Jan 2013 Issue
Spring, Well, Pressured & Rain Water. Locally owned and operated
M P C, NC
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Letter from the Editor The year 2012 certainly had a fair share of weather anomalies. Hurricane Sandy and the severe thunderstorm causing floods that ended out the year with many people at a loss of traditional power. Even the New Year of 2013 has seen a tumultuous start with the natural disaster of Winter Storm Iago taxing power systems, causing floods, landslides and record breaking bitter cold. Alternative power sources are on the mind of many folks, urging us all to prepare! It is our desire at PREPARE Magazine, that these articles, instructions and suggestions help encourage you, especially if this topic has impacted you recently, or if you are preparing for power outages NOT to impact your future. Either way, it is always Important to have an Alternative Energy Source or two.
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Support Services All of us may even need a reminder that we have Pre-Electricity Roots and survived fine before the grid. Or perhaps you are Considering Living Off-Grid all together. In our Feature Article: Anatomy of a Micro-Hydro Generator the author begins giving you steps to solve the problem of generating your own power. This specific topic will be continued in our upcoming print issue, so that you can see your project through to the end and start generating your own power from water. As usual, we have included a variety of articles on other topics that we hope will empower your preparedness journey and bring peace as you prepare. After all, the whole purpose of preparing is because life is never guaranteed to stay ‘on topic’.
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Table of Contents • • • • • • • • • • • •
Letter from the Editor The Three B's of Preparedness Important Considerations If You want to Live Off-Grid Importance of Having an Alternative Energy Source Anatomy of a MicroHydro Generator (This is our Feature Article) Our Pre-Electricity Roots Every Family Should Have a Garden Solar Collector Can Cut Your Electric Bill Harnessing Wind Power Ticks Suck! Review: Solar Sport Solar Oven Preparation Through Emotional Unity
Design and Graphics Coolbrees Studio LeverageChile.com Contributing Editors Britt M. Kelly Thomas Additional Contact: P.O. Box 934, Burnsville, NC 28714 Fax: 888-716-1511
The Three B’s of Preparedness
By Jason Hunt
Well, the election is over and it’s become apparent that our Nation is continuing down a slippery slope. With all of the legislation and rhetoric being espoused from D.C. regarding gun control, ammo taxes, healthcare and the much vaunted secession debate which is continually spun and re-spun by the media, Mr. John Public is fed a steady stream of ilk which cements him in apathy. Mr. Public doesn’t know what to do or believe because he’s not a doer, nor is he self-motivated, but one that believes everything will pan out as long as he continues to rely on the institutions which made this Nation what it is today. If he encounters difficulty in life, he simply reports to the local welfare office for his monthly ration. Should he become ill, he simply needs to report to the local
Medicaid office where he will be assigned a doctor and cared for. And, when he is one day unable to find stable employment, he simply reports to the FEMA Camp where work will be assigned and his basic needs met and his protection ensured by the armed FEMA Youth Corp from the civil uprising that is outside the gates. However, I, and I pray you dear reader, am a doer. We have seen the writing on the proverbial wall for some years now and daily things escalate: A super storm in the North East, an earthquake in Eastern Kentucky and in the Middle East, Israel has decided to start assassinating its enemies without “international” approval. If you have not been prepping for a while now, YOU’RE ALREADY BEHIND! Preparedness isn’t
something that is a passing fad or an idea that can be thrown together on a whim. True preparedness isn’t having enough on hand for a few days during a storm; true preparedness is a lifestyle… Something you live and DO daily. With that in mind, I have broken down this lifestyle into three categories called the “3 B’s”they’re easy to remember and
I realize that it’s difficult to store everything you need for 1, 2 or more years but you can at least prepare enough essentials to greatly affect your survivability over a long period by simply prepping the 3 B’s.
should you prep these items alone in abundance and in redundancy you will not only have the very core of your long term survival needs, but trade items which can be utilized as currency when there’s none to be had. The three B’s are:
BEANS: Beans don’t only stand for the wonderful things that make chili extra filling and our rear ends extra noisy, but food in general. Obviously you will want to eat should you be forced into a long term situation of self-reliance. If you believe that you will be able to live on wild edibles and wild game, you’re incredibly misinformed. You will not be able to harvest enough from the wild to be completely self-reliant and in all likelihood not enough to survive just one harsh winter. Thus, you MUST supplement your wild edibles and gardening and canning with store bought canned foods, MREs, Freeze Dried and Dehydrated food stuffs. Taking into consideration your shelter and mobility options, you may be able to have one large cache of food or several within a specified area. Regardless of the scenario, compile primarily foods, drinks, mixes and yes, even liquor such as whiskey or vodka. These are items which you should consume on a regular basis NOW so that your palate is not forced to greatly adjust to “survival food”. If you hate Spamdon’t stock it in abundance! Use it for trade… Liquors like Vodka can be used as trade, antiseptic, poison ivy relief, a laundry freshener, insect repellant,
mold killer, and to treat ear aches, to name only a few!
BULLETS: Bullets obviously means ammo but I also lump knives and other tool items in this category. Stock up on common ammunition NOW. We all hear the rhetoric and it’s only a matter of time before they tax the ammo so much we cannot afford it. Look at the Cook County Illinois (Chicago) with their proposed “violence tax” of $0.25 per bullet sold! So that box of 50 . 22 rounds will now cost you a whopping $22.50 instead of the current $10.00 (approx. for Federal ammo at Sportsman’s Guide). What is common ammunition? Well, it’s not .223… Think 12 gauge, 22 long and 9mm- these are the guns you need on hand for your family and the ammo you need to stock FIRST in abundance because it’s cheaper, easier to obtain now and it will be the most common you’ll find should your neighborhood be taken to a FEMA camp… Some will argue that they need to grab up their .223 or 7.63x39 or 54 because the others are more common and while that rings true, the others build up faster. I mean how many .22 do you really need? You can get a box of 500 Blazer rounds for $17- stock up 5000 rounds and you’re probably set for your .22 supply for some years to come. Do the same with your 12 gauge which is $23 for 100 rounds of target or bird shot at Wal-Mart. Remember; the common ammo is for small game hunting and bandit protection. You need the other goodies for the occasional big game, holding off marauders, zombies, Blue Hats, etc. Another thought to consider is picking up some barrel adapter for a 12 gauge single shot such as a New England Arms Pardner or H& R single shot. You can pick
these weapons up for around $50$60 at most pawn stores, they last forever, you can clean them easily in the field and with a small investment of $110 you could shoot 410/45LC, 9mm and .22 through your shotgun! Knives, as I mentioned, are also lumped here because everyone needs a good knife for skinning game, doing chores or for self-defense. Choose a solid fixed blade and select one that you can stake your life on. Too often people believe they can enter a survival situation with a cheap China made knife from a flea market only to have it break the first time they baton a branch with it. For me, my knife is one of the most expensive items I carry, often costing as much or more than my guns! I go for a carbon steel, fixed blade that can just as easily be used for selfdefense as they can for common woods chores. I like the Becker BK2 and Habilis Bushtool. But there are many other fine knives that can accomplish the same things. Shop around for the best deal, check eBay, or find a trading site such as Bushcraft Trading Post on Facebook. I have upgraded
most of my equipment by trading within this group and have a back up knife such as a folder or smaller fixed blade for carving or skinning tasks. Mora Knives are great little knives that can easily be rehandled when the plastic handle breaks, and they’re cheap. Condor Knives also offer good quality products for a fair price. Cold Steel used to be nice and their high end
models still are, but they’re priced out of the common mans market. There’s no reason to have to spend over $200 on a good knife. That said, cheap knives have their place in your barter bin. Keep lots
around as beaters and for trade with other like-minded folks along the trail.
