FEB 10th to FEB 16th, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
TABLE OF CONTENTS FRIDAY
3
THURSDAY
The JLo beauty machine
4
27
A&F to further trim stores in the US
28
Focus of the Day
29
Oscar De La Renta
30
Marchesa
31
Michael Kors
32
Focus of the Day Creatures of the Wind BCBG Max Azria
5 6 7
Kimberly Ovitz
8
MONDAY
9
TRENDS
33
When do designers reach the next level
10
Eastern Influence
34
Oxblood Leather
36
Winter white
38
Cropped jackets
40
Bling
42
PRESS RELEASE
44
EDITOR’S CHART
45
Focus of the Day Altuzarra Diane Von Furstenberg
11 12 13
Derek Lam
14
TUESDAY
15
Lilaine Betten exits L’oreal board
16
Focus of the Day
17
Donna Karan
18
Tommy Hilfiger
19
Theysken’s Theory
20
WEDNESDAY
21
Kors shares soar on strong profits
22
Focus of the Day
23
Marc Jacobs
24
Rodarte
25
J.Crew
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FRIDAY
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2012
The J.Lo Beauty Machine
The ad visual for the new fragrance
The “Glowing” bottle
Jennifer Lopez launches a new fragrance “Glowing” following the success of her previous perfume “Glow” which raked in millions in profits and has consolidated her fashion empire that includes a clothing line with Kohl’s among others. Despite claims that markets for celebrity fragrances has been on the wane, Mr.Bernd Beetz, CEO of COTY which is marketing the fragrance belives that this venture will be a commerical success. The advertising campaign for the new fragrance which has notes of vanilla, vetiver and patchouli will launch in May. 4
MARKET PLACE MEMO PAD BEAUTY FASHION SCOOPS NYFW FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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“The collection Shane Gabier and Christopher presented was already a sight for sore eyes.”
“It was clear that they aren't compromising an inch on their unique, offbeat vision.”
“What opened with a long black dress of filmy pleats quickly turned into a retro ting that echoed in the cut of the clothes.”
“If there wasn't anything otherworldly, per se, about the clothes, there was certainly something dreamy about their construction.”
“It was the definition of eclecticnever repetitive yet, as a whole, everything made sense.”
“Perhaps not a recipe for surefire retail success, but Gabier and Peters might have something better”
Preethi Bala
“The collection consists of smartly tailored seperates conceived in a collage of stripes, smart checks and prints.” “The collection was quirky and eclectic in colors of red, black, gray and green.” “Standout pieces included the tailored leather cape, the outer wear pieces which were as wearble as they were creative.
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“Cited Bauhaus style as a primary inspiration and what they really meant was color blocking, a trend they seized upon relentlessly on outwear, dresses and even furs.” “It was most effective in the neutral groups in breezy combinations of ivory and gray.” “A cacophonic interlude of mishmashed colors yeilded a look that mixed sporty and bohemian.”
“The shapes that underpinned the collection relied heavily on the loose-limbed look of seventies American sportswear.” “The sporty color-blocking was given depth by colorful contrasting pleats, though the new direction didn't feel as identifiably their own.” “The smattering of outerwear made up for its rarity by really laying on the luxury.”
Preethi Bala
“Color blocking has been a around for a few seasons but the interpretation by BCBG in not just in brights but in neutrals gave it a fresh look.” “It was the outwear pieces in particular that stood out with accents of fur and contrast pipe details in neutrals and color.” “The easy silhouettes, the vivid color palette in luxurious fabrics make this collection a winner.”
7
KIMBERLY OVITZ
“It’s Gothic and brooding without ignoring a woman’s sexuality — a plus when you’re pitching to the contemporary customer.” “Working almost exclusively in black with a few murky browns and a flash of white Ovitz created a tribal vibe. ” “It was a collection of easy dresses and great outerwear fit for a girl for whom tough is a look, not a lifestyle.”
“Kimberly Ovitz revealed that she had been inspired by warriors this season—and who better embodies a modern-day warrior than Steig Larsson's disciplined and vengeful heroine? ” “That divide marked the polarities at play—structure versus fluidity.” “Sexy and fresh, it more than held its own against the hacker chic.”
