Travel Europe by Prerna Ashok

Travel

EUROPE Issue 1

LA DOLCE VITA HEAVEN ON EARTH SPANISH DELIGHTS VIVE LA FRANCE! MERRY ENGLAND Attractions ǁ Gastronomy ǁ Shopping ǁ Reviews

Disclaimer All content and photography © Prerna Ashok

Editor’s letter Travelling around Europe is for many people a rite of passage. Whatever your intentions for discovering the wonders of Europe—whether it’s to discover the culinary delights of Italy, learn the language of love in France, or find out more about your roots and ancestors—it is something that has to be done at least once in a lifetime. There are countless guidebooks, magazines, blogs and forums that all contain valuable information about what to do and see in each and every country. But there is no greater delight than discovering for yourself a fabulous restaurant or cafe, boutique or garden. It is a fact that the best way to experience another culture is to live and breathe it as the locals do. And the locals know the best places to eat, shop and visit. The number one tip that any experienced traveller will give is to go with an open mind and make friends with the locals, or if you’re only travelling for a short time talk to the hotel maids, neighbourhood shop owners and grocers because they will have information that is hard to come by in guidebooks. The restaurants and cafes reviewed in this magazine were all recommended by word-of-mouth, locals and expats. Another source of valuable information when travelling are the young tour guides, who are often students or people who are taking gap years. They are more than willing to share their own travelling experiences and stories, and will advise on how to avoid the tourist traps and pitfalls.

Contents 8 Italy 15 Switzerland 22 Spain 29 France 38 England

Finally, remember that it is the journey and not the destination that is important. Take every bad experience with the good and share your discoveries. Share your knowledge and unique experiences so that the secrets and delights of Europe can be discovered by others. Bon voyage!

Prerna

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A man who has not been in Italy

is always conscious of an inferiority.â&#x20AC;? Samuel Johnson

FEATURE ǁ Italy

Italy Indulge in the unique culture, food and way of life in Italy as you explore the cobbled lanes, waterways and alleyways that lead to the more unexpected and delightful shops, cafés and boutiques.

ome the Eternal City. Eternal beauty and eternal history. The Colosseum, although large and imposing sneaks up in the peripheral vision cementing arrival in Rome. Wind down the taxi windows and the smell of cigarettes and tomatoes surrounds you. At this point traffic stops and starts unexpectedly to accommodate kamikaze tourists and chic Romans on Vespas zipping around, the jerks heightened by the cobblestones. The sky is blue, the sun beats down and the heaving masses of tourists grow as the morning progresses. But the chic Roman women don’t bat an eyelid, in their unofficial uniform of tailored black pants, crisp white shirts and heels—and never getting caught between cobblestones. The men stride through the streets in their tailored suits and designer bags without breaking a sweat. Everyone is greeted with a friendly ‘Ciao!’ and is seen off with ‘Grazie, prego’. Everyday buildings and offices are a piece of art with histories and stories of the past and statues of famous Italian artists, composers, politicians and scientists on almost every street and corner stare sternly into the distance. As the day passes on and the heat dissipates the cool breeze gently guides us into ristorantes and trattorias where waiters and maître‘ds literally sweep potential patrons off their feet into seats. In the blink of an eye a serviette is dropped into laps and a carafe of vino rosso placed on the table. The menus are simple with few choices but the flavours and freshness are a welcome treat. Customers seated al fresco watch the world go by, slowing down for the most important meal of the day. Weary tourists plop themselves into vacant seats, gallant Romans make polite conversation with the waiter on guard before being shown to the best seat in the house. In the ristorantes, primi, or entrees, is a pasta dish, which is then followed by secondi, the main meat or vegetable dish with a salad accompaniment. Dessert can be an indulgence by way of a slice

of tiramisu, fruit tart, or gelati, but it can also be as simple as crunchy almond biscuits dipped in sweet dessert wine. For travellers on a budget, a pizzeria or trattoria is a more informal option, but still a wonderful way to experience the gastronomic delights of Italian cuisine. To end the day, an espresso with grappa is the norm for Italian gentlemen but a latte, cappuccino or macchiato along with a digestif such as limoncello is also acceptable. When the tourists return to their hotels at a reasonable hour, preparing themselves for another hard day of hitting the pavements and seeing the sights, the Italians are just starting the night—a common occurrence in many European cities. The sounds of laughter and conversation carry long into the night, but it is a soothing somewhat comforting sound on a balmy night.