Band-Aids: Band-Aid stands for all your medical & hygiene supplies. You need bandages, gauze rollers, 4x4 pads, tampons, soap, and toilet tissue, sutures, anti septic ointments, antibiotics galore and whatever prescriptions you rely on. If you wear glasses, have several pairs available in hard cases. Stock up on common antibiotics and refill whatever prescriptions you’re given as often as you can and just keep the meds stocked back because they most likely don’t expire. There are over 122 types of commonly prescribed medicines that don’t go bad; some even after 40 years of storage, according to a recent FDA press release**. Things that do expire are Aspirin and Tylenol, but they will still go at least 5 years according to the same FDA study! And you can get 140 tablets of 325mg Aspirin at your
local Dollar Tree for, yes, $1 and it is made in the USA! Additionally, get some basic medical training. A class in Wilderness First Aid will greatly enhance your ability to field treat common problems and learn to improvise when you lack proper medical equipment. Get booksREAL BOOKS, not e-books on field medicine. When and if the power grid fails, e-books are worthless. If you’re near Kentucky and want to get some training in Wilderness/ Disaster Medicine, check out my website as we offer classes on a regular basis. I realize that it’s difficult to store everything you need for 1, 2 or more years and, in reality, you can’t do it due to variables that cannot be foreseen or taken into account. However, you can at least prepare enough essentials to greatly affect your survivability over a long period by simply prepping the 3 B’s. And always remember- Hope for the best, prep for the worst…
LINKS ** http:// www.doomandbloom.net/ 2012/10/new-evidence-onexpiration-dates-2.html
http:// drugtopics.modernmedicine. com/news/do-expirationdates-make-difference
“If I am what I have and if I lose what I have who then am I?� ~ Erich Fromm
Considerations if You Want to Live Off-Grid
By Trent Powers
To live off the grid means you are not connected to a local power grid and do not need to rely on the power suppliers for your energy. You can also develop your own food and water sources. It is important that you control your sources and that they are accessible at all times so in the event of disaster you can live independently. Food sources may include raising livestock such as poultry, beef, and swine. You will also want to grow fruits and vegetables for the important nutrients they provide your body. You can hunt, trap and fish to supplement your sources, as well as grow herbs for seasoning and health benefits. Growing enough food to sustain you and a family year-round requires hard work, knowledge and the ability to put those skills and knowledge to practical use. You will need to learn to preserve fruits and vegetables by
canning, pickling and drying. Meats will have to be smoked or dried and in some cases pickled and canned to preserve long term. These options require certain materials and equipment that might not be available during a crisis, so start gathering the supplies and materials now. Items you will need for canning include salt, sugar, spices, white vinegar, canning jars and large vessels for boiling water and jars. You can smoke and/or dry meat over an open fire, a smallenclosed smoke house or even on a charcoal grill. Fruits, as well as certain vegetables, can be turned into preservatives or dried by using any available heat source. First, start out by building a seed bank or repository. You can purchase heirloom seeds that will produce plants from which seeds can be harvested but it will take several seasons and multiple crop harvests to gain any sizable
amount of seeds. Hybrid plants are not a long-term survival option for a food source because the plants will only produce sterile seeds, meaning you have to purchase the seeds or plants for every season. This would not be sustainable in a crisis, where you do not have access to commercial green houses, nor would hybrid plants be considered a renewable food source. Purchase heirloom seeds in bulk and store for the future as you begin raising heirloom plants now. The key to living off grid is self-sufficiency and sustainability. You have to be able to repeat what you are doing today to survive tomorrow. You need to be growing food almost year-round. You can use hydroponic methods or build a green house. Green houses can be built with clear plastic and a wood frame or you can use PVC tubing and some pipe glue. Make sure the structure will have the benefit of full sun in colder weather. You can heat the green house by solar
radiant heat. Fill some black barrels with water and use the sun as a passive heat source. The water in the barrel will heat up during the day and then radiate its heat at night. Hydroponics is simply growing plants and vegetables without using soil as a growing medium. Water, sand, gravel and coconut grass can be used. You may live in an area where the soil is simply not suited for plants or for some reason it has become contaminated. You can begin gathering sand, gravel and other
growing mediums to grow virtually any plant anywhere. You will need liquid nutrients because the key to hydroponics is having water flow over a plant’s root system, allowing the plant to absorb water and nutrients. The growing medium, for all practical purposes, is simply a stabilizer for the plant because the roots of the plant will grow through the medium seeking the nutrient rich water. Water is a priceless commodity and it must be given top priority for long-term survival. You must have access to clean drinking
water daily. To ensure you have control over the source have a well drilled or dug on your property. If you plan to use a surface source for your water, you will have to have a filtering and purification system in place. Surface sources include lakes, ponds, rivers and streams. Natural springs can also be used for a water source, but in some cases, you will need to have a filtering and purification system in place as well. The most reliable water source is a dug or drilled well that has tapped in to an underground aquifer. This ensures you have a constant and renewable source that you control.
The Importance of Having an Alternative Energy Source By Trent Powers turn crude oil into a useable energy source. You need to be able to develop and harness an energy source yourself and it must be locally produced or available. What Happens When... When the lights go out and the furnace and air conditioner stop working because a disaster has damaged or destroyed the local, or even the country's, power grid - what will you do? You may have a generator that can be used for the time being, but for an extended period you would not be able to resupply and soon the generator would be so much clutter underfoot. You will still need to have fuel to operate your generator, which in a long-term situation may be unobtainable. And...what happens when your current energy source becomes so expensive that you simply cannot afford it anymore?
Alternative energy sources are not necessarily considered renewable energy sources. Renewable sources are considered ones that naturally replenish themselves such as wood, wind, sun and water to some extent. Therefore, when people discuss alternative sources they usually mean sources that are an alternative to fossil fuels. Fossil fuels such as coal and petroleum have a finite amount; although vast, the supplies will be depleted at some point. Alternatives to fossil fuels include all of the renewable sources as well as bio fuels, hydrogen, nuclear and ethanol, to name a few. For anyone wanting to live independent or "off the grid" and not have to rely on municipalities and power companies, you will need an energy source that is an alternative to fossil fuels. You as an individual cannot, as a practical matter, mine or harvest your own coal or
It takes technology and money to harness the wind and sun to supply a community with energy and then you are right back to where you have started because you have to rely on your community and then of course it will not be free and in some cases, it may be more expensive. This means you have to start thinking ahead and gain the knowledge and materials to harness your own energy independent of anyone else. It must be a source that you control and one that does not depend on a power grid or power lines.