Preethi Bala
“Where the designer lacked in a wide color paltte, she made up for in terms of texture and tones.” “She was especially successful in terms of outwear with her asymterical leather jackets and to an extent in her draped dresses with leather accents.” “The collection was dark,edgy and sexy all in one and I see this aesthetic translating into commercial success.
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MONDAY
MONDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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MONDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2012
When Do Designers Reach the Next Level?
Thakoon
Altuzarra
Prabal Gurung
The math
How does one measure the success of a fledging business in reference to today’s young talented crop of designers like Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung and Thakoon? Experts say that it is not just their creative prowess but also their ability to be realistic, to achieve sales volume(the bar is set at 25 million), and achieving commercial success through clear brand clarity. Plenty of establishments have gone bankrupt for lack of the above reasons and others are saddled with debt. Going public as well as licensing and expansion to other countries as a sign of not only profitability and brand maturity but also a chance to make more money the best example being Michael Kors.
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WEEKEND REPORT MAGIC BEAUTY FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD NYFW ACCESSORIES MARKET PLACE EYE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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“The stunning collection displayed the designer’s growing range and confidence to push himself into new territory.”
“He's had hits before but none of them have been quite as ambitious or as all-around successful as this.
“Altuzarra looked to Indian prints and North African tribes, and combined terrific tailoring with an abundance of heavenly knits.
”For every jacket, there was an equally great-looking pair of corduroy flares or slim cargo pants peeking out from above thigh-high boots.
”He highlighted a dress draped in a way that loosely recalls a beautiful sari or the exuberance of a Bollywood blockbuster.”
"I just wanted to do things that women want to wear," Altuzarra said before the show, We'd say he's done it and then some.”
Preethi Bala
“The most incredible aspect of his collection was how he managed to retain touches from his previous season without being repetitive.” “Despite various influences ranging from french to Indian, each aspect came across with clarity. Adding the coins were ingenious.” “The tailoring especially on the military style jackets was impeccable.
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“Furstenberg’s most sophisticated lineup in recent memory with a distinct Parisian chic.” “Effortless and elaborate and with a heightened awareness to the promise of places she has not yet been.” “The clothes were perfectly suited for a glamorous night on the town — somewhere von Furstenberg is very comfortable”
Preethi Bala
“True to her word, DVF sent out a dressed-up collection that showcased what she called her design partner's "beautiful palette."
“DVF is known for her prints and her dresses and it was a pleasant surprise to see her push boundaries with color as well.”
“Prints, of course, are part of the DVF DNA, and this time around she decided to give them a surreal spin.”
“The collection was lady like, elegant and timeless and fun too. The leather gloves instantly gave it a femme fatale look.”
“It was their bold, fearless colors that people were talking about as they left.”
“Her prints were almost surreal and will work very well with pared down seperates.”
13
“Stocked with great clothes, the lot of it could go straight onto the sales floor. ”
“Lam's show had a sixties vibe that went beyond the bouffant hairdos and smoky cat eyes.”
“Lam worked a fashion-forward yet understandable look that felt very now — and the right amount of then, too.“
“As always, there was great outerwear here, but Lam deemphasized fur in favor of down.
“At the core were chic, minimalist separates warmed up with American classics, all of which were boosted by exceptional details and fabrics.”
”Only a high-tech mill could pull off those Aran sweaters made from twisted nylon tulle, and only a modern-thinking designer would pair them with long chiffon skirts trailing trains.”
Preethi Bala
“Derek lam's collection was wearable without being commercial.” “The elegant floral prints that he sent down were sixties without being cliched. ”Leather was a mainstay or as an accent. It gave the collection a luxurious edge without turning hard.”
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TUESDAY
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012
Liliane Bettencourt
Jean Victor Meyers
Liliane has passed the Loreal legacy to her grandson Jean Victor Meyers in the midst of rising profits . They continue to be the single largest stake holder in the business. Hints were dropped in 2007 and the decision was only impending woing to her ill health. She will continue to remain a member of the board and continue to participate in the compan’s interest. The company has posed good profits and are rapidly expanding in categories as well as countires and the Jean Victor is expected to continue performace.