rom the heaving streets of Rome to the inaudible murmurs that carry through he ancient city of Florence the differences in lifestyle and culture are almost immediate. Afternoon siestas are taken seriously in this part of the world, the locals are more formal and polite, and the only people ambling around in the afternoon heat are the tourists. The lines to the Uffizi Gallery and to see Michelangelo’s David are endless. Street artists scoff quietly at restless children in line who claim that the wonders inside can easily be viewed on the on the Internet. The smell of cigarettes and leather are constant in Florence and leather goods are hawked on every street corner. Aperitivo is a concept that many new bars are embracing and has taken the locals and tourists by storm. Between 7 and 9pm patrons buy cocktails at the standard price but they are also entitled to help themselves to the leftovers from lunch that are placed out tapas style— these include pasta, salads, sandwiches, bread, and cold meats. 8

FEATURE ǁ Italy

‘The panoramic views are complemented by the food and wine served at an organic farm and vineyard.’

Tuscany is one of Italy’s most beautiful regions, with unforgettable sceneries, quaint medieval towns and villages and rolling vineyards. Siena, once the economic capital of Europe is now famous for the Palio horse races twice a year. The Piazzo del Campo is an unusually designed town centre but there is something magical about the warm colours, the charming gift stores, intricate street lamps and architecture. The labyrinth streets only heighten the excitement of the explorer and the possibilities that lie ahead.

fronts, elegant boutiques, elaborate and luxurious costume shops, and pizzerias and trattorias tucked away. There is a perpetual scent of vanilla and baking in the air and the air shimmers from the coloured glass and crystals that decorate the city. The markets are a feast for the senses with fishmongers, grocers and butchers singing their wares to potential customers. Locals can be found haggling with the vendors and critically appraising the produce while tourists buy boxes of fresh berries to snack on.

n the Chianti region the panoramic views are complemented by the food and wine served at an organic farm and vineyard. The rustic bruschetta drizzled with olive oil, home made Bolognese that coats the al dente pasta, cured ham, crumbling cheese, salad dressed with tangy-sweet balsamic vinegar and almond biscuits in the beautiful setting epitomise La Dolce Vita. If that wasn’t enough, the next stop is a short bus ride to San Gimignano where the world’s best gelati comes from. The ubiquitous chocolate flavoured gelati and the unique champagne and saffron gelati are a heavenly combination.

The most relaxing activity in Venice is to sit on the steps in Saint Mark’s square with a bottle of Bellini and let Vivaldi, Pucini and other Italian classical music wash over you adding to the fantasy and atmosphere of Venice.

The Piazza dei Miracoli in Pisa is a sight to behold; cheesy photos aside, the Duomo, Campanile, Camposanto and Bapistry co-exist harmoniously as a medieval art and religious site.

rom the tranquillity of Tuscany to vibrant Venice, the changes are once again noticeable. Venice is much like Rome with tourists and locals competing for space but most surprisingly avoiding the obvious hazard of falling into the murky canal. While the romance of the gondola ride is somewhat diluted now with gondoliers tapping away on their mobile phones while rowing, there is still romance to be found on the islands. The cobbled streets are lined with whimsical and decorative shop 9

The islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello are a contrast to the glamour of Venice but there is beauty in their rugged, rustic buildings and hardworking glassblowers and lace makers. Watching the calloused, burned, gnarly hands transform whitehot bulbs into delicate artefacts and souvenirs, and spools of cotton into intricate designs is astounding. In Italy, if the food is well cooked, if the wine is good and the music good then nothing else matters. That’s amore!

Travel Tip: When in Rome...Forget concierges and information booths; ask the hotel maids and bungarellas in the street where they eat if you want to try inexpensive authentic food.