Getting unbridled from the power grid and creating a self-sustaining household is possible. It Is Not a Matter of “IFâ€? ‌ It's a Matter of WHEN... It seems that natural disasters are more frequent these days or possibly the destruction is more severe; likely a combination of both. Communities, cities and even states are having financial difficulties, which means less money is being spent to upgrade and repair the infrastructure. A band-aid is placed over the problem until the next disaster, which will cause more damage than it should have because of the antiquated power grids. This cycle cannot be broken because of the
enormous expense and the government's reluctance to invest in an infrastructure that relies on fossil fuels. One of these days a storm will come through that completely destroys an already ailing infrastructure.
Natural disasters are not the only problem. Rogue nations have been attempting to hack into the country's power grid for some time; it is only a matter of time before they control our country's power grids. The motives of some of these countries are, of course, the destruction of Western countries and our way of life. They know westerners rely heavily on electricity and clean running water, streetlights and traffic lights. Planes would be grounded and trucks would set idle and subways would be hollow tunnels without trains. The country would come to a halt and millions of people would be literally left in the dark and out in the cold.
Unfortunately, many people don't want to face this reality. We all want to live in a world where there are no worries of disaster or disruption of our way of life, but the threats will not go away simply by ignoring them. It is really only a matter of... when.
Inflation may force some (if not many) to forgo energy at some point. The government certainly wants the country and the world to be less reliant on fossil fuels, which on paper is a noble cause but in reality, the world needs fossil fuels. You, as an individual, do not necessarily need fossil fuels to provide your energy source. There are alternatives that you can consider. However, the trucks and ships that brings the goods to your door need fossil fuels, for the time being anyway. It takes energy to create energy on a massive scale; so to face reality, fossil fuels will be needed for some time yet. You, however, can begin to break the cycle and begin using alternative sources.
Anatomy of a Micro Hydro Generator 101 By Bryan Miller As things get more economically difficult, people are searching out ways to save money and increase their independence for those “just in case” situations. There are many things from water conservation to off-grid survival that are becoming more and more main stream. One of the most popular topics regarding self-sustainability is that of energy independence. As this topic grows, people are looking for ways to get their own alternative energy that is both sustainable and clean. Most would assume that it is both expensive and unattainable to produce their own energy. This is simply not true. You can generate your own electricity using very attainable materials that will pay for themselves within a manner of months, in some instances. In this article, you’re going to be given the fundamentals of building your very own Micro Hydro Generator that could be producing sustainable, clean energy for your home.
General Housekeeping: Please keep two things in mind as you read these pages.
A). You will be given PRINCIPLES, not a method. Have you ever heard the adage, “Give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, feed him for a lifetime”? This is kind of like that. Many times, when someone is given the method by which to do ONE THING (say, blueprints to a particular design), it’s difficult to glean principles that can be applied to other situations to replicate similar results. However, in this article, you are going to be given the tools necessary to build a micro hydro generator specific to YOUR situation with your needs in mind. You will not be replicating a design that is ideal for someone else.
With the principles you will be learning, however, there is nothing to stop you from using, let’s say, wind power to generate energy. In fact, that kind of creative thinking is encouraged. Diversifying your energy production is important in your pursuit of energy independence.
Let’s Lay the Foundation: Energy is never lost, it is just converted. It is this principle that we will be using to take the energy produced by MOTION and storing that as USABLE ELECTRICITY. Every step that lies between these two points is what we’re calling the Micro Hydro Generator; it’s the converter of these two different energies.
How About an Overview: B). You will need a water supply to build a Micro Hydro Generator. This is a big one, but it shouldn’t discourage you from reading. Because the micro hydro generator uses the power of water to produce energy, having a water supply is critical to building a micro HYDRO generator.
A micro hydro generator works by getting water through a “water intake”. The water, once captured, is then channeled through a “penstock” toward the micro hydro generator’s “turbine”. The water is then forced through jets, propelling a “Pelton wheel” that is attached to a motor or alternator.
The water forces the Pelton wheel to spin, this motion is put into the motor and the motor converts the motion to electricity. We can harness this output energy and store it in a battery bank for later use. We’re going over everything from water to turbine in this lesson. In “Anatomy of a Micro Hydro Generator 102” we will go into more depth behind storing the energy that you will produce, and the electronic components that are required. This is the basic overview of the process that takes place; now, let’s dig into the entire system so that you can build this thing to meet your energy needs. Because there are dozens of different designs by which people harness the power of water, we will focus our attention to what we call at HomeMadeVolts.com the “Home Made Micro Hydro System”. It’s a design that is affordable and easy to customize. It is a straight forward and flexible system that most small to moderately large water supplies can use to generate electricity. We will cover 4 main portions of this system. Within each of these components there are subcomponents that will be fleshed out.
Anatomy of the Home Made Micro Hydro System: 1.- Water Supply
IMPORTANT! Make sure you check with your local government to see what the permits and regulations are for running water from a water supply to your micro hydro system. There may be limits on what can be done, and you may be required to secure a permit.
The water supply is where this all starts. If you have water on your property by way of stream or river, you may be entertaining harnessing some of that water to generate electricity. This is a great resource that could save you hundreds of dollars, or even allow you to live off of the grid entirely.
Let’s say that our 5 gallon bucket fills in 15 seconds. Every 15 seconds, the water supply gives 5 gallons. 15 seconds goes into one minute (60 seconds) four times. 5 gallons multiplied four is 20 gallons.
All of the following components hinge on the type and size of the water supply that you have.
One minute = 60 seconds ÷ 15 second fills = 4 fills per minute
A river or stream is really the only type of water supply that can be considered sustainable because the water keeps coming. The amount of water that the stream or river produces also needs to be considered. There are a couple of variables when it comes to seeing if your water supply is up to the task of giving you electricity. You have to know how many gallons per minute your water supply gives you and you need to know how many “feet of head” you have. These values will give you an idea of the kind of power you can produce. a. Finding your Gallons Per Minute (gpm) or “Flow Rate” There are services that can check your water supply’s flow rate very accurately to determine if it is too large or too small to follow the method you’re about to learn. You may also be able to contact your county or city and see if they can supply you with this information. The easiest way to measure, if you can, is by grabbing a 5 gallon bucket, count how many seconds it takes to fill, and then dividing 60 by the amount of seconds it took to fill. Once you have that number, multiply that by 5. That’s how many gallons your water supply produces per minute. Here’s an example of this formula in action:
15 seconds to fill a 5 gallon bucket once
4 fills per minute × 5 gallons = 20 gallons per minute In one minute, our imaginary water supply gives us 20 gallons. We would say our flow rate is 2ogpm. The flow rate is only half of what gives you an idea of how good of a water supply you have. The other half is what is known as the “feet of head”. If your river or stream is larger, we do cover a few different methods for measuring your stream on the blog post titled “When The 5 Gallon Bucket Ain’t Gonna Measure Up” on http:// www.HomeMadeVolts.com b. Measuring the Feet of Head (h/ft) “Head” is another word describing water pressure. Water pressure will ultimately be what forces water through jets that power the motor. The water pressure that the micro hydro generator, although affected by the flow rate, is most greatly influenced by is gravity (unless you use an external pump of some kind) which is why the “feet of head” is very important. Feet of Head is the term that defines the altitude difference of the intake of and the distance to the turbine. If you have a mountain stream, and your water intake is 200 feet higher up the mountain than the turbine, you
would say that you are working with 200 feet of head. Just as there are many ways to measure the flow rate, there are many ways to measure the feet of head that you have. The least expensive, and probably least technologically intensive, is to use a level, some twine or string, and a pole/2×4 marked every foot. You will need someone to assist you. •
Taking your pole/2×4, have a helper hold the pole straight up and down.