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MEMO PAD FASHION SCOOPS NYFW EYE TEXTILES MARKET PLACE BEAUTY TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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Preethi Bala
“Kudos to Karan for returning with a highglam ode to the sexy power woman or the cerebral bombshell.”
“Donna karan channeled The Blue Angel, topping off nearly every look with one of Stephen Jones' jaunty mini fedoras.”
“Donna Karan is back to what she does best – the confident, sexy powerful woman, this time with a more masculine approach.”
“The collection centered on a reed-thin silhouette and tailoring galore, often in pinstripes.”
“Karan is fixated on menswear for Fall, but naturally, it went way beyond blazers and pants here.
“Evening looked plenty fresh — lean, constructed gowns and a miraculous mélange of felted jersey and sequins on something sheer.”
”When Karan did turn her attention to an unreconstructed double-breasted jacket or coat, she gave it exaggerated shoulders that read a bit too mannish.”
“Working with exclusively black, grey and red, she created pieces that were severe complemented by the hats. ”The signature draping detail that Donna is synonymous was incorporated in a few of her dresses as well as jackets.”
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“It featured a strong lineup of polished silhouettes with equestrian and military touches rendered in warm, fall hues like burgundy, brown and forest green. ”There was an abundance of great outerwear.” “Hilfiger clearly had a sophisticated woman in mind with this collection — the kind that might also love the classic music he played.”
Preethi Bala
“Town and Country was the name of his Fall collection, which broadened his preppy girl's world to include the horsey world of the hunt club in addition to Park Avenue.”
“Tommy Hilfiger has outgrown his obsession with prep and experimented with a more sophisticated theme that takes elements from military and equisterian influences.”
“It's an inspiration you'd expect to yield a polished look, and the result was supremely precise.”
“Key pieces were the military jackets, the simple dresses paired with riding boots, and textured chunky knits.”
“When taken piece by piece, the collection's luxurious materials and, yes, precision, were beyond reproach.”
“Leather played a significant role in the collection both as induvidual pieces as well as detailing.”
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“In just a few seasons, Olivier Theyskens has developed a clear signature for Theyskens’ Theory — ubercool with a street edge tempered by adult sophistication.” “This time, he downplayed his Goth impulses and amped up the glamour.” “It’s great to see his romantic aesthetic now so much more accessible, yet still plenty strong.”
“The designer's pleats.”
big
idea
was
“Sheer was another big theme; when this designer was at the forefront of the trend a couple of years ago, it was hard to imagine it sticking.” “Good to see Theyskens pushing the boundaries he's established for the contemporary brand.”
Preethi Bala
“Theysken’s key looks for the season comprised, his skinny cropped jackets,pleated pants and play dresses.” “The clothes where surprisingly less dark and the black and gold played off each other.” “The perfect blend of glam and edge.”
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WEDNESDAY
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2012
Kors Shares Soar On Strong Profits
John Idol
Michael Kors’ Hamilton bag
Michael Kors's stock value on Wall street is promising and continued to soar by an additional 27.5% making it hugely profitable. What started at $25 last decemeber has grown to $42. Chairman John Idol states future plans – more free standing stores, international expansion, and “shop in shop” stores and extensive promotions in Asia to compete. The company also plans to concentrate on accessories as opposed to clothing whose market seems volatile at the moment. The success of the brand is attributed to high per sq foot profitability, two differently positioned lines - a more premium line and the more accessible Michael line among others and the company expects to continue the good performance.
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FASHION SCOOPS NYFW COTERIE MEDIA MARKET PLACE MEMO PAD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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“Most looks demonstrated a shushed-up Edwardian undercurrent in their curvature of silhouette, the structure achieved through cut and construction.” “Throughout, shots of color, both bold and gentle, interrupted the dominant blacks and grays.” “A statement of the beauty and inevitability of mourning from a brilliant, complicated designer no longer young? Perhaps.”
“Marc Jacobs earned his reputation as New York fashion's consummate showman and then some tonight.” “The getups were just as offkilter;Colors were all over the map.” “It was fearless, just like Piaggi, Yaeger, and co. And it made you fall in love with fashion and Marc Jacobs all over again.”