REVIEW Ç Italy

Ristorante da Nazzareno - Via Magenta 35/37 ROMA Hospitality at its best in Rome. Authentic Italian food with intense, bold flavours. The staff, including the owner are only too happy to guide through the menu and suggest wines that complement the food. The restaurant has a friendly, warm atmosphere which is infectious. www.danazzareno.com

Moyo - Via deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Benci 23/r FIRENZE Happy Hour has never been happier at Moyo where patrons can help themselves to tapas-style food when they buy a cocktail from the extensive menu. Although the concept is geared towards students and the younger demographic, everyone is welcome to relax at the funky bar. The food is simple, but satisfying. This is a unique modern dining experience in the ancient town of Florence. www.moyo.it

Gelateria di Piazza - Piazza della Cisterna 4 SAN GIMIGNANO As the winner of the Gelato World Championship, this tiny shop in the main square of San Gimignano has lines extending and winding all around the square. But the wait is worth it to try one of their specialities; Crema di Santa Fina, Champelmo and Dolceamaro. www.gelateriadipiazza.com

REVIEW ǁ Italy

â&#x20AC;&#x153;My rank is the highest known in

Switzerland: I’m a free citizen.” George Bernard Shaw

FEATURE ǁ Switzerland

Heaven on Earth Chocolate, cheese and unspoiled beauty make Switzerland the perfect place to escape to from the hassles and worries of reality.

witzerland has been described as ‘heaven on earth’…the lush scenery, snow capped mountains disappearing into the sky and cuisine would certainly make it so. The cooler climate is a welcome change from the blazing Mediterranean sun as the unspoiled beauty of the mountainous terrain flies past. Clocks have been set by the faultless Swiss transport system. The lucky inhabitants of Morges are rewarded with a spectacular view of lights in the town of Evian on the other side of the lake. The even luckier have holiday homes nestled in the mountains and perched precariously on ledges that afford majestic views of the mountainside with the wind and babbling brooks and creeks the only sounds for miles.

eneva is a breath of fresh air—the water is cool, and the clean sharp lines of the city centre reflect the efficiency and resourcefulness of the people that live here. It is truly an international city with residents from all over the world with shops, banks and international organisations to cater for the diverse needs. Despite the variety, there is still an aura of peace and tranquillity, especially around Lake Geneva where the Jet d’Or lights up the night. To experience the true Swiss culture, one must head out to the smaller towns and villages.

ermatt is a popular tourist destination, not just to see the majestic Matterhorn, but for the train ride itself. Where else but Switzerland could you find a golf course in a valley or a lone holiday cottage perched precariously on a mountain ledge? The train ride is a cautious one, but enjoyable. Zermatt is a quaint village, free from commercial enterprises and filled with friendly people and sole bakeries, cafes and shops. It is a town straight out of a fairy tale with thatched roof cottages, 15

flower boxes in balconies, horses and carts, gardens, creeks, and of course the majestic mountains framing the horizon. Tourists in this region are few but the locals continue their daily life around the majestic views like water flowing around the rocks that are visitors struck by the awesome sights. Another train ride up to see the Matterhorn and you are literally on top of the world. The only sounds to be heard in the dazzling white surrounds are the wind and murmurs of awe-struck tourists. Visitors have the option of taking the train back down or hiking down one of numerous trails. It would be a crime not to sample some of the homemade goods while in Zermatt and many of the bakeries offer simple, but delicious and fresh savoury and sweet options. The cafes and teahouses also make wonderfully flavoured and spiced hot chocolates and coffees. Perfect for après hike.

ausanne in contrast is an unexpectedly festive town, especially in the summer during the City Festival. There are a number of public events and entertainment and the locals take advantage of the warm days and cool nights. It is all too easy to drop into one of the al fresco seats at hotels around the lake and spend the afternoon there with a drink and good company. As the sun sets, the stalls and stages around the ancient cathedral attract the crowds with delicious smells and tunes of mixed variety. The avant-garde projections and installations as well as interactive art are a stark contrast to the cobbled lanes and timeworn facades of the surrounding edifices. The party continues long into the night with many bars and pubs rapidly filling to capacity. Peace and assurance is easy to come by in this beautiful, serene country—it’s no wonder the Swiss guard their haven so jealously.