•
Have your helper hold the twine at a certain mark.
•
Extend the twine level until it hits the ground directly horizontal to the mark – use a level to check it.
•
Mark the ground.
•
Record the number on the pole. This is how many feet high that mark on the ground is from the bottom of the pole/ 2×4, currently.
•
Place the pole/2×4 back where you marked the ground.
•
Repeat prior steps until you reach water intake.
Once you’ve gotten the feet of head, you may be curious as to what you can expect in terms of PSI. All you need to do is take the feet that you have and multiply it by 0.433. This will give you a rough estimate of what kind of pressure you’ll be getting at the turbine. Once you have the Flow Rate and the Feet of Head figured out you should have a relatively good idea of how good of a water supply you have.
Here’s a formula to check how much potential wattage you could generate: Multiply the feet of head by the gallons per minute, then divide by 11. Multiply that number by 60. This is the kind of wattage you can expect per hour from this water supply. Something to keep in mind: as the feet of head increase, the less you NEED from your flow rate and vice-versa. If you have 10 feet of head, but over 300 gallons of water per minute, then you will still be able to produce electricity. If you have 20 feet of head, but only 6 gallons of water per minute, the amount of power produced will be very small, and you’ll need some creative solutions to increase pressure. If you’ve found that your water supply is sufficient for energy production, then you are ready to begin harnessing your water and getting it to the turbine. The first place your water enters your Micro Hydro Generator system is the “Water Intake”. 2. Water Intake A water intake is just that: where your water will be channeled into the system and transported to the turbine. There are designs out there that have very complicated and sophisticated methods for taking in water. You can research and find everything from self-cleaning systems to simply wrapping hardware mesh around the end of the penstock piping to keep any large debris out of the line. Unless you have a professional installing your generator, let’s assume that a) you don’t have a lot of money to start off with, and b) you’re going to be installing this primarily by yourself and MAYBE with a friend. With these in mind,
building an intake out of PVC and hardware meshing will suffice unless later on you find you need something more sophisticated.
To demonstrate the different intake methods, observe this small dam that acts as an intake to a channel toward a micro hydro generator in Cibuluh, Indonesia. http://www.flickr.com/ photos/scidevnet/ Tailor your water intake to the size of your system as well. If you have a huge system, then you’re going to need to take some time to build an intake that can handle any large items that could run into the piping or maybe clog your system. If you have a smaller system, then keep it simple and inexpensive.
The Principles of the Water Intake: A. The water intake structure should keep debris from getting inside the pipe; especially larger than the jets at the end of the penstock. B. The water intake should be large enough to supply the system with enough water to power the turbine. C. It should not be very expensive and elaborate if it does the first two principles.
3. Pipe/Penstock
Penstock rules are about the same as the intake: don’t overthink it. You do want to make sure that the sizing is right to avoid any loss in pressure. Because friction is another way energy is converted into heat, any motion-energy lost through the piping should be avoided as much as possible.
You’ve read the word “penstock” a few times before this, and you were probably unsure of what it meant. This is basically the long pipe or channel that takes the water from the intake and transports it to the jets that will engage the turbine.
GPM
0-7
Pipe Width 1”
8-15
16-25
26-45
46-75
76-100
101-150
151-200
201-300
301-400
1.25”
1.5”
2”
2.5”
3”
3.5”
4”
5”
6”
Please keep in mind that since we aren’t able to see your exact water supply, the best that we can suggest is estimates. Also, as a suggestion, if you have a short penstock (under 100 feet) increase the width of your pipe by about an inch to ensure that you get enough of your water into the penstock. If you are getting over 75 gpm, however, the penstock width above should be all right. Also, ribbed tubing is not a good idea for a penstock simply because water-friction will be so high that all motion-energy will be lost by the time the water reaches the turbine. PVC or pressurized piping is best.
The Principles of the Penstock: A. The penstock should be PVC pipe or smooth tube that is wide enough to supply the appropriate water to the turbine.
that you should worry about: the jet system, the Pelton wheel, the motor or alternator, and the housing. If you would like to learn about other designs, HomeMadeVolts.com will be going over each in detail in the near future. a. Jet System The Jet System is just another term for the tubing needed to step down your penstock into high-velocity jets that push the Pelton wheel. It doesn’t matter how your jet system looks, as long as you are shooting water at the Pelton wheel hard enough to spin the motor at a certain speed (we’ll get to that in a second). This picture is of a jet system and external housing:
B. Avoid as many curves, corners, and joints as possible as these can cause energy-loss through friction. 4. Turbine We start the turbine at the end of the Penstock or channel. The turbine is probably the most difficult to describe because it is technically the most complicated piece of this puzzle, and at the same time, it is also one of the most customizable. The main function of the turbine system is to spin a motor or alternator, which will convert the motion of the wheel into electricity that we can store. This is the main function and principle behind our Micro Hydro Generator, but it can be done in a variety of ways. If you can think of a creative and inexpensive way to get the wheel to spin at a rate fast enough for energy production, we believe you ought to at least try it out. For this example, however, we will go over a fairly basic design that many low-budget Micro Hydro Generator owners have built using accessible materials for reasonable prices. There are really only four main ingredients to your Micro Hydro Generator turbine
It’s from a design we are developing at HomeMadeVolts.com for people looking to generate electricity who may not have the budget to install a larger system.
The Principles of the Turbine’s Jet System: A. Don’t go for fancy, go for function. It is easy to overthink the jet system.
c. Pelton wheel This is a computer generated rendering of Pelton wheel.
B. Step down to about 20% of the width of the penstock for each jet, experiment with smaller jets if the water velocity isn’t fast enough. C. Jets can be made from PVC connectors that step down in size by about 50%. This creates somewhat of a “nozzle” or jet. b. Housing A Micro Hydro Generator’s housing is nothing more than the case that the turbine is held in. It’s a means by which water isn’t sprayed everywhere, and how elements(,) other than water (,)are kept away from the turbine. In the image above, you can see that we’re experimenting with steel rodding and Plexiglass. Although this is for teaching purposes and may not be how you foresee your micro hydro generator’s turbine housing, it can show you how you can use a little creativity to house your Pelton wheel. Some smaller generators have even used large 5 gallon buckets to house their turbines. This allows the water to shed and then channels it in a specific way, all costing under $10. The housing is also there as an entry point for the jets to be mounted and directed toward the Pelton wheel, which is where we finally take water, convert it to motion.