Preethi Bala
“His collection was dramatic and reminiscent of the costumes in a Tim Burton movie.” “The textures, exaggerated shapes and the hats were wonderful but the shoes were hideous.” The collection was dark, grown up and with some paring down would be commerically viable.”
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“Australia;not the sporty surf but the country’s more romantic and distant past —informed Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection.” “The Mulleavys molded the idea of rugged terrain into outstanding fisherman sweaters and patchwork aviator shearlings.” “The leather work and Aboriginal patterns moved the lineup in an edgier direction.
Preethi Bala
“This time around, though, they got the art and commerce balance right.”
“The way the sisters melded the prints and textures together gave the collection character.”
“Here they showed black and white shearlings you could believably see strutting city streets.”
“The knit pieces and the cropped shearling jackets were phenomenal.”
“The finale evening gowns with their cave-painting handprints were as unconventional as ever. Same goes for their new shoe collection.”
”In the past, I have found Rodarte’s clothes suitable only for a certain market but this one had something for everyone.”
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“J. Crew’s fall collection, felt refreshingly true to its roots.”
“Loads of colors, loads of prints, loads of textures.”
“There were still ample stripes, sequins and perfectly mixed styling, but Mora paid more attention to great pants and sweaters.”
“Tom Mora, the new head women's designer, said the focus was on head-to-toe dressing but offbeat, mix-and-match layering still rules here.”
“Also upped the ante in accessories with shearling bags and a new designer collaboration Manolo Blahnik BB pumps.”
“The venue and the format are no match for the crowds anxious to see what you do next.”
Preethi Bala
“J.Crew’s collection was effortless in its look and fresh in its styling, mixing brocades, knits and leather.” “They showed printed pants, in layered looks and theManolos made exclsuively for the brand finished the look.” “Color both brights and pastels were key in terms of clothes as well as accessories.”
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THURSDAY
THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2012
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
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THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2012
A&F To Further Trim Store Base in U.S.
A&F Store front
ANF plans to close around 180 stores mostly based in malls which aren’t doing well to improve over all profitability. Real estate prices are a key concern. The company plans to concentrate on expansion in Europe and Asia where market potential is favorable .Also the company has tried to offset for lower profits by anagressive online campaign for their e commerce. CEO Michael Jeffries beleives despite recession in Europe; profits will remain unaffected due to brand image.
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FASHION SCOOPS NYFW EYE MENS MARKET PLACE MEMO PAD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2012
“Australia;not the sporty surf but the country’s more romantic and distant past —informed Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection.” “The Mulleavys molded the idea of rugged terrain into outstanding fisherman sweaters and patchwork aviator shearlings.” “The leather work and Aboriginal patterns moved the lineup in an edgier direction.
WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
“This time around, though, they got the art and commerce balance right.” “Here they showed black and white shearlings you could believably see strutting city streets.” “The finale evening gowns with their cave-painting handprints were as unconventional as ever. Same goes for their new shoe collection.”
29
“Australia;not the sporty surf but the country’s more romantic and distant past —informed Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection.” “The Mulleavys molded the idea of rugged terrain into outstanding fisherman sweaters and patchwork aviator shearlings.” “The leather work and Aboriginal patterns moved the lineup in an edgier direction.
“This time around, though, they got the art and commerce balance right.” “Here they showed black and white shearlings you could believably see strutting city streets.” “The finale evening gowns with their cave-painting handprints were as unconventional as ever. Same goes for their new shoe collection.”
Preethi Bala
“Marchesa’s collection was an amalgamation of intricate detail, beautiful fabrics in red carpet worthy silhouettes.” “Usually floor length this season they also showed shorter lengths.” ”Surface ornamentation elevated each piece into a work of art.”
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“Luxurious — never more so than right now, as he sent out a lineup with an extravagance to match the merry financial roll his brand is riding.” “He swathed his girls in buffalocheck blanket wools, beefy tweeds and fur, fur, fur.” “Abundant outerwear proportions were tempered by the substantial yet languid clothes beneath.”
Preethi Bala
“After 30-plus years in the business, Kors has his formula down cold.”
