 minutes from city centre

Prague.eu

Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

design

Czech design shops, studios and showrooms

Public transport w www.dpp.cz z +420 296 19 18 17 Tourist passes for 24 (t CZK 110) or 72 hours (t CZK 310) Municipal Health centre Prague (Městská poliklinika Praha) q Spálená 12, Prague 1 z +420 222 924 295 D3 24 hour Pharmacy q Palackého 5, Prague 1 z +420 224 946 982 D3 Currency: Czech koruna (CZK); 1 euro = approx. 26 CZK coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 CZK banknotes: 100, 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 CZK p Most shops, restaurants, hotels and other services accept major international payment cards. Cash available via a dense network of ATMs.

walks

Main Post Office q Jindřišská 14, Prague 1 z +420 954 211 000 w www.ceskaposta.cz daily 2:00–24:00 D3

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel right at home in Prague.

Public holidays in the Czech Republic

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Public toilets – in all Metro stations, usual opening hours: Mon–Fri 6:00–21:00, Sat–Sun 8:00–20:00, longer at central and connecting stations.

then and now

Jewish q Old Town Hall, Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Five walks off the beaten path to places known and unknown 1

then and now

Top Prague Sights

design

q Na Můstku, Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

Prague.eu/walks

design

Jewish

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) q Prague 1 – Hradčany w www.hrad.cz The Prague Castle panorama is one of the most impressive anywhere. One of the largest castle complexes in the world, with historical palaces, church buildings, extensive gardens and picturesque vistas. Prague Castle has for over a thousand years symbolized Czech statehood. Most notable is the Gothic Cathedral of Sts Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert (1344). C2

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague.

Charles Bridge (Karlův most) q Prague 1 – Lesser Town, Old Town The oldest and most renowned Prague bridge was built in 1357 by Charles IV. At both ends stand fortified bridge towers – The twin Lesser Town towers and the Old Town tower, which is one of the finest gate towers of Gothic Europe. C3

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Prague.eu

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist.

St Nicholas Church (Kostel sv. Mikuláše) q Malostranské náměstí, Prague 1 w www.stnicholas.cz A prime example of Prague Baroque, with distinctive dome and bell tower. The Church is a key part of the panorama, not just the left bank of the Vltava River. While staying in Prague, W. A. Mozart played the organ here. C3

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Czech design shops, studios and showrooms

Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

Old Town Hall and Horologe (Staroměstská radnice s orlojem) q Staroměstské náměstí, Prague 1 w www.prague.eu/oldtownhall The Old Town Hall dates from 1338, presiding over the Old Town. The oldest Gothic part of the complex is the tower and the oriel chapel, as well as the medieval horologe, where every hour between 9:00–23:00 the 12 Apostles are to be seen. D3

Prague.eu Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

prague.eu/design Prague.eu

Discover the magic of Prague s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

Prague.eu

The Church of Our Lady Victorious – ‘Child of Prague’ (Kostel Panny Marie Vítězné – Pražské Jezulátko) q Karmelitská 9, Prague 1 w www.pragjesu.cz An early Baroque church renowned for its Infant Jesus statue from Spain, donated to the Carmelites by Polyxena of Lobkowitz (1628). C3

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel right at home in Prague.

Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter) q Strahovské nádvoří 1, Prague 1 w www.strahovskyklaster.cz The Premonstratensian monastery dates from 1140. Its grounds include the heritage Strahov library and Strahov picture gallery, with remarkable collections of Central European Gothic, Rudolfine, Baroque and Rococo works of art. B3

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Loreta q Loretánské náměstí 7, Prague 1 w www.loreta.cz A Marian pilgrimage place with replica Holy House, and the Baroque Church of the Nativity. The so-called Loreto treasure is a set of missal objects, the most famous being the Diamond monstrance. B3/2

q Old Town Hall, Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

Area: 496 km2 Population: 1,290,000 Geographical location: 50° 05‘ 19‘‘ North, 14° 25‘ 17‘‘ East, 235 m above sea level (avg.) Time zone: Central European Time (GMT +1) – CET daylight saving time +1 (GMT +2) Climate: Central European, temperate with 4 seasons Vltava River flows through the city for 31 km, widest point 330 m Historical centre: Prague Castle (Hradčany), Lesser Town (Malá Strana), Old Town (Staré Město), New Town (Nové Město) and Vyšehrad

q Na Můstku, Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m

1 Jan – New Year’s Day, Czech State Day Good Friday and Easter Monday (moveable feast) 1 May – Labour Day 8 May – Victory Day 5 July – Day of the Slavic missionaries Cyril & Methodius 6 July – Master John Hus Immolation Day 28 Sept – Czech Statehood Day 28 Oct – Czechoslovak State Inception Day 17 Nov – Freedom and Democracy Day 24 Dec – Christmas Eve 25 Dec – Christmas Day 26 Dec – St Stephen’s Day

Prague.eu Prague.eu

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centers, where we‘ll also be happy to assist:

q Na Můstku, Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m q Old Town Hall, Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel right at home in Prague.

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centers, where we‘ll also be happy to assist:

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel right at home in Prague. prague.eu/design

Prague.eu/walks

Czech design shops, studios and showrooms

Five walks off the beaten path to places known and unknown 1

prague.eu/design

design

Czech design shops, studios and showrooms

design

then and now

Prague.eu Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist:

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. design

then and now

Jewish

then and now

Green Spaces

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague.

q Na Můstku, Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m q Old Town Hall, Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m.

design

Gardens, Parks & Natural retreats

Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist.

With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. Prague.eu

walks

Jewish

prague.eu/beer Prague.eu Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist.

Over 50 tips for finding great beer in & around Prague