Christmas In An Irish Castle

Celtic Comfort & Holiday Traditions

By Barbara Ramsay Orr

Our Christmas dreams are filled with visions of celebratory foods, sparkling decor, and some quiet time by a cozy fire. If travel is part of your Christmas dreams but you don’t want to leave those traditional celebrations behind, consider a stately stay in the Irish countryside. The weather is wintery but not severe, the craic is friendly and welcoming, and the holiday food and drink are suitable for royalty.

What better place to celebrate Christmas, then, than in a grand Irish castle?

One of the most welcoming places I’ve stayed in Ireland is Ballymaloe House, near the city of Cork. The lovingly maintained home, still family-run, is a perfect Christmas house, with multiple fireplace mantels decked with armloads of holly and ivy from their farm, and a dining room dressed for the holidays. The oldest parts of the present Ballymaloe House can be traced back to an Anglo-Norman castle built around 1450. Each of the 33 rooms has its own name and distinct character.

When I stayed at Ballymaloe, I was charmed by its informality. Guests met together most afternoons in the large main drawing room. The drawing room is where I met with Hazel Allen, daughter-in-law of the original creators of the Manor House Hotel. She poured us tea from a massive teapot and offered me buttery shortbread while we chatted in front of the fire. “You’re the Canadian,” she said. “In some ways, I credit Canada for causing me to end up at Ballymaloe.”

As a young woman, she had worked at Expo ‘67 in Montreal. On the bus on her way to work one day, she picked up a Canadian newspaper and read a story about Ballymaloe and its dining room’s emerging reputation for using local farmto-table ingredients. “That was before Farm-to-Table was a thing! I was intrigued. When I got back to Ireland, I looked into it, wrote a letter asking for a job, and was hired.” The first person she met there was Rory Allen, son of the owners. They fell in love, married, and … ”Here I am!”

Later I met Darina Allen, another daughter-in-law, and a famous cook and cookbook author. She’s probably the best-known chef in Ireland, affectionately referred to as ‘Ireland’s Nigella’.Her prestigious Ballymaloe Cookery School is just down the road from the manor house and guests can book classes and tastings. There are walks to be had through the walled garden or the 300-acre property, or guests can opt for bike rides along country lanes or hikes along the coastal cliffs. The Jameson Distillery is close by for a visit and Cork City is nearby as well.

The best activity of all is relaxing by the fire, with holly, tinsel, and a massive Christmas tree.

Because Ballymaloe is still family-owned, as one would expect the house is closed from December 18th to the 27th so the family can celebrate their private Christmas. In the weeks leading up to Christmas, however, the dining room debuts seasonal fare, the house is decorated for the season with fresh boughs from the estate and the famous Ballymaloe Farm Shop is full of one-of-a-kind gifts. It’s the perfect place for a pre-Christmas getaway.

Another Irish castle that celebrates the season with great style is Ballyfin. This perfectly restored country house is the most luxurious place I’ve ever stayed. Ballyfin isn’t elegant in an ostentatious way. It’s elegant because of the pitch-perfect style of every corner of the house. If you love Irish art, sumptuous decor, and the decadent allure of a country estate holiday, Ballyfin will enchant you. It’s like sliding back to a gentler, more indulgent era for a while.

Christmas at Ballyfin is a parade of temptations, with champagne by the fire, and multi-course feasts in the dining room - I think every dining room should have a fireplace or two! - and outdoor adventures in the bracing Irish air. Guests can take horse-drawn carriage rides, indulge in clay pigeon shooting or archery, hike along the lake or explore the walled garden and grounds. There are special all-inclusive packages for Christmas and New Year’s celebrations. Set at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains in the centre of Ireland, this 400-year-old Georgian house, restored to its original grandeur, is the perfect setting for Christmas or New Year’s.

Rockstar Eric Clapton was once the owner of Barberstown Castle, a property that dates from the 13th century and is now a 55-room hotel. The Eric Clapton Suite is #79. It’s situated in the small town of Straffan, close to Dublin, so you could spend Christmas day sampling Christmas-bedecked restaurants and pubs.

Dromoland Castle in County Clare is another famous estate that will serve up a sophisticated Christmas season getaway. Like Ballyfin, this historic property has been well restored, though more Victorian in style than the Georgian influence of Ballyfin.

The castle’s open fires, twinkling lights, and seasonal decor – including a handmade gingerbread house – will conjure the spirit of the season. The hotel offers a three-night festive getaway that begins with a cocktail & canapé reception on Christmas Eve followed by dinner in The Earl of Thomond restaurant. A piper will herald the arrival of a special Christmas guest (who even arrives with gifts).

The next day, enjoy a late breakfast followed by a traditional Christmas Lunch with all the seasonal trimmings, accompanied by melodies from Dromoland’s resident pianist. Between meals, guests can explore the grounds by foot or by bike, which share the same design as the Gardens of Versailles. There’s a guided Hawk Walk as well as an excursion to the nearby Limerick Race Course.

Ashford Castle, in County Mayo, is an 800-year-old property and the former home of the Guinness family. It’s also home to one of Ireland’s best spas, so Christmas guests can work in some wellness treatments with their celebrations. For a romantic and private celebration, book the boathouse to enjoy lake views and your private gardens and terrace. Arrange a guided walk with the property’s gardener, book a private dinner with the chef, or enjoy a tasting in the wine cellar.

A stay at one of Ireland’s storied estates will create brilliant Christmas memories for any holiday season traveller.

Photos Courtesy of Ballymaloe Country House, Ballyfin, Ashford Castle, Dromoland Castle and Barbara Ramsay Orr