REVIEW Ç Switzerland

Fuchs - Getwingstrasse 24 ZERMATT With three branches in Zermatt and 40 years experience Fuchs is a deliciously convenient eatery in this charming little town. Their specialities include chocolate, breads, pastries and savoury snacks. www.fuchs-zermatt.ch

Darioli Tea Room - Bahnhofplatz 2 ZERMATT A quaint little tea room with intersting twists on flavours and teas. A fantastic place to warm up before catching the train. darioli@gmx.ch

Creperie la Chandeleur - Rue Mercerie 9 LAUSANNE A popular restaurant with a vast variety of crepes and unimaginable flavour combinations. The menu includes savoury and sweet options as well as salads and sandwiches. Reservations are advisable but the staff are welcoming and accommodating.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;In Spain, the dead are more alive than

the dead of any other country in the world. Federico Garcia Lorca

FEATURE ǁ Spain

Viva España! Heat, passion, and rustic beauty are reflected in all aspects of Spanish culture—from music, food, language, and of course, the Spaniards.

pain is an interesting country with language and food more delicate than the robust Italians but stronger than that of the French. The passionately creative Spaniards are not afraid to test the boundaries, with pioneers like Gaudi, Dali, and Picasso setting the standards for art, architecture and even philosophy. The city of Barcelona once used to be a small fishing port filled with prostitutes and dreamers. Now it is transformed into a vibrant cosmopolitan metropolis where artists, musicians, designers, architects and even businesses assemble to keep the city moving forward. Barcelona is a city of unexpected sights and delights—in between ancient buildings and grey facades visitors find a modern construction with curving walls and distorted perspective. In the Old City the city’s history of violence and political conflict is preserved on walls and in tucked away squares where people now find peace and tranquillity in the bustling city. This is a city where the old traditions of Spain and new fringe performers co-exist in harmony. Barcelona is the only city where tourists can view flamenco and guitar performances in the sumptuous music halls and then walk out into the street where a variety of street performers showcase juggling, unicycle, musical, and other talents. The main streets and boulevard cater to tourists with kitschy souvenir stalls and grossly overpriced restaurants. One must wander down the narrow snaking alleys and ignore the uncertainty in order to find the true, unique flavours of Spain. Apart from the ubiquitous tapas bars, pintchos bars are also an exceptional Spanish tradition originating in the Basque region. Although similar to tapas bars in the sense that this is finger food eaten standing at the bar, the food is similar to hors d’oeuvres

and finger food, whereas tapas requires plates, cutlery and often involves hot food or food cooked to order. Although the portions are small, the food is substantial and often washed down with a glass of regional wine or glass of sangria. During the summer, the crowds gather at Barcelonetta and surrounding man-made beaches (the sand and palm trees are imported from Egypt) to cool down and in the evenings the restaurants along the main promenade start filling with tourists hungry for authentic paella and sangria as well as other tapas delicacies. It is a well-known fact that the locals eat late meals and party well into the night—a common occurrence in the Mediterranean countries. On the other side of the city a visit to Pueblo Espanyol gives tourists a taste of all of Spain in the form of a village that showcases the architecture and craftsmanship of each region. A visit to the Sagrada Familia is also a must—it encapsulates Gaudi’s way of thinking and the way he saw the world, or is it his utopia?

rom the fantasy and surrealism of Barcelona to Madrid, where the sun beats down mercilessly and the city delicately showcases its beauty and culture. The Prado museum here showcases an interesting variety of art but this is a city where politics and commerce reign. There are stories of conflict and negotiation throughout the city and protesters petitioning for change often occupy the Puerta del Sol. The Plaza Mayor and surrounding areas boast a bloody history involving kings, politicians and the Spanish Robin Hood. Wander down the narrow winding lanes of La Latina and discover cosy bars and pubs where writers and artists would seek inspiration and nourishment. Nowdays students and backpackers settle themselves at the bar prepared to sit and drink through 22

FEATURE ǁ Spain

‘It is a well-known fact that the locals eat late meals and party well into the night’

football games that go on well into the night. Madrid is a harsher city, perhaps the people here feel the effects of the GFC more than the Catalunians. The people here are less welcoming of tourists who get in the way of another protest.

Travel Tip:

Even in the famous Chocolateria San Gines the waiters have grim expressions that indicate difficult times. Despite this, celebrities, locals and the few lucky tourists come here to escape the heat and try the world famous churros con chocolat—deep fried dougnuts that you dip into glossy dark chocolate.

It is worth your while learning a few Spanish phrases that will get you by at tapas bars, pubs, and the markets.

The bleak atmosphere of the city is lightened considerably as the sun sets—the bars and restaurants gradually fill up with office workers and locals who delve into the culinary delights accompanied by a glass of Rioja wine. But this is just the beginning of the night. The laughter and chatter echoes in the streets long into the night and early hours of the morning.