“After an average show last season, Kors is back to what he’s doing best.”
“Daywear was all about the unexpected mix: an almost conservative midi-length skirt paired with a knit lace tank bustier, or black leather adding edge to a gray plaid dress.”
“The collection had blanket coats in huge plaids, and fur coats that gave his outdoorsy collection a uber luxurious feel.”
“Cocktail hour continued to match country with city; But high evening was highly polished.”
“The evening pieces were slick and reminded us how versatile Kors really is.”
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12th February, 2012 NEW YORK Rodarte is a brand of clothing and accessories founded by Kate and Laura Mulleavy in 2005. Since their inception they have received a number of industry awards like the CFDA Womenswear Designer award among others. They have a celebrity fanbase that includes Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley and Anne Hathway. The sisters, usually regarded as America’s fashion dreamers who have shown collections that reference Sleeping Beauty and Days of Heaven in the past are looking to the Australian Outback this season in continuation to their homage to Terrence Malick. The great Australian landscape serves as the central theme for the cinematic collection built off of a rust and azure blue palette.
PRESS RELEASE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK - FALL 2012
“ We’ve actually never been to Australia” said the sisters. “ We’ve always wanted to go and hopefully this collection will get us there!” they said. This season they play with a rustic palette comprising rustic tones, cool neutrals and blue manifestedinto leather, textured wovens and knit alpaca pieces paired with high waisted wool pants in solids and aborginal motifs with a definite 40’s vibe.Tailored coats ,cropped jackets and printed floor length dresses are also part of the line up. Key details that the collection will focus on include peter pan collars, structured ruffles, and hand tooled appliques for the feminine and signature Rodarte. The collection is a versatile, quirky mix mix of both red carpet worthy styles and wearble pieces. Having worked with Nicholas Kirkwood and Louboutin in the past season, for the first time, the brand is debuting a long-awaited shoe line which includes two tone pumps, lace up boots and quirky plexiglass heels which are all covet worthy and generated plenty of buzz in the fashion circles. This year’s show will be held as part of the Mercedes Benz fashion week at The Metropoliton Center on the 14th of February at 6pm. Year after year the runway shows attract plenty of A-listers and fashion fraternity. This season expect to see a mix of high profile celebs Dakota Fanning, Ntalaie Portman , Maria Sharapova, Tavi Gevinson, Franca Sozzani and George Lucas who’ll be present to extend their support to the sisters! All in all be prepared to see a gorgeous autumnal line up, just begging to be worn.
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Fall2012 02.10
New York Fashion Week 02.16
Trend report
L 2 01
2
L FA
COLLECTIONS NEW YORK
East was a huge influence on the ramp this season from prints to surface techniques to colors and silhouettes. Each designer interpreted it differently - Chinese miltary at Wu, India at Altuzarra, Wrap silhouettes at Jen Kao and so on. This is a definite indication of how the east a huge market at the moment.
34
East meets West
35
L 2 01
2
L FA
COLLECTIONS NEW YORK
Oxblood or maroon gave black stiff competition on the runway. It came in various forms - leather, fur, knits, woven in various silhouettes. Expect to see this at a retail level soon since it looks great paired with both darks and neutrals.
36
L 2 01
2
L FA
COLLECTIONS NEW YORK
And who said white was only for spring? Head to toe white was huge for fall. Pants, to blouses to bags to outerwear came in various shades of white in wide variety of textures. This is a bold alternative for boring blacks - Hail winter whites!
38
Head to Toe White
39
L 2 01
2
L FA
COLLECTIONS NEW YORK
Crop is the name of the game! While a few seasons ago the cropped pant was huge, now its the turn of the crop jacket. From leather to , sherling, to brocade the crop jacket is flattering and can instantly add interest to a outfit. The skinny gold version shown by Theyskens was my favorite pick.
40
Cropped Jacket
L 2 01
2
L FA
COLLECTIONS NEW YORK
Shine, shimmer, bling call it what you may, it is here to stay. Gold was the favorite for evenign wear shown in dresses, jackets, full length gowns The combination of black and gold caught my eye!
in lame, sequin and bugkle bead embroidery
42
Bling!
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