The Principles of the Turbine’s Housing: Housing needs to be large enough to fit the Pelton wheel in. Housing needs to be sturdy enough to mount a motor or alternator onto. Housing should also channel water back into your water supply so that you are maintaining the ecosystem downstream.
The Pelton wheel, in the basic design that we are discussing, can be described as a very specific fan built for the purpose of catching water rather than air. The blades appear more like spoons and catch the water shot from the jets. This spins the wheel when it is attached to the shaft of the motor or alternator. Pelton wheels can range anywhere between $45 to over $500 depending on the size and design. However, for the low-budget micro hydro generator, a Pelton wheel can be made out of an 8 or 10 inch grinder disk, and some 45 degree PVC elbow joints to create the image above. In the video below, we’ll show you exactly how you can make a Pelton wheel.
The Principles of the Turbine’s Pelton Wheel: A. The Pelton wheel is necessary. B. It can be made with a grinder disk and PVC elbows.
is produced. Then the motor takes over and converts it to energy! But we have to store that energy! And to do that, we’re going to need the help of electronics.
The Principles of the Turbine’s Motor or Alternator:
d. Motor/Alternator The motor is the most important part of the system. It is where motion is turned into electricity. Without going into the mechanics of everything (we’re building a generator, not the motor itself) let’s look at the principle behind the motor.
A. The motor should have a shaft that the Pelton wheel can be mounted to very easily. B. When looking for a motor, find one with low torque and moderate RPM to Voltage/Amperage ratio. Many treadmill motors fit this description and can cost about 70 dollars less than many alternators used in athome generators.
A motor’s basic job is to convert electrical current into some form of action, particularly motion. In the case of the micro hydro generator that we have been discussing, the Pelton wheel is attached to the shaft of a motor or alternator. If we were to connect the motor into an electrical source, the motor would spin the Pelton wheel, converting that electricity into motion. Energy put into the motor is converted to motion. The wonderful thing is that, using the principle that was shared earlier, we can reverse this system knowing that energy is never destroyed or erased, but rather converted.
What? No Electronics?! Because the electronics of a micro hydro generator can be very extensive and complicated, we’ve decided to dedicate an entire “Anatomy of the Micro Hydro Generator 102” SPECIAL for the print version of PREPARE Magazine, where we will discuss the electronic components of storing the energy you are now able to produce!
Motion put into the motor is converted to energy. The reason we’re harnessing all of this water from the water supply is to spin the Pelton wheel that is attached to the motor or alternator. This is how motion
So, let’s get started!
Our Pre-Electricity Roots By Ken Younquist Before the 19th century, our entire civilization existed without the practical use of electricity and was completely sustained without the need of that technology that we enjoy and depend on today. The fundamental property of electricity is "power" and that is used to create light, heat, and the mechanism for communication and data storage, but these elements have historically been accomplished by manual/ analog means. Our society has become dependent on it to sustain our life-style, but in most cases that same society has not passed on the fundamentals of life without it. This could lead to our undoing in the event of a natural disaster or other catastrophic event. Although the elements of wind, water, and solar power provide kinetic and passive energy, fire has been the premier power source down through the ages. Our knowledge of its creation and sustainment is paramount. Could civilization have existed without it?
The readers of my primitive and survival skills articles and students of my classes know that fire-craft is my passion. My website theme is "Teaching the ways and means to survive" and I have developed what I call "Ken's Five Fire Categories" of friction, percussion, optical, electrical and chemical "ways" that fire is made, and the "means" are the techniques of which I have made over 100 combinations to produce fire without the use of matches. I offer this axiom: "birds may know how to fly, but they haven't forgotten how to walk". And so it is with us... we can enjoy the vast capabilities that electricity has provided, but knowing how to live without it is critical. Now is the time to become familiar with fire making methods so that this "power" is available to serve us when the lights go out.
Every Family Should Have a Garden By Jim Kennard If you don't already have a vegetable garden; your family is NOT prepared! And while it may be too late in most locations to begin growing a garden, now is a good time to begin preparing so that next spring you WILL have one. Start now by getting a supply of heirloom seeds that are packaged for long-term storage. See the Foundation website for what we consider to be the best. Also, just a few pounds of sprouting seeds can keep you healthy through the winter. The Mountain Valley Seed Company (from whom we get our Canned Heirloom Garden Seeds) has an excellent selection of sprouting seeds. Seeds and sprouting are subjects deserving of a separate article, but for now let's learn what you can do during the winter months to ensure your success next year. Winter's the time to get ready to grow your own seedlings! It's not really difficult, and can extend
your growing season by many weeks. For example, by planting cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower and other cool-weather crops in February in your basement under grow-lights, you can put large, sturdy transplants into your garden by the end of March or early April, and be eating them when others are just seeing them come up! Great growing instructions can be found in the book “Let's Grow Tomatoes”, a part of the Mittleider Gardening Library CD, and available at www.growfood.com. Remember that photosynthesis (using light, heat and moisture) causes plant growth. Therefore, you must follow a few key natural principles very carefully, or you will be disappointed. First: seeds must have moisture to germinate and grow. And the soil mix must be moist, but not soggy, or you'll drown the new plant, since it must also have oxygen! Second: while heat is essential,
temperatures must be maintained in a narrow range for ideal germination to occur. Most vegetable seeds germinate quickly between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. After plants are up, many of them will grow in cooler temperatures, but most all will become dormant (stop growing) at temperatures below 50 degrees. A simple (preferably rubber or plastic) heating pad with thermostat will ensure that your soil temperature is just right. Third: light is not necessary for seed germination, but as soon as your seedlings begin to emerge from the soil, maximum light is required immediately for proper development. Therefore, to grow in your house, make sure your plants have a strong (but not hot!) light source directly on the plants, for 16 hours per day. Metal Growlight shelves are inexpensive and work great for this purpose. A 6shelf Commercial Chrome Shelving, available from Sam’s Club and other big box stores costs only about $70, and will hold 20
flats of plants. Suspend 4'-long shop lights with 2 cool and 2 warm 40-watt tubes 1/2" above the plants. The fourth principle relates to feeding. A balanced nutrient mix of 13 minerals is essential to plants immediately after germination. Those nutrients are mineral salts and must be very dilute in the soil moisture, otherwise osmosis will cause the salt to draw the lifegiving moisture out of the plants, and they will die. Your soil medium should only have a small The majority of us seeking to be selfreliant overlook the spiritual aspects of life when it comes to our training and preparation. amount of calcium, magnesium, and boron in it, as seeds contain sufficient nutrition beyond that to germinate and begin growing. One ounce of lime, Epsom Salt, and 20 Mule Team Borax in the ratio of 80-4-1 is sufficient for each flat or tray. Water only with plain water until after seeds germinate. To ensure you never burn your plants, water seedlings daily using the "Constant Feed Solution" of one ounce (2 level tablespoons) of Miracle-Gro dissolved in 3 gallons of water. For an even better - and much less expensive solution - look on the Foundation website, under Shop, for Micro-Nutrients and mix according to instructions to get the Mittleider Magic Weekly Feed Mix. Maintain the lights at 1/2" above the growing leaves, and whenever outside temps are above 60 and it's sunny, take your plants out into the sun. But do NOT subject them to cold weather! Next, it is important to separate your small plants before their
