on religious travel: ❖
randy mink
A rib-vaulted ceiling with gold-leaf stars crowns Notre-Dame Basilica.
Faith Journey
Through Montreal
W
Old World flavor and historical religious landmarks enhance touring in Canada’s second largest city
alk down the narrow, cobbled streets flanked by centuries-old stone buildings and you’re magically transported to Europe. Outdoor cafes, flag-festooned souvenir shops, signs in French and people greeting each other with kisses on the cheek conjure up images of France or Belgium. Old Montreal, a revitalized port district, is the touristic heart of this is24 October 2011
land city in the St. Lawrence River. Not far north of New York and Vermont, Montreal (pop. 3.9 million) is the largest French-speaking city outside of France and a close-to-home getaway for Americans seeking a little joie de vivre. It’s culturally different yet familiar; residents know English as well as French. Much of the history that tourists experience in Old Montreal revolves
around the early days of the Catholic Church, which played a dominant role in the settling of French Canada. In addition to sites from colonial days, faith-themed itineraries in Montreal include places of worship and pilgrimage dating from the 20th century. Notre-Dame Basilica looms large as Old Montreal’s most prominent landmark. The Gothic Revival-style church, LeisureGroupTravel.com
a stately edifice dominated by twin bell towers, was built between 1824 and 1843 on the site of the original church founded by the Sulpician order in the 1600s. Inspired by the Sainte-Chapelle, a medieval Gothic masterpiece in Paris, the nave is a vision in blue, with a magnificently carved wooden altarpiece backlit in blue and a blue, rib-vaulted ceiling sprinkled with gold-leaf stars (symbolizing the bliss that awaits in Heaven). Ceiling frescoes, carved pillars painted in a rainbow of colors and stained-glass windows depicting Montreal’s religious heritage add to the splendor.
look around the after the show. Besides the general 20-minute tour of the church, groups can arrange specialized tours. A 90-minute tour focuses on the stained-glass windows (made in Limoges, France in 1930-31) and includes windows not usually accessible to visitors. On a 60-minute tour, groups can visit with Pierre Grandmaison, who has worked as a Notre-Dame organist since 1973, and learn about the 7,000-pipe organ built in 1891. The wooden pews in the nave and balconies can seat up to 3,000 people. Notre-Dame, Quebec’s de facto national
Blessed Virgin. Canonized by Pope John Paul II in 1982, the modest woman (1620-1700) founded Montreal’s first school and the Sisters of the Congregation de Notre Dame. Her remains are interred under the altar. Miniature boats hanging in the sanctuary underscore its connection to the port. Masses in English are celebrated on Saturday. Group tours, led by a docent in period dress, include the stone crypt and archaeological site with charred remains of the first chapel, plus a trek up the tower’s observation deck, which affords views of the port and Old Montreal.
Photos courtesy of Tourisme Montreal
Visitors to St. Joseph’s Oratory can see Brother Andre’s modest chapel and pray in the main building’s votive chapel.
Notre-Dame’s state-of-the-art sound and light show, “And then there was light,” is offered most nights from Tuesday through Saturday. Complete with music and narration, the colorful 35minute show uses the latest in digital technology in splashing the history of Montreal and the church onto video screens and giant canvases. Carved altarpiece statues of Mary being crowned by Christ, the Crucifixion, Last Supper and various biblical figures, along with the stained glass and other artistic and architectural flourishes, shine under spotlights. The audience listens with wireless headsets and has 15 minutes to LeisureGroupTravel.com
cathedral, has been the scene of state funerals for Canadian officials and in 1994 saw the wedding of Quebec’s own Celine Dion. The blue-and-tan floor slopes a full meter on its way to the altar, allowing worshippers a better view of the proceedings. The oldest church in Old Montreal, close to the recently revitalized Old Port, fronts rue Saint-Paul, the oldest street in town. Notre-Dame-de-Bon Secours Chapel, also known as the Sailor’s Chapel, was built in 1771 on the site of a chapel established in 1678 by Sister Marguerite Bourgeoys, who wanted a place of pilgrimage dedicated to the
The Marguerite Bourgeoys Museum focuses on the saint’s life and city history. Spiritual journeys in Old Montreal also take in Maison de Mere d’Youville, which pays homage to another Canadian saint named Marguerite. The museum tells the story of Marguerite d’Youville, a tireless advocate of the poor who founded the Sisters of Charity of Montreal, better known as the “Grey Nuns.” A widow and mother of two young sons, she resided in the house between 1747 and 1771, taking in the elderly, sick and orphaned. Tours include the kitchen where she served soup to the poor and room where she died. October 2011 25
on religious travel: ❖ The Grey Nuns use the house, built as a hospital in 1693, as an office and residence. The story of Brother Andre, another Canadian saint, comes alive at St. Joseph’s Oratory, a must-see on any Montreal itinerary. Perched atop Mount Royal, the church dominates skyline views, its eight-sided green copper dome the third largest in the world (after St. Peter’s in Rome and a St. Peter’s replica in the Ivory Coast). The largest shrine in the world dedicated to St. Joseph annually attracts more than two million
the Oratory. Points of interest include the concrete-and-granite walled Basilica (seating 2,200), the Crypt Church under the basilica, an observation deck with views of the Laurentian Mountains and museum exhibits relating to Brother Andre, including photos of his canonization last October by Pope Benedikt XVI. On display are the tomb and heart of Canada’s only male saint, plus a replica of the little room where he received the afflicted and their families. The votive chapel contains more than 10,000 lights and votive candles, along
prolific artist also designed frescoes and showed his architectural talents by designing entire church interiors, including the woodwork. Studio Nincheri, not a working studio since 1996, soon will be open for group tours led by his grandson, Roger Nincheri. Groups can visit Nincheri-decorated churches, such as Saint-Leon in the Westmount neighborhood, where a 2½-hour tour, complete with a coffee break, can be arranged. Montreal is a treasure house brimming with possibilities for Catholic travel groups. But its religious land-
A Montreal landmark capped by a massive copper dome, the Basilica Church of St. Joseph’s Oratory seats 3,000.
visitors and pilgrims. The most dedicated reach the hilltop basilica on their knees, using the nearly 300 wooden steps that lead to the church from street level. The imposing edifice contrasts with the slight stature of its founder, Brother Andre (1845-1937), a humble, sickly, barely literate man who inspired its construction. A doorkeeper at nearby Notre Dame College and later the guardian of St. Joseph’s Oratory, Brother Andre became known as a miracle worker, sometimes seeing over 700 people a day in his office and urging them to pray with him as he invoked St. Joseph, healer of the sick. Groups can spend several hours at 26 October 2011
with crutches and other items left behind by thankful pilgrims in memory of a claimed healing. Mass is said daily in English at the Crypt Church. Also on the grounds are Brother Andre’s original chapel (1904), which contains the room where he stayed; Gardens of the Way of the Cross; and a bed-and-breakfast accommodation for up to 30 people (ideal for a retreat). Another prominent figure in the religious history of Montreal is an artist. Guido Nincheri, born in Italy, spent 30 years (1925-1955) decorating churches in Canada and the U.S., including about 20 percent of the churches in Montreal. Most famous for stained-glass creations, the
marks, so entwined with city history, play a major role in most every itinerary aimed at first-time visitors. For more information, contact Tourisme Montreal, 514-844-5400, tourisme-montreal.org. LGT Obtain Canada visitor guides and itineraries – and contact groupfriendly suppliers directly – at leisuregrouptravel.com/instant-info
ONLINE EXCLUSIVE Learn more about Old Montreal in Randy Mink’s online article. Log on to www.leisuregrouptravel.com/?p=25369.
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