Spain is an extraordinarily diverse country with different languages, cuisines, culture and lifestyles from region to region. There is a great deal to explore and discover in this hospitable country that caters to every desire.

eaving the booming metropolis behind the bus ride to the medieval town of Toledo gives the traveller a chance to appreciate the Spanish countryside—rugged and barren but peaceful and filled with hardworking farmers and agriculturalists. Like most medieval towns and villages, Toledo is protected by an imposing barricade, which hides the winding cobbled lanes and crumbling stucco buildings and cathedral. Despite the primordial state of the town, there is an array of modern restaurants and bars showcasing some unique food combinations and flavours. The only people out in the streets under the blazing sun are tourists. But it is not unusual to see a lone Spaniard slowly making his way back home for a siesta.

REVIEW ǁ Spain

Bar Joan Esmorzars - Mercato Santa Caterina 108-110 BARCELONA One of the few authentic tapas bars where you can wander around the market and see exactly where the ingredients come from. This bar features a typical tapas menu and wines from all regions of Spain to suit your tastes. The staff are friendly and willing to explain each dish, while the chefs prepare omelettes and fritters to order in front of your eyes. This is a dining experience for all the senses.

El Madroño - Plaza de Puerta Cerrada 7 MADRID This cozy restaurant is famous for the city’s namesake liquor served in ecofriendly wafer glasses lined with dark chocolate. It has a fruity flavour with herb undertones and is an excellent digestif. Patrons can also sample gazpacho, Spanish meatballs and ratatouille. The food is a remarkable representation of Spanish cuisine with delicate aromas and herbs but robust unforgettable flavours.

El Trébol - Calle Santa Fe 1 TOLEDO Tucked away in an alley in the city of Toledo, El Trébol is a fantastically modern restaurant and tapas bar with fusions of old and new. The patatas bravas, stuffed meatballs, and pate all come with an unexpected twist of flavour and texture. A culinary delight coupled with courteous staff and a relaxed atmosphere.

REVIEW Ç Spain

El Rey de la Gamba Uno - Paseo Joan Borbo 46-48 BARCELONA One of many al fresco dining options on the Barcelonetta bay that offers tapas and paella options. The portions are farily substantial; one serve on paella can easily serve three or four people and the tapas options are best ordered to share amongst everyone. A pitcher of sangria is a must to complete the summer Spanish dining experience. elreydelagamba.net

Taberna Txakolina - Calle Cava Baja 26 MADRID Although a Basque culinary concept, there are Pintchos bars scattered throughout Spain. This particular bar in the heart of Madrid caters for the refined palate with unusual toppings and experimental combinations. After 7pm this bar is filled with chic Spaniards whose sole purpose is to enjoy good food, good wine and good company. www.tabernatxakolinamadrid.com

Chocolateria San Gines - Pasadizo de San Gines 11 MADRID For the ultimate churros experience this tucked-away cafe is popular with tourists, locals and celebrities. The walls are plastered with photos of Spanish and international celebrities who have satisfied their churros cravings at this inconspicuous cafe.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;France cannot be France

without greatness.â&#x20AC;?

Charles de Gaulle

FEATURE ǁ France

Vive la France! The City of Lights, the City of Love, Gastronomic capital, Fashion capital, Wine capital...France has it all.

ashion, food, wine, l’amour…it can only be France. With millions of visitors each year, France has something for everyone. Lyon, the second largest city in France, is an interesting mix of old and new. It is also the gastronomic capital of the world with food to excite the tastebuds everyday. It is best not to ask for detailed explanations of what the andouillette sausages are stuffed with, or the crispy bits of meat in the salad. Vieux Lyon or the old city retains the architecture and charm from centuries past with bouchon lyonnaise and boutiques as unique as the traboules in the area. The traboules are alleyways hidden behind heavy oak doors that lead out into unexpected lanes and cobbled streets. Some of the apartment buildings through which the traboules run are open for visitors to discover the secrets and delights that traboules hold. In the new city there are museums to cater for all interests, from trains to fabric to art showcasing pieces from around the world as well as France. After a day of sightseeing and shopping travellers can settle themselves at an outdoor bar in the Place Bellecour and sip on a panache while watching the world go by.