leaves begin to overlap with others', or the tiny stems will become very weak and spindly as the plants all stretch - looking for more light. By the time the plants have their first or second true leaf this step should be completed. Failure to act for even a few hours can result in spindly, weak plants that never recover. Transplanting seedlings into 2" 6paks or pots will provide adequate space for them to grow an additional 2-3 weeks, depending on variety. If it's still too early to put them out into the garden by the time plant leaves are again beginning to overlap, then prune the leaves, transplant again into larger pots, or separate pots, so the plant leaves always have maximum light. Before transplanting into the garden, "harden-off" your plants outside, off the ground for 2 to 3 days, to acclimate them to direct sunlight, temperature, wind, etc. This is important so the plant doesn’t have the shock of a new environment added to the shock to its root system caused by transplanting. If the weather turns cold at night, bring the plants back in the house. The temperature adjustment needs to be gradual. For many of your plants, the pruning process does double duty. In addition to ensuring maximum light coverage, it shocks the plant mildly, causing it to pause in its growth and produce a thicker, sturdier stem. This process makes the plant much better able to endure the vicissitudes of the outside environment, such as cutworms, ants, etc. that often quickly decimate plants with weak, spindly stems. For tall-growing plants like tomatoes, be sure to provide small stakes tied to the plant stem to
prevent them from falling over and possibly breaking. And with tomatoes, begin immediately to remove all sucker stems as soon as possible, to ensure a single, strong stem and maximum production from your plant. By using the principles and procedures taught by the Food For Everyone Foundation, you and your family will have a great garden of healthy and delicious vegetables and fruits, thereby preparing your family for whatever the future brings. Let’s get started!
Solar Collector Can Cut Your Electric Bill By: Pierce Jacobson Have you driven around town recently and have you seen some houses with large black panels on the roof? If so, you are looking at one of the ways to not only cut your carbon footprint but also to save money on your electric bill: solar collector arrays.
home. Simply divide the monthly usage figure by 30 and you will know the amount of electricity your home needs daily. Your solar collector system should be large enough to produce at least a day’s needs, plus a buffer of 5 or 10 percent more just for insurance.
Energy experts agree that using a solar collector array is one of the best ways to save money because the array will cut your dependence on electricity, thereby lowering your bills. In addition, if your home is outfitted correctly, it is possible you may make more power than you need and the excess can be sold back to the utility company. Installing a solar collector array is a win-win.
3.Select the proper-sized solar collector array. Major array manufacturers usually have online graphs that will show you the array size you need to install. At this point, you can opt to have them install it or, if you are handy, you can buy the installation kit consisting of the frame, collector panels, parts (such as footings and lag screws and the wiring), the external parts and the internal parts of the charge collector, a properly-sized battery array (to store the direct current that is produced) and the inverter you will need to turn the DC into AC.
Installing a Solar Collector It will probably cost you between $7,000 and $15,000 to install the array but it is a job you can do yourself for less, provided you follow these steps: 1.Find the south-facing portion of your roof. This is the portion of the roof that receives the sun all day. Look in the attic or roof crawl space to find the major roof support joist because you will anchor the solar collector frame to these support points. 2.Determine the amount of electricity your home uses every day. You can accomplish this quickly by looking at your last several electric bills, as they usually include the amount of electricity consumed by your
4.For the installation, 10 to 12inch lag screws will set the footings for the solar collector frame. To do this job properly, you will also need to remember to properly caulk and seal each lag screw you install. The footings will also have to be caulked and sealed to maintain roof integrity. It’s best to drive through each joist so you can install nuts, bolts and washers for good support. You may even want to use a small metal piece to spread the load. This procedure may also be mandatory, depending on your kit’s manufacturer. 5.Set the solar collector frame on the footings you have installed. Since you probably purchased the array from the kit manufacturer, it
will have the flange hardware preinstalled and the properly sized nuts and bolts to tighten the frame to the footings. 6.Next, you attach the solar collector panels to the frame. For this piece of the project, bring in a licensed electrical contractor to raise and install the collector panels. It is likely you will need to show proper panel installation before your town’s building department or utility department will sign off on the installation. The contractor should also handle bringing the wiring through the roof correctly. 7.Now, working inside, install the solar charge collector and battery array. If the kit you choose is finished correctly, it will likely have the collector assembly/ battery array preinstalled on a support platform that fits your ceiling’s support trusses. The battery array should use either lithium-ion or polymer batteries mounted in series with the collector (red to red/black to black, creating the proper bus). This platform should include the power inverter and come prewired, eliminating the major headache of miswiring (which will blow out your entire system). At this point, you will need a licensed electrician to make sure the final installation to your home’s power system is properly completed so it will pass local safety inspection and signoff.
Closing Thoughts We’ve attempted to make these instructions as detailed as possible, including some suggestions as to when you will need to bring in a contractor and when you will need a licensed electrician. If you choose to do-it-all yourself, remember that the final hookups must meet stringent local and state codes. You will likely need a building permit before you even start your project, and a certificate of completion signed off by the town.
Harnessing Wind Power
The two types of wind turbines are vertical and horizontal, and any homeowner that wants to be more selfsufficient, or drop from the grid completely, can choose either one. However, vertical-axis designed wind turbines are ideal for homeowners because the turbines do not need to be facing the wind. Horizontal-axis turbines do need to face the wind direction. In a suburban area, you may not be able to set a wind turbine to face the wind and as trees develop and new structures are built, it may have an impact on wind direction over time as well. Horizontal turbines would be ideal if the homeowner has enough acreage that they control and can face the turbines into the wind.
Illustration courtesy of: www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/engineer/facts/03-047.htm
Turbines are rated on maximum output per hour with a wind speed of between7 and 12 miles per hour; so then how does one determine the sized needed for the typical home? According to the US Census Bureau, the average
sized home in the United States is 2,500 square feet. This, of course, is only an average. However, this will give you some indication of what information is used when manufacturing a wind turbine for residential use. A turbine is
considered a residential power source if it produces between 10,000 and 50,000 kilowatt-hours per year. The average home uses roughly 10,000 kilowatts per year, or 830 a month. Therefore, you have plenty of room to play with when purchasing a typical residential wind turbine and you can be assured of finding one to meet your electricity demands.