aris has been written about, filmed and philosophised a great deal to discover what makes it so alluring and the ideal place for dreamers and artists to be inspired. Every bridge has a story and history—the Pont des Beaux Arts is a romantic spot where couples can declare their love to the world by way of a lock with their initials on it. Unfortunately, the Parisian police are not as sentimental and every year they cut and throw away the locks, save for a few special ones. On Bastille Day the city comes to life under the brilliant blue sky—while tourists clamber for front row seats along the Champs Elysees, privileged Parisians pop out on their balconies and 29

windows, with a few rooftop parties taking place as well. The trees and scaffolding along the avenue are also dotted with people perched precariously waiting for a glimpse of Sarkozy. The crowds dissipate for the day allowing the tourists to roam the streets and continue admiring Paris. Crossing the Seine to the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank there is a noticeable generation change with lines of students extending down the streets from bookstores. The Latin Quarter and Left Bank is very different to the Right Bank and its affluence—the streets are narrower and meander through the city. The celebrated suburb of Saint Germain-des-Pres has an overwhelming number of boutiques, chocolatiers, delis and patisseries to satisfy fashionistas and gourmands—the fashion stores range from high end luxury brands to up and coming local designers; the delectable macarons and truffles advertised in the windows are irresistible and the cafes are packed with Parisians doing what they do best: watching the world go by. At Café de Flore the waiters are welcoming and polite; the hot chocolate is a little polished pot of heaven and with each sip the drinker is rewarded with new pleasures for the senses. Walking through the Luxembourg Gardens and crossing over to the suburb of Montparnasse there are plaques on the buildings pronouncing the birth and death of famous writers and artists. The locals are only too keen to help with directions, but only to those who attempt to speak French and will point you in the direction of Rue Montparnasse where the street is lined with speciality crepes restaurants. Every suburb of Paris has a High Street or Market Street where locals can buy fresh produce, wine, cheese, bread and other goods, but there are only few famous bakeries and patisseries

FEATURE ǁ France

that have been open for business longer than the Eiffel Tower has been in existence. The suburb of Montmartre is another suburb famous for its meandering cobbled lanes and hilly terrain. Again this area is populated with young people seeking to make their own mark in this popular city—wander off the beaten track and you’ll find yourself at casual restaurants run by these enterprising men and women. Some of which have funky personalities and address patrons in the familiar and are not afraid to show off that they’re having a good time. The food is also an unusual fusion of experimental and country style—pate floating on egg, duck with raspberry and Grandma’s chocolate cake are a few examples. Overlooking Montmartre and Paris is Sacre Coeur and further down the road is the red light district and the Moulin Rouge, this is an area that has surprised, delighted and excited many tourists. As twilight falls and the City of Lights lives up to its name, it is the best time of day to take a ride down the Seine on one of the Bateaux Mouches or Bateaux Parisians with commentary rich in historical detail, it is the easiest and more pleasant way of seeing the attractions around the river. A trip to Paris isn’t complete without a visit to the museums and galleries—Parisians and travellers in the know make their way to Louvre, buy tickets and see the Mona Lisa in under an hour (which includes Metro time). But the Mona Lisa is a fraction of the wonders the Louvre holds; there are other impressive pieces and tableaus on display and one could spend an eternity examining these works. After the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsy is a must-see, if not for the impressionist works, the station itself is an awe-inspiring building with sumptuous rooms and décor.

ravellers weary from all the walking push on at the magnificent Palace of Versailles and the extensive gardens. The sheer number of styles and replications of gardens from around the world is mind-boggling and more impressive than the palace interiors. There are fountains and statues inspired from Greek Mythology and heroes of the past, a sight to behold. There is always something new to be discovered in France that takes the world by storm. There is plenty to see and do and contrary to popular belief, the French are not arrogant or rude; they are merely proud of their culture and visitors need to respect them for this. A friendly ‘Bonjour’ and smile go a long way…

Travel Tip: The common misconception about the French is that they are rude and arrogant. Use this to your advantage—the best food and drink are to be found at bakeries, patisseries and restaurants where the waiters wear crisp white shirts, pressed silk vests, polished shoes, have their noses in the air and regard you with a raised eyebrow. 31

REVIEW ǁ France

Street crepes - LYON and PARIS There is nothing better than eating a freshly made crepe with your favourite filling on the steps of an ancient building or in a square watching the world go by. Crepieres are fascinating to watch—the skill in creating such thin pancakes and heaping on the fillings without breaking the fragile base is truly an art form. You may also be treated to a heavily biased perspective on the political, economical, social, cultural and ideological situation in France!