Increase in wind speed based on height (Source: US Department of Energy)
Wind turbine kits can be purchased for those that want to install the turbine themselves. To go completely off the grid where you do not rely at all on the power company you will need to do a complete analysis of kilowatts used yearly along with determining your average wind speed for the area. For more information on wind resource data for your area please visit http://energy.gov/scienceinnovation/energy-sources/renewable-energy/wind For wind, area calculations or the actual space required for a turbine please visit http:// www.nrel.gov/analysis/power_databook/ calc_wind.php Many turbines are designed to go on to the home's roof, but you will have to check with local authorities on specific codes and regulations. An 80 to a 120-foot height is recommended for best results because the higher you go the more wind speed you will have. Roof mounted turbines can be affected overtime by tree growth and heavy vegetation in the spring and summer months.
Example of wind speed distribution by hour of the day. Values shown are monthly averages of measurements made by anemometers. (Source: US Department of Energy) The turbine is rotated by wind force, which in turn rotates a shaft that spins an electrical generator. A magnetic gear spins on the end of a high-speed shaft surrounded by copper bindings. The high-speed rotation produces electromagnetic induction. The power is then transferred to battery packs or used directly after being converted to Alternating Current for household use. As with solar panels, residential wind turbines are designed to generate Direct Current (DC) and this must be converted to AC for household use by using a converter/inverter. You will need a battery pack to absorb the surplus and the batteries are used for times when there is not enough electricity generated to meet the power demand.
The 80-120 foot height may not be practical in an urban environment however, so plan carefully to determine if you have adequate ground space to install a wind turbine. Studies have shown that it is more economical to purchase a single wind turbine that meets or exceeds your demand rather than buying two or more.
! You will need a disconnect switch installed so you can electrically isolate the turbine from the system in the event of an overload, or if you have to make repairs or other-wise work on the equipment
By Bill & Janet Liebsch You may think ticks are insects but they’re actually bloodsucking arachnids. Adult ticks have eight legs and two body segments just like spiders, mites and chiggers. According to the CDC, most ticks go through four life stages: egg, six-legged larva, eight-legged nymph, and adult. After hatching from the eggs, ticks must eat blood at every stage to survive. Ticks that require this many hosts can take up to 3 years to complete their full life cycle, and most will die because they don't find a host for their next feeding. And ticks aren’t choosy about their host - they can feed on mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibians.
Ticks suck Did you know… …tick watchers – from foresters to disease ecologists – are reporting a population explosion among black-legged ticks, formerly known as deer ticks, this year?! The cause isn’t clear but it could be due to a bumper crop of acorns that caused an increase of vermin (mice, squirrels, etc.) combined with the mild winter, but ticks are out there … and they’re hungry. …white-footed mice and other small mammals, not deer, are now known by scientists to be major carriers of Lyme disease?! Birds are major carriers, too. … University of Virginia researchers claim a bite from the lone star tick, so-called for the white spot on its back, may trigger an allergic reaction … to meat?!
Nasty suckers Ticks grab onto a host (animals or people walking through brush) and sink their harpoon-like barbed mouth and head into the host’s skin to dine until they’re full of blood. Then they drop off and wait
for the next meal to pass by. Since ticks feast on one spot for days, they can spread bacteria and diseases from host to host (like from animals to humans) - even by touching them. The main threat of ticks is the risk of illness or disease (like Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever or tick paralysis) so the best defense is reducing exposure to ticks or finding and removing them as quickly as possible.
Things to watch for… •Bite or sting mark or ticks •Pain or burning feeling •Redness or Swelling or Rash •Stomach pain or puking •Flu-like symptoms - fever, dizziness, weakness, headache, body aches, swollen lymph nodes, etc.
•Change in skin color or bruising or rash (may look kind of like a bulls-eye)
What to do for removing ticks… Key things are to find a tick before it feasts for days and to remove a tick slowly with head intact so it doesn’t spew bacteria into the blood stream.
•DO NOT use petroleum jelly, liquid soap, nail polish or heat they don’t work! •Use tweezers or commercial tick remover (or at least cover fingers with a tissue). •Grasp tick close to skin where head is buried - don’t squeeze it! • Slowly pull tick straight up until skin puckers -- it may take several seconds but tick will loosen its barbs and let go.
•Wash bite wound and tweezers with soap and water. • Call local health department or vet to ask if tick needs to be identified or tested. If not, throw away baggie. • Watch for rash, infection or symptoms for a week or so.
Things to do to avoid ticks … • Wear light-colored pants and long-sleeve shirt (to see ticks), a hat (to keep out of hair) and tuck in (pants in socks and shirt in pants). • Do full body checks a couple times a day during tick season. • Use tick repellent with DEET.
Helpful Resources & Sources: CDC’s Ticks site http:// www.cdc.gov/ticks/
• DO NOT throw tick away since it may need to be tested! Put it in a zippered baggie with moist paper towel, date it, and put in refrigerator.
CDC’s Lyme Disease page www.cdc.gov/lyme/ CDC NCID’s Division of VectorBorne Diseases site at www.cdc.gov/ncezid/dvbd/
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Review: SOS Solar Sport Solar Oven This is an excerpt from the review which can be read in its entirety at: SOS Solar Sport review
Field Testing: The SOS Solar Sport is easy to transport and set up. It has two positions, one for Summer sun (low and wide) and one for Winter sun (higher and more narrow). It has a wide, stable base, not prone to tip-overs in the wind. In full Summer sun, the SOS Solar Sport heats up to about 200 degrees slowly, but easily. However, a side-byside field test with the Global Sun Oven revealed that the SOS heated up more slowly and did not attain the higher temperatures of the GSO. The SOS Sport also did not retain temperatures as well as the Global Sun Oven.
Overall: The SOS Solar Sport is an effective solar oven under certain conditions and with certain considerations;
however, the! concerns regarding design and material flaws and the problems encountered during field testing yielded a less than stellar product review score. For the price, the SOS Solar Sport is only recommended with warnings and we recommend readers read our side-by-side review of the SOS Solar Sport and the Global Sun Oven.
Conclusion: The SOS Solar Sport is recommended only with warnings.
Preparation: From A Pastor’s Perspective Preparation through Emotional Unity - by: Rev. Jeff Rowland Think about the emotional stability that would be lost be facing economic collapse. Think about our emotional stability during all-out war. Can we even imagine the emotional structure of a nation or of any people during famine or a breakout of disease? # Preparing the necessities for life is only part of true preparation. You can have everything you need for survival but if we haven’t prepared our heart then we will radically be changed in our personality and begin to respond to adversity in ways we had not previously known was in us. One of the things I have learned concerning walking out my own salvation through Jesus Christ is that I was not only introduced to Him as my Redeemer and Lord, but He started me on a journey to introduce me to me. The more I know about me the less impressed I am. I’ve learned my vulnerabilities, weaknesses, and what I see lets me know that I need Jesus more today than ever. # The scriptures teach us a truth concerning the way we function as people. We do the things we do because we think the way we think, and we think the way we think because we feel the way we feel. The only way to change what we do is to change the way we think, and the only way to change the way we think is to change the way we feel. Now add the adversity that is sure to come in our lives and we have fed our emotions chaos and confusion which in turn will affect our thought life and will change our behavior. # The only way we can make good decisions is to stabilize our emotions to feel in agreement with truth so that we can think thoughts of truth therefore actions of truth will come forth. Jesus said, “Come unto me all ye that labor and are heavy laden and I will give you
rest.” It is simply amazing the power that statement has to those who possess it. What our Lord is saying is that we are fragmented and torn apart by the process of life. This fragmentation has caused the loss of rest and peace. If the challenges we are facing could be described as anything they would be characterized by the loss of peace and rest in our soul. Jesus says, if we will come to him. That is we place our faith in Him and develop relationship with him, then he will take the pieces of our self and put us at one with or in unity with our self. The truth of this verse is that in Christ Jesus alone can we find true emotional stability in order to cause us to think right, feel right, and act right. This preparation could be the most important step anyone could ever make. What if I could introduce you to one who could rain bread down from the sky to feed you and bring water out of a rock for your thirst? Would you be interested in getting to know Him? What if I could introduce you to someone who could give you water that you would never thirst again? What about someone who could stop the wind from blowing and calm the sea? I got to tell you that is where real peace begins. He is such a one that has all the power of heaven and earth. Get prepared today by allowing Him to set you at one with yourself and bring the stability to your own emotions that is needed for your heart to be ready for the days ahead.
Author Bio's Jim Kennard
is the President of Food For Everyone Foundation (501)(c)(3) Charitable Foundation. Mission - "Teach the world to grow food one family at a time" with the world-renowned Mittleider Method.
Bill & Janet Liebsch are the founders of FedHealth, a publishing and marketing company formed in 1999 to help the public focus on preparedness and healthrelated issues. We also are the authors, copyright owners and publishers of "IT'S A DISASTER! ...and what are YOU gonna do about it?" and are dedicated to developing programs that primarily benefit First Responders, schools and volunteers. Get a sample of the content with this free mini-ebook HERE
Ken Youngquist
is the creator of Survivaltek, a website dedicated to teaching the ways and means to survive. From his youth, Ken was captivated by primitive living skills, and in his adulthood was intrigued by the television Series MacGyver. The result has been the study and practice of survival skills and the desire to pass on the mantle of preparedness to others. You can visit and learn more at: Survivaltek.com.
Trent Powers is a freelance writer and adventure enthusiast. He spends much of his time researching and testing survival skills and techniques. As an avid outdoorsman and homesteader, Trent believes that putting skills into practice now will provide for a more peaceful future.
Rowland is an Evangelist,Preacher, Author and Accomplished Songwriter. Jeff is from Chillhowie, VA,and comes from a preaching and singing family. He sang with his family until joining the US Army as a member of the 82nd Airborne. While in the military, Jeff surrendered into the ministry and was ordained in 1985. After leaving the Army, Jeff has served as a Pastor and Evangelist, and now travels full-time, extensively across the United States sharing the gospel of Jesus Christ and the message God has given him for Preparation in these Last Days. For more from Jeff visit: JeffRowlandMinistry.com
Bryan Miller
is an integral member of a team launching a movement toward achieving better at-home alternative energy through do-it-yourself methods for families and individuals. http:// www.homemadevolts.com
Vickilynn Haycraft
is the hostess of the Get Real – Get Prepared radio show on PRN. She is the author of: Wrapping It Up! and co-author of Naturally Healthy Cuisine, Real Food for Real Families. Vickilynn is a sought-after independent product tester and book reviewer delivering accurate, honest, and trustworthy reviews on products and books for the whole family. Subscribe to Vickilynn at: RealFoodLiving.com, National Product Review Examiner, National Family Preparedness Examiner.
Jeff Rowland Reverend Jeff
Jason A. Hunt
is the President of Frontier Christian University a school that equips believers for wilderness, survival and preparedness ministries for the end-times. He is also the Chief Instructor at Kentucky River Bushcraft where he offers courses in a variety of outdoor subjects. To learn more visit him online at www.kyriverbushcraft.com
Community Connections
These groups have meetings in February 2013 PACIFIC East Ventura Area Citizens Support – Simi Valley, CA Paracord Emergency Survival Bracelets Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 11:00 AM
Northwest PHX Valley Survival Preparedness Group - Peoria, AZ Disaster Survival Strategies - Part 1 Intro Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 12:30 PM MIDWEST
NORTHWEST Sno-Isle 9/12 Project Lake Stevens, WA Marysville Community Safety Forum - Expecting the Worst: Emergency Preparedness Thursday, February 7, 2013 7:00 PM Denver's Urban Survival Network - Denver, CO Monthly Social Meet-up Sunday, February 10, 2013 - 5:00 PM SOUTHWEST Central Texas Preppers – New Braunfels, TX
Cincinnati Survival/ Preparedness Group Milford, OH Survival gardening/ container gardening Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 2:00 PM Southern Indiana Preppers - Sellersburg, IN Bee keeping and Honey Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 9:00 AM Northwest Indiana Preppers - Saint John, IN Master Gardener Speaker This Month
Meet / Greet - Spring Garden Started - SEED EXCHANGE
Thursday, February 7, 2013 - 6:00 PM
Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 11:30 AM
Fox Valley Preppers Appleton, WI
Emergency Ready Group Thursday, February 7, 2013 - 6:30 PM to 7:45 PM Eastern & Central Iowa Preppers - Cedar Rapids, IA Building self-watering container gardens Sunday, February 10, 2013 3:00 PM Self Sustainable and Self Reliant - Imperial, MO Hands on first aid Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 3:00 PM to 5:00 PM SOUTHEAST WNC Preparedness Group - Asheville, NC Monthly Meeting Disaster First Aid Primer Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM Southeastern Preppers Savannah, GA Basic Prep 101 Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 2:00 PM
Community Connections
These groups have meetings in February 2013 NORTHEAST Massachusetts Survival and Primitive Skills Cambridge, MA February All Levels Winter Outing Saturday, February 2, 2013 7:00 AM to Sunday, February 3, 2013, 2:00 PM Southeast Michigan Preppers Network – Livonia, MI Bartering and Money Saturday, February 2, 2013 - 9:15 AM to 12:00 PM
WNY-FREE Group Tonawanda, NY 'Truth Seekers' Film Series: "What in the World Are They Spraying?" Saturday, February 2, 2013 6:00 PM Nutmeg Prepper – Farmington, CT Begin Preparedness Planning Tuesday, February 5, 2013 - 7:00 PM to 9:00 PM
Southeastern Pennsylvania Survivalist and Bush-craft - Mohnton, PA Snares & Traps Saturday, February 16, 2013 - 10:00 AM SURVIVE AND THRIVE - Philadelphia Region – Philadelphia, PA HAZMAT!! Nuke/ Chem/Bio preps on a tight budget Sunday, February 24, 2013 - 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM
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PREPARATION BLOG (800) 824-4655 (828) 536-4988 www.millersgrainhouse.com/store
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