Le Panier à Salade - 1 Place Neuve Saint-Jean LYON The heart of the Old City is filled with bouchon lyonnais such as Le Panier a Salade. Tourists can find classics such as frog legs and escargot at these restaurants; however, there are also other unusual delicacies on the menus and for the faint-hearted it is probably best not to question too closely the contents of an andouiette sausage.

Café des 2 Moulins - 15 Rue Lepic PARIS A typical Parisian café made famous by the international hit movie ‘Amelie’ or in French ‘Le Fabuleux Destin de Amelie Poulin.’ Located around the corner from the Moulin Rouge in the fashionable Montmartre district Café des 2 Moulins offers light meals and drinks at reasonable prices.

REVIEW ǁ France

Ladurée - 75 Avenue des Champs Elysées PARIS Ladurée is the epitome of French patisseries with elaborate tea rooms and private rooms for hire and delectable sweets and pastries that are beautiful to behold and inimitable flavours that go down a treat. Beware the stereotypically haughty Parisian staff who guard the treats jealously and reprimand customers who extend their hands beyond the glass windows, or try and take photos of the interior!

Le Potager - 16 rue des Trois Frères PARIS Le Potager and Le Jardin d’en Face in the Montmartre district exude a quirky bohemian atmosphere reflected in the food and familiar customer service. The food is a distinctive homage to traditional French cuisine but with unusual modern accompaniments and options. The laidback friendly staff make it a memorable dining experience.

Le Bistrot 30 - 30 Rue Saint-Séverin PARIS For those seeking a traditional French meal at a resonable price, the Ltin Quarter is filled with many bistros and restaurants that offer two or three course deals at a set price. These menus offere typical French dishes such as escargot, duck a l’orange, steak, foie gras, creme brulée, profiteroles and mousse au chocolat. Reasonable prices, good food, and good service; what more could you ask for?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;England is the paradise of women the

purgatory of men, and the hell of horses.â&#x20AC;? John Florio

FEATURE ǁ England

Merry England Despite the grey clouds that perpetually hang over the country, Britain is a vibrant mix of old and new waiting to be discovered all over the country.

he United Kingdom is a melting pot of olde and new— traditions and refinement mixed with trends and pop culture. London is a chaotic metropolis with visitors and locals fighting for space, but this is not a new phenomenon. London has long been a hub for travellers from around the world as the grey, exhausted city attracts and caters for all sorts. To list the attractions would be pointless because this is a city that is constantly changing and reinventing itself. But one thing remains constant—there is always something to do in London. There are tours that cover every aspect of London and England’s history, there are museums dedicated to every period and genre of art, visitors are spoilt for choice with public events and concerts in every available arena and park. Just make sure that you are wellequipped for the temperamental weather. For the fashionistas and shopaholics, Oxford and Regent Streets are synonymous with TopShop, Selfridges, H&M, Zara, Mango and so much more. For those looking for a unique shopping and cultural experience, Carnaby Street tucked behind the majestic Tudor building that houses the House of Liberty has all the quirk and exclusive boutiques that were popular with supermodels like Twiggy in the 60s and the hipsters of today. Camden Town has everything for the punks, goths, and eccentric from piercings and tattoos, to vintage, exotic and collector wares. The original lock and stables are still intact with vendors piling their wares in nooks and crannies so that every discovery is a surprise. For the Antiques enthusiast, the long, curving Portobello Road is filled with stalls and shops bursting with rusty jewellery, knickknacks, vintage clothes and memorabilia and much more. Every

piece has a story and the vendors are only too eager to provide the history and value of the items. With all markets and outdoor retail areas it is best to pay in cash. After an exhausting day of shopping and sight seeing, it is a pleasure to put up your feet (figuratively) and let London entertain you—the West End comes alive at night with the lights, colours, costumes, and songs. Nearly every theatre is packed to capacity and the audiences leave enthralled and delighted by what they saw. The pubs are filled with punters having a laugh over a pint of lager and the streets are still filled with people taking advantage of the cool summer nights, because it’s as warm as it will ever be.

ut in the countryside, travellers can appreciate the history and archaic traditions in this country. This is also where one can find some of the most spectacular views, sunsets, and flora and fauna. In Oxford and Cambridge, students take their studies seriously, robes are worn to dinner in sumptuous halls; students and professors rarely interact outside the classroom. Unfortunately, they have little time to appreciate their surroundings—the lush green lawns, the secluded woods with the babbling brooks and Nature’s own jungle gyms are calming and reassuring.

odern University and student towns like Worcester in the heart of England are livelier with clubs, modern cafes and bars, and High Street shops catering to younger tastes as well as to the loyal customers who have been there for generations.

ottingham is another modern town, but its history remains intact with the Old Town sectioned off from the bustling city centre. The castle rises majestically surrounded by little taverns and pubs tucked into the rocky mounds and along the 38

FEATURE ǁ England

cobbled winding roads. Although only a ten-minute walk from the city centre, there is a peaceful aura in the Old Town with soft murmurings from tourists and songs of the birds. The pubs here serve lager and ale exclusive to the region as well as traditional pub food for those looking for a typical English culinary experience. In true commercial style many of the pubs claim to be England’s oldest pub, with many pub names containing the word ‘trip’—the word ‘trip’ during the Middle Ages meant ‘resting place’ and rooms were often occupied by weary knights travelling back home from far and wide.

ath is one of the most ancient and beautiful cities in England with the Roman Baths and neo-classical architecture astonishing travellers. Spend a day visiting the Baths and learning about the fusion of Roman and Celtic religion and in the evening take time out at one of the spas that cater to all budgets. Day trips to Stonehenge are popular with crop circles, and enigmatic shapes and figures along the way to pique interest in the supernatural phenomena in the area.

loser to the Lake District lies Liverpool, where Beatlemania started in the 1960s. The Beatles epitomise the quirk and wit that England is famous for; a visit to the Beatles museum is a must-see for fans. It details each members’ history and the role their played in the band’s rise to fame. Unfortunately The Cavern pub is not as sacred and very few locals visit the pub, leaving the owners to capitalise on unsuspecting tourists. However, Liverpool has other cultural attractions and icons including the Liverpool Football Club and its friendly Scouse inhabitants who are in their own right icons of this city.

‘London has long been a hub for travellers from around the world as the grey, exhausted city attracts and caters for all sorts. ‘

Travel Tip: There are often engineering works on the British Rail network and London Tube, especially on the weekends. It is best to check the timings of evening trains and blocked lines beforehand to avoid being stranded or late. England has a rich history and continues to mix their centuries-old traditions with modern trends and culture in an extraordinary way. There is a great deal to explore and discover all over the country with many a friendly Englishman only too happy to recount the stories of his ancestors and country.

REVIEW ǁ England

King’s Head Bar + Grill - 67 Sidbury WORCESTER A beautiful pub with class and delicious food. The menu is modern with a variety of cuisines to cater for all tastes, but the ingredients are sourced locally and everything is cooked to perfection. Excellent service, friendly atmosphere and beautiful interiors.

The Clachan - 34 Kingly Street LONDON Sadly, many of the pubs in London are now micro-managed by large corporations resulting in uniform menus across the board. However, The Clachan maintains its heritage, traditional menu, and friendly service. They offer a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as modern twists on traditional food. Warm, comforting and homley.

Ye Olde Jerusalem Trip - 1 Brewhouse Yard NOTTINGHAM One of the ‘oldest’ pubs in England that serves traditional ale and lager as well as delicious food. It is easy to picture this pub filled with travellers and knights from the Middle Ages. The cavernous interior twists and turns giving this pub a truly olde worlde charm that is unlike any other pub.

REVIEW ǁ England

Jamie’s Italian - 24-26 George Street OXFORD Jamie Oliver’s chain of Italian restaurants is a tribute to the Italian flavours and culture that he introduced to Britain. This particular restaurant in Oxford buzzes with activity and happy diners who are able to appreciate the flavours, and the salted and cured meats that decorate the ceiling. In true Italian style Jamie’s is a welcoming, friendly, authentic dining experience.

The Duke of Cambridge - Tilford Road FARNHAM If pub food were a cuisine then this pub would be the hub of noveau pub food. The ingredients are locally sourced, freshly picked, and given gourmet twists resulting in baked camembert with tomato chutney and croutons, venison burger and chocolate-giner cake to name a few.